16 minute read
Orchid in cosmetics Vinay Kumar Singh
from HPIC March 2020
Orchid in cosmetics
The orchid is a flower that is well known for its beauty and fragrance. These highly decorated flowers are acknowledged as a symbol of beauty, refinement and love. Often utilised in perfumes and fragrance products, the use of orchids has branched out into skin care, hair care and even colour cosmetics as the demand for natural ingredients is constantly increasing.
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Orchis mascula is native from Europe to Asia Minor. It is well known in Ayurvedic phyto-therapy and it was the basis of creams with emollient effect and it may have a slight activity against infection. Orchis mascula contains anthocyanis that give the pinkish colour of the flowers and mucilage.
Fragrances for both genders often have notes of orchid. It has been used in Asia for centuries, mostly for its reparative and protective properties. However, the use of orchid extract and orchid complex in these categories has become more popular in the United States only in recent years, according to Mintel Cosmetic Research. Orchids are now being touted for moisturizing, fighting free radicals, increasing skin immunity and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
The family of orchids (Orchidaceae) grows nearly everywhere in the world. Those special plants have existed on the planet for around 120-mn years! Orchids are not only beautiful; they are also masters in the art of survival and can become over 100 years old. They symbolize a blooming, beautiful and ageless life and are often called ‘the queen of flowers’.
In Europe, orchids are primarily known for their value as ornamental plants. However, they often serve a higher purpose in other parts of the
36 world – as a perfume, as a food and for making tea or tobacco.
Active ingredients
All kinds of orchids have the ability to store great amounts of water and they are rich in natural polysaccharides and antioxidant phenols. This impressive natural combination of active ingredients makes orchids very attractive for luxurious cosmetic products. Orchid extract stimulates skin cell vitality and supports the cellular metabolism. It promotes the ability of cells to regenerate, strengthens the cell membrane and protects the skin’s immune system.
Very common throughout Europe, the spotted orchid, Orchis maculata, can be found growing in a variety of habitats from woodlands and meadows to marshes and alongside lakes and rivers. The abundance of spotted orchids was advantageous, since they were held in great repute in herbal medicine, being largely employed as a strengthening and soothing agent. As a matter of fact, extracts of Orchis maculata were still prescribed in Europe at the beginning of the nineteenth century as a treatment for tuberculosis.
Spotted orchids have tuberous roots full of a highly nutritious starchlike substance called Bassorin. The roots are dried and ground into a fine yellowish-white powder that is made into a drink called salep. Known for its nutritive, expectorant and astringent properties, salep originated in the Middle East, India and parts of China. It has been used as a very nutritious diet for children and convalescents; one ounce of salep is said to be enough to sustain a person for a day. For this reason, it was particularly popular in Europe during the Middle Ages until the beginning of the twentieth century when its popularity faded.
Phytochemicals present
Spotted orchids, so named because of the characteristic colouring of its leaves, contain orchicyanin I, orchicyanin II and cyanin, all of which belong to a group of plant pigments called anthocyanins. These anthocyanins are part of the plant’s protective mechanism as anthocyanins are synthesized in response to environmental stressors such as UV radiation, temperature extremes, drought, disease and pollution.
Anthocyanins are also part of a larger group of phytochemicals called flavonoids, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities. Certain flavonoids including anthocyanin pigments have reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging abilities up to four times greater than vitamins E and C. Because of its antioxidative and astringent properties, orchids may help increase tone, while minimizing oxidative stress and delivering a soothing aesthetic.
range of skin care has orchid extract. Researchers at Guerlain discovered that the orchid’s beauty and ‘eternal youth’ could be traced to the cells found deep within its roots; thus they worked to reproduce the same functionality.
Skin and hair care applications Spotted orchid extract is useful in skin and hair care applications where formulators are interested in capitalising on the trend for natural botanicals that deliver functional benefits. They are not only beautiful, but apparently they are known to reduce the look of ine lines and wrinkles, act as an antioxidant and hume tant that moisturizes, soothes and conditions our skin. In fact, it is one of skincare’s latest beauty secrets. Helping women of all ages restore and maintain a bright and radiant complexion, orchid extract works to achieve smooth and flawless skin tone.
Benefits of orchid extracts are many as: It contains minerals that exist naturally in the skin, such as calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and zinc that help nourish skin. It counteracts the signs of aging, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving the skin’s overall appearance. It helps regulate skin pigmentation, allowing natural coloration. It increases cell production improving skin’s strength, smoothness, and elasticity.
Product launches
Many products have been launched having orchid extract. Porcelain, The Face Spa has launched a new addition to its exclusive and proprietary Revive range with a pre-cleaner that also double up as a makeup cleanser. Enriched with orchid extracts, the cleanser possesses a subtle floral scent. Its high concentration of skin-nourishing ingredients helps provide anti-oxidation and skin conditioning. On top of that, it is paraben-free and sulphatefree, ensuring suitability for daily use, even on the most sensitive skin. The ultra-gentle cleanser is ideal as a first-step cleansing solution for frequent makeup users, as it loosens impurities in the skin, allowing it to breathe, whilst providing deep hydration at the same time.
Perhaps one of the most publicized cosmetic products featuring orchid is Cargo PlantLove Botanical Lipstick. The lipstick features a botanical formulation with orchid complex and meadowfoam seed oil.
In Japan, orchid extract is used in several highly visible skin care lines. The Kanebo Twany line features orchid extract in many of its whitening products. Kosè Infinity launched several brightening and anti-ageing products containing orchid extract.
Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Ted Gibson hair care products also contain orchid extract. The Ted Gibson shampoos, conditioners, serums, and hair sheets all feature orchid extract. The orchid extract is said to help repair damaged hair, prevent moisture loss and promote health and manageability. The Goodnite Replenish Hair Repair Serum claims to use wild orchid extract to sooth the senses and the scalp.
Orchid oil makes it’s hair-helping debut in White Sands’ Orchid Bliss Shampoo and Conditioner. The company found that orchid oil has serious hair benefits; it’s majorly light, but yet effective enough to hydrate even the most damaged ones.
The super-creamy but totally not greasy St. Ives Naturally Indulgent Coconut Milk & Orchid Extract Body Lotion absorbs quickly, leaves skin super soft and smells fresh ocean air with a hint of exotic orchids and coconut.
Conclusions
Rose, jasmine, violet and lily are often incorporated into beauty products. While orchids don’t tend to have a distinctive fragrance, these stunning blooms are now also being tapped for a whole host of new skin care, haircare & colour cosmetics formulas.
VINAY KUMAR SINGH Vice President-R&D Ganesha Personal Care Products Pvt. Ltd. Navi Mumbai E-mail: vinay@gpcppl.com
CLEANER & GREENER
Clariant, one of the leading suppliers of ingredients for the industrial and home care cleaning segment, has combined best in class fibre protection against dirt, with sustainability benefits, in its new soil release polymer for laundry detergents.
The company said it will soon launch TexCare SRN 260 Life, which is “bio-based, unlike other soil release polymers in the laundry detergent segment which are synthetically sourced, and has an 80% Renewable Carbon Index (RCI), making it more sustainable than any other soil release polymer used in liquid detergents and cleaners”.
“This latest addition to our TexCare range gives the producers of laundry liquid detergents, particularly green-oriented brands, a unique soil release polymer,” said Clariant’s Head of Strategic Marketing and Innovation, Mr. Ralf Zerrer. “With its carbon and bio-based credentials, we developed TexCare SRN 260 Life to meet the growing consumer demand for more environment-friendly products. Indeed, recent forecasts expect the ‘green’ segment of the industrial & home care sector to grow by 6.5% until at least 2024,” he added. In laboratory tests conducted by Clariant, fabrics washed with this polymer came out up to “six times cleaner than those washed with detergent only”. TexCare SRN 260 Life also prevented the redeposition of dirt during washing, which is the main culprit for greying, almost two times better than a standard detergent alone, the company added.
SKIN CARE
Peptide-based active ingredient for skin
Croda subsidiary, Sederma, has launched Synchrolife, a peptidebased active ingredient, which helps resynchronise cellular life to uplift skin beauty and wellbeing.
The benefits offered by the ingredient includes realigning circadian rhythms, counteracting effects of digital pollution, erasing signs of fatigue and delivering neuro-beauty benefits.
According to Sederma, the ingredient has been demonstrated to rebalance the production of circadian key players after a blue light stress to ensure better repairing metabolism. “By resynchronising biological
T0 T2 months
rhythms, Synchrolife counteracts the harmful effects of digital pollution that generate stressing signs of fatigue and premature ageing and allows feeling more beautiful. Its natural origin content according to the ISO 16128 standard is 99.905%,” the company stated.
NATURAL COSMETIC INGREDIENT
Tackling digital stress on skin
Givaudan’s cosmetics unit, Active Beauty, has launched Synchronight, a natural active cosmetic ingredient targeting the effects of “digital” stress on skin.
This new ingredient is derived from an extract of dried fruit of gardenia, sourced from the Guangxi region, in China. Acting as a natural shield, it prevents the blue light emitted by screens from disrupting the skin’s melatonin production cycle.
The ingredient acts as a shield against external aggressions linked to today’s digital lifestyles, allowing skin melatonin to play its natural role in regulating the sleep-wake cycle. Synchronight, which is activated by the microbiome, stimulates skin rejuvenation and preserves the natural skin melatonin release cycle, resulting in younger skin and better sleep, Givaudan said in a statement.
Developed at the company’s ‘Green Fractionation Centre of Excellence’ in Avignon, France, the new innovation is targeted at “consumers who are searching for new ways to improve their lives with beauty products adapted to their digital lifestyles”. The active ingredient is obtained using the NaDES technology patented by Naturex (a company which is now part of Givaudan) that allows the extraction of some phytochemicals that are not always fully soluble in lipid or water phases.
Synchronight will be launched in the form of a night cream called, “My Blue Guard High Performance” that features DreamScentz, a fragrance technology aimed to enhance the sleep experience. Other potential applications include anti-aging serums and creams, night creams, well-being products, skincare for younger age groups and cosmetics to preserve from modern lifestyle damages, the company noted.
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DATES CHANGED
Leading personal care events around the world postponed due to coronavirus outbreak
The Covid-19 outbreak is continuing to turn the global calendar of international events upside down and the personal & home care industry is no exception. Leading global events in this sector which have been postponed include HPIC India, ISDC 2020, In-cosmetics Global, World Perfumery Congress (WPC), Cosmoprof and PCHi China.
The 5 th
edition of ‘HPIC India’ – the leading trade fair featuring companies dealing in ingredients for home, personal & institutional care sectors, and co-located with the fine and speciality chemicals expo, Chemspec India, scheduled for April 16-17, 2020, was postponed by the organisers. The expo – and other co-located events – will now take place on August 19-20, 2020 at the same venue in Mumbai.
“The uncertainties emerging out of the worldwide spread of the corona virus has created a situation where we felt we would not be in a position to deliver the quality show that our clients have come to expect,” Mr. Vijay Raghavan, Director, Chemspec India Pvt. Ltd., the organiser of the events, said in a press statement.
Meanwhile, the 6th International Convention and Exhibition on Soaps Detergents and Cosmetics (ISDC 2020), originally scheduled to be held in July in Goa was postponed to 6-8 September 2020. According to a statement from the organiser, Indian Home & Personal Care Industry Association (IHPCIA), the decision was taken in “light of recent developments with the COVID-19 virus and the widespread concern for the travel restrictions imposed on specific countries
40 and by companies”. The venue and location for the convention remain unchanged.
The organiser of the leading personal care ingredients exhibition, Incosmetics Global, Reed Exhibitions, put out a statement informing about the postponement of the event originally scheduled to take place from 31 March to 2 April 2020 in Barcelona (Spain) to 30 June to 2 July 2020 “following the escalation of Covid-19 in Europe”.
Speaking about the announcement, Ms. Cathy Laporte, Portfolio Director at Reed Exhibitions, said, “After many weeks monitoring the evolving situation around COVID-19 and the notices issued by the World Health Organisation and other relevant governments and local authorities, and in close coordination with all partners involved, we have postponed the event to June.”
The organisers of the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) – Perfumer & Flavorist and the American Society of Perfumers – announced its decision to postpone the event to December 15-17, 2020. The event was originally scheduled to be held from June 2-4, 2020 in Miami Florida, USA. “This has been a difficult and unprecedented decision for a difficult and unprecedented moment. Postponing the 2020 WPC will allow us to regroup and deliver the safe environment and top-notch fragrance event our industry deserves,” they said.
Following news of rising Covid-19 cases in Northern Italy, BolognaFiere, the organiser of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna decided to postpone the event from March 12-15 to September 3-7, 2020. With more than 265,000 visitors and more than 3,000 exhibiting companies in 2019, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is one of the largest trade fairs for the global cosmetics industry. As reported earlier in these columns, the first event in the personal care sector to be postponed was the Chinese exhibition, Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi). The 13th edition of the trade fair, organised by Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE), was originally scheduled for 26-28 February 2020 in Shanghai but was postponed to 2-4 June 2020.
August 2020 INDIA
19-20 | Mumbai HPIC India 2020 HPIC India & MackBrooks Exhibitions : Rohit Pande : +91-9820224550 : Rohit@chemicalweekly.com : Hpicindiaexpo.com
INTERNATIONAL
May 2020
6-7 | Prague, Czech Republic 2-4 | Shanghai, China
September 2020
3-7 | Bologna, Italy
The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients Trade Show 2020 Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions : Shawn Liu : +86-10-8455-6635 : Shuangyang.Liu@reedsino pharm.com
17-18 | London, UK Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. : +39-02-796420 : Info@cosmoprof.it
: Www.cosmoprof.com/en/
28-30 | New York, USA
Sustainability & Naturals in Cosmetics Conference Smithers : Sally Bradley : +44-0-1372 802000 : Sbradley@smithers.com
: www.cosmeticsconferences.com/
June 2020
2-3 | London, UK Skin Microbiome Industry Summit Active Communications Europe Ltd. (ACI) : Rafael Krupa : +48-0-61-898-7070 : Rafael@acieu.net
30 June-2 July | Barcelona, Spain Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Ecovia Intelligence : 44-208-567-0788 : Info@sustainablecosmetics summit.com
: Www.sustainablecosmetics summit.com
December 2020
15-17 | Miami, Florida
7th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conferece Summit-Events : +020-7828-2278 : Eventteam@summit-events.com : Summit-events.com In-cosmetics Global Reed Exhibitions Ltd. : Rana Khoury : +44-0-20-8439-5436 : Rana.khoury@reedexpo.co.uk : In-cosmetics.com/global/ World Perfumery Congress 2020 Allured Business Media : Deniz Ataman : +630-344-6070 : Dataman@allured.com
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Industrial Chemicals CAS No. Grignard Reagents CAS No. Perfumery Chemicals CAS No. 6 Methyl Quinoline 91-62-3 6,8 Secondary Butyl Quinoline 65442-31-1 67634-06-4 2 Isobutyl Quinoline 93-19-6 6 Secondary Butyl Quinoline 65442-31-1 Veticone 7403-42-1 Vetacetate 68083-58-9 Green Acetal 1708-34-5 Ambrether 36306-87-3 Neo Greenal 4351-10-4 Neo Jasminoid 137-03-01 Oodinol 7070-15-7 Sweet Sandal Not Known Penta Sandal Not Known Perfumery Chemicals CAS No. Diphenyl Methane 101-81-5 Methyl Benzoate 93-58-3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 101-41-7 Fructone 6413-10-1 Amyl Vinyl Carbinol 3391-86-4 Amyl Vinyl Carbinyl Acetate 2442-10-6 Dimethyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol / Muguet Carbinol 103-05-9 Phenyl Ethyl Isoamyl Ether / Anther 56011-02-0 Benzyl Alcohol 100-51-6 Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether 3558-60-9 Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate 102-20-5 Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol 100-86-7 Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acetate 151-05-3 Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Butyrate 10094-34-5 Verdyl Acetate 54830-99-8
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