f ixture design for LINGERIE
design PROJECT study of FIXTURE & FURNITURE topic SELECTION82 evolution of BRA secondary RESEARCH primary RESEARCH brand STUDY types of FIXTURE & DISPLAY design Research SURVEY opportunity AREA design BRIEF Concept SKETCHES mastering the cup size GAME auto cad technical DRAWING 3d concept DRAWING the MAKING appearance PROTOTYPE visual MERCHANDISING
This course helps students to demonstrate their ability to design, handle various materials and details for furniture in a retail context. It helps students to select specific materials as well as manufacturing processes to be used for specific products. This course helps students to understand the inter-relationship between the different components of man and his environment which is very essential for Retail Design to make the system user-friendly.
study of FIXTURE & FURNITURE In the beginning of the design project we had to study retail fixture and furniture. How the retailers display their merchandise, which type of fixtures/furnitures are being used, what type of material is in trend etc.? This was kind of warm-up exercise which helps us to get into the environment.
Local Market Survey Local markets have their own way of display norms. They have not researched much about which product/merchandise can look better on which kind of fixture. Sometimes you are amazed to see how they display by the means of jugaad.
Brand Outlet Survey All brands have unique guidline systems which they circulate to every showroom across country. They make sure all showrooms adhere to the same language. Fixture generally used:- Hanging rail, Water Fall, Gondola, Nestinting Table, 3 way, 4 way water fall.
topic SELECTION
Complex display pattern of medicine is a painful task for retailer. In the Lingerie category there are no innovations in fixture. Mostly retailers display lingerie on same fixture on which they display other merchandise (e.g., shirt, pant, Skirt, Dresses). Accessories panel in fashion and lifestyle brand is one of the most unorganized area in whole showroom.
Final Topic In the Lingerie category there are no innovation in fixture. Mostly retailers display lingerie on same fixture on which they display other merchandise (e.g., shirt, pant, Skirt, Dresses).
Lingerie?
Any
outfit worn by a women loses its charm if she is not wearing a perfect Bra underneath. A bra is not only a piece of inner wear but is also responsible for how confidently you carry yourself in public. The right kind of bra not only is good for the health of your breasts but also affects the way your dresses look on you.
evolution of BRA The Corset Is Split In France, the first modern bra was born, called the corselet gorge (“the well-being.”), when Herminie Cadolle cut a corset into two separate undergarments — the top supported the breasts by means of straps, while the lower part was a corset for the waist. In 1905, they started selling these new “bras” alone.
The First Bandeau It paid to be a female minoan athlete during the 1300s. Wall paintings depicted them wearing bandeau-like tops (for support - or to cover) while Playing Sports. Until then women were generally Bare-breated under simple sheath dresses
14th
16th
1869
The Look Is Flat Small-chested and slender-bodied flappers took over in the Roaring Twenties, and they ditched the corsets almost completely. Instead, they opted for tight bandeau tops that flattened women’s breasts to give them a more boyish shape.
1910
1920
1932
Age of the the Corset
The Modern Bra
Cup Sizes Emerge
The first major shift in women’s undergarments was the corset. Women in France embraced it in the early 1500s to acieve the perfect female figure - an inverted cone shape. They flattened women’s breast, pushing them upwardalmost to th point where they were falling out of their dresses
Even after the corset and bra were officially split, there was still the issue of comfort. Enter Mary Phelps Jacob, who invented the first modern bra with a pair of silk handkerchiefs and silk ribbons — sans the stiff whalebone.
In the 1930s, the brassiere is eventually shortened to the common “bra”
Torpedo Style
First Sports Bra
During World War II, more and more women were working in factories. Thus, the bullet/torpedo-shaped bra gained popularity because of claims that it offered added protection for girls who worked on the production lines.
1940
Bejeweled and Expensive Gisele Bündchen’s ruby and diamond-encrusted bra and underwear set, which she wore during the 2000 Victoria’s Secret fashion show, were valued at a whopping $15 million. It’s still the most expensive lingerie set ever.
As exercising and fitness became more popular, there was a need for something much more supportive. Thankfully, the first sports bra — appropriately called the “Jogbra” — hit the scene.
1964
The Pushup Bra A Canadian lingerie company designs the Wonderbra — the first of its kind to lift and push the bustline together.
1940
1977
Dawn of Victoria’s Secret The same year the first sports bra debuted, the first Victoria’s Secret opened up in Palo Alto, California. Fun fact: Founder Roy Raymond (and his wife!) came up with the idea of a women’s lingerie-only shop because he felt uncomfortable shopping for his wife in department stores.
2000
2009
Present The 2000s brought an onslaught of new designs like strapless, one Straps, and even aresurgence of corset bras. You can even buy cups made with memory foam that conform to the shape of your chest.
secondary RESEARCH
29 Types of Bra Designs and Their Functions Developed late in the nineteenth century, this feminine icon has since been viewed as a symbol of a girl’s coming of age. The bra not only covers, supports and elevates the breasts, but also shapes the wearer’s figure. The degree to which the bra frames the breasts varies between style, functionality, fashion and fabric.
1
2
3
Adhesive Bra/Stick-On Bra
Bandeau Bra
Balconette/Demi Bra
Good for: Women with self supported Breasts Wear Beneath: Backless and Strapless Outfits.
Good For: Girls who have just hit puberty Wear Beneath: Nightwear, Casual wear at home, Strapless tube tops
Good for: Either larger or smaller busts Wear Beneath: Low cut Dresses or tops
4
5
6
Belly Dance Bra
Bridal Bra/Corset
Built-in Bra
Good for: Women with larger Breasts. Wear Beneath: Belly Dance Costumes.
Good for: For all type of busts. Wear Beneath: Wedding Dresses, Tight Fitted Dresses.
Good for: Women who hate wearing Bras! Wear Beneath: Tank Tops, Bulky dresses, Lounge wear.
7
8
9
Cupless/Shelf Bra
Convertible/Multiway Bra
Front Closure Bra
Good for: Lingeries wear Wear Beneath: Night dresses, Night Gowns
Good for: All Purpose Bra Wear Beneath: Any dress you want to
Good for: Women who have heavy breasts Wear Beneath: Tight Dressess
10
11
12
Full Coverage Bra
Halter Neck Bra
Mastectomy Bra
Good for: Heavy Busted Women Wear Beneath: Work wear, Casual Wear
Good for: Gym Wear Wear Beneath: Backless or Low Back Dresses or Tops
Good for: Those who have undergone mastectomy for breast cancer
16
17
18
Maternity Bra
Peephole Bra
Strapless Bra
Good for: Pregnant women.
Good for: Lingerie Wear Wear Beneath: Sensual Lingerie, Nightgowns
Good for: Subtle Bust sizes Wear Beneath: Halter Tops, Low Neck dresses
13
14
15
Novelty Bra
Underwire Bra
Push-Up Bra
Good for: Women With larger Bust Sizes Wear Beneath: Any outfits
Good for: Women with subtle Breasts Wear Beneath: Deep necklines
Good for: Sensual Wear Wear Beneath: Beachwear, Pool Parties
19
20
21
Minimizer Bra
Padded Bra
Vintage Bra
Good for: Women who have heavy breasts
Good for: Women with smaller Breasts Wear Beneath: T-shirts, Dresses with Thin fabric
Good for: Women With larger Bust Sizes Wear Beneath: Any dress you want to
22
23
24
25
Sheer Bra
Plunge Bra
Triangle Bra
Good for: Lingerie wear Wear Beneath: Night Gowns
Good for: Women with welltoned busts Wear Beneath: Low Necklines
Good for: Women With Small Busts Wear Beneath: Bikinis, Beach Wear
T-shirt Bra
26
27
Trainer Bra
Soft Cup Bra
Good for: Women with developing breasts Wear Beneath: Any Dress
Good for: Daily Wear Wear Beneath: All outfits
28
Racer Back Bra/Sports Bra Good for: Women who workout, Sports Women Wear Beneath: T-shirts
Good for: All Purpose Bra Wear Beneath: Any dress you want
29
Nursing Bra Good for: Nursing Mothers
11 Types of Panty Designs and Their Functions They might not be shown much, but its pretty clear that 99 percent of women wear an underwear almost every second of their lives. Underwears are very much a part of us, like the air we breathe. No matter how much you compromise on your wardrobe, your inner wear holds the comfort of your days and requires careful consideration of how and what to choose when you shop for them. Women have plenty of variations when it comes to their underwear and this time we bring out to you the various varieties that you might get in the market. From what you have been wearing all your life, you would be amazed to know how each type has its own beauty and lets you times you should pick them over other.
1
2
3
Boy Shorts
Classic Briefs
French Cut Panties
When To wear: These have no visible panty lines so you can use them as things under tight fitted clothes. They can be worn under skater skirts or as loungewear or swimwear.
When To wear: You might wear them under high waited lowers and jeans or during the bad times of the month.
When To wear:You might love them as regular wear as long as high waist doesn’t bother you. Pick them up for a beach walk with a loose shirt or a sarong.
5
6
Hipsters
Tanga
G-String
When To wear: With low waist jeans and skirts.
When To wear: Post pregnancy, Bodycon dresses and skirts.
When To wear: Sunbathing or a beach wear.
7
8
9
Thongs
Control Briefs
C String
When To wear: Bodycon dress or skirts to avoid panty lines.
When To wear: Post pregnancy, Bodycon dresses and skirts.
When To wear: Sunbathing, Swimwear, Loungewear.
4
10a
10b
10c
Regular Brazilian Cut Brazilian
One Side Knot Brazilian Brief
Two side Knot Brazilian Brief
When to Wear: Beachwear, Swimwear Brazilian Brief often come under 3 different cuts.
11
Tap Pant When To wear: Best for: Dance shorts, Nightwear, Leisure wear.
international BRAND
Boux-Avenue
Robinsons
Aerie
Bras Are Expensive Bras are essential to our everyday functioning, or so the society has socialised us into believing. Their only function is to act as an anti-gravity device, and yet, they cost so much! The tragedy of the situation is that the cost of most lingerie brands is directly proportionate to their quality. The better the bra, the more likely it is to burn a hole in your pocket. I’ve often heard friends saying things like, “Man, this bra fits so well. It costs a bomb, but it’s like an investment!” How did we start saying such absurd things! I get that bras occupy a very intimate space in our lives and that they must perform their jobs well. But if they are so necessary, why are good quality bras so out of our reach? I demand that bras be made affordable. #MakeBrasGreatAgain
The Myth of the Ideal Bra The ideal bra is like a unicorn. Except that the unicorn is the national animal of Scotland. There is more empirical evidence for a one-horned horse than there is for a perfect bra. You might find a bra that fits well, but chances are that it won’t remain flawless for very long. And you definitely won’t find one that is suited for all outfits.
You Outgrow Bras It’s only when you wear a bra that you truly understand the strange ways in which fat gain and loss work. And it’s not just your cup size that changes every time you lose or gain weight. The length of your straps and the fit of the band change too. The result is that one fine day you wake up and realize that your bra has betrayed you. And you must give it up.
Bras Outgrow You Much like the people in your life, your bras change with time too. You’ll be fascinated by your latest purchase and want to wear with every outfit. After using it for a few months, it’ll turn into your ‘comfort’ bra – your go-to when you know you’re going to have a long day and you have to be comfortable. Somewhere down the line it’ll die a slow death; the cups may lose their shape, the hooks on the buckle may come off, or it’ll just start wearing out. But the worst of these is the underwire. It decides to strike you when you least expect it. One second you’re pouring yourself a cup of coffee at work, and the next, your underwire is peeping out to say hello with a painful poke.
primary RESEARCH The brands I visited during my field visit. Wonder love Zivame Enamor Amante Jockey Triumph Lovable Marks & Spencer Forever 21 Valentine
brand STUDY
A woman is a million different people every day. Sometimes a mother and sometimes the funny one in the group. Sometimes a best friend and sometimes a daughter. However, her most intimate relationship is the one with herself. We believe that lingerie is an extension of that relation. It is more than just about ‘sex appeal’. It is the way she decides to feel every day. There is more to her than what she shows. Zivame celebrates all that she is to the world, and all that she is to herself. We believe in the power of embracing the unknown, the intimate side of stories. That is the most capturing of all discovery. We are her companions in the journey of self-exploration. And building confidence through it. Confidence is Sexy and we help women find it, wear it and be it every day.
Brand Imagery
Types of FIXTURE & DISPLAY Nesting table, Mannequin, Wall hanging,
Design Research SURVEY
Finding the Right Size
I could
write a thesis on this. The progression in sizes is not as obvious as it may seem. One year you could be a 30 C, and the next you could need a 32 B rather than a 30 D or 32 C. Some odd, unexplainable logic seems to guide which bra I should buy next. Figuring out your own size can be difficult if you don’t have help. Thankfully, help usually comes in various forms, whether it is your girlfriends who will over-analyse the situation, or the ‘bra aunties’ and ‘bra bhaiyyas’ at local undergarment shops. Bra aunties and bhaiyyas specialise in guessing your cup size by merely looking at you, which is creepy, uncomfortable, and commendable at the same time. What amazes me is that they speak with so confidence, and at most times, they get it right too! The struggle of finding the right bra does not take away from joy of finding one that fits like a glove.
The Right Bra for the Right Occasion There many species of bras, and each comes with its own characteristics and purposes. Padded bras and push up bras are not interchangeable. Strapless ones will never be as comfortable as regular ones, but are still needed. The point is that they aren’t interchangeable. And most women I know have a formula when it comes to outfits; they do a mental calculation of what they are wearing and pair it with the bra that is best suited. Doing that calculation every day can get exhausting. And then there is the question of colour. Wearing a white bra under a white top can lead to headlighting, which means that your bra will be visible from under your top. God forbid some deer run into you.
Current displays have wide Hangers, bust mannequin, mannequin, nesting table or gondola display. Though majorly lingeries are displayed with hangers everywhere in India or abroad.
1
Cannot display size wise. The issue with hanger is you cannot adjust the size according to the lingerie (bra & panty) size.
2
Lingeries are displayed in two ways on hanger :a) By straps:- When you hang a bra by its straps, with time it will lose its elasticity.
b) By cup:- When you hang a bra by its cup , consumers gets confused and they are not clearly able to understand the categorization in display.
3
According to surveys, consumers are not aware of activities or occasions in relation to lingerie. They do not know which type of lingerie goes with which type of dresses.
You cannot have mannequins for every category of lingerie. a) Showroom has limited space. b) High investment. You cannot display different cup size of same band size bra.
Design BRIEF
To design a fixture for Lingerie(Bra) which gives information about Sizing and Ocassion/Activity with Adjustable Cup sizes within same band size.
Challenge is to design a fixture which solves the problems I found during my secondary and primary research.
1.
Customers are struggling to find desired Size.
2.
They don’t know about the type of bra(Ocassion/Activity)
3.
Limitation of Hanger and mannequin (discussed in opportunity Area).
Concept SKETCHES
1
2
From these two sketches I arrived to the final concept.
1.
Adjustable Cup size through Spring mechanism The advantage of the adjustable Cup size will give opportunity to the retailer to display different Cup sizes within same band size. e.g., On 32 band size fixture you can accommodate different Cup sizes.
2.1
Ocassion/Activity Presently there are almost 29 types of bra and each bra has unique contour(outline) to differentiate from the other. Most of the people don’t know about how many kinds of bras are available, they don’t know which kind of bra would suit the dress , ocassion/activity. They are unaware of the importance of choosing the correct bra. Wrong bra causes health issue like Breast cancer, back pain etc.
2.2
Sizing issue is taken care of by increasing the size of fixture as the bra size increases.
Current display system of lingerie is pathetic. you are not able to find desired size due to visual cluttered (On same size of hanger they display all sizes of bra).
Studies show that our brains not only process visuals faster, but they also retain and transmit much more information when it’s delivered visually.
mastering the cup size GAME
Cup size
is a representation of breast projection.
C
D
E
Base of the cup remain same when body diameter gets increases with same band size.
Same Cup size with different band size
34 D 4 inch 3 inch 2 inch
1 inch
36 D 4 inch 3 inch 2 inch
1 inch
38 D 4 inch 3 inch 2 inch
1 inch
With same cup size and different band size the base (diameter) of the cup also increases
This is how merchandise can be displayed on slat wall in showroom.
If the Band size increases the Cup size will remain same (Height of cup).
If the Band size is same the Cup size will increase
Note :- For more understanding please refer next page photograph
Representation of the relationship between CUP SIZE and different BAND SIZE
auto cad technical DRAWING Front View Of Slat wall and Podium
Note:- Measurement in CM
Side & Top View of Slat wall and Podium
Note:- Measurement in CM
Front View Different Category (Full overage, Strapless & T-shirt) of Bra
Note:- Measurement in MM
Component For Slat Wall
Note:- Measurement in CM
3d concept DRAWING Material finishes detail.
Graphic print on vnyl sticker
Polycarbonate black in color
Duco finish
Handle Stainless Steel
5mm thick Polycarbonate Stainless steel (ss) with nut & bolt
Appearance of fixture in 3D retail space
the MAKING
Drafting actual size for reference
3D Concept Drawing
Bust Making on lath
Vaccume forming
Tracing the contour on wacom
Drafting on Cad
Prepairing for the spring & pegs
Prepairing spring bust with stretchable cloth and cut out
Photoshoot of Final prototype
Full coverage bra fixture design process
Basic Contour of bra
Adding extra 1 cm around the basic contour to give support to the bra
T-shirt Bra Fixture Design process
Basic Contour of bra
Adding extra 1 cm around the basic contour to give support the bra
appearance PROTOTYPE
32
C
T-shirt Bra
This fixture can be used as a table display as well as wall display. This display system is meant for table
T-shirt Bra displayed on slat wall
Adjustable cup size (spring mechanism) in T-shirt bra
Full coverage Bra displayed on slat wall
Full coverage Bra displayed on table
Adjustable cup size (spring mechanism) in Full coverage bra
Adjustable cup size (spring mechanism) in Strapless bra
Back support for table stand
skeleton T-shirt bra with adjustable cup size
skeleton ull coverage bra with adjustable cup size
visual MERCHANDISING
Communication Graphics for different category of bra for display panel.
Sizing signage
Merchandise presentation on a slat wall
Light Small
Neutral color should be color blocked seperately.
Large
Dark
Cut size stacks at the bottom
Why is Color Blocking Done Vertically? When a customer is looking for a particular type or style of garment, he/she should be able to access the entire of merchandise and thus all styles and colors of that particular garment. This is possible by arranging the merchandise vertically.
Merchandise presentation on a nesting table What are the cut sizes? Cut sizes are those garments for which the entire set of sizes/colors have been sold out. Cut Sized garments are therefore the last pieces left from any set. These cannot be stacked on the shelf with the rest of the merchandise since are incomplete and thus they cannot be color blocked individually. These are then placed at the bottom most shelves with the rest of the cut size.
Can display new arrival.
Display not more than 3 category/style at a time
Can display Cut sizes.
Cross merchandise with other garment like Panty, night dress.
Learnings • I able to understand the key ergonomics issues in the design of manmade spaces. • I exposed to materials and know how these materials commonly used in retail space. • Now able to articulate the retail knowledge in application of fixture design. • After the design process 2 I am able to combine the knowledge of material and process and its construction and the ability to develop specific furniture for specific use, context, scenario etc.
raju_k@nid.edu