Visiting and Touring Houses

ONE OF THE GREAT JOYS OF TOURING CHAMPAGNE IS TO VISIT SOME OF THE HOUSES, BUT IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THIS IS A VERY DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE TO THOSE YOU MAY HAVE HAD WHEN VISITING WINERIES IN AUSTRALIA.

TO START WITH, A GREAT MANY OF the Houses, and especially growers, are not open to the public. However, many are delighted to welcome those with a genuine interest. So, if you wish to visit a House, give them a call or drop them a note, expressing interest (it never hurts to slip in that you are Australian – with the greatest respect to the ‘Mother Country’, there has long been “tension” between Britain and France, while my experience is that most French genuinely like Aussies). You will find, if you do arrive without any warning, that most Houses will politely explain that they are closed.

Of course, there are plenty of Houses that are open to the public, though they usually have strictly limited timings, especially when it comes to tours. Some charge for the privilege, which seems fair, given that they usually need to employ people to welcome guests. You will need to be punctual and appropriately dressed. That doesn’t necessarily mean a coat and tie, but smart casual is appreciated – the more they like you and the more effort you’ve made, the more enjoyable the tour is likely to be. If you rock up in shorts and thongs, the Champenois will be their usual wonderfully hospitable selves, on the surface at least, but they will not be impressed. Many ‘guides’ suggest you speak French during these visits. That is well and good if you are fluent, but many of us are not. Most Houses will be able to converse in perfect English. You may have more trouble with some of the smaller growers (though I once spent five hours with a grower who had very limited English, and yet, despite my non-existent French, the two of us managed to make do more than acceptably and I had a wonderful visit, one of my most treasured). I have always found that a simple apology upfront – being utterly hopeless with the French language and more than likely to cause offence if I tried to speak French, it is safer – and an explanation that, as much as you regret it, you do not speak their language, will get you through.

If you are planning on visiting several Houses, always recommended, try not to cramp them together. Better to spend a few days in the region and plan on two, possibly three visits, maximum, per day. Nothing starts early in Champagne and then, with time thrown in for a good lunch – a must – more than two a day tends to be a rush. If you are focused, three is doable. The Champenois definitely appreciate punctuality, though they seem to like to play games with visitors. Often, if they know you have another visit, they keep you tasting well past the time needed to get between Houses, but if you then request it, they will usually put in a call to the next port of call to let them know you are on your way. Don’t be surprised if the hospitality at your final visit extends into the early evening (I don’t mean you’ll get an invitation to dinner at the family table but often, growers and Houses, especially the smaller ones, will continue with the tasting until it is finished). Remember also that most Houses are closed on public holidays and weekends – sometimes also during French school holidays and sometimes for extended periods. You might find a few of the bigger establishments open on a Saturday, but check first.

Here are some recommendations, there are plenty more, but please remember to check with the House first, if at all possible – a perfect example is that locals have told me that Moët et Chandon will be undergoing extensive renovations at some stage very soon and may have to close to visits. Also, several Houses will offer a range of different tours and tasting experiences, for differing costs, of course. CHAMPAGNE MERCIER

One of Champagne’s largest Houses and one of the most popular visits. Address: 70, Avenue de Champagne, 51200 Epernay. Tel: +33 3 26 51 22 22 Email: visitescaves@mercier.tm.fr Website: www.champagnemercier.fr Open every day (except Tuesday and Wednesday from mid-November to midMarch). 9h30-11h30 / 14h-16h30. Closed from mid-December to mid-February.

CHAMPAGNE MUMM

A House that has returned to the greatness of years gone by. Address: 29, Rue Champ de Mars, 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 49 59 69 Email: guides@mumm.com Website: www.mumm.com Tours by reservation every day. 9h-11h / 14h-17h. Except December 25 and January 1 and Sundays from November to February. From November to February open from Monday to Saturday, 9h-11h / 14h-17h.

CHAMPAGNE POMMERY

A favourite House and an amazing one to visit. A sprawling architectural extravaganza in the middle of Reims. Don’t miss the extraordinary chalk carvings and caves. Address: 5 Place General Gouraud, BP 1049, 51689 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 61 62 55 Email: domaine@vrankenpommery.fr Website: www.pommery.com Visit and tasting by appointment. From April to mid-November daily, 9h30-19h. From mid-November to March every day, 10h-18h. Closed from 25 December to 1 January.

CHAMPAGNE RUINART

Champagne’s oldest House and one boasting some amazing chalk cellars. Address: 4, Rue des Crayères, 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 77 51 51 Email: info@ruinart.com Website: www.ruinart.com Tours by reservation from Tuesday to Saturday.

CHAMPAGNE TAITTINGER

A famous House, great Champagnes, wonderful hospitality. One not to miss. Address: 9, Place Saint Nicaise, 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 85 84 33 Email: info@taittinger.com Website: www.taittinger.fr Tour and tasting every day from mid-March to mid-November. From mid-November to mid-March: Monday to Friday. 9h30-11h50 / 14h-16h50.

CHAMPAGNE COMTESSE LAFOND

A relative newcomer, but occupying a prized place on the world’s most drinkable street. Address: 79, Avenue de Champagne. 51200 Epernay. Tel: +33 3 26 56 99 56 Email: commercial@comtesselafond.com Website: www.deladoucette.fr Visit Monday through Sunday by reservation. 10h-12h / 14h-17h30.

CHAMPAGNE VEUVE CLICQUOT

One of the most famous and highly regarded producers in the region. Also offer great crayeres and have multilingual guides. Address: 1 Place of Human Rights, 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 89 53 90 Email: visitscenter@veuve-clicquot.fr

Website: www.veuve-clicquot.com Tours by reservation only. Closed from 19 December to 15 February.

MOËT ET CHANDON

You can’t miss the world’s biggest Champagne House. They prove that big can be beautiful. Address: 20, Avenue de Champagne, 51200 Epernay. Tel: +33 3 26 51 20 20 Email: visite@moet.tm.fr Website: www.moet.com Tour reservation. 9h30-11h30 / 14h-16h30 p.m. From April to mid-November every day. From mid-November to March every day, except weekends and public holidays.

CHAMPAGNE KRUG

A small but legendary producer. Worth trying but they receive many, many more requests for visits than they can manage. But who knows? You might get lucky! Address: Rue Coquebert, 51100 Reims. Tel: +33 3 26 84 44 20 Email: msoulas@krug.fr Website: www.krug.com Strictly by appointment only: Mondays to Fridays, 09h–17h and often not during French school holidays. Closed mid-July to early September. There is a contact form on the website, or try emailing directly.

CHAMPAGNE PIERRE GIMONNET & FILS

Not your traditional visit but don’t let that put you off. Definitely worth the effort. Some wonderful Champagnes to be discovered. Address: 1 Rue de la République, 51530 Cuis. Tel: 03 26 59 78 70 Email: info@champagne-gimonnet.com Website: www.champagne-gimonnet.com Open Monday to Friday 8h30-12h30; 14h-18h. On Saturday morning visits by appointment.

ONE MORE “MUST” VISIT!

Anyone who enjoys Champagne should make the pilgrimage to Hautvillers, not far from Epernay. Aside from being a wonderfully picturesque village offering superb views (and the opportunity for some wonderful photographs), this is the home of the famous monk, Dom Perignon, and the Abbey of Hautvillers. The village also has numerous wrought-iron signs on the homes, which is a nice, albeit curious diversion.

The Abbey was founded in the mid-7th century, though it has had its troubles over the years and has been rebuilt on several occasions, once thanks to funding by the Medici family. In 1668, its most famous inhabitant, the then 29-year-old Benedictine monk, Pierre Perignon, took over management and remained in control until his death in 1715. Champagne would never be the same. The French Revolution ensured its dissolution but in 1823, Pierre-Gabriel Chandon de Brailles, the son-in-law of Jean-Remy Moët, took up the task of restoration of the Abbey. The Abbey managed to dodge damage in the First World War but was not so lucky in the Second. In 1941, it was sold to Moët et Chandon, who remain the owners today, through LVMH (their owners).

The Abbey itself is only open on prior appointment, not easy as Moët use the place for private visits on a seemingly daily basis. However, fear not. You are able to visit the neighbouring church, built in 1698 – and it is very much worth doing so – which was the final resting place for the Monk himself. ❧