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IF ONE IS SPOILT FOR CHOICE IN THE ACCOMMODATION STAKES, THAT IS NOTHING COMPARED TO THE ARRAY OF RESTAURANTS IN THE REGION IN WHICH ONE CAN REVEL. EVERYTHING FROM CHEAP AND CHEERFUL, FROM BISTROS AND BARS, TO SOME OF FRANCE’S MOST FAMOUS AND MAGICAL FINE DINING. TAKE YOUR PICK FROM NEW WAVE THRILLS TO MICHELIN STARS. THE DISADVANTAGES OF BEING THE CROSSROADS OF EUROPE, PATHWAY TO EVERY WARRING TRIBE AND ARMY FOR CENTURIES, IS NOW A GREAT BONUS AS FRESH AND EXCITING PRODUCE FROM LAND AND SEA ARRIVE HERE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITION.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

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IT IS ALWAYS WORTH BOOKING WELL IN ADVANCE IF YOU HAVE A PLAN, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE IN PEAK SEASON. THAT SAID, you’d be surprised how often you’ll be able to get a table at some of Europe’s finest on almost no notice, as cancellations happen – but do not rely on it. If the budget is a concern, but you also want to enjoy the best the region can offer, consider booking the very finest for a lunch, rather than dinner. And don’t neglect the set menu. It will showcase the best of the skills of the chef and is often excellent value. Remember also that, as with any guidebook on just about any subject, things change, sometimes very quickly. Keep an ear out for ‘local knowledge’ and don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations. It is very much worth checking in advance, if possible, as restaurant opening/ closing times and indeed days/weeks and even months, can vary.

LE PARC LES CRAYERES

Address: 64, bd Henry Vasnier, 51100 Reims Tel: +33 3 26 24 90 00 Website: www.lescrayeres.com.

Once home to the famous Gerard Boyer, this glorious establishment went through some tough times and saw its three Michelin stars evaporate. Recently, it is back in sparkling form and, provided the wallet is on board, an absolute must for the pinnacle of fine dining in the region. A stunning wine list and amazing Champagnes, but it also does go beyond the regional borders. If something a little more casual is the order of the day, their bistro, Le Jardin Les Crayeres (7 av du General Giraud, 51100 Reims, +33 326249090), is an ideal alternative. It shares the grounds so you can always drop by Les Crayeres itself for a drink before relaxing at the bistro.

ROYAL CHAMPAGNE

Address: Hameau de Bellevue, 51160 Epernay. Tel: + 33 3 26 52 87 11 Website: www.royalchampagne.com/fr

When the renovations are finished, planned for the Spring of 2017, this place will undoubtedly return to its former glory as one of the region’s finest.

RESTAURANT LES AVISÉS

Address: 59, rue de Cramant - 51190 Avize. Tel: + 33 326 577 006 Website: www.selosse-lesavises.com

There are few places in Champagne hotter than this at the moment. Part of the Selosse empire, it is attracting rave reviews. Personally, sadly I cannot comment as the day I was due there, the Paris Porsche Club booked out the entire place. The claim is that dishes change every day and that they have never repeated one. LA GRILLADE GOURMANDE

Address: 16 Rue de Reims, 51200 Epernay. Tel: +33 3 26 55 44 22 Website: www.lagrilladegourmande.com

The chef here has worked in some of the world’s most legendary restaurants and he has established a deservedly popular favourite in Epernay.

L’ASSIETTE CHAMPENOISE

Address: 40, avenue Paul VaillantCouturier, 51430 Tinqueux, Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 84 64 64 Website: www.assiettechampenoise.com

The region’s three star restaurant; which says it all. A great list supports dining which is in no way stuffy or limited by tradition.

LE GRAND CERF

Address: 50 Route Nacionale 51, 51500 Montchenot. Tel: +33 326 976 007. Website: www.le-grand-cerf.fr

Hovering at the edge of the famous Montagne de Reims, this iconic establishment provides rich, traditional dining.

LE FOCH

Address: 37 Boulevard Foch 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 47 48 22 Website: www.lefoch.com

Traditional French dining at pleasingly nontraditional prices. Highly regarded with an excellent list of Champagnes. LE PRÉ CARRÉ

Address: 1, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 51100, Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 24 27 15 Website: www.leprechampenois.fr

A contemporary restaurant in central Reims, with a devoted following.

BISTRO LE 7

Address: 13, rue des Cots, 51200, Epernay. Tel: + 33 3 26 55 28 84 Website: www.lesberceaux.com/bistrot-le7-epernay

Simple and seasonal, in Hotel Les Berceaux, this is a big step up from the old days.

LE WINE BAR

Address: 16 Place du Forum, 51100, Reims. Tel: + 33 3 26 05 89 94 Website: www.winebar-reims.com

Friends familiar with this exciting new bar have raved about it as a delightfully friendly place with a great list. They can’t wait to get back.

BRASSERIE LE BANQUE

Address: 40 rue du General Leclerc, 51200, Epernay. Tel: + 33 3 26 59 50 50 Website: www.brasserie-labanque.fr

Terrific value here, with a brilliant list of Champagnes.

LE MILLENAIRE RESTAURANT

Address: 4-6 rue Bertin, 51100, Reims. Tel: + 33 3 26 08 26 82 Website: www.lemillenaire.com

Modern and exciting; a must.

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