Cellars and Caves

THE ELEVATION OF CHAMPAGNE TO UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE STATUS MAY HAVE ULTIMATELY ARRIVED ON A SEA OF SCINTILLATING SPARKLING WINE, BUT THERE IS MORE THAN A LITTLE TRUTH TO THE SUGGESTION THAT THE FOUNDATION WAS BUILT ON CHALK – AND NOT JUST THE EXTENSIVE CHALK THROUGHOUT THE VINEYARDS. MANY CENTURIES AGO, DURING THE GALLOROMAN PERIOD, LOCALS OBTAINED THEIR BUILDING MATERIALS, THE FABULOUS CHALK, FROM PITS THEY DUG IN THE REGION. THE CHALK WAS ALSO USED AS A FERTILIZER.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

MANY OF THESE PITS, KNOWN AS crayeres, remain today, and they form the basis for the caves and cellars of some of the most famous Champagne Houses of all. Tunnels were constructed between the crayeres and these tunnels are now home to millions of maturing bottles of Champagne. As far back as 1820, Madame Ruinart connected 24 crayeres with eight kilometres of tunnels over three levels.

Tourists to the region will surely drop by an array of producers to learn and taste. They should make absolutely certain that they visit the cellars of some of these Houses. They are truly breathtaking. Even more impressive is that in a number of them, artists have carved extraordinary works of art into the chalk walls. They are simply not to be missed. Some of the most famous are found in the cellars of Champagne Pommery. In the late 19th century, Madame Pommery commissioned the Nair brothers to create various bas-relief sculptures, including views of children in vineyards.

Aside from a brilliant tourist attraction, the chalk is essential for other reasons. Their excavation for the endless cellars has been mentioned. The chalk also helps maintain the temperature at 10°C, or thereabouts. In Reims, estimates suggest that there are at least 2,000 of these pits and that from them, the Romans extracted approximately 300,000 cubic metres, most of which was used when constructing the rampart walls in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Among the Houses with crayeres that are so extraordinarily impressive are Pommery, Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, Canard-Duchene, Taittinger and Mumm.

These caves had another role to play during the Wars which ravaged the region. In the First World War, the early days of the German offensive of 1914 largely obliterated Reims. It is said that 600 people were killed and more than 4,000 homes destroyed. Life continued, but it did so in the cellars – if that sounds fanciful, then a single visit will reveal just how extensive these cellars are and any doubters will quickly believe that shops, schools, businesses and, of course, the Champagne Houses themselves, continued to function in the dark, neverending tunnels.

In the Second World War, it is said that the tunnels became a favourite place for the Resistance to hide Allied soldiers, airmen and escaped POWs on their way back to England. It is not hard to imagine it. There are tales that German soldiers were very reluctant, almost to the extent of having to be forced by their superior officers at the point of a rifle, to go down into the cellars and search for them.

One lovely story, hopefully true, concerns Madame Bollinger. On the surface, many of the Champenoise maintained cordial relations with the Germans, at least to the extent they needed to, in order for their businesses to continue to operate. And naturally, the German officers were keen to visit and dine at the Houses as often as they could. Bollinger was a particular favourite. It is said, however, that the cellars at Bollinger often hid Allied soldiers

and one evening, while Madame Bollinger was hosting the local German officers, a messenger from Berlin arrived and interrupted. Word had come down that the cellars at Bollinger were to be searched immediately. The Commander apologised and said that he had no choice but to send men into the tunnels immediately. Madame Bollinger knew that this might cause a little trouble as there were several airmen hidden within at the time. At the very least, she knew it would certainly mean execution for herself.

Putting on a brave face, she looked the Commander in the eye and, in her most outraged tone, declared this to be an insult of immeasurable proportion. Here she was, entertaining the Commander in her own home and he had the temerity to suggest she was hiding Allied soldiers. If he felt that way, he could leave immediately. The embarrassed Commander turned on the messenger and asked how he had dared bring such a message to this House. Here was Madame Bollinger acting as a gracious hostess to the officers and this messenger had seen fit to embarrass them all. Mention was made of the Western Front.

The Commander then apologised profusely to Madame Bollinger and the dinner continued. No search was made.

Visit the cellars; you might not find airmen but there are miles of treasures. ❧