Issue 1 - Daddy Wont Pay The Publishers

RAD Issue 1 S/S

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Hey, It’s the editor ...

GEORGIA BURGOYNE

EDITOR

Welcome to the first issue of RAD and my first ever issue I have edited (now I kind of know how Anna Wintor feels every Monday morning!)

I would just like to thank everybody that has contributed, from friends that have checked my appalling spelling to the brilliant photographers featured, without you this magazine would not happen.

Dear reader I hope that you enjoy this magazine which was born on one boredom filled day, come on it can only get better from here.

OH and here’s to many more issues!

Here are some personal recommendations this monthBook– The Princes Bride William Goldman You thought the film was good (if you haven’t seen the film shame on you) well you have to read this it’s a modern storytelling classic!

Film– A Hard Days Night The height of Mod Britannia cool, and it has the Beatles, The Beatles!

Music– Rodrigo y Gabriela Mexican guitar duo whose insane playing has not been recognized by the masses.

Seriously how do they play that quick?!

Also their music just makes me happy, perfect for those miserable winter days.

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So what is going on in this Issue of RAD magazine ...

6-7: I like to ride my bicycle, photo by Becky Townsend 8-9: This issues Bad and Rad by Georgia Burgoyne 10-16: Our Independent Woman shoot by Mary Claire Roman. Hell yeah California.

17: Getting the paint out is Isabel Harrison 18-20: Our editor reviews the RSC production of Romeo and Juliet. Did it make beautiful love or was it a tragedy?

20-23: We’re dreaming of another world with Maggie Lochtenberg 24-25: We have so much to tell you about our interview with Zoe Walker & Natalie Smith 26-30: New York is the city that never sleeps as Becky Townsend discovered 31: Georgia Burgoyne discusses why she will always love velvet. Well come on it is ace!

32-33: Josh Wroath on why we listen to depressing music in an ironically funny article 34-39: Yay to Canon AE-1’s! photos by Laura Peta Ellis 40-41: Why is London fashion week important, Ellis investigates 42-51: Soft focus, delicate photos by Ellis (again, gosh she has contributed a lot!)

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Photo by Becky Townsend 7

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RAD TEN PIN BOWLING: Massive in the early 90s due to a load of Mega bowls etc.. suddenly deciding to set up shop in Britain, for some reason its popularity has now waned. Currently only the preserve of ironic fashion types posing at overpriced boutique alleys and underage kind who can actually get served at the lanes' bar at the retail park, bowling is far too much fun to be overlooked anymore. The essential ball sport for the lazy, unfit, or inebriated, ten-pin bowling should be our national sport.

Striiiiiiiike!

TEXIDERMY: I know lots of people, vegan or not, that take great offence when confronted by the art of stuffed animals, but for me they still have a "how did they do that?" childhood mystique.

And how can you not be hyped by seeing a black bear on his hind legs with a salmon in his gob standing to attention by your front door every time you go out to work/school? That was a joke. He'd never have a salmon in his Mouth, it'd be a eagle. Taxidermy is amazing!

WATCHES: You may have a clock on your mobile phone. but there is a certain romanticism and old-worldly charm to twisting your wrist to peak at a dedicated timepiece in order to see how late you are getting home on a school night. Reminding us of a age when stuff was made to do just one thing, i.e tell the time, I'm backing the watch to make a comeback. Come on, lets here it for awkwardly large wall mounted clocks too, and alarm clock for that matter, you know what time it is! Its Hammer time!

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BAD CHAMPAGNE: Why at special occasions, such as birthdays or weddings, does some bright spark decide that every ones glasses should be charged with champagne? I know of no-one, no-one, who would ever, ever, order a glass of the bubbly stuff from any bar given any other choice, at any time, so why wheel it out now?

Guaranteed to ruin any social event you drink it at, and give you an eye watering hangover it isn't our idea of decedent fun whatsoever. Non Merci madame. Ou et le vin

FINE DINING: Everybody enjoys a spot of fine dining once in a while, but there has to be a point at which a line must be drawn. With television schedules and magazines stuffed with celebrity chefs and columnists spouting on about truffle oil, fennel, micro herbs, organic hand-reared chickens, jus of this, reductions of that. My head is spinning and I've had my fill.

Stuffed.

U2: I'll admit even I cant resist a bit of air drumming whenever I hear Sunday bloody Sunday, but that is it. Hanging around music mega stores and arenas well, well, past their career bedtime am i the only one to think that, album after album, We've heard it all before? Maybe Bono et al's post Joshua Tree output is like a turgid dog whistle that only I can hear. And don't start me on Bono, oh no. Take those shite sunglasses off Mother Theresa

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Photographer: Mary Claire Roman Model: Breanna Rathbun Make up and Styling by: Kourtney Jackson

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We interviewed Mary Claire Roman the young photographer from California and the creator of our Independent Woman shoot What is your current state of mind?

Relaxed, enjoying a homemade iced coffee and listening to Regina Spektor.

What is it that inspires you?

I draw inspiration from everything; magazines, movies, teenage experiences, and sunshine.

What When AE-1 ious work

camera(s) do you use?

I shoot film, which is most of the time, I use a Canon [pictured left with Mary Claire] (although I have varother 35mm cameras that I sometimes use). My digital is done with a Nikon D40x.

Yes the AE-1 is the best! Which do you prefer digital or film?

I love that I’m able to manipulate with digital, the way a raw image can be transformed with post-processing, but nothing can compare to the thrill of delayed gratification you get from shooting film. No matter how skilled you are, the results you'll get with film are unpredictable. It's an art form I hope I never have to see die out in my life time.

From your photos it looks like everybody in California is beautiful, so do you get inspiration from your surroundings?

Everybody in California IS beautiful, ha ha. But yes, absolutely. The beach is my go-to. I do so much of my photographing in the golden light of the summer, and the beach always just feels like home to me.

Who is your dream person to photograph?

Oh my goodness, without a doubt: Karlie Kloss. She is my favourite model and I think she has such a unique beauty. I really admire her.

What is your favourite out of all the shots you have taken so far?

It's so hard for me to narrow it down to just one, but the three [left] are my personal favourite photos What was it that initially got you into photography?

This story isn't very interesting. Ha ha. To be completely honest, I was looking for something in the hall closet and I stumbled across my late Aunt's old Nikon 35mm camera. I took an immediate interest in how it worked, so my dad showed me how to load film and taught me basic settings. I took it upon myself to learn the rest.

When not photographing, how else do you spend your time?

I love to sing and play piano. When I'm not at work, at school, or taking photographs, I'm usually incorporating some sort of food/eating into my schedule. I also enjoy a good car ride, night swim, or movie date with my beloved

For more information and photos check out: http://www.flickr.com/ photos/maryclaireroman/

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Sail away with me ...

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Embrace Americana with a vintage T-shirt if stars and stripes aren't your style ‌

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I’m forever blowing bubbles ...

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Living the American dream ...

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Painting by Isabel Harrison

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Tempt not a desperate man…

Romeo & Juliet RSC Stratford-upon-Avon March 2010 Romeo & Juliet is a play whose themes and ideas belong to the youth, and this RSC production reminds us of this important fact.

It is a play about death and sex, and this overworked tragedy is revitalized under Rupert Goold’s direction.

A cathedral tour-guide insists that mobile and cameras are switched off as a single tourist arrives, camera around neck and in modern studenty clothes, he accepts the multi-lingual headset and we proceed to hear the infamous prologue. The tourist is of course Romeo, played by Sam Troughton who lives up to William Hazlitt’s description of Romeo as ‚Hamlet in love‛. This is a strong confident introduction to the play, we the audience recognize that this is going to be a different production and that all is not what it seems.

What follows is three hours of theatre at its

best; laughter, tears whirl of bodies. Benand brilliant pyrotech- volio is tied to a stake by Tybalt, thank nics. goodness for the intervention from the Prince We soon find out that and his fire extinGoold’s idea of Verona guisher wielding officis not a Italian sun ers to stop Romeo’s drenched haven but a cousin from being grubby greasy world. turned into a human The set is simple, yet torch. The public maysatisfyingly dramatic. hem is mirrored in JuFire is a constant mo- liet’s private life, tif throughout, the played brilliantly by fire of passion in love Maria Gale who really and hate. Spouts of does seem like a teenfire burst from under ager when she speaks the stage adding danger the lines ‚I long to to fight scenes, and die!‛ you really do are reflected in the feel like this is a backlit medieval sunthirteen year old on ray around Juliet’s the brink. Both of the balcony at the end of leads are very sure of the first their characters and we act. Portraying Verona do feel the chemistry in this dark gothic way between the star also reflects on the crossed lovers, there story and heightens the are sudden sparks of intensity and drama. humor from the pair The darkness of the when Troughton does an stage makes the theatre exuberance dance when feel more intimate and he finds out about balthat its only you in a conied Juliet’s love. clammy room watching the story pan out. The audience are constantly While the rest of the on edge as the perfor- cast are in typical outlandish Elizabethan mances are thrilling. costume our Juliet sports converses and The opening stage is a Romeo wears a hoodie, 18

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A majority of the comedy comes from the outstanding Mercutio, played by Jonjo O’Neill, with dyed blonde hair and a rugged camp humour who has an almost pornographic imagination, sends most of the audience into constant fits of laughter. This use of controversial humour can separate the audience, the old from the young, very much like the

play itself which blames adults for the destruction of children. O’Neill plays such a good Mercutio that our love for him adds to the horrific drama of his death.

Not everything in Goold’s production succeeds. The final phase of the play is somewhat underpowered as It feels like we are watching a CSI cop show, it does not have the same affect and ruins the atmosphere the rest of the play has created. But for most of its length this production of Romeo and Juliet is gripping and full of passion and reminds the audience that it is about doomed youth

Romeo & Juliet is on at the London roundhouse from November

Picture courtesy of the RSC

this demonstrates that they are on the same level and that their passion will bloom. When we read Romeo and Juliet we are simultaneously both in the past and in the present, caught up in the drama and remembering our own memories of love. Goold’s staging allows the audience to be in both of these worlds. The production offers more than just a twist, with a strong sense of religion and violence it is as exciting as the first time it was staged, also the thrill of young passion is caught beautifully for example the Capulet ball is a ballet of such beauty that no wonder Romeo falls so quickly for Juliet. The guests are masked in golden skulls and they career around the theatre engulfing the whole audience.

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Photos by Maggie Lochtenberg For more info http://www.flickr.com/people/maggielochtenberg/

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Zoe Walker & Natalie Smith are friends and writers who launched So Much To Tell You in 2008, as a way to share inspiration. They met and became friends in 2006 while working for a New Zealand fashion website called Runway Reporter, and since then their work has appeared in publications including Russh, the NZ Herald, Metro, No, Fashion Quarterly, Yen, Pulp and more.

Our Editor talks to the fashionable pair about British style and missing Luella‌ www.somuchtotellyou.co.nz/

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Natalie: Magazines of course!

I have been reading them since I was twelve and I am always transported into a beautiful world when I read them.

Zoe: My mum's Twiggy scrapbook. She was obsessed with her when she was younger, and would paste in every picture and article that she could find. I'm glad that she kept it! That was probably a precursor to my obsession with magazines, which led to an interest in fashion.

What is your biggest sartorial blunder?

Natalie: Not knowing my body type and dressing in a way that doesn't suit me.

Zoe: Dressing too much like a schoolgirl: collars, ugly flat shoes, pleating, virginal dresses...

Who is your favourite designer?

Natalie: At the moment, locally, I really love everything that Lonely Hearts has shown us for their Winter collection, Little Bandits.

Internationally, I love A.P.C. and shoes from Yves Saint Laurent.

Zoe: Karen Walker. I really like to wear and support young New Zealand designers like Twenty-seven Names, Juliette Hogan, Lonely Hearts, Salasai and Ruby. If I could afford it, I'd wear pieces from Celine, Chloe, Stella McCartney, Charles Anastase, Miu Miu, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Christopher Kane. And I really miss Luella!

What is your uniform for this season?

Natalie: I have been wearing a button up shirt a lot chambray, a crisp white one, a floppy olive silk one and I am looking for a black sheer one too. I have been wearing them with different pants skinny black velvet jeans, a pair of tailored men's style pants.

Zoe: My uniform for all seasons: a pretty dress, preferably one with collar detailing, worn with flat shoes.

be Penny Martin - I have been so inspired by reading the new magazine The Gentlewoman under her editorial direction, it is full of wonderful stories and women.

Zoe: Anyone who is strong, smart and self-possessed, with a sense of humour - that includes everyone from my mum to my favourite writer to a friend I've known since I was 12.

What is your greatest extravagance?

What do you think of British style?

Natalie: I think it's great all the things I love - preppy, slightly awkward, functional and heritage elements and a bit of quirk.

Zoe: It's my favourite, probably because it resonates closely with my own - a bit awkward, messy hair, crumpled dress, smart shoes. I love that there are so many inspiring elements to it, like Sloane Rangers, the royals, Mods, Alexa Chung...

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Natalie: A beach house where I have no internet access or cellphone coverage at least 75% of the time, red wine, coffee, candles, my boyfriend and a good book.

Zoe: Walking around a foreign city without a map or anywhere that I need to be.

Natalie: Clothes, cheese, candles.

Zoe: Probably my past overseas trips, but on a weekly basis I spend most of my money on clothes and magazines...

What is your favourite journey?

Natalie: The one from my front door to my bed when it's late at night, I'm dead tired and a little bit tipsy.

That or the trip home to my mother's for Christmas lunch.

Zoe: Anywhere new. I feel the most free when I am walking around a new city.

Which words or phrases do you overuse?

Natalie: Cripes.

Zoe: Suck it up.

Which living person do you most admire?

Natalie: I don't know how to answer this. I admire many people, all for different reasons. To narrow it down a little, I will say the person I most admire in my field.

And at the moment that would

Luella

What was it that first got you interested in fashion?

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK! Becky Townsend takes us on a trip around the big apple...

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A couple of weeks into autumn and I

bronze and purple) and Stella McCartney

should be looking forward to the spring/ (in monochrome), this time round a clevsummer trends. Floral designs were par-

er combination of colours and finishes

ticularly popular this LFW. Clements

brought a refreshing take to the tradi-

Ribeiro’s easy to wear clashing floral tionally gothic material. Velvet smoking prints in multiple shades appeared on

jackets and tailored blazers also added

dresses, skirts teamed with stripped

a new dimension, and ticked another

tops and even platform wedges. Paul

trend of androgyny. This means exceed-

Smith’s collection saw a floral playsuit

ingly well dressed grown-ups not just

and suit jackets with flower printed

children!

lining. While Jaeger presented bold floral print dresses accentuated with a skinny belt. I’m sorry but I’m longing for cold winter nights where I can rediscover my love for Velvet. That material that only ever comes out at Christmas or seen on four year olds. The cute dress with a peter pan collar and white tights and was addressed as ‚Sunday best‛. It’s a comfort material that, as well as keeping you warm, makes you feel happy inside. It’s a fabric full of nostalgia, of forgotten innocence and holds joyous memories.

I personally think that it is one of the only fabrics that, depending on the wearer, can be sexy and innocent at the same time but also slightly badass; take Wednesday Adamms from the Adamms family; her personality is severe, with a deadpan wit and a morbid interest in trying to inflict harm upon her brothers. She is an instant icon who works the gothic chic famously. She has an unusual beauty as well as brains and is a strong female character, which is often missing from big budget Hollywood films. She is also cited as the inspiration for Charles Anastase’s brilliant debut 2007 collec-

I have been in love with a certain black

tion.

velvet "See by Chloe" dress ever since it turned up on Alexa Chung, a dress she loved so much, that in her debut collection for Madewell, she made her own ver-

Come on people embrace the fabric that can be worn a million ways from Bohemian Luxe to Anna’s fifth birthday party!

sion, the Tennessee [Thomas] named after her close friend and drummer in LA band The Like.

Velvet is slowly being reinvented by fashions darlings, it was championed on the catwalk by the likes of Ralph Lauren (in plum), Marc by Marc Jacobs (in black), Christopher Kane (a mix of gold, Alexa Chung for Madewell

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I was happy in the haze of a drunken hour.

But heaven knows I’m miserable now Why do we listen to depressing music? Josh Wroath investigates ...

Let’s be honest here we’ve all felt down and out, rock bottom and dam right low at times. For whatever reason you’ve felt that way it can be hard to get out of that shithole. So how do we deal with these horrible feelings and get out of that hole?

One comfort that most, if not all people turn to is music. But what we turn to in music can sometimes be our own downfall. Instead of putting uplifting music on when we feel low, we end up turning on something that brings up worse feelings and makes us feel worse. Why do we turn on depressing music when we feel dam right awful already?

The number one topic in depressing music is love.

Clearly it is the main topic in which people get the lowest about. We have all had our hearts broken, and arguably nearly all songs (I’d argue at least 80%) in popular music are written about love. The history of popular music has millions of songs about the subject. Of course

popular music has millions of other songs about why we feel low and depressed for us to divulge into also, but love conquers all. So what is it in these millions of songs that makes us want to listen to them when we are feeling low?

Why during a break-up, a divorce, loneliness or the loss of a loved one do we purposely put on depressing music? We all have our own back catalogue on iTunes and mp3 players which we turn to too ‚cheer us up‛ but do they really make us feel better? When was the last time listening to a depressing song made you feel any better? Most the time it just repeats the same messages in your head about the issues in which you already can’t figure out. You’re literally listening to the reason your low over and over again and getting nowhere as of it. This doesn’t get you out of the cycle of feeling low at all, but purely leaves you in a selfloathing pit of depressing.

Yet we still put these songs, albums or artists on every time we are feeling sad.

Surely when you’re feeling low the last thing you want to be reminded about is how depressed you are feeling.

At times like that you’d think that you’d turn on some ‚happy‛ music like The Beatles, Daft Punk, CSS or Bob Marley etc. No instead we put on Radiohead, The Smiths, City & Colour and Nirvana etc. and continue our self-loathing.

There is something about these songs and even artists that make us turn back to them over and over again.

It’s the connection the lyrics or music has to us, be it the melody, lyrics or just tone of the song/album/ artists, once we hear something that relates to us, we instantly category it in our heads to a feeling we have experienced. It becomes almost a safety net for us: by listening to that music we know that someone else has

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been in the same position as us. This can help people get out of their depressed spiral, but in most cases we just end up feeling like crap still, going nowhere but in a complete 360 degree circle.

why we purposely put on depressing music when feeling low. A chemical reaction must be inaction which makes some people feel better and others worse. The formula simply works for some people and not for others. For some people they can snap out of So when should we listen to feeling low, but for most this music? You don’t want people it just makes them to listen to it when you’re continue to feel low. Either down: you’re just end up way, we will continue to getting lower. But then listen to gloomy music as you’re not exactly going to long as we are depressed (as put The Smiths on before you if that’s ever going to head out into town are you? end!).

It’s a strange Catch-22 situation.

Maybe a new method should be tried the next time you feel It’s so hard to understand low. Instead of putting

‘Creep’ on, pump up ‘The Girls’. Instead of getting down with ‘There Is A Light That Never Goes Out’ get up with ‘Stronger’. Just turn something on that is uplifting to you next time. Who knows, you may break the cycle.

Songs that we think will put a smile on your face -

THE KINKS

THE BEATLES

You Really Got Me

Twist and Shout

LIONAL RICHIE

BOB MARLEY

Dancing On The Ceiling

Three Little Birds (Everything's Gunna Be Alright)

THE ROLLING STONES

ARCTIC MONKEYS I Bet You Look Good On The Dancefloor FATBOYSLIM Praise You JAMES BROWN Papa's Got A Brand New Badge KANYE WEST Touch the Sky

(I Can't Get No) Satisfaction STEVIE WONDER Superstition THE STROKES Someday RöKSOPP Happy Up Here VAMPIRE WEEKEND A-Punk

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Photo by Laura Peta Ellis

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Photo by Laura Peta Ellis

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Photo by Laura Peta Ellis

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A quick round up of this years London Fashion week

By Laura Peta Ellis I find it impossible for people not to have been aware of the events in recent weeks.

Not only those serious fashion junkies whose lives are organised around the two bi-annual fashion events that are Fashion Week, but also those who don’t take fashion quite so seriously. Fashion Week has always been about showcasing the latest trends and talent of the designers, and September’s London Fashion Week being no different

decades. Perhaps the gloom of the recession, unjust wars and global warming that are so prominent in the news at the moment are causing designers to regress into the past and search for happier times. The fun Bailey and Donovan captured in their photography of the revolutionary 1960s, the glamour of the 1930s/1940s movie stars and the androgyny of the 70’s glam rock musicians seem to captivate today’s designers more than our current decade.

The late 1990s, early 2000s were inundated with fashion reflecting the buzz of the new millennium, futuristic visions and technological uncertainties. Alexander McQueen’s infamous S/S 1999 catwalk show with Shalom Harlow epitomises these influences. Harlow in that beautiful, crisp, A -line dress belted at the breast rotating in the centre of the catwalk looking elegantly terrified of two large robotic arms moving in time with Mozart’s ‘Adagio’ on either side of her. After a time they begin to spray black and yellow paint onto the moving canvas, whilst the audience appreciates the master piece noisily. But the buzz of these slightly unknown, but exciting future inspirings seem to have waned somewhat in recent years. Instead of looking forward to the excitement of what the unknown future will bring, designers are taking inspiration from past

Many of next season’s collections pay tributes to the designers’ trips in Doc’s Delorean weaving inspiration from past decades with a modern day twist.

Take Paul Costelloe who had the honour of showcasing his collection in the first Friday slot, commencing the week of fashion festivities. His ‚1920s and 1930s reinterpreted with a rock’n’roll attitude‛ inspired show rocked considerably shorter hemlines than would have then been acceptable in his inspirational decades, but the fabrics, colours and shapes set the standards high for this London Fashion Week. Also citing Madeleine Vionnet as inspiration hints of her trademark halter neck and handkerchief dresses could be seen shining through Costelloe’s modern adaptations.

Daks opened the second day with a 1940s aviation inspired collection. Largely

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shapeless in style it is a refreshing change from the excessively structured and bodycon collections of recent years. Reminiscent of Daks’ 2010 Autmun / Winter collection, there was an elegant mix of loose highwaisted trousers and blouses, derrière scraping high waisted shorts, blazers and calf length dresses. Daks has proven that Ameliea Earhart is a worthy muse for his spring/summer collection, and it seems that if an inspiration can span 70 years, a collection can spread two seasons!

this writer. Before setting up her own business Caroline Charles worked with one of fashions most instrumental designers, Mary Quant. Famous for popularising the mini skirt and catapulting hot pants to the top of every fashionsta’s must-have list, Charles was blessed with the best mentor in town.

With an amazing CV lined up behind her it is no wonder Caroline Charles’ collection was inspired by ‚1960s chic‛.

Many of the outfits were accompanied by gloves in a variety of colours, but hats and quiffs were highlighted as being the ultimate accessory. Dresses, Seventies chic resonated throughout the shirts and jackets alike were nipped in House Of Holland collection. Pleated A at the waist with the aid of a skinny -line skirts, flared trousers and wide belt. Tailoring, ditsy floral prints sleeved blouses are a far cry from the and an elegant selection of every girls signature HOH t-shirts that have graced favourite, the little black dress, prothe catwalks of LFW previously. It vides excessive evidence to argue that seems as though indulging in a decade this is Charles’ best SS collection to Holland has only experienced through date. photography, music and film has catapulted the designer into the realms of If looking towards the past and not the future means more Fashion Weeks like maturing designers. This outstanding Spring / Summer collection marks a true the ones we have witnessed this September then we have a great deal to look turning point for HOH. forward to.

It was Caroline Charles’ S/S 2011 collection that grabbed the attention of

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Photographer- Laura Peta Ellis Model– Rebecca Diver-Clarke

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RAD (adjective) meaning: Really cool, but in a more subtle way. As opposed to extreme or awesome. One of the highest compliments you can give someone.

Being rad is like being cool without having to work for it. It's like a natural coolness

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