RETAIL EXPERIENCE AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING
Rajvina Barker BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Technology Major Project Marketing Report 2015
“A broken heart can put you in a real emotional state of mind and an emotional state of mind can trigger creativity. It was me, with a broken heart, that could design a beautiful shoe.� REM D KOOLHAAS - 2013
October 2014
CONTENTS
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY MARKET RESEARCH TECHNOLOGICAL FACTORS SWOT COMPETITORS CUSTOMER PROFILE BRAND ANALYSIS & OBJECTIVES COMMUNICATIONS STRATEGY & PROMOTIONAL PLAN CONCLUSION APPENDIX FIGURES BIBLIOGRAPHY
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
United Nude is a women’s footwear brand, inspired by architectural design. Their visual aesthetic is strong and communicates unique, contemporary style. Eccentric designs and variety are fitting for a person that wants to express their individual taste and creative flair. Whether it’s for an outgoing and statement led occasion, to a formal and sophisticated situation, United Nude provide comfortable footwear that is long lasting and affordable for the quality and service provided. There are around 40 countries that sell the brand’s footwear, with flagship stores located in London, Amsterdam and New York. Products sold by UN include footwear for both men and women, with some styles being unisex, accessories and limited edition pieces, which are usually produced in collaboration with other designers and architects.
MARKET RESEARCH (macro environment)
High profiled celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Kim Kardashian and Lindsay Lohan wear their shoes, which results in worldwide recognition and an increase in customers.
RETAIL EXPERIENCE This is one aspect that contributes to more sales in a store and online. Shopping is used for many reasons other than to just browse and purchase new products. It can also be a therapeutic experience for a customer who finds that by spending, they gain a sense of relief or excitement. The main purpose of creating an enjoyable retail experience is to connect with current customers and attract future ones. For example, customisation enables a person to connect with the brand and their product, making them feel like they have control over what they want. This can be a personal activity for one person or a group to design and buy his or her own creations, or as a unique gift for another. A memory is an added benefit to the customer, and if positive, they will be likely to return or recommend the brand through conversation with friends and family. Another option is by sharing their opinions online, which can result in an increase of potential consumers.
A retail store is built up of a number of elements to create the appropriate indoor environment in which products are showcased in their best form, with the aim of selling and gaining a profit for the company. Not only is this all thought out for marketing purposes but also to create the correct ambience and atmosphere through the use of lighting, details, fixtures and colour schemes. As with any indoor area, the way to reflect light or create the illusion of more space is through the use of mirrors. This can be used in the usual way of pillars or near clothing rails so that customers can quickly try on a coat for example, rather than having to go to the changing room. Products can be showcased on glass or mirrored shelving to suggest a contemporary feel. A store is made up of a space hierarchy known as the decompression, discovery, primary, secondary, destination, perimeter walls and transitional selling space. The decompression space is where a customer enters the store, in which time they adjust to the space and it’s surroundings. Stock located at this point is generally ignored as customers look to walk around the whole store. Many retailers will keep stock that they most likely wish to sell at the right of the store, as customers tend to favour this direction. Impulse and outpost merchandising are other strategies used to encourage sales. Impulse merchandising is where smaller products are kept near cash desks so that while customers are queuing, they are tempted to buy a few extras. Examples of what is normally located in this area include; cosmetics, hair care, sweets, make-up, socks and phone cases. Umbrellas are also kept near entrances, sometimes conveniently moved to this area if weather conditions are particularly bad. Again, this is to persuade customers to buy as they can be expected to enter for this reason. It is a good idea to have an amount of natural light within a store as it can have less of an effect on the eyes in comparison to using harsh artificial lighting throughout which may cause customers to leave due to eye strain. As the day gets darker, there is no other option but to use indoor lighting but it must be located in the appropriate places so that products can be displayed looking their best and so that people walking around the store are able to view everything. Playing music that associates with the brand, store and occasion is crucial. It is one of the first thing’s customers will notice as they enter. In order to encourage sales, inspire or evoke a particular mood, the genre, tempo and pace of music must fit to the type of customers that visit. For example, contemporary brand ‘Superdry’ play upbeat; motivational remixes of current songs to lift the mood of customers. Innovation is something that is extremely important if a retail store wants to create something new with the instore environment rather than having displeased customers who are seeing the same techniques used through every store. People all over the world constantly use digital technology. For this reason, brand’s can integrate this into their online and Bricks and mortar environments by installing software that allows customer engagement. By keeping their attention, they will spend more time in store and the chances of expenditure are increased.
It is a good idea to have an amount of natural light within a store as it can have less of an effect on the eyes in comparison to using harsh artificial lighting throughout which may cause customers to leave due to eye strain. As the day gets darker, there is no other option but to use indoor lighting but it must be located in the appropriate places so that products can be displayed looking their best and so that people walking around the store are able to view everything. Playing music that associates with the brand, store and occasion is crucial. It is one of the first thing’s customers will notice as they enter. In order to encourage sales, inspire or evoke a particular mood, the genre, tempo and pace of music must fit to the type of customers that visit. For example, contemporary brand ‘Superdry’ play upbeat; motivational remixes of current songs to lift the mood of customers. Innovation is something that is extremely important if a retail store wants to create something new with the in-store environment rather than having displeased customers who are seeing the same techniques used through every store. People all over the world constantly use digital technology. For this reason, brand’s can integrate this into their online and Bricks and mortar environments by installing software that allows customer engagement. By keeping their attention, they will spend more time in store and the chances of expenditure are increased. 3D printing is slowly being introduced and developed with the opportunity to construct endless designs, shapes and scales, providing the suitable equipment is available to do so. While this may be seen as an absurd and impractical idea, the cost is essentially the most important component to discuss so that affordability is an option to people with different levels of income or specific budgets. Emotion is a key strategy to connect with customers. This can be used through visual merchandising with window displays created with a particular theme, message or story in mind. Seasonal themes are an easy option as retailers feel they can bring the outdoor environment into the store but this isn’t always enough to attract a person’s attention. Colour is a form of psychological connection with certain tones and shades evoking particular emotional feelings and mental state. Harrods generate grand window displays that are constantly transformed and create the illusion of another world. With themes based on current successful films, season’s and newly released products; this company is an inspiration to many. Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Liberty London and Stella McCartney are also recognised for their elaborate visual creations.
The journey to sale is something that all retail branches must consider when creating floor plans and in-store design concepts. When a customer walks in, they need to have an overall view of all or most products so that they can navigate through to whatever it is that they make be looking for. Everything in the store must flow up until a transaction is made. In order to create a successful product and representation of the brand itself, all details and elements must be carefully thought out so that the consumer will remember, identify the company easily and want to return to for more products in the future. Product tags, wash care labels and information on the origin of the product is always a significant part to clothing for example. When a customer is unsure or wishes to know more about the product, this is the first place that they should look. If they would like to know more information then they can search the brand or product online or contact for more advice. Customer service is another area that many people would like to see an improvement on. While some companies and retail assistants can be helpful, they are also seen as fake or force help on the customer, which ultimately can result in the person being put off. One way that a brand could improve on it’s customer service is to fully train the sales assistant on brand values and customer service skills so that they understand the process of how the company deals with particular situations that may occur with customers. Some issues may include refunds, a person’s feedback or problem with the product or wishing to simply find out more information. Another way is to hire a person that is naturally friendly and approachable, but only offers help when a person asks or indicates they need to but may be too scared to ask. If an advisor is passionate about the brand, this can have an effect on customers so that they too feel enthused. Knowledge on existing and new product launches is essential so that they can provide any information that a customer may be curious about and help their decision on whether to make a purchase or not. Rewarding the employee will also help to keep their motivation and desire to continue on their working journey for the brand and the selling of it’s products. A brand’s identity is the first thing that people will notice. For this reason, they need to have a memorable or unique name that is easily recognisable; this includes the design of their logo too. They must also ensure that they stand out from current existing competitors who sell similar products through their pricing or style. Once this has been decided on, any location or form that features the brand information and its products, must represent the overall aesthetic with carefully planned and executed design and layout. Promotional strategies are a way to lead above the competitors, keep existing customers and potentially attract new ones. This can be enforced through social media, events, competitions, product giveaways, exclusive offers, discounts and survey or general rewards. American global coffee company ‘Starbucks’ are an example of this being put into place at their store located on Oxford Street, London. They keep a stack of mini leaflets in the form of a business card, situated on the counter where orders are placed. The small cards contain details of the ‘Song of the week’, which customers can download for free with a one use code that is provided on the back. As people love freebies, this will encourage them to take one for themselves or a few for friends who may also visit the store for more and buy a coffee. The brand image may appear more favourable over competitors such as Costa Coffee and Pret a Manger.
TECHNOLOGICAL FACTORS - In 2014, United Nude worked with 3D Systems to produce ‘Float’ shoes. They had an interactive touch screen in stores that were connected to 3D printers, allowing consumers to print customized designs from home. ‘Rem D Koolhaas: “We have been using 3D printing for the product development of our shoes ever since our first shoes, dating back to 2001. Since then we have seen a massive evolution in 3D printing.’ http://www.unitednude.com/news/2014/united-nude-3d-printing-52
The Cube 3D printer
http://www.unitednude.com/news/2014/united-nude-3d-printing-52
http://diariodesign. com/2014/09/impresion-3dunited-nude-se-lanza-imprimir-zapatos/
http://www.3ders.org/ articles/20140806-3d-systemsunited-nude-launch-3d-printedshoes-cube-3-3d-printer.html
The shoe itself is made up of three parts with a hand cut rubber sole for added comfort.
This design is about creating something beautiful & interesting and it’s about experimenting, moving forward and about learning.” Rem D Koolhaas:
SWOT (micro environment)
STRENGTHS: Strong visual aesthetic. Individual. Empowering. WEAKNESSES: Not all shoes are affordable enough for customers with a lower budget.
OPPORTUNITIES: CLUB EXPERIENCE: In store event 3D PRINTING: Personalised shoe designs etc. COMPETITION: launched through a pop up shop iPad email entry by door - presented Social Media Guerrilla Marketing Shop-in-shops and retail concessions THREATS: Competing brands with more exposure and high sales.
BRAND ANALYSIS & OBJECTIVES
BRAND IDENTITY United Nude is known for it’s architectural footwear with contemporary, sleek and detailed designs to innovative concepts and products. They market some of their collaborations and sales with printed information on the exterior of the glass store windows. This is a fast way to communicate with passing footfall, allowing them to be informed before entering the store. Newly released or limited edition products can be found on plinths, displayed in the store window in an exhibition type manner.
THE 4 P’S PRODUCT: Women’s architectural inspired footwear and accessories. PLACE: 40 stores selling United Nude products, with flagship stores located in London, Amsterdam and New York. PRICE: Prices range from £35 for the lowest product, up to £1300 ‘Limited Edition’ products. PROMOTION: Social Media is the strongest source of promotion. This is due to recognition spreading at a fast pace, with potential customers browsing for something current, affordable and fashionable. Printed media such as high fashion spreads in I-D magazine feature shoes such as United Nude and Iris Van Herpen’s collaborative collection entitled ‘The Biopiracy.’
COMMUNICATIONS STRATEGY & PROMOTIONAL PLAN
SOCIAL MEDIA
Information on the brand can be found on their social media accounts, through events and interviews or talking to sales assistants in store. This form of technology allows United Nude to express their background and brand ethos, whilst showcasing their inspirations, collaborations and creations. While visiting a store to seek out new styles and test products for quality, fit and purpose, not all people have the time or wish to travel far if they do not live close by. For this reason, displaying and selling product’s online, allows accessibility to anyone. Another beneficial outcome of using social media for promotional reasons is that you are guaranteed an increase in potential customers. One way is through current consumers sharing information via their own profiles as well as the company sharing updates on new products, collections, competitions, offers and promotions.
SOUNDCLOUD
TUMBLR
BRAND ONION
BRAND IN ACTION
BRAND PERSONALITY
BRAND VALUES
ESSENCE Women’s footwear, inspired by fashion and architecture.
Romantic inspiration. Combining shared vision and unique talents to create original, high quality and contemporary pieces.
Clarity. Conceptial, Elegant and Innovative Design. Flagship stores in three cities. Other stores located around the globe. Events. Collaborations with organisations and architectural/fashion designers.
PRICE ARCHITECTURE
TOP PRICE PRODUCT LIMITED EDITION Nova Shoe Rose Gold £1,300.00 Also available in Silver Chroming and Black Chroming.
PREMIUM PRICE PRODUCT Iris van Herpen X United Nude Synesthesia Black £750.00 Also available in Ivory.
MID PRICE PRODUCT Rivet Hand Bag Stone £459.00 £349.00 Also availble in Black, Black + Gold (Same Prices) and Brown - £459.00 £255.00
LOWEST PRICE PRODUCT WOMEN UN Scarf Riz Blue £35.00
CUSTOMER PROFILE
Anastasija Vatikas is a daring creative director of an independant makeup brand ‘Eccentric Wire.’ She has an admiration for unconventional styles and products and is a regular consumer of United Nude, purchasing new footwear and accessories every season.
COMPETITORS
A competitor of United Nude is London based luxury designer Kat Maconie, who produces elaborate women’s footwear with a contemporary style. Shoe prices extend to £600, which in comparison to UN is not as steep but the originality of the designs is what relates to the brand. The geometric and edgy styles along with the sophisticated block heels cater to the statement provoking wearer as well as the formal and sleek working-woman. The AW13 and AW14 collections feature boots, heels and sandals.
KAT MACONIE SOCIAL MEDIA
Kat Maconie has social media accounts for potential customers and consumers to follow so that they can find out in depth information about her biography, through her website or to find products online that may be seen worn by a celebrity or featured in a magazine.
CONCLUSION
To conclude, the creativity behind United Nude is exceptional. Collaborations with other architects, designers and software companies allows their ideas to be put in place so they can produce almost anything they wish, as long as they have access to the technologies needed. Retail experience and Visual merchandising are key factors that are needed to ensure a brand represents themselves, their purpose and products to customers. Digital technology is evolving at an extremely fast rate, so the fashion; product and retail industry must be aware and keep up to date with new ways of gaining recognition, sales, consumers and personal achievement. With so many trends emerging rapidly, it is not always easy for a brand to predict what will sell or not. This is why different market levels collect ideas from one another, based on the success of their design styles. For example, a high street store may be inspired by trending luxury garments worn by celebrities and know that a large number of people will want to wear what they have seen. They will then take elements of the styles that are currently recognised and recreate them in a way that is cheaper, fast to produce in bulk and priced at a fairly reasonable tier. High street stores can have the exact same effect on luxury brands. If they notice particular styles to be preferred by the public or celebrities, they will take elements and elaborate or manipulate in a way that they can appear more extravagant, with the addition of selling at a high price.
diarioDESIGNhttp://diariodesign.com/
APPENDIX
MARKETING FASHION HARRIET POSNER
Quotes ‘Fashion allows us to dream; it can transport us from the mundane to the glossy world of models, catwalks and fantasies.’ ‘beautifully styled fashion spreads display tantalizing looks created from the new season’s collections and magazines flaunt innumerable glossy adverts promoting an assortment of fashion accessories and perfume.’ ‘From catwalk to store, the fashion dream must be promoted and maintained’ ‘Today, Italy is an important country for the design and manufacture of luxury and mid-market fashion, with particular expertise in leather goods, footwear, knitwear and high-quality ready-to-wear for both men and women.’ VISUAL MERCHANDISING FOR FASHION ‘working with a three-dimensional model enables a coherant exploration of the space and a visualisation of physical space and movement.’
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Rem D Koolhaas and Galahad Clark. (2003-2015). United Nude[online]Available from:http://www.unitednude.com/ [Accessed 2nd February 2015] Posner, H. (2011). Marketing Fashion. China. Laurence King Publishing. Sarah Bailey and Jonathan Baker. (2014) VISUAL MERCHANDISING FOR FASHION. China. BLOOMSBURY Publishing Plc