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F EAT __ _ _ _U _RE_ # _ _1 • A Day In A Life At Bingil Bay
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M _ _a _s _t _e _r _C _l _a _ss_ • Beef Spare Ribs > H A M# 1695
• Short Ribs
_O _n _t _h _e i n t e _r _n _a _t _____ i o n a l ___ s t a _g _e ____
> H A M# 1694
• Latin Lovers
• Chuck Short Ribs > H A M# 1631
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F EAT __ _ _ _U _RE_ # _ _2
_O _n _t _h _e M _ _e _n _u
• Steak — One For Each Day Of The Week
• The Street 66
B i t e
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i
_O _n _e _Cu_ _t W _ o_ _n _d _e _r s_ z
e
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Momentary
> 4.30PM with Chris Moran
• Beef Ribs
> H A M# 1695
d 70
E X TRA S
> A Chef’s Guide to what’s hot in 2012
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F-E-A-T-U-R-E
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#-1
#-1
F-E-A-T-U-R-E
Bingil Bay Beef produces award winning, Meat Standards Australia
TM
(MSA
TM
) registered boutique grass fed beef in
Bingil Bay, North Queensland. Owned by the Blennerhassett family, Bingil Bay Beef is one of the country` s only completely closed production chains.
This means the Blennerhassett family has ownership over the whole farming and processing systems from the breeding through to the delivery of the cartons of beef to their customers. The Santa-Brahman cattle are bred and back-grounded on one of the family’s cattle stations nearby, and then fattened and processed at the Bingil Bay property. This type of production system allows the Blennerhassetts to have complete management of their product, ensuring their beef complies with MSA™ procedures to maintain product quality and guarantee consistency. Grant and Nikki Blennerhassett invited the Chef’s Special team to their Bingil Bay property to follow the processing of one of their animals. 07
F-E-A-T-U-R-E
1
#-1
As he prepares for processing, Grant has a final check over the cattle to make sure they are healthy and not stressed. It’s important, before processing, to rest and relax the animal if they have to travel to the abattoir. At Bingil Bay Beef, the cattle are fattened on the property where the abattoir is situated so they don’t need to be rested for an extended period prior to slaughter. Every animal has a certain amount of energy contained in its muscles in the form of glycogen. This glycogen that is built up in the body, through a high energy diet, can be depleted via pre-slaughter stress. After slaughter, the glycogen is converted into lactic acid which causes the pH level in the meat to fall. If not enough glycogen is present prior to slaughter, lactic acid levels will be low and the pH won’t drop to the required level. This will cause the meat to be dark, firm and dry otherwise known as Dark Cutting.
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08
Grant moves a small number of the cattle up to the shower area where they are washed. Animals should be cleaned prior to slaughter to prevent contamination of meat or the inside of the abattoir.
#-1
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F-E-A-T-U-R-E
When ready for processing, the animal is walked up the race to the stunning area in a quiet and orderly manner to minimise stress. Races are designed to a specific Model Code of Practice for the Welfare of Animals which specifies they need to be smooth, curved and easy for an animal to walk through. When the animal reaches the end of the walkway the race must be closed off to both the inside of the abattoir and the other animals waiting to be processed.
4 The slaughterman stuns the animal. This is a fast and painless way to ensure the animal is unconscious during the first cut which is to bleed the animal, stopping the blood flow to the brain.
5
The objectives of bleeding are to end the animal’s life with minimal damage to the carcase and to remove blood from the carcase. Bingil Bay Beef also uses Electrical Stimulation at this point.
This is where an electrical current causes the carcase muscles to contract and hastens the conversion of the muscle into meat. The pH level of the carcase drops more quickly than usual and rigor mortis sets in faster than in non-stimulated carcases. Electrical stimulation also lessens the likelihood of Cold shortening or Heat shortening*. 09
F-E-A-T-U-R-E
#-1
*After slaughter, if muscles are chilled too rapidly before they change into meat, Cold shortening can occur, causing fibres to contract and toughen, affecting the colour, taste, tenderness, texture and eating quality. This is recognised by a muscle pH which is still above pH 6.0 when the carcase has cooled to below 15째C. *If muscles turn to meat before the carcase is chilled sufficiently, Heat shortening can occur causing the muscle fibre to contract and toughen, (to a lesser extent than cold shortening) and this will affect the colour, ageing potential, water holding capacity (juiciness), taste, tenderness, texture and eating quality. Heat shortening occurs when a muscle pH which is still below pH 6.0 and the carcase has cooled to 35째C.
6 The butchers at Bingil Bay Beef work quickly and carefully to remove the hide. The outer side of the hide must never touch the skinned surface of the carcase and operators must not touch the skinned surface with the hand that was in contact with the outer skin.
The butchers peel off the hide by making cuts at the legs and then following the natural seam along to the Flank and up the back. Once the carcase is returned to the hang rail the butchers can then remove the hide from the Rump area.
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#-1
F-E-A-T-U-R-E
8
7
The butcher then performs what is called a ‘Belly Rip’; the opening up of the carcase for the removal of the offal and other organs. In the Australian processing system everything from the carcase is used including muscle, offal, co-products and by-products.
Edible offal most commonly derived from a beef carcase is: Tongue Tripe Cheek Liver Tail Tendon Heart Kidney
9 Once the internal organs are removed the carcase is split in two. This is done using a Brisket Splitter. The butcher works facing the back of the carcase, splitting it down the backbone. Splitting the carcase in two makes it easier to remove the spine and any remaining organs, then inspect, store, and break down the carcase.
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F-E-A-T-U-R-E
#-1
10 When the carcase has been split the Ossification Range can be determined. Ossification is one of many carcase attributes measured to determine the MSA™ grade of a carcase. Bingil Bay’s certified MSA™ grader collates a standard set of carcase attributes to calculate the MSA™ grade; these include breed content, meat colour, marbling, fat depth, maturity and ultimate pH.
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The animal is then tagged for easy identification and moved into refrigeration. The Australian Standard for the Hygienic Production and Transportation of Meat and Meat Products for Human Consumption specify the internal temperature of the carcase must reach less than 7ºC within 24 hours.
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The carcase is then sprayed down to remove bone dust before it’s stored.
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F-E-A-T-U-R-E
Bingil Bay Beef break down their carcases after each has been in the cool room for 24 hours. They break down each carcase to the basic primals and pack and deliver each carton direct to their customers (retailers and wholesalers) the following day. Ă˜
Look out for Chef’s Special winter for more information about the production of Bingil Bay Beef.
B in g il B a y ' s M a s t e r B u t c h e r s :
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Remove pleura by loosening the seam with the tip of your knife and pulling back gently using your hands.
—
1695
H.A.M #
Trim any excess fat from the top side of the ribs.
—
M-A-S-T-E-R C-L-A-S-S
15
The Spare Rib section of the carcase can also be split into two sections: Short Ribs HA M #1694 (prepared from the last 9 ribs) and the Chuck Short Ribs H A M #1631 (prepared from the Chuck end of the rib cage). These can then be prepared further for different basic cuts.
Separate ribs by slicing along the bone.
—
H.A.M #
1694
M-A-S-T-E-R C-L-A-S-S
The Short Ribs are prepared two ways:
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17
Cut through the meat between rib bones to separate pieces.
—
Finish the cut through the bone with the bandsaw.
Beef Short Ribs.
—
Short Ribs
Once you’ve removed the pleura (to do so, follow previous instructions) slice your required sized ribs by scoring the meat right to the bone across the ribs.
Depending on what your recipe calls for, Short Ribs can be cut anywhere between 30mm - 50mm thick.
—
—
—
Follow the previous steps for Short Ribs to separate the ribs and then remove any silver skin from the pieces.
—
18
Concertina (fan) the meat off the bone by making at least two cuts on the same side of each piece.
—
Don’t slice all the way through the pieces or they won’t fan out. Slice thinly to produce at least two folds.
—
BBQ Ribs
M-A-S-T-E-R C-L-A-S-S
19
LA Short Ribs are cut from Chuck Short Ribs. Temper the ribs in the freezer before slicing to maintain control when threading through the bandsaw.
—
Cut 5mm-8mm thick pieces using the bandsaw.
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1631
H.A.M #
O-N
T- H-E I- N -T-E -R- N -A-T-I- O -N- A -L
A posse of hot new South and Central American restaurants have opened across Australia, igniting a love affair with all things Latino. In Sydney, Alejandro Saraceni is stoking the fires, and the excitement, at the Argentine-themed Boca, where they’re turning over endless platters of blood sausage and 200kg of succulent beef skirt each week, much of it straight off the parilla. Elsewhere in the Harbour City, Omar Andrade has brought a kind of gangster cool to his Latin-flavoured El Capo restaurant in Darlinghurst, where street food rules, while in Melbourne Jason Jones and Matt Lane have been turning heads for their taqueria-cum-tequila bar Mamasita on Collins Street. Rafael Rashid also in Melbourne, was inspired enough by trips to Los Angeles and New York to roll out his very own Taco Truck. Even the suburbs have caught the Latin beat: across town Lilian Funes de Murga has found a ready market for El Salvador’s national dish, the pupusa – a kind of maize tortilla with a variety of fillings. Back in New South Wales the contagion has crept up the Central Coast, where Nigdali Reed and her husband Adrian Reed have brought exuberant authentic Mexican cooking to the Avalon surf crowd. And for the Adelaide Festival in March, the creative and culinary talents that make up The Happy Motel catering installation will likewise be tapping into the trend.
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L
L ATI N
a t
L
i o n v e r LOVERS
s
S -T- A- G -E
Drawing on numerous trips to Mexico they’ll dole out thousands of tacos in a specially designed space built to hold 2000 people that will function as a barrio containing bars with different themes, from tiki to tequila. To gain insight into what’s driving this Aussie love of all things Latin American, Chef’s Special gathered these champions together in breezy Palm Beach, just north of Sydney, and sat them down to lunch. CHEF’S
can
SPECIAL:
Guys,
explain
what’s
you
prompted the Latin American food
revolution
in
Australia?
ALEJANDRO SARACENI,
Boca :
“Australians are beef eaters – it’s all about the barbie. And the parilla is basically a barbie on steroids.” MATT LANE,
Mamasita :
“It was funny, when I left Melbourne, Spanish tapas was the big thing, and when I got to New York City that had been the big thing about five years before and now it was Mexican. I watched it take New York by storm and then Oaxaca started happening in London and getting a lot of press. All of a sudden Mexican just seemed to be the new trend everywhere, but when I got back to Melbourne and caught up with Jase (Jason Jones) we both realised, you know, it just wasn’t being done here.” RAFAEL RASHID,
Taco Truck :
“I think the flavours are just an extension of where we’ve
I- N -T-E -R- N -A-T-I- O -N- A -L
connective tissue breaks down. There are no marinades. The biggest issue is controlling the coals, which isn’t easy at first.”
been. We’re already educated on things like coriander and lime through the Thai explosion. Food is like stepping stones – you start on a path and it leads all different ways.”
CARLO JENSEN,
LILIAN FUNES DE MURGA, Los Latinos : “When it comes
to pupusas, it’s the novelty. When I opened, all I knew was that the market was right. I’d been to a couple of festivals and I saw there was a demand. And yes, when I think about it there were a lot of Colombians and Mexicans coming to Australia, and the dollar has been high so people have been going overseas and experiencing the food as well, and they were looking for it here.”
M A M A S I TA
OMAR ANDRADE,
is
LO S L ATI N O S
El Capo :
to Latin
meat the
American
JAMES BROWN,
Neon Lobster :
PABLO GALINDO VARGAS, Rojo Rocket : “In the north of
“Plus there’s a whole new generation who are well and truly entrenched between being Latin American and Australian and they’re maturing now.” How
Neon Lobster :
“You can’t replace that big piece of meat on charcoal. Fat is so important, and that smell, wafting across 200 metres.”
“The dish we’re doing – the Al Pastor – is like the Mexican equivalent to Gyros. You can walk around in any city in Australia at 10pm or 1am and people are eating Gyros. It’s exactly the same with Al Pastor in Mexico.”
JORDAN JEAVONS, Neon Lobster : “Australia’s pretty
hungry to learn new food styles, and all the chefs that I know are sick of doing things in straightforward kitchens. They want charcoal grills and wood ovens.”
O-N T- H - E S -T- A- G -E
integral various
Mexico people eat a lot of meat, in the south people are 90 per cent vegetarian. Barbacoa, where lamb is cooked under the earth, is traditional in the centre of Mexico, and you know, a lot of the meat we consume in Mexico City comes from Australia and New Zealand.” LANE: “With a lot of Latin American cooking they use different cuts than we do here. They do a lot of slow-braised meat which lends itself perfectly to Mexican cuisine. And they tend to use all the animal, especially in Argentinean and El Salvadorian cooking...” JASON JONES,
Mamasita :
“Shoulder, belly, shin, offal… We’ve got a bit of offal going on our menu, though the Australian palate’s not hugely adventurous on that side. It's just chefs and a few others who’ll eat it.”
cuisines?
“Whether you’re talking about beef or chicken or pork or lamb, meat is central to it all.” SARACENI: “Argentinean meat is just about salt and charcoal, and slow cooking so all the ANDRADE:
EL CAPO
21
O-N
So you
how be
American
T- H-E I- N -T-E -R- N -A-T-I- O -N- A -L
authentic with cooking
can Latin here?
BROWN: “We’re coming at this from a different angle. The recipes we’re doing are made by grandmas. When you go to Mexico and eat something on the street it’s been handed down through the family. I don’t know how you can really replicate that.” LANE: “At Mamasita we started out putting on a few dishes that no one had ever heard of, things like huitlacoche, which is like a fungus that grows on the outside of corn, the Mexican version of truffle. It’s pretty earthy. But it’s hard to source lots of products, especially cheeses. We’re pretty much authentic right up to that point, but then we have to buy tinned cactus, huitlacoche…” JONES: “You can’t get cat, you can’t get iguana! That’s old school Mexican. I’ve got a recipe book that’s got a recipe for Cat in Beer!” LANE: “…But although in some ways our food isn’t as authentic, in others our produce is a lot better.” JEAVONS: “People are starting to grow all the products that are used in Mexican cooking. All the chillies that are coming over dried from Mexico are starting to be grown in little hobby farms.” JENSON: “Yep, we’ve got people growing tomatillos for us, where otherwise we’d have to get them from a tin. People are just willing to do it.” RASHID: “What I do in the truck is more what I call
22
NEON LOBSTER
S -T- A- G -E
Mel-Mex. It’s a Melbourne take on Mexican using high-quality ingredients that are super fresh – corn, fruit, nuts and seeds for our salsas. So they’re almost like big salads that we put together with marinated meats. We’re sympathetic towards the aesthetic, but we work with what’s available locally.” JEAVONS: “Argentina, for instance, is so driven by meat but you’ve got to bring in other elements because people here want really fresh things on top. There’s no reason not to play with the original ideas but then shake them up.” What
surprises
diners
most
about what you’re dishing up? NIGDALI REED,
ROJO ROCKET
ROJO ROCKET
Rojo Rocket :
“I think it’s the combinations. They’ll be like ‘what do you mean a pineapple sauce?’ They just can’t imagine pineapple with coriander and onion.” ANDRADE: “Everyone knows raisins and pickled onions but they don’t know them together. There’s nothing really groundbreaking here. It’s like Chinese, it’s always balancing the sweet with the sour, and then the salt and the texture.” VARGAS: “People expect that our food is very hot, very spicy. But it’s really not. In Mexican food we have more than 1000 different kinds of chillies, but they can be very hot or not hot at all. The majority we use just for flavour… just spicy enough to be beautiful.”
I- N -T-E -R- N -A-T-I- O -N- A -L
Is
it
fair
Mexican
to
food
the
most
food
in
say has
thing. The style is about a relaxed feel about life, similar to Australians, and the food is the same.”
that been
misrepresented the
world?
“It’s terrible, it’s absolutely shocking! People come to a Mexican restaurant and in their mind are fajitas, tortillas, burritos, enchiladas and whatever else. So all our waitresses are trained to defend our flag!” VARGAS: “The United States took part of our kitchen that is pretty much Tex-Mex, but they used probably the worst part. Because Tex-Mex is not bad at all. It’s good. But they made it cheap, made it bad and for the supermarkets and big fast food chains. And then they said it was Mexican.” LANE: “I was blown away by Mexican food when I really discovered what it could be. I really like light healthy food, and I never realised Mexican food could be that or was that.”
O-N T- H - E S -T- A- G -E
REED:
BOCA
Do you see a natural affinity for
Australians
with
the
Latin America way of eating?
“You know, Avoca reminds me a little bit of Mexico – it’s surrounded by water, by fresh food, people fishing, people surfing... They enjoy food, they love drinking. Somehow the Anglo Saxon and the Latin thing, they have met together there.” ANDRADE: “I think it’s about soul. When you bring in the company and the atmosphere, Latin food can be a beautiful REED:
TACO TRU C K
23
Chef Jason Jones
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lamb (rump or loin) portions for roasting picked mint sliced & pickled jalapenos
AdobO sauce 20ml vegetable oil 3 medium dry ancho chillies, stemmed, seeded, and torn into flat pieces 3 cloves of garlic 1 tsp dried oregano 1/2 tsp black pepper 1/2 tsp cumin 1 pinch ground cloves salt 20g sugar 1/4 cup cider vinegar 800ml chicken stock 1 small red onion, finely diced 1/4 cup dried cranberries, chopped 1/2 bunch coriander, chopped
Heat oil in pan and toast chillies, 1 or 2 at a time, until blistered. Transfer to a bowl and soak in hot water. Allow to rehydrate for 20 minutes. Place the garlic, oregano, pepper, cumin, cloves, salt, sugar, vinegar, red onion, cranberries and coriander in a food processor. Add the rehydrated chillies, liquid and all. Process to a smooth paste. Pass off. Add sauce to a pan, reduce to a thick sauce. Stir in stock; reduce again to a light texture. Season, cool and refrigerate. Cook lamb to order. Serve with sauce, jalapenos and mint.
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Dough
2 cups of Maseca or Masa Lista (source from Mexican stores such as Casa Iberica in Melbourne or Azteca Mexican Import Products in Sydney) 2 cups water, about 25ºC Make dough by combining flour and the water. Knead until smooth. Chef Lilian Funes De Murga
A pupusa is a stuffed corn-tortilla, usually served with spicy coleslaw called Curtido. This recipe makes both. Pupusas originated in El Salvador, but immigrants have taken the dish to other Central American countries.
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ThE fillings 1kg beef skirt 1 tomato 1 green capsicum, roughly chopped 1/2 onion grated Mozzarella cheese to taste salt and pepper Slow cook the beef with the 1/2 onion and the tomato until soft and easy to separate, salt and pepper to taste. Add the green pepper just before the cooking is finished. Process everything in a food processor until it's coarsely chopped. Add mozzarella cheese depending on your taste.
ThE Pupusas make a ball with the dough. Insert your thumb in the ball and make a hole in the centre. Fill the hole with the meat mixture; close the hole by pushing the dough up on all sides. Clap your hands together carefully (so that the filling doesn't come out) and flatten the ball. Cook on a slightly greased griddle pan over low-medium heat one to two minutes on each side. Pupusas are topped with pickled cabbage.
CurtidO (pickleD coleslaw) >> Begin a week ahead. chopped cabbage that has been quickly passed through boiling water 1 medium onion, sliced 1 carrot, finely shredded cooked green beans, not too soft (optional) beetroot (optional) horseradish vinegar or lime juice water 2 tsp dry oregano salt to taste In a glass or plastic jar with a wide opening, mix all the ingredients. Add vinegar and water to taste. Mix with a wooden spoon. Put the mix in the refrigerator and let it rest for a week so that the ingredients pickle.
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Chefs Jordan Jeavons Andy Nowell
Al PastoR Marinade 2kg lamb shoulder, deboned • juice of 3 oranges • 200g ground Achiote (paste) 10 dry Guajillo chilies (deseeded) • 1 white onion, chopped • 3 cloves of garlic • 1 tbsp white pepper 1 cup white vinegar • 1 tsp of ground cinnamon • salt Salsa Taquera 10 tomatillos 2 roma tomatoes • 4 Chipotle chillis (2 for mild) • 1 serrano chilli • 1 cup water • 1 tbsp dry oregano (Mexican if possible) • 1 tbsp sea salt • 1 tbsp black pepper • 1/8 cup white vinegar • 2 cloves of garlic Salsa Verde 1 white onion • 1 bunch coriander • 1/4 cup of capers • 2 limes • sea salt Other 1/2 pineapple cut into 1cm thick slices • 40 6-inch corn flour tortillas The Wizards of Crustacea suggest Quiche-fed Australian Lamb! Al pastor is a dish developed in Central Mexico, as a result of the adoption of the shawarma spit-grilled meat brought by Lebanese immigrants to Mexico. Al pastor in Mexico is traditionally made from pork, but tastes much better with lamb. As lamb is the apple of Australia's eye, we'd like to knight this dish as "Australexican" fare.
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Salsa Taquera Boil the tomatillos and the tomatoes together. Once boiled, drain and remove the tomato skins and place both in a food processor. Add the rest of the ingredients and blend. In a jar, this salsa will last for a month in the fridge. Salsa Verde Chop the onions, capers and coriander and mix together with the lime juice and add salt to taste. A dash of neutral oil can be used if the mixture is a little dry. LamB anD Marinade Soak the deseeded Guajillo chilies in hot water. When soft, remove from water and place in the food processor. Add the vinegar, orange juice, chopped onion, garlic cloves, cinnamon, and blend. Add the Achiote paste and white pepper, and blend until smooth. Add salt to taste. This marinade will last for a fortnight if refrigerated. Rub the marinade into every nook and cranny of the lamb shoulder and leave for a minimum of three hours (overnight is best). To cook, seal the shoulder over hot charcoals or a scolding barbeque, a little char is good, but try not to burn the marinade. Once sealed, continue cooking in a moderate oven (180ยบC) until just cooked, being careful not to dry out the meat. Whilst the meat is in the oven, chargrill or barbeque the slices of pineapple until soft. SERVINGS Warm tortillas in a pan or on the barbeque, being careful not to dry them out. Cover the stack with a moist tea towel to preserve moisture. Slice the lamb into thin strips, and place around 60g onto each tortilla. Add a little salsa verde, a few chunks of pineapple and finish with a dash of the salsa taquera. Tacos can be temperamental little buggers, so eat immediately to avoid either dryness or sogginess.
In a large pot, roast the garlic cloves over medium heat, turning from time to time, until soft and blackened in spots, 10 to 15 minutes. While the garlic is roasting, roast the banana peppers over an open fflame, turning regularly, until they are blistered and blackened in spots. Let the garlic cool, then peel and roughly chop. Cut a slit in the side of each chilli. Sprinkle the meat with salt, sear all sides to a rich golden brown – this will take about 10 minutes. Braise the meat. Pour the tomatoes, along with the roasted garlic, red onion, green capsicum, black pepper, oregano and Epazote into a large pot. Cook until the mixture starts to thicken, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, mash the Achiote paste and vinegar together until smooth. When the sauce has reduced, stir in the Achiote mixture and enough water (usually about 2 cups) to bring the depth to about 3/4 of the roasting tin. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 teaspoon. Nestle the meat and whole roasted chillies into the sauce, cover the pot and slide into the middle of the oven. Cook until the meat is tender and is nearly falling apart, about 2 hours. Remove the meat and store in some braising liquid, reduce the remainder until thickened. Serve with green shallot rounds, lime juice and habanero tea.
10 Short Ribs 2 heads of garlic 12 hot banana peppers 4 tbsp veg oil 1kg canned tomato 2 red onion, sliced into 3cm slices 1 1/2 green capsicum, deseeded sliced into 3 cm pieces
2 tsp black pepper 2 tbsp Mexican oregano 100g Achiote paste 4 tbsp vinegar 2 tbsp Epazote
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Chef Omar Andrade
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Picadillo Panfry the garlic and the onion; add the beef mince and the prosciutto and finally the tomatoes. Add the stock and cook until the liquid evaporates. Add the spices, the fruits - chopped in small cubes, the sultanas, almonds, jelly, sugar and the Sherry. Add salt and cook until it thickens. Cool down and reserve. Chillies Fry the chillies in hot oil for 15 seconds on each side. Put the chillies inside a plastic bag with sea salt, close the bag and leave the chillies to cool slightly. Take the chillies out and peel them. Open the chillies by the middle and take out the seeds. Stuff the chillies with the Picadillo and reserve. Nogada Blend the walnuts with the cream cheese, and the sherry. If the sauce is too thick, dilute it with milk. Reserve. Presentation Serve the chillies at room temperature, cover them with the Nogada and garnish with the seeds of the pomegranate, parsley and chopped walnuts.
The Chile en Nogada has the colours of the Mexican flag and is consumed during September, the month of Mexican Independence Day. During this season the walnuts are fresh and the pomegranates are ripe. It was first prepared on September 28th, 1821, made by the nuns of the Santa Monica Convent in Puebla to honour Agustin de Iturbide, who had declared himself emperor of Mexico the day before. Cooking with the walnut sauce or stuffing a chilli had been done before however it was on that day that the dish became synonymous with the country’s independence from Spain.
Picadillo 6 tbsp oil 2 cloves of garlic 4 tbsp onion, chopped 1kg beef mince 100g prosciutto, chopped 1kg tomato, chopped 4 cups beef stock 1 pinch saffron 1 pinch ground clove 1 pinch ground cinnamon 2 apples 2 pears 2 peaches 60g sultanas 80g almonds 150g quince jelly 2 tbsp sugar 1 cup dry Sherry salt
Chillies 8 poblano chillies Nogada 200 fresh walnuts 350g cream cheese 100ml dry Sherry
Chef Pablo Galindo Va rgas
Presentation 2 pomegranates
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1 whole carcase of spring lamb salt as needed salsa provencale* chimichurri* salsa criolla*
Chefs Alexjandro Saraceni Inigo Castillo
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Lamb Heat up coals in the parilla and arrange so the lamb can be cooked using the indirect heat (if lamb is put directly over the coals it will burn). Place lamb in large container and season liberally with salt. Rub the Salsa Provencale* on the lamb. Place lamb over hot parilla, turning to ensure all sides brown. Leave it to cook for 6 hours or until cooked through and tender. Serve with Chimichurri* and Salsa Criolla*.
*Salsa Provencale 4 bunches parsley 250g garlic 240ml vinegar 240ml olive oil salt as needed Pick parsley and chop finely. Place in a bowl. Chop garlic and add to the parsley. Mix in vinegar and olive oil. Add salt to taste.
*CHIMICHURRI 1 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, firmly packed 3-4 cloves of garlic 2 tbsp oregano 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tbsp red/white wine vinegar 1 tsp sea salt 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes Finely chop the parsley, fresh oregano, and garlic (or pulse in a food processor). Place in a small bowl. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Adjust seasonings. Serve immediately or refrigerate. If chilled, return to room temperature before serving. Can keep for a day or two.
*Salsa CRIOLLA 2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 red/yellow capsicum, finely chopped 1/2 green capsicum, finely chopped 1 clove of garlic, minced 2 tbsp olive oil 1/4 cup chopped coriander salt and freshly ground pepper In a bowl, combine the tomatoes with the onion, capsicums, garlic, olive oil and coriander. Season with salt and pepper.
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1 tongue 1 pc tripe 2 onions, diced 2 bay leaves 1 bunch of coriander/leaves, roughly chopped,
Chef Rafael Rashid
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retain root salt 1 head garlic, peeled and roughly chopped pepitas toasted 1 cup panko bread crumbs 2 tsp onion powder rice flour 2 eggs, beaten 2 tbsp oil vegetable oil for deep frying 1 avocado, thinly sliced 1 orange, thinly sliced 2 limes
Heat oil in a large pot and slowly cook 1 onion, garlic and root of coriander. Place the tongue on top of the diced onions and add enough water to cover. Add bay leaves and salt and pepper. Bring to boil and let simmer for 3.5 hours. Meanwhile, give the tripe a good wash, slice into thin strips approx 5cm long. Add onion powder to bread crumb and mix through. Roll tripe strips in the rice flour then dunk in egg then roll in the bread crumb. Cover with cling wrap and put in the fridge until ready to cook. Check on the tongue from time to time ensuring there is enough liquid. Remove tongue from liquid and let cool for 10 minutes, then peel the outer skin of the tongue off with your hands or knife. Use the top back section of the tongue and either shred the meat with a fork or slice very thinly. Sprinkle with a little salt and 2 teaspoons of the cooking liquid. Heat a small pot with oil for deep frying; bring oil to around 170ºC. Fry the tripe strips until golden brown, remove and place on some paper towel. Heat tortilla and place some tongue on one half and tripe on the other. Then top with orange, avocado and a few Pepitas. Garnish with some diced onion, coriander and a good squeeze of lime.
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Easy Peasy Vadouvan Spiced Hanger Steak with
Angel Hair Fries p
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200g Hanger steak 125g fries Vadouvan > 4 onions cut into 1-inch pieces 450g shallots, halved . 12 garlic cloves, peeled 1/4 cup vegetable oil . 1 tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tbsp thinly sliced fresh curry leaves (optional) 1 tbsp ground cumin . 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp brown mustard seeds . 3/4 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg . 1/2 tsp hot red pepper flakes 1/4 tsp ground cloves . salt and pepper
Method for Spice
Preheat oven to 175ÂşC. Pulse onions in 3 batches in a food processor until very coarsely chopped (there may be a few large pieces remaining), transferring to a bowl. Repeat with shallots, then garlic. Heat oil in a deep 12-inch heavy non-stick skillet over high heat until it simmers, then sautĂŠ onions, shallots, and garlic (stir often) until golden and browned in spots, 25 to 30 minutes. Grind fenugreek seeds with mortar and pestle. Add to onion mixture along with remaining ingredients, salt and pepper to taste, and stir until combined. Transfer to a parchment-paper-lined large 4-sided sheet pan and spread as thinly and evenly as possible. Bake in the middle of the oven, stirring occasionally to separate onions, until well browned and barely moist: 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
Method
Roll Hanger steak in Vadouvan spice mix. Cook no more than medium rare. Serve with fries on the sidge.
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1 ......... Slit chillies lengthwise, then stem and seed (leave veins for heat). Heat a dry large heavy skillet (not non-stick) over medium heat until hot, then toast chillies in batches, opened f lat, turning and pressing with tongs, until more pliable and slightly changed in colour, about 30 seconds per batch. 2 ......... Transfer chillies to a bowl and soak in hot water until softened, 20 to 30 minutes. 3 ......... Peel tomatoes and coarsely chop, reserving juice. 4 ......... Preheat oven to 175ÂşC. 5 ......... Cut goat at joints to separate into pieces and put in a shallow baking dish. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. 6 ......... Drain chillies, discarding soaking water, and purĂŠe in a blender with tomatoes and reserved juice, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and remaining ingredients (except tortillas) until very smooth, about 1 minute. 7 ......... Pour sauce over meat, turning to coat, then cover dish tightly with a double layer of foil and braise in oven until meat is very tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Remove from oven and cool meat in liquid, uncovered, 30 minutes. 8 ......... Coarsely shred meat, discarding bones, and then mix back into braising liquid in dish. Return to oven and cook, covered, until sauce is simmering, about 30 minutes more. 9 ......... Fifteen minutes before goat is done, make 2 stacks of tortillas and wrap each stack in foil, then heat in oven on rack alongside baking dish. 10 ......... Serve goat with warm tortillas and accompaniments.
sliced lettuce / chopped coriander / chopped white onion / lime wedges
A c c o m p a n i m e n t s : sliced radish / crumbled Queso Fresco / Salsa Verde
3 dried Guajillo or New Mexico chillies, wiped clean / 2 dried Ancho chillies, wiped clean 450g t o m a t o e s / 1kg - 1.5kg b o n e - i n g o a t c u t s u c h a s s h o u l d e r , n e c k , o r l e g 3 cloves g a r l i c / 1 1/2 tsp d r i e d o r e g a n o / 1 tsp d i s t i l l e d w h i t e v i n e g a r 5 w h o l e b l a c k p e p p e r c o r n s / 3 w h o l e c l o v e s / 2 b a y l e a v e s / 16 to 24 c o r n t o r t i l l a s
O-N
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1 ......... Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan on medium high heat. Add the carrots and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the chopped onion and celery. 2 ......... Cook, stirring occasionally until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for 30 more seconds. Remove from heat. Remove vegetables from the pan to a medium sized bowl, set aside. 3 ......... Using the same pan, generously salt the bottom of the pan (about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon). Heat the pan on high. Crumble the beef mince into the pan. Do not stir the beef; just let it cook until it is well browned on one side. Then f lip the pieces over and brown the second side. Use a slotted spoon to remove the beef mince from the pan (can add to the set-aside vegetables), salt the pan again and repeat with the rest of the ground beef. Strain off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. 4 ......... Return the cooked beef mince and vegetables to the pan. Add the tomato sauce, pureed tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and brown sugar to the pan. Stir to mix well. Add ground cloves, thyme, and cayenne pepper. Lower the heat to medium low and let simmer for 10 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste. 5 ......... Serve with toasted hamburger buns.
600g b e e f m i n c e / 1 tbsp o l i v e o i l / 1/2 cup c a r r o t s , m i n c e d / 1 cup c h o p p e d o n i o n 1/2 cup c e l e r y , c h o p p e d c h o p p e d / 2 cloves g a r l i c , m i n c e d / 1/2 cup t o m a t o s a u c e 2 cups c a n w h o l e t o m a t o e s , p u r é e d / 1 tbsp W o r c e s t e r s h i r e s a u c e / 1 tbsp r e d w i n e v i n e g a r 2 tbsp b r o w n s u g a r / p i n c h g r o u n d c l o v e s / 1/2 tsp d r i e d t h y m e / p i n c h c a y e n n e p e p p e r salt & pepper / 4 hamburger buns
h. a. m
# 1695 —
Beef ribs are prepared from the Forequarter and comprise the rib bone, intercostals and a portion of rib meat. The number of ribs and portion size is determined by the type of dish being prepared.
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O-N-E W-O-N-D-E-R-S
C-U-T
S T IC KY B EE F s h o r t ri b, wat e r melon , G IN GER , r adi sh, c o r i an de r salad 2kg beef Short Ribs M a s t e r s t o c k 4lt chicken stock / 60g ginger, sliced not peeled / 6 cloves garlic, smashed 3 star anise / 2 lemongrass, smashed / 40g coriander seed, toasted the zest of 4 oranges / 400ml Shaoxing Rice Wine / 500ml light soy / 300g palm sugar
— Combine all ingredients (except ribs), bring to the boil and allow to infuse overnight. Split the Short Ribs into individual bones and braise until soft. — Remove from the braising liquid and reduce down to half. — Return the ribs to the master stock and continue reducing, periodically spooning over the ribs to form a glaze.
w a t e r m e l o n s a l a D watermelon, cut in large cubes / breakfast radish, shaved into discs fresh coconut, shaved / spring onion, finely sliced / pickled ginger / coriander, picked
N u m P l a d r e s s i n g fish sauce / ginger, chopped / chilli, chopped / lime juice / palm sugar
— Vacuum pack the watermelon with a couple of tablespoons of num pla dressing. T o
s e r v E
— Remove watermelon from vacuum and mix with the rest of the ingredients. — Artfully place the melon and other salad ingredients, lean two of the ribs against a cube and top with coriander, toasted rice and num pla dressing.
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O-N-E W-O-N-D-E-R-S
C-U-T
sho r t ri b PANC AKE PA R T Y
chose Short Rib as it wasn't on many menus around Sydney and it's “ We a great cut for braising - good fat content and heaps of flavour. We find
it is profitable cut for us. We use grassfed veal from Mirragong, on average the veal is around 10 months old. It ended up on the menu when Limbo (Thomas Lim) made braised Short Ribs for staff meal once; we had some leftover and put together a few different versions for VIPs that came into Duke. Since then it's gone through a few different variations with the accompaniments. Maccas (McDonalds) mustard was the inspiration for the sauce component.
”
2kg veal Short Rib / 20g tomato paste / 40ml soy sauce 120ml maple syrup / 60ml milk / water to cover 12 chinese pancakes (warmed in steamer or oven) / 1 telegraph cucumber, julienned 1 punnet woodear mushrooms, sliced / lotus root shaved and fried 1 bunch shiso leaves, sliced / honey mustard (American mustard and honey to taste)
— Cut Short Ribs into single ribs. In a heavy based pan, caramelise the ribs, seasoning with a little salt. — Place ribs in a gastronome or oven proof tray. — Whisk tomato paste, soy, maple syrup and milk together, pour over ribs. Top up with water until ribs are covered. Wrap tray tightly in foil. — Braise for 4 hours at 150ºC or until meat is tender and falling off the bone. T o
s e r v e
— Serve ribs in a bowl with garnishes on the side for self assembly at the table.
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is a great dish that can be “ This prepared before hand, easy service
B EE F s h o r t ri bs in
and tastes fantastic; the tartness of the tamarind and the sticky rib is a perfect match.
”
tama rind
900g beef Short Rib / 2lt master stock / 2 oranges, zest / 1 lemon zest 200ml tamarind sauce / picked fresh coriander and bean shoots, oyster mushroom 2 bok choy, quartered & washed / Black sesame / 10ml roast sesame oil
— Start the day before. Braise Short Ribs in Master stock (see recipe below) with two oranges and lemon zest for 2 hours. — Allow to cool in the stock, remove and portion. — Place in the Tamarind sauce (see recipe below) and heat in the oven for 10 mins at 170 ºC. (Careful not to burn) Reserve sauce. T o
s e r v e
— Spoon some sauce in the middle of a bowl or plate. — Stir-fry the bean shoots, bok choy and mushroom, add the coriander and black sesame then dress with sesame oil and place on sauce. — Sit a braised rib on top and spoon over a little more sauce. — Garnish with coriander.
***Note the excess Tamarind sauce and the Master stock can be stored for other uses.
Sp i c e d T a m a r i n d S a u c e ° M a k e s 5 0 0 m l 1/2 stalk lemongrass / 2 cardamom pods / 1 tsp curry powder 1/4 tsp turmeric powder / 2 cloves garlic, minced / 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced 1/2 onion, diced / 1/2 tsp cumin / 2 pc coriander roots, diced / 1/3 pc cinnamon stick 300g packet Tamarind pulp / 50ml honey / 150ml tomato sauce
— Dilute Tamarind in warm water until it becomes a thick paste, strain. — In a medium hot saucepan add 60ml oil and sauté onion, turmeric, chilli, lemongrass, coriander, cinnamon stick, cardamom, garlic and ginger until aromatic. — Add cumin and curry powder and cook out. Add honey and caramelise. — Add tomato sauce and Tamarind and cook out until a sauce consistency. M a s t e r S t o c k ° M a k e s 2 l t s 2lt beef stock / 1 tbsp honey / 100ml soy sauce (low salt) / 1 tsp sesame oil 150ml mirin / 150ml rice wine vinegar / 2 red chillies / 100g ginger 3 cloves garlic / 50g pancetta / 1 small bunch coriander stalks / 5 large shallots 1 stick lemongrass / 4 star anise / 1 quill cinnamon, split
— Add all ingredients and spices. — Bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes.
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B - I -T- E
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W a g y u W h a t ? Purebred Wagyu is developed as a result of the breeding a Fullblood Wagyu
Wagyu refers to several bloodlines of a Japanese breed of cattle genetically predisposed to intense marbling and to producing a high percentage of unsaturated fat. The meat from Wagyu cattle is known worldwide for its marbling characteristics, increased eating quality through a naturally enhanced flavour, tenderness and juiciness, and thus a high market value.
Wagyu in Australia is a relatively new breed, with its introduction into Australia in the early 1990s. In more recent times Wagyu genetics are being sought on Australian beef properties as a way to genetically increase eating quality. There are two types of Wagyu produced in Australia: Fullblood and Purebred. It’s important to note the differences. Fullblood is the Japanese Black Wagyu that has not had any other breed crossed into their breeding — 100% wagyu. A Fullblood animal is the offspring of a Wagyu Sire and a Wagyu Dam whose forebears originate from Japan and whose pedigrees show no evidence of any other breed.
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with a base animal such as an Angus and can only be referred to as Purebred if it contains 93.75% Fullblood wagyu genetics (an F4). From the initial mating of a Fullblood animal with a base animal (the Angus, for example) a first cross, F1 (50% Wagyu blood, 50% Angus), is produced. The heifer (female progeny) is usually retained and mated back to a Fullblood bull. The progeny of this second mating results in an F2 (75% Wagyu blood, 25% Angus). The progeny from the mating then produces the 3rd cross and so on until as many crosses have been made — often up to 7 or 8 with no further introduction of any other breed other than Wagyu.
The further the number is away from F1 the more Wagyu content of that animal. The majority of Australian Wagyu is Purebred Wagyu with some brands producing highly sought after Fullblood herds.
S-I-Z-E-D
B -I-T-E
W h at ' s i n a c a r c a s E ?
T Y PIC A L w e igh t
% of Live w e igh t
L i v e w eigh t less _ head, hooves,hide, offal, etc
500kgs (215kgs)
100% 47%
C A RC A SE w eigh t less _ fat & bone
265kgs ( 72kgs)
53%
SA L e a bl e me at made up of _ Prime cuts Other cuts Saleable trimmings
% of C A RC A SE w e igh t
100% 27%
190kgs
73%
24kgs 98kgs 72kgs
9% 37% 27%
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S-I-Z-E-D
M- O -M-E-N-T-A-R-Y
At the PA r ill a — Sa n Telmo, Melbou r ne
Chef Chr is Mor a n — Melbou r ne V IC
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23r d Nov ember 2011 — 4:30pm
Chef Chris Moran knows his coals. Operating the parilla (pronounced p a h - r e e - sa h ) a t M e l b o u r n e ’ s n e w e s t Argentinean restaurant, San Telmo in Meyer Place, Chris works the coals to cook over 500kg of beef a week — anything from cheeks, short ribs, flank and hanger to striploin steaks, scotches and rib eyes. All this over a 2.5 meter grill — the parilla — steadily heated only by coals, stoked throughout the day and night. All the chefs, at San Telmo were trained (Chris included) on this particular parilla by the manufacturer who travelled with it all the way from Argentina.
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E -X-T-R-A- S
Ethnic restaurants are no longer defined by tectonic plates; it’s now about the specifics. No matter from where on the globe, there is a zoom-in on the foodscapes and culinary signatures of particular countries, regions, states, even villages. Think of the Peruvian stir spreading throughout Australia, the Oaxaca craze, Southern Italian obsession and Barbacoa of the Taino people.
Get Specific
We get it – the expanding waistlines of Aussie punters are not your responsibility. You’re not designing menus for those weight loss companies that home deliver cardboard flavoured, over-cooked carrots. And we agree - all that butter does makes it better. Like it or not though, your customer does want a bit of help when in the dining scene. But don’t roll your eyes, sigh and turn the page yet! Chef’s Special is not asking you to throw away your creative culinary genius by compromising flavour with low fat dairy alternatives or making any sodium sacrifices. We are talking WHOLE foods and whole FLAVOUR. Fresh, clean and natural. You don’t have to know your periodic table off by heart to be eating healthy these days. Healthy is now simply about real food! Balance actual food with appropriate portion sizes- it doesn’t get healthier than that.
S t e a lt h H e a lt h F o o d s
The Chef’s Guide to What’s Hot in 2012 H Y P E R - LOCAL S O U R CI N G Social Media The new virtual top of the mountain where diners can shout about their “most incredible meal ever” experiences with anyone who will listen. The down side is that they can also shout about their not so incredible experiences to anyone who cares. Love it or loathe it, it’s here to stay and it is worth at least considering whether you want to and can manage your own “shout outs”. As consumers want to know more and more about food, ingredients and how a meal has been prepared, this is your chance to engage with them first-hand about what your establishment does and what experience they can have when they dine with you. Beware, it does take some commitment to maintain this sort of relationship with your customers, but it can pay off with more loyal diners who want to enjoy all the masterpieces you are creating for them.
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We said it last year and we’re saying it again, hyper-local sourcing is still the It-Kid of the moment. Move over Locavores! Think restaurant gardens, DIY butchering, inner-city foraging, in-house smoking and curing. With the Chef’s Special Butchery Master Class in every issue and MLA’s Basic Guide to butchering beef, lamb and goat DVD at your fingertips, if you haven’t already grabbed yourself a beef hindquarter to break down you’re slow off the mark.
E -X-T-R-A- S
In Australia there are so many red meat production methods,so many post-production methods (think dry-aging or newly fabricated cuts), so many breeds, so many farms, so many farmers and you know they’re amazing; let’s all shout it from the rooftops! But Chef’s Special would also be happy if you just put the detail on your menus. Your customers would too - they’re looking for that scoop straight from the farm. Whether it be biodynamic or 650-day grainfed, Angus or rare breed, from Cape York or North West Tassie whatever it is, wear it proudly.
Being a tight arse has never been so hot. Ribs and belly, oxtail, brisket, shin, neck and skirt are just some of the underrated and underutilised cuts of red meat which, if you know anything about supply and demand, aren’t going to break the bank. Even the ‘wobbly’ bits are getting a mention. However all these must be got from a well raised beast with a story to boot! Look to branded beef, lamb and goat as well as red meat produced under the MSA™ grading system for something a little bit ‘spesh’.
P o i n t o u t y o ur ‘ P ODs ’
Th e c h e a p e s t fr o m the fanc y
Who can we thank for giving Korean food the limelight of late? David Chang of Momofuku? Roy Choi from Koji? What about the recently Michelin starred Korean restaurant Danji of NYC? Whatever has caused this upsurge of gochujang-inflected menus, those of us who like the spicy, pickly, zingy, garlicy, fermented yum-yums from our Asian neighbours can do the old air-punch all the way to our respective Korea-Towns.
K O R EA N I N F L U E N CE
Th e following trends are the 2012 food frontiers according to Australia’s only red meat j ournal , C h e f ’ s S p ec i a l M aga zine:
N O G OAT , N O G LO R Y Goat meat will transcend its ethnic boundaries this year and be found on all sorts of menus from the classic to the fused. No longer will the word association with ‘Goat’ be ‘Curry’ as farmers producing quality branded goats allow for such delicious, delightful, delovelies as, slow roasted goat rump with 70% chocolate ganache, house-made goat ham, goat tacos and yummy, char grilled who-would-have-thought-you’d-eversee-this-goat-cut-on-a menu cutlets!
P. S . Some other trends that are either continuing or appearing on the horizon are: Cross border cuisine pollination is going to be big with diners demanding the whole world on their plates – think wasabi encrusted lamb belly Epigramme or beef Bulgogi tortillas; corning, pickling and curing is still big with chefs shoving anything not nailed down in vinegar or covering the weird and the wonderful in salt; meeting the maker – get out there in your wellies and meet a beef, lamb or goat farmer this year – especially as 2012 is the Year of the Farmer... need we say more?
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N - O -T-E - S
Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) is a service company that invests in marketing and research and development on behalf of its 47,500 beef, lamb and goat producer members. Our role within foodservice is to bridge the gap between farm and kitchen by providing chefs with information and inspiration on red meat.
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