Winter 2014/15 by Rafaholicsdotcom

WINTER 2014 2015 $ 50.00

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PUBLISHER´S LETTER

Vamos! We are delighted to add Rafael Nadal to the list of champions who have graced the cover of Haute Time magazine. We first met Rafael Nadal back in 2011, following his magical first year with Richard Mille, during which he won almost every tournament he entered. Following that meeting, we’ve admired from afar his many achievements on and off the court, not least the improvements his powerful forehand are responsible for, after years of collaboration with Richard Mille on the development of lightweight materials. Just like Richard Mille, it took some time convincing the tennis world number three to join us, but Nadal finally put his racket down just long enough to tell us about the Richard Mille watches that have captured our imagination—and a few titles—along the way.

Where it all started: Back in 2011, Richard Mille Americas President John Simonian, Haute Time Publisher Kamal Hotchadani, Rafael Nadal, and Richard Mille (left to right) discussed doing a cover with Haute Time in the future.

Meanwhile, we’ve witnessed an unusually busy second-half of the year in the watch industry, due perhaps to the growing influence of young fairs such as SalonQP and Watches & Wonders. Haute Time was there to cover all the news. In Dubai, we sat down with Jean-Claude Biver to discuss his take-over of the LVMH watch division. In Miami, we spoke to Zenith’s new CEO, Aldo Magada, about his vision for the brand under the group’s new regime. Meanwhile, in London, we met with Usain Bolt, who told us about the watches that have renewed his competition with Yohan Blake. Finally, we sat down with established watch collectors Steve Angello, formerly of Swedish House Mafia, and Nicolas Bijan, heir to the House of Bijan. During this busy year for the watch industry, Haute Time welcomed its own new additions, and appointed Arthur Touchot as the magazine’s new editor-in-chief. Following that move, we’ve seen our readership double, and we are already looking forward to sustained growth in 2015!

CO-FOUNDER KAMAL HOTCHANDANI

HAUTETIME.COM

CO-FOUNDER SETH SEMILOF

Three years later: Haute Time Publisher Seth Semilof, Rafael Nadal, and Haute Time Editor-in-Chief Arthur Touchot meet up in Nice, France, to shoot the cover of the Winter Issue of Haute Time.

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CONTENTS

WINTER 2014 2015

PATEK PHILIPPE 175TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY IN GENEVA Events

14 HAUTE LUXURY

14 Ferrari F60 America 16 McLaren 650S Coupe

HAUTE CURATOR

34 The Balanced Portfolio 36 Investing in Rolex

HAUTE COLLECTOR

EVENTS

18 Hublot unveils Dallas Cowboys partnership 20 Richard Mille revives Arts & Elegance in Chantilly

22 All eyes on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

26 Jaeger-LeCoultre sponsors the 71st Venice Film Festival

HAUTE PHILANTHROPY

28 Blancpain commits to protecting the world’s oceans

HAUTETIME.COM

40 Nicolas Bijan reveals two generations of watch collecting

44 DJ Steve Angello goes on the record

COVER STORY

48 Rafael Nadal on collecting titles and watches

THE MAVERICK OF TIME

54 Jean-Claude Biver talks about his new role at LVMH

IWC PIlot. EngInEErEd for avIators.

Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital

designed to give pilots a feeling of security. Which

Date-Month. Ref. 3791: In the days when the Spitfire

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conquered the skies, there was no shortage of

to come.

i wc . e n g i n e e r e d fo r m e n .

heroes. And where there were heroes, there were bad guys, too. Anyone up there without a wingman could only rely on his instincts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and his IWC. Today, the IWC Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital DateMonth comes with up to 68 hours power reserve and a glass secured against drops in air pressure, all

Mechanical chronograph movement, Self-winding, 68-hour power reserve when fully wound, Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds, Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, Flyback function, Small hacking seconds, Digital perpetual calendar

(figure), Leap year display, Screw-in crown, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Water-resistant 6 bar, 18 ct red gold

WINTER 2014 2015

INSIDE THE MANUFACTURE

60 An exclusive look inside Audemars Piguet’s family-owned manufacture

ONE ON ONE 68 Grandmaster Aldo Magada takes over Zenith

HAUTE FASHION 72 Built to Last: The secrets behind miniature mechanics

82 Against the Elements: Subtle lines meet intense designs

90 Winter Chill: Turn up the heat this season with these bejeweled candies

DISPATCHES 98 Haute Time UK visits SalonQP, and the new Richard Mille boutique

104 Haute Time UAE races with Ferrari in U.A.E.

WATCHES AND WONDERS 110 A review of the top 5 watches showcased in 2014

WORN BY WOMEN 116 Playing with boys´ toys

TIME OUT

82 HAUTETIME.COM

110

120 5 minutes with Olympic sprinter Usain Bolt

120

In 1784, the groundbreaking Pierre Jaquet Droz established Geneva’s first ever watchmaking factory.

Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel , ref. J007033200 Ivory Grand Feu enamel, double level. 18-carat red gold case. Self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance. Power reserve of 68 hours. Pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock. Diameter 43 mm. W W W. J AQ U E T- D RO Z . C O M

HAUTE AUTO

o commemorate its 60th year in North America, Ferrari returned to its 1950s and ‘60s tradition of producing limited-edition, built-to-order cars. The result of that drive is this F60 America, a car that combines what Ferrari perceives as two quintessentially American automotive passions; V12 engines and open-top driving. The 2015 F60 employs both beautifully. The F60 America is powered by Ferrari’s award-winning midfront-mounted V12, which enables the car to sprint from 0 to 100 km/h in just 3.1 seconds. Powerful and muscular, the car is designed in line with its aerodynamic requirements. The design highlights the driver area with red while the passenger side is black, as per the historic Ferrari racing cars. Only 10 of these beauties were built, and they’ve all been sold out, unfortunately. 10 Ferrari collectors already staked their claims, so the rest of us are left to admire the vehicles from afar.

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FERRARI

BY ADAM LEHRER

FERRARI

H A UTE A UTO

F60 AMERICA

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Limited Edition 60th Anniversary in North America Hublot, the Official Watch and Official Timekeeper of Ferrari and Scuderia Ferrari, celebrated the anniversary with a matching Hublot Big Bang “Ferrari Limited Edition 60th anniversary in North America.” 15

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HAUTE AUTO

MCLAREN 650S COUPE WINGED RAPIDITY

HAUTETIME.COM

MCLAREN

BY TIM LAPPEN

H A UTE A UTO

lthough a look at the McLaren family tree may give one the impression that the 650S is most like its brother, the MP4, rather than its father, the P1, it clearly takes after dad in the performance world. What’s not to love with 641 horses and 500 pounds of torque? A twin-turbo V8 in a 3,148 pound car with a seven-speed dual-clutch transmission. No wonder naught to 60 takes under three seconds. Now that is quick in anyone’s world. It’s quite astounding what McLaren has wrought from this power and heft, for a car with a base price of around $265,000

(add about $15,000 for the droptop Spider) and a V8 engine to post numbers like that is admirable indeed. Available in both Coupe and Spider (which weighs about 135 pounds less), this winged-door beauty is a sight to behold and even more fun to drive. One can dial up the performance adjustments (note to self—don’t try “Traction Control Off” in traffic) and turn this road car into a track tuner in short order. Given the weather change, many may be asking for a prescription for the winter blahs, so here it is: Buy. Drive. Smile. Repeat steps two and three… often.

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EVENTS

HUBLOT

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

HUBLOT UNVEILS DALLAS COWBOYS PARTNERSHIP Hublot announced an exclusive partnership with the Dallas Cowboys, making the Swiss luxury watch brand its Official Luxury Watch & Timekeeper. This is the very first time a luxury brand partners with an American football team, but Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe says it was a logical addition to the Hublot family. “Collaborating with an iconic team like the Dallas Cowboys felt like a natural addition to our ever-growing platform of unique and exciting partnerships across the world,” said Guadalupe. To celebrate the new partnership, Hublot launched three custom, limited-edition Dallas Cowboys-branded timepieces— two Classic Fusion and One King Power—inspired by the team’s blue and silver. Only 50 numbered pieces of each model will be produced. The watches feature the famed Cowboy star at 5 o’clock to pay homage to the Cowboys´ five Super Bowl wins, while the women’s piece boasts a star set in diamonds.

Jerry Jones discusses the Cowboys’ Hublot partnership while his wife Eugenia and Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe look on.

LADIES DALLAS COWBOYS

Jerry and Eugenia applaud the new timepieces alongside Guadalupe and the Cowboys.

CLASSIC FUSION DALLAS COWBOYS

Eugenia Jones shows off a Cowboys Hublot to an enthusiastic collector.

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EVENTS

RICHARD MILLE

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

Nearly 10,000 people gathered in the bucolic gardens of the Château de Chantilly to see a unique collection of the world’s most beautiful and iconic cars.

Richard Mille takes over the Château de Chantilly.

RICHARD MILLE REVIVES ARTS & ELEGANCE IN CHANTILLY What Richard Mille did, few could. In fact, no one had attempted to bring back the Concours D‘Elegance, a French institution that celebrates style and substance in the auto industry, since the event died out in the 1930s. Richard Mille kicked off the festivities with a fabulous gala dinner in the Chantilly horse museum. More than 500 of the brand’s closest friends surrounded Richard Mille, who spent the evening with Natalie Portman and her husband Benjamin Millepied, fresh from his appointment as the new director of the Opera de Paris. On Sunday, nearly 10,000 people gathered in the bucolic gardens of the Château de Chantilly to see a unique collection of the world’s most beautiful and iconic cars. Richard Mille, the brand, remained very discreet during the day, while Richard Mille, the man, was seemingly overjoyed to spend it sharing his own passion for cars with his closest friends. But we did catch a couple of timepieces, including the RM 033. The brand has already announced the second Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille would take place again next September at the Château de Chantilly, with a host of new mechanical surprises! The bar certainly has been set very high this year, and we can’t wait to see the next edition.

We caught some timepieces at the event, such as this RM 033 Boutique Edition.

HAUTETIME.COM

Inside the gala dinner.

The second Chantilly Arts & Elegance has already been announced, and we can’t wait.

THREE TIME ZONES AT A GL ANCE

PATRAVI TRAVELTEC FOURX Selected rose gold, precious titanium, extra-hard high-tech ceramic and tough natural rubber give time a new material form. Globetrotters will find that the Patravi TravelTec FourX brings them the perfect combination of luxury and high-tech. It displays three time zones at once and jumps across time zones at the touch of a button. With Carl F. Bucherer’s engineering on a miniature scale, your journey through time can begin. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

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EVENTS

GPHG

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

ALL EYES ON THE GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE After much deliberation, the jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2014 awarded the “Aiguille D’Or,” the event’s top prize, to Breguet’s Classique Chronométrie. Breguet also picked up the Public Prize for the Breguet Classic Dame. Blancpain and Omega completed this year’s haul for the Swatch Group by taking the Ladies’ Watch and Revival prizes, respectively. The other big winner was Jean-Claude Biver’s LVMH group, which received multiple nods, including wins for Hublot, Zenith and Bulgari. The GPHG otherwise recognized the creative and independent spirit of the industry, by rewarding brands such as Urwerk, Voutilainen, De Bethune, Grönefeld and Urban Jürgensen & Sonner.

Frédéric Beigbeder (co-host), Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO of Bulgari, winner of the Jewellery Watch Prize 2014), Melanie Winiger (presenter), Johann Schneider-Ammann (Federal councillor) and Carlo Lamprecht (President of the Foundation of the GPHG).

Let’s hear it for the winners of GPHG 2014.

HAUTETIME.COM

Guillaume Barazzone (National councillor and administrative councillor of the city of Geneva), Carlo Lamprecht (President of the Foundation of the GPHG), Johann Schneider-Ammann (Federal councillor) and Pierre Maudet (State councillor).

Sean Li and Zhixiang Ding (jury members) present Stephen Urquhart, CEO of Omega, as the winner of the Revival Watch Prize 2014.

Antoine Simonin and Patrick Wehrli (jury members), present Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, as the winner of the Striking Watch Prize 2014.

EVENTS

PATEK PHILIPPE

BY ADAM LEHRER

PATEK PHILIPPE 175TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY IN GENEVA Patek Philippe is generally known for subtlety or an almost oldtimey sense of classical elegance, not for its grandiose gestures of extravagance. But if the gala celebrating the brand’s historic 175th anniversary this past October was any indication, Patek Philippe may very well be loosening up; the event was quite the party. Held in a luxury tent outside Patek Philippe’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, the party treated collectors, journalists and retailers to an animated film showing milestones of the company’s history. The milestones included Polish immigrants Norbet de Patek and Francois Czapek founding Patek, Czapek and Cie in 1839 and the meeting of Antoine Patek and Adrian Philippe in Paris in 1844. The milestones lead to a ballet performance that segued into opening remarks by Thierry Stern and his son Philippe Stern. Champagne and caviar fueled the party and kept guests engaged in the stunning videos. The centerpiece of the event was the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime double-face reversible watch. Patek’s president Thierry Stern told the journalists in attendance that the piece was the result of “seven years of hard work.” The work shows. It is the most complicated wristwatch that the company has come up with and one of the more complicated watches in the world. It’s the first Patek Philippe double-face wristwatch that can be worn from either dial. Its $2.6 million price tag isn’t at all a stretch. Patek Philippe isn’t making light of its 175th anniversary, and this gala proved a worthy celebration of the brand’s history.

Patek went all out to celebrate its 175th anniversary, even offering a light show-fueled ballet.

PATEK PHILIPPE GRANDMASTER CHIME REFERENCE 5175R

Patek collectors, dealers, and enthusiasts from around the world gather to admire the stunning pieces.

HAUTETIME.COM

H2 | titanium BlaCK DlC Hyt is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H2, unique swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with Audemars piguet renaud & papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. Hyt - a new dawn in watchmaking. AventurA : King Jewelers | Beverly Hills : Westime | CHiCAgo : Geneva Seal | lA JollA : Westime | MiAMi : King Jewelers | new york : Cellini | Menlo pArk : Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry | west Hollywood : Westime | west pAlM BeACH : East Coast Jewelry

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EVENTS

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

BY REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR

JAEGER-LECOULTRE SPONSORS THE 71ST VENICE FILM FESTIVAL For the tenth consecutive year Swiss watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre was one of the major sponsors of the Venice Film Festival, an event now in its 71st year that took place from August 27 through September 6, at the Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido in Venice. The Swiss brand is dedicated to preserving what it calls the “seventh art,” an artistic discipline that is related closely to watchmaking in terms of its creativity and technical mastery. And Jaeger-LeCoultre has found this “seventh art” in the art of cinema, for like watchmaking, film employs a technical mastery as well as continuous artistic innovation.

Miguel Munoz Angel, Astrid Munoz, Milla Jovovich, Clive Owen, Helena Bordon, Elissa Shay and guests pose wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre watches during a gala dinner hosted by Jaeger-LeCoultre at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco during the 71st Venice Film Festival.

HAUTETIME.COM

1. Actor James Franco 2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Glory To The Filmmaker

Actress Sarah Gadon wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Cordonnet.

All images courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

This year saw Jaeger-LeCoultre award James Franco, a personality “who has brought great innovation to contemporary cinema,” with the Glory to the Filmmaker Award and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso that has been made unique by commemorative engraving and enameling. Following the conferral of the award, the festival premiered Franco’s new film The Sound and the Fury. This year’s festival also saw the brand present one of its latest projects: the restoration of the Scuola di San Rocco in Venice. Built in the 16th century and rendered by the unique creations of Venetian painter Tintoretto, this special location was the venue for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s gala dinner attended by internationally-renowned British actor and Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador Clive Owen, Italian actress and friend of the brand Cristiana Capotondi, as well as Milla Jovovich, Scott Haze, Helena Bordon, Miguel Munoz, Zoudé Dennenesch, Ekaterina Mtsituridze, and photographer Astrid Munoz, who was accompanied by famous polo player Eduardo Novillo Astrada.

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W O R L D T I M E WAT C H E S : : H AU T E T I M E

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BLANCPAIN

BY HAUTE TIME

SWIMMING WITH GIANTS Swiss leader commits to protecting the ocean with new diving watch

BLANCPAIN SUPPORTS THE PRISTINE SEAS PROJECT

lancpain and its president and CEO, Marc A. Hayek, invited their friends and partners to join them in Cap d’Antibes for an evening devoted to Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment. Blancpain’s legacy in the world of diving is a rich one. Sixty years ago, born of his own passion for scuba diving, Blancpain’s then-CEO, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, produced the world’s first modern diving watch, the now-iconic Fifty Fathoms. That timepiece reflected a shared vision, that of Fiechter drawn from his own underwater experiences and also that of the newly formed French combat diving corps, led by Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud. The ideas and concepts woven into that first Fifty Fathoms have defined diving watches for the industry ever since.

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H A U TE P H I LA N TH R O P Y

1. Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain 2. Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback 3. Atmosphere 4. Photo Exhibition

1 In recognition of its close links to diving and its Fifty Fathoms heritage, Blancpain has for many years been a fervent supporter of environmental initiatives to explore, preserve and protect the world’s oceans. Its generous financial donations to support the cause have come to be called the “Blancpain Ocean Commitment.” This year, the brand has found a new way to solidify that relationship, by unveiling the Ocean Commitment Circle concept and the first of the limited-edition timepieces, the Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. The new chronograph is the latest iteration in the Bathyscaphe collection, and joins the Chronograph Flyback launched at Baselworld 2014.

The Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe presents a few key changes. It features a deep blue dial to go with its oceanic theme, as well as a matching blue ceramic bezel. It also becomes the first Bathyscaphe with a matte grey ceramic case—a new material that looks like traditional steel, but is lighter and stronger. The new chronograph, of which there will only be 250 pieces made, reinforces the brand’s commitment to the cause of the ocean´s preservation and protection. For each watch sold, Blancpain will be donating € 1,000 to its Ocean Commitment charities. HAUTETIME.COM

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HAUTE CURATOR

BY JIMMY COSMO

THE BALANCED PORTFOLIO M

oney managers often talk about balancing portfolios. I collect watches with a similar logic: once aesthetics and romance are put to one side, the money has to work and with hedge funds taking a closer eye on physical assets and continued record-breaking prices emerging for vintage watches, now is a smart time to turn that hobby into a pension. Patek Philippe is blue chip; it’s an inflation hedge and if you invest in the classics (by which I mean the Philippe Stern watches) it has a steady yield. Watches such as Ref. 5970, 5070 and 5004 I suspect will continue to deliver that four to five per cent a year return when purchased in good condition with original box and certificate. Supply of such pieces is already tight and if you fancy yourself as the next George Soros with Paul Tudor Jones pockets, then pieces such as Ref. 5004 (in stainless steel) or Ref. 5074 are an exciting long-term acquisition. For those adrenalin junkies who gorge themselves on risk and sleepless nights, Paul Newman Daytona is perhaps the ultimate investment. It’s the hardest watch to appraise given the numerous theories on its dials and references, and within it lies what I believe is the biggest potential for growth in the market in watches, especially those with rare

PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5070

yellow gold. Paul Newman’s watch and a vintage Rolex are each unique assets in their own right. So where is the middle ground, the watch equivalent of a stock with decent dividend and long-term growth? The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263/6265 could be just the answer. In a similar vein is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070. Both watches exist at a price point that is within the relative realms of affordability; though they have both been discontinued, they are recognized as two of the most desirable watches from perhaps the two most coveted brands. With Ref. 5070 we find Patek’s largest case to date (42 mm) in all metals and inspired by the incredibly rare Ref. 2512 aviator’s split-second chronograph of the 1950s. With its manual-winding lemania based 27-70 movement, it’s recognized globally as the iconic modern Patek Chronograph. Quite simply, the purity of its design has not been topped. The presence of the Patek archive also adds the reassurance that

PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5270

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RALPH LAUREN Fine Watchmaking

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR BETTERIDGE GREENWICH MOYER’S FINE JEWELERS CARMEL BENARI JEWELERS EXTON, NEWTON FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS: 212.434.8050 A SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES IS NOW AVAILABLE AT RALPHLAUREN.COM

The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection RL67 TOURBILLON STAINLESS STEEL 45MM MODEL GUNMETAL FINISH SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT EQUIPPED WITH A MICRO-ROTOR SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK 38-HOUR POWER RESERVE SWISS MADE

H A UTE C U R ATO R the watch you are buying has not been plagiarised with dial changes that afflict many vintage Rolex watches. Ref. 6263/6265 have recently benefited from a number of important factors. The hugely successful Lesson One sale has defined the Daytona as the vintage Rolex for investment and the kudos of many high profile owners from the world of fashion and screen has added to their desirability and global appeal. Here is a watch that is a brand within a brand, characterized by a beautiful dial within a rugged and useable case. Finding good watches is however becoming increasingly difficult (especially for the Ref. 6263) and prices for such pieces are gravitating higher as supply from traditional markets such as Italy diminishes. As the price of Paul Newman pieces continues to rise ever closer to $150,000, the regular or “non-exotic” dial Ref. 6263/6265 at $60,000 loses real value. Consider that one Paul Newman Ref. 6263/6239 RCO famously fetched a magic $1 million, and that value looks even more appealing. Here is a great watch that defines what the Daytona stands for, fitted with a superb Valjoux calibre and the ability to provide good growth on your investments. A portfolio needs a balance and betting consistently on the underdog is a challenging ride. These two timepieces from two great manufacturers provide the ideal balance between risk and reward.

Jimmy Cosmo is a thirty-something money manager. He’s collected cars and watches (both vintage and modern) for more than 15 years. He started collecting limited-edition watches from the age of 8 and his passion grew with his appreciation for great brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. Follow Jimmy Cosmo on Instagram at @jimmycosmo.

ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6263

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ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6265

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CALIBER RM 055

HAUTE CURATOR

BY GIORGIA MONDANI

INVESTING IN ROLEX W

e will be frank with you: collecting Rolex watches can be an extremely safe investment, but only if you know the products and the market very well. The secret? Knowing what to look for! It sounds easy, but it’s not. Having analyzed the prices of Rolex watches over the years, we are able to determine which Rolex models have seen their value increase tenfold, and we wanted to explain the reasons behind their success.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600 “Polipetto” The “Polipetto” (meaning “little octopus”) was produced in 2008 to celebrate the golden jubilee of the State Police Scuba Divers Institution. Not only is it a rare watch, but it’s also one of very few Rolexes that bears the symbol of another association on its dial. Only 78 examples have been recorded worldwide. That’s one of the reasons behind the watch’s amazing success at Christie’s 2013 auction in Geneva, where it sold for CHF 125,000 ($131,250). It’s by no means cheap today, but it’s a sure investment. Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 in stainless steel Although you would think a fading dial would damage the value of the original watch, the Daytona becomes more valuable when its color changes give it a unique appearance. This dial is called a “Patrizzi dial” and represents a sort of myth today. The watch is named after an Italian collector who sold a Ref. 16520 black-dial Daytona that had a brown discoloration on the rings of its subdials. This watch is a perfect example of the fact that, when you are talking about a Rolex, a flaw can become an important asset. Current value: € 18,000 ($22,500) to € 22,000 ($27,500). ROLEX REF. 16600 POLIPETTO Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610 Panama Canal The Submariner Date Ref. 16610 Panama Canal has a current value of € 40,000 ($50,000) to € 50,000 ($62,500). Built by the United States between 1904 and 1914, the Panama Canal became property of the Republic of Panama on December 31, 1999. In order to commemorate the event, a limited edition of only 75 Submariner Date watches was produced. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 Ref. 5513 is available only in stainless steel. A couple of decades after its introduction, Rolex altered the model by adding a white dial, and inverting the depth rating (660 ft = 200 m). The new design remained untouched until the end of production in 1989, and although the reference is not rare in today´s market, it’s hard to find an example that is 100 percent authentic. Instead, you will likely find Frankenstein versions of this watch, with parts that do not correspond to the right period. Current value: € 5,000 ($6,250) to € 6,500 ($8,125). Daytona Ref. 6239 in stainless steel with Paul Newman dial This reference was produced from 1963 until 1969, and features pump push buttons, metal-calibrated bezels, and an Oyster twinlock 600 crown. The rarest of which bears three colors on the dial. Current value: € 75,000 ($93,750) to € 95,000 ($118,750). Rolex Ref. 6062 with Moon Phase Nowadays, collectors must be mindful of quality and rarity. Limited editions or watches produced in limited amounts are the best you can find, especially Ref. 6062 moon phases and Ref. 6538 James Bond models. Submariners and Daytonas personalized for Cartier and Tiffany are extremely precious, too.

ROLEX REF. 16520 PATRIZZI DIAL

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ROLEX SUBMARINER REF. 16610 PANAMA CANAL

H A UTE C U R ATO R

ROLEX SUBMARINER REF. 5513

ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6239 PAUL NEWMAN

ROLEX REF. 6062 MOON PHASE BELOW YOU’LL FIND A LONGER LIST OF THE BEST ROLEX WATCHES TO INVEST IN. ALL VALUES ESTIMATED ACCORDING TO RECENT AUCTION RESULTS BY GUIDO MONDANI EDITORE.

ROLEX DAYTONA Ref. 6239 in stainless steel – Current Value: € 19,000 ($23,750) to € 24,000 ($30,000) Ref. 6239 in stainless steel with Paul Newman dial – Current Value: € 70,000 ($87,500) to € 90,000 ($112,500) Ref. 6239 in gold 18k catalogue price: Current Value: € 70,000 ($87,500) to € 85,000 ($106,250) Ref. 6239 in gold 18k with Paul Newman dial – Current Value: € 140,000 ($175,000) to € 170,000 ($212,500) Ref. 6241 in stainless steel – Current Value: € 21,000 ($26,250) to €26,000 ($32,500) Ref. 6241 in gold 18k – Current Value: € 80,000 ($100,000) to € 95,0000 ($118,750) Ref. 6241 in gold 18k with Paul Newman dial – Current Value: € 150,000 ($187,500) to € 180,000 ($225,000) Ref. 6263 in stainless steel - Current Value: € 23,000 ($28,750) to € 28,000 ($35,000) Ref. 6265 in stainless steel – Current Value: : € 23,000 ($28,750) to € 28,000 ($35,000)

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Ref. 6263 in gold 18k – Current Value: € 55,000 ($68,750) to € 70,000 ($87,500) Ref. 6265 in gold 18k – Current Value: € 60,000 ($75,000) to € 75,000 ($93,750) ROLEX SUBMARINER Ref. 1680 with white writing - Current Value: € 6,000 ($7,500) to € 8,000 ($10,000) Ref. 1680 with red writing - Current Value: € 12,000 ($15,000) to € 14,000 ($17,500) ROLEX SEA-WELLER Ref. 1665 with red writing Mark I – Current Value : € 40,000 ($50,000) to € 50,000 ($62,500) Ref. 1665 with red writing Mark II – Current Value: € 25,000 ($31,250) to € 30,000 ($37,500) Ref. 1665 with red writing Mark III – Current Value € 20,000 ($25,000) to € 24,000 ($30,000) Ref. 1665 with red writing Mark IV – Current Value: € 16,000 ($20,000) to € 20,000 ($25,000)

Guido Mondani Editore is a publishing house founded by Guido Mondani in 1979. Specializing in haute horlogerie, it has become a reference for dealers and collectors all over the world. Today, Giorgia Mondani perpetuates her father’s passion, revealing the secrets behind the most prized vintage watches, in hopes of guiding our readers towards their dream purchases. Follow the company on Instagram at @mondanidoc and @giorgiamondani

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HAUTE COLLECTOR

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BY ADAM LEHRER

H A U TE C O LLE C TO R

HEIR CROWN TO THE

NICOLAS BIJAN REVEALS TWO GENERATIONS OF WATCH COLLECTING PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE HO INTERVIEW BY SETH SEMILOF

icolas Bijan, 23, is the son of Pakzad Bijan, the late owner of “the world’s most expensive store,” known as the “House of Bijan.” Born into luxury, he’s already amassed an amazing knowledge of luxury timepieces, and an equally impressive colletion. Outside of work, Pakzad was perhaps best known for his impressive auto collection, made up of yellow Rolls-Royce and Bugatti cars. But Nicolas reveals it was his father’s collection of rare Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe watches that have had the biggest impact on him. We sat down with the young collector to learn more about his favorite watches, including those he’s inherited and those he’d like to pick up in the future, as well as his passion for Gerald Genta, one of the industry’s greatest designers. 41

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H A U TE C O LLE C TO R

Nicolas Bijan wearing his father’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore with pavé diamonds and matching cuff links.

You’ve amassed quite the collection at 23, but two brands seem to stand out: Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Is it correct to assume those are your favorite brands?

As you’ve mentioned, this is a “classic” Audemars Piguet. But you also have an interest in high jewelry pieces, don’t you?

Absolutely. Those are the pieces that I use on a daily basis. Some of them were my father’s. Audemars Piguet is especially important because my father loved it. I actually have a baby photo of me in the delivery room, being held by my father who is dressed in a beautiful brown suit with a gorgeous gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. I don’t know what happened to it, but I have the same watch in stainless steel today. The brand launched the Royal Oak over 40 years ago and its style hasn’t changed much over the years. You can wear a Royal Oak with a suit, and you can wear one casually. I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of that design.

Yes, and this high jewelry Royal Oak is a gorgeous example. I wear it to black tie events. I can confidently say it’s my favorite watch in the whole collection because it was my father’s. My father wore this every day. It was given to me just as I was about to start university. This one holds a lot of sentimental value. My father was such a big figure and had so much charisma that he could wear a watch like this everyday. I actually have cuff links that match, with pavé diamonds and my initials. That was something my dad also had. I’d say that my biggest style icon would be my father. You also own two Patek Philippe watches.

Because the previous Royal Oak disappeared, are you already thinking about holding onto this one for your future son? Yes, that’d be very nice! This next one is the Royal Oak OffShore in rose gold. That’s the one I wear the most out of all of my watches, and once again it has that classic Audemars Piguet style. The color combination is beautiful. If you see me, nine times out of ten, you’re going to see me wearing this one.

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I love how Patek Philippe has this saying that, “you never actually own a Patek Philippe; you merely look after it for the next generation.” These watches are really great investments. They appreciate in value, which is rare for watches that you can wear daily. I have this Ref. 5159. It’s a beautiful piece. This one is yellow gold, and it opens up in the back so you can see the movement. It has the perpetual calendar, the moon phase, and the leap year. I wear a suit every day and it’s nice to have this watch as an accessory.

H A U TE C O LLE C TO R And for your second piece, you’ve chosen the World Timer. Can you tell us why this model makes you tick?

Outside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, what are some of the others brands that you keep an eye on?

The reason I love Patek Philippe so much is that it makes watches that are really amazing accessories to a suit. The bracelet on this particular watch is really a piece of art. It’s a formal watch as well, but sometimes you see people wearing it casually. Another watch I like that Gerald Genta designed was the Patek Philippe Nautilus. That’s a watch that I’d really like to get.

I think watchmaking is really an art, and there are a couple of brands that I admire aside from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Greubel Forsey is amazing; it makes incredible machines. Breguet is also an amazing brand. It has a lot of history and the pieces that it makes are gorgeous. But I’ll always have special affection for Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

It would appear you really like that designer.

Why do you think that is?

I’m a huge fan of Gerald Genta. Even his work with Bulgari was very cool. He was innovative, forward-thinking, and understood quality, exclusivity, and price points. And those are all of the things that we think of at Bijan. When Gerald Genta designed the first Royal Oak watch, it was innovative and sporty. But I think what made Gerald Genta so successful was the test of time. Pieces like that you have to have respect for not only from a design standpoint, but also from a collector’s standpoint.

I have a lot of respect for brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe because they have a similar philosophy. It’s an honor to wear them. One day I’ll be able to pass them down to my son, or my grandchildren. Anything that you can pass through the generations is amazing. That commitment to excellence is very important. Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Greubel Forsey, and Breguet are all brands that share a philosophy similar to Bijan’s, and I have a lot of respect for them.

(From Left to Right) Patek Philippe World Timer, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold, Patek Philippe Ref. 5159, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Triple Date, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore with pavé diamonds.

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HAUTE COLLECTOR

HAUTETIME.COM

BY DANIEL NOVELA

H A U TE C O LLE C TO R

ON THE

RECORD

STEVE ANGELLO WITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE HO

We decided to begin a series of articles on DJs and watches to see what connection exists between the DJ world and the horological world. To our surprise, we discovered one of the most incredible watch collections of any musician. 45

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H A U TE C O LLE C TO R Today, when I travel, I tend to dress comfortably. In that setting, wearing a nice watch speaks to who you are as a person and what your tastes are. If you wear a watch blinged out with diamond, versus a watch with many complications, you are two different people. I have learned to love Audemars Piguet watches, and it has been a journey for me. I have been to the Audemars Piguet factory, and have seen the work and passion that goes into each piece. That is one of the reasons I love this brand. The company is one of the few independent brands; independence appeals to me as an artist. DN: 19 Audemars Piguets—that’s impressive. How do you decide which watch to wear? SA: I find that I wear certain watches for certain occasions. I have my everyday watches and then I have special watches, which I may wear for special occasions, like an award show—not necessarily more expensive, just nicer, [perhaps] with different materials or colors. And when I am feeling more creative, I may choose a different watch. Watches really can be a reflection of my mood. Steve Angello is wearing the Audemars Piguet Survivor Royal Oak Offshore All Black.

ou’ve most likely heard of Steve Angello—if not his name, at least his music. The international DJ rose to fame as one of the three original members of Swedish House Mafia, and has since moved on to a very successful solo career, producing and remixing some of the largest hits of the last few years. After seeing him perform during Swedish House Mafia’s final bow at Ultra Miami last year, we sat down with him to talk about the watch that was on his wrist that night, and found out he had quite a few more. For the first time ever, he reveals his entire watch collection. DN: How did you first become interested in watches? SA: I was pretty young when I first became interested in watches. At the time, it was viewed as one of the few accessories acceptable for a man. My first watch was a vintage Rolex GMT with this amazing rounded crystal. I purchased it at a store in Paris. This was the beginning of my collection of Rolexes. I would look for different faces, limited edition pieces. Since DJing required that I travel often, I would find stuff that was not seen everywhere. DN: What is your favorite watch brand now? SA: I would have to say that now it’s Audemars Piguet. I own 19 of them... A watch is a reflection of your style; it says a lot about who you are, and it defines you as a person. Every man should have a great watch. It does not have to be very expensive. But it should say something about you.

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DN: It seems to me that watch brands and DJ superstars are natural partners because their hands are shot a lot on camera. Have you noticed an increased interest from watch brands in electronic music? SA: Yes and no. Electronic music is still being established. It’s not like with athletes that are proven from a marketing standpoint. If you think about it, electronic music is still relatively new. I find that it’s the smaller brands that are approaching DJs more than the bigger brands. But I really don’t think it will change until DJs start to think more like artists and are viewed more as creators of music as opposed to [just music players]. As that happens, and it will, interest will increase from everywhere. DN: Is there any particular DJ who introduced you to watches or made you become more interested in watches? SA: Actually no, I developed this interest on my own. Watches were not very big among DJs when I started. I fell in love with the story of watches, the craftsmanship, and the history; that was the hook for me. DN: Time is such an important part of DJing; does that have relevance as to why you are interested in watches? SA: No, but it might be a travel thing; time is very valuable to a DJ and we spend a lot of time on the road. I also value the mechanics of it. In a digital world, a mechanical watch is a completely analogue machine. And you value it much more because of that. Diamonds on a digital watch may cost the same as a mechanical watch, but I would not value it nearly as much.

H A U TE C O LLE C TO R DN: Hip-hop stars have gravitated to flashy watches with diamonds; world leaders seem to gravitate towards understated, elegant watches. What watch type or brand do you think is or will be representative of DJs? SA: When I started collecting, I did not see many nice watches on DJs, but now I see a lot of APs in matte black, not the show-off flashy kind. Those or steel Rolexes, I would say, are most representative of DJs now. DN: I can’t help but notice the amazing Haruki Murakami piece in your home; can you tell us what interests you about most about the art you collect? SA: Art is bold, beautiful, or both. Sometimes when music doesn’t inspire me I turn to art. I’m a visual guy and most of the times I need my artworks finished to compose the music. I need to visualize the way the music will sound. DN: Who are the artists that interest you the most? SA: Murakami, Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons and Tyler Shields. Four very different artists that speaks very well through art. DN: Do you see a relationship between your interest in music, watches and art? How do they influence each other? SA: Absolutely. Music is an art form that needs to be inspired by the world around you. I don’t usually leave the house when I write music. It could be months. So I need to have that inspiration at home where I have built my own world. DN: What is your dream watch? SA: I still don’t own my dream watch. I did see a Rolex GMT, Arabic edition, with a beautiful domed glass; I don’t know exactly which one it was, but it was made for a royal gulf family. I can’t seem to get it out of my head, so I may try for one like it. Also, I owned an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Carbon Concept Tourbillon that I sold for some reason. I would like to buy it back; I will at some point.

Rolex and Audemars Piguet from Steve Angello’s collection.

Steve Angello’s latest album, “Wild Youth”, will be released on an independent label at the end of the year.

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COVER STORY

RICHARD MILLE

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

WRIST ACTION

RAFAEL NADAL ON COLLECTING TITLES

AND WATCHES PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCEL HARTMANN

Call him “Rafa.” Mr. Nadal is the only title the world number three doesn’t want to add to his list. Watches, on the other hand, he loves to add to his ever-expanding collection. In October, we sat down with Rafael Nadal in Nice, France, during a promotional golf tournament organized by Swiss luxury watchmaker Richard Mille.

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C O V ER STO R Y

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C O V ER STO R Y

Rafael Nadal poses with the trophy after defending his Madrid Open title this year.

RICHARD MILLE RM 027

Rafael Nadal playing the Final of Roland Garros in 2011.

adal has just completed 18 holes, a warm-up compared to what’s coming up next. His coach has propped a set of tennis rackets against the wall ahead of this evening’s training session. But for a moment, Nadal can relax, and indulge in one of his more unexpected passions: the world of watches. Rafa looks relaxed. He’s wearing a pair of faded jeans and a red crew neck t-shirt that matches his custom Nike sneakers. But he means business. He hasn’t even sat down when he flashes his trademark grin. He’s ready to go. This is one watch ambassador who knows his stuff. Rafael Nadal and Richard Mille have been inseparable since their first meeting in 2007. He is “family,” according to Nadal, who’s raring to talk about the man who made his watch. “I didn’t want to wear a watch at first,” he admits. When Richard Mille approached him to be his ambassador, he turned him down, saying it would be impossible to play with a watch. “I’m always swinging my wrist, and it will bother me.” Like many tennis players, the Spanish champion has a complex set of rituals that have been integrated into his routine. “You know, the bottles have to been in line, the shorts must be readjusted,” says a smiling Richard Mille. “They aren’t simple, athletes.”

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C O V ER STO R Y This wasn’t the first time one of them had turned Richard Mille down. Michael Schumacher had done the same before, which had opened the door for the now-infamous Felipe Massa partnership. But Mr. Mille was determined to have Nadal on his side of the court. He returned to Switzerland, emboldened by their meeting, and told his team they needed to create a watch that weighed less than 20g, strap included. “Boss, you need a holiday,” responded Julien Boillat, the brand’s technical director. But after a two-year “battle,” Richard Mille flew to Palma de Mallorca to meet with Nadal once more. The pair had stayed close during the development of the first watch, and Nadal’s curiosity had only grown over time, giving way to impatience. Rafa made sure he was on the tarmac to welcome “Ricardo” as soon as he landed. “Show me the reloj,” Nadal told Mr. Mille, excited to see the first prototype. This time, it was his turn to decline. “He was boiling,” remembers the CEO. Nadal would have to wait a couple of hours, until they could sit down quietly. “Let me show you the watch that I want you to use,” said Mr. Mille handing him Jean Totd’s personal RM 12, a hefty platinum watch, to see if he could fool Nadal. “Ricardo, I can’t wear this, it’s too heavy,” said the victim of the joke. “You are losing your muscle; you are becoming weak,” laughed Mr. Mille, before reaching into his jacket once more to reveal the truth: the RM o27 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal. “Cabron, this is the real watch!” Rafa’s eyes widened, and according to Mr. Mille, you could even see them glaze over. “He had made another one, and it was incredible,” said Nadal. Right away, the RM o27 goes on Nadal’s wrist, and becomes part of the training regimen. A few parts break, “which I was sure was going to happen,” reveals Mr. Mille. “I want to do extreme pieces for extreme conditions,” and you cannot have more extreme conditions than working with Nadal.

Rafael Nadal and Richard Mille, at the Official Launch of the RM 027 Rafael Nadal.

RICHARD MILLE RM 035

Because of that, Richard Mille believes the brand has developed a deeper knowledge during its 13-year existence, than brands with several centuries behind them. The final product is ready just in time for the biggest season of Nadal’s career. “I started wearing it in 2010, and right after I won Roland Garros, Wimbledon and then the US Open, so it was just an unforgettable moment for me.” Has it become a good luck charm? He smiles. It was “magic,” he admits. Richard Mille tempts the superstitious when he confiscates the winning watch in Australia the next year. After a heavy fall during the US Open, Rafa had scratched up the watch “beyond repair,” says Mr. Mille. Perhaps the watch sat a little too comfortably on Nadal’s wrist.

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C O V ER STO R Y

Defeated: 2014 was a complicated year for Rafael Nadal, seen here wearing the RM 027.

RICHARD MILLE RM 27-01

“Seriously, I forget about it,” says Nadal, talking about the watch. It never gets in the way, whether he is playing tennis, playing golf, or reading. “It’s so light, and so comfortable on the wrist.” Nadal wouldn’t make the final of the Australia Open, and hasn’t lifted the title there since winning the tournament back in 2009. As for the damaged watch, it now sits proudly on Mr. Mille’s wrist. But Nadal has since made up for his Australian misfortunes with five Grand Slam wins. “He’s an unbelievable person,” says Nadal of Mr. Mille. “What he did in his world of watches is really unbelievable, in such a short amount of time. For me Richard is like a friend.” In the summer of 2012, the bond is strengthened when Richard Mille crashes in Italy during a race on the same weekend of the Roland Garros final. “I had a suspension problem, and I drove into the wall very strongly.” While focusing on a rare Monday final, a worried Nadal sent more than 20 text messages to his friend “Ricardo.” Richard Mille and Rafael Nadal have since known great success individually and as a team, and the first RM 027 has been given a new design, with Rafa’s input. A new Velcro® strap has been added, at his request, because the buckle would sometimes cut into his wrist.

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C O V ER STO R Y RICHARD MILLE RM 35-01

And this year, the brand introduced a new Rafael Nadal watch, the “Baby Nadal,” at a more affordable price point. But Rafa doesn’t have a favorite. That would be like picking a favorite title. Instead, he chooses his watches based on his mood and style. Does he keep it as long as he’s winning, I ask? “Seriously, it depends on the moment.” In between tournaments is when he gets to have the most fun however. He keeps his collection close. “I wear two watches when I’m traveling. I don’t want to lose a watch,” he jokes. His current tournament watch is the RM 27-01. Nadal has been wearing it on and off the court since 2013, and says it’s just “unbelievably comfortable.” It’s no surprise that Nadal feels at ease wearing the RM 27-01 considering that the ultra-light carbon composite watch weighs in at just 19 g, Velcro® strap included. Nadal though, isn’t as complicated. “Me? No. Richard Mille watches are very sophisticated, and very complicated. But I’m not complicated,” says Nadal. The only complication he’s known has been the injuries during his career. Two years ago, he was stopped nearly 9 months, technically allowing Richard Mille to scrap their contract, but there was simply no way Richard would do that. This year hasn’t been easy for the athlete either, and he doesn’t hide from the fact. Nadal doesn’t seem defeated by it though. “The year in general has been very positive,” he says. “The first six months were very positive.” They include a berth at the Australian Open final, and wins in Rio and Doha, before clinching a record ninth Roland Garros title. “What happened, happened.” It’s that simple for Nadal, and he doesn’t hold any grudges against his body. “The second part of the year was so difficult. That’s part of life, that’s part of sport, and it’s only happened to me a few times in my career.” Instead Nadal says he’s working “extra hard,” and is motivated to get back to the top. And that means taking it day-by-day. “I never thought I’d be in the situation today, having won every thing that I’ve won.” But everyone wants to win, he adds. That’s something all professional tennis players of his level share. “Seriously for me, the most important thing is to be happy, compete well, and give myself the chance to be competitive against any opponent, and I know if I create opportunities, I will win a few titles.” Nadal glances over at his manager, Carlos Costa. It’s time to put those Nike sneakers to the test.

Nadal’s pick this year, the RM 027-01 with custom red Velcro® strap for added comfort.

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FEATURE

BY REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR

THE MAVERICK OF TIME

JEAN-CLAUDE

BIVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIHAD ADNAN

In October, Hublot launched its pop-up store and Ferrari F1 Racing Simulator at The Dubai Mall. During the event, Rebecca Anne Proctor met with watch industry magnate Jean-Claude Biver to talk about his new role at LVMH and the essence of the Hublot brand. HAUTETIME.COM

F EATU R E

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F EATU R E

ean-Claude Biver has seen it all in the watch industry. From his humble beginnings at Audemars Piguet, to his new position at the very top of the LVMH group, Biver has guided several brands towards prosperity, protecting them when needed. With a career that spans more than 40 years, the godfather of the watch industry now conducts his closest allies as the director of timepieces for Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy. There he oversees Hublot, a brand that he bought, re-built, sold and also directed as the brand’s chief executive until early 2012, but also Zenith and TAG Heuer among others. He’s a maverick of sorts—a man who has taken risks to build concepts he believes in. Before making his mark on Hublot, Biver bought Blancpain, turned it into a haute horlogerie brand, and then sold it to the Swatch Group. He was subsequently offered Hublot just as he was on the verge of making a break from the watch industry. When he came on board in 2004, Hublot was a small watch brand in Spain selling around 9,000 watches for an average price of around $2,000 dollars. It is now one of the biggest labels in the industry and its revival is one of Biver’s most notable achievements. In his current role at LVMH, Biver is positioned, as he says, “like a conductor of an orchestra” coordinating the various watch brands he looks after with expert supervision, creative prowess and inspirational spirit.

1. Jean-Claude Biver at the Hublot Boutique in Dubai 2. Jean-Claude Biver with Soccer Legend and Hublot Ambassador Pelé

We met Biver in Dubai in the atrium of The Dubai Mall, during a special exhibition, “The Art of Fusion,” which showcased the different facets of his coined concept for Hublot. A first for Dubai and for Hublot, the exhibition also presented the launch of Hublot’s pop-up store and Ferrari F1 racing simulator also at The Dubai Mall. Such a pivotal show set the backdrop for a conversation with Biver in which he shared his views on the Middle Eastern market for luxury watches, his new role at LVMH, the Swiss watchmaking industry today and the essential character of the Hublot brand. You’ve recently been appointed president of LVMH’s watch division, and are now responsible for Zenith, Hublot, and Tag Heuer. What have you sought to develop within the company’s watch sector since your arrival?

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F EATU R E

3 It seems like a big role, but it isn’t. We have three brands that are well-positioned in the market and that have their own DNA— there is no overlapping. We have three brands with good management and so my duty is to try to coordinate all of this. I am not the musician who is going to play music in each of the three brands. I want to conduct the musicians of the three brands. Maybe before I was a soloist playing a piano and now I am a conductor of an orchestra, we are still playing the same tunes. And many people of this orchestra have been with me for quite some time when I was a pianist. My perception is that nothing has changed though I travel a bit more now. While I came to Dubai for Hublot, this time I will also take the opportunity to look at the other brands we oversee – something that in the past I never did. So there’s a bit more work, more traveling, but all in all, I don’t see much difference.

3. Jean-Claude Biver with Hublot Global CEO Ricardo Guadalupe 4. Jean-Claude Biver with Jamaican World Record Sprinter Usain Bolt

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F EATU R E Also, these brands are not foreign to me. I have known each of them for quite some time. If you’ve been 40 years in the business, then you just know. It’s the same for Cartier and Chopard; I know these brands very well because I am in the industry. It would be different if I were coming from the perfume industry! You were offered the chance to revive the Hublot brand, and have turned it into a very successful one at that. What are the three elements that make Hublot unique within the watch industry? In your opinion, what drives customers to the brand? What sets Hublot apart from other brands is that it is a disruptive brand. In luxury, being disruptive is not so common because luxury tends and tries to connect to tradition and the past, and eventually even to repeat the past. Hublot is breaking these rules and saying, “We will not repeat, we will bring the tradition which we respect, understand and master, and we will connect this tradition to the future.” How? Like artists, if you look at a painting or a sculpture, never will you find an artist ready to repeat the Impressionists. Art is always going to the future. Art never

5 comes back to the past and we are in the same position. I don’t want to compare us to painters and art history, but we come from the same idea that we are creating something always for tomorrow.

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If an artist from the past came back today and saw that all the art produced followed the same kind of art that he was creating long ago, he would wonder what had happened and why artists today hadn’t created works for the future-works that were different from those of the past. So Hublot is disruptive because it is a brand that connects the Swiss tradition to the future. When you connect tradition to the future, there are some changes. We call it the “art of fusion”; we are fusing two elements together—the past and the future, [which makes] a huge difference. This means that if we do a watch that is, for example, $1 million, there could be no gold, platinum and precious materials. In the past, gold was always linked to precious materials, as it gave a watch high value. Watches in the past used to be made in precious materials, and gold is heavy.

F EATU R E Why do we want to make a heavy watch now? What for? We want a light watch, which is different from in the past! Hublot is a disruptive brand, which there are not many of; since most brands have a very traditional DNA, if they destroy that DNA, then they won’t exist. But Hublot is the contrary—it must be disruptive! Hublot has spent a lot of its marketing to align itself with some of the biggest sports brands (Ferrari, the World Cup and F1, to name a few). How do such campaigns directly impact the sales and growth of the brand? In reality, we follow our customer. Our customers have a certain lifestyle and most of them are connected to a certain sport—either a sport that they practice themselves or a sport that they watch. And we decided to follow our customers wherever they may go. If one goes to Costa Smeralda, then we must go there in the summer; if he goes skiing in Courchevel in the winter, then we must be there in winter; and if he goes to watch a football game, then we must be there. If he goes to Art Basel Miami Beach, then we must be there,

too. If the customer finds us wherever he goes, then very quickly we belong to his lifestyle. He will see us wherever he goes. And this is why we are connected to sports. What, in your opinion, makes the Swiss industry so strong today? The Swiss watch industry is doing well because it is still very small. There are so many people who don’t even care to wear a watch. We are not like the phone industry, in which people in a thousand countries have four phones and suddenly cannot purchase a fifth. So we are still in an industry with a lot of wrists to conquer; the potential is huge. The Swiss watch industry slowed down a bit this year; however, it continues to be a record year. We still [brought in] 2.8 percent more [in sales] than we did last year, but there is a certain consolidation due to the uncertainty of the world. There was a crisis in the Middle East, in Syria and in Iraq, added to the uncertainties in Ukraine and Russia, and now to the democratic protests in Hong Kong—all of this makes people a bit weary, and when

people are weary, they slow down their way of living. They spend less and travel less. So there is a certain consolidation, but on the longer term I see the market developing. So I am very confident in the future of the Swiss watch industry. The Swiss watch industry also has a great past. But then again, there can be no future without tradition. At the same time, there also can’t be a future without innovation. Sometimes people only understand innovation and not tradition. The trick is to understand both. According to you, what are the biggest trends in watchmaking today? I don’t see many new trends. People love colors and I see a lot of color now; people love lightweight watches and also watches with a strong personality and character. An understated watch is not what people like at the moment, but it will come back one day. So these for me are the trends: the materials, the colors and the weight. But the weight depends on the materials, as does the color. What we need to work on in the Swiss watchmaking industry is on using new materials in our watches.

5. Jean-Claude Biver with Joseph Blatter, president of FIFA 6. Jean-Claude Biver with Chelsea Football Club coach José Mourinho and Hublot Global CEO Ricardo Guadalupe 7. Jean-Claude Biver with Bernie Ecclestone of F1

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HAUTE MANUFACTURE

AUDEMARS PIGUET

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

AT HOME IN LE BRASSUS

AUDEMARS

PIGUET´S

FAMILY-OWNED MANUFACTURE HAUTETIME.COM

H A UTE M A N U F A CTU R E

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H A UTE M A N U F A CTU R E

f there was ever one moment during our tour of the Audemars Piguet manufacture that encompassed the identity of the brand, it’s when we stood on the second floor of the original manufacture, looking out of the same windows Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet once faced, back in 1875. Little has changed since. In front of us stood the same Swiss hill, lined with wooden cottages and pine trees that the founders would have contemplated while working on their very first watches. It’s a view that Audemars Piguet has protected throughout the years, and we would soon find out why. While the brand is perhaps best known today for having introduced high-end sports watches into the modern era through the Royal Oak, it also boasts a proud timekeeping heritage. One of the people in charge of it is industry expert and Audemars Piguet’s historian Michael Friedman, who showed us some of the most historically important timepieces the brand has ever made. The museum holds some of the “rarest and most relevant watches” in the industry according to Mr. Friedman, including an example of the brand’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch. Made in three examples in 1955 and six examples in 1957, “it was the first wristwatch made in a series to feature perpetual calendar with leap year indication,” explained Mr. Friedman. A definitive step forward, which placed the brand in front of most. Besides it, a triple calendar chronograph with phases of the moon, a watch that is unique because it “pre-dates reference numbers.” Made in 1941 from a block of 18-carat yellow gold, it is one very few examples containing the complication, that is known to have survived. Luckily, Audemars Piguet’s library holds information of every timepiece ever sold, including the date and reference number. Even today, Audemars Piguet continues the bookkeeping tradition, and if you’re a collector, your name could be in ink somewhere on the shelves in Le Brassus. That includes anyone who has bought one of the brand’s 2014 novelties. Watch enthusiasts are a difficult bunch to please,

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particularly when it comes to tinkering with one of their favorite designs. But this year, the independent brand made the perfect homage for its icon, the Royal Oak Offshore. Instead of introducing a radical redesign, Audemars Piguet made subtle changes to the new collection, re-sizing the crown, pushpieces and guards, and replacing the black rubber used for the pushpieces and crown with ceramic. The numerals were made more pronounced, and the sub-dials are now framed with polished raised borders. Even the iconic “Méga Tappiserie” dial was enhanced with a sharper cut. Parallel to the new Offshore 42mm collection, Audemars Piguet released the equally impressive Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph,

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in platinum. While the manufacture conservatively calls this timepiece a “sophisticated chronograph,” it’s nothing but exceptional. This chrono-tourbillon is housed in a solid 950 platinum case and features a wealth of opulent detailing. It features an openworked dial at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, with a silver-toned counter, Arabic numerals and white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. Inside, it houses the Calibre 2933, a manually- wound movement made from 291 components, and boast a monster 10day power reserve. Of course, its price is also monstrous at $313,900.

Audemars Piguet’s “rarest watch,” the brand’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch.

The third model in Audemars Piguet’s winning ‘trifecta’ this year was the Royal Oak Tourbillon Concept GMT. The latest timepiece in the Concept collection features a 44mm titanium case with white ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces. Just like the manufacture’s previous Concept watches, the dial is open-worked, sending the eye directly to the tourbillon carriage, while a GMT time zone is displayed at 3 o’clock. The watch houses the Calibre 2930, a newly developed manually-wound movement which incorporates ceramic into the actual movement. Audemars Piguet’s chief artistic officer describes working on iconic pieces such as the Royal Oak or the Royal Oak Offshore, as a delicate balancing act. “Our role as designers is to curate the [Royal Oak] collection, giving it a contemporary design

View from Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet’s office.

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H A UTE M A N U F A CTU R E language while maintaining all the things that make it so recognizable,” said Garcia, who worked on the redesign of the indexes and hands for the 40th anniversary Royal Oak in 2012, “because contrary to Genta’s initial work I wanted the indexes and hands to have the same formal language as the case and the bracelet, so they are sharper.” Garcia had spoken to Genta many times about his designs and the vision he had for them, so he was very confident when it came time to tune “El Maestro’s” concept. But if the thread of the past continues to weave its way through the Manufacture, there’s a renewed sense of creativity behind the watchmakers’ benches. According to an Audemars Piguet source, the average age of a manufacture employee is approximately 28 years

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Fresh batch: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari.

old. That’s because a lot of the crafts aren’t taught in school, and many young talents join the manufacture instead of applying to university. The watchmaking industry is ever present in the lives of the Vallée de Joux. In many ways, it’s similar to what the auto industry is to Detroit. The only difference is the direction in which the industry is going. But it hasn’t always been this way. The industry suffered too, in the 1970s, during the ill-fated “Quartz Revolution.” Because of it, very few locals born in the 1980s grew up with the same aspirations as the generation before them. But since the industry is back and stronger than ever, there’s a big demand for young talent, and it’s a lucrative career option for gifted men and women. If Audemars Piguet is known as one of the oldest independent brands in the industry, youth has always been a defining character of the brand’s craftsmen. Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet were themselves just 24 and 22 years old when they founded the company in 1875.

Finished product: The 2012 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Concept GMT after assembly.

Even today, the company is led by the ever energetic François-Henry Bennahmias, and it’s hard to believe the CEO is turning 50 the same year he’s inviting Tinie HAUTETIME.COM 65

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Audemars Piguet’s 40th Anniversary Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon.

Tempah to the launch of the new Royal Oak Offshore collection. One thing is for sure: when you look at the talent on display in the manufacture, it certainly looks like Audemars Piguet’s future leaders are already in the family. At least, they can take the example of Giulio Papi, prodigy turned master, and now head of the brand’s think-tank. The Swiss watchmaker worked at Audemars Piguet’s skeletonization department before he and coworker Dominic Renaud decided to partner and create Renaud & Papi in 1986.

Audemars Piguet’s new Royal Oak Offshore Royal Blue. (Photo Credit: Alex Rose)

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Very quickly the pair established themselves as game changers by introducing new complications to a number of established brands, and in 1992, only six years after breaking away from Audemars Piguet, its former parent company bought a controlling stake in the think-tank. The only condition set by

Renaud and Papi was to keep working with other brands. That’s proved to be a sound decision, and it’s helped Audemars Piguet guide the rest of the industry. At the helm of APRP, Giulio Papi continues to oversee the development of high-end complications. The company’s director had one of the most unique pieces on his wrist during our visit, a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in steel with platinum bezel. While he admits to polishing the bracelet, Mr. Papi refuses to touch the bezel, saying the scratches are “part of its story.” The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon and the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in Platinum are part of “the daily grind,” for Mr. Papi. Parts for the latter are cut using CNC machines and then manually finished, with polished bevels, grained finishing on top and matte ‘brouillé’ finishing

H A UTE M A N U F A CTU R E underneath. The case is platinum, with a black ceramic bezel, while the crown and pushpieces are also ceramic. Today, APRP works hand in hand with Mr. Mille and his team towards the development of the brand’s most complicated and sophisticated movements, as well as parts such as the titanium skull for the RM 052 Tourbillon Skull or the tourbillon cage of the Richard Mille RM 38-01 G-Sensor Tourbillon Bubba Watson. Some might argue that Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille are direct competitors, but they are barking before danger. The way people are collecting nowadays, they most likely have watches from both brands. If they don’t have at least one of each, it’s definitely what they’re aiming for. Clearly, both brands are making the right moves, and that includes working together.

Richard Mille RM 52-01 Skull

AUDEMARS PIGUET BRINGS LE BRASSUS EXPERIENCE TO LOS ANGELES While the Audemars Piguet manufacture remains firmly in place in Le Brassus, the brand has been flying out some of its museum pieces to collectors worldwide. In October, Audemars Piguet hosted an exclusive master class at Westime Peninsula Beverly Hills. Haute Time invited 12 VIP collectors to experience a bit of Switzerland themselves, and test their crafting skills by taking apart and putting watches back together under the supervision of Technical Trainer, Gary Cruz.

Collectors test their craft with Audemars Piguet Technical Trainer Gary Cruz.

Collectors were also shown a dozen or so of the brand’s rarest watches from the Museum’s permanent collection, brought over for the first time from Switzerland just for the occasion. “Increasingly, we are looking to bring a little bit of Le Brassus experience to these classes, to show where the brand comes from,” said Michael Friedman. “As collectors now have the opportunity to discover the pieces, their interest increases, and I love seeing that.” Collectors added an Audemars Watchmaking Master Class Certificate, signed and sealed by Xavier Nolot, Audemars Piguet’s North America CEO, and Claudio Cavaliere, the Audemars Piguet global ambassador, to their watch collection.

Collectors receive their Audemars Piguet Watchmaking Master Class Certificate.

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ONE ON ONE

ZENITH

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

THE GRANDMASTER

ALDO MAGADA

TAKES OVER ZENITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK GARCIA

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he watch industry is one in which players make slow, calculated moves, and Jean-Claude Biver’s first as the new head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry division was to place Aldo Magada as president and CEO of Zenith. The appointment isn’t so surprising. The two men have been rubbing shoulders ever since their partnership saved Omega in the 1990s. Zenith’s throne is a “dream” position, said Aldo Magada, and one he’s been preparing for his entire career. After more than three decades in the industry, working with brands across the board, he tells us why he’s finally ready to cross paths with Jean-Claude Biver once more, and explains their shared vision for Zenith’s future.

ONE ON ONE

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ONE ON ONE Your arrival at Zenith was announced shortly after Jean-Claude Biver’s appointment as the head of the watches division at the LVMH group. The two of you have known each other very well since your days at Omega. How beneficial is this reunion for Zenith? I joined Jean-Claude Biver as vice president of marketing for product communication at Omega, and I’ve been close to him ever since. The way we work has never changed. He has always had that same entrepreneurial attitude, ever since he sold Blancpain to the Swatch Group Ltd. That was before he started working for Omega [also Swatch Group]. So I was working with a man who loved the brand and who wanted to put the brand back on the map. We shared that common goal, so working with Jean-Claude was incredible. Not only does he have the qualities of a gentleman, but his vision is also unique. He sees an issue in a way that most people can’t even imagine. He’s also a great partner to work with. He is always challenging you, and that for me proved to be great training before the upper echelon. After Omega, you worked closely with several brands such as Gucci, TechnoMarine, and Breitling. How did these experiences shape you, and what can you take from them into your new role at Zenith? After a first experience as Head of Watches at Gucci, I joined TechnoMarine. It was more as a consultant than as a member of the company. But for me it was the only way to see what it was like working with a startup. And with Reuge and Badollet, it was exactly the same kind of thing. The only problem was sometimes you have to work with people to finance a project and that was a painful experience. But it’s always an experience. It was interesting to see how you have to manage a small startup company to try to succeed because you don’t have the power that a Gucci, a Prada, or an Omega brand has. So it was interesting for me to look at another side of the business and it was the first time I was in control of the situation. You’ll be in control once more at Zenith, but this time, you will be backed by LVMH, another large group. That must be very exciting. Working for Zenith is a dream for anyone in this industry. It’s one of the very few true manufactures in Switzerland, and it’s a great brand. It’s still a small company but it has a lot of potential. As a manager, I’d have to say it’s interesting because it is still scaled at a human level. We have 270 people working in-house and another hundred outside. As a marketer it’s a great challenge to make sure that people can hear our message. The vision is that one-day, people will know about Zenith before the marketing campaigns even reach them. Now to work once more with Mr. Biver, I have to say, is another luxury for me. Of course, he’s more mature and I’m more mature, and we have also built a trusting and informal relationship today. And HAUTETIME.COM

ONE ON ONE it’s easier for me because I’m working with one of the most knowledgeable people in the industry. I’m very proud to be a part of LVMH. It’s an incredible shareholder to have because it is respectful of the brands, of course. LVMH wants real growth, not fictitious growth. When we need help, financial or otherwise, it’s definitely a plus to have the premier luxury financial group in the world by our side. Having settled into your new role, what are the objectives that you are setting for yourself and the brand? At a brand like Zenith, the CEO is serving the brand, and not the other way around. So the strategy that the brand currently has won’t be changing. Mr. Jean-Frédéric Dufour [Zenith’s former CEO] did a terrific job with the manufacture and did a terrific job restoring Zenith’s place on the market. But as a brand, we are now looking towards the next phase of our evolution. Because of my background in product development, I can really help the management community here to push the brand and the vision Jean-Claude Biver and I share. The backing of the group will of course allow us to move forward. Of course, we are talking about increasing the turnover; we are talking about the image of the brand, and brand awareness. But what’s the most important is customer satisfaction, and the many years that follow the purchase of a Zenith watch. I’m concentrating on maximizing this aspect of our service. If you were one of those customers, which models would you currently pick from Zenith’s collection, past or present? There are a lot of incredible watches in the Zenith collection of course, but the watch that stands out, apart from the Haute Horlogerie pieces such as the Christopher Columbus, has to be the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969. It’s the quintessential Zenith, because it combines the work of Thierry Nataf (another former Zenith CEO) with the modern twist that is the opening on the dial. And it has a great classical case, which was made by Mr. Dufour. It’s a great synthesis of what Zenith is about. Zenith is about movement; Zenith is about design; Zenith is about heritage. Besides having such a rich past to draw from, Zenith is also exploring new territory with contemporary partnerships with Felix Baumgartner, the Rolling Stones, and Russell Westbrook all featuring limited edition models in recent years. Will we see more of that in the future? We’ve always featured on the wrists of the adventurous, whether it be on Louis Blériot, the first person to cross the channel, or even Mr. Mohandas ‘Mahatma’ Gandhi, who also wore a Zenith. And we will definitely continue to do so. We are now looking for new possibilities with people who are defining the

4 future. We also continue to work with and celebrate the Stones because it’s important for us to be with someone such as the Rolling Stones. These guys are classic because they belong to the music history, but are definitely not traditional. And Zenith is exactly like that in regards to the history of watchmaking. And where do you see it in the future of that industry? Well, I cannot share specifics, but Zenith is the leader of the high-frequency chronograph. And I would like Zenith to be the number one destination for people who are looking for a mechanical watch priced between $6,000 to $20,000.

1. Aldo Magada 2. Aldo Magada and Russell Westbrook 3. Aldo Magada opening the boutique in Singapore 4.Zenith collection

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

BUILTTO LAST THE SECRETS BEHIND MINIATURE MECHANICS PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHING STYLED BY ONG WEISHENG SPECIAL THANKS TO SINGAPORE RAILWAYS PTE LTD / WWW.SINGRAILS.COM

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

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ROGER DUBUIS Pulsion Chronograph Black PVD Titanium $39,500 www.rogerdubuis.com

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AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in Forged Carbon $36,900 www.audemarspiguet.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

(Top) Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic $15,600 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

ZENITH

(Bottom) El Primero Stratos Spindrift in stainless steel with DLC coating $9,100 www.zenith-watches.com

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GIRARD-PERREGAUX Sea Hawk $13 ,900 www.girard-perregaux.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N HUBLOT

(Top) Big Bang Unico All Black $21,700 www.hublot.com

ULYSSE NARDIN

(Bottom) Black Sea / Blue Sea Marine Diver $9,900 www.ulysse-nardin.com

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IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance Ceramic $22,100 www.iwc.com

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CHOPARD L.U.C 8HF Power Control $20,820 www.us.chopard.com

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OMEGA (Top) Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition $7,700 www.omegawatches.com

BLANCPAIN (Bottom) L-Evolution R Chronographe Flyback A Rattrapante Grande Date $55,700 www.blancpain.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

AGAINST THE ELEMENTS

SUBTLE LINES MEET INTENSE DESIGNS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM CLAISE @ALMAKARINA AGENCY ART DIRECTION: KARINA RIKUN @ALMAKARINA AGENCY

Altiplano 900P $26,200 www.piaget.com

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Royal Oak Pink Gold $50,500 www.audemarspiguet.com

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Classic Fusion King Gold 8-Day Power Reserve $32,500 www.hublot.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

Tourbillon Carrousel $ 319,000 www.blancpain.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

HM3 MEGAWIND $92,000 www.mbandf.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

RM11 Lotus F1 Team Romain Grosjean $160,000 www.richardmille.com

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H1 Gold Blue Limited Edition $89,000 H1 Pink Gold Face Lift $84,000 www.hytwatches.com

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(Right) Malte Small Seconds $25,900 (Left) Overseas $34,500 www.vacheron-constantin.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

WINTER

CHILL TURN UP THE HEAT THIS SEASON WITH THESE BEJEWELED CANDIES PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHING STYLED BY ONG WEISHENG FLORAL ARRANGEMENT: BRENDA LEE MONTEIRO

CHANEL

J12 Moonphase Price Upon Request www.chanel.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

CARTIER (Top) Tank Anglaise Price Upon Request www.cartier.com

BLANCPAIN

(Bottom) Mouvement InversĂŠ Serti Neige Price Upon Request www.blancpain.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Cat´s Eye Haute Joaillerie $1,075,000 www.girard-perregaux.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N VACHERON CONSTANTIN

(Top) Traditionnelle High Jewellery $450,300 www.vacheron-constantin.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

(Bottom) Master Ultra Thin $46,000 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Alhambra Talisman Pavée Price Upon Request www.vancleefarpels.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

HARRY WINSTON

(Top) Avenue C Price Upon Request www.harrywinston.com

PATEK PHILIPPE

(Bottom) Twenty-4 Price Upon Request www.patek.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

CHOPARD

L´Heure du Diamant Price Upon Request us.chopard.com

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H A UTE F A S H I O N

AUDEMARS PIGUET

LadiesÂ´ Millenary Selfwinding $535,800 www.audemarspiguet.com

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DISPATCH FROM THE UK

www.hautetime.co.uk

DISPATCH FROM THE Since Haute Time has gone global, we´re bringing you a snapshot from our worldwide markets. Here, our local London-based editor Arthur Touchot recaps the United Kingdom´s hottest watch news. To see more from our UK team, visit www.hautetime.co.uk. HAUTETIME.COM

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

D I S P ATC H U K SALONQP DRAWS IN RECORD CROWD SalonQP 2014 attracted a record crowd, drawing more than 7,000 visitors to London’s Saatchi Gallery to see some of the world’s finest watches. As expected, the Salon had a British focus, with brands such as Struthers London and Bremont once again drawing local collectors. However, there was a continental flavor to the fair this year, as it showcased established maisons such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, and Piaget alongside independent brands HYT and MB&F which used the event to launch the HM6 ‘Space Pirate’ (see cover). And for the first time, SalonQP had the privilege of playing host to the winners of the 2014 Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Geneve, including the Urwerk EMC Black.

Urwerk’s EMC Black, winner of the 2014 Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Geneve Innovation Prize.

Opening ceremony of the SalonQP, in the presence of Carlo Lamprecht, President of the Foundation of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.

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D I S P ATC H U K

IWC PARTNERS WITH BRITISH FILM INSTITUTE

Emily Blunt attending the 2014 IWC Gala in London.

To celebrate the launch of its three-year partnership with the BFI (British Film Institute) and BFI London Film Festival, IWC Schaffhausen hosted a star-studded red carpet event in collaboration with American Express, in honour of the BFI in London. The event marks yet another demonstration of IWC’s ever increasing commitment to the world of filmmaking. It also provided the perfect platform to share IWC’s new Portofino Midsize collection with VIP guests present, including the brand’s latest ambassadors, film stars Emily Blunt and Christoph Waltz. The event, hosted by IWC CEO Georges Kern and BFI CEO Amanda Nevill, was presided over by Master of Ceremonies Rob Brydon, who ensured an effortlessly fluid evening of entertainment and comedy, the latter of which was a major theme of the night. A highlight of the evening was the presentation of the “Honorary Award in Recognition for Outstanding Contribution to Comedy” to British comic legends Julie Walters and Stephen Fry. HAUTETIME.COM

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Christoph Waltz and IWC CEO Georges Kern, presenting the new Midsize Portofino collection in London.

D I S P ATC H U K MOUNT STREET WELCOMES RICHARD MILLE Mount Street may not be the first destination that comes to mind when you think of buying watches in London, but thanks to Richard Mille, it’s quickly becoming a mandatory pit stop for those in town. The new address, at number 90, is the independent brand’s first boutique in London, and as they say, it’s all about location, location, location. “The London boutique is in a very elegant, chic area that is not overtly busy or constantly bustling in comparison to many of the other boutiques that are located on main thoroughfares and crowded shopping streets,” explained Richard Mille. “This makes the new location experience very intimate and personal.” The store houses the very best from the Richard Mille family, including several limited edition models such as a London exclusive RM 033, and the RM 029 All Grey, available across Richard Mille boutiques only.

Richard Mille puts the spotlight on boutique exclusive watches.

Richard Mille’s new storefront, on 90 Mount Street, in Mayfair.

The RM 029 All Grey takes center stage in the new boutique.

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D I S P ATC H U K JAEGER-LECOULTRE SOUND SCHOOL To celebrate the festive season, Jaeger-LeCoultre is bringing the essence of the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux to the iconic Fine Watch Room of Harrods in London. The Manufacture has created and produced over 200 different calibres equipped with repeater mechanisms, making this one of its favourite themes in watchmaking. Jaeger-LeCoultre revealed the varying melodies, unfailing reliability, precision and the purest possible sound from some of its most iconic minute repeaters. Watch aficionados will also be offered the unique opportunity to test their Minute Repeater timepieces, with a special “Sound Box” used by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The exhibition will run until January 14, 2015.

Jaeger-LeCoultre making music at Salon QP.

One of the manufacture’s 200 minute repeating calibers.

BLANCPAIN OPENS TWO STORES IN CAPITAL With over 30 boutiques worldwide, Blancpain continues to develop its network of innovative own-name destinations with the opening of two new locations on New Bond Street and in Harrods. Both boutiques offer visitors the perfect opportunity to experience the world of Blancpain and iconic creations—from the Villeret to the Fifty Fathoms—along with models developed exclusively for each boutiques. Blancpain’s newest flagship boutique is located at London’s most prestigious retail addresses, New Bond Street, and boasts an area of more than 43 spare metres. The two-level destination provides guests with a traditional shopping area on the ground floor and exclusive lounge and a bar on the first floor, where they can enjoy a personalized experience and receive advice from expert staff in peaceful refinement.

New Bond Street and Harrods added to brand’s portfolio. HAUTETIME.COM

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Blancpain breaks new ground in London.

D I S P ATC H U K

Panerai GPF 2/56 “L’Egiziano” (left).

Vintage Panerai Depth Gauge.

HARRODS CELEBRATES RICH PANERAI HISTORY Harrods hosted a vintage Panerai exhibition this September, which offered collectors the unique chance to view historic timepieces and instruments usually not accessible to the public. The collection featured models created between the 1930s and 1990s, including a spectacular and rare Panerai GPF 2/56 called “L’Egiziano”. Because it was made specifically for the Egyptian Navy, the Radiomir-dialed watch contains the Angelus 8 Days movement. The watch measures 60mm and, except for the movement, was made by Panerai circa 1958. This is one of three produced for the High Command of Egyptian Navy, with eight gold points in the massive bezel. A rare Panerai 3646 “California dial,” dating from circa 1941, was also on display. This timepiece measures 47mm in diameter and houses the Rolex 618 calibre with 17 jewels. It was used by the Italian Navy in WWII.

Rare Panerai 3646 “California dial”.

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DISPATCH FROM THE UAE

www.hautetime.ae

DISPATCH FROM THE Since Haute Time has gone global, we´re bringing you a snapshot from our worldwide markets. Here, our local Dubai-based editor Rebecca Anne Proctor recaps the United Arab Emirates´ hottest watch news. To see more from our UAE team, visit www.hautetime.ae. HAUTETIME.COM

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BY REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR

UAE

D I S P ATC H U A E BAUME ET MERCIER LAUNCH THE PROMESSE COLLECTION Held from November 4 to 6, at the Rira Gallery in Dubai’s International Financial Center (DIFC), Swiss watch brand Baume et Mercier launched its Promesse collection through an elegant exhibition showcasing its heritage. The brand marked the collection by collaborating with its UAE agent, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, and the Dubai Culture & Arts Authority (Dubai Culture). Taking place over three days, the exhibition was linked to the concept of locking one´s promises.

Mr. and Mrs. Mohamed Seddiqi.

ROGER DUBUIS HOSTS AN EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW OF THE “TIME FOR CHANGE” INITIATIVE AT ITS EMIRATES TOWERS BOUTIQUE

A view of guests during the event at the Roger Dubuis boutique at the Emirates Towers.

Roger Dubuis invited elite Emirates Skywards members to an exclusive preview of the “Time for Change” initiative, a collaboration between the Swiss luxury brand and the Emirates Foundation. The invitees were shown a film on the ‘Time for Change’ and its objectives, followed by a presentation of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, which is up for auction as part of the mission.

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D I S P ATC H U A E

Views of the exhibition featuring Elizabeth Taylor’s magnificent collection of Bulgari jewelry at Cuadro Fine Art Gallery.

BVLGARI HOSTS ELIZABETH TAYLOR JEWELRY EXHIBITION On November 6, Elizabeth Taylor’s magnificent collection of Bulgari jewelry was displayed for the first time in the Middle East. Taking place at Cuadro Fine Art Gallery in Dubai, the event was held in partnership with Dubai Design District (d3) and celebrated Bulgari’s 130-year anniversary as well as the legendary Hollywood actress. Displayed amidst a chic ambiance were exquisite jewelry pieces worn by Mrs. Taylor throughout her career. HAUTETIME.COM

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Views of the exhibition featuring Elizabeth Taylor’s magnificent collection of Bulgari jewelry at Cuadro Fine Art Gallery.

D I S P ATC H U A E HUBLOT LAUNCHES WATCH POP-UP STORE AND FERRARI F1 RACING SIMULATOR AT THE DUBAI MALL

Guests try out the Hublot simulator.

A first for Dubai and Hublot, the Swiss luxury watchmaker showcased different facets of the art of fusion in watchmaking in an exhibition held from October 1 to 14, in the Atrium at the Dubai Mall. As the Official Timekeeper of Ferrari worldwide, Hublot also brought the Ferrari F1 racing simulator, which provided a fully-immersive experience to guests during the exhibition. Equipped with HD graphics displayed onto a wraparound curved screen and accompanied by 3D effects, the ride transported drivers onto the track, making them feel as if they were truly behind the wheel of a bona fide race car.

A view of the exhibition in the Grand Atrium of the Dubai Mall.

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CHRISTIE’S DUBAI WATCH SALE ACHIEVES A RECORD TOTAL OF $ 3,316,625

Harry Winston’s Histoire de Tourbillon No.1

Held October 22nd in Dubai at Jumeirah Emirates Towers, the Christie’s watch sale made a record total of $3,316,625 with 152 lots, the largest ever held in this category in the Middle East. The top lot of the evening was Harry Winston’s Histoire de Tourbillon No. 1, launched in 2009 and crafted with 88 components, which sold for $293,000. Other highlights included a rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual DayDate Model set in 18-carat gold with diamonds and rubies with sweep centre seconds, day, date and bracelet, which sold for a hammer price of $35,000—up from a high estimate of $30,000. A stunning lady’s high jewelry watch by Audemars Piguet in 18-carat gold and a diamondset watch made in circa 1997, sold for a hammer price of $70,000—its high estimate. A striking fine platinum and titanium Hublot watch with diamonds and black diamond-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with date sold for a hammer price of $24,000, just under its high estimate of $25,000. The last lot of the sale was a F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu BYBLOS offered by Mr. Claude Sfeir to benefit the Rashid Centre for Disabled in Dubai, which sold for $120,000. “There was global participation in our sales this week, consolidating Dubai’s position as one of Christie’s major global selling centers,” said Michael Jeha, managing director for Christie’s in the Middle East. Bids were received online from around the world including Macau, Taiwan, the USA, the UK and China. This season’s sales were record-breaking, generating the highest volume of bids in the history of the firm. HAUTETIME.COM

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F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu BYBLOS

D I S P ATC H U A E IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN AND ADRIANA LIMA CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF THE PORTOFINO MIDSIZE COLLECTION IN DUBAI WITH A LADIES-ONLY DINNER On October 17th, Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, and brand director Karoline Huber, hosted the brand’s first-ever LadiesOnly Fashion Dinner to celebrate the launch of the Portofino Midsize Collection. Besides the brand’s friends and ambassadors Adriana Lima and Raya Abirached, an exclusive circle of female guests viewed the “Timeless Portofino” exhibition, which was directed and shot by renowned photographer Peter Lindbergh. Following the opening of the exhibition, the guests enjoyed a fashion show featuring the latest spring/summer Resort 2015 collection by young Lebanese designer Hussein Bazaza at the Salsali Private Museum.

Adriana Lima and Georges Kern

Diala Makki

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FEATURE

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

TOP 5 WATCHES AND WONDERS Watches & Wonders opened its doors for only the second time, but the young watch fair is already creating a new dynamic in the industry, turning a destination for Swiss watches into a hub of new releases. Last year, the fair created specifically for the region by the Exhibiting Committee of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), welcomed more than 16,000 visitors from all over Asia. But this year, it drew visitors all the way from Europe as exhibiting brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;13 to be exact, mostly from Richemontâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;were unveiling novelties on a global scale. Here are the five watches that received the most notice. HAUTETIME.COM

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F EATU R E

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GRANDE COMPLICATION T

his limited-edition timepiece represents the craftsmanship, design and style that JaegerLeCoultre is known for, and joins together three complicationsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon, and a zodiacal calendar. It is the only high-end watch to use a flying tourbillon in order to indicate sidereal time, via three discs. And it reproduces the movements of the Earth relative to the Sun and stars, while the guillochĂŠ dial represents a sky chart and zodiacal map. The watch is powered by the JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 945 hand-wound movement, which boasts a 48-hour power reserve. The white gold case is 46.7mm and is adorned with 294 diamonds and 64 sapphires. The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap and white gold buckle and is part of a limited edition collection of eight pieces in white gold offered by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELFWINDING TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH HAUTETIME.COM

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ost of the features in the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph will be familiar to Audemars Piguet connoisseurs, from the model’s eight trademark polished steel screws on the bezel, to the ‘Méga Tapisserie’ motif on the dial. In fact, the new timepiece is the latest evolution of the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, introduced in 2010. Of course, it also introduces features of the brand that are less systematic, such as a semi-skeletonized dial, which exposes a large gear at one o’clock, and a blackened titanium bridge for the tourbillon. The powerful case middle is constructed from forged carbon, giving it the sportiest and most rugged look of the year. Inside, it houses the Calibre 2897 movement, created entirely in-house by Audemars Piguet. Limited to 50 pieces at $273,200.

F EATU R E

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE WORLD TIME COLLECTION EXCELLENCE PLATINE T

wo years ago, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Patrimony Traditonnelle World Time, an incredible watch featuring a single-crown worldtimer that shows every single timezone on the planet, in addition to the half and quarter hour timezones. The piece was received to critical acclaim, and quickly became one of the most desirable watches in the brand’s line-up. This year, the brand decided to revisit the timepiece and fit it with a new 950 platinum case. And it has a tiny “Pt 950” hallmark in between 4 and 5 o’clock on the dial, to remind us of that feature. This is part of a recent effort from the brand to select the very best pieces in its collection, and dress them in platinum cases, dials, hands, crowns, pushers, buckles, and even platinum stitching in their straps. Limited to just 100 numbered pieces, each for $111,000.

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MONTBLANC METAMORPHOSIS II M

ontblanc introduced the first Metamorphosis watch at SIHH in 2010, and it shocked watch enthusiasts with its transforming faces. According to the brand, the team went back to work t immediately after the company realized the success of the original design, and the second chapter is finally here four years later. Unlike the original’s sporty veneer, the Metamorphosis II boasts a classic robe. The case features polished 18-K rose gold with curved and hooded lugs. Like its predecessor, it’s a regulator, meaning there’s a central minute hand and running seconds at the top of the dial, and at the 12 o’ clock mark there’s an hour subdial. But its face changes drastically when a slide at 10 o’clock activates the “metamorphosis” of the watch. At this point, two mechanical curtains retract into the case to reveal a second function. The first face shows the time of the day, while the second face displays a chronograph subdial. It’s another great piece from a brand that continues to surprise watch collectors, and gain recognition from the industry. Limited to 18 pieces, $340,000 each.

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RICHARD MILLE RM 56-02 TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE

ichard Mille’s Sapphire watches have been incredibly popular, especially in Asia, so it wasn’t surprising to learn that the latest design, the RM 56-02 Tourbillon Sapphire, was made expressly for the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong. Richard Mille’s engineers have revisited the design of the winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire to make this model even more transparent than in previous editions. But this time, the biggest talking point will be the new movement. The tripartite case of the RM 56-02 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by the prestigious and highly specialized experts at Stettler Sapphire in Lyss, Switzerland. Creating ergonomicallycurving tripartite cases was a massive challenge, and once again shows Richard Mille’s determination in using high-tech materials in his watches. The RM 56-02 will be released in a limited edition of 10 examples worldwide, and is rumored to cost $2,020,000.

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WORN BY WOMEN

PRETTY WOMAN PLAYING WITH BOYS´ TOYS BY GINA FUSCO PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARION MAY

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS CHRONOGRAPH

oday, Vacheron Constantin has quite a selection of offerings for women, from the Malte Collection to the Traditionelle, to name a few. But Vacheron Constantin’s UK communications manager, Laura de’ Castiglioni, prefers wearing a men’s timepiece: The stunning Overseas Chronograph, to be precise.

“I like a watch with a complication,” admitted de’ Castiglioni, arguing that timepieces must showcase mechanical prowess. Maria Santillana, the marketing manager of Audemars Piguet in London, certainly agrees. One of the reasons women turn to men’s watches, explains Maria, is the opportunity to own a timepiece that was created with specific design codes in mind, instead of one that was adapted for them.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF. 15450

nd when it comes to iconic designs, you don’t get many better than Gerald Genta’s octagon-shaped Royal Oak, which gave the 20th century the first high-end sports watch. Audemars Piguet has introduced several iterations of the Royal Oak since it debuted in 1972, including Royal Oaks for women, but Maria’s model of choice is the Royal Oak Ref. 15450, launched at SIHH two years ago.

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RICHARD MILLE RM 023

nother independent brand women love is Richard Mille. Over the last decade Richard Mille has brought a contemporary and very sophisticated f lavor to the industry. Appealing to men a nd women a like w ith its color f u l pieces, array of materials ranging from gold to carbon-nanofiber and of course, the revolutionary movements, Richard Mille timepieces—including this stunning R M 023 —look fabulous on the wrist. The rose gold case is the perfect addition to any woman’s wrist, highlighting the piece’s details while adding some softness and warmth to the R M 023 .

A LANGE & SÖHNE LANGE 1

or the purists, look no further than the new rose gold A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Redesigned to house a larger dial layout, the case diameter was increased slightly from the previous Lange 1. But designers also reduced the width of the case, creating a more slender silhouette to fit any size wrist, and it means the Lange 1 becomes the perfect timepiece for the fairer sex.

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W O R L D T I M E WAT C H E S : : H A U T E T I M E

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OVER TIME

HUBLOT

BY ARTHUR TOUCHOT

5 MINUTES WITH USAIN BOLT 9.58 s Haute Time met the Jamaican sprinter during the presentation of the new Hublot Big Bang Unico All Black collection, available exclusively trough the brand´s boutiques. We sat down with the 100 m record breaker to talk about his watches, his training and his current goals. Where does your passion for watches come from? And how did you and Hublot first get in touch? When they approached me at the initial stage, and asked me to be their ambassador, I was like “Ok cool!” So I check it out because I was never a huge fan of watches. When I was younger I used to buy a lot of cars every year. Right now it’s mostly shirts and video games. But after I spoke to Hublot I started taking notes on watches. For me Hublot is a prestige brand. Over the years, I’ve heard so much about them, and I started listening and talking to people, especially my friends who are really into watches. So over the years I really got into watches, and it was wonderful starting out with Hublot. In 2012, Hublot unveiled the Hublot King Power Usain Bolt, to celebrate your partnership. Have you had a chance to go visit the manufacture’s workshops in Nyon and see how the watches are made? I’ve been to the factory and I’ve seen the people working on the watches to learn how they do it, and it’s very technical. It’s hard! Creating these watches by hand, it’s just ridiculous because these watches are so detailed. I’ve tried and I’m not good. But I’ve seen all they’ve gone though to get to this point. It’s like me training hard, for a finished product that you get to see on the track. HAUTETIME.COM

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HUBLOT KING POWER USAIN BOLT LIMITED EDITION 250 PIECES

You aren’t the only sprinter with a watch. Yohan Blake also has a Richard Mille made after him. Do the two of you ever get the chance to talk about your watches during meetings? I don’t run with the watch. You don’t want to damage it. But yeah, definitely, we do banter a little bit about watches. We do have a good time talking about it for sure. I remember actually, during the medals ceremony [at the 2012 Olympics] in London, I put my King Power Usain Bolt on, and was told I couldn’t do that. “But I want to look good,” I said. “You can’t tell me to leave my watch off.” In the end I wore it! Your world is about fractions of a second. How do you go about shaving them off? Working with coaches is what makes the difference. We sit down, analyze the race, and break it down to figure out where and what we need to improve, and then it’s all about me going about it. It takes time and it’s really technical. Sometimes you work so hard on one thing and it takes forever to get it right. But the key thing is consistency and to work on the small details. Other than breaking records and winning races, what gives you the greatest pleasure today? I live to inspire. I get a lot of messages through social media and Instagram from kids saying: “You inspire me,” and it feels good to know that because when I was growing up I looked up to Michael Johnson and all these guys. So to inspire kids today, it feels so good. I really appreciate it.

H A UTE A UTO

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Marine Diver BOUTIQUES

Self-winding movement. Water-resistant to 300m. 18 ct rose gold case. Also available in stainless steel. U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

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