Himalayan ascent booklet by Ram Shrestha

EXPEDITIONS & TREKS IN THE

HIMALAYAS

EXPEDITION

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Summit Ridge, Lobuche East, 6119m

Expeditions in the Himalayas Mountaineering is an adventurous and at times very difficult activity, which

time to absorb the unique cultures of the people who live in the harsh

the participant with a sense of achievement, strong friendships and of

mountain spirits. Extended time is also required to ensure adequate

tests one's discipline, endurance and self-belief. It does however reward course stunning and awe-inspiring views.

high Himalayan environment, who work and eat off the lands and respect acclimatisation to the reduced oxygen levels available at high altitude.

Nepal has some of the highest mountains in the world. The largest is of

Climbing in Nepal is accessible to all with a spirit for adventure.

8000m. This impressive mountain range also contains over 1000 mountains

Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when climbing was a specialist

course Mount Everest, but another seven Himalayan giants stand above

above 6000m. The mountains here tower over the highest mountains of Europe, and the North and South Americas. The climbing experience in Nepal is unlike any other in the world.

With the combined difficulties of high altitude and limited road

infrastructure, the journey commonly begins with a slow approach trek to

the base of the mountain. Often this requires enlisting the support of local porters to help carry essential supplies and equipment. Trekking provides

Mountaineering in the Himalayas has evolved from the times of Sir

activity available to the experienced few to now attracting a much larger audience. Protecting exposed sections of a route with fixed rope is the

standard approach on Himalayan peaks today, and has removed the need for prerequisite technical climbing skills for those who wish to tackle the

smaller 6000m mountains. This mountaineering style increases climbing

safety and reduces time spent at high altitude. As such, climbing in Nepal is open to anyone with a dream to experience a summit, and appreciate the view from the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooftop.

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Mount Everest, 8848m

Mount Everest, 8848m The ultimate dream of many mountaineers is to one day take on the biggest mountaineering challenge possible – climbing Mount Everest! Himalayan Ascent provide the necessary framework for expedition members to have a safe, enjoyable trip, with the best possible chance of summiting. This framework includes:   •

Employing an experienced, strong, caring and professionally trained team of Sherpa

•

Creating a small, cohesive team of climbers and Sherpas

•

Strictly vetting the calibre of expedition members

•

Providing a comfortable base camp

•

Staying healthy

guides on the mountain, all with previous Everest experience and summits

We will tackle Mount Everest via the South Col and South East Ridge route. You’ll feel like you’re climbing through history as you pass through and across such infamous features as the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur. Once you’re on the summit push, you’ll look back in awe towards Makalu and Lhotse, and when you’re standing on the South Summit you’ll stare across towards the Hillary Step and the true summit, and know that your dream is within reach.  Only climbers with an extensive resume of high-altitude experience can join this trip, including previous 8000m Himalayan expedition experience. Altitude range: 2840m – 8848m | Duration: 68 days | Route: South Col-South East Ridge For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/everest-expedition.html

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Lhotse, Camp 4

Lhotse, 8516m Sitting quietly alongside Everest and connected by the South Col, Lhotse was previously thought by Sherpas to be a minor peak of Everest, hence its name, Lhotse, meaning “South Peak”. However, Lhotse is by no means a lesser peak or challenge, and some consider it more a climber’s mountain than Everest. This expedition will summit the main peak of Lhotse, the 4th highest point in the world. The climb initially shares the same route as Everest to Camp 3, passing through the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and crossing the Yellow Band. Above the Yellow Band, the route ventures to the right towards rock shelves to Camp 4. The final summit route climbs steeply through the upper Lhotse Face to a couloir that provides fast access to the summit. From the top of the couloir it’s a short but exposed ridge climb to the summit. You must have extensive climbing skills and a considerable level of experience in the Himalayas to join this expedition, preferably with prior 8000m expedition experience. Altitude range: 2840m – 8516m Duration: 55 days Route: Western Cwm-Lhotse West face For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/lhotse-expedition.html

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Makalu from South Ridge of Everest

Makalu, 8463m Makalu or “Big Black” as it is sometimes known is situated just 19km South East from Everest in the Makalu-Barun National Park. It is the 5th highest mountain in the world and was first climbed in 1955, however, few expeditions today climb this mountain due to the technical demands of its summit pyramid. The Makalu-Barun National Park is remote and with few comfort services available when compared to the neighbouring Sagarmatha National Park. Hence, this expedition has additional challenges; attempting Makalu is a considerable undertaking. From Makalu base camp, we will place five camps on the mountain, beginning with an advanced base camp located just across the glacier moraine. The route between Camp 1 to Camp 3 climbs between seracs and crevasses with sections of steep mixed climbing. Camp 4 to the summit is a significant day that involves negotiating a steep ice band, crevasses, a 300m gully and an exposed summit ridge. Given the gravity and difficulty of this expedition, you must have extensive climbing skills and a considerable level of experience in the Himalayas to join this expedition, preferably with experience of an 8000m expedition. Altitude range: 1850m – 8463m Duration: 49 days Route: North West Ridge For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/makalu.html

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Cho Oyu, 8201m

Cho Oyu, 8201m Located 20km to the North West of Mount Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border, Cho Oyu is a true Himalayan giant. At 8201m it is the 6th highest peak in the world and an excellent objective, be it for your once-in-a-lifetime 8000m peak, or as your final preparation before attempting Mount Everest. We tackle the mountain via the North West ridge, which is the original route used by the Austrian team who were the first to climb the mountain in 1952. Access to the mountain is relatively simple, as we drive from Kathmandu, cross the Himalayas and after some acclimatisation stops and day hikes in Tibet, we arrive at Chinese Base Camp. A two-day trek sees us arrive in Advance Base Camp, from where we tackle the mountain via the placement of three camps. The climb on the mountain is relatively straight-forward, with the two cruxes being a short but steep ice-cliff between Camps 1 and 2, and a prolonged and steep rock band directly above Camp 3. Given the extreme altitude, the mountain is a very serious objective and neither the climb nor your preparation for the climb should be taken lightly. You’ll need to be as fit as you can possibly be, and when you’re climbing through the rock band above Camp 3 on your summit push, you’ll understand why! Once we reach the cusp of the summit plateau in the early hours of the morning, you’ll have to summon the energy to cross the wide plateau at over 8100m before finally standing on the main summit. You’ll know when you’re on the summit because you’ll have the most spectacular panorama to take in, including Shishapangma, Gyachung Kang, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, and of course Mount Everest. You must have extensive climbing skills and a considerable level of experience in the Himalayas to join this expedition, preferably with prior 7000m expedition experience. Altitude range: 4900m – 8201m | Duration: 39 days | Route: North West Ridge For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/cho-oyu.html

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Manaslu Base Camp

Manaslu, 8156m Standing as a relatively isolated 8000m peak in Nepal’s central mountain region, Manaslu is the world’s 8th highest mountain. Like Cho Oyu, it’s a good mountain to test extreme high altitude climbing before taking on the Everest challenge. Manaslu is largely a non-technical climb when compared to other 8000m peaks, however, its avalanche-prone slopes mean that careful climbing is required throughout the expedition. You can climb Manaslu as a true sea to summit adventure by trekking in from the village of Arughat, which at an altitude of only 530m is subtropical! The trail to Manaslu closely follows the Budhi Gandaki river, and weaves through Gurung farming villages, bamboo forests and countless waterfalls during summer, before climbing steeply into high alpine Bhotia villages inhabited by Tibetan descendents. This expedition will summit Manaslu via the normal North East face by placing four high camps above base camp. The most technical section is through the icefall between Camps 1 and 2, with some potential for serac fall in certain conditions. The remainder of the route is relatively straight forward, with increasing steep sections from Camp 3 to the summit. You must have extensive climbing skills and a considerable level of experience in the Himalayas to join this expedition, preferably with prior 7000m expedition experience. Altitude range: 530m – 8156m | Duration: 45 days | Route: North East face For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/manaslu.html

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Ama Dablam, 6856m Towering over Tengboche monastery and the Sherpa village of Pangboche at a height of 6856m, Ama Dablam is one of the most iconic mountains in Nepal. The much-coveted South West ridge is one of the more popular routes in the Himalayas today, with climbers often using it as preparation for an expedition to one of the greater 8000m peaks (of course the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective!). Comprised of steep ice and rock with very exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines. We start our acclimatisation when we land in Lukla, and from here we trek through numerous Sherpa villages before arriving in the grassy surrounds of Ama Dablam base camp, which is undoubtedly one of the more scenic base camps in the Himalayas. Above base camp, we place three camps on the mountain, each precariously positioned on the ridge, which means you’ll need to have a good head for heights. Our summit push will begin early in the morning from Camp 3 and hopefully you’ll top out in great weather, as the summit affords spectacular views of numerous Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. This month-long expedition is suited to strong rock climbers and technicallyorientated mountaineers, who have previous experience in the Himalayas or other lower technical peaks in Europe, North and South America or New Zealand. Altitude range: 2840m – 6856m | Duration: 26 days | Route: South West Ridge For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/ama-dablam.html

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Camp 2, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam, 6850m

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Jewels of Everest: Triple Peaks Himalayan Ascent is offering an expedition to tackle some of the less-frequently climbed 6000m trekking peaks of the Khumbu. This is a more adventurous alternative to the heavy traffic commonly found on Island and Mera Peaks. The expedition will teach basic mountaineering skills, and will provide opportunities to climb by fixed rope or alpine style (if conditions permit). We will begin rope training along the trail on rock crags at Namche and Phortse. Our introductory climb will be Pokhalde (5806m), which is primarily a rock ascent just off Kongma La pass. Across the Khumbu glacier on our second and more technically demanding objective, Lobuche East (6119m), we’ll introduce the concept of fixed line climbing. The climb along the summit ridge gives an exhilarating sense of exposure, and also some amazing views towards Mount Everest. We'll descend the mountain confident in our growing ability to tackle our last and hardest challenge, Nirekha (6169m). From the col we’ll climb to the summit ridge, followed by a steep 50-60 degree angle climb to the summit. For climbers with previous rope experience and good fitness, our guides can support an alpine ascent with 3-4 persons per rope. Fixed lines will also be established as a second option. We descend on the other side of the col to Thangnak, before descending back down to Namche and Lukla. This expedition is perfect for Himalayan climbers or trekkers who would like to try something different to the usual trekking peaks, and for experienced rock climbers who are looking to transfer their technical skills onto alpine terrain at high altitude. Altitude range: 2840m – 6169m Duration: 28 days For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/triple-peaks-jewels-of-everest.html

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Mera Peak, 6460m and Island Peak, 6189m via Amphu Laptsa Pass Mera Peak is the classic Himalayan trekking peak. Never steep enough to get too scary, but at a seriously high altitude, Mera Peak is a great introductory climb for those looking to test the waters at high altitude. Island Peak, whilst being a bit lower at 6189m, is a little bit more exposed, allowing you to consolidate the skills you will learn on Mera.  From Lukla we head off the beaten track, cross Zatrwa La pass into the quiet Hinku valley, to Mera peak base camp and Mera La pass. The summit of Mera offers a full Himalayan panorama view, from the Langtang region and Cho Oyu in the west, taking in Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest, Baruntse, and Makalu, to Kangchenjunga in the far east. We then head into the even quieter Hunku valley to experience true Himalayan wilderness! We spend a day crossing the high and tricky Amphu Laptsa pass before entering the popular Khumbu valley to our second challenge of Island Peak. As we trek down the Khumbu, we will pass through numerous Sherpa settlements including Pangboche and Tengboche. Previous trekking and camping experience is recommended if you want to join this trip. Altitude range: 2840m – 6460m | Duration: 28 days For dates, prices, details and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/expeditions/mera-and-island-peaks-via-the-amphu-laptsa.html

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TREKS

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TREKKING IN THE HIMALAYAS Trek into the Himalayas, abode of the snow. Though a small nation of only 147,181 km2, Nepal packs plenty; it’s the original Himalayan trekking experience and still, a true trekkers delight! From established trail routes through classic valleys to remote restricted regions with untouched cultures, Nepal provides a unique richness unfound in any other country. Trails often wind through varied altitudes, climates, landscapes and cultures; providing a diverse snapshot of Nepal’s Himalayas, its people, culture and environment that is sure to inspire everyday. Himalayan Ascent believes in trekking local. Our treks follow traditional trails that link high mountain villages using locally owned teahouses where possible to boost the local economy. We run small groups led by experienced guides at a comfortable pace to facilitate acclimatisation at high altitude. Our treks also offer additional twists and challenges to ensure you experience the very best of the world’s highest mountain range.

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Everest Base Camp Classic Plus The most famous trek in the world through the most famous Himalayan valley in the world. Overrated? Not a chance! When you fly into Lukla and step out onto the trail, there’s an immediate buzz knowing that it leads to the highest mountain in the world. You follow in the steps of famous adventurers including Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, through a history that continues to attract many climbers to take on the Everest challenge. This classic trek passes through various alpine climates and explores the traditional Sherpa farming village of Phortse, before reaching Everest base camp at the foot of the infamous Khumbu Icefall. In spring during Everest climbing season, Himalayan Ascent can offer you a view into Everest climbing culture by including a night’s stay at base camp. This rare opportunity will allow you to appreciate up close the logistical operation, mentality and physicality demands required to climb the world’s highest mountain. The trip on the return will include a summit of Kala Pattar for excellent views of Everest and Lhotse, and Tengboche monastery. Altitude range: 2840m - 5550m | Duration: 19 days For dates, prices and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/treks/everest-base-camp-trek.html

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The Best of Annapurna The Annapurna region is Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original trekkers playground. This trek

close view of Dhaulagiri (8167m, 7th highest mountain) with a steep face

journeys through the best parts of the Annapurna range with spectacular

that plunges into the Kali Gandakhi River, creating the deepest gorge

views of the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri mountains. We will follow old

in the world. A day hike north east of camp will bring us to Khayer Lake

foot trails used by hardy Gurung and Magar hill tribes who live here in the

(~4000m), a sacred lake worshipped by locals during the Badau Purnima

temperate forests amongst rhododendron trees, farming on steep terraces

festival. Our trail finally winds down to Ghorepani for sunrise views of the

growing staples of maize and millet.

Annapurna Range from Pun Hill, before we trek back towards Pokhara.

From Pokhara weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll trek first towards Annapurna base camp in the heart of

Altitude range: 1770m â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4130m

the Annapurna sanctuary to enjoy an arena view of the four Annapurnas

Duration: 20 days

(I, 8091m 10th highest mountain and II-IV) and other peaks all above 7000m. We will then return to Chimrong, and from here head west through

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alpine forests to Kopra ridge. The camp on Kopra hill offers exceptional

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panoramic views of the entire Annapurna range including a fearsome

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Manaslu Circuit Quietly tucked away in the centre of Nepal along the Tibetan border, between two of Nepal’s more popular national parks is the protected Manaslu Conservation Area. Despite being situated above Nepal’s most historic city, Gorkha (origins of Nepal’s first king) and being home to its namesake Himalayan giant, Manaslu, this region is only just beginning to gain trekking popularity. Unlike other popular trails in Nepal, this trail begins close to sea level in a subtropical climate at 530m! After a few days following the Budhi Gandaki River upstream passing through Gurung farming villages, we climb steeply into low and high alpine climates, and into lands inhabited by Bhotia people (Tibetan descendents). Here, you will be rewarded with stunning views of Manaslu. We will day hike to Manaslu base camp to enjoy the world’s 8th highest mountain up close and a beautiful glacier lake. The trail continues westwards crossing Larkya La pass, a snow traverse at our highest point, and we then walk out down through the Marshandgi valley and Magar villages. The significant altitude range involved in this trek requires good fitness. Some days include long steep ascents and descents, through remote and less tourist serviced sections. Altitude range: 530m - 5213m | Duration: 18 days For dates, prices and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/treks/manaslu-trek.html

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Everest Circuit This trek takes you through the most beautiful and awe-inspiring regions of the Sagarmatha National Park. From the world’s highest glacier lakes in the Gokyo Valley to the base camp of Nepal’s most famous geographic wonder, Mount Everest, this trail journeys into the heartland of the Sherpa people. Sherpas live in this rolling landscape of lush low alpine vegetation (awash with colourful rhondodendron and magnolia trees in spring) and dry high altitude scrubland, alongside the highest mountains in the world. This adventure will provide an insight into their rich Buddhist culture and their traditional way of life. Sights of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Cho Oyu will dominate the landscape from the trail. The route begins from Lukla and follows the Dudh Kosi River through farming villages of Tamang, Rai and Sherpa communities. It then ascends to Namche, the capital and traditional trading centre of the Sherpas. We trek first to the Gokyo Valley and summit Gokyo Ri for dramatic views of the Gokyo lakes and Nzogompa Glacier (the longest in Nepal). We journey next into the Khumbu via a high pass glacier traverse of Cho La (5330m) towards Everest base camp. After a close inspection of the Khumbu Icefall, we’ll return to Gorak Shep to prepare for an early morning summit of Kala Pattar (5550m), from where we will enjoy an unobstructed impressive vista of Everest and Lhotse. Altitude range: 2840m - 5550m | Duration: 21 days For dates, prices and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/treks/everest-circuit-trek.html

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The Very Best of Everest This adventure is our most comprehensive and all compassing journey in the Sagarmatha National Park, and includes a rewarding summit of Lobuche East (6119m). You will hike through the park’s most popular areas as well as its least explored areas with hidden sights and untouched cultures. This trip will challenge an enthusiastic hiker over high passes, offer a beginner’s mountaineering experience and provide a glimpse into the quiet and rich culture of Sherpa people. The trek passes through varied landscapes ranging from lush low alpine forests to dry high alpine scrubland, and over rocky glacier moraines and snowy passes. From viewpoints on passes and summits, you’ll be rewarded with aweinspiring sights of four of Nepal’s 8000m peaks (Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu) and serene blue glacier lakes. Our journey first heads into the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp, and the summit of Kala Pattar for close views of Everest and Lhotse. We’ll next prepare to summit Lobuche East, a trekking peak that requires no prior mountaineering experience. Our experienced guides will train you at base camp on basic Himalayan climbing technique including ascending and descending on fixed lines. The climb from base camp will be broken with a night stay at high camp (5300m) that offers incredible sunrise and sunset views of the valley. From here, the trail then crosses into the Gokyo valley via a glacier traverse of Cho La pass to the Gokyo lakes. You will summit Gokyo Ri, another vantage viewpoint, before crossing Renjo La pass that

quite possibly showcases the best of Nepal’s highest peaks. This section of the trail sees less tourist traffic and allows a true glimpse of traditional Sherpa culture. Altitude range: 2840m - 6119m | Duration: 27 days For dates, prices and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/treks/best-of-everest.html

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Upper Dolpo and Lower Mustang Upper Dolpo is difficult to reach and is very arid. Few people live in the harsh climate. They are farmers, traders and shepherds, often all in one because this is the only way to survive. We pass through a great variation of scenery between Dolpo and Mustang, rice and wheat fields, incredible mountains and a high altitude desert, all in the rain shadow of the Himalaya. The variation makes this trek very interesting. Foreigners have ‘discovered’ Dolpo only recently. Peter Matthiessen was one of the first to document the region in his book, “The Snow Leopard”, which describes his journey searching for the elusive snow leopard and rare Himalayan blue sheep. Dolpo and Mustang are restricted areas with limited trekking infrastructure and high permit fees. Consequently, this has deterred most trekkers but it has also preserved the true culture and wilderness of this region. This is a camping-based trek that begins in lower Dolpo, through dense forests to reach the spectacular Phoksundo Lake. From here, the trail continues northwards into remote Upper Dolpo resting first at Shey to visit Shey Gompa, the main monastery of Dolpo. The trail continues further north into a wild desert landscape via several high passes to reach within three kilometres of the Tibetan border. We then turn southeast towards lower Mustang using traditional rough trails to end in Jomson. Most trails are wild and areas are uninhabited. Previous experience trekking and camping in such conditions is recommended for this trek. Altitude range: 2250m - 5360m | Duration: 28 days For dates, prices and options, visit www.himalayanascent.com/treks/upper-dolpo-trek.html

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Shey Phoksundo Lake

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About Himalayan Ascent Himalayan Ascent is owned and managed by local Nepalese guides, Sumit Joshi and Lakpa Sherpa. With more than 40 years of guiding experience between the pair across the Himalayas in Nepal, Tibet, India, Pakistan and Bhutan, Himalayan Ascent know the Himalayas, its challenges, people and mountains.

Sumit Joshi

As avid rock climbers with a passion for the mountains, Sumit and Lakpa have led numerous expeditions to Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Baruntse, Dorje Lakpa and Ama Dablam. Raised in the outdoor wonderland of the Solukhumbu, the Himalayan Ascent difference is a guiding and support team of personnel who are intimately familiar with the Himalayas, who actively enjoy the outdoors and love sharing the experience with others. With a growing reputation for providing affordable, international standard complete guiding service for challenging treks in remote areas or demanding 8000m expeditions, Himalayan Ascent has the experience to deliver

Lakpa Sherpa

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the type of service thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desired by international outdoor adventurers.

Why Himalayan Ascent? These days there are many different expedition outfitters and guiding services available to prospective Himalayan climbers and trekkers, and it can be difficult to choose which one to go with. A large Western-owned company or a generic budget Nepalese company? Himalayan Ascent is neither. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a local company, small group focused, run by adventurers for adventurers with international standard service. As a climber, if you are happy to climb with a large Western-owned operation where the size of your team may number in excess of 15 clients, and where you are unlikely to experience any interaction with Sherpa guiding or support staff, then Himalayan Ascent may not be for you. However, if you are keen to climb in an intimate setting with a small group, where you interact and get to know your Sherpa staff personally, then Himalayan Ascent is what you've been looking for. If you appreciate a friendly and chilled out atmosphere, Sherpa guides who live and breathe mountaineering, in addition to the thrill of climbing your mountain objective, then we encourage you to contact us and discuss the expedition options available to you.

Summit Mt. Everest, May 17, 2010

fulfill your Himalayan trekking ambitions. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re interested to follow a classic route with added challenges

As a trekker, if you are looking to enjoy a trip safely and comfortably

and sights, or explore remote wilderness and interact with

with knowledgeable friendly guides, Himalayan Ascent can help you

local cultures, we can help you find your matching trip.

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Himalayan Ascent

P.O. Box 3885, Bansbari-3, Kathmandu, Nepal | Tel: (977) 1 4379509 | info@himalayanascent.com

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