14 minute read
Modern fabrics for a modernising country –
Rhodia synthetics fibres and the French connection with a “national fashion” of Brazil, 1959-1969.
Did the French origin of the Rhodia textile company influence its transcultural fashion promotion offer in Brazil? Was this a factor in the success of synthetic fibres among metropolitan female consumers in Brazil in the 1960s?
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Alice Conibere
V&A/RCA MA in History of Design, Dissertation
Word Count: 21,986
Submission Date: 26 March 2023
Abstract
This study takes as its premise the possibility that a textile company of French origin may have had a market advantage when introducing a brand-new textile material to Brazilian consumers, in the second half of the twentieth century. The protagonist was ‘Rhodiaceta’, a subsidiary of the Rhone-Poulenc chemical company, with a long history producing artificial and then synthetic fibres in France. Its parent company had a long history in Brazil having established a subsidiary there in the first decades of the 1900s. This was the ‘Companhia Química Rhodia Brasileira’, with ‘Rhodia’ becoming the common-use name for its textile subsidiary.
Although Rhodia launched the synthetic filament, nylon, in Brazil in 1955, a dedicated campaign to promote the company’s fibres commenced in 1959, marking the start of this study’s time period - reference to ‘the 1960s’ acts as a shorthand for a new peak of societal affluence, increased consumption, and cultural transformation, particularly in regard to ‘youth culture’. This applies to Brazil, within the parameters of the country’s unique socio-political and economic situation, specifically the rule of a military dictatorship, following a democratic period of relative stability and growth. The ‘Rhodia Selections’, the firm’s fashion-oriented, consumer-facing promotion of its fibres, including polyester, as of 1961, was executed by advertising manager, Livio Rangan. The end of the time period, 1969, is demarcated by his last full year in post, by which point immensely significant success in sales of synthetic fibres had been achieved for Rhodia.
The premise of this study is based on the French fashion connection with Brazil, which had been significant since the nineteenth century, crystallising with the consolidation of haute couture in the middle of that period. It proposes that the long-standing association of France with ‘fashion’ was leveraged within the marketing strategy of Rhodia, and in the design of garments for its promotions; it presumes the capacity of advertising to mediate a quality of ‘Frenchness’. It also acknowledges that ‘fashion’ is a transcultural experience and also explores the twin-pole of Rhodia’s strategy, the association of the company with the creation of a ‘national fashion’ of Brazil. This is carried out within a framework that considers global and national drivers behind the production and consumption of synthetic fibres, and an analysis of French-Brazilian fashion circulation through consideration of the ‘centre-periphery’ model.
Chapter 1
1.1 Rhodiaceta and the Development of Man-Made Fibres in the Global North, pre-1960
1.2 The Rhône-Poulenc Company - and Artificial Fibres - in Brazil, pre-1950
1.3 The ‘Civilizing’ Influence of French Fashion; the Call for a ‘Brazilian Fashion’, pre-1950
1.4 France Still Holds the ‘Centre’? Couture, Ready-To-Wear and Synthetic Fibres, c.1950s
1.5 Nylon Arrives in Brazil; Context to the Introduction of Synthetic Fibres, c.1950s
Chapter 2 64
2.1 Strategies of the ‘Rhodia Selections’ - Interpreting ‘Frenchness’, Asserting ‘Brazilianess’?
2.2 Livio Rangan, International ‘Fashion Intermediary’.
2.3 French by Birth - Protecting the Pedigree of the Rhodiaceta Brand Family
2.4 French Ready-To-Wear and Synthetics in the 1960s - a Model for Mediation?
2.5 Qualities of Synthetic Fibres and Modern Brazilian Consumers
Chapter 3
3.1 Modern Industrial Production and ‘National Fashion’
3.2 ‘National Fashion’? The Art of ‘Brazilianess’
3.3 ‘National Fashion’? Designers and Dress Styles
3.4 ‘National Fashion’? Brazil on the Page
3.5 ‘National Fashion’? Music and Spectacle
List of Illustrations
Title
Fig. i Jóia Magazine, n.146, 01 October 1965, p.67.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Acknowledgments
Fig. ii Photo, own
Vignette
Fig. iii O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0003, 29 October 1960, p.82.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. iv O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0003, 29 October 1960, p.110.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Chapter 1
1.1)
Fig. 1.1 Image of Count Chardonnet
Handley, Susannah, Nylon: The Story of a Fashion Revolution (Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999)
Fig.1.2 Image of a Schiaparelli cape, 1935.
André Durst Harper’s Bazaar/Hearst Communications, Inc., via The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
New York Times Article ‘The Edge Goes to the Women’ by Cathy Horyn 11th April 2012 https://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/12/fashion/schiaparelli-and-prada-connected-with-womens-innerfeelings.html
1.2) https://www.wikiart.org/en/alphonse-mucha/lance-parfum-rodo-1896
Fig. 1.4 Perfume Launcher Advertisement, 1896, Alphonse Mucha.
Fig. 1.5 Santo André Factory, 1922. Archival Material, Rhône Poulenc Archive
1.3)
Fig. 1.6 Early 1910’s Advertisement, Mappin Stores, São Paolo.
Source: Courtesy of Professor Lou Taylor
Fig. 1.7 Models at Casa Canadá, 1940s. Source: Web (https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/517421444661497142/)
1.4)
Fig 1.8 Precise recording of ‘Velvenyl’s use in models by Paris couturiers, 1954, Rhodiaceta Meeting Notes, Rhône Poulenc Archive.
Fig. 1.9 Reports of couturier use of Rhodia fibres. ‘Winter Fashion, 1959/1960’ Rhodiaceta, n.3, Autumn, 1959
Fig. 1.10 ‘Je Reviens Du Bresil’, Rhodiaceta, n.4, Winter, 1959
Fig. 1.11 Manchete Magazine n.0166, 25 June 1955, p.36, p.37.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 1.12 Manchete Magazine n.0174, 20 August 1955, p.32, p.33.
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Fig. 1.13 Manchete Magazine n.0239, 17 November 1956, p.41.
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Fig. 1.14 Manchete Magazine n.0130, 16 October 1954, p.05.
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Fig. 1.15 Pierre Balmain and his team. https://br.pinterest.com/pin/521010250647532550/>
Fig. 1.16 Manchete Magazine n.389, 03 October 1959, p.50, p.51.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 1.17 Manchete Magazine n.398, 05 December 1959, p.20, p.21.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Chapter 2 2.1)
Fig. 2.1 Pictorial Diagram of Campaign Stages
Fig. 2.2 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0048, 10 September 1960, p.01, p.132, p.134, p.135.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.3 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0050, 24 September 1960, p.104, p.105.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.4 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0003, 29 October 1960, p.86, p.87.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.5 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0008, 03 December 1960, p.84, p.85.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.6 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0008, 03 December 1960, p.90, p.91.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.7 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0001, 29 October 1960, p.113, p.115.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.8 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0007, 26 November 1960, p.52, p.53.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.9 Manchete Magazine n.0447, 12 November 1960, p.54, p.55.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.10 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0008, 03 December 1960, p.93.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.11 O
Cruzeiro Magazine n.0009, 10 December 1960, p.33.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.12 Manchete Magazine n.0450, 03 December 1960, p.54, p.55.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.13 Manchete Magazine n.0453, 24 December 1960, p.07.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.14 Manchete Magazine n.0595, 14 September 1963, p.42, p.43.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.15 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0049, 15 September 1962, p.16.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.16 Manchete Magazine n.0587, 20 July 1963, p.59.
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Fig. 2.17 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.009, 09 December 1961, p.76, p.77.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.18 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0050, 22 September 1962, p.01.
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Fig. 2.19 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0052, 06 October 1962, p.91.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.20
Manchete Magazine n.0589, 03 August 1963, p.62, p.63.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.21
Manchete Magazine n.0595, 14 September 1963, p.57.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.22 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0050, 22 September 1962, p.64, p.65.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.23 Manchete Magazine n.0588, 27 July 1963, p.37.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.24 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0010, 15 December 1962, p.101.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.25 Manchete Magazine n.0545, 29 September 1962, p.53.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.26 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0001, 13 October 1962, p.96.
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Fig. 2.27 Manchete Magazine n.0597, 28 September 1963, p.40.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.28 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0007, 24 November 1962, p.132, p.133.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.29 Jóia Magazine, n.132, 01 August 1964, p.34.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.30 Fig 2.30 Yearly Couturier, Ready to Wear Tables.
Fig. 2.31 Manchete Magazine n.0648, 19 September 1964, p.61.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.32 Manchete Magazine n.0648, 19 September 1964, p.62, p.63.
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Fig. 2.33 Manchete Magazine n.0645, 29 August 1964, p.58, p.59.
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Fig. 2.34 Jóia Magazine n.0133, 01 September 1964, p.32, p.33.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
2.3)
Fig. 2.35 Jóia Magazine n.0136, 01 December 1964, p.11.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.36 Manchete Magazine n.0495, 14 October 1961, p.78.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.37 Rhodiaceta, n.2, Summer, 1966, pp.19-23. Box BH2375, Archive of the Rhône-Poulenc Company, Besançon, p.19.
Fig. 2.38 Rhodiaceta, n.2, Summer, 1966, pp.19-23.
Box BH2375, Archive of the Rhône-Poulenc Company, Besançon, p.21.
Fig. 2.39 Rhodiaceta, n.3, Autumn, 1963, pp.08-17.
Box BH2375, Archive of the Rhône-Poulenc Company, Besançon, p.8-17.
2.4)
Fig. 2.40 Manchete Magazine n.0420, 02 May 1960, p.58, p.59.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.41 ‘Photos de la Mode, Applications Textils’ [Fashion Photographs, Textile Usage], 1958-1974. Box BH0141, Archive of the Rhône-Poulenc Company, hosted by AGS Record Management, Besançon
Figs. 2.42 Elle Magazine n.1081, 08 September 1966, pp.88-91. Accessed at Biblotheque Fornay, 1 Rue du Figuier, 75004 Paris, France.
Fig. 2.43 ‘Photos de la Mode, Applications Textils’ [Fashion Photographs, Textile Usage], 1958-1974. Box BH0141, Archive of the Rhône-Poulenc Company, hosted by AGS Record Management, Besançon
Fig. 2.44 Jóia Magazine n.0132, 01 August 1964, p.1, p.22 p.23, p.28, p.29.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.45 Jóia Magazine n.0163, 01 March 1967, p.84, p.85, p.87, p.90, p.94, p.95.
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2.5)
Fig. 2.46 Jóia Magazine n.0127, 01 March 1964, p.92-p.95.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.47 Manchete Magazine n.0524, 05 May 1962, p.29.
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Fig. 2.48 Manchete Magazine n.0471, 29 April 1961, p.55, p.56.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 2.49 Manchete Magazine n.0495, 14 October 1961, p.43.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Chapter 3
3.1)
Fig. 3.1 Jóia Magazine n.0120, 01 August 1963, p.50, p.51.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.2 FENIT Organiser, Caio de Alcântara Machado, 1958.
Bonadio, Maria Claudia, ‘O fio sintético é um show! Moda, política e publicidade: Rhodia S. A. 1960-1970’ [Synthetic yarn is a show! Fashion, politics and advertising], (unpublished doctoral thesis in History, IFCH, Unicamp, 2005)
3.2)
Fig. 3.3 O Cruzeiro Magazine n.0008, 03 December 1960, p.86.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.4 Jóia Magazine n.0088, 15 September 1961, p.2.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.5 Blouse and skirt. Artist: Hérculos Barsotti
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016)
<https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.6 Hercules Barsotti, ‘Sem Titulo’, 1975.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.7 Jóia Magazine, n.155, 01 July 1966, p.48.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.8 Set of blouse, skirt and coat. Artist: Hérculos Barsotti
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016)
<https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.9 Hercules Barsotti, ‘Sem Titulo’, 1975.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.10 Jóia Magazine, n.145 Special, 01 September 1965, p.43. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.11 Manchete Magazine, n.471, 29 April 1961, p.57.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.12 O Cruzeiro Magazine, n.0017, 29 January 1966, p.33.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.13 Long dress with scarf. Artist: Manabu Mabe. Stylist: Alceu Penne and Dener Pamplona
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig 3.14 Manabu Mabe, ‘Winter Wind’, 1966.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.15 Long coat. Artist: Genaro de Carvalho.
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016)
<https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.16 Jóia Magazine, n.145, 01 September 1965, p01.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.17 Genaro de Carvalho, 'Composition with flower and vegetables', 1960.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.18 Long dress (evening gown). Artist: Genaro de Carvalho.
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.19 Jóia Magazine, n.155, 01 July 1966, p.81.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.20 Genaro de Carvalho, ‘Dois Morros’, 1967.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.21 Set of blouse and pants. Artist: Genaro de Carvalho. Stylist: Ugo Castellana
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.22 Jóia Magazine, n.180, 01 August 1968, p.66m. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.23 Genaro de Carvalho, ‘Palmeira da Ilha da Maré', 1968
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.24 Manchete Magazine, n.438, 10 September 1960, p.49, p50, p51, p52, p53. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.25 Short trapeze dress. Artist: Aldemir Martins. Stylist: Jorge Farré
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.26 Aldemir Martins, 'The Team', 1966.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.27 Jóia Magazine, n.154, 01 June 1966, p.76, p.79. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.28 Realidade Magazine, 01 April 1966.
Wikipédia Page: https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Realidade_%28revista%29
Fig. 3.29 Set of blouse and shorts. Artist: Aldemir Martins. Stylist: Alceu Penna. Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.30 Aldemir Martins, Untitled, 1950s. Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.31 Jóia Magazine, n.145, 01 September 1965, p.03.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.32 Manchete Magazine, n.595, 14th September 1963, p.61.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.33 Aldemir Martins, Rhodia advertisement.
Sant’Anna, Patrizia, Coleção Rhodia - Arte e Design de Moda nos anos sessenta no Brasil',[Art and Design in Fashion in the sixties in Brazil] (unpublished doctoral thesis in Art History, Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinhas, São Paulo, 2010)
Fig. 3.34 Set of blouses. Artist: Aldemir Martins
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.35 Jóia Magazine, n.133, 01 September 1964, p.72. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.36 Two members of the Lampião gang. Photograph: Benjamin Abrahão, 1936. Aba Filmes Collection. Guimarães, Maria Eduarda Araujo, ‘From periphery to centre: Fashion and popular culture in Brazil’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 2 (2013), 299-311
Fig. 3.37 Aldemir Martins, Untitled, 1960s.
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
3.3)
Fig. 3.38 Manchete Magazine, n0499, 11 November 1961, p.54, p.55.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.39 Manchete Magazine, n0471, 29 April 1962, p.62, p63.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx> https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ysl+dior+and+models+paris+1957&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwi0mOyzxprAhXjnCcCHXDjAQAQ2- cCegQIABAA&oq=ysl+dior+and+models+paris+1957&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECCMQJ1DbKFirMGC1M2gAcAB4 AIABhwGIAc0DkgEDNS4xmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=g4ExZPTKJO5nsEP8MYH&bih=860&biw=1740#imgrc=SU_HebvtpiaS_M https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/430304939368535754/
Fig. 3.40 Image of 1957 Dior Collection.
Fig. 3.41 Yves Saint Laurent with models, 1957.
Fig. 3.42 Manchete Magazine, n0595, 14 September 1963, p.58, p59. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.43 Kimono blouse. Artist: Aldemir Martins. Stylist: Júlio Camarero
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016)
<https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.44 Jóia Magazine, n.133, 01 September 1964, p.71.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.45 Long dress (layered column dress). Artist: Hércules Barsotti. Stylist: Alceu Penna.
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016)
<https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.46 Advertising photograph, Sant’Anna.
Sant’Anna, Patrizia, Coleção Rhodia - Arte e Design de Moda nos anos sessenta no Brasil',[Art and Design in Fashion in the sixties in Brazil] (unpublished doctoral thesis in Art History, Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinhas, São Paulo, 2010)
Fig. 3.47 Jóia Magazine, n.155, 01 July 1966, p.51.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.48 Jóia Magazine, n.145, 01 September 1965, p.06.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.49 Long dress with scarf. Artist: Carybé. Stylist: Sonia Coutinho.
Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection' Google Arts & Culture (2016) <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/art-in-fashion-masp-s-rhodia-collection-masp/>[accessed 23 March 2023]
Fig. 3.50 Jóia Magazine, n.145, 01 September 1965, p.55.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
3.4)
Fig. 3.51 Manchete Magazine, n.471, 29 April 1961, p.67.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.52 O Cruzeiro Magazine, n.0006, 17 November 1962, p.01.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Figs. 3.53 Jóia Magazine, n.123, 01 November 1963, p.50, p.52, p.63, p.56.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Figs. 3.54 Jóia Magazine, n.133, 01 May 1964, p.43, p.50.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Figs. 3.55 Jóia Magazine, n.137, 01 January 19654, p.96-p.99.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
3.5)
Fig. 3.56 Guedes, Model parading with bathing costume at FENIT, in 1960, Acervo Estadão. Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.57 Manchete Magazine, n.592, 24 August 1963, p.99.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Guedes, Mariana Ferrucio Vaz, ‘A Roupa como bem de memória: A coleção MASP Rhodia.’[Clothing as a good of memory: The MASP Rhodia collection.], Master’s Thesis in Art History, Heritage and Visual Culture (University of Porto, 2019)
Fig. 3.59 Manchete Magazine, n.755, 08 October 1966, p.14.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.60 Manchete Magazine, n.854, 10 August 1968, p.110, p.111.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.61 Manchete Magazine, n.845, 29 June 1968, p.152, p.153. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.62 Manchete Magazine, n.845, 29 June 1968, p.171.
Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.63 Manchete Magazine, n.903, 09 August 1969, p.52, p.53. Digital Library of the Biblioteca Nacional Brasil < http://memoria.bn.br/hdb/periodico.aspx>
Fig. 3.64 Elephant at Stravaganza, 1969.
Bonadio, Maria Claudia, ‘O fio sintético é um show! Moda, política e publicidade: Rhodia S. A. 1960-1970’ [Synthetic yarn is a show! Fashion, politics and advertising], (unpublished doctoral thesis in History, IFCH, Unicamp, 2005)
