Cacao Magazine - Issue One

cacao ISSUE ONE

T h e C r a f t C h o c o l a te M a g a z i n e

cacao

BECOME A SPONSOR team@readcacao.com BECOME A STOCKIST team@readcacao.com SUBMIT YOUR WORK team@readcacao.com FRONT COVER ILLUSTRATOR Wadim Petunin (@wadimpetunin) ISSN 2631-8873 Printed in Berlin by Heftwerk.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form without the written permission of Cacao Magazine.

welcome to cacao W elcome to the first ever issue of Cacao Magazine! We thoroughly hope you have as much fun reading it as we have had creating it. When we started on this journey we were apprehensive about how it would be received, as it’s truly the first of its kind. However, the overwhelming kindness and support from this loving community of chocolate enthusiasts, whom we now call friends, has never failed to surprise us. Lots of sleepless nights, endless revisions, and countless hot chocolates have turned our little idea into a real-life magazine, where makers, bloggers, farmers, business owners, chefs and chocolate-lovers all over the world can come together and tell their stories about cacao.

This first issue, and those to come, will follow the bean-to-bar sequence. We’ll take you on a journey from the farm to the final product, showing all aspects of the chocolate-making process that we admire.

You will also find a feature country in every edition. As we were living in the vibrant city of Berlin when Cacao was born, it felt fitting to start with Germany! We were lucky enough to work with a wonderful German illustrator to create the cover, and that’s something we would like to continue in future editions. After all, who better to capture the essence of the country than a local? As we write this, we are in sunny Chiang Mai, getting ready to visit a Thai cacao plantation - so we’ll let you guess what to expect in Issue Two, coming out this autumn.

Until then, eat, enjoy and read cacao!

Lukas T. Reinhardt & Ruby Willow Founders of Cacao Magazine

cacao

Founder & Creative Director Lukas T. Reinhardt Founder & Editor in Chief Ruby Willow Copy Editor Alexandra Davidson Contributors Wadim Petunin

Daisy Hill

Sarah Chand

Laurie Aames

Enliven Cacao

Charisse Kenion

Pablo Merchán Montes

Eric Hiller

Lilla Toth-Tatai

Ruth Loh Xiu

Katie Napoli

Antonella Tromba

Canicula Illustrations

Jeremy Child

Ekrem Canli

Elisia Otavio

Roman Kraft

Binesh A. B.

Max Gandy

Samuel Dart

Susie Encarnacion

Anjuli Dharna

Tatiana Bugrova

Kat Perry

Megan Giller

Niki Nagy

Domantas Užpalis

Robbie Stout

Lagodka Illustrations

Chocolate Naive

Robert O’Sullivan

Moritz kleine Bornhorst

Anna Bazyl

Tom de Vries

BEAN CRAFT CHOCOLATE: THE RENAISSANCE 8

UNDERSTANDING THE BEAN-TO-BAR PROCESS 14

EAT CHOCOLATE. CURE POVERTY. 20

BUILDING THE ROAD TO CACAO 28

THE WORLD OF CACAO 32

GERMANY THE FALL AND RISE OF CHOCOLATE IN GERMANY 46

BEAN-TO-BAR BERLIN 58

BERLIN CRAFT CHOCOLATE CITY GUIDE 62

GEORGIA RAMON: PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES 66

BLACK FOREST TRUFFLES RECIPE 68

BAR HOW TO TASTE CHOCOLATE: A SENSORY EXPERIENCE 72

WHY FINE CHOCOLATE IS LOYAL TO REAL VANILLA 76

CHILLI CHOCOLATE & COCONUT PUDDING RECIPE 84

MEET THE MAKER: CHOCOLATE NAIVE 86

SECTION : BEA N

cacao | 6

SECTION : BEA N

SECTION

BEAN CRAFT CHOCOLATE: THE RENAISSANCE

·

UNDERSTANDING THE BEAN-TO-BAR PROCESS

·

EAT CHOCOLATE. CURE POVERTY.

·

BUILDING THE ROAD TO CACAO

·

THE WORLD OF CACAO

cacao cacao | 7

C RA FT CHOCOL ATE : T HE RE NAISS ANCE Written by Ruth Loh Xiu Illustrated by Canicula Illustrations

O

nce upon a time, cacao trees grew rampant in the jungles of Mesoamerica.

Ripe cacao pods the size of footballs hung heavy, ready to be harvested for their delicious white pulp. People would savour this tart, stringy delicacy from the theobroma tree, disposing of the almond-shaped cacao beans found within. Then one day, it happened. Some adventurous souls discovered the exhilarating truth: each bean possesses hundreds of flavours, and they taste absolutely wonderful.

Thus began the chase for chocolate nirvana.

The chase continues today – thousands of years, experiments and recipes later. Chocolate spent much of its lengthy history as a frothy bittersweet drink popular among the upper classes, both in its Aztec origins and when it arrived in the West. The solid bar we now refer to as chocolate only became available

to the general public in the mid19th century.

The Chocolate Revolution As chocolate’s popularity grew, manufacturers marched in to take on the immense task of producing one of the world’s favourite foods en masse. As is often the case when

trying to make something utterly delectable in bulk, compromises had to be made – and chocolate’s flavour and quality suffered greatly as a result.

Instead of celebrating the cacao bean’s diverse and complex flavours, mainstream chocolate was turned into a congealed glob of preservatives, additives and sugar, with cacao added to the ingredient list as a token aside. What should have been an exciting journey of flavour was turned into mass-produced candy bars, each as predictable as the next.

Elisia Otavio, from Californian bean-to-bar maker Raphio Chocolate, summarises it simply: “Mass-produced chocolate … is a chocolate with [a] single layer base and nothing more – no layers of fine flavours that you will get from carefully crafted chocolate.”

Throughout the 20th century, consumers grew accustomed to this type of chocolate, generally available in just two forms: dark or milk.

It wasn’t until the 1990’s, when Scharffen Berger began producing carefully crafted small batch chocolate using cacao beans from around the world, that people realised what chocolate could really

“In the last 20 years the number of craft chocolate artisans has skyrocketed from less than 10 to more than 200 in the USA alone.” taste like. With the rise of the internet occurring simultaneously, consumers suddenly had unprecedented access to knowledge, which fuelled a growing curiosity about the products they were buying. As the appeal of reconstructed food waned for many, a craving for authentic, undiluted ingredients arose in its place. It was the start of the chocolate revolution.

In the following two decades the chocolate world saw a dizzying disruption to the dominance of these mass-produced bars. True chocolate was making a comeback.

Megan Giller, author of Bean-toBar Chocolate: America’s Craft Chocolate Revolution, found that in the last 20 years the number of craft chocolate artisans has skyrocketed from less than 10 to more than 200 in the USA alone, as the market tries to keep up with the growing demand. That exponential growth is undeniable proof that people were longing for craft chocolate.

But what, exactly, is craft chocolate?

Craft chocolate (also referred to as speciality chocolate, fine chocolate or bean-to-bar chocolate), rather like craft beer, fine wine and artisan coffee, has proven difficult to define. Countless interpretations of craft chocolate exist, making it challenging for the average consumer to identify good chocolate.

At Cacao Magazine, we define it as chocolate that: 1. Celebrates the diversity of cacao origins and flavours from around the world 2. Prioritises ingredients of the highest quality 3. Recognises, respects and fairly pays everyone involved in the supply chain – from those growing the beans to the people crafting the bar 4. Boasts a minimal and pronounceable ingredients list Aside from chocolate, you’d be hardpressed to find many other foods as deeply affected by so many stages in the production and supply chain.

Made with the purest of ingredients (fine cacao beans and cane sugar), a craft chocolate bar can showcase a whole range of flavours unique to the cacao’s origin. For example, a bar using cacao from Tanzania may start off tasting like peaches,

then tease your tongue with a hint of toasted hazelnuts, whereas a bar using Nicaraguan cacao might reveal notes of caramel and finish off tasting like pineapple. All these characteristics were hidden in the cacao beans all along, waiting to be unlocked by a skilful farmer and a dedicated chocolate-maker.

With so many other ingredients to share the flavour load, some of the major chocolate companies’ manufacturing standards are not as stringent as those of the craft chocolate industry. To satisfy mass-production profit margins, cheaper, low-quality beans are used and corners are cut. Big chocolate producers buy cacao in bulk, often from

unknown origins, and with little to no knowledge of the degree and consistency of fermentation levels.

Treated as a commodity and thrown together as one, many chocolate manufacturers ignore the complex and specific differences in an entire world of cacao varieties, each of which has individual requirements.

Treating all cacao equally too often leads to these precious beans being either over- or under-roasted, leaving an unpleasant concoction of burnt aromas and off flavours which are frequently masked with synthetic vanilla. On top of this, the beans are rarely used to their full potential, since the expensive part of the bean – the cocoa butter – is often sluiced out and sold on for profit elsewhere, such as the cosmetic industry. The delicious natural substance is then substituted for cheaper alternatives such as palm oil or vegetable fats.

That’s the main difference between mass-produced chocolate and craft chocolate: one is candy designed for a quick sugar rush, the other is a celebration of the cacao bean and everything it holds. Putting further distance still between lovingly crafted chocolate and commercial candy, Max Gandy, the blogger behind damecacao.com, says “industrial chocolate has … a heavy hand in the sugar” but “craft

chocolate makers are [using] less sugar in an effort to highlight the real star of the bar.” The star being, of course, the cacao.

Craft chocolate-makers source their beans either directly from farmers or through co-operative and sustainable channels, which means that farmers receive a fairer price for their labour – it may surprise you to learn that sometimes this can be three to four times higher than even Fairtrade prices.

Uncommon Cacao’s sales director, Anjuli Dharna, says: “The commodity market treats all cacao as equal, regardless of origin, quality, or volume. This is a problem.”

Seeking “stability and partnership for cacao producers and chocolate-makers,” Anjuli says, “makes a new cacao economy possible.” This is one reason why craft chocolate comes with a higher price tag. It’s no longer seen as candy, but rather as a valuable artisanal food on a par with fine cheese, wine or whisky.

Cracks Appearing in the Craft As the craft chocolate movement grows, are the soaring numbers of chocolate-makers and chocolatiers softening craft chocolate standards? Just giving something a ‘craft’

label doesn’t necessarily mean it will be a high-quality product.

Not all craft chocolate bars are equal in flavour and quality. Seasoned chocolate reviewer Max says: “Most of the hundreds, maybe even thousands, of chocolate bars I’ve tried are good. Some have been bad, a few were really horrendous, and even fewer have been stupendous.”

As a fairly new frontier, the craft chocolate movement is, as Max puts it, “still in its infancy [with] too many makers calling themselves ‘craft’ but using cacao that’s good-but-not-great, and of relatively dubious origin.” Speaking to the Washington Post, Robbie Stout, co-founder of Ritual Chocolate, explained that for him, “craft chocolate is about taking the process

seriously, always improving, breaking down the steps and perfecting them – and always striving to achieve better quality.”

Future of Craft Chocolate The craft chocolate industry is set to continue expanding, with growing numbers of consumers clamouring for the delicious flavours that only fine chocolate can bring. Craft chocolate is not only aimed at creating delicacies for chocolate-lovers, however. It’s also setting an example of how business can and should be done: empowering, educating and fairly paying the farmer instead of exploiting them for their labour, all while preserving the art

and science of producing the perfect chocolate bar.

Whilst the craft chocolate industry is certainly growing, there is still much progress to be made before it becomes as established as speciality coffee and craft beer have over recent years. Will craft chocolate ever eclipse the billion-dollar commercial confectionery industry? Perhaps not; just as with beer and coffee, it’s likely that there will always be demand for cheaper commoditised products. However, as a growing community we can continue working towards the day where craft chocolate will simply be referred to as chocolate.

SECTION : BEA N

U NDE RSTAN D IN G THE B E A N-TO- BAR PR OCE SS Written by Robert O’Sullivan Illustrated by Anna Bazyl

F

rom harvesting to wrapping, chocolate-making is an intricate and refined process that can be manipulated throughout certain stages for the purpose of achieving a particular flavour

or texture. The evolved and meticulous process from bean to bar is reflected in the unique and delicious taste that comes from an exceptional plant.

1. Harvesting

The cacao tree (Theobroma cacao) grows in tropical climates throughout the world, and has the unusual trait of having both flowers and fruit on the tree at the same time.

The fruit of the tree is known as the cacao pod, which grows on the trunk and branches. Each pod ripens at a different time, so expertise is needed in choosing the right time to pick the pod. Picking is usually done with a machete, and great care is needed to ensure that the flower cushion on the tree is not damaged so that more pods can grow in the future.

cacao | 14

SECTION : BEA N

2. Fermenting After the pods are opened and the beans are exposed to oxygen, the fermentation begins. The beans and pulp may be contained in banana leaves or wooden boxes, which contain holes for excess liquid to escape. The beans are mixed or turned to enable this process and the temperature naturally raises to 40-50°C. This stage is a major factor in developing the cacao flavour and can take up to eight days, depending on the bean type.

3. Drying Following the fermentation stage, the beans contain a high level of moisture, which needs to be reduced in order to avoid overdeveloping, which can adversely affect the flavour. In most origins, cocoa beans can be sun-dried. In wetter climates, however, this is not possible so alternative methods are used. For example, in Papua New Guinea, beans are dried using open fires, giving them a distinctly smoky flavour. Once dried, the beans are then sorted and bagged, before being shipped to makers around the world. cacao | 15

SECTION : BEA N

4. Roasting The next step is for chocolate-makers to roast their dried cacao beans.

The roasting time and temperature will vary by bean type and quality, as well as the objectives of the chocolate-maker. In addition to being an important factor for flavour development, the roasting process also further reduces the moisture content and kills off any lurking bacteria.

5. Cracking & Winnowing Following the roasting process, the outer shell becomes thin and brittle. The beans are then cracked manually or with a machine, after which the shells can be winnowed from the bean kernels, also known as cocoa nibs. The cocoa nibs are used in the production of chocolate, whereas the antioxidant-packed shells can be used for other purposes, such as making cacao tea or even garden fertiliser. cacao  |  16

SECTION : BEA N

6. Grinding & Conching These two processes are commonly combined into one with the use of a melangeur. First, the nibs are ground into a thick paste known as cocoa mass. This paste consists of both cocoa solids and cocoa butter, the natural fat of the cocoa bean.

During the conching stage, some chocolate-makers add extra ingredients such as sugar, milk or vanilla. This step may take anything from two hours to two days, and the particulars of the process are crucial as they will affect the final texture and flavour.

7. Tempering This is the process of raising and lowering the temperature of the chocolate so that it is formed into the right consistency through the treatment of the crystals. Without tempering, the chocolate would be dull and crumbly, missing the tempting shine and recognisable snap of a finished chocolate bar.

This is traditionally done by hand but the process can also be sped up with a tempering machine.

cacao  |  17

SECTION : BEA N

8. Moulding Once tempered, the melted chocolate is poured into the chosen mould and tapped against a hard surface to remove air bubbles. Craft chocolate-makers often do this by hand, while for larger manufacturers the process is mechanised for efficiency.

9. Wrapping After the chocolate has cooled and solidified it is inspected for quality control. The final bar is then carefully wrapped in foil or paper packaging to keep it fresh, and labelled with a best before date and ingredients list. After the long journey from bean-to-bar, the chocolate is finally ready to be enjoyed!

cacao  |  18

SECTION : BEA N

orth s w h a e

ar ing

an

id

cacao

Are you a talented chocolate writer, illustrator or photographer?

Or perhaps you’ve got a brilliant idea you’d love to see discussed in future issues of Cacao Magazine?

Get in touch! team@readcacao.com

cacao | 19

SECTION : BEA N

cacao | 20

SECTION : BEA N

Enliven Cacao: Part 1

E AT C HOCOL ATE .

CU RE POVE RTY. Written by Daisy Hill Photography provided by Enliven Cacao

T

he day waits for Grace to wake up. Her husband Jairo has been up since 6 am, machete in hand, weeding and hacking crops with the sun on his back. It is peak harvesting time in the mountainous rainforests just outside of Rancho Grande and the long hours spent with his blade, basket and worn-out sneakers make for hungry work.

A heavy burst of Nicaraguan rain leaks inside Grace’s hut and wakes her. She is met by the sight of her four daughters, who have just returned from collecting oranges.

Education has evaded them, as it did Grace. This morning, like every other, their day begins at 6.30 am and will exist within the boundaries of a few secluded huts and winding paths.

From sunrise to sunset ensues the relentless task of providing food and water for more mouths than they can comfortably feed, and maintaining the home that’s too

small for the numbers that live inside it. Their lives are not yet theirs.

Food is basic; their homeland of Nicaragua is one of the poorest countries in Latin America. Rice and yucca are staples, but they’re not particularly nutritious and as a result all members of the family are tired. Travel to market towns is not affordable or accessible, and their role within a farming family means that each of them must assist wherever they can to make the workers’ lives bearable.

Conditions for farmers are back-breaking. Hills are steep, harvesting is demanding and all work is carried out manually. Buyers’ prices may change and drop off at any point, with no warning or reason.

The technology that has long pervaded the West, making lives easier and more pleasant, is not a reality for these workers.

cacao | 21

SECTION : BEA N

Nicaraguan farming families dedicate their lives to the forest’s harvests, yet they are very much in the dark about the crop they sow.

70% of the Nicaraguan population works in agriculture, and 30% of people live in poverty. Very little understanding of the chocolate industry they so vitally power, combined with no history of forecasting, leaves farmers’ livelihoods as unpredictable as a change of the wind.

This insecurity can lead to confusion, and a medley of crops being sold sporadically for less than market rate is not a rare occurrence. Many mouths to feed means hunger beats bartering, and strategy doesn’t even get a seat at the table. Corn, coffee, citrus, cacao – all priced with one’s eyes closed.

It’s the equivalent of hard-working bankers clocking up 15 hours a day on Wall Street only to find an intern’s paycheque in their bank account at the end.

Startlingly – but perhaps not surprisingly, given this background – according to Oxfam America, only about 3% of the price of the chocolate bar you buy in a store is received by cocoa farmers globally. Farmers in rural Nicaragua can expect to

take home around US$605.90 per year, on average*. Meanwhile, the global chocolate industry brought in annual profits of over US$80 billion (*2016 statistics).

Farmers are somewhat helpless to remedy this situation, because they simply don’t know the systems that are at play in their industry, and they don’t understand the bigger picture. Often, they’ve never even experienced the taste of their own product.

Of course, the bitter cacao that farmers sell at a drastically undervalued rate is nothing like the sweet taste that we have come to know as chocolate. The bean-to-bar process is a complex one; those farmers who do try to sample the fruits of their labours are likely just to taste a bitter water, like the Mayans did when they first discovered cocoa around 900 AD. All these factors mean that farmers remain in a loop of relentless work, very little money and no knowledge of the vital role they play in a worldwide chocolate phenomenon.

But, fortunately for the residents of La Colonia, things are changing for the better.

cacao | 22

SECTION : BEA N

NBC News reported in 2014 that our appetite for chocolate was at an all-time high, with global demand rising by 13% from 2009 to 2014.

Today that growth shows no signs of slowing. About Chocolate’s Global Chocolate Market report for 2017-2021 indicates that demand for cocoa beans is still outstripping the supply.

POVERTY GDP per capita

Despite significant economic growth over recent years, Nicaragua remains the poorest country in Central America. An estimated 30% of the population lives on less than $2 a day.

Market forces, therefore, have started to work in the farmer’s favour – but the farmers only became aware of that opportunity thanks to an outside voice. Eight voices, in fact, who collectively form one voice: Enliven Cacao, a group of businessmen and women from North America who were seeking a community to pour their efforts and resources into.

Sir Fazle Hasan Abed, winner of the 2015 World Food Prize, says: “Only by putting the poorest in charge of their own lives and destinies will absolute poverty and deprivation be removed from the face of the earth.”

Within the La Colonia community in Nicaragua, Enliven found several farmers considered to be experts in growing cacao. These are kind, resilient people surrounded by fertile soil, abundant natural resources and generations of farming experience – but an indifference towards the cacao on their doorstep.

The team behind Minnesota-based Enliven Cacao must have written their manifesto from the same hymn book. Their approach in assisting the La Colonia community has, from its very beginnings in 2015, been one of inspiring independence rather than delivering handouts.

The Enliven team began the process of building a bridge.

Lauren Bruhn from Enliven tells a tale of meeting a local guide called Moises in the early days. A tall man

Source: The World Bank 2019

cacao | 23

SECTION : BEA N

with tired eyes and a sour attitude, he had no desire to make friends with western charity workers. When finally he opened up – over a plate of food – he spoke not only of poverty and homelessness, but also the bruises that he bore from charity workers who had come into his hometown before, causing more grief than hope.

Adamant never to follow in these footsteps, the essence of Enliven is that of authentic relationship-building and sustainable growth. It’s a vital product of the will of the Nicaraguan farmers and the deep respect that the Enliven founders have for their trade and courage.

In fact, Enliven’s acute awareness of the reasons behind the poverty trap AGRICULTURE Percentage of Labour Force in Agriculture

Agriculture plays a vital role in Nicaragua.

Over 30% of the labour force in Nicaragua is engagedwithinthissector.Incomparison,only 0.7% of the labour force in the USA works in the agriculture sector.

has been integral to its appropriate response. Having seen the effects of a stifling dependency on aid – isolation and feelings of shame, powerlessness and subjugation – Enliven is unequivocal in its stance: poverty isn’t pathetic.

The company’s focus instead has been on simplifying the complicated, building up a toolbox and a network of relationships. “La Colonia don’t want your charity, they want your business” are words that can be found on Enliven’s website. And business is exactly what Enliven has passed on.

Education, business training, project management, capital investment, networking and chain analysis are all contained within Enliven’s toolkit.

Centuries of combined professional experience have been activated to empower a small rural community with a huge opportunity in sight.

In its entirety, this project may well be one of the biggest business-to-business exchanges existing today.

The Enliven team is made up of professionals at the top of their games: scientists, medics, wealth managers, lawyers and entrepreneurs. The farmers of La Colonia, too, have been entrepreneurs their whole lives.

Source: CIA World Factbook 2019

cacao | 24

SECTION : BEA N

Wedded to their trade and experts of their land, they never needed to be told what to do.

Talent, skill, passion and value were always prevalent within the community. Enliven’s platform helped turn dreams into enterprise.

First came the cacao itself. Now armed with knowledge they had previously missed out on, the farmers chose to prioritise cacao as their primary revenue stream.

Having been taught how to ferment and dry their own beans, today La Colonia farmers ship their beans straight to the US in Enliven’s Minneapolis studio.

Purchased by artisan chocolate makers across the country, La Colonia’s beans then become delicious chocolate bars. Gifts for friends, congratulations for passing exams and treats for yours truly: 100% of the money that chocolate-makers spend on Enliven cacao beans goes back to the farmers, families and community of La Colonia.

As a direct result, the families, and the women in particular, are beginning to thrive.

The women of Rancho Grande were traditionally isolated from decision-making. Secluded from the modern world, their lives were monotonous and tough. Yet they had dreams in their heads, as we all do – and they have now learnt to unlock these and kickstart their own small enterprises.

A new smoothie shop in the nearby community of El Tuma stocks a locally made delicious cacao milk smoothie, and it’s becoming the most popular drink on the menu.

A bakery for La Colonia will create another new revenue stream, and others are already using ovens to explore their potential. From homemade croissants to handmade coffee grinders, beyond hardship in La Colonia there is beauty, strength, hospitality and hope.

On top of this comes the safety and security of knowing that the community can make its own perishable (not to mention life-giving) goods, such as oatmeal cookies with cacao nibs, even when the roads aren’t passable.

Choice, knowledge and generosity drive both the North American and Central American sides of this partnership.

cacao | 25

SECTION : BEA N

Never has the phrase “give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach him to fish and you feed him for a lifetime” felt truer than it does in this community.

The only boundaries to La Colonia’s evolution will come from the farmers and their families’ imaginations.

“We take on projects of all kinds – product distribution, livestock, sewing, agriculture, coffee, chocolate, weaving, or lending – anything that can revitalise a community by unlocking resources, skills, and dreams,” says Enliven’s mission statement.

hope and newfound connections and bringing in extra income.

Most importantly, the cycle of poverty is breaking. The light at the end of the tunnel is visible (most likely due to the new electric lamps), and the families are finally making a healthy living off the back of their Wall Street commitment.

And undoubtedly investing in people’s dreams is their lovemark.

“The farmers are the real heroes of the chocolate world,” adds Enliven’s Lauren Bruhn.

Today Enliven maintains a presence in the community and provides ongoing support, education and technical resources as needed.

But the project’s initial efforts have now got legs of their own.

Sales from cacao beans are directly funding major improvements like electricity and new roads. But success has also spurred on offshoot business ventures, further inspiring cacao | 26

SECTION : BEA N

MEET THE FARMER:

MEET THE FARMER:

DORIS RAMOS

HARVIN MARTINEZ

Doris Ramos is the sole provider for her two children. After her husband left, Doris turned to three acres of family land in order to provide for her family. Working alongside Enliven, Doris and her community united to form a group called Esperanza De La Tierra.

Together, they work to farm, harvest, aggregate and process cacao. Since the formation of the new group, Doris’ farm has acquired 600 additional cacao trees, serving as a great inspiration in the community of La Colonia.

Harvin is the community leader in La Colonia. He spent his early years in El Tuma, about an hour outside of La Colonia, then won a scholarship to attend a technical college in Matagalpa as a teen. There, Harvin studied agriculture before returning to La Colonia, where he applies his learnings, quite literally, every day. Harvin’s skills and determination have been crucial for Enliven, and have created a dramatic positive change. Harvin lives with his wife Heidi and his two sons on their five-acre cacao and coffee farm.

cacao | 27

SECTION : BEA N

Enliven Cacao: Part 2

B U I L DI NG THE RO A D TO CACAO Written by Eric Hiller from Enliven Cacao Photography provided by Enliven Cacao

U

p here in Minnesota, folks say we have two seasons: winter and road construction. It’s hard to say which is better. Ice-covered roads peppered with bone-jarring potholes or busy freeways narrowed down to one lane smack dab in the middle of rush hour. Flip a coin. Either way, it’s better than this:

Imagine hauling cacao, produce, and other supplies up and down a mile-long stretch of winding mountain path. Twisted, treacherous, washed out by rain, and often blocked by runoff and natural debris. For the farmers and families of La Colonia, it was business as usual. Just another day in the life.

As their cacao revenue grew, the

cacao | 28

SECTION : BEA N

cacao | 29

SECTION : BEA N

community voted to bring in electricity, which required a road that could cope with heavy equipment.

A good road, able to support large flatbed trailers carrying huge poles and spools of heavy-duty power lines. This will be a big project for a small group with huge hearts.

The community elects Ms. Elucadia Soza to lead the project. The first thing she does is organise the volunteer labour force. Thirty families, spread out in ten teams of three families each, are assigned responsibility for their section of the road. Armed only with shovels and pickaxes, they begin by removing debris, filling in gaps and cutting edges to transform the skinny path into something that can take the width of a truck.

Next, Elucadia reaches out to the municipal government of Rancho Grande. She will need over 40 tons of sand, clay and gravel transported up the mountain. The local government agrees to haul the materials by truck up the path as it is widened and flattened, depositing piles every tenth of a mile or so.

But things don’t always work out as planned in Nicaragua. Resources are stretched too thinly and the government cannot make good on

its promise. The materials are left at the bottom of the mountain. It was now up to the families to haul it up by hand, one wheelbarrow at a time. And yet they persevered.

And then there’s the rain. They don’t call it a rainforest for nothing! The more they built, the more the water liked it. Even light downpours washed out whole sections of road before the clay and gravel could get tamped down, causing them to start over time and time again. And yet they persevered.

The road is finally complete, but their work is never done. The rains continue to wash away entire sections and deposit random debris.

Elucadia has organised repair teams based on proximity of homes to the road. For them, road construction season lasts all year. And yet they persevere, happy to have a road at all.

To find out more about Enliven Cacao and La Colonia, please visit: www.enlivencacao.org

cacao | 30

SECTION : BEA N

cacao

let’s work together Interested in sponsoring future issues of Cacao?

We are looking to form long-term partnerships with brands who share similar values and visions to us.

Get in touch! team@readcacao.com

cacao | 31

SECTION : BEA N

cacao | 32

SECTION : BEA N

cacao | 33

T HE WORL D OF CACAO Written by Ruby Willow Watercolour Map illustrated by Katie Napoli Vintage Map illustrated by Jeremy Child

F

or many people, one of the first things to search for when inspecting a new chocolate bar is the origin of the beans. As it’s a detail rarely found on mass-produced, more commercially found bars, this is often (but not always) a good indicator of whether or not you have a bar of craft chocolate in your hands.

As our map and brief descriptions show, the world of cacao is diverse, fascinating and rarely predictable.

Common flavour notes are likely to appear in products of a certain origin but, while you may have favourites that you regularly seek out, they are never guaranteed. With so many other factors at play – such as the specific terroir within a country, how the beans are fermented or even the maker’s recipe – this guide is simply meant to be a fun read and not a factual directory of the world’s cacao and the bizarre and mouthwatering flavours it holds.

Cacao grows roughly between 20 degrees north and 20 degrees south of the equator, earning this area the title of The Chocolate Belt. There wasn’t enough space in this magazine to display every origin, let alone every tasting note associated with it, so we have chosen a small selection to discuss. We encourage you to do your own research and challenge yourself to try chocolate from a range of origins (it’s a hard job, but somebody’s got to do it) to see what flavours might surprise you along the way.

Brazil South America’s largest cacao growing country was brought to a devastating halt in the early nineties when the witches’ broom fungus destroyed the once-perfect cacao-growing environment, resulting in the closure of 90% of cacao plantations. In their place has grown the more resilient Forastero

variety, which packs strong flavours that replicate the earthy tastes of the rainforest and the sweet fruit that grows within. The Brazilian chocolate market is continuing to boom, largely helped by growing local demand.

Notes: earthy, honey, vanilla, coffee

Nicaragua Invitingly referred to as “the land of lakes and volcanoes,” Nicaragua has a reputation for growing some of the world’s finest cacao.

The mountainous rainforest climate between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea creates Notes: dried fruits, caramel, floral

a unique aromatic flavour with fruity, floral and caramel characteristics. Although it currently only accounts for less than 0.3% of the global cocoa supply, international demand for Nicaraguan cacao is rapidly growing.

Venezuela Overlooking the Caribbean Sea, cacao trees have been growing in Venezuela for so long that many people claim it to be the birthplace of the highly sought-after Criollo variety and other rare Criollo hybrids. Unfortunately for craft chocolate-makers desperately seeking

these unique-tasting beans, exports are currently being restricted due to strict government orders, meaning that what was once one of South America’s largest producers is now only able to share a fraction of its delicious beans with the world.

Notes: red berries, citrus, pepper

Ecuador With an incredible abundance of diverse nature, Ecuador is home to some of the world’s oldest varieties of cacao, including the rare Arriba Nacional variety – considered by Notes: blackcurrant, banana, lime, floral

many to be the ‘best of the best’.

Influenced by the abundance of diverse fruit and flora surrounding its trees, Ecuadorian cacao is notably floral with strong fruit flavours.

Mexico Despite its renowned history as the birthplace of chocolate, Mexican cacao has faced pod disease and economic difficulty, forcing many growers to switch to alternative crops. But now, encouraged by award-winning chocolate-makers

such as Mucho showcasing the spicy and unique flavours found in the Chiapas region, demand is growing both nationally and internationally to protect the country’s world-famous resource.

Notes: woody, nutmeg, liquorice

Grenada First introduced by the French in the 17th century, cacao is now grown all over the island. Grenada boasts the impressive claim of its cacao being 100% fine flavour; there are no low-quality varieties to be found here. The country is now

home to five tree-to-bar makers, inspired by the success of Mott Green and two of his friends, who founded the Grenada Chocolate Company in 1999 – the first chocolate-making company in a chocolate-growing country.

Notes: herbs, grass, cherry

Peru One of the world’s top 10 countries for biodiversity, it is not surprising that Peru has been growing cacao (amongst its 25,000 other species of plants) for centuries. Nestled in the contrasting and striking Notes: tropical fruit, floral, woody

landscapes of this extraordinary country are hundreds of different cacao varieties, making it one of the largest and most famous sources of fine-flavoured cacao for chocolate-makers.

Hawaii (USA) Known as ‘the North Pole of cacao’ Hawaii is technically the coldest place in the world where cacao is grown. The nascent industry in Hawaii has seen a surge in fine cacao production over recent

years, but so far local growers have struggled to keep up with demand.

Hawaii is the only state in the US where cacao is both grown and turned into chocolate on a commercial level.

Notes: avocado, grassy, coconut

Philippines The primary provider of cacao beans for Southeast Asia and one of the world’s first cacao-growing countries, the Philippines has seen huge success with what one Filipino farmer called “the plant with gold

inside.” Ample rain, sunshine and fertile soil give the islands the ideal climate for growing all sorts of cacao bean varieties, including the rare Criollo bean.

Notes: dried fruits, cinnamon, ginger

Vietnam Vietnam has a rich but slow-burning history with cacao – it was first brought to the country by French colonials in the 19th century, but three centuries passed before it was successfully sold as a product of trade. Until then, the fruit Notes: coffee, lemon, cardamom

had been eaten fresh from the few trees that survived the country’s failed attempts at cacao farming.

Recognised in 2016 as a fine-flavoured origin, Vietnamese cacao stands out for its distinctive coffee flavours.

Thailand Thailand’s minimal association with cacao is quickly being remedied: farmers are starting to recognise cacao as a lucrative earning opportunity, and an impressive number of bean-to-bar makers have now popped up throughout the

country. With many awards being won at the Acadamy of Chocolate and International Chocolate Awards over the last year, Thailand is becoming a serious contestoron the international stage of fine chocolate.

Notes: coconut, tropical fruits, malted, caramel

India Grown here exclusively as an intercrop under the protection of suitable shading partners such as coconut palm and mango trees, Indian cacao is still seen as Notes: dried fruits, brownie, ginger

relatively rare and untried by many.

Nevertheless, those in the know praise its particularly sweet and mellow flavours, which are often showcased in dessert-like bars.

Papua New Guinea Creating bars with recognisably smoky flavours, cacao grown in Papua New Guinea is often dried by open wood fires after fermentation. This technique is necessary here due to the warm, moist

climate, which makes it difficult to dry out cacao using more conventional methods. As a bonus, it’s also turned out to add a delicious and well-known smoky characteristic to the Papuan bean.

Notes: smoky, roasted, dried fruits

Taiwan In response to the damage caused by excessive farming of betel nuts, the government began encouraging Taiwanese farmers to grow cacao instead. In the last decade, this has become a resounding success for both growers and chocolate-lovers Notes: green tea, caramel, woody

alike, with Taiwanese chocolate-makers winning 24 awards at the 2018 International Chocolate Awards and judges applauding the impressive chocolate community that has developed on the island.

Madagascar World-famous for its bright, red fruit flavours, Madagascan cacao is hugely popular with craft chocolate-makers, who buy the majority of this fine-flavoured goodness. In addition to being prized around the

world for its high quality, there are two factories on the island using it for bean-to-bar chocolate, which seems an obvious development for a country that also grows both sugar and vanilla.

Notes: red fruits, bright, citrus

Tanzania Tanzania first started growing cacao in the 1880’s but it wasn’t until Kokoa Kamili was founded, and began working directly with farmers to improve quality, that craft chocolate-makers started to become interested. The country grows much Notes: hazelnut, honey, lemon

smaller quantities than some of its neighbours, but its beans are favoured by many for their sweet, fruity and fine-flavoured cacao.

Tanzanian farmers proudly promote their cacao beans as 99% organic.

São Tomé & Príncipe Formerly the largest producer worldwide, having received its first cacao plant from Brazil in 1822, the island of São Tomé went on to introduce the crop throughout West Africa – where two-thirds of the world’s cacao is now grown.

Rare descendants of these original Forastero varieties still grow today, and farmers are once again concentrating on quality over quantity, creating distinctively earthy and spicy cacao.

Notes: gingerbread, earthy, honey

Ghana Ghana is the world’s second largest cacao producer, and the crop is the number one export for the country.

Though Ghanaian cacao is often associated with industrial chocolate, Notes: coffee, tobacco, vanilla

a few craft chocolate-makers are now proving that cacao grown in Ghana can create a multitude of unique and delicious flavours when farmed correctly.

Uganda Cacao was introduced to Uganda over 100 years ago, with exports peaking in the 1960s. Since then, neglect and a lack of financial resources have led to a decline in the Ugandan cacao industry. However, in recent years Ugandan cacao has

been making a comeback as farmers look for alternative crops to coffee. Grown predominantly in the Rwenzori Mountains, on the border with the DRC, Ugandan cacao is known for its interestingly fruity yet spicy flavour profile.

Notes: cherries, apricot, pepper

DR Congo Cacao started its journey here while the country was under Belgian colonisation in the early 20th century, but its high production output suffered greatly when many colonial plantation owners left the country in the 1960s. After decades of Notes: pepper, coffee, smoky

conflict that have left many suffering extreme poverty, cacao is now providing hope for the people of the DRC while at the same time supplying exceptional, spicy and delicious fine-flavoured chocolate to the world.

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

cacao | 44

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

SECTION

G E R M A NY THE FALL AND RISE OF CHOCOLATE IN GERMANY

·

BEAN-TO-BAR BERLIN

·

BERLIN CRAFT CHOCOLATE CITY GUIDE

·

GEORGIA RAMON: PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES

·

BLACK FOREST TRUFFLES RECIPE

cacao cacao | 45

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

cacao | 46

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

T HE FAL L A N D R IS E OF CH O C OL AT E IN GE R MANY Written by Samuel Dart Photography by Niki Nagy

T

he first thing I tried at Belyzium, an artisan chocolate-maker tucked away on an unassuming corner in Berlin-Mitte, was its take on a classic 83% dark chocolate bar. The flavour was strikingly smooth, subtly fruity and surprisingly complex.

Acknowledging my visible satisfaction, the shop assistant offered another sample that I found, initially, somewhat confusing.

“This next piece I think you’ll quite like. It’s also 83%, yet fermented for one day less than our original 83.”

This time, sure enough, a chocolate of the same percentage was ever so slightly acidic and a bit richer, with notes that lasted on the tongue far longer. The fermentation process generally takes between three and eight days and, under the right conditions, a mere 24 hours can make for a drastically altered flavour profile. As I took in the sights and smells of the store, I noticed a recurring phrase that helped to make

clearer sense of the fine-tuned nuances at play in their offerings: “tree-to-bar.”

Belyzium handles all aspects of the craft operation, from growing and preparing the beans on its property in southern Belize to creating and wrapping each bar on Berlin’s Lottumstraße. It’s a meticulous process, culminating in some of the best chocolate in Europe – put forth, nevertheless, to a sometimes inattentive local audience.

The shop is probably more famous outside Germany than it is among its native population. Still, those in the know about craft chocolate have certainly found their way to the shop, whose aromas waft nearly to the next U-Bahn station. The head roaster and production manager recounted to me how, every once in a while, devotees will bring mini fridges with them in order to stock up on Belyzium’s Tabu bars, which melt at room temperature (and, subsequently, in one’s

cacao | 47

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

mouth). With a long ride on a decidedly unrefrigerated train ahead of me, I opted to leave with a lowferm 83% bar instead.

“My old block in Neukölln had four third-wave coffee shops in the surrounding three streets alone, each more Instagram-friendly than the next.”

Belyzium is at the forefront of a burgeoning craft chocolate scene in Germany – one that, despite a slow start in its home country, is staking out a space in the global market.

While it’s becoming easier to find bean-to-bar products through a number of distributors across Berlin, there are still very few fully-fledged producers in Germany.

But in a city where there is an especially high emphasis on all that is hand-crafted and organically sourced, it seems that an awakening to the world of craft chocolate is imminent. My old block in Neukölln had four third-wave coffee shops in the surrounding three streets alone, each more Instagram-friendly than the next. But, at present, Germany’s bean-to-bar production stands

considerably behind craft chocolate strongholds like the United States and the UK, with the former alone boasting 200-plus producers.

Despite the relatively off-the-radar status of craft chocolate in Berlin and beyond, the Germans do, in fact, love their chocolate. The country accounts for nearly a quarter of the confectionery market in Western Europe. According to Mintel’s research team, Germans consume, per capita, nearly eight kilograms of chocolate each year.

The market for chocolate is clearly massive. However, it’s mostly dominated by multinational manufacturers with seven-figure advertising budgets and a decades-long presence on grocery store shelves.

Consumption habits in Germany tend toward low-percentage milk chocolate bars created in bulk by brands like Milka, Lindt and Ritter Sport. Today, nearly 80% of the chocolate sold in Germany is purchased at supermarkets and convenience stores.

These large-scale trends in consumption are certainly formidable, but they also don’t necessarily lend themselves to deliberation on such details as fermentation time, cacao percentages or diverse flavour notes from around the world. Chocolate

cacao | 48

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Switzerland

8.8

Austria

8.1

Germany

7.9

Ireland

7.9

U.K.

7.6

Sweden

6.6

Estonia

6.5

Norway

5.8

Poland

5.7

Belgium

5.6

Finland

5.4

Slovakia

5.2

The Netherlands

5.1

New Zealand

5.0

Denmark

4.9

Australia

4.9

Czech Republic

4.9

Russia

4.8

U.S.A.

4.4

France

4.3

Brazil

1.2

Japan

1.2

South Africa

0.9

China

0.1

0

5

2.5

7.5

Source: Statista 2019

Per capita consumption of chocolate per year, in kilograms cacao  |  49

10

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Frederick the Great was said to have, from time to time, drunk too much of the rich, thick liquid, and Goethe’s letters to his wife reveal an affinity for the bean.

cacao | 50

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

is undoubtedly a key facet of German life, yet it’s often seen as something mostly free of complexities. Ultimately, the nation’s own unique history with chocolate presents a further explanation of the impediments that stand ahead of a craft revolution.

The cacao bean made its way to Europe in the early 1600s, landing first in Spain and existing mostly as a tonic prescribed as medication. In the following decades it spread to France, Belgium and what was then Germany, as a delicacy enjoyed almost exclusively by the upper classes. It was touted as, amongst other things, an effective aphrodisiac. By the early 1700s, chocolate became more commonplace and was served to those who could afford it in cafés, though nearly always in liquid form. This early version remained stubbornly expensive, due both to the high costs of shipping cacao from Central America and the continued local taxation of luxury goods. It was, nonetheless, a regular indulgence for leading Prussian and German figures; Frederick the Great was said to have drunk too much of the rich, thick liquid from time to time, and Goethe’s letters to his wife reveal an affinity for the bean.

The first place where Germans could easily obtain chocolate was a small-scale manufacturer in Hannover, furnished by Prince Wilhelm von der Lippe. The store opened in 1765 and imported its labourers from Portugal, where chocolate had already been a mainstay for decades. Soon, however, industrialisation saw chocolate start to flood across Western Europe.

Steam engines and hydraulic presses allowed manufacturers to create cheaper powdered cocoa, and ultimately delivered affordable chocolate to the craving masses. With a growing collective sweet tooth and steady technological advancements, factories began to crop up throughout Germany.

After the Franco-Prussian War and Germany’s 1871 reunification, the chocolate industry flourished.

On the tails of an upswing in the economy – which gave consumers wider choice and saw a stark reduction in the importation of French goods, plus cheaper sugar by way of domestic farms – Germany’s standing as a chocolate producer rose, and its people demanded more and more. In Dresden, the de facto capital of German chocolate in the late 1800s with almost 600 tons of chocolate being doled out per year, regulation took hold and

cacao | 51

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

structure was brought to the business of sweets. The Association of German Chocolate Manufacturers, founded in 1877, sought not only to formalise the nation’s chocolate economy, but also to ensure high standards and cacao purity, giving certification to those producers that met their criteria.

The following years brought an increase in overall quality, along with a flurry of upstarts in each region: Reber in Bavaria, Böhme in Leipzig and Stollwerck from Köln, not to mention chocolates shipped in from nearby Switzerland and Austria. No longer did consumers need to settle simply for a choice of dark or milk chocolate either, as Berlin’s Sarotti started to offer flavours including pistachio and strawberry.

Credit: Sven Brinkhoff

While all was momentarily well for the German chocolate scene, the ravages of war did not turn a blind eye to confections. The brutal necessity of food rationing took hold, and chocolate, suffice to say, was not heavily favoured in the face of some of the largest struggles in human history. This is not to assert, however, that it was wholly absent from the two world wars; soldiers themselves used chocolate as both resource and reward. While some troops turned to more incendiary measures in order to fuel dayslong missions, others used chocolate. During World War II, a great many German fighter pilots relied on Scho-Ka-Kola, a highly caffeinated form of bitter, dark chocolate stored compactly in red and white metal cylinders. It became known as ‘aviator chocolate’ and, although the cacao content was under 60%, it contained the same kick as “a strong cup of espresso,” according to its original packaging.

War was not the only hurdle in the development of a more refined chocolate culture in Germany.

Following the end of World War II and the split of Germany into the German Democratic Republic (East) and the Federal Republic of Germany (West), what was once a nationwide advancement in the

cacao | 52

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

cacao | 53

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

cacao | 54

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

dessert industry became similarly divided. While West Germans could experience the luxury of exotic chocolate varieties from the outside world, the East Germans’ centralised economy left them limited to chocolate produced in the GDR. As Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch outline in Chocolate: A Global History, the once-thriving chocolate economy in what was formerly the land comprising East Germany became consolidated into a single entity – the ‘Sweets Combine’ – occupying what had been the nation’s largest factory in Halle. In the face of domestic shortages of basic goods, the quality of chocolate suffered greatly.

“The East German government went as far as to reduce the minimum cacao percentage for milk chocolate to just 7%, ‘falling back on fillers such as cheap fats and pea flour to compensate for more expensive ingredients.’ ” Production hubs like Dresden, which had once been the foundation of a movement striving for

pure cacao and substitute-free chocolate products, had to drastically lower their standards.

During a particularly difficult economic period in 1974, the East German government went as far as to reduce the minimum cacao percentage for milk chocolate to just 7%, “falling back on fillers such as cheap fats and pea flour to compensate for more expensive ingredients” (Chocolate: A Global History, 2009). If the Ossis (as the East Germans were nicknamed) wanted a purer chocolate, they would likely need to wait for a coveted care package – the ‘Westpaket,’ sent by friends and family on the other side of the wall and stuffed with sweets and treats from the free world. Alternatively, visitors to the East could smuggle chocolate over the border, although that was no small task; it would need to have been well-hidden enough to make it through strict checkpoints while at the same time, of course, being protected from melting.

The fall of the Berlin Wall and Germany’s subsequent reunification in 1990 did, in the beginning, prompt East Germans to flock to candy stores and sites of newfound consumer freedom, collecting treats and wares that had previously been verboten. Soon enough, though, a peculiar cultural

cacao | 55

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

phenomenon took hold – called, aptly enough, ‘ostalgie.’ This term refers to a highly specific postCold War nostalgia for life in East Germany and the products attached to it. From state-issued spectacles to the iconic Trabant to, naturally, the comforting taste of familiar chocolate, there quickly grew an industry that catered to these longings. Today, one can even visit stores that exclusively stock GDR goods. However, it’s safe to say that East German chocolate was nothing to fawn over; the most popular bar of the time, Schlager-Süßtafel, had a cacao percentage of less than 10% and was reported to taste, in the words of Exberliner magazine, “like chalk.” Nostalgia is a powerful thing.

Meanwhile, Germany’s reputation across the Atlantic as a chocolate powerhouse was based mostly on misconception. In the US, a dessert known as German chocolate cake became a staple of suburban life in the 1950s; the trouble is, neither the recipe itself nor the chocolate used in the cake came from Germany.

Instead, an intercontinental game of Chinese whispers unravelled to credit an entire nation with the invention of one man: Samuel German. The American baker had come up with a new form of

sweet baking chocolate and sold it to a manufacturer, who named it ‘German’s Chocolate Cake.’ The apostrophe was eventually omitted, and thus Germany’s chocolate identity unwittingly gained another feather in its cap.

Germany’s dynamic and sometimes complicated relationship with chocolate, nevertheless, leaves us today with a country that can’t get enough of the stuff. In returning to Mintel’s survey of the modern market, it is apparent that chocolate in Germany still occupies a space held for quick treats – a sometimes-forbidden, sometimes-deserved pleasure rather than something to be too carefully deliberated upon. According to the study’s findings, Germans are the most likely of all Western Europeans to buy chocolate on impulse (hence the coveted spots near grocery store checkout counters), while 76% of German respondents said they used it as a quick way to improve their mood.

These trends need not exclude craft chocolate from the national confectionery conversation, though.

Just as one sees a robust regional German beer culture existing alongside mass-produced lagers with near-ubiquitous placement

cacao | 56

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

in storefront refrigerators, so too could there be a healthy relationship between supermarket and speciality chocolate.

Despite a slow start, a craft chocolate revolution remains on the horizon of this chocolate-loving country. We should also not forget that even the most basic chocolates were once a luxury, and yet they slowly but surely inched their way into the mainstream. There are certainly avenues through which speciality chocolate may quickly become more popular, such as the growing availability of bean-to-bar

offerings suitable for all palates and preferences. With chocolate-makers like Berlin’s Belyzium and Georgia Ramon in Bonn leading the way, hopefully those who stumble upon these premium products won’t be able to resist passing on the good word. Maybe, someday soon, German shoppers will even find a bean-to-bar option in their neighbourhood Späti. In any case, one thing remains clear: if history tells us anything, it’s that chocolate in Germany – which has survived through good and bad – isn’t going anywhere.

cacao | 57

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

B E AN-TO- BAR BE R LIN Written by Lukas Reinhardt Illustrations by Lagodka

L

ocated in the heart of Europe lies the multicultural metropolis of Berlin. Only a few cities have experienced as many profound changes within such a short period of history as the German capital. Home to a population of nearly four million, the city today thrives on the diversity of its people, each as unique as the next, yet unified by their pride in the term “Berliner.”

If you’ve ever walked the streets of Berlin on a hot summer’s day, you’ll know that time runs a little slower here. What you may find are friends catching up over an ice cream served by their local Italian gelateria whilst dangling their feet in the Spree River to cool off. A warm breeze that rustles the countless trees growing in the city will carry with it a whiff of exotic spices from the endless Turkish döner kebab shops. And in the distance, you might hear voices happily murmuring away from German beer gardens where families are enjoying

a meal together. Look a little further, however, past the blissful aura of the seemingly comfortable life here, and you’ll find an entrepreneurial buzz that’s long taken hold of Berlin like a silent revolution.

Over the last few years, Berlin has established itself as a centre for craft movements in industries such as beer and coffee. Now, a new craft movement eagerly waits on the sidelines, ready to be unleashed within a city already addicted to the food: chocolate. A movement that prioritises quality ingredients, transparency and innovative recipes seems like an obvious winner, yet growth has been surprisingly slow. Moritz kleine Bornhorst, founder of Theyo Berlin (theyo.de), explained to me why this transformation is occurring so slowly: “We don’t really have a versatile and innovative food culture in Germany as in other countries,” he said. “For centuries, food had always been seen as something pragmatic, with the sole purpose of filling your stomach.”

cacao | 59

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Moritz tells me that another reason why changing the perception of chocolate in Germany is so difficult is because of the disconnection from its origins from an early age.

“Kids eating Milka chocolate every day think that chocolate comes from a purple cow. The product has been completely detached from its roots, the cocoa bean.”

Yet, if craft beer is making its mark in a country that’s still governed by beer laws dating back to 1516, surely chocolate can too.

Eager to learn more from those at the forefront of Berlin’s imminent

chocolate revolution, I went to speak to Belyzium, currently the only bean-to-bar maker in Berlin.

They agreed with Moritz, explaining that “changing the status quo and perceptions is always a challenge.” However, Belyzium is dedicated to its cause of “chang[ing] the way the chocolate business works, by setting an example.” Belyzium is confident that craft chocolate will follow the same trend as beer has in Germany in recent years. “Many unique beer styles have effectively disappeared. And the situation has been similar across the food industry for decades. Now we see the tide reversing; people are becoming more and more aware of what they have been missing for years, and have come to support and appreciate craft products.”

Despite the movement’s slow start, the change is undeniable. Over the last four years we have seen more and more craft chocolate on the shelves of chocolate shops in Berlin, elsewhere in Germany and in other European countries,” says Belyzium. “We’re still years behind the US, but it is moving in the same direction.” Moritz too can see the change, telling me: “You can find traditional chocolate manufacturers picking up on the bean-to-bar movement, as well as completely

cacao | 60

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

new players.” Yet he says the greatest challenge remains that “too few people know about these talented makers.”

Still, optimism lingers in the air for craft chocolate lovers in Berlin.

Moritz tells me that he’s “confident that the number of craft chocolate makers will increase rapidly in the coming years, as well as people’s awareness of just how awesome chocolate can taste when you produce it from bean-to-bar without faking the taste with any additives.”

He adds: “Like in London and New York, there will also be specialist chocolate cafés and chocolate-centred food festivals.” Belyzium agrees, stating: “The craft chocolate industry in Germany will definitely expand.”

supermarkets and concept stores.

But the trend will not only affect Berlin, but also Munich, Hamburg and Cologne, with many up-andcoming local manufacturers.”

In a city where a fascination for unique and interesting foods is strong, the question isn’t if craft chocolate will take over Berlin; it’s a matter of when. Craft coffee took a few years to arrive and be fully embraced in the German capital, and it’s likely that craft chocolate will follow a similar path. For now, Berliners can obtain their chocolate bars from speciality shops around the city. One day, however, Moritz predicts: “You will find good craft chocolate products in major cacao | 61

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

BERL I N C RA FT CHOCOL ATE CIT Y GUID E Written by Lukas Reinhardt & Ruby Willow Photography by Lukas Reinhardt

Winterfeldt Schokoladen Winterfeldt Schokoladen is located down the road from the Winterfeldtplatz, a square in the heart of Berlin-Schöneberg that’s well known for its weekly gourmet food markets. Built within a historic pharmacy that dates back to 1892, and with products displayed in the original chemist’s drawers and cupboards, there’s a real feeling of stepping back in time at this chocolate shop and café.

The shop boasts a large selection of craft chocolate, with bars from a range of makers including Georgia Ramon, Zotter and Blanxart. Part of their collection is a range of François Pralus’s 75% bars from various plantations around the world – perfect for anyone looking to compare the complex flavours between different origins.

Address: Goltzstraße 23, 10781 Berlin, Germany cacao | 62

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Schokogalerie Based opposite St. Hedwig Hospital in Berlin-Mitte, Schokogalerie is a shop fully devoted to fine chocolates. The quirky little shop, whose name translates as “the chocolate gallery,” has on display an exciting range of craft chocolate from makers such as Bonnat, Domori and Original Beans. With such a large selection of different makers, origins and percentages, there really is something for everyone at this little paradise for chocolate-lovers!

Address: Große Hamburger Straße 35, 10115 Berlin, Germany

KaDeWe KaDeWe is the largest and most famous department store in Berlin.

The 60,000 square-metre retail store contains more than 380,000 products and boasts an impressive selection of speciality foods from all around the world. The dedicated confectionery department is filled with an array of craft chocolate from makers such as, Morin, Naive, Menakao and many more.

Address: Tauentzienstraße 21-24, 10789 Berlin, Germany

cacao | 63

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Fräulein Schneefeld & Herr Hund This unique café and shop was inspired by the owner’s love of both fine chocolate and beautiful books.

Located in the Prenzlauer Berg area of Berlin, the characterful shop has a selection that’s slightly different from the others’ offerings, featuring difficult-to-find makers such as Iceland’s Omnom and Denmark’s Friis Holm.

Address: Prenzlauer Allee 23, 10405 Berlin, Germany

Rausch Although it’s more a manufacturer than a small-batch chocolate-maker, Rausch is still worth a visit – partly for its incredible chocolate sculptures of iconic Berlin buildings. Rausch was founded in 1918 by the Rausch family, and is still being run by them more than a hundred years later. In 2015 Robert Rausch took over, promising direct trade of their cacao and a single-origin range along with a guarantee that their chocolate would include only three core ingredients: cocoa butter, cocoa mass and unrefined sugar.

Address: Charlottenstraße 60, 10117 Berlin, Germany cacao | 64

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

Belyzium Small-scale tree-to-bar maker Belyzium is currently the only craft chocolate-maker in Berlin, working alongside a second branch in California. It sources its cacao directly from farmers in Belize, and is dedicated to supporting indigenous Mayan growers by paying significantly higher than the Fairtrade market price. The company’s chocolate bars have impressed experts, winning awards from the Academy of Chocolate and the International Chocolate Awards.

As well as producing chocolate daily in its Berlin shop, Belyzium also offers drinking chocolate, which can be enjoyed in a small seated café area. We tried the Belyziano (without milk) and the Belyziatte (with milk), which both use their 85% chocolate, and can confirm that each one is delicious! During the summer months they also offer ice cream made using their own chocolate. Throughout the year you can sign up for workshops to experience the bean-to-bar process first-hand and even learn to make your own chocolate. Handily for visitors, workshops are run in both German and English!

Address: Lottumstraße 15, 10119 Berlin, Germany cacao | 65

SECTION: GERM A NY

G E O RG I A R AMON : PUS HI NG T HE BOUN D AR IE S

I

Written by Lukas Reinhardt & Ruby Willow Image credit: Tom de Vries (captainofgoods.com)

t didn’t feel right to feature Germany without mentioning this internationally renowned, multi-award-winning maker from Bonn. When husband and wife team Georg Bernardini and Ramona Gustmann founded the company in 2015,

they were not newcomers to the world of chocolate. Georg already had nearly 30 years of experience in chocolate, patisserie and confiserie, starting his career as a patisserie apprentice in Bonn.

Later his talents took him to Munich, Paris and beyond. In 1992,

cacao | 66

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

along with Oliver Coppeneur, he established the Confiserie Coppeneur where he would end up working for 18 years. In 2005 they embarked on an exciting and experimental new project together – making bean-to-bar chocolate.

Ramona spent two years as a shop manager at Coppeneur where she gained valuable insights into the bean-to-bar industry, which would soon assist them in the creation of their own chocolate business, Georgia Ramon. Inspired by the craft chocolate revolution occurring in the US and tired of the distinctly average chocolate available in Germany, Georgia Ramon sets out to challenge the tastebuds of German consumers.

Sustainability Transparency is a key value for Georgia Ramon, who welcome anybody to watch them make chocolate in their Bonn shop. They source many of their ingredients organically and buy their beans directly from the cacao plantations or through sustainable cooperatives.

Books After retiring from Confiserie Coppeneur in 2010, Georg spent the next years pouring his expansive knowledge of the chocolate world

into Chocolate – The Reference Standard. This 920-page book is an extensive guide on all things chocolate, including more than 4,000 personal reviews on chocolates made by 550 international chocolate brands. It’s a reference book that’s widely used by craft chocolate-makers around the world.

Flavours “Georgia Ramon” and “boring” are two terms you will never hear in the same sentence. Constantly pushing the boundaries of what people expect to see and taste in chocolate, they are never afraid to try something bizarre and unique.

Their collection consists of combinations such as beetroot and coconut or broccoli and salted almonds.

As well as these controversial flavours, Georgia Ramon also has a range of single origin chocolate, where the flavours of lesser-known fine chocolate origins such as Haiti and Ghana speak for themselves.

The invigorating journey starts before you have even opened the bar, with vibrant packaging that stands out on the shelf for its beautiful and colourful designs.

However you feel about vegetables in chocolate, one thing is for sure – you’ll never run out of something new to try with Georgia Ramon.

cacao | 67

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

BL ACK FOREST TR UF F LE S

Recipe by Ruby Willow Illustrated by Sarah Chand

cacao | 68

SECTION: G ERM A N Y

These rich chocolate truffles are inspired by the mouthwatering flavours of the classic German Black Forest Gateau, with sweet cherries, dark chocolate and a moreish kick of Kirsch. Serve after dinner, give as a gift or eat them all on your own – we won’t blame you!

Makes: 20 truffles (depending on size) Time: 30 minutes, plus 2 hours chilling

Ingredients - 100ml double cream - 30g unsalted butter - 100g good-quality dark chocolate - 1-2 tbsp kirsch (depending on whether you’d like the alcoholic flavour subtle or strong)

- 10 glacé cherries, halved - cocoa powder, to decorate

Method

Making the ganache 1. Use a bain-marie or a bowl set over a pan of water to heat the cream over a medium heat. When bubbles start to appear, turn the heat down to low and add the butter.

2. When the butter has melted, add the dark chocolate and stir together until smooth and glossy.

3. Take off the heat, add your chosen amount of kirsch and mix until completely combined.

4. Pour the ganache mixture into a bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least two hours (if you’re in a rush, pop it in the freezer to speed up the process).

Making the truffles 5. Sift some cocoa powder into a bowl and have a serving dish, gift box or storage container beside it ready to put your finished truffles in.

6. Use a melon baller or a teaspoon to take a small piece of the ganache and pop half a glacé cherry on it. Dip your fingertips in cocoa powder to prevent the ganache from sticking, then use them to roll the mixture around to form a ball that encloses the cherry in the centre.

7. When you have a round ball shape, drop it into the bowl of cocoa powder until totally covered, then carefully remove from the bowl with a fork or cocoa-dusted fingers, shake off the excess powder and place in your dish or box.

8. Dip your fingertips in cocoa again, then repeat with the remaining cherries and ganache. Try to avoid using the palm of your hands as the chocolate can get messy if warmed up too much. If you feel it starting to stick and melt, wipe your hands clean with a cloth, run them under cold water to cool them, then dry off before starting again.

cacao | 69

SECTIO N: BA R

cacao | 70

SECTION : BA R

SECTION

BAR HOW TO TASTE CHOCOLATE: A SENSORY EXPERIENCE

·

WHY FINE CHOCOLATE IS LOYAL TO REAL VANILLA

·

CHILLI CHOCOLATE & COCONUT PUDDING RECIPE

·

MEET THE MAKER: CHOCOLATE NAIVE

cacao

cacao | 71

SECTIO N: BA R

HOW TO TAST E CHOCOL ATE : A SENSO RY E XPE R IE NCE Written by Lilla Toth-Tatai Photography by Charisse Kenion

I

f you enjoy chocolate regularly you might think that there is no difference between eating and tasting your favourite bars. Challenge and excite your senses by following these steps to enhance your chocolate experience and you might find a new favourite to indulge with.

Instead of simply munching away your next bar, involve all five senses whilst minimising any external distractions. You’ll be surprised by how different the same chocolate will taste. We designed the flavour, appearance and mouthfeel wheels on page 76 to help you put your findings into words.

With all this in mind, it’s important to be aware that there is no right or wrong when it comes to tasting chocolate. We all have different tastebuds and culinary backgrounds, and so our responses to flavours can be quite different.

You may find that some chocolates spark old memories, surprise you, comfort you or even confuse you.

That’s all part of the game.

The more you taste, the more you will understand about chocolate and flavours and the more easily you will be able to discern the nuances. Stay open-minded, taste mindfully and, most importantly, enjoy!

cacao | 72

SECTION : BA R

Sight

Hearing

Touch

Take a look at your chocolate and observe some tell-tale signs such as the bar’s colour and surface. Is it bright and glossy? If it isn’t and the chocolate is dull or has white streaks or spots instead, it’s out of temper. This is mainly caused by heat and although the texture may be unpleasantly crumbly and dry, it’s still perfectly fine to eat!

Next, try breaking off your (first) piece. Do you hear a sharp, loud snap? If so, then you have a perfectly tempered bar. If it’s soft and bends before breaking and has little to-no-sound, then the chocolate may be too warm or out of temper.

Gently run your fingers on the surface. Is it dry, sticky, smooth or rough? Does it start to melt straight away as you touch it? If it does, then chances are the bar contains a high percentage of cocoa butter, which coincidentally melts at body temperature.

cacao | 73

SECTIO N: BA R

Smell

Have you ever tried tasting a piece of chocolate whilst holding your nose? Try this first, then smell the same bar before tasting again to compare the differences. Aroma receptors in our nose contribute largely to our tasting experience.

By smelling the chocolate first, you can already discover dominant aromas and see if they deliver in flavour. This works best without strong odours on or around you so your nose is not confused.

Taste

It’s finally time to put those tastebuds to work. Place the piece on your tongue and let it completely melt by moving it around your mouth, only chewing if the chocolate has inclusions or is very thick. Concentrating on the overall flavour profile, ask yourself the following questions. Is it a constant flavour or a developing journey?

How quickly is it melting on your tongue? How does it feel in your mouth? What big flavour groups can you pinpoint? Narrow this down and be as specific as possible.

After your chocolate has slowly melted away, what aftertastes are you left with and how long do they last? The more long lasting and exciting the better!

cacao  |  74

SECTION : BA R

Mouthfeel

y

y vet vel

iny

cha

gre asy

ck

lky

sti

ll

bl o

Taste & Aroma us

ty

dr

k

ied

fr

uit

s

citr

red berrie

s

fru i

al

ic op

tr

its

fru

lnut

haze

cacao

ginger

pepper li chil

almond

wal

nut

sm

al thy

woody

ed

herbs

ast

ear

fee

cacao  |  75

y

cof

o

tobacc

gr as

sy

ok

ro

r flo

nutty

cinnamon

fre s

h

spicy

buttery

ed

illa

nie

l

van

me

ow

mil

br

ra

ca

rm

wa

malt

eet w s

d

du

e

y

tt

y mbl cru

d

y

mar ble

amy

cre

w che

ma

ed

co a

har d

ss

om

sm o h ot

o gl te whairks m

gra

y

bl rum

c

e rs

gh rou

u

ure ct

sh

str

iny

ry

Appearance

SECTIO N: BA R

cacao | 76

SECTION : BA R

W HY F I NE CHOCOL ATE IS LOYA L TO RE AL VAN ILL A Written by Antonella Tromba Photography by Ekrem Canli & Binesh A. B.

T

asty, ethical and authentic – these are among the attributes that fine chocolate-lovers ponder when considering voting for a new brand with their wallet. For self-proclaimed chocolate nerds the purchasing decision may not be that complicated, as labels usually put the differences between apparently similar ingredients within your grasp. That’s also the case for vanilla, a subtle flavour that a few speciality chocolate brands adore including in their products, but which has been widely distorted by the food industry to become something second-rate.

Vanilla is an optional ingredient in chocolate, not necessary for the recipe, but added by many for a delicious extra dimension.

However, the Fine Chocolate Industry Association, the Academy of Chocolate and the International Institute of Chocolate & Cacao Tasting – the trusted organisations

defining the traits to recognise fine chocolate products – only give their green light to the presence of real vanilla in chocolate.

From its origins to its properties, we take a look at why vanilla has such a high reputation as a food ingredient and a particularly strong tie with chocolate.

The History of Vanilla Vanilla has a long history that runs parallel to that of chocolate, its roots dating back to pre-Columbian times.

The first vanilla plants are thought to have originated in modern-day Mexico, domesticated by the Totonac tribe. When the Aztecs from Mesoamerica conquered the Totonacs in the 15th century they demanded regular tributes, with vanilla among them. Vanilla pods start off as green fruit but dry up and turn black shortly after

cacao | 77

SECTIO N: BA R

“The technique was developed in 1841 by an enslaved boy called Edmond Albius on Réunion Island, and it’s still used to this day.” being harvested, which is why the Aztecs called it tlilxochitl (or ‘black flower’). The cured vanilla pods were used as an aphrodisiac and a flavouring ingredient in xocolatl, a noble Aztec drink made from a mix of cocoa bean paste, ground corn, honey, vanilla and various spices.

In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadors, guided by Hernán Cortés, were the first Europeans to taste the Aztec chocolate drink.

Amazed by its rich and delicious flavours, they were inspired to bring both vanilla and cacao back from the New World to the Old Continent. The Spanish also renamed it vainilla, which literally translates as “little pod.”

In the 17th century, vanilla was the exclusive preserve of the European aristocracy and used primarily as an additive in drinking chocolate.

Over the years the aromatic flavour of vanilla was increasingly being showcased on its own, taking

centre stage in various recipes.

By the 18th century, vanilla had spread throughout Europe and the newly invented vanilla ice cream was taking France by storm. Vanilla was now in high demand as both a glamorous fragrance and flavouring ingredient that even the middle class could enjoy. To catch up with the growing demand, the French began planting the orchids within their colonies.

Cultivating vanilla on Bourbon Island (now known as Réunion), French colonists noted that the flowers were not being pollinated by local insects. Belgian botanist Charles Morren was the man that discovered the reason why: the only natural pollinator of vanilla was a bee called Melipona, native only to Mexico and Central America.

The shortage of natural pollinators is the main reason behind vanilla becoming the world’s most expensive food ingredient after saffron.

The process of cultivating vanilla plants and producing natural extracts from their pods without these bees is strenuous and labour-intensive, requiring high levels of precision. The technique was developed in 1841 by an enslaved boy called Edmond Albius on Réunion island, and it’s still used to this day.

cacao | 78

SECTION : BA R

cacao | 79

SECTIO N: BA R

cacao | 80

SECTION : BA R

Workers are first required to pollinate each orchid flower by hand; the flowers only remain open for a brief 24-hours, and unless they are pollinated they subsequently wilt away. A successfully pollinated orchid then begins to bear fruit – the vanilla pods – which mature at their own pace and contain thousands of tiny black seeds. Following the pollination and harvesting stages begins the curing process of the fresh vanilla pods; this typically takes around three to six months.

With the vanilla-growing process proving impossible to industrialise, global demand quickly outstripped supply. However, its popularity never faded and so the hunt for cheaper alternatives began.

It would take two decades before scientists would discover the answer: vanillin.

Natural vanilla is a complex mixture of flavour components extracted from the cured pods of various species of vanilla, the only edible plant genus of the family Orchidaceae, which grows – just like cacao – within 10-20 degrees of the equator.

As with wine, coffee and chocolate, vanilla from different countries will have distinctive flavour

profiles that reflect variations in climate, soil and post-harvesting conditions. For instance, vanilla from Madagascar has a creamy, sweet flavour, while Mexican vanilla is known for its hint of spice, and Tahitian vanilla for its fruity and floral attributes.

Natural vanilla extracts contain more than 250 chemical compounds, and the one that’s most responsible for the classic vanilla flavour is vanillin. It was first isolated in 1858 by French biochemist Nicolas-Theodore Gobley and was later synthesised from pine bark – meaning the vanilla flavour was no longer restricted by the difficulty of growing and hand-pollinating the vanilla orchid.

Briefly summed up, there are three core variations of the vanilla flavour: Natural vanilla extract: Derived from the vanilla pod and extracted using pure alcohol.

Vanillin: A natural flavour alternative for vanilla. Vanillin can be synthesised from various sources including pine bark, clove oil and wood smoke, but contains a less complex flavour profile than a natural vanilla extract.

cacao | 81

SECTIO N: BA R

Ethyl-vanillin: A synthetic molecule that cannot be found in nature. It is two and a half times more potent than vanillin and it’s the characterising flavouring agent responsible for the majority of the vanilla tastes of our childhood memories.

solution has a few advantages. Its high degree of purity and pleasant taste can be further supported by the addition of Vanifolia® Bean, which is derived from real vanilla beans, to mimic even secondary vanilla notes (smoky, spicy or floral, for example).

Owing to the limited supply and high price of vanilla pods, the creation of fake vanilla flavours has now reached an extreme level.

Today, over 95% of vanilla products sold contain no natural vanilla at all. As consumer demand for natural ingredients and clean labels has grown over the years, manufacturers began searching for new alternatives.

But put in simple terms, this quasi-natural vanillin is still not real vanilla – it’s an embellished, clean-halo version of artificial vanillin, with a pretension of terroir.

To keep up with a consumer-driven market, world-leading vanillin supplier Solvay began developing an alternative ‘clean’ solution that comes much closer to the characteristics of natural vanillin. The result, Rhovanil® natural vanillin, can be labelled as ‘natural flavour’ in the US and Europe and command higher prices, despite not being a derivative of real vanilla.

Produced using ferulic acid (a natural organic compound found in rice bran) and a fermentation process, the nature-identical-vanillin

Fine Chocolate Brands Only Use Natural Vanilla Unimpressed by the lack of aromatic complexity in artificial vanilla and wishing to focus on natural ingredients rather than products from a science lab, fine chocolate brands prefer to stick to the real deal.

Vanilla can be present in chocolate either as an alcoholic extract or as a powder finely ground from whole pods. In an industry where transparency is key and the origin of ingredients plays a crucial part in flavour, some fine chocolate brands are going one step beyond the simple declaration of vanilla, opting to clarify its origin as they do with their cacao beans.

cacao | 82

SECTION : BA R

In your average mass-produced chocolate bar, artificial vanillin usually serves the purpose of covering any cocoa defects and softening flaws caused by high-temperature roasting. Meanwhile, in speciality chocolate the function of vanilla is multifaceted, complementing the aromatic flavours of cacao.

Despite an aura of mystery on the complementary functions of vanilla and cacao, the combination of the two has remained an evergreen since the time of the Aztecs. But only by tasting and enjoying fine chocolate can we appreciate those nuances that one ‘corrected’ with artificial vanilla will never reveal.

cacao | 83

SECTION : BA R

CHILL I CHOCOL ATE PUD D IN G W ITH W HI P P ED COCON UT CR E AM

Recipe by Susie Encarnacion & Kat Perry Illustrated by Sarah Chand

cacao | 84

SECTION : BA R

This recipe uses a powerful and moreish 100% chocolate bar, and is a real celebration of the diversity and versatility of chocolate. A big thank you to Makan Malaysia’s Susie and Kat for this mouthwatering dessert, inspired by the fiery flavours of their home country and lovingly created in their kitchen in Reading, England. It’s the perfect finale for a dinner party, as you can prepare it all in advance and simply garnish shortly before serving.

Serves: 4 Time: 20 minutes, plus 4 hours chilling

Ingredients For the chocolate pudding:

For the topping:

- 300ml whole milk - 50g good-quality dark chocolate (we used Chocolat Madagascar 100% Cocoa), broken into small pieces -½ tsp mild chilli powder - 1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 2 tbsp cold water - ½ tbsp maple syrup

- 100ml coconut cream - 100ml double cream - 2 tbsp maple syrup - Chocolate shavings - Minced or finely chopped fresh red chilli, seeds removed

Method Chocolate pudding

Coconut cream

1. Place the milk, chocolate and chilli powder in a saucepan and warm gently on the hob over a low heat, stirring continuously.

1. Place the coconut cream, double cream and maple syrup in a bowl and whip until light and fluffy.

2. Once the chocolate has melted, whisk in the cornflour mixture, then turn the heat up to medium and cook until it thickens to a custard-like consistency, stirring throughout.

3. Remove the pan from the heat and mix in the maple syrup.

4. Divide the mixture evenly between four glasses and cover each one with clingfilm, letting it touch the surface of the chocolate (this will prevent a skin forming on the tops of the puddings).

2. Put the bowl in the fridge and chill for at least an hour.

To serve 1. Remove the clingfilm from the puddings. Spread or spoon the coconut cream on top of each one, or use a piping bag if you’ve got guests to impress.

2. Garnish by sprinkling with chocolate shavings and minced chilli to taste (or pop the two in small bowls on the table and let guests add their own).

5. Put the puddings in the fridge and leave to chill for around four hours.

cacao | 85

SECTION : BA R

M EE T T HE MAK E R : CHOCOL ATE N AIVE

C

Interview by Lukas Reinhardt Photography provided by Chocolate Naive

hocolate Naive was founded by Domantas Užpalis in 2011. Naive’s collections are well known for their unique and delicious flavours, including chocolate with porcini mushroom, chocolate with tahini, or chocolate with peanut butter. One of the company’s most recent developments has been exclusive ‘nano-lot’ bars, where they work together with cacao farmers from around

the world who grow exceptional quality beans that are not widely available. These small batch and exclusive bars highlight the diverse flavours of cacao.

I had the pleasure of speaking to Domantas, where he told me how he went from IT to chocolate, and gave me his thoughts on the importance of packaging and the future of the craft chocolate industry.

cacao | 86

SECTION : BA R

Lukas: Can you tell us where you started and how you ended up in speciality chocolate?

Domantas: I started eight years ago, so it’s been a while now. I was working at an IT company for seven years, and by education, I’m a city planner, so my background isn’t in any way related to food. Then 2008 brought along the credit crunch and financial crisis, and my career stalled. So then I was a little bit lost and asked myself what should I do next. My professional career was not building up as I was expecting, but on reflection it probably was not what I wanted to do anyway.

I always wanted to do something tangible, where you can touch it, transform it, sell it and get the coin in your pocket – something very physical. Once I knew that I wanted to do something creative and maybe something food-related, I had some ideas.

My first business in food was actually working with dairy farmers, selling cheese, fresh milk, sour cream and products like that. But really that was just a platform for other people; I wanted to find an income structure for me, so I focused on the core idea of starting a speciality chocolate project.

And in 2011 that’s what I did. I used the last of my savings from

the pre-crisis period to buy my first tonne of cocoa beans, moved to the countryside and began my chocolate career.

Lukas: So why did you decide to go into chocolate, as opposed to perhaps cheese or another speciality food?

Domantas: I had a muse who showed me how to eat dark chocolate, and that was a real revelation.

It transformed the chocolate experience for me, and I started to look at this product from a different angle. At that time, chocolate was still mainly seen as candy rather than a speciality food, but I had an intuition that craft chocolate would take off. For me, it was quite obvious that it should follow a similar path to established speciality products such as coffee or wine.

When I started, I was telling people that “in five years the chocolate industry is going to be so different and so much more established, just like speciality coffee.” And now I still tell people that “in five years the chocolate industry is going to be so different and so much more established, just like speciality coffee.” So progress has been a bit slower than I expected, but we are seeing some changes nonetheless.

cacao | 87

SECTION : BA R

cacao | 88

SECTION : BA R

“Almost everything we do, we export - 85% is export. So it makes us run faster, think harder and be more creative.”

Lukas: What would you say have been some of the advantages and disadvantages of being one of the few craft chocolate companies in Lithuania?

Domantas: There are very few advantages of being here instead of New York, London or Singapore.

We have to do double. We have to try harder. Practically speaking, we don’t have a local market. Almost everything we do, we export - 85% is export. So it makes us run faster, think harder and be more creative.

One of the good things about being here is being able to highlight the region I come from. There are beekeepers, cheese makers and other slow food colleagues that surround and support me, so I definitely embrace their craft. I use it as inspiration, incorporating and interpreting it in my chocolate. Some of my recipes include ingredients that are very specific to this region but aren’t very well known yet. Take the porcini mushroom, for example – it’s a well-known flavour but

one that’s not been used in chocolate before, so that became a unique mix that’s exclusive to Naive.

Lukas: I love the porcini mushroom and chocolate combination – it’s absolutely delicious. How were you able to balance the flavours so finely?

Domantas: You know, some recipes are born out of pure coincidence. We don’t force the recipe.

Sometimes an idea just appears and then we test and we try and we fail.

Many recipes never see the market, because although the concept of them is interesting and unique, it doesn’t work for some reason.

With the porcini bar, for example, it took half a year of calibration and testing until we started perfecting the proportions and the sequence of events we need to take in order to execute it. It’s never easy, but it can have amazing outcomes. That’s why I am against easy recipes.

Some recipes are just too easy – I could give you 10 recipes just now off the top of my head that I know would work. Rosemary, lavender and almonds, that’s one recipe.

Another would be hazelnuts, cocoa nibs and salt. No, it’s too easy, and when it’s too easy then I don’t see value in it. I would rather pick one

cacao | 89

SECTION : BA R

ingredient and try to make something out of it, and see if it works at all.

Lukas: As well as your unique flavours, I also find your branding is a piece of art by itself. Can you tell us a little bit about the story and message behind your packaging?

Domantas: Packaging is a big subject in the food industry. I am actually becoming a bit tired of the packaging myself, and I kind of understand this anti-packaging

movement, which promotes less packaging. I’d like to see less attention on the outer surface, because the focus should be on what’s on the inside, the actual product. We had this debate with ourselves whether we should go in the anti-packaging direction, or maybe make something really avant-garde, unorthodox and artistic. But I was just not 100% confident about going in this anti-packaging direction. I thought it was a bit too risky, at least at the moment. So we decided to go down the artistic route. The end product

cacao | 90

SECTION : BA R

was a collaboration between very talented people – an industrial designer, graphic designer, painter, paper constructor – and us. And we joined forces because we wanted to make something really unique and new.

Developing our packaging is a constant process. We weren’t satisfied, so we continued to look for new ideas and shapes and visual identity until we were more or less happy with it. This latest and newest version finally feels like what I had been searching for in the last eight years. It represents where we are at the moment, how we see our product, how I want chocolate to be positioned and how I see the chocolate industry in general. And I think it sends out some messages to position it as a fine luxury food – futuristic, retro-modern, something to cherish. This is what I want chocolate to be and how I want to position this actual product.

Lukas: It’s interesting to hear how you are pushing for chocolate to be positioned in a different way than it has been in the past. But as your packaging has changed over the years, your logo has always stayed the same – which is a man on a bicycle. What’s the story behind this man?

Domantas: If you look closely, you can see it’s one wheel rather than two. Which is a stupid and naive idea – a bit like our project really.

I still find it a bit stupid to make chocolate in a country with no chocolate-making traditions, and out in the countryside where we started. It was very obvious that it was a silly and naive idea, and the symbol of the one wheel kind of represents this word: naive.

Lukas: So what’s next for Naive?

What’s your vision with it from here?

Domantas: Right now we are small and we intend to stay small – no plans for expansions and no plans for new factories and new people. I want to keep it small. We made this decision after a period of intensive growth – the company was growing by 30%-40% every year – and that growth brought a lot of stress and a lot of frustration. And then we had to make some decisions and steps that I was not 100% confident with.

So instead of scaling up, I actually decided to scale down so I could focus more on quality. It means that our output is less, but we produce better chocolate. We can supervise better and we can pay attention to details. We can invest more in the raw materials and into

cacao | 91

SECTION : BA R

the packaging and have more time to make chocolates. So that’s my vision: just to stay in these shoes for now and see where that takes us.

“We need to find a way to position this industry.

I want to learn from other industries’ mistakes and successes so we can select a path and follow it.”

farmers and to establish an understanding of different origins and different plantations.

Lukas: That sounds great. So what is it about the speciality chocolate industry that you love the most?

Lukas: That’s an interesting vision, especially in a world that’s constantly addicted to growth. You mentioned that you took these steps also to invest more in your raw materials – how closely do you work with the cocoa farmers?

Domantas: I think it’s the people. I mean, first of all, this industry is full of crazy people that I love. Everyone has different backgrounds, stories and experiences. It’s the same with beekeepers – a beekeeper is a nice person by default. Same with chocolate makers, they are nice people by default. My network is filled with these crazy people around the world. I can travel to any country, call them and they will invite me to grab a beer, visit their factory, or exchange ideas and brainstorm a bit.

Domantas: We work pretty closely! One of our collections, which is called nano-lots, is based on the idea that it’s all direct trade with exclusive growers who work on a small scale just like ourselves. So we are able to buy directly at very premium prices, sometimes five times the market price or more.

I think it’s the fairest business model that can be set up for the small-scale farmers. This collection enables us to work with a range of

Also, you have to deal with cocoa farmers, who are crazy as well. You are able to travel to cocoa-growing countries, to plantations. You have to deal with engineers, with technical stuff, you have to understand the processing. You have to crack the process, get the knowledge. It’s all knowledge-based production.

It’s not easy – there are so many steps in production compared to other food industries. I find it very sophisticated and very challenging.

cacao | 92

SECTION : BA R

We like challenges ourselves.

Sometimes it feels too challenging, but mainly that’s what I like.

Lukas: I love that! Is there anything you think craft chocolate can learn from other industries?

Domantas: For me, we need to find a way to position this industry. I want to learn from other industries’ mistakes and successes so we can select a path and follow it.

I think we have great quality and very interesting niche products that

need to be developed. Champagne and wine are well-promoted as being super-exclusive, and I think we need to catch up and create something similar with chocolate.

The way you position the product is the way it will develop. On the other side, the craft beer industry hit the top at two to three quid per bottle. That’s the tops.

I really don’t want that limiting factor. I want expensive chocolate, I want one-hundred-euro bars.

I want something exciting.

cacao | 93

SECTION : BA R

Lukas: That’s a really interesting point of view. Do you think that big chocolate brands will have any impact on the bean-to-bar movement? And if so, are you concerned about this at all?

Domantas: I don’t think it’s a problem. Actually, I think it’s an opportunity. If the big guys start looking into speciality chocolate and start initiating projects, this is the only way the actual change can be made.

Because of their impact, their size and their capital, these companies are able to make a change in the industry. With us, we are so little and our impact is so small, we cannot even compare. So I would be excited about a big chocolate company starting to promote its products in a different way and in a way that’s similar to ours. I think it’s all beneficial.

game and it’s a race. I think there’s going to be much more awareness, and we will see more producers entering the market, and new interesting stuff coming out. I think there will be some new formats and new ways of consuming chocolates, which is something I am working on myself at the moment. But I definitely think people will be more aware of craft chocolate and at the very least understand the basics.

Whatever happens, it’s going to be exciting!

Lukas: For sure! It’s a very exciting time to be in chocolate!

Lukas: I guess you’re right – like the saying goes, “a rising tide lifts all boats.” So what are your predictions for the coming years? What is your five-year prediction now for speciality chocolate?

Domantas: I still say “it’s going to be so much more established, so much closer to coffee…” But really I don’t know. Coffee, tea, wine and beer are all developing as well. It’s a cacao | 94

Check out Naive’s delicious collection at: www.chocolatenaive.com

SECTION : BA R

cacao cacao | 95