South Australia

South Australia is wine. Accounting for more than 50 per cent of Australia’s total vinous volume from 45 per cent of the nation’s vineyards, it turns over an estimated $440 million per year from 19 regions. As a state, it is home to internationally recognised marquee wines like Penfolds’ Grange and Henschke’s Hill of Grace; to wine drinkers worldwide, it brings them Jacob’s Creek and Yalumba, and at wonderful prices. Besides the icons and the more democratic wines however, it’s got history. Barrels of it.

WORDS BEN CANAIDER AND ASHLEY PINI McLaren Vale

South Australia’s representative state association was founded in 1840 and in the Barossa there are vines - still bearing fruit - planted in 1843. A year later, Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold opened his surgery at Magill, just 5kms or so east of Adelaide, in the morning shadows of the Mount Lofty Ranges. Planting cuttings he’d brought from France, Dr. Penfold was aided by his wife, Mary, and as his practice grew, Mrs. Penfold is credited with running and expanding the vineyards and winery, and successfully so.

A few years later, in 1860, shiraz was being planted by German immigrants next to the Gnadenberg Church in Eden Valley. These old vines - the Grandfather vines - are still with us; they are unirrigated and very low yielding and, nearly a hundred years later, became the vehicle for Henschke’s first Hill of Grace wine, made in 1958. It is a remarkable story - one vineyard with vines nearly a century old distilling the very essence of South Australia’s immigrant and colonial history.

Interestingly enough, the wine that tips Hill of Grace regarding reputation, Grange, was also first being put together in that decade of the 1950s. It, however, was not so much a wine from the past, but one of the future. A wine made from different South Australian regions and using shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, not to mention a much bigger oak barrel regime; it relied on blending to achieve a consistent style.

And it typifies much of this winemaking state - South Australia is an amazing amalgam of the modern wine era - that being the 20th century up until the present. The driest state in the driest country in the world, it was settled by the English (who weren’t convicts), turned into a Silesian paradise by displaced Bohemians and Hapsburgs, and became an Eden for Mosel’s Riesling a```````vnd the Rhone’s shiraz. From the Barossa in the north to Coonawarra and its relatively recent cabernet in the south, and with the altitudinous Adelaide Hills in the middle (complete with pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc), there’s a wine variety and style to suit nearly every demanding palate. Innovation and experimentation in viticulture continue, however, and with enthusiasm only met by South Australian winemakers determined to do whatever they can to preserve - in bottled form - the varieties of the past. An old stalwart like Mataro is making a humble comeback, and Grenache is beginning to receive the winemaking nous and respect that is helping turn it into a new consumer darling. Other more recently introduced and more widely planted red varieties, such as tempranillo and touriga, are finding very easy homes in the Barossa.

Tintara, McLaren Vale

AUSTRALIA’S “FESTIVAL CITY”

Surrounds that offer this much deserve more time than most can afford, but the ability to take four days for a long-long weekend, and to put aside your diet du jour, brings wine lovers delight. And don’t be fooled by the vast wine heritage of the regions surrounding Adelaide – there’s much more to do than just visit wineries, though we did think that was a good place to start.

ADELAIDE

GONDOLA GONDOLA - PEEL STREET

With the five-star cuisine on offer in all the wine regions we went for a more informal Vietnamese experience on Peel Street, the ‘party’ end of town. Great staff and a friendly atmosphere situated in the heart of Adelaide, with plenty of other options close at hand if Vietnamese isn’t your thing.

Tip: With days of wine tasting ahead of you enjoy two of the regions other great offerings while in Adelaide itself: Coopers Pale Ale and Adelaide Hills Cider.

1 Peel St, Adelaide SA 5000 T: (08) 8123 3877 W: www.gondolagondola.com.au

MCLAREN VALE

McLaren Vale is so close to Adelaide, just 40km’s, that a trip to this ‘wine region by the sea’ is easier than relocating from Bondi to Double Bay (sometimes). A quality road with minimal traffic transports you into the birthplace of the South Australian wine industry in around half an hour. Seek out the Visitor Information Centre where you’ll be greeted by volunteer staff keen to help. There are more than 100 cellar doors in McLaren Vale sporting international award winning wines, rolling hills and, from the top, beautiful views all the way down to Victor Habour.

McLaren Vale is celebrated for its maritimeinfluenced shiraz, ultra-premium grenache and an increasing production of Mediterranean varieties; if you enjoy whites, you must try the fiano.

D’ARENBERG

D’Arenberg sits high on the northern side of the valley with a broad range of wines and styles that showcase the region. The staff are passionate and you may even bump into D’Ary mowing the lawn or getting the mail; this is a true family business with both D’Ary and Chester Osborn doing the rounds every day.

Our tip: Do the blending experience – and make your own version of the very best wines from D’Arenberg single vineyard selection into a blend. Cost : $70.

Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171 T: (08) 8329 4888 W: www.darenberg.com.au

TINTARA

Thomas Hardy purchased Tintara Winery in 1876 with plans to improve the already amazing wines coming out of the region. Today, more than 100 years later, it is home to some of the world’s best shiraz. See for yourself as the public are invited to visit 7 days a week. Whilst self-guided tours are available, we recommend you book one with the cellar door staff to get the real Tintara experience.

202 Main Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171 T: (08) 8329 4124 W: www.hardyswines.com

Carriage Café, Onya Bike Hire

ANGOVE

Founded in 1886 and family owned, Angove Winery is dedicated to the production of premium and organic wines. Inside the cellar door is a state-of-the-art tasting facility, with a carefully, hand crafted bench made from recycled Jarrah. The wine list is unforgettable and complemented by regional food and cheese plates. Be sure to visit in the late afternoon as the sun setting over this picturesque landscape is a sight to remember.

117 Chalk Hill Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171 T: (08) 8328 6900 W: www.angove.com.au

SC PANNELL CELLAR DOOR

Husband and wife duo Steve and Fiona established the SC Pannell label in 2004. Known for its ‘Mediterranean’ climate and thin soils, the McLaren Vale made for the perfect place for Steve to produce his award-winning and environmentally friendly wines; namely shiraz and grenache. The cellar door is open seven days a week. The menu, curated by Head Chef Hayley White, is ever evolving and heroes local, seasonal produce. As for the wine, there’s plenty to go around, three of which are for a complimentary tasting.

60 Olivers Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171 T: (08) 8323 8000 W: www.pannell.com.au

CARRIAGE CAFÉ, ONYA BIKE HIRE

More than 100 years old, this lovely carriage has been converted into a warm and cosy café. Family run and owned, the food is wholesome and the milkshakes are said to be the best in town. Visitors are also invited to hire a bike and ride the shiraz trail; 32km of lush greenery and picturesque views.

198 Main Road, McLaren Vale T: 0437 750 064 W: www.thecarriagecafe.com.au

Barossa Valley Peter Lehmann Wines Cellar Door

Mengler’s Hill

Torbreck The Laird Vineyard

BAROSSA VALLEY

Australia’s most famous wine making region that continues to excel year after year, the Barossa Valley produces many of our greatest wines and is home to household winemaking businesses. You could spend all four days here and hardly have scratched the surface.

Firstly, get to know your surrounds. The Barossa region is far bigger than the Barossa Valley itself, incorporating the neighbouring Eden Valley that sits a tad higher on the eastern side; meaning you should see both – the wines are quite different. German and British settlers came to the valley in the 1840s and winemaking started soon afterwards

PETER LEHMANN WINES

Peter Lehmann is a story that is at the very heart of the Barossa and its patchwork of growers across the valley floor, and home to a passionate winemaking team that now continue the heritage the great man built from the ground up. A visit to the Peter Lehmann cellar door is a must when in town; you’ll find it just outside Tanunda. Picturesque gardens and a stunning art-filled tasting room which was the original old stone winery, are complimented by a pretty sharp food offering. Open seven days a week, Peter Lehmann’s cellar door offers tastings of more than 40 wines.

Para Rd, Tanunda SA 5352 T: (08) 8565 9555 W: www.peterlehmannwines.com

MENGLER’S HILL

Mangler’s Hill is a popular lookout that offers sweeping views of the Barossa Valley. Named after an early vine grower, it is home to a Sculpture Park that showcases the works of local and international artists. The short walking trail weaves in and out of the eye-catching sculptures and is stroller and wheelchair friendly. A perfect place to visit with the family; pack a picnic and get a sense for the great outdoors.

Menglers Hill Rd, Bethany SA 5232

TORBRECK WINES

Torbreck Wines is a winery with an immense international reputation for quality wines, producing one of Australia’s most sought after reds is The

Laird. If top end wines are not in the budget there are plenty of other offerings that will captivate at the new cellar door opened just two months ago.

Lot 51, Roennfeldt Rd, Marananga SA 5355 T: (08) 8562 4155 W: www.torbeck.com

YALUMBA

Yalumba is located just outside of Angaston. Samuel Smith founded the winery in 1849, and today it is one of the few left in the world where the staff still make their own wine barrels. As for the wine room, that’s where the tour begins. Visitors can learn about the family history, before moving on to the nursery, where unknown grape varietals from all over the world are being nurtured. Among other exciting experiences, we recommend taking part in the mini masterclass; one hour of tasting and learning about Yalumba’s finest award winning wines.

40 Eden Valley Rd, Angaston SA 5353 T: (08) 8561 3200 W: www.yalumba.com/visit

Also visit: Hentley Farm Wines, Burge Family Winemakers, Henschke, Penfolds, Rockford

CLARE VALLEY

The Clare Valley is a personal favourite of many in the wine industry – ‘a cluster of villages and wineries, nestled in a picturesque valley’. Within striking distance of Adelaide, the trip will take you just over an hour and a half – only 45 minutes on from the Barossa; but a world apart. Yalumba Museum Cellar

Clare Valley

The Clare boasts a blend of South Australian history and 40 plus wineries, great restaurants, art, natural bushland and Australian flora and fauna; the Clare is a treat that has to be explored for yourself. If you’re not afraid of exercise, and the weather permits, get yourself a bike and enjoy the unique ‘Riesling Trail’, a 32km corridor linking quaint towns, restaurants and wineries; or take a step back in time with a trip to Burra, a township famed for its mining heritage. Taylors Wines Cellar Door

TAYLORS WINES

The Taylor family have called the Clare home for more than three decades and the winery, while now on a reasonable large scale, still exudes all the characteristics of a family run business. Taylors Wines has enjoyed plenty of domestic and international acclaim, and with the St Andrews flagship wine leading the way in quality Taylors is an iconic winery that was the first on our list when planning the trip. Staff are very knowledgeable and the tour is well worth the effort.

89A Winery Rd, Auburn SA 5451 T: (08) 8849 1111 W: www.taylorswines.com.au

SHUT THE GATE

Sydney-siders Richard Woods and Rasa Fabian swapped city office space for the rustic Clare Valley, setting up in their cellar door and providore in the heart of Watervale; naming it Shut the Gate Wines. To hear where the name comes from and see for yourself why James Halliday named it one of his top 10 new wineries in 2015, stop in and taste your way through their 12 small batches of regional wines. Shut The Gate

2 Main North Road, Watervale T: 08 8843 0111 W: www.shutthegate.com.au

KILIKANOON

Housed in the original stone farmhouse built in the 1860s, Kilikanoon offers several tasting experiences either in the private tasting rooms, the Revelation Room or Trega’s Terrace overlooking the gardens and their reserve cabernet vineyard. Cellar door is open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm, and for larger groups it’s recommended to call a couple of days in advance.

MUST VISIT

Drop into Linke’s Meats in Nuriootpa and pick up Mettwurst, vacuum packed to take home. Graham Linke cures and smokes traditional Barossa small goods in a wood fired smokehouse behind the store using a family recipe dating back to the 19th century.

27 Murray St, Nuriootpa SA 5355 T: (08) 8562 1143

Penna Lane, Penwortham T: (08) 8843 4206 W: www.kilikanoon.com.au