SPRING
SUMMER 2OO8
SIMPLICITY OF HAND AND DEPTH OF THOUGHT
INTRODUCTION
As a child, you spend hours intimately examining the forms and precise details of the things that surround you. A four-year-old will take time to notice the smallest idiosyncrasy, the slightest point of difference. This is something that modernist artists understood – that beauty is often created with a simplicity of hand and depth of thought. At COS, we take a similar approach: working with pure silhouettes, then adding an idiosyncratic edge. Modernity in fashion is, after all, about wearability. What are the building blocks of a modern wardrobe? The perfect shirt, jeans and jacket, a little black dress if you’re a woman, a tuxedo if you’re a man. But in addition to that, you want the finest quality fabrics – soft cotton, poplin, cashmere, silk - and unexpected details such as a seam set just off centre, a twisted lapel, a colour combination that almost misses. These are the things that intrigue us at COS, and keep us excited. This season, curious combinations are abundant. For Spring Summer we’ve mixed the universe of artist Mark Rothko with a 1950s silhouette, luxurious fabrics with sportswear influences, and a monochrome palette with hints of colour. It’s a season of thinking about shapes, and being a bit more daring. Silhouettes are always very important at COS, and this season we wanted to work with very pure, often asymmetrical silhouettes, then twist things by adding something a bit more edgy, glossy, or colourful. In the womens collection we also wanted to show some skin to soften the overall aesthetic. In fact, this season should be about keeping things easy, both stylistically and figuratively by taking time to notice the finer details. So don’t forget to stop and scrutinize the little things in life, and the beautiful precision of what surrounds you.
COVER SUVI: COTTON SHIRT €49 £35, COTTON JUMPER €49 £35 ADRIAN: COTTON JUMPER €49 £35 PHOTOGR APHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE STYLED BY JOE MCKENNA
INTRODUCTION
01
01
INTRODUCTION
03
CONTENTS
04 -05
COS SHOWS IT’S GR APHICALLY PURE
06 -13
A VIEW FROM...
14-27
RE-ESSENTIALS
PHOTOGR APHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE
STYLED BY JOE MCKENNA
28 - 41
REMIX
PHOTOGR APHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE
STYLED BY JOE MCKENNA
42- 49
50-55
EXTR AS PHOTOGR APHED BY BEN R AYNER INSPIRED BY...
WRITTEN BY EDWARD PEACOCK
PHOTOGR APHED BY BEN WELLER
STORE LIST
56
06 -13
WRITTEN BY EDWARD PEACOCK
14 -27
04 -05
28 - 41
42- 49
50-55
COS SHOWS IT’S GRAPHICALLY PURE SHOWTIME
On a bright and warm September morning last year, during London Fashion Week, COS held its second fashion show, presenting the Spring Summer 2008 collection. Guests admired the high ceilings of the Royal Horticultural Halls as they mingled over a pre-show brunch. The mini Eggs Benedict and smoked salmon bagels went down a treat in the sun-drenched room, before the models took to the catwalk to the tunes of Steve Mackay. The show was a distillation of this season’s collection, a carefully rendered selection of graphically pure pieces. You can see the show in its entirety at cosstores.com. More than just a new collection, this is a season of exciting things at COS. Not only has there been recent openings of stores in Copenhagen, Antwerp and Berlin, but two more COS stores are due to open in Cologne in Spring and Paris later in the year. So now you can experience the collection in a store closer to you. Written by Liz Hancock
SPRING SUMMER LOOKS TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: 1. PARTY RUFFLE DRESS €125 £79, LEATHER FLAT SANDALS €79 £55 2. CASUAL COTTON TOP WITH ELASTIC HEM €39 £29, COTTON SKIRT €39 £29 3. CASUAL PRINTED COTTON DRESS €69 £49 4. POPLIN SHIRT WITH COVERED BUTTON STAND €49 £35, BLAZER €190 £125, TROUSERS €69 £49, LEATHER SHOES €99 £69 5.CASUAL BUTTON DOWN SHIRT €49 £35, SINGLE BUTTON BLAZER €150 £99 SHORTS €49 £35 6.FINE KNIT JUMPER €59 £39, TROUSERS €59 £39, LEATHER SANDALS €59 £39
BACKSTAGE AT THE SPRING SUMMER SHOW
04
SHOWTIME
SHOWTIME
05
A VIEW FROM BERLIN NORTH MITTE
Berlin is the sexiest it has been for a long time, since its particularly kinky 1920s in fact, with its decadent cocktail of cabaret, jazz and communism. Sure, okay, there was a certain frisson to the Cold War and its spying games, but one with a nasty aftertaste; all that espionage – peeking over, listening through and digging under the Wall – now seems somehow so grubby and sordid. Reunified and re-anointed Hauptstadt in 1990 (effectively reborn in fact) this is HQ of the EU’s largest member. It straddles the fault line that marks the continent’s east from west and has long been a den of dissenters, artists and freethinkers. Constantly morphing and melding itself, Berlin is right now as liquid a city as any in Europe. Finding distinct and charismatic neighbourhoods in the mix is not difficult: there are many in both former halves ranging in flavour from scruffy grunge-and-garbage sales purlieus and honking Sovist-style megaliths to manicured über ’burbs. Finding an area in the mix with just the right blend of urban grit and urbane chic at any one time is not quite so easy, as the city continues to shift and define itself. Right now there is a cluster of streets in the northern part of Mitte district that gets our vote. Lying just across the River Spree from Museum Island and Berlin’s historic and, once again, modern centre, this is one of the city’s most appealing areas for drinking, dining and shopping. The epicentre of North Mitte would be perhaps the Rosenthaler Platz U-Bahn station halfway along Torstrasse. Just north of the station is Weinbergersweg, which leads onto Kastanienallee and onwards to Prenzlauer Berg. To the south runs Rosenthalerstrasse toward the smartly renovated Hackesche Höfe and the city centre. This area, lying just a few blocks from the course of the Wall in the eastern side of a divided Berlin, was a particularly forlorn and forsaken corner of the old DDR, the polyester paradise that by the 1980s was itself looking rather forlorn and forsaken. The fall of the Wall sparked the rebirth of all Berlin, but of nowhere more so than Mitte, which went from shabby buffer zone to Germany’s hub. Having been effectively kept on ice during the Cold War, the rate of transformation and development has been phenomenal. Change began in the early to mid 1990s as the area shunted from DDR dreariness to squatter central. With the squatters came the artists, who were in turn trailed by enterprising gallery owners and adventurous offshoots of the creative industries. Inevitably soigné café-bars replaced ad hoc club nights and fancy shops shouldered out the junk stores. Within a decade North Mitte was thoroughly revamped, from grime to grunge and graffiti and from thence to an oasis of urban sophistication. A prime example of this would be the Hackescher Höfe at the bottom of Rosenthalerstrasse, which is now a warren of fancy boutiques and galleries and a well-established destination for visitors. Up the street is the retro store Waahnsinn, which
06
NORTH MITTE
carries good stock (especially for fans of Stasi-style kitsch) but is not a place for bargain hunters. Further up again and to the right is Mulackstrasse, an unassuming street that houses a good selection of galleries and domestic fashion designers as well as niche international chains. There’s also the neat little Leo Bettini café, and Flower’s guesthouse at number 1. Cutting back to Rosenthalerplatz via Torstrasse, you will find a superb little mid-century furniture store, Stue, and bright, airy café Sankt Oberholz on the square itself. Weinbergersweg is a great place to idle away an afternoon, having a good spread of food pit-stops. There’s the Portuguese pastelería Galão (at number 8), the Italian café Il Syndicato (5) and Gorki Park (25), which serves Russian favourites such as blinis and dumplings as well as hybrid plates such as Russian pizza. Our favourite place is Fleury at number 20, a chic café serving light, fresh French food – in particular the excellent breakfast plates that (this being Berlin) are served well into the afternoon. You can choose the comfy chairs and scatter cushions in the vaguely retro, blue-and-taupe interior, or sit outside and watch the M1 tram and the innumerable Bugaboos pushed by proud parents roll on by to Prenzlauer Berg. The street widens to become Kastanienallee, which contains an interesting mix of frock shops, interiors boutiques, cafés and bars and, in the second-hand clothes rails, the odd vestige of a less glossy past. Next to Fleury is Volkspark am Weinberg, the lawns of which slope gently to the south and fill with lazing locals whenever the sun shines. Nola, which occupies the retro pavilion in the park, serves rösti, fondue and other Swiss staples in the slickly refurbished restaurant and on the deckchair-strewn terrace – you could almost be in Klosters or Zermatt. That said, there’s still an edge to the area. It has not been striped of all its quirks; there’s a good spread of second-hand record stores pedalling vintage LPs to DJs for example. Nor have all its chinks been hammered out: Polizei and dealers play cat-and-mouse from time to time in the park. True, there are not as many bargain basements stuffed with retro furniture nor second-hand clothes stalls anymore (you are more likely to find such in Friedrichshain) but the whole area is considerably more comfortable and high-spec, the vibe is good and fresh, while it retains enough of the tough urbanity that visitors expect from Berlin. Though some Berliners may dismiss this as gentrification and selling out, it is important to remember that this is gentrification by Berlin standards; what passes for bourgeois here would still be considered bohemian in most other German cities and indeed other north European capitals. To smart Berliners in der nähe and visitors in the know, this is the place. For now at least. YOU CAN FIND COS IN BERLIN AT: Kurfürstendamm 217, Berlin T: +49 30 8800 7794 Neue Schönhauser Straße 20, Berlin T: +49 302 757 2042
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTOPH MACK
Here’s the lowdown on the places and spaces around Europe that inspire us this season, starting with the North Mitte area in Berlin. This neighbourhood has come on leaps and bounds from its dreary old days as a DDR buffer zone, and has created a perfect mix of urban grit and urbane chic in the ever-morphing cityscape of Berlin
A VIEW FROM MUNICH
A VIEW FROM LONDON
CORTIINA HOTEL
ROCHELLE CANTEEN
The Cortiina Hotel sits in the very centre of Munich, cheek-by-jowl with the city’s showpiece sights. A short stroll from the River Isar and Englischer Garten, a stone’s throw from both the Residenz Palace and Marienplatz (the picturesque square that houses the city’s Radhuis with its flamboyant and famed glockenspiel) the Cortiina is technically as close to the heart of Bavaria as lederhosen and oom-pah music. But its style could not be more different. Munich has had a choice of good up-market hotels for decades (or in the case of the Bayerischer Hof, two centuries), with big players like the Bayerischer Hof and the Vier Jahreszeiten and more boutique addresses like the Mandarin Oriental. But they are somehow more in keeping with the comfortable, bourgeois side of the Bavarian capital’s image, and perhaps in some ways a touch old fashioned and outmoded. A hotel such as the Cortiina with its contemporary concept reflects rather the other, innovative and innately cool part of Munich’s nature – more on message with, for example, the Schumann’s bars or the Pinakothek der Moderne (Stephan Braunfels stunning glass and concrete structure of 2002 that houses the city’s museums of modern art, design and architecture). It is little surprise to know that the men behind the Corttina are Rudi Krull, guru of Munich’s hospitality industry, and designer Albert Weinzierl. The design of the hotel is not revolutionary or attention seeking, like some in-your-face urban boltholes we could mention, but slick and contemporary,
radiating cosiness and warmth. The emphasis is on subtle luxury (such as the Kiehl’s toiletries) and natural materials, from the cotton-filled duvets and pillows of your bed to Moor oak panelling, and the Jura stone in the bathrooms. There is good news also for those planning a longer stay in the city and looking for a home-from-home, perhaps to drink though the Oktoberfest from beginning to end (good luck): the neighbouring Cortiina apartments, which opened last Autumn, come in the same style, but with more space and equipped with kitchens. The Cortiina does not offer a full array of five-star services, though the pricing is reasonable and all amenities are close by – this is not a place for those who wish to be cosseted like highmaintenance octogenarians who ideally don’t want to leave the hotel at all. Personally, we prefer the intimacy of this 36-room property. Who needs a restaurant, when your room is a perfect base from which to explore Munich’s many epicurean pleasures, whether on the stalls of the Viktualienmarkt, its beer halls or something more refined at Dallmayr the über grocer? The quite excellent Bar Centrale – our favourite spot for a cheeky Kaffee und Kuchen of an afternoon – lies just down the street and for something a little stronger, and a little later, you need look no further than the hotel’s own cocktail bar. Proof, if it were needed, that the Cortiina is a seriously grown-up hotel. HOTEL CORTIINA, Ledererstraße 8, Munich YOU CAN FIND COS IN MUNICH AT: Weinstraße 3, Munich T: +49 89 21O2 1774
08
CORTIINA HOTEL
Tucked away in the former bike sheds of a converted school in Shoreditch, Rochelle Canteen is redefining school dinners. Join East London’s creative community in the queue and enjoy Arnold & Henderson’s refined refectory dining
PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIM EVE
With clear lines and unfussy décor, the Cortiina hotel is a welcome addition to Munich, a city which is fast distancing itself from its straitlaced past. So while the hotel’s comfort levels may be traditionally Bavarian, its style taps straight into the city’s new cooler streak
If you are interested in a real revolution in school dinners – one that involves neither Jamie Oliver nor Turkey Twizzlers – then Rochelle Canteen could be just what you are looking for. Housed in the slick but simple conversion of a late-Victorian school’s bike sheds in Shoreditch, the canteen has fast become a lunchtime fixture for East London’s creative cognoscenti. True, the late nineteenth-century school is technically no longer a school but home to a foundation that provides studios and offices to artists and creative industries; providing a base for, among others, fashion designers Giles Deacon, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier, as well as Juergen Teller’s agent Katy Baggott. But just as pupils need to eat, so too do arty types, and thus the canteen was born. Rochelle Canteen is the creation of Melanie Arnold and chef Margot Henderson. The two met while working at the French House Dining Room in Soho during the mid 1990s, before starting out together on their own catering business. Arnold & Henderson, run initially from their respective homes and kitchens, has gone from strength to strength, expanding first into the redbrick Rochelle School proper before moving two years ago into its bespoke home in the old bike shed across the yard. That half the space in the old bike shed is turned over to the kitchens illustrates that much of the food prepared here is destined for canapé plates and banquet tables elsewhere in the city. The list of clients whose events Arnold & Henderson have catered range from Vogue to Volvo via the Arts Council and Agent Provocateur. The other half of the space is almost Spartan in design: a white refectory-style 40-seat dining room
with simple wooden furniture and glass doors along one side that open out in summer on to al fresco tables in the yard. The convivial atmosphere stems from the fact that the restaurant functions in part as a social hub for those based at Rochelle, who swing by for breakfast and coffee. Other diners are more than welcome to join them (admission is via a bell beside the former ‘Boys’ entrance), and those that do likewise seem to dwell at the considered end of the local creative industries. Other fine food outlets have grown to fuel the creative renaissance of Shoreditch, and neighbouring Hoxton, Spitalfields and Brick Lane. Just across the circus is Leila’s while Les Trois Garçons stands at the other end of the street – though a million miles away in its flamboyant baroque style and menu. The canteen follows the mantra of Nose to Tail Eating, the pioneering approach that put St John (the Smithfield restaurant of Margot’s husband Fergus) on the map. The style here is similar, with a short menu that can change through the session and an emphasis on modern British cuisine, though the price points are lower than at St John. The dishes are relatively straightforward but beautifully cooked, using well-sourced seasonal ingredients. Not least among these are the delicious steamed puddings with custard – one aspect of school dinners which the canteen happily retains. ROCHELLE CANTEEN, Rochelle School, Arnold Circus, London YOU CAN FIND COS IN LONDON AT: 222 Regent Street, London T: +44 2O 7478 O4OO
ROCHELLE CANTEEN
09
A VIEW FROM ANTWERP MODENATIE
Housed in a converted old store in Antwerp and home to a school, a museum and an influential institute, ModeNatie has fast become the epicentre of Belgian design, fulcrum of the Flemish fashion industry and kernel of the city’s retail renaissance If you wanted to cut a dash in sixteenth-century Europe, then Antwerp was not a bad place to do so. Famed for its fancy lacework, jewels, avant-garde Burgundian trends and home to the fashion forward court at Mechelen of Margaret of Austria, doyen of this dazzling scene, Flanders was definitely the place to strike a pose. And perhaps not in quite such a big way since – until, that is, the bright dawn of the 1980s when the famed ‘Six’ emerged and blossomed from the fashion department of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. The academy itself dates back to 1663, and is the third oldest in Europe after Paris and Rome. The fashion department is precisely three centuries younger, though with a widely regarded emphasis on individual creativity and experimental study it has taken little time for it to become an established player in the industry, and favoured habitat of design talent scouts. The Six – Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee (with Martin Margiela in the rôle of D’A rtagnan) – were all progeny of the legendary Linda Loppa and came to the world’s attention when they rented a truck and rocked up at London Fashion Week in 1988. The ongoing momentum from their discovery has put Antwerp, its fashion school, and Belgian design firmly back on the map. In 2002 the city got its new fashion central, a Ground (Size) Zero for the whole Low Countries in fact, with the opening of ModeNatie. The centre is on Nationalestraat, which runs south from Groenplaats and the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal at the city’s core, and parallel to Kloosterstraat, home of Antwerp’s antique shops and retro interiors stores. Halfway along its length a revamped nineteenth-century store now provides a focus for the city’s school and rag trade, a fresh haj destination for fashion students worldwide and a magnet to retailers. Lined up and down the street, home-grown stars Annemie Verbeke, guarde-robe nationale, Violetta & Vera Pepe, and Veronique Branquinho (the subject of the museum’s next big show) hold their own alongside larger chains such as Diesel, G-Star and American Apparel. Uncle Dries holds sway over this new fashion quarter from ‘Het Modepaleis’ on the corner. ModeNatie houses design studios and workstations for the fashion school on its top floor. The building was originally planned as a store for menswear and children’s clothing (‘natie’ being a Flemish word for a warehouse). A slick overhaul of the block was conducted by Ghent-based architect Marie-José Van Hee; her main intervention being a glass-covered central atrium containing a broad wooden staircase that narrows as it ascends. Internal windows make full use of this light well and give a very airy feel to the structure. The ground floor is anchored by the largest Yohji Yamamoto store in the world, while the more modest yet well-stocked Copyright art and architecture bookshop sits alongside the
10
MODENATIE
main entrance that gives on to the museum’s soaring foyer. The centre also holds the Flanders Fashion Institute (FFI). This is a non-profit organisation that aids graduate recruitment, markets Flemish fashion both nationally and internationally, assists in graduate recruitment, coordinates between the fashion industry and other market sectors, and organises the annual ten-day ‘Vitrine’, which showcases the work of graduates alongside more established designers. In addition, the building provides a home for the Fashion Museum of the Province of Antwerp (Mode Museum, or MoMu to its friends). Tucked behind the reception, and wrapping around an open courtyard is the MoMu Gallery, the smaller of two exhibition spaces with shows that switch quarterly – a showcase of outfits by the academy’s students when we viewed. MoMu has an archive of over 25,000 items, from fabrics to walking sticks, shoes to lacework, which runs in provenance from the sixteenth century right up to contemporary catwalk collections. Though pieces regularly crop up in exhibits, the archives are only available by appointment to students and researchers (much is available to view online, though currently the search engine is in Flemish). The MoMu library on the fourth floor holds over 15,000 books, has subscriptions to over 50 magazines and is accessible to the public Wednesday through to Saturday during term. Instead of endless display cases, the museum focuses on the big biannual exhibitions it hosts, typically based on the work of a particular designer or fashion-related subject. The exhibits are contextual, focussing on inspirations, themes and cross-disciplinary currents. The latest show is that of Veronique Branquinho, who sells her collections around the world and has her flagship store opposite. The exhibit marks the tenth anniversary of her brand and seeks to explore the dualities within her work. It is co-curated by the Blitz collective: writer Oscar van den Boogaard, actor Steven Van Watermeulen and Sven Grooten of B-architects. The Autumn-Winter show is a Martin Margiela retrospective. Both are eagerly anticipated. ModeNatie is a very clever, quirky concept that has been well executed, rather like the style that made Belgium big news again in fashion glossies throughout the world. It has succeeded by bringing together the different aspects of the industry – training, shopping, exhibition – and by encouraging a crossover between these (by, for example, showcasing the work of its own graduates, and gathering the shops of alumni around itself like chicks to a mother hen). ModeNatie demonstrates that Antwerp understands the fundamental importance in fashion – that marketing pays – and above all that it has faith in what it preaches. Soon every city will have to have one. ModeNatie, Nationalestraat 28, 2000 Antwerp YOU CAN FIND COS IN ANTWERP AT: Stadsfeestzaal, Antwerpen, Hopland 31, T: +32 3231 98 00
A VIEW FROM COPENHAGEN BELLEVUE
If you are lucky enough to be in Copenhagen in summertime, and more fortunate to have time for a little R&R, we would ordinarily suggest you try one of the city’s great open-air swimming baths, its harbourside ‘Copencabanas’. However, if you happen to be hankering for a real beach, after something a little more verdant or you’re partial to a classic modernist backdrop, then it is definitely worth hopping on the train for a short journey to Klampenborg. Twenty minutes from Copenhagen Central, along the eastern coast of Sealand that leads up to Helsingor - Hamlet’s brooding Elsinore - Klampenborg is no mere backwater to pass en route. Facing the Øresund it is the first and most famous of Copenhagen’s suburban beaches that have long entertained its denizens when the sun shines. It being the first and the most famous, this would be Denmark’s Malibu or St Tropez, if only the Danes were crass enough to have such places. The area is well-heeled, but not brassy - through the train windows an attractive and well-spaced mix of prime real estate passes by: imperious nineteenth-century villas, smart ambassadorial residences, slightly foreboding high-gabled, black-roofed chalets (foreboding at least on a chilly February afternoon) and slick modern bungalows. An air of affluence has clearly lingered here for quite some time. From Klampenborg station Bellevue beach is a five-minute walk. The scene on the beach is essentially a summertime affair, but it is used to a lesser extent throughout the year; even as we visited two brave bathers emerged from the changing rooms in their robes, stripped on the jetty and took a virtually instantaneous dip (it was February). In the summer the beach is Copenhagen’s most popular - it is sandy and small, backed with gently sloping lawns, the water clean enough and free of rocks. Between June and September, especially at weekends, it fills up with young families, naturists, bodybuilders, lithe girls and lissom guys. The view across the Øresund - a strait busy with yachts and barges whatever the time of year - is to the southern Swedish coast. But it is not just the pretty little urban beach that makes Bellevue notable, but the fact that here one of Denmark’s greatest architects and product designers cut his teeth. When Arne Jacobsen (1902-1971) won the initial 1930 competition to design bathing facilities at Bellevue - changing room, snack kiosks, lifeguard posts, toilet blocks and the like - he had won the first of many covetable public commissions. Just three years out from the Royal Academy of Arts in Copenhagen, he had already impressed with designs for a couple of private homes and a riding stables in the area. Many of the facilities remain (most evidently the long blocks of changing rooms and the lifeguard turrets, overlooking the water on tapering timber stilts) and demonstrate an Art Deco influence, decorated in alternate white and pale blue bands. Even
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BELLEVUE
on this first stage of the development Jacobsen showed a keen sensitivity to the site, integrating structures into the gentle slope. Such was the success of the bathing area that two further commissions for development behind the coast road followed: one the Bellevue theatre and restaurant complex, the other the adjacent Bellavista apartments. The apartment complex at Strandvejen 419-451 is, in effect, one of his individual family villas put into mass production. The theatre stands to the northern end of the site and demonstrates an attention to detail that marked Jacobsen’s integrated approach to design, with door handles, chairs and light fittings especially produced for the building. There are alternating convex and concave lines on the theatre’s main façade, abutted by great white bastion-like corners clad in crisscross trellising and contrasting dark ivy. It’s a look that could perhaps be described as baroque modernism. The curviform style is echoed in the sinuous plan of the restaurant wing that stands between the theatre and the apartments. This high-windowed pavilion was almost entirely devoted to dining and drinking facilities both inside and out real 1930s glamour. Originally Jacobsen planned a revolving restaurant atop a soaring concrete mast, while the first thing you see in the theatre is the bar. Perhaps it’s partly to do with the recreational nature of the commissions, but you have a feel that this is a young man’s work: fresh, bold, experimental, with the odd trace of the folly of youth (or at least as close as a modernist would get to a folly). The lightness and playful aspect of the development is so very different from his darkly monumental latter works, such as the Danish National Bank or the Danish Embassy in London. The revived Jacobsen restaurant - named in the great man’s honour - is the work of architects Ladegaard & Christiansen. It occupies more or less the same space as the old winter restaurant, retaining the sunken snug with open fireplace. Serving Baltic Rim cuisine, the restaurant evokes the architect in a showcase of his oeuvre: cutlery, salt and pepper cellars, chairs and water jugs. If you want to continue in the Jacobsen vein during your trip, just a little futher down the coast by the marina of Skovshoved is the little petrol station he originally designed for Texaco with a Jetsonesque canopy. Befitting its toy-town charm the small interior is now home to an ice cream counter. Further down towards the centre of town you can visit the Paustian store to see his classic furniture pieces. If you want the full works you can stay at the SAS Radisson, especially if you can hook the pickled room 606, and take a coffee in the preserved Café Snelling overlooking Gammeltorv. Or, if you feel you’re done with your pilgrimage, you could just head back to the beach. YOU CAN FIND COS IN COPENHAGEN AT: COS, Østergade 35, København T:+45 369 78881
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATILDA EIDELÖF
If you are after a nice bit of design with your sunbathing this summer we recommend Copenhagen’s Bellevue, where you can take a dip at one of the Baltic’s niche beaches and rest in the shadows of an iconic piece of twentieth-century architecture
RE-ESSENTIALS PHOT O GR A PHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE STYL ED BY JOE MCKENNA
EDDIE: COTTON SHIRT €49 £35 SUVI: COTTON JUMPER €39 £29 ADRIAN: COTTON SHIRT €49 £35
COTTON TOP €35 £25, MINI SKIRT €49 £35 OPPOSITE SAME AS ABOVE WITH: COTTON HOODED SWEATSHIRT €59 £39 GOLD PENDANT ON THREAD €9 £6
FASHION 1
COTTON LINEN BLAZER €150 £99 COTTON T-SHIRT €29 £19 COTTON LINEN TROUSERS €59 £39 TR AINERS €69 £49 OPPOSITE: CASHMERE VEST €59 £39 CASHMERE CARDIGAN €89 £59
FASHION 1
COTTON PRINTED SHIRT €59 £39 COTTON SHIRT €59 £39
COTTON CARDIGAN €59 £39, COTTON T-SHIRT €25 £17 COTTON TROUSERS €59 £39, LEATHER BELT €39 £29
CASHMERE SHORT SLEEVE CARDIGAN €79 £55 CASHMERE 3/4 LENGTH TROUSERS €69 £49 OPPOSITE: LEATHER JACKET €290 £190, COTTON T-SHIRT €25 £17 COTTON SHORTS €25 £17
- REMIX -
PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE STYLED BY JOE MCKENNA
FASHION 2
SHEER VEST €35 £25 SILK COTTON DRESS €125 £79 NET BOW MODELS OWN
FASHION 2
MAC €150 £99
FASHION 2
DOUBLE LAYERED TOP €79 £55 OPPOSITE: SINGLE BREASTED COAT €190 £125, COTTON POLO NECK €25 £17 COTTON TROUSERS €59 £39, LEATHER SHOES €99 £69
FASHION 2
PARTY COAT €150 £99, COTTON SHIRT €39 £29 WOOL SKIRT €39 £29, PATENT BELT €12 £8 NET SKIRT MDOELS OWN
FASHION 2
SILK COTTON KNITTED DRESS €€59 £39 LADIES LEATHER LACE UP SHOES €€79 £55 BOW MODELS OWN
FASHION 2
NYLON BLAZER €190 £125 NYLON TROUSERS €69 £ 49 LEATHER SHOES €99 £69
FASHION 2
COTTON ZIP TOP €29 £19, WOOL SKIRT €39 £29 N ET SKIRT MODELS OWN
FASHION 2
EXTRAS ACCESSORIES
PATENT LEATHER CLUTCH BAG €€49 £35
AT COS, WE THINK OF OUR ACCESSORIES AS OPTIONAL EMBELLISHMENTS TO THE UNADORNED NATURE OF OUR CLOTHING. WE LIKE THE IDEA THAT YOU CHOOSE THE LEVEL OF DECORATION, AND SO DESIGN OUR ACCESSORIES AS AN INTRINSIC PART OF THE SEASON’S COLLECTION. HENCE, MEN’S LACE-UPS FOR WOMEN, TONE-ON-TONE BELTS, AND OVERSIZED BAGS UNDERLINE THIS SEASON’S MOOD FOR THE MODERN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN RAYNER
LADIES LEATHER LACE UP SHOES €€79 £55
MENS LEATHER CASUAL SHOE €79 £55
LARGE LEATHER BAG €150 £99
SILK RUFFLE KNICKERS €€19 £14
RIBBON AND CRYSTAL NECKLACE €€39 £29
MENS PERFOR ATED LEATHER BELT €59 £39
INSPIRED BY... PEOPLE
SOME PEOPLE GET NOTICED WHEREVER THEY GO, DISTINGUISHED BY A STRONG SENSE OF PERSONAL STYLE AND EXUDING EFFORTLESS SARTORIAL SAVVY. THIS ISSUE, WE FEATURE FIVE PEOPLE FROM ACROSS THE CREATIVE SPECTRUM WHO HAVE THEIR FINGERS FIRMLY ON THE PULSE OF THE HERE AND NOW. THESE ARE THEIR VIEWS ON DEFINING ONE’S SELF THROUGH DRESS, THEIR INSPIRATION THIS SEASON, AND WHERE THEY GO TO FIND THE FINEST SHOPPING AND TREND SPOTTING IN EUROPE PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN WELLER
THE AGENT Versae Vanni, model agent from Canada, lives in London How do you represent yourself through the clothes you wear? I think of clothing as a framework to enhance my personality and style. My signature look is one of classic elegance and simplicity. What inspires you this Spring/Summer? Simple lines and beautifully tailored fabrics. My three key pieces this season are light knit cashmeres, baggy trousers and tailored jackets. What are your favourite European destinations for shopping and style? Paris, because it remains the style capital of Europe – I am always inspired to look and feel the best that I can be when I’m there. London, as it allows me to keep my eye on trends, youth culture, and Greenwich and Portobello markets. And Copenhagen, as many up-and-coming designers there provide a fresh, simple vision on classical tailoring. 50
PEOPLE
VERSAE CHOSE: COTTON CARDIGAN €99 £69, COTTON BLAZER €150 £99
THE ACTOR JAMIE DORNAN, 25, ACTOR, FROM BELFAST, LIVES IN LONDON. How do you represent yourself through the clothes you wear? Clothes are always a good representation of the person. I would call my look ‘smart gypsy’, I think – yeah, I like the sound of that! I’m always pretty scruffy, but I try to dress smartly, so I usually end up somewhere in between the two. What inspires you this Spring/Summer ? I’m inspired daily by Bob Dylan. He has always been so far ahead of the game in terms of his music and style. The man was born to be cool… A plain white t-shirt’s essential (as long as it fits), some black cords, and some good sunglasses. What are your favourite European destinations for shopping and style? London’s pretty great for shopping with some really cool vintage shops scattered around the city, and you can always find good stuff in Paris if you know where to look. Plus, there are a lot of cool kids in Stockholm. JAMIE CHOSE: WOOL SUIT €250 £175 COTTON T-SHIRT €15 £10
THE STYLIST Carolyne Rapp, 26, final year student at Central Saint Martins and working as an assistant stylist, from Sweden, lives in London
DESIGN ENTREPRENEURS CHRYSTINA SCHMIDT AND MAGNUS ENGLUND, COFOUNDERS OF SKANDIUM DESIGN STORES, FROM FINLAND AND SWEDEN RESPECTIVELY, LIVE IN LONDON
How do you represent yourself through the clothes you wear? I’m a bit of a jeans girl, and I like a simple but well put-together look – a nice cut, shape and good fit is important. Plus, there’s always a big watch on my wrist. I think you always have to consider that some looks are for shoots and inspiration, while others are for wearing.
How do you represent yourself through the clothes you wear ? C I like simple lines based on 1960s aesthetics, with personal details. M I’m a total anglophile.
What inspires you this Spring/Summer? Toned colours, to give a certain calm. I also liked the ‘hanky around the neck’ look that was shown at many of the men’s shows. For myself, I’ll wear a well-cut box jacket and I also want a pair of navy-blue socks. What are your favourite European destinations for shopping and style? Paris for shoes and that little extra something, King’s Road in London for its vintage stores, Stockholm for jeans. And my mom’s wardrobe, she’s saved so many great things over the years. So, Paris, London and Stockholm – all very style-aware cities in three very different ways.
What inspires you this Spring/Summer? C Zen with a hint of disco. My favourite pieces are a white shirt by Paulo Melim Andersson, black narrow pleated skirt by Givenchy and emerald-green stockings – they’re the best clothes to wear at any time. M Summer in the old British Raj with linen trousers, white shirt and straw hat. What are your favourite European destinations for shopping and style? C & M The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, exotic and still halfway in Europe, Clignancourt flea market in Paris because of its eccentricity and versatility and a bit of Rome for glamour. CHRYSTINA CHOSE: COTTON SHIRT DRESS €79 £55 COTTON SHIRT €39 £29
CAROLYNE CHOSE: COTTON SHIRT €35 £25, COTTON BLAZER €99 £69
MAGNUS CHOSE: CASHMERE JUMPER €99 £69 COTTON SHIRT €49 £35 COTTON TROUSERS €59 £39
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