I s s u e n o .1 — P i o n e e r s
w w w. r e d w i n g h e r i t a g e . e u
A return to craft
The Early Days
Grown up in Red Wings
Berlin WorkshopS
Introduction 03
Pioneers
The Red Wing Post seeks to explore Red Wing’s rich history as well as celebrating its contemporary influences and advocates. That’s why we wanted to kick things off by honoring the pioneers; people who work with their hands and hearts to forge their own frontiers. This inaugural issue takes an in-depth look at the heritage of the brand, focusing on product, craftsmanship and a feature following the footsteps of founder Charles Beckman. We explored the craftsmanship culture of Berlin and in London we immersed ourselves in a world of charcoal. We caught up with Paul Octavious in Chicago and saw how he merges graphic design and photography to create stunning images. We also got introduced to three pioneering friends in Amsterdam who are making a sustainable difference in the food-industry. This Red Wing Post uncovers the stories of different kinds of people from all over the world who are all similarly driven to do what they love with a keen eye and a passion for detail. Red Wing Shoes inherited a similar mentality from Charles Beckman, the founding father of Red Wing Shoes Company. May his story and those of this new generation of movers and makers inspire you as they inspire us.
HISTORY 04
In the footsteps of
CHARLES BECKMAN text Tomas Rouw
When Charles Beckman finished the first pair of Red Wing shoes, he stepped back and took a long hard look at them. It was September 1, 1905 and Charles had come a long way. As a German immigrant, he had always strongly believed in the American dream. He had just managed to perfect and pro-
duce the image that had been stuck in his mind for years; a workingman’s boot that was not only sturdy, but also comfortable to wear. Charles decided to sell this new and improved boot for the humble price of one dollar and seventyfive cents. The Red Wing Shoes Company had become a fact.
HISTORY 05
Only two years later, the company produced over 100 pairs of shoes per day. Charles Beckman’s dream has since grown steadily into a company that delivers high quality boots to people all over the world. It was Beckman’s perseverance and determination that helped him thrive in an exciting but simultaneously rough and rugged new era. With the rise of industrial activities in and around the town of Red Wing, Beckman recognized a growing need in his community for durable, high quality work boots. As the owner of a shoe store he wanted to provide his customers with shoes that fit them perfectly. But his dependence on his suppliers meant he didn’t always have men’s shoes in the right sizes. So he started toying around with the idea of producing his own footwear. In ‘Heart and Sole’, the book that celebrates Red Wing Shoe Company’s 80-year anniversary, a resident recalls visiting Mr. Beckman’s shoe store. “I remember Mr. Beckman so well. We children used to just love him; we loved to go down and buy shoes, because he’d take all kinds of time to fit us right. We bought shoes every fall that we wore to school. When my father wanted to buy shoes, Mr. Beckman said, ‘Well, I don’t always have men’s shoes in the right size. There really should be somebody here to make shoes.’ So I think that started the idea.”
“ we loved to go down and buy shoes, bec ause he’d take all kinds of time to fit us right” Mr. Beckman’s fancy turned to fact in February 1905, when he and 14 other local business investors founded the Red Wing Shoe Company. The characteristic spirit of Beckman lives on in the company today. A ‘hands-on’ mentality and a dedication to always aim for the highest possible result are what have shaped the company since its inception. The conditions that gave rise to the Red Wing Shoe Company are the same that encouraged the development of manufacturing throughout the community. Red Wing Shoes Company developed alongside the emergence of the new frontier. Farming, ranching, logging, mining, blacksmithing, railroading and construction were the primary occupations of the era. Red Wing managed to capitalize on these industries by producing quality work shoes for hardworking people. The company became a huge success and Red Wing shoes expanded, soon becoming synonymous with highquality boots that found their way onto the feet of people from all walks of American life. A lot of things in the company have developed and improved over the years, but the basic philosophy of Charles Beckman remains the same. As the founding father of the company, Charles Beckman’s craftsmanship, determination and unfailing belief in his own vision remain a great inspiration for everyone working at Red Wing Shoes Company. His dedication to finding a better way of doing things and sticking to it is why shoemaking at Red Wing Shoe Company continues to follow relatively similar constructions as the old handmade traditions. This approach has resulted in the incomparable quality and character of the shoes. Mr. Beckman’s legacy still plays a determining role in the vision of the company and is the driving force behind what Red Wing Shoes Company does best: making great shoes.
HISTORY 06
The second local ad to appear in the Red Wing Daily Republican, highlighting the availability of Red Wing Shoes.
Anecdotes 07
Grown up in Red Wings text Michael Williams
My love of Red Wing began early one Saturday morning when I was thirteen years old. My father woke me up and drove me to the Red Wing store in my hometown of Wickliffe, Ohio, on the East Side of Cleveland to get my first pair of work boots. The excitement of the gift of work boots from my dad quickly faded when I realized that I was then being conscripted into weekends and summers of manual labor. What I learned about working for my dad was sort of surprising to me; I loved working outside and I loved manual labor. When the job was done, you are done. Each day held huge feelings of accomplishment. It was through this experience that my life long appreciation and connection to the Red Wing Shoe Company was forged. I bought these boots in 2005, the year of Red Wing’s centennial. They are a
special edition boot with the style number 1905, an homage to the year of the company’s founding and came with the 100 year lace badges. I have worn them religiously ever since and recently had them re-crafted in Minnesota to make them almost better than new. These boots are just like my first pair that my dad bought for me and every time I put them on I think about how in one Saturday morning my father taught me about quality, hard work, loyalty and so much more about life. In 2007, Michael Williams founded men’s style site A Continuous Lean, which looks at the world through the lens of craftsmanship, quality and provenance. www.acontinuouslean.com
REPORT 08
REPORT 09
A Return to Craft The London Log Company
text James Moss photography John Turner
“I was working with a woodsman when I was younger and I saw him cut his own finger off”. Mark explains whilst holding an instrument far more than capable of a similar occurrence. The London Log Company are a loose collective of individuals scattered through the city to the rolling countryside. Established in 2006 they’re an independent British company that provides wood and charcoal to the industries in the UK. They
make the largest range of single species charcoals in Europe. Their central residence is a small two-door workshop in South East London, filled with paper and hessian sacks of different types of wood and boxes full of charcoal. Apple wood, English Plum and Oak to name just a few, all ticketed and labeled from origin to its then concluding destination. Continued on page 10
REPORT 10
We were lucky enough to get invited to their yard in Hertfordshire with company owner Mark, a visual array of old machinery, tools, burners and of course wood. A workman’s playground and photographers paradise, here is where much of the charcoal is made and a huge portion of wood is stored. Magnificent chaotic hills of used wood and chippings, ‘jenga’ like stacks of oak and silver birch glisten, towering over us as we make our way round what used to be a functioning pig farm. Lewis, who manages production on the site is maneuvering charcoal from the retort in an old pick up and sealing bags ready for the road as we gaze in awe at his effortless workmanship. The retort is a double-barreled steel oxygen-less sealed flask where the volatile elements are driven off by heat, leaving a high grade fixed carbon charcoal. “Part science, part alchemy and a lot of craft.” To our left is a pile of unfinished cricket bats, all awaiting their cremated significant end, and nothing is wasted. As we equip Mark’s “Big Green Egg” (a small spherical BBQ oven) with some fresh oak charcoal and some local sausages for lunch I asked Mark more about his passion, his endeavors in charcoal and favorite wood types.
“Part science, part alchemy and a lot of craft” “There’s been a huge resurgence of using wood and charcoal smoking techniques, incredibly apparent over the last year. It was a niche product where as now it cycles as a current uniform. It’s a return to craft, purist details that are simple and honest”. “We aim to give customers as much variety as possible. Jamie Oliver’s’ ‘Barbecoa’ for instance opt for a real classic oak smoke where as ‘Ember Yard’ use the sweet chestnut and apple. It’s all about finding authentic flavor’s using our own original wood. Each individual smoke has a different note, much like single estate tea and coffee beans.” Specialized restaurants take up to around 80% of their business. But LLC has a wide variety of clients who burn wood at home. Canal boats, gypsy caravans, wood fire stoves. The growing move towards craft is both in restaurants and at home. Mark’s week is made up out of meetings and deliveries, sharing his time between the workshops, farms and being on the road and physical production. Liaising with chefs and delivering to restaurants in the West and East end of London. It’s a demanding job and Mark stresses the importance of being comfortable when spending long days on your feet. Being a loyal fan of Redwing he has two pairs to independently swap between during the day. He uses a Kevlar wrist guard and stainless steel chainmail gloves bought from a butcher that are now more than 30 years old. “I watch the change in season’s, it keeps my spirit and soul alive, and my head moving in the right direction. I’m a very physical person, the physicality of being close to the product ensures I know its been processed the right way, I can warrant my happiness sending it out to our clients.” He’s a truly unique individual that really strives off the satisfaction he provides to this industry and his customers. His knowledge is acute and direct it paints a picture so vivid you can’t help but feel completely immersed in his work. He has a scientific yet methodical, natural understanding and above all a real thirst for life. When you enjoy what you do, you really believe in it and its plain for others to see. I think this is why more and more people are becoming supportive of what LLC pride themselves on and other independent companies alike because they want to be part of something. Of course you have to pay for these luxuries but it truly isn’t about the money. It’s about the exchange of trade and the building of a community. Support your community and build relationships.
London Log Company www.thelondonlogcompany.blogspot.com
HISTORY 11
Made To Wear Everywhere In 1905, the first boots to roll off the Red Wing Shoes production line were destined for workers who would build the foundation of a nation. As Red Wing Shoe Company grew, word of quality spread and soon people from all over were lacing up their Red Wing boots. In
response to demand, Red Wing Shoes increased the number of boot designs and expanded their selection to boots for soldiers, gentlemen and boys. Red Wings had become, as stated in the 1919 catalogue, “Made To Wear Everywhere.”
COLLECTION 12
THE Beckman Collection
COLLECTION 13
The Beckman Collection is named after Charles Beckman, the company’s founder. Mr. Beckman owned a shoe store in Red Wing. In his advertising he promoted himself as Beckman, the Shoe Man. As a prosperous Main Street merchant, he saw first-hand the need for durable and comfortable boots. In 1905 when he couldn’t find boots to meet his needs, he started making his own under the name Red Wing Shoes. Navigating the muddy streets of Red Wing was part of his daily routine. He needed sturdy boots that could be polished to match his status as a successful merchant and shoe company owner.
Featherstone leather Featherstone leather is our most premium leather, used only in the Beckman Collection. By selecting the finest hides only, our tannery, located just down the road from the original Featherstone Township tannery site, produces leather that is beautiful and abrasion resistant.
REPORT 14
making a difference BRANDT & LEVIE
text Tomas Rouw photography Tim Collins
Three friends with a passion for good food shared a strong vision for what they wanted to change in the food industry and started Brandt & Levie Sausage Makers in 2011. Samuel, Jiri and Geert are three young entrepreneurs who are taking the Netherlands by storm with a range of
quality meat products that have been turning heads in the restaurants and delicacy stores that sell them. They are a pioneering gang of young foodie cowboys dedicated to shaking up conventional systems and making us think about what we eat.
REPORT 15
Walking through their workplace, Jiri tells us: “We have a background as cooks. We have been working in high-end kitchens in the Netherlands and are real food lovers. We used to organize evenings together, cooking, eating, and discussing what we saw happening around us in the food industry and what we wanted to change about that. Take Italian sausages for example: most of them are made from pigs bred in the Netherlands or Denmark. Those pigs are shipped to Italy and processed into sausages, which are then transported back to northern Europe to be sold. This is not only rather bizarre, but more importantly also very inefficient. And that’s only one example of something we thought could be done differently.”
“Creating a beautiful product is honest work” In 2009, the men travelled to Italy where they learned how to make traditional artisan sausages. “We’ve just always thought sausages are really cool and wanted to master the process. We then took what we’d learned about making sausages back to the Netherlands and continued making our own.” What started with experimenting after work time quickly grew to a production line that now delivers about 3000 sausages a week. To guarantee the final product meets the quality standards they demand, they have taken control of every aspect of the production process. “To be sure the pigs we use have enjoyed a good life, we collaborate closely with independent farmers. With them, the pigs can go outside, have enough space and are happy. Also, as a company, we try to produce as sustainably as possible. For example, we work together with several stores and restaurants that give us their leftover bread, milk and yoghurt, which we use to feed the pigs.” Jiri, Sam and Geert are all highly motivated guys and really see this as their calling. As Jiri puts it: “Creating a beautiful product is honest work.” The fact that the demand has outgrown their current production capacity tells us that their dedication has not gone unnoticed. “We started this company from scratch and we built it with hard and honest labor. It is great to see it growing and to see how people appreciate what we are doing. Soon we’ll be moving to a new location where we can increase our production, get creative again and diversify our assortment with new products such as dried ham and Balkenbrij, a Dutch traditional dish.” It seems to all boil down to the satisfaction they get out of doing this together as a team. “We enjoy being entrepreneurs and are all passionate about the products we make. This is really evident in our monthly creative session, called ‘Sausage-lab’. On these evenings we taste new products we’ve been working on and try out new ideas.” Everyone in the company, whether they work in the office or in the butchery, is part of the creative team and can come up with new recipes and flavors. The result is an original range of products, e.g. dried sausage with lavender or fresh sausage with lemon and thyme. It is catching on: “Brandt & Levie is still growing every day. This encourages us to carry on doing what we do best: making good, honest sausages!” www.brandtenlevie.nl
ANECDOTES 16
Tales from behind the counter Red Wing Shoe Store Frankfurt
text Kami Hashemi photography Christian Grau
“The last shoe on earth will be a Red Wing shoe.” Kami, the owner of Red Wing’s oldest store in Europe, strongly believes this to be true. Located in Frankfurt, his store is considered an institute for shoe fitting, advice and service. The longer a product lasts, the more soul it accumulates. The same goes for Kami’s store, where the colorful clientele leads to surprising encounters every day. From behind the counter, Kami shares some unique stories associated with the boots he sells. And as a real ambassador of the boots, some advice is included. Frankfurt 2 - Frankfurter
More and more people started to recognize each other as being from Frankfurt by the boots they were wearing. That is how style #8804 - former #204 – came to be known as ‘the Frankfurter’. The construction of this boot, a Super Sole Welt, is patented by the Red Wing Shoe Company. The Welt has a special design, which makes it long lasting and lightweight. It is the lightest durable welted boot that I know and probably the reason why it became Frankfurt’s most favorite boot. The insole, called Poron, is a long lasting shock-absorbing and anti-bacterial insole that is one of a kind! I saw a 30-year-old pair of boots with that insole still in perfect shape.
In the 1970’s, style #8804 was highly popular in Frankfurt, while this bright red Moc Toe boot wasn’t as appealing to the consumers in the USA. As a result, Red Wing Shoe Store Frankfurt was the only one offering this boot at that time.
Style #1178
One day a German guy from Frankfurt walked on the streets, far away from home, in New York City. At the end of the street he sees a man walking towards him and his eyes were drawn to his feet, where he spots a pair of red 8804’s. He looks up at his face to see the other guy staring at his boots. They were wearing the same style. He stops him and asks in German; “Hey, bist du aus Frankfurt?” (Are you from Frankfurt?). The guy replies: “Ja, klar!” (Yes obviously!).
Eight years ago two English tourists entered my shop. “Hey what’s up with the old boots in the window?” one of them asked me. I told them they were a pair of 15-year old #1178 Pecos boots that were a gift from one of our customers. We saved them for our vintage collection. “Can I buy them?” he asked. I showed him a new pair on the shelf and said, “You can buy those.” “Ok,” he replied, “but how long does it take
Where to wear a pair of Frankfurters? It’s more about when to take them off. Beach, maybe. Bathroom, probably. Bed, possibly.
for the new ones to look like these?” I said, “Probably about seven years, depending on what you do with them.” “Oh no,” he said, “I don’t have seven years, I need them now!” “Ok,” I said and gave back his credit card. “I can’t sell you boots that we received for free from another customer, so if you really want them, you can just take them.” He looked at me in disbelief, then gave me a massive hug and happily left with his new old boots. Years later there was an article in the German Musikexpress about singers and their outfits on stage. One of the interviewed artists told a nice story. “We were in Frankfurt and passed by a Red Wing Shoe Store. I saw some old worn-out Red Wing boots in the window and went into the store right away. It turned out the boots were part of a little museum they had there and were not for sale. I really wanted them because they looked so cool. Then the owner just gave me the shoes for free! Isn’t that fantastic?” It turned out that the guy was Liam Howlett, member of The Prodigy. Wearing Pecos is a lifestyle. That girl or guy is different than you and me. No Laces is a statement. That’s how they go through life. They like it easy. There is no need to lace the boot perfectly every morning like other people do. Just step in and start your day.
HISTORY 17
THE FIRST RED WING SHOES These 14-inch buckle boots were among the first made by Red Wing Shoes. Hyram Howe, Red Wing’s head of finance, took them home to his son, who wore them for several years. He stashed them away
in the attic, where they stayed for decades until they were discovered by accident. The pair was donated to the Red Wing Shoe Company archives.
MAD
RED WIN MN,
DE IN
WING USA
Craftsmanship 20
THE WOODEN DRUM A time-tested practice photography MARCO SCOZZARO, JESSE LENZ
Sturdy, high-quality leather is essential to the process of building a durable Red Wing boot. Red Wing Shoes’ S.B. Foot Tannery uses time-tested wooden drums for the tanning process. Tanning agents, dye and oil are fed into the drum and rotated with the leather hides for up to 12 hours. The time it takes to tan a hide depends on the thickness of the leather and the desired penetration of the
dye. Since absorption of dye may differ from area to area, slight variations in color are usually exhibited throughout the hide, much like wood color varies when it is stained. These distinctive markings and nuances in texture and color are considered natural beauty marks and are a testament to the authenticity of Red Wing Shoes leather.Â
Craftsmanship 21
TYLER
‘I got my first Red Wings from my grandfather. He worked with the Red Wing Shoe Company, and when he considered me old enough to go fishing and hunting, he brought home a pair’ photography Tim Adler
Report 22
WORKSHOPS BERLIN text Wytse Hylkema photography Tim Adler
Despite decennia of standardisation and automation, craftsmanship is still widely alive in Berlin. Partially ignited by a re-born desire to work with their hands, but mostly because these craftsmen and –women would never consider doing otherwise. Working with their hands is at their hearts. Who are these people? We visited some of them in their workshops to discover the drive of the people whose aim is not scale, but skill. And we tried to identify how the city of Berlin influences the way they work.
Christian GrĂśschel
Communication Designer
PETER HANSEN
Painter and Set Designer
MONA GOTTSCHLING Leather artisan
Report 23
Christian Gröschel
Communication Designer Three kilometers from Alexanderplatz, in the vibrant heart of former EastBerlin, lies the Heynhöfe. A former factory for chair tubes where Inco Media is settled since 2004 - Christian’s communication design company for furniture and interiors. His work is led by one idea: to give used materials a new future. Could you tell us a bit about how you grew into your work? I was taught the work of a joiner for three years, in a small factory. After completing that, I started to study communication design. The knowledge I gathered in both studies combined prepared me to create realistic designs. When I finished my studies, I started my company. We design and build custom furniture and full interiors. Our specialization is creative combinations of old and new materials. What’s the joy of working with your hands? During the first two years in joineryschool, automated tools were not allowed. Having your hands as foremost tools leads to knowing how wood breaks and where steel bends. Those two years have proven to be essential to my work. An idea is nothing when not brought to life. I like to explore a concept and see how it improves by testing and playing with the material’s properties. I take the time to design great looking products and make sure they last for generations. What are the essential elements for a good workshop? That would be qualified people, a piece of paper and a pen. By drawing up ideas, communication starts flowing. We can all understand each other with a pen and a sheet of paper. How does Berlin influence your work? I can look beyond my own field of work for inspiration. Berlin is the big fashion city, the big arts city. There are lots of museums, galleries and music performances. The fast pulse of Berlin… you must take this beat. Everything is here. But sometimes Berlin makes me feel like a foreigner. Being one of the scarce born and bred Berliners, I see elements of great nostalgic value disappear rapidly. This part of the city – like many others changes in the blink of an eye. Mr. Heyn’s factory used to be the only building in this area – now filled with housing – and fulfilled a central role in its development. We created a small exhibition area where the story of the factory and the area is told, as I like to preserve some of that history. www.inco-media.de
“Having your hands as foremost tools leads to knowing how wood breaks and how steel bends”
Report 24
PETER HANSEN
Painter and Set Designer “I appreciate the diversit y within the Berlin societ y. They all bring something special to the cit y”
In a large two-floor studio in North Berlin and its sun rich garden, is where Peter Hansen has his working space. Born in the Mid-West of the United States, he moved to Berlin 20 years ago and continues to be a painter. Today, he splits his time between set-design and painting. How did you end up in this profession? I had an interest in interiors at a very early age. While working for a master house painter back in college I discovered an interest for more painting. My first big experience in set design was to paint for the first opera to be staged at the local Opera House. It was very exciting to see two Metropolitan Opera singers performing on the set where I had been the primary stage painter. Over ten years ago, I was asked to create a set for a photographer and since design and build sets for photo-productions, videos and permanent interiors. Meanwhile, I continue to work on my paintings. What is for you the joy of working with your hands? Physical proximity to the material is very important to me. In painting, I like to just start somewhere and then discover what I can do with it along the way. It’s an adventure to see where an idea ends up when facing the material. My job with the house painter gave me initial experience to see how I can push the material and it’s innate properties. Tell us about your workshop The atmosphere of the old factory has inspired my work and distracted it too! It’s such a vibrant area with lots of music and people making noise, doing their thing. It encourages me to be spontaneous and sometimes make my own noise as well. I have a woodshop and a large area with big windows to work on sets and painting. It is a luxury to have space to be able to step back from the work and see it from a distance. Having other individuals around with their own dreams is even more inspiring than the space itself. How does the city Berlin influence your work? I appreciate the diversity within the Berlin society. The tourists, the people that moved here and the people that are born here, they all bring something special to the city. Together they make a special blend of cultures with diverse points of view. I always keep my eyes open and try to learn from all those great people and collaborate where I can and want to. Everyone has different qualities. Berlin taught me to embrace that. www.peterhansensets.com
Report 25
MONA Gottschling Leather artisan
We find Mona working between piles of leather positioned in a comfy space in West-Berlin, which feels more like a living room than a workshop. She sits at a table next to a wall filled with hand-tools. Mona crafts leather accessories that find their way to customers all over the globe. How did Leevenstein first begin? The desire to create was passed on from my parents. After first pursuing photography, I realized I wanted to engage in work that has that touch and feel to it. Working with leather got my interest, so I applied at a custom shoemaker. That proved to be a very fine and delicate craft because building a shoe with your hands demands extreme accuracy. The shoemaker taught me all I needed to know about leather types and how to work with them. Personally I love to work with the thicker leathers. Thick leathers age with such grace, and now this is what I mainly focus my work in. I started experimenting by making camera-shells for friends but soon I received requests for wallets and belts, and started producing those instead. And that’s how Leevenstein was born. What’s the joy of working with your hands? Starting with an idea, and in the end of the day holding that idea in your hands. It’s rewarding each and every day. What are the essentials for a good workshop? It should be a pleasant and warm environment. I work with leathers, a warm material. I need my workshop to reflect that in order to be inspired. It’s a visual thing for me. How does the city of Berlin influence your work? This city is filled with people who have their own businesses. It is part of the Berlin spirit, to try out ideas and then make it happen. When I had the idea for this business my friends were full of encouragement. That mindset brought me to start one of my own. www.leevenstein.com
“I work with leathers, a warm material. I need my workshop to reflect that, in order to be inspired”
INSTAGRAM 26
#MYRED
INSTAGRAM 27
DWINGS
T he Harv e s t er STYLE NOS. 2943 & 2944
The Harvester, style no.258, was one of Red Wing’s most successful products in the 1930’s. Popular in both the harvest field and mining sections of the country, the Harvester helped grow the fundamentals of the United States. The 8-inch lace-up boot comes with traditional speed hooks and is available in Amber Harness and Black Harness.
Mu nic h Berl in London Fr ank furt Amster dam Hamburg
INTERVIEW 29
PAUL OCTAVIOUS no rules apply
Paul Octavious, Puffin Clouds
photography Paul Octavious
Paul Octavious is a Chicago-based photographer and designer. He is a true storyteller with a unique point of view and a talent for using ordinary objects to create something new and interesting. Besides his autonomous art, he has worked with Nike, Wired, Print, The Wall Street Journal, Mercedes, Hermes, and the New York Times, among others. We managed to track him down and ask him a few questions about his work. How did your work as an artist start? I started my career as a graphic designer. In design class, most students were using the same stock images for their projects. I wanted my work to be unique so I started shooting my own imagery. I bought a camera and started experimenting and having a good time. Your style is quite specific. Can you tell us a little more about your processes and methods? There is an idea to go with each image. It’s easy to take photos of a pretty melon that’s already there. I’d rather create that pretty melon.
Also, color plays a big role in things that I shoot. For me, color provokes emotion. It is exciting to play with a whole range of color and it gives me a style of my own. I like to search for harmony between subject and color. A good example is the series “I Am Here” that I developed last year. I carried a red flag around on road trips, photographing these huge landscapes with tiny people in them. Like a railroad set! But I didn’t want the person in the image to get lost within the picture, so I gave them a red flag. I had a teacher in design school who said: ‘If you can’t make it big, make it red”. So in a way you’re a graphic designer, not working with a computer but with a camera? Yeah, totally! I mainly focus on photography now, but my work is very conceptual and that stems from my background as a graphic designer. In your work, we see a lot of pictures taken outdoors and you’re on the move a lot. What are your favorite places and where do you find inspiration? I enjoy being outdoors and
enjoy the adventure of discovering new places. Traveling is part of my job, which is great. For one of my first adventures as a photographer, I went on a road trip. We started going up Highway 1 from San Francisco to Portland. I didn’t know where we should shoot, so we just went with what we came across. But I also find a lot of inspiration here in Chicago. Four blocks from my house there is a big hill and I have been documenting this hill for six years now, throughout the seasons, for the project “Same Hill, Different Day”. When there’s no site to visit, I make something in my studio. The objects around me inspire me. A cool clock or a vintage book later becomes the subject of a project. Objects play a central role in a lot of your work. I just randomly collect items and all of those just sit in my house. Funny objects like a bright yellow time bomb, which used to be part of a game back in the 1960’s. It’s a silly but fun object to look at. I don’t know why, but I just have all these relics around.
INTERVIEW 30
Paul Octavious, Puffin Clouds
Another series I have been working on is called “Grandpa’s records”. I have collected a lot of old records and I have come up with a very cool and dynamic idea on how to capture them. The playing field for photographers has changed radically with the introduction of apps such as Instagram. How do you deal with that? I think its great! It keeps me sharp and helps me develop. Whether it’s a new phone or a new app, I try to apply it in my work. I even have projects exclusively for Instagram. Sometimes I get hired just to do shots for Instagram. The playing field is constantly changing. It’s the Wild West, no rules apply and anything’s possible. No rules? Has that opened up new opportunities, being quite cutting edge? Well, I didn’t go to photography school, so for me there have never been rules to work by, and I like it that way. I just try things and if it works, it works. If it doesn’t, it doesn’t. I really like my independence. It gives me the freedom to experiment. There’s always the mix of commercial assignments done under supervision and my personal projects in which I create my own ideas. Sometimes my personal projects inspire clients and lead to more paid work. So it’s a really nice balance for me. On Instagram we sometimes see Red Wing boots as an object in your images. Could you tell us a bit about that? I like Red Wings,
they’re extremely graphic. I remember first seeing them in the airport and I actually stopped the guy to ask him what kind of shoes he was wearing. I like to wear my Red Wing boots so they end up being included. I take a lot of shots of the ground. There are many interesting textures and objects to see when you look down. I’ve found some great images by just looking down.
“I didn’t go to photography school so for me there have never been rules to work by, and I like it that way” With half a million people following you on Instagram you share your work spontaneously. I love sharing my work. Long before I was on Instagram, I was on Flickr. I started sharing my work the day I bought my first camera, in 2005. My work has always been available online. All is there; from my first picture to the
last one I posted just yesterday. The feedback I get from it has always advanced my work. How has it advanced your work? In design class I hated showing my work. I didn’t want people to talk about it, whether good or bad. In photography I radically changed that and asked for feedback all the time. I had nothing to lose. Since I was not trained as a photographer, I was only sharing my experiments and started to refine my style based on the feedback I got. Eventually, blogs started to pick up my work and it spread on the Internet. My photographs became a marketing campaign I never initiated, and I was rewarded for sharing my experiments. It was a fantastic part of my career. What are your plans for the nearby future? Anything on your ‘bucket list’? I definitely want to go to Japan! I visited a Japanese grocery store two days ago and went crazy. Japanese culture is very graphic: the characters in the alphabet, the cartoon characters on merchandise and the colors they use. It all has cool style. Other than that, I want to go back and dive into my old projects. Re-imagine them and maybe fuse some old ideas and see what comes from that. My projects are an ongoing exploration of ideas. They’ll never be done. I have projects I didn’t work on for three years but I will go back to them at some point. It is always interesting to see how your eye changes. www.pauloctavious.com
INTERVIEW 31
Book review 32
DENIM STYLE
text Menno van Meurs photography Horst Friedrichs
Book review 33
The patience of all of us denim heads has been severely tested these past couple of years. After books like “From Cowboys to Catwalks” by Graham Marsh and Paul Trynka and Michael Harris’s “Jeans of the Old West”, it’s been far too quiet in denim literature. Although we received inquiries from denim aficionados on pretty much a daily basis, the next (affordable) denim bible just didn’t present itself. So what to do? We reverted to classics that have been out there for a while. But even reprints run out and all denim heads seem to have gotten their hands on even the oldest publications like the Levi Strauss History from the early ‘90s. It is clear that we are in need of some proper new denim collectibles. Just before I gave up on the idea that anyone would contribute to my bookshelf dedicated to denim literature, I came across the most recent project by a German photographer and expert in documentary photography called Horst Friedrichs. In 1997, Horst moved to London to start a new adventure in the UK’s Mod scene, which resulted in a book called 21st Century Mods, in 2009. “I was always profoundly inspired by British subcultures and by Mods and Rockers in particular. This is why my journey started with my first two books about Mods and Rockers. Then I did Cycle Style, a book documenting London’s good-looking cyclists. Following the great success of ‘Or Glory – 21st Century Rockers’ and ‘Cycle Style’ I concentrated on leather motorcycle jackets in my most important book ‘Pride and Glory’. After photographing motorcycles and leather jackets, the denim project came naturally.” Horst started working on ‘Denim Style’ in 2013. The project somehow intimidated him at first. Denim in the UK and more specifically in London was unknown territory for him. But after a few months immersing himself, Horst met Kelly and Scott from Dawson Denim who welcomed him into their denim world. Naturally the first photographs he took for his youngest project were of this lovely couple in their inspiring studio in Brighton. After that, it was as if the gates to denim heaven opened up for him. He was able to reach out to London’s denim community, portraying some of the city’s most fanatical ‘blue heads’. Along the way Horst further developed his own love for denim too. Although he really loves wearing his Canadian Tuxedo (double denim - ed.) he claims there is no such thing as being close to real denim people. He listened to their stories and captured them on camera with their blue treasures to ultimately reveal them to the world. It was then when the real magic happened for Horst. Or, as he puts it: “You photograph them and they are close to you forever. It’s amazing”. Denim Style provides an unparalleled insight into the stylish and eccentric denim community of London. After reading through Horst’s book I immediately felt as if this was the beginning of something. A first episode. As denim keeps evolving and the fabric finds its way into each and every layer of society - “Who doesn’t own a pair?” - a second publication can only be a matter of time. Horst managed to capture such a unique niche in the denim world it left me wondering why he had not chosen to capture more women, or why all the people seemed to look like they were somehow related to each other. It wasn’t until Horst explained his view on Denim Style that I truly understood why this book became what I was looking at: “Denim Style is about people who are independent, timelessly cool and authentic. The denim stylebook takes us on a journey, covering the most stylish looks of the denim culture in London, meshing together stylists from different cultures and backgrounds to create a vibrant indigo mosaic.” I keep my fingers crossed that Horst will let the experience from his London adventures inspire him to capture another part of denim society. Maybe one day he will cross the North Sea to provide the world a glimpse of Amsterdam’s finest denim heads. What I do know is that this book deserves sequels because the beauty of denim is hidden in its diversity. “Each pair of jeans is different, depending on the person wearing it. The way it fades depends on the person’s job and lifestyle. The jeans speak about your life and the way you see things but most of the things denim heads have in common is that their passion for quality and timelessness shows through in denim.” To be continued.
Horst Friedrichs ‘Denim Style’ www.horstfriedrichs.com
Locator 34
Store information
visit us on www.redwingheritage.eu or visit your local Red Wing Shoe Store
AMSTERDAM
BERLIN
Frankfurt
Reestraat 15 HS Amsterdam, The Netherlands +31(0)20 626 60 02 www.redwingamsterdam.com
Münzstraße 8, Berlin, Germany +49 (0)30 28493703 www.redwingberlin.com
Kornmarkt 6 Frankfurt am Main, Germany +49 (0)69 287773 www.redwings.de
HAMBURG
London
MUnich
Poststraße 41 Hamburg, Germany +49 (0)40 35716761 www.redwinghamburg.com
17 Newburgh St London, United Kingdom +44 (0)20 7287 5007 www.redwinglondon.com
Fraunhoferstraße 8 Münich, Germany +49 (0)89 242 10 310 www.redwingmunich.com
colophon Concept Red Wing Shoe Stores Creative direction & editor Wytse Hylkema Co-editor TOMAS ROUW
Design Pot & van der Velden graphic designers Press ECO DRUKKERS
Photography Tim Adler, Tim Collins, Christian Grau, Jesse Lenz, Yorick Meijdam, MARCO SCOZZARO, John Turner
Writers James Moss Menno van Meurs Kami Hashemi Tomas Rouw Wytse Hylkema
Copyright © 2014 Red Wing POST is a publication of Red Wing SHOE COMPANY www.redwingheritage.EU
T he Blac k s m i t h STYLE NOS. 2958 & 2959
This style can truly be considered the classic American work shoe. In the early 1900s, when Red Wing Shoe Company first began to service rural America, this style of shoe became vastly popular across the country. Versatile and reliable, it was used in farm fields and blacksmith workshops during the day before being cleaned and shined up for a night out on the town. It was the all-purpose shoe for many years in many industries. Today, the Blacksmith is built using premium Red Wing leathers and a durable Nitrile Cork sole. The extra height of this six inch style keeps out snow in the winter and dirt in the summer, while the classic construction keeps feet comfortable even after long hours of work.
Mu nic h Berl in London Fr ank furt Amster dam Hamburg