- TatyanaLeonov_DRIVEN_Eat&Drink
3/12/2014 10:05 am
Tat yan a Le Leo o nov n ov Writer & Editor
E at & Dr i n k w i t h Tat ya n a Le o n ov
DRIVEN Issue 1 2014
Get to know Curtis stone T h i s A u s s i e c h e f , b e s t s e l l i n g a u t h o r a n d T V p e r s o n a l i t y r e l e a s e d h i s f i f t h c o o k b o o k , W h a t ’s f o r D i n n e r ? : R e c i p e s f o r a B u s y
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- TatyanaLeonov_DRIVEN_Eat&Drink
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Life, in April M y f a v o u r i t e f o o d i n t h e w o r l d i s m y m u m’s r o a s t p o r k d i n n e r w i t h c r a c k l i n g . I t t a s t e s s o d a m n g o o d a n d r e m i n d s m e o f family dinners. M y f a v o u r i t e d i s h t o m a k e at the moment would have to be my caramel pot de crème from my latest c o o k b o o k W h a t ’s F o r D i n n e r ? b e c a u s e i t m a k e s e v e r y o n e s m i l e . M y c o o k i n g p h i l o s o p h y i s t o c o o k a s M o t h e r N a t u r e intended and treat ingredients simply. Mother Nature did such a fine job why tamper with her good work? W h e n I ’ m i n A u s t r a l i a I l o v e t o e a t at so many places! Australia is brimming with interesting restaurants, but my favourite place would h a v e t o b e m y m u m’s p l a c e ! I ’ m i n s p i r e d b y M a r c o P i e r r e W h i t e . H e w a s m y m e n t o r f o r s o m a n y y e a r s a n d r e a l l y s h a p e d m y a p p re c i at i o n fo r Fre n c h c u i s i n e – a n d t a u g h t m e s o m u c h ! T h e o n e d i s h I c a n ’ t l i v e w i t h o u t i s a s p r i n g l a m b ro a s t . I m i s s Aussie lamb! Yo u ’d b e s u r p r i s e d t o f i n d ice cubes laced with summer berries in my freezer. Th e c u l i n a r y t o o l e v e r y o n e n e e d s i s a g o o d k n i f e . Yo u d o n’ t n e e d a s e l e c t i o n o f 2 0 , j u s t a n i c e s h a r p c h e f ’s k n i f e a n d a s o l i d c h o p p i n g b o a r d a n d y o u ’ r e halfway there. F o r f u n I get out in my veggie garden with my son Hudson and our golden retriever. curtisstone.com C u r t i s S t o n e’s A s i a n c r a b c a k e s w i t h m a n g o c h u t n e y • serves 6 • Prep time: 45 minutes • Cooking time: 15 minutes • make-ahead: The chutney can be made up to one week ahead. Up to step 3, the crab cakes can be made up to 8 hours ahead, covered and refrigerated. INGREDIENTS Mango chutney • 1⁄2 cup sugar • mango, pitted, peeled, and cut into 5mm dice • 1⁄4 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice • sea salt Crab cakes • 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise • 1 large egg • 2 tablespoons Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce • 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander • 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil • 1-2 teaspoons seeded and finely chopped medium red chilli • 1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt • Finely grated zest of 1 lime • 1⁄4 cup finely chopped spring onions, whiteand green parts • 500g crabmeat, picked over for cartilageand shells, well drained • 11⁄2 cups panko ( Japanese bread crumbs) • 6 tablespoons canola oil • 60g unsalted butter • 1⁄2 Lebanese cucumber, sliced into thinrounds, and then into m at c h s t i c k- s i ze s t r i p s • Fre s h c o r i a n d e r s p r i g s , fo r g a r n i s h • F l a k y s e a s a l t , s u c h a s M a l d o n o r f l e u r d e s e l , fo r g a r n i s h METHOD 1 . To m a k e t h e c h u t n e y : H e a t a m e d i u m h e a v y s a u c e p a n o v e r m e d i u m h e a t f o r 2 m i n u t e s . A d d t h e s u g a r a n d c o o k w i t h o u t stirring, tilting the pan as needed so that the sugar cooks evenly for about 5 minutes or until it melts into an amber caramel. Do not stir or the caramel will crystallise. Remove from heat and stir in the mango (the caramel will seize), then the rice vinegar and lime juice. Return to medium heat and stir constantly for about 5 minutes, or until the mango is translucent and t h e c a r a m e l i s d i s s o l v e d a n d s y r u p y . Tr a n s f e r t o a b o w l a n d l e t c o o l . S e a s o n w i t h s a l t . 2 . To p r e p a r e t h e c r a b c a k e s : I n a l a r g e b o w l , w h i s k t h e m a y o n n a i s e , e g g , f i s h s a u c e , g i n g e r , c o r i a n d e r , s e s a m e o i l , c h i l l i , s a l t , and lime zest together, then whisk in the spring onions. Add the crabmeat and stir to coat, breaking it apart coarsely to l e ave s m a l l w h o l e c h u n k s i n t h e m i x t u re . Fo l d i n t h e p a n ko . Cove r a n d re f r i g e r at e t h e c r a b m i x t u re fo r 3 0 m i n u t e s s o t h at t h e mixture is easier to form. Using about 1/3 cup of the crab mixture for each cake, shape into 12 x 2cm-thick crab cakes and place on a baking tray. 3 . To c o o k t h e c r a b c a k e s : P r e h e a t t h e o v e n t o 9 5 ° C / 7 5 ° C f a n - f o r c e d . L i n e a b a k i n g t r a y w i t h p a p e r t o w e l s . H e a t a l a r g e nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the canola oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter and heat u nt i l h ot b u t n ot s m o k i n g . Wo r k i n g i n 2 b atc h e s , f r y 6 c ra b c a ke s fo r a b o u t 2 m i n u te s o n e a c h s i d e , o r u nt i l c r i s p a n d g o ld e n , a d j u s t i n g t h e h e a t a s n e e d e d t o b r o w n e v e n l y w i t h o u t s c o r c h i n g . Tr a n s f e r t o t h e b a k i n g t r a y a n d k e e p w a r m i n t h e o v e n . Wipe out the pan with paper towels and repeat with the remaining canola oil, butter, and 6 crab cakes. 4 . To s e r v e : P l a c e 2 c r a b c a k e s o n e a c h p l a t e . S p o o n s o m e m a n g o c h u t n e y o v e r a n d b e s i d e c r a b c a k e s . To p e a c h w i t h t h e cucumber and garnish with the coriander sprigs and sea salt.
Sydney goes Greek P e t e r C o n i s t i s h a s f l o w e d i n a n d o u t o f S y d n e y ’s r e s t a u r a n t s c e n e f o r y e a r s . T h i s y e a r h e i s b a c k . . . w i t h a b a n g – a d e l i c i o u s l y
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decadent bang of all good things Greek Alpha T h e w h i t e g l a s s s l i d i n g d o o r s t o P e t e r C o n i s t i s’ m o s t r e c e n t e n d e a v o u r t r a n s p o r t s y o u b a c k t o At h e n s , w h e r e t r a d i t i o n m e e t s contemporary: ancient text carved into a large ruin-like wall, airy white high ceilings and soft glowing lights. The Hellenic site houses a mezze bar, a casual restaurant and food store surrounded by village-inspired installations. Cooking alongside h i s m o t h e r , P e t e r ’s c u l i n a r y p a s s i o n h a s e x i s t e d i n S y d n e y f o r 2 0 y e a r s w i t h C i v i c D i n i n g , t h e t w o - h a t t e d O m e g a , C o s m o s , a n d E l e n i ’s r e s t a u r a n t – n o w w i t h t h e $ 4 m i l l i o n A l p h a e s t a b l i s h m e n t a n d p l a n s t o f u r t h e r e x p a n d h i s G r e c i a n e m p i r e . G r e e k cocktails are available with a selection of wines from Australia and various regions of Hellas with your mezze and home cooked pita starters. The spanakopita, dolmades and Greek-spiced slow-roasted lamb shoulder are the traditional favourites f r o m t h e m e z z a n i n e k i t c h e n . A n d a ‘ v i n t a g e’ s e c t i o n o f f e r s t h e s i g n a t u r e m o u s s a k a , s i l k y l a y e r s o f e g g p l a n t , c r e a m w i t h seared scallops along with the rabbit and black olive pie. Contemporary dishes are sure to intrigue; an ouzo-cured ocean trout, the mastic-spiced quail fetta watermelon salad and the loukoumades, a Greek spiced honey syrup doughnut ball served with candied walnut ice-cream. Good wholesome Greek food, kali orexi! alpharestaurant.com.au Anatoli at the Eastern M a t t F i t z g e r a l d , h e a d c h e f a t S y d n e y ’s A n a t o l i , d o e s n’ t l o o k l i k e y o u r t y p i c a l G r e e k c h e f b u t h e d o e s p u t a m e a n G r e e k m e a l together. He shares (some) of his secrets with DRIVEN W h a t i n s p i r e d t h e m e n u ? F o r A n a t o l i ’s m e n u , I s t a r t e d w i t h t h e f a n t a s t i c p r o d u c e a v a i l a b l e i n A u s t r a l i a , t h e n g a t h e r e d ideas and inspiration from the diverse produce of Greece and its cuisine to create what we call a modern Greek-inspired menu. W h a t d o e s t r u e G r e e k d i n i n g m e a n t o y o u ? S h a r i n g ! I t ’s t h e G r e e k w a y t o h a v e p l e n t y o f d i s h e s a n d s h a r e t h e m w i t h f a m i l y , f r i e n d s a n d g u e s t s w h i l e e n j o y i n g e a c h o t h e r ’s c o m p a n y a n d a f e w w i n e s o r o u z o ! A r e t h e r e a n y t r a d i t i o n a l G r e e k cooking methods used in the Anatoli kitchen? I spent countless hours researching Greek cuisine and putting what I learnt into practice by getting into the kitchen with two generations of Greek families. I certainly picked up some family secrets a lo n g t h e way. W h e n t h e m e a l s we re d e s i g n e d , w h at fa c to r s we re t a ke n i nto a cco u nt? We a re u t i l i s i n g t h e f l avo u r s a n d i n g re d i e nt s of Gre e ce to co m e u p w i t h d i s h e s , n ot j u s t re wo r k i n g o ld Gre e k d i s h e s t h at eve r yo n e k n ow s . We a re t r y i n g to b e m u c h m o r e o r i g i n a l i n w h a t w e d o , r a t h e r t h a n f o l l o w t h e t r a d i t i o n a l r o u t e , a n d o f f e r s o m e t h i n g S y d n e y h a s n’ t e x p e r i e n c e d before. W h a t i s y o u r f a v o u r i t e f o o d r e g i o n i n G r e e c e ? I would have to say Crete as it has an abundance of produce from the land and sea, as well as some fantastic wines. W h a t ’ s y o u r f a v o u r i t e d i s h o n t h e m e n u ? T h e l a m b b e l l y w i t h s u m a c , m u s t a r d a n d r o a s t w a l n u t s i s v e r y t a s t y a n d i t ’s a c u t o f m e a t y o u d o n’ t s e e t o o o f t e n o n m e n u s . I a l s o l o v e t h e r o a s t s a r d i n e s . W h a t i n s p i r e d t h e o p e n p a s t r y k i t c h e n ? It all came down to space; our savoury kitchen is small as it is and utilising that love ly l a rg e b a r i n t h e ce nt re of t h e re s t a u ra nt to f i t i n a p a s t r y a re a wa s a s e n s i b le c h o i ce . We d o a l l o u r d e s s e r t s , b re a d fo r the taramasalata and our Greek-inspired petit fours there. theeastern.com.au/anatoli
S u r f n’ Tu r f S u r r o u n d e d b y t h e o c e a n , i t ’s n o w o n d e r r e s t a u r a n t s a l l a r o u n d t h e A u s t r a l i a n c o a s t l i n e s e r v e s c r u m p t i o u s f i s h s t r a i g h t o u t o f the sea. Australian beef is also world renowned. Here, two restaurants that serve up the best of land and sea F o r s e a f o o d : Flanagans Dining Room in Thirroul, NSW S u m m e r i s h e r e , a n d t h e s p o t t o b e f o r d i n n e r? O v e r l o o k i n g t h e b e a c h – o f c o u r s e . L o c a t e d o n t h e s t u n n i n g s h o r e l i n e o f T h i r r o u l B e a c h i n N S W, F l a n a g a n s D i n i n g R o o m o f f e r s u n s p o i l e d v i e w s o v e r t h e Ta s m a n S e a . T h e s e t t i n g i s t h e i d e a l b a c k d r o p f o r t h e r e s t a u r a n t ’s f r e s h a n d s i m p l e p h i l o s o p h y t h a t u t i l i s e s t h e b e s t w i l d - c a u g h t s e a f o o d a n d l o c a l l y - s o u r c e d p r o d u c e . T h i s focus on using seasonal ingredients means no two days at Flanagans are the same, so exploring the menu is fun each and eve r y t i m e . He a d c h e f A r m a n Uz s o u rce s h i s s e afo o d d a i ly f ro m t h e s u r ro u n d i n g Wo l lo n g o n g co a s t , m a k i n g t h e m e n u re p le te w i t h a b r o a d v a r i e t y o f w i l d f i s h s u c h a s b o n i t o , l e a t h e r j a c k e t a n d J o h n D o r y . “ I d o n’ t o r d e r , I c h o o s e t o p i c k u p o u r s e a f o o d every morning, just after it comes off the boat. I never know the menu for the day until I see what has been caught that m o r n i n g ,” A r m a n s a y s . “ U s u a l l y J o h n D o r y , y e l l o w t a i l k i n g f i s h , s n a p p e r , y e l l o w f i n t u n a , b r e a m , r o c k c o d , m o n k f i s h , g a r f i s h ,
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squid, mullet and leather jacket are common, but it changes daily. What remains constant is the short time from ocean to t h e p l a t e .” A r m a n c o m b i n e s t r a i n i n g i n h i s Tu r k i s h h o m e l a n d a n d r e n o w n e d S y d n e y r e s t a u r a n t , E f e n d y , t o a d d a contemporary Middle Eastern and Mediterranean touch to the menu – but lets the freshness of the produce speak for itself, concentrating on simple and classic flavours. His signature dishes include pickled and grilled bonito with mustard cress and pinenuts; confit leg and roasted breast of guineafowl with fava bean puree and shimeji mushrooms; and an adaptation of Tu r k i s h s t r e e t f o o d c a l l e d o c t o p u s k o k o r e c h . M u s t - t r y d i s h : T h e r e’s n o t h i n g q u i t e l i k e f r e s h g r i l l e d f i s h ( c a t c h o f t h e d a y o f c o u r s e ) . S o s e d u c t i v e l y s i m p l e i t ’s c e l e s t i a l . f l a n a g a n s d i n i n g r o o m . c o m . a u F o r s t e a k : Steakhouse ‘98’ in Rockhampton, Queensland Rockhampton is known as the beef capital of Australia, mainly because of the sheer concentration of cattle within the area – Australia has between 26 to 28 million head of cattle across the country, with Rockhampton sitting at approximately four to five million of that. The region is covered in prime cattle-raising pasture and, better still, produces some of the most b e a u t i f u l t a s t i n g a n d t e n d e r b e e f o f a n y a r e a i n A u s t r a l i a . T h e p l a c e t o g e t t h e b e s t s t e a k ? S t e a k h o u s e ‘ 9 8 ’ i s R o c k h a m p t o n’s signature steakhouse – here the meat comes super tender and succulent. Doogan O’Hanlon, owner and passionate beef eater, says, “while we source a lot of beef locally and also from other leading Australian beef producing areas, we have a tenderisation process and precise ageing time for all of our beef to go through before we will let it hit our char grill. This p r o c e s s t h e n e n s u r e s u s t o c o n s i s t e n t l y p r o d u c e s u c c u l e n t , j u i c y t a s t i n g s t e a k f o r t h e d i n e r .” W h a t ’s t h e p r o c e s s w e h e a r y o u a s k? “A l l o f o u r b e e f i s w e t - a g e d v a c u u m - s e a l e d f o r a m i n i m u m o f s i x w e e k s . T h i s b r e a k s d o w n t h e s t r u c t u r a l p r o t e i n s w i t h i n the muscle tissue, 70 per cent of the breakdown occurs within the first 10 days of this process and then the optimum time is f r o m t h e s i x - w e e k m a r k .” M u s t - t r y d i s h : ‘ Te y s G o l d ’ e y e f i l l e t . “ I t ’s a l o c a l e y e f i l l e t a n d i t i s j u s t s e n s a t i o n a l ,” s a y s D o o g a n . . . in between bites. 98.com.au/restaurant.htm
5 minutes with Ruth Gallace from Rebello Ruth Gallace and her husband Matt started boutique winery and cider house Rebello some eight years ago, making fruit wines u s i n g b e r r i e s f r o m t h e f a m i l y f a r m o n V i c t o r i a’s M o r n i n g t o n P e n i n s u l a . Tw o y e a r s a g o t h e y m o v e d t o c i d e r , p r o d u c i n g A u s t r a l i a’s f i r s t 1 0 0 p e r c e n t r e a l f r u i t - b l e n d e d c i d e r , C h e e k y R a s c a l , a n d e x p e r i e n c e d s u c h p h e n o m e n a l s u c c e s s t h a t t h e t r i a l run sold out before production even finished. They have since won a string of accolades, both nationally and internationally. We c h at to Ru t h a b o u t t h e i r s u cce s s W h a t i n s p i r e d y o u t o s t a r t R e b e l l o ? M a t t ’s p a r e n t s o w n o n e o f t h e l a r g e s t s t r a w b e r r y f a r m s i n A u s t r a l i a , S u n n y R i d g e , and a lot of product is simply not suitable for supermarkets or wholesale markets due to it being out of shape or slightly b r u i s e d . We wa nte d to f i n d a u s e fo r t h at f r u i t a n d , b e i n g s i t u ate d o n t h e Mo r n i n g to n Pe n i n s u l a , we s aw w i n e a s a re a l ly viable option. At the time, a lot of the fruit wine made in Australia was of poor quality so we saw this as an opportunity to set the standard in quality fruit wines in this country. H o w d i d t h e n a m e R e b e l l o c o m e a b o u t ? R e b e l l o i s a p l a y o n t h e I t a l i a n w o r d f o r r e b e l . M a t t ’s g r a n d f a t h e r c a m e t o Australia from Italy some three decades ago and bought land on the Mornington Peninsula where he planted fruit trees. On a holiday, his son Mick thought the land would be better suited to strawberries and pulled the trees and replanted the land w i t h s t r a w b e r r i e s , a n d S u n n y R i d g e S t r a w b e r r y Fa r m w a s b o r n . We w a n t e d t o r e f l e c t t h a t s e n s e o f r e b e l i n t h e f a m i l y a n d o u r own move to break away from the family business and do something completely different – while still respecting the traditional winemaking techniques handed down over generations. W h y d i d y o u d e c i d e t o m o v e i n t o c i d e r s ? C i d e r s t a r t e d g a i n i n g a c u l t f o l l o w i n g i n 2 0 1 0 b u t t h e r e w e r e n’ t a n y 1 0 0 p e r ce nt re a l f r u i t - b le n d e d c i d e r s i n Au s t ra l i a . We d e c i d e d to c h a n g e t h at ! Th e f i r s t c i d e r s we m a d e we re a p p le a n d s t raw b e r r y a p p l e . T h e p o p u l a r i t y o f o u r c i d e r s h a s t a k e n u s a l l b y s u r p r i s e , a n d w e’ v e c o n t i n u e d t o e v o l v e t h e r a n g e t o n o w i n c l u d e seven new varietals never attempted before, which are based purely on consumer feedback. Te l l u s a b o u t t h e p a i r i n g o f y o u r w i n e s a n d c i d e r s w i t h f o o d . Our products extend from sparkling fruit wines made with 100 per cent real strawberries, to ciders made from different varieties of apple and berries, depending on the season. W e d o n’ t u s e a d d i t i v e s , f l a v o u r i n g s o r c o n c e n t r a t e s i n o u r p r o d u c t s . O u r m o s t s u c c e s s f u l s p a r k l i n g ‘ S t r a w b e l l i n i ’ [ t h e o n l y Au s t r a l i a n s p a r k l i n g t o b e aw a rd e d a d o u b l e g o l d m e d a l at t h e S a n Fr a n c i s c o In t e r n at i o n a l W i n e Co m p e t i t i o n a l o n g w i t h F r a n c e’s r e n o w n e d V e u v e C l i c q u o t a n d A m e r i c a’s P i p e r S o n o m a ] i s p e r f e c t w h e n s e r v e d a l o n g s i d e s m o k e d s a l m o n a n d s c r a m b l e d e g g s . O r f o r a r e a l i n d u l g e n c e t r y i t w i t h s o m e o f S u n n y R i d g e’s f r e e z e - d r i e d c h o c o l a t e - c o a t e d s t r a w b e r r i e s . O u r products are just as good paired with decadent dishes such as confit duck ravioli in buerre noisette with mixed leaves, fresh pomegranate and apple cider vinaigrette; finished off with Strawberry Port infused Stilton cheese... or simply with your
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- TatyanaLeonov_DRIVEN_Eat&Drink
3/12/2014 10:05 am
favourite roast. W h a t o t h e r p r o d u c t s h a v e y o u l a u n c h e d ? Our most recent product is Cheeky Little Batch – artisan batches of cider made with victorian heritage kingston black and Dabinett cider apples, some wild yeast and an oak barrel ferment – which was paired perfectly most recently at the Brunswick Street Cider House in Melbourne with German-inspired succulent pork belly roast. A r e p e o p l e a b l e t o v i s i t y o u r c e l l a r d o o r o r i s i t a l l o n l i n e ? We h ave a ce l l a r d o o r at Su n ny Ri d g e St raw b e r r y fa r m , a s well as online. W h a t ’s n e x t f o r R e b e l l o ? In November, we will release a Methode Cider, which is an alternative to sparkling wine or C h a m p a g n e . I t ’s m a d e u s i n g 1 0 0 p e r c e n t l o c a l g r a n n y s m i t h a p p l e s , w i t h o n l y 1 0 0 0 b o t t l e s t o b e i n i t i a l l y p r o d u c e d . A n d w e are extending our products to more independent outlets across Australia and are looking at export markets particularly in South East Asia. rebellowines.com.au
C o p y r i g h t & c o p y ; 2 0 1 4 , Ta t y a n a L e o n o v . A l l r i g h t s r e s e r v e d .
http://tatyanaleonov.squarespace.com/tatyanaleonov_driven_eatdrink/
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