HPIC March 2020 by Ravi Raghavan

March 2020 Vol. 5 y No. 9

Annual Subscription: Rs. 600 Price per copy: Rs.50

March 2020 Vol. 5 l No. 9

Alkyl polyglucosides: Bio-based and biodegradable surfactants for home and personal care

Also in this issue

Managing lethargy in sensory evaluations Functional fragrance: Satisfying the needs of today's consumer base in new ways Orchid in cosmetics

Contents Editorial 7

Green surfactants for home and personal care: APGs to the fore

News – India

SEVAK PUBLICATIONS PVT. LTD. Corporate Office

FMCG companies ramp up capacities to meet demand for hygiene products

Cosmetics makers switch to hand sanitisers as demand rockets

Founding family puts Super Vasmol brand of hair colours on the block

ITC to ramp up new product rollouts amid slowdown

Hindustan Unilever losing market share in skin-cleansing category

News – International

602, 6th Floor, B-Wing, Godrej Coliseum, Behind Everard Nagar Off Eastern Express Highway K.J. Somaiya Hospital Road Sion (East) Mumbai - 400 022. Tel.: +91-22-24044472 / 73 / 77 Fax: +91-22-24044450 E-mail: corporate@chemicalweekly.com Website: www.hpicindia.com

Chennai Office

Firmenich to acquire French ingredients supplier, DRT

Henkel mulls selling underperforming consumer brands; in race for Coty unit

Firmenich achieves 100% renewable electricity at all its global operations

Unilever launches its first 100% recycled plastic toothbrush

CABB supplies precursors for hygiene and disinfection products

Soap & detergents to drive growth of global tall oil fatty acid market

Cover Story Alkyl polyglucosides: Bio-based and biodegradable surfactants for home and personal care

Special Articles 29

Managing lethargy in sensory evaluations – Dr. Sitaram Dixit

Functional fragrance: Satisfying the needs of today’s consumer base in new ways – Eddie Bulliqi 33 Orchid in cosmetics – Vinay Kumar Singh

New Market Launches

Expo & Conference News

Meetings & Conferences

Advertisers in this issue Aqua Proofers Pvt. Ltd.

Arjun Beeswax Industries

.. 44

Mehk Chemicals Pvt. Ltd.

.. 42

Chemet

.. 10

Rolex Lanolin Products Limited

.. 25

Chemspark India Pvt. Ltd.

Soofi Enterprises

.. 11

Galaxy Surfactants Ltd.

.. 19

Ultra International Ltd.

Indorama Ventures

.. 17

Vaaghani Inc.

Karnataka Aromas

Vimal LifeSciences Pvt. Ltd.

KK India Petroleum Specialities Pvt. Ltd. .. 43

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

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Japan Representative

MIJ Inc. Contact Person: Mr. Sadao Mizoguchi 2-23-29-704, Kugayama Suginami-ku, Tokyo 168-0082 Tel: +81-03-3331-2051 Fax: +81-03-5932-2051 E-mail: mijinc7@ybb.ne.jp

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Editorial SEVAK PUBLICATIONS PVT. LTD. Editor-Publisher R. Raghavan (ravi@hpicindia.com)

Administration/Circulation Vijay Raghavan (vijay@hpicindia.com)

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Deputy Editor Biju Pillai (Mumbai) (biju@hpicindia.com)

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Green surfactants for home and personal care: APGs to the fore Surfactants are an important category of products that find widespread use in home, personal and institutional care industries, amongst others. This is a mature product category as a whole, though some emerging markets, including India, are seeing above average growth in the range of 8-10% annually. A large chunk of the Indian surfactant market is accounted for by commodity surfactants, of petrochemical or oleochemical origin. This is the case elsewhere as well. But there is a growing niche of speciality surfactants that are touted by producers for the ‘green’ credentials which could stem from their properties (e.g., mildness), their origin (from bio-based raw materials) and fate in the environment (biodegradability). A surfactant that combines all of the three traits can be touted as truly ‘green’ but this needs to be quantified by rigorous life cycle analysis. As would be expected there are various shades of green. One such ‘green’ surfactant class are the alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), which are made by reacting sugars with fatty alcohols. While the former is natural in origin, the latter can be of oleochemical or petrochemical origin. APGs made purely from natural raw materials are thus possible and they are on offer by several producers, including a few in India. While APGs have been around for several decades now, they have not lived up to expectations – at least till now. There are, however, some who believe that their time has come, and sustainability concerns amongst consumers and brand-owners will drive greater demand in the years to come. Price is certainly a factor limiting their adoption in all but premium products, but that too will change as economies of scale bring more and more material into the market at affordable prices. Currently, about 140-kilotonnes of these surfactants (100% basis) are used in formulations serving the home and personal care industries, besides some smaller industrial use. Consumer testing of fragrances We also profile this month a feature on consumer testing of fragrances and how human behaviour – in particular fatigue – can distort the results obtained by panellists. As the article points out, some common sense approaches can help significantly in keeping fatigue at bay, ensuring that the evaluations are consistent and accurate. Covid-19 and the home & personal care industries As this issue reaches your hands, India and the rest of the world are grappling with the impacts of the pandemic caused by Covid-19 – the virus that originated in China, but is now widespread in most parts of the world. The home, personal and institutional care industries are a lot about hygiene, and this has come to be the most important weapon in the armoury of individuals, to keep sickness at bay. In India and abroad, several brand owners are now revamping their production lines to make the lowly hand sanitizer, but supply simply cannot catch up with soaring demand. Never before has the role of this industry been as widely recognised as now! The pandemic has disrupted businesses and limited operations, and many fear there is more to come in the weeks ahead. Several events related to our industry have been postponed. But things will get better; this pandemic has a natural cycle which will see infections rise, plateau and decline. The focus is currently on flattening this curve so that the medical infrastructure is not overwhelmed by a flood of sick patients. Time will heal! Thank you for reading.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

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D-Tryptophan Ginseng Root Extract Glycolic Acid Grape Seed Extract Green Tea Herbasol Extract PG (PF) Green Tea LC Herbasol Extract PG Guanidinium Carbonate Herbaglow NRG Herbamilk PF2 Herbaprotect NOX Herbashield URB (Caper Flower Buds+Mulberry+Rose Root) Herbaspheres Honey Extract COS (PF) Hydro-Gain Hydroxyacetone HP Jackfruit Herbasol Jojoba Oil W Kale (Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract) Kiwi Abrasive Lacto Pro L-Arginine L-Aspartic Acid Lecithins & Phospholipids L-Glutamic Acid L-Histidine Lipoid Cerasome 9041 Lipoid H 100 Lipoid Liposome 0041 Lipoid P 100 Lipoid P 45 Lipoid P 75 Lipoid P 75-3 Lipoid S 45 Lipoid S 75 Liquorice LC Herbasol Extract Glycerin L-Isoleucine L-Serine Matico (Buddleja Globosa Leaf Extract) Myrrh Herbasol Extract Nasturtium Herb Extract (Watercress Herbasol Extract) Natipide Eco Natural Abrasive Blend Natural AHA Complex Liquid Oats Herbasol Extract Octanoic Acid (Caprylic Acid)

O-Cyclohexylphenol HP Olive Oil W Passion Fruit Herbasol P-Cyclohexylphenol P-Cymene Pentylene Glycol Phospholipon 90 G Phytoderm Complex G PhytoSolve PO3G Polypropanediol Poly (2-Acryl-Amino-Tert-Butyl-Sulfonic Acid (ATBS)) Pomegranate Abrasive Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Propolis Extract N Rice VNGR Rooibos Herbasec MPE Royal Jelly Extract COS (SB) Saffron Herbasol Saskatoon Berry – Indian Pear Herbasol Extract Sebostat Herbasec MPE Shea Butter W Silica Micro Bead Sinapyl Acetate Hydroxyphenethyl Amide Skin Lipid Matrix Slimming Factor Karkade (PF) Sodium Benzoate Swiss Flower Honey Extract G (PF) Tague Abrasive Tea Tree Oil W Ultraspheres 8041 VAT – Reduct Vitamin Concentrate Oil-soluble Vitamin Concentrate Water-soluble Vitamin F Oil-soluble Vitamin F Water-soluble WeylCare HexaPB (1,2-Hexanediol) WeylCare OctaPB (Caprylyl Glycol) WeylCare PhenylPB (Phenylpropanol) Wheat Abrasive Wheat Herbaprotein Wheat Placenta COS (PF) Yoghurt Protein COS GBU Yoghurt Protein GBU Type Greek

PLEASE CONTACT WITH YOUR SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS

CHEMET

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Indian News TACKLING COVID-19

FMCG companies ramp up capacities to meet demand for hygiene products FMCG companies are ramping up production and distribution capabilities to ensure availability of hygiene products such as handwash and hand sanitisers on retail shelves to meet the massive spike in demand, as India begins reporting an increase in the number of coronavirus cases. Even as many regions in the country reported shortage of products such as hand sanitisers, key FMCG players stated they have adequate stocks available for such products. Mr. Sunil Kataria, CEO (India & SAARC), Godrej Consumer Products Ltd. said, “We have ramped up production of Protekt hand wash and sanitisers in our units as well as through our vendor partner units. We have also started a strong digital campaign on Godrej Protekt to create awareness about the regime of washing hands regularly as it helps in preventing spread of viruses.” A company spokesperson for Hindustan Unilever said the company has adequate stocks of hand sanitisers to meet the spike in demand.

of consumers on prevention of coronavirus.

“Given the surge in demand for hygiene products, we have redoubled our efforts to ensure consumers have access to products that keep them safe such as Lifebuoy hand sanitisers and hand wash. While certain pockets may witness a shortage due to sudden demand, overall, we have adequate stock of hand sanitisers and are geared to meet the increased demand,” the spokesperson added. Companies have also begun strategic campaigns to raise awareness about handwashing, at a time when the globe is battling with the virus outbreak. Companies are also stepping up targeted efforts on digital media platforms to address queries

Mr. Mukesh Mishra, Marketing Head-Healthcare, Dabur India Ltd. said, “Dabur is running a series of awareness campaigns across digital platforms, social Media and mainstream media to educate the public about how to keep themselves safe from Coronavirus. We are also organising Q&A sessions, particularly for mothers, with Ayurvedic doctors on digital media platforms to address their queries regarding corona virus and how to keep their families protected from it.” Mr. Philipe Haydon, CEO, The Himalaya Drug Company said, “We have taken specific measures to ensure that we are able to match up to this high demand of hand-washes and sanitisers. We are ramping up our production to match up to this country-wide demand. Alongside this, we have an awareness programme running across govt. schools in Karnataka to educate children on appropriate ways of washing hands and keeping infections away”.

Govt. invokes Disaster Management Act to ensure price regulation and availability of hand sanitisers The Ministry of Health and Family Welfare vide order dated 13th March, 2020 under clause (I) of sub-section (2) of section 10 of the Disaster Management Act, 2005, has mandated the National Pharmaceutical Pricing Authority (NPPA) to regulate the availability and prices of the surgical and 12

protective masks, hand sanitisers and gloves. Accordingly, NPPA vide order dated 13th March, 2020 has directed to all State/UT Governments, in public interest, to take necessary steps to ensure their sufficient availability of

at prices not exceeding the maximum retail prices (MRP) printed on the pack size. They have also been directed to monitor the production and distribution of the items by the manufacturers/importers, stockists and retailers and ensure hoarding, black marketing and profiteering does not happen.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Indian News GOING VIRAL

Cosmetics makers switch to hand sanitisers as demand rockets A slew of new sanitiser brands has hit the market with companies trying to capitalise on its skyrocketing demand as hand cleansing becomes a critical ritual in the face of the coronavirus threat. Before the crisis struck, there were about 100 sanitiser manufacturers in India, a majority of them with manufacturing units in special category states like Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh. WHO recommends alcohol-based sanitisers and frequent washing of hands using soap to prevent the spread of coronavirus. Sanitiser isn’t a complex product to manufacture. It takes only about 70 percent of pure isopropyl alcohol and 30 percent aloe vera gel or PEG (polyethylene glycol) as an inactive

ingredient to make sanitiser. What is crucial is the adherence to good manufacturing practices (GMP) in production. “There are a lot of new companies that have started distributing their own private label because there is a surge in demand. This is an opportunity for any company who has a (manufacturing) set up and network for distribution,” said Mr. Prashant Singh, Director, Medlife. “Many companies making cosmetics and perfumes have shifted to sanitisers. In a way, it is helping to reduce the shortage,” he added. “We are trying hard to meet the orders and maintain quality while keeping the price affordable. Our earlier production capacity was 3,000 litres of hand sanitiser in a month but now it takes just 10 days to sell that

much sanitiser,” said Mr. Ravi Patel, a sanitiser manufacturer in Surat. Mr. Sanjay Punjabi, CEO of a Changodar-based firm Nidhi Cosmetics, said, “Sanitisers are not our core product as we are into making liquid soaps, shower gels, etc. The spike led us to get into sanitiser production. Apart from domestic market, we are also eyeing exports to UK.” Pharma major Cipla, which was never into sanitisers, has started distributing the product. Other companies such as ZEE Laboratories and IPC Healthcare have also sprung into action, manufacturing and distributing sanitisers. ZEE Laboratories is a manufacturer of generic pharmaceuticals and cosmetics while IPC was mainly a branded drugs supplier for hospitals. Manufacturers expect a 10-time jump in demand for sanitisers.

Vimal Life Sciences & HPIC names award in the name of Mr. S.M. Shanbhag – Tribute to an industry pioneer As a tribute to Mr. Shivanand Shanbhag, one of the pioneers in the field of Cosmetic Science in India, Vimal Life Sciences and HPIC India have decided to name one of the three awards instituted by them for the Student Excellence Award Programme this year, in his name. It has been overwhelmingly supported by his family, friends and ex-colleagues. The Award, namely, ‘Excellence in Innovative Formulation Design (Futuristic market trends),’ will be named after Mr. Shanbhag. It will be now called as ‘Shivanand Shanbhag

Excellence in Innovative Formulation Design Award (Futuristic market trends).’ Mr. Shanbhag, after completion of his B.Sc. (Tech.) in Oil, Fats & Waxes from UDCT, Mumbai (presently known as Institute of Chemical Technology, ICT), started his career in Lakme in 1969 and consistently progressed with the company and went on to become the General Manager (Technical). In 1998, when Lakme was taken over by Hindustan Lever Ltd. (HLL), Mr. Shanbhag continued his illustrious career and assumed a leadership position of the Head of

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Innovation for Colour Cosmetics. Even after his retirement, Mr. Shanbhag continued his long association with the cosmetic industry by training students at V.G. Vaze College, Mumbai for the post-graduation course in Cosmetic Science offered by the institute for over 10 years. Quoting Mr. Shanbhag on this lifetime association with the cosmetic industry – “In this journey I had association with so many who were working for me and I made friendship with others and shared whatever I knew. So I am contented with a thought that whatever I intended to do has been achieved.” 13

Indian News UNLOCKING VALUE

Founding family puts Super Vasmol brand of hair colours on the block Leading personal care companies Godrej Consumer Products Ltd., Marico, Emami, Dabur and Hindustan Unilever Ltd. (HUL) have reportedly been tapped as the founding family behind Super Vasmol hair colours has decided to sell its flagship brand for Rs. 1,500-1,800-crore. The transaction would give an exit to PremjiInvest that in 2015 invested Rs. 216-crore for around one-third stake of Hygienic Research Institute Pvt. Ltd., the company behind the 63-year old brand.

salon or the professional channel, its products are currently sold in 25,00030,000 outlets directly and the company aims to grow them to about 50,000 in the next two years. Trade analysts claim, Super Vasmol has a strong market share in east and south, and any company that has plans to deepen its presence in the two markets is likely to make a play. It also has retail presence in the hair-care segment in Bangladesh, where it competes with Marico, and Nepal, and its products are exported to about 20 countries.

The monetisation exercise would also unlock value for the founders – the Chhabra family – who want to continue running the profitable company as well as Streax brands of hair colour products. The flagship brand is likely to get demerged into a separate vehicle from a tax efficiency point of view. The deal is likely to entail a structure wherein some of the sale consideration will be used to pay off PremjiInvest. The company was founded in 1950 by late SS Nishat. Over the years, it has built brands such as Super Vasmol 33, Keshkala, Vasmol Kali Mehendi, Super Vasmol Aamla Herbal Powder Hair Dyes, Vasmol Shaving

Cream, Streax Hair Colour, Streax Pro and Streax Euro range of professional products, Yogiraj Thanda Tel, Florozone range of skincare products and Silkiss shampoo range. Hygienic Research has five manufacturing plants in India, at Mumbai, Baddi and Guwahati. The company has a direct pan India retail distribution network of over 4 lakh outlets and aims to grow it by 25% on-year to reach Rs. 1,000-crore topline by 2020. In the

Even in the past, players like Godrej, Marico and Dabur had made overtures to buy the company or its brands but till date the family had resisted. PremjiInvest was the first external investor. The Indian hair care industry has evolved to a $3.3-bn, or about Rs. 23,600-crore, market, with growth rate of about 10%, according to a 2019 report by Nielsen.

GF Biochemicals to set up plant for biodegradable solvents in India or Europe GF Biochemicals has teamed with Oman-based Towell Engineering Group for a joint venture (JV) to produce bio-based levulinic acid as well as bio-solvents and bio-plasticisers using the levulinic acid. 14

The JV, called Nxtlevvel Biochem, will use GF Biochemicals’ proprietary technology and will undertake both production and marketing based in the Netherlands, alongside GF Biochemicals.

The partnership expects to open a plant in Europe or India that will produce 30,000-tpa of biodegradable solvents and plasticisers for cleaning, personal care, coatings, and agriculture markets.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Indian News GOING AGAINST THE TIDE

ITC to ramp up new product rollouts amid slowdown Diversified conglomerate, ITC Ltd., will accelerate the rollout of new FMCG products, bucking the industry trend amid consumption slowdown, aiming to drive sales and capture market share, said Executive Director Mr. B. Sumant. ITC, a late entrant in the FMCG goods space, will launch 50-plus products in the next financial year and is on course to introduce 17 products during the current quarter, which is traditionally the slowest due to exams. “Even during a slowdown, consumers look for variety and value-added

attributes in products. Our primary focus is to drive demand and grow consumer franchise with the launch of innovative and differentiated products. The focus is on pursuing accelerated growth with profitability,” said Mr. Sumant, responsible for ITC’s FMCG business.

ITC is bringing out low-priced units, such as Rs. 5 packs, in almost every category to both retain customers and get newer consumers who have cut down on their daily necessity spending. The company will debut its FMCG e-store in the next financial year and is scouting for investment in FMCG startups after picking up a stake in a vending machine company recently.

The company does not want to change its strategy during short-term disruptions. This is in contrast to most leading FMCG companies, which slow down their launches of new products due to poor consumption.

The company is targeting to become India’s largest FMCG company with sales of Rs. 1-lakh crore by 2030, an eightfold increase from Rs. 12,505-crore grossed in 2018-19.

PACKAGING

Piramal Glass to invest Rs. 300-crore for Vadodara plant expansion Piramal Glass Ltd., a leading specialist in design, production and decoration of premium glass packaging solutions for the cosmetics and perfumery, food & beverage and pharmaceutical industries, has announced

an investment of around Rs. 300-crore in their Jambusar plant near Vadodara, Gujarat.

The investment will go into adding a new greenfield furnace of 250 tonnes per day capacity with seven new manufacturing lines, the company’s Vice Chairman Mr. Vijay Shah said, adding that the focus going forward will be on exports. He added that the Mr. Vijay Shah, Vice Chairman, Piramal Glass at the groundbreaking ceremony expansion will

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

enable them to better serve their clients across Asia, Europe, Australia and the US where the company is already present. Piramal Glass is among the top suppliers of glass bottles in the country. It grossed Rs. 2,500-crore in sales in FY19 and operates four manufacturing facilities in India, Sri Lanka and the US. As much as 40 per cent of its sale come from cosmetics & perfume market, 37 per cent from specialty spirits and the rest from the pharma space, Mr. Shah said. The Jambusar plant houses three furnaces with 23 manufacturing lines and produces 540 tonnes per day of glass, making it the largest specialty glass player in Asia. 15

Indian News FIGHT FOR SHARE

Hindustan Unilever losing market share in skin-cleansing category Hindustan Unilever Ltd. (HUL), the country’s biggest consumer goods firm, lost over 340 basis points in skin cleansing category over the past two years dragged by sharp decline in two of its largest brands – Lux and Lifebuoy – that together accounts for a quarter of the market. HUL, the largest soaps maker, has seen its market share fall from 42.3% in the year ended December 2017 to 38.9% last calendar year, according to reports quoting Nielsen data. In the Rs. 22,000-crore soap segment that is roughly Rs. 800-crore eroded in a market which is increasingly getting competitive. HUL, which controlled more than half the soap market a decade ago, has seen consistent share loss in the segment but the latest decline has been the steepest. HUL parent company, Unilever, at the Consumer Analyst Group of New York (CAGNY) conference in the US recently, acknowledged that penetration for the top two skin cleans-

ing brands in India has been down. “As a result, we have seen declining sales and share losses in 2019. We have made specific interventions on price and product quality and we are becoming sharper on our brand messaging and, believe me, this will

make all the difference,” Unilever’s Chief Financial Officer Mr. Graeme Pitkethly told investors. For HUL, soaps business accounts for roughly a quarter of its annual sales.

GHCL board approves demerger of its inorganic chemicals and textiles business GHCL, a diversified group with footprint in chemicals, textiles and consumer products, has announced that its board has approved the scheme of demerger of its inorganic chemicals and textiles businesses. The textile business will be demerged into a separate company. Both companies will be listed separately post approval from National Company Law Tribunal (NCLT). Commenting on the development, Mr. R. S. Jalan, Managing Director, 16

GHCL said, “The demerger is intended to deliver various operational and strategic benefits to each business segment as separate listed entities such as focused growth, concentrated approach, business synergies and increased operational and customer focus. In addition, it will

address independent business opportunities with efficient capital allocation and attract different set of investors, strategic partners, lenders and other stakeholders, thus expected to result in enhanced value creation for stakeholders.” In the chemicals segment, GHCL mainly manufactures soda ash (anhydrous sodium carbonate) that is a major raw material for detergents & glass industries and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

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News from Abroad RENEWABLE INGREDIENTS

Firmenich to acquire French ingredients supplier, DRT Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour major, has agreed to acquire France-based ingredients supplier Les Dérivés Résiniques et Terpéniques (DRT) from private equity firm Ardian. Firmenich announced that it has entered into an agreement with Ardian, Tikehau Capital and family shareholders to acquire DRT, which develops a range of plant-based and naturally-derived ingredients from terpenes and rosin derivatives – such as wood rosin resins – which can be used as texturisers in beverages, chewing gum and personal care products. DRT’s ingredients are mainly sourced from pine trees, and Firmenich stated that the acquisition will significantly enhance its portfolio of ‘renewable’ ingredients. Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed.

DRT operates nine production facilities worldwide – four in France, two in the US, two in India and one in China – and the company registered a turnover of Euro 550-mn in its most recent annual results. Mr. Patrick Firmenich, Chairman of the board at Firmenich said, “I am thrilled to bring DRT’s unique capabilities for developing sustainable ingredients to Firmenich. This proposed combination builds on our business partnership of more than 30 years and our established track record of successful co-development in a long-standing joint venture. Mr. Laurent Labatut, CEO of DRT,

added, “We share a long-standing relationship with Firmenich as it is one of our main partners. Firmenich is renowned for its cutting-edge research that feeds into the broadest and finest ingredients palette. Our joint innovation capabilities would open up new opportunities to support our clients across our entire product portfolio. Together we look forward to opening a new chapter with a shared ambition to design best-inclass sustainable ingredients for our customers.” “DRT would bring new capabilities in health & nutrition, cosmetics, as well as a number of new markets, including adhesives, coatings and agriculture. This acquisition reinforces our presence in France, which is our second largest market where we have been established for more than 120 years,” commented Mr. Gilbert Ghostine, CEO, Firmenich.

RESPONSIBLE CORPORATES

LVMH and Firmenich to use perfume and cosmetics factories to manufacture hand sanitiser Swiss fragrance and flavour firm, Firmenich and French luxury goods giant, LVMH, have announced plans to use its perfume and cosmetics production sites to manufacture hand sanitiser amid the Covid-19 outbreak. LVMH factories, which produce products for brands like Christian Dior and Givenchy, will manufacture free disinfectant and deliver it to French authorities, as well as the Assistance Publique-Hôpitaux de Paris, which is Europe’s largest hospital system. “Through this initiative, LVMH intends to help address the risk of a lack of product in France and enable 18

a greater number of people to continue to take the right action to protect themselves from the spread of the virus. LVMH will continue to honour this commitment for as long as necessary, in connection with the French health authorities,” the company said in a statement. Firmenich also announced that in response to the “exceptional measures announced by the Geneva authorities” to combat the Covid-19 virus, it is “adapting the production at the La Plaine (Switzerland) manufacturing site to donate 20 tons of disinfectant solution to the Geneva University Hospital (HUG), and medical & emergency services”.

“As a responsible Swiss company, we must take action and lead by example, to help our local community during these exceptionally challenging times,” commented Mr. Gilbert Ghostine, CEO, Firmenich.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

News from Abroad DIPPING FORTUNES

Henkel mulls selling underperforming consumer brands; in race for Coty unit German FMCG major, Henkel, has announced plans to sell or discontinue some brands in its consumer businesses by 2021 while looking for acquisition opportunities in response to flatlining sales and three consecutive profit warnings. The company’s CEO, Mr. Carsten Knobel, who has been in charge of the Euro 34.5-bn family-controlled German group since January, has promised to “rigorously optimise and shape” the brands that Henkel owns. The worst performers, which account for Euro 500-mn in revenue, will be sold or divested by the end of 2021. He has also earmarked operations generating a further Euro 500mn in revenue for restructuring. The consumer units – beauty, laundry and home care – made combined sales of Euro 10.5-bn in 2019. Mr. Knobel stressed that Henkel was not turning its back on mergers and acquisitions but would continue to look for takeover targets. Since 2008, it has spent Euro 12.5-bn on 73 deals. Last year, operating profits fell at all three of Henkel’s business units – adhesive technologies, beauty

care and laundry & home care. The biggest drag on the business is the beauty care division, which makes Schwarzkopf shampoo and Dial soap. It has been struggling for years and in 2019 operating profit dropped 23 per cent. “Our performance in beauty is clearly below the expectations and we are not satisfied and we are having to change that,” said Mr. Knobel. Chief Financial Officer Mr. Marco Swoboda warned that the group also expected to lose about Euro 100-mn in sales during the first quarter because of the coronavirus outbreak, adding that “the situation overall is highly uncertain and unpredictable”.

Henkel, KKR advance in Coty unit bidding In another development, Henkel and buyout firm KKR & Co. are reported to be among a small group of suitors proceeding to the second round of bidding for Coty Inc’s professional hair and nail products business. Advent International and a separate consortium of Cinven and the Abu Dhabi Investment Authority weren’t chosen to advance to the next round after they submitted initial offers. Private equity firms Bain Capital and Clayton Dubilier & Rice dropped out of the race. The Coty unit, which owns brands including Wella and Clairol, could fetch $7-bn to $8-bn, according to reports.

PACKAGING FILMS

Kuraray plans PVA water-soluble films in Poland Japanese chemicals and polymer firm, Kuraray, has announced its USbased water-soluble polymer films manufacturing subsidiary, MonoSol, is planning to set up a new facility for PVA water-soluble films in Poland as demand grows for packaging film 20

for unit dose detergents, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and other products. The PVA films, which dissolve completely upon contact with water, are biodegradable, meaning they will not contaminate the recycling stream.

The new production base in Poland will help optimise global supply chain and expand sales in Europe, the company said. The new facility, which will be built with an investment of around $45-mn in Zimna Wodka, is expected to start in the middle of 2022.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

News from Abroad CARBON NEUTRALITY

Firmenich achieves 100% renewable electricity at all its global operations including onsite solutions such as wind power and solar energy.

Firmenich, the Swiss privatelyowned perfume and taste company, has announced that all its operations worldwide are now powered by 100% renewable electricity. An industry first, this milestone builds on Firmenich’s second consecutive CDP Triple A ranking for Climate Change, Water and Forests, which it received recently at the CDP Awards Ceremony in Paris. The Group’s transition to green power is supported by RE100, a global initiative of the most influential companies committed to 100% renewable power led by The Climate Group in partnership with CDP. “Present in more than 100 markets, with 39 plants worldwide, we are always open to sharing best practice on how ambitious, sciencebased targets can drive real progress

against climate change,” said Mr. Gilbert Ghostine, CEO Firmenich. In 2015, Firmenich had set the target to source 100% of our electricity from renewables by 2020. The company said it reached “100% renewable electricity consumption ahead of schedule in all markets where it is currently possible to locally source renewable electricity in accordance with RE100 strict technical criteria”. The Group purchased renewable grid electricity and collaborated with suppliers and governments to develop local availability of green power,

“Firmenich has shown that it’s possible for big businesses to deliver on ambitious targets that speed up the global transition to clean energy,” said Mr. Sam Kimmins, Head of RE100 at The Climate Group. “Through its membership of RE100, Firmenich’s climate leadership is encouraging the few countries where renewables remain harder to access to speed up their transition to clean energy.” Using 100% renewable electricity supports the Group’s science-based targets aligned with limiting global temperature rise to 1.5°C. Firmenich said it decoupled its growth from its CO2 emissions, with manufacturing output up 18% and emissions down by 30% since 2015.

GENDER DIVERSITY

BASF to increase proportion of women in leadership positions German chemicals giant, BASF, has revealed plans to increase the proportion of women in leadership positions to 30 percent worldwide by 2030. At the end of 2019, the proportion of female managers was 23 percent (2018: 21.7 percent). In 2015, BASF had set itself the target of increasing the proportion of women in leadership roles to 22 to 24 percent as of 2021, which it achieved ahead of schedule at the end of 2019. BASF said it will put special emphasis on the three leadership levels below the Board of Executive Direc-

tors, where the proportion of female leaders is 15.8 percent (as of December 31, 2019).

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“We want to better incorporate women and their abilities in the leadership team of BASF. As a research-driven company, we know the value of diverse ways of thinking and working. Different perspectives result in innovative ideas and solutions for our customers,” said Dr. Martin Brudermüller, the company’s Chairman. 21

News from Abroad SUSTAINABLE ORAL CARE

Unilever launches its first 100% recycled plastic toothbrush Unilever has launched its first toothbrush made from 100% recycled plastic in France. The new Signal Ecolo Clean toothbrush is made from 100% food-grade postconsumer recycled (PCR) plastic, while its smart design features a comfortable, ergonomic hollow handle with 40% less plastic than an ordinary toothbrush – saving 10 tonnes of plastic in its first year. At the end of its life, the toothbrush needn’t contribute to land-

fill or disturb fragile ocean ecosystems. It’s 100% recyclable, thanks to a consumer-return partnership with global recycling company, TerraCycle. Consumers in France can simply return their used toothbrushes to one of a number of TerraCycle collection points where they will be recycled. This launch builds on the partnership Unilever has with TerraCycle in many countries. The toothbrush also comes in a paper pack, which is fully recyclable. “Signal has produced the first toothbrush to tick all the boxes on

Unilever’s new commitment to creating a circular economy for plastic – cutting virgin plastic out of the process,” Unilever said in a press note. “At the start of 2019 we launched Signal’s first bamboo toothbrush to reduce the brand’s impact on the environment. Now, with Ecolo Clean, we’ve seized this opportunity to lead a massive sustainable change in the toothbrush category,” informed Project Leader Ms. Leila Esmaeili. “And this is just the beginning. Across every part of Unilever, we have the objective to cut our use of virgin plastic by half and use 100% reusable, recyclable plastic by 2025,” she observed. Unilever plans to introduce the toothbrush in other markets as well.

INGREDIENT TRANSPARENCY

Sozio launches clean fragrance label French fragrance supplier, Sozio, has launched a line of Clean Label fragrance formulas and in the interest of ingredient transparency will share a list all raw materials in each scent with their customers. “Consumers are looking for safer products. They also want to minimise their impact on the environment,” said Ms. Harmonie Soudan, Regulatory Affairs Director at Sozio. “We have defined a list of blacklisted ingredients that are forbidden for use under our Clean Fragrance label. We are providing fragrances that don’t contain any controversial ingredients as well as sensitising ingredients, allergens and endocrine disruptors. We are ensuring that our clean fragrances are made without human or environmental health risks. We have also added 22

some really restrictive requirements requested by some of our customers such as nitrate or polycyclic musks. Finally, to put the environment at the centre of our approach, we guarantee the non-use of any ingredient coming from endangered wild flora,” she added. Fragrance houses, in the interest of guarding proprietary blends and trade secrets, have been slow to adjust to the demand for ingredient transparency. But that’s changing as brands and retailers set guidelines on ingredient lists and consumers expect to know exactly what is in any given beauty product formulation. “Being transparent is key,” emphasised Mr. Frederic Braud, General Manager at Sozio. “Today in the

perfumery landscape, customers want to have access to the formula or build new guidelines that are more and more restrictive to keep control of the use of the raw materials. With our ‘Clean Fragrance’ label, we share with our clients the list of all the raw materials included in our ‘Clean Fragrance’ formulas. We understand that ‘clean’ is more than just a guideline, it is a lifestyle, a mindset philosophy and a new way of consumption. We are ready to share more information with our customers to educate them about the perfumery world, to help them make the best choice for their well-being and the environment,” he added. The new ‘Clean Fragrance; label line from Sozio is vegan, glutenfree, and made without nanomaterials. It’s free of what the company calls sensitising ingredients, allergens, and endocrine disruptors.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

News from Abroad FIGHTING COVID-19

CABB supplies precursors for hygiene and disinfection products CABB Group, the German manufacturer of precursors, intermediates and active substances in the fine chemical industry, is making a contribution to the fight against corona virus with the supply of high purity monochloroacetic acid (MCA). MCA is an indispensable component of betaines, which control the cleaning properties of liquid

care products such as hand soaps or washing lotions. CABB is a strategic partner of key global producers of these chemical building blocks. In addition, CABB produces bleaching soda, which is an important active ingredient in numerous cleaning and care products due to its disinfectant properties. Even in small doses, bleaching soda is effective

against coli bacteria and staphylococci and is therefore used, for example, in sanitary gels. “The Covid-19 crisis can only be solved if people and companies around the world work together and pull together,” said Mr. Carsten Wörner, Head of the Acetyls Business Unit at CABB. “With our customer-specific supply chains, we make a contribution to maintaining the supply of important hygiene products,” he added.

MARKET TRENDS

Global cosmetic packaging market set to be worth around $15-bn by 2026 As per a Transparency Market Research report, the global cosmetic packaging market is set to grow at a 4.7% CAGR from 2018 to 2026 and reach a value of $14.25-bn. Owing to a massive shift of consumer preference away from plastic due to its negative impact on the environment, the paper segment would grow at an impressive pace, the report stated. Sustainable packaging would see an increasing number of

takers in the market owing to increasing environmental awareness. In terms of application, hair care segment is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.2% while skin care segment would account for a large market share in terms of value and volume. “Capacity-wise, less than 50-ml would be a prominent segment, owing to greater affordability of small packs and their ease of handling,” the report stated.

Asia Pacific is expected to dominate the global cosmetic packaging market with China and Japan at the forefront of growth. Europe is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.3% from 2018 to 2026 with Germany and France being major contributors. Some of the most notable players in the market include Aptar Group, RPC Group, Gerresheimer, Amcor, Libo Cosmetics Company, Quadpack Industries, HCP Packaging, Fusion Packaging, Essel Propack, Albea, etc.

Revlon to cut 1,000 positions, continues to explore options US-based cosmetics giant, Revlon, said it expected to save up to $230-mn a year by 2022 end, mainly by eliminating nearly 1,000 positions, in a bid to improve profitability even as it continues to explore options along with Goldman Sachs. The company has been struggling

to attract youngsters in a competitive market that houses several upstart brands and bigger companies such as L’Oréal and Estee Lauder. Its sales has declined for at least five quarters hit by weak demand for its fragrances and namesake products. The company said it expects to incur between $55-mn and $65-mn in charges

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

in 2020, mainly due to severance and contract termination costs. Its biggest shareholder MacAndrews and Forbes, the holding company through which billionaire Ronald Perelman owns about 87% stake in Revlon, had said in August last year that the cosmetics maker was exploring options for its business. 23

News from Abroad OUTLOOK

Soap & detergents to drive growth of global tall oil fatty acid market The global tall oil fatty acid (TOFA) market, valued at $882.15mn in 2018, is set to grow at a CAGR of 4.2% till 2027 and reach a market size of $1.213-bn, according to a new analysis by Transparency Market Research. TOFA is obtained from crude tall oil, a by-product of the Kraft paper pulping process. Pine wood logs are the primary raw materials required for paper production; therefore, forestry products such as pine trees and other coniferous trees comprise the raw materials for crude tall oil and subsequently TOFA. TOFA is used in various enduser industries such as soaps & detergents, lubricants, fuel additives, paints & coatings, and plastics. It is used where long chain fatty acids are required. TOFA mainly comprises oleic acid and linoleic acid in almost equal proportion with trace amounts of linolenic, palmitic, and stearic acids. Oleic and linoleic acids are long chain fatty acids with 18 carbon chains. Dimer acids, alkyd resins, and fatty acid esters are the primary intermediate chemicals of TOFA. These are further processed for applications in end-user industries. The market is expected to profit by the rising demand of tall oil fatty acids from the soaps and detergent sector. Another growth factor for the TOFA market is the rising use of these fatty acids in various applications in the raw petroleum production area. The expanded utilisation of tall oil fatty acids in the making of biodiesel could also drive growth, according to the report. Different types of oils and fats are used for the production of natural 24

fatty acids. These include palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, tall oil, animal tallow, and rapeseed oil. Until three decades ago, the primary raw materials used for manufacturing oleochemicals were coconut and tallow oil; the latter provided C18 and C16 fatty acids, while the former provided C14 and C12 fatty acids. Initially, developed economies such as Japan and the US as well as the European region relied significantly on tallow as it served as a cost-effective source of feedstock in

the oleochemicals industry. However, after 1990, several health issues began to arise due to the consumption of tallow. This eventually shifted the industry preference towards vegetable oils. Until 2012, prices of TOFA were comparatively lower than tallow derived oleic acids. As a result, many end product manufacturers shifted preference to tall oil fatty acids for applications such as soap & detergents, oilfield chemicals, and lubricants. Soaps & detergents made from TOFA are also considered to be more environmentally sustainable.

GROWTH FORECAST

Oral care market size to reach $41-bn by 2026: Report The oral care market is expected to grow rapidly due to factors like increasing prevalence of dental caries, periodontal diseases, and other dental illnesses, growing knowledge of oral hygiene, increasing expenditure on dental health care, and increasing number of small/private dental clinics, according to a new report by Valuates Reports. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In 2019, the global oral care market size was worth $3.47-bn, and it is expected to reach $41-bn by the end of 2026, growing at a CAGR of 2.4% during the period,â&#x20AC;? the report revealed. The report covers market segments like toothbrush, toothpaste, mouthwash/rinse, denture products, and dental accessories. Toothpaste holds the largest share of the oral

care market. The primary driving factor for this category is high product consumption across all income and age groups. Some of the growth factors highlighted by the report include: The growing geriatric population and the availability of numerous types of denture products Innovative product introductions also drive the oral care market. Electric and battery-powered toothbrushes, dental floss, denture-adhesive creams, fresh breath strips, and chewing gums are some of the new products that the middle-income and highincome classes are increasingly adopting. Market entry of new products has increased peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest in oral care and thus increased demand.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

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Cover Story

Alkyl polyglucosides: Bio-based and biodegradable surfactants for home and personal care Introduction The on-going ‘green’ trend in the personal care industry coupled with global environmental concerns, place natural-origin, biodegradable and skin-friendly sugar-based surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) in high demand. APGs, produced from vegetable oils and starch, are claimed to possess advantages over other classes of surfactants in terms of dermatological and ocular safety, biodegradability, wettability, foam production, and cleaning ability. Studies show that there is no environmental risk even where APGs are used in large quantities. Some APGs have been granted the status of pharmaceutical excipients. Nevertheless, it remains a challenge to persuade some formulators to replace low-cost conventional surfactants with these alternatives. In cosmetic, APGs are used to formulate shampoo, face wash, hand wash, shower gel and many more cleansing products for skin and hair. Chemical structure Formally, APGs are described in terms of an acetal structure, wherein:  R represents the alkyl group of 8-16 carbon atoms;  DP is the degree of polymerisation (average number of glucose units per alkyl radical), which is always greater than 1 and usually less than 2 (typically from 1.3 to 1.7). CH2OH

O OR

OH H

O OH

R=C8-C16 DP: 1-2

Commercial APGs are complex mixtures of compounds differentiated in the number of glucose units present, the length of their alkyl chains and even in the possible isomeric differences of the cyclic ring. Historical development Emil Fischer synthesized and identified the first APG in 1893, but these products only had academic interest and were not used commercially until in the 1950s, when several companies developed the processes for it is manufacture.

have been the subject matter of numerous applications both within international and regional patent protection mechanisms ever since the early eighties(2). Manufacture APGs are made by reacting a fatty alcohol with a sugar, using an acid as a catalyst. Fatty alcohols, which give the APG the hydrophobic part of the molecule, can be obtained from petrochemical sources and renewable natural sources such as fats and oils. The hydrophilic part of the APG is provided by the sugar. Production processes can use polymeric carbohydrates or monomers as

In 1989, Cognis, at the time part of the Henkel Group, succeeded in designing an industrial producTable 1 tion process for APG surfactants Commercially produced APGs for the home care and body wash Carbon chain segments. In 1992, Henkel inau- INCI name gurated the first APG plant in Butyl glucoside C4 the USA, with a production of Hexyl glucoside C6 25,000-tpa, and in 1995 the seC8 cond plant with equal capacity Caprylyl glucoside Decyl glucoside C10 in Germany(1). Caprylyl/decyl glucoside C8-10 Production of APGs, differ- Lauryl glucoside C12-14 ent modes of their application C8-14 as well as use of this class of Coco glucoside C16-18 surfactants in various mixtures Cetearyl glucoside

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Cover Story Applications In cosmetics and personal care products, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, caprylyl/ capryl glucoside and coco-glucoside are reported to function as cleansing agents. C12-20 alkyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside are reported to function as emulsifying agents, while ethyl glucoside is reported to function as a skin-conditioning agent (humectant).

raw materials, i.e. glucose, starch, etc. Properties APGs have excellent properties as a surfactant: * Higher foaming power, compared to other nonionic surfactants; * Superior wetting properties and low surface tension; * Synergistic with some anionic surfactants and can reduce the irritation of anionic surfactants; * Good compatibility with commonly used ingredients in home and personal care products;

* Use over a wide pH range; * Low irritation to human skin and eyes; * No turbidity point, easily soluble in water, and high solubility even in high concentration of electrolyte; * Can be easily diluted, no gel phenomena; * Tolerance to hard water; * Low critical micelle concentration, which means it is needed in small quantities; and * Excellent biodegradability â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the metabolites are only carbon dioxide and water.

In cosmetic applications, decyl polyglucoside is the most frequently used APG, for it delivers reasonably high foaming and cleansing performance for a nonionic surfactant without the irritation potential of anionic detergents, such as alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates(3). Market trends According to a study by Persistence Market Research, a market research firm, the global APG market is valued at US$902-mn in 2018, and is forecast to grow at a CAGR of 6.8% to 2028, creating an additional opportunity of US$842-mn in the ten-year period(4). Growing demand from homecare and laundry detergents industry will

Table 2 Applications of some APGs in HPC products INCI

Characteristics

Main Applications

Lauryl glucoside

Can be used as a foaming agent, conditioner or emulsifier. It has excellent foaming capacity and good dermatological compatibility.

Used as a base surfactant or a co-surfactant in cosmetic surfactant cleansing products, as shampoo or shower and bath preparations.

Decyl glucoside

Has an excellent and stable foam. Can be combined with oils and additive, or other glucosides (to enhance the foam and skin conditioning properties). Used in ionic formulations to add foam depth and emulsifying properties.

It is suitable for use as a base surfactant or a co-surfactant in cosmetic surfactant cleansing preparations, like bubble bath and shower gels, shampoos, conditioners, body washes, cleansers, hand soaps or body scrubs.

Coco glucoside

Can be used as a foaming agent, conditioner or emulsifier. Derived from coconut and fruit sugars. It is completely biodegradable.

Increases the foaming capacity in skincare and haircare products. It also has the excellent benefit of acting as an emulsifier to allow essential oils and water to mix.

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Cover Story drive the APG market to over 973-kt (kilotonnes) in global sales by 2028, according to another report by FACT.MR, a market research firm(5). Demand is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8% to 2028. Europe currently dominates the global APG market, thanks to increasing consumer preference for eco-friendly, biodegradable products, while North America is the second largest market, wherein the bio-surfactant has made some inroads into replacing conventional surfactants such as linear alkyl benzene sulphonic acid, among others. North America is expected to be the fastest growing region for APG market for the next five years(6). Total demand for APGs in Europe is estimated at nearly 151-kt (kilotonnes) in 2017. Demand from the pharmaceutical, personal care, paints, and textiles industries is being driven by both government mandates and consumer awareness. Globally, demand for capryl glucoside and decyl glucoside are significantly higher than other product types, as the two are used in homecare and laundry detergents on account of their superior performance and biodegradable nature. Global

demand for capryl glucoside alone is expected to reach 160-kt in 2018. Key players in the APG business include: BASF SE, DowDupont, Croda International Plc, Huntsman Corporation, Galaxy Surfactants, SEPPIC SA, LG Household & Healthcare, and Pilot Chemical Company. The key participants are focusing on augmenting production capacity to meet the rising global demand. Concluding remarks Household detergents dominate current APG demand, but personal care is the fastest growing application segment. One limiting factor for its greater usage is price, especially in the price-sensitive markets of emerging Asia wherein much of the surfactant demand growth is expected to take place.

References 1. h t t p s : / / s t e e m i t . c o m / s t e e m stem/@ejrangel/alkyl-polyglycoside 2. Alkyl Polyglucosides â&#x20AC;&#x201C; From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems, Ed. Ivana Pantelic, Woodhead Publishing, ISBN 978-1-907568-65-7. 3. Ingredient profile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Decyl Glucoside, Michael Fevola, Cosmetics & Toiletries, September 20, 2013. 4. https://www.persistencemarketresearch.com/market-research/ alkyl-polyglucoside-surfactantsmarket.asp 5. https://www.factmr.com/mediarelease/480/alkyl-polyglucosidemarket 6. https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com/alkyl-polyglucosides-market.html

Mrs. Usha S. - usha@hpicindia.com 28

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Special Article

Managing lethargy in sensory evaluations Everyone works poorly when tired. We become tired whenever the work we carry out involves human (physical and/or mental) effort. In the fragrances and flavours (F&F) industry, the routine feature requiring human inputs is the evaluation of aromatic raw materials and fragranced products. Losing sensitivity to odours (olfactory fatigue, wear out) due to continuous exposure to relatively unvarying smell is a common experience occurring in the F&F industry. God has no doubt endowed us with a robust human olfactory system; however, on facing a continuous stream of constant odorant (fragrance, flavour or an obnoxious odour) it tends to lose its sensitivity by adapting itself, so that the stream of odour tends to smell weak at first and then, later on, goes to produce a total loss of odour perception. Olfactory adaptation & psychophysical function All human senses tend to adapt to varying degrees, with each one susceptible to adaptation according to available sensory inputs. Typically, for instance, if we come out of a dark room, say, a movie theatre to bright daylight, we would find the outside very bright until our eyes automatically re-adapt to the brightness out-

side. However, in olfaction, adaptation thankfully is temporary â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and normalizes simply by breathing nonodourised air. Suppose, we smell a substance and shortly after some moments smell the same substance at a lower concentration, then either the odour sensation would be absent or would be considerably weaker. This is called, â&#x20AC;&#x153;self-adaptationâ&#x20AC;?. How long does it take a smell to disappear? This is a question many researchers over the past several decades have tried to find an answer to, without success! Every substance does eventually disappear, but researchers do not find any clear relation between odour strength and the time taken for the disappearance of the smell sensation. Every person has a different criterion, about the smell sensation disappearance time, versus concentration. Researchers find that the time required to reach total adaptation, is proportional to the square root of concentration. It means that doubling the concentration, requires only about an additional 40% time to achieve total disappearance of smell sensation. In this case, however, we should consider the existence of biases that could occur as some individuals may adopt a more stringent criterion, to decide on an odour per-

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

ception in comparison to other individuals, as changing criteria yields varying appearing rates of olfactory adaptation versus concentration. The rate at which an odour sensation disappears is another question we need to look at. Does it do so rapidly within seconds or are there residual odour left, to adapt out over the next few minutes or does the odour impression diminish slowly and steadily or linearly until no longer present? Expectedly, the rate of adaptation is higher when the stimulus is more intense, although biases like assigning an inappropriately initial higher rating could creep in. Studies say that the perceived odour intensity declines quite rapidly at first, and then more gradually until it finally approaches an asymptote, i.e., reflecting a terminal or final, non-zero, perceived odour level. If we interrupt the continuous stream of odourised air with an odourless air or say, with a different substance, then we can bring about a recovery, meaning a return to sensitivity, before adaptation. Increasing adaptation time increases olfactory fatigue, which would require longer waiting time to recover sensitivity. Practically speaking, odour inten29

Special Article sity, odorant concentration and the time of exposure, affects odour adaptation and therefore it becomes more relevant to consider and give importance to all this while setting up odour evaluation panels. 1.

To prevent adaptation, choose shorter evaluations that are more effective, than long ones. 2. Odour intensity perceived is likely to change during an evaluation, due to adaptation, even though physically the sample is unaffected. Evaluator, therefore, could wrongly state the results of the sample, as having changed in odour quality, when all that has occurred is odour adaptation. 3. A sufficiently well-planned regimen of evaluation is necessary, so that panellists smell more odorants, especially if the odorants are much above their threshold levels. 4. When sequencing fragrance evaluations, take care to present the panellist the weaker odorant first, followed by the stronger fragrance stimulus and not vice versa. 5. When presenting odorants of different types or qualities in con-

tinuous succession, there is a possibility of cross-adaptation. Crossadaptation in olfaction, varying with both concentration and time, is sometimes non-existent or minimal and when existing is neither symmetric nor the effect of one odorant on another dependent or reciprocal. Crossadaptation thus is unsystematic and unpredictable. Odour intensity increases systematically with odorant concentration. Researches show that an adapting stimulus can affect other stimuli in the same mode, with the effect primarily apparent on odorants of lower physical concentration. Hedonic long-term adaptation Sensory adaptation to odours dissipates quickly, although perceptual or hedonic adaptation remains for longer time. Panellists generally report that an odorant or fragrance no longer smells as pleasant as another odorant or is not as strong as the other and this adaptation could be due to cognitive adaptive process and not sensory as imagined. We observe that substantial he-

donic habituation can even occur when we present the same odorant to the panellist in a single session. An obnoxious odour does not smell as bad as it smelt in the beginning. This phenomenon, wherein a fragrance or flavour no longer seems as pleasing or strong as earlier, is only another form of long-term habituation. Repeated stimulation with different fragrance odours becomes a contextual experience against which we can evaluate a fresh fragrance or flavour. When one smells a strong fragrance, it will form a reference odour experience, so that even when the strength of the odour remains the same, the next sample will seem weaker in the new context of heightened intensity. Relative odour intensities do not change the frame of reference changes, although these odours are in absolute descriptive terms. Helson calls this the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Adaptation Level Theory of Perceptionâ&#x20AC;?. The adaptation level is the perceptual/cognitive portion of adaptation that is not sensory, but is a result of our system of processing and coding information, along with the nature of the human classification of sensory inputs on intensity. All these findings, however, are only general observations and not conclusive findings. Practical implication for testing fragrances In real-life situations, evaluators must carry out dozens of evaluations without either getting bored, nor with any loss of sensitivity. It is imperative to optimize the product testing sequences and 2-5 minutes of rest periods are necessary to ensure recovery of sensitivity, at least at the supraliminal or supra-threshold intensity levels. Panellists, in any case, should not smell a single fragrance continuously, whether using a blotter smelling strip, taking a whiff from a bottle or even from a human arm. The ideal single smelling time is

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Special Article about two seconds only and if the panellist needs to smell it again, it better be only after 15-20 seconds gap. Alternately, the panellist can smell a blank blotter or odourless cloth, etc. The intervening period between two evaluations breaks the monotony of similar smells. Product wear-out is an indication of the panellist’s adaptation level, reflecting the effect of previous experience with new products. Incidentally, product wear-out is an evaluative cognitive phenomenon and is not a sensory one. Considering the evaluator panellists are a motivated lot, it is possible to evaluate up to 20 fragrances in a session, taking care to avoid any significant loss of sensitivity. In an optimized testing situation, adaptation is not an inherent limitation, on olfactory sensitivity, but a motivational phenomenon. To prevent the panellists from experiencing fatigue, it is significant to reduce the numbers of samples during sensory evaluation sessions. General experience reveals that a fragrance panel could efficiently evaluate four pairs (eight samples) per session and flavour panel could evaluate only three samples per session in an hour or so.

However, its importance is generally low. Local muscular fatigue should not be confused with general physical fatigue, which affects the whole body. Psychological fatigue or lassitude The person has no more interest in his/her work due to routine job of smelling/tasting similar things day in and day out. It is hard for anyone to concentrate on the job due to this, all resulting in fatigue. Mental fatigue This kind of fatigue occurs in sensory evaluation. When person does not have a scientific training on profiles, or descriptors or uses wrong descriptors, which are irreproducible. When one understands, what and why they are performing the job, mental fatigue will reduce substantially, increasing motivation. We observe this happening, more in perfumery than in flavours. Nervous fatigue The fear of getting evaluations wrong makes the panellist nervous; he eventually fails to concentrate on discriminating an odour/flavour. Temporary and reversible increase in the threshold values relates largely to nervous fatigue.

However, we admit that there exists a lack of scientific clarity on the accuracy with respect to various factors like experimental conditions, sensory evaluation methodology duration of the sensory session, etc. This inadequate scientific information, gives rise to the ambiguity of the word, “fatigue”.

Adaptation and sensory fatigue Prolonged stimulation makes our senses lose their sensitivity. We call this phenomenon as sensory adaptation. In olfaction, adaptation can be complete, i.e., a stimulus we perceive in the beginning, may become completely imperceptible after some continuous exposure.

The components of fatigue

Supposing we enter a room having a smoky odour; we will easily be able to perceive it on entering. However, after spending some time therein, we will not get that strong smoky smell, meaning our fatigue adapts itself to the smoky background. However,

Muscular fatigue In sensory evaluation, muscular fatigue can take place at jaw level, when evaluating the texture of a solid food, e.g., chewing gum or toffee.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

if we come out of the room for few minutes, breath fresh air and then go back inside the same smoky room, we are likely to get the same smoky smell, again as strongly, as the first time earlier. This is a common occurrence in practical life wherein it takes at least 2-3 minutes to regain the initial sensitivity after fatigue. Considering all this, we should test odorant samples in pairs, from left to right and then vice-versa or guarantee to follow a random order. We could permit retesting, but not too frequently, else, fatigue could hinder decisions. In any case, the first olfactory impression is likely the correct one, in tune with the English expression, “First impression is the best impression”. During sensory evaluation of foods, generally complete adaptation takes place, as regaining sensitivity takes time. Practical regular experience show that panellists perform paired tests, triangular tests, two out of five tests, etc., comfortably without much difficulty. Practical sensory evaluation In any sensory evaluation study, when panellists assess the same fragrance on several occasions or, say, carry out multiple evaluations of the same fragrance, perceptible changes are bound to occur. When using a small expert panel, it is advisable to have many base sizes of judgments to ensure stable data. Experience indicates that even panels consisting of less than nine expert members are often so erratic that a single aberrant rating can yield unstable data results, unduly affecting results. When we use larger consumer panels and several judgments of the same product, we are likely to secure a more reliable data, accurately representing the results of long term, human exposure. In consumer panels, all too often, a single smell of a fragrance could provide misleading information, as a 31

Special Article fragrance liked by a panellist on the first sniff, may be subsequently disliked during normal home use conditions. The better way is to carry out a home-use test, wherein panellists use and evaluate the fragrance for a week or more, along with several other products, in a central location test facility under controlled conditions, unlike one at home. There is no clear scientific data on the effects of repeated fragrance evaluation, particularly on product evaluation. In general, replicate ratings that secure test reliability should yield same results on different occasions, keeping all other factors constant. Some published reports, instead, also attribute odour-perceptible changes to test method inconsistencies. Repeated smelling of the same fragrance in blind tests reveals that the more concrete the sensory attributes (intensity, note), more reliable it is and will repeat themselves with variations. However, for less concrete evaluative attributes (hedonics, imagery) results vary, during repetitive evaluations. Thus, in sensory analysis, perfect reliability does not exist. Panellists data vary. Therefore, the best method to secure reliable ratings data is to sample large number of panellists to eliminate errors due to sampling sub-populations and representations. Multiple repetitions of evaluations of the same fragrance also increases base size, making the data more reliable. However, there are changes in fragrance profile over replicate evaluations. Fortunately though, the fragrance ratings are sufficiently random, to prevent any systematic shift with repeated experience. Evaluative research loses little on any evaluation from multiple panellists, rather than testing the same product repeatedly with just a few panellists. Although, these findings do not 32

support superiority of short-term, central location testing over longerterm home use tests, however, it does say, that one rating, secured from a panellist after valid experience with a product, will be as useful as several such ratings, each secured from the panellist under the same experimental conditions. In fact, selecting meaningful attributes is significantly more important to produce reliable ratings, in addition to increasing repeated product evaluation, instead of just increasing base size. In short, it is better to test once with 100 panellists, than test four times with 25.

a break of one hour. During this break, panellist can eat, cakes, bread with butter, apple, cold coffee/tea, fruit juice, drinking chocolate etc. Panellist should strictly avoid spicy or hot foods and/or beverages. Technically qualified panellists * Group of 6 (number can vary, depending on food product) in age group 20-35 years. Number of samples * Not more than five at a time.

Recommendations on standard experimental conditions for organoleptic evaluations Fragrance/fragranced products (olfactory) Duration of sessions in a wellventilated odour free room * 1-2 hours in the morning. * 1-2 hours in the evening, if required. * 5-10 minutes break in the fresh air, every 30 minutes. Technically qualified panellists * 3 to 5 in age group 25 to 40 years. Number of samples * Not more than nine in each session. Maximum repetitive testing * Three times with panellists having full concentration without fatigue. Flavour/flavoured food products Duration of session * In a well-ventilated convenient aroma-free room, 4 or 5 hours with

Maximum repetitive testing * Two times only with panellists having a free mind, without any preoccupational thoughts. (Disqualify smokers, paan eaters, tobacco chewers, etc.) Conclusions Fatigue in a sensory evaluation depends on the conditions of the evaluation. If panellists are sincere and do not consider sensory evaluation as a chore, there is not much fatigue, i.e., there is not much variation in the quality of their evaluation over a period. However, if the panellists consider the sensory evaluation as a routine ritual and hard work, surely there is a decrease in the quality of responses. Liking the sensory evaluation process alone can always help manage lethargy, fatigue and boredom in fragrance smelling. DR. sITARAM DIXIT Independent Consultant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fragrance & Flavours, Cosmetics, Personal, Fabric & Household Care, Chemical Industry www.sitaramdixit.weebly.com www.sitaramdixit.bravesites.com www.sitaramdixit.yolasite.com www.sitaramdixit.2itb.com

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Special Article

Functional fragrance: Satisfying the needs of today’s consumer base in new ways [Courtesy: Ultra International] Over the last year, industry headlines have proclaimed ‘functional fragrance’ as a key concept for the future of wellness and olfaction. But isn’t it just the same as aromatherapy? This article deep dives into the context that has opened space for the functional fragrance concept to gain ground and thrive. We can track a new wave of marketing efforts rooted in the flavour and fragrance industry that herald the arrival of a new, highly innovative cultural synthesis that will purportedly change the way we engage with our sense of smell: functional fragrance. Advocates would have us believe that functional fragrance represents the apex of the holistic look-good-do-good movement that makeup and haircare have been part of for years – headlining products that combine noteworthy aesthetic impact with healthenriching benefit, whether that be cell repair, moisturisation, anti-ageing, vitamin delivery, UV protection or anxiety reduction, stress relief, anger management, or emotional detoxing. Crucially, these remedial claims have, to a greater and greater degree, become platformed by naturals – essential oils in particular. Keen industry eyes would see functional fragrance as an attempt to revive the principles of aromatherapy. This essay examines the social and industrial context that birthed the concept of functional fragrance, why it’s carrying weight with consumers and what it could mean for the industry. What is it? The defining attribute of functional fragrance is that its role is not just to smell good, or just to perform a health-boosting task, but to do

both at the same time, equally well, with equal weight put into the development of each of its operational poles so the consumer perceives the olfactive hedonic as part-sensorial indulgence and part-operational remedy. Early adopters have attempted to position functional fragrance offerings as data-backed neurological modifiers that fulfil multiple purposes (physical, emotional and cerebral) by affecting hormone response and cognitive patterning from olfactory stimuli, with clear aspirations towards the DIY preventative medicine market, burntout millennials wanting a quick fix for their stress, as well as jaded healthcare consumers that think their doctors are keeping something from them. Adina Grigore, founder of skincare brand S.W. Basics, commented that “the idea behind functional fragrance is that it’s actually doing something to help you,” whilst journalist Mellanie Perez considers it “a buzzy term that describes scents that ‘biohack’ our brains and bodies to perform better”, adopting findings that indicate effectiveness specifically for “irritation, stress, depression, apathy, happiness, sensuality, relaxation and stimulation.”

der essential oil to induce sleep a few years ago is now an anti-anxiety solution” whereas the 2019 Global Wellness Summit directly acknowledged its appropriation by suggesting that the marketing term “functional fragrance” represents “Aromatherapy 2.0”, satisfying the needs of today’s consumer base in new ways, “including 100 percent natural ingredients, transparency, sustainability and evidence-based results.” Market frontrunners include Aeroscena and its trademarked ‘phyto-inhalants’; Osea and its ‘Vagus Nerve Oil’; and The Nue Co, whose flagship functional fragrance induced a feeling of calm in 96% of test subjects. Why is it happening now? Functional fragrance subtly diverges from traditional aromatherapy in its cultural bracketing and historical routing. The frame that floats functional fragrance is an obsession with hyperperformance and personality optimisation through artificially intelligent diagnostics, thriving within today’s hive headspace of anxiety epidemics and fear of missing out (FOMO) in the experience economy. In contrast, aromatherapy evokes post-war images of group meditation for some younger demographics and continually ebbed and flowed in and out of public conscious-

Sound familiar? Perez gave a nod to the aromatherapy industry in her note that “what used to be simply a laven-

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Special Article ness from the 1970s to today with varying degrees of success. Functional fragrance presents new-to-market brands a chance to revive the values of aromatherapy under a new title and of-themoment concerns. Running with a parallel argument, Forbes contributor Deborah Weinswig thinks that “in an era in which so many catalogue their lives on social media, looking great, feeling good and sleeping well are the new luxuries that consumers want to enjoy and flaunt,” continuing that “owning the most expensive or the latest goods has taken a back seat to looking good and feeling good, and consumers are showing an increasing preference for participating in activities and indulging in experiences that promote their well-being.” In corroboration, reporter Zoe Weiner notes that “in 2002, the hottest new perfumes were all about smelling like either cotton candy or your favourite pop star... Fast forward 16 years...we’ve started spritzing ourselves for a very, very different reason: to feel better.” With a savvy consumer base that is demanding more efficacious and emotionally fulfilling solutions from every consumer product on the shelf, the winners will be those that understand the power of brand empathy in the digital age and offer ever-more bespoke ways for people to shape who they are, how they perform and how they feel by using non-invasive tools that have the ability to respond in real time to the changing physical and emotional needs of the user. The priorities of global tech innovation are largely the same, and aromatherapeutic programmes have the potential to achieve high impact in the high-tech frameworks of the near future, as suggested by biotech experimenter Zyto. For several years now, wearable devices have gathered data about our heart rates, how many calories we burn, and even our galvanic skin response. 34

– think the office (concentration), gym (energy) or dating (confidence).

This and other data [in the future] will be gathered to create ‘digital selfies’ of individuals. Our digital doubles will be recognisable to machines and therefore will be able to be decoded for enhanced well-being... smartphones will be able to use data to understand our behaviour patterns and recognize our emotions in real time. Technologies that determine these states and behaviours that could be attached to apps include facial recognition, voice recognition, and biometric sensors. In turn, apps will be capable of communicating our emotional state and making recommendations for improving our well being in real time. With unease, Dazed Digital’s Geraldine Wharry points out that “we hacked nature during the second industrial revolution without facing the long-term consequences on our planet. Today, we are onto our next challenge: hacking the brain and the human body... Wellness is our era’s catalyst,” echoed by researcher Ophelia Yeung’s remark that “as people incorporate more of the wellness values into their lifestyle, our interaction with the wellness economy is also becoming less episodic and more intentional, more integrative, and more holistic... Everything is merging as companies capitalize on wellness, making it harder to separate markets into individual buckets”. The platform of functional fragrance could be poised to steal the wellness podium as a manifest form of mindfulness that could exploit the multiplicity of touchpoints at which finer curation of your emotions would be helpful

How far can it go? Despite predictions that the global aromatherapy market will reach US$9.57-bn by 2026, some are concerned about the recent drop in pace of inner market activity. Functional fragrance, and the F&F industry more widely, present a huge opportunity for aromatherapy that has room to grow. The fragrance sector is much larger, expected to inflate to US$91.17-bn by 2025; the wellness market overall, including all product and sub-categories, is even larger than that and was valued in 2018 at US$4.2 trillion, growing 12.8% from 2016 and representing 5.3% of global economic output. Instead of worrying about potential oversaturation and inability to induct new aromatherapy users from extraneous markets, it may be smarter to strategise tactics for how to convert the sea of wellness advocates into recognising the benefits that aromatherapy has to offer to their current wellness regime. If the aromatherapy world doesn’t maintain pace with the rest of the innovation ecosystem in beauty, wellness, tech and beyond, then there is a high risk that it will lose its edge in a marketplace that is providing ever more diverse and niche products and services through which consumers can tackle their emotional wellbeing. A reinvigorated effort to fine-tune phytochemical research and further validate the usefulness of essential oils for addressing the concerns of the contemporary user will ensure that naturals remain a cornerstone solution for mood modification. As more and more consumers look for superlative functionality in their fragrances, the role of natural essential oils and the values they represent will become increasingly important in a society obsessed with hyper-performance. eDDIe BULLIQI

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Co-located with

HPIC India 2020

International Exhibition on Ingredients for Home, Personal & Institutional Care

India 2020 India's leading International Exhibition on Fine & Speciality Chemicals

August 19-20, 2020 Hall 1 l Bombay Exhibition Centre Mumbai

Exhibitor Profile: Ÿ Aroma Chemicals Ÿ Biocides Ÿ Bleaches Ÿ Emollients, Waxes & Oils Ÿ Enzymes Ÿ Essential Oils Ÿ Fragrances Ÿ Herbal Extracts Ÿ Laboratory, Research & Testing Equipment Ÿ Packaging Machinery Ÿ Raw Materials & Ingredients Ÿ Surfactants Ÿ UV Filters ...... and many more

LEARN NETWORK EXPLORE

At Onsite Seminars & Workshops With Global Ingredient & Raw Material Suppliers New Opportunities in the Home, Personal & Institutional Care Industry

To exhibit please contact: Mr. Rohit Pande Tel: +91-22-24044472 (Extn: 115) Mob: +91-98202-24550 Email: rohit@chemicalweekly.com

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Special Article

Orchid in cosmetics The orchid is a flower that is well known for its beauty and fragrance. These highly decorated flowers are acknowledged as a symbol of beauty, refinement and love. Often utilised in perfumes and fragrance products, the use of orchids has branched out into skin care, hair care and even colour cosmetics as the demand for natural ingredients is constantly increasing.

extracts of Orchis maculata were still prescribed in Europe at the beginning of the nineteenth century as a treatment for tuberculosis.

Orchis mascula is native from Europe to Asia Minor. It is well known in Ayurvedic phyto-therapy and it was the basis of creams with emollient effect and it may have a slight activity against infection. Orchis mascula contains anthocyanis that give the pinkish colour of the flowers and mucilage. Fragrances for both genders often have notes of orchid. It has been used in Asia for centuries, mostly for its reparative and protective properties. However, the use of orchid extract and orchid complex in these categories has become more popular in the United States only in recent years, according to Mintel Cosmetic Research. Orchids are now being touted for moisturizing, fighting free radicals, increasing skin immunity and reducing the appearance of fine lines. The family of orchids (Orchidaceae) grows nearly everywhere in the world. Those special plants have existed on the planet for around 120-mn years! Orchids are not only beautiful; they are also masters in the art of survival and can become over 100 years old. They symbolize a blooming, beautiful and ageless life and are often called ‘the queen of flowers’. In Europe, orchids are primarily known for their value as ornamental plants. However, they often serve a higher purpose in other parts of the 36

world – as a perfume, as a food and for making tea or tobacco. Active ingredients All kinds of orchids have the ability to store great amounts of water and they are rich in natural polysaccharides and antioxidant phenols. This impressive natural combination of active ingredients makes orchids very attractive for luxurious cosmetic products. Orchid extract stimulates skin cell vitality and supports the cellular metabolism. It promotes the ability of cells to regenerate, strengthens the cell membrane and protects the skin’s immune system.

Spotted orchids have tuberous roots full of a highly nutritious starchlike substance called Bassorin. The roots are dried and ground into a fine yellowish-white powder that is made into a drink called salep. Known for its nutritive, expectorant and astringent properties, salep originated in the Middle East, India and parts of China. It has been used as a very nutritious diet for children and convalescents; one ounce of salep is said to be enough to sustain a person for a day. For this reason, it was particularly popular in Europe during the Middle Ages until the beginning of the twentieth century when its popularity faded. Phytochemicals present Spotted orchids, so named because of the characteristic colouring of its leaves, contain orchicyanin I, orchicyanin II and cyanin, all of which belong to a group of plant pigments called anthocyanins. These anthocyanins are part of the plant’s protective mechanism as anthocyanins are synthesized in response to environmental stressors such as UV radiation, temperature extremes, drought, disease and pollution.

Anthocyanins are also part of a larger group of phytochemicals called Very common throughout Europe, flavonoids, which are known for their the spotted orchid, Orchis maculata, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory can be found growing in a variety capabilities. Certain flavonoids includof habitats from woodlands and ing anthocyanin pigments have reacmeadows to marshes and alongside tive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging lakes and rivers. The abundance of abilities up to four times greater than spotted orchids was advantageous, vitamins E and C. Because of its since they were held in great repute antioxidative and astringent properties, in herbal medicine, being largely orchids may help increase tone, while employed as a strengthening and minimizing oxidative stress and soothing agent. As a matter of fact, delivering a soothing aesthetic. Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Special Article range of skin care has orchid extract. Researchers at Guerlain discovered that the orchid’s beauty and ‘eternal youth’ could be traced to the cells found deep within its roots; thus they worked to reproduce the same functionality.

Skin and hair care applications Spotted orchid extract is useful in skin and hair care applications where formulators are interested in capitalising on the trend for natural botanicals that deliver functional benefits. They are not only beautiful, but apparently they are known to reduce the look of ine lines and wrinkles, act as an antioxidant and hume tant that moisturizes, soothes and conditions our skin. In fact, it is one of skincare’s latest beauty secrets. Helping women of all ages restore and maintain a bright and radiant complexion, orchid extract works to achieve smooth and flawless skin tone. Benefits of orchid extracts are many as: It contains minerals that exist naturally in the skin, such as calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and zinc that help nourish skin. It counteracts the signs of aging, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving the skin’s overall appearance. It helps regulate skin pigmentation, allowing natural coloration. It increases cell production improving skin’s strength, smoothness, and elasticity. Product launches Many products have been launched having orchid extract.

Porcelain, The Face Spa has launched a new addition to its exclusive and proprietary Revive range with a pre-cleaner that also double up as a makeup cleanser. Enriched with orchid extracts, the cleanser possesses a subtle floral scent. Its high concentration of skin-nourishing ingredients helps provide anti-oxidation and skin conditioning. On top of that, it is paraben-free and sulphatefree, ensuring suitability for daily use, even on the most sensitive skin. The ultra-gentle cleanser is ideal as a first-step cleansing solution for frequent makeup users, as it loosens impurities in the skin, allowing it to breathe, whilst providing deep hydration at the same time. Perhaps one of the most publicized cosmetic products featuring orchid is Cargo PlantLove Botanical Lipstick. The lipstick features a botanical formulation with orchid complex and meadowfoam seed oil. In Japan, orchid extract is used in several highly visible skin care lines. The Kanebo Twany line features orchid extract in many of its whitening products. Kosè Infinity launched several brightening and anti-ageing products containing orchid extract. Guerlain

Orchidée

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Impériale

Ted Gibson hair care products also contain orchid extract. The Ted Gibson shampoos, conditioners, serums, and hair sheets all feature orchid extract. The orchid extract is said to help repair damaged hair, prevent moisture loss and promote health and manageability. The Goodnite Replenish Hair Repair Serum claims to use wild orchid extract to sooth the senses and the scalp. Orchid oil makes it’s hair-helping debut in White Sands’ Orchid Bliss Shampoo and Conditioner. The company found that orchid oil has serious hair benefits; it’s majorly light, but yet effective enough to hydrate even the most damaged ones. The super-creamy but totally not greasy St. Ives Naturally Indulgent Coconut Milk & Orchid Extract Body Lotion absorbs quickly, leaves skin super soft and smells fresh ocean air with a hint of exotic orchids and coconut. Conclusions Rose, jasmine, violet and lily are often incorporated into beauty products. While orchids don’t tend to have a distinctive fragrance, these stunning blooms are now also being tapped for a whole host of new skin care, haircare & colour cosmetics formulas. VINAY KUMAR SINGH Vice President-R&D Ganesha Personal Care Products Pvt. Ltd. Navi Mumbai E-mail: vinay@gpcppl.com 37

New Market Launches CLEANER & GREENER

Bio-based soil release polymers for laundry detergent Clariant, one of the leading suppliers of ingredients for the industrial and home care cleaning segment, has combined best in class fibre protection against dirt, with sustainability benefits, in its new soil release polymer for laundry detergents. The company said it will soon launch TexCare SRN 260 Life, which is “bio-based, unlike other soil release polymers in the laundry detergent segment which are synthetically sourced, and has an 80% Renewable Carbon Index (RCI), making it more sustainable than any other soil release polymer used in liquid detergents and cleaners”. “This latest addition to our TexCare range gives the producers of laundry liquid detergents, particularly green-oriented brands, a unique soil release polymer,” said Clariant’s

Head of Strategic Marketing and Innovation, Mr. Ralf Zerrer. “With its carbon and bio-based credentials, we developed TexCare SRN 260 Life to meet the growing consumer demand for more environment-friendly products. Indeed, recent forecasts expect the ‘green’ segment of the industrial & home care sector to grow by 6.5% until at least 2024,” he added.

In laboratory tests conducted by Clariant, fabrics washed with this polymer came out up to “six times cleaner than those washed with detergent only”. TexCare SRN 260 Life also prevented the redeposition of dirt during washing, which is the main culprit for greying, almost two times better than a standard detergent alone, the company added.

SKIN CARE

Peptide-based active ingredient for skin Croda subsidiary, Sederma, has launched Synchrolife, a peptidebased active ingredient, which helps resynchronise cellular life to uplift skin beauty and wellbeing. The benefits offered by the ingredient includes realigning circadian rhythms, counteracting effects of digital pollution, erasing signs of fatigue and delivering neuro-beauty benefits. According to Sederma, the ingredient has been demonstrated to rebalance the production of circadian key players after a blue light stress to ensure better repairing metabolism. “By resynchronising biological 38

T2 months

rhythms, Synchrolife counteracts the harmful effects of digital pollution that generate stressing signs of fatigue and premature ageing and al-

lows feeling more beautiful. Its natural origin content according to the ISO 16128 standard is 99.905%,” the company stated.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

New Market Launches NATURAL COSMETIC INGREDIENT

Tackling digital stress on skin Givaudan’s cosmetics unit, Active Beauty, has launched Synchronight, a natural active cosmetic ingredient targeting the effects of “digital” stress on skin. This new ingredient is derived from an extract of dried fruit of gardenia, sourced from the Guangxi region, in China. Acting as a natural shield, it prevents the blue light emitted by screens from disrupting the skin’s melatonin production cycle. The ingredient acts as a shield against external aggressions linked to today’s digital lifestyles, allowing skin melatonin to play its natural role in regulating the sleep-wake cycle. Synchronight, which is activated by the

microbiome, stimulates skin rejuvenation and preserves the natural skin melatonin release cycle, resulting in younger skin and better sleep, Givaudan said in a statement.

allows the extraction of some phytochemicals that are not always fully soluble in lipid or water phases.

Developed at the company’s ‘Green Fractionation Centre of Excellence’ in Avignon, France, the new innovation is targeted at “consumers who are searching for new ways to improve their lives with beauty products adapted to their digital lifestyles”. The active ingredient is obtained using the NaDES technology patented by Naturex (a company which is now part of Givaudan) that

Synchronight will be launched in the form of a night cream called, “My Blue Guard High Performance” that features DreamScentz, a fragrance technology aimed to enhance the sleep experience. Other potential applications include anti-aging serums and creams, night creams, well-being products, skincare for younger age groups and cosmetics to preserve from modern lifestyle damages, the company noted.

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Expo & Conference News DATES CHANGED

Leading personal care events around the world postponed due to coronavirus outbreak The Covid-19 outbreak is continuing to turn the global calendar of international events upside down and the personal & home care industry is no exception. Leading global events in this sector which have been postponed include HPIC India, ISDC 2020, In-cosmetics Global, World Perfumery Congress (WPC), Cosmoprof and PCHi China. The 5th edition of ‘HPIC India’ – the leading trade fair featuring companies dealing in ingredients for home, personal & institutional care sectors, and co-located with the fine and speciality chemicals expo, Chemspec India, scheduled for April 16-17, 2020, was postponed by the organisers. The expo – and other co-located events – will now take place on August 19-20, 2020 at the same venue in Mumbai. “The uncertainties emerging out of the worldwide spread of the corona virus has created a situation where we felt we would not be in a position to deliver the quality show that our clients have come to expect,” Mr. Vijay Raghavan, Director, Chemspec India Pvt. Ltd., the organiser of the events, said in a press statement. Meanwhile, the 6th International Convention and Exhibition on Soaps Detergents and Cosmetics (ISDC 2020), originally scheduled to be held in July in Goa was postponed to 6-8 September 2020. According to a statement from the organiser, Indian Home & Personal Care Industry Association (IHPCIA), the decision was taken in “light of recent developments with the COVID-19 virus and the widespread concern for the travel restrictions imposed on specific countries 40

and by companies”. The venue and location for the convention remain unchanged. The organiser of the leading personal care ingredients exhibition, Incosmetics Global, Reed Exhibitions, put out a statement informing about the postponement of the event originally scheduled to take place from 31 March to 2 April 2020 in Barcelona (Spain) to 30 June to 2 July 2020 “following the escalation of Covid-19 in Europe”. Speaking about the announcement, Ms. Cathy Laporte, Portfolio Director at Reed Exhibitions, said, “After many weeks monitoring the evolving situation around COVID-19 and the notices issued by the World Health Organisation and other relevant governments and local authorities, and in close coordination with all partners involved, we have postponed the event to June.” The organisers of the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) – Perfumer & Flavorist and the American Society of Perfumers – announced its decision to

postpone the event to December 15-17, 2020. The event was originally scheduled to be held from June 2-4, 2020 in Miami Florida, USA. “This has been a difficult and unprecedented decision for a difficult and unprecedented moment. Postponing the 2020 WPC will allow us to regroup and deliver the safe environment and top-notch fragrance event our industry deserves,” they said. Following news of rising Covid-19 cases in Northern Italy, BolognaFiere, the organiser of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna decided to postpone the event from March 12-15 to September 3-7, 2020. With more than 265,000 visitors and more than 3,000 exhibiting companies in 2019, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is one of the largest trade fairs for the global cosmetics industry. As reported earlier in these columns, the first event in the personal care sector to be postponed was the Chinese exhibition, Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi). The 13th edition of the trade fair, organised by Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE), was originally scheduled for 26-28 February 2020 in Shanghai but was postponed to 2-4 June 2020.

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

Meetings & Conferences INDIA

2-4 | Shanghai, China

August 2020

September 2020 3-7 | Bologna, Italy

19-20 | Mumbai HPIC India 2020 HPIC India & MackBrooks Exhibitions : Rohit Pande  : +91-9820224550  : Rohit@chemicalweekly.com : Hpicindiaexpo.com INTERNATIONAL

May 2020 6-7 | Prague, Czech Republic

The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients Trade Show 2020 Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions : Shawn Liu  : +86-10-8455-6635  : Shuangyang.Liu@reedsino pharm.com 17-18 | London, UK

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.  : +39-02-796420  : Info@cosmoprof.it : Www.cosmoprof.com/en/ 28-30 | New York, USA

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Sustainability & Naturals in Cosmetics Conference Smithers : Sally Bradley  : +44-0-1372 802000  : Sbradley@smithers.com : www.cosmeticsconferences.com/

Ecovia Intelligence Skin Microbiome Industry Summit Active Communications Europe Ltd. (ACI) : Rafael Krupa  : +48-0-61-898-7070  : Rafael@acieu.net

June 2020 2-3 | London, UK

7th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conferece Summit-Events

 : 44-208-567-0788  : Info@sustainablecosmetics summit.com : Www.sustainablecosmetics summit.com December 2020 15-17 | Miami, Florida

30 June-2 July | Barcelona, Spain

In-cosmetics Global

World Perfumery Congress 2020

Reed Exhibitions Ltd.

Allured Business Media

: Rana Khoury

 : +020-7828-2278

 : +44-0-20-8439-5436

 : Eventteam@summit-events.com : Summit-events.com

 : Rana.khoury@reedexpo.co.uk : In-cosmetics.com/global/

Home, Personal & Institutional Care India March 2020

: Deniz Ataman  : +630-344-6070  : Dataman@allured.com : Worldperfumerycongress.com 41

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CAS No. 91-62-3 65442-31-1 67634-06-4 93-19-6 65442-31-1 7403-42-1 68083-58-9 1708-34-5 36306-87-3 4351-10-4 137-03-01 7070-15-7 Not Known Not Known

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Articles inside

Orchid in cosmetics Vinay Kumar Singh

Alkyl polyglucosides: Bio-based and biodegradable surfactants for home and personal care

CABB supplies precursors for hygiene and disinfection products

Founding family puts Super Vasmol brand of hair colours on the block

FMCG companies ramp up capacities to meet demand for hygiene products

Firmenich achieves 100% renewable electricity at all its global operations

Unilever launches its first 100% recycled plastic toothbrush

Firmenich to acquire French ingredients supplier, DRT

Cosmetics makers switch to hand sanitisers as demand rockets

Henkel mulls selling underperforming consumer brands; in race for Coty unit