Sommerlier - Winter 2024

Historic win in Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa & Middle East

In November Serbia hosted the tri-annual international competition of Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa and Middle East. In an exciting finale featuring a historic two Baltic countries, the wine world could witness three supreme, seasoned and very different sommeliers compete for the crown. We congratulate all candidates, and in particular Lithuanian bronze winner Martynas Pravilonis, French silver medalist Pascaline Lepeltier and Mikk Parre for bringing the trophy to Estonia for the first time!

See the magnificent finale for yourself here:

(128) Final of the ASI Contest Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa and Middle East 2024 - YouTube

Look forward - Soon you will be able to read a feature for deeper insight into the week of competition on the website of Danish Sommelier Association!

IMPRINT:

Sommelier #4 2024 27.Year

Deadline for next issue: THE MAGAZINE IS MOVING TO A BLOG - see more on the website Dansk Sommelier Forening |

Contact for blog: ronja@subrosa.wine

Editor in chief: Nina Højgaard Jensen / Nhj@sommelier.dk

Layout og art director: Morten Nybæk

Issuer: Dansk Sommelier Forening

PRACTICAL INFO

SOMMELIER is published four times annually and sent to members and friends of the Danish Sommelier Association. The magazine is run by volunteer work. All profit goes to education, competitions and professional events. As a private person you can support the association with 700 dkk/year by becoming “Friend of Danish Sommelier Association”. Apart from working to improve the Danish sommeliers, you will then receive a diploma.

For membership contact: Heine René Egelund he@sommelier.dk - all enquiries in realtion to change of address, contingent and invoices are kindly asked addresses to Heine Egelund as well.

Ads and anything in that relation: Bonnie Reinwald Mail: br@sommelier.dk

We ask kindly that invitations to tastings, travels etc. are directed to Webmaster and Board member of DSF Ronja Gustavsson at ronja@subrosa.wine

WRITE FOR THE BLOG

You are welcome to contribute to the content of our blog. For contributions or questions in that regard, contact Webmaster and Board member of DSF Ronja Gustavsson at ronja@subrosa.wine

BOARD OF DANISH SOMMELIER ASSOCIATION:

PRESIDENT: Christian Aarø ca@sommelier.dk

VICE PRESIDENT: Tim Vollerslev tv@sommelier.dk

TREASURER: Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk

SPONSER MANAGER: Bonnie Reinwald bonnie@buttandbons.com

RESPONSIBLE FOR TASTINGS:

- Copenhagen - Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

- Fyn - Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk

- Jylland - Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

COMPETITIONS & ENTRANCE EXAMINATIONS: Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

TRAVELS:

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen & Kim Thygesen ctj@sommelier.dk & kt@sommelier.dk

NEW LETTERS & COMMUNICATION:

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

FACEBOOK & WEBMASTER: Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

Ronja Gustavsson ronja@subrosa.wine

SECRETARY:

Christian Høj-Jørgensen chj@sommelier.dk

Abbaye de Lérins er et historisk kloster beliggende på Île SaintHonorat, en lille ø i Cannes-bugten, ud for den franske riviera. Klosteret blev grundlagt i det 5. århundrede af Saint Honoratus og har gennem årene spillet en betydelig rolle i religiøst og kulturelt liv.

En bemærkelsesværdig del af Abbaye de Lérins er dets tradition for at producere vine og likører. Munkene har siden slutningen af 1800-tallet produceret både likører og vine, og helt i Cistercienser munkeordenens ånd benyttes udelukkende håndarbejde. Munkene fortsætter med at følge Saint Benedicts regel, der lægger vægt på et liv med bøn, arbejde og fællesskab.

Blandt de berømte likører, produceret af Abbaye de Lérins, er Liqueur Lérina Verte, Liqueur Lérina Jaune og Liqueur Mandarine. Lérina Verte og Lérina Jaune er lavet af en maceration af 44 forskellige planter og urter i alkohol. De udviser unikke og karakteristiske træk med en rig og kompleks smagsprofil.

Liqueur Lérina Verte, 50%, 50 cl.

Besidder intense aromaer af blomster, anis, mynte, timian og verbena. Intens og velafbalanceret smag. Blød og kompleks.

Liqueur Lérina Jaune, 43%, 50 cl.

Besidder intense og friske aromaer af vilde blomster, bark, citrusfrugter og kandiserede citroner. Rund og glat mundfornemmelse.

Liqueur Mandarine, 42%, 50 cl.

Besidder intense aromaer af mandarin, appelsinskal og kandiserede citrusfrugter. Cremet konsistens, afbalanceret og frugtig

Dear all,

Starting January 2025, we're moving from a magazine format to a blog to make our content more available, timely, and engaging for you, our members. The blog will allow for more ongoing and real-time updates and industry insights.

We’re also launching a new website, with Kim and Ronja taking on the roles of webmaster and editor.

Kim Thygesen:

And of course, all past magazines will still be available on the new site.

A big thank you to Nina for her outstanding work that set the bar so high! We're excited - and honestly, a bit nervous - but we’ll do our best to keep up the great work.

MEET THE TEAM

Ronja Bo Gustavsson:

I have the restaurant business in my heart. I started in 1994 and tried to escape from it a couple of times, fortunately with no luck. I’ll be the one that tries to take a personal point of view and will push you guys to make some stories. I am running Restaurant Den Gamle Stald, located close to Randers. I’m a workaholic who loves nature, food, and wines in good company.

I'm a mix of the restaurant industry, the tech world, and being Swedish - so bear with my twist on Danish! Jokes aside, I'll be writing in English to spare you from my Swed-Danish writing, and I think we'll all be happier for it! I started as a bartender in 1998 and have worked in London and Stockholm in private venues, as well as managing a cocktail bar and restaurants.

Now, I’m a B2B private sommelier. I bring curiosity, creative drive, and attention to detail, which I hope comes through in my articles.

And one more thing: we’ll be starting a series of behind-the-scenes articles about DSF members to showcase your day-to-day activities and gain better insights into how you all work. We’re really looking forward to this!

Best, Kim and Ronja

Der tages forbehold for trykfejl, årgangsskifte og udsolgte varer.

NYHED HOS OTTO SUENSON

HAHN FAMILY WINES

Hahn Family Wines’ historie er et episk eventyr om transformation, vision og passion for vin. Grundlagt af det eventyrlystne ægtepar Nicolaus ”Nicky” og Gaby Hahn.

I 1980 erhvervede Nicky Hahn vinmarker i Santa Lucia Highlands, Californien, primært beplantet med Cabernet Sauvignon. Imidlertid indså han hurtigt, at terroirets unikke, kølige klima var ideelt for Bourgogne-sorterne Pinot Noir og Chardonnay. Denne indsigt ledte til en dristig beslutning om at omlægge vinmarkerne, en risikabel manøvre, der ultimativt resulterede i exceptionelle vine og bekræftede overfor alle kritikerne, at Nicky Hahn var et vinøst geni.

Nicky spillede en nøglerolle i anerkendelsen af Santa Lucia Highlands som en American Viticultural Area (AVA), og hans visionære tilgang og ihærdighed har efterladt et uudsletteligt præg på regionen og vinindustrien.

KOM DIREKTE TIL HAHN FAMILY WINES

Scan QR-koden med din smartphone og kom direkte til vinen.

OTTO SUENSON OG MERE VIN FOR PENGENE

Hos Otto Suenson har vi fokus på kvaliteten af den enkelte vin, og uanset prislejet går vi efter at tilbyde vine i den gode ende af spektret - der hvor du får mest kvalitet for pengene. Vi tilbyder dig både vine fra de klassiske områder og nogle af de nye og mere fremadstormende. Du kan læse mere om geniale Nicky Hahn og Hahn Family Wines på ottosuenson.dk eller komme forbi en af vores butikker i København, Roskilde eller Hørsholm og få en snak med vores dedikerede medarbejdere. Vi ses hos Otto Suenson.

Founders Chardonnay

udsalg 159 kr.

Founders Pinot Noir

Founders Cabernet Sauvignon

2021 Châteauneuf du Pape

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe

Forrygende og anmelderrost Châteauneuf-du-Pape fra den nye og elegante 2021-årgang. Endnu et mesterværk fra Daniel og Frédéric Brunier.

Denne Châteauneuf-du-Pape er helt sin egen. Den er elegant, smidig og blød i teksturen, mens en myriade af røde skovbær,flankeret af krydrede og urtede toner, som strømmer op af glasset.

95 point James Suckling

93-95 point Vinous

94 point Wine Spectator

92-94 point Robert Parker

AFTER EXTREME HEAT AND COLD,

COME UNBEATABLE MOMENTS

THIS IS RIBERA DEL DUERO. WHOEVER HAS TRIED IT, KNOWS IT.

ASI Bootcamp 2024

BY: MICHAEL RØNNE SØRENSEN

WHAT IS ASI BOOTCAMP?

First of all, it is an opportunity and a memory of a lifetime, that I would encourage every Sommelier to grab if it presents itself.

I didn’t know this at the time I got nominated, but I’d watched enough ASI Social Media coverage of previous bootcamps, since it launched in 2021, for expectations to be those of a child on Christmas eve; just waiting to get the biggest gift unwrapped!

AND WHAT DID THE UNWRAPPED GIFT CONTAIN?

Wine, and a lot of it. We are Sommeliers after all! We had masterclasses with ambitious people representing Moldova, Saké, Spain, South Africa, Portugal, Medoc - just to name a few. All with plenty of samples to introduce you to the subject,

all while they were sharing their knowledge. We got to taste cask samples of Vin de Constance 2023 that hadn’t even been blended yet! Have you tasted Grahams Single Vintage Tawny 1961? Well, we did! Did you know that Portugal had a 4th fortified wine? Well now I do, and it tastes amazing! We even tasted wine from Moldova created by AI!

We had 5 blind tasting sessions of 50 minutes, with some of the world’s best people in the fieldI’m talking MW’s and world champions, taking us through flight subjects like sweet wine, sparkling wine, red wines and everything in between.

All in all, if you include the generous sponsors handing out samples at every dinner, we tasted between 30-50 wines a day. Hard work I’ll tell you!

Knowledge. Now, close your eyes and imagine this: Not one, but two World Champions, Masters of Wines along with coaches of national sommelier competition teams, giving masterclasses on subjects like building a wine list, sparkling wine service, decanting, competition scenarios, study

plans and more. Now imagine you sitting, listening along with 50 other Sommeliers from around the world on every level, eager to listen to your experiences, how you do in your country and eager to share their knowledge on the subject.

THIS IS ASI BOOTCAMP

Now it’s not all about wine and service. We had a session about the importance of mental health and how to support the psychology of a Sommelier.

There was an expert giving us tools on how to be better at “branding” ourself and a session about the importance of drinking in moderation and how important a role we as a Sommelier has in this regard.

Social networking. My Instagram and Facebook has been glowing red from all the new relations I’ve made! 50 people, from around the globe, all discussing hospitality and speaking one same language: Wine! One guy (Ryoga) from Japan is traveling to Copenhagen to work, so I’ll be sure to grab a cup of coffee with him. He even shared one of the world most rare Sake with me. And if I ever find myself in the Czeck Republic, I now know a Sommelier, who has her own vineyard with her husband besides work. These relations are not to be underestimated, and you cannot put a prize on that!

Dinners. Oh the dinners were amazing! Now, I’ve already mentioned all the sponsors bringing wine, standing ready to hand you samples all evening long, so I wont dwell more on this. But it was amazing!

The first evening, the dinner was at the hotel where we were staying. There was a man slicing cured Spanish ham, with a precision indicating that he had done nothing else the past 30 years.

There was a great opening speech by the ASI Vicepresident and the president of the Spanish assiociation, along with some Spanish folk music.

Ever been on a consulate? The second evenings dinner found place on the Portuguese consulate in

Sevilla. I just want to point out how beautiful the buildings in Sevilla are!

We even had dinner on the third evening in a Sherry Bodega, where the Mayor of Sevilla attended to give a speech to us!

Now, I could go on, but it will suffice to say, that ASI Bootcamp is an experience that I would encourage everyone to apply for. If you’re lucky enough, you get to go, and you’ll experience motivation, dedication and support on a scale hard to achieve otherwise.

This will forever be a memory I will cherish, and use whenever I need encouragement or confirmation on the path that I’ve chosen.

Michael Rønne Sørensen ASI Bootcamp Spain 2024

Introducing 2 new vintages

Quinta de Vargellas is pre-eminent among the wine estates of the Douro. Located in the wild and hilly eastern reaches of the Douro valley, it has been prized as a source of the finest Port wines since the 1820s. Today it ranks among the great vineyards of the world.

First Time Experiencing The Nordic Championship

BY: MICHAEL RØNNE SØRENSEN

When I got home from Oslo this year, my spouse asked me to describe how my trip was. I was finding it hard to describe, as I was still processing all that had happened in just a weekend. So, she asked me to just pick one word, and i chose “amazing”. But that doesn’t really do it justice. Let’s backtrack a bit and I’ll explain why!

FIRST TIMES

2024 has been a crazy year for me. Being in the finals in the Danish Championship, qualifying for the Nordic Championship and with a trip to Spain, attending the ASI Bootcamp in between, I couldn’t have dreamt of a better setup. All happening the first time ever competing, imagine the boost of confidence and motivation level this brings you.

The competition took over 2, long days, so be mentally prepared for that. The first half of day one consists of tasks I’ve (sort of) seen before: 3 wines, all white, 2 spirits (you assume) and a downward facing papers. I prepare my mind for a written blind tasting and spirits identification. Trained it before, done it before, I can do this! The go is given, the papers are turned and here the fun begins, because now comes the unexpected: There is 3 papers, and only the one for identification of spirits turns out to be as expected. The wine identification had a twist: Name only the Grape, Vintage and Country. Sounds easy at first, but

then you read the last box: “Name the common denominator”. That twist got my brain working in overdrive and can easily lead you astray in your conclusions.

The last page was one of my favorite tasks, “Winelist Errors”. It is so hard to prepare for, you just look at a list of wines listed with vintage, producer, name, grape, country, appellation. You must know the wines to have a chance at identifying the errors, so it is difficult to prepare for and requires a huge producer knowledge. I usually see this task on the stage, so I was not prepared to face it this early. After the first 3 task papers, we are handed another stack of papers. Now are facing 60 questions to be answered within 60 minutes. Sounds easy right? I am no novice within wine. I can write Vinakademiet, WSET 3, CMS Certified, Spanish and French Wine Scholar on my CV. Yet, I am baffled by the level of the questions. Never have I faced a paper with so many questions that I dodn’t know the answer to. Fondly I see the question “Name the sub appellations of Rias Baixas” an think “Finally, a question I know by heart!”… and are were gone. Just gone. I can name them in an instant today, it’s a Flashcard that Anki deems easy for me. Yet, in this moment, I black out. A proof of how the pressure you put on yourself in these situations really impacts your brain capacity.

Phew, first half done. Time for some coffee and some food. Now the fun really starts, because now you get to discuss your answers with the other competitors. Do you agree? If not, who has the right answer? With the phones were taken away, there is no way of knowing 100%. My best advice here is to just let it go and move on!

SURPRISING SECOND ROUND

The second half of day 1 is where I find the Nordic Championship most different from the Danish Championship; practical tasks, that are not on the stage. A great way to build on your expertise regardless of how far you make it in the competition.

So, the practical part is divided into two separate rooms. The waiting takes place in soft chair just outside the first room. In my mind I go over the practical tasks I have prepared; decanting, Champagne service, wine service, food pairing, cocktails etc. ... The door opens, and I enter the room.

There are judges sitting at a table, and on the table is…. 3 cups of tea leaves???? First task: Identify the teas, suggest brewing temperatures and brewing time.

Second Task: Suggest how you would run a tea program at a restaurant in front of the judges. No preparation time is given.

Third Task: A winelist of 10 pages and 4 minutes to suggest changes to the wine list and argue your case.

“You may now leave the room,” was said, and I have no idea how it went.

In the second room, judges sit at a table in a familiar setting.

In experience a dejavu - 3 cups, but this time something - I assume is black tea – is brewed into the cups. Next to the cups are 3 glasses of identical red cocktails.

First Task: Identify the 3 cups of tea, identify the cocktails and ingredients used.

Second Task: “Make me a cocktail” the judge inquires. Which one? You might ask. Luckily for me, I remember to ask the judge before I proceed or else I would have had no way of knowing.

Third Task: Serve a glass of red wine. I do. I ask if they would like a food recommendation. I make a couple of small errors, but other than that, I find this to be a more straight forward task. Later I learn that there in fact was two identical bottles of red wine with different temperatures – of course there had been a trap!

With the final tests of the day done, there is several hours before the results are revealed. In the meantime it is time for the social part of the event. L

THE FINAL CUT

The 3 finalist are disclosed. I don’t progress to the finals, so can enjoy a relaxed night. Not, joining for the first time and not advancing to the finals is of course somewhat disappointing, but it also comes with one important benefit: You get to watch all of the finalists perform and take a lot of notes on how people better than yo, do it. So place yourself on the front seats and make sure to watch closely!

To set the scene for the next part of the competition, I will describe the stage for you:

A big screen. A tall table all to the right, with a mis en place just behind and a wine fridge. In the middle of the stage: One table with two judges, one table with one judge, one table with 4 judges. First contestant is called onto the stage.

“The stage is your restaurant. For the first task, you have 6 minutes to give a full organoleptic description of the two wines placed on the table. When the time is up, you have 15 minutes, to complete the rest of the tasks. Listen carefully, for the tasks will only be said once. Your time starts now!” Okay, game on!

First task is straight forward, blind taste the wines. The shift into the next tasks, was not so straight forward, because you’re just told the time is up, when the 6 minutes have passed. Do you approach one of the tables? Do you calmly look at your res-

taurant to get an overview? Now the real fun begins!

First task is the table with one judge: “Please serve me a glass of sweet wine and recommend me some food to go with it” is the order. Straight forward, right? Well, suddenly, when you serve the wine and start recommending food she turns out to be diabetic!

Second task, the table with four judges: Decant and serve a magnum bottle of a specific red wine, explain the producer and answer if it is a good investment.

Third task, the table with two judges: This one has me going “wow…..”. The contestants are handed a 5 course menu, to which they should recommend a wine pairing. If they don’t ask the judges in regards to preferences, they will quickly learn that they want “only sparkling wine, and as many different countries and styles as possible”. Now if this doesn’t put you off track the judges have more tricks up their sleeves. In the middle of your suggestions, they might just prefer wines with no Pinot Meunier, no Rosé wines, no 100% Pinot Noir… You suggested a wine made with Saignée method? Well, they would suddenly prefer wines that weren’t.

Now the time’s almost up, but you still have one task to complete, and whether you have time or not, depends on how well you’ve fared until now.

Fourth task is back at the table with four judges: Recommend a different wine, in the same style as the magnum you served earlier.

Phew, done. Most, but not all, managed to finish all tasks on time.

Now, the above part of the stage is of course individual, and only one contestant is on stage at a time. The others are placed in a secluded location, so that they can neither see nor hear what’s going on beforehand.

The next part of the stage, takes place with all of the contestants on stage. For this part, the big

screen is included; pictures task.

A picture of a vineyards with a sea view shows, “Name the vineregion”.

A picture of a woman amongst vines shows, “Name the producer”.

A picture of a bottle of wine shows, “Name the inaugural vintage”.

And they have only a matter of seconds to write their answer on a whiteboard.

Now that it’s all over, the finalists can do nothing more, but wait for the results. I can only begin to imagine the feelings going through them! In what looks like a close race, Martin Mortensen from Sweden is finally crowned the winner! A big congratulations!

ON TOP OF THE COMPETITION

A lot of the article has been about the competition so far, and I would like to leave that part for a bit, before my personal conclusion to highlight what the trip to the Nordic Championship also had to offer.

Ketil and I arrived the day before, just to be sure we were well rested and prepared. We also had a chance to experience a small bit of the city. Oslo is really beautiful!

We had a dinner in the evening with all of the contestants and the organizers. These events are great for socializing, building your network and getting to know your colleagues from different countries. Even though you might not speak the same national language, you are after all the lingua franca of Wine and hospitality, and you get to exchange views on how to run a restaurant and a wine program as well as deepen your understanding of different markets. For me, it is inspiring and motivating to listen to all of the tales told by sometimes more experienced peers!

There was also the wine fair - oh the wine fair!

This part is something I always look forward to, and something you are at more liberty to enjoy if you don’t qualify for the finals. In two great halls of the hotel the event took place. There were stalls, wines and producers/retailers in great numbers! Ready to hand out samples, stories and business cards to all who took interest in them – a great place to discover something new. I myself found a producer of Franciacorta and thought to myself “I’ve never really gotten that deep into Franciacorta,” so I went there. Now I’m 8 different styles of Franciacorta samples, producer stories and deep, hands-on knowledge richer! If you’re leaving there thirsty, it’s your own fault! The wine fair was open to the public and the members of the sommelier association? I got to meet a lot of new acquaintances, not even associated with the competition! Network, network, network!

The evening after the finals, the great Championship Dinner was held. All members of the ASI organisation, sponsors and of course the contestants were welcome. I cannot emphasize enough, how great of an opportunity this is to meet new friends, colleagues and potential rivals in upcoming competitions.

Ketil, having competed a lot and having a huge network, was doing a great job of introducing me to new acquaintances. I had the great honor to sit at the table along with the director of Star Wine List and one of the Judges of Honor who is a Master Sommelier. Let’s just say I was star struck, and did not waste this opportunity, to get all the information i could from them.

THE TAKEAWAY

It’s time to end the article, so I would like to paint a bigger picture of my experience and what I’ve learned from this trip.

Compete. I cannot stress this enough – Just Do It!

The competitions will put your skills to the test, to the extremes, take you to the edge and above. If you compete, under the pressure from yourself and the judges, you will learn SO much in such a

short time. About yourself, about being a Sommelier, about people.

Expect the unexpected. Even if you have a vast knowledge and education, challenge the way you study. These competitions dig deep and so should you! You know all of the DOCG’s of Italy? Great! But remember that one DOC, that only uses one local, almost unknown grape! Remember tea, remember coffee. Even the non-alcoholic universe is expanding and is not to be underestimated! Get to know the countries local beers, spirits and traditions.

Even if you do not want to compete - which is totally okay! – join the events, join the dinners. The socializing aspect of these events is not to be underestimated! I learned so much, got motivated and inspired just by talking to people, and listening to how they worked!

And when you return to your own restaurant, to your own comfortable habitat, some things might even seem easier. Imagine having trained decanting, pouring even sizes, using a port thong, pairing obscure wine pairings, but everything under time pressure in an unfamiliar environment, now sud-

denly you can perform without the pressure, but the skills you honed will be sharper than ever! It is a great feeling! That is at least my experience.

I’m hooked, and you will see me compete, until I win. Why? Because I’ve learned so much, that I wouldn’t have if I hadn’t have had this goal in mind.

DOMAINE DE BOISSEYT A HISTORIC GEM IN THE NORTHERN RHÔNE

Nestled at the entrance of the Pilat Regional Park, the charming town of Chavanay is a gateway to some of the most revered vineyards in the northern Rhône. Here, among ancient vines and storied terroirs, lies Domaine de Boisseyt, a wine estate with a legacy dating back centuries.

First mentioned in 1343 as “Viniblio de Boissie”, the Domaine de Boisseyt is steeped in history, surviving wars, revolutions, and generations of winemakers. Since 1797, following the French Revolution, the same family has carefully tended these prized lands, passing down their viticultural heritage through six generations.

However, after two centuries in the same family, change was on the horizon. In 2017, after 30 years of managing the property, Agnes and Didier Chol made the difficult decision to sell, as their children had chosen different paths. This transition marked a turning point in the estate’s long history.

LEGACY OVER PROFIT

Faced with offers from Rhône heavyweights like Guigal and Chapoutier – vines of such pedigree

rarely come up for sale in the Côte Rôtie – the Chols made a deeply emotional decision. Rather than selling to one of the giants in the region, they chose to entrust their legacy to Romain Decelle and his then partner, Jean-Pierre Villa, a promising duo of ambitious winemakers with deep roots in the community (Villa grew up across from the Chols). It was a decision not driven by profit, but by the desire to see the estate’s soul preserved.

HONORING THE PAST, SHAPING THE FUTURE

Romain Decelle, already a respected figure in Burgundy, brought with him a wealth of expertise and a fresh perspective. With experience managing an estate in Roussillon, Romain was eager to take on the challenges of the northern Rhône’s legendary terroirs, determined to unlock their full potential. He carved out a vision for the estate’s future, and quickly started the conversion to organics (in the future potentially biodynamics) as well as building a new cellar.

Spanning 11 hectares, Domaine de Boisseyt’s vineyards offer a remarkable diversity of terroirs.

From the humble yet expressive Côtes du Rhône to the dramatic, steep slopes of Les Rivoires in Saint-Joseph, each plot tells its own story. Particularly noteworthy is the estate’s prized 0.5-hectare section of Côte Blonde in Côte Rôtie, where 90-year-old vines produce wines of exceptional finesse and depth.

Today, under the stewardship of Romain Decelle, Domaine de Boisseyt continues to honor its remarkable history while embracing a future of innovation and sustainability. As the vines thrive and the cellar evolves, the estate remains a beacon of the northern Rhône’s rich viticultural tradition.

er du på jagt efter god portvin, går du aldrig forkert i byen med graham’s.

»ingen jul uden graham’s« og i år er ingen undtagelse!

2000 Vintage Port

Graham’s, Douro, Portugal

Dyb farve med et let, mørkerødt skær. Duften er fyldt med mørke bær, grøntsager, tobak og sød lakrids. Smagen er elegant med en rig sødmefuld frugt, der afbalanceres af den fine syre.

Danish wine show 2024

SVENSTRUP GODS, 13TH OF AUGUST

BY: MICHAEL RØNNE SØRENSEN

The story about Danish wine is a short one. Roughly told it begins in 1993, when the pioneer Michael Gundersen plants his first Rondo vine in Avedøre, where he six years later, in 1999, starts Dansk Vincenter. The year after, 1st of august 2000, Denmark is granted the permission to grow winegrapes for commercial wine production on 99 hectares by The European Union, whereby the story about Danish wine sees the light on day.

GROWING AND SHOWING

Today we grow wine on a little less than 200 hectares with approximately 400.000 vines and a production of 400.000 bottles a year. There are around 1.500 winegrowers in the country of which 150 are commercial, and the number is rising significantly these years, where the Danish climate unfortunately is getting more and more suitable for winegrowing.

While the first 10-15 years of our wine history were marked by a lot of difficult attempts of adaptation, the last decade has shown the big potential our country has for producing beautiful, dry white wines especially made on the Solaris grape.

But a young wine country needs good reviews and documentation to get going hence, Danish Wine Show came into existence in 1999.

Roughly told the wine show is divided into two parts. The first, where professional tasters rate the submitted wines, and the second, where the Danish producers at the 2nd Saturday of September, presents their wines, and the prize medals from the tasting are handed out. In the beginning everything was new, and there were some scepticisms connected with the idea of growing, producing and not least selling Danish wine. As our vice president of the Danish Sommelier Association, Tim Vollerslev, very accurately puts it, when he welcomes us tasters to the 25th edition of Danish Wine Shop at Svenstrup Gods; in 1999 he was asked by the Danish Food Agency to supervise the wine show to assess whether it was sound to drink Danish wine at all!

Here 25 years later we can with some certainty answer affirmative to this question, which I will get back to later.

The starting point for this article is precisely the rating part of the Danish Wine Show 2024, as I in the early summer was asked if I would participate as judge, which I naturally couldn’t refuse. So, I found a car, and very early in the morning of Tuesday the 13th of august left the city of smiles and ventured towards Svenstrup Gods on central Sjælland between Ringsted and Køge.

INTO THE UNKNOWN

To be honest, I don’t quite know what I am getting into, so the expectations in the car are high when I with great pace pass first Vejlefjordbroen, then Lillebæltsbroen, speed over my Funen home region and fly over Storebæltsbroen, before I shortly after leave the E20 highway and turn northeast towards Borup. It doesn’t take long before the modern, industrial world is gone and another, almost magical country idyll takes over. The well-known city names of Slagelse, Sorø, Ringsted and Roskilde have been replaced with Benløse, Valsømagle, Ortved, Egemose, Borup and Svenstrup, and as I, in a more moderate pace, drive through a wonderful and amazingly quite forest. Turning into

the gravel driveway at Borupvej 94, I am met by an enormous estate with small lakes and endless, vast, green fields of grass.

A bit speechless I park the car at the estate’s parking lot and step out into a deafening silence. The pleasant calmness so omnipresent that I forget for a moment where I am. I just take in the impressions. Slowly reality insistingly returns, and I see a small, laminated sign at one of the side buildings of the estate that says ‘Danish wine show’. I walk towards it and am welcomed by Søren Rasmussen, board member of the union Foreningen Dansk Vin, that arranges the wine show.

TIME TO TASTE

Together with 22 other judges and Tim as head judge, we are, after a bite of breakfast, officially welcomed at 9.30am and divided into eight tasting tables with three judges per table. There are 379 wines to rate, whereof 323 of them are grape wine, 42 fruit wine and 14 meads.

I am on team number 7 together with Lars Byager and Palle Broløkke Bøgely, both of them haver, unlike me, participated before. We are assigned to rate 47 wines of which there are 15 whites and 32 rosés. A very fine task, I think, and look at some of the other tables that has gotten a bit more difficult assignments in form of strictly red or sparkling wine.

All the tables start with the tasting of a white and red wine from last year that received Special Distinction, which is the category just below Bronze, just to set the assessment. And then we go. Alle sets consist of four wines and are rated from the categories Appearance, Smell, Taste and Overall Impression. Together there are 20 points to give. If a wine receives 10 points, it is a ‘Good wine’, 11,5 points gives ‘Special Distinction’, 13 points is Bronze, 14,5 points is Silver and does a wine receive 16 points, it is awarded with Gold.

The glasses are filled, the computers set at the rat-

ing schedule: Here we go. Our team starts with four white wines, whereas three of them are made from Solaris, and unlike our expectations all of them are completely different and doesn’t bear the obvious distinctions of the grape’s signature signs of elderflower aroma and fresh fruit. The rule is, that if the three judges are more than 2 points from each other, Tim are called at the table to find a solution. Luckily, Lars, Palle and I agree on most of the 47 wines, which however doesn’t mean, that there isn’t need to call for help a couple of times, as we not only receive a fortified wine, which can’t be rated as a dry white wine, but also a wine that is corked.

Of the 15 white wines, 14 of them are made from Solaris, and there are awarded five with Special Distinction, three Bronze and two Silver. No Gold in this round, but not bad at all. The rosé part, however, is another story, and it’s obvious to us, that it is dry white wines, we as a wine country must focus on.

Of the 32 rosés three are awarded with Special Distinction and two with Bronze, and the best rosés we taste are those, that not necessarily ex-

cels with a beautiful aroma and good depths, but rather those who shows harmony and balance in the taste.

At 3.30 pm we are through all the wines at the table. With the exception of a lunch break, we have tasted and rated wines in almost five hours but is has been a very exciting experience.

Level-wise I am neither disappointed nor uplifted. Among the white wines there were some good ones, but I think that the team with strictly white wines has tasted better wines than us. Maybe even a couple that has been awarded with Gold. However, I also have the feeling that some of the best producers in the country this year didn’t turn in their wines for evaluation which of course can have different reasons.

But all in all, an instructive and exciting day and a very well organised event with a good atmosphere and a great expectation for the future of Danish winegrowing. An expectation, I can only join, and that hopefully contributes to the reinforcement of Danish winegrowing in the coming years.

Kenny Jess Brandt 23. september 2024

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AI Vineyard Management

What does AI mean for #SustainableWine?

California’s reputation at the forefront of modern tech is well-established, as is its renown as a leader in sustainable winegrowing. Bring the two together and you have an exciting new frontier for the world of wine. Here are 2 examples...

1. FARMING, IT’S ELECTRIC!

Just a short drive from Silicon Valley, the fifth-generation winegrowers at @wente in Livermore Valley are trialling out the first fully-electric, self-driving smart tractor. Dubbed “the Tesla of tractors” and co-founded by Robert Mondavi’s grandson Carlo, @monarch_tractor aims to drive more sustainable winegrowing by reducing carbon emissions and moving away from harmful pesticides by mechanizing mowing.

“We want to improve our sustainability and we think that autonomy and electric is the way of the future,” says Niki Wente, director of vineyard operations at Wente. “Carlo’s big vision is that they would someday be the vineyard manager’s best assistant, and I’m really excited about that thought process, because we are getting better at farming.”

2. SAVING WATER WITH SENSORS

Meanwhile, over in the Santa Cruz Mountains, one of California’s most iconic wine estates, @ ridgevineyards, is ahead of the curve when it comes to using tech to farm more sustainably. At Monte Bello, 100% of the water supply is sourced from its own wells, and waste water is cleaned and recycled. As every drop is precious, they have used sap sensors since 2007 to measure transpiration, or water loss, from the vines, so they know exactly when to water and how much.

“It enables us to use water more efficiently,” says Kyle Theriot, director of vineyard operations at Monte Bello. “And we do not have a lot of water here.” Although Ridge Vineyards is famous for dry-farmed old vines, its younger plants still need support, which is why this water-saving technology is essential for a sustainable future.

Danish wine show 2024

The award ceremony

MESSE C, FREDERICIA, 21ST OF SEPTEMBER

It is Saturday the 21st of September and the sun is shining from an almost cloudless sky. The thermometer in my parents Fiat Panda shows 20° Celsius as I drive over Lillebæltsbroen and take the exit towards Fredericia. Like in 2018 we are experiencing an unusually warm and sunny late summer, and all winegrowers in the country are looking forward to the harvest, which for some has already begun.

HOMEBOUND

I have taken a detour from Svendborg – where my family and I are visiting my parents in my childhood home – to participate in the second part of the Danish wine show 2024 in form of the open tasting and the award ceremony no less. Six weeks ago, I was part of the team of judges that rated the 379 submitted wines, and now it is time to get acquainted with the people behind the wines.

The show is taking place in Messe C, Fredericia. As I enter the big building, I’m welcomed, receive my nameplate, it strikes me how professional and well organised an event I have walked into. In my

thoughts I had imagined something more like a big, green lawn in the countryside where each producer has been given a table to place their wines on. A little naive maybe, however truthful.

That is evidently not the case here: I enter a giant room packed with Danish wine producers who have all brought their wines. There are 108 producers present in total, divided into seven long tables of which the first four are hobby growers and the last three the commercial growers.

I smile, find a tasting glass and take a deep breath before I venture into the well organised jungle of Danish wine. The first stand I go to emerges as quite a fun experience for me, as it is a producer from the very small village I was raised in. Tved Vingaard. We have simply come so far as a wine country in Denmark, that there now is a small winegrower in almost every little village! Amazing.

It wasn’t until the day before that I’d looked through the program and discovered that indeed

there was a wine producer in Tved! I am still a little speechless when I go to greet Henrik Dyrebjerg who owns the farm. Firstly, I taste his rosé and immediately look up at him and say that I tasted the very same wine at the rating, even though we naturally tasted all the wines in blind. And quite right, a couple of weeks later I find out that his rosé was one of the wines my tables of judges was served the 13th of august at Svenstrup Gods. Luckily it tastes good - then as well as now. I bid him farewell and continue to the next of many many tables that, even for an experienced sommelier as myself, seems a tad unmanageable.

HOPE AHEAD

The next couple of hours I taste everything I come close to, from hobby to commercial growers, and yet again I am surprised by the relatively high quality I meet at several tables. Of course, not all the wines are well made, there are still flaws in some of the bottles, volatile acids, obvious bacterial occurrences and smaller and bigger mistakes. We are a young wine country after all. But overall, quite impressive. I am also surprised by the fact

that the difference in quality between the hobby and commercial growers are smaller than expected. The commercial growers makes cleaner wines, but the fluid itself, the pure must that has become wine, is sensed the same way in all the wines.

It would be too extensive to list all the good wines I tasted, but especially two producers caught my attention. Ørby Vingaard from Helsinge, that makes two very beautiful and linear organic wines on Solaris, and Gilleleje Wines, who’s Frühburgunder tastes amazing. There is definitely hope for the future of Danish wine.

When it is time for the award ceremony, I find myself a chair to rest my legs while the different categories are awarded. As mentioned, there are 379 submitted wines from the 108 producers. 246 grape wines in the young class, 77 grape wines in the older class, 28 fruit wines, 14 ciders and 14 mjød. This year there are distributed a record number of medals, no more than 85, of which 6 is Gold, 22 Silver and 57 Bronze as well as 71 with Special distinction.

REFLECTIONS

After the presentation the tasting continues, but I have tasted enough for today. Instead, I remain seated, take a look over the many stands and think about what I have just experienced. Despite the great attendance and the countless well-made wines, it is still striking how many of the best producers in the country that isn’t present.

I have tasted a lot of Danish wine during the last 10 years, and I have gradually gotten to known the elite in this country even though new and hopefully producers keep popping up. Which is the same reason why I would have liked to see Ørnberg, Stokkebye, Vejrhøj, Barfod, Njord, Guldbæk and the other top producers participate. But maybe that isn’t the purpose of Danish wine show... All of the mentioned producers participated in the earlier years, and the many walls in their wineries and tasting rooms are undoubtedly decorated with a lot of diplomas and medals from previous wine shows.

Maybe the justification for existence for the Danish wine show is rather – through unity, sharing of experiences, encouragement and awards, that can be used for promotion – to help Danish wine producers being brought out into the light. To give them tools to improve, until they one day can stand in their own feet. It has worked for others, and today they are consolidating Denmark as a serious and quality aware wine country. A country that at this point already are able to measure themselves in the same league with the better white wines of other, more traditional countries. And what does that not mean for the future? Believe me when I say, that in the coming years, the focus on Danish wine is going to increase more and more. Not only from the many Danish wine drinkers, but also from foreign investors and producers. We are entering a very exciting period, the spirit of the producers is high and the wine in the glass is only getting better and better.

Kenny Jess Brandt 11. november 2024

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Vejrhøj Vingård

FÅREVEJLE, SJÆLLAND

BY: KENNY JESS BRANDT

FACTS:

NIELS AND NINA FINK

2,5 HECTARES – 10.000 VINES – 20.000 BOTTLES

ORGANIC CERTIFIED 2020

FIRST VINTAGE IN 2014

The sun is shining from a clear, blue sky, we are in the beginning of august and my family and I are enjoying the last bit of our vacation in our summerhouse at Sjællands Odde, where we since 2012 also have had a small vineyard. Maybe that is why I the last 10-15 years have been fascinated by Danish winegrowing and with great interest have followed he development in Denmark from a well-meaning hobby wine country to what we today with full respect can call a serious wine producing country in Europe.

This change, however, hasn’t come without hard work and a lot of investment in time, equipment and learning as well as outside help. As so many new wine countries we are standing on the shoulders of more traditional and experienced nations, and in our case, Germany has been the great catalyst for the progress under our beautiful, Danish skies. Not only in form of the cultivation of new sorts that fit our climate, but also more specifically in one person, that has done more for Danish winegrowing than any other individual

from abroad. The name is Jens Heinemeyer; winegrower, oenologist, consultant and the owner of Solveigs in Rheingau. There are no serious Danish wine producer, that has started making wine in the years from 2005 to 2020, that in some way hasn’t been assisted by Jens. It is as simple as that.

Therefore, it isn’t any coincidence that we see his name, when my wife and I has been invited to Vejrhøj Vingård to taste their new vintages. When we arrive to their very idyllic country house in beautiful Fårevejle, Niels is standing in the cellar putting labels on Styver 2023. “I just had a short break” he says and smiles at us, before he leaves the machine and goes up to greet us.

FIRST GENERATION

We are given a short tour in the winery, where I notice Jens’ name as sender of a pallet of empty bottles, which is a clear indication that the versatile wine consultant has helped the Danish producers with more than just given tips to the pro-

duction. After a tour in their beautiful vineyard, that are located just opposite the family house and winery – and where we meet Niels’ wife and wine partner Nina – we enter the tasting room, where Niels puts four of his wines on the table. While he pours Klipping Rosé 2023 in the glasses, we are having a small talk about their production and Danish wine in general. Amongst other things, we are told that most of their wines are spontaneously fermented, that 60% of the sales are directly from the winery and that their two children, Katja and Adam, helps a lot during the year, but not yet are ready to take over the business even though

both Niels and Nina has reached an age where it would be normal for retirement.

This gives rise to a big question in relation to the future of Danish winegrowing, as it in no way is a natural thing that the first generation of Danish winemakers – which as this moment are the ones with dirt on the hands – are followed by their children as the tradition has been around the wine producing countries for centuries. We are still too young a wine country to have created a tradition that makes it natural for the next generation of the family to continue the inheritance that has just

begun. It is not in our genes yet, so to say. But if this doesn’t happen, what is to become of the great knowledge, know-how and experience for as young a wine country as Denmark? We can only hope that more sons and daughters takes over after their pioneering parents and chooses to continue the inheritance that the last 15 years has shown itself to be so promising, especially in the production of dry white wine made from Solaris.

Well, back to the wines. The fresh, fruity and very pleasant rosé are followed up by one of their flagships, Styver 2023, which precisely is made from Solaris grapes and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Unlike the other vintages, 2023 is more fat, greasy and full bodied than its predecessors fresh and linear style, but is still bears the mark of the pronounced and significant fruit and – when it is

made well like here – beautiful depth of Solaris. Their other flagship is the older brother Sterling in vintage 2022 that has been made from the same grapes as Styver but matured in a mix of new and used barriques for nine months. And the first we smell is also the fantastic, dry and woody aroma of new oak. A bit of Burgundy sneaks into the Domaine in Fårevejle, wonderful. The liquid is a bit oily with good acidity, lots of fruit and a beautiful finish. Through and through a well-made, lovely glass.

Last wine is Drilling 2022 made from the less known grape Hibernal with 9% alcohol and 25 grams of residual sugar. Niels compares is with a German kabinett, but it is in no way as sweet as expected. Very high acidity, light sweetness, good fruit and a pleasant and subdued liquid. Fun to

taste a sweet wine in this way. At my request we finish off with Gylden 2022, which is Niels and Nina’s orange wine made from Solaris and Souvignier Gris with six weeks maceration and nine months in oak. The liquid is light and dry with moderate notes of orange peel and other tertiary aromas.

During the tasting we have been interrupted several times by locals that has come to buy some bottles, which gives my wife and I the possibility to enjoy the beautiful view of Sejerøbugten and talk a bit about the wines. And once again we have been confirmed that Danish wine producers has become impressively good at making dry white wine from Solaris; wines, that can match other European wines and that slowly are creating

a good reputation outside the safe boundaries of our country.

We thank Niels for the visit and embarks out into the Danish summer with the hope, that even more people in the future will follow in the footsteps of Niels and Nina, so we can continue the good development Danish wine in these days are experiencing. And in the end, a great invitation from us to you; if Danish wine still haven’t reached your glass, don’t hesitate to try it; you won’t be disappointed.

Kenny Jess Brandt 2. august 2024

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Central Coast, Californien

SCAR OF THE SEA

“Central Coast giver os mulighed for at leve, arbejde og nyde havets nærhed, som både påvirker de vinmarker, vi arbejder med, og hvordan vi tilbringer vores tid“

- Mikey & Gina, Scar of The Sea

Mikey og Gina stiftede Scar of The Sea i 2012 og siden da er de blevet blæst bagover af kundernes begejstring. Denne tilstedeværelse ved havet former deres livsstil og er med til at definere klimaet, jordbunden og geologien i de kystnære vinmarker, som dagligt indhylles i havgusens tryllebindende tåge.

Fra disse terroirs lukrerer Mikey og Gina på naturens vilde gærceller til fermenteringen, hvilket i deres øjne skaber vine med en autentisk

og levende karakter. Deres tilgang er desuden fri for unødvendige tilsætninger og kemisk klaring, hvilket sikrer, at hver flaske er en ren refleksion af druerne og jorden, de kommer fra.

For at bevare vinens friskhed og forlænge dens holdbarhed anvender Scar of the Sea kun en minimal mængde svovl før flaskning. Dette nøje afstemte valg er baseret på vinens naturlige pH-værdi og sikrer, at du kan nyde vinens autentiske smag og struktur i mange år.

Note from editor: The article in last

Barolo 2020 and – two sides of

TEXT

AND PHOTO:

It is not often that the release of the most current vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco bring two groups of so relatively identical wines on the market. There are differences but in general, we are looking at a bunch of balanced, approachable wines in what could maybe be described as a new-classic style in the two famous appellations.

C’era una volta…The Italian equivalent of “once upon a time” comes to mind, when reflecting on the most recent Barolo and Barbaresco vintages on the market and making an overall judgment. There was a time when the assessment of a vintage of the two nebbiolo wines was a binary decision: worth seeking out or not. As a consequence of this simplistic approach, common in the latter half of the previous century, many a great wine has been missed because it was from a “wrong” vintage, but back then it was a common position that only three or four vintages each decade were capable of making wines of real interest. That is not the case anymore. The change came around the turn of the century with a combination of climate changes and accumulated winemaking competencies in an ever-growing group of new small-scale producers.

Between 1998 and 2021, only 2002 and 2003 stand out as disappointing vintages. Some years undeniably offer higher average quality, and certain vintages produce more top-tier wines. And the point is not that vintage assessment no longer is of any interest in Barolo and Barbaresco. The point is that instead of mere quality, the debate now focuses much more on style. We can see the same kind of development in many other wine areas, especially in Europe and instead of a simple buy/not buy attitude, today there are three main parameters used to make the overall vintage judgments.

Firstly, whether the vintage has yielded approachable and “easy drinking” wines in a more fruit-driven style or more structured ones with less immediate fruit that require time to open. Secondly, whether the wines in the first group are relatively short-lived

Barbaresco 2021 the same coin

THOMAS ILKJÆR

or with the potential of a medium to long positive development in bottle and whether the wines in the second group will reach a stage of balance and top complexity or remain somewhat hard and unharmonious. And thirdly whether the overall assessment is consistent across the majority of wines (an even vintage) or more variable (an uneven vintage).

These are the main parameters for my take on the 2020 vintage in Barolo and the 2021 vintage in Barbaresco. Most of these wines are now on the market or will be soon. That was not the case when I tasted nearly 200 Barolo 2020s and more than 60 Barbaresco 2021s back in January at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba, but except for a tiny part of the wines they were showcased in their final bottled versions. Tasting about 80 young nebbiolo wines in one morning session leaves little room for a fair and precise judgment of individual wines but provides a solid foundation for evaluating the vintage as a whole.

2020 BAROLO

The 2020 growing season began with a mild winter, leading to an early start under near-perfect conditions in March and April. However, May and June brought more rain than usual, prolonging flowering and presenting challenges with humid conditions and downy mildew. Regardless of vineyard management practices, this required extra effort, and the final harvest quality and quantity depend on your ability to keep up with the disease. Fortunately, due to the COVID-19 lockdown during this critical period, most producers had time to focus more on their vineyards than normally, mitigating potential problems.

The humid situation continued during summer and well into September with both rainfall and heat summation somewhat above average. More importantly, though neither rainfall nor heat was never excessive but rather evenly distributed which meant that the vines in general did not suffer having sufficient access to water and experiencing high temperatures that secured ripening without causing stress and blocking maturation.

In September and especially October temperatures went down delaying what up till then had looked like a rather early harvest. At the earlier ripening sites, many producers started harvesting in the last week of September but on October 2nd and the morning after the area experienced extremely heavy rainfall causing a harvest break. Since the weather quickly returned to dry conditions the rain had little effect on the overall quality and most producers completed their harvest by mid-October, aligning with the average harvest dates from 2007 to 2016.*.

In many ways, the Barolo 2020 wines reflect the weather report quite nicely. Overall, these wines

exhibit harmony with neither a lack of nor abundance in tannin, alcohol or acidity. They are definitely more on the welcoming, approachable side with a mature, red fruit sensations and well-integrated tannins. Unlike for example 2014 and 2017

I believe that most of the wines will both keep very well and develop for 10-15 years, but I am less convinced we will see a lot of wines with a positive development in the very long run. This is based on a returning comment in my tasting notes that many wines lack real midpalate density and what I call nerve or vitality, as well as the fact that many producers (for example Claudio Fennocchio from Giacomo Fennochhio and Fabio Alessandria from G.B. Burlotto) told me that they took their

2020 Barolos from barrel much earlier than normal.

As with any vintage, there are exceptions and 2020 also produced wines with an overripe, aciditylacking character as well as austere, fruit-lacking, rustic ones. But they were few and it seems that 2020 was a very consistent vintage with no clear standout subzones or communes. These are wines that you can drink and serve with pleasure more or less from the start but with no need to rush, and you can confidently look beyond the usual top-25 list of producers since there is a fine chance you’ll get your hands on a good wine. Every vintage is unique but if pushed hard I would mention 2004 and 2012 as vintages reminding me of 2020.

2021 BARBARESCO

There are of course many similarities between growing seasons in the neighboring areas of Barolo and Barbaresco, but the latter’s lower average altitude and proximity to the Tanaro river do make a difference and 2021 is a good example. The heavy rains and snowfall in the winter leading up to the 2021 growing season were the same in both areas though, and that turned out to be very important later in a season when the water reserve helped in a year with significantly less rain than average. It was also a year with higher temperatures and generally warm to hot weather if compared with

a historic average. But things have changed and in a more recent context, 2021 was only the second warmest year between 2017 and 2023.

The beginning of the season was generally cooler with a later bud break than many of the previous years. This was fortunate since even an early starter as nebbiolo was less hit when frost arrived at the beginning of April. But in lower vineyards as in many areas in Barbaresco, there was significant damage, and some producers reported a subsequent drop in quantity of 20-30 percent. April and May were relatively cool delaying flowering and even though summer temperatures rose significantly there were no excessive heat waves at any

point. Compared to Barolo, Barbaresco had more summer rain which added to the already good water reserves and ensured a balanced and steady maturation with no water stress. Some hail in late July caused some local damages but nothing like the rather catastrophic situation in some areas in Roero.

During summer the 2021 harvest looked to become a very late one but high temperatures and dry weather in the last part of August and especially September speeded things up. In general, the harvest was done in the first part of October with minimal impact from some late rains.

Despite the differences in weather and growing conditions, 2021 in Barbaresco is in many ways a reflection of 2020 in Barolo as far as the overall judgment goes. The wines are generally balanced and approachable with well-integrated and sometimes even soft tannins. There is a charming, elegant side to many of the wines making them an excellent choice for newcomers in the nebbiolo world. It is a thin line though, since that same quality can make some wines resemble Langhe Nebbiolo a little too much in style. The best 2021 Barbarescos are very good, and some are excellent with superb density and the potential for over

10 years of cellaring. However, in my opinion, the vintage is a little less consistent than Barolo 2020, so I would buy with more attention to the specific producer and even vineyard and in general buy with a “let’s drink now” approach. Style-wise 2021 is leaning towards 2014, which in Barbaresco was a vintage with much more density and potential for development than in Barolo, but it also has some of the 2020 and 2017 characters.

* Data provided by Alessandro Masnaghetti (www.baroloMGA360.it)

CHAMPAGNE JACQUES SELOSSE GUILLAUME SELOSSE

DE SOUSA LAUNOIS PHILIPPE LANCELOT MARGUET

FLEURY CHANOINE FRERES RUINART

KRUG DOM PERIGNON CLICQUOT PONSARDIN

EGON MÜLLER SCHARZHOF MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS

SOFIA THANISCH SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG

PETER JAKOB KÜHN EYMANN KAI SCHÄTZEL

NICOLAS JOLY LEROY DOMAINE LEROY

DOMAINE D’AUVENAY GUILLAUME VRIGNAUD

DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY DOMAINE J.C. RATEAU

DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES LAURENT ROUMIER

DOMAINE DU COUVENT DOMAINE DES VAROILLES

DOMAINE DU TRAGINER MAS PAILLET NENU

CHATEAU CRU PEYRAGUEY CHATEAU GRILLON

CHATEAU MOULIN SANT VINCENT GRAND FERRAND

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GALIA TERRAS GAUDA CASA LOS FRAILES

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Wine on tap serveres via anlæg på samme måde som fadøl. Denne vinopbevarings- og serveringsmetode er vokset i popularitet på grund af dens mange fordele, herunder friskhed, bæredygtighed, enkelthed, større serveringhastighed, volumen og god økonomi.

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Master of Port - A journey begins

BY: HEINE EGELUND

Master of Portwine Scandinavia: A Journey to the Heart of Port Wine in Porto and the Douro Valley As part of the Master of Portwine Scandinavia competition, my colleagues Ketil, Kim, and I from the Danish Sommelier Association set out for Porto and the Douro Valley. We had an exciting journey ahead of us, filled with opportunities to deepen our understanding of port wine’s rich history, meet passionate producers, and face intense tests and tastings - all bringing us closer to a place in next year’s finals in Copenhagen.

DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN PORTO AND DINNER IN THE SPIRIT OF WINE

We landed in Porto on a sunny afternoon, and even from the airplane, we could see the Douro River winding its way through the landscape - a symbol of the region’s long-standing tradition of wine production. After arriving at our hotel in Porto, we quickly got ready to explore the city. Dinner was enjoyed at a charming restaurant near the iconic Kopke port house, the world’s oldest port house, founded in 1638. We were served local specialties featuring fresh fish and seafood, perfectly paired with white and red port wines.

The dishes were robust, reflecting the Portuguese kitchen’s love for pure, authentic flavors.

During dinner, we discussed our expectations for the days ahead and delved into the history of port wine. The evening ended calmly as we each took some time to read up on the Douro Valley’s longstanding port wine traditions, preparing ourselves for the upcoming visit to the IVDP.

DAY 2: A VISIT TO IVDP – THE PORT WINE INSTITUTE

We started day two with a highly anticipated visit to the IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto), the organization responsible for regulating and preserving the quality of port wine from the Douro region. It was a rare and exciting experience to see the inner workings of the institute and learn about the many processes necessary to maintain the strict standards for port wine production and quality assurance.

One of the highlights of the day was an exclusive tasting organized by IVDP. We were introduced to various types of port wines, from young, fruity

Ruby styles to complex, aged Tawny varieties. We were given an in-depth introduction to the subtle differences and characteristics of each type, along with a thorough review of port wine’s history and the regulations that protect its origin and quality. This introduction to the world of port wine was both educational and inspiring, giving us a deeper understanding of the flavors we would be assessing in the days ahead.

In the evening, we gathered for a dinner with other invited sommeliers from the Nordic countries, where we exchanged experiences and thoughts on port wine and the challenges of mastering the many nuances of this complex wine. The camaraderie with colleagues from across the Nordic region gave us not only new inspiration but also a sense of shared ambition.

DAY 3: THE DOURO VALLEY – THE HOME AND HISTORY OF PORT WINE

On the third day, we ventured deeper into the Douro Valley, one of the world’s oldest wine regions and a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its terraced vineyards and spectacular landscapes. We visited the legendary producer Christiano Fonzeller, a figure with significant influence on port wine’s history. Fonzeller is known as part of the Douro Boys, a collaboration among passionate producers working to modernize and elevate the quality of Douro Valley wines.

At Fonzeller’s estate, we were treated to an exceptional tasting, which included a port wine dating back to 1870. Being able to enjoy such an old wine, still vibrant and complex, was an unforgettable experience and a testament to port wine’s ability to age and develop over decades. The extended aging had given the wine a depth and elegance that was truly unique, reminding us of port wine’s special place in the world of wine.

After this magical visit, we continued to the Quevedo port house, where we were warmly welcomed by Oscar Quevedo, a younger generation in the world of port production, who enthusiastically shared the history and production of the house. The tour concluded with another memorable tasting, including a more than 45-year-old white port that captivated us with its depth, sweetness, and balanced acidity—an extraordinary combination that created a rich and lingering aftertaste. The evening was rounded off with dinner at a small restaurant in Porto called Terra Plana, where we enjoyed the company of sommeliers from Scandinavia, the Netherlands, and Belgium, sharing stories and experiences from the day’s tastings.

DAY 4: TESTING AND PROGRESSING IN THE COMPETITION

On our last day, we returned to the IVDP to participate in the quarter-final test for Master of Port. It was an intense day where five out of ten participants from Scandinavia would qualify for the semi-finals and finals, held next year in Copenhagen. The test included several elements: a written test, a blind tasting, and a practical section where we had to present and sell a 50-year-old white

port from the Vista Alegre house. The task required precision and knowledge about port wine’s history and flavor profile.

Both Ketil and I managed to pass the test, securing a place in next year’s semi-final. It was a joyful end to a valuable and rewarding journey, and we were proud to finish the trip knowing that Denmark would be represented in the upcoming final.

The journey to Porto and the Douro Valley was an unforgettable experience that brought us closer to the soul of port wine and connected us with a deep tradition that spans centuries. With knowledge gained from vis-

iting producers, intense tastings, and invaluable connections with other wine enthusiasts, we are now better prepared for next year’s final - and with an even greater love for the unparalleled wines of the Douro Valley.

Best Luxury Estate Winery 2024 - Denmark

As Denmark’s first officially licensed estate winery, Skærsøgaard Wine, in Southern Denmark’s Dons region, is a pioneering entity in the emerging field of Danish winemaking. Founded by revolutionary winemaker Sven Moesgaard, Skærsøgaard today provides cold climate wine to neighbouring Scandinavian countries and those across the world. From sparkling to red, white, rosé, and even dessert wines, Skærsøgaard is the luxury winery of choice for the finest handmade Danish wines and spirits.

Until the 1st of August 2000, people in Denmark were technically only allowed to produce grape wine if they were consuming it for themselves. However, since about 1993, members of the Association of Danish Wine Growers have been arguing that Danish wines can be made that rival those of any almost anywhere else in the world in terms of quality and taste. Thus, after receiving EU approval at the turn of the century, the country’s wine industry has slowly but steadily grown, with more than 100 commercial wineries operating today.

One such operation is Skærsøgaard Wine, and it is the mission of Founder Sven Moesgaard and co. to provide high-end, sustainable wine that performs incredibly well in international competitions. Skærsøgaard achieves these aims almost effortlessly, and today enjoys an industry-leading reputation across the country, having won the most awards and established a dedicated customer base. Leveraging one of the largest vineyards in Denmark at ten hectares and more than 30,000 vines, this winery is located in the EU’s most northern wine region.

Going back in time almost 25 years, it was 2001 when this luxury estate winery first produced its signature DONS range, including its acclaimed sparkling wine that often steals the spotlight. Not only has this sparkling wine received more than 90 medals on the international stage for its excellence in the years since, but it also boasts the claim of being the first, and as of right now the only, Nordic wine to have been stamped with the EU-approved PDO (protected designation of origin), a feat it accomplished back in 2018.

The acclaim that Skærsøgaard’s wines have had heaped upon them does not end there, as the vast majority of other wines in its range are PGI, or protected geographical indication, certified. Essentially, this underpins the distinction that is innate across this underrated wine producing region in the south of Scandinavia. Sven and his team of five employees

do not rely on awards however, and it is their passion for this landscape and its produce that continues to drive the business forward, with help from many volunteer grape pickers.

Skærsøgaard believes its wines are the physical embodiment of summer nights in Denmark in a bottle, complete with the aromatic smell sourced from the ripening of its grapes and the unique artisanal quality that can be tasted across this stellar range. In fact, quality has become synonymous with this operation, and is present in every last drop. This all starts with the selection of grapes grown here, including blue staples Léon Millot, Rondo, and Regent, and famous green varieties such as Orion, Solaris, and Souvignier Gris, to name just a handful.

This remarkable site itself is usually open normal working hours Mondays and Wednesdays, but private appointments are available. The location is a sight to behold in and of itself, but it is made even more appealing by the fact that all of Skærsøgaard’s wines, as well as the other spirits which it makes on-site in its micro-distillery such as liqueurs and brandies, are housed in its farm shop. Specialist stores across Denmark also have the privilege of selling wines that are exported straight from the vineyard, and the full range can be found online here.

Having not only made Danish winemaking feasible, but also top quality and sustainable, the future is bright for Skærsøgaard Wine and its small but incredibly successful team. Producing cool wines in this, our warming world, we recognise Skærsøgaard Wine as the Best Luxury Estate Winery 2024 – Denmark. On the back of this, we encourage any of our wine-loving readers to sample wines from this region to see exactly what makes them, and this winery in particular, so special.

Contact: Sven Moesgaard Company: Skærsøgaard Wine Web Address: https://dansk-vin.dk/

Feature: João Portugal Ramos - “The

In February of 2024, João Portugal Ramos was honored by Revista de Vinhos with the “Hommage Award” for his more than 40-year long career and is the recognition of his remarkable professional and personal achievement, a career dedicated to enhancing the wine production, and to his company, creating benchmark brands in Portugal and worldwide.

“Creating a wine is an art that, in Portugal, we have been perfecting for centuries. Rarely is a good wine the result of chance. My experience as

a winemaker has taught me that a wine reflects the nature of the earth from it is born and of those who produce it. Knowledge, experience and technology enable us to improve, with a high level of precision, the different factors that influence the personality of a wine. For me, helping Portugal’s natural potential in its different regions to shine, by creating and reinventing each wine,is a passion that I am pleased to share with you in each wine I make.”

Being color blind, João Portugal Ramos became

Feature: “The Mourinho of wine”

used to training his sense of smell since he was a child. When he got new clothes, the first thing he would do was to smell them to get any possible impressions. He was still far from understanding the fate of the rest of his life, certainly even further from guessing that the country would recognize him as one of the best wine noses.

Born into a family with a long history of wine production, João Portugal Ramos started his career as a winemaker in Alentejo in 1980, after obtaining a degree in Agronomy with additional viticultural

training in Lisbon. His winemaker career in the 80’es included Quinta do Carmo with Julio Bastons and Domaines Barons de Rothschild. Here João Portugal Ramos worked with the old alicante bouschet vines and the 19th-century marble legares, not yet realizing how important the soil was.

In the end of the 1980’s, as a result of his accumulated experience, he accepted the challenge to become a consultant winemaker in response to requests from various producers all over Portugal.

He established Consulvinus and for more than a decade, his knowledge helped winemakers develop their wines, not only in Altentejo but also in Tejo, Península de Setúbal, Dão, Beiras and Lisbon.

But when he headed to the Alentejo in 1980's, João Portugal Ramos carried with him the dream of producing his own wines and the ambition to leave his mark and legacy. He chose Estremoz for the potential he foresaw in the terroir, the red soil and the marble bedrock. At that time, the region held a merely 2% share in the national wine market. And the town of Estremoz, where João Portugal Ramos still lives, was a small and dusty town with a rundown palace on top of the hill and a Saharan temperature during the summers.

In 1989 he planted his first five hectares of vineyard with the first harvest in 1992. Until 1997 the wine was produced in rented buildings, but in 1997 the new estate, Vila Santa, was ready and to this day, the JPR-group still produces its original wine – Vila Santa Reserva.

Today João Portugal Ramos owns 350 hectares of vineyard around the family home in Estremoz, where his focus is on the typical Portuguese grapes alicante bouschet and trincadeira. The area – once the coast of a sea – is known for its marble. The marble has made Portuguese quarry owners very wealthy, but it has also been essential for the success of winemakers like João Portugal Ramos.

The marble bedrock, girded by schist and topped with the typical red soil is the backbone of the Alentejo wines from João Portugal Ramos. But one particular parcel is special to him and his son and fellow winemaker, João Maria Ramos – the Estremus-parcel. Five hectares with almost pure marble soil.

“The Estremus parcel is not a marble-derived soil. It is almost pure marble. I think that if the place where the vineyard is located wasn’t so close to the castle of Estremoz, it would be a marble quarry”.

The marble is what makes the vineyard – and

the highly acclaimed wine “Estremus” unique. A fresh, rich wine with a clear marble character. And João Portugal Ramos would like to give the marble character to the wine as much as possible.

But also wines like Marques de Borba and the single vineyard wines are produced at the Vila Santa winery in Alentejo. And these wines have more marble in common than just the soil; they are all fermented in marble legares. João Portugal Ramos believes that the extraction is much smoother due the large contact area of the must with the grape skin. After the legares process, the fermentation is then finished in oak barrels.

The Marques de Borba wines are today the symbol of the Alentejo region. The name comes from the happy coincidence of João Portugal Ramos’ vineyards and winery being located in the Borba region of Alentejo, and the fact that one of his uncles actually is the “Marques de Borba”, a noble title dating back to 1811.

The total Vila Santa Winery comprises 9,000 square meters with modern vinification technology, six big marble legares, bottling facilities and a cellar with approximately 300 French, American and Hungarian oak barrels for aging.

Currently, Alentejo holds a weight of over 40% of the national wine market – an impressive growth from the 2% back when João Portugal Ramos settled down in Estremoz.

THE QUINTA DE FOZ DE AROUCE

Quinta de Foz de Arouce estate is located in Lousã, in the Beiras region. It is surrounded by the foothills of Lousã and Penela Mountains and is bathed by Arouce and Ceira rivers where the first one flows. The culture of the vineyard has been known in this place since the Visigothic occupations of the Iberian Peninsula, as evidenced by many legends claiming that King Arunce kept wine, among other precious goods, in his castle of Lousã. The wine production is deeply connected with the history of the estate, being today the only one known in the region.

At Quinta de Foz de Arouce, the vineyards and wine produced had a complementary role, together with different agricultural crops and animal production, only meant for the house consumption. It was in the 70´s that João Filipe Osório de Meneses Pitta, inheriting this property, discovered the potential of the vineyards over 40 years old, producing wines of unquestionable quality.

In the 80's João Portugal Ramos joined the family by marrying João Filipes daughter Teresa and became the consultant and winemaker of the house.

He introduced a new approach in the vineyards as well as in the winemaking. Fermentation of the white wine starts in oak barrels and, just like the reds, ageing takes place also in barrels. As expected, the results appeared quite soon and in 1987 the first Quinta de Foz de Arouce wines were released to the market under the guidance of João Portugal Ramos. In 2005 Quinta de Foz de Arouce officially became part of the group.

THE DUORUM PROJECT

In 2007 an innovative project in age-old vineyards of the Douro Valley was set up by João Portugal Ramos and a fellow winemaker José Maria Soares Franco. A project with ambition and dimension to stand out in the Portuguese and international markets.

In the Douro Valley, slopes and altitude makes a difference, marketing the character and personality of grapes and wines. The Duorum vineyards (“DUORUM” (a Latin expression that means “from two”) are located in the regions of Cima Corgo and Upper Douro, two exceptional and

protected terroirs with predominantly schist soil, on slopes at different altitudes (150-500m), with carefully selected varieties of indigenous grapes like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousão.

The vineyards as well as the winery - Quinta de Castelo Melhor - are located in the Douro Demarcated Wine Region, one of the most ancient in the world. Its landscape and cultural value have been recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage. The most prestigious wine from Duorum is ”O. Leucura” – a wine that has its name from the critically endangered and protected bird Oenanthe Leucura (Black Wheatear), who has a refuge at the Duorum estates.

The DUORUM project always expressed environmental concerns about the preservation of ancestral landscape of Douro Demarcated Region (World Heritage), and in 2015 DOURUM VINHOS was awarded the prestigious, Swedish sustainability award, “The Anders Wall Award” –given to the best biodiversity project management in Europe every year.

THE VINHO VERDE REGION

"Portugal is a country where different and unique wines are made". It was with this idea in mind and with the usual spirit of adventure that the winemaker in 2012 João Portugal Ramos headed north.

To the Vinhos Verdes region - the largest Portugues regions in size and one of the largest in Europe. It extends throughout the northwest of Portugal, in the area traditionally known as “Entre-Douro-EMinho” (between the rivers of Douro and Minho).

The natural conditions of this region are ideal to

produce excellent white wines as well as sparkling wines and brandies. Many differentiating factors contribute to the splendor of this unique region: the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the exposure to sea winds, granite soils, mild climate and high rainfall.

João Portugal Ramos chose the Monção and Melgaço region, the northest part of Vinhos Verdes, to embrace his new project, where the terroir enables him to produce white wines with distinctive character. He recognized the huge potential to produce high quality Alvarinhos and started yet another project to take a new Portugues region to international levels.

The first wine was a Alvarinho Sparkling wine, launched in 2014 – a Bruto Natural. Today, João Portugal Ramos produces three sparkling wines, an award-winning Alvarinho and a Louriero at the estate in Vinhos Verdes.

Back in 2004, Financial Times considered João Portugal Ramos one of the 25 best new wine producers of the year – and since the awards and recognitions have been piling up.

In 2017 - the year in which João Portugal Ramos Group celebrates 25 years - its founder received the “Senhor do Vinho” (Wine Lord) Award from one of the most renowned Portuguese publications in the sector - Revista de Vinhos.

João Portugal Ramos has been Portugals “Winemaker of the Year” 3 times – the first time in 2000 - and it is no coincidence:

"João Portugal Ramos is someone to whom the wine industry owes a lot.Not just because of what he has achieved in the past, but because of the legacy he built and for carrying Portugal's name across borders”. Nuno Guedes Vaz Pires, Revista de Vinhos director.

PASSING ON THE LEGACY

Both son João Maria and daughter Filipa are deeply involved in the business today. João Maria as winemaker – with his own projects as well as alongside his father - Filipa Portugal Ramos is responsible for communication and marketing at João Portugal Ramos – a project started by her father more than 30 years ago. From a very early age the children were challenged to give their opinions on the wines at the family table. And also from a young age, they both participated in the grape picking, the harvest laboratory, the bottling, the reception …. “It was a great way to replenish our finances after the holidays and gradually get to know all areas of the business.”

As Filipa says: “I feel like I'm a bit of a “daughter of wine”. I don't remember a moment at the table, as a family, without wine. When I was born, my father was already a consultant on many wine projects and at the age of 3 or 4 we went to live in Estremoz, where I witnessed the development of our first vineyard, the construction of the winery and the countless visits from friends and clients who stopped by to taste wine. At the dinner table,my father would start by making us smell and tell us what was on our minds, then came the tasting (small sips!), then a small glass... It's funny that someone who also played an important role in this growth in the world of

wine It was my maternal grandfather. Passionate about wine, he also asked us the same questions and challenges at the table, at Quinta de Foz de Arouce.”

The Portugal Ramos’ family will continue to expand the portfolio, adding more complex wines for restaurants. With the focus on the unique terroirs, there is already very unique wines on the market – but we will no doubt see an exciting range from the group in the years to come.

THE JOÃO

PORTUGAL RAMOS GROUP IN NUMBERS:

Present in four regions – Alentejo, Douro, Vinhos Verdes and Beiras

140 employees

First harvest in 1992

Produces red, white, rosé, sparkling, brandy, ports, olive oil and vinegar

Grapes from 600 hectares, a combination of own vineyards and long-term local producers

Høj kompetence og erfaring siden 1979 ligger bag Adriats spændende sortiment, der omfatter vine fra vingårde i hele Italien. Flere hører til blandt verdens førende producenter, andre er på vej, og nogle er stadig ukendte. Alle er de omhyggeligt udvalgt med samme store kærlighed til vinen.