I realize now how much engineering has helped me understand life.
more,” says Kharey. “That’s when I decided to just stop what I’d been doing with Nonie and do something better for the earth and for people — I wanted to make something that was needed.” In 2021, Kharey’s technical savvy, fashion pedigree and commitment to meaningful work converged in the creation of her company, Folds, which develops “disruptive” techwear for medical professionals. Modern medical attire hasn’t had a shining moment since the 1970s. That’s when female nurses stopped wearing white dresses and caps, and surgical greens — a.k.a. the “scrubs” worn by male nurses and surgeons — became the norm across the medical community. It was a practical, unifying step. Oddly, however, aside from the introduction of colourful patterns and some moisturewicking fabrics, the look and feel of scrubs has remained immune to sartorial and technological advancements. When COVID put health-care professionals in the spotlight, Kharey decided she could do better for them. While white-collar professionals can clothe themselves in designer suits, “health-care professionals, who are so dedicated to their work, have to wear uniforms that haven’t been updated in decades.” Nurses, doctors, and other professionals in scrubs should have their own version of a Prada suit, she says. With a Star Trek-meets-Lululemon aes-
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thetic, Kharey’s line of scrubs are as practical as they are, dare we say, sexy. The tops are tailored rather than boxy, and the pants are joggers with a drawstring and elasticized ankle cuffs. The uniforms come in juicy colours with names like Mars, Neptune and Ocean. While the company’s official word on the intention of the clothing line is that “Folds is for health-care professionals … anyone who needs protective, performancebased medical techwear which is also good for our planet,” Kharey says the scrubs are popular among chefs. The Folds fabric has been Kharey’s happiest point of pride. For a moment, she had considered using fabric made antibacterial via a DuPont product. But then: “A friend pointed me to the documentary The Devil We Know [a 2018 film that explores health hazards and coverups by the chemical company] and I was like, ‘no way.’” Soft and stretchy, the fabric Kharey landed on instead is a feat of innovation that called for a deep dive into her engineering mind. Working in partnership with a Spanish tech company and a lab that is also in Spain, Kharey developed a protective, breathable, naturally hydrating fabric, made from recycled material, that has antiviral, antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. It uses silver technology and a carbon compound to inhibit the growth of bacteria and viruses.
Basically, viruses can’t live on the material and, so, as Kharey explains, the scrubs reduce risk of infection by not releasing polluted microfibers into the air. Testing by the Doherty Institute (an academic research institute in Melbourne, Australia) shows that the antiviral technology eliminates more than 99 per cent of viruses tested, including staphylococcus and SARS-CoV-2. Dr. Robin Gallardi, an oral and maxillofacial surgeon in Chicago, was an early fan of Folds. “I’ve tried many scrubs, and these are the most comfortable and durable — they withstand laundering and look brand new every time I put them on,” she says. “Considering the current climate, I’ve been especially impressed with their antimicrobial technology.” Folds also reflects Kharey’s move to reduce environmental harm. “The textile industry is responsible for four per cent of global solid waste — it’s the third-most polluting industry,” says Kharey. She and her team of five are working toward B Corp. certification, the highest level of environmental and social responsibility a company can achieve. The scrubs follow a “circular” model of production that leaves no waste; when your uniform wears out (Kharey says that should take about two years of regular wear, which is twice as long as a standard, frequently worn set of scrubs) they can be returned to the company where they will be melted, turned into pellets, and re-woven into new fabric. The Nonie label abides as an occasional playground for Kharey when she has time and inclination to dip back into couture. But what fills her up is her ongoing disruption of the medical-uniform industry. Kharey has not only dramatically elevated the comfort, safety and sustainability of medical wear, but her contemporary, fashion-forward approach gives health-care professionals tacit permission to look and feel stylish. That’s a bold shift that could only have been imagined in a rare mind under extraordinary circumstances — an engineer, global fashion star, and entrepreneur with an urgent commitment to transparent social and environmental responsibility. Perhaps what makes Kharey most remarkable is that she innovates with people in mind. Her brother. Her children. And the ones who take care of all of us.
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