Š Pasang Sherpa
Š Pasang Sherpa
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NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION
Introduction Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973 (2030 Kartik 16). It is a non-governmental, non-profit and non-political organization working as a national alpine association of Nepal to promote mountain tourism, climbing sports, protect mountain environments and preserve and promote cultural heritage of mountain people. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal.
The Government of Nepal authorized NMA on 18th January 1978 to issue permits for 18 Himalayan peaks of between 5,587 and 6,654 meters in the areas of Manang, Annapurna, Langtang, and Khumbu. On 16th September 2002, NMA was awarded the additional responsibility of issuing mountaineering permits for 15 additional peaks making 33 peaks in total. In this regard, NMA is proud to publish a book containing information about all the peaks managed by NMA. The publication of this book is another way of the NMA’s major steps in disseminating mountain information about the Nepal Himalaya. I hope this booklet will be of great help for all the mountaineers, trekking companies, students and other individuals interested in alpinism in the Himalayas. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to the Central Working Committee and the Convener of the Environment Conservation Committee and its members for taking the initiative in publishing this book. My appreciation also goes to all of those who have contributed from their own sector to publish this revealing and useful book. Thank you,
Message from the President
Zimba Zangbu Sherpa President 13 August 2012
Š Asian Trekking
Group 'A' NMA Trekking Peaks
Contents
08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Cholatse Machermo Kyazo Ri Nirekha Langsisa Ri Ombigaichen Bokta Chekigo
24 26 28 30 32 34 36
Phari Lapcha Lobuje West Larkya Peak Abi Yubra Himal Yala Chhukung Ri
Group 'B' NMA Trekking Peaks
38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) Mera Peak Kusum Kangru Kwangde Chulu West Imja Tse (Island Peak) Pharchamo Lobuje Ramdung
56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72
Pisang Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) Khongma Tse (Mehara Peak) Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) Pokhalde Mardi Himal Paldor Hiunchuli Chulu East
Š Asian Trekking
Cholatse (6,440 m)
Those who have descended towards Gokyo from Renjo La, or have climbed up Gokyo Ri, will remember the view towards Cholatse on the opposite side of the valley. It’s a stunning, laid-back-looking peak composed of steep faces and narrow snow and ice ridges. Unlike many of the trekking peaks, all routes to its summit involve sustained technical difficulty and for this reason Cholatse has attracted many of the world’s best mountaineers to attempt new, highly challenging routes. Permits were first issued in spring 1982 and the peak was first scaled soon after. It was the last formally named but unclimbed peak in the Khumbu region. On April 22nd Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley and Bill O’Connor reached the summit via the South West Ridge. The South West Ridge is perhaps the easiest route on the peak and it was only repeated in
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Jobo Lhaptshan
Days 1 to 6: Fly from Kathmandu to
Permit group: A
Lukla and trek via Namche Bazaar
The North East Face was successfully scaled in 1984 and the first solo
Height: 6440m - 21128ft
to Cholatse Base Camp. There is
ascent was accomplished on April 15, 2005 by Ueli Steck. Remarkably he
Latitude: 27.90265900
reached the summit via a direct line in a 37 hour push from base camp with a
Longitude: 86.76929000
single night’s bivouac on the face.
Location: Khumbu
1993, again in 2005 and rarely since then. The South East Ridge was first climbed in same year.
Duration: 16 Days
plenty of opportunity to explore the villages and monasteries on a steady acclimatisation itinerary. Days 7 to 12: Climbing period. Days 13 to 16: Return trek to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.
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Š Asian Trekking
Machermo (6,237 m)
Machermo has a steep north face on which climbing is predominately challenging, technical rock. It is situated at Mahalangur region and reached on the trail from Namche Bazaar to Gokyo. The trail to base camp leads through yak pasture and base camp is set up above the rocky meadows and moraine at around 5,140 m. The summit of this Peak provides stunning views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse Shar, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Kyajo Ri
Days 1 to 6: Fly from Kathmandu to
Permit group: A
Lukla and trek via Namche Bazaar
Height: 6237m - 20462ft
to Machermo Base Camp. A steady
Latitude: 27.90903000 Longitude: 86.67118500
acclimatisation itinerary will include glaciers, lakes, Sherpa villages and a climb of Gokyo Ri.
Location: Khumbu Duration: 16 Days
Days 9 to 11: Climbing period. Days 12 to 16: Return trek to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.
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11
Š Pasang Sherpa
Kyazo Ri (6,186 m)
Kyazo Ri (6,186 m) is situated in the Khumbu Himal just north of Namche Bazaar. It is the highest summit of a long line of peaks that separate the Thame Valley to the west and Gokyo Valley to the east and run all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal-Tibet border. This is a classic trekking peak, seldom climbed, with a wonderfully isolated base camp. It’s technically pleasing for experienced climbers and the summit day’s climbing has been compared to that of Ama Dablam, though at only 6,186 m it requires much less acclimatization (and therefore time to do). The normal route is south-facing, catching the sun, and has few objective hazards such as rockfall or avalanche. Basecamp is in a pristine, hidden valley known as the Kyajo Drangka, which requires a long hike to reach it from Mende, about 4 km from Namche Bazaar. See the fourth edition of the guide book “Trekking in the Everest Region” for a description.
Peak Facts Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-6: Flight to Lukla from
Reaching Camp 1 from Base Camp is a long day over rough, but non-
Height: 6186m - 20295ft
Kathmandu. Trek to Namche Bazaar,
technical terrain. Camp 2 is a shorter distance from Camp 1 but the terrain
Latitude: 27.90903000
the capital of the Sherpa people. The
Longitude: 86.67118500
trek to the seclude base camp begins
Location: Khumbu
from here.
Duration: 18 Days
Days: 7-14: Climbing.
includes difficult scree and giant boulders. From Camp 2 to the summit is 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, most of which require belaying, with one or two steep pitches of up to 65° gradient just below the summit.
Days 15-18: Trek out to Lukla.
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Š Asian Trekking
Nirekha (6,159 m)
Nirekha (6,159 m) is located in the Khumbu region close to the well-known Cho La crossing between Gokyo and Lobuche. This peak lies just west of Lobuche West It’s a great route for experienced alpine climbers. The ascent is mostly on ice and snow but demands good fitness and acclimatization as most of the difficult climbing is above 5,800 m. Though the peak can be reached via the valley above Dragnag on the route to the Cho La pass, it is easier and safer to start at Kanchung Base Camp (5,250 m) near the Gaunara Glacier. The summit is reachable in nine hours from there in good conditions. Both routes converge on the Cho La Col (5,690 m) and continue along the
Peak Facts
West-Ridge that consists of snow and loose rock getting continually steeper
Permit group: A
towards the summit. There are two distinct summits of near equal height and
Height: 6159 m - 20206 ft
the South Summit is easier to reach.
Trek to Namche Bazaar and on towards
Latitude: 27.95950000
Gokyo and its beautiful lakes. After the
Longitude: 86.78994400
crossing the Cho La (pass) with its
Location: Khumbu
incredible view of Everest, descend to
Duration: 18 Days
Itinerary Days 1-9: Fly to Lukla from Kathmandu.
Dragnag then Kanchung Base Camp. Days 10-14: Climbing. Days 15-18: Return to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu. The itinerary can easily be made longer to include a visit to Everest Base Camp.
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15
Š Asian Trekking
Langsisa Ri (6,427 m)
Langsisa Ri used to be a full expedition peak until the Government of Nepal put it under the control of the NMA in 2002. It is situated in the popular Langtang trekking region and is a technically challenging peak being perhaps one of the most difficult of the trekking peaks after Kusum Kanguru. Langsisa Ri is ideal for those who want a Himalayan expedition-style challenge with a very simple, affordable permit system. Langtang also has the advantage of quick access from Kathmandu with plenty of small peaks to explore and acclimatize on.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Sometimes spelled (and pronounced) as Langshisa Ri
Days 1-7: Travel from Kathmandu to
Permit group: A Height: 6427m - 21085ft Latitude: 28.21702500 Longitude: 85.71408700 Location: Langtang
Syabru Besi. Trek to Kyanjin Gompa via the jungly gorge of the Langtang river. Continue along the flat Langtang Valley on to Langsisa Ri Base Camp. Days 8-14: Climbing. Days 15-19: Return to Kathmandu.
Duration: 19 Days
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17
Š Asian Trekking
Ombigaichen (6,340 m)
Ombigaichen is a striking mountain located 2.3km south-east of Ama Dablam on the long ridge that connects Ama Dablam with Baruntse. It is the peak that all Ama Dablam climbers state they would love to climb one day. It is seldom climbed, however, with only four expeditions attempting it from 2006 to 2010. Only two successful expeditions have ever been reported. Ombigaichen was first climbed by an expedition lead by Edmund Hillary, with James Milledge (UK) and Ang Tshering Sherpa (Nepal) reaching the summit on 18th November 1960 via the North-West Ridge. On 3rd December 2002, a British expedition led by Victor Saunders, reached the summit via the South Ridge.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: The first summitters called it Puma or Pema Dablam (“Daughter Dablam�) although it is ambiguous whether this refers to unnamed Peak 6,430 m located 1.5 km further north-east.
Days 1-7: Fly from Kathmandu to
Permit group: A
Monastery. Reach Ombigaichen
Height: 6340m - 20800ft
Base Camp.
Latitude: 27.85285100 Longitude: 86.88344500 Location: Khumbu Duration: 15 Days
Lukla. Trek to Namche Bazaar and on to Tengboche Monastery at 3860m. Continue to Ama Dablam Base Camp after making a puja in Pangboche
Days 8-10: Climbing. Days 11-15: Return to Lukla and Kathmandu.
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19
Š Jamie McGuinness
Bokta (6,143 m)
Bokta (6,143 m) is an intimidating peak in the Kanchenjunga region in Eastern Nepal. Accomplished 8,000 m mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria says that the Kanchenjunga region is her favourite place in Nepal, “I love it because it’s so wild!” The west side of Bokta is steep and technical, and the eastern side has no straightforward route either. The most promising route is via the col to the north of the mountain. From a high camp at the col, the route follows the snow slope from under the right shoulder to the summit. While the slope is moderately steep, the route suffers exposure to rock fall. This challenging peak can be climbed by serious mountaineers in good conditions. Bokta’s first ascent was by a Slovenian team in 1991.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
It is a great addition to the wild Kanchenjunga trek. The region is quite
Permit group: A
different to the other climbing areas mentioned, with many fewer trekkers.
Height: 6143m - 20154ft
The local Rai, Limbu and Sherpa make excellent Tongba, a fermented
Taplejung. Trek along the Tamur river to the
Latitude: 27.62133800
pretty village of Ghunsa where the valley widens
millet drink, and many grow the spice Cardamon which has brought
Longitude: 88.00482300
bringing snowy tops into view. Continue to
wealth to the area.
Location: Kanchanjunga
Pangpema from where Kanchenjunga is visible
Duration: 26 Days
Days 1-17: Fly to Biratnagar and drive to
from the north. Return crossing the Lapsang La and head to Bokta Base Camp. Days 18-20: Climbing. Days 21-26: Return via Lamite Bhanjyang through Mamankhe and other beautiful Limbu villages to reach the airstrip at Suketar.
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Š Pasang Sherpa
Chekigo (6,257 m)
Chekigo (6,257 m) is located in the Gaurishankar Himal and the trek in lies upon the Great Himalaya Trail. Interestingly, the location of the nearby peak of Gaurishankar (7,134 m) sets the meridian for peculiar Nepal Standard Time, which is exactly 5 hours and 45 minutes ahead of GMT. The climbing permits were first issued for Mt. Chekigo in 2002 and between 2006 and 2010 it had seen only eight small-sized groups attempting its reasonably challenging summit. It is a peak with great aesthetic appeal. Set in the wilds of the Rolwaling Valley, the Chekigo climb, combined with a crossing of the Tashi Labsta, makes for an excellent Himalayan climbing experience.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Also spelled Chekijo.
Days 1-7: Drive to Dolakha and trek
Permit group: A
small farming village of Beding and rest
Height: 6257m - 20528ft
for acclimatization.
Latitude: 27.90747600
into the Rolwaling Valley. Reach the
Days 8-17: Climbing.
Longitude: 86.41425100 Location: Rolwaling Duration: 22 Days
Days 18-22: Return trek to Dolakha. A very popular alternative is to cross the Tashi Labsta to enter the Everest Region and fly out of Lukla.
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23
Š Asian Trekking
Phari Lapcha (6,017 m)
Phari Lapcha (6,017 m), is a peak in the Mahalangur range and lies just south-west of the popular trekking area of the Gokyo Valley. Phari Lapcha was only added to the permitted trekking peak list in 2002. It has since become popular among talented climbers as it offers extremely challenging, alpine-style, kilometer-tall lines on steep mixed ice and rock at a relatively low altitude. Phari Lapcha itself has two summits and the East Summit (5,977 m) is slightly lower than the main top. Phari Lapcha is sometimes confused with Dawa Peak (5,920 m) to the north-west of the main summits, and has been called Phari Lapcha West though it is arguably an entirely separate peak. The first official ascent of the mountain was made in the spring of 2003 by Slovenians Juliana and Rey Marcelo Belo with Sherpa support via the south side of the mountain.
Peak Facts Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-6: Flight from Kathmandu to
Since then there have been a handful of new technical routes put up on the
Height: 6017m - 19740ft
Lukla. Trek to Namche Bazaar and
mountain – none of them easy – with names such as Bonfire Of The Vanities,
Latitude: 27.92916600
rest to acclimatize. Enter the Gokyo
The end of the beginning and Independence Day.
Longitude: 86.68092700
Valley and reach base camp close to
Location: Khumbu
Gokyo Lake.
Duration: 18 Days
Days 7-15: Climbing. Days 16-18: Return trek to Lukla and flight to Kathmandu.
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Š Asian Trekking
Lobuje West (6,145 m)
The Lobuje mountain consists of East and West summits. A ridge connects them but there is a sharp drop and a considerable distance between them making an attempt from the East summit all but impossible. Lobuje West was first attempted and climbed in 1955 via the South Shoulder. Since then the mountain has been climbed several times usually approaching from the east.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Also spelled Lobuche
Days 1-9: Flight to Lukla and
Permit group: A
day’s acclimatization. Trek via the
Height: 6145m - 20160ft
Tengboche Monastery to Lobuche
Latitude: 27.95950000
West Base Camp.
Longitude: 86.78994400
Days 11-14: Climbing.
Location: Khumbu Duration: 18 Days
trek in to Namche Bazaar with a
Days 15-18: Return trek to Lukla.
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27
Š Paulo Grobel
Larkya Peak (6,249 m)
Larkya Peak is a very satisfying peak to climb in combination with the Manaslu Circuit Trek. It offers fairly easy climbing with fabulous views of Manaslu, the Annpurnas, Ganesh Himal and beyond. There is often confusion however about which peak it is and groups are often lead up a steep line to a subsidiary peak known as Sano (small) Larkya (5,807 m). Base camp is close to the Larkya La, a pass of 5,135 m. Sano Larkya Peak can be climbed in a long day from this base camp. However, to climb Thulo (big) Larkya (6,249 m), a high camp is needed. Reaching this true Larkya Peak is a long but easy climb on snow slopes that are slightly less steep than Sano Larkya Peak. The best option for climbers is to make a high camp and then complete both peaks.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Also spelled Larkye Peak.
Days 1-8: Bus ride from Kathmandu to
Permit group: A
gorge of the Budi Gandaki river on the
Height: 6249m - 20501ft
Manaslu Circuit Trek. As the valley widens,
Latitude: 28.64585400
Manaslu comes stunningly into view. Visit
Longitude: 84.53228500 Location: Manaslu Duration: 15 Days
Arughat and begin trekking along the winding
Manaslu Base Camp and Rui La (4,998 m) for acclimatization. Reach base camp just below the Larkya La pass at 5,135 m. Days 9-11: Set up base camp, high camp and reach summits. Day 12-15: Trek out to road-head on the Annapurna Circuit.
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Š Akunamatata
Abi (6,097 m)
The name Abi refers to the twin peaks of Cholo (6,097 m) and Kangchung (6,063 m) which lie at the northern end of the splendid Gokyo Valley and both can be climbed under one permit. While the peaks look spectacular, the climbing on their respective ridges from the col between them is steep but straightforward. The peaks are best approached from the southern side and a base camp can be made after breaking off from the trekking route to Cho La (5,330 m). However, both peaks can be approached from the north side as illustrated in the photograph.
Peak Facts Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-9: Fly to Lukla from Kathmandu.
Height: 6097 m - 20003 ft
Trek to Namche Bazaar and on towards
Latitude: 27.93791500
Everest base Camp for acclimatization.
Longitude: 86.79747960
After crossing the Cho La (pass) with
Location: Khumbu
its incredible view of Everest, descend
Duration: 16 Days
from the pass to make a base camp. Days 10-12: Climbing. Days 13-16: Trek out to Lukla directly, or via Renjo La and Thame Valley.
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31
Š Asian Trekking
Yubra Himal (6,035 m)
The fin-like ridge of Yubra is only just visible over the Lirung Glacier from Kyanjin Gompa. Take the short hike up to Kyanjin Ri (4,773 m) however and the view of the route to the peak opens up. From Kyanjin Gompa the approach follows the right side of Lirung Glacier to reach the end of the steep Yubra Glacier. Avoiding the ice, the route follows a steep gully far to the left which requires some scrambling and hand work to climb. The glacier flattens out in a snowy cwm which can be crossed to make a high camp. The ridge can be joined from the northern most edge at the head of the glacier. A 2am start should bring climbers to the summit around 9am. Fixed ropes might be necessary on some sections of the ridge. Needless to say, the views towards the surrounding peaks, Ganesh Himal
Peak Facts
and into Tibet are fantastic.
Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-6: Drive from Kathmandu to
Height: 6035 m - 19799 ft
Despite its technical appeal and stunning location, it’s a peak that is seldom
the mouth of the Langtang Valley and
Latitude: 28.272032
trek up to Kyanjin Gompa where you’ll
visited. At the time of writing, there were no clear reports available of
Longitude: 85.570235
rest and acclimatize on the small
commercial teams reaching the summit.
Location: Langtang
surrounding peaks.
Duration: 14 Days
Days 7-10: Move to high camp and climb Yubra. Days 11-14: Return to Kathmandu.
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33
Š Pasang Sherpa
Yala (5,732 m)
Yala Peak lies very close to the Tibetan border, north-east of Kyangin Gompa (3,870 m) in the Langtang Valley. This peak is usually climbed in two days from Kyanjin Gompa with a high camp at Yala Kharka (4,900 m). It’s also possible to do it in a single long day with a pre-dawn start and with good acclimatisation. While it is one of the easiest trekking peaks to scale, and often climbed as preparation for Naya Kanga (5,844 m), the summit is renowned for being an excellent viewpoint. Langtang Lirung (7,227 m) catches the dawn sunlight to the west as does Ganja La Chuli to the south. To the north lies Yansa Tsenji (6,500 m) on the Nepal-Tibet border. To the north-east the beautiful and steep Morimoto Peak (6,750 m) can be seen with the huge bulk of Shishapangma (8,013 m) behind it in the distance in Tibet. To the east are the mountains at the end of the Langtang Valley, Langshisa Ri (6,800 m) and the graceful sweep of the
Peak Facts Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-6: Drive from Kathmandu to
Height: 5732 m - 18805 ft
the mouth of the Langtang Valley
Latitude: 27.95950000
and trek along forested river banks to
All in all, if you want a feeling of being right up in the Himalayas, with few
Longitude: 86.78994400
Kyanjin Gompa where you’ll rest and
people around, and without experiencing too much technical difficulty, Yala
Location: Langtang
acclimatize.
Peak is a great choice.
Duration: 18 Days
Days 7-8: Trek to base camp and climb
West Face of Ganchenpo (6,387 m).
to summit. Days 9-12: Return to Kathmandu.
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Š Asian Trekking
Chhukung Ri (5,550 m)
Chhukung Ri is a rocky peak, similar to Kala Pattar, above the village of Chhukung in the Khumbu Region. It takes approximately three to four hours to reach the summit from Chukkung and it requires no technical expertise. It is often used, wisely, as an acclimatisation trip by people going on to climb Imja Tse (Island Peak) rather than as a peak in its own right. The summit though gives astounding views of Imja Tse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and of Nuptse from a unique and up-close perspective and it is a worthwhile addition to any climbing or trekking itinerary in the Khumbu region.
Peak Facts Permit group: A
Itinerary Days 1-7: Fly from Kathmandu.
Height: 5550m - 18208ft
Trek to Chhukhung from Lukla via
Latitude: 27.92605700
Namche Bazaar.
Longitude: 86.879196 Location: Khumbu Duration: 14 Days
Day 8: Climb to Chhukhung Ri. Days 9-14: Continue to Everest Base Camp or Kala Pattar and return to Lukla.
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37
Š Pasang Sherpa
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) (6,501 m)
Singu Chuli (6,501 m) is a striking mountain that stands right in the centre of the Annapurna Sanctuary separating the West and South Annapurna Glaciers. While many commercial groups head to its much easier neighbour Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak), Singu Chuli remains a challenge reserved for experienced climbers. The first ascent was made by Wilf Noyce and David Cox on its North-East Face and the top section of the East Ridge in 1957 and gave it the name Fluted Peak. Various routes are possible but the South Ridge is the most attractive line. Singu Chuli makes for fabulous, easy to access, low-cost Himalayan climbing in the centre of the awe-inspiring natural amphitheatre of the Annapurna Sanctuary.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Fluted Peak
Days 1-6: Fly or drive from Kathmandu
Permit group: B
to Pokhara and drive on to Birethanti
Height: 6501m - 21328ft
from where you begin the famous
Latitude: 28.58333300 Longitude: 83.90000000
trek up to the impressive Annapurna Sanctuary and the base camp for Annapurna.
Location: Annapurna Duration: 16 Days
Days 7-10: Reach Singu Chuli base camp, high camp and summit. Days 11-16: Return trek to Pokhara and drive to Kathmandu.
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39
Š Pasang Sherpa
Mera Peak (6,654 m)
Mera Peak lies to the south of Everest and to the north-east of the airstrip at Lukla, standing prominently between the wilderness valleys of Hinku and Hongu. Mera Peak is second only to Island Peak (6,173 m) in popularity with nearly 6,000 people attempting it between 2006 and 2010. Its popularity comes from the fact that five of the world’s 14, 8,000 m mountains are visible in the near distance from the summit and getting to the summit from base camp is considered not much more than a mountain walk across a crevassed glacier. Its high altitude must be respected, however, and acclimatisation must be done at the recommended pace ideally reaching the summit 12 days after leaving Lukla. Many people fail to reach the summit because of this – there is
Peak Facts
no quick way to climb a mountain of this height.
Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-9: Fly to Lukla from Kathmandu
Height: 6654m - 21830ft
Sen Tenzing and Jimmy Roberts made the first successful ascent of Mera
and begin the walk to base camp
Latitude: 27.70000000
Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route. Mera
through green terraced villages, over
Longitude: 86.86666700
rushing rivers on suspension bridges
has two summits. The easier one attempted by most groups, is accessed
Location: Khumbu
beneath towering peaks. Cross two
by taking a higher line to the eastern summit with its steep last 20 m or so.
Duration: 17 Days
The true summit can either be reached by a drop and traverse, beyond many people by this stage, or by initially taking a more westerly lower line out of the high camp for a steep haul to the true summit. There are many options for perfecting acclimatisation. If flying to Lukla,
high passes before a final high pass of 5,300 m, the Mera La, reveals base camp. Rest and further acclimatize. Days 10-12: Climbing. Days 13-17: Return to trek to Lukla and flight to Kathmandu.
perhaps first trek to Everest Base Camp, then cross the Amphu Labtsa (5,780 m), or simply make a short detour to bustling Namche Bazaar first.
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41
Š Asian Trekking
Kusum Kangru (6,367 m)
The name Kusum Kangru comes from Tibetan meaning “Three Snow-White Gods�. At 6,367 m, Kusum Kangru dominates the southern end of Charpati Himal and separates the valleys of the churning Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka. The mountain is complex having at least five major ridges and faces, the most spectacular of which is the North face of the main summit. It is one of the most difficult of the trekking peaks to climb. The first successful ascent of the main summit was made by Bill Denz of New Zealand on 7th October 1981 via the South-West buttress. He also completed the first solo climb and traverse of the mountain, descending via the northwest flank. A Japanese team had previously reached a subsidiary northeast summit on 9th October 1979
Peak Facts Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-7: Trek in following the Mera
A 1988 British Expedition led by Nick Mason conquered the previously
Height: 6367 m - 20889 ft
Peak itinerary to reach the south side
unclimbed East Face. In subsequent years new routes have been opened but
Latitude: 27.73055600
of the mountain. Those climbing north-
all of them are technically very challenging.
Longitude: 86.79083300
facing routes trek to Namche Bazaar
Location: Khumbu
and follow an acclimatization schedule.
Duration: 17 Days
Days 8-14: Climbing days depend on the route being attempted. Days 15-17: Return trek to Lukla and flight to Kathmandu.
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43
Š Asian Trekking
Kwangde (6,011 m)
Kwangde Ri is an impressive ridge of summits to the south-west of Namche Bazaar. Spectacular waterfalls cascade from the mountain’s lower gullies which trekkers often gaze at through tea-house windows in Namche Bazaar or from the trail to Thame. Kwangde Ri is the collective name for the chain of peaks running west to east that includes Nup (6,035 m), Kwangde Lho (6,187 m), Kwangde Shar (6,011 m) ending at the lower, rocky Nupla (5,885 m), all of which are covered by the peak permit. There are many routes climbing the various peaks but all have technical difficulties, especially from the steep northern side. Kwangde Lho, the tallest of the peaks was famously climbed by Jeff Lowe and David Breashears in 1982 via a difficult line on extremely steep ice and rock.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Easier routes can be found on the less steep southern side which is reached
Alternative Names: Kongde Ri
Days 1-6: Fly from Kathmandu to
via the secluded Lumding Valley which is in turn reached by crossing either
Permit group: B
Lukla and trek to Namche Bazaar for
the Moro La (4,343 m) or Lumding La (4,516 m). Kwangde Lho was first
Height: 6011 m - 19721 ft
acclimatization. Cross the Lumding
climbed by its South Ridge in 1975, and Kwangde Shar in 1972 via the
Latitude: 27.73055600
South Face.
Longitude: 86.79083300
La (4,516 m) to reach Kwangde Base Camp for routes on the south side.
Location: Khumbu
Days 7-9: Climbing.
Duration: 15 Days
Days 10-15: Return to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
45
Š Asian Trekking
Chulu West (6,419 m)
If Chulu Far East is the Island Peak of the Annapurnas, then Chulu West is the Mera Peak alternative. There is no real technical difficulty in reaching the summit but progress can be slow depending on snow conditions. Above base camp some steep loose rock requires some fixing of ropes. Chulu West was first ascended in 1952 by a Japanese Expedition. Between Chulu West and East is Chulu Central. Chulu Central is rarely attempted by commercial groups, being very similar in nature to the West peak. It has a sometimes tricky rock section to negotiate before the actual summit.
Peak Facts Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-8: Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar
Height: 6419m - 21059ft
and trek along the Annapurna Circuit to reach
Latitude: 28.74373100
Manang.
Longitude: 84.02236500 Location: Manang
Days 9-12: Climbing. Ascend to Chulu West Base Camp. Set up high camp and summit.
Duration: 18 Days Days 13-18: Either return to Besisahar or cross Thorung La into Mustang and fly from Jomsom to Pokhara and return to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
47
Š Pasang Sherpa
Imja Tse (Island Peak) (6,160 m)
Imja Tse is more popularly known by the name of Island Peak, a name coined by Eric Shipton who thought this peak looked like ‘an island in a sea of ice’. Later in 1983, the peak was renamed as Imja Tse. The peak was first ascended in 1953 by a British team as preparation for climbing Everest and Tenzing Norgay was one of the members of that successful team. Between 2006 and 2010 over 12,000 people attempted the summit. Despite its popularity, it’s still a tough climb and many people fail to reach the summit. This is often because of insufficient acclimatization, and sometimes because of deep snow, strong winds, or simply setting off too late in the morning. The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the enormous summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar rise above the summit to the north. To the east lies the looming west face of Makalu and the unmistakeable form of Ama Dablam can be seen to the south-west.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Island Peak
Days 1-12: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek
Permit group: B
up to Everest Base Camp for acclimatization
Height: 6160m - 20209ft
and to enjoy the magnificent Khumbu
Latitude: 27.92250000 Longitude: 86.93611100
scenery. Return to Chhukung and on to Island Peak base Camp.
Location: Khumbu
Days 13-15: Climb.
Duration: 18 Days
Days 16-18: Return to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
49
Š Pasang Sherpa
Pharchamo (6,187 m)
First climbed in 1955, Pharchamo Peak (6,187 m) is an attractive snow peak lying to the south of the formidable glaciated Tashi Lapcha pass (5,760 m) which connects the Rolwaling Valley with Thame and the Khumbu Valleys. It has a north-by-northwest ridge, which rises from the crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. The face of the ridge forms a uniform slope broken by crevasse and seracs. The lower reaches pose little difficulty, although towards the summit, depending on seasonal conditions, open crevasses and ice-steps may present some challenges. Pharchamo is often climbed in conjunction with Ramdung in the Rolwaling Valley. Many groups choose to continue the crossing of the Tashi Lapcha and decend into the Khumbu to finish their journey at Lukla.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: This can also be written as Parchamo
Days 1-10: Drive from Kathmandu to
Permit group: B
Acclimatize in the small village of Na.
Height: 6187 m - 20298 ft Latitude: 27.83657100
Dolakha. Trek to upper Rolwaling Valley.
Days 11-15: Trek alongside Tso Rolpa, cross the Trakarding Glacier
Longitude: 86.54737500
and ascend to the Tashi Lapcha pass.
Location: Khumbu
Climb Pharchamo. Descend to Thame.
Duration: 20 Days
Days 16-20: Trek to Lukla via Namche Bazaar and fly to Kathmandu. Further trekking to Everest Base Camp possible.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
51
Š Pasang Sherpa
Lobuje (6,119 m)
The dark triangle of its rocky East face rises over the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south ridge. Lobuje has two summits, East (6,119 m) and West (6,145 m), connected by a continuous ridge. There is still a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them meaning they are rarely climbed together. Many aspiring Everest teams climb Lobuje for acclimatisation as the summit is the same altitude as Camp 1 and it saves making at least one dangerous trip through the Khumbu Icefall. The South East Ridge is the most popular, graded as PD+ on the Alpine Grading system. Teams, most commonly, climb only to a false summit on the summit ridge (after which it becomes progressively narrower and more difficult) but the views from here are anyway already stupendous. From the high camp the route continues up a series of rocky slabs of increasing steepness to give access to the South-East Ridge proper. About 50 m from the main ridge the slabs end and there is a 45 degree snow slope to ascend onto the ridge itself. The start of the ridge is at approximately 5,670 m and this is also a possible site for a second high camp to make the summit day easier. Follow the ridge turning around seracs and ascending the various bumps towards the first summit. There are no real difficulties although there is a feeling of some exposure along the way. Between the first/false summit and the true summit there is a considerable descent which you may need to rappel down before the final 60 m or so. Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first recorded ascent to Lobuje East on 25 April 1984.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Lobuje can often be seen spelled Lobuche.
Days 1-9: Flight to Lukla and trek
Permit group: B
Tengboche Monastery and reach
Height: 6119m - 20075ft
Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp for
Latitude: 27.95950000
acclimatization. Return to Lobuje East
Longitude: 86.78994400 Location: Khumbu Duration: 14 Days
in to Namche Bazaar. Trek via the
Base Camp Days 10-11: Climbing. Days 11-14: Return trek to Lukla.
As a guide, this is a more technical climb than more popular trekking peaks such as Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak. www.nepalmountaineering.org |
53
Š Pasang Sherpa
Ramdung (5,925 m)
Ramdung (5,925 m) is situated in the remote upper Rolwaling Valley due south of the village of Na. It is often climbed in combination with Parchermo (6,187 m) and a crossing into the Khumbu via the infamous Tashi Lapcha pass (5,760m). The trek into Rolwaling adds to the attraction of these peaks. It is much less frequently visited than the Khumbu region and is a secretive valley which twists and turns, with views restricted by steep forested cliffs, until the valley opens up to superb Himalayan mountain scenery. The straightforward normal route up the North East Face of the icy dome of Ramdung is long and usually requires two camps for proper acclimatisation. Basecamp is positioned below the Yalung La (5,310 m), and nearby Yalung
Peak Facts Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-10: Drive from Kathmandu to
Peak (5,650 m) is an ideal acclimatisation climb. A spectacular high camp is
Height: 5925 m - 19438 ft
normally located on the glacier below the summit ridge.
Dolakha and trek up to the Rolwaling
Latitude: 27.81873400
Valley. Spend a day in Na to acclimatize
Longitude: 86.43111700
and enjoy the mountain scenery.
Location: Rolwaling
Ascend to Yalung Ri Base Camp.
Duration: 19 Days
Days 11-12: Ascend to high camp
The mountain offers a panoramic view of mountain ranges from Langtang to Everest and a splendid view of the mighty triple topped peak Gauri Shankar and Menlungtse.
and summit. Days 13-19: Trek across Tashi Lapcha pass and descend to Thame. Trek to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
55
Š Oleg Barunov
Pisang (6,091 m)
Pisang peak (6,091 m) lies just north of the Manang Valley which the famous Annapurna Circuit passes through. While sometimes offered as a threeday excursion from the village of Pisang, this can only be done if properly acclimatised. The climb since 2005 approaches via the West ridge. The upper part of the ridge, above the high camp at 5,200 m, is guarded by huge rock slabs which make it difficult to climb, especially in wet or snowy conditions. Inexperienced climbers may feel more comfortable on Island Peak or nearby Chulu Far East. Naturally there are fabulous views to be seen from the summit over the Manang Valley and the Annapurna Range.
Peak Facts A German expedition made the first ascent of Pisang Peak in 1955.
Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-7: Drive to Besisahar and trek towards
Height: 6091m - 19983ft
the Manang Valley along the lush Marshyangdi
Latitude: 28.64721000
River gorge. Reach Chame, ascend to Upper
Longitude: 84.18454000
Pisang and acclimatize here.
Location: Manang Duration: 18 Days
Days 8-10: Reach Pisang Base Camp at around 4,380m. Climb first to a high camp and thereafter summit. Days 11-18: Descend to Manang and continue along the Annapurna Circuit over the Thorung La or Tilicho Pass and fly to Pokhara from Jomsom.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
57
Š Pasang Sherpa
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (5,663 m)
Tharpu Chuli (5,663 m), also known as Tent Peak, offers a challenging and achievable two week expedition in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary. It is the most popular of the three Sanctuary peaks (the others being Hiunchuli and Singu Chuli) and for good reason. Its lower altitude keeps itineraries short, the climbing reasonably straightforward and it enjoys a fabulous location, right in the centre of the Annapurna Sanctuary, giving an incredible panoramic view from its summit. The expedition starts with a picturesque tea-house trek, through charming villages and rhododendron forests, into the glorious high amphitheatre of the Annapurna Sanctuary. From a high camp placed below the mountain’s north-west ridge, a steep ascent leads to the easy summit ridge with its unimpeded views to Annapurna South, Fang, Annapurna I and the magical Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail).
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Commonly known as Tent Peak
Days 1-6: Fly or drive from Kathmandu
Permit group: B
from where you begin the famous
Height: 5663 m - 18579 ft
trek up to the impressive Annapurna
Latitude: 28.56217000
Sanctuary and the base camp for
Longitude: 83.88967000
to Pokhara and drive on to Birethanti
Annapurna.
Location: Annapurna
Days 7-10: Reach Tharpu Chuli base
Duration: 16 Days
camp, high camp and summit. Days 11-16: Return trek to Pokhara and drive to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
59
Š Asian Trekking
Khongma Tse (Mehara Peak) (5,849 m) Khongma Tse (5,849 m) rises to the north of Kongma La and stands above the Khumbu Glacier opposite the village of Lobuche. It is one of several summits that make up the long south-west ridge of Nuptse between the Khumbu and Nuptse Glaciers. Seen from Gorak Shep, the summit has a diamond shaped hanging glacier above a steeply inclined rock wall that makes up the mountain’s North Face. From Bibre, near Dingboche, to the south the mountain is much more approachable. Seen from the lakes east of the Kongma La, a small, stepped glacier descends from the summit between long, rocky arms that make up the mountain’s South and South-East Ridges. The margins of the glacier provide the normal route of ascent.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Mehra or Mehara Peak, the name was changed to avoid confusion with Mera Peak.
Days 1-9: Flight to Lukla and trek
Permit group: B Height: 5849m - 19189ft Latitude: 27.9614569 Longitude: 86.8524542 Location: Khumbu
in to Namche Bazaar. Trek via the Tengboche Monastery and reach Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp for acclimatization. Return to Lobuje. Days 9-10: Climbing. Days 11-14: Return trek to Lukla.
Duration: 14 Days
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
61
Š Asian Trekking
Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) (5,844 m) Ganja La Chuli (5,844 m) is the fabulous looking peak to the south of Kyanjin Gompa, the destination village of the popular Langtang Trek in the Langtang National Park. The normal route to the summit is via the snowy north-east ridge. Much of the climb is straightforward, but there is one fairly steep section on 40 to 55 degree snow where belaying is necessary. The route is approached on the trail across the Ganja La, the tricky but direct pass from Langtang to Helambu. The climb is often incorporated into a crossing of the pass and can be done with two camps. The first is Ganja La
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Also known as Naya Kanga
Days 1-7: Drive from Kathmandu to
Permit group: B
trek up to Kyanjin Gompa where you’ll
The accessibility of Langtang from Kathmandu and the number of other,
Height: 5844m - 19173ft
rest and acclimatize on the small
lower altitude peaks, make Langtang a great choice for a short climbing trip.
Latitude: 28.1682225
surrounding peaks.
Longitude: 85.548686
Days 8-10: Move to high camp and
Location: Langtang
climb Ganja La Chuli.
base camp some 500 meters above Kyanjin Gompa and the second a high camp at around 4,900 meters. The summit offers sublime views of the peaks lying along the Langtang Valley and into Tibet.
Duration: 15 Days
the mouth of the Langtang Valley and
Days 11-15: Either cross the Ganja La into Helambu and walk to Kathmandu or backtrack to Syabru Besi and drive to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
63
Š Asian Trekking
Pokhalde (5,806 m)
Pokhalde
Pokhalde (5,806 m) was first climbed in 1953 via the Kongma La along its north ridge by the 1953 Everest Expedition team led by John Hunt. Pokalde is first seen on the trail between Pangboche and Pheriche. From there the peak looks like an undulating rocky ridge dwarfed by the vast bulk of Nuptse standing behind it. There are various possible approaches, but most people climb the North Ridge from the Kongma La (5,535 m). The ridge is mainly a rocky scramble that will need rope protection near the summit as the ridge steepens, however rarely requires ice-axe or crampons except in the winter season. The summit is an excellent viewpoint with views to Makalu, Ama Dablam and Pumori, however Everest is obscured from view by the ridge of Lhotse. Pokalde makes an excellent warm-up for Island Peak.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Alternative Names: Dolma Ri
Days 1-9: Fly in to Lukla and trek
Permit group: B
to Namche Bazaar. Trek via the
Height: 5806m - 19048ft
Tengboche Monastery and reach
Latitude: 27.9479617 Longitude: 86.847991
Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp for acclimatization. Return to Lobuje ready for the attempt of Pokhalde.
Location: Khumbu Duration: 14 Days
Days 9-10: Climbing. Days 11-14: Return to Lukla.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
65
Š Asian Trekking
Mardi Himal (5,587 m)
Mardi Himal (5,587 m) lies less than 20 km from Pokhara and is the most southerly peak of the Annapurna range. Photographs of Mardi Himal taken in 1953 by Basil Goodfellow first drew the attention of western climbers, and the mountain received its first ascent in 1961. The first route was via the East Flank and is the only one used so far. The mountain is a continuation of the southwest ridge of Machhapuchhare and is best seen from the south. The southwest face of the mountain has three well-defined ridges rising from rock buttresses and separated by hanging glaciers. Its east face is separated from the Machhapuchhare ridge by a col at 5,200 meters. The normal climbing route to the summit of Mardi Himal passes through this col. The summit offers a splendid view of the Annapurna Range and the sacred Machhapuchhare, commonly known as ‘Fishtail’. The valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal are steep and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron.
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Permit group: B
Days 1-6: Drive, or fly, to Pokhara.
Height: 5587m - 18330ft
Drive 10km to Hyangja and join the
Latitude: 28.47518
Mardi Himal trekking route. Reach
Longitude: 83.92799
Mardi Himal Base Camp.
Location: Annapurna
Days 7-9: Reach high camp and climb
Duration: 14 Days
Mardi Himal. Days 10-14: Return trek to Pokhara.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
67
Š Pascal Burret
Paldor
5896m
(5,896 m)
When the weather is clear, the Ganesh Himal range can be seen an delightful backdrop to the northwest of Kathmandu, with the icy peaks of Ganesh I (7,406 m), Ganesh V (6,950 m), Pabil (7,101 m) and Logsang Karpo (7,150 m) peering above the forested valley rim. Paldor lies at the south-east end of this range at the junction of the Tiru and Karpu Dandas (ridges). While it is under 6,000m, it provides a satisfying and non-to-difficult climb. The main route across the glacier is crevassed and takes some finding. On reaching the col there are two options. Either climb the straightforward ridge using ropes, or continue around to the crevassed back for a simpler, 45 degree, ridge. In good conditions making a traverse of the mountain is possible. From the summit there are excellent views of the Ganesh Himal peaks, Langtang Lirung (7,227 m) and Manaslu (8,156 m) as well as the mountains
Peak Facts
Itinerary
Permit group: B
Days 1-6: Drive from Kathmandu to
The peak was first climbed by Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd, Tenzing Sherpa and
Height: 5896m - 19343ft
Syabru Besi. Trek up to Mine Camp and
Da Namgyal during the monsoon of 1949 via the North-East Ridge.
Latitude: 28.27700000
on to Paldor Base Camp.
Longitude: 85.18402000
Days 7-9: Reach high camp and then
Location: Ganesh Himal
on to summit.
of Tibet including Shishapangma (8,013 m).
The trek in to base camp is along the popular Tamang Heritage Trail.
Duration: 16 Days
Days 10-16: Trek out and return drive to kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
69
Š Pasang Sherpa
Hiunchuli (6,441 m)
Hiunchuli (6,441 m) forms a formidable south-facing wall together with Annapurna South. It has a reputation for being prone to avalanche, rock fall and route finding difficulty – there is no obvious ‘standard’ line up and is best tackled in true expedition style. Even though it offers new route potential, it has received little attention from mountaineers and is rarely climbed. The most common approaches are via the Southeast Face or Northwest Face though the latter is seldom attempted. Hiunchuli’s eastern face overlooks the Modi Khola and guards the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. An American Peace Corps Expedition first climbed Hiunchuli in October 1971 via the Southeast Face. As access is easy and altitude limited, the climb offers excellent Himalayan mountaineering with an itinerary of just less than three weeks.
Peak Facts Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-6: Fly or drive from Kathmandu
Height: 6441m - 21131ft
to Pokhara and drive on to Birethanti
Latitude: 28.51666700
from where you begin the famous
Longitude: 83.88333300
trek up to the impressive Annapurna
Location: Annapurna Sanctuary
Sanctuary and the base camp for
Duration: 18 Days
Annapurna. Days 7-12: Reach Hiunchuli base camp, high camp and summit. Days 13-18: Return trek to Pokhara and drive to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
71
Š Asian Trekking
Chulu East
6584m
(6,584 m)
The climb of Chulu East is often combined with the classic Annapurna Circuit Trek. The approach to base camp is from the village of Manang. The common route to the summit is via the North-East Ridge which was climbed in 1955 by a German expedition. Chulu East is situated high above the Manang valley with breathtaking views across to the Annapurnas II, III and IV, Gangapurna, Glacier Dome, Dhaulagiri, Tilicho Peak and Manaslu. Chulu East requires previous alpine experience with crossings of fractured glacial terrain and steep scree slopes to gain the main high summit ridge. There is a second peak on the Chulu East permit called Chulu Far East (6,060 m) which guide Jamie McGuinness states “should be the ‘Island Peak’ of the Annapurnas, straightforward yet fun.” Both peaks share the same base camp. Note that groups often climb Chulu Far East instead of Chulu East.
Peak Facts Permit group: B
Itinerary Days 1-7: Drive from Kathmandu
Beyond the common ridge route, there is also a route that climbs the East
Height: 6,584m
Ridge (AD+) which requires a high camp, and a route that ascends the South
to Besisahar. Trek as far as Chame/
Latitude: 28.74373100
Pisang on the Annapurna Circuit.
East Ridge (D). Both require different base camps.
Longitude: 84.02236500
Ascend to Yak Kharka and base camp.
Location: Manang Valley
Days 7-11: Climbing.
Duration: 16 Days Days 11-16: Either return to Besisahar or cross Thorung La into Mustang and fly from Jomsom to Pokhara and return to Kathmandu.
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
73
Group “A” NMA Expedition Peaks S.N.
Name of Mountain
Height (m.)
Himalayan Range
Group “B” NMA Climbming Peaks
District
Caravan Route
S.N.
Name of Mountain
Height (m.)
Himalayan Range
District
Caravan Route
1.
Cholatse
6440
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-NamchePheriche-BC
1.
Shigu Chuli(fluted peak)
6501
Annapurna Himal
Gandaki
ktm-pokhara-Tilkedhunga-Ghorepani-Tadhaani
2.
Machermo
6237
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-NamcheGokya-BC
2.
Mera Peak
6654
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
ktm-jiri-shivalaya-Bhandar-sete- junbasi-nunthalakharikhola-poyanbung-chadrabu- kothe-thangnakhar
3.
Kyazo Ri
6186
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-Namchegokya-Bc
3.
Kusum Kangru
6367
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
ktm-lukla-namcheThame-Khumjung-B.C.
4.
Kwandge
6011
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.
4.
Nirekha
6186
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-Namchegokyo-BC
5.
Chulu West
6419
Manang
Gandaki
Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani
6.
Imja-tse(Island Peak)
6160
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
ktm-Lukla-Namche-Tyangboche-PangpocheDingboche-chhukang-B.C.
5.
Langsisa Ri
6427
Jugal
Rasuwa
Dhunche-LantangLangshis-ABC
6.
Ombigaichen
6340
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-NamcheGokyo-BC
7.
Pharchamo
6187
Rolwaling Himal
Janakpur
Ktm-Dolkha-siguti-jagat-simigaonChagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.
7.
Bokta
6143
Kanchenjunga
Dolakha
Charikot-Simigaonbeding-BC
8.
Lobuje
6119
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-RermoPokhari-Gokyadzonghla-B.C.
8.
Chekijo
6257
Gaurishankar
Dolakha
Charikot-SimigaonBeding-BC
9.
Ramdung
5925
Rolwaling Himal
Janakpur
9.
Phari Lapcha
6017
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-NamcheMachermo-BC
Ktm-dolkha-Siguti-GongerDoranangbu-BedingNa-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban- Tashi Lapcha-B.C.
10.
Pisang
6091
Manang
Gandaki
10.
Lobuje West
6145
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-Merala-BC
Ktm-Beshisahar-Bahundanda-ChamjaBagarchhap-Chame- Pisang B.C.
11.
Larkya Peak
6249
Manaslu
Gorkha
Gorkha-SamagounLamjung Bc
11.
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
5663
Annapurna Himal
Gandaki
ktm-Pokhara-Dhampus-Langdrung- GhandrungChomoro-Kuldi-B.C.
12.
Mt.ABI
6097
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Lukla-Merala-BC
12.
Khongma-tse(Mehara Peak)
5849
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Mechermo-gokyoDughala-B.C.
13.
Mt.Yubra Himal
6035
Langtang Himal
Rasuwa
Dhunche-Legberi BC
13.
Ganja-la Chuli(Naya Kanga)
5844
Langtang Himal
Bagmati
Ktm-Dhunche-Sysbru Goan- Lama hotel-Kyanjin Gomba-Ganjala B.C.
14.
Mt.Yala
5732
Langtang
Rasuwa
Ktm-DhuncheLangtang-Bc
14.
Pokhalde
5806
Khumbu Himal
Sagarmatha
Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokya-Na-Thagna Cholapass B.C.
15.
Mt.Chhukung Ri
5550
Mahalangur
Solukhumbu
Ktm-LuklaNamche-BC
15.
Mardi Himal
5587
Annapurna Himal
Gandaki
Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangia-Dhiprang- Kharka-Mardi Basi Camp
16.
Paldor
5896
Langtang Himal
Bagmati
Ktm-Dhading-Ankhu khola-Rigaon-JAralangSertung-Krarka-somdang
17.
Hiunchuli
6441
Annapurna
Gandaki
Ktm-Pokhara-Chomrong-Bamboo-BC
18.
Chulu East
6584
Damodar
Gandaki
Ktm-Beisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-BC
Fee Structure For Group “A” NMA Peaks Royalty for upto seven members (U.S Dollars) 500.00 Royalty for each additional member upto 12 person (U.S. Dollars) 100.00
Garbage deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks An amount of US$250.00 should be deposited to NMA as garbage deposite to get permit to all 33 NMA peaks. The refund shall be made as per the provisions made by NMA.
Fee Structure for Group “B” NMA Peaks Group Size Rate US$ 1-4 Persons 350.00 Only 5-8 Persons 350.00 Plus 9-12 Persons 510.00 Plus Note:Maximum number of members in team is 12.
Additional P/P US$ 40.00 (Per person) 25.00 (Per person)
www.nepalmountaineering.org |
75
Š Oleg Barunov