ISSUE 43 AUGUST – SEPTEMBER 2016
Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS
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The Golden Triangle INDIA | ABU DHABI Luxury stopover NEW ZEALAND’S Forgotten Journey | Downtown LOS ANGELES
from the editor
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lmost eight years ago three of us sat down, over a few glasses of good red wine, and made a decision to publish “The Best Travel Magazine in NZ”. We took our time; we wanted to get it right…and 7 years this month Let’s Travel was born. 2009: Michael Jackson was still alive, along with many other great souls we have lost since then. Instagram had not even started; Facebook and Twitter were in their infancy and John Key had only just become New Zealand’s 38th Prime Minister. In a day and age where everything is “instant this” and “tweet that” it’s with a huge sense of privilege and pride that we at Let’s Travel magazine celebrate our 7th anniversary. Yes, we have also embraced Facebook, Twitter and Instagram in to our portfolio of marketing options, especially when we are travelling, but almost without exception the reaction from readers and advertisers alike is the quality of the product we produce is without peer in the New Zealand market. It’s also reassuring to see that the common symbol for a 7th anniversary is copper, and that copper has long had a traditional meaning of prosperity, good luck and good fortune. But of course the three of us could not have taken this journey alone…no way! We have a team of very capable and (many) award-winning travel writers who have graced these pages, but perhaps the ones that deserve the most recognition are the design team at Element Design who have been our designers since inception. We thank you all. Now, sit back, relax and enjoy the destinations in this issue that are as diverse as ever. From my trip to Nashville, Tennessee, to Tim Roxborogh’s first time exploration of Hawai’i and Mark Daffey’s journey through the Golden Triangle of India. Read about Shane Boocock’s Tahitian stopover and Deborah Dickson-Smith’s exploration of The Solomon Islands.
ISSUE 43 AUGUST – SEPTEMBER 2016
ISSUE 43 AUGUST – SEPTEMBER 2016
Live long and prosper
Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS
THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS
Gary Dickson EDITOR-IN-CHIEF The Golden Triangle INDIA | ABU DHABI Luxury stopover NEW ZEALAND’S Forgotten Journey | Downtown LOS ANGELES
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Taj Mahal, Agra, india
“Successful people are the ones who are breaking the rules.” - Seth Godin (1960 - )
IFC www.letstravelmag.com From the Editor
Is it still a workout if you’re this relaxed? Come to the place where a morning walk is taken along a white sand beach, and exercise is rolling a paddle through crystal clear waters. It’s not hard to see why Fijians are such happy people, and it’s not hard to be just as happy as they are. Make a booking at www.fiji.travel
www.fiji.travel
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AUSTRALIA
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Let’s Travel: is published by LT Media Ltd PO Box 55199, EastRidge, Auckland 1146. New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 521 4879 www.letstravelmag.com Editor-In-Chief: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421 Editor at Large: Shane Boocock shane@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 142 7040 Editor at Large: Gayle Dickson gayle@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 281 7699 Sales and Marketing: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421 Design and Production: Element Design monique@element.co.nz Ph: + 64 9 636 0558 Contributors: Shane Boocock, Mark Daffey, Gary Dickson, Gayle Dickson, Deborah Dickson-Smith and Tim Roxborogh www.facebook.com/letstravelmag www.twitter.com/letstravelmag To enquire about permission to copy cuttings for internal management and information purposes please contact the PMCA, Ipayroll House, 93 Boulcott Street, Wellington, phone (04) 498 4488, email info@pmca.co.nz. Copyright – LT Media Limited. No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied in any form by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, information retrieval systems or otherwise) without the express prior written permission of LT Media Limited. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Let’s Travel or LT Media Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility whatsoever.
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Beyond Abu Dhabi 6 Europe - AP Touring 12 Paris 14
Abu Dhabi Sheikh Zayed Mosque
Destination Abu Dhabi
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Sir Bani Yas Island Words and images by Gary Dickson
I am lucky enough to go back to one of my “happy places” each and every year…Europe. But, being of a different vintage than when I first made that trek 32 years ago, I prefer to break up the journey. Abu Dhabi is the perfect spot to do this. The perfect spot to refresh, stay a few days (or more), and then continue on your way.
Beyond, Abu Dhabi www.letstravelmag.com 7
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his year I was lucky enough to be invited to stay at Sir Bani Yas Island (a luxury resort 2 and half hours drive from Abu Dhabi airport) where you can see a slice of Africa on the Arabian Peninsula. Fancy embarking on an exhilarating adventure? You’re covered at Sir Bani Yas Island! Explore the beauty of the land and get in touch with Mother Nature by walking through a diverse range of flora and fauna. Lock eyes with predators such as cheetah or hyena on the island’s fun and factual Nature & Wildlife Drive or perhaps you’re looking for a relaxing escape? Let your cares slip away in the luxurious surroundings, combined with the natural beauty of the island! Getting off a 12-13 hour flight then jumping in a car for a 2.5 hour drive (albeit a luxury air-conditioned limo) wasn’t really my cup of tea, and if I had to do it again I would stay a night in Abu Dhabi first. But once you step on board the boat that shuttles you to the island (only a 15 minute ride) then you feel relaxed at once. Sir Bani Yas Island, as it stands today, was the brain-child of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. He envisaged a time where, if nothing was done, all Arabia’s endangered species would disappear.
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Sir Bani Yas Island has a long history of human settlement dating back to the Bronze Age with the last settlement leaving around 110-120 years ago. To date, 36 archeological sites have been found on the island with some of the oldest remains dating back to 600 AD. The island was opened to day visitors in the 1990s but soon became so popular that bookings had to be made months in advance. Nowadays, a variety of accommodation is available under the Anantara brand and it is luxurious. The food, typically Arabian, is to die for and the views are exceptional. Staying here on my way to Europe was a great decision…for the body, mind and…stomach.
A wealth of culinary adventures awaits you on Sir Bani Yas Island. Whether it’s a romantic candlelit dinner on the beach with your loved one, or a delightful family feast at one of the Island restaurants; our diverse, freshly-prepared dishes are sure to tantalise your taste-buds.
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Quick Facts: The five-star Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara offers luxury rooms, suites and beach villas, a lavish spa and three dining experiences. The Resort was named among the world’s top 70 resorts and the region’s top two hotels by Condé Nast Traveller’s 2009 Hot List.
The Palm:
An all-day dining restaurant, located in the Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara, The Palm offers a dizzying array of international and Middle Eastern fare. Start the day with a mouth-watering breakfast buffet from 7am – 1pm, enjoying fresh fruit, freshly baked bread and gourmet delights. In the evening, this alluring restaurant becomes the site for entertaining theme nights.
the opportunity to relax within the casually elegant restaurant or enjoy magnificent moonlight views on the terrace.
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Al Shams:
Whether its light gourmet snacks and beverages during the day from the comfort of your sun lounger, or an evening of socialising, Al Shams, which means ‘The Sun’, offers a range of Arabian and International delights to suit guests’ every need from 12noon – 11pm. The signature Arabic restaurant and bar, located at the Desert Islands Resort and Spa by Anantara, offers guests
The resort was also listed in Condé Nast Travellers’ 2010 Gold List’ in January this year. Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara received the Internationally-Recognised Green Globe Certification in December 2011
The Lounge:
Situated at the Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara, delight in aromatic, excellently blended coffees, gourmet loose leaf teas, aperitifs and beverages in a tranquil setting. Open from 3pm-10.30pm, the stunning views across the sea are bound to end your evening on a high note; so come and share a nightcap at The Lounge bar.
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Amwaj:
Head down to Amwaj and immerse yourself in a relaxing, contemporary rustic beachside setting. Located in the Desert Islands Watersports Centre adjacent to Desert Islands Resort & Spa, Amwaj seafood restaurant offers a menu featuring freshly caught local favourites as well as international offerings, daily from 12noon - 10.30pm. The rustic atmosphere is complemented further with a beach bonfire during the cooler winter months, offering guests the chance to enjoy a romantic atmosphere or a fun-filled experience with family and friends.
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Savannah Grill & Lounge:
Located within the Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Sahel Villa Resort, Savannah Grill and Lounge offers you the opportunity to treat yourself to the tempting flavours from the African continent. Allow the captivate sounds of the surrounding grasslands to offer a natural ambience as you savour its succulent steaks, African delicacies or other western favourites in a contemporary rustic setting.
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facts: Gary stayed on Sir Bani Yas Island complements of Anantara Resorts and got to Abu Dhabi flying business class with Etihad Airways direct from Sydney on their majestic Airbus A380. www.etihad.com
Olio:
Discover this beautifully Italianinspired restaurant and enjoy its tempting flavours whilst indulging in breakfast, lunch or dinner. Situated within Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort, you can savour delicious pizzas and other Mediterranean fare while enjoying panoramic sea views from the contemporary dining room or terrace between 7am-10.30pm. Wildlife comes first on Sir Bani Yas Island, and the staff follow strict codes of conduct in order to preserve the island. The maximum speed limit allowed is 50km/h, in order to protect wild animals crossing roads. Sir Bani Yas Island is home to over 30 species of free-roaming animals and key to the environmental and conservation efforts on the island is the creation of the Arabian Wildlife Park. This 4,100 hectare area (almost 50% of the entire island) is dedicated to breeding and rehabilitation of animals indigenous to the Arabian Peninsula, and already houses over 13,000 animals. The Arabian Wildlife Park is being developed in four phases starting with relocating animals back to the mainland, then separating the indigenous and non-indigenous wildlife with the creation of the park – this ensures purity of breed. The iconic animal specie in the park is the critically endangered Arabian Oryx. This unique indigenous animal has been classified as instinct in the wild since the 1960s. Today, Sir Bani Yas Island is home to a herd of over 500, and simply majestic they are to see in such numbers.
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Over the past year, more than 13,000 animals from Sir Bani Yas Island have been released into wildlife reserves in the Liwa Desert, on the Abu Dhabi mainland. This monumental programme has been carried out in conjunction with the Abu Dhabi Environment Agency. Abu Dhabi is a thriving metropolis and one of my favourite places on the planet. But to get “out of town” for a few days and experience the true Arabian culture and heritage is as enthralling an adventure you can get. www.sirbaniyasisland.com
There’s a whole world out there . Come and discover it with World Expeditions.
Helping travellers find the paths less travelled for 40 years. Let us help find yours. For more information visit: www.worldexpeditions.co.nz Phone: 0800 350 354 enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz
Travelmarvel Premium Europe River Cruising Discover Europe in comfort and style with the perfect balance of comprehensive inclusions and free time. Travelmarvel invites you aboard its premium river ships for a breathtaking discovery of Europe’s rich history, culture and cuisine. Onboard, you will enjoy exceptional service, as a dedicated cruise director and friendly onboard crew ensure that the service they provide is in itself a holiday highlight. With a perfect balance of included touring and free time, Travelmarvel’s European river cruises have been designed with your enjoyment in mind.
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hile expert local guides will take you to all of the must-see sights and hidden gems, you’ll never feel rushed and will enjoy the freedom and flexibility of exploring more of Europe in your own time. Waking to historic cities and towns on your doorstep, you will be spellbound by what is a truly amazing way to travel. Travelmarvel’s unique Insider Experiences are also included on every European River Cruise, which delve deeper into the local tastes and traditions through hand-picked touring activities, unique special stays and memorable meals that allow you to experience the real essence of Europe. These experiences are offered at no extra cost and include a visit to the World Heritage-listed Augustusburg Castle and the legendary Falkenlust hunting lodge in Brühl, a visit to a local Miltenberg family’s home for coffee and cake, a festive night of Bavarian beer, food and folk dancing plus much more. If you wish to extend your Travelmarvel experience beyond your premium river cruise, there is an extensive range of land journeys you can take advantage of. Extend your stay in the enchanting cities of Paris and Prague, or explore the delights of Croatia and Slovenia. Traverse Europe’s alpine wonderland or journey over to explore Britain. Uncover the iconic art and history of Italy or journey along Eastern Europe. Whichever fascinating path you choose, Travelmarvel offers incredible
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value and provides the most enjoyable way to venture across this marvelous continent. Dining: Discover why Europe is famous for its fine food and exquisite wine. For the entirety of your cruise, expert chefs use fresh produce to create a range of culinary delights that offer a taste of the cultures and traditions of the region you are visiting. Accommodation: The journey is every bit as exciting as the destination, with all ships featuring staterooms and suites, French balconies and expansive public areas in which you can relax. Offering the ambience and amenities of a
premium hotel, everything on board has been designed to enhance your experience and provide impressive views of the ever-changing scenery. Highlights: Just some of the highlights you will experience include a cruise down the Amsterdam canals in a glass-top boat, an authentic Bavarian experience including traditional food, folk music and dance, a Viennese food market tour, time to explore the magnificent Melk Abbey, or a magical twilight cruise along the Danube and more. Facilities: French balconies in the majority of staterooms, 360-degree view sun deck, stylish lounge and bar, fitness centre, hair salon, 24-hour reception, 24-hour tea and coffee stations and onboard bicycles.
• • • • •
What’s included: All meals onboard including four-course dinners Wine, beer and soft drinks with all onboard lunches and dinners Services of a Travelmarvel Cruise Director Small-group shore excursions with local guides All port taxes, airport transfers, gratuities, onboard Wi-Fi and onboard entertainment
For more information and to request your free Travelmarvel brochures call 0800 278 152, visit www.travelmarvel.co.nz/Europe2017 or
see your local travel agent
Beyond, Europe
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Destination Paris, France
fotolia.com
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Un Voyage Gourmand (A gourmet journey) Words and image by Gary Dickson
Beyond, Paris, France
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Au Petit Tonneau
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ess than thirty minutes walk from the front door of my hotel in Paris, Hotel Paris Bastille Boutet (by MGallery), was a place that I had never visited, yet had always wanted to see. I had been to Paris many, many times over the years but a visit to the grave of one of Rock’s legends had eluded me. Inscribed on the grave are the words, in Greek, which translate as “according to his own daemon” (guiding spirit). It conveys the sentiment that Jim Morrison was “true to himself”. That is the mantra one should run with when visiting Paris! Paris…there is such a variety of things to experience here. If you can’t find something to like here then there isn’t much hope for you really. Despite stories you may have heard about “the French are so arrogant”, or “if you can’t speak French you might as well not go”, I can assure you that has changed. Sure, 20 – 30 years ago when I was last in the French capital, that it’s exactly what it was like. But today Parisians are as friendly as any people I have come across – and better than many. For those visiting Paris for the first time I strongly suggest you jump on a city tour…but a city tour with a difference. Let me introduce you to Bustronome…a gourmet journey! With a very clever play on the words “gastronome” and “bus” you may start to get the picture of what this entails. With the journey lasting just over two hours – depending on
Paris’s traffic – you will visit nineteen of this majestic city’s landmarks, and hear a little about each with their interactive personal “talking wand”. The audio is available in 8 different languages as well. For a lunch of 4 courses, at a cost of just 65 Euros (85 if you wish to include wine and champagne), you will travel upstairs in a luxuriously converted double decker bus, which stands out above all with its panoramic glass roof. There is no need to get on and off every 5 minutes because the driver slows right down as you pass the likes of the Trocadero, Notre Dame, Les Invalides and, of course, the Eiffel Tower. Seating, as you might expect, is limited to around 30 passengers so be sure to book and try and get the table at the front of the bus. The view is superb, especially if you are trying to impress “someone special”. But wherever you sit the views are everywhere and photography is easy.
My Top 5 places to explore in Paris 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Bustronome
Arc de Triomphe
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The Louvre Montmarte/Sacre Coeur Stroll the Champs Elysees Musee d’Orsay Eiffel Tour
Our journey is focused on yours Fly with us and experience a better journey to your choice of over 110 European destinations. As well as our award-winning service and extensive in-flight entertainment, you’ll enjoy a fast and easy connection at London Heathrow’s state-of-the-art Terminal 5. Book now at ba.com
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Boutet Hotel
Bustronome also do an evening service, which lasts a little longer than the lunchtime experience, and is over 6 courses. At 100 Euros without wine and champagne (or 130 Euros with) it is still a great way to see the city lights and cheaper than a lot of Parisian restaurants. For a hearty taste of France head to Au Petit Tonneau (The Small Barrel)…the authentic Parisian Bistro. Situated in the heart of Paris’s 7th arrondissement, moments away from the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, Au Petit Tonneau is on the famous Surcouf Street. The atmosphere in this 34-seater restaurant is quintessentially French. Even down to accordion music playing in the background. René Artois would be very impressed indeed. I was in Paris…garlic snails had to be on the menu. And they were, but so were other gastronomic
Jim Morrison's grave in Pere-Lachaise cemetery
delights such as their goat’s cheese, Chateaubriand and (my favourite) veal in a Madeira sauce. The restaurant has had the same name for over 100 years – indeed, there have only been 4 owners in that same period. The current owner, Arletta, is a “newbie” at 5 years ownership, compared to her predecessor who owned it for 30 years, but she has maintained the reverence of the place. So much so that locals and foreigners alike flock here. Whether you experience Paris’s culinary delights at the classic bistro level or somewhere new and funky you will experience what Paris is all about through the food. Paris is about love, life and Carpe Diem (Cease the Day)…something I’m sure Jim Morrison would have continued to do if he was alive in his favourite metropolis today.
Au Petit Tonneau
facts: Bustronome Metro: Kleiber or Charles de Gaulle Etoile P: + 00 33 954 444 555 www.bustronome.com (Departs from 2 avenue Kleber, Paris 75116 – right next to the Arc de Triumphe) Au Petit Tonneau (The Small Barrel) 20 Rue Surcouf Paris 75007 Metro: Bir Hakeim P: + 00 33 147 050 901 www.aupetittonneau.fr/index. php/en Hotel Paris Bastille Boutet 22-24 Rue Fiadherbe, Paris 75011 Metro: Faidherbe/Chaligny P: + 00 33 140 246 565 www.accorhotels.com Pullman Eiffel Tour 18 avenue de Suffren (entrance 22 Rue Jean Rey) Metro: Bir Hakeim P: + 00 33 144 385 600 www.accorhotels.com
Bustronome
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Asia China 20 India 24 Macao 30
Imperial Palace, Beijing, Juneau, China Alaska
Destination China
Beijing by foot Words and image by Tim Roxborogh
Forbidden City
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CCTV Headquarters in Beijing
Forbidden City
ou have to really love a building to walk over an hour just to get a better photo of it. “Do you know whereabouts in Beijing there’s this crazy skyscraper which kind of has two towers going up, leaning-in together and then crazily suspended in mid-air like it’s all going to fall down?” I put this somewhat confused question to Ray, my tour guide in Beijing. An unflappable chap who paradoxically enjoys wearing those flappy caps where your neck also gets covered! I hadn’t worn one since primary school and I found myself reconsidering this decision for the first time in more than 25-years. “Yes! Big Pants Building!” said Ray excitedly. Evidently not what the building is officially called, Ray pointed me in the right direction which wasn’t hard – the Big Pants Building was visible in a perfectly straight line from my hotel. The previous day’s haze was lifting and there it was several blocks away: a geometrically-defiant piece of architecture that had captivated me from as far back as when the plans had first been published in the early 2000’s. Captivated, Yes! Capable of remembering its name…not quite. “Everybody in Beijing calls it ‘Big Pants Building,’ explained Ray, due to the fact the China Central Television Headquarters (otherwise known as the CCTV Building) vaguely resembles a gigantic set of legs. At 234m and 44 storeys, the CCTV Building also looks a bit like a physically impossible MC Escher sketch coming to life as an office block. It is ridiculous and fantastical and as a long-time fan of skyscrapers I had to get a photo up close. I could’ve caught the subway, but sometimes when I travel it’s fun setting a destination that I have to walk to and then seeing what I encounter along the way. Staying at the Novotel Hotel right near the Forbidden City, the CCTV Building was so huge that it looked much closer than the seven kilometres I later realised I’d walked. No matter, there was many a dumpling that needed burning off.
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Along the way I learned a couple of things I never expected about Beijing: one, it’s really clean with virtually no visible litter, and two, it’s oddly un-hectic. An Asian metropolis with more than 20 million souls? If you’re expecting some of the addictive, frantic mayhem of Bangkok, Jakarta or Hanoi you might be surprised. Beijing is massive, colossal even, but hectic or frantic weren’t words that sprung to mind. Instead what I saw were wide footpaths, cars mixing smoothly with the famed Beijing bicycles of decades gone by, a small percentage of motorbikes, narrow alleys, malls, high-rises and sun umbrella-wielding pedestrians who weren’t remotely affected by the presence of a western tourist. About halfway towards the CCTV building and sensing it may’ve been a fraction further than the 30-minutes I’d estimated, my direct line was interrupted by Ritan Park. A walled green-space centred around a temple and a lake, this was just the kind of place I was hoping to stumble across. Ritan Park isn’t going to top many lists of tourist must-dos in Beijing – indeed it is currently listed as the 45th best thing to do in Beijing on Tripadvisor – but as an authentic snapshot of life in the Chinese capital it was a quiet little joy. Keeping the slowly enlarging presence of the Big Pants Building as my guiding compass, I allowed myself some slight detours to see just what was going on in this most urban of parks. It was late afternoon, bang on 30 degrees and there were men and women in their office clothes dancing, presumably to ease the stresses of the working day. This was flimsy-armed, almost rag doll-like dancing and to see it done amongst the trees and with no sense of self-consciousness was a reminder of how uptight we can sometimes be in western cultures. Dancing in the park with people watching and judging me? Never! Good on them. From dancing to something I’d be altogether more comfortable showing off about, public table tennis. Like a lot of city parks in China, Ritan Park is a place you can come and play some outdoor sports
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and board games. I witnessed one match between an elderly chap who barely moved his legs against a younger opponent who had to leap all around just to compete.
The hand-eye of the older, semi-rooted to the ground player gave him a kind of nonchalant calm in the face of his flailing protégé. Right next to the table tennis was a scene so stereotypically evocative of China it was a pleasure to know it was both entirely real and very, very common: blokes getting together and playing mah-jong in the park. With their bellies exposed and T-shirts rolled-up to cool themselves in the summer heat, there was something charming about the notion of gathering your buddies to play a simple, ancient game in a spot as communal as the local park. Leaving the park I passed the earnest marching guards of the embassy district and saw some of the curious art sculptures that are increasingly popping up around Beijing.
facts: Newstalk ZB’s Tim Roxborogh travelled to China as a guest of Cathay Pacific and Wendy Wu Tours New Zealand. Cathay Pacific’s new A350 begins flights between Auckland and Hong Kong from October 31st – see more at www.cathaypacific.co.nz
For details on Wendy Wu Tours’ extensive range of China itineraries, please visit www.wendywutours.co.nz
Public art in Beijing
Ritan Park
After 80-minutes of walking, I arrived at the foot of my destination. A highway separated me from the entrance and aware there was no public viewing platform in arguably Beijing’s most triumphant modern building, I was as close as I was going to get. Wow. Big Pants did not let me down. Echoing Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands (the trio of 57-storey hotel buildings connected by the surfboard-like rooftop swimming pool), the CCTV headquarters is representative of 21st century skyscrapers smart enough to know being the tallest isn’t the be all and end all. What these buildings show is that you can get internationally noticed for reasons beyond height. Given its possible skyscrapers have perhaps too-rapidly reached their altitudinal
and mathematical peaks with the projects found in the Middle East, buildings like the CCTV headquarters suggest an alternate future.
I couldn’t stop pressing click on my camera, even though all my photos were essentially identical. In the same way that it’s the imagination of Disneyland that blows me away as much as the thrill of the rides, craning my neck at a skyscraper where a chunk of the floors are improbably suspended a couple of hundred metres above ground was awe-inspiring. Eventually turning my back and remembering I had a date with a Peking Duck restaurant to attend to, I took my final photos and bid farewell to the Big Pants Building. My Beijing stay would also involve some incredible and expansive historic structures like the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven, but in many ways the walk to my crazy modern skyscraper was just as rewarding. Not to mention as revealing.
Playing table tennis in the park
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Destination India
Colours of India Words and images by Mark Daffey
The Golden Triangle circuit encompassing Delhi, Jaipur and Agra is India’s most popular tour itinerary, for good reason.
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ou’ve no doubt heard of the saying about painting a town red. Well, how about colouring it pink instead? Trip back to 1876 and that’s exactly what a Rajasthani king did. He painted the city of Jaipur pink to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert. The thinking behind Jaipur’s facelift was one of symbolism; pink denotes the colour of welcoming and hospitality…the ruling maharaja, Ram Singh, wished to impress his regal guest. It’s an impression that’s had a lasting effect. Look around the buildings inside Jaipur’s city walls today and you’ll soon realise they’re all pink. Shops, temples, palaces and the walls themselves are all a delicate shade of salmon. The only exceptions are the buildings within the City Palace walls; they’ve remained pale yellow, as they were in the days before the prince’s visit. The ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur forms one vertex in the heavily trodden Golden Triangle circuit that also includes Delhi and Agra. For many, it will be the first Indian city they explore…and there’s much to see. For starters there’s the Hawa Mahal, arguably the city’s most recognisable attraction. The ‘Palace of the Winds’ is also an oddity…a bit like Kim Kardashian, if you will…on the surface, it’s shapely and delicate (both are feminine attributes), but behind that beautiful façade is a structure of shallow substance. Believe it or not, that was the intention. Built in 1799 in a pyramid shape, rising five storeys high and decorated with 953 intricatelycrafted filigree windows, it served as a screen behind which the women of the royal household could spy on the city’s grid-patterned streets without fear of being seen.
Asia, India
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The Hawa Mahal occupies a space in the eastern wing of the City Palace, an Aladdin’s cave of treasures containing bejewelled daggers, ornamental doorways and princely robes. Jaipur’s only World Heritage-listed site, the Jantar Mantar, is also located next door. This is where giant sundials constructed in 1728 can tell the time within two seconds, and where betrothed couples come to check their compatibility before committing to their vows. Travel to the outskirts of town and you’ll pass the Jal Mahal, a summer palace built on water. Then continue along that road and you’ll reach the
Jaipur Streetside Photography
Elephant ride to Amber Fort
Inside Fatehpur Sikri’s sacred complex
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Main entrance to the Taj Mahal
imposing Amber Fort, the centre of Maharaja Jai Singh II’s kingdom until he relocated it to Jaipur in 1727. If you’re on an organised tour you’ll probably enter the fort’s gates on an elephant’s back. Once you’re inside, you’ll be able to stroll around the various courtyards containing Mughal-arched audience halls, elaborately manicured gardens and apartments where the king’s wives and courtesans once lived. Tours around India’s Golden Triangle might include several side trips, to Ajmer or Pushkar (site of India’s largest camel fair) or to spot tigers in Ranthambore National Park. One stop you won’t have to detour away from the highway to see is Fatehpur Sikri. This one-time Mughal capital is a ghost town now, save for the many tourists wandering through its sandstone palaces, tombs and temples each day. Livelier is the Jama Masjid, or Grand Mosque, adjoining it. It contains the world’s highest entrance gate, the Buland Darwaza, and a shrine to the Sufi saint, Sheikh Salim Chisti. Come here on a Thursday ideally, when families picnic and play in the complex’s expansive courtyard. The highlight of any Golden Triangle tour is the Taj Mahal. Completed in 1643 on the south bank of the Yamuna River in Agra, this symbol of a man’s love for his wife has melted the hearts of lovers the world over for centuries. Have your picture taken beside the pool then marvel at the fine decorative inlays crafted into its marble walls and arches. To see the Taj at its best come at dawn or just before dusk, when the sun’s golden rays warm the shrine’s symmetrical domes and minarets. The gates remain open during full moons too, though ticket prices are more expensive then and entry is capped at 30 minutes per visit. Several hundred metres upriver from the Taj Mahal is Agra Fort. This World Heritage protected fort was built by the Mughal emperor, Akbar, then added to by his grandson, Shah Jahan, the ruler who commissioned the construction of the Taj Mahal. For 90 years, this fort was the stronghold of a Mughal Empire that stretched from modern-day Afghanistan to Bangladesh.
Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal
Agra’s Red Fort
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to the Chandni Chowk market area. It’s here where you can get a taste of what the rest of India might hold. Within a 1,600m stretch you’ll pass houses of worship for Hindus, Muslims, Jains, Sikhs and Christians, and it’s home to a motley collection of shops, restaurants and mansions. It’s aromatic, interesting and ridiculously crowded. It is, you could say, a microcosm of India.
Jaipur snake charmers
View of Taj Mahal
Rickshaw Taxi rank
facts: Mark Daffey flew to India courtesy of Korean Air. Korean Air flies three-times weekly from Auckland to Mumbai via Seoul. Numerous Indian airlines connect Mumbai with Delhi on a regular basis. www.koreanair.com
Fatehpur Sikri’s Buland Darwaza Gate
Thereafter, the capital shifted to Delhi, where the similarly ochre-coloured fort in the heart of the Old City is no less spectacular. Seven walled cities are scattered around Old and New Delhi. Of those, the oldest is Lal Kot (a name that translates as Red City), which the Qutub Minar complex was once a part of. Located close to the Indira Gandhi International Airport, the
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brick minaret was once the tallest man-made structure on Earth, measuring 72.5 metres high. Then there’s Humayun’s Tomb, pre-dating the Taj Mahal by 76 years and forming the inspiration for its design. Time spent in the gardens here is a peaceful respite from the mayhem beyond its walls. Delhi’s Old City is where you’ll find the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, close
Mark joined Crooked Compass’ 10-day Ard Kumbh Mela itinerary. It included touring around ‘The Golden Triangle’ of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur and three days spent at the Ard Kumbh Mela festival in the holy city of Haridwar. Crooked Compass specialise in off-thebeaten-track small-group tours, which includes 14 unique Indian Festival tours. They also offer private tailor-made itineraries. www.crooked-compass.com New Zealanders need a tourist visa to enter India. These can be arranged at your arrival port though it’s far more efficient now to do it online. www.indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa
www.incredibleindia.org
India Tourism Sydney, Level 1, 133 Castlereagh Street (Accessible from 210 pitt Street) Sydney, NSW 2000 Ph: +61 2 9267 2466 Website: www.incredibleindia.org email: info@indiatourism.com.au
Destination Macao
What’s on in Macao! Macao is one of Asia’s must see destinations. Whether you are seeking to be pampered at one of the luxurious spas or stay in a ritzy yet affordable resort or hotel, be entertained by world-class performers, or even explore the rich culture and history of this former Portuguese enclave whilst engaged in high adventure activities. Macao has something for everyone.
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acao is a city on the move, but it never loses its unique blend of Chinese and European cultures. Macanese food, which is a fusion of Portuguese, African, Southeast Asian and Chinese cooking, has gained international recognition after being enjoyed by travellers for decades. In recent years, Macao has become firmly planted on the map as one of the world’s culinary destinations – following an influx of internationally renowned restaurant brands from around the world and celebrity chefs that take Macao’s gastronomic scene to new heights. Macao is just a 55 minutes ferry ride from downtown Hong Kong and Kowloon or 50 minutes from Hong Kong International Airport with frequent services available. Macao is also Visa free for most nationalities including Australian and New Zealand Passport holders.
Celebrations all year round Macao is a city that never sleeps and has some of the world’s most colourful events only to be found in the former Portuguese enclave. With its full year’s calendar of events and festivals, why not travel and join in on the action and the exciting experiences that can be had in Macao. Here are our Top 5:
1
28th Macao International Fireworks Display Contest
3rd, 10th 15th, 24th September & 1st October 2016
The annual Macao International Fireworks Display Contest universally acclaimed as one of the best of its kind - takes place on the Macau Tower Shorefront on all the weekends in September, the ultimate showing on the 1st October every year. Over the years, more than 100 international teams from China, the Philippines, Thailand, Chinese Taiwan, Japan, Korea, Australia, the UK, Switzerland, France, Germany, Portugal and Spain have participated in this world-class pyrotechnic shoot-out.
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Many visitors choose this time of year to come to Macao to enjoy a holiday illuminated by spectacular displays in the night, to be viewed from many vantage points on the Macao Peninsula and adjacent Taipa Island. en.macaotourism.gov.mo/events
2
63rd Macau Grand Prix 17th to 20th November 2016
Recognised as the most internationally prestigious event on the local calendar, the legendary Macau Grand Prix - now edging into its seventh decade - pits the best motorcycle, WTCC and Formula 3 racers in the world against each other and the clock in dedicated competitions along the narrow, twisting Guia street circuit. The high-pitched whines of racing engines, the roar of the crowd, and the adrenalin-charged atmosphere make for a colourful four days of non-stop, head-turning excitement in the streets of Macao. www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo
3
Parade through Macao, Latin City
4th December 2016
Created in 2011, this cultural event is held annually to mark the anniversary of Macao’s handover to China and focuses on a colourful procession through the streets of Macao. Every year, several foreign performing groups as well as hundreds of talented local artists are invited to be creative.
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They lead the locals and tourists on an adventure through Macao’s streets and alleyways with plenty of song and dance in the city’s historical quarters. The parade, which highlights Macao’s unique cultural features and the City’s multicultural atmosphere, culminates in a grand joint performance in which the artists present dazzlingly colourful performances, bringing the celebration to a vivid climax.
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35th Macau International Marathon 4th December 2016
This international marathon, first hosted by Macao in 1981, continues to attract large numbers of local and international long distance runners. The full course Marathon includes the Peninsula, Taipa and Coloane, while the Half-Marathon and Mini-Marathon have been created to attract not only professional athletes but budding amateurs seeking to test their endurance on the course. www.macaumarathon.com
5
Chinese New Year Parade in Macao
Parade #1: 30th January 2017 Padade #2: 4th February 2017
The “Parade for Celebration” features a fabulous float parade along with more than 1,000 performers and spectacular fireworks. This event is joined by 14 floats, 28 local groups as well as a total of nine performance groups from different parts of the globe, including Mainland China, Hong Kong, Korea, Japan, Malaysia, Thailand, Portugal, Spain and the USA. A multimedia opening show will kick off the parade, promising an extravaganza of light and 3D effects. en.macaotourism.gov.mo/events/calendar
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New Zealand Central North Island 36 Auckland Zoo 40 The Langham, Auckland 43 Queenstown 44
Australia, Hamilton Island www.letstravelmag.com 35
Destination New Zealand
Our Forgotten World Words and images by Tim Roxborogh
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n one of my recent talk radio shows we were discussing the most memorable rail journeys people have ever taken. From bowel-tastic overnight trains in India to the glories of first class on the Orient Express (as written about by Gary Dickson in the previous issue of Let’s Travel)…I heard the full spectrum. Adding my own yarn to the mix, I mentioned the time (not very long ago) that I rode what’s become known as “The Forgotten World Railway”. Halfway through the story a caller challenged me, saying, “if it was on a golf buggy, does it really count?” “Yes!” was the emphatic answer. One, because that golf buggy was modified in order to ride 140kms of century-old railway, and two, because it was such a beautiful, unusual experience that it had to count! Besides, I was the one telling the story. The story begins in the centre of New Zealand’s North Island in the town of Taumarunui, population
5,000. It was 2009 that a partial derailment put the final nail in the coffin of the then less-attractively named Stratford to Okahukura Railway Line. The 108-year old line was shut down. Truth be told, the 142-kilometre stretch of rail that passes through dense forest, jagged cliffs and remote, pioneer-era farmland had been in financial decline since at least the early 80s. 1983 was the final year of passenger travel and with improving road transport links, the line’s days of commercial rail were always going to be numbered too. After more than a century (the first sleepers on the railway were laid in 1901), that could have been the last chapter in the Stratford to Okahukura Railway Line. That’s if not for a Kiwi with a strong sense of adventure and history, not to mention an eye for a potential money-spinner. Having heard about the now decommissioned railway, Waikato
District Councillor, Ian Balme, decided to have a look at the land it ran through first-hand. What he saw made him certain that to have this visually stunning slice of New Zealand closed off would’ve been a grand shame. The economic viability of commerce and public transport on this stretch of rail may have ended and ended for good, but tourism presented a completely different economic model. Besides, didn’t it seem like a waste to have all those gorgeous bridges and tunnels go unseen? In total, the Stratford to Okahukura Railway Line features no less than 98 bridges and 24 tunnels, all completed by the 1930s, with the most impressive of those tunnels 1.5km long. Comprehending that each of those bridges and tunnels were feats of engineering involving enormous numbers of workers who toiled in some extreme conditions, Balme knew he was looking at something of genuine historical importance.
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Making a pitch to Kiwi Rail to get a lease, Balme finally succeeded and in 2011 he was granted a 30-year operating licence. The obstacles were not small. Balme’s idea of using golf buggies would ultimately work, but there was much tinkering with design, let alone the health and safety hurdles to cross. There’s also the not inconsiderable achievement of
convincing others in positions of power that “Forgotten World” was a snappier name than “Stratford to Okahukura”. Even the highway that runs partially along the railway is known as the “Forgotten World Highway” and has apparently had a jump in tourists since the rebranding. It sure sounds more intriguing than State Highway 43.
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So here I was, four years after tourist operations first began and the Stratford to Okahukura Railway Line morphed into the Forgotten World. Sitting in my converted golf buggy and admiring the kinds of misty mountain views that inspire foreign tourists to put New Zealand on their bucket list, I was rapidly understanding why this little Kiwi business has taken off. Booked onto the Forgotten World’s most popular trip, the one-day, 80km ‘20 Tunnel’ tour, my guide explained that the company has the honour of reportedly having created the world’s first effective golf buggy/train hybrid. With the buggy’s rubber tyres replaced by specially made synthetic wheel frames that roll directly over the rails, the ever-improving ride is apparently much smoother than the first ones back in 2012. In between telling me all about the physical and financial cost of the railway during its 1901-1932 construction (an estimated $9.4 billion in today’s money, much of it built using picks and shovels), my guide let slip the time he noticed
disappointingly more conventional… an actual human named Vicky who manages the pub. With Whangamomona a really wild-west town that almost looks like a set on a Hollywood back-lot, it attracts visitors both interested in its scenery as much as its eccentricity. Forgotten World guests have the option to either stay the night in the Whangamomona Pub or to be bussed back to Taumarunui where the Forgotten World Motel is. This is the headquarters of the whole operation and is itself a short drive from Okahukura where the railway begins/finishes. Seeing the staff at the refitted motel and thinking about the guides Forgotten World
a tourist sweating profusely at the wheel of a buggy. Turns out the poor chap didn’t realise the steering wheels have been disabled and are now just for show. The strung-out man was desperately trying (and succeeding) to keep his buggy on the train tracks, not realising his balancing act was valiant but entirely unnecessary. Rest assured, the only driving skills you need to enjoy the Forgotten World are knowledge of an accelerator and a break. With no balancing required, you spend your time on the railway shooing lambs from the track, slowing down for photos of bridges, tunnels and mountains and stopping at some of the former settlements that once dotted the line. There’s the quirkiness of abandoned cars
overgrown with plants that you discover have been placed to add to the ambience, not to mention tiny schools and villages that are just about as far from a decent-sized town as New Zealand gets. Speaking of quirky, the end of the line for this tour is a town that thinks it’s a republic due a redrawing of regional boundaries in the 80s. Not only that, Whangamomona has elected Presidents as varied as a goat and poodle, though the current President is somewhat
employs, not to mention all the workers along the journey who provide the guests with snacks and lunch, you realise what a positive impact this business is having. Taumarunui’s population was once as much as five times what it currently is, but decades of urban drift and the closure of certain industries has led to a steady decrease. Like the remarkable railway nearby, the area has been largely forgotten. Forgotten World Adventures are starting to change that.
facts: Newstalk ZB’s Tim Roxborogh travelled as a guest of Forgotten World Adventures. Multiple tour options and itineraries are available. www.forgottenworldadventures.co.nz
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Destination New Zealand
Wild about Africa‌ A $7m African savannah development opened at Auckland Zoo recently, offering visitors a rich immersive journey and new ways to experience some of Africa’s most stunning wildlife.
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he new development is the gateway to the rest of its Africa precinct, and is proving wildly popular with adults and children alike. Its opening celebrates the first completed project in an exciting $120m 10-year redevelopment programme that’s being funded through Auckland Council’s long-term plan. This summer you’ll be able to explore a second completed project. ‘Australia’ will be home to a diversity of Aussie wildlife. Following the opening of its hugely successful $16m New Zealand precinct Te Wao Nui in 2011, this $120m redevelopment programme is by some margin, the biggest in Auckland Zoo’s history. Visit the new African savannah yourself and you’ll discover you can get ‘foot to hoof’ with giraffe and zebra from a wildlife hide (lookout) and giraffe watering role as well as experiencing these majestic creatures from high viewing platforms. Enter the expansive walkthrough aviary that’s home to a large breeding flock of colourful and very vocal African masked lovebirds. Within the aviary you can also
venture through tunnels to large pop-up viewing windows (yes they’re adult-friendly too!) and come face to face with a very inquisitive mob of meerkats. The aviary also offers panoramic views out across the entire savannah, where along with giraffe, zebra and ostrich, you can also see rhino, springbok, and in the near future, newcomers Nyala, a southern African antelope species. Pass a waterfall and cross a tiny stream for close-up viewing of adult and baby leopard tortoises in their outdoor and indoor areas; you might also come across keepers doing impromptu encounters with these fascinating long-lived reptiles. A rock amphitheatre, tumbledown rocky escarpment, caves and water features, and an African village school yard (leading to the lion exhibit) and extensive plantings, all add to this immersive experience. Says Auckland Zoo director Jonathan Wilcken: “The zoo is a conservation organisation that cares for, and helps conserve wildlife, and a key part of our work is engaging our visitors with the wonder of our natural world.”
“This dynamic African savannah experience is a great example of how we can offer powerful opportunities for people to connect with, and fall in love with, some of the world’s most amazing wildlife. These species are disappearing fast and will only be saved if people care. We want everyone who comes to the zoo to be inspired to help ensure their future – be that for giraffe, Asian elephant or many of New Zealand’s own threatened endemic species,” says Jonathan. By visiting Auckland Zoo people are, through their entry ticket, already helping contribute to the $1.4 million support Auckland Zoo gives annually to dozens of conservation projects throughout New Zealand and around the world. Helping conserve wildlife in the wild is a key role of modern progressive zoos, and an ever-increasing one for Auckland Zoo, which along with financial support, on average has staff contributing close to 10,000 hours a year utilising their specialist skills in the field. Says Jonathan, “The animals our visitors can connect with here at the zoo play an important
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Auckland Zoo has also previously had staff assist GCF in the field. This winter the zoo’s most senior giraffe keeper, Nat Sullivan, is in Namibia, working alongside the GCF team to locate wild Namibian giraffe and fit them with GPS tracking collars. This is so GCF can find out more about this giraffe sub-species, its movements, natural ecology and the threats it’s facing to help inform its future conservation management.
…and Aotearoa Back home in Aotearoa, the Te Wao Nui precinct is an opportunity to discover close to 60 unique species across environments from the coast, sanctuary islands, forest, wetlands, and ‘the night’…which is home to kiwi and other nocturnal wildlife. Te Wao Nui is also the hub and showcase for the extensive work the Auckland Zoo team does for native species, both onsite and out in the wild with its many conservation partners. One of these is the Rotoroa Island Trust (RIT), with whom the zoo is working to create a unique wildlife reserve on Rotoroa Island in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. Along with visiting Auckland Zoo, take the opportunity to visit this 82ha predator-free isle, where to date the partnership has released tīeke (saddleback), pōpokotea (whitehead), Coromandel brown kiwi, takahē and moko and shore skinks. www.aucklandzoo.co.nz www.rotoroa.org.nz
role in advocating for their wild counterparts; species that we’re helping to protect in the wild. Giraffe, for example, although an iconic African species, is one about which we know surprisingly little, and yet giraffe populations have plummeted by over 35% in recent times as their habitat is increasingly lost. “Every visit to the zoo helps us fund the work of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), with their passionate team of giraffe experts from around the world. This is currently the only organisation in the world dedicated to securing a future for these largely forgotten megafauna.”
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The Langham For the second year in a row, The Langham, Auckland has taken home the prestigious New Zealand Hotel Industry Environmental Initiative Award. The Langham Auckland was singled out for its commitment to sustainable tourism and the environment for the second year running, having won the inaugural title in 2015.
The hotel began its journey to sustainability back in 2006, when it first partnered with EarthCheck, the world’s leading environmental management and professional services group for the tourism and travel industry. Since then it has introduced a series of sustainability practices, which include measures to save water, lower energy consumption and reduce waste through recycling. Managing Director, Franz Mascarenhas, is delighted the five-star hotel has been acknowledged as a sustainable leader in New Zealand tourism, by the premier awards for the New Zealand hotel sector. “Being recognised by New Zealand Hotel Industry Conference for a second year in a row has consolidated the position of The Langham Auckland as a national leader in sustainability,” says Mr. Mascarenhas.
“It is very pleasing to be once again recognised as a business that is taking environmental and social responsibility seriously,” says Mr. Mascarenhas. “We feel privileged to play a part in shaping a more sustainable future for tourism in this country – and internationally.” As part of its community support program, CONNECT, the Langham Auckland supports a range of local and international charities including
the Garden to Table Trust, Make A Wish New Zealand and WWF. The prize money from this year’s Award win will be donated directly to Make A Wish New Zealand to assist them to make another wish come true for a child with a life threatening condition. The hotel also stands to receive the prestigious EarthCheck Platinum level of certification within the year if it passes the next audit process with EarthCheck, becoming the first ever Platinum certified hotel in New Zealand and the wider Pacific region, and the first ever Platinum certified hotel in the Langham Hospitality Group. It will then join an elite group of industry leaders who have consistently demonstrated commitment to their communities and high standards of environmental management. www.langhamhotels.com/auckland
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Destination Queenstown
Choice Hotels extends its upscale offering to New Zealand Choice Hotels Asia-Pac (Choice Hotels) has expanded its global upscale offering to New Zealand, with the launch of the boutique Ascend Hotel Collection and its newly signed partnership with Nugget Point Hotel in Queenstown.
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he upscale offering will complement Choice Hotels’ four existing brands - Econo Lodge, Comfort, Quality and Clarion - across its 32-strong New Zealand presence. The Ascend Hotel Collection is unique in its offering in that it allows a property to retain its local brand
identity whilst taking advantage of Choice Hotels’ powerful distribution channels, strategic sales and marketing programs and operational support. Following the announcement of a successful year for Choice Hotels in 2015 and after hints at new upscale hotels to be introduced in New
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Zealand in 2016, CEO Trent Fraser was thrilled to introduce the new Ascend Hotel Collection to New Zealand and welcome this one of a kind property to the Choice Hotels family. “The Ascend Hotel Collection is an exciting new direction for the Choice Hotels brand in New Zealand.
Each Ascend Hotel Collection property will offer guests a blend of unique characteristics – an established local presence, intriguing heritage and boutique character. With consistent superior service and an impressive array of distinguished rooms, we believe Nugget Point Queenstown Hotel is a shining example of this and more,” says Fraser. Fraser sees the Ascend Hotel Collection as providing many growth opportunities for the Choice Hotels brand. “Growing the Ascend Hotel Collection is a priority for Choice Hotels in New Zealand. We have an aggressive expansion strategy in place with multiple properties in our pipeline,” he said. Set at the base of Coronet Peak, Nugget Point is the perfect escape for holiday-makers looking for an authentic Queenstown experience. With 40 well-appointed guest rooms, this definitively boutique hotel offers guests peace and tranquillity perched high above and overlooking the famed Shotover River and nearby mountain ranges. It’s also just a short drive from the heart of the alpine town’s action and its surrounding ski fields. Steeped in rich gold-rush history, the property includes a restaurant with river views, Roman bath-style spa, hot tub, sauna & steam room, heated indoor pool, squash court, movie theatre, fully equipped gym and on-site spa offering massages. All guest rooms within the hotel are open plan and spacious with
a balcony (some with river views available), kitchenette, flat screen TV and complimentary WiFi. Choice Hotels has 32 hotels dotted across New Zealand. Conveniently located in city centres, metropolitan areas and regional
centres, Choice offers a variety of options ranging from the economy Econo Lodge, to the convenient Comfort, the superior Quality, the premium Clarion brand and now the boutique Ascend Hotel Collection. www.ChoiceHotels.co.nz
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Destination Queenstown
Sofitel expands in Queenstown One of Queenstown’s finest boutique hotels, Hotel St. Moritz, has announced a major brand shift within the luxury accommodation market in Queenstown, by joining the Sofitel brand universe.
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his charming and singular property is now positioned within the newly badged MGallery by Sofitel collection by parent company Accor Hotels. As a result of the repositioning, Hotel St. Moritz will commence a three million dollar investment in its room inventory for renovation. Having launched its stunning new bathrooms in 2015, Hotel St. Moritz is embarking on further transformation this year to completely redecorate all 134 rooms and suites in the property, which overlooks Lake Wakatipu and surrounding mountains. The distinguished design for the rooms retains the hotel’s charming alpine character while incorporating a modern interpretation of luxury, through locally inspired and immersive features filled with heritage, stories and richness. Renowned interior designer, Stewart Harris, who has worked with the hotel since its development, coins the design as “elegant, residential, handsome and enviable, with firm landscape references”. Hotel St. Moritz General Manager, Jo Finnigan, says she is “extremely excited” to see the new interpretation of luxury come to life throughout the property. “Hotel St. Moritz’s unique personality is perfectly matched with
the open-minded character of the MGallery by Sofitel brand, and I’m excited to see Stewart bring this to life,” she says. “The ‘new look’ will be timeless with a whimsical twist to perfectly bring “charming” together with “luxury”. This next wave of investment for Hotel St. Moritz demonstrates our commitment to continuously raise standards for our guest experience. “As newly-appointed General Manager of the hotel, I’m very excited to be driving this next chapter of our story and look forward to unveiling the stunning new rooms and suites to our guests.” Hotel St. Moritz was developed by owner and original developer, Graham Wilkinson, in 1998. The property was selected as founding member of the MGallery Collection in 2008, which now has 75 hotels around the world under the MGallery by Sofitel brand. Hotel St Moritz and Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa property owner Graham Wilkinson said the brand transition was the “key driver” behind commitment to invest further into Hotel St Moritz. “The Sofitel brand is now represented in two extraordinary hotels in downtown Queenstown, offering 216 hotel rooms and suites in total, and by far the largest inventory of five star rooms in the CBD” he said. “The owners are also investing in two key areas of Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa this year, meaning a total investment of over six million dollars into the local tourism market. Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa is focusing on two key areas for
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refurbishment – its renovation of their luxury Penthouse, a brand-new event room and superior executive lounge and a new bar. The new MGallery by Sofitel positioning strengthens the brand by leveraging the equity of the Sofitel core brand – which has experienced solid success since it was repositioned in the luxury segment in 2007. MGallery by Sofitel is grounded in a clear understanding of market expectations and offers a new interpretation of luxury, based on clear customer segmentation. Accor Hotels is evolving the brand architecture of its luxury and upscale brands hotel portfolio in order to better respond and surpass the expectations of its savvy and selective international guests. Accor Hotels Senior Vice President Operations New Zealand, Fiji and French Polynesia, Chris Sedgwick, says today’s guests are looking for more “modern interpretations of luxury”. “They are worldly travellers with global attitudes, but they still want locally inspired and immersive experiences. While some prefer recognisable and lavish luxury, others are swayed by luxury in more understated forms,” he said. “Accor Hotels’ new Luxury Upscale portfolio, which includes MGallery by Sofitel, addresses these travellers expectations, offering guests a portfolio of luxury options to choose from, and we’re delighted to enhance our luxury offering in Queenstown with Hotel St. Moritz becoming part of the Sofitel brand universe.” www.stmoritz.co.nz
Australia Christmas Island 48 Elements of Byron 52 Moonlit Sanctuary 56
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Destination Australia
Jewels in the Indian Ocean Words and images by Deborah Dickson-Smith
These two tiny tropical outposts in the Indian Ocean, while 1,000kms apart, share the same flight path from Perth, so its well worth visiting both on the same holiday. A rock and a circle of coral cays, they are the opposite of each other visually, and yet they share many traits, from their shared colonial history, to their unique wildlife.
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Christmas Island: At first sight, Christmas Island’s steep volcanic slopes bedecked with lush green foliage might remind some of the South Island’s Fiordland, but delve deeper and the difference is in the detail. Like New Zealand, Christmas Island is the kind of place where you can create your own eco-adventure holiday, but by lying just 10° south of the equator, the flora and particularly the fauna are decidedly different. Being the cropped-top of an ancient seamount, it’s much smaller too, and all activities can be undertaken as a day trip from the main settlement, funnily enough called Settlement. Take one day to trek through the Dales along marked trails that wind through temperate rainforest and waterfalls, and make sure you look down along the way and check out the crabs: there are literally tens of millions of them throughout the forest, from the abundant red crabs to the massive robber crabs. Take another day to explore Daniel Roux caves: there are no lights, no handrails and no admission fees so be sure to take a couple of torches to see the magnificent stalactites and stalagmites that rival the majesty of any cathedral. Dress to get dirty as you’ll be clambering over rocks and dodging guano - the cave is also home to a large colony of micro-bats and tiny swifts, so the floor can get ‘slippery’ underfoot. There are other little features of natural wonder scattered throughout the island: remote beaches where turtles nest, a little secluded grotto of salt water and the Blow Holes on the south coast where the Indian Ocean is forced up through volcanic shafts and expelled in plumes of spray. Looking up, large frigate birds can be seen riding the ocean breeze scanning the waters below for dinner. Looking down, you might find some Brown Boobies nesting on the ground, their eggs, laid literally on what amounts to a huddle of sticks and stones. The wildlife here is so unphased by human presence you can get as close as you like to take photos…no need for a zoom lense.
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And all this in a place where, at the end of a great day’s exploring, a multicultural society offers the prospect of a great curry, an authentic Chinese dish, or good old-fashioned fish ‘n’ chips with a cold beer or a chilled chardonnay at the Golden Bosun Tavern…the best place on the island to catch the stunning Indian Ocean sunsets. www.christmas.net.au
Cocos Keeling Islands:
On the way back, a visit to the golf course offers great vistas over the ocean and the chance to see another rare specimen the red-footed boobies, a huge colony of which will live in a single tree. Take one more day to explore the water even if it’s just a snorkel off the beach at flying Fish Cove, where there are more than 200 species of reef fish in water that’s a minimum of 26°C. Other options include kayaking, fishing and scuba diving. The almost vertical drop-offs surrounding Christmas Island often give divers the opportunity to witness manta rays, whale sharks, large pods of spinner dolphins and schools of reef sharks passing by out in the deep blue as you dive the pristine fringing coral reefs.
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Cocos Keeling Islands lie 1,000 km to the south west of Christmas Island, born of an even longer-extinct volcano – one that blew itself apart millions of years ago. Now a shallow lagoon surrounded by coconut tree fringed sandy islands, Cocos is what you’d imagine of a tropical island paradise, 2,000 km away from any significant landmass, in the Indian Ocean. Start your exploration of the islands with a motorised kayak tour (that’s right motorised) no effort required. In the glowing morning light the kayaks skim over the mirror flat lagoon to a small-uninhabited island for a champagne breakfast. While sipping on sparkling wine and teasing the hundreds of hermit crabs fighting for your crumbs, your local guide will explain some of the history and natural history of the island: its Fiefdom under copra baron, John Clunies-Ross, who’s family ruled this tiny outpost for 150 years, and the islands’ significance as an early telegraphic relay station, precipitating a major naval battle in World War I. Take another day to explore the lagoon with mask and snorkel. There are shallow reefs up near the Scout Camp – a short bike ride from town or join the dive boat and snorkel the Composite Wreck – a large wooden and steel boat which acts as an artificial reef attracting more reef fish than you can name. For the thrillseeking snorkeller there’s “The Rip” on Direction Island where on the incoming tide a current will power you through a channel over reef sharks and bump-head parrotfish and out into the bay before depositing you 100m down the beach. Divers usually get more than they bargain for at Cocos too: after diving the usual sites like Cannons and Cables – named for the history
they represent, divers are treated to a show at the aptly named Service Station: where you can sit and watch reef mantas in just 9m metres of warm clear water, while they hover above a small coral bommie to be cleaned by the damsels. Another day trip across the lagoon takes you to Home Island, home of the Malays brought to the Cocos by the Clunies-Ross family centuries ago to work the plantations. They now live a more traditional life of sailing and fishing, but are always happy to demonstrate how the coconuts were harvested, hulled and how the various coconut products were extracted and used in meals. Be sure to visit on a Wednesday and stay for a feast at Rasa di Sayang – a fusion of Malay, Seychelles and European inspired food. You can also pick up a great Malay-style curry back on West Island at the Tropika Restaurant – but be sure to book – simply write you name and the number of guests on the chalkboard outside so chef knows how much to cook. If you ask a Cocos local about tomorrow’s weather, they’ll say that it’ll be pretty much the same as yesterday: 29° C and sunny, but between July and September, the trade winds stir up the normally calm waters of the lagoon, transforming it into a mecca for kite surfers.
For the less energetic, there’s always a round of golf, just be careful to check the flight times as the course is shared by the island’s airport runway. Beachcombing can also be a surprisingly satisfying experience – the variety of what’s washed-up on these isolated beaches is so remarkable a local artist has opened a gallery where all the art inside is made from what’s been found on the beaches. Check out the Big Barge Art Centre, they even do courses on how to design and create your own ‘recycled’ art. So whether you’re after an eco tourism experience, unique wildlife, a cultural experience, adventure or relaxation, you’ll probably find what you’re looking for on both Cocos and the Rock. www.cocoskeelingislands.com.au
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Destination Byron Bay, Australia
Elements of Byron Elements of Byron, the anticipated $100 million tourism, business and wellness offering provided a sneak peak to 200 invited guests at a lavish party recently and the feedback was overwhelmingly positive. “We have also been hosting overnight guests and private dinner gatherings”, said General Manager Leon Pink. “Mostly friends of the owners Brian and Peggy Flannery. It has really helped our staff to feel confident and ready.”
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ith a 10% building footprint on Byron’s most impressive beachfront site, spanning fifty acres with almost two kilometres of beach frontage on Belongil Beach, Elements of Byron stands alone in the industry. “Being privately owned by a couple who are passionate about the site, let alone the resort crafted within it, helps a lot”, said Pink. “Nothing was compromised. I’ve never really experienced another similar situation.” Brisbane identities Shane Thomson Architects and Rowena Cornwell from Coop Creative worked with Peggy Flannery (who cites Mother Nature as the project’s Creative Director) to guide the slow architecture venture. The design pays homage to the resort landscape, which encompasses critically endangered littoral rainforest and natural lakes and ponds supporting a diverse array of wildlife. The “nature first” approach led to the installation of over 65,000 new native trees and plants and single storey only spaces showcasing the nature that surrounds them. Guests and visitors are surrounded by water, fire and lush greenery as they enter through the
central reception and lobby. Three separate pavilions, whose roofs work synergistically to represent the sand dunes bounding the resort to the northeast, house most of the leisure and conference facilities. Weaving throughout is possibly Australia’s most exciting pool precinct, with an 850,000 litre infinity lagoon pool, communal fire pit, sun beds overhanging the water and a design focus on water play. Whilst always sophisticated, Rowena Cornwell’s design of the
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leisure and event interiors is upbeat and eclectic. Her brave use of colour, commissioned artworks and bespoke furnishings complement these heroic spaces and the effect is “new Byron”. “The public areas are designed for life, for interaction”, said Ms Cornwell. “A sense of wonderment was high on the agenda. I wanted to ensure that while the overall experience was relaxing, there was a good dash of excitement and magic thrown in. We are in Byron after all.”
The 94 villas (a further 96 will be built in Stage 2) represent a softer tribute to the four unique ecologies present across the site. Every aspect of design and landscaping, down to the colours, furnishings and subtle signage reflect and celebrate the dunes, rainforest, eucalypt and wetland themes. Among the artworks commissioned are a suite of paintings in oil, pigment and charcoal on jute by renowned Byron artist, Noel Hart, celebrating these ecologies. Hart has also contributed the feature work for the reception area – five asymmetrical blown glass forms depicting five Australian Black Cockatoo species, including the locally critically endangered Coastal Red-Tailed Black Cockatoo. The resort has hired in excess of 140 staff to ensure their guests receive the very best service and the positive effects of such a significant new employer in the coastal town have been profound. Open now at Elements of Byron are Graze (all day produce first dining), Drift Bar, Osprey Spa, Barefoot Bar and Kiosk, fire pit, gymnasium, state of the art conference wing catering to 450 delegates and private Beach Club opening to the sands of Belongil Beach. Staggered to open mid year is Mixed Dozen showcase dinner only experience. www.elementsofbyron.com.au
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Destination Victoria, Australia
Moonlit Sanctuary • • • •
The closest wildlife park to Melbourne to cuddle up to a koala A huge range of up-close encounters and famous lantern-lit tours Close to Melbourne’s CBD and on the way to Phillip Island Learn about protecting Australia’s endangered and threatened species
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ander around 10 hectares of Australian bushland at Moonlit Wildlife Sanctuary meeting endangered species, feeding kangaroos and wallabies, cuddling up to a koala, and enjoy up-close encounters with birds, pythons, dingoes and more. Located only a 50 minute drive from Melbourne’s CBD and on the way to Phillip Island, Moonlit Sanctuary is home to over 60 species and more than 300 animals. In 2001, owner and director, Michael Johnson, first opened Moonlit Sanctuary in the evenings to offer its renowned lantern-lit tours for visitors to get a glimpse into the fascinating activities of Australian nocturnal animals.
Following growing popularity the Sanctuary started opening its doors during the day and now welcomes more than 75,000 visitors each year from around the world. Moonlit Sanctuary offers a range of up-close experiences with Australian animals including its exclusive Behind the Scenes tour, 10 different encounters each day, nine keeper talks daily, Keeper for a Day and the popular Conservation in Action show. Many animals roam freely around the Sanctuary, including a variety of waterbirds that call Moonlit’s wetlands home, and curious and friendly kangaroos and wallabies to feed along the way.
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With around 25% of Moonlit’s species endangered or threatened with extinction, the Sanctuary plays an important role in conservation breeding programs and the reintroduction of animals into the wild. The critically endangered orange-bellied parrots, southern bettongs, spot-tailed quolls, bush stone curlews, squirrel gliders and Tasmanian devils are some of the species protected at Moonlit Sanctuary. Young visitors can learn about conservation and the environment, take part in encounters, and hear about caring for animals as part the Junior Rangers Program held every school holidays. This year marks Moonlit Sanctuary’s 15th anniversary of providing a haven for wildlife where visitors can get up-close with animals, learn about conservation, Australian species, and support the important work of breeding and reintroduction programs.
Up-close animal experiences: Join Moonlit Sanctuary’s knowledgeable keepers for a variety of animal talks held throughout
the day. Whether you want to cuddle a koala, hold a python, meet dingoes, or feed a tawny frogmouth, Moonlit Sanctuary offers a range of encounters including our exclusive Behind the Scenes tour, which offers a jampacked hour of animal experiences with one of their keepers. Book a Keeper for Day to experience the day-to-day life of a keeper. Help them feed the animals and get an insight into all the
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tasks required to keep our animals happy and healthy. At night Moonlit Sanctuary comes alive with our world-famous lantern-lit evening tours. Led by one of their keepers see tiny feather-tail gliders dart around; giant yellow-bellied gliders gracefully move overhead; and endangered quolls, Tasmanian devils, pademelons and bettongs all forage for food. www.moonlitsanctuary.com.au
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Destination Los Angeles, USA
Downtown L.A. Confidential By Shane Boocock
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f you’re going to arrive at the Ritz Carlton in downtown Los Angeles, then make sure you do it in style…in a limousine. It was a first for me and a nod and a wink better than an UBER cab, which I had also never used, but it’s a mode of transportation that is never out of the headlines around the globe lately. The Ritz-Carlton hotel name, however, is more than synonymous with exceptional service, and sophisticated style and their downtown L.A. property fits that category perfectly. The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles at L.A. LIVE is located amidst the spectacular revitalisation of downtown, only steps away from the STAPLES Center, home of the Los Angeles Lakers basketball
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The Broad - Jeff Koons artwork
Broken Spanish
The Standard - DTLA Rooftop Pool
team, the Microsoft Theatre, The GRAMMY® Museum and an amazing array of 19 dining options, and six live entertainment venues. As I soon found out, the Ritz-Carlton is a contemporary glass architectural structure that soars above the city, a sensational urban oasis providing guests with plenty of entertainment offerings and cultural experiences from food to fashion, art to opera, cinema to sports, a place you can be sure is at the core of all that epitomises downtown L.A. Los Angeles Tourism’s catch phrase refers to the downtown district as a ‘City of Cities’, offering distinct and unexpected experiences across a range of diverse neighbourhoods. I had just 48 hours to explore the area.
It had been five years since I last visited and I had been made aware how much things had changed in that short amount of time. I was booked into a room on the 23rd floor, where at one end of a long corridor was the slightly formal Ritz-Carlton ‘Club Lounge’ which offered 180 degree views of the city and beyond to the Hollywood Hills in the distance. This is one very impressive lounge to relax in over a wine. I wasn’t aware but Los Angeles it turns out has more museums and art galleries than any other city in the US, including New York, and that L.A. also displays more than 1,500 murals on walls around the city – somewhat of an impressive feat.
Newly opened is The Broad Museum (housed in an architecturally stunning landmark building) featuring a private collection of over 2,000 works of art from the likes of Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Jeff Koons and Yayoi Kusama among others. Across the street from The Broad is the Museum of Contemporary Art, which draws locals and tourists alike for its collection of works by abstract expressionists like Jackson Pollock, Jasper Johns and Andy Warhol. Emerging in what was once a warehouse wasteland, the Arts District (on the east side of downtown) is one of the hottest neighbourhoods in L.A. which is now a hub for L.A.’s young, professional and creative crowd. I soon figured out why this area is called the Arts District - as soon as I entered, I noticed every wall as far as the eye can see was painted in murals. With temperatures hovering around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, I strolled the streets in the shade of the tall buildings towards the financial district, which not surprisingly has a good number of upmarket bars and shops including Macy’s Department Store. For those in the know every Macy’s has an international visitors reception with free coffee and comfy chairs, it is also a place where you can claim your 10% discount card just by showing your passport. Hitch the card to a day when they are knocking upwards of 60% off most goods, and a shopping trip becomes a great reason to buy a second suitcase. For anyone who enjoys food then downtown L.A. will fire up your taste buds. Start with a visit to Grand Central Market, a bustling food hub that opened in 1917 (almost 100 years old). This historic downtown landmark provides L.A. with an eating experience that showcases California’s best ingredients, chefs and entrepreneurs. Here is a sampling of what you can look forward to: Sticky Rice stands out for its very small menu of fantastically executed Thai dishes. Eggslut is an institution, serving up eggs in sandwiches and burgers in more ways than you can dream of. Wexler’s smokes its meat everyday to fill its famous pastrami
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Grand Central Market
sandwiches. Bombo serves up delicious broth-based, seafood dishes cooked in steel-jacketed steam kettles and last, but not least, McConnell’s ice cream comes highly recommended – try a scoop of its Peppermint Stick. Before my Friday night out exploring the after-hours scene I was recommended a restaurant to dine in that has gained a huge following. Broken Spanish is a modern Mexican restaurant serving homely dishes that chef Ray Garcia grew up with but who transforms them into something more creative, inspiring and incredibly fresh. Ray is
The Edison Bar
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an amalgamation of the classically trained chef, born and raised in Los Angeles, but with the powerful influence of a Latin upbringing. Drawing inspiration and flavours from a diverse community, Broken Spanish offers an experience that is surprisingly unique, and an absolutely must dine experience. At the Broken Spanish meal bar locals were either drinking a Green Garden cocktail (Blanco Tequila, Belle de Brillet, Lemon, Ginger and fresh juice medley) or a Paloma Phosphate cocktail (Blanco Tequila, Grapefruit Cordial, Acid Phosphate, Sea Salt and Grapefruit Soda) with hardly a chardonnay in sight. For dinner I took the waiters recommendation and let him order for me: the first dish he served was CRUDO - Diver Scallops, Apple Cucumber and Serrano, then a dish of CHILE RELLENO - Poblano, Potato, Kale, Lemon and Soubise. This was followed by PULPO Alberjones, Chorizo, and Crema, but my favourite dish of all was steamed in a clear plastic bag, RABBIT Nopales, Bacon and Cherry Tomatos. Wander any block of downtown L.A. and you’re likely to find speakeasies, rooftop bars, warehouse eateries, craft breweries and quirky bars of every description. I started off with a cocktail at The Rooftop at
facts: Discover Los Angeles www.discoverlosangeles.com The Ritz-Carlton, at LA Live P: + 1 213 743 8800 www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/ california/los-angeles The Broad Museum P: + 1 213 232 6250 www.thebroad.org The Museum of Contemporary Art P: + 1 213 626 6222 www.moca.org McConnells PB & J Ice Cream
Broken Spanish Restaurant P: + 1 213 749 1460 www.brokenspanish.com The Edison Nightclub P: + 1 213 613 0000 www.edisondowntown.com Yard House Bar P: + 1 213 745 9273 www.yardhouse.com/locations LA Live P: + 1 213 763 5483 www.lalive.com Wilshire Limousine Services P: + 1 310 846 5147 www.wilshirelimousine.com
Ritz Carlton Rooftop Pool
The Standard, which heaved with a chic in-crowd packed tighter than a warehouse-shipping crate. It offered stunning, panoramic views of Los Angeles and the mountains beyond, along with a red AstroTurf deck, dance floor, DJs, outdoor fireplace, waterbed pods, sculptured topiary and a classic German Biergarten – what more do you need? I then went in search of Miro, a hidden whiskey bar in the heart of the financial district – a place that warmed up more than the cockles of my heart. From there I walked my way over to The Edison, a world class cocktail lounge near the far end of Main St that’s located in LA’s first private power plant – think generators, science, art and industrial artifacts in a high vaulted bunker like setting. It was a place that looked like it should be in a Terminator movie as the bartenders cranked out absinthe and
LAX Airport www.lawa.org/welcomeLAX.aspx
handcrafted cocktails to live music. I also dropped into The Varnish, a dark and moody speakeasy where mixologists constructed more custom-made cocktails. Finally, a block from my hotel I settled into a bar seat for a cleansing ale at the Yard House Bar – which was a difficult decision as they had 136 beers on tap – that’s right 136 choices on tap. Not finding a Kiwi brew I ordered an Alaska Amber Ale. In future don’t be put off visiting or staying in Los Angeles as this gateway city has great depth of character, superb architecture, stunning hotels, an entertainment district, sports arenas, museums and cutting edge restaurants and nightlife that are not that far away from Hollywood’s glitz and glamour or L.A.'s golden beaches…it’s really a great opportunity to create your own special, “Downtown L.A. Confidential Story”.
Tahiti Tourism P: + 64 9 363 3344 www.tahitinow.co.nz Air Tahiti Nui P: + 64 9 972 1217 www.airtahitinui.com/nz-en
Shane Boocock would like to thank Air Tahiti Nui and their Poerava Business Class service as well as Discover Los Angeles for assistance during his visit to Los Angeles. Air Tahiti Nui fly non-stop to Tahiti (and on to the USA) from Auckland four times a week on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday.
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Destination Hawaii, USA
Aloha Hawai’i Words and images by Tim Roxborogh
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travel writer who’d never been to Hawaii? Almost like a rugby fanatic still to see the All Blacks, I felt somehow incomplete having had these famed islands elude me. So with an invitation to see Oregon, by way of Oahu, I didn’t need to be asked twice to do a little tropical exploration enroute to the snowy hills of America’s Pacific Northwest.
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With just three nights in Hawaii before touching down in mainland USA, I wanted to cram in as much as possible. Cram I did, from beaches, both busy and deserted, lookout points, temples, movie locations, trendy downtown restaurants, jungles, volcanoes and even some cheeky karaoke, here are my best picks for a quick stop on Hawaii’s most visited island… Oahu.
1
Walk Waikiki Beach towards Diamond Head:
Passing high-rise resorts, sunbathers, surfers, surf shops, fitness-freaks, sunset cruise boats, fathers throwing baseballs to their kids, bars with Hawaiian music, palm trees and fairy-tale-like banyan trees, this three kilometre beach walk is a Hawaii must-do.
Human influence to one side, it’s still the combination of soft sand, water so turquoise it’s hard to look away and the visual exclamation point of Diamond Head (a volcanic cone) that are the greatest selling points of one of the most photographed beaches in the world.
2
Eat lunch at Kualoa Ranch:
Situated on Oahu’s north-western coast (known as the “Windward Coast”) about a 45-minute drive from Oahu, people visit this lush, mountainous, often misty corner of the island for everything from zip-lining to horseback riding to movie-location tours. Even if you don’t take an official “Hollywood’s Hawaii Back Lot” tour, you can still visualise scenes from Jurassic Park (not to mention countless TV shows like Lost, Hawaii Five-0 etc.) while craning your neck at Oahu’s very cinematic, steep, jungle-draped mountains.
3
Hike the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail:
Americans don’t go on bush-walks, they go on “hikes”. And while there wasn’t much in the way of bush on the way to this lookout, calling it a “hike” seemed like over-egging it a little. A 3.2 kilometre return trip from the car park (itself a 30-minute drive
Eternity Beach
Pali Lookout
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east of Waikiki), most of the walk is paved and with an easy incline. The views to the ragged, enormous Koko Crater were some my favourite in Oahu; the views down to Rabbit Island and the crashing blue waves and white sands of Makapu’u Beach not far behind.
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Snorkel Hanauma Bay:
The advice everybody (from returning tourists to locals) gives about Hanauma Bay is the same… arrive early. A 25-minute drive from Waikiki, Hanauma Bay is worth it just for the photos you can get from the cliff-top lookout. From there you can gauge whether there are too many fellow snorkellers churning up the waters. While the coral apparently doesn’t pop with quite as much vitality as before, this is still Oahu’s most easily accessed spot for good snorkelling.
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Koko Head
Simulate The ‘From Here To Eternity’ Kissing Scene:
Younger movie fans may recognise it from the Drew Barrymore/Adam Sandler comedy 50 First Dates (2004), but this beach – officially named Halona Cove – is still so associated with From Here To Eternity (1953) that it often gets called “Eternity Beach”. Located halfway between Hanauma Bay and Makapu’u Point, this is a small beach, walled-in by jagged rocks. The waves can be mighty so any Burt Lancaster/ Deborah Kerr impersonations need to be done with care. Fun fact: that unforgettable kiss on the beach as the tide splashed over Lancaster and Kerr lasted only six seconds in the movie.
6
Drive To The Pali Lookout:
Often buffeted by Wellington-like winds, Pali Lookout in Nu’uanu (20-minute drive northwest of Waikiki) is perched 361m above the town of Kane’ohe. Mountains, jungle and urbanisation stretch out for miles.
7
Sing Karaoke:
Free karaoke! Right by the beach! As someone with a mild addiction to singing in public, I’d heard rumours Hawaii was a good place to open the lungs. Spare
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Waimea Falls
a thought for the staff at the Outrigger Reef Resort’s “Shore Bird” bar. Every night, while offering up flame-grilled barbequed delights, they are also putting up with tourists belting out their favourite songs. The food was good, the service chirpy (any staff karaoke-fatigue was well hidden) and the song selection much bigger than you ever get in New Zealand. (For the record, I entertained the fans with the Eagles’ ‘Best Of My Love’, Prince’s ‘Most Beautiful Girl In The World’ and Shawn Mullins’ ‘Lullaby’).
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Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head
Honolulu has an expanding number of trendy new restaurants and it’s easy to see why Chinatown’s Asian-fusion The Pig And The Lady is getting such rave reviews. “It’s my favourite restaurant in Honolulu!” exclaim the online write-ups and while I don’t have much to compare it against, I’m running with it. Brick industrial chic decor, signs that read “only good vibes”, outstanding service and delicious, Vietnameseinfluenced cuisine.
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Kualoa beach
Eat In Downtown Honolulu:
Swim At Waimea Falls:
An hour’s drive north of Waikiki are the quite lovely botanic gardens of Waimea Valley. Home to nearly 2,000 acres of oversized tropical plants from around the world, at the end of a one-kilometre walk are the 14m falls. Once you’re done with the falls and back at the car park, you’re right on the doorstep of some of the highest surf waves on the planet – Oahu’s North Shore (particularly if it’s winter).
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Byodo-in Temple
Get Snap-Happy At The Byodo-In Japanese Temple:
An exact half-scale replica of Kyoto’s 900-year old Byodo-In Temple, the Hawaiian 1968-built version has long been on the tourist trail. The setting alone – the jagged peaks of the Ko’olau Range are the backdrop – is enough to have you constantly reaching for your camera. Add to that the very real splendour of the architecture and gardens, not to mention a few resident peacocks, and the whole place starts to feel like a living postcard. 30-minutes drive north of Waikiki.
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Destination Nashville, USA
Songs of the South Words and images by Gary Dickson
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n 1953 a good looking young man, just 18 years old, walked in to Sun Records at 706 Union Avenue, Memphis, Tennessee to record a song…for $3.98 (his own money). It was noted in the recording studio’s log “Good ballad singer: Hold”. The song “My Happiness” didn’t exactly rock the socks off Sun’s
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receptionist, Marion Keisker, (Sam Phillips wasn’t even present at the first recording) but a year later that was set to change when Elvis Presley recorded “That’s All Right (Mama)” while messing around with guitarist, Scotty Moore and double bass player, Bill Black. By early 1956 Phillips had signed over Elvis’s contract to one Colonel Tom Parker (for a record
breaking $40,000) and the rest, as they say, is history. Presley was now recording at RCA Victor records in Nashville, Tennessee. Today, the RCA Studio tour is only accessible through the purchase of a Platinum ticket at The Country Music Hall of Fame in Downtown Nashville. The one-hour trip, in an air-conditioned van, to
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what is now called Studio B, takes you back to the halcyon days of recording music. Days when Elvis was King (when wasn’t he?), days when the likes of The Everly Brothers, Dolly Parton and Charley Pride were just starting out. With recording maestro, Chet Atkins, behind the “desk” at RCA it’s no wonder these studios put out
more hits than you and I would ever remember. Elvis was renowned for his late night recording sessions, often not even starting until he had personally had a chat with everyone and his whole entourage had been fed (with pizza usually)…then he would warm his vocals up. He was adamant the best time for recording his voice
was between midnight and 5am. In fact, the original recording of “Are You Lonesome Tonight?” was done at RCA in one take…at 4am. This and many other stories make for an enthralling hour (should be longer) at Studio B. You can sit at the same piano Elvis and Fats Domino both played: stand on the recording studio’s “sweet spot” Nashville Skyline
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(marked with a cross in blue tape on the floor); and listen to the original recording of “I will always love you” – a song that was released in 1974. The song was a tribute and a “farewell” to Porter Wagoner, Dolly Parton’s ex and mentor but one that has made her millions of dollars more after it was remade by Whitney Houston for the movie The Bodyguard. Back in Downtown, Nashville, a tour of The Country Music Hall of Fame itself can take you as long as you want. And it is what it says…a tribute to all things Country Music. Even if you’re not a huge fan the three levels of history will be enough to keep you fully ensconced – with everyone from Hank Williams, Conway Twitty, Patsy Cline, Johnny Cash, Shania Twain all the way up to Taylor Swift. You can even walk through a replica of Swift’s tour bus. And speaking of the great man (Johnny Cash) just three minutes walk from the Country Music Hall of Fame, is the Johnny Cash Museum itself. A lot more intimate (smaller) than the CMHoF it is no less impressive. Marvel at the uncountable number of gold records hanging on the wall and hear about his early days in Nashville with another legend…Bob Dylan. Dylan and Cash were friends for over 40 years. Sit in one of the listening booths and regale in the classic Cash songs…’I Walk the line’, ‘Ring of Fire’, ‘Folsom Prison Blues’ and, my favourite, recorded at San Quentin penitentiary in 1969…’A Boy Named Sue’. But Cash was also an actor, starring in many movies and TV shows, including Stage Coach and Little House on the Prairie, but what I didn’t know (and only found out at the museum) was that he also provided the voice of Homer’s Spirit Guide in an episode of The Simpsons. “One of the greatest coups of all time” according to Simpsons’ creator, Matt Groening. No visit to Nashville is complete without a visit to The Grand Ole Opry. Celebrating over 90 years of “a simple radio broadcast” this is Nashville’s number 1 attraction. It has been called the Home of American Music and Country’s Most Famous Stage, and each year hundreds of thousands of people come to hear
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Tootsie’s
Johnny Cash Museum
and see famous, and not so famous (yet) country music singers. Many more millions tune in worldwide. If you’re going make sure you book. What amazes me about cities in the “south” of the USA is the way the locals embrace the culture, people and history of music, something I’m sure would not have occurred 100
Studio B
(even 50) years ago…except through music. Perhaps one of my favourite pastimes in Nashville was to take a walk along a part of Broadway (a main thoroughfare) known as Honky Tonk Row. Like Beale Street in Memphis, or (to a lesser extent) Bourbon Street in New Orleans,
music comes out from every second door on Honky Tonk Row. Walk in, take a seat, listen for a while! Honky Tonk Central, Tootsie’s, Robert’s Western World, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville and Rippy’s Ribs and Bar, plus many, many more. There’s something for everyone. Pretty soon you’ll be talking to locals and visitors alike, all there to enjoy the music – and like the aforementioned Memphis and New Orleans locations music starts at 11am and goes “till late”. The city of Nashville is currently going through a growth spurt. People are moving from all over America, and why wouldn’t you? Great weather – great people – great music and genuine southern hospitality. I’m sure Elvis is grateful his “home” is in great hands.
Country Music Hall of Fame
facts: Country Music Hall of Fame 222 5th Avenue South Nashville 37203 P: + 1 615 416 2001 www.countrymusichalloffame.org
Johnny Cash Museum 119 3rd Avenue South Nashville 37201 P: + 1 615 256 1777 www.johnnycashmuseum.com
Grand Ole Opry 2804 Opryland Drive Nashville 37214 P: + 1 800 SEE OPRY www.opry.com
Studio B Tour Van
Union Station Hotel 1001 Broadway Nashville 37203 P: + 1 615 726 1001 unionstationhotelnashville.com
Gary flew to Nashville with the team at Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com). Delta flies daily from Sydney to Los Angeles with easy connection to many cities in the US.
Country Music Hall of Fame
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Destination Tahiti
Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa By Shane Boocock
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rriving at close to midnight in Tahiti is always a pugilistic experience. With temperatures hovering around 75 degrees fahrenheit you’ll soon learn the airport inside is not air conditioned, so the humidity is the first thing that hits you along with a bruising battle to get through the throngs of people waiting for arrivals in the main terminal hall. I had flown in from Los Angeles and by the time I fell asleep in my hotel it was near to 1 am. However, before hitting the pillow I’d put in a request to reception for a 6.30 am wake up call. My flight was at 9.50 am to Raiatea via Bora Bora. At Raiatea airport our island transport was a transfer boat moored right outside the baggage terminal – a perfect 35-minute wave riding experience to start a holiday of a lifetime at the paradisiacal Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa. As a proud Polynesian member of the Relais et Châteaux collection, Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa is located on the secluded Motu Tautau, facing the island of Taha’a on one side and amazing views of Bora Bora on the other side. The resort is not surprisingly inspired by Polynesian architecture with chic interiors in 57 stunning suites and villas. The resort also boasts three restaurants, a spa, a fitness centre, a tennis court, an open-air swimming pool, a scuba diving centre as well as a private helipad. The island of Taha’a, formerly called Uporu, is located in the Society Islands (as are the islands of Bora Bora, Huahine, and Maupiti) and shares the same lagoon with the island of Raiatea. Raiatea is known as the Sacred Island and played a major role in Polynesian migrations throughout the Pacific keeping an important historical and cultural aura of a civilisation with thriving Polynesian traditions. ‘Marae Taputapuatea’, one of the largest ancient stone temples in French Polynesia remains a major attraction in Raiatea. Taha’a is however symbolically called the Vanilla Island. It is on these fertile lands that Tahitian vanilla is cultivated becoming one of the best and most fragrant plants, sought after by the best culinary chefs around the world. Le Taha’a Island Resort first opened in 2002 and today boasts in total 45 over-the-water villas, a Tahitian trademark for many resorts, as well as 12 beachfront villas that offer twice the area for less than half the price of the over-the-water villas. So what do you get for your money and let’s be honest in New Zealand dollars you’ll need to budget accordingly. This resort offers over-the-water villas with either sunrise views over the shallow waters across to the main island of Taha’a, or reverse vistas back over the resort watching the sunset, however both over-the-water villas are priced differently yet both are 90 sqm in size. One of the unique features in each villa is that at the end of every bed is the oblong glass observation platform that allows daytime and nightlight viewing, a glimpse of what’s swimming beneath you as you lay on your bed.
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In contrast the beachside villas are 180 sqm and include a few unique features that the over-the-water villas don’t have. First there is direct beach access both from your bedroom, main entrance and lounge, which are all separated. Then there is an outdoor plunge pool, a covered cabana with table and chairs, an additional access point to the beach and to the left of the patio front door, a private outdoor shower, with wait for it, a sunken bathtub. One thing that you won’t get in any of the rooms is free Wi-Fi, but that is due to be amended in 2017, yet in all honesty it will never be the fastest and most efficient service due to the island’s remote location. Currently free Wi-Fi is only available in the reception area, but hey you’re on vacation right, due you really need to log on every day? Since I was last here about six years ago the resort has added a state of the art fitness room, some additional spa treatment rooms, special spa options and a few additional personal touches that will make your stay that more enjoyable. When making a booking, be sure you or your travel agent know what room type, in what part of the resort, you are considering booking, especially if it is a beachfront villa as the walk from the furthest away villa (number 49) will take between 7-10 minutes to get to reception and even longer to get to the swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Le Vanille, is the main restaurant, and is open for breakfast and dinner. Suspended among the trees, you’ll enjoy peaceful views of the Taha’a lagoon and the property’s lush gardens. Dinner menus here offer a wide selection of local and international specialties. La Plage ‘al fresco’ restaurant by the swimming pool and right on the beach is open for lunch only. The chef’s specialties include some delicious fresh salads, tasty grilled fish or meat, sashimi and of course Tahiti’s well renowned ‘poisson cru’, a salad of raw tuna marinated with vegetables, lime juice and freshly squeezed coconut milk. The Beach Bar, ‘Manuia Bar’, takes over for light snacks once La Plage closes.
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facts: Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa P: + 689 40 608 403 www.letahaa.com Tahiti Tourism P: + 64 9 363 3344 www.tahitinow.co.nz Air Tahiti Nui P: + 64 9 972 1217 www.airtahitinui.com/nz-en Shane Boocock would like to thank Air Tahiti Nui and their Poerava Business Class service as well as Tahiti Tourism for assistance during his visit to Tahiti. Air Tahiti Nui fly non-stop to Tahiti from Auckland four times a week on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday.
Finally Ohiri Restaurant is the resort’s gourmet dining option with just six tables available, the setting is perfect for a romantic dinner. Here the chef delights diners with some creative French-Polynesian fusion cuisine, not to mention a selection of the best fine wines available in the islands! Once a week, on Tuesday, a ‘Polynesian Evening’ at Le Taha’a pays homage to Polynesian culture and traditions…a buffet featuring Tahitian delicacies and international options, as a local trio serenades diners during dinner. Music and dances and a not-to-be missed fire dance are the highlight of the evening. Fire dance shows can, most of the time, be seen only at festivals or big events. However, at Le Taha’a, Tavita, one of Tahiti’s best fire dancers, also known as one of the most tattooed men in French Polynesia, performs each week. Typical guests who book in here are a combination of approximately 35% Americans, 15% French, 15% Italian, 10% Japanese and the other 25% is a mixture of holiday makers from all around the world – so be sure you brush up on your French a little as it is always with a smile that the locals on the island will say ‘bonjour’ when you pass each other.
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A sojourn in Taha’a is an experience out of the ordinary. The island itself is blessed with lush mountains and valleys, turquoise lagoons, virgin “motu” islets which, to describe it in one word…unspoiled! Diverse, pristine, welcoming, are other adjectives that would define the island. The Vanilla Island has kept this Polynesian flair, and its inhabitants share a way of life that has remained truly authentic, away from the hustle and bustle of Tahiti…fishing, vanilla, pearl farms, agriculture and tourism are part of the daily lives of the inhabitants who live here. For guests there are options galore to consider when staying at Le Taha’a Resort: snorkeling, kayaking, windsurfing, paddle boards, diving, sport fishing, jet skis, catamaran cruises or just plain relaxing by the pool with a cocktail. There are also half and full day excursions on quad bikes or by Jeep with visits to a pearl farm, a vanilla production estate, swimming with black tip reef sharks and stingrays. Yes these are the ones with dangerous tail spears that can injure you, but to be honest I combined all three in one full day excursion and it was one of the highlights of my visit to Tahiti and Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa.
Maeva Bienvenue Welcome.
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Destination Tahiti
Vahine Private Island Resort By Shane Boocock
The first thing I noticed as I stepped out on to my private deck, just a metre from the shallow waters on the edge of the lagoon, were five leopard rays circling each other, cavorting it seemed? I was later told, you don’t see them this close to shore unless they are mating! Well that was an unexpected start to my stay at Vahine Island Resort.
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hirty-five minutes away by private boat transfer from the main airport at Raiatea is the 23-acre Vahine Island Resort, a place that can easily hold its own against the bigger and more well equipped Tahiti island resorts. As it’s name suggests, Vahine Private Island Resort is a slice of island paradise owned by a Frenchman and his Tahitian wife for the past 20 years, so I was looking forward to some old French charm with traditional Tahitian touches… and I wasn’t to be disappointed. Just three Beach Bungalows, three Deluxe Beach Suites and three Overwater Bungalows comprise the total of nine accommodation options here. That is where the island’s seclusion offers almost your own private getaway, something the other island resorts can’t really offer. But if you’re expecting a swimming pool and swim-up bar then you’ll be disappointed, but if you fancy eating in a 20 seat restaurant, drinking in a hand-built cozy beachfront bar, snorkelling in the crystal clear lagoons and sampling a different pre-set menu every night – then this place might just fit the bill. I was staying just two nights but I’d wish it had been longer. On my first day I met Scott and his daughter Nicola from Valencia, California who had booked in for 10 nights, five nights in a Beach Bungalow and five nights in an Overwater Bungalow.
Located right by the lagoon and its preserved coral gardens, the Beach Bungalow features a view of rare beauty. The ocean waves rolling on the reef offer a unique spectacle, contrasted with the serenity of the lagoon. The charming and comfortable room is elegantly decorated with natural material as well as local handiwork. The spacious deck outside features a hammock and two sunbeds, promising the most relaxing time and breathtaking sunsets over Bora Bora. They offer a capacity of two people in either King or Twin beds. Deluxe Beach Suites are located by the lagoon with idyllic views of the sea and its coral gardens. Inside the room, guests will find total comfort and privacy thanks to the additional lounge area including a sofa, a coffee table and two armchairs. Outdoors, one deck faces the verdant coconut grove. A second more spacious deck, half covered with a hammock, two sunbeds and chairs, guarantees you will totally unwind while admiring the lagoon and views of Bora Bora. They offer a capacity of three people (with the possibility for one additional person in the existing sofa) - King bed only. With the panoramic views of the lagoon’s crystal blue waters, the Overwater Bungalows provide a unique experience. The rooms offer a magical ambiance with its aquatic table that opens up in order to feed and admire the sea life below.
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At night, a light illuminates the table offering a dream vision of exotic fish and gentle lapping waves. Outside, a spacious private deck ensures “Farniente” time with two sunbeds and chairs, as well as a relaxing “Siesta Spot” by the shaded hammock. They offer a capacity of two people in either a King or Twin beds. The island’s only restaurant is adjacent to the beach with views of the turquoise blue lagoon. The talented French Chef offers fresh and modern cuisine, flavoured with local touches. On my first night the restaurant was full with guests tucking into a new culinary creation, as every evening, in a refined ambience, is a new 3-course set menu that delivers dishes as beautiful to contemplate, as they are delicious to savour and devour. The chef presented an entrée of seared tuna followed by a main course of salmon and emperor fish with roasted shrimp in coconut milk accompanied by fresh vegetables. The resort offers numerous on-property activities such as complimentary snorkelling in three coral gardens, sea kayaking, stand-up paddle boards, Polynesian pirogues, weaving or coconut demonstrations, windsurfing, beach games of volleyball and badminton, board games and a reading area. Available (at a fee): Half or full day tour of Taha’a by Jeep and boat with traditional lunch, a visit to a vanilla plantation and a pearl farm, or jet ski, rent a boat, or go deep-sea fishing in the lagoon. In Raiatea there are trekking adventures as well as a visit to the archaeological remains of the Maori Marae Taputapuatea.
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I opted for a full day tour, which started at 8 am and finished about 5 pm. After a five minute boat transfer we were met by two jeeps and their drivers. Tama was the head guide who was born in Tahiti but had spent a good deal of time overseas in Canada, so his English was excellent. In our Jeep there were a mixture of nationalities; a couple on honeymoon from Barcelona in Spain, a French couple living in Geneva, and a mother, Valentine and her daughter, Telma from Paris. The first stop was a visit to a commercial Tahitian pearl farm. The island of Taha’a is home to the only true working pearl farm in the Society Islands, producing the famous Tahitian black pearls of exceptional quality. Most Tahitian pearls that are identified as “black” are actually charcoal grey, silver, or dark green. An advantage of the Tahitian pearl is that the oyster inside of which they grow is quite large, sometimes weighing as much as 10 pounds. This means that a Tahitian pearl easily grows to a larger-than-average size. The culturing process involves an expert grafter, who inserts a bead made from a mollusc shell that is imported from the Mississippi River into the reproductive organ of the mollusc. It takes two years for an oyster to mature enough to begin producing pearls. Inserted with the bead is a piece of mantle tissue from a donor mollusc. The materials used in the process are organic, to decrease the probability of the oyster rejecting the nucleus. The picturesque island of Le Taha’a is known as “The Vanilla Island” for the lush vanilla plantations and the pervasive aroma of vanilla that perfumes the air. Over 80% of the vanilla cultivated in French Polynesia comes from Le Taha’a. One of our stops before lunch was to visit a vanilla farm, where it was surprising to learn that only saffron is more expensive per kilo than vanilla – just US$ 600.00 per kilo! We had one more adventure lined up as we left the Jeeps behind and boarded a boat that took just 15 minutes to arrive at the outer edge of the lagoon. It was time to snorkel with sharks and stingrays.
facts: Vahine Private Island Resort P: + 689 40 65 67 38 www.vahine-island.com Tahiti Tourism P: + 64 9 363 3344 www.tahitinow.co.nz Air Tahiti Nui P: + 64 09 972 1217 www.airtahitinui.com/nz-en Shane Boocock would like to thank Air Tahiti Nui and their Poerava Business Class service as well as Tahiti Tourism for assistance during his visit to Tahiti. Air Tahiti Nui fly non-stop to Tahiti from Auckland four times a week on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday.
In the shallow waters there were roughly 20 to 30 mature black-tip reef sharks and about five stingrays. They really seemed oblivious to our presence as they circled back and forth under or around the boat for about 10 minutes or so. It was only once we were all safely on board that the feeding frenzy began when the hungry predators began fighting over the slabs of raw meat thrown into the water by the skipper. Lunch was nearby on a small ‘Motu’ or island where, unlike the
sharks and stingrays, we didn’t have to fight over slabs of meat. There was a hearty layout of oven-baked bread, rice, pork and vegetable stir-fry, ham in spaghetti, fish curry and of course poisson cru served with pineapple. After one last snorkelling trip it was back to our Vahine island paradise and another French-style dinner over a glass of fine French red wine! Believe me, days don’t get much better than this when visiting Tahiti’s famed Society Islands.
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Destination Solomon Islands
A Tropical Island Paradise and WWII museum Words and images by Deborah Dickson-Smith
From the air, the Solomon Islands archipelago looks like a tropical island paradise‌and it is. Scuba divers and surfers come from the far corners of the globe to explore its pristine coral reefs and uncrowded surf breaks.
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ut 75 years ago, this was the scene of WWII’s most prolonged military campaign in the Pacific. Up close, the remnants and memories of that bloody war are still etched deeply into the landscape of this beautiful country, above and below water, and it makes for a fascinating holiday exploration. The Solomon Islands WWII campaign ran for over six months, with heavy casualties on both sides. The Allies suffered over 7,000 deaths, the Japanese over 20,000…along with in excess of 60 ships and 1,200 aircraft. In fact there are so many warships at the bottom of the narrow strait between the island of Guadalcanal and the Savo and Florida Islands, that its name was changed from Savo Sound to Iron Bottom Sound. On land, the jungles are still littered with the wrecks of aircraft, artillery and vehicles. In 2017, the island nation will celebrate the 75th anniversary of the historic battle of Guadalcanal. Here are just a few Solomon Islands war stories.
The Bonegi’s, Guadalcanal: Now commonly known as Bonegi 1 and Bonegi 2, these two Japanese wrecks, both transport vessels, are a short wade into the water on two adjacent beaches a short drive west of Honiara. The Hirokawa Maru and the Kinugawa Maru were two of a total 11 Japanese transport ships attacked on their way to Guadalcanal on the 14th November 1942. They were bombarded from land and sea. Bonegi 1, a 156m long wreck, now lies with the remains of her bow in about 5m and her stern in 60m of water, covered in hard and soft corals and literally teeming with life.
I-1 Japanese Submarine, Guadalcanal: Royal New Zealand Navy corvettes HMNZS Moa and Kiwi sank this enormous submarine, almost 100m long, in January 1942. The Kiwis dropped depth charges, which brought the sub to the surface and a battle between the three ships then ensued during which time the Kiwi rammed the I-1 three times. The I-1 eventually ran aground on the reef near the village of Tambea, where it remains today. It’s in such shallow water you can snorkel parts of it.
Vilu War Museum, Guadalcanal:
Coral bush at Twin Tunnels
A few kilometres west of Honiara this unassuming little outdoor museum has an impressive collection of wrecks and wartime memorabilia including American and Japanese planes and heavy artillery, neatly arranged in a beautifully landscaped garden.
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The Catalina and the Wildcat, Tulagi Island: This American Catalina sank rather unceremoniously in 1943 after hitting a small boat on the surface and now sits in 35m of water near Tulagi Island. The wreck was only discovered three years ago by the NZ Navy, so she’s more or less intact, unlike other wrecks that have been pillaged over the years since the war ended. Another recent discovery here (also by Kiwis), is the wreck of a Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat, dubbed the Gavutu Wildcat, which is believed to be the aircraft of 1st Lt. James E. Swett, one of the US Marine Corps most decorated pilots.
Peter Joseph WWII Museum, Munda:
Cockpit and propellor at Airacobra Wreck
The curator of this WWII museum, Barney Poulson, has been collecting memorabilia since 2002. The museum is named after his first find, dog tags belonging to one Corporal Peter Joseph. In fact there are piles of dog tags here, sitting among neatly ordered stacks of hand grenades, guns, bullets, Coke bottles and mess kits.
The Dauntless, Munda: The wreck of the Douglas SBD Dauntless, sits on a sandy bottom in the shallow waters of Rendova Lagoon near Munda. It’s covered with soft and hard corals and teeming with life. According to legend, or rather, according to our
Vilu War Museum Guadalcanal
dive guide, the American pilot and the Japanese fighter who shot him down, reunited here for a dive… by sheer coincidence, and have remained in touch ever since.
Alfie’s Jeep, Munda: Munda, much like the rest of the Solomons, is full of characters, and Alfie is another great example. Alfie Rex Lay found a WWII Jeep rusting in the jungle, and has lovingly restored it to working order, using parts also salvaged from the jungle. If you’re lucky, he’ll take you for a ride in it.
The Hellcat, Gizo: Gizo’s F6F Hellcat was named “Betsy” after the pilot’s wife. It was
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Entrance marker at WWII Museum
ditched in January 1943, after being shot by a Japanese fighter pilot, in very shallow water off the coast of Kolombangara Island in Gizo. It now lies in less than 9m of water and is covered in soft and hard corals.
JFK’s misadventures at Kennedy Island, Gizo: While the correct name for this island, which sits between popular dive resort, Fatboys and the rather imposing Kolombangara Island, is Kasolo Island, locals call it Plum Pudding Island and most Western
Guns in the jungle
visitors call it Kennedy Island, after its brush with U.S. presidential fame. During WWII, torpedo boat PT-109, captained by former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, was rammed and wrecked here by Japanese Destroyer, Amagiri in August 1943. Kennedy and his crew were rescued when Australian coast watcher, Arthur Evans, who manned a secret observation post at the top of Kolombangara Islands’ Mt. Veve volcano, spotted the explosion and sent a rescue party. One of the rescuers, a local called Eroni
Kumana, has erected a small shrine to Kennedy, which still stands. Today it’s a pretty spot for a picnic, surrounded by a beautiful coral reef.
The Toa Maru, Gizo: This massive wreck of a Japanese freighter is over 140m long and lays just 100m offshore near Gizo Island. It’s one of the largest and most impressive wrecks in the Solomon Islands. Some of its cargo still remains, including sake bottles, vials of medicine and a jar of condoms!
facts: Where to stay: Honiara: The Heritage Park Hotel has well-appointed rooms, a great pool, and one of the best restaurants in town. The Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel has a pool, bar and two restaurantsMunda: Agnes Lodge has 16 well-appointed bungalows, half a dozen singles rooms and some dormitories. It’s a 2-minute walk from the airport (like most of the town) and you’ll find Dive Munda on the grounds of the resort.
Diver above the engine at Hellcat Wreck
Gizo: Fatboys Resort is located on Mbabanga Island, an 8-minute boat ride from Gizo’s main town and airport. The resort is made up of 12 or so bungalows, all with stunning views of Kolombangara and Kennedy islands. www.visitsolomons.com.sb
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s u o r u t n e v d A So Explore the hidden paradise of the South Pacific archipelago, comprising of a vast group of 922 breathtaking tropical islands. Diving in the Solomon Islands has gained an enviable worldwide reputation that is unsurpassed.
Experience the abundance of World War II history, via the Solomons numerous wreck dives. Get up close to the extraordinary array of differing reef structures and bio-assemblage.
If you are not a diver, but interested in learning, there could be no better place to discover this completely new world, than the warm crystal clear waters around the Solomon Islands.Throughout these magic islands is an endless variety of dive sites to suit all tastes and levels of experience.
With worldclass dive sites in Honiara, The Floridas, Iron Bottom Sound, Gizo, Munda, Western Marovo and Eastern Marovo the Solomon Islands are sure to provide a dive experience like no other.
For more inFormation contact: Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau Head Office PO Box 321, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands call (677) 22442 or email info@sivb.com.sb
SO www.visitsolomons.com.sb SOLOMONS, SO DIFFERENT! visitsolomons.com.sb
Business Section Abercrombie & Kent 90 Wrapt Weaving 96 Etihad Airways 9 8 Hotel Wyndham 1 02 Royal NZ Yacht Squadron 104 Camping 106 Contributors 110 New Products/Giveaways 112
Australia, Hamilton Island www.letstravelmag.com 89 New Caledonia
Abercrombie & Kent’s Luxury Cruise Tours
Norwegian Fjords & Iceland
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THE CONCEPT:
These are specially designed itineraries which combine a luxury cruise with exclusive A&K land programmes that include extensive and expert guided touring. All journeys include return economy class international flights from Australia. INTIMATE GROUPS:
To allow you to properly connect with your destination, we have limited the size of these groups to 24 guests. This means you travel with a manageable number of others in smaller vehicles, have better access to your guide and escort and can access places which are off limits to larger groups. We’ll also guarantee all departures once a minimum of two guests is reached. EXPERT PERSONNEL:
Each cruise tour has an Australian Tour Director who accompanies the group from start to finish. These individuals are well qualified and personable with years of experience leading small groups. They are on hand 24/7 to assist with any guest requirements throughout the journey and are joined during A&K exclusive land arrangements by expert local guides whose knowledge of the city or region visited is second to none. HAND-PICKED ACCOMMODATION:
Luxurious well-located boutique hotels have been hand-selected on these journeys. They range from a Costa Rican eco-lodge in a tropical cloud forest to a 13th century Italian castle and a quirky log-style Icelandic lodge. Each is full of character with outstanding food, great views and top-notch service with room standards consistent throughout. On each luxury cruise we include upgraded cabin types, all with balconies so you can enjoy supreme comfort and make the most of each day’s outstanding views. TIME TO TAKE STOCK:
We’ve designed our cruise tours to be well paced, so you don’t return home needing another holiday. We’ve even included time at leisure so you can explore the destination on your own, shop for mementos or simply relax and enjoy your surrounds. ADDED EXTRAS:
Each cruise tour includes à la carte breakfast daily, all meals during cruises and a number of authentic local dining experiences giving you the chance to sample fresh produce and the local cuisine. Special welcome and farewell dinners including wine are a highlight. These are wonderful opportunities to meet your fellow travelling companions at the start of the trip and relive fond experiences at the end. All tipping is included (except the Tour Director) which avoids having to make those awkward calculations at every stop.
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Norwegian Fjords & Iceland
Journey Highlights:
Norwegian Fjords & Iceland
Norwegian Fjords Cruise & Iceland NORWAY, SWEDEN & ICELAND | 18 Days | Norway Land Touring (2 days) - Norwegian Fjords Cruise (8 days) Iceland Land Touring (7 days) This cruise tour takes you to the heart of northern Europe’s most breathtaking landscapes. From Oslo, you discover the beauty of the Norwegian fjords on a luxury cruise with Ponant visiting extraordinary World Heritage sites, charming towns and villages, dramatic waterfalls,
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soaring mountain vistas and nature unspoiled. Equally scenic, Iceland delivers drama aplenty. Small and compact, all the highlights are easily accessible in under a week as we travel from the charming and colourful capital, Reykjavik, to the remote south shore and the volcanoes, geysers and waterfalls of the Golden Circle region. Experience paddock-to-plate cuisine, an organic farm, memorable meals and lovely boutique accommodation throughout.
• Group size of no more than 24 guests • A&K Australia Tour Director travels with group • A guided walking tour of Oslo • 8 day Norwegian Fjords cruise • Upgraded cruise accommodation with your own private balcony • Economy class international flights included • Walking tour of the World Heritage listed Bryggen wharf in Bergen • 7 days exclusive land touring in Iceland • Toast the Midnight Sun with cocktails on Iceland’s south shore • A jeep adventure tour of glaciers, mountains, birch forests and valleys • Black sandy beaches, Basalt Sea stacks and awe-inspiring waterfalls • An introduction to the tough and hardy Icelandic horse • Stunning landscapes of the Golden Circle • Unique food experiences in out-of-the-way locations Dates & Pricing:
12 – 29 June 2017 Le Soléal Prestige Deck 4 cabin Twin Share Per Person: From $21,995 Single Supplement: From $6,295 Price is inclusive of international economy flights from MEL/SYD/BNE
Italy & Croatia
Culture, Cuisine and Cruising from Italy to Croatia ITALY, CROATIA & MONTENEGRO | 16 Days | Italy Land Touring (7 days) – Ponant Croatia Cruise (8 days) From the city of Venice, its lagoons, artistic masterpieces and lesser known sites to the charming Friuli region in Italy’s northeast, this journey starts and ends with an immersion in Italian culture and cuisine. Special gourmet experiences are included as well as in-depth visits to some unexpected sights from the ancient Roman, Byzantine and Renaissance eras. There’s also a visit to the Venice Biennale with a specialist art guide to point out the exhibition highlights. Combining perfectly with a week in Italy is a cruise along Croatia’s Dalmatian coast on board Ponant’s magnificent Le Lyrial. This sophisticated luxury yacht is the ideal vessel from which to explore the ancient ruins and timeless cities where a full range of shore excursions are included. Journey highlights:
• Group size of no more than 24 guests • A&K Australia Tour Director travels with group • Gourmet food and wine
Italy & Croatia - Le Lyrial
experiences in northern Italy • Guided touring of Renaissance Palmanova, Roman Aquileia and the medieval abbey of Sesto al Reghena • A morning at Venice Biennale with a specialist art guide • Elegant, well located hotel accommodation in Italy • Upgraded cruise accommodation with your own private balcony • Walking tours of Korcula Island, Split, Dubrovnik and Pula • A kayak adventure in Kotor, Montenegro and biking on the island of Hvar
• Venetian highlights – Accademia Gallery, the Scuola di San Rocco and the Frari Church • Cocktails at Harry’s Bar and a tour of Venice’s bacari • Economy class international flights Dates & Pricing
10 – 25 May 2017. Le Lyrial Prestige Deck 4 cabin Twin Share Per Person: From $17,995 Single Supplement: From $7,395 Price is inclusive of international economy flights from MEL/SYD/BNE
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Costa Rica Amazon Caribbean Tortuga Lodge
Costa Rica, Amazon & the Caribbean Isles CENTRAL AMERICA | 27 Days | Costa Rica (8 Days) – Brazilian Amazon Land Touring (2 Days) – Amazon & Caribbean Cruise (14 Days) This exclusive springtime journey has been specially designed by A&K and charts a fascinating route from Costa Rica to Brazil and into the Caribbean. Starting in one of the most biodiverse nations on the planet the quality and range of ecotourism experiences included in Costa Rica are simply breathtaking with visits to important national parks, rainforests, waterfalls and charming rural communities. The journey continues into the Brazilian Amazon and the world’s most incredible rainforest ecosystem. The 16 days aboard Seabourn Quest is a sophisticated boutique cruise experience from the Amazon River to Brazil’s Atlantic coastline and on to the Caribbean in spacious surrounds, with full amenities, and highly personalised service sure to deliver the ultimate holiday. Journey Highlights
• Group size of no more than 24 guests • A&K Australia Tour Director travels with group • 8 day exclusive land touring package in Costa Rica
94 www.letstravelmag.com Luxury Travel
Costa Rica Amazon Caribbean Seabourn
• The major attractions of Costa Rica’s capital, San José • Canopy touring and volcano viewing in Costa Rica • Audience with an orchid collector • Hands-on cooking and culinary experiences • Jungle walking the Brazilian Amazon and swimming with dolphins • 2 day exclusive land touring package in the Brazilian Amazon • 16 day luxury cruise from the Amazon to Florida • Economy class international flights included • Upgraded cruise accommodation with your own veranda
Dates & Pricing
7 March – 2 April 2017 Seabourn Veranda Suite V2 cabin Twin Share Per Person: From $29,995 Single Supplement: From $10,930 Price is inclusive of international economy flights from MEL/SYD/BNE For more information, call 0800 441 638 or your travel agent. www.abercrombiekent.com.au/ exclusivecruisetours
New Product
Wrapt Weaving helps busy corporate event and travel planners stand out by supplying absolutely unique, handcrafted gifts that represent a genuine piece of New Zealand. Weaver, Jenni Shah, designs and creates intricately hand-woven artisan wraps and scarves for VIPs and special guests. Jenni’s pieces are inspired by native birds and crafted from luxurious New Zealand mohair, alpaca, possum and merino yarns with feather-like highlights and motifs reminiscent of Maori taniko (traditional weaving). The range includes wraps, traditional & infinity scarves and throw blankets. Lightweight and easily carried, these beautifully presented exquisite gifts will create an enduring reminder of a visitor’s time and experience in New Zealand. www.wraptweaving.com
P: + 61 (0) 27 272 8018 Jenni Shah
96 www.letstravelmag.com Business, New Product
The World’s Best Kept Secret
SPA XURY VILLAS & TE MANAVA LU a, 5 Star Muri Beach, Rarotong
PACIFIC RESORT AITUTAK “World’s Le I ading Boutiq ue Resort”, 5 star
PACIFIC RESORT RAROTONGA Muri Beach, Rarotonga, 4 Star
Discover the Cook Islands! www.pacificresort.com
Abu Dhabi First Class lounge & spa Etihad Airways has officially opened its new flagship First Class Lounge & Spa at Abu Dhabi International Airport’s Terminal 3. The spectacular new space showcases the airline’s commitment to providing unparallelled and aspirational hospitality experiences.
Inspired by the world’s most prestigious hotels, private members’ clubs and fine dining establishments, the lounge is an ultra-exclusive lifestyle environment which tells the airline’s acclaimed guest experience and hospitality story with unrivalled design, style and comfort, world class dining, and bespoke beauty and relaxation services. The lounge features 16 unique zones designed to ensure that guests can relax, re-energise and be entertained in total luxury before boarding their flight. An à la carte restaurant, showcase bar, fitness room, cigar lounge, Six Senses Spa, Style & Shave hairdresser, nail bar, TV room, secluded relaxation room, prayer room and children’s play room ensure that all guests receive a highly personalised experience and intuitive service.
Peter Baumgartner, Etihad Airways’ Chief Executive Officer, said: “Our new First Class Lounge & Spa is the jewel in the crown of our new lounge offerings worldwide and represents the best of our home city of Abu Dhabi. It is a showcase of
98 www.letstravelmag.com Airline, Etihad Airways
intelligent product design, innovation and superlative hospitality and service. This is not just a lounge but the ultimate airline hospitality experience and one which perfectly mirrors Etihad Airways’ evolution into the best airline in the world.
“Continuing our journey of innovation, this new dedicated First Class environment demonstrates our on-going commitment to developing world-class products as we continue to reimagine travel.” Measuring approximately 1,700 m² and boasting expansive views of the airport, the new facility is open round-the-clock for the exclusive use of guests of The Residence, Etihad First Class, Etihad Guest Exclusive, Etihad Guest Platinum members (plus one guest), Etihad Airways Partner (EAP) airline First Class guests, EAP ‘Invitation only’ members (plus two guests) and EAP equivalent Platinum members (plus one guest). Guests of The Residence enjoy the exclusivity of their own private space discreetly located adjacent to the main lounge entrance. The secluded area boasts a dedicated Savoy-trained Butler, custom-made Poltrona Frau Italian leather armchairs and sofas, its own shower room stocked with a range of Acqua di Parma products, a prayer room, and private dining. Guests of the First Class Lounge & Spa will be attended to by a number of expertly trained staff - all of whom have undergone a rigorous selection process. The lounge features a General Manager, Concierge, Maître d’Hotel, Savoy-trained Butlers, chefs and mixologists among its highly trained
lounge team. The Executive Chef brings with him immense experience from a long career with leading hotel brands including The Ritz-Carlton, Shangri-La, and InterContinental. His team of skilled Sous Chefs, Demi Chefs, and Chef de Partie create superior haute cuisine dining served at an à la carte dining area. Menus are changed frequently and feature a choice of Arabian, Indian and international cuisine made to order at any time of day. The kitchen prepares all dining in-house using the freshest, locally sourced, seasonal produce. Guests will also be able to experience a unique five-course Emirati tasting menu, developed by chefs from Mezlai
at the prestigious Emirates Palace Hotel in Abu Dhabi. A casual dining and bar snack menu is also provided. The sculptural showcase bar, which is now a striking feature of Etihad Airways’ new collection of global lounges including the recently opened New York and Melbourne facilities, is stocked with 75 premium spirits, champagne and aperitifs. A bespoke cocktail menu has been specially developed in partnership with leading London-based beverage consultancy Fluid Movement. The signature mocktail drink is the Abu Dhabi, which uses Middle-Eastern flavours such as aromatic cold brew coffee infused with cardamom and sprayed with delicate rose water.
Airline, Etihad Airways www.letstravelmag.com 99
All mocktails and cocktails featured on the menu are one-ofa-kind and have been named after Etihad’s leading destinations including Sydney, Melbourne, New York, Shanghai, Paris, Mumbai, and London. Using ingredients inspired by these cities, cocktails and mocktails are all hand-created by specially trained mixologists, using syrups and garnishes such as candy floss and dehydrated rhubarb. The bar also offers a selection of ‘modern classics’, such as the Mach 10 Mojito. Negroni lovers will be delighted to know their favourite aperitif is mixed, barrelled and aged behind the bar. The cigar lounge provides a choice of nine premium brands including Hoyo de Monterray, Cohiba, Bolivar, Montecristo, Arturo Fuente and Romeo Y Julieta from its own humidor. Each has been expertly matched with a number of whiskies and cognacs.
The Six Senses Spa comprises three treatment rooms with shower facilities. First Class guests can enjoy a complimentary treatment, while guests in The Residence are offered two complimentary treatments. In keeping with a focus on health and wellbeing, the Relax & Recline area features a large video wall made up of 27 individual screens, soothing sound and lighting, and is furnished with six Poltona Frau leather recliners. The fitness room is equipped with state-of-the-art Technogym treadmills and cross trainers, and male and female washrooms and showers. The Style & Shave area is staffed by talented barbers offering a suite of hair and shave services, including one complimentary express treatment and a shoe shine service. The nail bar provides hair and nail services, including nail art, and one complimentary express treatment.
100 www.letstravelmag.com Airline, Etihad Airways
H.E. Eng. Mohamed Mubarak Al Mazrouei, Chief Executive Officer of Abu Dhabi Airports, said: “We are delighted to support Etihad Airways with the launch of their First Class Lounge at Abu Dhabi International Airport. This new facility will offer guests a truly exclusive and premium experience, and is a reflection of the continued commitment by the airline and the airport to offer the best possible services to passengers flying through the UAE capital.” From an interior design perspective, the principles of style, space and serenity are complemented by Etihad Airways’ distinctive ‘Facets of Abu Dhabi’ branding. With its geometric patterns and colour palette inspired by the UAE landscape, it is the ultimate expression of 21st century Arabian modernism. The new facility adds to the airline’s expanding collection of 14 Premium Lounges including those recently launched in Melbourne and New York, in addition to Premium Lounges in Abu Dhabi (Terminals 1 and 3), Sydney, Frankfurt, London, Manchester, Dublin, Paris, and Washington DC. At Abu Dhabi Airport, Etihad Airways also operates a dedicated Premium Lounge within the unique US Preclearance facility, and a Premium Arrivals Lounge. A new First and Business Class Lounge at Los Angeles LAX airport will follow in the coming months. www.etihad.com
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A WALKING TOUR OF MACAU
ON THE ROAD TO MOROCCO
THE MYSTERY OF PAPUA NEW GUINEA
LIVE LIKE JAMES BOND IN THE UK
GOLD COAST TRAVEL FEATURE
EUROPEAN RIVER CRUISING
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Adventures in Hong Kong The splendour of Queenstown
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Captivating Cape Town
California Dreaming
Fun on the Gold Coast Hiking the Hump Southland
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ADVENTURES ON MAGNETIC ISLAND
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ADVENTURES IN BOTSWANA
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HAWAII’S BEST KEPT SECRETS
Discover The Chatham Islands
Street Walking In Santiago
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HONG KONG’S BEST RESTAURANTS
JOURNEYING THROUGH INDIA
ISSUE 26 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2013
BOLIVIA’S HUSTLE AND BUSTLE
DISCOVER AUCKLAND’S WEST COAST
New York New York
Auckland’s Gulf Islands
Singapore The Lion City
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ESCAPE TO BRAZIL
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Classic Coromandel
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Shooting it up in Las Vegas
Thailand’s SOUTHERN JEWELS
TALOFA FROM Samoa
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WONDERS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA
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DRIVING TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND
THE NEW FACE OF
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Queensland’s Magical Isles
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Let’s Travel
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SUNSHINE COAST GOLF FEATURE
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BIKING AROUND SCENIC NIUE
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TEMPLE TOURS OF KOREA
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WILD ATTRACTIONS IN PORT DOUGLAS
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MAD HATTERS OF ECUADOR
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Lets Travel – April May 2015 issue – changes to text No 1 Cover Change the top byline to – A mile high in - Denver – delete , Colorado Swap the 2nd and 3rd bylines over as 3rd one starts to blend with orange sunset
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Spiralling down the WAITOMO CAVES
The Arid Eden NAMIBIA
AUSTRALIA Taking care of Business Ten things to do in CAPE TOWN
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THAILAND
Her best secrets
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ANAHEIM Family Fun TAHITI Luxury Cruising
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Jazz, Blues and Food
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LAKE TEKAPO Under the Stars Great Barrier Reef QUEENSLAND
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On Safari In NAMIBIA
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Natural Wonders of WESTERN AUSTRALIA
ISSUE 40 FEBRUARY-MARCH 2016
Let’s Travel
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WAIHEKE ISLAND Top things to do
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A tasty time in TAIWAN
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Gold Country CALIFORNIA
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TAIWAN Treasures
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Monumental Milford Sound
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Bonjour AKAROA
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Koh Samui Revisited
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NORFOLK ISLAND Revisited
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BOLIVIA’S Heavenly Gate
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HONG KONG Havens
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Cruising TAHITI
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Stunning SAMOA
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Bonjour NEW CALEDONIA
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NEW YORK The Big Apple
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Waitomo Underground California Wine Country
Riding on The Ghan
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ISSUE 37 AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2015
Thailand’s Top 10 Resorts
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ISSUE 36 JUNE-JULY 2015
Castro’s Cuba
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A mile high in Denver
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Taupo Adventures
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London Calling
Oman Opulence
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ISSUE 35 APRIL - MAY 2015
An Insight into the Czech Republic
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Germany’s Oktoberfest
Pacific Paradise Fiji
South Africa’s Blue Train
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Cruising Antarctica
Rocky Mountain High U.S.A
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Let’s Travel
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Walking in Memphis
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Flavours of Oman
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Luxury onboard Seabourn Cruises
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Foodie Heaven in South Australia
Stewart Island’s Natural beauty
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Let’s Travel
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Let’s Travel Let’s Travel
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Let’s Travel Argentina’s Iguazu Falls
N 5 EDIVE TH IT RS IO AR N Y
ISSUE 31 AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014
ISSUE 29 APRIL-MAY 2014
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Wyndham Garden brand debuts in NZ Reinforcing its commitment to expanding its presence in New Zealand, Wyndham Hotel Group recently announced the introduction of the upper-midscale Wyndham Garden brand to the country. New Zealand’s first Wyndham Garden hotel, scheduled to open in early 2018, will be an 86-room property in Auckland’s CBD and will offer a mix of studio rooms and one, two and three-bedroom apartments. As the gateway to New Zealand, Auckland welcomes around 75% of the country’s visitors each year. The city has also seen unprecedented growth with 1.05 million visitors in 2015, up 15% on 2014. This, coupled with a strong demand for quality accommodation in the city, means the NZD$50 million Wyndham Garden Hobson Street Auckland will be well placed to cater to the needs of travellers in the heart of the CBD. The hotel will provide excellent service, best-in-class amenities and technology, including high-speed internet access. Enabling guests to travel at ease, the Wyndham Garden brand focuses on ‘the little details’ that make a stay memorable and promises peace of mind to guests when travelling for business or pleasure. Owned by ABF Development Ltd, the new hotel will be ideally positioned within easy reach of the city’s two harbours, great dining and bars, excellent shopping and natural attractions like vineyards, beaches and native forests. Wyndham Hotel Group South East Asia and Pacific Rim President and Managing Director, Barry Robinson, said Auckland is the ideal place for the Wyndham Garden brand to enter New Zealand. “Wyndham Garden has been growing its footprint around the world, and we see Auckland as a key market for our continued growth in New Zealand thanks to its popularity as the gateway to the land of the long white cloud,” he said. “Wyndham Garden’s New Zealand
debut comes at a pivotal time for Wyndham Hotel Group as we transform our 16 iconic brands to meet the needs of today’s guest. The rise of an increasingly travel-curious population gives us the opportunity to leverage the scale and breadth of our portfolio to champion the everyday traveller by enabling their freedom to explore the world the way they want, with added value and quality experiences.” Andy Chen, Director of ABF Development Ltd, said the hotel project would provide employment for more than 500 workers during construction and more than 50 staff once operational. “This will be a major development for Auckland that will have wide-ranging benefits for the local economy,” Mr Chen said. “The Wyndham Garden brand is synonymous with quality, and we are confident it will draw in the valuable tourist dollar, while ensuring
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employment opportunities for locals.” The hotel’s facilities, including a gym, restaurant and flexible meeting spaces will be created with the finer details in mind, to make the travel experience for guests as easy as possible. Throughout South East Asia and the Pacific Rim, Wyndham Hotel Group currently has close to 100 hotels operating under its Ramada, Wyndham Hotels and Resorts®, Wyndham Garden®, Days Inn®, TRYP by Wyndham® and Microtel Inn & Suites by Wyndham® brands. All Wyndham Hotel Group properties participate in Wyndham Rewards®, the simple-to-use, revolutionary loyalty program from Wyndham Hotel Group that offers members a generous points earning structure along with a flat, free-night redemption rate. www.wyndhamrewards.com
More than just a Yacht Club The Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron is so much more than just a yacht club.
The largest of its kind in New Zealand, this iconic club is located in one the most prime locations in The City of Sails. The RNZYS has 360 degree views spanning from the Auckland Harbour Bridge across to the sunny North Shore, with full views of the City and Sky Tower, and all the way up the harbour towards West Auckland – arguably making it the most scenic club in the city, if not the entire country. They offer a very wide range of services for Members, and you do not need to be a sailor to join or to enjoy great benefits from your membership. If you live local or work in the CBD it is a great organisation to be a part of. They have a huge range of off-water activities for members, including guest speaker lunches, themed evenings, Rugby and America’s Cup viewings, superb food and beverage picnics and social get togethers – to name just a few.
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Being one of only six yacht clubs in the world to house the America’s Cup, The Squadron’s trophy cabinets carry evidence of members’ skill and prowess in major regattas both in New Zealand and overseas. The Whitbread Trophy, the Admiral’s Cup, the Kenwood Cup, the Half; One and Two Ton Cups, the Sydney to Hobart Race, the Champagne Mumm World Cup, World Match Racing Tour and Volvo Ocean Race – have all been won by Squadron representatives. The Member’s Bar is open 7 days a week with a wide range of delicious options. Their fresh and exciting daily specials menu showcases a range of dishes to cater for all tastes. Kids eat free in the weekends and it would have to be the best priced beer and wine in the city. If you’re
looking for something a little more up market, then you will find yourself in the Quarterdeck Restaurant. Situated on the upper floor and showcasing elevated views over Westhaven Marina, the Waitemata Harbour and Auckland City the Quarterdeck Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday – Friday. Discounts for members apply not only to food and drinks but fuel, clothing and events as well. On the water they have a huge range of options for members to take advantage of, including various sailing series, cruising series for sail and motor vessels alike, Learn to Sail & Learn to Race courses, as well as a brand new Fishing Division with competitions held throughout the summer months. They also offer great on-water team building
activities for any size group. This can be booked in conjunction with a conference or dinner event. The RNZYS is a very popular function facility with a large choice of spaces for any event from 2 – 400 people. They can host any type of function you have in mind, whether it be a Wedding, 21st Birthday Party, Corporate AGM meeting, Banquet Dinner, or Cocktail Party. With ample free parking, great food and great facilities, you don’t need to look any further than the RNZYS when it comes to organising your special event. As can be expected, the club has a distinctly nautical appearance that creates an unforgettable surrounding. All eight function spaces are naturally lit with superb sweeping views that include the CBD, marina and Auckland Harbour, making it one of the most unique event locations in Auckland no matter what room you utilise. The RNZYS offers excellent food and beverage facilities coupled with friendly hospitality and high service standards you would expect from a club steeped in tradition. They are always welcoming new members of all ages to the Squadron, so give them a call and arrange a time to go down and take a look – a must visit while you are in Auckland. With memberships starting from $25 per month, it is a cost effective way to be part of something very special – they are so much more than just a yacht club. www.rnzys.org.nz
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10 Great Tips for Camping with Children By Shane Boocock
How many of you remember your first camping trip? I’m sure most of you do, whether it was overnighting in an old A-frame tent at the bottom of the garden or maybe your parents dragged you along to some hippy festival, or if you were lucky, you went camping in a national park or some scenic wonderland in a stylish 1960’s Cresta caravan.
M
y camping memories from the 1960s still resonate strongly. They were the ‘good old days’…washing my face and cleaning my teeth in a cold water stream, the same stream I’d cleaned the previous night’s dishes in, the boot of the car cramped with an old kerosene lamp, a butane stove, a fold up picnic table and camp stools, a set of plastic plates and cups, or Thermos flasks of tea and waking up on an inflatable mattress that had gone flat by morning. My first outdoor camping trip was with my parents when they took me to the New Forest in Hampshire and East Dorset. I was not yet 10 years old. It was the summer holidays and my parents had driven us down from Lancashire in our two-tone black and white Hillman Minx. My parents often tended to just take to the road at short notice, packing only a small pup tent big enough for just two people, but not a restless child. As such, each night they set up an old canvas tarp from the bonnet of our car to fences or small bushes and at night I slept out in the open under a thick blanket. I often woke up at sunrise to find wild New Forest ponies sniffing my makeshift campsite…a magical experience that I’ll never forget. Camping, caravanning or campervan trips are an amazing way to disconnect from it all and truly enjoy time with nature as a family. It also makes it a very affordable way to travel since staying in tents or a vehicle combines your transportation,
lodging and restaurant meals all under one roof. If you are planning on a campervan or camping trip during the next school holidays here are some useful tips on what might make your journey with the kids in tow more enjoyable, less stressful and more educational for the whole family.
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1
Planning Your Trip Means Involving the Kids:
Give your kids a voice. In today’s internet world let them do some research online on the route you might be planning, what attractions they’d like to see, and don’t forget to let the kids make some simple suggestions such as which campsite
Rick Martin
they prefer if there is a choice, either by a lake to go fishing or in a forest to go mountain bike riding. Your kids will be far more excited if they feel they have contributed and invested some of their time and energy into the journey.
2
Have a Test Run Close to Home:
The amount of times I’ve watched families on the first night of a camping trip setting up their gear only for them to realise something important is missing. The best way to overcome this issue is to have a close-to-home camping experience. Set up the tent in the back garden or at a nearby campground to get the hang of assembling all the gear. This is the time when you’ll realise what might be still sitting in the garage, such as a hammer for the tent pegs, a water hose and container, or a dome light for inside a tent.
3
Make Campsite Reservations with Children in Mind:
On arrival make sure you point out to the family the bathrooms, store, playground etc. and most importantly what your site number is especially in a large campground. It’s often overlooked but many campgrounds today offer a variety of options for kids to keep them happy. Playgrounds are the obvious enticement for smaller children, but swimming pools appeal to all age groups. Ponds or lakes will usually be stocked with fish so check that the campground offers that choice. Petanque and volleyball are popular pastimes at many campgrounds as are climbing frames and, in America, horseshoe pitching is also a great altogether family game.
4
Gold Country - Gold Panning, Columbia State Park
Kids Often Get Bored in On Long Trips:
No matter what age your children, they often get easily distracted and bored. Pack your vehicle with indoor games such as jigsaws, playing cards, puzzles, colouring books, compact board games such as chess and draughts as well as quiz books. If that doesn’t work consider having your kids ‘under supervision’ download a few smart ‘apps’ to a tablet that may help them engage in researching
your itinerary or local attractions nearby. ‘Amazon Kindle’ is now available as an App to read books on. ‘Weather+’ is also a great tool when on a road camping trip. If you are travelling through Europe have them download the ‘Google Translate’ app to learn some important questions in a variety of languages. Road maps such as ‘Route4Me’ are not only good for children to follow and obtain directions but for adults planning a long trip with the family.
5
Unplugging Laptops and Game Consoles:
Taking the latest gadgets on holiday with you is a great way to engage your kids as long as it doesn’t lead to family disputes and
arguments, that’s why you need to set up ‘electronic boundaries’. Limit the amount of time kids can spend on mobile phones, tablets, game consoles and computers (but don’t ban it). Let them use modern technology to your family’s advantage to create and record amazing holiday memories with digital video and photography or for them to turn a trip into an online presentation they can show their class back in school. It’s also important to do things together as a family without electronic distractions unless it is for an educational reason. Keeping to the same rules you set for your kids means scheduling limited ‘screen time’ for adults as well.
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8
Pass on Your Outdoor Camping Skills:
9
Assign Kids Campsite Jobs:
Camping skills passed down from parents to offspring are what will remain with a child for life. Show the kids how to gut and fillet a trout, or how to chop kindling with an axe without splitting open their shin, or the best method to start a campfire. Pass on your best BBQ tips for cooking with foil over coals, and try and get the young ones interested in the outdoor environment such as the type of trees over their heads and fauna under their feet. Knowing what stars are in the night sky is always good knowledge to pass onto children too.
Keeping the children occupied is a must for all mums and dads. Rotate many of the menial tasks so that everyone gets a feel for life in the outdoors, whether it’s sweeping out the campervan, washing the dishes, throwing out the trash, to making checklists of what has run out such as toilet paper…but hopefully not! Build “team spirit”. Kids feel special when their contributions are seen to be important to the family as a whole.
6
Isolating your kids from the wider environment may completely backfire, so when choosing campgrounds make sure there are other attractions in the region you are visiting. Are there quirky museums, caves or caverns, miniature golf courses, adventure parks, places to go fishing, biking and hiking trails etc. As a previous adventure tour guide, I once had two families with four kids on a three week trip across America, so I chose kid friendly campgrounds and scheduled something for the children to do at every stop such as once arranging to pick strawberries less than a kilometre from our campsite.
7
10
Check Out the Region You Are Visiting:
Bring Along Additional Outdoor Games and Activities:
There is nothing more important than loading up the trailer or caravan with some fun outdoor items that all
Plan For the Unexpected:
Rain, hail, wind and unpleasant weather can ruin a camping holiday. It’s always good to have a back-up plan that covers unexpected contingencies. Make sure you know what indoor attractions are nearby. Keep you tent or caravan stocked with a few appropriate movie DVDs. Also have extra rainproof tarps at your disposal to rig-up a dry canopy area where they can play under. Just giving them the extra space might be all that it takes. the family can enjoy. Pack some of their favourite sports gear such as football and rugby balls, a softball and bat or a cricket ball, wickets and bat, fishing rods, reels and tackle, skateboards, and beach toys will all make the art of camping that much sweeter. The idea is to make sure your kids feel comfortable even when they are hundreds of kilometres from home.
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Finally remember to have fun on your next camping adventure. Camping in the great outdoors is to experience life close to nature. Not everything will be smooth going, dry or relaxing but with proper planning and good execution a family camping holiday will be memorable long after your kids have grown into adulthood…and you’ve grown into retirement.
EVENTS
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CORPOR ATE
WEDDINGS
Over the past seven years we have had the pleasure with working with over 50 great travel writers who have contributed to the pages of Let’s Travel magazine. Without them we wouldn’t have been able to bring such a diversity of destinations within our pages. Mark Daffey
Mark Daffey is a Melbourne-based travel writer and photographer whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines across the globe. He edited the Emirates Airline in-flight magazines in Dubai and his photos have been published in over 50 countries via the Getty Images, Alamy, Lonely Planet Images and Zefa Pictures photo libraries. Though he’s lived most of his life in urban surroundings, he loves to step outside to hike, bike, run, raft or canoe. It should therefore come as no surprise to learn that he has a preference for active travel, or alternatively anything photogenic so he can add to an image library numbering in the tens of thousands. That’s why he’s a repeat visitor to India, which he writes about in this issue. In cities, Mark loves nothing better than exploring the streets and markets on foot, often with a camera or two slung over his shoulder so he can snap away at whatever grabs his fancy. If it’s different to what he’s used to seeing, smelling and hearing in his hometown, then it’s likely he’ll want to go there. Mark has visited around 100 countries on six continents over 30 years of travel. The only continent missing is Antarctica – an omission he plans on rectifying some time during the next few years. In that time he’s been extorted by French gendarmes, scammed by Romanian money changers, pounded by Hungarian masseurs and fleeced by Chinese border guards. He’s walked with elephants and been chased by yaks. River guides have goaded him and buses have bounced him. He’s been solicited by prostitutes and charmed by rug merchants. He’s floated above deserts in hot air balloons, climbed Himalayan mountains, skinny-dipped in icy Scandinavian waters and slept with fleas in Indonesian guesthouses…and he wouldn’t change a thing.
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Deborah Dickson-Smith
Deborah is a mother, writer, blogger, social media diva, scuba girl and passionate eco-warrior. Deb has over 25 years experience in the world of publishing, working on titles such as Australian Geographic, DMAG, Out & About With Kids, Cruise Passenger and Spa Life magazine. Deb now consults as a content strategist to a number of tourism organisations, blogs about eco tourism and travelling with teens at Where To Next?, and contributes to a number of travel publications as a freelance travel writer. Her real passion is the environment - especially our marine environment and the desperate need to protect our oceans - our planet’s lungs. Two years ago, she and her partner, Simon Mallender, established the dive travel website Diveplanit.com with the aim to create more ocean advocates, by encouraging people to explore our underwater world. The website, a continual work in progress, includes detailed, content-rich guides to the best diving destinations in the Asia-Pacific region as well as advice on how to plan and book a diving holiday and easy-to-read analyses of marine environmental issues. Deb is an active advocate for the reduction of our dependence on single-use plastic, one of the ocean’s greatest pollutants, campaigning locally in her hometown for a Plastic Free Manly and using social media to encourage people to refuse single-use, and educating people about the alternatives. Deb’s at her happiest exploring the coral reefs of Fiji, Indonesia, PNG and the Solomon Islands, drinking a good Argentinian Malbec, travelling with her kids or taking them for Japanese feasts at their favourite local ramen cafe. www.where-to-next.com
Rod Eime
Rod’s first attempt at adventure travel was running away from his poor mother in Adelaide’s busy Central Market and ending up on North Terrace (about two kilometres). Not bad for an 18-month-old on foot. It didn’t stop there. Another watershed was his first cruise as a ten-year-old aboard P&O’s ‘Himalaya’ on the well-worn NoumeaFiji-Auckland route. Despite attempts to join mainstream society, the lure of travel won out. He stumbled through marketing, public relations, rock band management and journalism before settling into an erratic routine as a travel, tourism and transport writer, photographer and journalist. When someone needs to be impressed, he mentions his tertiary qualifications in journalism from University of Queensland, his Certificate in Business Management from AIM and his time as a lecturer in Photojournalism at Charles Sturt University. He’ll go on and on about how he created web pages back in 1994 and his first commercial website, launched in 1995. Don’t get him started on how he was one of the first to deliver digital images and copy to clients as far back as 1993. More recently he has comfortably slotted into a specialisation in small ship, adventure and expedition cruising and has published articles on his journeys in magazines and newspapers in Australia, Malaysia, USA, UK, Kuwait, New Zealand, Indonesia, Thailand, India and Hong Kong among others. In 2013 Rod won a second award for Photographer of the Year with the ASTW following on from 2011, when he also won Best International story (over 1000 words). He has been a finalist every year since 2005 and has won previously in 2008 and 2006. Happy birthday to Let’s Travel. Call me old-fashioned, but in an era of insta-twit bloggers and people glued to smartphone screens, it’s refreshing to read well-written stories on crisp, quality paper with the inspirational aroma of fresh ink. Ah! www.travography.com
Whilst we can’t bring them all to you in one issue we can showcase them over the next few issues. Showing you what makes them tick, what makes them leave their families (sometimes for weeks on end) to share with you their experiences in only the way a true travel writer can. Liz Light
Liz Light, an Auckland-based travel writer and photographer, knew she would become a global person when she was 11 years old and her grandmother gave her a book, Peoples of the World. In her gypsy years she travelled Australia’s east coast on a motorbike and spend six months sailing on a tall ship. She worked in a sapphire mine in Australia and in a cheese factory in England, sailed through the Caribbean, worked on super-yachts in France and Spain and backpacked through Central America. Liz mixed travelling the world with serious study getting an MA in history and English. She always followed her passion for photography. Finally, she had the hard-earned skills to make a living as a photojournalist. Two countries obsess her…New Zealand, her homeland, which she utterly loves and India with its ancient history, extraordinary architecture, long tradition of craft and textiles and diverse customs and culture. Now, as well as photojournalism, Liz hosts special interest tours to India. “Might as well leverage the knowledge gained in 15 trips to that incredible country,” she says. Liz has had travel stories in Let’s Travel since the beginning with India often featuring. Quality is her middle name and she has won numerous awards for both her writing and photography. Happy birthday Let’s Travel magazine and may there be many more. Contributors love and need you. www.lizlight.co.nz
Graham Reid
Travel has been in my blood since we moved back and forth between my birthplace Edinburgh and Auckland a few times before I was eight. I grew up in New Zealand with a huge PanAm map of the world on the wall and my parents looking at an atlas and discussing where to go next. My journalism years at the NZ Herald meant I travelled frequently for business (the US, Japan, Taiwan, China). In holidays I took myself off to places like Vietnam when it first opened for tourism. I have won a number of travel writing awards (some for my two books) and like nothing better than getting on an endless highway and driving through the US or the Outback of Australia. I often seek the unusual…strange people and places, odd museums, the weird Graceland Too shrine to Elvis in smalltown Mississippi, and I enjoy roads less travelled. On a three-month trip across the US my wife and I relied on 1956 maps from National Geographic. We avoided all interstates but discovered tiny towns, a few of them abandoned. Travel to me is about meeting locals (I rarely quote a tour guide or taxi driver) so I always carry a 1B exercise book. Sitting in a local bar scribbling away at the end of day is of interest to people off-duty after 5pm. It’s a great conversation starter. Most people are curious. I seldom have a laptop because it invites an immediate impression of a place or people. Hand-written notes allow for consideration and reflection before the typing begins.
For a back-catalogue of my writing – from short, humorous pieces to lengthy investigations of a place, its people and history. Have a look at my website: www.elsewhere.co.nz/travelstories My motto when out there? Be safe… and take risks. To the good people at Let’s Travel, may I wish you sincere congratulations on this significant anniversary.
Tim Roxborogh
Happy 7th birthday Let’s Travel! I’ve been incredibly fortunate to be writing for this magazine since my 2014 trip to L.A. to see Bee Gee Barry Gibb in concert. Barry was performing at the Hollywood Bowl and as a lifelong fan of the brothers Gibb I decided to combine the gig with a holiday in one of my most-loved destinations, California. Luckily for me, Let’s Travel were interested in my ideas. That was the starting point for me with Let’s Travel. From those first two articles on walking the streets of L.A. and the opulence of the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, Let’s Travel have helped me to explore southern India, Hawai’i, Oregon, China, Malaysia and up and down my own country, New Zealand. For me, travel is about storytelling. It’s hearing people’s stories and creating your own. It’s the fun when things don’t go entirely to plan. It’s being open to new experiences and the kindness of strangers. It’s about challenging stereotypes and misconceptions. It’s being unrelentingly curious; of wanting to know what’s down that street, what’s behind that door, what’s around that headland and what the view is like from that mountain. I’ve been travel writing for more than a decade and I haven’t come close to scratching the itch I have for exploring and coming home with new stories to share. Building a relationship with Let’s Travel has been such a pleasure. This is a beautifully presented magazine that encapsulates so much of the joy of travel. Happy birthday once again Let’s Travel! Thanks so much for helping me create and share these stories. Tim is a media professional with more than 17-years experience in New Zealand broadcasting. He currently hosts radio shows on Newstalk ZB and Coast FM, has his own iHeartRadio station ‘Soul’ and commentates on his favourite sport, cricket, in the summer. www.roxboroghreport.com
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The ever popular Oasis Sun SPF30 and Oasis Beauty Rhino Repair are available in 50ml tubes, perfect for vacations or work trips as they won’t take up much room! Oasis Sun SPF30’s low irritant, non-greasy and non-whitening formulation also includes a combination of natural and organic ingredients. Oasis Beauty’s Rhino Repair is the ultimate multi-tasking repair cream that relieves irritated, dry, itchy or flaky skin conditions, it can also be used as a deep nourishing facial cream. www.oasisbeauty.com
Much-loved New Zealand brand Em’s Power Cookies continues sustained energy mission with new look packaging. Fans of Em’s include Cameron Brown (12-times champion of Ironman New Zealand), Hayden Roulston (NZ Olympic cycling medallist) and Kim Hurst (WEMBO 2014 Champion and Karapoti MTB record holder). They are a great source of all-natural energy with no added soy protein, whey protein additives, superflous vitamin or mineral additives, preservatives or colourings. The Apri-Choc, Chocolate Cranberry and Chocolate Oat varieties are also available as 30g Power Bites. www.powercookies.com WIN: We have one box of Em’s Power Cookies to give away. Simply email your details to EMS@letstravelmag.com by no later than 5 September 2016 to be in the draw.
New products
New Zealanders heading to the tropics for a mid-winter getaway can be assured of 100% protection against the carrier of the Zika virus, according to the results of independent research carried out into Repel Ultra, Repel Tropical-Strength and Repel Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE!) insect repellents. Commissioned by Skin Shield Products, the independent field trial confirmed that Repel Ultra, Repel Tropical-Strength and Repel OLE! insect repellents provide 100% protection against the Aedes aegypti mosquito. www.skinshield.co.nz
Palmolive’s new Oil Infusions range is enriched with essential oils and botanical extracts in three unique blends: Jasmine & Avocado Oil, Citrus & Jojoba Oil, and Rose & Macadamia Oil. The range is available in a body moisturiser, body wash, liquid hand wash and a body bar. www.palmolive.co.nz
Vitamin C is essential for boosting the health of the immune system and reducing the duration of winter ills and chills. In addition, Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and is considered an essential daily requirement for good health. GO VITA-C is an easy to take, chewable Vitamin C tablet range that can help the body to prepare for when those nasty bugs hit. GO Vita-C is supplied in two tasty flavours – take your pick! Both the adult and kids GO Vita-C come in either a yummy tangy orange flavour or a delicious New Zealand Blackcurrant flavour. www.gohealthy.co.nz
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WIN: We have two sets of Palmolive Infusions range to give away. Simply email your details to PALMOLIVE@ letstravelmag.com by no later than 5 September 2016 and you’re in the draw.
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