Cookbook of the Balkans by Raleigh Keagan

Cookbook of the Balkans: A Culinary Tour through Prokletije/BjeshkĂŤt e Nemuna Kosovo, Montenegro & Albania

By Raleigh Keagan

Forward The nations and people of the Balkans have been in the midst of a sustained and often volatile tumultuously changing political and geographical environment for decades. One negative side effect of such a history is a threat to identity. However, my recent trip through Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania proved just the opposite. Not only has the region retained a strong collective identity and pride, each individual country has a beautiful and rich sense of self that additionally adds to the whole. There are many unique aspects of the Balkans that aid in the identity of the people and culture, but something in particular that stood out to me was their amazing and delicious cuisine. While many dishes have different names or spelling (if only off by a letter!), there is an undeniable commonality of cuisine stretching across borders. The subtle differences among the similarities highlight the uniqueness that each country has to offer, as well as the collective baseline identity largely shared in the region. The pride and effort dedicated to the cuisine in the Balkans is apparent not only in the delectable dishes, but also in the presentation and generosity of the people. Food is not simply sustenance, it is an experience. It is a gift to be shared with visitors and an event to be enjoyed with friends and family. The focus paid in creating each item and the genuine giving nature of the people are historical cultural aspects that have not wavered in the face of an ever-changing environment, which has solidified these traits as central to Balkan identity. My privileged experiences in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania exposed me to an entirely new way of thinking about food. I wanted not only to remember the delicious recipes for my own enjoyment and sharing upon returning home, I wanted to honor the beautiful people I met and the wondrous culture and cuisine by creating something to memorialize the experience. In Co o k bo o k o f the Balk ans: A Culinary Tour through Prokletije/BjeshkĂŤt e Nemuna â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Kosovo, Montenegro & Albania, I have gathered several recipes that I had the great fortune to enjoy during my travels, photos of the generous people who served and shared their scrumptious secrets, and a few personal experiences along the way. What you are reading is a small snippet of the fantastic cuisine and culture the Balkans have to offer, and I hope to continue to add more as my travels continue. Please enjoy! 2

A Bit on the History As the majority of national borders drawn in the Balkans have been arbitrarily marked largely for political purposes, rather than the recognition of natural and cultural defining areas, so too we find the extent of cuisine influence to ignore those arbitrary lines marked on a map. Much of the Balkan cuisine was influenced and shows strong ties to Turkish foods, as a result of the Ottoman Empireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s occupation. The prominent (and delicious!) presence of yogurt in many dishes is also reminiscent of ancient Persian cuisine. The persistence of similarities in cuisine throughout the Balkan region, particularly despite the existence of a continuously changing political structure and presence, as well as the apparent variance in levels of development and often minimized contact with people across borders within the region, exemplifies how significant the cuisine is to the Balkan identity. Also, a history of eating at home (rather than dining out at restaurants) has helped maintain the integrity of Balkan cuisine. As cooking in this part of the world has historically been (and to a large degree still is) a traditional role performed by women, and many communist countries saw the majority of meals being eaten at home, women cooked what they learned from their mother and their motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother, and so on. These practices and cultural norms reinforced a strong historic identity of Balkan cuisine, rather than being readily influenced by the next regime that waltzed in. Balkan cuisine is largely dependent and reflective of the season and is often gathered from local ingredients. Food has an important social role in the region. It is often made to stimulate the appetite rather than satisfy, to help pass along the afternoon while enjoying moderate/copious amounts of wine or Rak i (recipe below!). The cuisine is a central part of the identity of this region, and I am proud to share even just a sliver of their historically unique and delicious dishes.

Acknowledgements While I cannot pay the deserved tribute to everyone who helped me in creating this recipe guide, I wish to send my sincerest thanks to all of the people in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania who so generously and enthusiastically shared their houses, their food and their intricate cooking knowledge. Your perspective on food has forever changed my view on it, and for that alone, I cannot thank you enough. Particular thanks to Mrs. Selma Faro, Mrs. Lula Gjecaj, Geoffrey Dabelko, Todd Walters and International Peace Parks Expeditions. And of course to Mrs. Shkodra from Thethi, Albania, pictured below. Our Mom away from home.

Table of Contents

Phyllo

Sarma

Tomato Cucumber Salad

Hurmshece

Omelet “Lula”

Balkan Goulash Soup

Gabaneca

Jufke

Burek

Mantije

Stuffed Green Peppers

Baklava

Raki

Phyllo/ Fila/Filo/Yufka This thin, flaky pastry dough goes by a variety of different names, but is one of the most prevalent items throughout the region and is a staple in many dishes in Balkan cuisine. For ease in making a number of the other recipes included, phyllo may be purchased in large, thin pasta-like sheets, generally found in the international section in a grocery store. But I will note that I have had the privilege of seeing the home-made process and experiencing the deliciousness, and I highly recommend it if one has the time.

Ingredients Water – 1 liter Flour – 7 oz. (200 g) Salt Cream

Directions Mix water, flour and salt, slowly adding water to flour In a large round baking dish, pour, or brush on one thin layer of the mixture Add a thin covering of cream on top Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 1 hour Remove, add another layer of the mixture, then another layer of the cream, place back in oven for 1 hour Repeat until mixture is finished

Sarma This dish is often traditionally served for weddings and religious holidays, though I was privileged to enjoy the deliciousness on an ordinary day. Like many foods described here, Sarma originates from the Turkish Ottoman Empire. It is often served with yogurt, and is a favorite at Christmas meals. The wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro, who runs a guesthouse I stayed at in Montenegro, served this delightful dish and then so graciously humored my interest by describing the recipe. Sarma is merely one of the outstanding authentic Balkan dishes she so generously served. Relatively easy to create, but simply delicious to eat!

Ingredients Large head of cabbage – 1 Lean ground beef – 1 lb. (can also add ½ lb. ground pork and/or ½ lb. ground ham if desired) Uncooked long-grain rice, white – 1 cup Onion, finely chopped – 1 Bell pepper, finely chopped – 1 Large carrot, finely chopped – 1 to 2 Egg – 1 Garlic, finely chopped – 2 to 3 cloves Salt – 1 tsp., to taste Coarse ground black pepper – 1 tsp., to taste Additional spices, dried – to taste

Directions Boil cabbage and separate into individual leaves In large bowl, combine all other ingredients, mix well Form meat mixture into oblong balls/rolls, about the size of a golf ball Place 1 meat roll into 1 cabbage leaf and fold like an eggroll or burrito, so mixture wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall out Repeat until all of meat mixture and/or cabbage leaves are used Place Sarma in large pot, pour in just enough water to cover and bring to boil Reduce heat to simmer, cook for 1.5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2 hours, adding more water as needed

Tomato Cucumber Salad While this dish is relatively self-explanatory, it is ever-present in the Balkans and deserves recognition. Wonderfully fresh and light, especially when offered alongside the delicious, yet heavy breads, meats and cheeses that dominate much of this cuisine, the tomato cucumber salad is a must at any Balkan inspired meal! Ingredients Tomato Cucumber Olive oil Optional: Feta Spinach Capers Olives Directions Cut up tomato and cucumber, and any other ingredients you wish to include Drizzle with olive oil

Hurmshece/Hurmasice While I have not yet had the chance to enjoy this cookie-cake like dish myself, I am told it is wonderful for birthdays and other festive occasions. This recipe is another one of Mrs. Selma Faro’s, and if it came from her kitchen I can guarantee it will be good!

Ingredients Eggs – 2 Sugar – 2 ½ cups Vegetable oil – 1 cup Baking powder – 1 tsp. Flour – 2+ cups Water – 2 cups Optional Sweetened shredded coconut chopped – 3.5 oz. (100 g) Sour milk – 2 cups

Directions Mix eggs with 2 cups of sugar, until sugar melts Mix in oil, coconut (if including), vanilla and baking powder Add flour, ½ cup at a time, mixing slowly; enough for mixture to be stuck together, softer than pizza dough Grease bottom of baking pan Roll pieces of dough into little logs, a few inches long Place rolls on baking pan, all next to each other Bake at 390° F (200° C) for 15-25 minutes; until golden

Syrup Boil water and remaining sugar while cake is baking Keep on medium heat until all sugar dissolves Remove cake from oven and immediately pour syrup over entire cake 11

Omelet â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lulaâ&#x20AC;? A specialty of Mrs. Lula Gjecaj (Lula means flower in Albanian, a lovely name for an equally lovely person!). Mrs. Lula runs one of the generous guesthouses I stayed at in pristine Thethi, Albania. She and her husband have an organic farm next to the guesthouse, from which they are able to produce nearly, if not all of the delicious food they serve and enjoy. Particular portions of the ingredients of this dish can be adjusted depending on the desired meal size.

Ingredients Potatoes Onions Tomatoes Eggs Peppers Salt

Directions Cut potatoes in circular form SautĂŠ vegetables in a pan over medium heat, starting with the onion, then adding in the peppers and potatoes Add tomatoes and some water, let boil 5-7 min Pour all ingredients into a baking pan, cover vegetables with whisked eggs Bake in oven until it takes on a good color (10-15 min)

Balkan Goulash Soup During my visit, I had many different varieties of delicious soups encompassing all sorts of yummy ingredients. The one described here brings many of those flavors together, and one can play around with the inclusion or exclusion of certain ingredients to morph the dish into a sister soup.

Ingredients Vegetable oil – 2 tbsp. Onions, diced – 2 Celery, chopped – 1 cup Garlic, minced – 2 large cloves Paprika – 3 tbsp. Thyme leaves, dried – 1 tsp. Tomatoes, chopped finely or run through blender – 4 to 5, or 28 oz. can Sauerkraut, drained – 8 oz. Smoked sausage, cut into ¼ inch slides – 1 lb. Parsley, chopped Lean beef, cubed – 1 ½ lb. Brown sugar -- 2 tbsp. Caraway seeds – 1 ½ tsp. Beef broth – 6 cups Potatoes, peeled and diced – 3 cups

Directions Heat oil in large soup pot over medium heat Add cubes of beef, increase heat to medium high, quickly browning on all sides Add onions, celery and garlic; sautĂŠ until vegetables are soft Add paprika, brown sugar, thyme and caraway; toss to thoroughly coat vegetables and meat, 2 to 3 minutes Add tomatoes, beef broth and sauerkraut Reduce heat to a simmer, partially cover pot and cook 2 hours Add potatoes, cook additional 30 minutes, partially covered Add sliced sausage, cook 15 minutes, uncovered Note: Flavor is enhanced if dish is stored in refrigerator 1 day prior to eating

Gabaneca Deliciously creamy. Also originates from the Turkish Ottoman Empire. Ingredients Phyllo dough, thawed – 1 lb. Sour cream – 1 cup Eggs – 6 Feta, broken into small pieces – 2 lbs. Butter, melted – ½ lb. Flour – ½ cup Salt – tsp., to taste Optional: Vegetables Spices Directions Beat eggs until frothy Add sifted flour and salt; beat well Add sour cream; mix well Add cheese and mix/fold into mixture thoroughly Grease 13x9x2 inch pan Layer 2 sheets of phyllo on bottom of pan Pour 2 tablespoons of melted better over dough, brush to edges to cover completely Spread 6 large spoonfuls of cheese mixture over bottom layer Repeat dough, butter and cheese mixture layering until 2 sheets phyllo remain Add last two sheets on top and pour remaining butter over dough Bake uncovered at 325° F (160° C) for 45 minutes (Depending on oven and ingredients, can range from 30-60 minutes)

Jufke (Pita Sa Sirom) This delicious dish is somewhere between American Lasagna and Turkish Borek (meat pie). It takes a bit of patience but if you can put in the time you will end up with something everyone will marvel at. I enjoyed this warm dish on a chilly evening in Hijla, Montenegro, near the border with Kosovo. Staying in a high mountain lodge, this warm, hearty dish was a perfect ending to a long, chilly, gorgeous day.

Ingredients Olive oil – 6 tbsp. Green peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped – 1 lb. Pul biber/Aleppo pepper – 1 tbsp. Onion, large, coarsely chopped – 1 Salt and pepper — to taste Ground beef – 2 lb. Canola oil – ¾ cup + Eggs, large – 5 Milk – 1 cup Phyllo (yufka) dough – 16 oz. package Nigella sativa (black cumin seeds) – 2 tbsp. Optional: Tomato sauce — 16. oz. jar

Directions Heat olive oil over medium heat Add green peppers, pub biber, onion, salt and pepper Cook about 10 minutes, until softened, stirring frequently Add beef, cook about 10 minutes, until liquid has evaporated Season with salt and pepper Cook about 15 more minutes, until vegetables are soft, stirring occasionally Remove meat and vegetables to plate, cool slightly In bowl, whisk eggs, milk and ½ cup canola oil Grease 9x13 inch baking dish Lay 2 sheets of phyllo in bottom of dish, brushing each sheet with egg mixture Pour ⅓ of beef/vegetable mixture over sheets If using, top with tomato sauce Repeat 2 more layers, top with phyllo and brushed egg mixture Tuck overhanging top sheet into pan Sprinkle nigella sativa seeds on top Bake at 400° F (200° C) about 45 minutes, until top is sizzling and golden Let cool 20 minutes Top with yogurt or chili, if desired

Burek/Byrek/Barek Byrek, meaning pie, is another item that comes with many names, and also many varieties. This yummy dish is frequently served for a hearty breakfast, and is also common as a side dish for dinner or lunch. They are often swirled in a coil-like shape, handy for on-the-go. The spinach variety resembles spanakopita. I have included recipes for meat and vegetarian varieties below. While the ingredients vary slightly the directions are the same. The spinach recipe was generously provided by Mrs. Lula Gjecaj , and you can adjust the amounts for the ingredients depending on how much you want to make.

Ingredients, Meat Burek Phyllo Dough Veal, minced – 17.5 oz. (500 g) Beef, minced – 9 oz. (250 g) Onions – 4 Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g) Egg yolks – 2 Salt and pepper – to taste

Ingredients, Spinach Byrek Phyllo Dough Spinach, cut into small pieces Cream Feta, broken into small pieces Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g) Egg yolks – 2

Directions Roll dough out on table until very thin, leave to rest and dry Cut dough into 4 equal pieces Cover dough with thin layer of melted butter In a bowl, mix together either the meat and onions OR the spinach, cream and pieces of cheese Pour meat or spinach filling at the edge of one side of dough, roll to create sausage-like pastry Use round baking pan to create spiral, starting from the middle of the dish Another option: instead of rolling the pastry, you can lay 3 sheets of phyllo in the bottom of the pan, buttering between each, then layer the spinach or meat mixture, then topping it with 3 more sheets of phyllo and butter Bake at 400째 F (200째 C) for 20-25 minutes Before dish is completely baked, pour melted butter mixed in warm water over top of pastry

Mantije (Pita Sa Mesom) This was by far my favorite dish I had during my visit. Outwardly simple, yet inwardly wondrously delicious, I happily enjoyed Mantije throughout my trip in all three countries. They were frequently nestled in amongst the myriad of delicacies and generous spreads I was treated to, but I could always spot them – and generally eat more than my fill. Bit-sized and packed with flavor, these are a great appetizer, and also work well as a side dish for any meal. Mantije is a traditional dish particularly in Montenegro and Kosovo, but can be readily found throughout the region. Its prominence was likely influenced by the Ottoman Empire’s presence in the Balkans. The dish can be made for any occasion or for special occasions. It is a distant relative to “Manti” eaten in Turkey, though there they are boiled, not baked. Mantije can be made with cheese or meat, and if you opt for the former it is recommended to use light cheese from a cow.

Ingredients Phyllo Dough – 2.2 lbs./35 oz. (1000 g) Minced meat, roasted beef – 14 oz. (400 g) Onion, chopped – 1 ½ Olive oil – 2 tbsp. Yogurt – 3 tbsp. Egg – 1 Salt and pepper – to taste Directions Sauté meat and onions on high until cooked thoroughly and golden brown; season with salt and pepper Roll out dough and cut into diamond pieces (roughly 2”x2”) Place spoonful of meat in center of diamond and roll up by pulling each corner over the top of the meat; turn over and place onto greased baking tray Mix yogurt, egg and oil, pour over rolls and leave for 1 hour Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 2 hours Can add more yogurt and onion on top when cooked Traditionally served with Ayran, a delicious salted yogurt drink

Stuffed Green Peppers Another delicious staple of the Balkans. I had many different varieties while visiting, and this is merely one of the splendid pepper dishes I enjoyed. Also look for sautéed green peppers with feta! Ingredients Green Peppers – 8 Lean ground beef, minced – 1 lb. Rice – ¼ cup Garlic, chopped – 1 clove Onion, chopped – 1 Tomato juice – 2 cups Vinegar or wine – 4 tbsp. Sugar – 3 tbsp. Salt and pepper – to taste Optional: Chicken stock – 1 tbsp. powdered OR ¼ cup liquid

Directions Cut top off peppers (⅟4 – ⅛ inch). Keep tops! Remove seeds Combine meat, rice, garlic, onion and salt and pepper; mix well Pack mixture into each pepper, filling to ⅔ and replace tops Place peppers together snugly, upright in large saucepan Mix tomato juice, vinegar or wine (wine is recommended!), sugar, and chicken stock if using Pour liquid mixture over stuffed peppers Add just enough water to cover peppers in pan, if the tops are uncovered Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for roughly 1 hour, until peppers are tender and roughly ⅔ of liquid is absorbed

Baklava This dish you have likely heard of before, but having the truly authentic version is an entirely different experience, which, thanks to the wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro and her sharing this recipe, you can have the opportunity to enjoy. Traditionally made for holidays or religious events, Baklava is a sweet (very sweet!) dish that is, once again, based off of the popular phyllo dough, but will give you a sugar rush like nothing else.

Ingredients Phyllo dough – 1 lb. Walnuts, smashed – 4 to 5 cups Raisins – 2 cups Sugar – ½ cup Cloves, ground – ½ tsp. Cinnamon – 1 tsp. Sweet butter – 1 lb. Optional: Orange zest Honey

Syrup Water – 2 ½ cups Sugar – 3 cups Lemon juice – 3 tsp. Vanilla – 1 tsp. .

Directions Mix nuts, raisins, cinnamon, cloves and sugar Melt butter over medium high heat Grease 14x10 ½ inch pan Lay 5 sheets of phyllo in pan, brushing the top of each sheet with melted butter Spread nut mixture over dough Lay 6 more sheets on top, buttering each layer Cut into diamond shapes Bake at 300° F (150° C) for about 1 ½ hours, until lightly brown Combine ingredients for syrup, boil for about 10 minutes and let cool Pour cooled syrup over hot pastry

Raki Raki is the drink of the Balkans. Known as Souma in Greece and Grappa in Italy, this highly concentrated spirit is always present on a Balkan dinner table (or sometimes breakfast!). Somewhat akin to homemade moonshine popular in certain areas of North America, this drink is often made by those serving it, and who generously keep your glass full. It is made from a variety of different kinds of fruits, depending on the location and time of year. In Montenegro, Raki is most commonly made with purple grapes, but other fruits are also used, such as: plums; apples; pears; peaches; or nectarines (the latter is described as best and preferred option). While some balk at the claim that Raki has healing powers, I myself have witnessed them first hand. During my visit to the Balkans I sprained my ankle on a hike and limped all the way back to town. After returning I rubbed some Raki around my ankle and the next morning I was good as new. And much cheaper than a trip to the emergency room some 4 hours away. As with most spirits, Raki betters with age, often changing color as it takes on more years. The specific color depends on the fruit used, for instance apple and peach will give off a golden color. There are also specialized batches of Raki that are said to aid for certain ailments. In the accompanying pictures, for instance, the bottle is noted for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Nervosaâ&#x20AC;?, for bad moods, so the maker tells me. And I can attest it did indeed put us all in good spirits! 30

Directions Collect fruit in barrel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; should be half full of fruit (the type of fruit will depend on your location and time of year Add water and sugar to barrel, let ferment (time) Fire, distillation, boiling, steam, then distillation

GĂŤzuar! Cheers!