Sommelier - Winter 2023 by Dansk Sommelier Forening

No. 4

2023

Trophy again on Danish Hands: Jonathan Gouveia came, saw, and conquered during this years Nordic Championship in Helsinki, Finland! We salute you! Learn more about the competition, meet the inventor behind Coravin and travel to Nova Scotia and more in this issue.

I M P R I N T:

B OA R D O F DA N I S H S O M M E L I E R A S S O C I AT I O N:

Sommelier #4 2023 26.Year Deadline for next issue (#1 2024): 05 January Editor in chief: Nina Højgaard Jensen / Nhj@sommelier.dk Layout og art director: Morten Nybæk Print: Nybæk Grafisk, 26 25 82 50 Issuer: Dansk Sommelier Forening

PRESIDENT: Christian Aarø ca@sommelier.dk VICE PRESIDENT: Tim Vollerslev tv@sommelier.dk TREASURER: Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk SPONSER MANAGER: Bonnie Reinwald bonnie@buttandbons.com

R E S P O N S I B L E F O R TA S T I N G S: - Copenhagen - Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

P RACT I CA L I N F O

- Fyn - Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk

SOMMELIER is published four times annually and sent to members and friends of the Danish Sommelier Association. The magazine is run by volunteer work. All profit goes to education, competitions and professional events. As a private person you can support the association with 700 dkk/year by becoming “Friend of Danish Sommelier Association”. Apart from working to improve the Danish sommeliers, you will then receive a diploma.

- Jylland - Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

CO M P E T I T I O N S & E N T RA N C E E XA M I N AT I O N S: Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen & Jess Kildetoft ctj@sommelier.dk & jk@sommelier.dk

T RAV E L S:

For membership contact: Heine René Egelund he@sommelier.dk - all enquiries in realtion to change of address, contingent and invoices are kindly asked addresses to Heine Egelund as well.

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen & Kim Thygesen ctj@sommelier.dk & kt@sommelier.dk

Ads and anything in that relation: Bonnie Reinwald Mail: bonnie@ buttandbons.com

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

We ask kindly that invitations to tastings, travels etc. are directed to Editor in chief Nina Højgaard Jensen på mail Nhj@sommelier.dk

Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

N E W L E T T E R S & CO M M U N I CAT I O N: F AC E B O O K & W E B M A S T E R:

W R I T E F O R T H E M AG AZ I N E

S E C R E TA RY:

You are welcome to contribute to our magazine. For contributions or questions in that regard, contact Nina Højgaard Jensen by email nhj@ sommelier.dk. Please note that photos should be a minimum of 2MB.

Christian Høj-Jørgensen chj@sommelier.dk

Front page: Nordic Championship for Sommeliers

no. 4 - 2023

Nordic Championship ��8 Nova Scotia - ”A drop” in the Canadian wine bucket ��18 Interview with Greg Lambrecht of Coravin ��28 Your Weekend Wine Will Be Cheaper – and You Can Thank China, the Harvest, and the World's Economic Rollercoaster ��38 The wine year in review ��44 The Danish team’s proposal woos the jury at Copa Jerez Forum & Competition 2023 ��58

DOMAINE DE BELLENE

Bourgogne’s bæredygtige elegantier - velegnet til at køre på glas. CHARLOTTENLUND STATIONSPLADS 7 • 2920 CHARLOTTENLUND • 62 66 11 20 • HORECA@THEIS-VINE.DK • WWW.THEIS-VINE.DK

“The extraordinary wines of Raul Perez must be tasted to be believed … These are brilliant, artisanal, hand-crafted wines that words simply cannot begin to describe” - The Wine Advocate 5

HE DAUSCH GERMANY’S BIGGEST CULT RED

HE Weine has quickly cemented its reputation as the country’s best producer of red wines. Hans Erich (HE) Dausch filled his first three barriques with Spätburgunder in 2006. In the following years he made equally small amounts at the wineries of friends (all of them top producers in their own right). His wines found their way into the German wine guide Gault Millau in 2015 where they achieved the best scores ever for a debuting winery. In the highly respected wine guide Vinum, HE Dausch has attained the title of “Best German Red Wine” no fewer than 3 of the past 5 years! There is no higher praise for a red wine in Germany. 3,800 BOTTLES A YEAR The wines of HE Dausch are what you would call garage wines. The quantities are, still, absolutely tiny: hovering around 3.800 bottles a year from just 1.2 hectares of vineyards. In comparison, the vineyard of Romanée-Conti is 1.88 hectares. The vineyards include two named parcels: Eschbacher Hasen and Herrschaft, both planted with old, german clones of Pinot Noir (Spätburgun-

der), that none the less appear somewhat more Burgundian in the glass than other wines from this area. From these parcels four wines are produced: Herrschaft, Eschbacher Hasen, HE Trocken and L’Artiste. Herrschaft, the wine that is considered the “introductory wine” (pricewise at least), performs at a level most other producers’ best wines never reach. IN THE RAIN SHADOW OF THE PFÄLZERWALD The winery and vineyards are located in the wine district of Pfalz, the vineyards all on east- and south-east-facing slopes, where the Pfälzerwald begins. This forest is the northern extension of the Vosges, and in this part of Pfälz provides the same rain shadow effect as those mountains do in Alsace. This makes the area one of the hottest and driest in all of Germany. The soil is mostly limestone, similar to parts of Burgundy. All prerequisites are there for making great wines, and for HE the road to greatness is through low, low yields and minimal intervention in both vineyard and winery. Every step of the way, the wines are made with uncompromising precision. The final piece of the puzzle is the best barrels France has to offer:

Juul’s Engros er sponsor af Dansk Sommelier Forening. 6

100% new barriques from François Frères, who also delivers to the top estates of Burgundy. The wines spend 18 months in these barriques – an intense aging regimen that might appear risky, but with a result that speaks for itself. The wines from HE Dausch have been crowned not just the best of Germany, but also the most Burgundian – somewhat of a wine cliché, perhaps, but most definitely one that holds true in this case. They are goosebump-inducing wines that can bring a tear to the eyes of any Pinot Noir lover.

Repræsentant fra Juuls Engros: Anders Regout // +45 25 94 06 14 // Andersr@juulsengros.dk

JUUL S E NGROS

K Ø BE N H A V N ETAB. 1926

Skal 2013 Comtes de champagne være på dit vinkort? Øst: Kontakt Jesper Søgaard på tlf. 29700015 eller jes@jmk.dk Vest (syd for rute 15): Kontakt Christian Kollerup Rahbek på tlf. 29700017 eller ckr@jmk.dk 7 Vest (nord for rute 15): Kontakt søren borrisholt på tlf. 29700012 eller sb@jmk.dk

www.taittinger.com

98 Points – Antonio Galloni, May 2023 2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Côte des Blancs The 2013 Comtes de Champagne captures all the pedigree of this great vintage in its energy, depth and vibrancy. Lemon confit, dried flowers, chamomile, spice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. Passion fruit, ginger, marzipan and mint appear later, filling out the layers beautifully. Harvest took place in October in what has become the exception rather than the norm in Champagne. Drinking window: 2023-2043.

BRINGING IT BA

Nordic Champ

A C K TO D E N M A R K:

pionship 2023 B Y: C H R I S T I A N J A C O B S E N P H OTO S: T E E M U R E U N I L A

This year’s Nordic Championship for Sommeliers was hosted by the Finish Sommelier Association and took place in Helsinki at the fabulous GLO Art Hotel. As always, the competition was compromised by two contestants from each of the Nordic countries who had qualified through the national competitions totaling 10 top sommeliers. The competition took place Sunday the 8th of October but as is custom there was a get together the evening before sponsored by Austrian Wine at the Muru Restaurant. The competitors reluctantly did not finish their glasses before taking an early walk home to the hotel setting the stage for a tough competition. Early Sunday morning ten sommeliers in full attire met in the hotel lobby and were

quickly escorted to the first part of the contest; the semi-final. Blind tasting of two (only to be know much later) intensely sweet wines. Both botrytised, one very classic being a trockenbeerenauslese from Burgenland and the other being a more obscure very, very late harvest petit manseng from Alto Adige. No easy feat! After a quick intermission the tasks carried on with an hour’s theory paper, which proved to be rather difficult for the contestants, followed by a quick 3-minute practical task. The practical test was a simple drill with two guests ordering two different glasses of wine, a white and a red. The white was closed under screwcap and the red with a cork stopper. Finishing in time was the main challenge here but overall people fared well. 10

THE FINAL After the semi-final 10 contestants had to be cut down to three and so the work in the judges’ room commenced. Meanwhile La Rioja Alta hosted a thorough masterclass for the competitors and the delegations of the countries. At 3pm the finalists were announced and Emma Ziemann (Sweden), Nikolai Haram Svorte (Norway) and our very own Jonathan Gouveia made it through. Jonathan was the first one to go on stage followed by Emma with Nikolaj as the last one on. In the final the three competitors had to go through a handful of tasks individually. The stage was set with a pair of tables. One table with two guests and the other with three guests with a blind host. As custom is in the Nordics, 25% of the points total from the se-

mi-final were to be added to the points in the final. First task on stage was to serve the table of two one dry martini cocktail and one glass of pet-nat. Fairly simple task although the dry martini was supposed to be “very dry & with an olive” an information only given if the sommelier would ask for the preference of the guest. The second task was to serve the table of three a German white wine, specifically Wittmann’s Morstein Riesling GG from 2018. However, the wine in the fridge was the downgraded version: Westhofener Riesling. The sommelier was judged on the ability to correctly identify the error as well as noticing that the host was blind to act accordingly. Now followed a classic decanting of a Châteauneuf-duPape from Clos de la Oratorie to the table of two. Here the sommelier was offered a chance to demonstrate theoretical knowledge with curious guests asking about the history of the region as well as the grape composition. Finally, the sommelier was asked to pair three savory dishes with the Wittmann Riesling served at the table of three with one curveball: One guest would prove to be vegan. Extra points were given if the sommelier asked for food allergies and preferences prior to making the food pairing.

and discuss their placement in the market. The wines were an aussie chardonnay, a mateus rosé, a prosecco and a JP. Chenet. All four wines were of lower price and quality range and the contestant were judged upon their ability to identify exactly that. Not necessarily an easy feat, if you are used to working with some of the best wines in the world and rarely buys wine in the supermarket! The tasting challenge continued with the entering of four new beverages, namely a rye whiskey, a cognac, an absinthe & a white grappa. The contestants were asked dentification and description of the methods of production.

T H E V E R D I CT All three finalists fared well and had their individual ups and downs but undoubtedly, they all deserved to be in it. Jonathan who was first up had his usual calmness and worked efficiently and with grace during the practical tests. Emma was putting on her usual warm charm with the judges and trying to make them feel comfortable and smiling.

Lastly two tasting assignments were given. Four wines came on stage and the sommelier was asked to identify them 11

Nikolaj was collected and focused always threading in known waters. At no point during the final, time limitations became an issue, and the tasks were designed to give the competitors room to shine and show their skills. Even though Emma, Nikolaj & Jonathan all had their individual styles, points were very, very close at the end. But, with a strong theory and a very impressive practical final, Jonathan Gouveia came out on top at the end. Very well deserved, leaving room for a great deal of optimism on his and DSF’s behalf. A big thank you goes out to Heidi Mäkinen and the Finish Sommelier Association for a couple of fun and very well-organized days. And a big, big, big congratulations to Jonathan. Jonathan becomes the sixth Danish sommelier to win the Nordic Sommelier Championship in the last fifteen competitions giving Denmark a win-percentage of 40%! Who will be the next one?

WINNERS

2012 – Liora Levi, Norway 2011 - Christian Jacobsen, Denmark 2010 – Totte Steneby – Sweden 2009 – Arvid Rosengren, Sweden 2008 – Merete Bø, Norway 2007 – Thilde Maarbjerg, Denmark 2006 – Jacob Kocemba, Denmark 2005 – Dennis Rasmussen, Denmark 2004 – Robert Lie, Norway 2003 – Juha Lihtonen, Finland 2002 – Andreas Larsson, Sweden 2001 – Christian Mortensen, Denmark 2000 – Jesper Boelskifte, Denmark

2023 – Jonathan Gouveia, Denmark 2022 – Sander Johnsson, Norway 2021 – Ellen Franzén, Sweden 2020 – Pandemic 2019 – Rasmus Marquard, Denmark 2018 – Francesco Marzola, Norway 2017 – Fredrik Linfors, Sweden 2016 – Nina Jensen, Denmark 2015 – Jess Kildetoft, Denmark 2014 – Beatrice Becher, Sweden 2013 – Simon Zimmermann, Norway

NYHED NYHED

MONDAVI FAMILIEN I PIEMONTE

Nu har Robert Mondavis barnebarn, Carlo Mondavi, og hans partner, Giovanna Bagnasco, overtaget vinhuset Sorí della Sorba i Piemonte, hvor de producerer vin ud fra principper indenfor perMONDAVI FAMILIEN I PIEMONTE makultur, biodynamik, og økologi. Nu har Robert Mondavis barnebarn, Carlo Mondavi, og hans partner, Giovanna Bagnasco, overtaget vinhuset della Sorba i Piemonte, hvor de De laver kun 2Sorí vine på nuværende tidspunkt: producerer vin ud fra principper indenfor per• Langhe Nebbiolo på 100% Nebbiolo makultur, biodynamik, og økologi. • Langhe Rosso på 60% Dolcetto, 40% Nebbiolo De laver kun 2 vine på nuværende tidspunkt: • Langhe Nebbiolo på 100% Nebbiolo • Langhe Rosso på 60% Dolcetto, 40% Nebbiolo

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gav vinhusets første årgang 2019, Sorí della Sorba Nebbiolo Langhe 93+ point og en masse ros med på vejen: ”This biodynamic expression of Nebbiolo captures most honest and transparent side of Robertthe Parker’s Wine Advocate gav vinhusets this noble Piedmont grape. Production is 3,441 første årgang 2019, Sorí della Sorba Nebbiolo bottles, 40 magnums and three jeroboams. That Langhe 93+ point og en masse ros med på vejen: said, with this inaugural release, you'd be lucky to ”This biodynamic expression of Nebbiolo capfind one at all.” tures the most honest and transparent side of Årgang 2020 er nu på lager this noble Piedmont grape.i Skovlunde, Productionogissælg3,441 es så længe lager haves. bottles, 40 magnums and three jeroboams. That said, with this inaugural release, you'd be lucky to find oneflasker at all.”på lager · Findes også i magnum 1,5L Ca. 200 Årgang 2020 er nu på lager i Skovlunde, og sælges så længe lager haves. Ca. 200 flasker på lager · Findes også i magnum 1,5L

Kontakt salgsdirektør Thomas Dam for mere information: E: thomas.dam@laudrupvin.dk Tlf: 2240 4521 Mileparken 13 | 2740 Skovlunde 16 | tlf. 4484 8086 | www.laudrup.dk

WINE, ONLY APPRECIATED IN MODERATION

Funded by the European Union

AFTER EXTREME HEAT AND COLD,

COME UNBEATABLE MOMENTS

THIS IS RIBERA DEL DUERO. WHOEVER HAS TRIED IT, KNOWS IT. 17

Made to Move You

Nova Scotia - ”A drop” in the Canadian wine bucket I have just been to Nova Scotia, invited by the wines of Nova Scotia. I tasted the wines, looked at the terroir and talked to the people. Here is some of the information that I picked up.

D E F I N E D B Y T H E WAT E R Nova Scotia is a peninsula on the western side of Canada defined more than anything by the water: The size of the Island is larger than the whole of Denmark, 55.284 km² with more than 13.000km of coastline and home to 6.000 lakes. In the last 40 years the viticultural landscape has awakened with many emerging wine makers and increased production. There are 6 wine producing areas: Gaspereau Valley, LaHave River Valley, Annapolis Valley, Bear River Valley, Malagash Penninsula and Marble Mountain. Annapolis Valley is the largest and also the birth place of wine production as we know it today. Here, the winery: Grand Pre spearheaded wine production releasing their first commercial vintage already back in 1980. Today the region has 19 wineries for grape wine and 6 producers of fruit wine. The total production is today 211.000 cases (12 pcs) and with 21 million cases of wine in the whole of Canada, it's a drop in the bucket. Nova Scotia has a special climate where you will find the world’s highest tides in the Fundy Bay, which is placed between the mainland of Canada and Nova Scotia, with up to 3.5m difference between high tide and low. This affects the temperature, and the winds bring salinity along when the tides changes every 12 hours. The wines overall are marked by a high cleansing acidity coming from these dramatic temperature changes.

The plantings in Nova Scotia are both Vitis Vinifera and hybrids. There is a good reason for that: The climate can be rough, as it happened in February 2023 where the temperature changed from +3C to -26C in a single night destroying most of the V. vinifera plantings. The producers hope they will be restored in about 3 years time again. The hybrids on the other hand had only a minor setback and will be producing grapes this year as well as the coming couple of years.

T I DA L B AY H A S LO CA L S WAY For lunch the first day we were presented with the local appellation wines that goes by ”Tidal Bay”. It is an appellation with 14 producers of the 19 different producers in it and the 15th is considering joining, but their production is still a bit too small – you need to be able to deliver a certain volume since Tidal Bay is the local best seller. Tidal Bay is based on the different grapes of Nova Scotia, with the grapes: L’Acadie Blanc (main variety), Seyval Blanc, Vidal and Geisenheim 318 composing for at least 51% of the blend the remaining can be over 20 other grapes. The wine must at least be a blend of 2 grapes. It is a medium wine with at least 7.5g of acidity. We tasted 7 of the 14 different cuvees made in 2022 and it was easy to taste both the sugar as well as the acidity. The fruityness, viscosity, sugar and 20

acidity were in good balance for most of the wines. I found most of them had refreshing, crisp aromas and flavors of green apples, pear, quince, green honey melon, freshly cut grass, lemon zest, lychee and limestone. I think it makes great sense to produce a wine like this since it is an obvious pairing for the large amount of local seafood and shellfish that there is nearby and also on the menu for most restaurants. Tidal Bay wines are to showcase the terroir and not the grapes. So you will find that every winery has a different take on the production but still all the wines carried a clear resemblance. Tidal Bay is released annually in June at a big reveal party where is has won great local support. Yet when travelling abroad the winemakers themselves focus more on showcasing their excellent sparkling wines.

S PA R K L I N G W I N E S A N D B E YO N D We had a tasting and talk with Jean-Benoit Deslauriers, the winemaker at Benjamin Bridge. We talked quite a bit about the climate in Nova scotia and why it's great for sparkling wines made on mainly the classic Champange varietals and how the climate change have made it possible to make wine of quality in the area.

The sparkling wines from Benjamin Bridge were really something that I enjoyed especially the ”2016 Brut Nature” was high quality with astonishing complexity divided in multiple layers of different fruit nuances, and mouthwatering acidity. It made me think of the wines from Champagne and Sussex. Jean-Benoit has a side project of drinks called Piquette it's a low alcohol/no alcohol production with grape based drinks with added fruits and herbs I found it to be a great alternative to wine since it was quite vinous. Our visit at Blomidon Estate Winery, was intriguing. Simon Rafuse, the winemaker, took us out for a vineyard walk where we could really see the devastating effect of the temperature change in February: On one side plantings of Chardonnay destroyed and right next to them plantings of L'Acadie looking like almost nothing had happened. The wines I found to be the best were their 2020 and 2021 reserve Chardonnay with a great balance between the fruit and oak. The last day of visiting wineries took us to Grand Pre where we were able to try the wines for lunch they showed the production of apple based fruit drinks. Since Nova Scotia has a huge orchard production, they have been making beverage based on fruits for many years. The apple Ice cider really had an staggering taste, fantastic intensity and with acidity to match I found this 25

as something unique and tasty. We were able to try Icewines from both Luckett vineyards and Lightfoot & Wolfville it's no wonder that Icewine from Canada is enjoyed all over the world. Those wines are real beauties.

S U M M A RY My personal impression of the wines of the area is based on the different visits we had at wineries and interactions with winemakers from: Blomidon Estate Winery, Luckett Vineyards, Benjamin Bridge, Planters Ridge, Grand Pre and Lightfoot & Wolfville. We tried a lot of different wines at the different wineries. The wines where we saw a focus on quality in smaller amounts with mainly plantings of V. vinifera were by far the most interesting ones. The sparkling whites are what I personally enjoyed the most; they have a style of freshness, acidity and intensity that I could compare to sparkling wines from established areas of sparkling wine. It's a young wine region where they still think, try, test, fail, plant, produce and rethink. Some work fantastic, some are rethought and redone, this is the fact of being an emerging wine region. I think in the future we will be able to enjoy some great sparkling wines from Nova Scotia.

CHAMPAGNE JACQUES SELOSSE GUILLAUME SELOSSE DE SOUSA LAUNOIS PHILIPPE LANCELOT MARGUET ` FLEURY CHANOINE FRERES RUINART ´ KRUG DOM PERIGNON CLICQUOT PONSARDIN EGON MÜLLER SCHARZHOF MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS SOFIA THANISCH SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG PETER JAKOB KÜHN EYMANN KAI SCHÄTZEL NICOLAS JOLY LEROY DOMAINE LEROY DOMAINE D’AUVENAY GUILLAUME VRIGNAUD DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY DOMAINE J.C. RATEAU DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES LAURENT ROUMIER DOMAINE DU COUVENT DOMAINE DES VAROILLES ´ DOMAINE DU TRAGINER MAS PAILLET NENU CHATEAU CRU PEYRAGUEY CHATEAU GRILLON CHATEAU MOULIN SANT VINCENT GRAND FERRAND CHATEAU TOURNEFEUILLE CHATEAU ROCHEYRON DOMINIO DE PINGUS PETER SISSECK QUINTA SARDONIA GALIA TERRAS GAUDA CASA LOS FRAILES See more producers and tastings on www.esprit-du-vin.com L’Esprit du Vin · Snaregade 6 · Copenhagen · T +45 70 20 10 60 · email@esprit-du-vin.com 26

SANCERRE

DOMAINE GÉRARD MILLET Nyhed i familien

ENKELT MARK

1021013

1021015

1021017

1021011

Gérard Millet Sancerre Blanc

Gérard Millet Sancerre Blanc Le Désert Du Petit Bannon

Gérard Millet Sancerre Blanc Chêne Marchand

Gérard Millet Menetou-Salon Blanc

Domaine Gérard Millet ligger i Bué, få kilometer fra Sancerre. Ejendommen har været i familiens eje gennem de sidste fem generationer. Vinmarkerne strækker sig over 24 hektar og går gennem Sancerre og Menetou-Salon. Jorden dyrkes på en måde, så hver enkelt marks karakteristika fremhæves. Domaine Gérard Millets dybdegående kendskab

til terroiret er det, der adskiller dem fra alle andre, og dette kendskab kommer tydeligt til udtryk i deres vine. Druerne udvælges nøje, og hver enkelt vinmark høstes separat, ligesom druerne fra hver enkelt gennemgår separate vinfremstillingsprocedurer. Hvert terroir har forskellige karakteristika, som giver hver sin unikke vin.

Interview with Greg Lambrecht of Coravin B Y: N I N A J E N S E N

Coravin has brought a massive, global change throughout the wine industry. I got a unique chance to speak to the man behind it – Greg Lambrecht. He is one of those people where you immediately sense that there is a meaning to what he says, despite being seemingly easy-going and cheerful, there is a sincerity and gravitas of thought behind which leaves you inspired. With a simple desire to liberate the wine drinker,

Greg Lambrecht

he set out to create Coravin. Applying the methodically, critically result driven approach from his Medicinal background, it was only after years of thinking, testing, and adjusting that Coravin came onto the market. We talked about the intentions and challenges along the way, some of the technical details of use as well as the application to different closures and the surprises Greg has encountered on the journey.

W H AT W E R E T H E M A I N CO N C E R N S R I G H T B E F O R E L A U N C H I N G CO RAV I N? “At had a couple of challenges in the beginning. One of them was the certainty of it - You know I had been doing 11 years’ worth of testing on the system and I knew it worked for me – but it was really critical for me that others have that same experience, because the perception of your reality frequent-

ly drives your reality. And so all the many technologies that had predecessed Coravin had not worked. Wine preservation was pretty poor-quality, lowcost devices that maybe could extend the life of a wine with a day or two, and maybe not. So, my goal with Coravin was really to fundamentally change the way wine is served, sold, and enjoyed. To expand the ways that it could be enjoyed. For that it meant I needed the wine to last for years after I had Coravined it, because that would eliminate any hesitation between me and any glass of wine that I wanted, which was the freedom I was looking for with Coravin; a freedom that had not existed prior.” “So I’ve got to answer with two major concerns: One big hurl was proving that it works to others, so they could feel comfortable.

The other was that I have a lot of respect for the traditions of the wine world – you know I come from the outside, I work in medicine, so I’m not a winemaker, I’m not a Sommelier, I have never studied wine apart from drinking it. So, from Medicine, I have a lot of respect for the hierarchy of thought in a given field.

There are people who are trendsetters and important, and also there are winemakers; I mean Coravin is useless without what they do. We use our product on theirs. And so, I was concerned that we could come in as some crazy newfangled American technology that would run head on into a more than 400-year-old industry of

cork and glass. I mean – you look at screw cap, which is an excellent solution to closing a bottle of wine, and how it has struggled! And so, I thought, how do we come into the wine market from this strange tangent and integrate into the market instead of clash with it?”

“So those where two: Prove to others that it actually worked so they can feel comfortable using it and essentially change their behavior, which is actually really the goal of Coravin; to enable that behavior change. Drinking whatever wine you want by the glass. Then the other one is making sure that we respected the people and the practices of this 8000-yearold beverage- and 400 year old wine system.”

D I D T H E Y P ROV E TO B E T H E G R E AT E S T C H A L L E N G E S? “And then, what was the reality?” Greg chuckles a little. “What actually happened? You know we used a strategy of always going to the winemaker first whenever we went to a country, to get their byend, because I never wanted a winemaker to walk into a restaurant and say: What the heck is that? What are you doing to my wine! And so it has been a global effort of going all over the world and meeting with winemakers before launcing in their country. I was in Napa, Oregon and Washington and Tim (red. Mondavi) was there, and then we were in Bordeaux and Burgundy, we were all over Germany, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, China – meeting with winemakers so they understood what the technology was. Gave them one so that they could try it themselves, did blindtastings with them on their own wine, stored in their own cellars, coming back months and years later – particularly in Napa and Burgun-

dy – and that demonstrating to them what is was, how to use it and what it did. I think it worked pretty well. We also did the same thing with top Sommeliers around the world. So we held Sommelier tastings in New York, San Fransisco, Los Angeles, Chicaco and Dallas, but also in London and Paris, in Rome, in Milan, Rioja, Madrid, all over Germany, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, with the top Sommeliers in those regions where they would access the wine, they would sign and date the bottles and store them at the restaurant, where we would then come back and blind taste them again three months later, one year and two, three, five years (whatever it was) again. And that helped also, that sort of strategy at launch. Going from the winemakers to the sommelier to the wine press.” “The biggest challenge with Coravin is changing behavior. I talk to consumers all the time, and talk to them about Coravin – the response is often; oh I just finish the bottle, so shy do I need this? And it is because for the last 400 years wine has come in the, roughly, 750ml container. That is five-six servings, and we have constructed our wine consumption-behavior around that volume of the container: We drink wine when drinking a bottle makes sense. What we worked really hard at and it proved to be the biggest challenge was to let people know, that yes they could now have exactly the glass of white, a glass of red and a

glass of sweet on a Tuesday. You can drink whatever volume you want, however little when you want. Communicating that message and getting that changing behavior in anything you do in new product development whether it is in medicine or in wine, is always the hardest part.”

H OW LO N G T I M E D I D I T TA K E TO D E V E LO P T H E CO RAV I N? W H E N WA S THE FIRST EDITION D O N E? “A long time. My real work – or I consider it “my real work” – is in medicine - so I invent and develop new medical theraies right, and by the time I came over the idea of Coravin I ahd two medical companies that I was running at the same time. I was very, very busy. But I loved wine. And what I loved about wine was it’s variety. I wanted to learn faster: The busy guy at home with a spouse who didn’t drink wine very much and if she drank wine it was exclusively Barolo, which I love, but you know, exclusively Barolo that is tough! I like so many other things too, and so I wanted to learn faster. And I felt that I was always compromising.” “I started to become frustrated with that constraint. I wanted to be able to taste wines every day and pair them at home, but still be able to offer my spouse what she wanted, and I wanted to be able to offer my friends whatever they wanted, not just ‘what was open’, you

know this phrase that we use. And I then came up with this idea in 1999, and my spouse was pregnant at the time, so that accelerated the need,” Greg laughs at the memory of the ‘desperate’ time “So the first prototype was made in 2000 and then a really functional one in 2003 which allowed me to experiment with different gasses, pressures and needles as well as different wine varieties. ” It would take another 8 years of testing in a five-year model before launching the company in 2011. During these 8 years, Greg would taste again and again and endless number of wines from all categories. While back vintages were more difficult to conclude from due to bottle variation, he still even did that.

have no hesitation between me and a great bottle of wine. But I loved doing this research, because it meant every time somebody mentioned something meant I had an opportunity to learn about it. i didn’t want to overpromise and underdeliver.”

“I was drinking a lot of Nebbiolo at the time, and I’m from California, so a lot of Cab, I love Syrah from Northern Rhône and then friends would come over and say; yeah but does it work on Pinot Noir? On Burgundy? Sauvignon Blanc? Does it work on German Riesling vs. Austrian Riesling – you name it. Everyone would challenge it, so what I did was by half case of whatever wine they mentioned, and I would Coravin a glass out of the first bottle, come back after one month and blind taste against a fresh bottle and then six months, another bottle having the other ones still, and then one years, two years and five years. And so I started these five year long tests as I thought: If I can’t tell the difference after five years then I

“Technique absolute matters – we call it the 4 C’s of Coravin: Clean, Clear, Cellar and Cork. And so, Clean: It is remarkable every time I say that someone always looks back at me in disbelief, and I go: Well how long time have you been using your Coravin? Oh, years? And you have never cleaned it? It is like drinking out of a glass that you’ve never washed!” I can’t help laughing at the paradox: Even if he has seen it many times by now, it must be almost anxiety provoking to a man of Medicine!

The dedication to his promise has built a rather spectacular private By the glass program at Greg’s where he still has more than 800 bottles of wine at his house, constituting the largest in USA, he says with with a measured amount of sarcasm.

W H AT A R E E S S E N T I A L P RACT I C E S F O R U S I N G CO RAV I N TO M AX I M I Z E I T S E F F E CT I V E N E S S I N P R E S E RV I N G W I N E?

“But that just means, people think about Corvin as a corkscrew. So that means hot water every night through the needle. And to people who have never washed it I say: pour a cheap bottle of Vodka down here and 32

try to kill all the Brettanomyces and saccharomyces that is now living inside of your Coravin!” “Clearing is simple, you just give it a quick press before you go in. If you don’t, the first thing that goes into the next wine you coravin is either a shot of air or oxidized wine. So it is really super critical sparge the system.” “Cellaring – it is really much better to keep the bottles dark and laying down rather than upright; wine in contact with cork is good. People sometimes seem to think that because there is argan in the bottle it somehow becomes impervious to light, heat, vibration or storage conditions.” “And then Cork. The worst corks in my opinion are plastic, bad for the environment, doesn’t allow the wine to breath and can’t reseal - I just hope they go away. Screwcap is great and we have developed a Coravinclosure for that. Then there is this wonderful new biopolymer cork from Nomacork made out of sugarcane. Unfortunately that doesn’t reseal even though it actually looks like it reseals and doesn’t drip. So cut the foil and look at the cork. But also old corks and very cold corks: If it is a very old cork it is less elastic but also if it is a very cold cork it is less elastic. So the trick with cold corks is to let it sit outside for a few minutes and then press down on the top to help the cork reseal before putting

it back. Diams are great; treat it like a cold cork. I am a huge fan of Diam and they just keep getting better and better. Diam have also tested with Coravin and found it to be effective.” Greg shows how to apply good pressure with his thumb on the top of the botte of 2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Hudellot-Noellat he has just used enthusiastically for demonstration.

IN TERMS OF WINE P R E S E RVAT I O N, A R E T H E R E A N Y L I M I TAT I O N S OR SCENARIOS IN WHICH CO RAV I N M AY N OT B E T H E M O S T S U I TA B L E C H O I C E? “For very old or dodgy corks we have developed Pivot. Here you replace the cork with the Pivot stopper and it actually works better. So before using Coravin try to press a little

down on the cork – if the cork slides pull it and replace with Pivot, otherwise it won’t work well because the cork is just barely hanging on.”

H AV E YO U S E E N CO RAV I N B E I N G U S E D I N WAY S YO U D I D N’T E X P E CT I T TO B E? “At Châteu Margaux they use Coravin to sample every bottle before it goes out to an event. And they used to send multiple bottles to ensure nothing was wrong with them. They have also implemented it to their recorking process: They used to open up all the bottles, taste them and then choose which bottle to fill the rest up with. Now they coravin across all the bottles, find the one they want to fill up the rest with and then pull the cork, fill and close immediately, limiting the oxygen influx. Didn’t expect that.”

“I did not know how the wine industry worked, so I hadn’t thought about how wine importers for instance used to schedule their day around when a bottle was opened, and they didn’t use to bring expensive wines. Now they do – that was unexpected to me.” In developing Corvin, Greg has not only expanded his own horizons of wine, but he has also provided sommeliers with a much more extensive way to learn, share with each other and guests which is increasingly relevant in a world where the most sought-after segments of wines become increasingly unobtainable. Who knew that could emerge from wanting just to drink something else that Nebbiolo every now and then?

A RO U N D T H E M O D E L S: Timeless: Pours slower, needs extensive cleaning, technique dependent, Model 3 and Model 6 are differences between looks, form and color. You don’t need something for each bottle. You can have unlimited use from just one device. Pivot: Largely for restaurants. never wastes gas, doesn’t need sparging, shorter shelf life than timeworth, works with every stopper, needs an individual (reusable) stopper. A great amount of research laid the ground for the choice of material – curiously enough many wine closures are made of silicone rubber, which is just an open highway for oxygen. So at Coravin they looked to the world of medicinal materials to develop it. Sparkling: Pivot material went into the sparkling stopper. And now Greg also drinks sparkling wines at home which he didn’t before, so it is probably his favorite thing, and he spent the entire pandemic with 200 different sparkling wines. We say officially up to a month but effectively it can in most cases last much longer. Vinetas: Newest in the line. Meant to reform the way we purchase wines. Relying on the consumer to be willing to buy more of a wine if he/she likes it and eliminating the hesitation plus ensuring that you will drink wines that you like. Essentially the world smallest bottling line, pouring it in to serve-sizes tasting like they just came out of the bottle. It takes about half an our to fraction a bottle into 7 smaller containers. “I look at Vinetas and I look at the wine industry and how it can be competitive in a market where other beverages such as beer come in single sizes. But cans doesn’t work with every type if wine as glass does. So essentially Vinetas is a miniature screw capped bottle.

Danmarks eneste kvalitetsvin er den mousserende vin DONS (BOB) Danmarks første Beskyttede Oprindelses Betegnelse: DONS (BOB) fra vinområde Dons - EU’s nordligste appellation. BOB svarer til AOC eller DOC. Skærsøgaard’s mousserende vin DONS har været kendt gennem 20 år og har opnået mere end 100 præmieringer. Den nærproducerede vin forespørges af kunder til det Nordiske Køkken – senest ved 10 Nordiske Michelin restauranters festmiddag, Stars du Nord, i Stockholm. Rekvirer engrosliste for direkte levering på salg@dansk-vin.dk Giv kunderne mulighed for at opleve den danske certificerede kvalitetsvin.

- første autoriserede vingård i Danmark 36

www.dansk-vin.dk

Scan QR koden med din smartphone og kom direkte til Domaine Laroche.

www.ottosuenson.dk 37

Your Weekend Wine Will Be Cheaper - and You Can Thank China, the Harvest, and the World's Economic Rollercoaster

T R A N S C R I P T E D A N D T R A N S L AT E D F R O M D R.D K

If you're a wine enthusiast, you're in for a treat this year as wine prices take an unexpected dip, all thanks to a combination of factors that have turned the wine market on its head. From oversupply due to bumper harvests to shifting consumer preferences and even surprising new outlets for excess wine, the wine world is experiencing a transformation.

Y E L LOW P R I C E TAG S E V E RYW H E R E

and promotions to sell their stock.

Head to your local wine store, and you might be greeted by bright yellow price tags adorning bottles that once bore heftier price tags. The reason behind this wine bonanza? The wine industry finds itself in a unique confluence of circumstances, driving winemakers to offer exceptional discounts

One such store, Vild med vin in Holstebro, Denmark, recently slashed the price of an American merlot from DKK 150 to just DKK 55, leaving even the store's co-owner, Peter Pedersen, in awe. "It looks completely unnatural, but it is happening right now.

The winemakers come up with such offers and activities because they just want to sell some wine," he explains. Winemakers from far-flung places like Chile are even making long-distance calls to secure meetings with retailers in the hopes of moving a little more of their wine.

T H E P E R F E CT S TO R M FOR WINEMAKERS Winemakers worldwide are feeling the squeeze from multiple angles. Oversupply, driven by large harvests in several wine-producing regions, has led to a flooded market. Couple this with a decrease in wine consumption, a big contrast to the increased consumption during the pandemic, and you have a recipe for challenging times for winemakers. Mads Jordansen, a wine connoisseur and the editor of Winelab.dk, explains, "So we're seeing a larger amount of wine on the market and a declining demand, and of course, that presents a lot of challenges for winemakers."

C H A N G I N G CO N S U M E R TA S T E S Wine exports from major wine-producing countries like Chile and Australia have seen significant declines, with exports to China taking a hit due to trade conflicts. Additionally, Danish consumers are showing a growing (or returning) preference for European wines over overseas varieties. Mads Jordansen elaborates, "One of the reasons is, that many consumers are beginning to consider whether we need to drink wine produced on the other side of the world and instead look at what has been produced in the immediate vicinity." Consumers are also increasingly seeking buzzwords like "natural wine," "sustainability," and "low intervention," opting for unique offerings like nerello macalese from Mount Etna in Italy over more common choices. 40

W I N E'S S U R P R I S I N G J O U R N E Y TO T H E P H A R M AC E U T I CA L I N D U S T RY Desperate times call for creative solutions. In response to sluggish sales and overflowing stocks, the wine industry is exploring alternative avenues, including partnerships with the pharmaceutical industry. Some winemakers are converting excess wine into spirits that can be used for medical or industrial purposes. Mads Jordansen notes, "You can convert some of the wine into spirits, which you can use medically or in other ways in industry, where you use alcohol for different types of products."

W H AT L I E S A H E A D FOR WINE PRICES While wine enthusiasts are enjoying discounted bottles currently, the wine market's new normal is likely to persist for some time. CEO of Supervin, Mads Jensen, predicts, "It will run at least throughout the year, and I think we will also see a lot of good offers on wine next year." Yet, not all wine segments are feeling the economic downturn. The most expensive bottles, such as champagne and burgundy, continue to see price increases, defying the overall trend. As Mads Jordansen points out, "There are some segments that have simply experienced prices that have doubled, tripled, and quadrupled in the last few years. So it's a very fragmented market." In conclusion, for many consumers the weekend wine is about to get a lot more affordable, thanks to an oversupply of wine, changing consumer tastes, and innovative solutions to combat the challenges faced by the wine industry. Whether you're a seasoned wine enthusiast or just looking for a good deal, now might be the perfect time to explore new varieties and enjoy your favorite drops without breaking the bank. 41

NYHED FRA BOURGOGNE

DOMAINE DUBOIS Bernard & Fils er et lille vinhus, der drives af vinmager Jacques Dubois, som er 5. generation vinmager i familien. Han laver klassiske, terroir-typiske vine fra små parceller omkring byerne Aloxe-Corton, Beaune, Savigny les Beaune og Chorey les Beaune, hvor vingården også ligger. Druerne til disse eksklusive vine, som produceres i meget begrænsede mængder, kommer fra vingårdens egne 13 hektar vinmarker. Jacques Dubois er kendt for at fremstille aromatiske vine fulde af krop med stort lagringspotentiale.

avigny-lès-Beaune blanc er en delikat vin, med citrus og eksotiske noter. Let gylden farve med en intens næse af hvide blomster, og romaer af smørbrioche og ristede nødder.

Bourgogne Alligoté har en let parfumeret bouquet med strejf af markblomster og grønne æbler. Mellemfyldig, god syre og lang eftersmag.

Savigny-lès-Beaune blanc er en delikat vin, med citrus og eksotiske noter. Let gylden farve med en intens næse af hvide blomster, og aromaer af smørbrioche og ristede nødder.

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru ”Clos de Guette” har stor finesse med friske aromaer af moreller og skovbær.

Beaune 1er Cru ”Les Bressandes” er en meget struktureret vin med blomsternoter af violer og pæoner og en fløjlsblød finesse. Den har god vægt med smag af røde kirsebær og hindbær og en forfriskende syre.

Kontakt sommelier John David Poulsen for 42 en smagning: jdp@hansjust.dk / 31 39 00 27.

En hyldest til Antinoris historiske vin Villa Antinori Rosso EN GENFORTOLKNING AF DEN TOSCANSKE KLASSIKER. EN VIN I TOPKLASSE MED SIN HELT EGEN UMISKENDELIGE STIL.

2020 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA VILLA ANTINORI, DOCG Sangiovese /Cabernet Sauvignon Fadlagret 12-15 mdr. Lyst/mørkt kød /fjerkræ Riedel Cabernet/Merlot

93 point - Wine Spectator

EN BLØD OG LEVENDE VIN, FULD AF SMAG, MED EN FRUGTIG OG KRYDRET KARAKTER. UTROLIG DELIKAT, DEDIKERET OG MEGET ELEGANT MED MASSER AF CHARME OG STRUKTUR.

The wine year in review B Y: N I N A J E N S E N

As we bid adieu to another eventful year, it's time to raise a glass and reflect upon the myriad stories that have unfolded in the captivating world of wine. From those we have lost, to that which emerge, new legislations, to new corporations; we here brush up the year of 2023.

1. I N T H E M A R K E T: MADE IN CHINA

M O D E R N DAY W I N E PULLING SCHEME

Authorities in China's Fujian province have discovered more than 40,000 bottles of fake Lafite and Penfolds wines in a police raid on warehouses. The value of the wines discovered is believed to be over 1.5 million US dollars. It is not the first time that fake bottles from Penfolds have been discovered during police raids in China ,where it is believed to be the most counterfeited brand. At the same time suspicion raises for aged and rare wines with reports of Kurniwawan out of jail and attending Rare fine wine tasting again.

Bordeaus is in a crisis: As a third of Bordelaise grape growers struggle economically, 10% of them not even making minimum salary, and Bordeaux have contributed greatly to the bulk wine industry in the later vintages, the Bordeaux producers’ association are making use of drastic means: In an agreement with the French government they are now funding the grubbing-up of no less than 9500ha of vineyards corresponding to just shy of 10% of the total acreage in Bordeaux.

PA N G E A O F W I N E S Michel Rolland as The French wine consultant Michel Rolland has presented a wine project that brings together wines from five countries of the world from Bordeaux grape varieties in a cuvée. From this, he is composing a blend called ‘Pangaea’, which will cost around 500 euros per bottle. Only 2,500 bottles are produced per vintage. Each grape variety in the cuvée comes from a defined origin: Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Merlot from the Right Bank in Bordeaux, Petit Verdot from Dehesa del Carrizal as "Vino de Pago" in Spain, Cabernet Franc from Helderberg in

South Africa, and Malbec from Valle de Uco in Argentina. The wines are barrel-aged at the producers and transported in double-walled steel tanks with a volume of 50-300l

DATA B A S E O F O L D V I N E YA R D S The new online database Old Vine Registry (OVR) documents vineyards worldwide with vines that are at least 35 years old. The project initiated by Jancis Robinson MW and her team and is available to all interested parties free of charge. Wineries and wine lovers can enter the data of historic vineyards themselves and currently, 2,200 vineyards are recorded in the register. To expand the register, the OVR team is calling on all winegrowers and wine lovers to add the data of more vineyards online. www.oldvineregistry.org

RA N K I N G T H E 10 M O S T E X P E N S I V E C H A M PAG N E S O F 2023 The online platform wine-searcher has published the current ranking of the ten most expensive champagnes. Dom Pérignon P3 Plénitude Brut Rosé is at the top with an average retail price of 5,051 euros. In the 2020 ranking, this champagne still cost 2,208 euros and was in fifth place. The white Dom Pérignon P3 Plénitude Brut variant follows in second place with 4,837 euros (2020: 2,452 euros). Third place went to the Louis Roederer Cristal "Gold Medalion" Orfevres Limited Edition

Brut Millesimé at 3,894 euros. Its gold-embellished bottle was designed by Philippe Di Méo. It is followed by Krug Clos d'Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut at 2,483 euros, Dom Pérignon Oenotheque Rosé (2,750 euros), Bollinger RD Extra Brut "Spectre" James Bond 007 Edition (2,617 euros), Jacques Selosse Millésimé, the first vintner champagne (2.467 euros), Dom Pérignon Cuvée Réserve de L'Abbaye (2,318 euros), Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut (2,149 euros) and Louis Roederer Cristal Vinothèque Edition Brut Rosé Millésimé at 2,074 euros.

ALBANIA JOINS OIV Albania is now the 50th member of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV). In 2022, Albania had a wine-growing area of 11,339 hectares. According to OIV statistics, the country ranks 41st in the world in terms of producers and 55th in terms of consumers.

2. T E C H N O LO G Y: M AC H I N E P R U N I N G REDUCES DISEASES Vines pruned by machine are said to show up to three times fewer symptoms of wood diseases than vines pruned by hand, according to a French study at the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC). Claire Grosbellet, in charge of vineyards and wine in the BNIC's research department, says: "Our experiments and our literature analysis show us that machine prun46

ing reduces Esca symptoms by 25% and mortality by 61% compared to manual pruning". A drawback from the machine pruning is that it potentially shortens the life expectancy of a vine, but it would still be able to last well over 20 years. Machine pruning has increased in France in IGP and Vin de France vineyards with yields over 80 hl/ha, but is not allowed in any AOC.

V I T I C U LT U RA L S AT E L L I T E S French consultant and wine entrepreneur Bernard Magrez uses satellite data to study the effects of drought and heat on vineyards. In orbit at an altitude of 786 km, ESA's Sentinel-2 satellite delivers images of the 90 hectares of vineyards at his Château Pape Clément in Pessac Léognan every week. These images are analysed by the British start-up Deep Planet, founded in 2018 by researchers from the University of Oxford. The scientists have used AI to develop an analytical model to predict the ripeness and yield of the vines, which is currently used by around 60 wineries with 50,000 hectares of vineyards worldwide.

The partnership aims to help wineries understand how their vineyards are responding to climate change. "Deep Planet provides us with a cartography of the water status of the soil and the vitality of the vines throughout the season," explains Julien Ducourt, R&D manager of Bernard Magrez's four Grand Cru Classé châteaux: Château Pape Clément, Fombrauge in Saint-Emilion, La Tour Carnet in Haut-Médoc and Clos Haut Peyraguey in Sauternes. By cross-referencing the satellite data with data from sensors used in Pape Clément's vineyards, the Deep Planet team found out which plots were most likely to be at risk from heat in the future, he said. "We would never have seen this with the naked eye

and were surprised to find that some plots we thought would suffer the most are not necessarily at risk - and vice versa," Julien Ducourt told the wine magazine Vitisphere.

C L I M B I N G TO T H E TO P The company CH Engineering from Kröv on the Mosel has put the world's first steep-slope grape harvester into series production. It manages slopes of up to 75 percent and can also be used in terraces. According to CH Engineering, the quality of the grapes and the protection of the vineyards were at the forefront of the machine's development. The steep-slope harvester runs on caterpillar tracks, is secured with an electronic winch and is capable of turning on steep slopes.

CLEANING THE CO R K B Y CO R K

OCEAN

The closure manufacturer Vinventions has launched the new "Nomacorc Ocean" cork made from recycled Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP). According to the company, it is the first wine closure in the world to be made from that. "The raw material for Nomacorc Ocean closures comes from the coastal areas of Southeast Asia," Romain Thomas, Nomacorc product manager at Vinventions, says about the new closure. Vinventions chose the Sicilian winery Donnafugata and its white wine Damarino for the launch of the cork. By using the cork, Donnafugata recycled 1.15 tonnes of waste, he said.

3. L E G I S L AT I O N: T H E N E W AVA S Winters Highlands AVA and Long Valley Lake County were the pair of AVAs to emerge in 2023 - Both are located in California. Winters Highlands AVA is split between Yolo and Solano Counties, on the eastern slopes of Coastal Range adjacent to Napa. Here the cultivation is focused on Syrah, Tempranillo, Petite Syrah, Grenache and Malbec for reds and Sauvignon Blanc and Albraiño for whites, grown on mainly gravelly loam over red clay. Long Valley Lake County AVA is the most recent and, as the name reveals, located in Lake County where it becomes the 10th AVA. Positioned in a narrow valley and stretching up the foothills, it hugs High Valley AVA alongside the eastern edge, marking the eastern border of the county. Wind throughout the valley influences the terroir, while the soils are a complex patchwork of limestone, gravel, sand, silt. Bordeaux varietals are cultivated alongside Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as main varietals.

E X PA N S I O N IN PIEDMONT The expansion of DOCGs in Piedmont are strictly monitored and dictated. The consortium have announced, that the acreage of DOCG vines will grow by 622ha by 2025. Already this year plantings of Nebbiolo in Langhe have been made since the government (in Dec 2022) approved 66ha in Barolo and 21ha in Barbaresco.

Gavi DOCG is set to grow by 15ha. The focus though seems to be on sparkling to meet the increased demand: Alta Langa DOCG will almost double in size with 220ha and Moscato Bianco will be the big winner with a projected 300ha pending approval. The approval of Canelli DOCG as the 19th DOCG of Piedmont makes it the most recent of DOCGs in Italy and covers the historic center of Moscato d’Asti. It is believed to have boosted the popularity of Moscato. It is the forerunner to Asti Spumante and must be made on 100% Moscato grapes from 17 municipalities around Canelli town. It can be dry to sweet and comes in a Riserva variant too, which is allowed to be sold earliest after 30 months bottle aging.

… A N D L I M I TAT I O N O F P RO S E CCO D O C While Piedmont sparkling wines might be booming, Prosecco is facing difficulties. A new maximum yield has been imposed as of next year capping it at 18tonnes/ha, but effectively only a portion of the yield may be sold as Prosecco DOC meaning the end result would correspond to 15tonnes/ ha. The remainder can be used to produce base wine reserves, which use will be authorized by the consortium. At the same time a strict time frame of when the harvest may be sold is installed, so DOC Prosecco can only be sold from 1st of January the following year.

R KAT S I T E L I I S O F F I C I A L LY W E LCO M E D The 10th most cultivated white wine varietal of the world, Rkatsiteli, is finally officially being included into the French Grape variety catalogue. While it is found mainly in its mother-country Georgia, also Armenia and Ukraine has substantial plantings and it has even reached China, USA, New Zealand and Australia. Rkatsiteli has a bunch of attributes that are more relevant today than ever: It is frost resistant, has as good resilience towards both mildew and botrytis, is late ripening, has high acidity, can be used for the production of dry and sweet wines and carries aromatic similarities with Colombard. While it is not very fertile and needs long puning, it can provide good yields of large bunches of the characteristically egg-shaped berries.

RETURN OF WHITE WINE U N D E R M E D O C AO P The Médoc Winegrowers' Association (ODG) has presented its specifications for the white AOC Mèdoc. At least 30 percent of the white wines are to be aged in barriques to give them typicity to distinguish them from other appellations such as Entre-deux-Mers. In blind tastings, all white wines that were not aged in wood were recognised as Bordeaux, but were not classified as typical of the Médoc. In addition, the ODG wants to allow the varieties Chardonnay, Chenin, Gros Manseng and Viognier. They are already grown in

small quantities in the area. The main varieties for white Médoc are still Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. However, the Piwi varieties Floréal, Sauvignac, Souvignier gris, Alvarinho, Liliorila and Voltis are also permitted. They may account for a maximum of five percent of the cultivated area and ten percent of the assemblage. In addition, Chardonnay, Gros Manseng, Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Petit Manseng are also to be included. However, as they are not allowed to make up more than 15 percent of the vineyard area and the composition of the cuvées, they cannot be mentioned on the label. As the spokespersons of the appella-

tion explained, they want to gain experience with these varieties by including them in the official grape variety list in order to be prepared for the future and climate change.

T H E CO M P L E T I O N O F DAC… The Thermenregion will be the last Austrian wine-growing region to install a DAC system with the 2023 vintage. Chris Yorke, Managing Director of Österreich Wein Marketing (ÖWM) is pleased "that we have now been able to complete the DAC family with the Thermenregion. The DAC system is an Austrian success story: It allows each region to legally protect its origin-typical wine styles.” 50

The Thermenregion DAC will be based on the pyramid of origin with the levels Gebietswein - Ortswein - Riedenwein. For single vineyard wines the leading varieties Zierfandler, Rotgipfler, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay are permitted … AND ONWARDS TO VINEYARD CLASSIFICATION. While several private organizations such as ÖTW, Vinea Wachau and STK for years have been working to classify individual vineyards, Austrian Wine now have adopted a vineyard classification into its legislative system. This means that Erste Lage (Premier Gru) and Gross Lage (Grand Cru) are now official terms across

entire Austria under one system. The intention is to let each DAC define what vineyards to classify, but a Grosse Lage can not be named before it has been produced as Erste Lage for minimum 5 years. Furthermore lower yields and hand harvest are required. The first official Erste Lage sites are expected to be declared in 2025.

15 N E W V I Ñ E D O S SINGULARES In the Denominación de Origen Calificada (DDOCa Rioja, the Spanish government has designated 15 new vineyards from nine farms as "Viñedos Singulares" (single vineyards). This means that the appellation has 148 single vineyard sites from 90 owners with a total of 246 ha. To be classified as single vineyard, the vines must be at least 35 years old. Yields are limited to 5,000 kg per hectare for red varieties and 6,922 kg/ha for white. The juice yield is limited to 65 litres per 100 kg of grapes, cultivation must be environmentally friendly and harvesting must be done by hand. In addition, the wines must pass two quality tastings: One shortly after completion of fermentation, a second shortly before release for marketing. The quality must be judged as "excellent" by the majority of the tasters. With the rating "Viñedos Singulares", which is indicated on the back label of the wines, the Rioja Control Board guarantees wines from a special ter-

roir. The distinction was introduced in 2017.

SUBREGIONS IN VINO NOBILE D I M O N T E P U LC I A N O The winegrowers of the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation are officially allowed to indicate the twelve sub-regions referred to as UGAs on the label from the 2021 vintage. To achieve the UGA the wine must meet stricter production demands with lower yields, more minimum Sangiovese and longer élevage. The approximately 300,000 bottles will go on sale from 1 January 2025. They are based on the historical parishes into which the production area was divided since the Middle Ages.

U P DAT E D M A P O F E T N A CO N T RA D E The Sicilian Etna DOC appellation was previously divided into 133 recognised sites, the so-called contrade. Now, the consortium for the protection of Etna wines has published a new updated map of the wine-growing area. The number of official contrade has increased by nine individual vineyards to 142. They are spread over eleven municipalities with the majority (41) in Castiglione di Sicilia. Previously, the contrade were identified using interpretations of old cadastral maps, which show outdated terrain and territorial boundaries that no longer exist due to the eruptions of Mount Etna. The wineries have already been allowed to write the vineyard 51

name on the label since 2011.

N E W I N T E R P R E TAT I O N O F T H E RO S É CAT E G O RY The Department of Agriculture of South Africa has now approved the production of rosé wines pressed from white wines and stored in barrels that previously contained red wine. The small Mooi Bly winery in Paarl used this process for the first time in 2020, as owner Lisbeth Wouters explains: "We had some Chenin Blanc left and there was no more room in our stainless steel tanks. So we decided to age it in French oak barrels that had already been used for our Malbec, as we knew the wine would take on a bit of colour." Based on the positive result, she applied for a permit to market the wine in this way. This has now been granted.

VO LT I S E N T E R S C H A M PAG N E L'Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité (Inao) approved grape variety Volits for the production of Champagne AOP. With its introduction in the Champagne appellation, Voltis would be the first grape variety resistant to downy and powdery mildew to be included in a AOP specification for wine. Voltis can make up maximum 5 % of the cultivated areas of a farm and up to 10 % of the final wine.

TIGHTER GRIP ON D RY A L S AC E W I N E S Last year new labeling rules were introduced on Alsace AOP and Alsace Grand Cru to

better guide the consumer in the styles. The rules favored dry styles and now the maximum allowed sugar levels are lowered (with the exception of SGN and VT) from 6 to 4g/l or from 12 to 9g/l following the 2-gram rule of the tartaric acid/l not being more than 2 grams below the sugar content.

4. OW N E R S H I P A N D W I N E M A K E R S: P ROV E N C E C R U C L A S S É E N T E R S LV M H U M B R E L L A Has acquired majority stake in Château Minuty, best known for their exclusive rosé wines. The Château is ne of 18 classified growths in Provence. Minuty will be complimenting the other rosé focused Provencal Cru Classé estate of Château Galoupet as well as Château d’Esclans in the portfolio of LVMH.

TA L E N T M OV E S F RO M M O Ë T H E N N E S S Y TO CHARLES HEIDSIECK Aged “just” 36-year old Elise Losfelt have already been the head of winemaking at Moët Hennessy. She now assumes the responsibility as the new Cellar Master of Charles Heidsieck Champagne succeeding Cyril Brun. Cyril Brin becomes the first Chef de Caves to leave champagne in favor of working for an Italian sparkling wine producer: Ferrari, where he will be succeeding Ruben Laurentis after 37 years of Ferrari wines and multiple honors.

N O S TA LG I C AQ U I R E M E N T IN SAINT ESTEPHE The Cru Classé Cos Labory in Saint-Estèphe have sold to the neighbour and former sister vineyard: Cos d’Estournel due to lack of descendants. Thus, the historic vineyard of Cos d’Estournel as it existed at the time of its 1855 classification will be restored.

ON AND OFF ORNELLAIA German Axel Heinz departure from Ornellaia and Masseto this Summer after 17 years as the winemaker marked a new era for the two Super Tuscans. While Heinz will be pursuing a career in Bordeaux at Château Lascombes he is succeeded by Marco Balsimelli, who has been working as a wine consultant in Bordeaux under Eric Boissenot and most recently as the oenologist of Gruaud Larose. That is not the only big change they are facing in the Frescobaldi group: Also the 78-year old chairman of the group, Giovanni Geddes da Filicia is retiring by the end of the year. Geddes have always been of international vision, illustrated for instance in 2008 brought Masseto to Place de Bordeaux marketplace as the first Italian wine, paving the way for dozens of Italian wines to follow.

A N T I N O R I B E CO M E S E XC L U S I V E S H A R E H O L D E R S O F I CO N I C N A PA P RO D U C E R The Italian wine company Marchesi Antinori is taking over all shares of the top winery Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in 52

Napa Valley from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. While Antinori has held a minority stake since 2007, they are now acquiring the remaining 85%. "It is a source of pride for me and my family to have the opportunity to fulfil the promise I made to my friend Warren Winiarski 16 years ago to preserve the heritage and values of such a renowned winery as Stag's Leap Wine Cellars," Antinori said.

I N M E M O RY O F Lucien Lurton: Bordeaux lost a giant with the passing of the 97 years old Lucien Lurton. As one of the most influential figures in the wine community of Bordeaux he is honoured as one of the architects behind the comeback of Bordeaux from the 1970’ies and onwards. From Graves up to Brane Cantenac and Entredeux-Mers he advocated an elegant, racy style which he stuck to through various trends towards concentration and extraction. He is survived by his wife and eleven children, ten of whom work in wine. Jacky Blot: One of the iconic winemakers, Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups passed away aged 75. He is credited with restoring the reputation of Montlouis and inspiring many with his infectious enthusiasm, championing Chenin, Cab Franc and sparkling wines. Fermenting in barrels and focusing on dry Chenin already back in the 90’ies he catalyzed great change.

Xavier Gramona: Xavier Gramona Sande was born in 1959 into a family of farmers and winemakers in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, in the Penedès. Xavier was the initiator of a major paradigm shift in Cava, which before his entering was made just for consuming at a young age: He wanted to prove that the best wines could be aged on their lees for a long period of time and achieve a place amongst the greatest wines in the world. Thus, it was a proud moment when in February 2019 when Gramona and eight other wineries announced their decision to secede from the Cava DO and create a new designation known as Corpinnat.

Jean-Pierre Fleury: The pioneer of biodynamic production in Champagne passed away aged 76. While he originally wanted to become ad astronomer, he took over the family vineyard in 1970. In 1989 he became the first to apply biodynamic practices in Champagne. Since then his stubbornness have inspired many and 3000ha of vineyards in Champagne are today cultivated in accordance with organic or biodynamic principles. Marquis Alexandre de Lur Saluces: From 1968-1999 he was the managing director at the legendary Château d’Yquem. He was outspoken in his disap-

proval of the family’s sale to LVMH as well as the increasing focus on dry white wines being made in Sauternes. To his death at age 89, he championed Sauternes in the traditional sweet style: "Botrytis is a miracle that must be respected. It is a wonderful alchemy."

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VISION FOR KVALITET OG NYDELSE Høj kompetence og erfaring siden 1979 ligger bag Adriats spændende sortiment, der omfatter vine fra vingårde i hele Italien. Flere hører til blandt verdens førende producenter, andre er på vej, og nogle er stadig ukendte. Alle er de omhyggeligt udvalgt med samme store kærlighed til vinen.

www.adriatvinimport.dk

Adriat Vinimport as 56

I TA L I E N S K E K VA L I T E T S V I N E

VI HAR FLERE SPÆNDENDE ØKO-VINE FRA ALTOLANDON I SORTIMENTET.

SPANIENS ENESTE ICE WINE Altolandons unikke Ice Wine er lavet på 100% Petit Manseng-druer, som først høstes i januar, hvor temperaturen har været under 5 minusgrader. Druerne er organisk dyrkede på Altolandons vinmarker i ca. 1.000 meters højde Det er selvsagt ikke hvert år, temperaturen når så langt ned, og derfor er det heller ikke hvert år, denne Ice Wine kan laves. Andre spanske producenter fryser druerne efter høst, men Altolandon ønsker kun at gøre det på ægte manér. Det skal gøres ærligt og på naturens præmisser, siger winemakeren Rosália.

ROSALÍA LAVER ÆRLIGE VINE FRA DET KØLIGE CUENCA-OMRÅDE Ca. 1.000 meter over havets overflade, i den lille kommune Landete, møder vi Rosalía og hendes vingård Altolandon. Vingården er ikke bare en vingård for hende, men et livsværk og en livsstil. Her står hun næsten for alt selv - lige fra arbejdet i vinmarkerne og kælderen til designet af vinenes labels, som hun selv har malet. Filosofien er at lave økologiske kvalitetsvine, som udtrykker druernes karakteriska så rent som muligt - derfor er vinene så tæt på naturvine, som man kan komme.

VEST Per Christiansen 40 50 41 25

VEST Rico Jørgensen 40 50 41 14

ET AF SPANIENS ALLERKØLIGSTE VINOMRÅDER. Højden, det kolde klima og den magre jord resulterer i helt specielle vine med deres helt egen personlighed. De er alle forskellige, da druesorterne er forskellige, men fælles for alle vinene er, at de bevarer friskhed, frugt og mineralitet fra Altolandons terroir. Hos Altolandon opnår druerne en høj grad af perfektion, og resultatet er vine med deres helt egen personlighed... Og et strejf af Rosalías ægte passion.

VEST Martin Holm Kodahl 40 50 41 66 57

ØST Thomas Kyhl Hansen 61 44 25 54

The Danish team’s proposal woos the jury at Copa Jerez Forum & Competition 2023 05 O C TO B E R 2023

Chef Allan Schultz and sommelier Alexander Berntsen, representatives of the Parsley Salon restaurant in Hellerup, Denmark, wooed the jury with their nuanced proposal to win the 10th Copa Jerez International Final. Jerez de la Frontera, 4th October 2023 – Copa Jerez Forum

& Competition 2023, the largest international gathering that brings together Sherry Wines and avant-garde cuisine, organised by the Consejo Regulador for DO Jerex–Xérès– Sherry and DO Manzanilla in collaboration with Fedejerez, concluded with the awards ceremony.

After the excitement of the Copa Jerez International Final held on October 3rd, it was announced that the winning team was from Denmark, formed by chef Allan Schultz and sommelier Alexander Berntsen, representatives of the Parsley Salon restaurant in Hellerup.

The Copa Jerez 2023 winners stated: ‘It’s been a few months of hard work, we make a very good team, we were completely focused on the competition and were going all out, we wanted to win this competition. The presentation before the jury was not easy, but if there was one thing we knew for sure, it was that we had to express our way of working at

home, to trust in our creations and decisions, to show that Sherry plays a very important role in our restaurant’. The undisputed stars of this edition declared themselves in love with Sherry Wines and stated that their relationship has been strengthened even more during this gastronomic adventure. They added: ‘The key points of this competition are to conti-

nue to discover these wines at source and to compete where they are made. Copa Jerez cannot be envisioned in any other way’. The winning menu paired with Sherry Wines presented by the Danish team that won over the competition’s jury was as follows:

S TA RT E R Poached prawns seasoned with beurre blanc vinegar and marinated rye bread, green celery, sea lettuce and sisho, paired with Manzanilla Soluqua from Bodegas Barón.

•

Main: poached and flam aged for two weeks, stu

MAIN Poached and flambéed quail, dry-aged for two weeks, stuffed with veal sweetbreads, with a quail liver, bone, spices and caramelised garlic sauce, and pickled chestnuts, candied kumquats and orange, paired with an Oloroso from Bodega Rey Fernando Castilla.

•

Dessert: Ice cr caramelised rip

D E S S E RT Ice cream served over caramelised ripe figs and brown butter, with peanut praline and sea salt, paired with a 20year old Pedro Ximénez from Bodegas Tradición.

’I have known about Sherry Wines since I was a child, my great-grandm 61

’I have known about Sherry Wines since I was a child, my great-grandmother used to serve them at family meals, they give me confidence because

they are closely related to my childhood’, commented Berntsen during the presentation of his paining suggestion to the jury on Tuesday at the Villa-

marta Theatre in Jerez. ‘We want to share our passion for pairing with these kinds of wines that have so many flavours and nuances’.

The X Copa Jerez International Final jury comprised six internationally renowned experts: Jancis

The X Copa Jerez InternatioOn the jury’s choice of the Daterised by a great progression Robinson (Master of Wine, wine nish writer andascritic), Almudena (Master of Wine and nal Final jury comprised six inteam the winner, Jan- Alberca and was complemented by a ternationally renowned expercis Robinson stated that ‘the fantastic choice of wines, all of winemaker), Melania Bellesini (sommelier at The Fat Duck***), Pascaline Lepeltier (writer and ts: Jancis Robinson (Master of proposal stood out for the them with a story to tell. Wine,Sommelier wine writer critic), Best inand France 2018) and JosepofRoca precision the (sommelier cooking, theand co-owner of El Celler de Can Almudena Alberca (Master of apparent simplicity of dishes Roca***). Wine and winemaker), Melania in which no ingredient was Bellesini (sommelier at The Fat surplus to requirements, but in Duck***), Pascaline whole of each oneRobinson stated that ‘the proposal On the jury’s choice Lepeltier of the Danishwhich teamthe as the winner, Jancis (writer and Best Sommelier in made sense and which, of coustood out for the precision of the cooking, the apparent simplicity of dishes in which no ingredient France 2018) and Josep Roca rse, were delicious.’ The wine (sommelier co-owner of El but in writer alsothe noted thatof‘the sucwas surplusand to requirements, which whole each one made sense and which, of course, Celler de Can Roca***). cession of courses was charac-

were delicious.’ The wine writer also noted that ‘the succession of courses was characterised by a

great progression and was complemented by a fantastic choice of wines, all of them with a story to tell.

Other prizes awarded at the X Copa Jerez International Final were:

uli Soler Award for Best Sommelier: Gianluca di Taranto, A Cook & GTD Resta Other prizes awarded at the X Copa Jerez International Final were:

Juli Soler Award for Best Sommelier: Gianluca di Taranto, A

Cook & GTD Restaurant, Belgium.

Other prizes awarded at the X Copa Jerez International Final were: Juli Soler Award for Best Sommelier: Gianluca di Taranto, A Cook & GTD Restaurant, Belgium.

Best Chef: Allan Schultz, Parsley Salon Restaurant, Denmark Best Chef: Allan Schultz, Parsley Salon Restaurant, Denmark

CHAMPAGNE

ROGER COULON DEPUIS 1806

”Roger Coulon remains one of the under-the-radar names in Champagne. I find a purity in these Champagnes that is hard to fully describe with words. It’s a sort of transparency - an expression of vintage, variety and place - that is both singular and compelling.” (Vinous.com)

HERI HODIE 1. CRU EXTRA BRUT (90 points Robertparker.com)

L’HOMMÉE 1. CRU EXTRA BRUT (95 points Vinous.com)

ESPRIT DE VRIGNY 1. CRU BRUT NATURE (93 points Vinous.com)

2013 MILLESIME BLANC DE NOIRS (95 points Robertparker.com)

CHAMPAGNE ROSÉLIE ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE (91 points Robertparker.com)

FØRES EKSKLUSIVT AF 64

SIGURD MÜLLER VINHANDEL A/S

98 18 50 99 • vin@smv.dk • www.smv.dk

Cuevas Jurado from Bodegas Lustau. Best Starter Pairing: Dinings SW3 restaurant, the UK. Cured red snapper, shiso emulsion, Yuzu koji vinaigrette, olive, shallot and pink peppercorns paired with Manzanilla Pasada almacenista Cuevas Jurado from Bodegas Lustau.

paired with Oloroso Gutiérrez Colosía. Best Main Course Pairing: Vigor* restaurant, the Netherlands. Sweetbread, eel and Vigor* ‘wasabi’ paired with Oloroso Gutiérrez Colosía.

paired with Cream 79 “Bota NO” from Equipo Navazos.

Best Dessert Pairing: Ambivium restaurant, Spain. Fermented cacao, hazelnuts and tonka beans paired with Cream 79 “Bota NO” from Equipo Navazos.

Creative Pairing: brothers Daniele and Gabrielle Tortomsi, chef and sommelier, respectively,

Most Creative Pairing: bromannshof* & Mandarin Oripes were the main ingredient thers Daniele& and Gabrielle ental Savoy Savoy restaurants restaurants in in Germany, of all the who courses. Ackermannshof* Mandarin Oriental presented the jury Tortomsi, chef and sommeliGermany, who presented the er, which respectively, at the Ackerjuryingredient with a menuof in all which menu in grapes were the main thegracourses.

Copa Jerez has once again Parsley Salon restaurant, stathe food and wine sectors have established itself as one of the ted that: ‘The competition has worked to make Sherry Wines most important gastronomic become a compulsory event evolve and position themselves Jerez has once again established itself as one of the most important gastronomic events on the events on the calendar, not on the gastronomic scene, and as the great wines they are’. national level we are proud to represent dar, not only onlyatat aa national levelbutbut also in very every corner of the planet. It is a space where also in every corner of the plaDenmark from Spain, a counnet. It is reaches a space where Shertry dimensions. where gastronomy a y Wine pairing unprecedented Theplays winners, representatives of ry Wine pairing reaches unvery important role. We have arsley Salon restaurant, statedThe that: ‘The has become a compulsory event on the precedented dimensions. noticedcompetition a great evolution in winners, representatives of the the competition and also how

nomic scene, and we are very proud to represent Denmark from Spain, a country where

nomy plays a very important role. We have noticed a great evolution in the competition and 68

ow the food and wine sectors have worked to make Sherry Wines evolve and position

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