Explore the atmospheric backstreets of the bund

Explore the atmospheric backstreets of the Bund The bustling streets behind the Bund are some of the most thrillingly atmospheric in the city. The avenues and lanes between Henan Road and the Bund rival the riverfront for architectural drama, but are generally in a more original (read: run-down, ungentrified) state.

Behind the Waldorf Astoria hotel, the neoclassical gem at 93 Guangdong Road is one of this area’s finest. Dating from 1910, its original interiors are even more spectacular. Now a bank, it is possible to peek inside the Byzantine-style entrance with dramatic Doric columns, mottled marbles, dolomite roof mosaics and stained glass windows.

Continue north along Sichuan Road, watching out for the mad motorcyclists that careen along this stretch. At 125 Sichuan Middle Road the headquarters of the Xinhau News Group occupies a grandiose, if dilapidated, 1922 neoclassical mansion. Much of the former Baroque detailing on the façade was lost during the Cultural Revolution and in its place were written slogans in large Chinese characters extolling the virtues of Mao and Maoism. Although almost all of these revolutionary reminders have been wiped off city walls, if you look carefully you can still see the outline of the Maoist characters on this old building.

Turn left onto Fuzhou Road and you’ll soon come to a remarkable crossroads. Four stony heritage frontages encircle the intersection of Fuzhou Road and Jiangxi Road, including the almost identical facades of Hamilton House and the Metropole Hotel, erected by Palmer & Turner in 1933 and 1934 respectively.

At 185 Sichuan Middle Road, the Pearl Lam Design Gallery (pearllam.com) showcases cutting-edge Chinese artworks.

Continue north on Jiangxi Road following the wall of the Renaissance-style Shanghai Municipal Council building opened in 1922 and encompassing an entire city block. This was the seat of authority during the days of British Concession. Some great archival photographs of the building hang in the marbled entrance.

Stop for dumplings and tea at the little local stalls that line the backstreets. Alternatively, head one block east to the Bund for the various decadent dining and entertainment options on the riverfront.