Flavours of Whisky

Buffalo Trace Distillery, Kentucky

Flavours

of Whisky

Learn to love whisky by exploring the ingredients and places that shape this fascinating spirit and discover how to train your senses to appreciate its complex flavours.

WORDS HANNAH SPARKS AND CHRIS MIDDLETON

THE ART OF APPRECIATING WHISKY

If you’re new to the world of whisky, it can be somewhat daunting.

It’s easy to be put off without the help of someone who can show you the different ways whisky can be enjoyed or explain the factors that make this spirit unique.

My first experience of whisky was at a tasting with around 30 industry professionals who knew a lot more about the spirit than I did at the time. Too afraid to ask how to drink the amber liquid in my glass, I knocked it back in one and spent the next thirty seconds stifling a cough from the unpleasant burning sensation in my throat.

Thankfully, the second whisky came with a few words of advice from my neighbour: “Try adding a few drops of water and sip, slowly.”

The intense alcohol is often what turns people away, but when you understand the important role it plays in flavour and how to dilute the spirit or engage all of your senses so that it becomes less overpowering, whisky gets a lot more exciting.

It’s like the first time you tried coffee or even beer or wine, and you wondered how other people enjoyed what they were drinking. Whisky is much the same; with time you will learn how to appreciate its complex flavours and maybe even come to love the liquid.

A GUIDE TO STYLES

Most whiskies have a 40% ABV (alcohol by volume) or above, which is eight times more than in beer or pre-mixed cocktails of the same amount. But a high strength in alcohol is important; it’s what accentuates the flavours in whisky and anything below that figure can be catastrophic to the way it tastes.

America, Scotland, Ireland, Canada and Japan represent 95 per cent of the world’s whisky (Australia falls among the other five per cent) and each has its own set of styles, just as a brand has its range of whiskies, known as expressions.

America and Ireland also differ in their spelling of whisky, adding an ‘e’ (whiskey), but every distillery regardless of its location uses the same six flavour components - water, grain, yeast, copper, wood and time.

While it may have the least flavour, water and its source can make all the difference to the final aroma and taste. In Scotland, some distilleries believe water from the resident peat bogs and heather-covered hills gives their whisky vegetal and floral notes, while America’s bourbon whiskey industry favours hard water for its rich minerals.

Grain is the most influential ingredient in shaping the flavour foundation of a whisky and varies between country and distillery. For example, Scotland’s malt whiskies are made from 100 per cent malted barley, while corn is the backbone of America’s bourbon industry, flavoured with rye. Malted barley is known for

its sweeter, creamier notes, while unmalted adds a subtle spiciness to the spirit. Corn has a sweetness/creaminess, soft and oil characters and rye is more spicy, fruity and floral. Producers may also choose wheat, oats, and even rice.

Yeast is responsible for turning the sugar in the grain into alcohol and in the process imparts esters - the fruity and floral flavours in whisky often labeled as orchard (pears, apples), stone (apricot, peach), citrus (orange, lemon), berries (strawberry, red berry) and tropical (banana, mango).

Copper is the material of the still, the equipment that cooks the ingredients or wash as it is called at this stage. The vapour from the heat inside the still interacts with the copper and depending on the height, shape and distillation speed, will determine if the whisky is light or heavy in flavour.

The most exciting contributor to flavour however, comes at the end. Originally used to transport whisky, today the purpose of wooden barrels is to mature the whisky. Around 60-80 per cent of the final product’s flavour and colour comes from this stage.

Oak is the most common type of wood used across the world, but even this can vary in type, age and former use. The most popular are white and red oak. American law dictates that bourbon whiskey must be aged only in American new white oak, which means these producers can use the barrel just once. Other whisky makers can reuse a barrel as many times as they like and will often buy American exbourbon barrels for a cheaper price as well as for the flavour residues in the wood. Some will also use barrels that were first used to mature fortified wines such as sherry.

The wood influences the whisky both through direct contact and its pores, which allow the spirit to be exposed to the external environment. American ex-bourbon barrels have a light and floral character with a vanilla note and sweet taste, while sherry casks are known for their dried fruit, raisin and sweet flavours as a byproduct of the wine.

Last but not least is time, a legal requirement and key to maturation. The longer the whisky is left in the barrel, the more flavours that are extracted from the wood. In America and Australia the hot summer climate accelerates the maturation process, and so these countries only have to age their whisky for two years. The colder climates of Scotland, Ireland, Japan and Canada, however, dictate a minimum of three years.

STYLES

SCOTCH

Scotland’s two most popular styles are single malt and blended. Single malt whisky is made from 100 per cent malted barley, while blended is a mixture of both malted barley and grain whiskies (e.g. corn or wheat). Scotch is often characterised by a peated (smoky) aroma or flavour, which refers to the traditional use of peat from local bogs to heat the still.

IRISH

Irish distillers traditionally blend unmalted barley with malted barley. They then distill the spirit three times for a smoother texture and blend for a second time with grain whiskey. It is the combination of these two processes that have provided Ireland with a signature spirit that is lighter, oilier, fruitier and easy to drink.

BOURBON

Bourbon is a particular style of whiskey made in America and to strict guidelines. Among other rules, bourbon must include at least 51 per cent corn and be aged in new, charred oak barrels. It is the charred oak barrels that give bourbon a distinctive sweet character with flavours of vanilla and caramel.

CANADIAN

Most Canadian whiskies fulfil demand locally and in America, which sadly means not as many make their way to Australia. Canadian distillers prefer to distill and age each grain separately, and then blend to brand specifications. Relaxed whisky laws in the country mean its distillers can be more flexible in production. Their whisky is characteristically light, smooth and fruity.

JAPANESE

Japan’s whisky industry is relatively young, starting in the early 20th century. The country was inspired by Scotland’s historic distilleries and many similarities can be found between the two. Japanese whisky tends to be lighter in flavour however, to suit their local cuisine of delicate seafood, vegetable and rice dishes.

Tasting a whisky at home or in a bar is the next step to deepening your understanding and appreciation of the spirit. Discover more from your whisky, whether it’s neat, on the rocks or with a splash of water. WHISKY TASTING

Preparation

Small tulip shaped glass Pen and paper Whisky (10 15ml per tasting Bottled or spring water

SIGHT

Hold the whisky in your glass to the light and note if it’s clear or a little cloudy. Generally, a younger whisky will sparkle while an older whisky will have a rich colour from years spent in wood.

If it has a reddish hue, the whisky is likely to have been matured in European red oak previously used to mature sherry or port. A light golden hue suggests an exbourbon barrel.

Next, swirl the whisky around the glass, coating the interior thoroughly. See how the whisky runs down the side of the glass in tiny streams called legs. If they run down quickly and in many streams the whisky is light bodied, probably a young whisky. A medium or heavy bodied whisky will form larger, slower legs.

SMELL

If this is your first time tasting, we recommend adding a large piece of ice or three drops of water to your whisky to help soften and open up the aroma.

First, swirl the whisky around in the glass a few times to help further release the aromas and then gently sniff the whisky with your mouth open to engage more of your senses.

Write down what you smell. If its vanilla and caramel it will likely be bourbon; smoky and it may be peated; raisins and fruit cake and ex-sherry barrels may have been used.

Check the label of your whisky and see if the aromas you find correspond with the tasting note from the distillery.

TASTE

Now to taste the whisky. Start by sipping a small amount onto the middle of your tongue, then roll it back and hold it in your mouth for about 20 seconds. The whisky is at its peak of intensity at this moment and will to open up after the initial top notes and ethanol burn.

Again, check to see the distiller’s notes on the label for some guidance.

See if you can detect the types of grains and woods that have been used. Also think about how the whisky feels in your mouth – is it warming, creamy, oily, smooth, spirity, mouth-coating, mouth-drying, cloying even metallic. Ryes and whisky in European oak tend to be dry, while sherry wood whiskies can feel cloying.

Repeat this process to try the whisky again or a different whisky. Drink bottled or spring water each time to clean your palate.

Turn to page 50 for our favourite whisky cocktail recipes.

Pairing Whisky & Food Just like your other favourite drinks, whisky can also be enjoyed with food. Rich, fatty foods such a cheese and chocolate make the best matches as they coat your mouth and cut through the whisky flavour. Delve into these suggested pairings.

LAGAVULIN 16 YEAR OLD SCOTCH WHISKY

Country of Origin: Scotland Type: Single malt ABV: 43% About: Lagavulin was one of the first legal distilleries on the island of Islay, built by local farmer John Johnston in 1816. The 16 Year Old is the distillery’s best-known whisky. Tasting note: Deep amber in colour. Intense, peat smoke nose with hints of iodine and seaweed. Peat smoke fills the palate with a gentle but strong sweetness, followed by sea salt and subtle wood. Long, elegant finish. Food pairing: Cashel Irish Blue Cheese or a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup for an alternate pairing.

TALISKER 10 YEAR OLD SCOTCH WHISKY

Country of Origin: Scotland Type: Single malt ABV: 45.8% About: Talisker is one of Scotland’s most remote distilleries, located on the shores of the Isle of Skye. This whisky won Best Single Malt Scotch at the 2015 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Tasting note: Bright gold in colour. Powerful peat smoke and a hint of sea water with citrus sweetness on the nose. Flavours of rich dried fruit sweetness, smoke, barley malt and spice. Long, warming finish. Food pairing: Stilton jaffle and fresh seafood.

JOHNNIE WALKER GOLD LABEL RESERVE SCOTCH WHISKY

Country of Origin: Scotland Type: Blended ABV: 40% About: Johnnie Walker is the most famous name in whisky and began almost 200 years ago in 1820. Gold label showcases the blender’s art, featuring whiskies from Speyside, the Highland area and West Coast. Tasting note: Golden amber in colour. Maple syrup, spices and malt on the nose. Creamy smoothness, gentle smokiness, sweet fruits, vanilla and honey on the palate. Smoke and oakiness on the finish. Food pairing: Dark chocolate coated honeycomb.

CRAGGANMORE 12 YEAR OLD SPEYSIDE SCOTCH WHISKY

Country of Origin: Scotland Type: Single malt ABV: 40% About: Cragganmore is located in the Speyside region of Scotland and its 12 Year Old has been said to have “the most complex aroma of any malt,” by whisky writer Michael Jackson. Tasting note: Gold in colour. Sweet, floral nose with hints of riverside herbs and flowers. Strong, distinctly malty flavour with hints of sweet wood smoke and sandalwood. Long, maltdriven finish with light smoke and sweetness. Food pairing: Quality jamon like the nutty and buttery ibérico hams of Spain.

WOODFORD RESERVE KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON

Country of Origin: America Type: Bourbon ABV: 40% About: Woodford Reserve is one of Kentucky’s oldest bourbon makers, founded in 1812. This is its most popular whiskey and has more than 200 detectable flavours. Tasting note: Honey amber in colour. Rich dried fruit, hints of mint, vanilla, tobacco spice, orange and cocoa on the nose. Complex citrus, cinnamon, cocoa, caramel and spice flavours. A smooth and creamy finish. Food pairing: Aged parmesan cheese, dark chocolate and toasted hazelnuts.

HIGHLAND PARK 12 YEAR OLD SCOTCH WHISKY

Country of Origin: Scotland Type: Single malt ABV: 40% About: Highland Park was established in 1798. This was the first expression made by the distillery and is still at the core of its range. Tasting note: Bright amber in colour. Heather-honey sweetness and peaty smokiness on the nose. Rounded smoky sweetness and rich malt flavours. A long, sweet finish with heathery notes and subtle smoke. Food pairing: Salted dark chocolate (at least 70 per cent cacao) or quality beef jerky.