E-Journal by Rashmi Sarraf

CULTURAL STUDIES E-JOURNAL

RASHMI SARRAF 1

REFERENCING: 1. Jimmy Nelson. 2020. Huli. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.jimmynelson.com/people/huli. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

2. Jimmy Nelson. 2020. Huli II. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.jimmynelson.com/people/huli-ii. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

3. The huli tribe. 2020. Tribes. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.tribes.world/huli. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

4. Wandertours. 2020. Who are the Huli Wigmen?. [ONLINE] Available at: https://wandertours.com/whoare-the-huli-wigmen/. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

5. Journeys International. 2020. Huli tribe adventure tours. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.journeysinternational.com/destination/pacific/papua-new-guinea/huli/. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

6. Esri. 2020. Huli Tribe. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.arcgis.com/apps/MapSeries/index.html? appid=58647d260bc64500b2a34eda429e0553. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

7. wild junket. 2020. Tribal Culture in Papua New Guinea: the Huli Wigmen of Tari Highlands. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wildjunket.com/tribal-culture-in-papua-new-guinea-huli-wigmen-tari/. [Accessed 29 April 2020].

All the images and information have been referenced. Images are taken directly from the above mentioned websites. 11

HOW FASHION IS USED AS A TOOL TO EXPRESS IDENTITY AND BELIEF? 12

FASHION RESISTANCE

ashion according to me is a mode through which people convey their feelings, identities or belief. It is very personal and different for each human being. Being fashionable or wearing something that portrays their sense in fashion shows the kind of identity they want to have or expand. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen many girls who dress up like boys with their boy-cut hair, shirt and pants. Through this, they want to resist the notion that girls are associated with. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not important for them to wear short dresses, skirts or deep neck tops to be a girl. Similarly, Boys are also resisting by wearing skirts or ghaghra to show no specific garment is made for any particular gender and is a more general phenomenon. Ranveer Singh, being a celebrity has always been questioned for the kind of clothes he wears. But actually, it is his choice to wear whatever he wants and show his personality through the same. This is resistance for him. There are many other examples of people who express their identity through fashion. 13

5 IMAGES TO SHOW RESISTANCE

1. KASHMIRI PHERAN The World Sumaya Teli stands in Boston, Massachusetts,Â holding an image of a woman in a red pheran, a traditional piece of Kashmiri clothing that has become a symbol of resistance. It is not the first time that the Pheran is being used as tool for resistance. There were moments when women were restrained from wearing the Pheran but soon that turned out in a protest against the same. In the above red Pheran, instead of a traditional embroidery, the woman has a map of Kashmir embroidered on the neckline.

According to me, Pheran is an important element of fashion for the Kashmiri people. It holds a sentimental value for them and showing resistance through the same is self-expression and self identity. Through the flag of Kashmir being embroidered on the neckline, it shows how triggering a movement can be even in the way people dress.

#redforkashmir 16

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A pheran is the most traditional form of Kashmiri clothing. It's worn by both men, women and children alike. It's a warm, enveloping tunic-type clothing, but with pockets. The pockets are the best part. I have memories of my grandmother and she would always have something great that would come out of a pocket at just the right time. You know, like a piece of candy, a little coin for me or my favourite was the dried coconut. I have loved always wearing it. I'm not just wearing it today because we're doing this talk on Kashmir. I wear it all the time.â&#x20AC;?

Sumaya Teli

2. BACKLESS DRESSES NYFW AW17 Designer Raul Solis, through his LRS Collection decided to speak against Donald Trump and his actions. His collection consisted of models who were wearing backless dresses displaying underwear with quotes “Fuck Your Wall” and “No Ban No Wall.” Here, he’s talking about the wall that Donald Trump is getting constructed between Mexico and USA on the border for limited overseas trade. Raul believes that if he can’t use a platform he’s being provided with to speak his mind, it’s of no use.

According to me, fashion is an important tool through which one can show their grief and anger. Raul has done the same through his collection, being able to make a statement. He is known for his outright comments and views on fashion. Through his collection, he has a shown a movement of resistance against the president of the United States.

#NOBANNOWALL

“My family is first generation Mexican. I would not be able to present my collections if it was not for the opportunities (America) has given us”

Raul Solis

3. BLOOMER PANTS Mid-1800s America Amelia Jenks Bloomer was a feminist and the editor of the first women’s newspaper, The Lily. She used her paper to oppose people who condemned women to have a particular kind of dressing. She met a woman wearing ‘turkish trousers’ or ‘pantaloons’, the outfit which combined knee-length skirts with loose pants. Soon, Bloomer announced her decision to wear the same in the media. Women all around the world applauded her and asked her for the style references. These pants got associated with Amelia. Even today, an association between pants and women’s rights is advocated and has not faded.

According to me, women even in 1800 could not live without reforms in the kind of dressing they used to have. Due to the tight clothing(Corsets), they suffered illness of great kinds. It was necessary for activists to raise their voice against the same and incorporate a more loose form of clothing. Amelia did the same by introducing Bloomer pants and showed resistance at that time.

#BLOOMERS

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I stood amazed at the furor I had unwittingly caused, Some praised and some blamed, some commented, and some ridiculed and condemned.â&#x20AC;? AMELIA JENKS BLOOMER

4. SLOGAN T-SHIRT Central Saint Martins, 1979 Katherine Hamnett launched her brand in 1979, introducing slogan tees with utilitarian chic. She met the UK’s then prime-minister Margaret Thatcher wearing her infamous 58% Don’t Want Pershing Tshirt. She used slogans like Education Not Missiles, Worldwide Nuclear Ban Now, Peace, Save The World, Save The Sea, Clean Up Or Die, Save The Future and Vote Tactically. Initially, she also made only beautiful clothes and made money out of them but later when she ran a test on the impact her industry is creating on people and planet, she was shocked, she tried lobbying for change through her collections. Later, she turned out to be an activist and supports sustainable fashion. She has also got support from Kanye West to promote sustainability.

According to me, sustainability is the most important aspect in the fashion industry currently. Brands should start becoming more considerate in their value chain and look more towards ecological fashion and not only mass production. This is also resistance as people are denying to wear something which is not 99% Sustainable(as 100% sustainable does not exist yet).

#SAVETHEWORLD

“You can’t not read what’s written on a T-shirt… once you’ve read it, it’s in your brain.” Katherine Hamnett

5. GENDERLESS FASHION Men of Today Harry Styles, an artist has never backed out in wearing whatever he wants bucking the conventional clothing and opting for blouses, floral suits. From the famous pink suit he wore on Today, a printed Gucci blouse, a revealing black jumpsuit he wore, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smashing the gender norms just by getting dressed. He even wears accessories with his garments which also opposes the gender norms. Wearing pink collar signifies how colours are not gender specific. According to me, clothes are not specific to any gender and genderless fashion pretty much sums it up. Wearing skinny jeans or skirts does not make a man less of a man but more. Men have also started to focus more on their beauty by painting their nails, getting their hair removed which makes them resist the norms of gender that had been created in the past.

#REALMENWEARPINK

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Footballers back in the seventies, they used to wear those little shorts, No one was questioning their manliness; other guys wanted to look like them, in fact. They had the confidence to show their bodies, and to be playful.â&#x20AC;? Martine Rose, Mens Fashion-wear Designer

REFERENCING 1.

Bellatory. 2020. Feminine Trends in Men's Fashion. [ONLINE] Available at: https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/DudeLooks-Like-A-Lady-Men-and-Girly-Fads. [Accessed 5 May 2020].

Teen Vogue. 2020. 10 of Harry Styles's Best Genderless Style Moments. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.teenvogue.com/gallery/harry-styles-genderless-style-moments. [Accessed 5 May 2020].

3. The Guardian. 2020. 'It's a great look': jewellery follows clothing into genderless fashion. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/mar/13/its-a-great-look-jewellery-follows-clothing-into-genderless-fashion. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 4. Models. 2020. Garage magazine. [ONLINE] Available at: https://models.com/work/maison-margiela-john-gallianomuses-on-a-genderless-fashion-future/1079444. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 5. BBC. 2020. Designed. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/culture/story/20200113-katharine-hamnett-theoriginal-fashion-eco-warrior. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 6. smithsonian. 2020. Amelia Bloomer Didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Mean to Start a Fashion Revolution, But Her Name Became Synonymous With Trousers. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/amelia-bloomer-didnt-mean-startfashion-revolution-her-name-became-synonymous-trousers-180969164/. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 7.

Pri. 2020. Finding resistance in fashion, Kashmiri creator turns to the pheran. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.pri.org/stories/2019-09-10/finding-resistance-fashion-kashmiri-creator-turns-pheran. [Accessed 5 May 2020].

8. dazed. 2020. Mexico-born designer Raul Solis shows anti-Trump undies. [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/34674/1/mexican-heritage-designer-raul-solis-anti-trump-undies-lrs-studios-newyork. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 9. huffpost. 2020. Fashion As Resistance: The Everyday Rebellion. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.huffpost.com/entry/ fashion-as-resistance-the-everyday-rebellion_b_58a5c061e4b0fa149f9ac258. [Accessed 5 May 2020]. 30

SUBCULTURE SHARPIES, MODS, GOND

REFERENCING 1. ABC News. 2015. Sharpie die hards keep Australia's only home-grown youth subculture alive. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-08-31/sharpie-die-hards-use-music-to-keep-subculture-alive/ 6738658. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

2. Dangerous Minds. 2013. SHARPIES: THE MULLETED ROCKER KIDS OF 70S AUSTRALIA. [ONLINE] Available at: https://dangerousminds.net/comments/sharpies_the_mulleted_rocker_kids_of_70s_australia. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

3. Vice. 2015. Photos of Australia's Most Fashionable Gang. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.vice.com/en_us/ article/jmab5x/growing-up-with-the-sharpies. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

4. Furious. 2007. Sharpies. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.furious.com/perfect/sharpies.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

5. Punkjourney. 2016. Sharpies. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.punkjourney.com/sharpies.php. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

6. Pinterest. 2018. 1970s Melbourne Sharpies. [ONLINE] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/catrionaanderso/ 1970s-melbourne-sharpies/. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

7. Discover. 2018. Mod culture. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.johnsmedley.com/discover/community/modculture/. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

8. Study.com. 2018. What is the Mod Subculture?. [ONLINE] Available at: https://study.com/academy/lesson/ what-is-the-mod-subculture.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

9. Pinterest. 2017. Mods Subculture. [ONLINE] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/syfqhmdn/mods-subculture/. [Accessed 21 May 2020].

10. Fandom. 2016. Mod (Subculture). [ONLINE] Available at: https://culture.fandom.com/wiki/Mod_(subculture). [Accessed 21 May 2020]. 47

11. The Blonde Salad. 2017. THE MOD MOVEMENT, A SUPER COOL BRITISH SUBCULTURE. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.theblondesalad.com/en-US/fashion/the-mod-movement-a-supercool-british-subculture. [Accessed 21 May 2020].

12. Slideshare. 2014. The mod subculture. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.slideshare.net/09041996/ the-mods-subculture. [Accessed 21 May 2020].

13. Down to earth. 2015. The Gond kingdoms. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.downtoearth.org.in/ news/the-gond-kingdoms-46701. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

14. Every culture. 2017. Gonds. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.everyculture.com/wc/Germany-toJamaica/Gonds.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

15. Joshua project. 2017. Gond in India. [ONLINE] Available at: https://joshuaproject.net/people_groups/ 16855/IN. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

16. Indian mirror. 2018. Gond tribes. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.indianmirror.com/tribes/ gondtribes.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

17. Utsavpedia. 2016. Gond Painting. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifsembroideries/gond-painting/. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

18. Engrave. 2017. The Art of Gond #HandmadeInIndia. [ONLINE] Available at: https://engrave.in/blog/ gond-art/. [Accessed 22 May 2020].

19. Tribes of India. 2018. Gonds tribe of India. [ONLINE] Available at: http://tribes-of-india.blogspot.com/ 2008/09/gonds-tribe-of-india.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 48

INFLUENCE OF SUBCULTURE ON TWO PROMINENT DESIGNERS

HIPPIE SUBCULTURE

Hippie Subculture emerged in 1960s of a countercultural movement that rejected the mores of mainstream American life. The movement originated on college campuses in the United States, although it spread to other countries as well including Canada and Britain. The movement arose in part as opposition to U.S. involvement in the Vietnam War(1955-1975), hippies were not directly engaged in politics, as opposed to their activist counterparts known as “Yippies”. They favoured long hair and casual, unconventional dress in a psychedelic colour palette. Males grew beards and both men and women wore sandals and beads. Long flow dresses were common in females. They generally had a vegetarian diet based on unprocessed food and practiced holistic medicine.

ABOUT

Hippies advocated nonviolence and love, a popular phrase being “Make love, not war” for which they were sometimes called “Flower Children”. They even promoted openness and tolerance as alternatives to the restrictions the middle class society faced. Both folk and rock music were an integral part of the Hippie culture. Singers such as Bob Dylan and Joan Baez were closely associated with the movement.

YVES SAINT LAURENT -

Yves Saint Laurent is one of the most prominent fashion houses of the 20th century. Originally, a House of Haute Couture, Yves Saint Laurent revolutionised modern fashion in 1966 with the introduction of luxury ready-to-wear under the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. What set Saint Laurent aside from his peers was his fearless approach to blurring the lines between men’s and women’s fashion and his celebration of female sexuality. Pioneering the power suit and transforming the safari jacket from functional to fashion-focussed, he took traditionally masculine items and made them work for a new kind of womenswear – one designed to empower its wearer. It was a time of change in the fashion industry. Yves Saint Laurent’s creativity was the heart of the brand, pushing boundaries forward, and he was never afraid of shocking or provoking in the name of empowerment and freedom of thoughts. The Maison was the first one to be at the same time revolutionary and luxury, and this spirit is at the basis of its DNA. 52

READY TO WEAR SPRING SUMMER 2015 Yves Saint Laurent got inspired with the Hippie style in the RTW SS 2015 Collection. The fun and colourful prints on her dress brought her entire outfit to life. Hedi Slimane had designed this collection and the mood was cute, young and brought retro feel to the collection. The collection introduced flirty dresses and short skirts which would be a girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good to go. The item of the season was a short jacket which was based on two classics - the Jeans and the Motorcycle Jacket. The full-skirted dresses came in a variety of prints with cherries, stars and flowers. The prints were highly inspired by the Hippie culture. The colour palette was wholly based on the psychedelic colours which was used by the Hippies.

ROBERTO CAVALLI -

Roberto Cavalli is an Italian Designer who has proved to be a titan in the fiercely competitive world of fashion. The man was born in Florence and grew up in a creative environment. He introduced bright, feminine designs and made himself a household name. After the establishment of his namesake brand in 1970, he stole the spotlight with his first runway show in Palazzo Pitti where he unveiled an Avant-Garde Collection expressing his joyful, opulent aesthetic. Extending his innovative printing techniques to the world of leather, Roberto Cavalli broke new grounds in the world of fashion and attired his attention on Major international Labels including Hermes and Pierre Cardin. Cavalli also launched his first high-street collection for H&M. The brand celebrated 40 years of business in 2010. The company was named the number one womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion label on the luxury Brand Status Index. 58

READY TO WEAR SPRING SUMMER 2017 Roberto Cavalliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring Summer RTW, 2017 collection introduced long drifty dresses, floral printed pants, neck scarves and fringe in hem lines which gave hints of hippie culture in the collection. Peter Dundas has always been the most committed advocate of the Hippie look. Dundas took retro fabrics for the collection and made a girl look slim in the multi-layered flares he created. The striped jackets and skinny flares are always in sync with fashion. The drifty dresses, fringed blankets and shawls were all part of the Collection. Cavali generally also uses a lot of prints in his garments but are generally animal prints. Here, prints inspired from Hippies were also used. The colour palette involved a lot of colours but mainly used indigo, red, yellow and white in the collection. 59

REFERENCING 1.

Vogue. 2016. Roberto Cavalli. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/robertocavalli. [Accessed 23 May 2020]. 2. Hello Magazine. 2018. Roberto Cavalli - Biography. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.hellomagazine.com/profiles/robertocavalli/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 3. Roberto cavalli. 2019. Roberto Cavalli. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.robertocavalli.com/en-us/world-of-rc/cavalli-heritage/ history. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 4. Vogue. 2008. Roberto Cavalli. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/roberto-cavalli-biography. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 5. Brittanica. 2020. Hippie. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.britannica.com/topic/hippie. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 6. Study.com. 2020. History of the Hippie Subculture. [ONLINE] Available at: https://study.com/academy/lesson/history-of-thehippie-subculture.html. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 7. Research gate. 2020. Designers. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Roberto-Cavalli-SpringSummer-2017-RTW-Flares-long-drifty-dresses-floral-printed-pants_fig3_318089805. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 8. The culture trip. 2018. The History of the House of Yves Saint Laurent. [ONLINE] Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/ europe/france/paris/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-yves-saint-laurent/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 9. Kering. 2018. History. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.kering.com/en/houses/couture-and-leather-goods/saint-laurent/ history/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 10. wwd. 2017. Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015. [ONLINE] Available at: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/paris/ yves-saint-laurent/review/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 11. wwd. 2018. Roberto Cavalli RTW Spring 2017. [ONLINE] Available at: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/ roberto-cavalli-rtw-spring-10558194/roberto-cavalli-rtw-spring-2017-44/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 12. wwd. 2020. Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015. [ONLINE] Available at: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/ saint-laurent-rtw-spring-2015/saint-laurent-rtw-spring-2015-7958402-portrait/. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 13. Vogue. 2020. Saint Laurent. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/saintlaurent/slideshow/collection#63. [Accessed 22 May 2020]. 65

KIKUYU TRIBE

Kikuyu tribe is a Bantu tribe and has migrated from Lake Chad, South Africa around 1200-1600 AD. It occupies 22% of Kenya’s population. The tribe is concentrated around Mount Kenya which is a highland area in the South Central part of Kenya. The founder of this tribe is a man called ‘Gikuyu’ with his wife Mumbi who were created by God. The tribe has notable personalities like the first and third president of Kenya were Kikuyus. Kikuyu women are said to be beautiful, hardworking, confident and self-reliant. The kikuyu music is known as Mugithi which is accompanied by guitars and dances and are generally played at ceremonies and clubs. Their creator or God is Ngai and are superstitious people. The majority of people are Christians. They are also known for their industrious nature and the main economic activity is agriculture. They have a family oriented government and has a council of elders. Women of this tribe wear full body covered clothes with a Shuka tied on the left shoulder which extends till ankle. Men gernerally wear skins around their waist and are bare chested. The face painting they do is detailed but raw at the same time.

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the symbolic dances they do for welcoming, warrior dance, dance of love. LIVE IN KARGE ROUND HUT-LIKE HOUSES REFERRED TO AS “NYUMBA” WHICH HAS IONLY ONE ENTRANCE.

KIKUYU CHILDREN WEAR SKINS AROUND THEIR WAIST AND NORMALLY NO CLOTH ON UPPER BODY. KIKUYU TRADITIONAL SKIRT, MUTHURU IS A SIMPLE LEATHER WRAP AROUND ACCOMPANIED BY A SOFT LEATHER PUBIC APRON. KIKUYU HUSBAND AND WIFE KIKUYU HEADGEARS

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It was a very enriching module wherein I got to know about so many new things. All the assignments were very well planned for us to have the best out of it. The first week made me research about a new tribe which was not from India and enhanced my knowledge. The second week about resistance through fashion made me learn about various figures whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re trying to do their part in bringing a change in fashion. Reading about the subcultures made me wonder how important it is for these to exist. The designers very well take these as inspiration in their collections. The design collection I made was a great learning experience for me. Going through the inspiration, deriving the concept out of it and then making a range was in fact fun. Overall, I made the best out of the module.

ANNEXURE