Chef's Special Vol 74 Winter 2011

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J O U R N A L

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THE GRAIN GAME • MASTER CLASS

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I N T E R NA T IO NA L

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C U T T I NG

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TWO OF A KIND T H E

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• BITE SIZED MOMENTARY — CHEF MATT MORAN

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M - L- A F - O - O - D - S - E- R-V- I - C - E C - O - N -T- A - C -T- S: F - O - O - D S - E- R-V- I - C - E & R- E-T- A - I - L M - A - R- K- E-T- I - N - G M - A - N - A - G - E- R

Ro g e r B o n d (r b o n d @ml a .c o m. au)

E- M - A - I - L

ch e f s p e ci al @ml a .c o m. au W- E- B - S - I -T- E

N - S -W / A - C -T

D o u g Pip e r (dp ip e r @ml a .c o m. au)

w w w.ml a .c o m. au Q - L- D / N -T E- D - I -T- O - R

C o nn au gh S h e e h a n c s h e e h a n @ml a .c o m. au

G l e n B ur ke ( gb ur ke @ml a .c o m. au) S-A

S - U - B - S - C - R- I - B - E

18 0 0 5 5 0 018 ch e f s p e ci al @ml a .c o m. au

B ill L in d s ay ( b lin d s ay @ml a .c o m. au) V- I - C / T- A - S

D - E- S - I - G - N

MASH w w w.m a s h d e si gn.c o m. au

G e r ar d D o h e r t y ( g d o h e r t y @ml a .c o m. au) W- A

P- R- I - N -T- I - N - G

N a ti o nw i d e A d v e r tisin g w w w.np a d v e r t .c o m. au

Ra f a e l Ra mir e z (r r a mir ez@ml a .c o m. au)

P- A - P- E- R S -T- O - C - K

N o r d s e t b y Ral e i gh Pa p e r F - O - O - D S -T-Y- L- I - S -T

I S S N 14 4 4 - 2 2 3 X

Sim o n B aja d a P- H - O -T- O - G - R- A - P- H - E- R

J o hn L aur i e I - L- L- U - S -T- R- A -T- I - O - N

A n d y M cIn t y r e D aw n Ta n

PU BLISH ED

T H E PA PE R ST O C K IS E N V I RON M E N TA L LY R E S P ONSI B L E PA PE R S PRODUCE D F ROM PE FC CE RT I F I E D PU L P F ROM W E L L M A NAGE D FOR E STS A N D IS E L E M E N TA L CH LOR I N E F R E E ( E CF ).

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TWO OF A KIND

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O N T H E I N T E R N A T I O N A L S T A G E w i t h R I C H M O N D L I M

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ON THE MENU

#3 C U T T I N G T H E F A T

M O M E N T A R Y : 1 1 . 4 0 A M w i t h C H E F M A T T M O R A N

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O N E C U T W O N D E R S : O F F A L S

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MASTER CLASS THE GRAIN GAME #1

C– O – N –T– E – N –T– S

E – D – I –T– O – R – ' S

N – O –T– E

Dear Chef ’s Special reader, Anthony Bourdain once said, "Nearly anyone — after a few tries — can grill a fillet mignon or a sirloin steak. A trained chimp can steam a lobster. But it takes love, and time, and respect for one’s ingredients to properly deal with a pig’s ear or a kidney." And the time is ripe for you to do just that!

Breakout your grandpa slippers because offals are gracing menus once more and this time they are partnered with more than the traditional French f lavours. I’ve seen a Mario Batali-esque lamb’s brain ravioli, lengua tacos, tripe dry-fried in Vadouvan (ok, that’s a little bit French), beef tendon done Vietnamese style and so much more. The opportunities are endless with these tentacled babies.

Check out our offal Master Class on page 08 for a quick brush up on how to prepare tripe, sweetbreads, brains and tongue and then follow up with a squiz at One Cut Wonders on page 30 for some generously contributed recipes from some great chefs around Australia who have already embraced these fancy meats.

Welcome il quinto quarto*!

2011 is the year to get into the nasty bits.

Read on my Fleischmeister in the making!

* In R o m a n c u i sin e q u in t o q u a r t o li t e ra l ly m e a n th e f i f th q u a r t e r – th e o f fa l o f bu t c h e re d a n i m a l s .

Un t i l m o d e r n t i m e th e d i v i si o n o f th e c a t tl e in R o m e w a s m a d e fo l l o win g thi s si m p l e sc h e m e: th e f irst "quarto" was dedicated t o b e s o l d t o th e No b l e s , th e se c o n d o n e w a s fo r th e c h u rc h , th e thi rd o n e fo r th e B o u rge o i si e a n d e v e n t u a l ly th e fo u r th "q u a r t o" w a s fo r th e s o l d i e r s . T h e c o m m o n p e o p l e c o u l d a f fo rd o n ly th e e n t ra i l s .

Thanks Connaugh

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F – E –A–T– U – R – E

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THE GRAIN GAME

Gina Linc oln was a r a r e s i g h t i n 19 9 2 when she star ted working in the predominantly male industr y of c at tle feedlot ting. ¬04¬

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Growing up on her father's cattle farm in Northern NSW, where they backgrounded* cattle, Gina developed her interest in the meat production side of the industry to eventually become a lot feeder. Gina now manages Peechelba Feedlot for ICM Agribusiness, an 800ha property about 20km north-west of Wangaratta in Victoria’s north east which runs up to 20,000 head of cattle. She invited Chef’s Special onto her property to chat about the going-ons in producing grain fed beef.

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF GRAIN FEEDING CAT TLE AS OPPOSED TO S I M P LY R E LY I N G O N G R A S S F E E D I N G ?

The main reason we grain feed cattle is that Australia is a dry country meaning that pasture is often insufficient to allow cattle to reach their market weight. The second reason is that consumers in both domestic and export markets actively demand grain fed beef due to the industry's ability to consistently supply market requirements in terms of quality and quantity. All feedlot cattle originally come from a pasture based environment. Once they arrive at a feedlot, the total time spent to get them to a marketable weight represents only 10-15% of their lives. In Australia, we’ve had 10 years of drought leading up to this year, and overall consistency of the product is better by finishing cattle off in the feedlot.

WHERE IS YOUR GRAIN SOURCED FROM? AND W HAT TYPES OF GRAINS DO YOUR CAT T LE CONSUME?

refers to the grouping and acclimatisation * Backgrounding of animals prior to entry into the feedlot.

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The grain which is used at Peechelba is F1 classified, which means feedlot specific, meaning it is not fit for human consumption. In general, the main grains that feedlots use are barley, sorghum, wheat and corn. We are not in a sorghum or corn area, and the wheat costs a lot to bring in, so barley is our best option for feeding grain and it means we can try and keep it local.

We can source grain up to about 300kms away, but generally the best option is our local farmers.

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THERE ARE SOME MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENTAL AND W ELFARE ASPECTS OF FEEDLOTS. W HAT WOULD SURPRISE MOST PEOPL E TO K N OW ABOUT FEEDLOTS?

W HAT HAPPENS TO AN ANIMAL ONCE IT ARRIVES A T Y O U R F E E D L O T? This feedlot is a custom set feedlot, so producers or beef brands entrust their animals to ICM Agribusiness. We manage their cattle by running a program tailored specifically to the requirements of those cattle in meeting needs of the end consumers. The producers retain ownership of the cattle and we manage their time on grain.

Other feedlots buy their own cattle, and feed them exactly the same way and they own them all the way through. We get the cattle between 9 and 13 months, and for the domestic market they stay between 60 and 70 days.

Predominantly we take British bred cattle so Angus, Herefords and their crosses. We also have quite a high percentage of Wagyu both F1’s (a full-blooded Wagyu crossed with a base breed of cow - in Australia it’s an usually Angus) and full blood Wagyu.

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Feedlots were the first sector in any agricultural industry to implement a quality assurance system - the National Feedlot Accreditation Scheme. Under the program each feedlot is accredited and we are audited every year for compliance with animal welfare, environmental and food safety legislation. This program has been continually updated, allowing the industry to keep up with what consumers, the wider community and regulatory authorities want. At Peechelba we are doing more than what is required for accreditation. The cattle are fully supervised on a day to day basis. We have people walk through each pen, checking on the animals and they go to a hospital if they are sick.

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Animal welfare is our paramount concern, not only because happy animals are productive animals, but because lot feeders from an early age are country people who all have always held a close affinity with them.

They are protected from wild animals and from drought as feed and water is available to them all the time. Even though we are a custom fed yard, all the animals here are treated as though they are our own and they are managed to the highest standard possible. Environmentally we look at how we manage our run off, how we look after the land around the lot, and how many trees there are. People would drive past the feedlot and not even know that a feedlot is here.

Animal welfare is our paramount concern, the animals have to b e h a p p y, t h e y have to be well l o o k e d a f t e r.

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IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT YOU THINK CHEFS WOU L D W AN T TO K N OW ABOUT THE PROCESS? A lot of their concerns (and often misconceptions) are about animal welfare. I believe that chefs think that cattle are sitting in their own excrement, they are in small pens and some of them tied up. In some countries that may be true, but its not true of the industry in Australia. Cattle basically have a 3000m cubed yard, they have a massive amount of space that they can fit in. They have access to shade, or they can choose to be outside. Their environment is also cleaned on a regular basis. We manage our manure and we clean the pens every 3 weeks - that’s a full clean out - meaning there is always a clean surface for them to be able to sit on. For our longer fed cattle, we use a lot of bedding; they have nice soft beds to sit in. I think the misconception is that they are tied up and we pour feed down their throats, like foie gras, but no! That is definitely not what we do - we have a tailored program that adheres to the strict animal welfare laws and legislations in Australia. Our cattle are looked after to the highest level and above.Ø

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C –L–A–S–S

O F FA L I S A CU LINA RY TERM REFERRING TO THE ENTRAILS AND INTERNAL ORGA NS OF A BU TCHERED ANIMAL. T H E WOR D DOE S NO T REFER TO A PA R T I C U L A R L I ST OF ORGA NS, BU T I NC LU DE S MOST INTERNAL ORGA NS A N D DOE S NO T I NC LU DE M USCLE S OR BON E S.

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t i s su e

T he most va luable tissues i nc lude l iver, br a i n s , t r ip e , sweetbreads, hea r t, k id ney and tail. A market also ex ists for sheep and beef intestines to be used as casings for sausage pr oduc t ion .

E di b l e

t i s su e Most usually require fur ther processi ng pr ior t o consumption or ma nu factu re a nd i ncludes the stomach, digestive tract and the skin. T he skin has the most va lue of a l l the i ned ible tissues and can be made into products such as rugs, cloth i ng a nd leathers.

I N E di b l e –

Fifth Quarter Tissues Are Broadly Split Into Two Categories :

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C –L–A–S–S

1 . . . . . . . . .Choose a thick cut of tripe

if buying raw. The muscular stomach tissue should be white in colour.

2 . . . . . . . . . Wash the

H O N E YC O M B T R I P E ( H A M # 615 2)

H O N E YC O M B I S D E R I V E D F R O M T R I P E W I T H T H E M E M BR A N E R E MOV E D BY SCA L DI NG W I T H H O T WA T E R . T H I S I S U S UA L LY D O N E A T T H E P OI N T OF P U RCH A SE .

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tripe multiple times to rid it of particles of food or other pieces of matter.

It may take three to four vigorous washings before the tripe is ready to be cooked.

3 . . . . . . . . . Simmer the tripe for at least four

to five hours in a stock pot of water. Tripe is a notoriously tough offal, the longer you simmer it, the more tender it becomes.

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VEAL SWEETBREADS ( H A M # 6110/ V6 5 6 0)

S W E E T B R E A D S C O N S I S T O F T H E T WO T H Y M U S G L A N D S O N B O T H S I D E S O F T H E T H R O A T. T H E S W EE T BR E A D I S DE R I V E D F R OM A YOU NG A N I M A L A N D I S O F PA L E A P P E A R A N C E . T H E S W EE T BR E A D I S T R I M M E D OF S U R R OU N DI NG FA T A N D C O N N E C T I V E T I S S U E .

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1 . . . . . . . . . Soak the sweetbreads in cold water until they become white.

Change the water two or three times until it remains clear (this process may take up to five hours).

2 . . . . . . . . . Bring them to the boil in cold,

salted water and at the first sign of boiling, drain and refresh under cold water.

3 . . . . . . . . . Remove the

skin and fibres.

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C –L–A–S–S

1 . . . . . . . . . Soak the tongue in cold water for 12 hours, renewing the water two or three times.

L AMB'S TONGUE ( H A M # 7 010)

T H E T O N G U E I S P R E PA R E D F R O M T H E L O N G C U T T ON GU E B Y T H E R E MOVA L OF T H E L A R Y N X A N D T H E T O N G U E R O O T.

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3 . . . . . . . . . Skin the tongue

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by making an incision in the skin at the base and on the top and pull the skin towards the tip.

2 . . . . . . . . . Trim it by

removing the fat and dip in boiling water.

4 . . . . . . . . . Wash and wipe the skinned tongue.

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M –A– S –T– E – R

C –L–A–S–S

LAMB'S BRAIN ( H A M # 7 0 7 0)

T H E BR A I N I S R E MOV E D F ROM T H E SK U L L A N D T HE OU T E R SK I N BU T I S L EF T I N I T S M E M B R A N E . A B R A I N C O N S I S T S OF T H E T WO L A R GE CE R E BR A L H E M I SPH E R E S.

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1 . . . . . . . . . Before cooking

brains, soak them in a bowl of salted water for an hour.

This will remove excess blood and whiten the brains.

If several brains are being prepared at once, it may be necessary to change the soaking water a couple of times during the hour.

2 . . . . . . . . . Drain the brains

then carefully remove as much of the skin and membrane coating the brains as is possible.

3 . . . . . . . . . Simmer the brains in salted water

for 15 minutes. Handle the brains carefully throughout the cooking process, as the tissue is delicate and will break up.

Brains are best left to cool and set a little before any further cooking is done.

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O – N T– H – E I – N –T– E – R – N – A–T– I – O – N – A– L S –T–A – G – E

EXECUT IV E CHEF RICHMOND LIM, KUALA LUMPUR CONV ENT ION CENT RE, MALAYSIA

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S –T–A – G – E

A s the E xec utive Chef of the Kuala Lumpur C onvention Centre, Richmond Lim is responsible for inspiring his k i t c h e n b r i g a d e o f 51 c h e f s to create cuisine that raises the bar of Malaysian cuisine.

With the average plates ser ve d ever y night numbering in the thousands, he is one h e l l o f a m o t i v a t o r.

A firm believer of “back to basics” and respecting quality produce, Chef Richmond compliments his culinary ingenuity with keen agricultural knowledge. His success stems from an enthusiastic curiosity in exploring various cooking styles, presentation, produce and ingredients in a quest for edible balance and harmony.

He prefers the simple dish to the flamboyant.

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Chef Richmond’s Roasted Suckling Lamb ‘ Peking St yle’ S E R V E S

8 green onions (trimmed) 60 ml Hoisin sauce 1 tbsp Plum sauce

250 g suckling lamb meat (roasted and thinly sliced) 16 small rice pancake wraps If meat needs to be reheated, heat in oven at 180°C — 220°C for 5 minutes Cut the white sections from green onion and thinly slice.

Blanch the remaining green sections of the onions for 5 seconds, then place in a medium bowl of cold water before draining.

Combine Hoisin and Plum sauce.

Divide sauce, suckling lamb meat, and white onion sections among pancakes. Roll the pancakes to enclose filling, then tie each roll with one piece of green onion to secure.

SERVE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE .

Suckling lamb is lamb that has just started to graze but is feeding mostly on its mother’s milk, giving it pale, juicy, tender meat. The meat is pale pink–almost white–in colour, rich in gelatine, relatively lean, tender, and mild in flavour.

Suckling lamb is slaughtered at 3 to 5 weeks of age. The smaller the lamb, the more tender and mild tasting the meat. It can be difficult to source in Australia, if unavailable use a slow cooking cut of lamb such as a shoulder as an alternative (roast the shoulder at 180˚c for 25-30 minutes/500g).

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F – E –A–T– U – R – E

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TWO OF A KIND Australia is among the world’s most successful producers of livestock.

With extensive rangelands and a variety of climatic and environmental conditions many breeds of livestock are thriving in Australia.

The different genetic base of cattle breeds determine the kind of conditions they can thrive in and climate is the main factor that decides which breed of cattle are farmed where.

Australian livestock producers run cattle breeds which are capable of adapting to the local climate, whether in the hot tropics of the north or the temperate climate of the south.

By having stock that is well adapted, production of top quality beef can be maximised. The bovine family can be split into two subspecies - Bos Indicus which originated from South Asia and Bos Taurus which is from Eurasia (Europe).

Cattle production in Australia can be divided geographically between Bos Indicus and Bos Taurus areas. An imaginary line running west from the city of Brisbane divides cattle production into North and South. North of the line there are cattle whose genetic make up is based on Bos Indicus while production below the line is based on the genetics of Bos Taurus, although overlapping does occur and cross breeding has made it possible for producers to take the best of both subspecies.

Currently 50-60% of cattle in Australia are crossbred.

Bos Indicus cattle are able to survive in the tropics of the pastoral regions of northern Australia because of a high tolerance to the different environmental conditions which are associated with humid climates. Slick coats and chemicals in their sweat glands act as a repellent to cattle ticks and other parasites. The Australian Brahman for example excretes a chemical from sweat glands in their tails which they then flick onto their bodies while swatting flies.

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Bos Indicus are also good foragers which makes it easier for them to find food during dry conditions. Some common breeds and cross breeds of Bos Indicus found in Australia are the Australian Brahman, Droughtmaster, Santa Gertrudis, the Brangus (which is a cross of the Angus and Brahman) and the Braford (a cross of a Hereford and Brahman).

Cattle with Bos Indicus bloodlines can be distinguished by a hump across the back of their shoulders (which is a fat store for tough times), large ears, a larger dewlap (saggy skin) in front of their briskets and a larger pissel which all act as cooling systems.

In Southern Australia, temperate breeds belonging to the Bos Taurus group are used as they mature quickly and have a rapid muscle growth rate. The Bos Taurus temperate breeds originated in the cool climate areas of Europe, in particular Britain and they where the first breeds of cattle to come to Australia - in particular the Shorthorn. The most common of the Bos Taurus breeds is Angus. Angus cattle have an excellent reputation for marbling and have also become recognised as a key source of quality carcase genetics and adaptability, a reason behind the Angus breed being used in crossbreed plans with Bos Indicus cattle. Other Bos Taurus cattle include the Hereford, Wagyu, the French Charolais, the famous Tuscan Chiania and many more.

The suitability of a wide variety of breeds within the diverse Australian environment means that the industry has the ability to supply beef to numerous markets both domestically and internationally. Ø

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Known for long simmering cuisine grandmére which includes dishes such as pot-au-feu, boeuf à la bourguignonne and terrine de campagne, traditional old fashion bistro food can truly be relied upon for comfort.

(Chef 's Special Magazine believes the only pâté worth having is made from lamb or beef livers so we're happy assuming that all pâté made in Parisian Bistros is made from Agneau de Pauillac livers from the Pyrenees or from the livers of Limousin cattle from Limousin)

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It has been said that the Bistro is where you'll find the truest expression of French cooking, think the old guard Parisian bistros such as the century-old Chez Georges and L’ Ami Louis near Les Halles, Paris.

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LES PL ATS MIJOTÉS OF THE BISTRO MENU

S E R V E S

1 BONE in VEAL BREAST CUT into INDIVIDUAL RIBS 4 tbsp of UNSALTED BUTTER ∕ 4 tbsp of OLIVE OIL 12 CLOVES of GARLIC ∕ 5 SPRIGS of THYME 5 SAGE LEAVES ∕ 4 GOLDEN ONIONS ∕ 2 CELERY STALKS 1 SPRIG of ROSEMARY ∕ 4 cans of TOMATOES 4 LARGE ARTICHOKES, TRIMMED with STEMS STILL ATTACHED JUICE of 1 LEMON

6

BRAISED VEAL BREAST WITH ARTICHOKE HEARTS -------

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Heat oven to 135˚c and season veal.

Melt butter and 2 tbsp oil over medium heat. Brown veal and trimmings in batches. Rest and reserve liquid.

Return pot to medium heat; add garlic, thyme, sage, onion, celery and rosemary and cook until browned. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.

Add wine and boil until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup, add reserved veal ribs and trimmings, along with the veal stock. Bring to the simmer, cover and bake until veal is tender (2 hours).

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Take veal out of liquid and rest. Skim fat from the surface of the cooking liquid and strain through a sieve into a saucepan, reserving the garlic.

Bring the cooking liquid to a boil and then simmer until the liquid is thickened.

Season and set aside to keep warm.

Put artichokes and lemon juice in a pot and bring to boil. Simmer until tender. Drain and slice lengthways into thick strips.

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté artichoke strips until golden brown. Season and set aside to keep warm.

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TO S E R V E Br u sh veal brea st with reserved cooking liquid and grill until caramelised .

Divide onto 6 serving plates and drizzle sauce o ve r. S e r ve w ith the artichoke hearts and a watercress salad.

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Flat Iron Steaks with Mustard Cream Sauce & Bistro Pommes Frites* 4 FLAT IRON STEAKS ∕ 1 tbsp of UNSALTED BUTTER 1 tbsp OIL ∕ 5 tbsp COGNAC ∕ 1/4 cup of HEAV Y CREAM 1 1/2 tbsp DIJON MUSTARD ∕ PARSLEY for GARNISH

Season steaks. Heat butter and oil in a griddle pan over a medium high heat. Add steaks and cook, turning once only, until required doneness.

Add 4 1/2 tbsp of cognac to pan and stir, scraping browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Return pan to medium heat and cook for 20 seconds, add cream and mustard, season and stir until sauce comes together.

Stir in remaining cognac and pour over steaks.

Garnish with parsley and serve with pommes frites* SERVES

4

*Bistro

Pommes

Frites

MINIMUM of 200 g WAGYU OIL in SHALLOW PAN OR 1 kg WAGYU OIL in a SMALL DEEP FRYER 1 LARGE POTATOES, CUT LENGTH WAYS into CHIPS SALT to TASTE Heat wagyu oil over a medium-high heat until deep frying thermometer is at 160ºc.

Working in small batches, pat dry sliced chips, add to wagyu oil and cook, turning occasionally and maintaining a temperature of 160ºc (the temperature will drop when you add the potatoes). Cook until chips are pale and tender but not browning. Remove from the oil to a wire rack and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Return oil to medium-high heat until the deep-frying thermometer reads 190 ºc. Working in small batches, add the chilled fries to the cooking oil and cook, turning occasionally and maintaining a temperature of 190ºc until golden brown and crisp.

Season with salt.

Serve hot.

+ Check o ut 'Cuttin g the Fat ' o n pa ge 28 , fo r info r m atio n o n Wa gyu oil .

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1

4

----Brown the beef cheeks and diced beef. Add the carrot, the garlic cloves and the bouquet garni.

Cover and leave to cook on low heat for 10 minutes.

----Peel the pearl onions and put them in a saucepan. Cover them with water and add some salt and pepper, as well as a tablespoon of sugar.

Cover the saucepan with some baking paper to reduce until the onions start to caramelize.

Set aside.

2 ----Heat the wine in a large saucepan and flame it.

Once the flame has disappeared add the beef stock, salt and pepper and a sugar cube.

3 ----Add some flour to the saucepan and coat the meat well.

Stir in the wine and stock mixture, check the seasoning and cook in the oven for 2 hours at 160°c.

S E R V E S

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BEEF CHEEKS BOURGUIGNON

5 ----Cut the bacon into small squares and put these in some cold water. Bring the water to a boil and then cool the bacon in cold water.

Sauté them in a frying pan along with some butter and oil. Drain and set aside.

1 kg CHEEK of BEEF 600 g of BEEF NECK (aka CHUCK); CUBED 150 g of FRESH BACON 2 ONIONS 1 CARROT, DICED 2 GARLIC CLOVES 18 PEARL ONIONS 80 g of FLOUR 1 BOUQUET GARNI 1 lt of TANNIC RED WINE 1 lt of BEEF STOCK SUGAR SALT and PEPPER

6 ----Once the meat is tender remove the bouquet garni and each piece of meat, one by one. Blend the sauce and pour it into another dish. Add the meat, the onions and the bacon cubes.

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TO S E R V E Se r ve with a Je r u sa le m ar tichoke o r cele r ia c m a sh .

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Suet, tallow, dripping – all terms for beef fat. These fats sustained ancient man as an important energy source through long cold winters. Each term defines fat derived in a different manner and suited to different cooking applications. The benefit of using one of these types of beef fat in cooking is that they are shelf stable, have a low melting point and a very high smoke point, meaning that they are well suited to deep frying and can be solid at room temperature, which enables them to be used in pastry making. These fats, if used in deep frying, can also be strained and reused, which makes for better plate cost on already cost effective items like fries. Beef fat is also good for added flavour when searing steak.

The more fat an animal has, the more easily the fat can be rendered and turned into a usable by-product. Wagyu cattle are known for the amount of fat they can layer or marble, and for the tenderness and flavour this lends to the meat. This predisposition to lay down a good layer of fat also makes Wagyu cattle perfectly suited to creating tallow or beef oil. Executive Chef Philip Edwards at Moo Moo Grill in Queensland says he uses Wagyu fat to cook his organic kipfler potatoes as “the flavour is fantastic, and it allows us to get away from duck fat. As we cut all our Wagyu in house it enables us to use our byproduct”. He renders this product himself from trim, although it can be purchased commercially ready to use.* Philip also says the feedback from customers is evident via the sales, “the customers love them, and it is one of our most popular sides, we sell them by the truckful as they really compliment the steaks”

So if you are about to grease your sauté pan, roast up some vegetables, make a base for a gravy, sear a steak, confit a beef cheek or bake an English pudding, then consider beef fat. With a few simple steps, it can be rendered and used for all these purposes and more thereby bringing down plate costs and making use of an otherwise wasted product, while adding great mouth feel and f lavour. Ø

*

York foods in Goulburn sell Wagyu Beef Cooking Oil and can be contacted on (02) 4822 5025

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BEEF TR IPE H O N E YC O M B

H. A .M. # 6152

L A MB BR A I N

H. A .M. # 7070

L A MB TONGUE SHORT CUT

H. A .M. # 7010

V E A L SW EETBR E A D ( T H Y M US GL A N D)

H. A .M. # 611/ V6560

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Of fal is a culinary term which refers to the entrails and internal organ s of a butchered animal.

T he word does not refer to a particular list of organ s, but includes most internal organ s not including mu scles or bones.

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SERVES

4

2 brown onions 50 g celery 70 g ca rrots 1.2 kg beef tripe 3 g pepper corn black 1 tsp ma rjora m 1 tsp salt 1 tsp paprika 1/3 cup plain flour 1 spring pa rsley 300 g pastry 1.5 lt chicken stock 3 eggs

BEEF CALAMARI ser ved in a MINEST RONE ST Y LE BROT H w/ PA ST RY SA I L ¬32¬

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Wash tripe In a large saucepan immerse tripe in cold water Cover and bring to boil Once boiled pour off the water and cover tripe in ½ the chicken stock Cook again for 3-4 hours until tender Take tripe out and cut into strips, then throw them back into the tripe stock At the same time in another pot cook the vegetables with remaining chicken stock Keep stirring and check till tender Add marjoram and cook all together in tripe soup for about an hour Combine tripe and vegetables, add remaining spices and cook for another 5 minutes Roll out puff pastry then brush with egg season with salt Cut into sails and place in the oven on a flat oven tray at 180ºC for 5-8 minutes Place tripe soup in a prepared bowl and serve with pastry sail

A PPR EN TICE CHEF M A R IOL A DU BERY ( ) WINNER OF MEAT AND LIVESTOCK AUSTRALIA’S MASTER APPRENTICE COMPETITION - 2010 BRISBANE FOOD & WINE SHOW

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The PH I LOS OPH ER ( LAMB BRAINS and TON GU E SAL AD) MAKES

6

APPETIZER SIZED PORTIONS

F O R · T H E · L A M B ' S · B R A I N S

6

la mb’s brains Salt Juice of 1/2 a lemon Flour for dusting 1 egg, beaten 1/2 cup breadcrumbs 2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 tsp chopped thyme

Soak the brains in cold water for 1 hour to draw out blood. Rinse the brains and place in a pot and cover with cold water. Add a generous amount of salt and lemon juice.

Bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper and cut each brain into 3 even pieces. Season with a little salt, dust in flour, and then dip in the egg wash, then coat in thyme and breadcrumbs.

Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and add butter. When the butter is bubbling, add the brains one at a time and cook until golden brown all over.

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F O R · T H E · L A M B ' S · T O N G U E

5 la mb's tongues pre brined 400 ml water 250 ml white wine dry 250 ml white vinega r 1/2 tsp pepper corns 2 shallots qua rtered 1/2 a ca rrot roughly diced

Place all ingredients in a large stainless steel pot and bring to boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 1-2 hours until tongues are soft enough not to give any resistance to the tip of a knife. Allow to cool. Thinly slice the tongue lengthways and quickly sear over a char grill or barbeque.

P I C K L E · M I X · F O R · C U C U M B E R

200 ml white vinega r 20 ml lime juice 100 g caster suga r 1/4 tbsp coriander seed 1/4 tbsp fennel seed 1/4 bay leaf

1/4 tsp peppercorns 1/4 chilli split 1/2 tsp salt 12 baby cucumbers thinly

sliced length ways

Combine all ingredients except cucumbers in a stainless steel pot and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pass liquid through a fine strainer set liquid aside discard spices. Once the pickle mix is cold place the sliced cucumber in the liquid for 10 minutes then remove and drain well. Reserve pickle mix for another day. It will last for months.

F O R · T H E · Y O G H U R T · P U R E E

150 g Greek style 1 tbsp honey

yoghurt

A pinch of cayenne pepper 1 clove of ga rlic finely minced

Combine all ingredients and whisk together.

Place in a squeezy bottle.

P E R S I A N · F E T T A · M O U S S E

100 g Persian fetta 50 g ricotta 2 sprigs thyme picked

and chopped

Salt and pepper

Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Season. Place in a piping bag.

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T O · C O N S T R U C T Grilled lambs tongue (3 slices per serve) Crumbed fried lambs brains (3 pieces per serve) 12 cucumber flowers (2 per serve) 20 g olive jam or 20 g sliced black olives 3 hei rloom tomatoes cut into wedges (2 pieces per serve) 3 baby red onions peeled and sliced (2 slices per serve) Extra vi rgin olive oil The yoghurt puree The pickled cucumber The fetta mix

Place a small bundle of the pickled cucumber on the base of the plate, place 2 tomato wedges on top, pipe 2 dollops of fetta mousse between the tomatoes, and place 2 pieces of the red onion on top of the tomato. Place the warm tongue and crumbed brains on top of the pickled cucumber salad. Garnish the plate with a couple of artistic swipes of olive jam and the yoghurt puree and drizzle with a little olive oil. Place the flowers on top of the tongue.

A t C h a t e a u Ye r in g w e t r y t o o rd e r in a s m a ny w h o l e a n i m a l s a s p o s si b l e . T h i s i s t r u ly i m p or t a n t fo r m a ny re a s o n s . A s w e l l a s b e in g c o s t e f fe c t i v e i t a l s o h e l p s t o d e v e l o p a d e e p e r l e v e l o f k n o w l e d ge in a l l o f o u r k i t c h e n s t a f f b y m a in t a in in g c o o k in g t e c h n i q u e s a n d s k i l l s th a t a re q u i c k ly d i sa p p e a r in g f ro m o u r in d u s t r y. A s a re su l t o f buy in g in w h o l e a n im a l s w e o f t e n h a v e o f fa l a ro u n d . T hi s p ro v i d e s u s wi th g re a t c re a t i v e o p p o r t u n i t i e s t o u se s o m e o f th e s w e e t e s t m e a t o f f th e a n i m a l t o e n h a n c e d i sh e s , a n d fe a t u re d i sh e s su c h a s th i s re c i p e .

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E X E CU T I V E C H E F M AT H EW M AC A RT N EY ( ) CHATEAU YERING HISTORIC HOUSE HOTEL YERING, VICTORIA

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A SW EE T B R EAD SAL AD 500 g veal sweetbreads 200 ml milk 1 stick of celery chopped 1 ca rrot peeled and chopped 1 onion peeled and chopped Sprig of Italian pa rsley Bay leaf 100 ml white wine 250 ml water 150 g almond meal

150 g

breadcrumbs fresh Qua rter of a bunch of finely sliced sage 100 g salted butter 150 g grated pa rmesan cheese 1 egg 150 ml milk 1/2 cup seasoned flour 1 bunch white aspa ragus cut on an angle 3cm from the head 300 g fresh shelled peas

SERVES

4

Soak the sweetbreads in the 200mls of milk over night. Rinse the milk off and put white wine, celery, carrot, and onion into a small saucepan and bring to the boil.

When it comes to the boil let it cook for a minute or two, then add the water.

Put the sweetbreads into the pot while the liquid is cool and let the pot come to boil, when it has boiled turn the heat off and let the sweetbreads cool down in the liquid.

When cold take the sweetbreads out of the liquid and place on paper towel to absorb the liquid. Once cold pat dry then peel the thin membrane off them.

Mix the egg and milk together. Mix the almond meal, breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese and half of the finely sliced sage together.

Flour, egg, and breadcrumb the sweetbreads.

Boil the peas in just enough water to cover them. When cooked drain half the liquid and pour the rest of the liquid and peas into the vitamiser and puree until the mixture is still a little bit coarse. Check the seasoning at this stage and put puree aside to keep warm.

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In a frying pan put 20g of salted butter and a splash of olive oil and let it heat up.

When the butter starts to sizzle add the asparagus and cook until it is aldente to touch. Take out of pan and keep warm, wipe out the pan and put half the left over butter and another splash of olive oil in. Let it heat up until the butter starts to sizzle again then add some off the sweetbreads, fry on both side until golden brown, transfer to a holding dish, wipe out the pan and complete the process again until you have fried all the sweetbreads.

C H EF M AU R IC E M A F F EI ( ) ADELAIDE FESTIVAL CENTRE SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Wipe the pan out again and add the last of the butter and the chopped sage together and cook until the butter starts to foam and turn golden.

To serve put a dollop of pea puree onto the plate then add asparagus and sweetbreads, pour over the butter and eat up.

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B – I –T– E S –I–Z–E –D

HOW

T O

M A K E

TA S A JO

- salted beef Mexican-st yle In Mexic o, butc her s sell thin salted strips of beef c alled Tasajo. The se delic ious , flint y, semi- dr y beef strips are c ured for at least 2 days and, onc e ready, grill up bet ter than any thing.

«

HOW T O » 1 k g of your favour ite beef cut, sliced to 4 mm str ips (short ribs, rump... something with f lavour) 2 tblsp of salt 2 tblsp extra-v irg in olive oil

Sea son beef w it h sa lt a nd place on t r ay in sing le layer s , sepa r ated by ba k ing paper.

Cover t ig ht ly w it h g ladw r ap a nd ref r ig er ate for no less t ha n 2 day s .

«

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TO

SERVE

»

Br ush bot h sides of beef w it h oil a nd g r ill over a direct , medium heat in batches , t ur ning only once .

Recommended cook ing t ime of 2 minutes .

Cut into bite si z ed pieces a nd ser ve a s a ba r snack w it h beer s .

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FAT

Intramusc ular fat , whic h is the measure of marbling, is the fat inside the musc le .

This is dif ferent to selvedge fat , whic h is the separate fat on the out side of meat and intermusc ular fat whic h is the separable fat bet ween musc le s .

BE E F

SU P P L Y

C H A I N

Food systems , suc h as the red meat supply, are c omplex and interrelated – not one aspec t c an be c onsidered in isolation.

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M – O – M – E – N –T– A – R –Y

T his yea r ’s A rchiba ld pr i z e ent r y, a por t r a it of Chef Mat t Mor a n, ent it led Mat t , wa s voted t he w inner of t he Pack ing Room Pr i z e .

T he Pack ing Room Pr i z e g ives t he g a ller y st a f f who liter a lly unpack a nd ha ng t he ent r ies for A rchiba ld a cha nce to vote for t heir favour ite A rchiba ld por t r a it .

chef

ma t t

moran

11:20A M // 8th April 2011

M elbourne ar tist Vinc ent Fantauzzo has been awarded the Pac king Room Prize in c onjunc tion with the 2011 Arc hibald Prize for his por trait of c hef, Mat t Moran. “ Mat t is one of my be st friends . I ’ ve known him for year s ,” says Fantauzzo. Fantauzzo experimented with numerous dif ferent pose s before set tling on this one . “ Some of them looked a bit sinister with the knife and meat .” Fantauzzo c hose to surround Moran with meat . “ He grew up on a dair y farm, he has a lamb busine s s and he’s ver y into fre sh produc e and meat . It ’s a bit intense, I suppose, if you’re a vegetarian.” Mat t c er tainly suf fered for ar t posing in a c ool room for hours while Fantauzzo painted.

Archibald is open to the public until 26 June 2011 at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, Art Gallery Road, The Domain, Sydney. ¬42¬

Newspix / News Ltd / 3rd Party Managed Reproduction & Supply Rights

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S–I–Z–E –D

>> Syd n e y, N S W. A r t i s t Vi n c e nt Fa nt au z z o w it h s u bj e c t C e l e b r it y C h e f M at t Mo r a n a n d t h e p o r t r a it e nt r y i n t h e 2 0 1 1 A r c h i b a l d P r i z e , a f t e r b e i n g a n nou n c e d a s t h e w i n n e r of t h e P a c k i n g R o o m P r i z e at t h e A r t G a l l e r y of N S W i n Syd n e y.

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N O.

N O.

— THANK YOU FOR READING —

T H I S

J O U R N A L