Design Research

Page 1

DESIGN RESEARCH III


MY MARKET SEGMENT

Ready

to

BRANDS GAURI

$

fashion Designer Brands westernwear customer ( Attributesanofdmy End Occasion wear

wear

ROCKY

LIKE NAI NIKA SNEHA

STAR

,

KHAN

,

DON 'T

PAPA

PREACH

SHERRI

,

reason

based

on

selecting interest

behind

my

GILL

,

BY

,

GURUNG

PRABAL

SHUBHRA

,

BY

SHEHLNA

JAI SING

MONISM A

,

.

SEGMENT)

( TARGET The

$ NIDHI

PANKAJ

)

such in

segment segment

a

the

is and

purely the

feel personally segment which possibility such brands growing need do western purely for label People nowadays is but designer lot apparel if ladies spending Also especially it that worth it something they find and cocktails they such get togethers occasions is

of

the

-

there

I

a

-

a

wear

,

a

are

on

can

.

.

'

buy

other

for

such

as

events

i

brands like

,

these

might

interest

them

.


faurislhlaiiukh

\

Rocky

Star

,

BRAND ANALYSIS '

I

Pankaj

and Nidhi

l Pombal

Gurung


Rocky -

-

Established

in

1995

first to

-

both

.

occasion

ninth

beautiful couture dummy the

street

.

.

common man

Mission to

create

.

wear

-

-

mostly high

wear

designfor

STAR

for

$

celebrities

-

women

unbound

,

fierce and fearless -

-

vision to create

fashion

at that 're as it is

contemporary traditional

it is

elegant Launched as

-

Rs to

and

-

by influences

innovative

by Rocky make designer

of

as

street

high star

Inspiration

is

-

hands

and Rs

Jeans

accessible# .

the

time

derived

and traces

Gothic

and

Baroque with periods

design

a

,

that is

sensibility aesthetic yet

luminous

in

simplistic

in

style

.


-

$ teatimes Indian Blends heritage crafts embroideries a mission to in , with

opulent

-

the past in clients like Rai

-

magnificent of the present Paris Hilton Aishwarya Beyonce

and celebrate

recreate

,

Katrina

They

had

Bollywood Leone as

ambassador did even with

(7) From

the

.

,

,

Kaif

.

HI

signed

Sunny

actress

the

brand

for

2018

.

He

campaigns many other actors .

the

Rocky

Star

World

-

- -

-

-

-

-

-


PRABAL -

Established

-

committed to

-

His

-

.

-

in

New

quality include customers

focus

-

fashion designer city York domestic employment sustaining innovation es Is .

American

Nepalese Manufacturer -

-

in 2010

on

Michelle Obama

ladies like

GURUNG

-

)

of Cambridge naming them

.

,

,

&

,

'

-

On

build

a

quest a

-

to

bunny

brand with

a

Aponntoulspoken designer

.

interest

topics such as politics feminism

some

of

Takes

.

in

Dutchess

The

-

$ income

est from the

Praful

Gurung

diversity

.


-

Nepal

-

source

a

inspiration

of

colors $ textures

-

-

Nepalese

art $

architecture

feels

-

former first

designed for htt

Lady -

.

Building champions

-

a

Believes

fashion -

In

he in

to have

motivated

of

across

brand that

fashion $ representation visibility

challenging

in

.

the

of

one

casted Nils

'

to

-

,

models

showcase

asia

(9) from the

campaigns

asian

all

19 )

diversity

.

NBC News

$

fashionista


$

PANKAJ -

-

-

Launched celebrated

Inspired

$

in

for

symbolic around

from

2006

fresh

-

$

crisp

sensibility

craftsmanship by cultural objects the

NIDHI

world

-

creations

$

charming

-

are

spontaneous

,

generous colors

-

-

use

with

of

.

Invent

a

clothes

language tell stories -

that

for

women

.

who

$

freedom$ authenticity quest always love

are

on

-

pusher it

(b)

From

the

for originality when envelope

the

comes to

innovation

Pankaj

a

creativity

.

$ Nidhi

-

$

)

cio


-

like Sonam

clients

Kapoor

ceramics

Dhupiou Deepika

plates

,

Padukone name

to

broken

plates

-

be

showcases

layered

broken

,

playing

imbibe

cards

'

strongly lot

a

patterns

of

$

. .

-

-

of

graphic

,

,

rubies

'

boldness

-

glass

to

Collections

colour

,

trumps

,

inspired

-

campaign

Important

-

some

of

the

prints of

Neha

,

One

-

first

designer collaborate with

to

Koons

-

cu

)

Cli

-

)

from the India

Today

.


$

GAURI

Launched

-

evening

.

-

2002

in

wear

offers chic

glamorous elegant for clothing

$

philosophy

old

Is -

feminine

European music

,

European books

red

,

Hollywood

pictures -

-

'

Inspired by art

.

women

is

of

Designs stated

,

their

are

,

Gauri

,

personalities theatre $ carpet glamour the 70 's

luminous

'

421 from the

fashion history

mother

$ Nainika

,

from

yet

feminine Extremely romantic

$

deign philosophy

cocktail dresses

,

Design

-

styles

elaborate bespoke gowns

too

-

.

with brand

ranging from

-

NAI NIKA

under

.

44

,


strong

-

emphasis

Design focus

-

Mostly

-

for

-

self

-

cuts color

flattering

$

wear

,

.

,

femineity

-

most designers Indo western clothes

when

silhouettes

sophisticated

$ embraces

fashion

,

who is

determining

-

shape

occasion

elegant in

on

woman

a

fabric

on

are

making out to make they western wear

,

set

.

purely western wear from demi to ranging offering end high styles semi formal ones

-

-

-

-

-

.

couture

-

clients

include

Padukone Basu

,

to

Kapoor

Kareena

Priyanka name

Chopra

few

"" i

,

Deepika Bipasha ,

.

1137 from the fashion fad


Comparative

Analysis GAURI &NAINIKA

f ÷ t m n m ÷ i .ae#.n-fEgernEifE:iu-

ROCKY STAR INSPIRATION

PRABAL GURUNG

/PHILOSOPHY

Baroque Gothic Nepalese $

arts

architecture

Time

AESTHETICS

÷÷÷÷÷÷÷ :% effigies

staff

.

( PRICE INCOME ) women who are

unbound

,

fearless

fierce like

,

heritage

craftsmanship

European

.

symbolics cultural

books

objects

,

fashion

.

photos

of parents

'

from

70 's

:

TARGET CUSTOMER

Indian

PANKAJ & NIDHI

:

:& :O ?:O

like women who

,

quality

:EFE FEE

,

women who

bold and

:# '%%% gestating a

ooo

glamorous feminine elegant

love

$ & authenticity freedom innovation $ are always colors $ textures quest for ,

like who women

are

on

,

,

a

originality clothing .

-


ANALYSIS

SWOT

GAURI ISNALNIKA PRABAL GURUNG PANKAJ IS NIDHI

mi÷÷÷÷÷¥÷ fE÷:÷¥T÷÷÷÷¥n SWOT

Blinds

strengths

STAR

ROCKY

Indian

crafts work

heritage

his

,

the

to

with

trying past

'

established in international market

,

takes

Pushes the envelope set

when it

to

comes

Is

creativity innovation

out

make

to

purely

western

-

meal

bring strong inspiration # Needs to be more focuses on Needs to focus Makes mostly only -

Weakness

recognised

the

.

more to lead $ more options

-

in

interest

strong

topics

collaborations

,

strong philosophy

Making

online

presence

storm q Lack of spend th

threats

'

online

back

af

presence

,

a

who lot

collaborations

$ earn lot .

a

market

.

common

not

people

collaborations


CONCLUSION FOR BRAND ANALYSIS

After analysing these four brands, I am able to conclude that they have similar customer base and market segment. Similar customer base in the sense that they target customers who love innovation and originality. They all make feminine clothes with crisp cuts and fabrics. All have different aesthetics and inspirations and make according to their philosophy. Some take inspiration from gothic and baroque time, Nepalese architecture and art while some take inspiration from craftsmanship and European fashion. The customer base that they are targeting are more feminine, glamorous and elegant. The price range is mostly high and for people earning high income. They are making clothes for the people who are willing to spend a lot of money on occasions and relationships that matter to them. For my brand I want similar customer base but my aesthetics will be more inspired by nature. Similar customer base in the sense that people who are willing to spend a lot on relationships and occasions that are yet small but is of great importance to them.


FORECASTING FASHION


FASHION

WEEKS

,

TREND

FOR Ed AST

:

taking romantic

# RetroRomance

and embraces

full the

such as

# Colour & Prints #

graphics # Materials $ Details

fits .

1950 s

feminine A

-

rosewater

.

Backties s

shapes

,

,

.

,

whiteout

.

:

styles trend

alaaqua

.

Noiwedaisy photocopy

o

from

linedress

soft grass

:

over

this

,

:

.

-

badtaste

,

sttipeddye considered

bubblerhem

-

" 33

-


# Silhouettes

:

fishnets

into

fringe

,

more

a

Retro

quirky Ruffles

design

length

romantic

continue

details

full

buttons

,

grown up

move

-

,

.

offer inspired feathers

to be

.

patchwork

direction

contemporary -

$

statement

important

-

foe

-

ties

front

hips featured triangular shape focus the feminine to highlight above

the

,

on

Fringe fohm also .

$ tassels

applied

'

are

" 3)

up

from she

was N

a


#

Puff

-

sleeve

Party

dress

she

strong

increased

shoulder

by

301

,

its importance

indicating commercial for the

from

Coming

lassos

silhouettes

,

market

'

retro

dominate

tapping fashion into vintage glamour Use of crystal embellishments or editorials

.

high

for

-

a

shine

materials

youthful

take

.

" 31


# London fashion # heovictoriana

:

week

true

style

Bintulu romantic historic with high necklines

eccentric ,

references

long lengths

# colour

:

delicate

&

gelato

pastels

.

poolsideazure

saffron # Prints $

layering neomint

.

,

,

yellow

.

. .

Doodle

flames

furnishing

,

,

electric

Graphics skins digital ,

filter


# Materials $ Details : cutout lacebordevr ,

,

ruffles dobbymerh ,

draping

-

Laceboedus

finish

on

sleeves

are

the

perfect

hemlines &

.

are

Ruffles

,

back

to

play

romantic into the : Victorian # victoriousness item dress is key mood

.

-

a

High

necklines

sleeves

$

full

,

,

,

voluminous

ruffled

layered

details shirts

.


CLIENT PROFILE

DEMOGRAPHIC

Age

25

:

Income

:

35

-

High

:

BEHAVIORAL

Maytals Mostly

Married Adults

Education

family

Size

Gender

10+2

:

:

Geographic

:

,

Mostly

College ATM

michaels -4 )

female : worldwide ( predominant

location

where

Buy

By enrich -

India)

:

Top

of

the

,

celebrities

,

:

Designer

stores

clothes

new

pyramid Entrepreneurs self employed :

They

shop

times per

Delhi

social status

Occupation

Buybasedontoends Yes

years

:

income

:

:

,

several

week

or

clothes the

Malls month to

wardrobe


PSYCHO GRAPHIC

price

Brand

:

Pay for quality uniqueness sensitivity : labels wear Designer preferences :

,

Liberal / Conservative

Enviro

,

Liberal

:

friendly mostly :

-

Hobbies

Lifestyle

:

shopping

,

checking

:

spontaneity

Relationship

Very

spontaneous

:

Very

important

$

Achievers

:

Importance

VALS !

Enperiencers

feminine

out

new

trends

look


STATEMENT

POSITIONING FOR

aged

women

between 25 to 35 who

spontaneous determining self look with and a

-

who the that

unlike

feminine uniqueness in

glamorous

need

evening

wear

bespoke

cocktail dresses their

look

lunurious

other

dresses

of

to

rare

product usually round as

well

.

for

and

and

wear

which

doesn't

year

gowns

statement

own

make

because our

are

mostly occasions

sell

and

sell

small

which

all

occasions



ESSAY Designer retail is the market domain selected out of four options which were Designer, Retail, Export and Craft. Designer retail is further divided into various levels which are Haute Couture, Ready to wear, Diffusion, Bridge and Mass market. By studying designer retail, there was a clear view of the meaning and an understanding of how the market works. The market segment selected is ready to wear designer labels or brands which deal in western wear. Later, reading about different brands with similar aesthetics, there were some similarities and differences as well. The brands taken were Rocky Star, Prabal Gurung, Pankaj & Nidhi and Gauri & Nainika. While Rocky Star has a wider audience but is not well established and known to public. He has a strong vision which might turn into an opportunity. Prabal Gurung on the other hand is well established and has strong take on public issues as is an outspoken designer. But, the weakness is that he is not very spontaneous. Being on a bigger platform, he must make his voice known to everyone. Pankaj & Nidhi are doing great with Indian market but must explore more of the international market. They are pushing the envelope when it comes to creativity and innovation and are great with collaborations. Gauri & Nainika are purely making western wear but needs to be more international and do more and more collaborations. They are however, making great online presence. Studying the fashion forecast, there can be seen a lot of styles coming back like retroromance which includes puff sleeves, exaggerated shoulders, laces, fish nets, high necklines, delicate layering, fringe and patchwork. Colours most used were gelato pastels, soft grass, alaaqua. There were new prints and graphics coming in with different cuts and silhouettes. The client survey done was online and the results were supporting the research done on the client base for the brands. The client has to be a woman aged between 25 to 35 and is quite feminine. The geographic location is predominantly India and in India mostly Delhi but in dominantly the geographic location will be worldwide. Their social status is generally at top of the pyramid. They are mostly married and have higher spending capacity on relationships and themselves as well. They are generally entrepreneurs or self employed and buy clothes to enrich their wardrobe. They generally buy from individual designer stores and malls. Their buying is mostly based on ongoing trends and buy clothes several times per week. They are very spontaneous and will pay for quality, fitting, uniqueness, material and other little details. They are also mostly environment friendly. Under VALS, they come under Experiencers and Achievers. The basic understanding for market segment and client profile has been clearly shown. ~ Rashmi Sarraf Section C Level 2


BRAINSTORMING water

smooth

y

-

-

pond

Frozen

Miracle

l

l

undisputed

structure ' shades

of

blue

ยง purple

-

Snowy

I still

Roots

while

galang , like

Starry sky

'

-

Minute

!uยงplfgโ ณght


win

shape

flaker

still

grounded

smooth ifeng.IN/lEETiieEnTa

water

calm

-

undisputed

/

FROZEN

POND

-

roots

-

-

fined

vapour

mffhftnma.mn#fem-eonen flow

powdery

l

Y

structured

trees

Iwata edgy

uneven


INSPIRATION Frozen Pond

Frozen undone *

means

incapable

of

-

frozen

produced

pond

by

is

a

large

winter

being changed volume

freezing

.

of

,

ice

moved

or

or snow



|MAGElNTERPRETAT

-

Layers showing $ delicacy '

the

showing dark

or

-

side

negative which still

hope $

shows

desire

I

,

peeping

,

into the

paradise

darkness fear worry scattered dead

amidst

,

the darkness't

,

cold

-

showing

.

✓

the

alive silence

$

connectivity rootednest -

l

bouirdedthhldounded

law

$

,

l

mystery

-

unknown in the

like ,

,

depth

eyes


BRIDGE : RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN INSPIRATION AND CONCEPT how

a

everyone connected $

keeps

person

\ m÷÷maniE÷÷m qbgnded around them

Despite this

.

INSPIRATION

Nothing

faceisbllandn even

to

$

,

is

desire amidst the darkness

than CONCEPT

elegant $

more

live

cnn.net#i s K-:e:.::E:o: saumfz€¥F÷*EEijEEE÷i beautiful

a

always

worry fear ,

>

being hesitant into

.

uneven

.

person

has

feelings

a

going

they

feel

on

in

their lives, $ thus

broken with

become silent

it

accepting

.


SUNYATA

Key

concept form is

philosophy

emptiness

form

.

$ emptiness

is

.

EMPTINESS

soul

NOTHINGNESS

#

EMPTINESS

-

Buddhist

in

=

NON

inside

feels

-

EXISTENCE

every

empty

-

person Is

which

lonely

.

through Layers a

person


literally empty with

full

so

-

-

but still

no

futsemphy

money -

Black hole

-

still calm ,

but

lonely

* person

talk to

fount

rvithoaeafof light

Empty Body

with

Deserted

no-one

Abee in

an

empty dessert


-

Different

going

on

nothing no

on

emotions but

face

soul

faceless

person with

different

emotions

going

on

inside


Loneliness

emptiness

,

feeling of

ayy I hope

light

still

A person

deep

looks

inside

so

is

full so

but

empty

there


.im Misenmaignarwianas







0BSERVAT


Story

Blackhall No

Multi

-

personality

Ray of

Light

.

soul

Nothing

on

face

/ Multiple emotions

silent '

Layers

Body









BIBLIOGRAPHY Career explorer. 2019. What does a fashion designer do. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.careerexplorer.com/careers/fashiondesigner/. [Accessed 15 September 2019]. Wgsn. 2019. Trend report. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/fashion. [Accessed 23 September 2019]. The balance small business. 2019. Definition, types and examples of retail. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/ what-is-retail-2892238. [Accessed 1 September 2019]. Management study guide. 2019. Retail management. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.managementstudyguide.com/retailmanagement.htm. [Accessed 1 September 2019]. Britannica. 2019. Fashion retailing, marketing, and merchandising. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.britannica.com/art/fashionindustry/Fashion-retailing-marketing-and-merchandising. [Accessed 1 September 2019]. Fashion retailer. 2019. Fashion X retail. [ONLINE] Available at: https://fashionretail.blog. [Accessed 1 September 2019]. Fibre to fashion. 2019. Indian Retail Industry - Its Growth, Challenges And Opportunities. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2203/indian-retail-industry-its-growth-challenges-and-opportunities. [Accessed 4 September 2019]. Instagram screenshots Images from Pinterest 440 industries. 2019. Market Segmentation in the Fashion Industry. [ONLINE] Available at: https://440industries.com/marketsegmentation-in-the-fashion-industry/. [Accessed 4 September 2019]. Fashionthoughtsweb. 2019. Fashion market segmentation. [ONLINE] Available at: https://fashionthoughtsweb.wordpress.com/ 2016/11/23/fashion-market-segmentation/. [Accessed 4 September 2019]. Rocky star. 2019. About us. [ONLINE] Available at: https://rockystarworld.com/brand-profile/. [Accessed 10 September 2019]. Prabal gurung. 2019. About brand. [ONLINE] Available at: https://prabalgurung.com/pages/about. [Accessed 10 September 2019]. Nbc news. 2019. Designer Prabal Gurung Is On a Quest to Build a 'Luxury Brand with a Soul'. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/designer-prabal-gurung-quest-build-luxury-brand-soul-n740256. [Accessed 10 September 2019]. Google images Report reference Fashionista. 2019. PRABAL GURUNG CREATED HIS OWN AMERICAN DREAM. [ONLINE] Available at: https://fashionista.com/ 2019/09/fashionista-five-prabal-gurung-profile. [Accessed 10 September 2019]. Pankaj and nidhi. 2019. About us. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.pankajnidhi.com/about-us.html. [Accessed 10 September 2019]. India today. 2019. Let there be style: Designer-couple Pankaj and Nidhi collaborate with online fashion portal KOOVS. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.indiatoday.in/lifestyle/fashion/story/designer-pankaj-and-nidhi-koovs-collaborate-online-fashionportal-265575-2015-09-30. [Accessed 11 September 2019]. Gauri and nainika. 2019. The profile. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.gauriandnainika.com/about-us. [Accessed 11 September 2019]. Fashionfad. 2019. Gauri and nainika. [ONLINE] Available at: https://fashionfad.in/designer-biography/gauri-nainika/. [Accessed 11 September 2019]. Google forms


DEVELOPMENT OF

SILHOUETTES










DEVELOPMENT OF

SWATCHES




VARIATIONS







FINAL

RANGE




FINAL GARMENT




TOILE


-

Making

alterations in the

toile

related to the

fitting

.


CREATING TEXTURES

$

PATTERNS

FOR

THE FINAL

GARMENT


Note : The shoot of the final garment is yet to be done.


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