HPIC March 2020

Page 36

Special Article

Orchid in cosmetics The orchid is a flower that is well known for its beauty and fragrance. These highly decorated flowers are acknowledged as a symbol of beauty, refinement and love. Often utilised in perfumes and fragrance products, the use of orchids has branched out into skin care, hair care and even colour cosmetics as the demand for natural ingredients is constantly increasing.

extracts of Orchis maculata were still prescribed in Europe at the beginning of the nineteenth century as a treatment for tuberculosis.

Orchis mascula is native from Europe to Asia Minor. It is well known in Ayurvedic phyto-therapy and it was the basis of creams with emollient effect and it may have a slight activity against infection. Orchis mascula contains anthocyanis that give the pinkish colour of the flowers and mucilage. Fragrances for both genders often have notes of orchid. It has been used in Asia for centuries, mostly for its reparative and protective properties. However, the use of orchid extract and orchid complex in these categories has become more popular in the United States only in recent years, according to Mintel Cosmetic Research. Orchids are now being touted for moisturizing, fighting free radicals, increasing skin immunity and reducing the appearance of fine lines. The family of orchids (Orchidaceae) grows nearly everywhere in the world. Those special plants have existed on the planet for around 120-mn years! Orchids are not only beautiful; they are also masters in the art of survival and can become over 100 years old. They symbolize a blooming, beautiful and ageless life and are often called ‘the queen of flowers’. In Europe, orchids are primarily known for their value as ornamental plants. However, they often serve a higher purpose in other parts of the 36

world – as a perfume, as a food and for making tea or tobacco. Active ingredients All kinds of orchids have the ability to store great amounts of water and they are rich in natural polysaccharides and antioxidant phenols. This impressive natural combination of active ingredients makes orchids very attractive for luxurious cosmetic products. Orchid extract stimulates skin cell vitality and supports the cellular metabolism. It promotes the ability of cells to regenerate, strengthens the cell membrane and protects the skin’s immune system.

Spotted orchids have tuberous roots full of a highly nutritious starchlike substance called Bassorin. The roots are dried and ground into a fine yellowish-white powder that is made into a drink called salep. Known for its nutritive, expectorant and astringent properties, salep originated in the Middle East, India and parts of China. It has been used as a very nutritious diet for children and convalescents; one ounce of salep is said to be enough to sustain a person for a day. For this reason, it was particularly popular in Europe during the Middle Ages until the beginning of the twentieth century when its popularity faded. Phytochemicals present Spotted orchids, so named because of the characteristic colouring of its leaves, contain orchicyanin I, orchicyanin II and cyanin, all of which belong to a group of plant pigments called anthocyanins. These anthocyanins are part of the plant’s protective mechanism as anthocyanins are synthesized in response to environmental stressors such as UV radiation, temperature extremes, drought, disease and pollution.

Anthocyanins are also part of a larger group of phytochemicals called Very common throughout Europe, flavonoids, which are known for their the spotted orchid, Orchis maculata, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory can be found growing in a variety capabilities. Certain flavonoids includof habitats from woodlands and ing anthocyanin pigments have reacmeadows to marshes and alongside tive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging lakes and rivers. The abundance of abilities up to four times greater than spotted orchids was advantageous, vitamins E and C. Because of its since they were held in great repute antioxidative and astringent properties, in herbal medicine, being largely orchids may help increase tone, while employed as a strengthening and minimizing oxidative stress and soothing agent. As a matter of fact, delivering a soothing aesthetic. Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020


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