Uttarakhand Guide by Raman awasthi

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Uttarakhand

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Simply Heaven Rajaji National Park

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

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outlooktraveller.com For updates, news and new destinations, log on to our website www.outlooktraveller.com Printed and published by INDRANIL ROY on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited from AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110029 Printed at ACME TRADEX INDIA PVT LTD., B-70, Sector-80, Phase-2, Noida-201305 (U.P)

2 Uttarakhand

front section

Introducing Uttarakhand

garhwal

Rishikesh

Dehradun

PAURI

MUSSOORIE

contents

Haridwar

Kalsi

LANSDOWNE

CHAMBA

UTTARKASHI

POKHRI

KUMAON

NAINITAL

4 Uttarakhand

NAUKUCHIATAL

104

MUKTESHWAR

110

RAMGARH

114

RANIKHET

119

ALMORA

124

KAUSANI

129

MUNSIYARI

136

KUMAON VILLAGE STAYS

142

LETI

146

GWALDAM

150

ABOTT MOUNT

154

ASKOT

158

PILGRIMAGES

CHAR DHAM YATRA

162

PANCH KEDAR YATRA

172

HEMKUND SAHIB

182

JAGESHWAR

188

WILDLIFE

CORBETT NATIONAL PARK

193

NANDA DEVI NATIONAL PARK

202

BINSAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

205

RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK

210

Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan Near ONGC Helipad, Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248001 (India)

infoutdb-uk@nic.in 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987 http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Uttarakhand 5

TREKKING

THE PARI TIBBA RIDGE CIRCUIT

217

RUINSARA TAL AND HAR-KI-DUN

221

GANGOTRI-GAUMUKH AND BEYOND

227

TUNGNATH-CHANDRASHILA PEAK

232

THE VALLEY OF FLOWERS

238

PINDARI AND KAFNI GLACIER TREK

243

EXPERIENCE

KAYAKing on the ganga

248

RAFTING in rishikesh

252

SKIING IN AULI

258

ANGLING IN KUMAON

261

MEALS IN THE MOUNTAINS

263

FESTIVAL CALENDAR

266

WELLNESS HOLIDAYS

270

INFORMATION

District Tourism Development Officer

279

Tourist Offices

280

Travel Agents

281

Accommodation Listings

283

Transport Directory

317

ROUTE planners

6 Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand State Map

12–13

Garhwal

24–25

Haridwar

Rishikesh

Dehradun

Mussoorie Kumaon Nainital Ranikhet

52 92â&#x20AC;&#x201C;93 94 118

Corbett NP

192

Nanda Devi NP

203

Binsar WLS

206

Rajaji NP

212

Pari Tibba Ridge

216

Ruinsara Tal & Har-ki-Dun

220

Gangotri-Gaumukh and Beyond

228

Tungnath-Chandrashila Peak

233

The Valley of Flowers

239

Pindari and Kafni Glacier

244

Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan Near ONGC Helipad, Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248001 (India)

infoutdb-uk@nic.in 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987 http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Uttarakhand 7

Badrinath

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

▼

how to use this book This guide to the beautiful hill state of Uttarakhand has been divided in to six principle sections. The first two are divided on regional lines - Garhwal and Kumaon – and cover the main towns in both. The remaining sections cover pilgrimages and treks, wildlife parks and experiential holidays in the state. The end of the book has comprehensive hotel listings, with a list of amenities available at each.

garhwal

rIShIKESh

adventure sports with white water rafting, trekking, mountaineering and other outdoor activities on offer. The city is 240km away from Delhi and a convenient 24km from the railway station at Haridwar. Rishikesh is loosely divided into two parts – on one side stands the Rishikesh town, its bus and train stations, along with Triveni Ghat and some ashrams near Tapovan. This side, with its traffic and chaos, is less appealing to tourists visiting the region. The other quieter part spans beyond Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, where most of the

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

faST facTS When to go Anytime, but it’s less crowded in November and February. September to June is white-water rafting season Tourist offices l GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783/ 93, 2430799, 2435174 Email: yatra@gmvnl.com l GMVN Haridwar. Tel: 01334-228686 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 0135

Orientation Helps visitors establish themselves in their particular location and tells them the best way to travel locally.

bharat aggarwal

ashrams, restaurants, cafés and backpacker accommodations, have been established. OrIEntatIOn

The Ram and Lakshman jhulas (pedestrian bridges over the Ganga) separate the two main parts of the city. The best way to get around Rishikesh is on foot as the town is hilly and has narrow lanes. To cross the river take a ferry from Ram Jhula, which is near Swargashram, or walk across either Ram Jhula or Lakshman Jhula, which is 2km upstream. Vikrams are available on the main road as well as on the road to Badrinath. Autorickshaw drivers will take you temple sightseeing, covering the major temples in 3–4 hours. Vikrams will go as far as Haridwar. Taxis can be hired for longer distances. The GMVN Trekking and Mountaineering Division office at Lakshman Jhula Road can arrange for guides and porters for high altitude treks in the Garhwal Himalayas. You can rent trekking equipment from them too. thIngS tO SEE and dO

ganga aarti As the sun begins to set, Rishikesh undergoes a magical transformation – a heady mixture of hypnotic prayers and harmonious singing is on offer by the river’s banks. Head to Parmarth Niketan Ashram Ghat or Triveni Ghat to participate in the Ganga aarti. Hundreds of devotees gather to sing hymns while a holy

Things to See and Do Gives a detailed description of the main attractions in the area. The entry prices and timings for sites are also given.

Rafting down the Ganga, one of Rishikesh’s many attractions

fire ceremony is performed and a number of yellow-robed young priests participate in rituals. You will be overwhelmed by the feeling of oneness at these ceremonies, and even the religious sceptic will find himself clapping along! Tip Arrive at the ghats early to bag a spot to watch the ceremony.

trimbakeshwar temple Visible from Lakshman Jhula, the Trimbakeshwar Temple is locally known as the ‘Tera Manzil Temple’, literally translating to 13-floored temple! There are statues of several deities in various chambers on the different floors of the temple along with important religious and Vedic texts. The view of Rishikesh and the Ganga from the top-most floor is spectacular.

Swargashram Located near Ram Jhula, Swargashram is at the heart of Rishikesh’s tourist activity. This complex of shops, cafés, yoga ashrams and other establishments is a must-visit. Soak in the sights while walking in the narrow lanes here, but beware of touts and fake sadhus. This a strictly vegetarian, alcohol-free part of the town. For a memorable experience, walk from Ram Jhula to the east bank of the Ganga, which has a beautiful sandy beach dotted with boulders. You will witness spiritual plays, musical performances and people practicing yoga here.

Bharat temple Located near Triveni Ghat on the banks of the Ganga, Bharat Temple is one of the oldest and most revered

38 Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand 39

DEHRADUN

Fast Facts Barista, Nirula’s, Domino’s, Pizza Hut andthe McDonald’s – Dehradun Indicates the best time to visit a destination keeping in mind has them all. Rajpur Road heading north from Astley Hall has no dearth climate/ season. In addition, it lists the tourist offices in and around of eateries. The dosas at Kumar’s are popular. Moti Mahal serves good the destination, with contact details: address, telephone and Chinese webfood, while Ellora’s and Melting Moments Bakery are always site. The STD code for the area is also mentioned. crowded. Kalsang Friends Corner WHERE TO EAT

has great Tibetan and Chinese food. AROUND DEHRADUN

USP Box This comprises a short write-up, typically on a unique aspect of the destination, a local legend, or an important personality.

Where to Stay and Eat This is a representative listing of the accommodation options in each destination, with details such as phone numbers, facilities and tariffs. There is also a list of local restaurants and the kind of food served there. 10 Uttarakhand

Kumbh Mela According to legend, Sage Durvasas cursed the gods and, as a result, they became weak. The gods invited the asuras (demons) to help them churn the celestial ocean so that they could recover amrit, the drink of immortality, which was supposed to give them back their strength. Lord Vishnu devised a plan so that only the gods would gain control of the nectar. As the kumbha (pot) of amrit was being carried away by Garuda, a scuffle broke out between the gods and asuras. Four drops of the nectar spilled from the pot on to the earth over the four teerthas of Haridwar, Allahabad, Ujjain and Nashik. Thus, these four places attained mystical power. A Kumbh Mela is held at these four places once every 12 years in the months of February and March. The gathering is sacred for Hindus as they believe that they can assimilate the power of the immortal amrit, wash away their sins by bathing in the Ganga at this auspicious time and consequently attain moksha.

where to Stay and eat

The Haveli Hari Ganga (Tel: 01334265207, 226443; Tariff: `7,000– 10,000) set in a haveli built in 1917, is located at Ram Ghat. It has its own private bathing ghat and an ayurvedic spa. The haveli has 20 of the best rooms and suites in town. Amongst the high-end options is Aalia (Cell: 09899975469; Tariff: `12,500–16,500, villas `45,000– 55,000), on the Najibabad Road,

Mindrolling Monastery (9km) haridwar Clement Town is home to a large number of members from the Tibetan community.sanjoy Inside the town is ghosh the Mindrolling Monastery, which was founded in 1965 by His Eminence the Khochen Rinpoche and a few brother monks as the seat-inexile of the Mindrolling order of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery houses one of the world’s largest stupas (185ft high and 100sq ft wide), and has a painting of the Maitreya Buddha, and murals dedicated to Shakyamuni Buddha, Guru Padmasambhava amongst others. A People take a holy bath in the Ganga 35-m-high gold statue of the Buddha, which is dedicated to the Dalai Lama, The Kumbh Mela is also one of stands in the complex. the largest congregations of human Timings 9.00am–noon; 2.30– beings inu one place anywhere in the world as millions come for a holy dip and n 6.30pm Closed Monday

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting theRe Air Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport is located southeast of the city at Doiwala (24km/ 1hr, Tel: 0135-2412053), connected to Delhi by daily flights. Taxis charge `1,600 to the city centre Rail Dehradun Station, located off Gandhi Road, is connected daily to Delhi by the Dehradun Shatabdi and Mussoorie Express and to Mumbai by the Dehradun Express and weekly to Chennai by the Dehradun Express Road From Delhi, head down NH24 and NH34 to the Meerut Bypass. Continue along NH334 to Roorkee via Khatauli and the Muzaffarnagar Bypass. At Roorkee, get onto NH344 to reach Chutmalpur via Mandawar. From Chutmalpur, continue on NH307 for Dehradun, via Mohand Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-23860290) has two daily services (7hrs) between Delhi’s ISBT Kashmere Gate and the Dehradun ISBT (Tel: 0135-2755277). Ordinary buses leave for Dehradun between 5.00am and midnight from Delhi’s ISBT Kashmere Gate. The Volvo bus services (both state-run and private; fare `761) are highly recommended See Route Planner on p44.

honour the gods. Haridwar’s last Kumbh Mela attracted over 12 million people. A smaller celebration, called the Ardh Kumbh (halfUTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Kumbh), is Uttarakhand held every six years. Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Hundreds ofNearthousands of Cantt. pilgrims ONGC Helipad,Garhi Dehradun-248003(India) come to bathe in the during 2559987, this Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in Contact No Ganga : 91- 135- 2559898, huge religious fair.

15km from Haridwar. Soak in the infinity pool by the riverside. Radisson Blu (Tel: 305400; Tariff: `6,000–20,000) in SIIDCUL has modern rooms, restaurants and other modcons. There’s also Ambrosia Sarovar Portico (Tel: 398400; Tariff: `5,000–11,000) at Badehri, offering 70 rooms, Wi-Fi, a bar, restaurant and spa. Hotel Ganga Lahari (Tel: 220017-18; Cell: 09412074417; Tariff: `6,000–8,000) is at Gau Ghat in Har-ki-Pauri. It Uttarakhand 33

Getting There This box provides details of air, rail and road connections, nearest airports and railheads, and taxi fares to the destination. Info on convenient train and bus connections, road conditions and contacts of taxi and bus operators are also given. Uttarakhand 49

how to use this book

garhwal

infoutdb-uk@nic.in 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987 http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board

44 Uttarakhand

Route Planner Each region opens with a topo graphical route planner showing ◆ national highways, state and district roads ◆ tourist spots such as temples, forts, wildlife/ bird sanctuaries, caves, etc.

Tourist Offices This page lists contact details of tourist offices across the country, with icons indicating if only information is provided or if bookings can also be done.

aCCoMModatIon lIstInGs Temple Tel 223208, 223305 Cell 09568006602 W gmvnl. in Rooms 44, dorms 1 Tariff `1,650-4,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, room service Metro Reservations See p280 Himalayan Eco Lodges adventure

Location Auli W himalayan ecolodges.com Rooms 15 Tariff `11,900 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, rock climbing, pilgrimage tours Delhi Reservations Tel 011-64004003 Dehradun Reservations Tel 0135-2769696-97

InformatIon

TOURIST OFFICES InformatIon UTTARAKHAND

Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (GMVNL) Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) W gmvnl.in; kmvn.gov.in GMVN OFFICES

InformatIon & BookIng

Shanti Nagar, Bengaluru Tel 080-22249378

KOLKATA

GMVN Marshall House Room No. 224, 33/ 1, Netaji Subhash Road, Kolkata Telefax 033-22315554

HARIDWAR

GMVNL Rahi Motel Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel 228686 RISHIKESH

State Tourism Office GMVNL Shail Vihar, HaridwarBypass Road, Rishikesh Tel 0135-2431793/ 83 Uttarakhand Tourism Tour Executive Trekking & Mountaineering Division GMVNL Kailash Gate, Muni-ki-Reti Rishikesh Tel 2430799 GMVN METRO OFFICES BENGALURU

GMVN 29/ 2, SF, Nanjappa Mansion, KH Road

74/1, Rajpur Road Dehradun Tel 0135-2749720

MUMBAI

GMVN B/ 5, Arun Chambers Next to AC Market, Tardeo Main Road, Mumbai Tel 022-23524013 NEW DELHI

GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel 011-23350481 KMVN OFFICES NAINITAL

State Tourism Office KMVN Central Reservations Tallital, Nainital Tel 05942-236936, 231436 DEHRADUN

State Tourism Office KMVN Tourist Info Office (PRO)

KMVN METRO OFFICES KOLKATA

KMVN 7/ 2C, Chakraberia Road Kolkata Telefax 033-24868295 Cell 09339878995 MUMBAI

BadrInatH Std 01381

KMVN B/ 5, Arun Chambers Next to AC Market Tardeo Main Road Mumbai Tel 022-23536693

Chardham Camp Location Near Joshi Vidyalaya, Singhdhar Road W leisurehotels.co.in Rooms 20 luxury tents

Hotel Dwarikesh Location Plot No. 536-537, near Bus Stand Cell 09410465300, 09456772894 W hoteldwarikesh.in Rooms 32 Tariff `2,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, sightseeing, room service, TV Hotel Narayan Palace Location Near Bus Stand Cell 09412058824, 09824069835, 07579255140 Rooms 42, suites 4 Tariff `4,000-5,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Jagirdar Guest House Location Charan Paduka Road Cell 08650710763, 09412935549 W jagirdar guesthouse.com Rooms 6, dorms 1 Tariff `2,000, dorm `2,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant New Hotel Snow Crest Location Near Bus Stand, Badrinath Dham Cell 09980100123, 09871212938 W hotelsnowcrestbadrinath. com Rooms 24, suites 16

Tariff `4,500-6,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Sarovar Portico ayurveda Location Plot No. 834 Cell 09310333317, 09582216963 W sarovarhotels.com Rooms 49, suites 7 Tariff `6,500-10,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, gym, Ayurveda centre, TV Tourist Bungalow Devlok gmvn Location Riverside Cell 09568006651 W gmvnl.in Rooms 30 Tariff `2,1002700; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Tip GMVN also offers Tourist Rest House and Yatri Niwas here BarKOt Std 013752

Barkot Annexe gmvn Location Yamunotri Road Tel 24236 Cell 095680 06613 W gmvnl.in Rooms 4 Tariff `1,650; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Lodging only, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Tip GMVN also offers Janta Yatri Niwas and Old Tourist Rest House here

NEW DELHI

KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel 011-23712246, 23319835, 41519366

Disclaimer Only a representative listing of hotels in each area has been given. The facilities listed may not be exhaustive. Tariff indicates the approx range (lowest to highest) of the rates prevailing at the time of going to press. The listings given here should not be construed as recommendations by the publisher 284 Uttarakhand

Camp Nirvana Yamunotri Location Barkot-Yamunotri Highway, Gangani Cell 09456529074, 09599222709 W campnirvana.in Rooms 25 luxury Swiss tents Tariff `3,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Multi-cuisine meals, attached bath Chardham Camp tentS Location Yamunotri Road, near Dobata W leisure hotels.co.in Rooms 30 luxury tents Tariff `5,400, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520035 Cell 09412074905 Hotel Devbhoomi Location Yamunotri Road Tel 24202 Cell 08171754463, 09917972485, 09323260606 W hoteldevbhoomi.com Rooms 14, suites 1 Tariff `1,200-5,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities

Restaurant, cultural activities, room service Hotel Karan Palace Location Yamunotri Road Cell 09412140235, 094105 45027 Rooms 32, suites 2 Tariff `600-1,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV CHaKrata Std 01360

Blue Canvas Resort Location Village Korwa Cell 08394893089, 09927989991 W roadlesstravelled.in Rooms 15 Swiss tents, 1 dorm Tariff `3,500, dorm bed `1,200, with meals, guides, adventure activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, indoor games Chakrata Forest Rest House frH Location Inside Chakrata Forest W forest.uk.gov.in Rooms 3 Tariff `1,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities

Kitchen, caretaker/ self cooking, provisions to be provided For Reservations DFO, Chakrata Forest Division Tel 01360-375078 Deoban Forest House frH Location Inside Deoban Forest W forest.uk.gov.in Rooms 3 Tariff `750 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, caretaker/ self cooking, provisions to be provided For Reservations See Chakrata FRH above Himalayan Eco Lodges adventure

Location Viraatkhai W himalayanecolodges.com Rooms 11, tents 16 Tariff `8,400-10,400 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, rock climbing, pilgrimage tours Delhi Reservations Tel 011-6400 4003 Dehradun Reservations Tel 0135-2769696-97

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in

Uttarakhand 285

Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board DEHRADUN

UTDC Pt Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan Near ONGC Helipad Garhi Cantt Dehradun Tel 0135-2559898, 2559987 Fax 2559988 RTO Tel 2653217 Email infoutdb-uk@nic.in W uttarakhandtourism.gov.in n

280 Uttarakhand

➔

adventure

CHENNAI

GMVN Tamil Nadu Tourism Complex 2, Wallajah Road, Chennai Tel 044-25363524

DEHRADUN

State Tourism Office GMVNL Tourist Info Office 74/1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun Tel 0135-2746817/ 9308

Royal Village Auli Resort

hotels

Tariff `5,400, with all meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520035 Cell 09412074902

Accommodation Listings A listing of the stay options across budgets at each destination, with facilities of each mentioned. The listings should not be construed as recommendations either by the author or the publisher.

Route Planner Legend National Highway NH Number Road State Boundary International Boundary Train Route Destination Main Places Other Places Railway Station Airport Bus Terminal

Ferry Waterfall Peak Pass Water Body Bridge Hotel/ Stay Bank Restaurant Cave Hospital Tents

Park Entry Gate Tea Stall Tent Rafting Church Temple Masjid Gurudwara Monastery National Park/ WLS

Uttarakhand 11

â&#x2013;ź

route planner

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

12 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

route planner

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Uttarakhand 13

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feature

Introducing Uttarakhand ■

Shubham Mansingka

he state of Uttarakhand offers so much to the intrepid traveller – from snow-clad Himalayan peaks, quaint villages dotted with stone and wooden houses, to rivers, lakes, and oak and rhododendron forests. More than 70 per cent of the state is covered by trees, making it home to a considerable portion of India’s forest wealth. Not surprisingly, it was the birthplace of the Chipko Movement

14 Uttarakhand

(see p18). This hill state shares its borders with Tibet in the north, Uttar Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh to the south and west respectively, and the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal to the east. Divided into two distinct regions – Kumaon and Garhwal – Uttarakhand is a nature lover’s paradise with fabulous walking and trekking trails and plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife. There are more than 10 national parks and wildlife sanctuaries located at

introduction Courtesy Kalmatia Sangam Himalaya Resort

Trishul group of peaks

varying altitudes ranging from 800 to 5,000 metres above sea level here. Two of India’s biggest rivers, the sacred Ganga and Yamuna, originate in Uttarakhand. Naturally, the region abounds in mythological tales. Commonly referred to as ‘Dev Bhoomi’, which literally translates to ‘land of the gods’, the state lives up to this title as it is a favoured destination amongst devout Hindus. It is home to several Hindu temples and is the final

destination for various pilgrimages including the famous Char Dham Yatra. Festivals are celebrated with much pomp and splendour in Uttarakhand, and are a great way to experience the rich culture of this state. Besides Basant Panchami, Makar Sankranti and Holi, some important local festivals celebrated here include Bhitauli, Nandadevi, Ganga Dussehra, Phool Dei, Janopunya and Kandali. Uttarakhand boasts of a rich cultural tradition, with folk dance and music playing an important part in festivities. Locals perform folk songs with music provided by instruments such as the dhol, damoun, turri, ransingha, dholki, daur, thali, bhankora and masakbhaja. Mandals, panwaras, khuded, thadya and jhoda are some of the different types of folk songs sung across the state. The distinctive Langvir Nritya is an indigenous dance form in which men perform acrobatic movements. The Baradi Nati folk dance is Dehradun’s specialty. Travellers who are willing to step out of their comfort zones will find much to keep them occupied here. You can practice yoga at Rishikesh on the banks of the Ganga, visit the Valley of Flowers, gaze at the Nanda Devi, the second highest peak in India, or take a jeep safari in Corbett National Park. The hills of Uttarakhand, both in Kumaon Uttarakhand 15

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feature

and Garhwal, abound with classic treks. Most of them pass through the high alpine meadows known as bugyals (lush summer pastures) and offer grand views of the surrounding peaks.

History Although early records are scanty, it is believed that the area that is now Uttarakhand was populated by a number of relatively peaceful hill tribes. However, by the time the 8th century rolled in, the Brahmins and Rajputs arrived from the plains. Petty rivalries, domestic strife and war ensued. Most of the discord arose from the fact that the area had scarce arable land and few resources. The A forest in Jageshwar

SHUBHAM MANSINGKA

16 Uttarakhand

chieftains of Garhwal and Kumaon resorted to raiding each other’s territory in order to keep their coffers filled. This led to a fierce rivalry between Kumaon and Garhwal that defined the region for 700 years. It wasn’t all war and strife though – sometime between the 9th and 11th centuries, a king from the Katyuri Dynasty built the Sun Temple of Katarmal, near Almora. However, once the Chands of Kumaon took over, it was back to business as they skirmished with the Pals of Garhwal. By the time the Mughals arrived in India, both kingdoms found it advantageous to bend their knee before the mighty empire. By the early 18th century, the situation was no better with the Rohillas plundering Dehra Dun and Almora. The next century only saw the misery of the locals increase with famines, earthquakes and ruthless Gurkha invasions. Hundreds of hapless Garhwalis and Kumaonis were also sold into slavery and taken to Nepal and other kingdoms during this time. The Gurkhas attacked the East India Company’s territories in the early 19th century, which finally ended these incursions. Governor General Hastings declared war, sent in his forces, and by 1815 made Kumaon a British protectorate and divided Garhwal between the Company and the Raja of Tehri. While British rule was certainly an improvement

introduction AHTUSHI DESHPANDE

A tent perched at 4,600m above the Rataban glacier

over the Gurkhas’, there was rampant exploitation of the region’s resources, which did not sit well with the locals – entire hillsides of cedar, oak and pine forests were felled and the forest rights of the hill-folk were curtailed, which led to widespread resentment. When the British set up the Garhwal Rifles and Kumaon Regiment (headquartered at Lansdowne and Ranikhet respectively), providing employment for thousands, this anger was marginally soothed. These soldiers went on to distinguish themselves all over the world during campaigns in WWI and WWII. By this time, the region, part of the United Provinces of British India, had become popular

for its R&R stations for recuperating British troops as well as the Indian elite. Mahatma Gandhi had his ashram at Kausani and his kutir near Ranikhet, while Rabindranath Tagore found Ramgarh conducive for writing the first tentative lines of Gitanjali. And while Vijayalakshmi Pandit retreated to the Khali Estate in Binsar to rest, unlucky Jawaharlal Nehru cooled his heels in Nainital prison for long stretches. The Kumaonis and Garhwalis then went on to participate enthusiastically in the struggle for Indian Independence, but became disillusioned with the state of Uttar Pradesh. The same question resurfaced – who would control the rights to the forests Uttarakhand 17

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and waters of the region, locals or outsiders? Thus began the region’s struggle for a separate hill state of Uttarakhand. The 1962 India-China War ended with further restriction of local rights – the trade between Tibet and the region’s border villages was stopped. By the 1970s, when deforestation had become rampant, the Chipko Movement was born. Thousands of women across the region hugged trees and refused to let go when contractors from the plains arrived to log the forests. This mass action won them admirers all over the world. The movement for a separate state gained strength by 1994, The ‘chipko’ movement of the 1970s

BHAWAN SINGH

18 Uttarakhand

when dozens were killed in police firings. Six years later, the state of Uttaranchal was born and was renamed Uttarakhand in 2007.

Climate Uttarakhand’s tourist spots can be visited throughout the year. Winter can be bitterly cold though, and most trekking routes are shut during this time. Summer is peak tourist season when vacationers from around the plains of India flock to the mountains. Garhwal gets quite crowded from April to October when the Char Dham pilgrimage is in full swing. The rush briefly subsides during the inclement monsoon in July and August, when landslides occasionally cause road blockages. December to February is a good time to experience snowfall across the higher regions of the state. This is also the perfect time to go skiing in Auli. Visit Uttarakhand between April and June to witness the verdure of the valleys. Summer is also the time when locals cultivate crops; using the run-off from melting snow to irrigate fields. This season usually witnesses a huge bounty of fruit. September and October are the best months for trekking when the views of the Himalayas are clear and enviable. The Valley of Flowers is at its most beautiful just after the monsoon season ends. If tiger-spotting in Corbett National Park is on your bucket

introduction GOPINATH S

The spectacular Valley of Flowers in full bloom

list then visit anytime from November to May. In a nutshell, Uttarakhand has something for everyone in every season. Average summer temperatures are in the range of 25 degrees Celsius, while winter months mean temperatures of around 10 degrees C. Weather conditions also depend on the altitude of the place you’re planning to visit. It is best to check the same and plan ahead before venturing out.

Food In Uttarakhand, locally-grown herbs are cooked along with vegetables. Lentils, soya beans and mandua (buckwheat) feature prominently on the menu.

Locally grown rice and dal are staple dishes and bhaang chutney (a non-intoxicating variety of hemp seeds) is a favourite. Most vegetables, pulses and legumes that you eat are likely to be home-grown and fresh from family fields, except when you visit the bigger towns. When you’re in Uttarakhand don’t forget to savour some indigenous dishes, such as jimboo aloo, paalak ka kapa and bhatt ki churkhani. In Kumaon, a fudge-like sweet called bal mithai is quite popular.

Garhwal For centuries, pilgrims have travelled to Garhwal in droves. The Gangotri glacier, the source of the River Ganges, is found in Uttarakhand 19

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this region. Hindu devotees mainly visit Garhwal for the Char Dham Yatra or mountain pilgrimages to the four holy shrines of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri. Every year, between April and November, once the snow melts and the roads open, thousands of pilgrims make their way across the mountains of Uttarakhand to complete the journey that will bring them moksha (liberation). Garhwal has been the heartland of Hinduism since the 9th century, when Adi Shankaracharya incorporated these ancient shrines into the fold of the religion. Visitors hoping to find bliss away from the crowds should Students practise yoga

Courtesy YOG GANGA CENTRE

20 Uttarakhand

spend their time away from the Char Dham melee. The hills of Garhwal offer travellers many varied experiences including adventure sports such as rafting, camping, trekking, paragliding, and mountain-climbing. Foreign tourists visiting Uttarakhand tend to head straight for Rishikesh in their quest for spiritual enlightenment. Rishikesh is said to be the ‘yoga capital of the world’ and was made famous by the Beatles, who visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram in the 1960s. Over the last few years the Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board has been hosting the International Yog Festival, which is drawing more visitors to Rishikesh. Mussoorie has fabulous views of the Doon Valley and is the quintessential Raj-era hill station. Nearby, Landour is home to the celebrated writer Ruskin Bond. Mussoorie can get quite crowded with domestic tourists in the summer months, but its charm returns during winter. Hemkund Sahib, a sacred site for Sikhs, is also located in Garhwal near Joshimath. Travelling in Garhwal can be quite challenging. Extremely long and tiring drives on winding roads are the order of the day. But weary travellers don’t come back empty-handed – they are rewarded with spectacular views of the snowy Himalayan ranges and beautiful Garhwali villages in deep valleys.

introduction ARCHYUSMAN DUBEY

Pilgrims gather at Badrinath, one of the four dhams, during the Char Dham Yatra

There is a good collection of Tourist Bungalows operated by Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam. Most GMVN bungalows offer a range of rooms and dorms to suit all budgets. Dehradun has a conveniently-located airport with direct flights to Delhi and other airports of India. There are train stations at Haridwar and Dehradun, with trains to Delhi and other metros.

Kumaon For travellers coming from chaotic cities, the Kumaon region, which is a treasure-trove of interesting sights, is indeed a slice of heaven. It is, however, not as popular with tourists and

hence, can make for a peaceful vacation away from the humdrum of city life. It boasts of pleasant, small towns with glorious mountain views and wonderful walks. Kumaon, like Garhwal, is blessed with a pleasant climate, and is studded with gorgeous lakes. There is the breath-taking landscape, the fresh air of curative pine forests, and colonial architecture, thanks to the British Raj, on offer here. The districts that are a part of Kumaon include Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh, Bageshwar, Champawat and Udham Singh Nagar. As you travel through Kumaon, its beauty and quiet Uttarakhand 21

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charm will take your breath away, and you will understand why the British annexed this eastern pocket of Uttarakhand from Nepal in 1815. The two most prominent hill stations here are Nainital and Ranikhet. Both are surrounded by pine forests and are great spots for rejuvenating holidays. The Kumaon region is an excellent choice for road trips – Mukteshwar, Binsar, Almora, besides popular Nainital and Ranikhet, all vie for the traveller’s attention. Wildlife enthusiasts are in for a treat at Corbett National Park (see p193), where visitors have the chance to spot the majestic tiger from the back of an elephant. Wherever one chooses to stay, the best way to experience the Kumaon

Travel tips ATMs are not hard to find in the bigger towns, however if you’re planning on visiting or trekking in remote locations, you should stock up on cash. In the mountains, the roads are mostly in good condition, but some stretches may be washed out due to rain, especially during the monsoon. Travelling during the monsoon and winter months can prove difficult due to landslides and snow blocking the roads. Public transport is excellent in the towns at the foothills, but buses are rare in the remoter regions of Uttarakhand. The preferred mode of transport is

22 Uttarakhand

Himalayas is through time spent on the road between these destinations. You will be rewarded by some awe-inspiring views of the Himalayas once you are above 1,500m in this region. Pantnagar airport in Kumaon has few flights per week to Delhi. The Kathgodam station is the base for entering Nainital and towns near Almora. Ramnagar Railway Station serves travellers heading towards Corbett National Park and Ranikhet. Roads in most parts of Kumaon are very good and tourist infrastructure is well-developed for the comfort of the traveller. Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) operates tourist lodges across the region. ■ Inputs by Sonia Jabbar & Priyam Bagga

shared sumos; they are also the quickest way to get around the state. Sometimes these shared vehicles can get too crowded and uncomfortable; consider paying for two seats if you want some breathing space. It is helpful to know basic Hindi as the people residing here don’t usually speak English. You should carry your own first aid kit and important medicines; they may not be available away from the bigger towns. If you’re planning on doing a high altitude trek, you should be aware of the adverse effects of acute mountain sickness, which occurs due to the low pressure of oxygen at high altitudes, and take adequate precautions.

Garhwal

garhwal

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

24 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

route planner

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Uttarakhand 25

Kedarnath

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

garhwal

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

28 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

haridwar

Devotees gather for the beautiful evening Ganga aarti at Har-ki-Pauri

BHARAT AGGARWAL

HARIDWAR HAR HAR GANGE: THE RIVER AS MY TEMPLE ■ Shubham

Mansingka

onsidered one of the holiest places in India, Haridwar literally translates to ‘Gateway to God’. According to Hindu mythology, Haridwar is amongst the four spots where the elixir of immortality (amrit) fell on earth. The city is also the starting point of the Char Dham Yatra (see p162). Many tourists, however, simply prefer to wash away their sins with a quick dip in the Ganga at one of the bathing ghats here. This ancient town has a unique flavour and the evening aarti at Har-ki-Pauri is quite spellbinding.

Haridwar was old even before many of the world’s ancient towns were born, and finds mention in the Vedas and Upanishads. Despite this, Haridwar hardly has any ancient monuments. It thrums with the holy energy of the Ganga River, and its numerous bathing ghats are the town’s important tourist spots. Making its way from the Himalayas, it is at Haridwar that the Ganga River begins its journey into the plains of northern India, lending the city its ancient name – Gangadwara. Haridwar is also significant because Hindus scatter the ashes of their deceased in the Ganga Uttarakhand 29

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after cremation to aid them in the cycle of rebirth. According to legend, a king of the ancient Kosala Kingdom and descendant of the mythological Surya Dynasty, Bhagiratha, performed penance for a thousand years in Haridwar to salvage the souls of his ancestors. They had died because of the fire that sprang from sage Kapil’s eyes when he was disturbed while meditating. Bhagiratha’s penance was successful and Lord Brahma asked him for his wish. Bhagiratha wished that the Ganga River be brought down to earth from heaven so that he could perform the last rites of his ancestors. Brahma then asked Bhagiratha to perform penance for Lord Shiva because he was the only one who could break Ganga’s fall from heaven, lest her tumultuous plunge cause devastation. Lord Shiva appeared after a

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Any time of the year Tourist offices l GMVN Rahi Motel, Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel: 01334-228686, 226430 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01334

30 Uttarakhand

year’s penance and promised Bhagiratha that he would fulfil his wish. Ganga eventually gushed down from heaven and Shiva captured her in his locks (jataa). Bhagiratha prayed to Shiva and he let Ganga flow down gently, thus releasing Bhagiratha’s ancestors from the cycle of rebirth. Evenings are the best time to visit the banks of the Ganga; small leaf boats are filled with flowers and diyas and set adrift on the river. The sight of these tiny twinkling lights floating down the river will take your breath away. Orientation

The main and, often, most crowded bathing ghat, Har-ki-Pauri, is a 1.5km walk from the Haridwar Railway Station. The bus stand (Tel: 01334227037) is diagonally opposite the railway station. Right outside the station is the Haridwar Taxi Drivers and Owners Association Stand (Tel: 227338) from where you can hire taxies. Though cycle rickshaws are the preferred mode of transportation in Haridwar, autos and vikrams (tempos) can be hired for the day. Parking around the Main Bazaar and Har-ki-Pauri can become next to impossible, especially during peak season. Walking around is really the best way to discover Haridwar. Things to see and do

Har-ki-Pauri Ghat This is one of the main attractions for those travelling to Haridwar for

haridwar tribhuvan tiwari

The Udan Khatola moving up the Bhilkeshwar Hill to Mansa Devi Temple

religious purposes. It is believed that this is the exact point where the Ganges leaves the mountains and enters the plains. “Har” means Lord Shiva and “pauri” means step. The ghat is also known as ‘Brahma Kund’, and is believed to have been built by the legendary king Vikramaditya in the 1st century BCE in honour of his brother, the saintly poet Bhartruhari, who is said to have meditated here. It is commonly believed that both Lord Shiva and Brahma visited this place in Vedic times. There is also an imprint of Lord Vishnu’s foot, Vishnucharanpaduka, on one of the stone walls of the ghat below water level. The Ganga Mandir and Haricharan Mandir are located here.

As evening descends, the spectacular daily event of Ganga aarti draws a huge crowd of pilgrims and tourists alike for the spectacle. Lights float down the river and priests perform elaborate rituals, while everyone sings devotional songs. The aarti generally begins shortly after sunset. Har-ki-Pauri Ghat is also regarded as the most auspicious point to bathe in the Ganges during the Kumbh Mela. A temporary mela township comes up around Har-ki-Pauri when the Kumbh is celebrated.

Mansa Devi Temple The gleaming white shikhara of the Mansa Devi Temple, dedicated to the eponymous goddess, is visible Uttarakhand 31

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on the crest of the Bilwa Parvat, high above Haridwar. The temple offers spectacular views of Haridwar and the Ganga. Pilgrims tie threads, which are symbolic of the their wishes, to the branches of a tree in the temple. When this wish is fulfil-led, they are supposed to come back and untie the thread. The temple can be easily accessed by cable car, although the 30-minute uphill climb is really pleasant in the mornings.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (30km/ 45mins), connected to Delhi daily by Air India, Jet Airways and SpiceJet flights. Return taxi fare to Haridwar is `1,600 Rail Haridwar Junction is linked daily to Delhi and Dehradun by two Shatabdi expresses. Haridwar is connected daily to Mumbai by the Dehradun Express, to Ahmedabad by the Haridwar Mail, and to Agra, Gwalior, Bhubaneswar and Puri by the Kalinga Utkal Express. The bus stop and taxi stand are right outside the station Road Haridwar is connected to Delhi by NH34 via Meerut and Roorkee Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 01122141611) operates 13 daily bus services to Haridwar from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar and two night services from Chandigarh See Route Planner on p28.

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u Udan

Khatola tickets `95 (roundtrip) Timings 6.00am–9.00pm Tel 227745

Chandi Devi Temple One of the most famous temples in Haridwar, the Chandi Devi Temple has an enviable location atop Neel Parvat in the lower Shivalik ranges. The 3-km climb to the top is a little tough for the unfit – it can take up to an hour or even more. It is also accessible by the same cable car that you take for the Mansa Devi Temple. It is surrounded by dense forests and boasts of splendid views. The temple is believed to have been built by king Suchat Singh of Kashmir in 1929. The main idol in the inner sanctum, however, dates back to the 8th century CE. Goddess Chamunda is believed to have rested here during her battle with asuras. u Udan Khatola tickets `163 roundtrip for Chandi Devi Temple only; `299 per head for round-trips to both Mansa & Chandi Devi Timings 6.00am–9.00pm Tel 227745

Daksha Mahadev Temple Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Daksha Mahadev Temple is one of the most important temples in Haridwar for pilgrims. It is named after king Daksha Prajapati, Goddess Sati’s father and one of the deities who presided over creation. Legend states that this temple was where Sati died after Daksha refused to accept Lord Shiva as his son-in-law. The temple has a lovely location on the banks of the serene Ganges and boasts of stunning architecture.

haridwar

Where to Stay

The Haveli Hari Ganga (Tel: 01334265207, 226443; Tariff: `13,000– 15,000) set in a haveli built in 1917, is located at Ram Ghat. It has its own private bathing ghat and an Ayurvedic spa. The haveli has 20 of the best rooms and suites in town. You may also choose to stay at the serene and peaceful Shree Prem Nagar Ashram (Tel: 226345, 227503; Tariff: Donations) on Jwalapur Road. The rooms are spacious, with all amenities. Visitors can participate in the morning and evening aarti, satsang, meditation and spiritual discourses. A 30-minute Sound-andLight Show held on Sunday evenings is quite popular with tourists and

A Kumbh Mela is held at these four places once every 12 years in the months of February and March. The gathering is sacred for Hindus as they believe that they can assimilate the power of the immortal amrit, wash away their sins by bathing in the Ganga at this auspicious time and consequently attain moksha. The Kumbh Mela is also one of the largest congregations of human beings in one place anywhere in the world as millions come for a holy dip and honour the gods. Haridwar’s last Kumbh Mela in 2010 attracted over 12 million people. A smaller celebration, called the Ardh Kumbh (half-Kumbh), is held every six years. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims come to bathe in the Ganga during this huge religious fair.

locals. Hotel Blue Lagoon (Tel: 225551, Cell: 07455911384; Tariff: `3,499–7,000) on Bilkeshwar Road at Laltarao Pul, offers 27 clean rooms and Wi-Fi. Amongst the high-end options is Aalia (Cell: 07351008801-04; Tariff: `9,000–12,000, villas `30,000– 40,000), on the Najibabad Road. Radisson Blu (Tel: 665400; Tariff: `7,000–20,500) in SIIDCUL has modern rooms, restaurants and other modcons. There’s also Ambrosia Sarovar Portico (Tel: 398400; Tariff: `4,000–11,000) at Badehri, offering 70 rooms, Wi-Fi, a bar, restaurant and spa. Ganga Lahari (Tel: 220017-18; Cell: 09412074417; Tariff: `7,500–10,000) is at Gau Ghat in Har-ki-Pauri. It Uttarakhand 33

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The Shaktipeeths Once upon a time, a child named Sati was born to king Daksha of Kankhal. She was none other than the Goddess Parvati herself, and she married Shiva, as was divine destiny. Her father, however, would not accept the ascetic lord as his son-in-law. Daksha held the great Brihaspati Yagna and did not invite them to the ceremony. Sati decided to go uninvited, convinced that her father’s heart would melt once he saw her. Instead, Daksha cursed Shiva with the rudest of abuses. Sati was devastated and fell dead in grief. When Shiva heard the news, he flew into a terrible rage and marched to Kankhal with his army. He picked up Sati’s body and danced the Rudra Tandava – the terrifying dance of destruction – annihilating everything in sight. He roamed inconsolably, with Sati’s body in his arms, for many years. Finally, Vishnu took pity on the mourning god and cut Sati’s body to pieces with the Sudarshan Chakra. Parts of her body fell in 51 places across Bharatavarsha, which went on to be revered as the 51 Shaktipeeths. Shiva returned to Kailash and withdrew into penance, till Sati was reborn as Uma, daughter of Himalaya, to win him once more. Lalitha Sridhar, with inputs from Subhadra Sengupta

offers 16 rooms, a restaurant, spa, yoga, meditation, ashram visits and escorted visits to Har-ki-Pauri for the evening aarti. Hotel Ganga Sadan (Tel: 228322; Tariff: `4,500– 27,000) in Mayapur, with 30 rooms, is also a good option. Haridwar has innumerable ashrams, most of them in the Bhopatwala area. For more, see Haridwar Accommodation Listings on pp292–93. WHERE TO EAT

Meals at the many Mathurawale type of eating houses is recommended. Don’t miss the rabris and barfis, besides kachoris and chaat, at the famous Brijwasi Mithaiwalla in Bada Bazaar. The kachoris at Kashyap Kachori Bhandar are a must-try. Hoshiyar Puri at Ram Ghat is known for delicious meals. On the Upper Road is Mysore Kwality Restaurant, offering vegetarian south Indian snacks and meals. The thalis at Chotiwala Restaurant near Doodhadhari Chowk are also popular. Bhagwati Chole Bhandar is extremely famous for its chole bhature. Mathura Walo ki Pracheen Dukaan has all kinds of sweet delights, but is almost always crowded. ■

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India) Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in

34 Uttarakhand

Inputs by Prerna Singh and Suraj Wadhwa

haridwar

SIMPLY EXITING

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in Uttarakhand 35

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Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

36 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

RISHIKESH

Rishikesh’s verdant landscape

Photographs by shubham mansingka

RISHIKESH THE JOURNEY WITHIN ■ shubham

mansingka

n ancient spiritual centre with a serene location on the banks of the Ganga, Rishikesh is a popular, but tranquil tourist destination. It is believed that Lord Rama performed penance here after killing Ravana, the asura king of Lanka, and that it has been home to many sages since the Satyug. The mighty Ganga River flows through the city bathed in a turquoise-green hue, while the foothills of Garhwal rise from the valley floor a stone’s throw away. Several ancient and new temples have been built along

the banks of the sacred river. The streets are joyous and colourful, with the sound of temple bells accentuating the spirituality that is at the heart of this vibrant city. The city first came under the global spotlight when the Beatles visited the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram for an advanced training session on transcendental meditation in 1968. Today, Rishikesh has many ashrams, which draw thousands of Indians and foreigners who are looking to learn yoga and meditative techniques. Besides being an important spiritual retreat, Rishikesh has recently emerged as a hub for Uttarakhand 37

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Anytime, but it’s less crowded in November and February. September to June is white-water rafting season Tourist offices l GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783/ 93, 2430799, 2435174 Email: yatra@gmvnl.com l GMVN Haridwar. Tel: 01334-228686 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 0135

38 Uttarakhand

ashrams, restaurants, cafés and backpacker accommodations, have been established. Orientation

Ganga Aarti As the sun begins to set, Rishikesh undergoes a magical transformation – a heady mixture of hypnotic prayers and harmonious singing is on offer by the river’s banks. Head to Parmarth Niketan Ashram Ghat or Triveni Ghat to participate in the Ganga aarti. Hundreds of devotees gather to sing hymns while a holy

RISHIKESH bharat aggarwal

Rafting down the Ganga, one of Rishikesh’s many attractions

Trimbakeshwar Temple Visible from Lakshman Jhula, the Trimbakeshwar Temple is locally known as the ‘Tera Manzil Temple’, literally translating to 13-floored temple! There are statues of several deities in various chambers on the different floors of the temple along with important religious and Vedic texts. The view of Rishikesh and the Ganga from the top-most floor is spectacular.

Bharat Temple Located near Triveni Ghat on the banks of the Ganga, Bharat Temple is one of the oldest and most revered Uttarakhand 39

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shrines of Rishikesh. It is believed that it was built in the 8th century CE and the main Vishnu idol, which has been created using Shaligram (a fossilised shell, which occurs naturally in the Himalayas), was installed by Adi Shankaracharya. There is also a museum here, which contains many rare artefacts such as statues, coins and pottery that dates back to some time between the 2nd and 14th centuries CE. Tip Photography is not allowed inside the temple or museum.

Beatles Ashram The Beatles visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram in the late 1960s and practiced transcendental meditation here. It is believed that they wrote 48 songs during their stay, most of which became a part of their White Album and Abbey Road records. Their path has drawn A mural inside the Beatles Ashram

many hippies, music aficionados and spiritual seekers to Rishikesh since then. The ashram almost turned to ruins after several years of neglect. Thankfully, the Forest Department of Uttarakhand stepped in and converted it into an eco-friendly tourist attraction. It was officially re-opened to tourists in December 2015. There are many colourful murals and graffiti decorating the ashram’s walls. u Entry Indians `150; Foreigners `600

Rafting The waters of the Ganga offer a glorious opportunity for white-water rafting in summer as the river is fed with glacial melt. There are numerous companies that offer rafting – you can choose from full day and half-day rafting trips, with a choice of rapids. Costs for a halfday trip are around `600 per person, while a full day trip is approximately `1,200. A reliable local adventure company is Red Chilli Adventure on Lakshman Jhula Road.

Ashrams in Rishikesh It is becoming increasingly difficult for the first-time traveller to find a genuine ashram that has daily yoga classes and chanting sessions in Rishikesh. Over the years, many ashrams have sprung up here but only a few of them have designed a schedule that includes yoga with deep-breathing techniques, meditation, etc. Here is a list of some recommended ashrams. 40 Uttarakhand

RISHIKESH

Yoga and Meditation in Rishikesh Yoga is a spiritual discipline, which aims to unite one’s individual consciousness with the divine. The word literally translates to “union”. The practice includes spiritual, mental and physical exercises. The two most well-known forms of yoga are Hatha and Ashtanga. The other popular styles of yoga are Sivananda, Anusara, Bikram, Iyengar, Kundalini, Jivamukti, Kripalu, Lila, Vinyasa and Viniyoga. Meditation is often practiced before or after a session of yoga. In Hinduism, meditation is considered the most powerful tool for self awareness, and is

Sivananda Ashram: Originally founded by Swami Sivananda, the Divine Life Society runs this ashram located on Lakshman Jhula Road. Advance booking is required to arrange a stay here. u Tel 0135-2430040 Sri Sant Seva Ashram: A favourite with tourists, Sri Sant Seva Ashram has comfortable rooms and regular yoga classes. It has a beautiful location near Lakshman Jhula and overlooks the Ganga. You even have the option of attending interesting courses such as Ayurvedic massage, Reiki and Indian cooking. u Tel 2430465 Parmarth Niketan Ashram: Perhaps the best-known amongst the ashrams in Rishikesh, Parmarth Niketan has a daily schedule, which

an essential step on the path to enlightenment. It is also believed that moksha (spiritual liberation), can be achieved through yoga and meditation. A part of Rishikesh’s festival calendar for many years, the International Yoga Festival is held in the first week of March at Parmarth Niketan Ashram. During this seven-day festival, participants get to attend meditation sessions, yoga classes taught by renowned teachers, listen to lectures on varied subjects such as vegetarianism, epigenetics, and yoga therapy and attend workshops on Reiki, Aromatherapy, etc.

has been designed keeping in mind the average casual tourist. The meals here are excellent and the premises are verdant. The evening aarti is a winning draw. u Tel 2434301-02 Omkarananda Ganga Sadan: For serious yoga enthusiasts, there are daily Iyengar yoga classes here. The Omkarananda Ganga Sadan ashram has its own evening Ganga aarti and the rooms here are comfortable. u Tel 2430763 Where to Stay

Aloha On The Ganges (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: ` 7,400– 36,000, with two meals) in Tapovan is one of the best stay options in Rishikesh. It offers amazing views of the River Ganga, a delectable buffet Uttarakhand 41

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A café with balcony seating overlooking the Ganga River

spread and great hospitality. GMVN has three large, well–maintained and comfortable guest houses. Bharat Bhoomi Tourist Complex (Tel: 2433002; Tariff: `990–2,500) is located on the Dehradun Bypass Road, close to the bus stand and the railway station. Rishilok Tourist Complex (Tel: 2430373; Tariff: `330–2,352) at Muni-ki-Reti, across the road from the riverbank, has similar facilities. Ganga Resort Tourist Complex (Tel: 2438651; Tariff: `3,304–4,956), also in Muniki-Reti, has the best location, on the banks of the Ganga. Another budget option is Phool Chatti Resorts (Cell: 09012320202; Tariff: `1,850– 4,000 per person, with meals and one rafting trip), on the Neelkanth 42 Uttarakhand

Road. The Glasshouse on the Ganges (Cell: 09412076420; Delhi Tel: 011-46661666; Tariff: `9,000– 16,000), in Gular-Dogi Village on the Badrinath Road, is the most luxurious. For more, see Rishikesh Accommodation Listings on pp300–01. Where to eat

Most eateries in Rishikesh serve pure vegetarian food. Alcohol and meat are not allowed in the town. The landmark Chotiwala Restaurant serves traditional food. Try a meal in Hotel The Great Ganga’s restaurant. Health freaks should visit Ajay Juice Centre near Ram Jhula. The German

RISHIKESH

Bakery at Lakshman Jhula has interesting dishes such as yak cheese sandwiches and fruit pancakes. Anna Café offers delicious food. Cafe Del Mar offers Indian and Asian gluten-free vegetarian fare. Ramana’s Organic Cafe serves fresh organic salads and tasty desserts. Little Buddha serves Indian and Israeli fare. Honey Hut offers good coffee and cakes. Around Rishikesh

Vashisht Gufa (20km) Located by the banks of the Ganga, it is so quiet that you can hear the sound of your own heartbeat! According to Hindu mythology, this ancient cave was used by Sage Vashishta, who was one of the seven great Rishis (Saptarishis) of India, to meditate. Neelkanth Mahadev (32km) One of the most revered Shiva shrines in the country, the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple is situated at the confluence of the Madhumati and Pankaja rivers. It is said that this is the spot where Lord Shiva consumed the poison that was produced during the churning of the sea. It turned his throat blue, giving him the name ‘Neelkanth’. The temple has many sculptures depicting this event. n

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (30km/ 45mins) is connected to Delhi by daily flights by carriers such as Air India, Indigo, Jet Airways and SpiceJet. Taxis to Rishikesh cost approximately `1,600 Rail Rishikesh Station, connected to Jammu Tawi, Chakki, Jalandhar, Ludhiana, Ambala, Saharanpur and Haridwar by the daily Hemkunt Express. For other cities, Haridwar Junction is the nearest railhead (25km/ 1hr). Take a bus (1hr) or taxi (`1,200–1,500) to Rishikesh Road Rishikesh is connected to Delhi by NH334 via Meerut, Muzaffarnagar, Roorkee and Haridwar. NH334 continues onwards to Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Chamoli and Badrinath. From Rishikesh, follow NH34 to get onto NH134 to Barkot and Janki Chatti (via Narendranagar, Chamba, Dharasu) to get to Yamunotri Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22158641) has daily bus services between Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar and the Rishikesh stand (Tel: 0135-2430076), and from Faridabad, Gurgaon and Amritsar See Route Planner on p36.

Uttarakhand 43

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Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

44 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

DEHRADUN

The stately façade of the Forest Research Institute

shutterstock

DEHRADUN SwEet Valley High ■ Shubham

Mansingka

estled in the green Doon Valley and fringed by the Shivaliks, Dehradun is Uttarakhand’s capital and the gateway to the hills of Garhwal. The area was occupied by the British in 1816 and was used as an R&R station for its troops. From a quiet hill town, Dehradun transformed into a bustling city after the state of Uttarakhand was formed in 2000. At rush hour, every traveller is likely to experience traffic problems, just like any other urban metropolis in India. While walking

through parts of the old city, you will witness crumbling colonial structures standing beside glitzy new malls. Although commercial complexes have replaced old structures amidst private orchards, there is still something historic, stoic and grand about the city – against all odds, Dehradun has managed to retain its old world charm. Doon Valley is also famous for the production of basmati rice, and for its fruit orchards. There are a few NGOs here working with women from remote parts of the Himalayas and promoting handicrafts and other arts amongst them. Uttarakhand 45

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Things to see and do

Survey of India Museum In the 19th century, the British set about the colossal task of mapping India and this museum documents this event. Instruments used by the surveyors are on display here. Note that entry to the museum is restricted to those with a permit, which can be procured at the Surveyor General’s office at the Survey of India compound. u Timings 9.00am–5.00pm

Clock Tower (Ghanta Ghar) This is one of the most well-known landmarks of Dehradun. It is a sixfaced hexagonal structure, which is made of bricks. The names of freedom fighters have been engraved on the tower. The area has many shops, restaurants and bakeries, etc.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go All year round, but it can get quite hot in June and July Tourist offices ● GMVN 74/ 1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun Tel: 0135-2746817/ 9308 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 0135

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A short distance away is the Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology. As its name suggests, it has a wealth of information on the geology of the mighty Himalayas.

Forest Research Institute Spread over 2,000 acres amidst a verdant estate, the Forest Research Institute (FRI) was established by the British in 1906. Although it was established at Chandbagh first (the present-day location of the Doon School), it moved to its existing location in 1923. The current building was constructed between 1924 and 1929. It is dedicated to the preservation of India’s varied flora and fauna and is one of the oldest institutions of its kind. The red brick building comprises of Mughal towers, Roman columns and delightful archways. It was listed in the Guinness Book of Records for a few years as the largest brick structure in the world. The FRI Museum inside the premises has six sections – the Pathology Museum, the Timber Museum, the Social Forestry Museum, the Entomology Museum, the Silviculture Museum, and the NonWood Forest Products Museum. Guided tours of the museums are possible for a small fee. The Botanical Gardens here are ideal for picnics. u Entry Adults `15; Children `5 Timings 9.00am–5.00pm Closed Gazetted holidays

Ram Rai Durbar Also known as Darbar Sahib, this 17th-century gurudwara was built

DEHRADUN Photos: bharat aggarwal

Dehradun’s Clock Tower (left); Robber’s Cave, a popular picnic spot

by Guru Ram Rai, son of the 7th Sikh Guru, Guru Har Rai, with the help of the then ruler of Garhwal, Fateh Shah. When Aurangzeb defeated Dara Shikoh for the Mughal throne, he summoned Guru Har Rai to his court to question him about his support of Dara Shikoh. Guru Har Rai sent Ram Rai to represent him and he was taken hostage. Aurangzeb probed Ram Rai about a verse in the Adi Granth that vilified Muslims. To appease the emperor, Ram Rai changed the meaning of the verse. Consequently, Ram Rai was excommunicated from the Sikh community by his father and he started his own sect known as the Udasi sect. Darbar Sahib is made with white marble and its main gate has artistic

Mughal, Pahari and Rajasthani murals. The annual Jhanda fair is held here on the fifth day after the Hindu festival of Holi, which attracts thousands of devotees from around the country.

Robber’s Cave A favourite picnic spot in Dehradun, Robber’s Cave is locally called Guchhupani. It has a little rivulet, which disappears underground and reappears a little distance away. The cave is called so because, allegedly, robbers used to frequently and successfully hide from the police here in the past. The cave is accessible by car, but you will have to walk the last 1km to the cave. There are a few dhabas selling Maggi, pakoras and tea near the entrance of the cave. Uttarakhand 47

garhwal Courtesy Darbar Shri Guru Ram Rai

Ram Rai Darbar, an important gurudwara built in the 17th century

The Indian Military Academy

A famous institute that trains officers of the Indian Army, the 1400-acre Indian Military Academy (IMA) was set up in 1932. The main building of the academy, Chetwode Hall, was built in 1930. The military museum inside the academy is a fascinating place to visit. Special permission is required to enter the academy. u Museum timings 10.00am– 1.00pm Closed Weekends and government holidays

Tapkeshwar Temple Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the hilltop Tapkeshwar Temple is set amidst lush green hills beside a small stream. It has a natural Shivalinga inside and water trickles down from the ceiling onto it. The locals refer to the temple as ‘Drona Cave’ as they believe that Dronacharya, the 48 Uttarakhand

guru of the Kauravas and Pandavas in the Mahabharata, resided here. During Shivaratri, a fair is organised on the premises and the temple is packed to the brim with pilgrims. Where to Stay

Some of the business hotels here are Hotel Softel Plaza (Tel: 01352645050; Tariff: `5,000–7,500) and Hotel Viceroy Inn (Tel: 272999598; Tariff: `3,800–8,500) on Saharanpur Road and The Solitaire (Tel: 2532225; Tariff: `6,500–15,000) on Haridwar Bypass Road. Budget choices include Hotel Atithi (Tel: 2625033; Tariff: `1,500–5,500) on Tyagi Road and Hotel Kwality (Tel: 2657001; Tariff: `1,700). For more, see Dehradun Accommodation Listings on pp286–88.

DEHRADUN

WHERE TO EAT

Barista, Nirula’s, Domino’s, Pizza Hut and McDonald’s – Dehradun has them all. Rajpur Road heading north from Astley Hall has no dearth of eateries. The dosas at Kumar’s are popular. Moti Mahal serves good Chinese food, while Ellora’s and Melting Moments Bakery are always crowded. Kalsang Friends Corner has great Tibetan and Chinese food. Around Dehradun

Sahastradhara (10km) The word ‘sahastradhara’ literally translates to ‘thousand fold spring’ and, true to its name, this place boasts of multiple waterfalls beautifully cascading down from the hill. The locals believe that the water of these falls has medicinal properties and cures skin diseases. There is also a temple nearby. Summer months are an especially popular time to visit the falls. Lakhamandal (128km) Located in the Jaunsar-Bawar region of Dehradun district, this ancient temple complex is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is believed that visiting this temple brings people good luck. The main attraction of this temple is the graphite Shivalingam found here. n

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport is located southeast of the city at Doiwala (24km/ 1hr, Tel: 0135-2412053), connected to Delhi by daily flights. Taxis charge `1,600 to the city centre Rail Dehradun Station, located off Gandhi Road, is connected daily to Delhi by the Dehradun Shatabdi and Mussoorie Express and to Mumbai by the Dehradun Express and weekly to Chennai by the Dehradun Express Road From Delhi, head down NH24 and NH34 to the Meerut Bypass. Continue along NH334 to Roorkee via Khatauli and the Muzaffarnagar Bypass. At Roorkee, get onto NH344 to reach Chutmalpur via Mandawar. From Chutmalpur, continue on NH307 for Dehradun, via Mohand Bus Uttara khand Roadways (Tel: 011-23860290) has two daily services (7hrs) between Delhi’s ISBT Kashmere Gate and the Dehradun ISBT (Tel: 0135-2755277). Ordinary buses leave for Dehradun between 5.00am and midnight from Delhi’s ISBT Kashmere Gate. The Volvo bus services (both state-run and private; fare `761) are highly recommended See Route Planner on p44.

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SANJOY GHOSH

The beautiful terraced fields of Pauri

PAURI in the shadow of chaukhamba ■

WILSON JOHN

n impressive welcome awaits those travelling up to Pauri. Being the headquarters of Pauri Garhwal district, the centre of Pauri town is a crowded mess of administrative offices and markets. Yet within a stone’s throw from the noise of the bazaar, a little way away from the main town, Pauri provides the magnificent serenity its location promises. Pines and deodars still whisper in the breeze, and silent, mysterious forests bask in the Himalayan sunlight. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Kandoliya and Bubakhal The temple of the local deity, Kandoliya Devta, is located 2km 50 Uttarakhand

from Pauri on the road to Lansdowne. The walk affords a stunning view of Himalayan peaks and the Gangwarsyun valley. Majestic oaks, pines and deodars, sprinkles of rhododendrons, shrubs and a variety of flowers lining the road make for a very pleasant stroll to Bubakhal, another 4km towards Lansdowne. Bubakhal, itself no more than a tiny mountain village, is a junction from where several minor roads snake across to the many villages on the slopes of the Kandoliya Hills.

Chaukhamba Viewpoint It’s a 4-km walk on the road towards the Dwarikhal forests, to the ridge overlooking the Idwal Valley and Chaukhamba peak – Mountain of Four Pillars – named for its squarish

Pauri

shape. Behind this mighty peak lies the massive Gangotri glacier that feeds the Ganga. Neelkanth peak is in the foreground. Dead east, the glorious peak of Nanda Devi thrusts into the sky. Take in the views, then head to the Dwarikhal forest for a picnic beside the freshwater spring.

Kyunkaleshwar Mahadev It’s a steep trek up to this ancient 8th century temple, but the view that catches you by surprise makes it all worthwhile. There’s a Shivalinga, a statue of Nandi and an ancient drum here, and more stunning views of the entire collage of snow peaks that are visible from the Idwal ridge.

Ransi Trudge half a kilometre uphill to get to Ransi. At 2,132m, Ransi is a huge step in the mountain, where the highest stadium in Uttarakhand lies. This vast stretch of flat green also serves as a beautiful picnic spot. On a sunny day, you could spread out a blanket and doze off to bird calls and the rustling of pines. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The cliffside V Resorts’ Mumukshu Resort (Cell: 09582544084; Tariff: `3,500–4,000) on Devprayag Road is Pauri’s best hotel. They can organize short treks. GMVN’s Tourist Rest House (Tel: 01368-222359; Tariff: `650–1,232) on Kurda Road, has a great location, offers 14 clean rooms and a restaurant. Relish and Garhwal Restaurant are good eating joints on The Mall.

For more, see Pauri Accommodation Listings on p299. ■

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

The information

When to go All year round except in the rains or from January to February Tourist offices ● GMVN Tourist Rest House, Pauri Cell: 09568006680 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Bldg Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel: 011-23350481/ 23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01368 Getting There Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Dehradun (150km/ 5hrs). Taxi to Pauri costs `4,500–5,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Kotdwar (110km/ 3.5hrs), served from Delhi by the Mussoorie Express. Reserved taxi costs `3,000 Road Follow NH34 from Delhi to Meerut, then head for Kotdwar on NH534 via Bijnore and Najibabad; continue along NH534 to Pauri via Dugadda, Gumkhal and Sanglakoti. Uttarakhand Roadways has two services from Delhi’s ISBT Kashmere Gate (Tel 011-23860560/ 8641): 8.30am and 9.30am. The 12–13hr journey costs `420 approximately See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

52 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Mussoorie

Mussoorie offers near-perfect vistas of Himalayan peaks

Shubham mansingka

Mussoorie FOR AFFAIRS OF THE HEART ■ Shubham

Mansingka

itting amongst misty hills, with staggering views of the vast Doon Valley and western Garhwal’s peaks, Mussoorie is India’s favourite Raj-era hill station and truly deserves the moniker ‘Queen of the Hills’. With its air of tranquillity and invigorating climate, Mussoorie was a beloved summer refuge of the British, who established this town in 1823. While the sahibs and their memsahibs are long gone, they have left behind a colonial imprint through their churches and libraries that is still a

defining character of this city. Prior to the British occupation, Nepali Gurkhas occupied this region for a brief period of time. While still an extremely popular tourist destination, Mussoorie is now marred with unchecked urban development. During peak tourist season, roads leading in and out of Mussoorie are chock-a-block; and traffic jams are not uncommon. However, while strolling on the Mall Road on a clear night and witnessing the flickering lights of Dehradun city in the valley below, you will understand why tourists flock here. Uttarakhand 53

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Most tourists prefer to head to this hill station during the summer months between April to June, however, you can visit Mussoorie any time of the year. October and November are recommended as most tourists are long gone and, as local legend Ruskin Bond puts it, “There’s something in the air of the place, especially in October and November, that is conducive to romance and passion”. Orientation

The 35-km ascent towards Mussoorie is marked by hairpin bends affording

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Mussoorie is at its best in March–June and October–early December. Winters are very cold. There may be snowfall in December– January Tourist offices ● GMVN Hotel Garhwal Terrace, The Mall Mussoorie. Tel: 0135-2632682-83 ● GMVN 74/ 1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun Tel: 0135-2746817/ 9308 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 0135

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some brilliant views of the Doon Valley. As you climb higher, there is a stark change in temperature and vegetation. The town itself is perched on a 15-km-long horseshoeshaped ridge, with Tehri Garhwal and the Himalayas to the north, and the Doon Valley and Shivalik Hills to the south. The Mall Road is the hub of all activity, especially in the tourist season when it brims with holidaymakers. It stretches from Library Bazaar at one end to the abandoned Picture Palace Cinema at the other. The cantonment suburbs of Landour are 500m northeast of the Picture Palace. The road is steep, so be prepared for a stiff climb. Else, taxis are easily available, but operate only on a point-to-point basis and are fairly expensive, so make sure you settle on a price before setting off. Things to see and do

Mall Road Mussoorie’s lifeline is a stretch of pedestrian-only road called the Mall. The benches with baroque curlicues and the ornate lamp posts here are a throwback to the colonial period and add to the aura of nostalgia that defines the Mall. Countless shops and restaurants jostle for your attention at Kulri Bazaar, which is the hub of all social, commercial and tourist activity. You will find everything from candles, Tibetan teapots to shawls being sold here. Gaming parlours will keep the kids busy. You will also come across photographers with local costumes

Mussoorie shutterstock

Cable cars take tourists up to Gun Hill from the Mall

you can adorn – a quirky little souvenir to take back home. There is a skating rink in Silverton, across the road from the now defunct Picture Palace, which was once the biggest cinema in India. Library Chowk is at the western end of the Mall Road. You will find the Mussoorie Library there, a building that harks back to Victorian times, which was established in 1843. Access to the Library is, however, limited to members only. Book lovers will be pleased to know that Ruskin Bond, a resident of Mussoorie, signs books at the Cambridge Book store on the Mall every Saturday.

Camel’s Back Road Located along Mussoorie’s upper ridge, the 3-km-long Camel’s Back

Road is a great place for an evening stroll, when the sun sets paints the surrounding mountains in a myriad hues. The road gets its name from a natural outcrop of rocks shaped like a camel’s hump that can be viewed from the road all the way down to Doon. Adjoining the road is a 19th-century cemetery; its cenotaphs and tombstones are visible from a distance, but it is closed to visitors. The regal colonial air of this path will transport you back in time.

Gun Hill Perched 400ft above the Mall is Gun Hill. Before Independence, a cannon placed here was fired every day at noon for people to adjust their watches. You can take a cable car from the Mall Road to reach this hill. Alternatively, Gun Hill is a Uttarakhand 55

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pleasant 30-minute walk from the town. The hill boasts of spectacular views of the surrounding snowcapped peaks on a clear day. There’s an almost fair-like atmosphere in the high season here, when families wander around the food stalls and get their pictures taken in Garhwali costumes. u Cable car ticket `100 (round trip) Timings 8.00am–7.30pm Tel 01352632863

Landour The small cantonment town of Landour is the quieter and better preserved part of Mussoorie. The area originally had barracks for British soldiers. The road from Mussoorie winds upwards for 5km

Winterline During winter a very interesting phenomenon called winterline occurs in Mussoorie. As the sun sets, you will see a straight line of yellow, orange and purple just above the horizon – a horizon that appears to be false! This spectacle is caused by the refraction of sunlight at a particular angle. The Winterline phenomenon is unique to Mussoorie and a small town in Switzerland. To see this magic in action, head to Mussoorie between mid-October and January. Due to the rarity of this phenomenon, Mussoorie even hosts a 5-day Winterline Carnival in the month of December with performances by local artists, besides games and contests.

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and passes through the fascinating Landour Market. At the end of Landour Bazaar is the famous Char Dukan (literally four shops), which attracts tourists and locals alike. There are many shoemakers and antique stores here that must be visited. Captain Young’s Mullingar Estate, the first house built in Mussoorie, is also situated here, however, it is in dire need of restoration. A little further away and higher up is the Sisters’ Bazaar, an area named after the nurses who attended to recovering soldiers. The forested area here is excellent for walks. The air is fresh and misty, and pine, deodar and fir trees line your path. Sister’s Bazaar also has many charming cottages and interesting buildings for the architecture aficionado. Nearby is a cemetery dating back more than 200 years. Visitors, however, are not allowed inside the gates. The best way to explore the area is on foot. Some of the other important sights in here are the Clock Tower, the 17th-century Woodstock School, Kellogg Church and St Paul’s Church (see p58). Landour is home to Ruskin Bond, Victor Banerjee, Tom Alter, and Bill Aitken, amongst many other celebrated personalities. Landour would not have been the beautiful escape it is today had it not been for the Cantonment Act of 1924. The act banned logging and effectively put a stop to rampant construction of buildings in the area.

Mussoorie tribhuvan tiwari

Sunset views at Mussoorie are truly spectacular

Lal Tibba

Red Hill or Lal Tibba is the highest peak of Mussoorie at 2,250 metres. The access to this hill is no longer open, however, there is a 20-m-tall tower here, which boasts spectacular views of the surrounding peaks including Swargarohini and Chaukhamba.

Hathipaon Road A secret treasure of Mussoorie, Hathipaon is called so because of the shape of the hill here re-sembles an elephant’s foot. A walk through a dense forest brings you to an isolated meadow surrounded by pine trees, where local boys play cricket. Hathipaon has two prime attractions: Cloud’s End and the George Everest House. Cloud’s End marks

the end of Mussoorie and is quite a scenic spot. It also has a building that was constructed in the 17th century, which is now a heritage resort. The George Everest House was home to the Surveyor General of India, Sir George Everest. It is now, unfortunately, a neglected remnant of the Colonial Era. The tourism department has recently installed some benches near the bungalow. 2km further up is the Benog Wildlife Sanctuary, which is a delight for birdwatchers.

Churches in Mussoorie Varying in architectural styles, the churches of Mussoorie add the quintessential colonial flavour to this hill town. The gothic-style Christ Church on the Mall Road Uttarakhand 57

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built in 1837 was Mussoorie’s first church. It is set apart by its Gothic design and the pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows that depict various stories from the life of Jesus Christ. The William Hill organ in the church is about 100 years old. A deodar tree, in the churchyard, was planted by Mary, Princess of Wales, in 1906. u Service timings 11.30am on Sundays Tel 0135-2630622 The pretty Union Church lies behind the Picture Palace and was built in 1874; it’s in excellent condition and even has a fresh coat of

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (58km/ 1hr 45min). Taxi to Mussoorie costs `1,600 (one way) Rail Nearest railhead: Dehradun (34km/ 1hr 30 mins). Taxi to Mussoorie same as above. Buses to Mussoorie via Dehradun Railway Station leave from the Dehradun ISBT every half hour from 6.00am–8.00pm Road Mussoorie is an hour’s drive north of Dehradun, and a 269-km/ 7-hr drive from Delhi via Meerut and Dehradun Bus An AC bus (10.30pm; 9hrs; `568) and one non-AC bus (9.30pm; `319) leave daily for Mussoorie from ISBT Kashmere Gate. There are also several Volvo services (`683) to Dehradun from 5.00am–midnight See Route Planner on p52.

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paint! The Central Methodist Church, dating back to 1885, is a stunning building in grey stone and white with arched doorways. In Landour is the Kellogg Church, which was built in 1903. It also houses the Landour Language School. Just next to Char Dukan stands the St Paul’s Church, an eyecatching yellow building surrounded by trees. It was built in 1839 for British troops. It is open only on Sundays for the Mass (9.30am).

Happy Valley Close to Convent Hill, is the Tibetan settlement of Happy Valley. Before the Tibetan government-in-exile moved to Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh, the Dalai Lama and his entourage stayed in Happy Valley for a year. The area now houses the IAS Academy, Municipal Gardens and the Tibetan homes and a Buddhist temple. The settlement overlooks Doon Valley and is surrounded by manicured gardens. Happy Valley is a pleasant walk from the Mall, but you can also reach here by taxi. A short walk from Happy Valley is the wellmanicured Company Bagh, now re-named Municipal Gardens. There is also a small lake here where you can go boating. u Garden entry `40 Boating fee Rates vary with the seasons Timings 9.00am–6.00pm Where to Stay

Jaypee Residency Manor (Tel: 2631800, Cell: 08755301984; Tariff:

Mussoorie Shubham mansingka

Gorgeous trails and paths criss-cross the hills of Mussoorie

`7,250–32,000) in Barlowganj has restaurants, a lovely swimming pool, spa and disco. Kasmanda Palace (Tel: 0135-2632424, 2633949; Tariff: `7,500–10,000) used to be the property of the Christ Church before becoming the holiday retreat for the Kasmanda family. WelcomHotel The Savoy (Tel: 2637000; Tariff: `14,500–19,500), dating back to 1902, started the trend of luxury hotels at this hill station. Another old favourite is Rokeby Manor (Tel: 2635604-06; Tariff: `10,500–12,000) in Landour. The new JW Marriott Walnut Grove Resort & Spa (Tel: 2635700; Tariff: `15,000–36,500) is on Kempty Fall Road. It is the ultimate in luxury with great scenic views. Cloud End Forest Resort (Cell: 09634096861;

Tariff: `5,700–7,499) is a cosy retreat with stunning views, and several trekking trails and paths. It has the largest collection of photographs of old Mussoorie. Hotel Brentwood (Tel: 2632036/ 126; Tariff: `7,500– 11,500) on The Mall has all the amenities for a comfortable stay. Its restaurant serves delicious food. Other options include Hotel Nand Residency (Tel: 2631442, 2632088; Tariff: `4,000–7,400) in Kulri Bazaar; The Golden Palms Hotel & Spa (Tel: 2635525-30; Tariff: `7,000–16,000), opposite Picture Palace, and Royal Orchid Fort Resort (Cell: 07895922255/ 33; Tariff: `6,000–11,000) on Picture Palace Road. Karma Vilas (Tel: 2632316, Cell: 07060214918; Tariff: `5,000–15,000) is in Balahisar. Uttarakhand 59

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For more, see Mussoorie Accommodation Listings on pp297–98. WHERE TO EAT

Do try the street food of Mussoorie, especially steaming bhuttas (corn on the cob), hot, sugary jalebis and piping hot chaat sold just a little above Mall Road. For two-minute wonders, head to Lovely Omelette Centre, which dishes out eggs cooked every which way. The Rice Bowl is famous for its ‘drums of heaven’ and steamed momos, while Kalsang’s Tibetan cuisine is also excellent. For light eaters, Chic Chocolate’s array of comfort food and drinks is an instant favourite. But more popular are its assortment of chocolates. For good south Indian fare, visit Madras Café in Kulri Bazaar. In Char Dukaan, the Chhaya Café works with local women and draws a loyal crowd for its home-made cakes and breads. When you’re at Emily’s in the historic Rokeby Manor of Landour, try their English breakfast and home-made jams. The Landour Bakehouse closeby is also a mustvisit. Stübli has excellent European food. Tavern, styled like an English pub, is conveniently located on the Mall. Live music performances, a wide range of alcoholic beverages

and great make it a good choice for a fun evening. Around Mussoorie

Kempty Falls (14km) This 40-ft perennial waterfall is the highest of five cascades that branch from a mountain stream, cutting its way down steep rock faces. If you want a secluded place for a picnic, climb the steps leading up from the road along the stream. You’ll find yourself in a little rocky dell cleaved by the stream and cooled by water gushing through boulders. Alternately, there is also a ropeway to ferry you back and forth. The steaming tea and Maggi served at various dhabas that line the road are a must-try. Bhatoli (30km) The hamlet of Bhatoli is located in a picturesque valley surrounded by cloudy mountains, an ideal place for away from the bustle of Mussoorie for those interested in a glimpse of rural Garhwal. When you visit, you will see dried corn strung together and hung outside many homes – quite a peculiar sight! A stopover of note in the village is a 100-yearold house where the sarpanch currently resides. ■

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Inputs by Fahad Mustafa

Mussoorie

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Rafting down the Tons, a tributary of the Yamuna River

Photographs by tribhuvan tiwari

Kalsi yamuna in her element ■ RANEE

SAHANEY

estless and belligerent from its Himalayan odyssey, the Yamuna River bursts out of the hills in the Jaunsar-Bawar region and into the Doon Valley at Kalsi, to continue its travels across the great Indian plains. The young, bubbly, crystal-clear stream is a far cry from the sullen, withered creature you encounter in Delhi or Agra. Little known Kalsi slumbers on the banks of the young Yamuna. Once an important little township in the Jaunsar-Bawar region, it faded over time into a quiet little village. 62 Uttarakhand

In earlier days it marked one of the furthest limits of the dominion of King Ashoka. Today this tiny hamlet by the Yamuna shoulders its historic lineage with quiet ease. Situated in the cleft of the hill states of Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh, this gorgeous tract of land, nourished by the confluence of the Yamuna River and its Tons tributary, offers some of the finest landscapes of the Doon Valley. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The perfect scenery invites long drives and leisurely picnics by the

Kalsi

riverside and for the more active, there’s river rafting and angling, hikes and treks. An incredibly charming and easy 3.5-km long walking trail runs along the ashram road past the boundary wall of the Snow Lion Estate and all the way to Katta Pathar Village, where the Yamuna River first bursts out of the mountains. The village gets its name from a now extinct iron mine. To your left are the glorious 180o panoramas of the Chakrata Hills, with the turbulent Yamuna River below. In the monsoons, river crossings in the shallows are rewarding for anglers who can find a secluded spot to lure mahseer. Punctuating the riverbanks are neat little beaches where you can have great picnics once the monsoon waters recede. Cross the stream rushing down to the river, by the quaint little wooden bridge, go pebble hunting along the banks past the water mill where the villagers bring their corn to be ground in fair weather.

Drives and picnics Tours and picnics out of Kalsi allow you to widen your explorations of this side of the Doon. The confluence of the Tons and Yamuna rivers is an exceptionally pretty place. You’ll be crossing over from Uttarakhand to Himachal Pradesh’s Sirmour district when you traverse the iron bridge over the Tons on the road to Koti, where there’s a lovely waterfall and a nice rest house. Hop out to capture panoramic views of the TonsYamuna confluence. Further up, a

rippling stream, off the shoulder of the road, is a safe place for kids to play in the water. The drive to the Asan Barrage past the power house and Dak Pathar further on will enchant you with views of waterways and birding opportunities. En route to Paonta Sahib via the serene and verdant Timli Pass is a delight. It’s through here that columns of British soldiers once moved to assist Major General Ochterlony in his retaliations against Gurkha General Amar Singh Thapa’s army.

For the history buff Cross the new iron bridge over the Yamuna to Haripur (see the handsome carved stone piers of the old cantilever bridge on your right) and the Kalsi Bazaar, where a rocky path leads down to the celebrated

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go All year round Tourist offices ● GMVN 74/ 1, Rajpur Road Dehradun Tel: 0135-2746817/ 9308 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01360

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Ashokan Rock Edict, situated on the river bank. Housed within a brick structure is the 2,200-year-old rock edict of Emperor Ashoka, discovered by an Englishman in the year 1860. When first discovered, the rock was covered with the grime of ages. Once this film of moss was cleaned, the surface emerged almost marble white. The Kalsi edict appears to be in fine condition in comparison to other Ashokan edicts. The inscribed pearshaped quartz boulder (10ft high, 10ft long and 8ft wide) is the third of 14 scattered in the outer reaches of the emperor’s dominion. The

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun(75km/ 3hrs). Taxi to Kalsi costs about `2,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Dehradun Station, served by two Shatabdis from Delhi Road From Dehradun (49km/ 2hrs), take the Chakrata Road to Herbertpur, and then state road to Kalsi via Vikasnagar. From Delhi (288km/ 7hrs), take NH44 to Pipli via Kundli, Rai, Sonepat, Panipat and Karnal; SH to Bata Pul via Ladwa, Yamunanagar, Jagadhri and Khizrabad; NH907 to Paonta Sahib via Bata Pul and then state roads to Kalsi via Asan Barrage, Herbertpur and Vikasnagar See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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names of five Greek kings – Antiochus, Ptolemy, Antigonus, Magus and Alexander – inscribed on the rock helps date the edict, the writings on which were done in the 3rd century BCE or more specifically around 253 BCE. Shopping

Traditionally opium, turmeric, chillies and ginger were grown in the Jaunsar region. Today Vikasnagar (10km) is the wholesale depot for potato and ginger coming in from the surrounding villages. But the best buys here by far are the local Jaunsari drums and bugles, trumpets and icons in brass and copper at the bartanwallah. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Situated across the river from Kalsi Village, Snow Lion Estate (Cell: 09810076770, 09810219667; Tariff: on request) is the only accom modation option. It is a restored and redeveloped Raj-era lodge belonging to General Gurdeep and Rano Uban. The sprawling resort is set in seclusion amidst 22 acres of expansive lawns, enjoying grandstand vistas of the terraced fields on the banks of the turbulent Yamuna. The refurbished lodge is embellished with massive windows that frame the glorious vistas. Every room has a view and deluxe rooms have a private lounge. There is no room service and meal timings are fixed. Activities on offer include billiards, croquet, volleyball, bad-

Kalsi

A teacher guides her students as they practise yoga

minton, and soft adventure sports. You need to call and book ahead as the estate is highly popular. If you go shopping for brass and copper items, do stop for a bite at the vegetarian Kumar Palace Restaurant, which serves Indian and Chinese cuisines. For more, see Kalsi Accommo足dation List足ings on p295. AROUND KALSI

Asan Barrage Wildlife Sanctuary (22km) This wetland, created by harnessing the waters of the Yamuna and the Asan rivers to the west of the Doon Valley, is less commonly referred to as the Dhalipur Lake. It attracts

scores of resident and migratory birds, with the waterbird population peaking in the winter months. The caco-phony of squabbling and shrieking, cooing and calling fills the tranquil waters, tiny island marshes and the adjoining paddy fields and open woodland of sal and scrub. So birders and naturalists can joyfully look forward to sightings of the great crested grebe, red crested pochard, tufted duck, whiskered tern and nume足rous varieties of eagles and kingfishers. Go armed with binoculars and a field guide and enter a brand new world of adventure. In the tea estate tract edging the lake across from the lookout, you can hear the partridge call while pygmy wood足peckers, barbets, common wood Uttarakhand 65

garhwal madhu kapparath

The usual landscape enroute to Chakrata

shrike and the noisy gray woodland lapwings fling themselves from branch to branch in the lazy drizzle. GMVN arranges birding trips, boating and kayaking in the Asan Dam and also has a Tourist Rest House (Tel: 01360-224098; Tariff: `3,500, dorm bed `300). Close by is a small park run by the Forest Department. You’ll get fabulous views of the Giri and Yamuna rivers from here. In a small enclosure you’ll find cheetal, ducks and rabbits. Paonta Sahib (27km) This important gurudwara at the trijunction of Himachal, Haryana and Uttarakhand is where the tenth guru of the Sikhs, Guru Gobind Singh lived for several years, after his father Guru Tegh Bahadur was 66 Uttarakhand

beheaded by Aurangzeb. It is here that Guru Gobind Singh honed his skills in the art of warfare. Paonta is full of gurudwaras associated with the Tenth Guru. Gurudwara Bhangani Sahib commemorates Guru Gobind Singh’s first battle when he defeated Raja Fateh Shah. Gurudwara Tirgarh Sahib was built on the hillock from where Guru Gobind Singh shot arrows at his enemies. At Gurudwara Shergarh Sahib, the guru beheaded a dangerous man-eating tiger with a single swipe of his sword. The museum here has on display the guru’s pens and weapons of his time. Chakrata (22km) A quaint little cantonment, Chakrata has managed to its original

Kalsi

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charm from the days when it was established by Colonel Hume and fellow officers of the British 55th Regiment, 147 years ago. The military is still around; Chakrata is home to a branch of the army’s special forces. This rugged Himalayan country side is the training ground for all kinds of commando courses. The town lies above the Yamuna Valley in the Garhwal Himalayas and is approached from Dehradun either via Mussoorie or Kalsi. From the Kalsi side, only Indians are allowed to drive through the army checkpost to Chakrata. If you go from Mussoorie, via Kempty Falls, the road takes you to Yamuna Pul, the bridge over Yamuna as it flows out of the mountains into the terai. The sub-Himalayan jungle here is full of khaleej pheasant and the Himalayan blue magpie. And the higher you climb, the views of the Yamuna river only get better. Tip The Kalsi Army Checkpost has a nominal toll charge. But it’s also single-lane traffic from here on to Chakrata, since the road is pretty narrow. It’s better to take the Dehradun-Mussoorie route, which is about 20-odd km longer but is a newer, barrier-free road. Walks in Chakrata are beautiful – the Tiger Falls, at 312ft the

second highest in India, is a pleasant 5-km walk from the bazaar, just one of the many walks around. Take in the views of the Banderpoonch Massif and the Swarga and Rohini peaks, amongst others, from Chilmiri Neck. Short drives in any direction will bring you to terrific Jaunsari locations. Jaunsar, the region of Garhwal in which Chakrata lies, is as beautiful as it is interesting. The local Jaunsaris have interesting matrimonial customs – polygamy and polyandry are practised – and the usual festivals are celebrated with some bizarre local adaptations, with buffalo sacrifices giving certain festivals a particularly gory touch. Deoban (9,400ft) is a dramatic 13-km drive away from Chakrata. It is here that our Special Forces conduct their training and you will notice incredibly steep rock faces on which soldiers learn mountaineering. The views along this stretch are grand. The entire Greater Himalayan Range lies along the horizon. Tip Since you are travelling into the army training area, you will have to get a permit (made out at the forest barrier) when you leave Chakrata, to visit Deoban. ■ With inputs by Anjali Abhyankar-Roy

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LANSDOWNE

Mist enveloped hillsides are a common feature in Lansdowne

Gireesh gv

LANSDOWNE The Virgin Hills ■ Shivam

vij

lorious as heaven itself must be, I have always thought the gates of heaven must be its crowning glory. That at least is true of Lansdowne, as you reach Kotdwar and find the sky measured out in grey and blue. The grey is the hills of Pauri Garhwal that you are going to climb up to reach this oak and pine bordered town the British loved. Try to do the 40-km drive up to Lansdowne before sunset, or you will miss a grand experience. As the road goes uphill, watch the mist rise

with you, out of nowhere. Pass by villages and say hi to the kids. Feel in your bones the climate change. Stop at the village of Dugadda midway, walk across the swinging bridge, and promise yourself to pick up, when returning, some pebbles from the bed of the invisible River ‘Khoh’. On entering Lansdowne after an unexpected turn on the KotdwarPauri road, the first thing you will come across is the elegant Garhwal Rifles Cantonm ent. Lansdowne exists in, around and because of the cantonment. The Cantonment Board is in charge of the civic Uttarakhand 69

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administration of the town and ensures strict observance of all laws. This saves Lansdowne from haphazard development. Formerly known as Kalundanda, the town was first inhabited by the British in 1887, and in 1890 was named after Lord Lansdowne – Sir Henry PettyFitzMaurice, the 5th Marquess of Lansdowne and Viceroy of India from 1888 to 1894. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

There are places in the hills that have no tourist infrastructure whatsoever, and there are places done to death by the regular tourist crowd, with a noisy Mall Road and unkempt trekking routes. Lansdowne is neither. The town is so small – spread Malgudi-like across a little over 6km – that you can see it all in a day. There is little “to do”

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Visit any time of the year except January Tourist offices l GMVN Tourist Rest House Lansdowne. Tel: 01386-262509 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01386

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here. Come for the peace and calm, or to spend a quiet weekend with your loved ones.

Bhulla Lake This small, shallow lake has been developed with the twin aims of attracting tourists and harvesting rainwater. While you spend time boating in the lake, remember that this lake has revived some of the dead natural springs in the town. And bhulla is Garhwali for little brother, a minor example of the warmth the people of the place exude. ◆ Location Near Army School Boating charges `40–50 for 30min Timings 9.00am–noon & 3.00– 6.00pm

Tiffin Top and Snow View Point These vantage points offer an amazing view of the snow-clad peaks of Chaukhamba and Trishul. The sunset seen from here is especially remarkable (but remember that you will see only white mist in the summer or monsoons). These are also good places to trek or picnic. Tiffin Top is near the Supply Depot and is locally called Tip and Top. The way to Snow View Point is from above the State Bank of India branch. Pay your respects at the Santoshi Maa Temple here.

St Mary’s and St John’s Both these churches are at Tiffin Top. The former is an Anglican Church that has been partially turned into a reading room, for there are few of the Protestant faith

LANSDOWNE

Picturesque Bhulla Lake provides the perfect setting for a picnic

left in Lansdowne. Those Protes tants that remained after the British left have apparently all converted to Roman Catholicism, according to locals, who now attend mass at the neighbouring St John’s Church. Still, visit St Mary’s for its beautiful stained glass windows. ◆ Timings Closed 2.00–4.00pm Library timings 8.00am–1.00pm & 2.00–5.00pm The resultantly much more cheerful St John’s Church, run by the Catholic Diocese of Bijnor, has a Sunday service. ◆ Service timings 9.00–10.00am

Darwan Singh Sangrahalaya The War Museum is the only thing the army has opened to tourists. Here you will find fantastic memorabilia

from the wars the Garhwal Rifles has fought, such as the earliest Pakistani currency notes and flags of the Axis powers from the Great War. ◆ Location Near State Bank of India Entry fee `35 Timings 9.00am– noon & 3.00–6.00pm

Centenary Gate Built in 1887 to commemorate the centenary of the founding of the Garhwal Rifles, this giant gate lists out the wars the Garhwal Rifles have fought. Civilians can’t enter, but at 8.00am you can see the daily march past of the soldiers from outside the gate. A little ahead on the same road, you will find such utilities as an SBI ATM, a cyber café and a liquor shop. Uttarakhand 71

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◆Location

Dhura Road, ahead of the Kaleshwar Mandir

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (135km/ 6hrs). Taxi costs `4,000–4,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kotdwar (40km/ 1.5hrs), connected to Delhi. Taxi `800, shared jeep `70–80 per head Road From Delhi, head to Meerut on NH24 and NH34. Just before Meerut, don’t take the left fork onto the Meerut Bypass. Take the right fork (Mawana Bypass, after Ghaziabad) and follow NH34 to Najibabad via Bijnor and Kiratpur. From Najibabad, take NH534 to Dugadda via Kotdwar. At Dugadda, turn right for the beautiful drive to Lansdowne, following the Khoh River part of the way, along a 2-lane welltarred mountain road Bus Buses run from ISBT Kashmere Gate, New Delhi (011-23860290) to Kotdwar Bus Stand between 6.30am and 10.00pm See Route Planner on pp24–25.

Bhim Pakora When the Pandavas were in agyaatvaas, the legend goes, Bhim picked up a boulder and placed it atop another boulder here, on the outskirts of Lansdowne.

Shiv Kaleshwar Mandir Nobody seems to know exactly how old this ancient temple is. It derives its name from Kalash Rishi, whose penance bore fruit here. An important place of pilgrimage, it is maintained by the army. ◆ Location Near Army Durga Temple Timings 7.00–11.00am & 3.00–6.00pm WHERE TO STAY and eat

Fairydale Resort (Tel: 01386-262599, Cell: 09412081837, 09412025206; Tariff: `3,900–6,900, with two meals) is a great option, as is the Blue Pine Resort (Tel: 263088, Cell: 098995 99229; Tariff: `9,600–15,100, with two meals). GMVN’s Tourist Rest House (Tel: 262509; Tariff: `1,200– 2,800) is comfortable, but their Tip N Top (Tel: 263109; Tariff: `2,200– 6,500) is much better. Both the GMVN properties offer good food. Try the dhabas or cafés near the bus stand. They have decent aloo parathas and pakoras. There are also some chaat shops and a milkshake parlour in the main bazaar. For more, see Lansdowne Accommodation Listings on pp296–97. n

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Towering trees with mossy trunks cover the hills here

prashant panjiar

CHAMBA THE DOMINION OF CLOUDS ■ SANKARSHAN

THAKUR &

monica mody

ne moment we were on a hilltop, the next on a cloud. A chill, wispy caravan lifted up almost from nowhere and all too suddenly and then we were adrift in a world all our own, astride a cold cloud. The transport from the real to the magical was as sudden and startling as Harry Potter crashing into that brick wall on Platform 93/4 to enter the world of Hogwarts: the cloud swept up the hill and past the hilltop and transformed everything. Suddenly, the sky had vanished and the hills all around were gone. The 74 Uttarakhand

little town and its people and its twisting lanes and distant lights had all disappeared. And all there was was a translucent cottonwool jungle drowning in its own silence. Someone switched on the sodium vapour lamps on the winding drive up to the resort: they looked like blurred blossoms popping in a dream. Then Sadhuram emerged from the mists bearing a tray of cosied tea and said this is what Chamba is like most evenings and nights – the dominion of clouds. We were inside the mammoth glasshouse the resort has erected on a promontory overlooking the merging valleys cut by the

CHAMBA

Bhagirathi and the Alaknanda. Suddenly, enveloped by nothing but floating cloud and sodium lights twinkling in thick dew, it was like being on deck chairs in a skyship. It is like no place you might expect within seven hours from Delhi. Lack of exposure has kept in Chamba what most hill stations have lost or are fast losing – the air of remoteness, of being somewhere else, somewhere special. Chamba is a getaway in a very real sense. When you get to Chamba, you have got away from most of the things that you want to get away from in a metropolis – crowds, traffic, pollution, decibels, routine. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Chamba isn’t much of a town, more a junction en route to higher and better-known destinations in the Tehri Hills: Gangotri, Yamunotri, the controversial Tehri Dam and New Tehri. But you don’t go to Chamba to pitch up in the middle of town. You look for higher, quieter nooks in the surrounding hills.

A Cosy Nook You’ll find none better than the Classic Hilltop, which, as its name suggests, is located on a hilltop directly above the township. You spiral steeply up a thousand feet on to what is perhaps nature’s favoured piece of masonry in these parts – a spacious summit that enjoys 360o of panorama. The resort spreads itself all over the top and the slopes. A health spa and Kerala massage

centre to one side; a pet pen full of wild hares and honking geese to the other. Rolling botanical gardens, a gym, a children’s park with swings and slides and merry-go-rounds… even a swimming pool, for heaven’s sake! But why that at such a height? This is after all a good thousand feet above Chamba Town and gets snow during the winter. But the caretakers would tell you that things get fairly heated up during summer months, again on account of the resort’s height and the direct sun it gets: the pool waters get gently warm and visitors have found it a pleasant quirk to go swimming on a hilltop.

The Great Outdoors On clear mornings, the Himalayas lie burnished on the northern skyline

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go The best times to visit are summer (March–June) and autumn (October-end to November). The views are best in winter (December–February) Tourist offices ● GMVN Hotel Garhwal Terrace, The Mall Mussoorie. Tel: 0135-2632682-83 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01376

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– snowcapped peaks etched on the horizon like some overdone painting. Chamba is still a fairly pristine and protected world; the hills are well forested and unbreached. Sometimes, by dark, you can hear the growl of a panther. And you will often see or hear furtive hares and jackals, darting about in the bushes. About the best thing about getting away to a place like Chamba is that there are no existing prescriptions on places to see or things to do.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (125km/ 4hrs via Rishikesh). Taxi to Chamba via Rishikesh costs about `4,000–4,500 for a drop Rail Nearest railhead is Haridwar (84km/ 3hrs; see p32 for connections). Taxi costs the same as above Road NH34 connects Chamba to Narendranagar (43km) and onwards to Rishikesh (16km). Rishikesh is on NH7 which connects to NH34 from Haridwar Roorkee, Muzaffarnagar and Meerut en route to Delhi. Chamba is equally accessed from Mussoorie (67km). From Delhi, follow the route to Mussoorie from Roorkee, then proceed to Chamba via Landour, Dhanaulti and Kanatal Bus A daily overnight Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22141611) bus (`374) going to New Tehri from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar stops at Chamba See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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Do nothing and you’ll have done what you came here to do. And for eager beavers in the poor habit of making a holiday more of a rushabout than the city, there are walks – endless prospects of meandering in the thick forests, interminable little hill trails to traipse. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The four-star Classic Hilltop Resort (Tel: 01376-255836, Cell: 094120 74108; Tariff: `4,500–8,500) in Chamba is located in seven acres of verdure. It has 32 well-appointed rooms. There’s a pool for grown-ups and a separate one for kids, a spa and jacuzzi, and a glasshouse that doubles as an entertainment locale or a place to hang out and enjoy the views. The resort also arranges treks, safaris and camping trips. The multi-cuisine rest aurant here welcomes walk-ins. Amar Hotel & Resort (Tel: 252404, 252229; Tariff: `1,250–3,000) in Ranichauri is slightly away from the town. It is a good budget option with 11 rooms and a restaurant. GMVN’s Tourist Rest House (Cell: 09568006647; Tariff: `910–1,240) here has a good location, but is not well maintained. Mercury Himalayan Explor ations Camp (Delhi Tel: 01123340033/ 6209) is an eco-sensitive, seasonal camp operating in May and June, September and October. Check details at the time of booking. For more, see Chamba Accommodation Listings on p286.

CHAMBA Courtesy Classic Hilltop Resort

The hills of Chamba are perfect for a relaxing getaway AROUND CHAMBA

Kanatal (15km) About 15km down the twirling road from Chamba to Dhanaulti is Kanatal. It was mid-morning when we reached our hotel, and we decided to go in search of its eponym. Kanatal, I was told, is a cameo of a spot abutting a little lake from which the place gets its name. It turned out we were, strictly speaking, not at Kanatal (kana literally means sukha: the lake had dried up years ago), but at neigh bouring Rauslikhal Village. Not that I felt cheated. Green hills and valleys stretched out in front of us, and a dense conifer forest behind us. We saw immense possibilities for walks. Walking downhill five minutes through the forest behind Kanatal’s

The Hermitage hotel took us to an extraordinary world where even the wind barely spoke through the trees. Walking left, beyond the teashop and the resort’s standalone cottage, got us back to the mobile phone network and on to the scenic trail towards Bhairiyadunga and its tiny Parvati Temple. Walking in the other direction, for about 2km, brought us to some stone steps leading up to the placid Surkhandeshwar Mahadev Temple which had the loveliest vantage: several undulating tracts of hills in varying shades of blue and green, rising out from behind each other. Kanatal is a holiday where you can either relax or walk a lot. The still lush Kodiya forest is 7km away towards Chamba. The Batwaldhar forest, 7km from Kanatal en route to Dhanaulti, is thick with chir, deodar Uttarakhand 77

garhwal TRIBHUVAN TIWARI

Verdant mountains near Dhanaulti

and fir trees. The Blue Dahlia Farms here grow organic herbs and vegetables. Further ahead towards Dhanaulti, Surkhanda Devi is a revered 13th-century shrine atop the mountain, dedicated to Sati, Shiva’s consort. Devotees throng the temple during the months of May and June for the Ganga Dussehra fair. Kanatal has quite a few stay options, all located on the MussoorieChamba Road. The Hermitage (Tel: 01376-283014, Cell: 09917008883; Tariff: `5,000–7,000), which is,

strictly speaking, not really in Kanatal but in Rauslikhal. It has rooms and a patio where bonfires will warm you up in the cold evenings and from where, through a gap between the trees, you can spot the Nandaghunti Peak on clear days. It has a recreation room where you can play table tennis and carrom, as well as a courtyard to play badminton and basketball. The restaurant here serves good food. The Terraces (Tel: 26801411-12; Tariff: `15,000–22,000, with two meals for 1N/ 2D) is a short walk away from the real Kanatal. All of its rooms and cottages have a view, jacuzzi and a fireplace. It has three restaurants, gym, a playground, a camping ground and five acres for organic farms. They organise trekking, day picnics and jeep safaris. Another high-end option is Club Mahindra Kanatal (Cell: 08393011166/ 77/ 55; Tariff: `8,500) at the 11th milestone, offering 37 rooms, a restaurant, bar, spa, gym, adventure activities and indoor games. Camp Carnival (Cell: 099116 74000/ 82000; Tariff: `1,450–1,600 per person) and Camp Thangdar (Cell: 07838348955; Tariff: `1,000– 1,200 per person) both offer tents and adventure activities such as rock climbing, rappelling, camping and games. 

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

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garhwal

alamy images / india picture

The ancient Vishwanath Temple attracts several devotees from across India

UTTARKASHI In Search of Hidden Garhwal ■ Suzanne Schulz, Vivek Narayanan & SHUbham mansingka

fter hours of uphill roads, suddenly, you find yourself descending into the breathtaking vista of a circular, stadiumlike valley, dropping as low as 900m above sea level. Your stunned eye travels down the face of the mountains, with their forests of rhododendron, pine and oak. It crosses long, vertical gashes of rock – scars left by landslides on an awesome scale – down past small, deep green squares of subsistence cultivation, and down further to 80 Uttarakhand

the banks of the pounding, sometimes capricious Bhagirathi. There, you spot a quite lively, bustling and lovely town: Uttarkashi, the district headquarters. This rapidly spreading town is choc full of ashrams and temples, which draw a large number of devout Hindus. According to legend, Uttarkashi was founded as the alternative to Kashi (Varanasi). Hence, its name translates to ‘Kashi of the North’. It also happens to lie on the route of the Char Dham pilgrimage (see p162) and hence is an important stopover point f or pilgrims.

UTTARKASHI

Orientation

The ancient Vishwanath Temple is close to the main market and the bus stand, and options for eating and checking your email are not far away. There are several other temples in and around town. The town’s winding, old-style market – the Bada Haat – is quite lively. You can (and will have to) walk to various places, and this usually means uphill. The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering is about 5km away. Ujeli, a kilometre from the centre of Uttarkashi, is a village known historically for its scholars and a row of very old ashrams along the Bhagirathi where you can find accommodation. Taxis and shared jeeps (`30–50 per head) for Ujeli are available at the bus stand. From Uttarkashi, you can take short daytrips out to secluded hill temples or high-altitude meadows, or undertake more ambitious multiday treks to near-mythic places such as Dodital (see p84). Keep in mind that nowhere is as near as it seems on the map. If your journey will involve some trekking, such as with Nachiketa Tal (see p86), allow yourself enough time to rest and appreciate the landscape along the way. Things to do and see

Depending on your energy level, you may hire guides, porters and equipment for your adventure. Or you might detoxify in one of the many ashrams on the banks of the river itself, paying visits to

Uttarkashi’s many shrines dedicated both to the canonical deities of the Hindu pantheon and a host of local devtas. The Vishwanath Temple, next to the main market, mirrors the one at Kashi in many ways and is considered by some to be as important. Uttarkashi is also known as a central place to immerse the ashes of the dead, especially by travellers from the south. Facing it is the Shakti Temple, which has a large and splendid iron and copper trident. There were once 365 temples here – the ones dedicated to Annapurna Devi, Kali Bhairon and Parshuram are still significant.

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fast facts When to go March to April and July to October are ideal. Visit during the Panchkoshi Devta procession between February and April, Diwali in November when pine tree oil is burned, or during the Magh Mela from 14–21 January. May and June are very crowded Tourist offices ● GMVN Tourist Rest House, Uttarkashi Tel: 01374-222271, 222222 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01374

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Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM)

NIM, as it is best known, is an essential part of the subconscious of Uttarkashi and has inspired many local entrepreneurs who are graduates of the institute. Established in 1965, the institute offers courses meant to instill strength and endurance while simultaneously teaching learners about the

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (172km/ 8hrs), connected to Delhi by Air India, Jet Airways and SpiceJet flights. A taxi to Uttarkashi costs `4,000–4,500 approx. Contact Drona Travels, 45, Gandhi Road, Dehradun (Tel: 0135-2653309) or Triveni Travels (Tel: 2432989, 09412050362) Rail Nearest railhead: Dehradun (172km/ 8hrs, see pxxx for connections) Road A long drive along national highways from Delhi; set off early. Take NH34 to Haridwar via Meerut; carry on for Uttarkashi via Narendranagar and Chamba on NH34. From Dharasu (31km), keep to the right on NH34 and be on the lookout for a right turn to Matli (after Nakuri) to reach Uttarkashi Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 01122141611) has a daily overnight bus service (`526) between Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar to Uttarkashi and two-day services from Dehradun at 9.30am See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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ecosystem of the Himalayas. Many of India’s famous women mountaineers have graduated from here. The institute is a pleasant destination for the day visitor. Its campus overlooks Uttarkashi and has two artificial climbing walls, a gift shop with trekking equipment, books and NIM memorabilia, and a café. The Himalayan Museum, on the premises, was closed for renovations at the time this book went to print. You might also want to enroll in short-term adventure courses (two weeks long), available throughout the year. These cost approximately `4,000. Both basic and advanced mountaineering courses cost `7,500 for 28 days. The fee includes room and board and all course expenses. uLocation Near Tehri Lake on NH108 (Gangotri Road) Tel 01374222123 W nimindia.org

Angling You can’t keep the fish because the Forest Department enforces a strict ‘catch and return’ policy. However, if you’re patient and willing, angling for brown trout and rainbow trout along the Asi Ganga stream might be an ideal and unusual way to combine hiking and meditation. Contact Anil Kuriyal (Cell: 0847 5821681) at the Kuflon Basics Resort (see ‘Where to Stay’) , to arrange trips, which cost `350 (2–3hrs) per person, permit fee extra.

Trekking Uttarkashi is a major trekking hub, and is the base town for treks to Har-

UTTARKASHI Courtesy NIM

Budding mountaineers undergoing a training course

ki-Dun (see p221) and Yamunotri. A number of guides and hotels offer trekking packages. Rana (Cell: 09412 140953) and Deependra Panwar (Tel: 01374-222270; Cell: 0941298 4183) are amongst the operators you could get in touch with. Mount Support (Cell: 094113 70570) on Gangotri Road is one of many places where you can pick up equipment for long treks, or hire guides and porters. WHERE TO STAY

A little away from the hustle-bustle of Uttarkashi are a couple of excellent nature resorts. During peak season from April to June, pilgrims come streaming through town and make advance reserÂvations

advisable. Anil Kuriyal runs Kuflon Basics (Cell: 08475821681; Tariff: `5,000 per person), a nice, rustic getaway in a hillside setting above the Asi Ganga valley. It serves as an excellent base camp for long hikes out, for which Anil will set you up. There are three tents, with clean, modern toilets at the edge of the woods nearby, as well as rooms in two main cottages with attached bathrooms. The tariff includes some lovely home-style meals. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re also welcome to cook in the kitchen. Shikhar Nature Resort (Cell: 09717891140; Tariff: `4,800) is 5km from Uttarkashi on the Gangotri Road, on a three-acre estate on the banks of the Bhagirathi. It has 22 cottage-tents, which are good for corporate getaways. Uttarakhand 83

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There are many reasonably priced hotels in nearby Ujeli, with a fine view of the river. Among budget options, the best is Hotel Everest (Tel: 222734; Cell: 09412077508; Tariff: `1,200–1,800). The owner of Everest, Major RS Jamnal, runs a local alternative school and is a walking encyclopaedia on traditions of and locations in Uttarkashi. In mid-range, Monal Tourist Home (Tel: 222270; Cell: 094129 84183; Tariff: `999–3,299) is a wonderful small, inviting guest house with home-cooked meals. The hands-on owner, yet another loyal graduate of NIM, is a great fund of information about the area, and also runs several activities, including treks, local food and local music concerts. The serene Dodital Lake

Hotel Shivlinga (Cell: 094120 77718; Tariff: `3,000–5,500), on the Gangotri Road at Ujeli, is a spacious ‘tourist complex’ from where you can easily walk to the river’s edge. GMVN’s Tourist Rest House (Cell: 09568006693; Tariff: `1,793–4,130) has a restaurant, and offers room service and televisions. The delectable local dessert, jhangora kheer, is on the menu here. For more, see Uttarkashi Accommo dation Listings on pp303–04. WHERE TO EAT

Most of the restaurants in Uttarkashi serve standard vegetarian fare. A number of the smaller places will cook Garhwali food upon special request. October sees a food festival in Uttarkashi. This event is worth attending: you’ll get to sample unusual and tasty foods made from local grains and legumes such as jhangora (barnyard millet), mandua (finger millet) and bhatt (black soybeans), as well as a delicious raita made with mustard seeds and rotis made from mandua flour. Ananda Bakers is popular for its sweet biscuits, cakes and savouries. Shangri-La Kitchen serves good Chinese and Italian. Also visit Bhola Juice Centre next to the bus stand. Around Uttarkashi

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Dodital (14km) From Uttarkashi, a short drive takes you to the last roadhead for the starting point of the hike to Dodital

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UTTARKASHI

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(‘tal’ means lake), which lies at 3,100m above sea level. It is one of the most popular in Garhwal, which isn’t surprising since hikers are rewarded with a majestic view of a serene lake surrounded by alpine forests at the end. The trek begins at Agoda village and it is possible to reach Dodital in one day (16km). Although certain parts of the route can get steep, it is a relatively easy climb on the whole. The trail passes through the beautiful Asi Ganga River Valley and some hikers trek all the way up to Darwa Top (4,100m) for fabulous views of the mountains and the valley. Nachiketa Tal (33km) A 30km drive from Uttarkashi brings one to a place called Chaurangi Khal, the starting point of the relatively easy 3-km hike to Nachiketa Tal. The trail cuts through a dense rhododendron forest before ending at the pristine body of water. If you time your trip right, you will be lucky to find the forest in full bloom (April/ May), when the entire hillside turns red. There is a temple dedicated to Nachiketa, the young philosopher, on the bank of the lake. The dhabas at Chaurangi Khal are quite popular for their aloo paranthas.

Twin Bugyal (40km) Bugyal in Uttarakhand’s local language means ‘high altitude meadow’. The trek to Dayara Bugyal called the Gidara Trek begins at Bhatwari village, 32km from Uttarkashi on the road to Gangotri. Sitting at an altitude of 3,500m, the rolling green meadows at Dayara Bugyal are surrounded by Himalayan peaks. Visitors can set up camp here. Basic skiing facilities are also available during the winter. Nelong Valley (116km) Having opened as recently as 2015, the Nelong Valley, which falls within the confines of Gangotri National Park, is still relatively unknown and thus receives very few visitors. Its stunning cold-desert like topography bears a striking resemblance to Ladakh’s landscape and is home to endangered species such as snow leopard, musk deer and Himalayan blue sheep. All travellers must acquire a permit from the sub-divisional magistrate to visit the area and must be physically fit enough to undertake the journey. Before the 1962 War the Indo-China trade route passed through this region and one can still spot remnants from that bygone era such as an old hand-made wooden bridge that was used by locals. ■

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UTTARKASHI

Devprayag

Chamoli

Chilianaula

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven

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The Kartik Swamy Temple lies an easy hike away from Pokhri

bharat aggarwal

POKHRI ON A ROAD LESS TRAVELLED ■ Ahtushi

Deshpande

f you’ve begun to give up on the hope of finding another place that is not overrun by invading hordes of big-city-weary vacationers, we have news. About a 10-hour drive from Delhi, this little unspoilt oasis in southwest Chamoli District goes by the name of Pokhri. Off the main highway from Rudraprayag, the road to Pokhri is a scenic delight. A series of hairpin bends quickly lift you high above the Alaknanda Valley. You are now cruising on a high ridge, curtained by a deep forest, pines giving way to oak and 88 Uttarakhand

rhododendrons along the way. As you snake your way up, you’ll catch brief glimpses of the high Himalaya through the clearings in the forest. Way, way below, the Alaknanda, winding along the floor of the valley, looks like a shimmering jewel in another land. On the way to Pokhri, still about a kilometre short of it, you’ll come upon a little idyllic village called Guniyala. There are some beautiful walks around this place. By night, a star-bedecked sky looks onto the peaceful village; by day, the village folk go about their daily chores with smiling faces.

POKHRI

Walks around Pokhri The Little Red House will send a guide to accompany you along these easy hikes in the vicinity. But it’s easy to find your way around. Just ask the next villager. The 3-km climb to the hilltop Kartik Swamy Temple starts at Kanakchowry, a small ridgetop pass, 14km from Guniyala back on the Rudraprayag Road. A gate announces the start of the walk from the middle of the small market place. Going west along a ridge thickly forested with rhododendrons and oaks, this is a well-laid-out trail, with resting shelters at good vantage points along the route. The first of these shelters comes up about half an hour into the walk, at a picturesque vantage point. To the right, you’ll see Chaukhamba, among other snowy peaks. Another 15 minutes into your walk, you’ll have reached the next halt at a point where the ridge begins to curve due north. The dharamshalas here are used by local pilgrims during the 11-day Kartik Fair in June. The small Narvada Kund and a Bhairon Devta Temple announce the final stretch of the walk. Soon you’re up on a very narrow ridge of a long spur of the mountain, popularly known as Karoch Parvat. You’ll see a few flags flutter in the wind as the entrance to the temple comes into view. This beautiful white temple, with a bright yellow roof, houses an ancient statue of Kartik Swamy. Legend has it that Kartikeya, the son of Shiva and Parvati, came here in a huff when his mother granted the Raj Tilak to Ganesh.

Another easy 1-km walk starts right above Guniyala Village, and goes to the Dudhkam Devi Temple, past fields of wheat and mustard. Although the Chaukhamba and Kedarnath peaks are also visible along this walk, it is the views further east that are clearer. You can see Hathi (elephant), Ghodi (horse),

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

the information When to go March to November Tourist Office l GMVN Rahi Motel, Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel: 01334-228686, 226430 STD code 01364 Getting There Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (210km/ 7hrs). Taxi to Pokhri costs `5,000–7,500, depending on the season Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar (217km/ 7hrs). Taxi costs same as above Road Pokhri is 53km off NH34. From Delhi, follow NH34 and NH7 till Rudraprayag via Meerut, Roorkee, Haridwar, Devprayag and Srinagar. Drive till the confluence of the Alaknanda with the Mandakini at Rudraprayag, and cross the bridge. Take the right turn, after crossing the bridge, to Pokhri. Follow the winding hill road all the way via Belani, Saterakhal, Chopta, Kanakchowry and Mohankhal See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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Nanda Devi, Hanuman and other peaks of the inner sanctuary area of the Nanda Devi National Park. A dirt track goes up 3km from Pokhri to the lone colonial-era Nagnath-Pokhri College, situated in the middle of a dense forest. Established in 1901, the college now has a new compound, but the ruins of the old hostel building, complete with dilapidated fireplaces, have been left untouched. Get on the trail at the centre of the school building, which leads to the Nagnath Pokhri Krishna Temple. Further up is the forest bungalow and then the track veers west to yet another shrine – the Raj Rajeshwari, or Ghari Temple. Sample valley life on the walk to Chandnikhal. The walk starts from the left of Guniyala Village, going via Bangthal and Dunger villages, where the Parvati Temple is situated. You’ll walk past the same lush fields and villages, through rhododendron and oak forests, past mountain streams and fruit trees. Take a taxi back from Chandnikhal. Where To Stay And Eat

At Guniyala Khal stands an arch with the late Major Rawat’s statue on top. The first house in the village below, an unmistakable bright red, is The Little Red House (Cell: 07895031411, 09917012636; Tariff: `1,400), a rustic and cosy two-room homestay. Built as a holiday home by Tulsi Rawat and her late husband for occasional vacations in their 90 Uttarakhand

ancestral village, the homestay was opened in 2006. The simple beauty of this place is touching. The vast terrace in front of the house looks onto the village below through trees of malta, plum and lemon while the snow-capped sentries stand guard to the north. You can cook your own meals in the kitchen or share a meal with the family. Ask them for picnic lunches to take along for your walks. There is a caretaker, who will ensure that you have a pleasant stay. The homestay was closed for renovation at the time of research. The Birdsong Cottage (Cell: 09350848865; Tariff: ` 3,000; Cottage `4,500–9,000) is a rustic pine-wood lodge offering stunning views of the Himalayan peaks like Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba and Trishul. The homestay is equipped with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a dining tent and a lounge area. You can hire a room, or book the whole cottage if you’re travelling in a group of 6–8 persons. A caretaker is available to cook for you. A mix of rhododendrons, deodars, oak and pine trees surround the cottage. There are plenty of birds around the place and many wild animals like leopards, jungle cats and Himalayan deer. Guides can be arranged on prior request. This cottage is an ideal place for nature lovers, trekkers and birdwatchers alike. For more, see Pokhri Accommodation Listings on p299. 

Kumaon

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92 Uttarakhand

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94 Uttarakhand

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NAINITAL

Row boats with brightly coloured seats along the shore of Naini Lake

shubham mansingka

NAINITAL lake resort ■ Shubham

Mansingka & Richa

Pandey

estled in the Kumaon Hills at an altitude of 2,084 metres, pretty Nainital is a popular hill station where people go to escape from the oppressive heat of the North Indian Plains. According to Hindu mythology, Naini Lake, located at the heart of Nainital, is one of the shaktipeeths where Sati’s eyes (or nain) fell. The lake came to be called ‘Nain-tal’ (lake of the eye), and that’s how the town got its name. A temple dedicated to the goddess Shakti called the Naini

Mata Temple stands on the northern shore of the lake. This beautiful town was founded in 1841 by the British. It soon became a favoured health resort and, finally, the summer residence of the governor of the United Provinces of the British Raj. The older parts of Nainital retain a smattering of colonial vestiges including schools and colleges, churches, and bungalows. In 1880, this quaint town was rocked by a massive landslide that flattened most of the land here and buried 150 people. Today, that area is called maidan or the flats. Uttarakhand 95

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Between April and July, tourists pack the promenade that links Mallital with Tallital called Mall Road. The laidback charm of Nainital is almost lost during this time. However, it is still possible to find a quiet spot in the enchanting surroundings. You can go for lovely walks in the forested areas, which are filled with oak, pine and deodar trees. In March and April, the hills here are ablaze in a riot of colours, with blooming red rhododendrons and wildflowers of various bright hues. During the monsoon, a veillike mist drapes Nainital while the clouds play hide and seek with the sun – a truly unforgettable experience. Stroll around the lake, try boating, shop at the Mall, take in the views, or go for walks around the

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go All year round, except the monsoon months Tourist offices ● KMVN Central Reservations Centre C/o Parvat Tours, Tallital Nainital Tel: 05942-231436, 236956 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 23319835 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05942

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sylvan trails and you will fall in love with this magical town. Things to see and do

Naini Lake The blue-green Naini Lake is the main centre of attraction in Nainital. A level area near the temple, the flats, is where people gather every evening for recreational activities. There is also a bandstand, a fountain, a skating rink, the Naini Stadium, and several bazaars, including the Tibetan Market. Boating and yachting are the most popular activities at the lake. A rowboat ride costs `210. You can also hire a small yacht (`500 for 2 pax/ hr) from the Nainital Boat Club (Tel: 05942-235318) at The Flats. You will get a boatman, but there is also a choice of pedal boats if you want to explore the lake on your own. u Boating timings 10.00am–4.00pm The Boat House Club on the lake, dating back to the mid 19th century, is a must-see. For lovely views, head to the lake-facing tables at its woodenfloored bar. A temporary membership providing access to the bar and the billiards room is available.

Snow View This viewpoint (2,250m), atop Sherka-Danda Hill, boasts of spectacular views of the Himalayas, especially from October to March, when the peaks are covered with snow. On a clear day, it is possible to see the Nanda Devi peak from here. To reach this viewpoint, you can hike for 2km along an uphill path, or

NAINITAL Photos: bharat aggarwal

Left: A busy promenade by the lake; Right: Decorative items made from pinecones

ride a pony. Alternatively, there is a ropeway that connects Mall Road to Snow View Point. u Ropeway Ticket `200 (return) Timings 9.00am–5.00pm Tip You need to return within the hour for the ropeway round trip.

Nainital High Altitude Zoo The Nainital Zoo is a steep 1.5-km climb from the southern end of the Mall Road. This zoological park is home to a variety of animals and birds. Amongst the popular residents here are wolves, Himalayan black bears, tigers, leopards and colourful Himalayan pheasants. u Entry `50 Timings 10.00am– 4.30pm Closed Mondays

Eco Cave Gardens This well-laid out 08650002516) has

park (Cell: a musical

fountain, which is operational only in May and June. The six caves here may not challenge a spelunker, but are still good enough for just scrambling through. u Entry Adults `25; Children `10 Timings 9.30am–5.30pm Tip The caves should not to be attempted by claustrophobic people and children.

Naina Peak For adventure enthusiasts, hiking to Naina or China Peak, which boasts of gorgeous views of the Naini Lake and surrounding snowclad moun-tains, is a great option. The urban legend is that you can see the Great Wall of China from this peak. It is Nainital’s highest point, and you will have to hike for 4–5km to reach the top, or hire a pony. Uttarakhand 97

Kumaon

St. John in the Wilderness Church

One of the oldest buildings in Nainital, this church is tucked away amongst tall deodar trees on the northern end of the town. The regal building also houses a brass memorial dedicated to the victims of the landslide of 1880. There is also a cemetery located nearby.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (71km/ 2hrs), connected to Delhi. Taxi to Nainital costs `1,500–2,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (33km/ 1hr), connected to Delhi by the Ranikhet Express, the Uttarakhand Sampark Kranti Express and the Anand Vihar-Kathgodam Shatabdi, and to Howrah and Lucknow by the daily Bagh Express. The Dehradun-Kathgodam Express is a daily connection between Kumaon and Garhwal. Taxi to Nainital costs `600–800; shared taxi `150–200 Road From Delhi, follow NH24 and NH9 to Rampur via Hapur Bypass, Gajraula, Joya and Moradabad Bypass. At Rampur Railway Station, turn left onto NH109 to Nainital via Rudrapur, Tanda More, Haldwani, Kathgodam, Ranibagh and Jeolikot Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22141611) has a daily direct overnight bus service from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar to Nainital and several services to Haldwani and Kathgodam. AC bus fare is `500–700 See Route Planner on p94.

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Tiffin Top (Dorothy’s Seat)

Located on the Ayarpatta Hill at 2,300m, the terraced Tiffin Top commands fantastic views of the Himalayas. The stone picnic seat here was built by the husband and admirers of English artist Dorothy Kelley after she died in a plane crash. Jim Corbett’s old home, Gurney House, is also located at Ayarpatta Hill. Also on Ayarpatta Hill is the former house of Jim Corbett – the well-known hunter, conservationist, writer and naturalist. The house, named after Corbett’s father, is now a museum of Corbett memorabilia. Tip Gurney House being a private property, entry is at the discretion of the owner.

Raj Bhawan (Governor’s House) The Raj Bhavan, with gardens spread over 220 acres overflowing with deodars, was the summer residence of the governor of the United Provinces. Now the official residence of the Governor of Uttarakhand, it is amongst the few Raj Bhavans in India that are open to the public. The façade of the two-storeyed building (with 113 rooms) replicates the shape of the British crown. The quaint fireplace in the lobby and the two conservatories called ‘glass houses’ (one each for summer and winter) are worth seeing, as are the weapons of the infamous Sultana Daku. There is also an 18-hole golf course (Tel: 05942-235001). u Entry `50 Timings 11.00am– 4.00pm Golf course entry Indians `250–300; Foreigners `800 Golf kit charge extra

NAINITAL sanjoy ghosh

Raj Bhavan Shopping

Look out for the candles Nainital is justly famous for. You’ll find plenty of them in Gupta Departmental Store in Bara Bazaar. At the several shops lining the edge of the promenade and the Mall, you can browse for shawls, readymade and local handicrafts. The Tibetan Market has an assortment of woollies, clothes, candles and other bric-a-brac. Check out the Panchachuli Store for hand-woven stoles and shawls, and the Fruitage outlet for rhododendron squash, fresh fruit jams, chutneys, etc. WHERE TO STAY

Abbotsford (Tel: 05942-236188; Tariff: `4,000–8,000) is a beautiful,

skilfully restored 130-year-old cottage, which serves as a lovely home-stay while offering the opulence of an upscale hotel. Vikram Vintage Inn (Tel: 236177; `8,260–26,550, with two meals) is an old converted palace located near the High Court. Palace Belvedere (Tel: 237434; Tariff: `4,500–8,750), built in 1897, was the erstwhile summer palace of the Rajas of Awagarh. Of the three KMVN guesthouses in Nainital, the best one is KMVN Snow View (Tel: 238570; Tariff: `2,100–3,800, with two meals), formerly the British Governor’s residence, which is located atop the ropeway. Dynasty Resort (Tel: 240258/ 120; Tariff: `3,000–8,800) has a lovely location by the Khurpatal. Uttarakhand 99

Kumaon Courtesy jungle lore birding lodge

Around Nainital

Hanuman Garhi (3km) A revered temple dedicated to the monkey god, Hanuman Garhi is a leisurely 30-minute walk from Nainital town. Reach here during sunset to enjoy spectacular views.

Colourful birds seen at Pangot

For more, see Nainital Accommodation Listings on pp312–13. WHERE TO EAT

Along The Mall, Embassy serves decent sizzlers at a reasonable price. Try Machan for tandoori. Nanak serves snacks, milkshakes, sandwiches and sundaes. Sakley’s is an old pastry shop on the Mall. Ashoka offers a vegetarian spread and specialises in Gujarati thalis. Purohit also has a Gujarati menu. Visit Shiva Restaurant in Bara Bazaar for vegetarian north Indian food. The Tibetan Market stalls offer freshly prepared vegetarian food.

Astronomical Observatory (9km) The Aryabhatta Research Institute of Observational Sciences (Tel: 233727, 233734-35) is located on Manora Peak. The observatory has facilities for viewing celestial bodies through its high-powered telescopes – a stargazer’s delight! Call the institute to fix your visit (7.00pm–9.00pm). The twinkling lights of Nainital around the lake can also be enjoyed from this vantage point. The institute was established in 1955, and is a major centre for astrophysical research. Pangot (17km) A small village around 30 minutes from Nainital, Pangot is a birder’s paradise. The road from Nainital to Pangot, Kilbury Road, passes through the forested area of China Peak. Many species of Himalayan birds can be spotted in Pangot and the wooded ridges around Kilbury such as the lammergeier, Himalayan griffon, rufous-bellied woodpecker, colourful pheasants and thrushes. ■

100 Uttarakhand

Dwarahat

Joshimath

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Lansdowne

Tehri Lake

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

NAUKUCHIATAL NINE CORNERS OF PARADISE ■ priyasree

bora & SHUBHAM MANSINGKA

lmost as soon as you leave the plains at Kathgodam, the sudden cool air that breezes in through your car window acts as a precursor to the beauty that awaits you in the midst of the mountains. Within a short while of the first sighting of the hills, you arrive in Naukuchiatal; a gigantic statue of Lord Hanuman welcomes you to town, which is home to one of the loveliest lakes in Kumaon’s Nainital district. Local legend has it that anyone who can sight the nine 104 Uttarakhand

corners of ‘Nau-kuchia-tal’ all at once will find their way to heaven. It is believed that the lake was created by Lord Brahma and a parikrama (circumambulation) around the lake is considered scared. Given the sheer size of the tal, the chances of anyone accomplishing this is very little but it is nonetheless worth trying during one of your walks over the hills that cradle the lake. In any case, this azure blue lake, set amidst gorgeous oak and pine forests, makes it easy to believe that you have found heaven on earth. A glimpse of the full moon reflected in the shimmering tal is indeed a celestial sight.

NAUKUCHIATAL

Boat ride approx `250–300 for a 30 minute ride in a boat or shikara Tip Make sure to ask for lifejackets The Naukuchiatal Escape Festival of Art and Music, a creative retreat, is now a regular summer feature here (check W facebook.com/ escapefestival for details). u

tribhuvan tiwari

The Tal Walk

View of Naukuchiatal from a vantage point

The 3.5-km walk around the lake’s periphery takes in all of Naukuchiatal, winding past the jetty, resorts, pretty country cottages and a small temple. In parts the trail is quiet, with secluded spots in which you’ll hear varied birds including kingfishers and swallows.

Mata Vaishno Devi Temple The huge statue of Lord Hanuman that welcomes one to Naukuchiatal is part of the the Mata Vaishno Devi Temple. There’s always a line of

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Naukuchiatal has quite a few resorts and is used to tourists, but it can fool you into believing you’re the only one here, as you wander the paths around the lake, with only your thoughts for company. Discover the tal by boat, or even by gliding through the nippy mountain air.

The Lake Boating in Naukuchiatal is magical, particularly if you choose to do so in the early morning or afternoon. You could even break journey, rest your boat by the edge of the lake and have a picnic by the waters.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go March–August, October–November Tourist offices ● KMVN Tourist Rest House Naukuchiatal. Cell: 08650002524 ● KMVN Tourist Information Office Oak Park House, Mallital, Nainital Tel: 05942-236356 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05942

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Kumaon

devotees and tourists outside, waiting for their chance to enter the temple through an artificial tunnel.

Adventure Activities The resorts here offer a variety of adventure activities. The Lake Village has specialists for zorbing, kayaking, aquaball, paintball, rock climbing, rappelling and a slew of rope activities. Club Mahindra’s Dancing Waters Resort also arranges activities like trekking, rappelling and rock climbing.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (64km/ 2hrs), connected to Delhi. Taxi costs `1,700–2,500. Shared taxi costs `50– 100 per seat Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (26km/ 45mins), connected to Delhi. Taxis charge `600–1,000. Shared taxi costs `50–100 per seat Road From Delhi, follow the NH24, NH9 and NH109 to Kathgodam. About 5km ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right and follow the Bhowali-Bhimtal Road to Bhimtal. Skirt Bhimtal Lake, cross the bridge and at the junction, turn right for Naukuchiatal, 4km away along the road before Bhimtal bazaar Bus Uttarakhand Roadways runs one bus from Haldwani to Naukuchiatal at 5.00pm everyday. Many buses leave for Naukuchiatal from Almora and Haldwani See Route Planner on pp92–93.

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One of the main attractions here is paragliding. Pandeygaon is a hilltop meadow that serves as a launching pad. Get there early in the morning, as paragliding flights are offered on a first-come-first-served basis. You should know that there have been accidents while paragliding at Naukuchiatal due to the inexperience of some of the operators. Although help is at hand, be sure you have the heart for this – the idea of being in the air is thrilling alright, but some lose their nerve when their feet are suddenly swept off the ground. Remember that if you paraglide here, it is at your own risk. Tip KMVN recommends HAI Fly here (Cell: 09412906780, 098975 38668; W haifly.co). WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Naukuchiatal offers a number of stay options. At The Lake Resort (Tel: 05942-247183-84, Cell: 084499 47183/ 84; Tariff: `4,800–5,800, tents `2,400), all the rooms have excellent views of the lake. The resort organises treks, boating, horse riding and paragliding on request. The Lake Village (Cell: 09410305386, 094581 45498; Tariff: `6,000–20,000) offers five-star cottages. KMVN’s Lakeside TRH (Tel: 247138, Cell: 08650002524; Tariff: `2,350–3,900) is situated right next to the lake. Parichay Resort (Tel: 248201, Cell: 08650002524) also run by KMVN, is currently being renovated. Club Mahindra’s Dancing Waters Resort (Tel: 247506; Tariff: `8,000) has studio apartments. Déjà Vu (Cell: 09810064322; Tariff:

NAUKUCHIATAL shubham mansingka

Boating on Bhimtal Lake continues to be popular with visitors

`4,000) is a cosy cottage overlooking the lake. Emerald Trail (Cell: 09833949954; Tariff: `5,500) is a great homestay, towards Bhimtal. The roadside stalls and restaurants offer parathas, pakoras and rajma-chawal. For good vegetarian food, head to Balaji Kitchen, opposite Hanuman Temple. Aipan Restaurant serves delicious Kumaoni meals. Café Orchid at The Lake Resort serves good Chinese, Continental and Mughlai fare.

For more, see Naukuchiatal Accommodation Listings on p314. AROUND NAUKUCHIATAL

Bhimtal (4km) Once home to one of the largest lakes in Kumaon, today Bhimtal’s

unchecked development is forcing the waters to recede every year. However, the paths through the hills around can still offer a peaceful commune with nature and some lovely views. A stroll along the far bank of the Bhimtal Lake is quite a soothing experience. You can also try your hand at angling here (permits `50 per day). At the centre of the lake is a small island with an overgrowth of trees. The island was once home to a lovely restaurant, which has now shut down. There is a small aquarium in its place now. The Bhimeshwar Mahadev Temple (Timings: 5.00am–7.00pm), adjacent to it, dominates the landscape here. The Kumaon Umang Mahila Samiti outlet on the Ranibagh Road offers a wide range of woollens at great prices; Uttarakhand 107

Kumaon shubham mansingka

The charming church in Sattal is a great place for quiet contemplation

you can also find delectable homemade pickles here. The Ghoda Khal temple, which is about 3km from the town is one of the most revered temples in Kumaon. There is also the privately owned Folk Culture Museum (Timings: 10.00am–5.00pm; Cell: 09412094613; W museumhimani. com) at Mehragaon on the Bhowali Road, which showcases a collection of rock art. You can go boating on Bhimtal too. Charmingly understated, the luxurious Fishermen’s Lodge (Cell: 09411107854, 07088538217; Tariff: `7,400) is a wonderful base for exploring this area. Cottage-in-Hills (Cell: 09650612111; Tariff: `6,500) is a lovely two-bedroom cottage. Monolith Resorts (Tel: 05942247415, 247582, Cell: 087558 99999; 108 Uttarakhand

Tariff: `5,600–15,000) is a castle-like watchtower. Aamod Resort (Tel: 248413/ 15, Cell: 09213022540, 09212114441; Tariff: `4,000–8,000), Country Inn (Tel: 247120-22; Tariff: `8,000–12,000, with two meals) and The Pine Crest (Tel: 247430, 248144, Cell: 09897084604; Tariff: `6,500) are also good stay options. Sattal (52km) The seven interconnected lakes that make Sattal (literally, seven lakes) are named after mythological gods and heroes. While the isolated Garur Tal (or Panna Tal) is said to be haunted, Nal Damayanti has shoals of silver carp. Bharat Tal lies a short distance away; Ram Tal, Sita Tal and Lakshman Tal combine to make the actual Sattal lake. Legend has it that

NAUKUCHIATAL

the trio from the epic Ramayana had lived here for a spell during their exile from Ayodhya, hence the names of three of the lakes. There are two ways of getting the full flavour of Sattal – either by carrying your own tents and equipment and setting up camp by the lakes, or by staying at one of the organised campsites. If you have your boots on, then the only way to go is up the hills, climb rocks or just trek along the trails. Accompanied by experienced mountaineers, rappelling and rivercrossing are other heady choices. These, along with mountain-biking and flying fox are some of the best adventure activities here. Climb up Suicide Rock under the watchful eyes of an instructor. Burma bridges are two ropes a few metres apart that traverse a gorge or river, once used in World War II to transfer soldiers and supplies. They are now used for the entertainment of adventure-seekers. You walk on the lower rope, holding on to another one above you, while crossing a deep gorge. Another easy thrill is the Tarzan Swing, a long rope that you use to swing over a ditch. Cool off later with a swim. Go rafting or kayaking on the lakes. If you do not have your own equipment, the camps here will arrange it for you. There are also

plenty of boatmen to take you around the lakes at a moderate price (`250–300 per hour). Looking down from the tree-lined bend in the winding road to Sattal, you can spot a tiny church in deep verdure right on the banks of a tiny nearby tal. The church is part of the Sattal Mission Estate and Methodist Ashram and is at a 30-minute trek away from the lake. The church was established by preacher and missionary Stanley Jones. Try the KMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 05942-247047, Cell: 086500 02530; Tariff: `1,750–2,600, with two meals). But staying in camps is the best thing to do here. Just getting to the Getaway Jungle Camp (Cell: 09810440150; Tariff: `5,000, with meals) is an adventure in itself. Wildrift Adventures’ Camp Suryagaon (Delhi tel: 011-29531036, Cell: 09810808448; Tariff: `2,500 per person, with meals), earlier Saattal Camp, at Suryagaon on the hill just above Sattal about a kilometre from the lakes, offers a panoramic view of the lakes. V Resorts (Cell: 08130777222; Tariff: `6,000–7,500, with meals) is perched on a hill over the lake. Right on the lake, yet shielded from the tourists, the YMCA Camp (Cell: 097592 99198, Tariff: `1,200–2,500) offers a wonderful location. n

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Mukteshwar has several great viewpoints

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Mukteshwar in the name of shiva â&#x2013; Shubham

Mansingka & Abhilash Gaur

he British colonialists can be credited with turning Mukteshwar in to the holiday destination it is today. Around 120 years ago, they bought over 3,000 acres of land here, right under the Shiva Temple that lends the place its name. They then shifted the Imperial Bacteriological Laboratory from Pune to this spot. The immense natural beauty of the place may have influenced the decision in no small measure. Cold as any place 7,500ft above sea level, green as any 110 Uttarakhand

place showered with 1,450mm rainfall, quiet as any road with more bends than people, and bearing the stamp of approval of no less a man than Jim Corbett, Mukteshwar is guaranteed to delight its visitors. Even after a century, Mukteshwar is all about the old Imperial Bacteriological Laboratory, renamed Indian Veterinary Research Institute after Independence. The town is surrounded by beautiful and dense reserve forests of deodar, pine, oak and rhododendron. There is also a rich variety of birds and wildlife in this region. While walking through the jungle,

Mukteshwar

you may spot the treepie, red-billed blue magpie, paradise flycatcher, laughing thrush, Himalayan woodpecker and rosefinch, amongst other avian residents. Leopards, Himalayan black bears, civets, deer, wild boars can also be found in the forests around Mukteshwar. Things to see and do

Mukteshwar Temple The 350-year-old Mukteshwar Temple can be accessed by a winding path of stone steps. According to Hindu mythology, the place where this humble structure stands today is the exact spot where Lord Shiva killed a demon and granted him salvation or mukti. Inside the sanctum sanctorum are idols of Brahma, Vishnu, Parvati, Ganesha, Nandi and Hanuman that surround the Shivalinga, which is made of white marble. The temple is located amidst serene surroundings. There’s also a Ram Temple nearby, which has striking interiors filled with temple bells.

Chauthi Jaali Mukteshwar’s highest point, Chauthi Jaali, is located ahead of the Mukteshwar Temple. Apart from the main outcrop, the Jaali comprises a series of rocky protuberances, and it requires some nerve to climb up and peek over any of them. However, your effort will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Kumaon valley, especially during sunset. Legend has it that these outcrops used to be an entire mountain, which was destroyed

when there was a battle between a goddess and demons.

PWD Inspection Bungalow This quaint, well-kept bungalow is an old building where Jim Corbett stayed while hunting a man-eating tigress in 1929, but the best part is the view from its lawn. The well tended garden has a stone pedestal bearing a plaque etched with a mountainscape. Seven peaks are marked out: the very same that rise above the horizon in the distance. From left to right, these are Nanda Ghunti (20,700ft), Trishul (22,360ft), Trishul East (23,320ft), Nanda Devi (25,645ft), Nanda Devi East (24,391ft), Nanda Kot (22,510ft) and Panchachuli (22,650ft). These mountains, and also Api and Napha across the border in

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Mukteshwar is beautiful round the year. Avoid the monsoon Tourist offices ● KMVN Tourist Rest House, Mukteshwar Tel: 05942-286263 Cell: 08650002528 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 23319835 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05942

Uttarakhand 111

Kumaon prashant panjiar

Blooms offer a colourful welcome to the holidayer in Mukteshwar

Nepal, are visible only on clear days, but the sprawl of Almora remains in view at all times. The view of the town is most beautiful at night, its lights appearing like a swarm of fireflies descending on the valley.

Methodist Church Just before you hit Chowfulli (the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only roundel) on the way up, a black metal strip on a tree points out the way to the Methodist Church. The narrow path has been cut in rock and polished smooth over the years by passing hooves and feet, so watch your step. Built almost a hundred years ago, the beautiful red and white structure is homely, and its walls, stained glass windows and tin roof are well preserved. The steeple has a bell 112 Uttarakhand

presented by a certain Barbara, in memory of her parents, on Christmas Day. The church is open only on Sundays from 3.00â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4.00pm.

Bhalu Gaad Waterfall Located deep in the jungle, the lovely Bhalu Gaad Waterfall can be accessed by a moderately challenging 2-km trek. Remember to pack your own lunch as there are no eateries nearby. To experience the full splendour of the falls and the surrounding verdure, visit the place just after the monsoon. Remember to carry binoculars. Tip The trek to the waterfall is only meant for the sure-footed. Children, older people and those with physical weaknesses or ailments are advised to give this spot a miss.

Mukteshwar

Shopping

Mukteshwar is the perfect destination to pick up locally-made products such as apricot oil, rhododendron juice, jams, jellies and shawls. The locals also sell souvenirs made with pine cones. Where to Stay and Eat

Mukteshwar has a KMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 05942-286263; Tariff: `1,900–5,100) at the end of Mukteshwar Mahadev Road offering great views of the mountains. Just outside town is the Somerset Lodge (Tel: 286165; Tariff: `2,500 per person, with meals), an old farmstead with spacious rooms and suites. Camp Purple (Delhi Tel: 011-29531036, Cell: 09810808448; Tariff: `2,500 per person, with meals), located in an orchard, offers adventure sports, rappelling, rockclimbing and trekking. Nearby is Oak Chalet (Cell: 09627771507, 09837787501; Tariff: `2,500 per person, with all meals), with four rooms and three tents. It organises adventure activities frequently. Red Retreat Mukteshwar (Tel: 286299, Cell: 09412007857; Tariff: `2,500–4,000) is a family cottage with double rooms. Mystic Mukteshwar (Tel: 286539; Tariff: `4,500–5,000,

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (111km/ 3hr), connected to Delhi by Air India. Taxi to Mukteshwar costs `2,000–2,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (73km/ 2hr). A taxi to Mukteshwar costs `1,500 one way Road From Delhi, follow the route till Kathgodam via NH24, NH9 and NH109. Five kilometres ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right (at the sign for the HMT factory) and follow the BhowaliBhimtal Road to Bhowali. From Bhowali, get onto the Ramgarh Road to Mukteshwar. Another route from Bhimtal is to follow the Bhowali Road till Khutani Bend, and then take the full U-turn right up the Padampuri Road to Mukteshwar, via Dhanachuli Bend and Bhatelia See Route Planner on pp92–93.

with meals) is a homestay in Sargakhet, with six rooms, a kitchen, library, and games. Krishna Orchard Resort (Tel: 286292, Tariff: `2,800– 7,450) has 27 rooms, a restaurant and games such as billiards. For more, see Mukteshwar Accommodation Listings on pp311–12. ■

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Verdant hillsides, fruit orchards and quaint houses make Ramgarh the perfect destination

Ramgarh poet’s refuge ■ Shubham

Mansingka

opularly known as the ‘Fruit Bowl of Kumaon’, a visit to Ramgarh means walking through endless orchards of peach, apricot, plum, pear and apple. And what’s more? The hill station is quietly nestled in the Kumaoni mountain range, away from touristy eyes and boasts magnificent views of the Himalayas, making it a perfect destination for a peaceful holiday. The joy of eating fruits straight from the trees here will last from summer through the rainy season and autumn, depending on the 114 Uttarakhand

ripening of various kinds of fruit. Apart from these, there are also malta and lime trees and gooseberry shrubs to that grow here. You can buy these fruits for very minimal prices from any orchard, by inquiring with the locals. On clear days, Ramgarh offers unobstructed views of the great Himalayan peaks of Nanda Devi, Trishul and Panchachuli. The hills around Ramgarh are a paradise for birdwatchers – parakeets, bulbuls, mynahs, jungle fowl, pheasants, and whistling thrushes are some of the avian species that can be spotted here.

Ramgarh

Ramgarh is a place to relax and find pleasure in doing nothing. For the active traveller, there are numerous options for treks and jungle walks, birdwatching, amongst other outdoor activities. Ramgarh was once a cantonment town of the British and there are pretty bungalows with colonial architecture spread across the place. Things to see and do

that was once Rabindranath Tagore’s home. He initially arrived here with his daughter who was recuperating from tuberculosis and had been prescribed clean and pure mountain air. But Tagore fell so deeply in love with Ramgarh that he returned here several times over the next few decades. Sadly, nothing remains of the cottage except some ruins, but the trek up here offers great views of the Himalayas.

Nature Walks

Sri Aurobindo Ashram

Walking through Ramgarh means being surrounded by fruit orchards. Apart from that, the town is also a perfect place to experience Kumaoni culture. A walk from Malla Ramgarh (upper) to Talla Ramgarh (lower) through the villages in between will enable you to see traditional Kumaoni homes. These are twostoreyed structures with livestock on the mezzanine floor and people living on the first level. There is a small open space in front of every house. The houses are made of mud and stone, with slate roofs. The doors and windows of the houses are elaborately carved in the likhai craft form (local art of Kumaon).

Located at Talla Ramgarh, Sri Aurobindo Ashram comprises of two ashrams – Madhuban and Mountain Paradise – located in the midst of pine and oak trees. These ashrams make for great meditation spots. Sri Aurobindo was a big advocate of selfgrowth through yoga and internal living. Spending some time in the peaceful environs of the ashram is recommended to any city dweller looking for some inner peace.

Tagore Top Ramgarh’s quiet beauty was an inspiration to Rabindranath Tagore, who penned down a part of one of his most popular works Gitanjali, sitting at a hilltop cottage here. He made repeated visits to the cottage from 1903 to 1937. A short trek from Malla Ramgarh leads you to the ruins of the cottage

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go All year round, but best experienced in spring and autumn Tourist Office ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 41519366 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05942

Uttarakhand 115

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Mahadevi Verma Museum

Mahadevi Verma was a well known Hindi poet, activist and freedom fighter who purchased a house in Ramgarh, so she could write here. She received the country’s third highest civilian honour, Padma Bhushan, in 1956. The Mahadevi Verma Museum is her house that has been converted into a library of her works. where to stay and eat

Ramgarh has quite a few good hotels, but it’s best offerings are the

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (87km/ 2hrs), connected to Delhi. Taxi to Ramgarh costs `1,700–2,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (47km/ 1.5hrs). A taxi to Ramgarh costs `1,700–2,000 one way Road If driving up from Delhi, follow the route till Kathgodam via NH24, NH9 and NH109. Five kilometres ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right at the sign for the HMT factory and follow the Bhowali-Bhimtal Road to Bhowali via Bhimtal. At Bhimtal, skirt the lake and at the junction, turn left to Bhowali, 11km away. Before reaching the main Bhowali market, take the right turn just before the cricket ground onto the Ramgarh Road See Route Planner on pp92–93.

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many weekend villas that have been refitted and thrown open to guests. Among the nicest of the private villas is Soulitude in the Himalayas (Cell: 09999330379; Tariff: `12,000– 15,500), a beautiful property in Gagar with 10 luxury rooms, orchards, gardens and decks from which to enjoy stupendous views of the Himalayan peaks. Meals are made from fresh herbs and organic vegetables. The Neemrana group offers six lovely cottages, The Ramgarh Bungalows (Tel: 05942281156/ 37; Tariff: `3,600–10,000), each having an old-world charm and offering courteous service. Good, home-style food is served here. Kumaon Roop Resort (Cell: 09411378379; Tariff: `2,600–3,000) is set in a fruit orchard at Gagar. Opt for the log huts. KMVN’s Hill View (Tel: 281155; Tariff: `1,200–3,500) has nine rooms on the main road. There are several dhabas in the market which serve satisfactory food. The hotels all have restaurants and serve decent food. For more, see Ramgarh Accommodation Listings on pp314–15. Around Ramgarh

Gagar (14km) Located at an altitude of 2,100m, Gagar is an idyllic hamlet blessed with majestic 180 degree views of the Kumaon Himalayas. There are a few short uphill climbs from Gagar to temples located on the adjacent ridge. These temples provide equally great views of the mountains. ■

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven

Kedarnath UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Haridwar

Golu Devta Temple

Kumaon

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

118 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

Ranikhet

The verdant hills of Ranikhet are perfect for a rejuvenating holiday

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Ranikhet walkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise â&#x2013;

shubham mansingka

olling hills, a thick forest cover and unobstructed views of the greater Himalayas make Ranikhet one of the most beautiful hill stations in Uttarakhand. Located in the Almora district of the Kumaon region, this hill town is a predominantly cantonment area established by the British in 1869. Lord Mayo, the then Viceroy of India was so enchanted by the beauty of Ranikhet that he contemplated shifting the army headquarters here from Shimla. A walk around Ranikhet means seeing quaint little British

estates set amidst green lawns and visiting several churches built during the Colonial Era, all still in their original glory. The town was under the rule of Nepalis for a brief period of time, before the British annexed it in 1816. The first battalion of the Naga Regiment was raised here in 1970. Today, Ranikhet is home to the Kumaon Regiment of the Indian Army. Legend

According to legend, Kumaoni queen Rani Padmini had been so Uttarakhand 119

Kumaon

enchanted with the green hills and mountains in Ranikhet that she requested her king to build her a palace here. The king obliged and built a grand palace in this region and dedicated it to her. When the queen started living here, the name ‘Ranikhet’ (Ranikhet literally translates to ‘queen’s field’) originated. Although no trance of this palace remains today, beautiful meadows set against the backdrop of the Himalayas will make any visitor believe in the story. Orientation

Ranikhet’s Mall starts just above town, past the army grounds and stretches for 3km along the wooded crest of the ridge. The KRC Shawl and Tweed workshop here offers

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fast facts When to go A year-round destination, but March–April, when the snow is melting and spring is in the air, is the best time to visit. May–June is the peak tourist season in Kumaon. The best peak views are in winter but it’s very cold at this time Tourist Office ● KMVN Kalika Tourist Guest House Mall Road, Ranikhet Tel: 05966-220893; Cell: 08650002533 STD code 05966

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tourists the opportunity to watch local weavers in action. A classy variety of tweeds are sold in the shop next door. Things to see and do

Jhula Devi Temple Legend has it that Goddess Durga once sheltered the villagers from the threat of wild animals in the original Jhula Devi Temple, which was built about 700 years ago. However, the deity in the newer temple is still highly revered for her wish-granting powers. The biggest attraction in the temple is the umpteen bells that adorn its courtyard. Devotees who visit this temple offer bells to the goddess once their prayers and wishes are fulfilled. Dedicated to Goddess Durga, the present temple structure was constructed only in 1935, and is located about 7km from the centre of the town.

Baba Haida Khan Temple The famous century-old Baba Haida Khan Temple is a place to seek true spiritual bless. It is located at a distance of 6km from Ranikhet and feels cut away from the rest of the world. The path leading to the temple is lined with tall cedar tress on both sides and the temple premises offers majestic views of the valley against the backdrop of the mighty Himalayas.

Chaubatia Gardens The Chaubatia Gardens is one of the first Raj-era hill gardens of Ranikhet and has a large variety of plantations.

Ranikhet shutterstock

Tee off at the Upat Golf Course, one of the highest golf courses in India

It is located at a distance of 10km from the centre of the town and makes for a fine picnic spot for families to spend an entire day. It was once a British sanatorium, and now houses the Government Fruit Garden, which is said to grow more than 150 varieties of fruit including apricots, peaches and plums. Between the months of March and May, the place becomes a spectacular riot of colour with flowers blooming everywhere.

KRC Museum Kumaon Regimental Centre (KRC) Museum is maintained by the Kumaon and Naga regiments of the Indian Army. The museum was established in the 1970s. The threestoried building houses a collection

of memorabilia from the wars fought by the regiments. u Entry `20 Photography Not allowed

Upat Golf Course at Kalikaa Established in the 1920s, this ninehole golf course is the crown jewel of Ranikhet. It is located 5km outside the main town, near Kalikaa village and is one of the highest golf courses in India. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an army golf course, civilians can also access it by paying a nominal fee.

Mankameshwar This popular temple is just outside Ranikhet, near the golf course. It was built by the Kumaon Regiment and is mostly visited by the family members of the regiment. The Uttarakhand 121

Kumaon Jitender Gupta

Gurjar Dev Temple, one of 55 ancient temples in Dwarahat

temple is peaceful and a meditative air prevails around it. There’s also a Gurudwara close to the Mankameshwar Temple.

Tarikhet Tarikhet is a small hamlet located 8km from Ranikhet. It is known to be the place where Mahatma Gandhi resided during the Indian struggle for independence, in the 1920s. His cottage, known as ‘Gandhi Kutiya’, is a major tourist attraction here. WHERE TO STAY and eat

Chevron Rosemount (Tel: 05966221391; Tariff: `4,000–8,000, cottages `5,500–9,000, with two meals) has beautiful suites and rooms. Chevron also runs Ranikhet Club (Tel: 220611; Tariff: `4,000–5,500, with two meals), 122 Uttarakhand

which follows a strict formal wear regimen. Holm Farm Heritage (Cell: 09411113263/ 64; Tariff: `4,500– 6,900, cottage `10,200 with two meals) is a heritage homestead. West View Hotel (Tel: 220261, 221075; Tariff: `4,000–14,000 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals) is housed in a stone structure built in 1918. There’s also KMVN’s Kalika Tourist Lodge (Tel: 220893, Cell: 08650002533; Tariff: `1,250–2,400), a budget option on the the Mall. Woodsvilla Resort (Tel: 240374/ 81; Tariff: `7000–7,450, with two meals) in Majkhali arranges rock climbing and rappelling. Another lovely option is Windsor Lodge (Tel: 222098; Tariff: `7,500– 15,000 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals) at Kalika Estate in Dadgallia Village. Ranikhet’s main bazaar has restaurants that dish out fast food

Ranikhet

meals. Moon Hotel & Restaurant has north Indian fare. For a more elaborate meal, head to Chevron Rosemount or West View Hotel. Visitors can also eat at the Ranikhet Club, which houses a well-stocked bar. Note that the club follows a strict formal wear regimen. The Continental breakfast at Hotel Meghdoot is filling. Do try sugar covered bal mithai.

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getting there

Sitlakhet (31km) The mesmerizing sunrise view in Sitlakhet is the prime reason you should visit this little village. Perched atop a green ridge, the sun rising from the valley below and the slight nip in the air makes Sitlakhet nothing short of paradise. A short trek of 5–6km from Sitlakhet takes you to the famous Syahi Devi Temple.

Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar, connected to Delhi. Taxi to Ranikhet costs `2,500–3,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (81km/ 2.5hrs). A taxi to Ranikhet costs `1,500–2,000, approx Road From Delhi, follow the route till Kathgodam via NH24, NH9 and NH109. Moving along NH109, about 5km ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right at the sign for the HMT factory and follow the Bhowali-Bhimtal Road to Bhimtal. Skirt Bhimtal Lake and at the junction, turn left onto the Bhowali Road. At Bhowali Chowk, take the right turn which continues north to Khairna. At Khairna, take the left fork to Ranikhet, which is 24km away Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22141611) has regular bus services to Ranikhet from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar. See Route Planner on p118.

Dwarahat (34km) Dwarahat is a small village on the way to Kausani from Ranikhet. It was the erstwhile capital of Katyuri kings, and has many temples that are worth visiting around it – there are as many as 55 ancient temples

in Dwarahat. There’s also a river that originates from the nearby Dunagiri Mountain. The most famous of the ancient temples here are the Dunagiri temples at a distance of 20km from Dwarahat. ■

For more, see Ranikhet Accommodation Listings on pp315–16. Around Ranikhet

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Kumaon

Rolling hills as far as the eye can see, Almora

Bharat aggarwal

almora gateway to the high himalayas ■ Shubham

Mansingka & Rachna Subramanian

he second largest town in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, Almora lies 67km north of Nainital at an altitude of 1,646 metres. Almora was the capital of Kumaon’s Chand Dynasty in the mid-16th century. It was briefly occupied by the Gurkhas and later by the British. It is now known as the cultural capital of Kumaon as it is home to some of the region’s most important temples, and is thronged by visitors for its Dussehra celebrations and the Nanda Devi Mela. 124 Uttarakhand

Over the years, Almora has attracted a wide range of visitors – Rabindranath Tagore chose to spend a couple of months here in the quiet of the deep green cedar and pinecovered hills and wrote some of his sweetest verses; Vivekananda stopped by during his Himalayan sojourn and gave some famous discourses; Jawaharlal Nehru served a term in Almora Jail and left behind some accounts. It’s important to know before you start out that time has not stood still at Almora. Today, Almora is considered more a transit point en route to destinations like Binsar, Kausani and Sitlakhet; to

almora

pilgrimages like Katarmal and Jageshwar; and as a good trekking hub. It may appear like a haphazard hill town that is growing too quickly, but if you are prepared to look below the surface, Almora has some delightful surprises in store for you. Things to see and do

Nanda Devi Temple One of the most revered temples in all of Kumaon, the Nanda Devi Temple is dedicated to the eponymous goddess, who is supposed to be the destroyer of evil. The Nanda Devi peak, the second-highest peak in India, is considered the abode or the physical manifestation of Goddess Nanda on earth. The temple is located near the chowk area after the Mall, where there are a number of other Chand-era stone temples. The Nanda Devi Temple is built in the Nagara style of temple architecture, with an umbrella-like wooden roof. Every September, Almora comes alive as thousands flock to this temple for the Nanda Devi Mela, a riot of pageantry that lasts for a full five days. The mela has taken place here for more than 400 years.

Lala Bazaar Located just above the Mall, the 200-year-old Lala Bazaar is a pedestrian-only street, which is the heart of activity in Almora. Most shops here are wholesale, so the market gets very crowded during the day. When here, you must visit Lala Jogalal Sah’s shop. He is believ-

ed to be the inventor of the famous bal mithai and singodi sweets.

Govind Ballabh Pant Museum Located near the bus stand, the Govind Ballabh Pant Museum is a great stop to learn about Kumaoni tradition and culture. The museum has a rich collection of artefacts dating back to the time when the Katyuri and Chand dynasties were in power. The collection includes rare artwork, woodwork and sculptures. Also on display is the traditional Kumaoni art form called ‘aipen’, which features geometric designs, gods and goddesses, and natural objects.

Methodist Church Located on the northern end of the Mall, the stone structure of the Methodist Church was built in 1897.

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fast facts When to go All year round Tourist offices ● KMVN

Holiday Home, Mall Road, Almora Tel: 05962-230250; Cell: 08650002532 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road Tel: 011-23712246, 41519366 Email: kmvnnewdelhi@yahoo.com W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05962

Uttarakhand 125

Kumaon Courtesy uttarakhand tourism

Chitai Golu Devta Temple, dedicated to Lord Golu, an avtar of Shiva

It was constructed as a memorial to Reverend Budden, who had preached in the Kumaon Hills for 40 years.

Tagore Bhawan A warm colonial bungalow with a well-laid-out garden, the Tagore Bhawan is in the cantonment area. It is situated on a hilltop that affords some stunning views of the area. The nine poems of Shishu, Rabindranath’s collection for children, and his many landscapes of Almora are said to have been composed here.

Bright End Corner A scenic viewpoint situated about 2km from Almora, the Bright End Corner is worth a visit. It commands stupendous views of the Himalayas, especially during sunset. 126 Uttarakhand

WHERE TO STAY

AyurVAID Kalmatia (Cell: 096637 44665, 09886763039; Tariff: `23,000– 25,000, with meals), at Kalimat Estate offers cottages, safaris, guides, trekking and wellness treatments. It was closed for renovation at the time of research. Kasaar Jungle Resort (Tel: 251127/ 81; Tariff: `3,100–5,500), near the Kasar Devi Temple, has 27 rooms and a restaurant, and offers indoor games and nature guides. In town, KMVN’s Holiday Home (Tel: 05962-230250; Tariff: `2,436–4,442) with 18 rooms. Elphinstone Himalayan Resort (Cell: 099276 50346, 09468956801; Tariff: `3,500) in Jalna offers 12 rooms, a restau rant and horseriding. Decent midrange options include Hotel

Bugyal

Chamoli

Tehri Lake

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Simply Heaven UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (120km/ 4hrs). Taxi to Almora costs `1,800–2,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (87km/ 3.5hrs). A taxi to Almora costs `1,200 one-way, sharing taxi costs `200 Road From Delhi, follow the route till Kathgodam via NH24, NH9 and NH109. Five kilometres ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right (at the sign for the HMT factory) and follow BhowaliBhimtal Road to Bhimtal. At Bhimtal, skirt the lake, cross the bridge and at the junction, turn left towards Bhowali. From Bhowali market, head north to Khairna. At Khairna, take the right fork across the Kosi River to Almora via Sualbari Bus Ordinary buses leave for Almora from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar between 5.30am and 7.30pm. Opt for the Volvo to Haldwani. Taxi from Haldwani costs `1,200–2,500 See Route Planner on pp92–93.

Himsagar (Tel: 230 711, Cell: 09897701213; Tariff: `1,400–2,500) near the bus stand; Hotel Shikhar (Tel: 230253; Tariff: `950–5,000) on the Mall and Hotel Bhagwati Palace

(Tel: 230222; Tariff: `1,000–1,600), on Thapalia Road. The best budget option is KMVN’s TRH Danya (Tel: 271036; Tariff: `700–800) on the Main Road. For more, see Almora Accommodation Listings on pp304–05. WHERE TO EAT

Once you’ve tried hot samosas, khoya singhori, and bal mithai, you have kind of covered the specialties of the region. Shikhar Restaurant has decent chicken curry and rice. There are a few small dhabas on the Mall where you can expect to find chowmein, aloo tikki, puri-bhaji and the like. There is also the Madras Café, located just off the Mall for south Indian idlis and dosas. Around Almora

Lakhudiyar (18km) Barechinna village in Almora district is famous for its pre-historic rock shelters located on the banks of the Suyal River. Lakhudiyar literally means ‘one lakh caves’. The rock paintings inside these caves, which include depictions of animals, humans and dwellings, are believed to have been created during the Stone Age. ■

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Kausani

A spectacular view of snow-capped peaks from Kausani

shubham mansingka

Kausani kumaon’s darjeeling Monica Mody & Shubham Mansingka

■

tranquil hill station, the ridged Kausani (1890m) in Bageshwar district gives an uninterrupted view of a 365-km stretch of the Himalayas on a clear day! Scores and scores of wild flowers and ferns grow all over this region steeped in myth and folklore where, in the local imagination, the lines of the Katyuri kings mix freely with the Pandavas and the avatars of Goddess Durga. Come here to mountain-gaze – this is, after all, the ‘Switzerland of

India’ – to ramble in the pine woods, or visit places of mythological significance such as Baijnath and Bageshwar. Things to see and do

Kausani is virtually a village. Walking is a rewarding way to cover the place because you get to see the amazing variety of flowers that grow everywhere. Tip Book a cab at the Taxi Operators’ Welfare Society at the chauraha to avoid the big commissions charged by hotels. Uttarakhand 129

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Anasakti Ashram

Located just about a kilometre from the Kausani Bus Stand and accessible by a short uphill walk, the Anasakti Ashram was built as a tribute to Mahatma Gandhi. This is where he spent two weeks writing his treatise Anasakti Yoga. There is a small museum dedicated to Gandhi at the ashram, which depicts his life story through photographs. His charkha (spinning wheel) and other personal items are also displayed here. There is also a small library in the premises. Evening prayers at the ashram are quite mellifluous. You can choose to stay at the ashram if rooms are available. The Himalayan peaks clearly visible from here are the Chaukhamba, Nilkanth, Nanda

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fast facts When to go April–June and September–November are the best months Tourist offices ● KMVN Trishul Tourist Bungalow, Kausani Tel: 05962-258006 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 41519366 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05962

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Ghunti, Trishul, Mrigathuni, the twin peaks of Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East, Nanda Khat, Nanda Kot and the Panchachuli summits. u Prayer room timings 5.00am, 6.00pm (7.00pm in summer) Tel 05962-258028 Tip Admission to the museum is free of charge.

Kausani Tea Estate The high-flavour Girias Uttaranchal tea is produced in 208 hectares of tea plantations, spread over 21 divisions, in the vicinity of Kausani. You can stroll through any part of the government-run tea estate.

Sarla Ashram (Lakshmi ashram) Sarlaben, a disciple of Gandhi earlier known as Catherine Hillman, founded this serene ashram overlooking the Kosi Valley in 1964.The ashram also functions as a school, which provides education to girls. There is a workshop where you can buy sweaters, gloves, bags, prayer mats and such-like. u Timings 9.00am–4.30pm W lakshmiashram.uk

Sumitranandan Pant Gallery The famous Hindi poet Sumitranandan Pant was born in Kausani. At his ancestral house, thousands of books in English and Hindi locked up in cracked, dusty glass cabinets give a sense of his eclectic reading tastes. There are photographs of Pant and a few plaques on the dingy walls inscribed with lines from Pant’s poetry. Every year on 20 May,

Kausani sanjay sharma

Golden fields along the walk from Kausani down to the Kosi River Valley

the birth anniversary of the poet, a poetry symposium is held here. u Location Main Market Timings 10.30am–4.30pm Closed Monday Shopping

Buy any of the five grades of Girias tea at the Anand & Sons store right outside the tea factory. Also get ‘Himalayan fresh’ organic products such as pickles, herbs, local grains, squashes, jams and honey here. Girias tea is also available at the neighbouring at shops in Kausani. Bring home some nutritious madua flour and the gehat and dals from the grocer on the main chauraha, for a Kumaoni flavour at home. Handknitted caps and Cotswold shirts are available at the Kausani Woollen

House (Tel: 05962-258031) on the main chauraha, while the Kumaon Shawl Emporium (Tel: 258031) near Anasakti Ashram has lovely hand-woven shawls. Khadi Bhandar on Mall Road stocks pullovers, gloves, quilts, jhola bags and bed covers made by the girls at Sarla Ashram. On the drive back to Almora, stop by at the Shri Gandhi Ashram Khadi Bhawan at Chanauda (7km) to buy cotton and silk khadi, soaps, honey and pickles. WHERE TO STAY and eat

All around the Anasakti Ashram are a clutch of guesthouses and hotels. The most trustworthy of these is Hotel Sagar (Cell: 05962-258018; Tariff: ` 999–3,500). Aashritha Uttarakhand 131

Kumaon

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (177km/ 6hrs). Taxis charge `3,500–5,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (139km/ 5hrs). A taxi to Kausani costs `2,000–2,500, one-way Road From Delhi, follow NH24, NH9 and then NH109 till Almora, via Kathgodam, Bhowali and Khairnav. From Almora, Kausani is 52km via Katarmal and Someshwar Bus One bus leaves for Haldwani daily from Delhi’s ISBT Vivekananda at Anand Vihar at 5.00pm. From Haldwani, taxis charge `2,500–5,000 for Kausani See Route Planner on pp92–93.

Kausani (Tel: 258016, Cell: 09368032826, 081268 86255; Tariff: `3,000–4,500) boasts the best views. Another good option is Krishna Mountview (Tel: 258022, 258008, Cell: 09927944472/ 73; Tariff: `1,950–7,450). It has a gift shop, gym, pool table and ice-cream parlour. KMVN’s Trishul Tourist Rest House (Tel: 258006, Cell: 08650002545; Tariff: `1,500–5,000) offers great Himalayan views. The staff is polite. They organise tours

and treks. A number of resorts are located near the tea gardens on the Baijnath Road. The Heritage Resort (Cell: 08958667000, 09720193444, 09412092099; Tariff: `4,500–7,500, with two meals) has 18 rooms, a good restaurant, a coffee shop and amazing views. Chevron Eco Lodge (Tel: 011-22753151; Tariff: `4,000– 10,000, with two meals), with 12 rooms, is a great option offering outdoor activities. Divya Darshan Ashraya Resort (Cell: 09756694250; Tariff: `1,550–2,500) offers rooms and cottages, a restaurant, as well as guided treks. Hotel Hill Palace (Tel: 258002; Tariff: `1,500–2,800) offers 25 rooms. Himalayan Mount View Resort (Tel: 258080; Tariff: `900–3,100) offers 19 rooms. Hotel Rudraksh Palace (Cell: 09720007526; Tariff: `1,500–2,500) has rustic cottages. Garden Restaurant and Yogi Restaurant on the Mall, and Hill Queen and Saurabh near Anasakti Ashram offer vegetarian Punjabi, Gujarati and sometimes Kumaoni cuisine. Try the ubiquitous tea shacks that serve cups of sweet milky tea, and everything from buttered toast and omelette to delicious pakoras and parathas. For more, see Kausani Accommodation Listings on pp310–11. ■

132 Uttarakhand

Chopta

Almora

Jim Corbett National Park

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Haridwar

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Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

View of the spectacular Panchachuli peaks from Munsiyari

shutterstock

munsiyari To the Edge of the Horizon ■ Sonia

Jabbar

his scenic hill station sits comfortably somewhere in the middle aisle of a grand amphitheatre. In front, like a 70-mm projection, is the Panchachuli range, Hansling, Rajarambha and Chhiplakot, all peaks over 19,000ft. At sunset, when the sky sets ablaze, one anticipates the striking up of an orchestra, inundating the valley with Dolby surround sound. Then all of a sudden, as if someone has thrown a switch, the colour drains out in front, leaving the sky and mountains in soft tones of pink 136 Uttarakhand

and grey. At night, it is perfectly still and quiet. A few pin-pricks of light mark the houses of the town and distant villages in the far hills. That is all. There are no idli-dosa joints, no dhabas with loud music, no pony rides, and no bus loads of noisy tourists from the plains. Myth and history get blurred when they intersect with the geography of the Johar Valley, of which Munsiyari is the largest town. The Panchachuli Range dominates the vista. They say that it was the last resting place of the Pandavas, a site where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven.

munsiyari

They say, too, that the inhabitants of the valley were once Nagas, great serpents, who were persecuted by a Garuda who wiped out all but the last inhabitant. Before he could do that, he was struck down by the emissary of Shaukya Lama, a wise guru of the north. The emissary was so taken in by the beauty of the place that he decided to stay, and so originated the Shaukya tribe, who still inhabit the Johar Valley.

The Drive to Munsiyari The map lied: its clean, relatively straight line running from Almora northeast to Munsiyari made the 232km seem easily traversable in a day. It didn’t account for the tightly winding roads which led the struggling vehicle up to 9,000-ft-high wind-swept passes; nor hinted at the innumerable breaks one needed to dally at waterfalls, swim in rivers, picnic in deodar forests or pick rhododendron flowers. To get the most out of Munsiyari, the trip should be treated as a leisurely driving holiday with at least a week in hand. I overnighted at Almora (see p124) and then drove to Vijaypur via the temple town of Bageshwar. The road then climbs steadily through chir forested slopes and picturesque villages. By the time we crossed Thal (26km from Chaukori) and entered the beautiful Ramganga east gorge it was lunchtime – fortuitously. About 10km from Thal and 2km before the village of Nachani, a small dirt track leads off the main road down to the river. Spend at least an hour

on a picnic lunch and swim in the ice-cold, turquoise waters of the Ramganga. About 34km before Munsiyari, right after you cross the Bala bridge, take a tea break at the Birthi Falls. Plummeting down 125m, this is the tallest waterfall of the area. Travel to this area between March and April and, climbing up from Birthi, marvel at the rhodo dendron trees with blood-red flowers at Ratapani. Then ascend towards the 9,000-ft-high pass at Kalamuni, and watch the blooms turn from fuschia to rose-pink, to white with the faintest blush of pink. Kalamuni is the vantage point on the top of a great amphitheatre whose backdrop is the snow-amassed Panchachuli Range. The next stop – Munsiyari – is just 23km away. things to see and do

There are a number of sights in the immediate vicinity of Munsiyari, most of which should be visited on

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go End of February to midJune; October to December Tourist Office l KMVN TRH, Munsiyari Tel: 05961-222339 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05961

Uttarakhand 137

Kumaon

foot. For the sights further away, drive, or take a taxi, if you haven’t driven up yourself.

Picnic on the Munsiyari Bugyal Hike up to this lovely meadow just east of the town off the Zara Resort Road. It’s a very easy walk and a must for magnificent views of the Panchachuli Range, the Johar Valley and the village of Harkot, dropping far below in the valley to your right. Walk straight to the east as the bugyal dips down towards the Nanda Devi Mandir. Return to town via the old Gas Godown Road. The bugyal is 6km from The Last Frontier – Wayfarer Munsiyari, a 3-hr

walk one-way. Head out postbreakfast, climb up, spend a couple of hours up there taking in the views over a packed picnic lunch.

Nanda Devi Temple Nanda Devi Temple is dedicated to the goddess of Kumaon, the Nanda Devi Mountain. It is at a distance of about 3km from the Munsiyari market. The temple is a simple building that can be accessed by a short walk after the main road ends. The path for the same is lined with trees on both sides of the road. You get to see brilliant views of the mighty Himalayas once inside the temple. Colourful flowers and herbs grow in the vast open grounds of the temple complex.

Maheshwari or Meshar Kund UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar Airport (357km/ 14hrs; Tel: 05944-233685), linked to Delhi by Air India flights four days a week. Taxi costs `6,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam. The drive to Munsiyari takes two days (taxi fare `2,500–3,000 per day) Road From Delhi, take NH24, NH9 and NH109 till Rudrapur. Turn right at the circle in Rudrapur to Khatima via Kichha and Nanak Sagar along NH9. Carry on along NH9 to Lohaghat via Tanakpur and Champawat. Next day, take NH309A and SH11 to Munsiyari via Ghat, Rameshwar, Gangolihat, Berinag, Thal, Birthi and Ratapani See Route Planner on pp92–93.

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Walk uphill a couple of hundred yards from the Munsiyari Forest Rest House and you will find a paved path moving uphill on your right. Follow the path as it climbs steadily for half an hour through a pretty forest, until you arrive at a small meadow ringed by huge oaks and rhododendrons. On the northern edge of the meadow lies the lake. Today it’s a mere pond, but a charming spot, nonetheless, for a picnic accompanied by great views of the Panchachuli Range. The forest rest house is 3km from The Last Frontier – Wayfarer Munsiyari.

Darkot About 6km from Munsiyari on the Mad Kot Road lies the small village of Darkot. Visit the 100-year-old wooden houses with traditionally carved

Nainital

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Gangotri

Simply Heaven Rajaji National Park

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Almora

Kumaon shubham mansingka

Bala Cascades

When heading out of Munsiyari, start early for the return trip armed with a packed lunch and swimsuit, and stop at Bala just past the Birthi Falls. Find a path moving upriver and jump down across the rocks to find beautiful, clear blue natural swimming pools on at least three different levels. WHERE TO STAY and eat

Tribal Heritage Museum

doors and windows. Also, there is no better place to shop for pure hand made pashmina and angora shawls and sheep wool blankets.

Tribal Heritage Museum This privately-owned museum in the Nanasem village showcases the local life of Johar Valley through a collection of photographs, antiques, books and maps. A small section of the museum has the different kinds of herbs and pulses grown in the area. The displays in the museum have been painstakingly put together by Dr SS Pangthi, or Masterji, an authority on the Bhotia tribe.

The Himalayan Ark Home Stays (Cell: 09411194041; Tariff: `1,600– 2,500 per person, with meals) offers comfortable rooms. They also provide nature guides, porters and cooking-staff for guests going on treks and expeditions. Zara Resort (Tel: 05961-222524; Tariff: `1,800–3,500) is the largest hotel in the area. KMVN’s Panchachuli Tourist Rest House (Tel: 222339; Tariff: `1,100–3,000, dorm `200) is in the main bazaar. Milam Inn (Tel: 258012, 258333, Cell: 09412924222; Tariff: `1,400– 5,000) is a simple and clean property. Apart from the restaurants at the hotels, there are only a few tea shops in the Munsiyari bazaar. For more, see Munsiyari Accommodation Listings on p312. ■

140 Uttarakhand

Inputs by Shubham Mansingka

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

Courtesy Kalmatia Sangam Himalaya Resort

Tasteful cottages on a wooded hill with views of Himalayan peaks

kumaon village stays DEORA, DHAULACHINA ■ Sonia

Jabbar

or those who want a bit of nature and adventure, what could be better than staying well off the metalled road? From Almora, a low-altitude hike takes you over undul at ing country through beautiful terraced fields and forests into charming Kumaoni villages whose enterprising folk are now offering homestays. The best way to organise this trek is to stay a night or two at AyurVAID Kalmatia (Email: kalmatia@ayurvaid.com) in Almora. Email them at least a week in advance and ask them to book 142 Uttarakhand

the overnight stays at Deora and Dhaulachina. You can also ask them to provide you with a guide.

Deora The 12-km walk to Deora begins from Kalmatia Sangam in Almora, an easy 4-hour trek. Between Kalmatia Sangam Resorts and the chai shops, you will find a stone paved path running downhill, heading north past the village of Matgaon. The village is scattered, extending all the way down the hill to the bottom of the valley. Follow the path as it skirts the bottom of the

kumaon village stays

hill and turns to the northeast. You will cross a little cemented bridge and skirt the edges of fields until you come to a larger bridge over a stream. Cross the river and head upstream, keeping to the true right of the valley. Continue upstream and you should reach the lovely little Mahegad Shiva Temple just a couple of hours after leaving Kalmatia. Cross over to the left bank of the stream and climb the embankment following the water pipes, until you find a path across the stream heading uphill. Climb down and up the right bank again, descending to the Bintola Fields soon after. Walk on the parapet of the small irrigation channel as it’s easier than walking through fields. After Bintola Village the path turns left, or north, climbing gently up to a water point and some abandoned buildings. Follow the path as it descends past Rithapali Village and turns to the northeast, or right, to descend to the valley floor and the village of Naini. There are some spectacular old temples in the vicinity with beautifully carved stone idols of Shiva-Parvati. One of the smaller shrines has a four-headed Shiva. From Naini, cross the small stream over a pucca bridge and the cemented path ascends gently to the northwest, up the hill to the small village of Deora. You can ask anyone for Nar Singh’s house and bunk down for the night after a wholesome dinner of rotis and delicious saag.

Dhaulachina

After your day/s in Deora, start on the easy 12-km walk to Dhaulachina, which should take from 4–5 hours. From the top of Deora Village follow the level path leading out to the east and then northeast, skirting the hill and then gently descending through groves of pine. It passes by the village of Chirala before descending sharply down to the valley floor. Follow the track heading north–northeast until you see a temple down by the stream on your right. Take that path on your right, to the old Sapteshwar Mahadev Temple. You can stop at the tea-shop by the stream here. The walk from Deora should have taken no longer than 1.5 hours. From the teashop, backtrack to the point where you turned off on the path to the right. Now head north for a few minutes and then take a left into the valley heading to the northwest.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go All year round, but summer is the best time for exploring Tourist Office l KMVN Holiday Home Mall Road Almora Tel: 05962-230250 Cell: 08650002532 STD code 05962

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Kumaon

It is more convenient to walk on the cemented walls of the irrigation channel, but do this only if you have a head for heights. Otherwise, descend to the valley floor and walk up northwest, crossing the stream over a pucca bridge. The

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport to Almora: Pantnagar (120km/ 4hrs). A taxi to Almora costs `1,800–2,500 Rail Nearest railhead to Almora: Kathgodam (87km/ 3.5hrs). A taxi to Almora costs `1,200 one-way, sharing taxi costs `200 Road Almora is the base for your walks to Deora and Dhaulachina. To get to Almora from Delhi, follow the route till Kathgodam via NH24, NH9 and NH109. Five kilometres ahead of Kathgodam at Ranibagh, turn right (at the sign for the HMT factory) and follow Bhowali-Bhimtal Road to Bhimtal. At Bhimtal, skirt the lake, cross the bridge and at the junction, turn left towards Bhowali. From Bhowali market, head north to Khairna. At Khairna, take the right fork across the Kosi River to Almora via Suyalbari Bus Ordinary buses leave for Almora from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar between 5.30am and 7.30pm. Opt for the Volvo to Haldwani. Taxi from Haldwani costs `1,200–2,500 See Route Planner on pp92–93.

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path ascends gently for about an hour to the small hamlet of Palyu, then goes level, still heading northwest for a short while through pine forests, before dropping down to a small shallow stream. Cross easily and climb up to the other bank. From here, head north for about five minutes and you will come to a wide ditch. Head left, up the ditch due northwest, for literally two minutes, and you will find a path leading up the steep embankment to your right. A scramble up the steep slope will bring you onto the main road. From here scramble up the hill in front of you again, moving a few degrees to your left, or north, through forests until you come upon a clearing with a few houses. This is the hamlet of Kahlon and from here you will find the ‘chehfootiya’ path, which winds its way up to Dhaulachina. The last section, from the first houses of Dhaulachina to the main road and the Eco Tourist Resort, is a bit of a climb. But you will be in Dhaulachina by lunchtime and so you can head straight for the up-scale dhaba, the Hill View Hotel and Restaurant, for a filling lunch of delicious tandoori rotis and dal-subzi. Head uphill a few hundred metres to the Eco Tourist Resort afterwards. The resort is perched on the lip of a hill, with tented accommodation, a lovely garden and equally lovely views. You can spend a lovely afternoon and evening birding in the forests spread around Dhaulachina. ■

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

Relax at a private sit-out and take in the sight of snowy peaks

SHAKTI

LETI VIEW FROM THE TOP ■ Hari

Menon

fire crackles warmly nearby, and I settle more comfortably into my leather armchair and sip again at my Rioja. I’m still tingling, from a hot shower, but even more from a long hike to see some of the most jaw-dropping mountain scenery in the world. I’m sitting 7,200ft up in the Kumaon Himalaya, in one of the more improbable luxury resorts on earth. 360° Leti is just five buildings scattered about a high meadow atop a ridge that looks like nothing so much as the snout of a sleeping 146 Uttarakhand

dinosaur. Around, in the gathering gloom, the lower hills are dark with oak and rhododendron forests. Higher up, the peak of Nanda Kot and its surrounding mountains, which soar more than 19,685ft, are lit a ghostly white from the millions of stars in the sky. It’s a far cry from Delhi, where I’ve just spent 10 choking days blundering through smog. Life in a big city has its payout, but the associated stresses often demand that you invest some of that money into escape. 360° Leti is one of those places that addresses such needs quite wonderfully.

LETI

360° Leti was started by Jamshyd Sethna, the man behind Shakti, which does high-end hiking holidays, starting with operations here in Kumaon (2004), Sikkim (2007) and Ladakh. 360° Leti is provided as a package with a few days of hiking between three villages in Kumaon where Shakti has converted traditional local village homes into very comfortable rooms; the idea being that the time spent hiking in relative, if rustic, comfort should be capped with three days spent in luxury. 360° Leti is unforgettable, but it does offer a very individual view of luxury. There is only a very particular audience for the pleasures that it offers – a combination of great food and drink, wonderful contemporary design, lovely hikes and staggeringly beautiful natural surroundings that is quite unique.

The centrepiece is the beautiful peak of Nanda Devi, at over 26,000ft, the highest peak within India. There are several higher individual mountains, but virtually nowhere on the planet is there a wall of rock, snow and ice that presents a barrier quite like the Great Himalaya. To visit Leti, you have to be fit and should ideally have had some experience of trekking over difficult terrain at moderate altitude (6,500– 7,200ft). The walk to 360° Leti itself is moderately challenging, and it’s easy for an inexperienced or ill-shod walker to twist an ankle. The scenic beauty is absolutely worth any amount of panting and sweating, but if you have any doubts about your physical and cardiovascular fitness to enjoy the

Things to see and do

The view from 360° Leti itself is fabulous, but there’s something much better for those willing to put in a little work. On my first morning there, we are off on a 4-hour trek up to a shepherd’s pasture on a ridge about 10,500ft high. It isn’t easy, with moderately hard stretches, though some of the way is eased by conversations with my guide Siddhartha. And then, just past a ruined herder’s hut and a chorten, it’s there, a simply jawdropping, staggering sight – a 300km stretch of the entire Central Himalayan Massif.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go 360° Leti’s season runs from October 1 to April 20 (closing date can change depending on the weather). It’s closed for the rest of the year. Tourist Office/ Tour Operator l Shakti Tours Pvt Ltd 903-904, Vatika City Point Sector 25, MG Road, Gurgaon Tel: 0124-4563899 W shaktihimalaya.com l KMVN Bageshwar. Cell: 08650002546 STD code 05965

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Rail The Ranikhet Express connects Delhi to Kathgodam Station, from where Shakti arranges transfers for the 7.5-hr drive to the roadhead just ahead of Leti village Road From Leti village, it’s a 2-hr walk, involving a 1,000-ft descent followed by an equally steep climb to 360° Leti. The path is over rough, broken terrain at heights of up to 7,200ft, so you need to be fairly fit and used to hiking over narrow trails, rock and scree. Driving up from Delhi takes about 13hrs See Route Planner on pp92–93.

experience, do check with your doctor before setting out. Tip A visit to Leti is best combined with trekking stays at Kumaoni villages in Almora District (see p124). The whole experience will be organised by Shakti (see Fast Facts above). where to stay and eat

360° Leti offers four cottages, each offering distinct views of the Himalayas. Tariff for a 3N/ 4D package starts from `1,94,425 per adult; `3,88,850 per cottage, with accommodation in a private cottage and a car at disposal, and is inclusive of all meals and beverages, activities, guide and porters. Like the other 148 Uttarakhand

stays that Shakti offers, you have to do a little work to enjoy what’s on offer at 360° Leti. In this case it’s a walk from the roadhead at Leti village that takes in a sharp 300m descent to a rocky ford across a mountain stream, followed by an equally sharp climb. The resort reveals itself quite spectacularly – architect Bijoy Jain’s Studio Mumbai has created structures that use some traditional techniques like dry stone stacking for the walls, with an aesthetic that is entirely contemporary. The lines are clean and linear in a way that looks like nothing else in the Indian hills. The cottages have fireplaces, wonderfully light and warm duvets, and elegant teak and brass-lined bathrooms. But it’s all clearly done to a very understated, almost mini malist aesthetic. Your room doesn’t come with broadband or plasma TV. There isn’t particularly good cell phone coverage, and no room service, for that matter. The lack of such frills does make some sense, though. Absolutely nothing comes in the way of the most important thing these cottages offer – an individual and quite astounding view. And though there are excellent wines and other drinks to go with some fine food, there’s no extensive menu. You simply eat what a very good chef decides is appropriate for that day’s meals. For more, see Leti Accommodation Listings on p311. ■

SIMPLY WOW

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

The splendid backdrop to ‘border town’ Gwaldam

ahtushi deshpande

GWALDAM SITTING ON THE FENCE ■ Ahtushi

Deshpande

s the road begins to snake up to the Pindar River Basin from Tharali, the lush aroma of the woods begins to tickle your senses. Villages appear sporadically amid lush fields of wheat and bright red amaranthus. As you stare at the distant northern horizon, your gaze falls on a dense forest of rhodo dendrons and oaks, and beyond them the mighty Trishul, Maiktoli and Nanda Ghunti peaks. Before you know it, you’re at the top of the ridge and closing in on the tiny hamlet of Gwaldam. 150 Uttarakhand

Mined to the hilt by the British as a summer resort, Gwaldam (6,221 ft) still holds remnants of the Raj in well-preserved nooks of this idyllic, quiet corner of Chamoli. In recent times, Gwaldam seems to have fallen off the welltrod path. If you were heading to the famous high-altitude pastures of Bedni and Ali bugyals, you would pass through Gwaldam. And most people do just that – use it as a base for treks. But Gwaldam also affords the opport unity to experience a uniquely composite hill culture, existing as it does on the border between Garhwal and

GWALDAM

Kumaon. There are Garhwalis, Kumaonis, even some Bhotias here. There is none of the traditional rivalry between the two neigh bours, its residents speak a dialect that is neither Kumaoni nor Garhwali but a mix of both. All of which makes Gwaldam a place like no other in the state. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Gwaldam is spread over 6sq km, straddling a deeply forested hill. The Bhagwati Temple, the few hotels and the market all lie at the crossroads of the town. The Border Security Force training facility stretches over a vast area in the upper part of town. This gives Gwaldam a cantonment feel, while still pretty remnants of the Raj, such as the Forest Rest House, evoke nostalgia for a bygone era.

and Garhwalis, the Kali shrine here is full of bells strung by devotees. Of the 52 garhs of petty chieftains in Garhwal, Badhangarhi was the last stronghold, and had faced many attacks from Kumaon. Remnants of old fort walls can be seen above the temple. A 5-minute climb from the temple takes you to a vantage point that offers a panoramic view of the mountains to the north and to the south, the vast bowl of Kumaon’s Katyuri Valley. Two paths lead from Benatoli up to Agyari Mahadev. The right fork is a 4-km foray into the ridge-top forest to this ancient Shiva shrine. The left fork affords gentler access. Another 2-hour trail from Benatoli due southeast takes you to the hilltop shrine of Gwaldam Nag, which gives the town its name. The temple is dedicated to the serpent god and also offers lovely views.

Walks out of Benatoli There are three excellent, not too challenging walks to be had, all of which begin at Benatoli. To get there, drive back down the road towards Tharali, and 3km out of Gwaldam, you will see a road going left. This is the Benatoli Campus Road going to Benatoli. As you drive in you will see the Bhim Patthar rock. Legend goes that the Pandava Bhim kicked a rock at Badhangarhi, which fell at this spot with his footprints imprinted on it. From here, a 1-hour/ 2-km forested trail uphill leads to the ridge-top Badhangarhi (7,415ft). Equally revered by both Kumaonis

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Any time of year except the late winter months Tourist offices ● GMVN TRH, Gwaldam. Tel: 01363-274244 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 23319835 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 01363

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Kumaon

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (225km/ 7hrs). Taxi fare to Gwaldam is `6,000–7,500 approx. Rail Nearest railheads: Haridwar (232km/ 7.5hrs, taxi `6,000–7,500; see p32 for train connections) and Kathgodam (182km/ 7hrs, taxi `4,500– 5,000; see p98 for train connections) Road Gwaldam is 36km off NH7 that links Delhi to Badrinath. Take NH34 and NH7 from Delhi till Karnaprayag via Roorkee, Haridwar, Rishikesh, Devprayag, Srinagar and Rudraprayag. From Karnaprayag, the road follows the Pindar River to Tharali (15km), before snaking its way up 21km to Gwaldam via Talwari Tip Gwaldam is 43km north of Kausani via Baijnath and Sirkot on the Kathgodam-Almora Road See Route Planner on pp92–93.

Bodh Mandir, Baghtoli

The Bhotia settlement at Baghtoli dates to the late 1950s. The Bodh Mandir gompa here was built in 1989. The sanctum is lined with statues of the Buddha’s incarnations. A narrow staircase leads to the rooftop from where, through strings of colourful prayer flags, you can see the vast expanse of the valley.

Machhi Tal Hidden in a nook in the ridge along a gentle stream 9km out of 152 Uttarakhand

Gwaldam on the road to Debal, Machhi Tal came up in 1928, when the British bred fish here for personal consumption. Now run as a fish production farm by the state government, this tranquil spot amidst thick forests makes for a lovely picnic spot. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The Raj-era Forest Bungalow (DFO Badrinath Tel: 01372-252175; Tariff: `1,000), set by a small lake, has fabulous views of the Himalayas. You can cook your own meals in the well-appointed kitchen. Book well in advance. Nature’s Treat Resort (Tel: 01363-274389; Tariff: `2,500) is the best private option. All rooms have balconies with views of the Himalayas and the Pindar Valley. The hotel’s restaurant also provides room service. Nature’s Treat’s sister concern, Trishul Guest House (Cell: 087556 18992; Tariff: `700), offers basic rooms and has an old-world charm. The GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 274244; Tariff: `500–990), right atop the busy market, is at a noisy spot. It offers six rooms and has a restaurant. Come here to book guides for treks. Midpoint in the market serves decent snacks and sweets, while the line of dhabas in the tiny market square serve basic north Indian meals. For more, see Gwaldam Accommodation Listings on p292. ■

SIMPLY DIVINE

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Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

Courtesy Abbott mount cottage

Abbott Mount is a splendid place for relaxing walks amidst nature

abbott mount THE CLOUDS beneath YOUR FEET ■ LESLEY

A ESTEVES

ot even the breathtaking vistas of the forested drive to Champawat district from Kathgodam can prepare you for the beauty that greets you in Abbott Mount. After long stretches of moss-covered deodar forests you finally reach Lohaghat on the banks of the Lohawati River. Soon you are leaving Lohaghat’s crowded bazaar behind and, 6km ahead at Marorakhan, climbing dramatically up through the clouds over a 3km road to the tiny settlement of Abbott Mount. There are just 13 154 Uttarakhand

cottages spread across this hill, all built pre-Independence by John Harold Abbott of Jhansi, who named the hill after himself. We drove straight down into the driveway of our cottage, unchanged since the time Abbott first built it. Deodars, pears and a solitary walnut tree graced the grounds. We stepped out of the car and there they were – the Himalaya stretched across the horizon. The caretaker pointed out the peaks – Trishul, Maiktoli, Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti, the majestic twin-peaked Nanda Devi. He tried to point out the Pindari Glacier, but the clouds

abbott mount

rose too fast. Beneath our feet, the bowl of the Soar Valley was filled with clouds. It was for this special view that Abbott chose this particular mount that towers above the neighbouring hills. And which affords the visitor the pleasure of sipping tea in a garden while watching the clouds float by, beneath her feet. After the sun set and it was pitch dark, we still sat facing the mountains, clustered around a bonfire under the walnut tree. The fireflies turned the deodars into Christmas trees; the brandy travelled all the way down to our toes. And, all the while, the caretaker told us tall tales of leopards and ghosts in the surrounding hills. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The panoramic views will dominate your time in Abbott Mount, for all the cottages and the cricket pitch, where everybody congregates, have conveniently been oriented towards the grand mountains. There’s little to distract you from your contemplation of the purity of Nanda Devi’s white coat, save for the occasional woodpecker. When you can tear yourself away, there are walking trails, some accompanied by streams, that run across the forested hill. Wear walking shoes with a good grip, or you are sure to slip on the mossy trails.

The Mount Visit Abbott Mount’s cricket pitch on the summit of the hill. At just

under 7,000ft, Abbott Mount’s is reputed to be the world’s second highest cricket pitch, after Chail’s in Himachal Pradesh. At the eastern end of the pitch, follow the trail down to the tiny church where JH Abbott lies buried, forever facing his beloved mountains. The church, sadly, is in a total state of neglect. Any number of trails lead down the mount from the pitch. Follow these and come across the wildflowers of Kumaon and fat mushrooms that you should not even dream about eating. We went further down one of these trails than we had planned to and looked back up to find that we could barely see the crest of the mount or the cottage; we were just perhaps a little lost. But it was really very simple to just continue in the direction we had set off in – on a round mountain, where can you eventually get to, but the same place you started at?

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Year round. Snow falls only for a couple of weeks in winter Tourist Office ● KMVN Tourist Rest House Champawat Tel: 05965-230030 STD code 05965

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Angling

Abbott Mount is visited as a base for Pancheshwar, a pleasant 36-km drive away via Lohaghat. This village oversees the confluence of the Kali and Sarda rivers, both rich with mahseer. Carry your equipment along. Abbott Mount Cottage (see Where To Stay And Eat) and quite a few of the operators in the ‘Angling in Kumaon’ story (see p261) offer angling packages for Pancheshwar.

Champawat The district headquarters, 22km from Abbott Mount, is a historic town filled with wood-carved houses, and

an old fort which now houses the tehsil office. Its undisputed glory, however, is the Sri Baleshwar Temple Complex, whose delicate beauty has endured since the 10th century CE. The roofs and outer walls of the four shrines here are splendidly carved. The inner sanctum of the main shrine is small and intimate. The temple is a few steps from Cham pawat’s main bazaar on the road in from Lohaghat, located on the hill behind Chaudhury’s cloth shop. Pick up bal mithai at the many sweet shops here. (See Champawat Accommodation Listings on p308.) WHERE TO STAY and eat

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (163km/ 6hrs). It is a long drive to Abbott Mount. Taxi costs `4,000– 4,500 one-way Road From Delhi follow the route via Hapur and Rampur on NH24 and NH9 till Rudrapur. At the circle in Rudrapur, turn right towards Kichha and drive through the Terai to Khatima via Loka and the Nanak Sagar Dam. From Khatima continue along NH9 on to Tanakpur, where the hill drive to Abbott Mount begins via Champawat and Lohaghat. Six kilometres ahead of Lohaghat, at Marorakhan, a 3-km road winds up to Abbott Mount See Route Planner on pp92–93.

Abbott Mount Cottage (Noida Tel: 0120-4222797, 4333965, Cell: 09811704651; Tariff: `3,500) is one of Abbott’s 13 lovely heritage cottages, built nearly a 100 years ago. It offers four rooms, with attached baths, and phenomenal views. They’ll take you for trekking to Panchachuli base and fishing at Pancheshwar. Bunty’s Cottage (Cell: 09897737476; Tariff: `2,000 per person, with all meals), earlier known as Camp Abbott, is another option with three rooms and two tents (pitched during season). It offers rafting, camping, trekking, angling at Pancheshwar, and, of course, lovely views of the Himalayan peaks. The cottage also has indoor games to keep you entertained. For more, see Abbott Mount Accommo dation Listings on p304. ■ With Mitali Saran in Champawat

156 Uttarakhand

SIMPLY BREATHTAKING

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Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Kumaon

The Goriganga near its confluence with the Kali, just north of Askot

Gireesh GV

Askot the end of the road ■ charu

soni

ome 54km from Pithoragarh, the district’s busy commercial centre in the Soar Valley, Askot is located on the Goriganga-Kali river divide and falls on the way to Dharchula, the starting point for the annual Kailash-Manasarovar pilgrimage. The ridge on which the tiny town of Askot sits, skirts surviving forests and tribal habitation, a part of which has – at least on paper – been designated as the Askot Musk Deer Sanctuary. But indiscriminate mining and large hydroelectric projects on the River 158 Uttarakhand

Kali have changed the character of the mountain habitat that was once home to the snow leopard, musk deer and many other creatures and vegetation that constitutes its unique bio-system. Yet despite these problems, this region of Uttarakhand is stunningly beautiful. The Himalayan ranges that unfold before the visitor, the cascading waterfalls that playfully descend the slopes, the frothy fero ciousness of the River Kali rushing to meet the Goriganga – all make for an unforgettable sensation of being reduced to a mere pebble in the vast and mighty kingdom of nature.

Askot

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The best way to explore the region around the Askot-Dharchula belt is to set base at Askot or its nearby town, Didihat (approx 28km from Askot). Both towns offer comfortable and accessible forest rest houses.

Along the road to Kailash Around 19km from Askot in the narrow valley where the Goriganga and Kali rivers meet, lies Jauljibi, a place venerated for the merging of the two mighty mountain rivers. From here the road forks, left for Munsiyari, right for Dharchula and Narayan Swamy Ashram. The 48-km journey from Askot to Dharchula is full of surprises. As one climbs from Jauljibi, the thickly forested road suddenly bursts into a wide barren mountain corridor. You become aware of the mighty River Kali that roars into existence below. And that here it’s India and across the river, Nepal. The road from here snakes through mountains and waterfalls before gently descending to Balwakot. At this point you are at eye level with the Kali River. At the end of the road is Dharchula, a large town, home to the Border Security Force and mining companies. It offers several budget stay options besides the KVMN rest house, which overlooks the suspension bridge between India and Nepal. You can visit the village across the river. Dharchula to Narayan Swamy Ashram is only 44km, but the metal road ends halfway into the journey at Tawaghat. It’s a good idea to hire a

jeep from Dharchula for the ashram. Turn left from Tawaghat for the dirt track to Sabla and continue on an upward climb to Narayan Swamy Ashram. Set up by Mangalorean sadhu Swamy Narayan in the 1930s, the ashram is situated in a beautiful field of flowers on a mountain terrace that affords amazing views of the Panchachuli mountain range. The ashram provides educational and medical facilities to the Bhotia community and stay and meals to pilgrims. It’s possible for tourists to stay a couple of days here.

Pithoragarh Kumaon’s third largest city is the launching pad for treks to the sacred Kailash Manasarovar Lake in Tibet, to Milam Glacier and the Darma Valley, and is an important base for

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go During the summer. Winter offers the best views, but poor wildlife sightings Tourist offices ● KMVN Tourist Rest House Pithoragarh. Tel: 05964-244345 Cell: 08650002538 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 41519366 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05964

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Kumaon

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Road The most viable option to get to Askot from Delhi is by road, because of the sheer distance from the nearest railhead at Kathgodam. The 16-hr drive from Delhi should be covered over two days. Follow the route from Delhi to Rampur on NH24 and NH9 till Rudrapur. At the circle in Rudrapur, turn right onto the road that cuts through the Terai of Udham Singh Nagar to get to Khatima via Kichha. At Khatima, turn left to Tanakpur and continue up till Ghat via Sukhidang, Champawat and Lohaghat. At Ghat, turn right for Askot, via Pithoragarh. You can break journey at Abbott Mount See Route Planner on pp92–93.

the Indian Armyas Pithoragarh is a border area. Carry good boots and trek around the mountains here. In the city is the hilltop Pitho ragarh Fort, built by the Gorkhas when they took over the town in 1789. Chandak (8km) is a beautiful hill from where you get the best view of the Himalayas. The locals strongly believe in the Manu Temple here. There is also an excuse of a reserved forest named Pithoragarh Banya Udyan and a small golf course. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Both Askot and Didihat provide the basic two-bedroom Forest Rest House 160 Uttarakhand

accommodation options, plus a caretaker who doubles up as a cook and can dish up pretty decent meals for a tip. The Askot FRH (Pithora garh Tel: 05964-225234; Tariff: `750), located on the periphery of the sanctuary, has two rooms. However, it was not operational at the time of research. Hotel Mall Palace (Tel: 227007, Cell: 09897965025; Tariff: `1,500–6,000) has 20 bright, airy rooms with attached baths and a multi-cuisine restaurant. Askotias Himalayan Guest House (Cell: 09690894878; Tariff: `1,000–2,000) is another place to stay. In Didihat, the Forest Rest House (Pithoragarh Tel: 225234; Tariff: `750) is 5km outside the town, and also has two rooms. The Dharchula KMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 05967-222557, Cell: 09411785384; Tariff: `800–900) has 21 rooms, two dorms (`200 per bed) and a restaurant. KMVN’s Ulka Devi Tourist Rest House (Tel: 225434; Tariff: `800–1,800, dorm `150 per bed) has its own restaurant. Many basic hotels crowd around the bus stand. There are enough makeshift dhabas in the entire region for meals. They serve up a fairly spicy treat that usually includes a potato vegetable, rajma or black dal and chana, besides the Kumaoni specialty – mustard and gourd raita. Pithoragarh’s main market has quite a few small joints, serving simple local food. Some also serve Chinese food. For more, see Askot Accommodation Listings on p305. ■

Pilgrimages

pilgrimages

The stunningly beautiful landscape near Badrinath

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CHAR DHAM YATRA YAMUNOTRI, GANGOTRI, KEDARNATH, BADRINATH ■ Smita

Choudhary & Shubhranshu Choudhary

ne of the most accessible yatras in India is also one of the most arduous. On the way to Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination, the sacred Yamuna accompanies yatris up to her source through the spectacularly scenic Rawaai Ghati, leaving us breathless not just because of the altitude. Nothing prepares us for the stun ning setting of Gangotri, our next dham, which overlooks the tumul tuous River Bhagirathi. We then descend to Kedarnath for an 162 Uttarakhand

uplifting walk in floating clouds as snowy peaks tower beyond stark mountain faces. Finally, we pay homage to Vishnu at Badrinath, where the lord meditates by the banks of the Alaknanda. On these four different journ eys, Dev Bhoomi, the sacred Himalayas, welcomes mere mortals for a journey to the heavens. planning the pilgrimage

Services and infrastructure, limited to only the summer months, are adequate but not luxurious. At Kedarnath and Yamunotri, pilgrims

CHAR DHAM YATRA

have to trek the last stretch to the temples. The high altitudes of Yamunotri, Gaumukh (see p227), Gangotri and Kedarnath may cause breathing problems in some people, who must avoid staying overnight. Asthma patients must keep inhalers handy. Heart patients should not attempt the walk. Even fit pilgrims are susceptible to the life-threatening Acute Mountain Sickness at these heights, for which the only treatment is to descend. Carry adequate woollens, including blankets.

Travel Agents Various operators (see Travel Operators on p281) offer standard packages for the Char Dham Yatra. For a round trip of all the four dhams, a trip by taxi will typically have a 9-night schedule, and one by shared bus will have an 11-night schedule, ex-Rishikesh. However, if one wishes to truly enjoy the experience of the pilgrimage and visit other places of interest, a 15–20-day itinerary is ideal.

YAMUNOTRI High up in a deep cleft on the western face of Banderpoonch Peak is Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination on the yatra. The pictu resque journey to the dham is along the River Yamuna itself. The Yamuna Valley, called Rawaai Ghaati, is spectacular. The main temple at Yamunotri is dedicated to Goddess Yamuna, represented by a black marble idol. The other deity is a white image of Goddess Ganga. Just outside the

main temple is the Divya Shila, a dark rock from which springs a stream of hot water. This is the origin of the Yamuna, the most holy area, and pilgrims offer puja here first. Technically, the cold

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go The yatra season extends from May to October. The exact dates of the temples’ opening and closing are determined according to the Hindu lunar calendar (refer to season under each dham). May–June witness the greatest rush. Monsoon (July–August) is difficult because of landslides and road closures Tourist offices l GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783/ 93, 2430799, 2435174 l GMVN Gangotri. Cell: 09568006669 l GMVN Kedarnath. Cell: 09412045815 l GMVN Badrinath. Tel: 01381-222212; Cell: 09568006651 l GMVN Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel: 01334-228686, 226430 l GMVN Janaki Chatti Cell: 09568006644 (For Yamunotri) l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 Email: delhi@gmvnl.com W gmvnl.in

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there YAMUNOTRI & GANGOTRI Road NH34 begins at Dharasu and goes to Gangotri. From Dharasu, NH134 goes north to Yamunotri, and south to Rishikesh. Taxis and buses go to Gangotri from Rishikesh (Bus Stand Tel: 0135-2430076, 2430008) and Uttar kashi (Bus Stand Tel: 01374-222154) GETTING TO KEDARNATH Air Amongst helicopter services, Pawan Hans (Rudraprayag Tel: 011-24615711; W pawanhans.co.in) charges `1,80,000 per head for the Dehradun-PhataKedarnath leg. Heritage Aviation (Cell: 09811404015, 09833907291; W heritageaviation.in) offers a 4N/ 5D package for the Dehradun-Phata-Char Dham leg at `1,55,000 per head Road There is no road to Kedarnath. A trekking trail from Gaurikund (14km/ 4hrs, one way) is accessed from the Delhi-Badrinath stretch on NH34 and NH7. In season, buses go to Gaurikund from Rishikesh GETTING TO BADRINATH Road Badrinath is the terminus of the 538-km Delhi-Badrinath stretch on NH34 and NH7. At Rishikesh, NH7 goes north to Badrinath. In season, buses go to Badrinath from Rishikesh Tip A gate at Joshimath for managing traffic is open from 6.00am–4.00pm every two hours. See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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stream source of the river is on the Champasar Glacier, near the Saptarishi Kund, a trek of 1km above the Yamunotri shrine. But it is a tough trek not accessible to the average yatri. Pilgrims take a dip in the hot waters of the Taptkund next to the main temple, which gets its water from the Suryakund nearby. It is believed that a bath in the waters of Yamunotri protects devotees from akaalmrityu (untimely death) and leads to moksha. Then, before visiting the main temple, puja is offered at the Divya Shila. After this, a small amount of rice and potatoes is cooked in the Suryakund, offered to Goddess Yamuna, and returned to the pilgrim as prasad. Devotees carry water from Yamunotri to offer to Lord Krishna during Janmashtami, for Yamuna was one of Krishna’s eight queens. When the temple closes in winter, the deity is taken to the winter seat at Kharsali (2km from Janki Chatti). u Timings 6.00am–8.00pm Aarti timings 6.30am and 7.30pm Season The temple opens on Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes on Yama Dwitiya, or Bhai Duj, the second day after Diwali (November) WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

In Yamunotri The popular Hanuman Mandir Dharamshala is run by Rambharose Das aka Nepali Baba. It has 30 rooms (Tariff: `500–1,000). Kali Kamli Dha ramshala (Kolkata Tel: 033-22686701, 22318181; Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2430 006) has eight rooms.

CHAR DHAM YATRA TRIBHUVAN TIWARI

Pilgrims on the last stretch from Janaki Chatti to Yamunotri

In Barkot (44km before Yamunotri) The GMVN Barkot (Tel: 01375224236, Cell: 09568006613) offers good accommodation options here. The Old Tourist Rest House (Tariff: `1,020) offers 10 rooms and a restaurant. The Barkot Annexe (Tariff: `1,650) offers four rooms. Meals here are arranged from the TRH. The rooms are neat and clean, with attached bathrooms. GMVN also has four dorms at Janta Yatri Niwas (Tariff: `210 per bed). It has a restaurant. Hotel Devbhoomi (Cell: 08171754463; Tariff: `1,200–5,000) on Yamunotri Road has 14 good rooms, a suite and a restaurant. Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 01146520000; Tariff: `8,000–11,000, with meals), just outside Barkot, offers luxurious tented accommodation.

Camp Nirvana (Cell: 09456529074; Tariff: `3,000), on the main highway, also offers luxurious Swiss tents with attached bath. Vegetarian food is served. Karan Palace (Cell: 094121 40235; Tariff: `600–1,000) is another option on Yamunotri Road, offering rooms, suites and a restaurant. In Sayana Chatti (14km) Hotel Kalindi (Cell: 09412140031; Tariff: `2,500–2,700) has 17 rooms and a restaurant. Hotel Himalaya (Cell: 09412946905; Tariff: `800– 1,100), in the market, has 29 rooms. The GMVN (Cell: 095680 06644; Tariff: `1,568–2,240) here has nine rooms. Bhaghirathi Palace (Cell: 09411397324; Tariff: `800) offers eight rooms. Many eateries around the bus stand offer Gujarati food. Uttarakhand 165

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In Janaki Chatti (7km) Hotel Atithi Niwas (Cell: 094121 40031; Tariff: `1,200–2,500) is the best option here, with 33 rooms and a restaurant. The GMVN (Cell: 09568006644; Tariff: `2,016), with 14 rooms, is reached by a 1-km walk. There are 10 rooms in the Annexe (Tariff: `950–1,568). For more, see Accommodation Listings on pp284–85 (Barkot), p294 (Janaki Chatti) and p302 (Sayana Chatti).

GANGOTRI The Gangotri shrine overlooks the thundering River Bhagirathi. It is the spiritual source of the Ganga, known as Bhagirathi after King Bhagirath, who performed a penance to bring her down from the heavens. River Ganga flowing past Gangotri town

It is believed that bathing in her waters brings deliverance from sins committed in the present and past births. Hence, Hindus perform the ancestral rites of shraadh and pind daan for their ancestors here. The actual source of the river is the ice cave of Gaumukh (see p227). Apart from Goddess Ganga, Annapurna, Mahadurga Yamuna, Shankar and Saraswati are also worshipped here. On reaching the shrine, pilgrims offer prayers at the temple and bathe in the main ghat. Water is collected for use during auspicious occasions. Also, Ganga jal from Gangotri is traditionally offered at Kedarnath (see p167) and Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu. Nearby is the Bhagirath Shila, a stone slab where King Bhagirath meditated. ◆ Timings 6.15am–2.00pm, 3.00– 9.30pm (summer); 6.45am–2.00pm, 3.00–7.00pm (as winter approaches) Aarti timings Sandhya aarti at 7.45pm (7.00pm in winter) Season As at Yamunotri Devotees also stop at Gangnani (en route to Gangotri), where Parashar Muni used to have his ashram, to bathe in the hot water springs there. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

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166 Uttarakhand

In Gangotri The GMVN Tourist Rest House (Cell: 09568006669; Tariff: `990–2,464) is located 100m away from the temple. The Great Ganga (Cell: 09412917886; Tariff: `1,000) and Bhagirathi Sadan (Cell: 09411399572; Tariff: `800– 1,000) are nice and clean, and located close to the main shrine. In fact, one

CHAR DHAM YATRA shutterstock

A priest performs an aarti at Kedarnath

can even view the aarti in the temple from the balconies of these hotels. A number of ashrams are on the other side of the river. There are also three well-equipped Forest Rest Houses (DFO Uttarkashi Tel: 01374-222121; Tariff: `1,050) here.

In Dharali (25km before Gangotri) Hotel Springdales (Cell: 096709 95511; Tariff: `2,000–4,000) is located opposite a waterfall. Prakriti – The Retreat (Dehradun Tel: 0135-2715 189/ 27; Tariff: `4,459–5,399) offers comfortable rooms and good food.

In Harsil (28km before Gangotri) Harsil Retreat (Cell: 09891158725; Tariff: `6,000, with two meals) offers eight cottages, jungle walks, treks and picnics. The Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: `9,500–12,500) here has luxury tents. There’s also a GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 013773-232210; Tariff: `1,904–2,789), with 12 rooms and a restaurant, and a two-room Forest Rest House (DFO Uttarkashi Tel: 01374-222444; Tariff: `1,500) here.

For more, see Accommodation Listings on p289 (Dharali), p290 (Gangotri) and p294 (Harsil).

KEDARNATH The northernmost Jyotirlinga and third stop in the Char Dham Yatra is located at 11,746ft, close to the source of the holy River Mandakini. From Gaurikund, the roadhead, Kedarnath is a 14-km trek northward along the Mandakini, a steady ascent along a paved path through a thick forest. It Uttarakhand 167

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is steep until Garur Chatti, after which the path levels out until Kedar nath. One can spot the snow-covered Sumeru Peak, the backdrop of the Kedarnath Temple, en route. At the shrine, pilgrims offer butter and ghee to the Jyotirlinga and embrace it, touching it with their forehead. They even offer silverplated bilva patras to the lord. Holy water from Gangotri is also offered. Bhog is offered by the priests at 4.00pm. u Timings 6.00am–2.00pm, 5.00– 8.00pm Aarti timings 6.45pm (Shringar Darshan 5.00pm onwards) Season Same as Yamunotri

Places to see en route Pilgrims generally take a bath at the hot springs in Gaurikund before Kedarnath Temple

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proceeding for Kedarnath. Parvati is said to have attained Lord Shiva at this spot. About 62km southeast of Kedarnath, towards Badrinath, is Ukhimath, where Krishna’s greatgrandson Aniruddha got married to Usha, daughter of Vanasur. The deities of the Kedarnath Temple are installed here after it’s closed during winter. Guptkashi, 45km south, has temples dedicated to Ardhanarishwar and Vishwanath. Where to stay and eat

In Kedarnath GMVN Kedarnath (Cell: 094120 45815/ 19) can accommodate 2,000 persons in their cottages (`600–990) and tents (`400). There are 5 suites at Swargarohini (Tariff: `6,000), 20 at Nandi Base Camp Complex (Tariff: `400 per bed), 42 at Kedar Dome (Tariff: `400 per person) and about 200 tents (Tariff: `200–250 per person) near the helipad and its surrounding areas. Punjab Sindh Awas (Cell: 09412915221; Tariff: `2,500–3,500) is the best guesthouse here. In Guptkashi (32km before Kedarnath) GMVN (Cell: 09568006659; Tariff: `2,240–3,540) has four rooms, four huts and two dorms. The Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: `8,000–11,000) offers luxu rious comforts. Camp Nirvana (Delhi Tel: 011-46107224; Tariff: `3,800) can book the helicopter darshan, and offers rooms and tents, and adventure sports. Mrityunjaya Palace Hotel (Cell: 09012537543; Tariff: `2,500)

SIMPLY EXITING

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

pilgrimages

offers eight rooms, a canteen and helicopter darshan bookings.

Tip Leather items must be left outside the Badrinath Temple.

In Gaurikund (14km before Kedarnath) GMVN (Cell: 09568006659; Tariff: `1,568–2,744) is the best place to stay, with clean rooms. The temple committee guesthouse was under construction at the time of research. There are a few basic hotels in Gaurikund, all of which charge approx `300–500 for rooms.

While in Badrinath

For more, see Accommodation Listings on p290 (Gaurikund), pp291– 92(Guptkashi) and p296 (Kedarnath).

BADRINATH By the banks of the River Alaknanda is Badrinath at 10,276ft. According to legend, Lord Vishnu himself meditated here, while his consort Lakshmi took the form of a berry (badri) tree to offer him shade. Narad, his main devotee, also stayed here. Devotees offer pind daan for their ancestors at the holy Brahma Kapal Tirth on the banks of the Alaknanda, just outside the gate of the Badrinath Temple. Facing the temple is a hot water spring known as Taptkund, a bath in which is refreshing. u Timings 4.00am–noon, 3.00– 9.00pm Season April/May to October/November

Joshimath (48km) is the seat of Adi Shankaracharya. It has a temple of Narsingha as well. Nearby is the Shankaracharya Cave, where the saint is believed to have attained enlightenment. Pandukeshwar, the winter seat of Badrinath, is about 20km away. Tip See p294 for information on where to stay in Joshimath. Where to stay and eat

Sarovar Portico Badrinath (Cell: 09310333317, 09582216963; Tariff: `6,500–10,000) is a high-end hotel, with 56 rooms. Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: `8,000–11,000, with meals) offers 20 luxury tents. Hotel Dwarikesh (Cell: 09410465300; Tariff: `2,500) offers 32 rooms and darshan on demand. Narayan Palace (Cell: 09412058824; Tariff: `4,000–5,500) has 46 rooms. GMVN Devlok (Tel: 09568006651; Tariff: `2,100–2,700) is one of the three GMVNs here. For more, see Badrinath Accommodation Listings on p284. ■ Inputs for Kedarnath from Rakesh Shukla & Laxmi Murthy

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Devprayag

Chilianaula

Chamoli

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

pilgrimages

ARCHYUSMAN DUBEY

Tungnath Temple

PANCH KEDAR YATRA kedarnath–madhyamaheshwar–tungnath–kalpeshwar–rudranath ■ Rakesh

Shukla & Laxmi Murthy

anch Kedar, one of the most difficult pilgrimages in India, refers to the five temples of Lord Shiva in the high Himalayas – Kedarnath, Madhyamaheshwar, Tungnath, Rudranath and Kalpeshwar. These are located at some distance from each other. It is popularly believed that the Pandavas, after their victory in the Mahabharata, wished to pay homage to Lord Shiva to atone for gotra hatya – killing their kin, the Kauravas. At Kedarnath, seeing the Pandavas coming, Lord Shiva disguised himself 172 Uttarakhand

as a bull. However, the Pandavas saw through this disguise. Realising that the disguise had not worked, the bull tried to thrust itself into the ground. Bhima tried to hold the bull to prevent it from vanishing. In the struggle that ensued, Shiva got torn into separate parts that, belief persists, manifested themselves at various locations in Kedarkhand. Of these, the five sites that fall in India are referred to as Panch Kedar. orientation

First-timers should hire a guide for the difficult laps, particularly to

PANCH KEDAR YATRA

Rudranath. Also, spend a couple of days acclimatising to the high altitudes. Equip yourself with good walking shoes, woollens, a raincoat, folding umbrella, torch and items like dry fruits, chocolates, cheese and pickles, since the choice of food is limited. Carry a first-aid kit and all the medicines you need for the entire duration. A sleeping bag is useful.

MADHYAMAHESHWAR

According to legend, Shiva’s torso manifested at Madhyamaheshwar Temple. In the Kedarkhand of the Skanda Purana, the mahatmya, or significance, of Shri Madhya maheshwar is mentioned. The shrine of Madhyamaheshwar is reached by a 42-km/ 5-day trek via Uniana, Gaundhar and Bantoli.

THE YATRA

From Kedarnath in the west to Kal peshwar in the east, the approach to the Panch Kedars is along steep mountain roads and may take several hours. After reaching each roadhead, at least a day or more of trekking is involved, making each site a separate pilgrimage in itself. Tungnath, the highest of the Panch Kedars, is the easiest to reach. Rudranath, traversing the heights of Panar or Nayla Pass is the most difficult. The swayambhu Shivalingas at the five temples remain in their respective sanctums. During winter, the swayambhu idols at Kedarnath and Madhyamaheshwar are taken to Okhimath in a yatra. An idol representing Tungnath is taken to Makkumath and one representing Rudranath to Gopeshwar. Kalpeshwar is at a lower altitude and remains open year-round.

KEDARNATH The first destination in the Panch Kedar Yatra, Kedarnath is also one of the Char Dhams (see p162). Here, pilgrims offer butter and ghee to the Jyotirlinga and embrace it, touching it with their forehead.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go The Panch Kedar temples (except Kalpeshwar) remain closed during winter. They are generally open after Baisakh around April, and close sometime in November, generally around Diwali. They are always open from May–September. Exact dates for each temple must be ascertained from the GMVN in Rishikesh Tourist offices ● GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783/ 93 ● GMVN Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel: 01334-228686, 226430 ● GMVN Dehradun Tel: 0135-2747817/ 9308 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in

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Trek highlights

On Day 1 of the trek, at Ransi village, visit the village temple devoted to Maa Rakeshwari Devi. It is a simple structure. You will reach the unimposing Madhyamaheshwar Temple (11,450ft) on Day 2 of your trek. In the sanctum sanctorum is the representation of the torso of Shiva, and also a brass Nandi bull. On Day 3, do the 1-hour climb up the ridge leading above the temple to the shrine with a little bell, dedicated to the buddha, or old, Madhyamaheshwar. Where to stay

In Okhimath, 34km before Madhya maheshwar, the GMVN Tourist Rest House (Cell: 09568006692; Kedarnath Temple

Tariff: `1,344) has an excellent location. The facility is clean and well-kept. Hanumant Inn & Resort (Cell: 09968096179; Tariff: `1,000– 1,500), near Saari Bend, offers rooms and cottages. In Uniana, 20km before Madhya maheshwar, Pintoo Lodge (Tariff: `250) is the only accommodation option here. There are three basic rooms. Sleeping bags are recommended. The common toilet is rudimentary, with no running water. The proprietor cooks meals on request. After Okhimath, if you make it to Ransi (17km before Madhyamaheshwar) early, there are two lodges available. Chaukhamba Hotel (Tariff: `200–350) has five rooms, each of which can accommodate upto 3–4 persons. There is a basic Indian-style common toilet. Food is available. Bhatt Hotel has the same facilities. In Madhyamaheshwar, Mandir Samiti (`200) has four rooms which can accommodate four persons each. No food is available here, and there are only common toilets. There are two rooms each at Chaukhamba Hotel (`250) and Nandikund Hotel (`250). Basic meals are available at both. Neither has toilets.

TUNGNATH

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Legend has it that the arms of Shiva appeared in Tungnath after he took the form of a bull. According to the Skanda Purana, Shiva tells Parvati that whoever has darshan and seeks the blessings of Tungnath attains spiritual salvation. The Tungnath shrine is an easy 3-km/ 3-hour climb from

PANCH KEDAR YATRA MOHIT SATYANAND

Alpine meadows surround the Madhyamaheshwar Temple

Chopta. For a full account of the trek, see p232 in the Trekking Section.

Trek highlights At the Tungnath Temple (12,000ft), an embedded dark rock represents the swayambhu bhuja – the arm of the Shiva. The entire Shiva family is arrayed here – Panch Kedar, Parvati, Kal Bhairav and Parvati-Shiva. At the rear are Adi Shankaracharya and Lakshmi-Vishnu. At the top are the Virat form of Shiva and the Narsingh avatar. The outer parikrama has Parvati, Ganesh, Panch Pandav, Bhairav, Bhootnath and a sphatikling. Where to stay

In Chopta, 2.5km before Tungnath, there are quite a few good places to

stay while doing the yatra. Hotel Snow View (Cell: 09675398273, 07351637172; Tariff: `1,200–2,000) in Pothibasa, Akashdeep Resort (Cell: 09627276450; Tariff: `1,200– 1,800) in Tala, and Neelkanth Hotel (Cell: 09830561283, 07500240789) in the main market have restaurants. Chauhan Guest House (Cell: 08449740339; Tariff: `1,500) offers basic accommodation. For an outdoorsy stay, Pristine Peaks Eco Camp (Cell: 08750878650; Tariff: `1,999 per person, with meals) in Patpadiya and Chandrika Camp (Cell: 09690450355, 09410123945; Tariff: `1,400 per person, with meals) near Hanuman Temple, are good options. Most of the hotels in Chopta organise trekking and other adventure activities. Uttarakhand 175

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But the best options are in Dugalbitta, 2km to the west of Chopta. Magpie Camp Eco Tourist Village (Cell: 09897766007; Tariff: `3,000 per person, with meals) has 14 tents. They will escort you up to Tungnath, Chandrashila and other trekking points. Mayadeep Herbal Resort (Cell: 09818144959; Tariff: `1,000–2,500) has comfortable rooms and a restaurant. On request, they organise treks to Deoriya Tal. Alpine Adventure Camp (Cell: 0847614402; Tariff: `1,800 per person, with two meals) here has eight tents and organises treks and guides. In Tungnath There are four rooms in Kali Kamli Dharamshala (Rishikesh Tel: 01352430006, Kolkata Tel: 033-22318181); Kalpeshwar Temple

four rooms in Ganesh Hotel; four rooms in Chandrashila Hotel; two rooms in Devlok Hotel; and two dingy rooms in Monal Hotel. Bedding is provided. Only Kali Kamli has common toilets.

KALPESHWAR Legend has it that the matted locks of Shiva appeared at Kalpeshwar. According to the Skanda Purana, Shiva tells Parvati that whoever performs puja here is relieved of all his sins from the present and past lives. The Kalpeshwar Temple (7,000ft) is the lowest one of the Panch Kedars, and the only that is open year round. It is reached by a 1-day trek from Helang.

Trek highlights About 2km away from Devgaon in Badginda Village, visit the Dhyan Badri Temple. The Kalpeshwar Temple is 45 minutes away. One enters through a stone arch/ gate, flanked by a black Nandi bull. The main temple has the swayambhu jata, or locks of Shiva, in the shape of a protruding rock. A few steps beyond the temple, a small stream of water emerges out of the rock and collects in a rocky depression to form the Amrit Kund. ◆ Temple timings Opens around 7.00am Aarti timings 6.00–7.00pm Where to stay

In Helang, 12km before Kalpeshwar, there are two options – Triveni Lodge (Tariff: `300–500; six rooms) and Rainbow Lodge (Tariff: `200–500; 176 Uttarakhand

Dwarahat

Joshimath

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Lansdowne

pilgrimages

4–5 rooms). If you can, avoid staying in Helang and move on to Devgaon. Pathik Tourist Lodge (Tariff: `150– 250) is recommended. There is a common toilet, with hot water for bathing provided on request. Or, stay at the GMVN in Pipalkoti (Tel: 01372266237, Cell: 09568006681; Tariff: `1,680–3,540), which has dorms and deluxe and AC rooms. In Kalpeshwar, there are two rooms adjacent to the temple, where disciples of the priest usually stay. Pilgrims can also stay in these rooms (rudimentary, no toilet), and pay a small sum as donation.

RUDRANATH Legend has it that the face of Shiva appeared at Rudranath. In the Skanda Purana, Mahadev tells Parvati that there is a third tirth which is the best of all pilgrimages. Pilgrims who come to this difficult tirth are said to be truly blessed, and all their wishes granted. The five-day trek to Rudranath is the most difficult of the five. The lodges en route function only when the temple is open. Find out the exact dates from the GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 01372252468) at Gopeshwar.

Trek highlights The Rudranath Temple is a small hut-like structure made of stones in

continuation of a natural cave. Inside is the swayambhu Shivalinga representing the face of Shiva. The peaks of the Banderpoonch and the Nanda Devi Range are to the right of the temple. To the extreme left are six smaller temples with Shivalingas, and a temple with several tiers of Shivalingas with burning diyas. Where to stay

In Dumak, 20km before Rudranath, Bhandari Lodge (Tariff: `50–70 per bed; `300 per room if vacant with no other traveller) is the only option, with three rooms with six beds each. Toilet is a 100m away. In Panar, 8km before Rudranath, about 20 persons can stay in the abandoned army barrack here (free). Meals are available in season. In Rudranath, there are five dormitory lodges with wooden floors (no cots). Two of these belong to Avtar Singh Bhandari (four rooms for 50 persons) and Dilwar Singh Bhandari (three rooms for 30 persons). The Mandir Samiti has rooms run by the Bhandari family. Quilts (`30), blankets (`20) and meals (`50 per head) are available. For more, see Accommodation Listings on p286 (Chopta), pp289–90 (Dugalbitta), p299 (Pipalkoti) and pp298–99 (Okhimath). ■

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Haridwar

Golu Devta Temple

Chopta

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pilgrimages

Snow-covered peaks form the backdrop of the holy Hemkund Lake

GettyImages

HEMKUND SAHIB TAPASTHAN: WHERE THE GURU MEDITATED ■ Smita Choudhary & Shubhranshu Choudhary

emkund Sahib, the highest gurudwara in the world, is also the only one connected with the previous birth of a Sikh guru. At a height of 14,202ft, this crystal-clear lake is reached after an arduous trek, which has been attracting pilgrims in increasing numbers. Traditionally a holy place for local Hindus, known as Laxman Lokpal, a small temple to Laxman still exists adjacent to the gurudwara. Around such timeless harmony, beautiful Brahma Kamal flowers 182 Uttarakhand

proliferate abundantly, almost erupting out of the rocks surrounding the lake and contributing greatly to the beauty of the setting. Many devotees make the detour for a darshan of the neighbouring Valley of Flowers too (see p238). Mist drifts in and out of this high sanctuary, by turns veiling its enduring mystique and revealing, with astonishing clarity, a fellowship of resilient and grateful devotees. A BRIEF HISTORY

According to Bachitra Naatak, an autobiographical account of Guru

HEMKUND SAHIB

Gobind Singh, it was at Hemkund that he meditated in his previous birth. The Sikh historian-poet Bhai Santokh Singh (1787–1843) provided a description of the tapasthan (where the guru meditated) in a story called ‘Dushtadaman’ (destruction of evil). Over time, many eminent historians, theologians and poets described Hemkund Sahib in their writings. But the first person to actually discover the location was Sant Sohan Singh, a retired granthi (one who has studied the Granth Sahib) from the army. In 1934, he visited the spot and returned, determined to set up a gurudwara there. Along with Hawaldar Baba Modan Singh, he built a 10sq ft-room and installed a copy of the Guru Granth Sahib there. In the 1960s, the hawaldar established a seven-member organisation called the Gurudwara Shri Hemkund Sahib Management Trust. It took over the shrine’s manage ment and established gurudwaras along the way, in Haridwar, Rishikesh, Srinagar, Joshimath, Govindghat and Ghangaria. Traditionally, the Bengal Sappers clear the snow on the way to the shrine every year, as Hawaldar Baba Modan Singh belonged to this regiment of the Indian Army. It generally takes the Sappers about a month to clear the road from Govindghat to Hemkund Sahib. No one lives in Hemkund Sahib from October to May. The Shri Guru Granth Sahib is kept safely at Sach Khand during the winters. Every year Nihang Sikhs from the Damdami Taksal sect go to the top

of each of the seven sacred hills, which surround Hemkund Sahib, and put up a flag called Nishan Sahib. orientation

Govindghat is the last stop on the motorway. Hemkund Sahib is an 18-km trek (one-way) from here. A very fit person can undertake the return journey on pony in one day, but most trekkers need to halt overnight en route. Pilgrims normally stop for the night at Ghan gharia (see Where to Stay on p185). Devotees set off early in the mor ning from Ghangaria and leave Hemkund Sahib after the last ardaas (prayer) at 2.00pm. At Govindghat, vehicles must be parked at a designated parking

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Before the monsoon, especially in June. The region is covered in snow from October to May Tourist offices ● GMVN Joshimath Tel: 01389-222226, 222118 Cell: 09568006667-68 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code Ghangaria 01381

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place, with a registered parking lot operator. Luggage has to be carried on ponies or porters for stay at Ghangaria. Ponies and porters are available for hire at Govindghat. Bookings are done at the Union Office of the Eco Development Centre, Bhyundar, next to the gurudwara in Govindghat. Tip This is a strenuous trek. Pilgrims do take along very old family members and infants, but proper preparation is essential as the trail is very steep and cold

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

As a night halt is not possible in Hemkund Sahib, pilgrims can enjoy the spiritual ambience of the gurudwara and the scenic beauty of its setting as a day trip from Ghangaria. The famous Valley of Flowers National Park (the brief flowering season is from mid-July to mid-August, see p238 for a full account of the trek) is 3km from Ghangaria, and can be visited if you factoran extra day into the pilgrimage to Hemkund.

Gurudwara Shri Hemkund Sahib UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

GETTING THERE Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (307km/ 9.5hrs). Taxi to Govindghat costs `7,000–7,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Rishikesh (289km/ 9hrs), though Haridwar, 25km south, is better connected. Taxi to Govindghat costs `7,000–7,500 from Rishikesh Road Hemkund Sahib is an 18-km trek from Govindghat on NH34 and NH7. From Delhi, follow NH7 (Badrinath Highway) to Govindghat via Modinagar, Meerut Bypass, Roorkee, Haridwar, Rishikesh, Rudraprayag (break journey), Karnaprayag, Chamoli, Joshimath and Vishnuprayag. Arrive at Joshimath before 4.00pm, else you will have to spend the night here till the gate on NH7 is reopened at 6.00am the next morning See Route Planner on pp24–25.

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The journey to Hemkund Sahib is difficult. Steps are often cut in the snow to make way in these heights. It snows even in September. The last 5-km stretch is very steep. Surmounting difficulties, devotees are filled with a sense of achieve ment when they reach the gurudwara. And when the flowers bloom, Hemkund Sahib looks like heaven. The architecture of Hemkund Sahib is striking. Its roof is in the shape of an inverted lotus flower, the urdha kamal, which is an important image in the Granth Sahib. It represents the yet unblossomed soul of man, which opens up to enlightenment on maturity. This design is also appropriate for withstanding the snow and ice of the region’s winters. The gurudwara’s pentagonal shape is also significant in Sikh lore. Before entering the shrine, many pilgrims have an ishnan (holy dip) in the lake’s cold waters and recite

HEMKUND SAHIB TRIBHUVAN TIWARI

Pilgrims partake of the langar en route to Sri Hemkund

the holy Japji Sahib. Devotees bring holy water from the sarovar at Golden Temple in Amritsar and add it to the Hemkund Lake, and vice versa. Before entering the gurudwara, devotees undertake a parikrama (circumambulation) of the shrine. The granthi recites the hukumnamah (comma ndm ents from the holy book) after ardaas. And then he tells the story of Hemkund Sahib, as described in Bachitra Naatak. There are three ardaas in Hemkund Sahib (10.00am, noon and 2.00pm). After each ardaas, pilgrims can partake of kada prasad (made with flour, ghee and sugar). Sookha prasad (dry prasad offered in gurudwaras) is also distributed. For a siropa (the holy scarf), an offering of `100 and upwards has to be made.

Timings 8.00am–4.00pm Season 1 June–5 October; sometimes, opening is delayed and closing advanced because of excessive snow

WHERE TO STAY

En route As an overnight stay is not possible in Hemkund Sahib, yatris make their last night halt at Ghangaria, 5km away. The Shri Hemkund Sahib Management Trust oversees many gurudwaras on the route from Rishikesh where accom modation is provided for yatris. Inform the trust about your programme beforehand as this helps them prepare for the arrival of jathas (groups). The gurudwaras also provide information to yatris. The numbers are – Haridwar Tel: Uttarakhand 185

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Campsite at Ghangaria

01334-227749; Rishikesh Tel: 01352430229; Srinagar Tel: 01346252203; Joshimath Tel: 01389222121; Govindghat Cell: 089913 22581; and Ghangaria Cell: 08991322555. In Govindghat Mehta Lodge, Him Sarovar and Seven Shring are the prominent hotels here. The linen and bedding is very basic, and cleanliness depends upon the crowds. The Govindghat Gurudwara can accommodate about 2,500 people. Ganga Resort (Cell: 09411183991, 09411768258; Tariff: `4,000–7,000, with two meals) is an

ideal place to stay here. They only serve organic food. In Ghangaria Ghangaria Camp Resort (Cell: 07579208060, 08449812304; Tariff: `6,200–6,800, with meals), opposite the helipad, has 10 luxury tents and hot baths. Sri Nanda Lokpal Palace (Cell: 09412909307; Tariff: `3,250– 6,850, with two meals) has a restaurant and also organises treks around here. GMVN’s Ghangaria Tourist Rest House (Cell: 070602 11150; Tariff: `2,240) has eight rooms, four huts and two dorms. The gurudwara here can also accommodate yatris. They have arrangements to feed pilgrims. For more, see Ghangaria Accommodation Listings on p290. WHERE TO EAT

The free langar at gurudwaras in Govindghat and Ghangaria starts at 3.00am and goes on for as long as there are pilgrims who need food. In Hemkund Sahib, khichdi and tea is provided as langar (8.00am–4.00pm). Pilgrims can receive sweet pinni prasad (`20) at the Govindghat Gurudwara. There are many dhabas serving snacks and basic meals on the trek to Hemkund Sahib. ■

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Bugyal

Chamoli

Tehri Lake

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

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pilgrimages

Shrines at the ancient Jageshwar Temple Complex

JS Adhikari

JAGESHWAR SHIVA’S WINTER escape ■ mitali saran & Rachna Subramanian

et in an expanse of untouched deodar forest along the Jata Ganga, this medieval centre of Lakula Shaivism, considered to be one of the most sacred tirthas in the Kumaon region, has a breathtaking backdrop of snow-capped mountains and is said to represent the eighth of the 12 jyotirlingas in India. This surprisingly small complex holds an incredibly rich heritage, bursting with 124 shrines dating from the 5th to the 18th centuries. During the 4th and 5th centuries CE, when the 188 Uttarakhand

Gupta emperors ruled a large part of India, the Kumaon Hills were ruled by an independent dynasty of Katyuri kings, who initiated construction of the temple com plex. The building activity conti nued up to the Chand period (15th to 18th century). Of the 400 Shiva temples built in this period, only 124 remain standing and are now under renovation by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Thousands of devotees descend in Jageshwar during Shivratri in March–April and for the Sravan Mela from mid-July to mid-August.

JAGESHWAR

Pilgrims take a dip in the Brahmakund at these times. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Mahamrityunjaya Temple Complex You must begin with the three main shrines of Jageshwar, Pushtidevi and Mahamrityunjaya. The oldest of the remaining temples, the Mahamrityunjaya Temple is where the main puja takes place. The presiding deity is offered his meal of rice, dal and vegetables at 10.00am; the last aarti is at around 7.00pm in summer and 6.00pm in winter. Most of the other temples in the parikrama are Shiva temples and are built in the simple Nagara style with stone lingas. There are other temples dedicated to Surya, the sun god, to Navadurga (nine manifestations of Goddess Durga) and Kalika. All the remaining surviving idols from these temples are now housed in the ASI museum. Large areas of the outer façades, which once had intricately carved panels depicting various gods and goddesses and their patrons, are now bare. Legend has it that Shiva came down to Jageshwar to escape the severe winter of Mount Kailash. To this day, there is a ritual covering of the jyotirlinga with kilos of ghee on the first day of Magh to protect it from the extreme cold.

Kuber Group of Temples A little further up, on the sunnier side of the hill, lies the Kuber group of temples. This temple group

derives its name from the topmost temple of Kuber, or Dhanesa. It enshrines a rare ekmukha linga, which is ascribed to 10 CE. The second temple, a little lower down, once housed an ashtbhuja (eight-armed) image of Durga, while the third temple in the vicinity is dated a little later and was home to a four-armed image of Shiva. About 200m away, the Brahmakund spring has arrangements for pilgrims to bathe. Legend says there is an underground confluence of the Jata and Saryu Gangas at the ancient ghat of Jageshwar, emerging from underneath to meet the Kali Ganga and the Bhagirathi at Brahmakund.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go The temples can be visited all year round, but winter is freezing Tourist offices ● KMVN Jagnath TRH, Jageshwar Tel: 05962-263028; Cell: 07534001706 ● KMVN Holiday Home, Mall Road, Almora Tel: 05962-230250 ● KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 23319835 W kmvn.gov.in STD code 05962

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Vridha Jageshwar Temple

This temple is supposed to have been built where Shiva stopped by on his way to Jageshwar. The 3-km trek to the temple is steep and you need to be fit if you want to attempt it.

Dandeshwar Temple Complex At this temple complex, 2km back towards Almora, the main temple enshrines a large natural rock as a linga. That’s what the ASI says. The local guide at the temple has a more colourful tale to tell. It is believed that some 18,000 rishis used to meditate at this site, which was known as Dwarkaban. Their wives,

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

GETTING THERE Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (160km/ 6hrs) Taxi to Jageshwar costs about `3,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (120km/ 5.5hrs). A taxi to Jageshwar costs `2,000–2,500, one way Road From Delhi, follow the route till Almora via Rampur on NH24 and Bhowali on NH9. From Almora, drive east to Artola via Chitai, Barechhina and Panuanaula. Here, turn left to Jageshwar, 3km away via Dandeshwar Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 01122141611) runs several bus services between Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar and Almora. A taxi to Jageshwar from Almora costs `1,500 approx See Route Planner on pp92–93.

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who stayed close by, complained that Shiva had appeared here in the buff. On his third appearance, the rishis captured Shiva and the women punished him by pinning him down and cursed him. A petrified Shiva turned into rock. Hence the reclining rock form. The temple complex is said to have grown around that site. Believed to date back to the 10th century, the site was much vandal ised till the ASI renovated the complex in 1999. Don’t miss the four-faced linga here. Locally, the faces are claimed to represent Brahma. There is another large linga here, inlaid with figures of nume rous gods and goddesses in a spiral row starting from the base. The figurines are now mostly defaced. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

For long, Jageshwar’s only comfortable stay option was the KMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 05962263028; Tariff: `1,760–2,766), near Jagnath temple. Now, the best hotel here is the Van Serai Forest Lodge (Cell: 09266519519; Tariff: `5,500– 6,500, with meals), an excel-lent base for an extended study of the temples. Jageshwar Jungle Lodge (Cell: 09818069440; Tariff: `2,000) and The Green Village Eco Resort (Tel: 263001; Tariff: `5,000–18,000) are some other stay options. It is recommended that you dine at your hotel. A couple of dhabas can also be found close to the temples. For more, see Jageshwar Accommodation Listings on pp309–10. ■

Wildlife

wildlife

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board infoutdb-uk@nic.in

192 Uttarakhand

91- 135- 2559898, 2559987

http://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/

CORBETT NATIONAL PARK

An elephant flings mud on to its back

Photographs by TRIBHUVAN TIWARI

CORBETT NATIONAL PARK FIRST AMONGst EQUALS â&#x2013; ANITA

ROY

estled in the foothills of the Himalayas, Corbett Tiger Reserve lies in the hilly districts of Nainital, Almora and Pauri Garhwal. At present, the Tiger Reserve covers an area of 1,318.54sq km and includes within it the Corbett National Park (520.82sq km), Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary (301.18sq km) and Kalagarh Reserve Forest (496.54sq km). Hailey National Park, as the park was known at its conception, covered 325sq km, and Major James E Corbett was one of the consultants in deci-

ding its boundaries. His key role in both creating the park and contributing to the preservation of its unique wildlife was formalised when the park was renamed in his honour in 1957, two years after his death. In 1973, Corbett was the first sancÂtuary to come under Project Tiger. The chaurs, (open, grassy pastures) make up around onetenth of the core area of the national park and make ideal grazing land for its wild elephants. The park is home to around 580 bird species, 50 mammals and at least 25 reptile species, including the Indian python, cobra and krait. Uttarakhand 193

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ORIENTATION

The park is bisected by the Ramganga River, running broadly south– southwest, and the Kosi River, plus their many tributaries. It also encompasses the Kalagarh Dam, where the Ramganga creates a large reservoir – a great attraction for the many species of migratory birds, such as greylag and bar-headed geese, sandpipers and snipe that flock here during the winter months. The rivers are populated with mahseer and other fish, which support a variety of

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go Between mid-November and April. Winter can be very cold. The park closes for the monsoons, from mid-June to mid-November. However, most hotels outside the park stay open during this period Tourist offices l Director, Corbett Tiger Reserve Ramnagar - 244715, District Nainital Tel: 05947-253977 Park Reception Tel: 251489 W corbettonline.uk.gov.in l KMVN Oak Park House, Nainital Tel: 05942-236356, 236209 l KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23712246, 23319835 STD code 05947

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aquatic and water-side life, including gharial and mugger crocodiles. Corbett NP has two main tourist zones. To the southeast, nearest to Ramnagar, is the smaller portion called the Bijrani Range (entry through Amdanda Gate). This area is preferred for day-visits, and makes for excellent wildlife tracking by jeep. Elephant rides commence from the Bijrani Forest Rest House (FRH) in the morning or afternoon, subject to availability. The other, much larger range is collectively referred to as Dhikala. Entry here is through Dhangarhi Gate and is restricted to those who have a permit to stay overnight in any one of the five FRHs within this section of the park – Dhikala being the largest and most popular. Elephant rides are also available here. Seats are limited to a maximum of four people per elephant. The main entry gates to the park are as follows: Amdanda Gate, 3km from Ramnagar; southeast of the Tiger Reserve. Entry for Bijrani and Malani FRHs. Both available for overnight stay, though this zone is preferred for day visits. Dhangarhi Gate, 20km from Ram nagar on the Ranikhet Road; southeast of the Tiger Reserve. Entry for Sultan, Gairal, Sarapduli, Khinnanauli or Dhikala FRHs. You can only enter this zone if you have a permit to stay overnight in any of the FRHs. Exception: Canters (15-seaters) operated by the Forest Department for day visits. Khara Gate, 20km from Ramnagar on the Ramnagar-Kotdwar Road;

CORBETT NATIONAL PARK

A herd of spotted deer in the park

south of the Tiger Reserve. Day visits and overnight stays in Jhirna FRH. Tip In Jhirna and Bijrani only 30 jeeps (or high-clearance vehicles) are allowed in either the morning or afternoon slot. Timings tend to differ for summer and winter. Durgadevi Gate, 30km from Ramnagar, on the northeast boundary of the Tiger Reserve. Entry for Lohachaur and Kanda FRHs. Tip This is the only zone where multi-day elephant safaris are permitted. One can fish upstream of Domunda Bridge (11km from Durgadevi Gate) on the Ramganga River with permits, which are available on spots on the river (since different beats are privately managed). Vatanvasa Gate, approximately 40km from Kotdwar; northwest of

the Tiger Reserve. Entry for Halduparao FRH in the Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary. Teria Gate, for entry into Kanda FRH from Kotdwar side. In order to stay at any of the rest houses inside the park, you will need to make your reservation at the main Reception Centre in Ramnagar (Tel: 05947-251489) and obtain your permit here before entering the park. For those unable to get a booking in these FRHs, there are a variety of accommodation options lining the road north of Ramnagar along the park’s eastern edge. Visitors are allowed to drive their own vehicles but must be accompanied by an official guide, or can hire jeeps at the gate. Walking is strictly prohibited. You’ll need to obtain a clearance Uttarakhand 195

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certificate from your guide, which should be shown at the gate as you exit. Conducted bus tours are also available at Bijrani for 4–5 hours, and at Dhikala for a full day. Binoculars

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (70km/ 2.5hrs) Taxi to Corbett NP costs `1,200–2,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Ramnagar (19km/ 30mins), which has one connection to Delhi – the Ranikhet Express that reaches Ramnagar at 5.00am. Taxis charge `800–1,000 approx from Ramnagar to, say, Corbett Riverside Resort near Garjia. Fares will vary depending on your place of stay Road From Delhi, take NH24 and NH9 to Moradabad via the Hapur Bypass, Gajraula, Joya and Pilkhua. After Pilkhua, take the exit onto the Moradabad Bypass. At the end of the bypass, take the exit left for Corbett NP. Cross the bridge over the Ramganga and turn left on Kashipur Road. Cross River Dehla and follow the road that skirts the reserve, crossing Kashipur and Ramnagar before reaching the Amdanda, Garjia and Dhangarhi gates. The last is the main entrance, 19km from Ramnagar Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22141611) runs daily buses between Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar and Ramnagar between 5.30am and 5.45pm See Route Planner on p192.

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can be hired for `100–200 per day, but they are of poor quality. Tip It is better to carry your own set of binoculars. u Park entry Indians and SAARC nationals `100; Foreigners `450 (`250–500 for overnight stay) Park timings 7.00–9.00am, 3.00–5.00pm Vehicle entry fee Indians `250; Foreigners `500 Elephant ride fee (2hrs approx) Indians and SAARC nationals `300; Foreigners `1,000 Cameras Private free; commercial video cameras `500–15,000 THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The best time of year for tigerspotting is April to mid-June. If birding is more your thing, then mid-December to end March is when most migratory birds make an appearance.

Tiger spotting Travelling inside the park by jeep offers you the best chance of seeing a tiger, since you are able to cover a much wider area in the time available. Your guide is also wellversed in listening for warning cries and knowing the habits of the animal.

Elephant rides There is nothing quite like sitting on an elephant’s back with nothing – no steel, no wheels, no glass, no engine – between you and one of nature’s most magnificent carnivores. Deer sightings are also more frequent, closer and longer than you would have by car.

Chopta

Almora

Jim Corbett National Park

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Birding

The park is home to over 580 species of avifauna and birdwatchers can have a field day spotting some of its more unusual denizens such as bright-headed cisticola and red avadavat. The Pocket Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent by Richard Grimmett, Carol Inskipp and Tim Inskipp comes in handy and has excellent illustrations for easy identification. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The first option of the die-hard wildlife enthusiast will be the FRHs located in the park. Booking is done online (see Fast Facts on p194). The next best choice are the many private resorts on the periphery of the park. Corbett’s main camp, the Dhikala Forest Lodge (Tel: 05947-251489; Tariff: `1,000–2,500, dorm bed `200) overlooks the Ramganga reservoir. It has a variety of accommodation such as bunk beds in the log huts, to private bungalows and cabins. Wholesome food is available in the restaurant. Bijrani FRH (Tel: 251489; Tariff: `1,250–2,000) has seven rooms and a log hut. It has a basic restaurant. Next to the FRH is a large tree with a viewing platform. Sarapduli FRH (Tel: 251489; Tariff: `2,000, dorm bed `250) is further into the park, on the

road from Dhangarhi Gate towards Dhikala. You’ll need your own vehicle to stay here, and also make your own food arrangements when you book. Tip Reservations for all the FRHs at Corbett can be done through the Main Reception office of Corbett National Park at Ramnagar (Tel: 05947-251489, 253977). Amongst the private resorts, The Taj Gateway Resort (Tel: 266600, Cell: 09759363344; Tariff: `8,000– 27,200) is situated by the River Kosi. The rooms are well maintained, and there’s a swimming pool and a spa. Corbett Ramganga Resort (Cell: 09310510582, 09810201335; Tariff: `6,500–11,000, with meals) has 30 rooms on the banks of the Ramganga River. The resort arranges rockclimbing and rappelling. Corbett Riverside Resort (Delhi Tel: 011-29556688/ 1191, Cell: 0972 01043464-5, 07455003331-2; Tariff: `6,000–14,300, with two meals), overlooking the Kosi River, has 39 rooms and a restaurant. It arranges jungle and horse safaris and rafting on the Kosi in the monsoon. Situated on the eastern fringe of Corbett, Camp Riverwild (Tel: 287 877; Tariff: `4,900) offers six cottages overlooking the Kosi River. For more, see Corbett Accommodation Listings on pp308–09. ■

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Nainital

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Almora

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An array of species can be spotted at Nanda Devi National Park

Nanda Devi National Park IN PARVATI’S HOME ■

Aniruddha Mookerjee

eclared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, the Nanda Devi Peak has been revered for thousands of years as a manifestation of Lord Shiva’s wife, Parvati, whose father is Dunagiri or Dronagiri. Every 12 years, the Nanda Devi idol is taken in a procession to what’s believed to be her home at the base of Trishul in a journey fraught with risks. Its inaccessibility gave Nanda Devi the aura of a forbidden territory, an untouched and unseen holy space. The first explorers to step inside the

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inner sanctuary were Eric Shipton and HW Tilman, who discovered a route up the Upper Rishi Ganga Gorge in 1934. Two years later, Tilman and NE Odell made the first ascent of Nanda Devi. Since then, many have attempted to climb this peak with varying degrees of success. It was the account of Tilman and Shipton that led to the establishment of a game sanctuary called the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in 1939. By the late 1960s and early 1970s, the sanctuary had become so popular that more than 4,000 people were entering the park annually. Villagers were also frequent visitors

Nanda Devi National Park

to the park. Alarmed by the piling garbage and the ecological damage, the government banned the entry of people into the park in 1982, after it was declared a National Park. Since then only a few expeditions have managed to go up to the base camp or climb the peak. In 2004, the government partially opened the park to trekkers, who can now go up to the alpine meadows of Dharansi and Debrugheta. Rainee village was the launch pad of the famous Chipko Movement, wherein Gaura Devi led the women of her village against the timber contractors based in the plains, by hugging the trees that the government had marked out to be cut. In Tolma Village, you can easily spot musk deer, black bear, blue sheep, tahr, goral and sometimes even the snow leopard. Himalayan weasels and yellow-throated martens are common as are monal pheasants. There are at least a 100 species of high-altitude birds to be seen here. Of course, only those who are fit enough to trek can enjoy this amazing piece of earth, through fir, rhododendron and juniper forests.

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fast facts When to go Summer is the time to trek or walk around the park. October and November are best for spotting wildlife Tourist offices ● DFO, Nanda Devi National Park Joshimath. Tel: 01389-222179 Cell: 09897557309, 09410300330 ● GMVN Joshimath. Cell: 09568006667-68 Tel: 01389-222226, 222118 ● GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code Joshimath 01389

THINGS TO see and do

The mountains and peaks in the park include Dunagiri (7,066m), Changabang (6,864m), Nanda Devi East (7,434m), Nanda Devi West (the highest peak entirely within India, at 7,630m) and Trishul (7,120m). Lata and Tolma villages serve as the entry points to the Uttarakhand 203

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park; the climb from Tolma is much easier than from Lata. Dharansi and Debrugheta, located to the northwest of the park, are the points up to where you can trek; Dharansi is the last point where you can camp. To enter the park, you have to first get a permit from the DFO at Joshimath (see ‘Fast Facts’ on previous page). For treks up to Jhandidhar, there is a one-time eco-tourism fee of `60 per person for seven days. There’s a `20 per day, per head housekeeping fee, for accompanying porters, guides and staff. Only groups of six persons per day, not

including accompanying staff, are allowed into the park. All provisions including kerosene must be carried, and non-biodegradable refuse has to be brought back. Wood fires are strictly not allowed inside the park. ◆Tent fee `150 per night There is a list of trek operators approved by the Forest Department and, to visit the park, you have to book treks complete with accommodation with one of them. Of these, Eskimo Adventures (ask for Dinesh Uniyal on 01389-222630, 222864; Cell: 09756835647; W eskimoadventure.com) is very reliable. As is Mountain Shepherds (see below). Where to stay and eat

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getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (274km/ 8–9hrs). Taxi to Joshimath costs `7,000–9,000 Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar (276km/ 8–9hrs) Taxi costs `7,000– 8,000 approx Road From Delhi, head for Meerut then catch NH334 for Haridwar via Roorkee. Carry on to Rudraprayag, following NH7 upto Joshimath. From Joshimath, it’s about 1.5hrs to the Lata village road head (25km). Suraithota, another base for the trek is 6km ahead of Lata. A taxi from Joshimath to the Lata road head costs `1,500–2,000. A sharing taxi costs `50 See Route Planner on p203.

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Ecologically sustainable wildlife tourism is best done by local communities and the homestays run by Mountain Shepherds (Tel: 09719316777; Tariff: `1,500–2,000 per person, with meals) in the villages of Lata and Tolma in the Dhauli Ganga Valley in Garhwal are some of the best. Mountain Shepherds is an offshoot of the Nanda Devi Campaign for cultural survival and livelihoods spear headed by the Marcha Bhotia community of this valley. You stay in small, but comfortable, traditional village homes and enjoy some delicious local cuisine prepared by your hosts. Treks are arranged in the deodar and birch forests of the national park with local guides who are familiar with the trails and local flora and fauna. ■

An Indian muntjac at Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary

BINSAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY WALK THE LINE â&#x2013;

NIRAD GROVER

insar Wildlife Sanctuary came into existence in 1988, following a prolonged local movement for its establishment. It is a small protected area, set deep in the Himalayan foothills, enclosing only 47.04 sq km. However, because the sanctuary lies over heavilyforested hill terrain, at altitudes ranging from 3,000 to 8,000ft, the blob-like size belies the ease of movement within it. The forest cover is mostly oak and rhododendron at higher altitudes and chir pine at the lower

levels. In all, 25 types of trees, 24 kinds of bushes and seven varieties of grasses have been documented in the sanctuary. There are nine listed water holes. Binsar is home to leopards, ghoral, kakar, wild boar, monkeys, Himalayan black bears, jackals, Indian red fox and porcupines. Though sightings here are occasional, and usually in ones and twos, one does get to see the odd animal, even the leopard. On the other hand, Binsar ranks high in avifaunal variety and visibility â&#x20AC;&#x201C; around 200 species of resident and migratory birds have been recorded within its boundaries. Uttarakhand 205

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Orientation

There is one entry gate for tourists, at Ayarpani, located on the southeast edge, and only one road, climbing in a north westerly direction to terminate at the Forest Rest House (FRH), near the core zone. As such, unlike many other parks in the plains, jeep or elephant safaris are not the means for exploration here, walking is. The sanctuary is criss-crossed with many trails, some relatively wide and welltrodden, others barely discernible. Hiring a guide is a good idea. Walks lead off from where you are lodged. The standard excursion at Binsar is the 1-km gentle ascent from the TRH to Zero Point, at about 8,200ft, the high centre of Jhandidhar,

– the main hill of Binsar. The tall machaan at this spot affords a 360° view of the sanctuary, and also of the snow ranges. During British times, a flag was hoisted here to let people in the villages around know that the district commissioner was visiting. Tip Book your guide at the TRH or at the sanctuary gate the evening before to ensure his availability ◆ Sanctuary entry Indians `150; Foreigners `650 Timings Sunrise to sunset Vehicle fee `250 Guide fee Half day `600; Full day `1,200 THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Mountain viewing The bang-on and relatively close-up views of the perpetually snow-clad

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206 Uttarakhand

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BINSAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Courtesy MARRY budden estate

Greater Himalayan Mountain Range is truly mind-blowing and a big draw at Binsar. The 300-km lineup stretches all the way into Nepal and includes some of the celebrated giants: Kamet, Mana, Gauri Parbat, Hathi Parbat, Nanda Ghunti, Trishul, Maiktuli, Mrigthuni, Nanda Devi, Panvali Dwar, Nanda Devi East, Nanda Khat, to name a few. The best time to catch the panorama is in March–April or September–October, when the weather is clear. The best views are available from the TRH and Zero Point. WHERE TO STAY

Within the sanctuary KMVN’s Nanda Devi Tourist Rest House (Cell: 07579415101; Tariff: `2,355–4,184, with two meals) occupies prime location in terms of views – astoundingly panoramic from the terrace deck – and as a nodal point for many of the walks; it is also the hangout for guides. The 25 rooms are clean and comfortable. No room service, no electricity; the generator is used only for three hours Tip Snowfall in December–January can block the road above the temple and you may need to trek up 4km from there. The Mary Budden Estate (Cell: 09411316517; Tariff: `27,560, with meals), a luxury and eco-friendly set up, occupies five acres of forested slopes, and comprises two countrystyle, stone-and-timber cottages solely reliant on solar energy and rainwater harvesting. It is operational from September to June.

A gray langur

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fast facts When to go All year round, but the best wildlife sightings are in February–April and October–November Tourist offices ● Wildlife Warden Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, Range Office Ayarpani. Cell: 09412977930 ● KMVN Binsar Cell: 08650002537 W kmvn.gov.in ● Range Office Almora. Tel: 05962-230229 STD code 05962

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar (150km/ 5hrs). Taxi costs `3,500–5,500 Rail Nearest railhead: Kathgodam (126km/ 4.5hrs). A direct taxi to Binsar costs `2,700–4,000 (return). From Almora, a taxi up to the KMVN Tourist Rest House at Binsar, 12km from the gate at Ayarpani, costs `700 Road From Delhi take NH24 and NH9 to Bhowali. From the bazaar, head north along the Bhowali-Bhimtal Road to Khairna. Cross the Kosi for Almora via Sualbari and the state highway to Almora. The district road from Almora to Binsar goes via Ayarpani Bus Uttarakhand Roadways (Tel: 011-22141611) runs two overnight bus services between Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar and Almora. From Almora take a taxi (shared jeep `300 per person; `1,500 for the full taxi to KMVN TRH) if staying within the sanctuary, as there is no public transport service beyond the gate See Route Planner on p206.

About 2km from Ayarpani, Moun tain Resort (Tel: 05962-251011; Cell: 09639989902, 09920882409, 098690 05642; Tariff: `5,450, with two meals),

situated on a 22-acre sprawl, has 18 cottages with attached bathrooms and running water. Mountain Resort also offers accommodation in homestays in five villages deep within the sanctuary. The Village Ways Project (Cell: 08108014999; Tariff: `5,830–7,290 per person for 2N with all meals, guide and porter) offers trained locals as guides and has built eco-friendly guesthouses in five villages in the sanctuary. For more, see Binsar WLS Accommodation Listings on pp306–08. WHERE TO EAT

Dolma’s, near the Kasar Devi Temple, rustles up momos, some greasy chowmein and lemon chicken. In the Binsar area, meals at Khali Estate and Binsar Forest Retreat consist of wholesome dishes – mostly Continental and Indian. Khali is vegetarian and also serves Gujarati food. Non-vegetarian food is commonly available outside. Club Mahindra Binsar Valley Resort lays out a good buffet; but remember to check for timings. Kasaar Jungle Resort has a multi-cuisine menu. At Kalmatia Sangam Himalaya Resort, gourmet Indian and international cuisine is made with organically-grown farm produce. ■

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shutterstock

RAJAJI NATIONAL Park WALK THE LINE â&#x2013; Avtar

Singh

ajaji National Park is composed of three parts: Rajaji, founded in 1948; Motichur, founded in 1936; and Chilla, founded in 1977. Together they are spread over 820sq km and were named Rajaji in 1983. Rajaji NP is situated in the foothills of the Shivalik Range. Most of the land is covered in sal forests. A significant part of the Haridwar Range Reserve Forest runs contiguously with Chillaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern and southeastern boundaries. While this gives animals 210 Uttarakhand

some extra space, it causes jurisdiction headaches, and the park authorities have set in motion a plan to attach the Haridwar Forest to Rajaji. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Rajaji and Motichur lie on the west bank of the Ganga, and Chilla to its east. Motichur is easily accessible from NH34 that also connects Haridwar to Rishikesh, but there are not many chances of spotting animals here as the forests are quite dense.

t narayan

RAJAJI NATIONAL Park

the hotels or the Chilla Range Office. There are only two safaris a day. These last for two hours and leave from the checkpost at 7.00am and 3.00pm during winter months, and 6.00am and 5.00pm in summer. ◆ Safari charges `300 per person

Jeep Safaris

tribhuvan tiwari

Another way to explore the park is via a jeep safari. Each vehicle entering the park, whether it’s private or not, has to be accompanied by a guide. The guide fee is not fixed, so check with your hotel. It’s best to rent jeeps (`1,000– 1,200; approx three hours) from

Snapshots from Rajaji National Park

Therefore, Chilla, which is only 30 minutes from both Haridwar and Rishikesh, is a better option. To get to the Chilla entry gate, cross the Ganga and head left for about 5km towards Chilla. Rajaji’s relative quietness will ensure that you will enjoy your visit here. An elephant safari is the most exciting way to see the park. The park is a birdwatchers haven. u Park entry Indians `150; Foreigners `600 Vehicle fee `250–500 Camera Still free Video Indians `2,500; Foreigners `5,000 Guide `200

Elephant Safari Rajaji’s elephant safaris are available from the Chilla Gate. Check with

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

fast facts When to go 15 November–15 June. Best sightings happen in summer Tourist offices l Director, Rajaji NP 5/ 1 Ansari Marg, Dehradun Tel: 0135-2621669 W rajajinationalpark.co.in l GMVN Rahi Motel, Lalta Rao Bridge Haridwar. Tel: 01334-228686 l Chilla Range Office Cell: 09456578591 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01382

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the park gate. Again, check with your hotel. WHERE TO STAY and eat

Rajaji offers basic, but beautifully located, Forest Rest Houses within the park, and some excellent resorts on the outskirts. There are 10 Forest Rest Houses inside the park, some of which are 100 years old. They are set in the best locations, so the hardcore wildlifer who doesn’t mind roughing it will find these attractive and cheap. Plan on organising your own food though, as the resident chowkidars may not be able to do justice to your palate. You have to book Forest Rest Houses well in advance. Enquiries on availability

and rates can be addressed to the director of the Rajaji NP (see Fast Facts below). Only five – Chilla, Motichur, Kunnao, Rampur and Satyanarayan – have regular electricity supply. All, except Satyanarayan, can be booked at Dehradun. The ones at Chilla (Tariff: `1,500) and Motichur (Tariff: `1,200), though highly recom mended, are basic. There is a GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 01382-266697/ 78; Tariff: `2,790–7,670), close to the main gate at Chilla. It has AC rooms, deluxe rooms and huts. Wild Brook Retreat (Cell: 093148 80887; Tariff: `6,800 per person, with meals) is a great option. It is set on a site overlooking a river. There is no electricity (there are lights,

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212 Uttarakhand

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getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (45 km/ 1.5hrs), connected to Delhi daily by Air India, Jet Airways and SpiceJet flights. Taxi to Rajaji is `2,500 approx Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar Junction (9km/ 30mins), linked daily to Delhi and Dehradun by the Dehradun Shatabdi and many more train services. Haridwar is also connected daily to Mumbai by the Dehradun Express, to Ahmedabad by the Haridwar Mail, and to Agra, Gwalior, Bhubaneswar and Puri by the Kalinga Utkal Express. Taxi to Rajaji NP costs `1,000–1,200 Road Rajaji is accessed from Haridwar, which is connected to Delhi by NH34 via Meerut, Muzaffarnagar and Roorkee. At Haridwar, turn right at Chandi Mora and cross the Ganga to reach the Chilla Gate See Route Planner on p212.

courtesy solar energy). The rooms are spartan but comfy, and there are well-appointed luxury tents with en-suite bathrooms, and cottages. They arrange safaris, birding trips and river rafting.

The Elephant Walk Jungle Lodge and Farm Resort (Tel: 0135-2632800, Cell: 09358120911, 09917955244; Tariff: `15,000–25,000) has eight well-appointed cottages, a swimming pool and one machaan, and offer home-cooked meals, safaris, birdwatching, fishing and games. Leisure Hotels’ Forrest Resort (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: `5,500) offers 20 cottages near the Chilla Gate, nature walks, jeep safaris, rafting, bonfires, birdwatching and much more. Further out towards Haridwar is the riverside Aalia (Cell: 073510 08801-04; Tariff: `9,000–12,000, villas `30,000–40,000)). It has a swimming pool, helipad, restaurant, bar, spa, riverside activity area, game room and jungle safaris. Hotel Regenta Orko’s (Cell: 09927070131; Tariff: ` 7,000– 24,000) is nearer the Motichur side at Haripur Kalan on NH34. It has a restaurant, spa, bar and rooms with Wi-Fi. Within the park, the GMVN will give you basic north Indian fare. Apart from the private hotels, there is the option of eating at Haridwar. Tip Hotels in Haridwar (see p33) are also bases for Rajaji National Park. For more, see Rajaji NP Accommodation Listings on p299–300. 

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Trekking

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THE Pari Tibba RIDGE Circuit

Courtesy uttarakhand tourism

Visitors are treated to breath-taking views while trekking through Pari Tibba

THE Pari Tibba RIDGE Circuit along the rhododendrons ■ Bill

Aitken

Woodstock Bypass-Company Bagh Village (near Barlowganj Jaypee Residency Hotel)

ituated on the eastern flank of Mussoorie, the modest height of Pari Tibba, the ‘Hill of the Fairies’, is compensated by its girdle of oak and deodar forest. Walking this circuit in April is particularly special, with rhododendrons in bloom and the oak in purple new leaf. From October, you get a view of the spectacular Mussoorie winter line. This area has a fabulous 120 species of ferns, ranging from the red-bearded Christmas to the light

Time Level Ideal Season Distance Location

1 day Easy October to April 12–15km East of Landour

green Bible. Their investigation, however, involves the serious risk of leech bites in the rains. Tip Carry water, a stick, sun hat, torch, umbrella and a notebook. THE TREK

From the bypass motor road at Woodstock, the distance to the top will only require two hours if you Uttarakhand 217

Trekking

follow the short forest road to Dhobhi Ghat, the last place for basic refreshments and drinking water. Stick to the climbing forest jeep road to Chamalsari, on the east side of Pari Tibba, and follow its gentle ascent for 2km, where a gap between two peaks is visible. There is a well-trodden village path running down westwards between them. This path is used as a short-cut to Company Bagh. It will take you past some settlements where villagers graze their buffaloes above the village of Khetwala. A straight and even steeper descent to the Arnigad/ Rispana stream will culminate in a pucca canal wall along which you can walk (if you have a head for heights). It leads to Company Bagh. Leave the first peak behind you and look for a trail ascending the second hill to the south (on your right). It is a short and easy climb to the top of Pari Tibba. You may notice the line of large educational campuses

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there TO GET to Woodstock, use the Tehri Bypass (before entering Mussoorie at Kingcraig) or, to do this in reverse, take the road immediately below it to get to Barlowganj. Taxis are available at both the Kulri and Library ends of town RETURN Take a taxi, or walk from Barlowganj to Mussoorie, a steep 4km See Trek Planner on p216.

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that run down the opposite side of the valley, parallel to your ridge route: Wynberg School, Allen School, St George’s College and Oakgrove (Rail ways) School. Using these as constant markers, you can gauge how far down the ridge you have walked. From the top of Pari Tibba, choose your descent as near to the ridge crest line as possible. Stick to the crest line of the ridge, which is pathless for much of the way. Follow, as closely as possible, the descending ridge southward for another 4km through untrammelled oak jungle until you come to the end of the jungle marked by a stone wall and a clearly defined bridle path crossing the ridge. Tip Don’t experiment with shortcuts. Don’t continue further south, or you’ll end up in the Doon Valley! If you look over the stone wall, you can spot Chamalsari Village lower on the eastern slope. Take a sharp right turn and follow the Chamalsari-Company Bagh bridle path, which descends at an easy gradient west, then northwest, to Mussoorie via Company Bagh and Barlowganj. Barlowganj is a steep 1-km climb above Company Bagh. The circuit should take 6–7 hours, if you stop to picnic. In places, note that the dividing ridge between the Song and Rispana rivers is sheer and rocky, and a strong walking stick is recommended. Respect boundary markers. Stick to village right of ways and follow the country code. Always keep your water bottle topped up. Stock up on snacks in Mussoorie Bazaar itself. 

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Ruinsara Tal & Har-Ki-Dun

The gorgeous Ruinsara Tal is a haven for trekkers

Ruinsara Tal & Har-Ki-Dun where the kauravas are worshipped ■ Rakesh

Shukla

Sankhri-Taluka-Seema/ Osla-Ruinsara Tal-Debsu Thach-Har-Ki-Dun-Seema/ Osla-Sankhri-Taluka

his trek moves largely in the Supin River Valley, which is really the upper catchment area of the Tons (a tributary of the Yamuna). The Supin becomes the Tons when it meets the Rupin Nallah, further down at Netwar. The area falls within the Govind National Park, home to 11 mammals and 150 bird species. Take a taxi from Purola to Sankhri, the starting point of the trek. Stay at Swargarohini Palace (Cell: 09410134589; Tariff: `500– 1,200), with 32 rooms and one dorm (five beds). Another option is GMVN’s

Time Level Ideal Season Location

6–10 days Easy to moderate May to mid-Jun, mid- Sep to mid-Oct North of Dehradun towards Purola, District Uttarkashi

Tourist Rest House (Cell: 095680 06623; Tariff: `500), with five rooms. ◆ Sanctuary entry Indians `50; Foreigners `300 per person, per day Tip Guides for Ruinsara Tal and Harki-Dun cost `1,000 approx, pony `600–700 and porter `600 a day DAY ONE

Sankhri-Taluka Distance 10km Time 5–6 Level Easy

hours

Uttarakhand 221

Trekking

Rugged hillsides give way to snow-covered peaks

Walk along the motor road from Sankhri to Taluka along the Supin River. It’s a gentle walk. There are a couple of dhabas at Taluka. The Forest Rest House (Govind WLS Tel: 0137-3223433; Tariff: `750) is a bit primitive, with no geysers or running water. There’s also a GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tariff: `500) at Taluka. A couple of dhabas complete the picture. DAY TWO

Taluka-Seema/ Osla Distance 12km Time 6–8 hours Level Easy–Moderate

There is a short descent to the river followed by level walking on the path heading east along the river for 40 minutes, which leads to a bridge. Cross it and you’ll reach a small meadow. Two paths branch out. Head 222 Uttarakhand

northeast, up the river, keeping the river to your left. Then the path turns east and starts climbing up the mountain. Walk uphill for an hour, then there’s a slight descent to a bridge over a stream, and then another 30 minutes of climbing up. A half hour of walking brings you to the descent for Gangad Village. For Seema/ Osla, recross the river, and walk upriver. You’ll start passing cultivated fields as you near the village. There is a 4-room Forest Rest House (Govind WLS Tel: 01373223433; Tariff: `750, dorm `150) and a GMVN Guest House (Tariff: `500, dorm `170), and a few dhabas. The village is across the river. DAY THREE

Seema/ Osla-Ruinsara Tal Distance 14km Time 8–10 hours Level Moderate

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Start early; you have to recross to the left bank of the Asi Ganga. Heading northeast along the river, you cross a little bridge. Climb along the river for 500m until you come to an intersection. The path branching off towards the northwest will take you across the river and onwards to Harki-Dun. If you are doing Har-ki-Dun on the return, then this is the route you must take. Another 30 minutes of a moderate climb brings you to the Debsu Thach – a convenient drinking water source.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there From Mussoorie to Sankhri, it’s 161km/ 7.5hrs by car (`4,500–5,500). There are no direct buses to Sankhri; you must change at Purola (55km/ 2.5hrs). Taxi from Purola to Sankhri costs `2,000, shared taxi costs `100 Dehra Dun to Purola Highway Transport runs a non-stop bus to Purola (5hrs/ `120–150) via Mussoorie. It stops at Mussoorie’s Kingcraig and Library bus stops between 7.40am and 7.45am and reaches Purola around noon (approx). Roads are poor between Purola and Sankhri For return from Sankhri, take Sumos that ply through the day to Purola, from where you can get taxis or buses for Mussoorie and Dehradun. Opt for the direct Highway Transport bus (dep 1.30pm) from Purola to Dehradun See Trek Planner on p220.

224 Uttarakhand

Look for a path between the trees, going down through the forest to the east of the meadow. The path is tricky and the gradient is steep. However, within 30 minutes, you will be at a picturesque bridge across the Ruinsara Gad, or stream. There is a moderate climb through the forest as the path goes southeast, taking about 45 minutes. A small descent and then it’s easy, level walking with the Ruinsara Gad flow ing below. In some patches, the path has gotten washed away. Take immense care as slipping means about a 100-ft fall on to boulders by the river! A couple of hours of easy, level walking brings you to an open space. Shortly after, the path begins to climb. The gradient is mostly moderate, with a few steep patches. Then the path goes level along the mountainside, traversing a stream. Descending at a gentle gradient for another 30–40 minutes brings you to the level of the river bed. It is marshy, but with a clear path going southeast. About an hour on this track will bring you to a stream. If it is late, camp here and walk up to the lake the following morning. Once across, there is a 30-minute moderate climb followed by level walking on a path for another halfhour. The trail brings you to Ruinsara Tal. Pitch your tents by the lake. To the southwest is Yamuna Kanta, the pass which takes you to Yamunotri, rated a difficult trek. To the east is the majestic Banderpoonch Peak (6,387m). Walking about two hours southeast from the lake brings you to Kyarkoti with the Swargarohini

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Range (6,000m) to the north. The views are spectacular. DAY FOUR

Ruinsara-Debsu Thach Distance 12km Time 5–7 hours Level Easy

This stretch is mostly level or descending. Even if you start at 8.00am, you can reach Debsu Thach latest by about 4.00pm. If you have provisions left, pitch camp here for the night. Or, push on to Seema/ Osla, check in at the rest house and get food from the dhabas. From here, retrace your steps back to Taluka on Day Five, and Sankhri on Day Six, or continue to Har-ki-Dun. DAY FIVE

Debsu Thach-Har-ki-Dun Distance 12km Time 7–8 hours Level Easy–Moderate

From Debsu Thach, head back to the point mentioned earlier on Day Three, from where the path heads to the northwest. The path descends towards a bridge across the river. Negotiate the terrain cautiously. Once across, a level 30-minute walk between wheat fields brings you to the path going northeast. A 2–3-hr moderate climb brings you to the grazing pasture land of Seema/ Osla Village.

It takes another couple of hours to arrive at a sparse forest. After about an hour, the track heads down a moderate slope, bringing you to a small stream with a rickety bridge. Climb down, cross and then climb up for about 30 minutes. Another hour of easy walking brings you to the Har-ki-Dun Gad. After crossing a sturdy wooden bridge, a short climb brings you to a nice camping place. Or, walk another 15 minutes and you’ll reach the Forest Rest House (Govind WLS Tel: 0137-3223433; Tariff: `750). Har-ki-Dun also has a GMVN (Tariff: `550, dorm `220). DAY SIX

Har-ki-Dun-Jaundar Glacier-Har-ki-Dun Distance 4km Time 2–3 hours Level Moderate

Rest at Har-ki-Dun for a day, or head 4km northeast up the valley to the Jaundar Glacier (4,300m). Trekking may require technical knowledge. DAY SEVEN–NINE

Har-ki-Dun-Osla-Sankhri-Taluka

Return the same way to ‘civilisation’. For rest house and private camp bookings, see Accommodation Listings on pp293– 94 (Har-ki-Dun), p302 (Sankhri), p302 (Seema/ Osla) and p303 (Taluka). 

226 Uttarakhand

Gangotri-Gaumukh & Beyond

The Bhagirathi River meanders through the landscape here

shutterstock

Gangotri-Gaumukh & Beyond where the ganga originates ■ Mohit

Satyanand

Gangotri-Chirbasa-Bhojbasa-GaumukhTapovan-Bhojbasa-Gangotri

he Ganga, the holiest of the holy rivers, revered by Hindus, springs from an expanse of ice measuring 8km by 24km – the Gangotri Glacier. This is the source of the Bhagirathi, which joins with the Alaknanda to form the Ganga at Devprayag. The first time I approached the snout of Gaumukh, I was confused and more than a little disappointed. Where was the glacier, the virginal river of ice, its blue highlights glistening in the clear mountain

Time Level Ideal Season Location

5 days Easy–Tough May–Oct Northeastern part of Uttarkashi District

air? Where the Bhagirathi began was a vertical face of mud and rubble, some 300ft high, bridging the mountain slopes rising on both banks. We drew closer, and I began to detect the flecks of white under the surface of mud and grime. Only gradually could I discern the true nature of the sight before me – a cross section of the glacier, 250–270ft of compacted ice, which filled, and had shaped, the valley of the infant river. I heard a Uttarakhand 227

Trekking

crashing sound and turned just in time to see a chunk of ice, as large as a car, tumble into the river. At the very top of the glacier, was a 30–50-ft layer of mud and rock, the debris dragged down the mountains by the inexorable flow of glacial ice. To the left, in the north, were the towering vertical faces of the Bhagirathi massifs. Across the Bhagirathi, in the south, the scree slopes swept up into the distinctive pyramid of the Shivaling Peak. At eye-level, was the little entrance to an icy cavern, the mouth of the glacier – Gaumukh. Crafted in opaque ice of white and green, the glacier issued from its dark recesses the little trickle that has for millennia drawn to it the waters of a thousand streams and the faith of countless millions.

DAY one

Gangotri-Chirbasa Distance 8km Time 3–4 Level Easy

hours

Before you set out on the trail from Gangotri (3,046m), popular custom decrees that you visit the Ganga shrine, half a kilometre upstream before taking to the pilgrim trail that runs above the temple, that begins in the last stands of forest at the edge of the road into town. It is a well-maintained path, hugging the river on its path from east to west. The forest thins rapidly, and one is soon in a landscape of brown and grey, relieved by the stream below, and the symmetrically framed views of the grand mountains in front. The traditional first stage of this walk is to Bhojbasa, 13km away.

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Gangotri-Gaumukh & Beyond

But since the starting altitude is considerable, progress is slow, and if one is unsure of acclimatisation, it may be prudent to do the halfstage, to Chirbasa (3,350m), where a small group of chir pines is a relief in an otherwise desolate landscape. On both sides of the trail, dhabas offer simple fare, as well as a carpeted platform to sleep on and an ample supply of quilts. If you want to pitch a tent for the night, go down to the river, where you can camp among groves of silver birch. There is also a forest bungalow, too decrepit to offer shelter, but with a water-point and flat grounds well suited to a cluster of tents. DAY TWO

Chirbasa-Bhojbasa Distance 5km Time 2–3 Level Easy

hours

Above Chirbasa, the valley widens, and offers views of snow-clad peaks in the south. It is a gentle walk to Bhojbasa (3,800m), running virtually due southeast along the river, where the Bhagirathi peaks, ever a beacon to the source of the sacred river. Bhojbasa is the widest point in the upper valley, and camping here at night offers magnificent moonlit views of the Bhagirathi peaks. There’s an excellent langar at Lal Baba’s Ashram, and more commercial fare at GMVN (Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783; Tariff: `320), which also offers solar lighting and hot baths.

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getting there FROM Uttarkashi to Gangotri, it’s 105km/ 4hrs by car (`600 return) or 4hrs by bus (`120). Buses available daily during season Haridwar to Uttarkashi via Rishikesh, Dharasu and Dunda is 173km/ 7hrs by taxi (fare `2,500; shared jeep `250 per person) or 8hrs by direct buses. Haridwar is well connected to Delhi (203km/ 5hrs) by trains and buses (see p32 for details) RETURN Take the same route back from Gangotri to Haridwar (276km) via Uttarkashi. Taxis take 11hrs (`4,500 approx). There are several direct buses between Gangotri and Haridwar. Several buses operate from Uttarkashi to both Gangotri and Haridwar See Trek Planner on the facing page. DAY THREE

Bhojbasa-Gaumukh-Tapovan Distance 9km Time 4 hours Level Easy–Tough

The first four kilometres upstream from Bhojbasa are surprisingly flat, and though the valley narrows, the path runs smoothly above the river, and is fringed by a grassy meadow. With about a kilometre to go, the terrain turns rocky, and one has to pick one’s way through rocks and boulders, down to a sandy beach sheltered by piles of granite. Incidentally, the beach is a great place to camp. Uttarakhand 229

Trekking

Follow the broken path along the river’s edge to the very foot of Gaumukh (3,969m), and look up at Shivaling Peak (6,543m) almost vertically above. In autumn, the water is a shallow stream of greyblue, and you could wade out to the middle. In summer, it is well advised to keep to the banks. As one approaches the glacier, the path becomes a bit tentative, and if one wants to make the trip to Tapovan (4,463m), it is best to leave Gaumukh before noon. Despite the shifting nature of the route, the orientation is quite clear, and little piles of stone on the higher rocks regularly mark the trail. Climb up the northern side of the glacier (the right bank), till you gain its surface. Turning south, cross the glacier towards the slopes on the opposite side of the valley. Snaking through the rocks that are its surface, it is hard to remember that one is actually on a major glacier. Once you have reached the southern (left) bank of the river, the path is more clearly marked – a steep climb of almost 1,000ft to the meadows at the base of Shivaling. This is Tapovan, an exquisitely watered spot from which the fabled peak appears to rise up in a wave of rock and snow. It is an idyllic

camping spot. Alternatively, a couple of babas have establishments where you can spread your sleeping bag for the night. Simple, wholesome food is also forthcoming. DAY four

Tapovan-Bhojbasa Distance 9km Time 3 hours Level Moderate–Easy

It’s downhill all the way till Gaumukh and the next 4km are almost flat. If you’re feeling fit, walk another 5km till Chirbasa to spend a night exploring the banks of the Ganga. If you manage to reach Chirbasa, the next day will be easy as from here, it is a short journey of under two hours to Gangotri, allowing plenty of time for a drive to Uttarkashi. DAY five

Bhojbasa-Gangotri Distance 13km Time 4–5 Level Easy

From Bhojbasa, start early so that you are in Gangotri by noon and reach Uttarkashi (see p80) by late evening. For rest house bookings and hotels, see Accommodation Listings on p290 (Gangotri) and p303–04 (Uttarkashi). 

230 Uttarakhand

hours

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Mountain peaks as far as the eye can see, Tungnath Trail

Tungnath-Chandrashila Peak Pinnacle of the Panch Kedar ■ Mohit

Satyanand

Chopta-Tungnath-Chandrashila PeakChopta

he highest of the Panch Kedar – the five temples of Lord Shiva in the high Himalayas – Tungnath is estimated to be 3,660m above sea level. Ironically, it is also the easiest of the five to reach. You can have breakfast at Dugalbitta or Chopta (3,000m), tread steadily up the impeccably maintained chehfootiya (6-ft wide trail), have your darshan, and be back for lunch. But that’s definitely not making full use of a splendid opportunity to enjoy aerial views of the alpine meadows 232 Uttarakhand

Time Level Ideal Season Location

2 days or more Easy May to mid-Jun; Aug–Sep to view flowers in full bloom Chamoli District, Garhwal Himalaya

around Chopta, to admire the stone sculpture around the medieval temple, or to extend your walk up to Chandrashila Peak (4,130m). Equally pertinent, these are res pectable altitudes, and it is suggested you invest a couple of days in acclima tising. Taking long rambles in the wild forests and observing the wond erful birdlife is one of the best things

Tungnath-Chandrashila Peak

to do in and near Chopta. Around 76 avian species have been recorded in the area. DAY ONE

Chopta-Tungnath Distance 3.5km Time 2–3 Level Easy–Moderate

hours

If you’re even moderately acclimatised, you can make the temple in 3hrs. It is a delightful walk, with the feel of a day picnic. The first half-hour climbs through a forest of conifers and rhododendrons, ferns and lichens, and the view of the Bandarpoonch, with the Kedar massif off to the west, is surreal. As the switchbacks begin and the forest recedes, you get a feel of the meadows of Chopta you left behind. On both sides of the path, there are swathes of grassy slopes, with tiny clusters of wild flowers, wild rosemary and berries. Halfway up, there are a couple of shacks where you can stop for a tea and a packet of biscuits. From here on, the path drives a steady gradient up the western flank of the hill. In the distance, you can see a research centre for aromatic plants that lies off the path, which now begins to double back, to make the final ascent to the temple. Just before you get to Tungnath, there is a tiny Ganesh Temple perched on a rocky spur. As the path flattens, a flight of about 50 stairs veers sharply off to the left. At their head, a small kund signals that you have reached hallowed ground. You then pass through a corridor of eating and dossing houses before arriving at the

temple courtyard. Built of solid granite slabs, the Shiva temple at Tungnath resembles the ancient temple of Bageshwar and Jageshwar. Guarding the entrance is Shiva’s bull, Nandi. Images of the Pandavas and Adi Shankaracharya grace the sanctum sanctorum. ‘The arm of Shiva’ sits bang in the middle, a dark one-foot high linga. Outside, there are two smaller temples dedicated to Parvati and Vyas. A few lodges here offer basic accommodation, but the grasslands below the temple offer infinite camping possibilities too. DAY TWO

Tungnath-Chandrashila Peak-Chopta Time 4–5 hours Level Moderate

Start early and climb as fast as you can for the views from the top before

Uttarakhand 233

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it gets cloudy. Backtrack down the stairs to the Chopta path, and turn left on the clear trail. No longer paved, it narrows as it rounds the Tungnath Hill, and you’ll have to clamber as the terrain turns rocky. But it’s not dangerous and is suitable for all ages. Soon, the grass reasserts itself, and you can head off the beaten track and explore the various views on either side. The path, always visible, heads straight up. You should crest the tapering slope in less than two hours out of Tungnath.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there FROM Rudraprayag to Gopeshwar, it’s 74km/ 3hrs by car (`600–700 return, negotiable) or 3.5hrs by bus (`80). From here, Chopta (39km) lies on the crest of a road that runs from Gopeshwar via Mandal to Okhimath, before meeting the Rudraprayag-Kedarnath route. A jeeptaxi (`450) should have you there in 1.5hrs and a bus (`30) in 2hrs ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Rudraprayag to Okhimath is 42km/ 1.5hrs by taxi (`450, shared taxi `40). From Okhimath, Chopta is 30km via Dugalbitta, 1hr by taxi (`250–300) or 1.5hrs by bus (`30) RETURN the same way from Gopeshwar or Okhimath to Rudraprayag. Buses leave Chopta for Gopeshwar (9.30am and 10.00am) and Okhimath (1.40pm and 2.30pm). Timings may vary seasonally See Trek Planner on p233.

234 Uttarakhand

Legend has it that the deity Chandrama (Moon) spent a long time on the peak in penance. Rama, too, is supposed to have meditated here to atone for killing Ravana, a Brahmin. But even if you are a non-believer, the place does offer many rewards. The Chandrashila Peak is a broad summit, strewn with cairns, and offering views of the Mandakini and Alaknanda valleys and the white giants that water them: Chaukhamba, Bandarpoonch, Kedarnath, NandaDevi, Gangotri, Neelkanth and several other peaks. You can go down the hill to Tungnath in an hour, have tea and breakfast, and return to Chopta in another hour-and-a-half. You have ample time to explore the Mandal Valley, or Deoriya Tal. Or head back to the Mandakini Valley road on the route back to the plains via Rudraprayag. Alternatively, stay in Dugalbitta for the night, 2km west of Chopta. Magpie Camp Eco Tourist Village (Cell: 09897766007; Tariff: `3,000 per person, with meals) has 14 tents set amidst flowering shrubs. They will escort you up to Tungnath, Chandrashila and many other trekking points in the Chopta region. Also in Dugalbitta is the Mayadeep Herbal Resort (Cell: 09818144959; Tariff: `1,000–2,500), with comfortable rooms and a restaurant. They organise treks to Deoriya Tal. For more, see Accommodation Listings on pp289–90 (Dugalbitta), pp290–91 (Gopeshwar) and pp298–99 (Okhimath). 

Devprayag

Chilianaula

Chamoli

Uttarakhand Tourism

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Kedarnath

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Ahtushi deshpande

Walking though the Valley of Flowers makes for an unforgettable experience

The Valley of Flowers on a carpet of flowers ■ Mohit

Satyanand

Govindghat-Ghangaria-Bhyundar Valley-Ghangaria-Hemkund-GhangariaGovindghat

rank S Smythe was one of six British mountaineers who climbed Kamet Peak in 1931. On his return, he crossed the Bhyundar Pass, standing at 5,086m, “with the intention of exploring the mountainous region at the sources of the two princip al tributaries of the Ganges, the Alak nanda and Gangotri rivers.” The next day, Smythe descended to “lush meadows…embowered amidst flowers. The Bhyundar Valley was the most beautiful valley that any of us had seen. We camped 238 Uttarakhand

Time Level Ideal Season Location

4 days Moderate During the monsoons, July-end Aug In Bhyundar Valley of Chamoli District

in it for two days and we remembered it afterwards as the Valley of Flowers”. Smythe’s camp, he recalled, was surrounded by flowers – anemones, golden nomocharis, globe flowers, delphiniums, eritrichi ums, blue corydalis, wild roses and rhododendrons. Higher up, near the moraine, were saxifrage, potentilla, geranium and gen-tians, so many that “it was impossible to take a step without crushing a flower”.

The Valley of Flowers

Smythe recorded some 262 species of flowers in 1937 and 29 more were added to the list a few years later. You will find anemones, geraniums, marsh marigolds, primulas, asters, inulas, Brahmakamal, strawberry, epilobium and rhodod end rons. Many of the flowers found here even have medicinal value. The valley remains in bloom for three months while its floral composition keeps changing every few days. By September, the blooms start to fade and, for the next five months, remain dormant over winter when the valley is covered in snow. Apart from the flowers, you are likely to come across many butterflies and, if you are lucky,

you may even spot the musk deer, blue sheep, bear, Himalayan mouse hare and the elusive snow leopard. The valley is rich in avian life. The valley had long held a place in a local legend as Nandan Kanan – the garden of Lord Indra, but Smythe’s name stuck. Though the Himalayas are home to countless alpine meadows, called bugyals in Uttarakhand and thach in Himachal Pradesh, the Bhyundar Valley has come to occupy the popular imagi nation as the place to see alpine blossoms in the Himalayas. If you stand at the foot of the valley, grassy meadows run down to the cleft of the stream, which, even in August, is still fringed by ice. Rising gently, the valley

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Uttarakhand 239

Trekking

ends as a notch on the horizon, crested by the snows of the Rataban (6,166m) and the Nilgiri (6,474m) peaks. Mercifully, you don’t have to climb Kamet to get to the valley – the next time Smythe visited the region, it was via Joshimath, today a major army station, and on the Badrinath route. Note that prior permission is required from the forest department to undertake this trek.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (22km/ 45mins). Taxi to Rishikesh costs `1,600 Rail Convenient railhead: Haridwar FROM Rudraprayag to Joshimath, it’s 114km/ 4hrs hrs by car (`3,000) or 6hrs by bus (`270), on the Badrinath Road via Chamoli Joshimath to Govindghat is another 20km (taxi `1,000/ 45mins; bus `30/ 1hr) on this route RETURN the same way from Govindghat. This narrow road from Joshimath to Govindghat is one-way and traffic is governed by ‘gates’, time slots that regulate departure in each direction, so look for the earliest time at which you can leave. Direct buses (`450/ 13hrs) run from Joshimath to Haridwar from 4.00–7.00am. Taxis charge `5,000–6,000 for the 11-hr run See Trek Planner on p239.

240 Uttarakhand

DAY ONE

Govindghat-Ghangaria Distance 13km Time 4–5 Level Moderate

hours

Govindghat (1,828m) is a humongous parking lot, catering to the thousands of Sikh pilgrims painstakingly threading their way up to Hemkund Lake (locally known as Lokpal; read more about the yatra to the Hemkund Sahib gurudwara on p182). The pilgrim trail is an unending ribbon of stalls providing tea, refreshments, meals, phone calls and even massages! Leave your transport on the right bank of the Alaknanda. The ascent begins as soon as you cross and join the cheerful groups heading up to Ghangaria – now also known as Govind Dham. Tracing the path of the Lakshman Ganga, the mule track climbs past terraced fields and vegetation to the hamlet of Pulna (3km). From here, the trail is a little wilder, and more forested, with occasional glimpses of snow peaks and the cascading waters that feed the Alaknanda. The 7km from Pulna to Bhyundar Village are a steady ascent and the altitude is moderate. Shortly after Bhyundar, the trail crosses the Lakshman Ganga, over a bridge elevated by giant boulders. The going is somewhat harder now, but Ghangaria is only 3km away. During the short season (July– September), Ghangaria (3,050m) can be enormously crowded. There

Dwarahat

Joshimath

Uttarakhand Tourism

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UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Lansdowne

Trekking

is a Forest Rest House, a gurudwara, and associated dharamshalas here, as well as two excellent, full fledged camps ith very comfortable tents. DAY TWO

Ghangaria-Bhyundar Valley-Ghangaria Distance 8km Time 7–8 hours Level Easy

Leave Ghangaria with the stream of pilgrims heading to Hemkund. You need to veer left (northwest) as they climb east to the lake. The trail is well marked and is a delightful ramble as it climbs gently through a coniferous forest, before dropping down to a bridge, shack and checkpost that mark the official beginning of the Valley of Flowers (Bhyundar Valley, 3,858m). Pay your entry fee here (GMVN Cell: 07060211150) and climb up a rocky trail. The forest is now behind you and the flowers now begin to appear. u Valley of Flowers entry Indians `150; Foreigners `600 for 3 days As the trail levels out and turns right (east), you begin to get a sense of the valley. To the right, just below the trail, a marble slab marks the death of Margaret Legge, a botanist from Edinburgh who fell to her death here in 1939: “I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from

whence cometh my strength.” The valley is exquisite and it seems a shame not be able to spend the night here. In any case, do try and reach there early – both to catch the morning dew on the blossoms, as well as to make the most of the day. DAY THREE

Ghangaria-Hemkund-Ghangaria Distance 6km each way Time 4 hours each way

Level Hard

Crossing the bridge over the Hem Ganga once again, head east up the heavily-trafficked path. This is a challenging ascent. And, if you have done the Valley of Flowers trip the previous day, you will be better acclimatised than most others, and not likely to feel too drained when you finally reach the legendary glacial Hemkund Lake (4,329m). DAY four

Ghangaria-Govindghat Distance 13km Time 4–5 Return the same way.

For GMVNs and hotel details, see Accommodation Listings on p290 (Ghangaria) and p294 (Joshimath). ■

242 Uttarakhand

hours

PINDARI & KAFNI GLACIER TREK

Trekkers make their way across the Pindari Glacier

alamy images / india picture

PINDARI & KAFNI GLACIER TREK to the mouth of the glacier ■ ahtushi

deshpande

Loharkhet-Dhakuri-Khati-Phurkiya-Zero Point-Dwali-Khatia-Kafni Glacier-KhatiaDwali-Khati-Loharkhet

his relatively easy trek goes through verdant forest trails and pretty villages, along the contours of valleys fed by glacial streams. While the stupendous arc of the Maiktoli and Panwali Dwar ridge lies at the head of the Sunderdhunga Valley, the narrow Kafni Valley is dominated by Nanda Kot Peak. The cascading Kafni Glacier is the valley’s focal point. Sandwiched in between the Sunderdhunga and Kafni valleys lies the legendary Pindari Glacier, amidst towering peaks. You can walk into the KMVN lodges along the trail (Tariff: `200 per bed, dorm bed `200,

Time Level Ideal Season Location

12 days Moderate to easy May–Jun and mid-Sep to mid-Nov Bageshwar District, Central Kumaon

thali `150–200), or the PWD bungalows (Tariff: `200 per day). Day one

Loharkhet-Dhakuri Distance 9km Time 4.5 hours Level Tough to Moderate

The stone-paved trail kicks off from above the Loharkhet (1,829m) KMVN Rest House over a series of switchbacks first veering north, then west and north again. The mid-way point to Dhakuri is marked by the temple at Taladhakri. This is the toughest day Uttarakhand 243

Trekking

of the trek with the trail ascending further to the minor pass crossing of Dhakuri Khal (2,835m), marked by a temple bell. A tea stall offers repleni shment just 100m below the pass, which offers the first beautiful view of the Pindar Valley below. From the pass, there are three paths. One goes left to the village of Shubhi, and one right to Karimi. You must take the road going straight down from the pass to the campsite of Dhakuri (2,683m), which lies in a meadow, 20 minutes from the pass. There are KMVN, PWD and private guesthouses here, and a few dhabas too. Day two

Dhakuri-Khati Distance 10km Time 5 Level Easy

hours

This is an easy walk as the path descends through forest and fields of

the small villages of Wachham Gram. The trail then diverts east along the true left bank. The waterpowered flour mill at the small bridge crossing before the short ascent to Khati is the place where the path bifurcates, with the left going northwest into the Sunderdhunga Valley. For Khati village (2,210m), head straight up from the bridge. The Jai Nanda Hotel and Restaurant above the village, adjoining the PWD hut, is the focal meeting point for most trekkers. Fifteen minutes walk further up the path is the more isolated KMVN, situated in the forest. Mid-way to the KMVN lie two self-catered log cabins with a machaan for views (Tariff: `200). To stay in these, contact Prakash Singh at the Jai Nanda Hotel. Chanchal Singh’s shop in the middle of Khati is well stocked for rations. Day three

Khati-Phurkiya Distance 16km Time 8 Level easy

hours

Khati is the last village in the valley and from here on it’s only tea-houses and shepherd huts. Catch the broad trail from above the PWD Bungalow. For 6km, the path heads northeast along the true left of the Pindar River far below. After 5km, the path drops down to a broader river bed at Maliaghod, marked by a few shepherd huts and dhabas. Cross the river over a wooden bridge to the true right, heading up into dense forest with the river running wild and in 244 Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand Tourism

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Haridwar

Golu Devta Temple

Trekking

spate below. The gentle path carries on for another two hours through a narrow valley before coming down to yet another bridge crossing, leading to Dwali (2,734m) a little above. Most trekkers spend a night here, at the KMVN right on top of the village. Tara Singh’s cottage behind the PWD Bungalow is a good option too. Continue to Phurkiya (3,260m), just another 5-km/ 2.5-hr walk away. There’s a PWD Bungalow, a KMVN and a few dhabas at Phurkiya too. Day four

Phurkiya-Zero Point-Dwali Distance 17km Time 9 hours Level Moderate

Leave early, ideally by 5.00am. Heading north, the valley opens up

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

getting there From Delhi, many buses go daily to Almora from ISBT Anand Vihar. Get a bus or taxi to Bageshwar From Almora, or catch the night train from Old Delhi or Anand Vihar stations for Kathgodam and then a bus or jeep to Bageshwar (181km/ `4,000–4,500). Then take a bus/ shared jeep to Bherari (54km/ `70– 80). From Bherari, fix a 4WD vehicle (`1,000–1,500) that will take you to Song (14km) and onwards to Loharkhet (4km), the start off point for the trek. Take the same route back to Bageshwar See TrekPlanner on p244.

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to broader views of snow-capped peaks, while the Pindar River flows down in cascades. Tip There are no rest houses here, so camp in a hut if you have a sleeping bag. Zero Point (3,650m) is as far as you can go for a view of the Pindari Glacier. The path goes ahead of the temple, veering left towards the glacier. Zero Point is a windy spot on the narrow ridge of the glacier’s lateral moraine, which freefalls into the glacier’s vast bed below. This is the source of the Pindar River. Keep a lookout for herds of bharal who roam free here. Head back to Phurkiya, or further on to Dwali. Days five and six

Dwali-Khatia-Kafni Glacier-Khatia-Dwali Distance 22km Time 11hrs (over 2 days) Level Moderate

The Kafni Valley, which runs parallel to the Pindar Valley, veers east to north. At its head lies the odd-shaped Nanda Kot Peak, revered as Parvati’s kitchen. You can walk right upto the glacier here, and even peer into the cave formed by the snout. Be wary of rock falls from the glacier rubble. Though this part of the trek used to be done in one day, the construction of a tea house mid-way at Khatia makes it feasible to do it comfortably over two days. Days seven and eight

Dwali-Khati-Loharkhet

Retrace your steps back to Loharkhet from Dwali over the last two days. ■

Experience

experience

JOY MANDHOTRA

A kayaker navigates the rapids

kayaking on the ganga â&#x2013; JOY

MANDHOTRA

ishikesh, a small town nestled in the lower Himalayas, has always been synonymous with sanctitude, spirituality and yoga. Every year, this quaint town witnesses a footfall in millions. People from across the globe visit Rishikesh in order to seek spirituality. The mystique and intrigue is too strong a tempting force for many. But over the past two decades the town has become a crowd puller because of the plethora of adventure activities it offers. The topogra248 Uttarakhand

phical features along with the commercialization ensure one hell of a ride for all adventure enthusiasts out there. Somehow for many tourists, their first taste of adventure is rafting, for reasons I find obvious. Firstly it is a team activity and is bound to attract families or youngsters travelling in groups and secondly because it is the most prominent thing here and is advertised well. Although it is an exhilarating experience, I was personally more enthused by its lesser known counterpart â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whitewater kayaking!

kayaking on the ganga

My Experience

Let me take you back to the moment when the germ of kayaking was first planted inside me. My first encounter with the white-waters was in a raft alongside a group of friends. All in all it was a great experience but not completely satisfying. The one thing that bothered me the most was the safety guy on the kayak. I couldn’t help myself from gazing at him. The way he manoeuvred his boat over the raging rapids and the ease with which he carved his way out was simply enviable. It felt like I was in a chauffeur driven touristy vehicle with a bunch of people; that guy, on the other hand, had his own ride and all the freedom in the world. The sense of achievement that may follow such acts eluded me and I was filled with an insatiable desire instead to be more than just a spectator. Rafting was good but just not enough. When I visited Rishikesh the next time, I enrolled myself for a 4-day kayaking course with Team4adventure (India’s first kayak school; one day kayaking trip for `1,500–3,500). As an introduction to the extreme sport of white-water kayaking, they gave me some basic theoretical knowledge. Next, I was given a wet-suit, a helmet, a dry top, a spray deck and an imported kayak. I started on flat water with basic paddling. To my dismay, I was not able to steer the boat as per my will. It required paddling in a rhythmic way with constant motions which I failed to do at first. Rampant euphoria subsided into a

kind of cheeriness but I never stopped trying. By the end of the day, I was able to steer and balance the kayak decently well. The next day we did a short river run on a Class II rapid. My encounter with the rapids on a kayak was very

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

The Information When to go February–May; October– November Tourist Office ● GMVNL Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431793/ 83, 2432648 STD code 0135 Getting There Air Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun, (22km/ 45min away). It is served by Air India. Taxis can be hired at `10–12 per km. Waiting charges are extra Rail Convenient railhead is Haridwar, 25km/ 45min away, as its connected by the Shatabdi Express to Delhi and Dehradun. Taxis can be hired here or you can take a 1-hour bus ride to Rishikesh Road Bus Night buses leave from Delhi’s Kashmere Gate ISBT for Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradun. Fares to Rishikesh range from `460–620 approx; bookings can also be done through W redbus.in See Route Planner on p36.

Uttarakhand 249

experience

A scouting trip returns to shore ahead of a trip downriver

different from that on a raft. The same rapids that I had crossed on the raft earlier now appeared grander and loftier. During the course I received dedicated Eskimo roll lessons – a technique using which one could upright a flipped kayak without any help. Kayaking is a technical sport. The muscles which are otherwise dormant in normal life are brought to use. So the river guides ensure that the Eskimo roll is taught gradually using the right techniques without straining the muscles. I got my roll on the fourth day. It gave me a sense of achievement which was missing after the rafting trip. 250 Uttarakhand

Since that day, I’ve visited Rishikesh a few times to do longer river runs starting from the Marine Drive. The second time that I did it was with a German friend. He was a seasoned paddler who had paddled Class IV rapids. Surprisingly, he had never seen a river like Ganga, he said. The volume, the high rapids and the peaceful yet lively shores left him awestruck. On seeing a professional paddler admire the grandeur of the Ganga, I finally felt proud of my achievement. For Rishikesh Accommodation Listings, see pp300–01. ■

Bugyal

Chamoli

Tehri Lake

Uttarakhand Tourism

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Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

experience

Courtesy thrillophillia

Rafters negotiate rapids on the Ganga River

rafting in rishikesh

he is born in the most beautiful mountain range on Earth, coming of age in the lap of the Himalayas. The Ganga in Lower Tehri Garhwal, the point where she meets the northern plains, is munificent. The lower foothills, where she begins her descent to the plains, are strewn with her gifts – wide beaches along her banks, teeming birdlife and gentle rapids. Well, at least some of them. The landscape the Ganga has carved above Rishikesh is a perfect arena for newbie adventurers. The river, descending in a series of rapids, is a playful companion on your first taste of real adventure sport. To raft here is to experience thrills you haven’t known since you were a child. Whether sailing over gentle

252 Uttarakhand

bubbling pools or getting tossed around on challenging stretches, the Ganga offers a ride you’ll never forget. Spend a weekend or more rediscovering the child within you, with your family (little ones can safely raft on the Ganga too) on a raft on India’s most beloved river, and then come back down to the plains, returning to adulthood along with the splendid Ganga.

The Rishikesh rafting scene I set off for my first-ever rafting experience in the January chill. A time when Rishikesh is at its most beautiful, its river full of rafts and bathers with closed eyes connecting with realms beyond the Earth. Shivpuri village is the epicentre of the Rishikesh rafting experience,

rafting in rishikesh

with camps strung along the Badrinath Highway, north of the city. Rafters set off downstream from one of these upriver camps and descend to their journey’s end – the holy town below. Some of the camps take rafters further upriver by road to Kaudiyala, and this makes for a longer rafting foray to Rishikesh. As you drive up north from Rishikesh, the signposts for scores of rafting agencies and camps begin. Be careful whom you choose to raft with. Rafting on the Ganga is as safe as your operator’s competence. Ask around in the cafés to check the particular operator’s reputation. Tip No adventure sport is without risk, and, as always, hubris can have devastating consequences. People who are most at risk of meeting with accidents during rafting are overconfident young men, not children or the elderly. Rafting trips start on the beaches beside the river, where you don a wetsuit and board the raft. Listen carefully to your guide’s instructions. He will tell you how to ensure that your safety jacket is properly secured, how to use the paddles, how to sit on the raft, how to work as a team along with the others on the raft and how to signal for help in case it overturns.

My First Step I started my first rafting sortie with an introduction from Izack, the rafting guide with Red Chilli Adventures (day rafting trips: `900– 1,500; Tel: 0135-2434021). I was alone, rafting with strangers and, I have to admit, I was quite nervous. A

few of the others had rafted before. They all felt I must be a seasoned hand at adventure sport, being a travel journalist. Now not only did I have to negotiate a river by raft for the first time, I was expected to pull it off with nonchalance and ease.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

The Information When to go Rafting on the Ganga stops during the monsoon months between June and August. The rest of the year, book in advance. Tourist Office ● GMVNL Tourist Information Centre Yatra Office, Shail Viharm Haridwar Bypass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 2431793/ 83, 2435174 W gmvnl.com STD code Rishikesh 0135 Getting there Air Nearest airport: Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport (34km/ 1.5hrs) is connected by flights from Delhi. Taxi fare to Shivpuri is approx `1,100 Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar (41km/ 1.5hrs). Taxi fare is `1,100; camps arrange transfers Road The rafting camps lie along NH58, between Rishikesh and Kaudiyala Bus from Delhi to Badrinath will drop you off at Shivpuri; you can also ask to get off at the board announcing your campsite See Route Planner on p36.

Uttarakhand 253

experience sanjoy ghosh

Luxury tents on the banks of the river near Rishikesh

Half an hour later, I was in the water and screaming. I had just negotiated two rapids on the Ganga, paddling furiously alongwith my teammates as we hit the swirling waters. We had sailed down the river till we hit the first â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;stepâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; where the river descends. The raft had been pushed about a bit, but we paddled through with consummate ease. We had then stopped at a bend in the river for a little swim before continuing to take on the bigger rapids lying ahead. My little scare had nothing to do with the rapids. I had not checked that my safety jacket was on properly, and as soon as I got into the water for the swim, the jacket rose up to float around my neck, obscuring my vision and preventing me from swimÂ ming freely. The guide had to pull me back up onto the raft. So much 254 Uttarakhand

for the seasoned travel journalist! The rapid that followed made the earlier two seem like a walk in the park. I paddled as if my life depended on it. While negotiating the rapid, there were points when I did not know who was in control, us paddlers or the river, but nothing has ever matched the sense of exhilaration and achievement I felt when the rapid was finally behind us. We had just crossed the toughest one, the guide said. After that, all the fear evaporated, and though there were some tough rapids yet to come en route to Rishikesh, it was a bag of fun to negotiate them.

Serendipity The best part of the trip for me was the point when we stopped to swim again, near the Leopard Beach

rafting in rishikesh

Camp. The river was calm here, and we slipped off the edge of the raft to play a while in the water. I was floating on my back, my ears in the water, hearing nothing but the river, seeing nothing but the blue sky high above, framed in the gorge of the Ganga.

Safety Tips You need to carry a good pair of sandals for walking on the beaches and to wear while rafting; also sunglasses, sunscreen and a torch. Don’t stay up drinking late into the wee hours before you go rafting. You have to be free of alcohol for at least 6 hours before rafting, else you won’t be permitted to raft. WHERE TO STAY and EAT

GMVN’s Tourist and Rafter’s Camp (Tel: 01378-262911; Tariff: `2,500– 5,500 for room only, tents `900 per person with meals and one rafting trip) is in Kaudiyala. Some of the best private camps in Shivpuri include Snow Leopards’ Camp Panther (Gurgaon Tel: 01244592000; Tariff: `7,800–10,300 per person) near the Shivpuri Bridge; and Camp Leopard Heights (Tariff: `9,100 per person) on the other side of the river, accessible by zipping or raft. Aquaterra Adventures’ Camp

Aquaterra (Delhi Tel: 011-41636101; Tariff: `7,200 per person) is a great option. Aquaterra also runs Atali Ganga (Cell: 07060072708; Tariff: `12,000–18,000, with meals, 1 rafting trip and 2 activities) at Atali Dogi, with lovely cottages and a swimming pool. Himalayan River Runners’ Himalayan Hideaway Lodge (Delhi Tel: 26852602, Cell: 09711069955; Tariff: `9,200–11,800) has 10 rooms. The Grand Shiva Resort & Spa (Cell: 09412056939; Tariff: 6,500–15,000) offers packages. Dhruvnanda Nature Camp (Cell: 09193969628/ 29; Tariff: `1,800 per person, with meals and one rafting trip) offers 21 tents. The camp will soon be adding luxury and Swiss cottages. Other options include: Red Chilli Camp (Rishikesh Tel: 01352434021; Tariff: `3,000 per person), which is located in Byasi; High Bank Himalayan Retreat (Cell: 09412050478, 09837055578; Tariff: `6,999–9,999, with two meals) in Shivpuri village; Aspen Adventures Camp (Cell: 09711004099; Tariff: `3,500–4,000 per person, with meals) in Ghattughat with tents and cottages; and Camp Footloose (Cell: 08585911349, 08800857500; Tariff: `2,100 per person). For more, see Shivpuri Accommodation Listings on pp302–03. ■

Uttarakhand 255

Tehri Lake

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experience

A skier maneuvers down a snow-laden slope in Auli

Sonia Jabbar

SKIING IN AULI ■ SONIA

JABBAR

he little known pasture of Auli, within touching distance of Nanda Devi National Park, was developed into a winter skiing resort in the late eighties. Auli isn’t large: the entire skiing area is about 5–7km, but since it’s located way up between 9,500 and 10,500ft, it commands excellent views of the surrounding peaks, which soar well over 23,000 ft. The air is cold, fresh and scented with the aroma of pine; the skies are azure blue and the slopes covered with wonderful, soft powdery snow. A cable car ropeway traverses 4km up the hill from Joshimath, transporting you over the tops of oak 258 Uttarakhand

and fir trees to Auli. And when you swoop down the slopes, you don’t have to worry about the trudge back up: the baby slopes have a 1,640-ft ski lift, and the advanced slopes have a 2,620-ft chair lift to haul you to the top. After a week on the slopes you will be confident enough to whiz down a mountain and execute a fancy parallel turn. Skiing is wonderful exercise but be warned, it’s dangerous – your tummy disappears and your skin glows with good health. It could become addictive. THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Unlike other winter resorts, which offer tobogganing and sledding,

SKIING IN AULI

there are only three things to do in Auli: ski, ski and ski. But there are other magical moments, like watching the dawn break behind Nanda Devi, watching the sky open up at night, and the snowflakes floating gently, soundlessly to earth. Plus, there’s snowmen and snow castles to be built. ◆ Lift fee Chair lift `750; Ski lift `300

Learning to ski Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) offers 7-day non-certificate and 14-day certificate courses for the beginner from January to March every year. You could also learn privately from the freelance ins tructors hanging about the slopes. All the resorts in Auli arrange skiing with instructors. Equipment is charged on a per day basis. Fees for the GMVN course include boarding, lodging (shared accommodation), ski equipment, lift and training. Economy and regular categories will be accom modated at GMVN Auli, and deluxe at a top resort, with buffet meals. You can also opt for per day charges if you don’t wish to enroll in the course. ◆ Lessons `200 per day Gloves `200 Goggles `100 ◆ 7-day non-certificate course fee Indians `12,000–13,000; Foreigners `16,000 ◆ 14-day certificate course fee Indians `23,000–24,000; Foreigners `30,500 Tip Check W gmvnl.in for course updates.

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

The Information When to go Between January and March. Though winter sees below freezing temperatures, the slopes are carpeted with snow – ideal for skiing Tourist offices l GMVN Skiing and Tourist Resort, Auli Tel: 01389-223208, 223305 l GMVN Joshimath; Tel: 01389-222226/ 118 l GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431793, 2430799 l GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 W gmvnl.in STD code 01389 Getting There Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun (286km/ 9hrs) Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar Junction (293km/ 9hrs) Road If driving up from Delhi (15-hr drive), Auli is 16km off NH7. From Delhi, follow NH34 and NH7 till Joshimath via Meerut, Roorkee, Haridwar, Rishikesh, Devaprayag, Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Nandprayag, Chamoli and Pipalkoti. Break journey for the night, ideally at Rudraprayag. Take the PWD Road going south from Joshimath to Auli See Route Planner on pp24–25.

Uttarakhand 259

experience

WHERE TO STAY and eat

Auli has a host of excellent resorts. From the warmth of your room at Cliff Top Club Resort (Cell: 09756813311; Tariff: `8,000–12,000), gaze at Nanda Devi, Trishul, Kamet, Mana Parvat, Dunagiri, Bethartoli and Neelkanth. The resort, with 38 rooms, is located right on the ski slopes, below Tower 8. Apart from skiing, it also organises rock-climbing, nature walks and hikes, jungle camping and indoor games. The resort has a restaurant as well as a café. The GMVN Skiing and Tourist Resort (Tel: 01389-223305, Cell: 09568006602; Tariff: `1,650–4,500) is at 9,500ft. It is only a short slide down to the main road. GMVN offers 45 rooms, various ski packages and is

Preparing to ski Make sure that you have a minimum level of fitness to reduce chances of injuries while skiing at Auli. Train for at least a month in the gym, strengthening the quadriceps, calves, abs and arms. Else, run or jog for 20 minutes thrice a week for a month Dressing warm Your body is best kept warm using many layers. Wear warm Long Johns under your clothes and windproof pants and an anorak on top. Pack a pair of woollen gloves that can be worn inside the ski mittens. It’s essential to start the day with dry socks inside warm, dry boots Protecting your head The body loses heat through the head, so cover it up.

260 Uttarakhand

centrally heated. Himalayan Eco Lodges (Delhi Tel: 011-64004003; Tariff: `11,900 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals) has 15 rooms and a restaurant. They organise skiing, rock climbing, mountain biking and nature walks. Mountain Shepherds, set up by locals from the villages inside the Nanda Devi National Park (see p202), run Devi Darshan Lodge (Cell: 08191933300; Tariff: `3,600) with 12 rooms near the helipad. Stay here to support low-impact tourism and local communities. They organise skiing, birdwatching, and will take you on some of the best treks within the national park. For more, see Accommodation Listings on pp283–84 (Auli) and p294 (Joshimath). ■ Make sure that the cap you choose covers your ears Protecting your eyes Snow blindness is painful. Protect yourselves and the kids by always wearing sunglasses. You’ll need the extra protection and visibility enhancement of goggles, which you can rent from GMVN Protecting your skin At 9,500–10,500ft the air is thin and lets a greater quantum of UV rays enter the atmosphere. Added to this is the bounce and glare of snow. Apply liberal quantities of sunblock and high-SPF lip balm Re-hydration At high altitudes, drink plenty of water or fruit juice, but avoid alcohol and caffeine. Carry a water bottle. Never eat snow – it could contain harmful bacteria

MEALS IN THE MOUNTAINS

Surrounded by a verdant landscape, an angler tries his luck in the river

vinay badola

ANGLING IN KUMAON ■ Vinay

Badola & Rohit Handa

umaon offers unique oppor tunities for mahseer fishing. The Mahakali, along the IndoNepal border, is one of the least fished, but the best known big rivers. The heavy current makes the competition with the fish fierce. The mahseer, a large-scaled carp (family Cyprinidae), is the pick of game fish found in India. The fish inhabits both rivers and lakes, ascending to rapid streams with rocky bottoms for breeding. There are several different types of mahseer found in India, of which the golden mahseer (also known as the Himalayan mahseer) is the most

prized. The golden mahseer has been known to reach 2.75m (9ft) in length and 54kg (118 lb) in weight. Pancheshwar, accessed from Abbott Mount and Lohaghat in east Champawat District, offers rich pickings of mahseer from the Mahakali River at its confluence with the Saryu, and is best fished before the rains and after October. An international angling competition is held here in March. In eastern Almora District, magnificent mahseer pools are found in Kopote, Tanakpur in Champawat and on the Saryu and Sarda rivers. Rameshwar, at the confluence of the Saryu and eastern Ramganga, a little beyond Pancheshwar and Baramdeo are the best spots. Uttarakhand 261

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Trout is the common name given to a number of species of freshwater fish belonging to the salmon family, Salmonidae. Trout are usually found in cool, clear streams and lakes. The rainbow trout and the brown trout are the most common species in India. They feed on worms or insects, although larger specimens of brown trout regularly feed on other fish, and provide a good fight when caught with a hook and line. Fly fishing is a distinctive method developed primarily for trout. The Asi Ganga near Uttarkashi and Dodital, the lake at the head of the Asi Ganga River, offer rich pickings of trout. Trout also abounds in the Tons that flows from Har-kiDun into the Yamuna. Some anglers

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD

The Information Season April and May are trout fishing season in the Ganga, Ramganga, Kali and Saryu rivers. From August to September, the Ganga above Rameshwar and the Ramganga at Corbett yield excellent mahseer Equipment For angling, you’ll need a light-gauge fly rod, and a combination of floating dry flies and submergible wet flies. Or use a small spinning rod and a variety of spoon-type lures. As for bait, flour balls or corn kernels on a small hook are effective. Polarised sunglasses can help you see below the water’s surface on a sunny day

262 Uttarakhand

like to chase rodbenders like the giant goonch (catfish), which lurk in deceptively small pools. In Garhwal, the western Ramganga outside the Corbett Tiger Reserve is the prime hunting ground of the goonch and the Indian trout. In spring this area turns into a technical angler’s dream. The Junction, the confluence of the Western Nayar and the Ganga at Vyas Ghat, Garhwal, is best fished immediately before the rains. The fishing in this area extends from the Junction to the confluence of the Eastern Nayar and the Ganga below Lansdowne.

Operators Otter Reserves ( W otterreserves.com) is one of the best dedicated Indian angling outfits, offering mahseer fishing primarily at Pancheshwar. Blaze A Trail Adventures’ (Cell: 09837077537; W blazeatrailadventures .com) runs the Chuka Riverside Camp specifically for angling at Chuka Village near Pancheshwar, on the banks of the Mahakali River. Asian Adventures’ (Delhi Tel: 01144128785, Cell: 09811704651; W himalayanlodges.com) 6D/ 5N mahseer angling package takes you to Pancheshwar with stay at Abbott Mount and at a campsite in Pancheshwar. Kuflon Basics, above Uttarkashi, offers angling in the Asi Ganga River below the resort. Contact Anil Kuriyal (Cell: 09412004217; W kuflonbasics. com) for angling tours. Anil is great with first time anglers. Tip Also look for this sign angling in our Accommodation Listings from pp283– 316 for resorts that arrange angling. ■

Trying local cuisine is a great way to familiarise yourself with a culture and its people

MEALS IN THE MOUNTAINS ■ Ira

Pande

There is virtually no dhaba or restau rant left in the hills that offers authentic Kumaoni cuisine. With the ubiquitous ‘chow-meen’ and momo fever currently sweeping the hills, chances are that all you will get are chana bhatura, aloo-puri and a watery raita. For those hankering for an authentic Pahari meal, therefore, the best way may be to wangle an invitation to someone’s home and ask to sample it. It is well worth a try to ask for ras-bhaat, churkani, bari, mungauri, charanji and the works. The staple food in the hills continues to be dal-bhaat, or lentils with rice. Rice is also served with a broth

made from black soya beans (the same that is used to make tofu), locally known as bhatt, tempered with jhambu (a dried Tibetan chivelike herb) and topped with a delicious scoop of home-made ghee. Greens are always served at a traditional pahari meal. There is the sweet Pahari spinach (like Swiss chard), mustard leaves and even cooked nettles (rather strong flavour but sweet). Rotis made with madua (a coarse buckwheat) are relished with ghee and gur. The grand finale is the Pahari raita. The raita has a large range: from the tangy yellow, mustard-flavoured cucumber raita that tingles your sinuses, to a groovy one made with sweet radishes and Uttarakhand 263

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sour Pahari limes tossed with chilli powder and roasted and ground cannabis seeds (bhang ka raita). However, the seeds are the nonintoxicant part of the cannabis plant and add a zest that is unique. The other signature pahari vege table is the potato gutka. These are made from large Pahari potatoes and flavoured with coarsely ground coriander and turmeric. Cooked lovingly to a crispy finish in mustard oil, they are tempered with jhambu and sprinkled over with fresh green coriander. It’s best combined with fluffy puris and a tangy chutney made with sour pomegranate (darim), green chillies and bhang seeds. ahtushi deshpande

Bhaang jeera chutney All you need to make this signature chut ney eaten across Uttarakhand is cumin seeds, lemon juice, very hot green chillies, some salt and a smattering of bhang (Cannabis sativa) seeds. Grind to a paste on a stone, adding the rest of the ingredients as you go along. This dry chutney is excellent with hot paranthas and curd. Also sprinkle some over your everyday dal.

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All along the Kakrighat Valley (from Almora to Bhowali), the fields along the Kosi River produce sweet green peas, juicy green pumpkins, fat white radishes, capsicums and a variety of greens. If you can, stop at Garampani, a small village near Jalna on this road and head for Tewari Jalpan Griha. Until a few years ago, old Tewari cooked the meanest potato gutkas served with a sharp cucumber raita. Perhaps his sons have started selling pakoras by now, but that would be a pity. If you can coax the owner, do try your luck. From late April till September, tiny shanties spring up all along the hills along the tourist routes to sell sweet berries (gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, etc) in leaf baskets, and roasted corn. They rub a mixture of green chillies and salt along with lime. Juices, preserves and the squash made from blood-red rhododendron flowers are another interesting Kumaoni produce. Honey from the hives that dot the apple orchards and home-made pickles are sold from makeshift ‘shops’ all summer. The chewy bal mithai, encrusted with small sugared balls, is Kumaon’s best-known sweet. Its shyer cousin is the singauri, wrapped like a cone inside a maalu (fig-leaf) and eaten fresh. Made from fresh khoya, sugar and grated coconut, is available only in Kumaon. Another such sweet is the aloo ki launj. A small shop in Bhowali sells it and it is worth braving the narrow bazaar and mad traffic to reach it. Did I tell you about the fat Kumaoni jalebis? The best breakfast in Kumaon is jalebis and milk. ■

Chopta

Almora

Jim Corbett National Park

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

experience

Devotees throw colour at each other during the Jhanda Fair

satpal gandhi

FESTIVAL CALENDAR

s in most parts of India, the people of agrarian Uttarakhand mark each change of season with a festival. Then there are the age-old festive yatras to shrines tucked into the high Hima-layas, which see the union of people from far-flung hill districts, making these important occasions for trade. The following are some of the major festivals of the state.

January

Uttarayani, Bageshwar Uttarayani, a week-long festival ending on Makar Sankranti (14 January), is the lone high point of a bleak winter. The fair is held at several places across the state, but the most 266 Uttarakhand

visited event is in Bageshwar, dating to the time when the Bageshwar Mela was a rallying point during India’s Independence struggle. Traders from across the hills bring cattle and locally-made produce, from baskets and copper pots to musk, yak tails, dry fruit, spices and much more. The confluence of the Saryu and Gomti rivers in Bageshwar is crowded with bathers taking a holy dip, as are the sacred confluences across the state, despite the freezing cold. March

Jhanda Fair, Dehradun The historic Guru Ram Rai Darbar at Dehradun is the site of the annual Jhanda Fair celebrations, which take

FESTIVAL CALENDAR

place on the fifth day after Holi. The festival commemorates Guru Ram Rai, the founder of Dehradun. Devotees come from Punjab, Haryana, Himachal and Delhi to join the celebrations, which are launched with the hoisting of a new jhanda (flag) at the site.

Unique Holis The Uttarakhand Holi is a musical affair across the state, where holiyars or professional singers sing Holi songs set to Hindustani classical music. In the meadows of Dayara Bugyal above Uttarkashi, Holi is uniquely celebrated using buttermilk in place of water. Kumaon’s Khari and Baithaki Holi also see holiyars start the festivities with classical songs in temples. April

Jageshwar Fair The Shiva Temple at Jageshwar becomes a celebratory venue on Baisakhi (13 April), which marks the New Year for a number of Hindu communities. People take a ritual dip in the holy waters of the Brahma Kund here.

July–August

Neelkanth Mahadev Mela A stiff climb up the forested hill from Swargashram at Rishikesh brings devotees to the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, which is closely associated with the legend of Lord Shiva’s drinking of the vish (venom) created by the mythological churning of the ocean (samudra manthan). The lord held the venom in his throat so that the churning could be completed to produce amrit, or holy nectar of immortality. It was holding the venom in his throat that made it turn blue, giving Lord Shiva the name Neelkanth. Prayers and ritual offerings mark this mid-year mela.

Mahasu Devta Fair, Hanol The ancient Mahasu Devta Temple beside River Tons in Hanol, about Neelkanth Mahadev Mela

July

Harela, Kumaon The Kumaoni festival of Harela marks the arrival of the rains. It features the ceremonial sowing of seven kinds of grain in a pot – the green shoots that emerge are known as harela. Presently the more popular version in the region celebrates the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. Devotees create dikara (clay statues) of the deities and worship them.

bharat agarwal

Uttarakhand 267

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A huge procession hits the streets to celebrate Kandali

180km from Dehradun on the TiuniMori Road in Jaunsar-Bawar, is the venue of the annual Mahasu Devta Fair. Jaunsaris arrive in great throngs to accompany the procesÂsion of their local deity. The celebrations attract people from around Tehri Garhwal, Uttarkashi and Saharanpur.

Rakshabandhan, Bagwal, Devidhura Rakshabandhan, celebrating the ties that bind sister and brother, is very important in Uttarakhand. The most famous public celebration of this festival is at the Varahi Devi Temple at Devidhura, located at the tri-junction of Almora, Pithoragarh and Nainital districts. Music and dance performances fill the day, but people come from far and wide to watch the Bagwal, where groups of people throw stones at each 268 Uttarakhand

other, while defending themselves using shields. Augustâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;September

Kandali, Pithoragarh The Shauka tribesmen in Pithoragarh districtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chaudans, Byans and Darma valleys hold a week-long festival to celebrate the blooming of the kandali flower. Local legend has it that a young boy died after applying the paste of the kandali flower, resulting in the mother cursing the plant, hence it blooms only every 12 years. Each of the several narratives that underpin the Kandali Festival relates to the burning of the flowering kandali bush. The bush is ritually hacked and burned and a victory dance around the decimated plant is followed by a great feast.

FESTIVAL CALENDAR

September

Khatarua, Kumaon Kumaon celebrates the advent of autumn with the pastoral festival of Khatarua with bonfires, music, dance and much feasting. Villagers offer cucumbers to the fire to avert evil influences. October

Bat Savitri, state-wide All over Uttarakhand, married women worship the goddess Savitri and the banyan or bat tree for the well-being of their husbands. This practise is similar to the Karva Chauth tradition of the plains, when married women invoke, through prayers and a day-long fast, that archetypal devoted wife, Savitri. October–November

Virasat Festival, Dehradun The massive ONGC Stadium in Dehradun becomes a magnet for culture buffs as the annual Virasat Festival serves up 15 days of music and dance from some of the country’s most talented artistes. Organised by the Rural Entrepreneurship for Art and Cultural Heritage, which helms the process of creating awareness about the indigenous arts, crafts and culture of Uttarakhand, Virasat sees top local performers as well as from

elsewhere in India and abroad entertaining the crowds. u W virasatfestival.org

Vaikunth Chaturdashi Mela, Srinagar An important date on the spiritual calendar of Pauri Garhwal, the annual Vaikunth Chaturdashi Mela is held at Kamleshwar Temple at Srinagar. The 5-day festivities are marked by prayers and rituals. Childless couples in particular propitiate Lord Shiva here. November

Jauljibi Fair Jauljibi, where the Kali and Gori rivers meet, is considered the gateway to Pithoragarh’s Johar, Darma, Chaudans and Byans valleys, and was once considered the halfway point between Tibet and the Terai region. At this festival, it is still possible to see the diversity of the peoples of this border district, where India, Nepal and Tibet meet. Till the Chinese invasion of Tibet, there was free movement of communities from all three countries between places like Jauljibi, Dharchula and other important towns along the Kali River. Today, the Tibetans can’t make it to the Jauljibi Mela, but it still gathers together a number of communities to trade horses, butter, jaggery and other such goods. ■

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WELLNESS holidays

ttarakhand is home to a number of wellness retreats and ashrams where the mind turns quiet naturally. The ringing bells of Haridwar and Rishikesh make for an unparalleled spiritual experience and just being in the presence of the River Ganga and Himalayas is a wellness experience. Consequently, there is no dearth of magical healing spaces.

ANANDA – In the Himalayas Narendranagar Beautifully located on a mountain 270 Uttarakhand

Photos Courtesy ananda-in the himalayas

ridge around the 100-acre palace estate of the erstwhile Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal, a 45-minute drive from Rishikesh, this spa is amongst the highest rated luxury destinations in the world. The rooms here are luxurious, the tasteful elegance is better, and the view is truly exquisite. The 21,000-sq ft spa here features an extensive selection of therapies – from a range of Ayurvedic treatments to Thai and Swedish massages to body therapies – under the supervision of doctors, yoga and fitness instructors.

WELLNESS holidays

Left: Early morning meditation; Top: Yoga class; Below: Abhayanga massage

There are Ayurvedic packages for detoxification and cleansing, anti-ageing and weight loss amongst others, apart from customised guidance in nutrition and exercise. There are hydrotherapy facilities, a beauty institute, an out door swimming pool, saunas, steam rooms, a gymnasium and even a 7-hole golf course. You can undergo Ayurvedic medical consultation for advice on, apart from other health-related things, what to eat. Room and package rates depend on the type of treatment you are choosing. However, you can expect

to pay ` 27,000–1,37,000 for Ananda’s world-class facilities. Ananda – In the Himalayas The Palace Estate, Narendranagar Tel: 01378-227500, 227544, 227563 W anandaspa.com

AYURVAID KALMATIA Almora Located on the outskirts of Almora, the Kalmatia Sangam Himalayan Resort consists of 10 tasteful, understated stone and wooden cottages dotted around 16.5 acres of forested ridge to the north of the Uttarakhand 271

experience

A teacher guides a group of students through a meditation class

town. All the cottages offer stupendous views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. The resort offers a range of treatÂ ments in a secluded room in the heart of the forest: acupressure massage, moxibustion, Thai massage, aromatherapy, and foot reflexology. A 3D/ 2N Kalmatia Vaid package costs `58,000. For details, visit their website. AyurVAID Kalmatia Kalimat Estate, Almora Tel: 05962-251178, 251101 W kalmatia-sangam.com, ayurvaidkal matia.com 272 Uttarakhand

VIPASSANA SADHNA KENDRA Dehradun The Dehradun Vipassana Sadhna Kendra was established in 1995 by Rajesh Gupta and runs under the auspices of the Igatpuri chapter. About 28 10-day courses are run here each year and the updated schedules can be seen on their official website. To enrol for a course, ask for an application form from the Dehradun office or the Vipassana centre. However, the easiest way to register is to simply call them. During the course a strict routine is followed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; waking at 4.00am and

WELLNESS holidays

Cell: 09412053748, 07078398566 W dhamma.org

YOG-GANGA CENTRE Dehradun The Yog-Ganga Centre for Yoga Studies is located in the Old Rajpur suburb of Dehradun. Swati and Rajiv Chanchani founded this beautifully conceived place in the hills in 1988. The aim of the centre is to promote the study of yoga in the tradition of Sage Patanjali, under the guidance of the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute, Pune. Yog-Ganga holds several Iyengar Yoga

retiring at 9.00pm. The centre has very basic rooms, with attached bathrooms, shared by two people. Eight rooms are set around the central courtyard. Men and women occupy separate quarters. First-timers do the meditation in a big hall, while old students have the choice of meditating in cubicles provided around a pagoda. The ashram is spacious. Usually 50–60 students can stay here comfortably. The food is prepared by the caretakers at the ashram. Vipassana Sadhana Kendra Village Jantanwala, Santala Devi Marg Gangora, Dehradun

Photos bharat agGarwal

Uttarakhand 273

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intensive three-week long courses each year in which asana, pranayam and basic yoga philosophy are taught. The three-week course is normally meant for students with some previous foundation in Iyengar Yoga. It includes 22 lessons (42 hours) of asanas and pranayam, plus three talks on yoga philosophy. Most students stay as paying guests in nearby houses where they can find somebody to cook meals and do their laundry (charged separately). Check their website for updates on prices for the threeweek course. Rates vary for Indians and foreigners. Yog-Ganga Centre for Yoga Studies Near Shahenshah Ashram 101, Old Rajpur Road, Dehradun Tel: 0135-2733653, 2735933 W yog-ganga.com

SIVANANDA KUTIR Uttarkashi The Sivananda School of Yoga believes in making yoga and its profundity reachable to aspirants. Their teaching is based on the five precepts of correct exercise – breathing, relaxation, diet, positive thinking and meditation. Breaking down each approach into steps and guidelines for the student, the system gently leads you towards not just better health and spirits but also self-realisation. At Sivananda Kutir in Uttarkashi, located in the small hamlet of Netala, right next to the irrepressible River Bhagirathi, such selfrealisation begins to feel less impossible to attain. The kutir offers all kinds of courses: from beginners to teachers’

Guests being introduced to a ‘Satvik’ lifestyle based on Ayurveda and yoga

Bharat AgGarwal

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WELLNESS holidays Photos Courtesy bharat heritage services

Left: Pranayam, a yogic breathing practice; Right: Shirodhara treatment

training. They offer yoga vacations with daily asanas, pranayam, meditation, mantra-chanting and lectures. Prices vary from `15,000– 42,000 for an all inclusive package. The programme is available only during the month of August. The ashram is closed from November to April. Sivananda Kutir PO Netala, near Siror Bridge, Uttarkashi Cell: 09012789428, 08547881801 W sivananda.org/uttarkashi

BHARAT HERITAGE SERVICES Rishikesh An NGO that has committed itself to “promoting Indian heritage worldwide”, Bharat Heritage in Rishikesh organises training prog-

rammes, seminars and workshops for yoga and health-related issues. It works across a wide range of fields: pranayam, acupressure, Reiki and reflexology, Ayurveda panchkarma, Naturopathy, spiritual journeys (yatras to temples and sacred places), Vedic marriage and even ash immersion. Some of the courses offered at the Bharat Heritage Ashram (Office Tel: 0135-2435379) include a sixday Hatha Yoga course (`3,500) and a five-day Advanced Pranayam Course (`2,500). Prices are per session – Reiki costs `7,000; Ayurvedic massage `6,000; reflexology `5,000; and Ayurvedic cooking `5,000. Decent facilities for accommodation are available at their Bharat Heritage Ashram (Cell: Uttarakhand 275

experience Courtesy Haveli Hari Ganga

An Ayurvedic therapist massages a client’s face

09837089079; Tariff: `5,000 per person for a week), a 2-minute walk from the Ganga. The tariff includes meals. Selfcooking facilities are also available at the ashram. Bharat Heritage Services 273, Haridwar Road, opposite Akhanda Ashram Koyal Ghati, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2433179, Cell: 09837089079 Email: vivek@ayurvedaheritage.org W ayurvedaheritage.org

the HAVELI HARI GANGA Haridwar Set in a heritage building built by the Maharaja of Jaipur, The Haveli Hari Ganga is close to Har-ki-Pauri, clinging to the River Ganga. Set in a haveli built in 1917, it is located at Ram Ghat. It has its own private 276 Uttarakhand

bathing ghat and an ayurvedic spa. The 20 rooms of the haveli are spread over three floors; each floor has a terrace or balcony overlooking the perennial river. The rooms are big, but intimate. Besides the rejuvenating charms of the river and the luxury of a private ghat on the Ganga for prayers and ritual bathing, Haveli Hari Ganga also offers the R3 Naturals Ayurvedic Spa. The spa is located on the top floor of the hotel and has a pleasant décor. There is an open terrace next to the spa that affords great views of the ghats, and the flow of the river of humanity. They do a wide range of treat ments such as Abhyangam (full body massage with herbal oils, `3,000), Shirodhara (rhythmic pou ring of herbal oil or another decoc

Nainital

Uttarakhand Tourism

Gangotri

Simply Heaven Rajaji National Park

UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Almora

experience

tion on the forehead, `3,500) and an Indian-style head and foot massage (`1,200). Arrangements can also be made for a yoga and meditation instructor. Room tariffs are `10,000–11,500 for a river-facing room and `8,000– 9,000 for a superior room. The Haveli Hari Ganga Ram Ghat, Haridwar Tel: 01334-265207, 226443 W havelihariganga.com

International Yoga Festival Rishikesh Yoga means union, and nowhere is that more apparent than the International Yoga Festival, which takes place in March every year. With over 1,000 participants from 80 nationalities, the 2018 festival was the largest till date. According to Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswati, the Director of the International Yoga Festival, the biggest challenge the organisers face is creating a schedule for the festival that doesn’t overwhelm participants with its offerings and variety, but at the same time gives them the opportunity to experience many different schools of yoga. These range from the traditional Hatha and Ashtanga schools of

yoga to Vinyasa, Yin Yoga and Kundalini Yoga. There are also several wellness and spiritual traditions taught at the festival, such as Reiki, Acupressure and Aromatherapy. The daily Ganga aarti, a beautiful ceremony to give thanks for the numerous blessings we often overlook in our daily lives, takes place in the evening. Prayers, singing and a brief sermon by Pujya Swamiji and sometimes by Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswati are the usual features of this ceremony. The Yoga festival isn’t just about asana classes. There are several lectures throughout the week on acupressure, Reiki, sattvic diet, stress management, vegetarianism, and various types of meditation and chanting to name just a few. Participants are spoilt for choice. Bringing a buddy may be a good idea just so you can cover more ground in your learning. Above all, it gives people from different countries a chance to interact with each other. Details regarding attendance fee and other facilities can be found on the festival website. Parmarth Niketan Ashram PO Swargashram, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2434301-02 W internationalyogafestival.org n

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Information

District TOURISm development OFFICEr Dehradun

Mr. Kishan Singh Rawat Cell 9412998508 Tel 0135-2653217 Haridwar

Mrs. Seema Nautiyal Cell 7300799203 Tel 01334-265304 New Tehri

Mr. Suresh Singh Yadav Cell 9412998518 Tel 01376-233240 Uttarkashi

Mr. Prakash Singh Khatri Cell 9456364272 Tel 01374-223130 Rudraprayag

Mr. Pradeep Kumar Gautam Cell 9412998517 Tel 01364-233937

Nainital

Mr. Arvind Gaud Cell 9012353111 Tel 05942-235337 Bageshwar

Mr. Kirti Chand Arya Cell 9458300455 Tel 05963-221562 Champawat

Mrs. Lata Bisht Cell 9412996591 Tel 05965-230295 Pithoragarh

Mr. Amit Lohani Cell 8057223111 Tel 05964-225527 Udham Singh Nagar

Mr. Bhuwan Chandra Triwedi Cell 9410119182 Tel 05944-250838

Pauri

Mr. Atul Bhandari Cell 7895737015 Tel 01368-221900 ï¿¼ Chamoli

Mr. Brijendra Pandey Cell 9792376998 Tel 01389-253185 Almora

Mr. Rahul Chaubey Cell 8882376860 Tel 05962-230180 Uttarakhand 279

Information

TOURIST OFFICES Information UTTARAKHAND

Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (GMVNL) Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) W gmvnl.in; kmvn.gov.in GMVN OFFICES

Information & Booking

Shanti Nagar, Bengaluru Tel 080-22249378 CHENNAI

GMVN Tamil Nadu Tourism Complex 2, Wallajah Road, Chennai Tel 044-25363524

DEHRADUN

State Tourism Office GMVNL Tourist Info Office 74/1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun Tel 0135-2746817/ 9308

KOLKATA

GMVN Marshall House Room No. 224, 33/ 1, Netaji Subhash Road, Kolkata Telefax 033-24765555

HARIDWAR

GMVNL Rahi Motel Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel 01334-228686, 226430 RISHIKESH

MUMBAI

GMVN B/ 5, Arun Chambers Next to AC Market, Tardeo Main Road, Mumbai Tel 022-23526054 NEW DELHI

GMVN 102, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel 011-23326620 KMVN OFFICES NAINITAL

State Tourism Office KMVN Central Reservations Tallital, Nainital Tel 05942-236936, 231436

BENGALURU

DEHRADUN

GMVN 29/ 2, SF, Nanjappa Mansion, KH Road

State Tourism Office KMVN Tourist Info Office (PRO)

280 Uttarakhand

74/1, Rajpur Road Dehradun Tel 0135-2719720 KMVN METRO OFFICES KOLKATA

KMVN 7/ 2C, Chakraberia Road Kolkata Telefax 033-24868295 Cell 09339878995 MUMBAI

KMVN B/ 5, Arun Chambers Next to AC Market Tardeo Main Road Mumbai Tel 022-23536693 NEW DELHI

KMVN 103, Indraprakash Building 21, Barakhamba Road New Delhi Tel 011-23712246, 23319835, 41519366 Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board DEHRADUN

UTDC Pt Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan Near ONGC Helipad Garhi Cantt Dehradun Tel 0135-2559898, 2559987 Fax 2559988 RTO Tel 2653217 Email infoutdb-uk@nic.in W uttarakhandtourism.gov.in n

Travel AGENTS

TRAVEL AGENTS ALMORA STD 05962

Alpine Adventure Outdoor Programs Location Nanda Devi Market Tel 232051 Cell 09412044519, 09837021546 W alpineadventure.in Services Wildlife/ adventure tours, high altitude trekking High Adventure Location Mall Road Cell 09412044610, 09012354501 W trekkinghimalayas.in Services Hotel booking, high-altitude trekking/ eco treks, village/ glacier tours DEHRADUN STD 0135

Comfort Tours & Travels Location 10, Gandhi Road, Darshan Lal Chowk Tel 2656062, 2710666 W comforttourism.com Services Hotel/ air/ car/ bus bookings, adventure/ jungle safaris, Char Dham Yatra Divine Adventures Location 215, Raj Plaza, 75, Rajpur Road Cell 09411112293, 09219020993 Services River rafting, adventure trips, Char Dham Yatra, school trips, hotel / train bookings Delhi Reservations Cell 09999798990 Drona Travels (GMVNL) Location 45, Gandhi Road Tel 2653309 Cell 095680

06635 Services Himalayan Heli Darshan, Char Dham Yatra, safaris, hotel/ train bookings, car rentals Garhwal Adventure Location 193, Araghar Tel 2673607, 2654774 Cell 09412058745 W garhwal adventure.com Services Trekking, safaris, river rafting, photography tours, hotel/ train/ air bookings HARIDWAR STD 01334

Go To Holiday Location 556/ 308, Arya Nagar Chowk, Jwalapur Tel 254373 Cell 09837392608, 09837958114 W goto holidays.net Services Trekking/ adventure/ pilgrimage tours, hotel/ car/ air bookings Shobhit Travels Location Birlaghat Tel 229479 Cell 07351170088/ 2288 W shobhittravels.com Services Adventure/ wildlife/ Char Dham Yatra, hotel/ car bookings Branch Office Cell 09410192179 Skylark Adventure Tours Location 186, Sharwan Nath Nagar Tel 221582 Cell 09837200121, 08881302020 W skylarkadventuretours. com Services Adventure/ pilgrimage/ wildlife/ yoga tours, hotel/ car bookings

Branch Office Tel 213121 Cell 08881702022 JOSHIMATH STD 01389

Adventure Trekking Location Nanda House, Auli Road Tel 222446 Cell 09837937948 W adventure trekking.org Services Adventure/ trekking tours, hotel/ train/ car bookings Rishikesh Branch Cell 09759675791 Eskimo Adventures Location Main Market, Chamoli Tel 222864 Cell 09756835647 Services Adventure/ trekking tours, hotel/ train/ car bookings Himalayan Abode Location Badrinath Road Tel 222687 Cell 09412082247, 09756813236 W thehimalayanabode.com Services Adventure/ trekking tours, hotel bookings The Himalayan Adventures Holidays Location Opp Hotel Mountview Cell 09837937948, 09412439693 W the himalayanadventures.com Services Adventure/ trekking tours, hotel bookings MUSSOORIE STD 0135

Trekindia Himalaya Tours Location Upper Mall, Uttarakhand 281

Information Jhulaghar Tel 2630491 Cell 09837258589 W trek himalaya.com Services Trekking tours, hotel reservations, car rental MUSSOORIE TAXI SERVICES n Mussoorie Taxi Union Location Picture Palace, Kulri Bazaar Tel 2631407 Cell 09897287132 n Bhagirathi Travels Location Landour Cantt Tel 2631823, 2630717 Cell 09760500233, 09411575100 W bhagirathitravels.com n Kempty Taxi Stand Location Gandhi Chowk Tel 2610002, 2630587 n Library Taxi Stand Tel 2632115 NAINITAL STD 05942

Darshan Travels Location Near Everest Hotel, Mall Road Tel 235035, 235346 Services All travel related services Hina Tours and Travels Location Mall Road Tel 235128 Services Trekking/ adventure/ pilgrimage tours PANGOT STD 05942

Blaze A Trail Adventures Location Mountain Quail Lodge Cell 09837077437, 09411320948 W blazeatrail adventures.com Services Wildlife, trekking, motorbiking, angling tours 282 Uttarakhand

RANIKHET STD 05966

Himalayan Wanderers Location Mall Road Cell 09412092702 W himalayan wanderers.com Services Adventure/ trekking tours Nainital Office Tel 05942-235119 RISHIKESH STD 0135

Garhwal Himalayan Explorations Location Himalaya House, Tapovan Tel 2442267/ 888 Cell 09837055578 W the garhwalhimalayas.com Services Camping/ rafting/ trekking, Char Dham Yatra Red Chilli Adventure Sports Pvt Ltd Location Lakshman Jhula Road, Tapovan Tel 2442421 Cell 09412050521 W redchilliadventure.com Services Adventure sports, Char Dham Yatra, hotel/ train/ car bookings

222680 Cell 09412026657, 08958885555 Services Trekking, adventure packages, Char Dham Yatra IN THE METROS NEW DELHI and NCR

Asian Adventures Location Noida Tel 0120-444797 Cell 09266519519, 09811704651 W asianadventures.in Great Indian Outdoors Location Gurgaon Tel 0124-4081500/ 400 W gio.in, trekhimalayas.in Himalayan River Runners Location New Delhi Tel 011-26852602, 26968169 W hrrindia.com I Am Adventure (Biking Tours) Location Delhi Cell 09811829449 W iamadventure.in

Treks â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Rapids Pvt Ltd Location Forest Road, Industrial Area, Dhalwala Cell 09897684867 W treks nrapids.com Services River rafting, trekking, adventure sports Delhi Office Tel 01143539195 Cell 098108 70907, 08459054480

Ibex Expeditions Pvt Ltd Location New Delhi Tel 26460244/ 46 W ibexexpeditions.com

UTTARKASHI STD 01374

Mountain Trail Holidays Location Delhi Tel 4760 3625 Cell 09818644050 W mountaintrail.com n

Highland Trek & Tours Location C/o Hotel Bhandari, Main Road Tel

Leisure Hotels Location New Delhi Tel 46520000/ 50 W leisurehotels.co.in

hotels Legend DFO Divisional Forest Officer NA Not accepted NH National Highway NP National Park

Accommodation type?

Special Hotel needs?

heritage tents homestay

ayurveda safari

Spot these flags

Opp Opposite PO Post Taxes extra TE

Spot these flags

adventure

spa

METRO RESERVATIONS To book any state tourism hotel, see the Tourist Offices listings on p280

hotels easy access GARHWAL Auli Badrinath Barkot Chakrata Chamba Chopta Dehradun Dhanaulti Dharali Dugalbitta Gangotri Gaurikund Ghangaria Gopeshwar Govindghat Guptkashi Gwaldam Hanuman Chatti Haridwar Har-ki-Dun Harsil Janki Chatti Joshimath

283 284 284 285 286 286 286 288 289 289 290 290 290 290 291 291 292 292 292 293 294 294 294

GARHWAL AULI STD 01389

Cliff Top Club Resort adventure

Kalsi Kanatal Kanvashram Kedarnath Lansdowne Mussoorie Narendranagar Okhimath Pipalkoti Pokhri Rajaji NP Rishikesh Sankhri Sayana Chatti Seema/ Osla Shivpuri Taluka Tungnath Uttarkashi

295 295 296 296 296 297 298 298 299 299 299 300 302 302 302 302 303 303 303

KUMAON Abbott Mount Almora Askot

304 304 305

Facilities Restaurants, skiing Ramnagar Reservations Tel 05947-253232-34 Delhi Tel 011-46015080

skiing

Location Facing Nanda Devi Cell 09756813311 W ctcauli.com Rooms 38 Tariff `11,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA

GMVN Skiing & Tourist Resort adventure skiing Location Near Hanuman Temple Tel 223208 Cell 09568006602 W gmvnl.in

Bageshwar Baijnath Bhimtal Binsar Champawat Corbett NP Dharchula Didihat Jageshwar Kausani Leti Mukteshwar Munsiyari Nainital Nathuakhan Naukuchiatal Pithoragarh Ramgarh Ranikhet Sattal Sitla Sonapani

305 305 305 306 308 308 309 309 309 310 311 311 312 312 313 314 314 314 315 316 316 316

Rooms 44, dorms 1 Tariff `1,904-5,428 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, room service Metro Reservations See p280 Himalayan Eco Lodges adventure

skiing

Location Auli W himalayan ecolodges.com Rooms 15 Uttarakhand 283

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Tariff `9,900 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, rock climbing, pilgrimage tours Dehradun Reservations Tel 01352769696-97 Royal Village Auli Resort adventure

skiing

Location Next to GMVN Resort Tel 223221 Cell 09639419882, 09412052051 W auliresort.com Rooms 13 cottages Tariff `3,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, skiing Joshimath Reservations Tel 01389-222254/ 622 Shepherd's Lodge Devi Darshan skiing Location Near Army Helipad Cell 08006872193 W shepherdslodge.in Rooms 12 Tariff `3,600 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation, trekking, skiing BADRINATH STD 01381

Chardham Camp Location Near Joshi Vidyalaya, Singhdhar Road W leisurehotels.co.in Rooms 20 luxury tents Tariff `8,000-11,000, with all meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant

Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520000 Cell 09599181393, 09910384483 Hotel Dwarikesh Location Plot No. 536-537, near Bus Stand Cell 09410465300, 09456772894 W hoteldwarikesh.in Rooms 32 Tariff `2,750; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, sightseeing, room service, TV Hotel Narayan Palace Location Near Bus Stand Cell 09412058824, 09824069835 W narayan palace.com Rooms 42, suites 4 Tariff `4,000-6,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Jagirdar Guest House Location Charan Paduka Road Cell 08650710763, 09412935549 W jagirdar guesthouse.com Rooms 6, dorms 1 Tariff `2,000, dorm `2,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant New Hotel Snow Crest Location Near Bus Stand, Badrinath Dham Cell 09980100123, 09871212938 W hotelsnowcrestbadrinath. com Rooms 24, suites 16 Tariff `5,000-6,000; TE

Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Sarovar Portico ayurveda Location Plot No. 834 Cell 09310333317, 09582216963 W sarovarhotels.com Rooms 49, suites 7 Tariff `7,000-11,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, gym, Ayurveda centre, TV Tourist Bungalow Devlok gmvn Location Riverside Cell 09568006651 W gmvnl.in Rooms 30 Tariff `2,7893,540; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, travel help, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Tip GMVN also offers Tourist Rest House and Yatri Niwas here BARKOT STD 013752

hotels Camp Nirvana Yamunotri Location Barkot-Yamunotri Highway, Gangani Cell 09456529074, 09599222709 W campnirvana.in Rooms 25 luxury Swiss tents Tariff `3,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Multi-cuisine meals, attached bath Chardham Camp tents Location Yamunotri Road, near Dobata W leisure hotels.co.in Rooms 30 luxury tents Tariff `8,00011,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520000 Cell 09599181393, 09910384483 Hotel Devbhoomi Location Yamunotri Road Tel 24202 Cell 08171754463, 09917972485, 09323260606 W hoteldevbhoomi.com Rooms 14, suites 1 Tariff `2,800-6,100; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities

Restaurant, cultural activities, room service Hotel Karan Palace Location Yamunotri Road Cell 09412140235, 094105 45027 Rooms 32, suites 2 Tariff `1,200-1,600; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service CHAKRATA STD 01360

Blue Canvas Resort Location Village Korwa Cell 09927989991/ 93 W chakratacanvas.com Rooms 15 Swiss tents Tariff `1,800 per person, with meals, guides, adventure activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, indoor games Chakrata Forest Rest House frh Location Inside Chakrata Forest W forest.uk.gov.in Rooms 3 Tariff `1,050 Credit Cards NA Facilities

Kitchen, caretaker/ self cooking, provisions to be provided For Reservations DFO, Chakrata Forest Division Tel 01360-275078 Deoban Forest House frh Location Inside Deoban Forest W forest.uk.gov.in Rooms 3 Tariff `750 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, caretaker/ self cooking, provisions to be provided, attached bath For Reservations See Chakrata FRH above Himalayan Eco Lodges adventure

Location Viraatkhai W himalayanecolodges.com Rooms 11, tents 16 Tariff `8,600-9,900 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, skiing, rock climbing, pilgrimage tours Dehradun Reservations Tel 01352769696-97

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Hotel Hill Knights treks Location Lakhamandal Road, Dakra Cell 094561 10395, 08126622151 W hotelhillknights.com Rooms 9, suites 1 Tariff `1,000-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, horse riding, trekking, safari Hotel Himalayan Paradise Location Near Gwasa Bridge, Kimona Cell 07579280911, 07500273517 W hotelhimalayanparadise. com Rooms 16 Tariff `3,750-5,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, birdwatching Hotel Snow View treks Location Bungalow No. 35 Cell 09410823207, 094113 63231 W chakratasnowview. co Rooms 10, suites 8 Tariff `2,050-3,250 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, TV CHAMBA STD 01376

Amar Resorts adventure Location Hill Campus Road, Ranichauri Tel 252404, 252229 Cell 09412027043, 09997733631 W amarresorts.com Rooms 11, dorms 1 Tariff `1,2503,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, rock climbing, Internet Classic Hilltop Resort Location Chamba286 Uttarakhand

spa

Mussoorie Road, Tehri Garhwal Tel 255836 Cell 09412074108, 09411504752 W classichotelsindia.com Rooms 32 Tariff `4,5008,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa, Internet, TV

Hotel Snow View adventure Location Pothibasa Cell 09675398273, 07351637172 W hotelsnowviewchopta. com Rooms 10 Tariff `1,400-1,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, trekking

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Block Road Cell 09568006647 W gmvnl.in Rooms 2, suites 3 Tariff `900-1,400 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Neelkanth Hotel Location Main Market Cell 09830561283, 07500139051 Rooms 8 Tariff `1,2501,850 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Pristine Peaks Eco Camp adventure

CHOPTA STD 01364

Akashdeep Resort adventure

Location Tala Cell 096272 76459 W akashdeepresort chopta.com Rooms 8 Tariff `1,200-1,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, trekking

Location Patpadiya Cell 08750878650 W pristine peaksecocamp.com Rooms 8 tents Tariff `2,200 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, games, adventure activities, solar power DEHRADUN STD 0135

Chandrika Camp tents Location Badrinath Road Cell 09690450355, 094101 23945 W chandrikacamp chopta.com Rooms 9 tents Tariff `1,400 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, guides Chauhan Guest House Location Baniya Kund Cell 09818144959 Rooms 2 Tariff `1,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation

Ajanta Continental Location 101, Rajpur Road Tel 2749595-98 W hotel ajantadehradun.com Rooms 30 Tariff `3,600-5,000; TE Credit Cards Master, Visa Facilities Restaurant, bar Four Points by Sheraton Location 152/ 4, Jakhan, Rajpur Road Tel 6603300 W starwoodhotels.com Rooms 65 Tariff `7,50017,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities

hotels Restaurant, bar, gym, travel help, Internet, room service

Facilities Restaurant, travel desk, room service

Hotel Aketa Location 113/ 1-2, Rajpur Road Tel 2743514, 2744302 W hotelaketadehradun.com Rooms 31 Tariff `5,6008,650; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, Internet

Hotel Doon Castle Location Patel Nagar, Niranjanpur, Saharanpur Road Tel 2626166, 2726166 W hoteldooncastle.com Rooms 22 Tariff `2,5004,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet

Hotel Ambassador Location Windlass Shopping Complex, 11-A, Rajpur Road Tel 2655831-32, 2655953 W ambassador dehradun.com Rooms 28 Tariff `2,200-4,500 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet

Hotel Madhuban spa Location 97, Rajpur Road Tel 2749990-95 W hotel madhuban.com Rooms 106 Tariff `5,800-10,999; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym

Hotel Atithi Location Near Prince Chowk, 13, Tyagi Road Tel 2627246, 2625033 W hotel atithi.net Rooms 33 Tariff `1,500-5,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master

Hotel Padmini Palace Location Opp Jolly Grant Airport Tel 2412820 Cell 08477051111 W hotel padminipalace.co.in Rooms 25 Tariff `3,500-7,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, Internet, room service, TV

Hotel President Location 6, Astley Hall, Rajpur Road Tel 2657082/ 386, 2652120 W hotel presidentdehradun.com Rooms 22 Tariff `3,5004,100; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Hotel Relax Location 7, Court Road Tel 2656608, 2657776 W hotelrelaxdehradun.com Rooms 31 Tariff `2,0006,850; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet Hotel Saffron Leaf Location GMS Road Tel 2521400-02 W saffronleaf. com Rooms 37 Tariff `5,500-9,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, gym Hotel Softel Plaza Location Mohabbewala,

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Saharanpur Road Tel 2645050 W hotel softelplaza.com Rooms 38 Tariff `5,000-7,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, gym, Internet, room service Hotel Viceroy Inn Location Saharanpur Road, 391/ 1, Niranjanpur Tel 2729995-98 W hotelviceroy inn.com Rooms 30 Tariff `3,800-8,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, Internet Jungle View Retreat Location 151/ 1, Malsi, Mussoorie Road Cell 09456596354, 09456596352 W jvr.net.in Rooms 16 Tariff `2,500-3,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Lemon Tree Hotel Location Pacific Mall, Jakhan, Rajpur Road Tel 2737777 W lemontreehotels. com Rooms 49 Tariff `6,499-11,999; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, games room, Internet, TV Rio Resort spa adventure Location Guchchu Pani Cell 09810125957, 098183 27945 W rioresort.in Rooms 10 cottages, 5 ethnic huts, 3 mud huts Tariff `3,0006,999 Credit Cards Visa, 288 Uttarakhand

Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, adventure activities Riverstone Cottages Location Guniyal Gaon, near Abhimanyu Cricket Academy, PO Sinola Cell 09837023702 W riverstone cottages.com Rooms 15 Tariff `5,500-7,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, room service Shaheen Bagh treks spa Location 18 Bigha, Shigally School Road, Upper Dehradun Cell 08171223007, 09219948849 W shaheen bagh.in Rooms 16 Tariff `11,200-18,200, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, swimming pool, spa, Internet, trekking The Solitaire spa Location Haridwar Bypass Road, Kedar Puram Tel 2532225 Cell 08650002074 W thesolitaire.in Rooms 42 Tariff `6,500-15,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, gym, spa, Internet, TV Vishranti Resorts spa Location Village Lower Kandoli (Prem Nagar), PO Bidholi, Pachwa Doon, Nanda ki Chowki Cell 07457001204 W vishrantiresorts.com Rooms 10 Tariff `6,50015,000; TE Credit Cards

Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, swimming pool, spa, Internet, TV Walterre Location 18 Bigha, Shigally School Road W walterre.in Rooms 4 Tariff `5,5006,500, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining, indoor games, library, TV Noida Reservations Asian Adventures Tel 01204222797 Cell 09266519519 DHANAULTI STD 01376

Apple Orchard Resort Location Mussoorie-Chamba Motor Road Cell 097580 38777, 09719553067 W appleorchardresort.co.in Rooms 15 Tariff `4,6006,200; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, Internet, TV Hotel Dhanaulti Heights gmvn Location Amidst forest, at the end of the town, Mussoorie-Chamba Motor Road Tel 226223 Cell 07060410501 W gmvnl.in Tariff `1,400-4,720 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Hotel Drive Inn Location MussoorieChamba Highway Tel 226225-26

hotels Cell 09759797179, 097594 27210 W bcchotels.com Rooms 22, suites 2 Tariff `4,000-6,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, DJ, TV Hotel Snow View Location Near Hotel Crystal Palace, Mussoorie-Chamba Road Cell 09456311155, 09627601155 Rooms 10 Tariff `2,800-3,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Whispering Pines Himalayan Retreat adventure

Location Jwarna, ChambaDhanaulti Road Cell 084590 54480, 09897684867 W whisperingpines.in Rooms 2, tents 12 Tariff `5,999-6,899, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, adventure sports, archery, games Delhi Reservations Tel 011-43539195

DHARALI STD 013772

Hotel Springdales Location Dharali Rooms 10 Tariff `2,000-4,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, parking Delhi Reservations Cell 096709 95511, 09891289829 Kanpur Reservations Tel 0512-2680001-02 Prakriti â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Retreat Location Gangotri Highway, 81st km Milestone W prakriti-retreat.com Rooms 12 Tariff `4,4595,399 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Reservations Tel 0135-2715189/ 27, 2715580 DUGALBITTA

Alpine Adventure Camp

meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, trekking/ guides arranged Magpie Camp Eco Tourist Village treks birding Location Dugalbitta Cell 09897766007, 09758667755 W magpieecotourism.com Rooms 14 tents Tariff `3,000 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, guides, trekking, birding Mayadeep Herbal Resort Location Dugalbitta Cell 09818144959 W maya deepchopta.com Rooms 8, cottages 3 Tariff `1,0002,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities arranged

tents treks

Location Dugalbitta Cell 08476914402, 07351636880 W alpineadventurecamp. com Rooms 8 tents Tariff `1,800 per person, with two

PWD Inspection Bungalow Location Dugalbitta Rooms 2 Tariff `500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare food, attached bath

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Rudraprayag Reservations PWD Tel 01364-233300 Tip No phone, no electricity GANGOTRI STD 01377

Bhagirathi Sadan Location Near the Temple Cell 09411399572 Rooms 15 Tariff `1,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Forest Rest House frh Location Gangotri Rooms 7 Tariff `1,050 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare food Uttarkashi Reservations DFO Tel 01374-222444 Tip There are two more FRHs (Reservations Tel 01374-222444; Tariff `1,050) in Gangotri with 2 rooms each Gangotri TRH gmvn Location Riverside Cell 09568006669 W gmvnl.in Rooms 28, dorms 1 Tariff `990-2,464, dorm bed `200250 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, travel help, room service Metro Reservations See p280 Gangotri Yatri Niwas gmvn Location Riverside Cell 09568006669 W gmvnl.in Rooms 2, dorms 3 Tariff `990, dorm bed `250 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Metro Reservations See p280 290 Uttarakhand

Great Ganga Guest House Location Near the Temple Cell 09412917886 Rooms 10 Tariff `950 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation GAURIKUND STD 01364

Tourist Bungalow gmvn Location Gaurikund Cell 09568006656 W gmvnl.in Rooms 17, dorms 3 Tariff `1,568-2,744, dorm bed `300 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 GHANGARIA STD 01381

Ghangaria Camp Resort tents treks

Location Opp Helipad Cell 07579208060, 08449812304 W ghangariacampresort. com Rooms 10 tents Tariff `6,200-6,800, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining tent, trekking/ guides arranged, kerosene lanterns Hotel Nanda Parwati treks Location Ghangaria Cell 09411341039 Rooms 8 Tariff `1,200-1,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation, trekking, room service Kuber Hotel treks Location Ghangaria, VPO Bhyundar Cell 095688 77073, 09627006010 W kuberhotel.com Rooms 40 Tariff `1,500-2,800

Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, room service Preetam Hotel treks Location Bhyundar, Ghangaria Cell 098377 72884, 07579114858 Rooms 29 Tariff `2,4004,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, room service Sri Nanda Lokpal Palace Location Ghangaria, Village & PO Bhyund Cell 094129 09307 W hotelnandalokpal. com Rooms 30 Tariff `3,250-6,850 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, guides Dehradun Reservations Cell 09719830100 Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Ghangaria Cell 07060211150 W gmvnl.in Rooms 8, huts 4, dorms 2 Tariff `1,100-2,240, dorm bed `280 Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, attached bath Metro Reservations See p280 GOPESHWAR STD 01372

Peaches and Pears homestay

treks

Location Gwaana Dhar, Village Rauli, Ghingraan Road Tel 253664 Cell 07895031411, 09917012636 W peacetrips.com Rooms 6

hotels Tariff `2,000-2,300 Credit Cards NA Facilities Homecooked meals, trekking, rappelling, rock-climbing Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Near Bus Stand Tel 252468 Cell 095680 06658 W gmvnl.in Rooms 8, dorms 2 Tariff `1,568, dorm bed `300 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Metro Reservations See p280 GOVINDGHAT STD 01389

Ganga Resort homestay Location Near New Gurudwara Road Cell 09411183991, 073518 86591 W gangaresort.in Rooms 9 Tariff `4,0007,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, trekking Hotel Bhagat Location Govindghat Cell 09412936360 W hotel

bhagat.com Rooms 19 Tariff `2,400-3,400; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, attached bath GUPTKASHI STD 01364

Camp Nirvana adventure Location Village Rudrapur, Jakhdhar Road Cell 098993 77998 W campnirvanagupt kashi.com Rooms 7 cottages, 14 tents Tariff `3,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, helicopter bookings, yoga, trekking, rockclimbing, angling Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46107224 Cell 09599222708 Chardham Camp Location Kedarpuram, PO Guptkashi W leisurehotels. co.in Rooms 25 camps Tariff `8,000-11,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall Delhi Reservations Tel 01146520000 Cell 099103 84483, 09599181393

Himalayan Comforts Location Village Narainkoti, enroute Kedarnath Cell 09758197325, 08755316815 W himalayancomforts.com Rooms 17 cottages Tariff `8,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, helicopter bookings, Internet, room service, TV Mrityunjaya Palace Hotel Location Dakshin Kali Marg, Kalindi Vihar Cell 09012537543, 08755615132 Rooms 8 Tariff `2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, helicopter bookings, room service, attached bath, TV The Kailash Residency Location Narainkoti W thekailashresidency.com Rooms 19 cottages Tariff `7,400; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV

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Uttarakhand 291

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Tourist Bungalow gmvn Location Near the Bus Stand Cell 09568006659 W gmvnl.in Rooms 4, huts 4, dorms 2 Tariff `2,2403,540, dorm bed `350 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, hot water Metro Reservations See p280 GWALDAM STD 01363

Forest Rest House frh Location Gwaldam Rooms 2 Tariff `1,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare meals, attached bath For Reservations DFO, Badrinath Forest Division, Gopeshwar Tel 01372-252175 Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Treat Resort treks Location Shah Estate, Roopkund Road Tel 274389 Cell 09412117721, 096345 87885 W naturestreatresort. com Rooms 10 Tariff `2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, room service, TV Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Main Road Tel 274244 Cell 09568006660 W gmvnl.in Rooms 6, dorms 2 Tariff `500-990 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Trishul Guest House Location Nand Kesari Road 292 Uttarakhand

Cell 08755618992 Rooms 16 Tariff `700 Credit Cards NA Facilities Lodging only, attached bath HANUMAN CHATTI STD 01375

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Riverside, Near Bus Stand Cell 096900 10603 W gmvnl.in Rooms 7, dorms 3 Tariff `1,568 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 HARIDWAR STD 01334

Aalia spa rafting Location Chila Range, Shyampur, Naomabad Cell 07351008802/ 04 W aalia. net Rooms 36 Tariff `9,00012,000, villas `30,00040,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa, private helipad, Internet, TV Alaknanda Hotel Location Delhi Bypass Road, Belwala Tel 226379, 223787 Cell 09415019751 Rooms 35, suites 4 Tariff `2,100-7,400 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Ambrosia Sarovar Portico Location NH58, 12th Milestone, Rajputana Road Tel 398400 Cell 095369 00146 W sarovarhotels.com Rooms 66, suites 4 Tariff `4,000-11,000; TE Credit

Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, TV Classic Residency Location Haridwar Road Tel 228005-10 W classic hotelsindia.com Rooms 44, suites 3 Tariff `5,000-8,500; Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, Internet, TV Ganga Lahari spa Location Har-ki-Pauri Tel 220017-18 W gangalahari. com Rooms 16 Tariff `7,500-10,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, yoga, TV Hotel Alpana Location Ram Ghat, Lower Bazaar, Lower Road Tel 225544, 224567 W alpana hotels.com Rooms 31 Tariff `2,500-4,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Hotel Blue Lagoon Location Bilkeshwar Road, Laltarao Pul Tel 225551 Cell 07455911384 W hotelblue lagoon.co.in Rooms 27 Tariff `3,499-7,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, Internet, parking Hotel Ganga Sadan Location Niranjani Akhada Road, Shravan Nath Nagar Tel 228322 Cell 070880 04405/ 09 W hotelganga

hotels sadan.com Rooms 30 Tariff `4,500-27,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, private ghat, room service

08791422471 W hotelteerth. com Rooms 34, suites 2 Tariff `2,490-4,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV

Rooms 114, suites 15 Tariff `7,000-20,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, gym, spa, Internet

Hotel Grand Shiva Location Shankar Ashram Chowk Cell 07840023611, 08800132552 W hotel grandshiva.com Rooms 52, suites 2 Tariff `2,500-8,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure sports

Hotel Vinayak Location BHEL Road, Ranipur Modh Tel 220769, 222433 Cell 09412418538 W vinayakhotel.in Rooms 32, suites 1 Tariff `1,4995,599; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

Shri Prem Nagar Ashram Location Jwalapur Road Tel 226345, 227503 W prem nagarashram.com Rooms 400 Tariff Donations Credit Cards NA Facilities Meals provided, meditation

Hotel Himgiri Residency Location Devpura Tel 224506 Cell 09012813270 W hotel himgiriresidency. com Rooms 32, suites 3 Tariff `1,800-4,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant

Le Grand Hotel Location Ranipur Modh Tel 229250-53 Cell 099270 01470 W hotellegrand.com Rooms 29, suites 3 Tariff `2,500-3,750; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

Location 21, Pllibhit House, Ram Ghat Tel 226443, 265207 Cell 07500263336 W havelihariganga.com Rooms 14, suites 6 Tariff `13,000-15,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, yoga

Hotel Teerth Location Subhash Ghat, Har-ki-Pauri Tel 225211, 225311, 227111 Cell

Radisson Blu spa Location Plot C1, Sector 12 Tel 665400 Cell 089548 85212 W radissonblu.com

Forest Rest House frh Location Har-ki-Dun Rooms 2 Tariff `750 per

The Haveli Hari Ganga heritage

spa

HAR-KI-DUN

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Uttarakhand 293

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS person Credit Cards NA Facilities Attached bath For Reservations DFO, Govind NP Tel 0137-3223433 Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Har-ki-Dun Cell 09412941424 W gmvnl.in Rooms 1 Tariff `550 Credit Cards NA Facilities Attached bath Metro Reservations See p280 HARSIL STD 013773

Chardham Camp Location Near Gangotri W leisurehotels.co.in Rooms 20 tents Tariff `8,00011,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Multi-cuisine meals, first-aid, oxygen cylinders Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520000 Forest Rest House frh Location Harsil Rooms 2 Tariff `1,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare meals Uttarkashi Reservations DFO, Uttarkashi Tel 01374-222444 Harsil Retreat treks Location Harsil Cell 098911 58725 W harsilretreat.com Rooms 8 cottages Tariff `6,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, jungle walks Himalayan Nature Resorts Location Harsil 294 Uttarakhand

Cell 07579000767, 094121 02774 W himalayannature resorts.com Rooms 15 Tariff `5,500, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, helicopter bookings Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Near Bus Stand Tel 232210 W gmvnl.in Rooms 12 Tariff `1,9042,789 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 JANKI CHATTI STD 01375

Hotel Atithi Niwas Location Yamunapuram, PO Kharsali Cell 094121 40031, 09760170011, 08126691153 W hotel atithiniwas.com Rooms 33 Tariff `1,200-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Yamunotri Base Camp Cell 09568006644 W gmvnl.in Rooms 14, dorms 2 Tariff `2,016 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, attached bath Metro Reservations See p280 Tip Rooms also at the Annexe (Tariff: `950-1,568) JOSHIMATH STD 01389

Dream Mountain Resort Location Auli Road Tel 222266 Cell 08449063652 W dreammountain.net

Rooms 5, tents 5 Tariff `2,500-4,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Hotel Dronagiri Location Near Jyothi Vidyalaya Tel 222254, 222622 Cell 09410126609, 09412052051 W dronagiri hotel.com Rooms 15, suites 2 Tariff `3,000-4,500, Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Hotel Kamet treks skiing Location Near Ropeway, Upper Road Tel 222155 Cell 09412032202, 09411738302 Rooms 25, dorms 1 Tariff `800-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, trekking, skiing, room service, TV Hotel Mount View Location Badrinath Main Road, Upper Bazaar Tel 221993-94 Cell 081262 77186, 08449213289 W hotelmount-view.com Rooms 38, suites 2 Tariff `2,200-4,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Hotel Nature Inn skiing Location Auli Road Cell 09457070001, 09760470001 W hotelnatureinn.com Rooms 5 Tariff `2,5003,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, skiing, TV

hotels KALSI STD 01360

Snow Lion Estate adventure Location Near Sadhana Ashram, opp Kalsi Ashoka Edict Cell 09810076770, 09810219667 Rooms 10 Tariff On request Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, bar, adventure sports, billiards, volleyball, croquet Tip Route â&#x20AC;&#x201C; come up to Vikas Nagar, take right turn at 180Âş bend for Tamek Road, Snow Lion Estate is 1 km from this point KANATAL STD 01376

180 Degree Resort Location 7 km stone, Chamba-Mussoorie Road Cell 09997476630, 094589 04939 W 180resorts.com Rooms 10 Tariff `3,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, games, adventure activities, TV Camp Carnival adventure Location Chamba-Mussoorie

Road Cell 09911674000, 09911820000 W camp carnivalindia.com Rooms 25 tents Tariff `1,450-1,600, per person on twin sharing, `1,200-1,600, per person with meals, adventure activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Adventure activities, outdoor games Camp Little Jaguar Location Near Club Mahindra W reindeerresort. com Rooms 20 deluxe tents Tariff `2,400 per person, with meals and adventure activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area Rishikesh Reservations Cell 09837889969, 08447612261 Camp Thangdhar adventure Location Village Thangdhar W thangdhar.adventurecamp. in Rooms 15 tents Tariff `1,000-1,200 per person with meals and adventure

activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining tent Delhi Reservations Cell 07838348955 Club Mahindra Kanatal Location 11 km Milestone, Chamba-Mussoorie Road Cell 08393011155/ 66/ 77 W clubmahindra.com Rooms 37 Tariff `8,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, gym, adventure activities The Hermitage treks Location Rauslikhal, Chamba-Mussoorie Highway Cell 09917674830 W kanatal hermitage.com Rooms 12 Tariff `5,000-7,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, safari, trekking, Internet, TV The Terraces spa yoga Location ChambaMussoorie Highway Cell 08191902405, 09910600118

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Uttarakhand 295

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS W theterraces.biz Rooms 20, suites 1 Tariff `15,00022,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, gym, spa, Internet Delhi Reservations Tel 011-2680141112 Cell 09910600118

KANVASHRAM

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Kanvashram Cell 08449788639 W gmvnl.in Rooms 5 Tariff `700 Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, room service Metro Reservations See p280 KEDARNATH STD 01364

Ghughuti Resort Location Sersi Kedarnath, near Himalayan Helipad, NH 109 Cell 07835015680/ 81 W ghughutiresort.com Rooms 4 hill cottages, 3 tent cottages, 2 Swiss tents, 1 Cave house cottage Tariff `4,500-6,500, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, trekking, room service Himalayan Eco Lodges Location Kund W himalayan ecolodges.com Rooms 13, tents 2 Tariff `7,100-8,600 for 3D/ 2N, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, trekking, rafting, rock-climbing Dehradun Reservations Tel 01352569696-97 Cell 07895979208/ 211 296 Uttarakhand

Punjab Sindh Awas Location Near Post Office Cell 09412915221 Rooms 40 Tariff `2,500-3,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, attached bath Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Kedarnath Cell 09412045815/ 19 W gmvnl. in Rooms Cottages and tents can accommodate about 2,000 persons Tariff `6,000 (family suites), `600990 (cottages), `400 (tents) Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Metro Reservations See p280 LANSDOWNE STD 01386

Blue Pine Resort Location Near the lake, Dariya Khal Tel 263088 Cell 09899599229 W bluepine resort.com Rooms 35 Tariff `5,450-9,735, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Bright Sunny Pines Hotel Location Jaiharikhal Tel 263112 Cell 09953696794 W brightsunnypines.com Rooms 14 Tariff `6,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Fairydale Resort Location Bungalow 29 Tel 262599 Cell 09412081837, 09412025206 W fairydale

lansdowne.in Rooms 10 Tariff `3,950-6,720, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall Hotel Green Palms Location Dariyakhal Tel 263111, 263122 W hotel greenpalms.com Rooms 18 Tariff `3,500-8,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet Hotel Shantiraj Hillview Location Village Dhora Cell 09675012777 W shanti rajlansdowne.in Rooms 9 Tariff `2,150 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Kasang Regency Location Village Palkot Tel 262727 Cell 09411137650 W kasangregency.com Rooms 30 Tariff `5,0005,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, gym Lantana Greens Location Village Jadla, Lansdowne-Kotdwar Road Cell 09818887452, 094129 54148 W lantanagreens.com Rooms 10 Tariff `3,0004,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Retreat Anand treks Location Anand Dhura Tel 262305 Cell 0941135065960 W lansdownresort.in Rooms 15 cottages Tariff `2,000-4,100 Credit Cards

hotels NA Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, trekking

Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

Tip N Top gmvn Location Tip N Top Point Tel 263109 Cell 095680 06671 W gmvnl.in Rooms 15 Tariff `2,200-6,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280

Cloud End Forest Resort Location In the forest, 3 km from Hathipaon Cell 09634096861, 09412050242 W cloudend.com Rooms 6, suites 4 Tariff `5,700-7,499 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, jungle hike, yoga, Internet, TV

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Near Main Market Tel 262509 W gmvnl.in Rooms 6, huts 5 Tariff `1,680-3,540; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Metro Reservations See p280 MUSSOORIE STD 0135

Carltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Plaisance heritage Location Happy Valley Road Tel 2632800 Cell 09358120911, 09917955244 W carltonplaisance.com, ewjl.in Rooms 5, suites 6 Tariff `2,275-6,500; TE

Fortune Resort Grace Location Library Bazaar, Spring Road, Gandhi Chowk Tel 2636000 Cell 096340 93014 W fortunehotels.in Rooms 70, suites 4 Tariff `6,499-28,999; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, Internet, health club, night club, TV Golden Palms Hotel & Spa Location Opp Picture Palace, The Mall Tel 2635525-30 Cell 095579 29239 W goldenpalmshotel.

com Rooms 43, suites 2 Tariff `7,000-16,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Hotel Brentwood Location Near Picture Palace, The Mall Road Tel 2632036, 2632126 Rooms 76 Tariff `7,500-11,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, room service, TV Hotel Nand Residency Location Opp SBI Bank, Kulri Bazaar Tel 2631442, 2632088 Cell 09358111451, 09410148678 W nand residency.com Rooms 35, luxury 10 Tariff `4,0007,400; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, health club, Internet Hotel Padmini Niwas heritage

Location Gandhi Chowk,

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Uttarakhand 297

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Library, The Mall Tel 2631093, 2633123, 2632793 Cell 07310804566 W hotelpadmininivas.com Rooms 16, cottages 1, suites 6, apts 1 Tariff `4,000-7,400 TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, library, Internet, TV Jaypee Residency Manor Location Barlowganj Tel 2631800 Cell 08755301984 W jaypeehotels.com Rooms 131, suites 4 Tariff `7,25032,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, spa, disco, health club, swimming pool, Internet Jharipani Castle Resort Location Near Oakgrove Railway School, Jharipani Cell 09212027041, 099113 34302 W jharipanicastle. com Rooms 2 log huts, 2 suites Tariff `3,500-8,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Kitchen, trekking, Internet, TV JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa Location Kempty Fall Road, Siya Village Tel 2635700 W marriott.com Rooms 103, suites 12 Tariff `15,00036,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa Karma Vilas heritage Location Clair Villa Estate, 298 Uttarakhand

Big Bend, Bala Hissar Tel 2632316 Cell 07060214918 W aamod.in Rooms 12, wood houses 1 Tariff `5,000-15,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, TV Kasmanda Palace heritage Location Near Christ Church, Mall Road Tel 2632424, 2633949 W kasmandapalace. com Rooms 17, royals 7, suites 1, villas 2 Tariff `7,500-10,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet Rokeby Manor heritage Location Near Char Dukaan, Landour Tel 2635604-06 Cell 09634443666 W rokeby manor.com Rooms 10, suites 2, 3BHK apartments 1 Tariff `10,500-12,000, apt `38,000-56,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, Internet Royal Orchid Fort Resort Location Picture Palace Road, Tara Hall Estate Tel 2631611 Cell 09899117575, 07895923000 W royalorchid hotels.com Rooms 58 Tariff `6,000-11,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, gym, spa, Internet, parking, TV The Claridges Nabha Residence spa Location Airfield, Barlow-

ganj Road Tel 2631426-27 Cell 09897011425 W claridges.com Rooms 21, suites 1 Tariff `7,50015,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, gym, recreation area, library, TV Tulip Inn Green n Breeze Resorts spa Location Near JP Hotel, Barlowganj Tel 2631461 Cell 09313330119, 093581 35652 W hotelgreencastle. com Rooms 33 Tariff `5,500-6,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, room service, TV WelcomHotel The Savoy Location Library Bazaar, Gandhi Chowk Tel 2637000 W itchotels.in Rooms 50 Tariff `14,500-19,500 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, room service, TV NARENDRANAGAR STD 01378

Ananda â&#x20AC;&#x201D; In The Himalayas yoga spa Location The Palace Estate, Narendranagar Tel 227500 W anandaspa.com Rooms 70, suites 5, villas 3 Tariff `27,000-1,37,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, golf course, river rafting, Internet, TV For Reservations Tel 0124-4516650

hotels OKHIMATH STD 01364

Hanumant Inn & Resort Location Kedarnath-Chopta Road, near Saari Bend Cell 09968096179, 09212200221 W hanumantinn.com Rooms 6, cottages 2 Tariff `1,0001,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, games, room service Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Okhimath Tel 264236 Cell 09568006692 W gmvnl.in Rooms 2, dorms 1 Tariff `1,050 Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, hot water Metro Reservations See p280 PAURI STD 01368

Hotel Madhuban Location The Mall Cell 09997608887 W hotelshail shikhar.com Rooms 9 Tariff `1,000-1,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Hotel Shail Shikhar Location Near Circuit House, Kandoliya Road Cell 09634572007 W hotelshail shikhar.com Rooms 14 Tariff `2,500-3,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, bar, room service

Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, travel help, attached bath Metro Reservations See p280 V Resorts Mumukshu Location Devprayag Road Cell 09582544084, 08076891741 W mumukshu resorts.com; vresorts.in Rooms 14 Tariff `3,5004,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, village walks, room service, TV Noida Reservations Tel 0120-4004800 PIPALKOTI STD 01372

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Pipalkoti Tel 266237 Cell 09568006681 W gmvnl.in Rooms 18, dorms 2 Tariff `1,680-3,540 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 POKHRI STD 01372

The Birdsong Cottage homestay

treks

birding

Location Guniyala Khal, Nagnath Pokhari, Chamoli Cell 09350848865 Rooms 2 cottages (5 rooms) Tariff `1,500, cottage `4,500-9,000 (6-8 persons) Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, caretaker, library, trekking, Internet

C/o Ranjit Singh Farms, Village Lalwala Majbata W ewjl.in Rooms 8 cottages, 1 machaan Tariff `15,00025,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Homecooked meals, swimming pool, safari, cycling, fishing For Reservations Tel 01352632800 Cell 09358120911, 08318867552, 09917955244 Forest Rest House frh Location Inside the NP, Chilla Rooms 2 suites Tariff `1,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare meals but provisions to be arranged Dehradun Reservations Rajaji NP Telefax 0135-2621669 Email director.rajaji@gmail.com Tip FRH Chilla Annexe offers two Suites (Tariff: `750) with similer facilities Forest Rest House frh Location Inside the NP, Motichur Rooms 2 suites Tariff `1,200 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare meals but provisions to be arranged Dehradun Reservations See Chilla FRH alongside

Forrest Resort rafting Location Near Chilla Tourist Rest House gmvn Gate Tel 0135-2620933 RAJAJI NP STD 01382 Cell 09412074095 Location Kurda Road Tel W leisurehotels.co.in Uttarakhand toUrism development Board 222359 Cell 09568006680 Elephant Walk Jungle W gmvnl.in Rooms 14 Lodge and Farm Resort Rooms 20 cottage tents www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in Location Park Periphery, Tariff `5,500; TE Credit Tariff `650-1,232 Credit Uttarakhand 299

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, safari, river rafting, birdwatching Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520000 Cell 09555088000 Hotel Regenta Orkos spa Location Haridwar-Rishikesh Highway, Haripur, Kalan, Motichur Tel 0135-3954300 Cell 09927070131 W royal orchidhotels.com Rooms 56 Tariff `7,000-24,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, gym, Internet Junglee Resort safari Location HaridwarRishikesh Chila Canal Road Cell 08506055650 W junglee resort.com Rooms 3 wood houses, 3 brick houses, 2 tree den, 2 terrace houses Tariff `5,500-7,500, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, nature walks, safari, birdwatching Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Near Power House, Chilla Tel 266678/ 97 Cell 09568006649 W gmvnl.in Rooms 5, huts 4 Tariff `2,200-6,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, travel help Metro Reservations See p280 V Resorts adventure Location Village Ganga Bhogpur, Gauhari Range W vresorts.in Rooms 16 300 Uttarakhand

Tariff `7,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, spa, swimming pool, mountain biking, safari, river rafting For Reservations Tel 0120-4004800 Wild Brook Retreat rafting Location Village Bukundi W wildbrookretreat.com Rooms 6 cottages Tariff `6,800 with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, rafting, safari For Reservations Cell 093148 80887, 08107002924 RISHIKESH STD 0135

Aloha on the Ganges spa Location NH58, Tapovan W leisurehotels.co.in Rooms 80 Tariff `7,500-36,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, swimming pool, rafting, games room, TV Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46520000 Aranyam River Retreat Location Village Sindhudi, PO Mohanchatti, off Rishikesh-Neelkanth Mahadev Road via Brahmpuri Garurchatti Bridge Cell 098976 84867 W aranyam.in Rooms 12, tents 12 Tariff `6,4997,879, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, white-water rafting, trekking, night hiking, yoga/ meditation Delhi Reservations Cell 07042962780

Bharat Bhoomi Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Near Bus Stand, Shail Vihar, Dehradun Bypass Road Tel 2433002 Cell 09568006685 Rooms 50 Tariff `990-2,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Divine Resort yoga spa Location Tapovan, Laxman Jhula Tel 2442128-29 Cell 08171847799 W divine resort.com Rooms 33 Tariff `7,000-15,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa, Internet, yoga Ganga Beach Resort spa Location Lakshman Jhula Road, Sheshdhara, Tapovan Tel 2442018 W gangabeach resort.com Rooms 25 Tariff `6,500-14,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, yoga / meditation Delhi Reservations Cell 09821703600 Ganga Resort Tourist Complex gmvn Location Kailash Gate, Sheesham Jhadi, Muni-kiReti Tel 2438651, 2122098 Cell 09568006683 W gmvnl. in Rooms 28 Tariff `3,3044,956 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280

hotels Green by One Location Riverside, Swargashram, Ram Jhula Tel 2431242, 2434948 Cell 08171077111 W onehotels. in Rooms 30 Tariff `9004,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV High Bank Peasant's Cottage yoga Location Tapovan Tel 2442267/ 888 W highbank.in Rooms 8 Tariff `3,9994,999 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, yoga/ meditation Hotel Ganga Kinare spa Location Riverside, 237, Veerbhadra Road Tel 2435243 Cell 09015544000 W gangakinare.com Rooms 38 Tariff `7,000-16,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, yoga/ meditation, adventure activities, TV

Hotel The Great Ganga spa Location Muni-ki-Reti Tel 2442243, 2438252 W the greatganga.com Rooms 19 Tariff `4,000-9,800 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, yoga

Muni-ki-Reti Tel 2430373 Cell 09568006684 W gmvnl. in Rooms 36, dorms 2 Tariff `332-2,352 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Parmarth Niketan Ashram Location PO Swargashram Tel 2434301-02 W parmarth. org Rooms 1,000 Tariff `800-2,200 Credit Cards NA Facilities Canteen, yoga

Tapovan Vatika Resort Location Village & PO Tapovan, Via Laxman Jhula Tel 2432574 W tapovan vatika.com Rooms 28 Tariff `2,250-3,600; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure

Phool Chatti Resort Location Neelkanth Road Cell 09411110727, 094589 11732 W phoolchatticamp. com Rooms 19 cottages Tariff `1,850-4,000 per person, with meals and one rafting trip Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, games, adventure activities Rishilok Tourist Complex gmvn Location Kailash Gate,

The Glasshouse on the Ganges spa treks rafting Location Riverside, 23rd Milestone, RishikeshBadrinath Road, Gulardogi Cell 09412076420, 099171 91115 W neemranahotels. com Rooms 18, tents 2 Tariff `9,000-16,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, trekking, rafting, TV

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS SANKHRI

Sankhri Trh gmvn Location Near Sankhri Bus Stand, Saur Village Cell 09568006623 W gmvnl.in Rooms 5, dorms 3 Tariff `500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 Swargarohini Palace Location Har-ki-dun Road, Mori-Sankhri Road Cell 09412019974, 09410134589 W hotelswargarohini.com Rooms 32, dorms 1 Tariff `500-1,200, dorm bed `300 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, room service

accommodation Metro Reservations See p280 SEEMA /OSLA

Forest Rest House frh Location Seema Rooms 2 Tariff `750 per person Credit Cards NA Facilities Attached bath, hot water For Reservations DFO, Govind NP Tel 0137-3223433 Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Osla W gmvnl.in Rooms 5, dorms 3 Tariff `500, dorm bed `170 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, attached bath Metro Reservations See p280 SHIVPURI STD 01378

SAYANA CHATTI STD 01375

Hotel Himalaya Location In the market Cell 09412946905, 09897847455 Rooms 29 Tariff `800-1,100 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation Hotel Kalindi Location Near Tourist Rest House Cell 09412140031, 09760170011 W hotelkalindi. com Rooms 17 Tariff `2,500-2,700 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Tourist Rest House gmvn Location In the market Cell 09690010603 W gmvnl.in Rooms 9 Tariff `1,5682,240 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic 302 Uttarakhand

Atali Ganga adventure Location Atali Dogi, Milestone 30, Rishikesh-Badrinath Road W ataliganga. com Rooms 19 cottages Tariff `12,000-18,000, with meals, 2 activities and 1 rafting trip Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, swimming pool, adventure activities Reservations Cell 07060072708 Bullâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Retreat adventure Location Opp DGBR Cell 08377900817 W bulls retreat.com Rooms 18 Tariff `3,192-6,844 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Delhi Reservations Tel 01123340033/ 6209

Camp Aquaterra adventure Location Rishikesh-Devprayag Road, Upper Ganga Valley W aquaterra.in Rooms 35 tents Tariff `7,200 per person, with meals and 2 rafting trips for 2D/ 1N Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area Delhi Reservations Tel 01129212641, 41636101 Dhruvnanda Nature Camp Location Near Hotel Grand Tapovan Cell 09193969628/ 29 W dhruvnandanature camp.in Rooms 21 tents Tariff `1,800 per person, with meals and one rafting trip Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hut, adventure activities, trekking, electricity High Bank Himalayan Retreat adventure yoga Location Shivpuri Village W himalayanretreat.in Rooms 17 Tariff `6,9999,999, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, yoga, rafting Rishikesh Reservations Tel 0135-2442267 Cell 09412050478, 09837055578 Himalayan Hideaway Lodge adventure Location Rishikesh-Badrinath Road, Kalthari Village Cell 09711069956, 097116 90955 W hrrindia.com Rooms 10 Tariff `9,200-

hotels 11,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, adventure activities Delhi Reservations Tel 01126852602, 26968169 Snow Leopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Camp Panther adventure Location After Shivpuri Bridge W snowleopard adventures.com Rooms 37 tents, 8 huts Tariff `7,80010,300 per person, with meals and one rafting trip Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, adventure activities Gurgaon Reservations Tel 0124-4592000 The Grand Shiva Resort & Spa adventure Location Village Bawani, Shivpuri, Badrinath Highway Cell 09412056939 W thegrandshiva.com Rooms 54 Tariff `6,500-15,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, spa, Internet, adventure

Tourist and Rafterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Camp gmvn Location Kaudiyala Tel 01378-262911 W gmvnl.in Rooms 7, tents 10 Tariff `2,500-5,500, tents `900 per person with meals and rafting Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, hot water Metro Reservations See p280 TALUKA

Forest Rest House frh Location Taluka Rooms 2 Tariff Indians `750 per person Credit Cards NA Facilities Attached bath For Reservations DFO, Govind NP Tel 0137-3223433 Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Taluka W gmvnl.in Rooms 4, dorms 2 Tariff `500, dorm bed `170 Credit Cards NA Facilities Attached bath Metro Reservations See p280

TUNGNATH

Kali Kamli Dharamshala Location Tungnath Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation Rishikesh Reservations Tel 0135-2430006 Kolkata Reservations Tel 033-22318181 UTTARKASHI STD 01374

5 Elements Hotel Location Gangotri Highway, Gyansu Cell 09891158725 W 5elements-hotel.com Rooms 22 Tariff `2,5003,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, room service, TV Forest Rest House frh Location Near Court Bungalow Rooms 2 Tariff `1,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare meals, attached bath For Reservations DFO, Uttarkashi Tel 01374-222444

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Geetanjali Resorts treks Location Garam Pani Cell 09639286500 Rooms 25 Tariff `2,200-6,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, yoga Hotel Sahaj Villa Location Gangotri Highway, Gyansu Cell 09557420698, 09410572566 W sahajvilla. com Rooms 35 Tariff `1,500-3,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Tip Restaurant operational only during Yatra Hotel Shivlinga Location Gangotri Highway, Lakheshwar Tel 223518, 222418 Cell 09412077718 W shivlingauttarkashi.com Rooms 50 Tariff `3,0005,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Kuflon Basics Location Village Kuflon, Sangamchatti Road, PO Kalyani Cell 08475821681, 09412004217 W kuflon basics.com Rooms 5, tents 3 Tariff `5,000 with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, hikes, library, games Monal Tourist Home treks Location Kot Bungalow Road Tel 222270 Cell 09412984183 W monal uttarkashi.com Rooms 9 304 Uttarakhand

Tariff `999-3,299 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen

ALMORA STD 05962

Shikhar Nature Resort Location Riverside, Village Gawana, Ganeshpur Cell 09717891140 W nature campsindia.com Rooms 22 Swiss cottages Tariff `4,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, adventure park Delhi Reservations Tel 011-41322940-42

Ayurvaid Kalmatia treks Location Kalimat Estate Tel 251101/ 76 Cell 098867 63039 W ayurvedkalmatia. com Rooms 8 cottages Tariff On request Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, reflexology, Internet, library Tip Earlier Kalmatia Sangam Himalaya Resort. Currently being renovated

Tourist Rest House gmvn Location Tiloth Road Tel 222222 Cell 09568006693 W gmvnl.in Rooms 47 Tariff `1,793-4,130 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Elphinstone Himalayan Resort treks birding Location Jalna Cell 09927650346, 09568956801 W elphinstonehimalayan resort.com Rooms 12 Tariff `3,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, treks

KUMAON

Holiday Home KMVN Location Near All India Radio Tel 230250 Cell 08650002532 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 18 Tariff `2,4364,442 Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280

ABBOTT MOUNT STD 05965

Abbott Mount Cottage Location Near the Helipad W abbottmountcottage.com Rooms 4 Tariff `3,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, cook Noida Reservations Asian Adventures Tel 01204222797 Cell 09811704651 Bunty's Cottage Location Lohaghat Cell 09897737476 Rooms 1 cottage (3 rooms) Tariff `2,000 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, games

Hotel Himadri Location The Mall Tel 231666 Cell 07533800999 W hotelhimadri.com Rooms 17 Tariff `1,200-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Hotel Himsagar Location Mall Road Tel

hotels 230711, 232256 Cell 09897701213 W hotel himsagar.com Rooms 24 Tariff `1,400-2,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service

09917086797 W hotel shivalikriverretreat.com Rooms 14, dorms 1 Tariff `1,500-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, trekking, angling

Hotel Jeewan Palace Location Mall Road Tel 232507 Cell 09412995906 W jeewanpalace.com Rooms 15 Tariff `9902,200 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet

TRH Danya KMVN Location Main Road Tel 271036 Cell 08650002597 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 2 Tariff `700-800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Meals provided on request Metro Reservations See p280

Hotel Shikhar Location Mall Road Tel 230253, 230156 Cell 09412044001 W hotel shikhar.in Rooms 56 Tariff `1,350-5,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant Hotel Shivalik River Retreat treks angling Location River Point, NH87, Kosi Tel 241086 Cell

ASKOT

Askotiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Himalayan Guest House Location Askot Cell 09690894878, 094113 48217 W askotiashimalayan guesthouse.com Rooms 4 Tariff `1,000-2,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Meals on order, room service, TV Tip 100m from SBI, a concrete but narrow path leads to the guest house.

Vehicles cannot ply here, so you have to walk BAGESHWAR STD 05963

Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Bageshwar Tel 220034 Cell 08650002546 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 19, dorms 4 Tariff `600-900 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280 BAIJNATH STD 05963

Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Baijnath Tel 250101 Cell 08650002548 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 9, dorms 1 Tariff `750-2,200 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, room service Metro Reservations See p280 BHIMTAL STD 05942

Aamod Resort adventure Location Nishola, Nal Damyanti Tal Road Cell 09213022540, 09212114441

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS W aamod.in Rooms 34, suites 7 Tariff `4,000-8,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, Internet, adventure activities, TV

Cottage-in-Hills homestay Location Near SOS Hermann Gmeiner School, Rawat Gaon Cell 096506 12111 W cottageinhills.com Rooms 1 cottage Tariff `6,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Cook, TV Tip Earlier Birdy House Fishermenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge Location Lakeside, Mandir Marg Tel 247052 Cell 09411107854, 07088538217 W thefishermenslodge.com Rooms 12 Tariff `7,400, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bikes available, fishing, Internet Monolith Resorts Location Lakeside, Mandir Marg Tel 247415, 247582 Cell 08755899999 W mono lithresorts.com Rooms 5, cottages 13 Tariff `5,60015,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV Mountain Club Location Near the Butterfly Museum, June Estate Tel 248295 Cell 09411107933 W ctcauli.com Rooms 12, 306 Uttarakhand

suites 3 Tariff `4,400-6,600; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, TV Pandava TRH KMVN Location Lake-facing, Thandi Road Tel 247005 Cell 08650002523 W kmvn. gov.in Rooms 16, dorms 2 Tariff `1,500-4,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Delhi Reservations Cell 08958139414, 09675544799 Binsar Eco Resort Location Binsar Road, Dinapani Tel 251007-08 W binsarecoresort.com Rooms 24, cottages 6 Tariff `3,000-7,600 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV Delhi Reservations Cell 09690881818 Binsar Forest Retreat homestay

Sapphire Inn adventure Location Near Country Inn, Mehragaon Tel 247445 Cell 09997987396 W sapphireinn bhimtal.com Rooms 13 Tariff `2,700-4,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, paragliding, trekking, Internet, TV YMCA Youth Centre Location Near petrol pump, Mehragaon Cell 070888 34636, 09410338760 W ymcayouthcentrebhimtal. webs.com Rooms 2, dorms 3 Tariff `1,200 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen BINSAR STD 05962

Binsar Eco Camp Location Om Nagar, Dhaulchhina W binsareco camp.com Rooms 23 cottages Tariff `3,300, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, adventure activities, room service

Location Inside the sanctuary Cell 070551 04970/ 71 W binsarforest retreat.com Rooms 8, tents 3 Tariff `10,000-12,500, tents `7,500, with meals Facilities Dining area, solar electricity, room service Dinapani TRH KMVN Location Main Road, Dinapani Tel 251043 Cell 08650002553 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 8, cottages 2 Tariff `1,800-2,800, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 Forest Rest House, Binsar Location Near KMVN Rest House W uttarakhandforest. org Rooms 2 suites Tariff `2,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare food For Reservations Range Officer, Almora Tel 05962-230229

hotels Forest Rest House, Dinapani frh Location Dinapani W uttarakhandforest.org Rooms 2 suites Tariff `1,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare food For Reservations See Binsar FRH alongside

Kasaar Jungle Resort

Idyllic Haven homestay Location Inside the Sanctuary, Gaunap Village Cell 09410590980, 098495 14854 Rooms 4 Tariff `1,700 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, treks, birdwatching

Mary Budden Estate

Imperial Heights Location Kasar Devi, Binsar Road Tel 251009-10 Cell 08650269454 W imperialheightsbinsar.in Rooms 12 Tariff `4,8005,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant

Mountain Resort Khali Estate Location Inside the Sanctuary, Khali Estate, Ayarpani Village Tel 251011 Cell 09639989902, 094565 66685 W khaliestate.com Rooms 18 Tariff `5,950,

adventure

Location Near Kasar Devi Temple, Binsar Road Tel 251127 W kasaarjungle resort.com Rooms 26 Tariff `5,000-8,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, trekking/ rock climbing

homestay

Location Inside the Sanctuary Cell 097111 71350 W marybudden estate.in Rooms 7 Tariff `27,560, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining, library, games

with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, library Mumbai Reservations Cell 09820568809 Nanda Devi TRH KMVN Location Hilltop Cell 08650002537 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 25 Tariff `2,3554,184, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, solar power Metro Reservations See p280 The Grand Oak Manor Location Binsar Estate Cell 09412909518 W grandoak binsar.com, treeofliferesorts. com Rooms 9 Tariff `9,500-12,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, treks Reservations Cell 09602091000 YMCA Community Connect India Location PO Dinapani, Village Machor, Pokhratal

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Tel 251151-54 Cell 089795 20370 W communityconnect india.org Rooms 4, dorms 2 Tariff `1,000 per person Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, parking CHAMPAWAT STD 05965

Champavat TRH KMVN Location Main Road Tel 230030 Cell 08650002550 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 4, dorms 1 Tariff `900-990 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, hot water, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Hotel Mount View Location Main Motor Station Rooms 12 Tariff `500-950 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Delhi Reservations Cell 09897580328, 09927167905 Hotel Shiva Residency Location GIC Chowk Tel 230004 Cell 09412044242 W hotelshivaresidency.co.in Rooms 21 Tariff `1,0002,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, room service CORBETT NP STD 05947

Aahana Resort safari Location Sawaldeh, Semalkhaliya Tel 281240, 281189 Cell 07088600016 W aahanaresort.com Rooms 30, suites 16 Tariff `12,500-21,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master 308 Uttarakhand

Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, naturopathy centre Camp Riverwild safari Location Mohaan Tel 287877 Cell 09675708601 W camp-riverwild.com Rooms 6 cottages Tariff `4,900; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, safari, adventure activities, Internet, TV Corbett Machaan Resort Location Village Teda Cell 07042855755, 09268565533 W corbettmachaanresort. com Rooms 14 Tariff `4,500-5,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, library, TV Corbett Ramganga Resort safari

`9,600-16,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa, Internet, TV Corbett Riverside Resort safari

adventure

Location Village Garjia, Dhikuli Cell 097201043464, 07455003331 W corbettriver side.com Rooms 46 Tariff `6,000-14,300 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, horse riding, adventure Dhikala Forest Rest House Location Dhikala W corbett online.uk.gov.in Rooms 25, dorms 1 Tariff `1,0002,500, dorm bed `200 Facilities Canteen, safari For Reservations Tel 05947-251489 Cell 09759363344

adventure

Location Village Jhamaria, PO Sankar, Marchula Cell 09310510582, 09810201335 W ramganga.com Rooms 18, suites 2, cottage tents 10 Tariff `6,500-11,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, swimming pool, rappelling, safari, TV

Infinity Resorts adventure Location Overlooking Kosi River, Village Dhikuli Cell 09650193664, 09650193662 W infinityresorts.com Rooms 50 Tariff `7,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, safari, swimming pool Reservations Tel 0124-4675800

Corbett River Creek Resort & Spa safari treks Location Marchula Tel 01139589777 Cell 08585967610 W corbettrivercreek.com Rooms 24, suites 8 Tariff

Jim's Jungle Retreat Location Village & PO Dhela Cell 09359792915, 09899989508 W jimsjungle retreat.com Rooms 12 cottages, 6 lodges Tariff

hotels `10,500-12,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool Delhi Reservations Tel 011-43516376 Nadiya Parao Resort treks Location Ranikhet Road, Dhikuli Cell 09711149631/ 41 W nadiyaparao.com Rooms 34, premium 8 Tariff `4,500-7,500 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, treks Namah safari yoga Location Dhikuli Tel 266666 Cell 09837083486, 083929 14912 W namah.in Rooms 44, suites 4 Tariff `24,00038,000, with meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, safari, yoga, gym The Taj Gateway Resort Location Zero Garjia, Dhikuli Tel 266600 W gateway.tajhotels.com

Rooms 55 Tariff `8,00027,200; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, swimming pool, gym, spa, Internet, TV DHARCHULA STD 05967

Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Near Thana Tel 222557 Cell 09411785384 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 21, dorms 2 Tariff `800-900 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 DIDIHAT

Forest Rest House Location 5 km from Didihat, Shandev, Ghorpatta Rooms 2 Tariff `750 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can arrange meals Pithoragarh Reservations DFO Tel 05964-225234 JAGESHWAR STD 05962

Forest Rest House Location Almora-

frh

Pithoragarh Road W uttara khandforest.org Rooms 2 suites Tariff `2,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Caretaker can prepare food, attached bath For Reservations Range Officer, Almora HQ Tel 05962-230229 Tara Guest House Location Vriddha Jageshwar Temple Tel 263068 Cell 09410311600, 09411544736 W jageshwar. co.uk Rooms 16 Tariff `1,000-2,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, treks The Green Village Eco Resort yoga Location Artola Tel 263001 Cell 09412001114, 075794 32163 W thegreenvillage. co.in Rooms 10, suites 2 Tariff `5,000-18,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, cycling, yoga, Internet, TV

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Near Jagnath Temple, DandeshwarJageshwar Road Tel 263028 Cell 07534001706 W kmvn. gov.in Room 15 Tariff `1,760-2,766 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Chevron Eco Lodge Location Viewpoint, Kausani Estate Delhi Tel 011-22753151 Cell 098100 06395 W chevronhotels.com Rooms 12 Tariff `4,00010,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, Internet

Van Serai, The Wellness Lodge treks birding Location Near Jageshwar Temple Complex Cell 09266519519 W jageshwar. in/vanserai.com Rooms 6 Tariff `5,500-6,500, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, birdwatching, wellness retreat, trekking, TV Reservations Tel 0120-2222797

Divya Darshan Ashraya Resort treks Location Near tea garden, Baijnath Road Cell 097566 94250, 09411119888 Rooms 13 cottages Tariff `1,550-2,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, TV

KAUSANI STD 05962

Aashritha Kausani homestay Location Kausani Estate, TRC Road Tel 258016 Cell 09368032826, 08126886255 W aashrithakausani.com Rooms 5 Tariff `3,0004,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, Internet, birdwatching, adventure Anasakti Ashram Location Near Zila Panchayat, Dak Bungalow Tel 258028 Cell 08874528046, 09458094527 Rooms 22 Tariff `651-1,250 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Kitchen, attached bath 310 Uttarakhand

Himalayan Mount View Resort adventure Location Baijnath Road Tel 258080 Cell 09837576542, 08941876542 W kausani himalayas.com Rooms 19 Tariff `900-3,100; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, Internet, room service, TV Hotel Rudraksh Palace Location Baijnath Road, near Tea Gardens Tel 258075 Cell 09720007526, 096391 17902 W hotelrudrkash kausani.com Rooms 12 Tariff `1,500-2,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, room service, TV

Kosi Valley Retreat adventure

Location Simkholi, PO Ranman Mumbai Tel 02240102837 Cell 095947 85345, 07045455570 W kosivalleyretreat.com Rooms 1 bungalow, tents 7 Tariff `4,500-5,500, with two meals, tents `1,4001,800 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, TV Krishna Mountview â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mountain Resortâ&#x20AC;? Location Near Anashakti Ashram Tel 258008/ 22, 258168 Cell 09927944472, 09927990462 W hotel krishna.com Rooms 28, suites 3 Tariff `1,950-7,450; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, games, TV Sun N Snow Inn adventure Location Near Anashakti Ashram Tel 258010 Cell 09917471582 W leisure hotels.co.in Rooms 12, suites 1 Tariff `3,000-7,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, Internet, TV The Heritage Resort Location In a Tea Garden, Baijnath Road Tel 258044 Cell 08958667000, 097201 93444 W theheritage

hotels kausani.com Rooms 12, cottages 6 Tariff `4,5007,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurants, Internet, room service, TV Trishul TRH KMVN Location Kausani Tel 258006 Cell 08650002545 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 36 Tariff `1,500-5,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Metro Reservations See p280 LETI

Shakti 360o Leti treks Location Village Leti Tel 0124-4563899 W shakti himalaya.com Rooms 4 cottages Tariff `1,94,425 per person, `3,88,850 per cottage for 4D/ 3N, with all meals, activities, chef, guide and porter Credit Cards NA Facilities Trekking, village walks, birdwatching, yoga, adventure on request

MUKTESHWAR STD 05942

Camp Purple adventure Location On the ridge, PO Sargakhet Cell 098108 08448 W wildrift.com Rooms 25 tents Tariff `2,500 per person, with meals and some activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area Delhi Reservations Tel 011-29531036 Frozen Woods adventure Location Village Satkhol, PO Puda Cell 09953277415 W frozenwoodsresorts.com Rooms 9 Tariff `2,7506,750 Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, wildlife tours Mountain Trail Location Sargakhet Tel 286040, 286240 W mountaintrail.com Rooms 12 Tariff `3,800-6,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, disco, library, souvenir shop Delhi

Reservations Tel 01122720675-77, 47603625 Mukteshwar Himalayan Resort adventure Location Via Bhatalia, Leti Bunga Cell 094120 85494, 09411376988 W mukteshwar-resort.com Rooms 18 Tariff `2,8004,800, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Red Retreat treks Location BhateliaMukteshwar Road Tel 286299 Cell 09412007857 W redretreatmukteshwar. com Rooms 6 Tariff `2,500-4,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, TV Somerset Lodge heritage Location Hillview, Gahana Orchards, Sargakhet Tel 286165 Cell 08650076013 Rooms 4 Tariff `2,500 per

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ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining room, library, trekking, TV Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Mukteshwar Tel 286263 Cell 08650002528 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 14 Tariff `1,900-5,100 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Trishul Orchard Resort Location Ganga-Chaur, PO Bhataliya Cell 094129 86079, 08938866777 W trishulorchard.com Rooms 18 Tariff `3,000-4,000, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, Internet, adventure activities MUNSIYARI STD 05961

Camp Ramganga Location 7-8 km from Thal Cell 09690524353 W wildrift. com Rooms 15 tents Tariff `2,500 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining area, hiking Delhi Reservations Tel 011-29531036 Cell 09810808448 Himalayan Ark Homestays Location Sarmauli Village Cell 09411194041 W munsiari.com Rooms 25 homestays Tariff `1,6002,500 per person, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Home-cooked 312 Uttarakhand

meals, attached bath Tip 12 families are actively involved. Each homestay can accommodate up to 2-4 persons Hotel Bilju Inn treks Location Himnagari Tel 222555 Cell 09411163333, 08191890444 W munsiyari hotels.com Rooms 29 Tariff `2,000-3,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, TV

Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, room service, TV Zara Resort Location Near Main Market Tel 222524 W panchachuli resort.com Rooms 20 Tariff On request Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Pithoragarh Reservations Tel 05964-225256 Cell 08859745060 NAINITAL STD 05942

Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Facing Panchachuli Peak Tel 222339 Cell 07534001701 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 22, dorms 1 Tariff `1,100-3,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Abbotsford Location Prasad Bhawan, Oak Park, Mallital Tel 236188 Cell 09837314985 W abbotsford.in Rooms 3, suites 3 Tariff `4,000-8,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

The Last Frontier â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wayfarer Munsiyari treks Location Village Sarmauli W wayfareradventures.com Rooms 6 cottages Tariff `4,750, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining hall, treks, wooden bukharis, room service Noida Reservations Cell 08006702718, 09891429965

Balrampur House heritage Location Mallital Tel 236236, 231058/ 65 Cell 09411541997 W balrampur housenainital.com Rooms 18 Tariff `8,500-21,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV

Vijay Mount View Resort Location Thal Road Tel 222123 Cell 08449329977, 09456763334 W munsiyari hotel.com Rooms 25 Tariff `1,500-2,500; TE Credit

Dynasty Resort Location Khurpatal Lake, Khurpatal Tel 240258, 240115/ 20 Cell 078953 53938 W dynastyresort.com Rooms 46, suites 8, duplex 6 Tariff `3,000-8,800; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant

hotels Hotel Fairhavens Location Garden House Road, Mallital Tel 236057, 236604 Cell 09810006395, 08398801701 W chevron hotels.com Rooms 29, suites 1 Tariff `4,50013,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, TV

Snow View TRH KMVN treks Location Old British Governor House Tel 238570 Cell 09411108017 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 4 Tariff `2,1003,800, with two meals, and one cable car trip Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, TV Metro Reservations See p280

Hotel Langdale Manor Location Ayarpata Road, Mallital Tel 235447 Cell 09899526327 W langdale manor.co.in Rooms 27 Tariff `1,500-4,400 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

The Naini Retreat spa Location Ayarpatta Slopes, Mallital Tel 235105/ 08 Cell 09760090808 W leisure hotels.co.in Rooms 35, suites 5, duplex 6 Tariff `7,500-14,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, spa, gym, TV

Shervani Hilltop Location Shervani Lodge, Mallital Tel 233800 Cell 09411197601 W shervani hotels.com Rooms 42, suites 6 Tariff `7,50016,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, bar, Internet, TV

The Palace Belvedere heritage

Location Lakefront, Awagarh Estate, Mallital Tel 237434 Cell 09997523060 W thepalacebelvedere.com Rooms 17, suites 8 Tariff

`4,500-8,750; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV The Pavilion heritage Location Near High Court Tel 236178 Cell 098370 77930 W himalayapavilion. com Rooms 20, suites 14 Tariff `3,000-5,200; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master NA Facilities Restaurant Vikram Vintage Inn Location Opp Oak Park, Mallital Tel 236177/ 79 W vikramvintageinn.com Rooms 40, suites 2 Tariff `8,260-26,550, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, games, Internet, TV NATHUAKHAN STD 05942

Aah Himalaya homestay Location Hill-facing, Village Bhallar Cell 09811401260 W aahhimalaya.com Rooms 6 Tariff `3,500 per person,

Uttarakhand toUrism development Board www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in

Uttarakhand 313

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS with all meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Multi-cuisine meals, birdwatching, treks

Tariff `5,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Cook, caretaker, games, library

Bob’s Place heritage Location Amidst a fruit orchard Tel 285510 Cell 09811034861, 09927164492 W bobsplace.in Rooms 9 Tariff `5,500-7,200, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, Internet

Hotel Garden Nest Location Near Lotus Lake Cell 08126258582, 098971 06689 W hotelgardennest.in Rooms 6 Tariff `1,5002,200 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, TV

Ek Chidiya Cottage treks Location Nathuakhan Cell 09810169522 W ekchidiya. com Rooms 7 Tariff `6,500, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, trekking, Internet

The Lake Resort adventure Location Lake Resort Road Tel 247183-84 Cell 084499 47183/ 84 W thelakeresort. in Rooms 28, tents 10 Tariff `4,800-5,800, tents `2,400 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym

The Happy Dervish treks Location Nathuakhan Cell 09810047941 W thehappy dervish.com Rooms 9 Tariff `3,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Kitchen, river trek, archery NAUKUCHIATAL STD 05942

Déjà Vu treks Location Bohra Gaon Cell 09810064322 W naukuchia tal.com Rooms 1 cottage (4 bedrooms) Tariff `4,000, cottage `16,000 Credit Cards NA Facilities Cook, boating, trekking, Internet Emerald Trail homestay Location Jangaliyagaon Cell 09833949954 W emeraldtrail.in Rooms 9 314 Uttarakhand

The Lake Village adventure Location Village Chunoti, Boat Stand Cell 094581 45498, 09410305386 W naukuchiatallakevillage. com Rooms 24 cottages Tariff `6,000-20,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, library, Internet, TV Tourist Rest House KMVN Location Lakeside Tel 247138 Cell 08650002524 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 13, dorms 1 Tariff `2,350-3,900, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, games, Internet, room service, TV Metro Reservations See p280

PITHORAGARH STD 05964

Hotel Jyonar Palace Location Nagar Palika Chowk, Simalgair Bazaar Tel 223118, 223031 Cell 09412387829 W hoteljyonar palace.com Rooms 30 Tariff `650-950 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Hotel Punetha Inn Location Near District Hospital, MG Marg Tel 228969 Rooms 25 Tariff `800-2,800; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, room service Hotel Yash Yatharth Location Near PNB Bank, Naya Bazaar Tel 225005 Rooms 8 Tariff `2,6004,600 Credit Cards NA Facilities Basic accommodation, room service, TV Ulka Devi TRH KMVN Location Chandak Road Tel 225434 Cell 08650002538 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 15, dorms 1 Tariff `800-1,800 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 RAMGARH STD 05942

Aamari Resorts spa

adventure

Location Himalayan Heights Cell 08010777999, 098107 95979 W aamariresorts.com Rooms 39, sky villas 1

hotels Tariff `8,500-12,999, sky villa `28,000-39,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, swimming pool, spa, yoga, Internet, TV Cedar Lodge treks birding Location Malla Ramgarh Tel 281154 Cell 090685 56775, 09811168841 W cedarlodgeramgarh.com Rooms 10 Tariff `6,9009,900, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, birdwatching, trekking, Internet Hill View KMVN treks Location Near Udyan Vibhag Tel 281155 Cell 086500002531 W kmvn.gov. in Rooms 9 Tariff `1,2003,500 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, trekking, Internet, TV Metro Reservations See p280 Kumaon Roop Resort Location Main Road, Bhaya

Bhavali, PO Gagar Cell 09411378379, 09927359818 W roophotels.in Rooms 16 Tariff `2,600-3,000 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, games, TV

09411108156 W neemrana hotels.com Rooms 16 Tariff `3,600-10,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, games

Soulitude in the Himalayas Location Snow View Point, Gagar Cell 09999330379 W soulitude.in Rooms 10 Tariff `12,000-15,500; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV

Alka Hotel Location Gandhi Chowk Tel 220269 Cell 09410311000 W alkahotelranikhet.com Rooms 9 Tariff `1,5003,200; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV

Taradale Cottage Location PWD Rest House Road, Village Bohrakot Tel 281189 W taradalecottage. com Rooms 6 Tariff `5,000-9,000; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Dining room, Internet Delhi Reservations Cell 09899970735 The Ramgarh Bungalows Location Malla Ramgarh Tel 281156/ 37 Cell

RANIKHET STD 05966

Chevron Rosemount heritage

Location Near Meghdoot, The Mall Tel 221391 Cell 09411708462 W chevron hotels.com Rooms 9, suites 1, cottages 1 Tariff `4,0008,000, cottages `5,5009,000, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, room service Delhi Reservations Tel 011-22753151/ 8774

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Uttarakhand 315

ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS Holm Farm heritage birding Location Near Hydil Colony Cell 09411113263-64 W holmfarmheritage.com Rooms 14, cottages 1 Tariff `4,500-6,900, cottage `10,200, with two meals Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, Internet, TV Kalika Trh KMVN Location The Mall Tel 220893 Cell 08650002533 Rooms 20 Tariff `1,2502,400 Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant Metro Reservations See p280 Ranikhet Club Location The Mall Tel 220611 W chevronhotels. com Rooms 4 Tariff `4,0005,500, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, bar, billiards, card room, TV Delhi Reservations See Chevron Rosemount on previous page Ranikhet Inn Location Near SBI, Gandhi Chowk, Sadar Bazaar Tel 221929 Cell 07055111395 Rooms 7 Tariff `3,0004,200; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, TV Windsor Lodge heritage Location Kallika Estate, Dadgallia Tel 222098 W welcomheritagehotels.in Rooms 26 Tariff `7,500316 Uttarakhand

15,000; TE Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Restaurant, gym, spa, games Delhi Reservations Tel 011-46035500 Woodsvilla Resort Location Majhkali Tel 240374/ 81 W woodsvilla resort.com Rooms 27 Tariff `7,000-7,450, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Restaurant, adventure activities, TV Delhi Reservations Tel 011-41552060 SATTAL STD 05942

Camp Suryagaon tents

adventure

Location Lake-facing Cell 09810808448 W wildrift.com Rooms 30 tents Tariff `2,500 per person, with all meals and activities Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, trekking, kayaking, separate tents for bath and toilet Delhi Reservations Tel 011-29531036 Cell 09810808448 Tip Earlier Saattal Camp Getaway Jungle Camp tents

adventure

Location In the valley, Chaporia Tel 26013897 Cell 09810440150 W getaways junglecamp.com Rooms 25 tents Tariff `5,000, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, treks, adventure activities

Tourist Rest House water sports

KMVN

birding

Location Near the Lake Tel 247047 Cell 086500 02530 W kmvn.gov.in Rooms 9 Tariff `1,7502,600, with two meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Cook, water sports Metro Reservations See p280 YMCA Campsite tents Location Near the lake Cell 09759299198, 09368002081 W newdelhiymca.in Rooms 10 campus tents, 4 luxury tents, 4 huts Tariff Campus tents `240-300 per bed, luxury tents `1,200-1,500, huts `2,000-2,500; TE Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, adventure activities SITLA STD 05942

Sitla Estate homestay Location Sitla Estate Tel 286330 Cell 09917506183, 09756560677 W sitlaestate. com Rooms 2, suites 9 Tariff `5,800-10,300 Credit Cards Visa, Master Facilities Kitchen, wildlife, Internet SONAPANI

Himalayan Village Sonapani adventure Location Sonapani Estate, Satoli Cell 08006300100 W himalayanvillage.com Rooms 12 cottages Tariff `6,200, with meals Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, games n

Transport Directory

Transport Directory AIR Uttarakhand has two airports serving its many destinations. Jolly Grant Airport is located at Doiwala in northwest Uttarakhand, 24 km south-east of the state capital Dehradun, and serves destinations in the Garhwal region. Pantnagar Airport is 5 km west of Pantnagar and 16 km east of Rudrapur in south-eastern Uttarakhand, and serves destinations in the Kumaon region. Presently it is served by 5 flights from Air India, from Delhi. Heli-flights are available for tours of the Dhams, as well as pleasure tours of designated places in Garhwal and Kumaon. These tours are available out of Sahastradhara (in Dehradun), Phata and Agasthyamuni helipads AIRPORT LINKS

Jolly Grant Airport offers onward road connections across the Garhwal Region to Mussoorie, Rishikesh, Haridwar, Auli, Chakrata, Kanatal, Gwaldam, Kalsi, Uttarkashi, Chamba, Pokhri, Lansdowne, Rajaji National Park, Madhyamaheshwar, Rudranath, Tungnath, Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib, Bedni Bugyal, Nandikund, the Char Dham and Panch Kedar Tip Flights to Jolly Grant Airport are available only from/ via New Delhi Pantnagar Airport offers onward road connections across the Kumaon Region to Nainital, Naukuchiatal, Sattal, Pangot, Jeolikot, Mukteshwar, Ramgarh, Jilling, Ranikhet, Almora, Auli, Kausani, Abbott Mount, Vijaypur, Corbett National Park, Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, Askot Wildlife Sanctuary, Pithoragarh and Munsiyari AIRPORTS

Jolly Grant Airport (Gateway to Garhwal) Airport Director Tel: 0135-2412052 Terminal Manager Tel: 2412051

CISF Control Room Tel: 2412908 W aai.aero Pantnagar Airport (Gateway to Kumaon) Air Traffic Control Tel: 05944-233760 W aai.aero CITY HELPLINES DEHRADUN-GARHWAL REGION

Jolly Grant Airport AIRLINE OFFICES AIR INDIA Tel: 0135-2412929 Customer Care Tel: 18001801407 W airindia.in Origin Delhi INDIGO Tel: 0135-2411133 Customer Care Tel: 0124-6613838 Cell: 09910383838 W goindigo.in Origin: Delhi JET AIRWAYS Tel: 0135-2410143 Customer Care Tel: 1800225522 W jetairways.com Origin: Mumbai, Delhi, Srinagar SPICEJET Tel: 0135-2412808 Customer Care Cell: 09871803333, 09654003333 W spicejet.com Origin: Delhi TAXI/ CAR RENTAL SERVICES DEHRADUN Jolly Grant Airport Taxi Chalak & Malik Samiti Tel: 0135-2412940; Cell: 09756844445 W jollygrant-airport-prepaid-taxicabassociation.com Doon Cabs Cell: 08439999333 W dooncabs.com Uttarakhand 317

Information Saregama Travels Cell: 07088008811 W saregamatravels.com

UT Air operates the Himalayan Heli Safari from Dehradun’s Sahastradhara Helipad and from Haldwani for the Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayas Tel: 0135-2608681, 2114459

PANTNAGAR-KUMAON REGION

Pantnagar Airport AIRLINE OFFICES AIR INDIA Customer Care Tel: 18001801407 Air India Flight Enquiry Tel: 05944-233144 (Service from Delhi: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturdays) W airindia.in TAXI/ CAR RENTAL SERVICES No prepaid cabs, only local cabs, else book ahead with hotel/ tour operators NAINITAL Suniti Tours and Travels Cell: 09568510275 City Office Cell: 07060069933, 09451945541 W sunititravels.com HELI-FLIGHTS Sahastradhara Helipad (Dehradun) Tel: 0135-2608981, 2114459 W ucada.in Pawan Hans offers charter helicopter services for Badrinath and from Sahastradhara Helipad (Dehradun) and Phata to Kedarnath (Char Dham) BOOKINGS Delhi Reservations Tel: 011-24615711 W pawanhans.co.in Rudraprayag Reservations Tel: 01364-256825 Agastyamuni Reservations Tel: 01364-256825 Sahastradhara Helipad Cell: 09410911952 (Dehradun) Phata Reservations Tel: 01364-246325 Tip Services on a first-cum-first-served basis. Operations subject to permissions and weather conditions 318 Uttarakhand

BOOKINGS DEHRADUN GMVNL’s Drona Travels Tel: 0135-2653309, Cell: 09568006635 DELHI Telefax: 011-23712612 Cell: 09971593114 W utair-india.com Tip Services subject to permissions and weather conditions RAIL Uttarakhand’s Garhwal region is connected by rail through Haridwar (Tel: 01334227461) and Dehradun (Tel: 0135-2620131, 2623945) railway stations. Kathgodam (Tel: 05946-266637) railhead serves the Kumaon region. For Corbett NP, Ramnagar (Tel: 05947-251325) is a more convenient railhead and Lansdowne is better accessed via Kotdwar (Tel: 01382-222131) RAIL ENQUIRIES

General Enquiry Tel: 139 (All India) W indianrail.gov.in, irctc.co.in, trainenquiry.com Tip These easy-to-use and comprehensive official Indian Railways websites provide information about reservations, schedules, fares, seat availability and current status and offers online ticket booking for all trains in the country ROAD ISBT Anand Vihar in New Delhi runs regular bus services to the Garhwal and Kumaon regions. Besides, there are many private buses (including Volvos) operating from the ISBT Kashmere Gate Complex to Dehradun UTTARAKHAND/ UP ROADWAYS METRO HELPLINES

ISBT Anand Vihar (Uttarakhand), Delhi Tel: 011-22141611/ 8097/ 3783

Transport Directory ISBT Anand Vihar (UP) Delhi Tel: 22149089 ISBT Kashmere Gate 1 Delhi Tel: 23860560, Gate 2 Tel: 23868641/ 0290

Tanakpur Bus Depot, Main Market; Tel: 05943-265026, Cell: 08476007552 PRIVATE COACH OPERATORS

UTTARAKHAND ROADWAYS HELPLINES

ISBT Dehradun 1, Raj Vihar, Chakrata Road, Dehradun General Enquiry Tel: 0135-2643838, 23131309; Cell: 09411101147 Dehradun Hill Service Cell: 08476007535 ISBT Naintal Nainital Bus Station, Tallital, adjacent to Naini Lake; Tel: 05942-235518 UTTARAKHAND ROADWAYS BUS DEPOTS/ STATIONS (GARHWAL)

Mussoorie, near Dehradun railway station Tel: 0135-2623435, Cell: 08476007535/ 69 Haridwar, opp Railway Station; Tel: 0134227037, Cell: 08476007539, 08476007537 Kotdwara, opp Railway Station Tel: 01382-222005, Cell: 08476007541 Rishikesh, in Main Bazaar Tel: 0135-2430066, Cell: 08476007540 Roorkee, Near IIT Roorkee Tel: 01332-272456, Cell: 08476007542 BUS DEPOTS/ STATIONS (KUMAON)

Almora Bus Depot, Mall Road; Tel: 05962230046, Cell: 08476007548 Bhowali Bus Depot, near Main Market Cell: 08476007546; AGM Cell: 08476007519 Haldwani Bus Depot, Main Market Cell: 08476005701 Kashipur Bus Depot, Main Market Tel: 05947-275327, Cell: 08476007551 Kathgodam Bus Depot, next to Railway Station; Cell: 08476007545 Pithoragarh Bus Depot Tel: 05964-225313, Cell: 08476007554 Ranikhet Bus Depot, near Civil Hospital Cell: 08476007549 Rudrapur Bus Depot, near Nani Park Tel: 05944-243510, AGM Cell: 08476007523 Ramnagar Cell: 08476007547

Many private operators also run deluxe and super-deluxe coaches to and from the ISBTs in Delhi, Dehradun, Rishikesh and Haridwar HIGHWAYS IN UTTARAKHAND

NH7 (Previously NH58) HP Border- Roorkee - Haridwar - Rishikesh - Srinagar - Rudraprayag - Karanprayag - Chamoli - Joshimath - Badrinath - Mana NH9 UP border - Rudrapur - Sitarganj - Khatima - Tanakpur - Champawat - Pithoragarh - Ogla - Askot NH30 Sitarganj - UP Border NH34 UP Border - Haridwar - Rishikesh - Dharasu - Uttarkashi - Bhatwari Gaurikund - Gangotri NH107 Rudraprayag - Kedarnath - Gaurikund NH107A Chamoli - Gopeshwar - Okhimath - Baramwari NH109 (previously NH87) Rudrapur Pantnagar - Kathgodam - Nainital - Almora Ranikhet - Dwarahat - Adi Badri Karnaprayag NH134 Dharasu - Kuthraur - Yamunotri NH307 UP Border - Dehradun NH309 Rudrapur - Kashipur - Ramnagar Dhumakot - Thalisain - Bubakhel - Pauri - Srinagar NH309A Rameshwar - Gangolihat - Berinag - Chaukori - Kanda - Bageshwar - Almora NH309B Almora â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Rameshwar NH334 Haridwar - Roorkee - UP Border NH334A Purkaji - Luxer - Haridwar NH507 Herbertpur - Vikasnagar - Kalsi Lakhwar - Nainbagh - Kuwa - Naugaon - Barkot NH707 HP border - Minus - Tuini - HP border NH707A Tiuni - Chakrata - Mussoorie - New Tehri - Srinagar NH734 UP border - Kashipur n Uttarakhand 319

Photo Credits Front Cover Floating Hut at Tehri Lake uttarakhand Tourism

Back Cover Top: A Comfy Perch at Rajaji T Narayan Below: Lakshman Jhula, Rishikesh Bharat Aggarwal

Inside the Book Ahtushi Deshpande

Page 215: Balcony Camp, Valley of Flowers

Uttarakhand, Raj Bhavan Page 247: Group of people rafting on the Ganga River Shubham Mansingka

Page 4, Right: Tiger at Corbett National Park

Page 114, Top Left: Verdant hillside of Ramgarh; Right: Peach orchards

Bharat Aggarwal

T Narayan

Avigyan Samanta

Page 5, Left: Boats at Bhimtal Lake Page 91: Bhimtal Lake view Bhavan Singh

Page 263, Left: Pinewood fire cooking in a Pauri kitchen Bibek Bhattacharya

Page 202, Right: Bharal on the alpine meadows at Dharansi

Page 191: Elephant safari in Corbett National Park Page 202, Top Right: A honey bee; Below Right: A Butterfly Tribhuvan Tiwari

Page 161: Kedarnath lies close to the source of the Mandakini River

Courtesy Images

JS Adhikari

Ananda-In The Himalayas

Page 5, Right: Jageshwar, a medieval centre of Lakula Shaivism besides the Jata Ganga

Page 6, Left: Woman doing Pranayam Kalmatia Sangam

Page 6 (Right), 26-27, 73, 117 (Top), 153, 179 (Top), 223, 236-237, 245 (Top): Kedarnath Temple

Page 3: Himalayan view from Kalmatia Sangam Page 205, Left: A langur in Binsar Forest; Right: A mountain goat in Binsar Forest

Parth Sanyal

NIM

Page 23: Enroute to Nanda Devi National Park

Page 7, Right: Mountaineers undergoing a training course

LAKSHMAN MISHRA

Sanjoy Ghosh

Page 4, Left: Misty clouds on the hills of Mussorie Page 7, Left: The official residence of the Governor of

Route Planners Graphics: Rajesh KG

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We thank Shubham Mansingka for his conributions to this guidebook.

320 Uttarakhand

Kunjapuri

Chamoli

Auli

Uttarakhand Tourism

Simply Heaven UTTARAKHAND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD Uttarakhand Tourism Dev.Board, Pt.Deendayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,Garhi Cantt. Dehradun-248003(India)

Contact No : 91- 135- 2559898, 2559987, Website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in, www.gmvn.gov.in, www.kmvn.gov.in

Traveller

East Odisha

www.outlooktraveller.com

getaways

Uttarakhand Outlook Traveller Getaways presents an exclusive guide to the scenically beautiful state of Uttarakhand Explore some of the most stunning hill stations in the country, including Bhimtal, Mukteshwar and Lansdowne

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Take the plunge and try your hand at any one of the adventure sports, such as kayaking or skiing, which draw thousands to this state

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Marvel at the mighty Himalayas as you trek across glaciers or find inner peace sitting by the banks of the holy Ganga

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Find comprehensive tourist and travel information in this guide to help you discover each destination and make the most of your travels

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other PoPular tItleS from outlook traveller getawayS

froNt Cover Design Deepak Suri ISBN 978-81-89449-71-1 ■ ` 295

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6 Odisha