The RJ Insider's Guide to World Jewish Travel - Spring 2013

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How to make friends with Reform Jews in 43 countries * Where to go, what to see, how to connect.

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RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE TOWORLD JEWISH TRAVEL

Defying Extinction

By Paul Liptz

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ravel abroad and you’ll witness, as I have, the wonders of Jewish rebirth and resilience in places where Judaism was once on the edge of extinction—and now is on the ascent!

When I visited Poland in 1990 after the fall of the Communist regime, a handful of elderly Jews were struggling to survive in one functioning Warsaw synagogue. Today Poland’s Jewish community numbers approximately 30,000—including enthusiastic participants of the Progressive communities in Warsaw, Krakow, and Paul Liptz, a social historian, is director of Education at the WUPJ’s Anita Saltz International Education Center, Jerusalem.

Welcome to the st 1 RJ Insider’s Guide to World Jewish Travel

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n partnership with the World Union for Progressive Judaism, we are pleased to offer you this inaugural guide, which reveals fascinating differences and similarities in Reform communities throughout the globe and gives you the inside track on connecting up with your Jewish family worldwide.

Note: Our Summer 2013 edition will feature the 3rd RJ Insider’s Guide to Israel Travel in collaboration with the Israel Ministry of Tourism and the Association of Reform Zionists of America.

Happy travels.

–The Editors

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The resurgence of Jewish life in Germany has been miraculous.

In May 1945, the German Jewish community was totally devastated. Almost half the population had emigrated before the

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smaller centers. In 2010, 600 people joined me in grappling with Jewish texts, history, and contemporary life at a Limmud Jewish study weekend in Warsaw.

Every summer a nine-day Jewish culture festival in Krakow attracts hundreds of people worldwide. Warsaw’s popular Yiddish theater features non-Jewish actors. And the Museum of the History of Polish Jews—supported by the Warsaw municipality and the Polish government—will open in April 2013.

In the early 1990s, when only one Progressive congregation existed in the entire Soviet Union and Russian-speaking Jews began emigrating West en masse, I was convinced: This is the end of Eastern European Jewry.

I was wrong. Today, there are hundreds of congregations throughout the FSU. In our Movement, six energetic Progressive rabbis in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Minsk, Kiev, and Simferopol (Crimea), together with a few dozen graduates of the Movement’s Machon para-rabbinic program as well as Machon-trained community workers and leaders, serve 40 communities nationwide. Moreover, each year some 1,000 Russian Jews attend our adult, family, and youth camps, learning about Judaism for the first time in their lives.

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Second World War, and most of those who remained were killed. Over the decades, immigrants began arriving, mainly from other parts of Europe and Israel, and a new Jewish community slowly emerged.

Today, some 130,000 Jews live in Germany, a nation with the fastest Jewish growth rate in the world. The German government provides benefits specifically to Jewish immigrants and has helped fund the building of the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Memorial in Berlin.

With some 24 congregations, the Progressive Movement is growing steadily, bolstered by the German government, which recognizes and provides it with financial assistance. A major milestone was reached in 2006, when the Progressive Movement’s Abraham Geiger College of Judaism, which trains rabbinic and cantorial students to serve in Germany and neighboring countries, ordained its inaugural three rabbis—the first ordainees in the nation since the Second World War. ♦♦♦ Every time I travel abroad, my emotional involvement and commitment to our brethren in these and other emerging communities increases. I am convinced it will for you, too.

To be part of the unfolding, mirac­ulous journey of the Jewish people, read on….

In Acknowledgement

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he Reform Judaism magazine editors express their gratitude to the following donors, whose generous contributions made this “RJ Insider’s Guide to World Jewish Travel” possible: Jean and Jay Abarbanel, Steve and Ina Bauman, Stephen K. Breslauer, James and Linda Cherney, Sue and James Klau, The Golomb Family, Anne Molloy and Henry Posner III, Rosalyn G. Rosenthal, Rabbi Barton A. and Jane Shallat, Jerry Tanenbaum, and Dolores K. Wilkenfeld.

To explore how you might contribute to a future Insider’s Guide, please contact the editors—Aron Hirt-Manheimer, editor, or Joy Weinberg, managing editor—at rjmagazine@urj.org.

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RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

ST PETERSBURG: Treated Like a Queen

By Gail Glezerman Sherman

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ravel is my passion. I find gressive (Reform) synagogue in St. nothing more exhilarating Petersburg, Russia. than visiting new places…

Before the trip, I learned of and but not for the reasons you reached out to Rabbi Gary Brettonmay expect. Yes, I enjoy Granatoor, vice president for philanvisiting historical sites, seeing magnifithropy at the World Union for Progrescent art and architecture, and sampling sive Judaism. He excitedly explained delicious indigenous food. But my real that St. Petersburg was one of only four joy comes from cities in all meeting people, of Russia— especially when the others they are Jewish. being MosI love to learn cow, Minsk what it’s like and Kiev— to live as a that had a Jew in another Progressive country…what synagogue. is similar to the Since our U.S. and what time in St. is different.

Petersburg Usually the included a similarities Friday night, RABBI HELENA RUBENSTEIN (R.) AND I AT THE fascinate he suggested ENTRANCE TO SHA’AREI SHALOM’S SANCTUARY. me most. we attend I’ve conversed with party-goers at a Shabbat services and put me in touch Sephardic bar mitzvah—on a Thursday with Rabbi Helena Rubenstein— evening—in Nice, France (except for “who,” he said, “along with her congrethe language, the party was like all the gation, will treat you like a queen!” ones I’ve attended in America); learned Rabbi Rubenstein wrote, in good about French Jewish Pesach traditions English, that she’d be delighted to have while buying Passover pastries at a us. She provided me with the address and kosher bakery in Paris; and conversed directions—and her cell phone number. with a Jewish glass blower in Venice ♦♦♦ about a Murano glass kiddush cup that seemed like a major extravagance—but After our first day of exploring the city, which I’ve regretted not buying ever I was still feeling jet lagged from the since. And, this past summer, my hus11-hour time difference and regretting my band Jay and I experienced the most commitment to attend services. Plus it was personal Jewish encounter of all— cold and rainy; a bowl of hot borscht and attending Shabbat services as the guests an early evening sounded very appealing. of honor at Sha’arei Shalom, the ProBut the rabbi was expecting us, so we hailed a taxi to what turned out to be Gail Glezerman Sherman is a member of a Soviet-era office building, across from Temple Beth Torah, Ventura, California. “the Cruiser Aurora” (which, we later reform judaism

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learned, was the ship that fired the shot that started the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution, and is now a museum). The taxi driver pointed and sped away. Without any signage, we had no idea what we were looking for. A man who seemed to be a security guard looked at the address—in Russian—and led us to a dismal yard surrounded by a chain link fence. This could not be right.

Retracing our steps back to “the Cruiser Aurora,” I called the temple, only to reach a Russian-speaking woman who didn’t understand me and hung up. Now it was raining hard, the wind upending our umbrella. Royalty, hmmm. I fumbled for the rabbi’s cell phone number, and to my relief she answered. Her secretary would soon meet us outside the building.

At last, we saw someone gesturing broadly, “Come in, come in.” We had arrived at Sha’arei Shalom.

Rabbi Rubenstein, an elegant woman in her mid-50s, greeted us warmly. She immediately offered us tea and sweets, and then (as she was in the midst of a counseling session) put us in the hands of one of her English-speaking members: Alla, a beautiful young woman with an adorable two-year-old daughter.

Alla showed us around the first floor facilities: sanctuary—a very modern space reminiscent of American synagogues—offices, and a small social hall (religious school classrooms occupy the upstairs space). She apologized in advance for the small turnout expected at services—about 20 of 100 members— because of the rain and many members away on summer vacations.

When Rabbi Rubenstein rejoined us, she told us her life story—the twists and turns of how a young Jew who grew up without an understanding of Judaism in

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Greetings from The State Hermitage Museum

1960s and 70s Moscow—a time when the Soviets didn’t permit religious practice— became a Progressive rabbi. Today she is one of only six native Russian-speaking Progressive rabbis serving in the FSU. ♦♦♦ As predicted, the service attracted about 20 people—mostly young, with children, but also a few seniors. We were given a siddur in English and Hebrew, and the rabbi made sure we sat near Alla for the purpose of translation. Now I understood what Rabbi Bretton-Granatoor meant about being treated like royalty.

First, I was asked to come up to the bimah and light the Shabbat candles. I began singing what I assumed was the universal melody for the candle-lighting blessing—the one melody I’d heard in every synagogue I’d ever attended—but when the rabbi and congregation joined in, it was a completely different minor-keyed tune! It seemed best to mouth the brachah silently. And when it was time for Aleinu, Rabbi Rubenstein asked Jay and me to come to the bimah to open the ark.

Notably, the order of the service was very familiar—much like what we do at Temple Beth Torah in Ventura, California. The prayers were the same. When I heard familiar melodies, like L’cha Dodi, I joined right in. The Sh’ma was chanted with a different melody, which surprised me too—of all our prayers, didn’t this one have a universal tune?

During the service, to keep us feeling included, the rabbi frequently gave explanations and page numbers in English.

And, during the sermon—which of course was in Russian—the rabbi had arranged for another congregant, a young woman named Katya who teaches English for a living, to sit next to me and translate. It was a little like the childhood game of “telephone.” Whispering into my ear so softly as to not disturb others, and in heavily accented English, Katya would say something that I could hardly comprehend, and I would whisper something to Jay that made even less sense.

Despite my lack of comprehension, I felt greatly appreciative of the special attention. And it struck me: The experience we were having right now in St. Petersburg was being repeated at Progressive/ Reform synagogues all over the world.

You’re Never Alone When You Say You’re a Jew

by Gary Bretton-Granatoor

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n 43 countries around the world, there are people like you and me who strive to create warm, welcoming, egalitarian, pluralistic Jewish communities.

Rabbi Larry Milder’s popular NFTY song, “Wherever You Go,” beautifully expresses this truth:

if visiting unannounced.

The best way to connect is to have the World Union for Progressive Judaism (WUPJ), the institution that serves, nurtures, and supports 1,700+ Reform/ Progressive/ Liberal Jewish congregations worldwide, make the connection for you.

RABBI JOEL OSERAN OF THE WORLD UNION (L.) AND MEMBERS OF THE RODEF SHALOM JEWISH Wherever you Several weeks RELIGIOUS UNION BUILD A SUKKAH IN MUMBAI. go, there’s in advance of always someone Jewish your vacation, go to the World Union You’re never alone when you say for Progressive Judaism website, you’re a Jew wupj.org. On the main page, use the So when you’re not home and dialogue box to search for WUPJ conyou’re somewhere kind of newish gregations by country and then city.

The odds are don’t look far, Once you verify the presence of a ’cause they’re Jewish too…. congregation in the area you plan to visit, email or call me, Rabbi Gary In North America we are called Bretton-Granatoor (gary@wupj.org or Reform. In other parts of the world, 212–452–6531), at the WUPJ’s New we are known as Progressive or LibYork office. Provide your travel dates, eral (in most of Europe, if you ask for where you plan to stay, when you a Reform congregation, you’ll be would like to visit the congregation, directed to a Protestant church). But the number of people in your party, we are all one family. and a way to contact you once you are How do you find your larger Prothere (to make sure you are advised of gressive/Reform/Liberal family when any last minute changes in the synatravelling outside of North America? gogue’s plans). If given sufficient The process is different than what you time, we can arrange a personal visit. find in North America, where synaConnecting with your “cousins” is gogues generally have an “open-door” a great way to experience a country policy. Elsewhere, there is a pervasive and a Jewish community. You’ll get security consciousness. Synagogues insight into the challenges and the trido not publish their street addresses, umphs of living as a Jew in that return phone calls or emails, or openly place—and, most of all, you will see declare their presence. A random that we are all a part of one extended visitor, even one claiming affiliation family. “Wherever you go, there’s with a Reform synagogue in the U.S. always someone Jewish. You’re never or Canada, is likely to be turned away alone when you say you’re a Jew.” Rabbi Gary Bretton-Granatoor is the Vice President—Philanthropy at the World Union for Progressive Judaism.

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What a spiritravel outside tual uplift, to of Russia— be connected evidently, to a global obtaining a community of visa to travel fellow Jews. abroad is As with exceedingly any Jewish difficult gathering, for citizens AN EMBROIDERED BANNER OF WELCOME IN THE LOBBY. food has to be who hold part. Indeed, for a small synagogue, the just a Russian passport. oneg Shabbat at Sha’arei Shalom was Being Jewish in Russia is still a diffivery elaborate. The rabbi’s secretary is cult choice, and being a Progressive Jew an incredible baker, and challah is her even more so. Although the fall of the specialty. It was sweet, cake-like, filled Soviet Union freed its citizens to practice with either raisins or currants—and surely religion, the vast majority are Russian the most delicious I’ve ever eaten. And, Orthodox. Among Jews, most are Orthoto our delight, she had made two extra dox, and Chabad has a sizeable presence. loaves for us to take back to our hotel!

Katya, Anastasia, and Vladimir have choWe chatted more with Katya and sen the Progressive Movement for the another young married couple, Anastasia same reasons I appreciate being a Reform and Vladimir. All three of them, it turns Jew—individual religious autonomy and out, are Jews by choice, and all believe gender equality. they have some Jewish ancestry. None But in the U.S. it’s easy for me to be a are from Russia—Katya hails from Lat- Reform Jew—I live two miles from my via and Anastasia and Vladimir from congregation, and I have the legal right to Lithuania. All are trying to obtain passtake time off from work to celebrate the ports from their ancestral countries to High Holy Days. In Russia, because of the

high cost of city living, these three young people reside in outlying areas and travel long distances to attend services every Friday night. And if they took time off from work to attend services they would risk losing their jobs, because religious practice is not a protected right in Russia. ♦♦♦ It was time to leave, and Vladimir kindly offered to drive us back to the hotel. We exchanged full names with congregants so we could become Facebook friends and keep in touch.

Even better, Katya asked if we had any free time when she could take us around St. Petersburg—of course!

That Monday, Katya met us at our hotel. We strolled several miles to the park behind the Yusopov Palace, where Grigory Rasputin, who had spell-bound Empress Alexandra, was murdered by his enemies. The weather had turned warm and sunny—unusual in St. Petersburg, which gets about 50 sunny days a year—and the park was filled with people. Katya told us she was in the process of converting to Judaism, and feels con-

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Since returning home, I have heard from both Katya and Anastasia on Facebook, and from Sha’arei Shalom by email, further cementing our bond with new friends in St. Petersburg. I’m thrilled to have made the connection.

My experience in St. Petersburg deepened my passion for travel and proved yet again that the wonder of going places is not about sites or restaurants or souvenirs—it’s about people. It was thrilling to participate in Shabbat services in St. Petersburg—where, just 20 years ago, residents couldn’t acknowledge their Judaism. I am now set on seeking out Progressive Judaism synagogues in other parts of the world. Meeting, praying, and socializing with Jews who share my religious perspectives and passions transforms a trip from a memorable vacation to an enduring experience of Jewish connectedness and spiritual renewal.

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flicted about making aliyah. She doesn’t want to move to Israel because “it’s too hot and too Eastern,” but she thinks that, as a Jew, she should want to live there.

spring 2013

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

VIENNA: Searching for Roots, Finding My Mission

By Cindy R. Kandel

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believe that we are each born with to his last-known Vienna residence. Also, a higher purpose in life. Some knowing that many graves in the older discover their calling early; others sections of the Central Cemetery of Vientake more time, until they hear that na are in ill repair and can be a major “still, small voice.” disappointment to family visitors, she While I thought I had an awareness traveled out to the cemetery in advance to of my purpose, a ascertain the status new one was of the graves. revealed to me Indeed, my great this past summer grandfather’s grave when my two had been knocked daughters, Alexis, over and complete28, and Shaina, ly covered by 25, and I visited brush. Through the Vienna, the city groundskeeper, she where my father/ obtained a quote their grandfather, for its repair, which of blessed memoI authorized ry, was born and before our journey. raised.

I had known In advance of for a long time that the trip, I asked my paternal grandJewish Vienna mother had died in Now (wien.info/ Treblinka in 1942 en/vienna-for/ and jewish-vienna) for my help in finding a father’s INTERIOR OF THE CITY TEMPLE, bilingual guide to brothWHERE MY FATHER BECAME lead us on a tour of A BAR MITZVAH IN 1913. INSET er had (FROM L. TO R.): MY DAUGHTERS the places where perALEXIS AND SHAINA, TOUR my father had ished GUIDE BARBARA, AND ME lived, and the cem- STANDING OUTSIDE THE TEMPLE. in etery where my Ausch­ grandfather and both sets of great grand- witz that same year. But thanks to parents were buried. They put me in Barbara, I also learned how my paternal touch with Barbara Timmerman of Vien- grandfather died—a question I’d na Walks tours (viennawalks.com), pondered throughout adulthood. She which specializes in Jewish tours. discovered an article in an archived Prior to our arrival, Barbara located all newspaper from 1912 and translated my dad’s addresses, from his birthplace it for me. My grandfather had suffered from incurable stomach ulcers. At Cindy R. Kandel is an active congregant and the age of 49, unable to endure the b’nai mitzvah instructor at Temple Israel in pain and support his family, he took West Bloomfield, Michigan. his own life. reform judaism

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In late July, Alexis, Shaina, and I arrived in Vienna. The next morning, Barbara met us in our hotel lobby. We hopped into her car and drove to the city’s massive Central Cemetery (Zentrafriedhof). More than 3 million people have been buried in its different sections (Jewish, Christian, Protestant, Russian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Muslim) since 1874, and it is still in use.

First, Barbara guided us to my great grandfather’s grave. Because of the repair work, I was happy to see it was the best looking grave in the row! It was also an eerie feeling to later stand at my grandfather’s grave—the very spot where I knew my dad as well as his mother, brother, and sister had once stood. The realization that we had traveled across the world to honor our ancestor on the 100th anniversary of his death added an aura of sanctity to the moment.

“Standing at the graves of my great grandfathers,” Shaina told me, “I understand that I am related to the bodies beneath the earth and tombstones, that I am alive because of them. I feel satisfied, and fulfilled, in pinpointing my lineage.”

After our cemetery visit, Barbara led us to the buildings where my father had lived. Some were prewar; others had been destroyed in the war and rebuilt in the ’50s and ’60s. In one instance, when the original edifice was not there, we entered a neighboring building that was architecturally similar to the one in which he had lived, taking in the beautiful craftsmanship of the woodwork around the doors and the detailed plasterwork on the walls and above each entrance.

Then we made our way to the City Temple (Stattemple), where my father had become a bar mitzvah in 1913, the year following his father’s death. Built in

Photographs of Maria Theresa Square and the Cit y Temple by Shaina Kandel

Greetings from Maria Theresa Square

1826, it was the only synagogue in Vienna to survive the war, though it had been desecrated by the Nazis. After the war, with funding from the city of Vienna, the building was restored to its original beauty. Now it is open for twice daily tours on Mondays through Thursdays— but security is tight. We had to enter one at a time, present our passports to the guard, answer his questions, then pass through both a metal detector and bulletproof glass sliding doors.

At last, we entered the sanctuary. It was sublime. The round space, accentuated by a repeating circular motif decorated in blues, golds, and dark woodwork, enveloped me. Above the golden ark stood two golden tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments, and the soft blue ceiling was covered with hundreds of small gold Stars of David that reminded me of God’s promise to Abraham. “It’s amazing,” Alexis told me, “to sit inside the same synagogue that my grandfather attended on Shabbat 100 years ago. Even though I never met him, by being here, I feel connected to him.”

The guide, a petite, well-spoken Viennese woman, narrated a history of the synagogue, Vienna, and the city’s Jews. Security at the City Temple has been tight, we learned, ever since a 1982 terrorist attack on the building.

As we were about to leave, at my daughters’ urging, I asked our guide, “Do records exist of those who celebrated their bar mitzvahs in the synagogue?”

“Why do you want to know?” she queried.

“My dad had his bar mitzvah here,” I explained.

“You must visit the archive room,” she said. “Wait here.”

She spoke to the guards, and soon we were ushered through a second set of bulletproof glass doors, up a flight of stairs, and into the archive room—a 10'x10' space with floor-to-ceiling shelves containing the birth, marriage, and death records of every Jew born in Vienna from 1826 through 1938.

The archive’s historian, Wolf-Erich Eckstein, asked me for my father’s name and birth date. After a few quick clicks on his keyboard, he pulled one of the ledgers off a shelf and carefully flipped through the pages until…there it was, my

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father’s name, along with his birth date, information about his parents and grandparents, the delivering doctor’s name, and the date of my father’s circumcision—all written in beautiful script and filling nine columns across two pages.

I was awestruck, speechless, and teary eyed. This, too, felt like sacred space. ♦♦♦ Wanting to worship with a community of Jews in this city of my family history, I decided to attend Shabbat services at Vienna’s only Progressive congregation, Or Chadash. I also felt the need to thank God for this incredible journey I was taking with my daughters.

It took us a while to locate the building. When we finally reached the right street, we saw nothing resembling a synagogue. There was also no signage on any of the doors, all of which looked indistinguishable from one another. But then I noticed a man blocking the entryway to one of the buildings. He wore street clothes, but his bearing said “security guard” to me. As we approached, I looked at him and inquired, “Or Chadash?” He smiled, I wished him “Shabbat Shalom,” he returned the greeting—and then opened the door.

The sanctuary was a simple room filled with about 40 green, blue, and white plastic chairs split by a center aisle, and a dark wood ark at the far end of the room. Though sparse, the space was lovely and warm. After all I’d experienced in Vienna, it felt good to cradle a siddur (prayer book) in my hands. I listened to familiar tunes and prayers and tried to join in, but my voice was muted by emotion. I kept thinking of my father and all that his family had endured during their lifetimes. I wondered if Dad somehow knew that his daughter and granddaughters were in the city where he came of age as a Jew on the 100-year anniversary of his father’s death. My feelings were so apparent, when the gentleman running the service paused for people to reform judaism

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mention names for Kaddish, he looked directly at me first, naturally assuming that I had a name to share. I just smiled appreciatively and shook my head.

At my side, Alexis was feeling ecstatic. “Being in Vienna, singing the same songs, reciting the same prayers, I realized: We are one! We are Jews, no matter the sect, where we are from, or the size of the congregation. It’s so good to know that wherever I travel I can walk into a synagogue and feel at home! This is why my connection to Judaism is strong. Even though I live in Las Vegas, hundreds of miles away from the family, I am always connected to a united community and family, the Jewish people.” ♦♦♦ It was after services, at the Kiddush, that my new life purpose revealed itself.

Speaking with Giuliana Schnitzler, the congregation’s vice president, I learned that the government had just passed a law awarding the Orthodox Jewish community sole power to determine which synagogues are legitimate and therefore eligible for government assistance.

Since the Orthodox community does not recognize the Progressive Jewish Movement, Giuliana explained, Or Chadash was at risk of having to close.

As a Jew, an American, and the child of a Holocaust survivor, I found it unconscionable that in 2012 Vienna, Jews were still at risk of not being able to pray as they choose to. Leaving the synagogue that evening, I vowed to join the struggle to save Or Chadash. So many people had been silent as Jewish freedoms were trampled in Europe, as my grandmother and uncle died in the Holocaust. I would not be silent now.

Or Chadash had made a strong ally. ♦♦♦ Since coming home, I have become an advocate for Or Chadash’s legitimacy in Vienna. I’ve written to the Federal Minister for Education, Arts, and Culture in Vienna and to the U.S. ambassador to Austria. I stay abreast of developments and inform my rabbis, who are now determined to help, too.

I went to Vienna in search of my ancestors and came away with a sacred mission.

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

JOHANNESBURG: Culture & Community Interview with Robert Jacobs

What do tourists find most interesting about your country and city?

Court, Women’s Jail, and Awaiting Trial Block Prison, highlights not to be missed are staircases from that dreaded prison and a fine collection of South African art and beaded work in the lobby. For a great day trip, visit a sanctuary to see elephants, cheetahs, or other rare or endangered species.

Most tourists come for the wealth of animal life in national parks and What Jewprivate aniish sites mal preserare most vation “game worth farms” dotvisiting? ted across Temple South Africa.

Israel in It is a land of Hillbrow great varia(1936), BET DAVID MEMBER KAREN TURIS LEADS A YOGA CLASS FOR tion of terdesigned by rain, climate, ORPHANS IN THE SYNAGOGUE GARDENS ON MANDELA DAY. the studio flora, and of the Jewfauna; the Western Cape is one of the ish architect Hermann Kallenbach, is world’s most diverse plant habitats. one of many splendid art Deco strucJohannesburg offers many museums tures found throughout the older areas and monuments documenting our nation- of Johannesburg. Kallenbach’s home al story from the Boer Wars (1890– on the Linksfield Ridge also served 1910), through Mahatma Ghandi’s devel- as Ghandi’s home during an early stay opment of passive resistance, into the in Johannesburg.

Apartheid period and the current demoThere are three Progressive congrecratic society. For example, the Cradle of gations in the city—Bet David, Beit Humankind exhibits some of the oldest Emanuel, and Temple Israel. Ours, Bet and most extraordinary fossils of human David, offers a garden setting and a ancestors to be excavated in the Sterkfon- warm English-speaking congregation tein and surrounding caves, one hour graced by a splendid choir. In addition, north of Johannesburg—and the excavaif your travels take you to the administion process is ongoing. The occasional, trative capital of Pretoria (Tswhane), seasonal tours of the Sterkfontein Caves you can visit Bet Menorah; and Proare fascinating. The Apartheid Museum gressive synagogues are also to be offers the most complete history of found in Cape Town, Green Point, Apartheid. At Constitution Hill, which Wynberg, West Coast/Milnerton, Durencompasses Old Fort, Constitutional ban, East London, and Port Elisabeth. reform judaism

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What are the culinary delights?

You name it; you can find it on the menu! As South Africans especially enjoy meat dishes, exceptional and reasonable steak houses exist in many locales. Also prominent are spicier curries and a variety of pan-African dishes.

Several certified kosher restaurants offer varied menus. Boboties (curried meat casseroles) as well as typical East European dairy dishes are frequently found along with butternut soup and beautifully presented salads. Produce is varied, local, and splendid!

What are your top Johannesburg travel tips?

Dress is almost universally informal.

Don’t be put off by the too frequent reports of violence, yet be cautious about walking in isolated areas. Hotels and tours provide excellent guidance about avoiding problems, safe storage of valuables (don’t leave valuables unattended or wear flashy, expensive jewelry), and general conduct issues that might differ in South Africa. Service in hotels and restaurants is inconsistent, but well given when requested politely; and questioning receives a better response than demanding or criticism. Tipping for service often starts at 10% of a bill.

South Africa is a right-hand drive country, and not for the timid; although most roads are excellent, I would not necessarily say the same of the drivers!

Public transit in town is not very usable, although the Gautrain (high speed train) to and from the airport is brilliant. Contacting the Progressive Jewish community in advance offers the opportunity to experience Jewish life in a personal way.

Lion Park Photo by A lan de Sousa Caires

Rabbi Robert Jacobs serves as rabbi of Bet David Congregation in Johannesburg, South Africa

Greetings from a springbok and blessboks in Lion Park

What is the history of Johannesburg’s Jewish community?

Jewish life is a more than a century old. The office of Chief Rabbi has existed for some 75 years. Most Jews trace their origins to Lithuania: The discovery of gold here in the 19th century convinced many of their ancestors to escape Lithuania’s poverty, wars, and changing regimes—such as the in aftermath of Tsar Alexander II’s assassination in 1881—by immigrating to South Africa in hopes of a better life. Early arrivals established shops or became ’Smous (peddlers) until settling down in towns and villages throughout the country.

Now 80 years old, Progressive Judaism has a credible record here. It reached a seeming high point about mid-way along that timeline; the period since the violent Soweto student uprising in 1976 has seen a decline in both the overall number of Jews (from an estimated 120,000 to 70,000 today) and Progressive Jews (from an estimated 11,000 to 6,000 today). The vast majority of Jews here affiliate with Orthodoxy, and there’s been an increase in both right-wing, Orthodox groups and in disaffiliated Jews.

What is your worship like at Bet David Congregation?

Our worship is formal and traditional; however, dress is informal, as is the congregation’s attitude to such decorum issues as on-time arrival and staying in place during the duration of the service.

All South African Union for Progressive Judaism congregations use Mishkan T’filah World Union Edition. The local musical tradition is choral, with professional quartets at Beit Emanuel and Bet David for formal services. A Bet David hallmark is our mixed voice choir singing a cappella, which is controversial since the local Orthodox community has imposed a ban on women singing in public (which we are fighting). At Yom Hashoah and Yom HaAtzma’ut programs for the entire Jewish community, women are no longer allowed to raise their voices in song. But at Bet David, our tradition of mixed choir, featuring a splendid soprano as lead singer, continues.

Bet David is known for its special blessings, including parents’ blessing for children prior to Kiddush, commu-

nal prayers concluding with a prayer for pets, and end-of-calendar month birthday blessings. Here our blessed bread is known as kitke, apparently a Polish term referring to ornate plaster work, which is also braided and looks like a challah.

Are services in English?

South Africa is a multi-lingual country, with 11 official languages—Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa, and Zulu. Zulu is the most common home language and English the language of commerce. Since the majority of congregants speak English (a minority are first-language speakers of Afrikaans, a local version of FlemishDutch), services mix Hebrew and English, with sermons in English.

What are your congregants’ religious backgrounds?

We serve three distinctive groups: Jews whose parents or grandparents were among the early proponents of Progressive Judaism, Jews raised in Orthodoxy, and those who have chosen Judaism— many of whom are well integrated into the congregational leadership. South Africa’s transformation from a rigidly racially divided society is truly lived out through our congregational life. Especially since 1994—South Africa’s first democratic election, which brought Nelson Mandela into the presidency—the number of Jews-by-choice from multiple ethnicities—among them Afrikaaners, Indians, and descendants of black Yemenite Jews—has expanded, enriching the community. As another example, South Africa has offered marriage under Civil Union since late 2006, and the South African Union for Progressive Judaism has accepted same-sex marriage under a chuppah since May 2007; we may be the only mainstream religious group in South Africa to do so. While the first aufruf for two grooms created a stir, the congregation has not looked back.

Do you have unique celebrations?

Our Shavuot morning cheesecake contest—many of the cheesecakes flavoured with passion fruit or other tropical fruits—attracts lots of tasters. We also reform judaism

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have special community days, such as Mandela Day—near the first president’s birthday—when we welcome 100+ orphans from Alexander for fun and food.

As our community does not have access to the mikveh at Orthodox synagogues, new Jews-by-choice are immersed in a suitable, private swimming pool.

How has South African history influenced Jewish life in Johannesburg?

Much of the early history of Progressive Judaism is linked with the years of Apartheid. Jews were over-represented in the anti-Apartheid struggle, but also had members of the National Party that perpetuated Apartheid. For Bet David Congregation, a diverse suburban community, the crisis year was 1987, when Alexander Township—just kilometers away—faced school closings as members of the black community engaged in struggle against the Apartheid regime.

In response, a few Sisterhood women started an emergency 12th-grade school, offering preparation for the country’s “matric” exams (a prerequisite before students can pursue higher education).

Twenty-six years later, Mitzvah School, on the Bet David campus, has produced hundreds of graduates, some of whom have become communtiy leaders— churchmen, physicians, bank managers, etc.—in the renewed South Africa. Nowadays Bet David’s Kehillah (formerly Sisterhood) also supplies foodstuffs for a primary school, an after-school haven, an orphanage, and a shelter for street orphans. Fulfilling the needs of the impoverished is a major component of our work.

In today’s diverse South Africa, where about 250 separate religious groups are recognized, religion is primarily a private matter. The Orthodox-dominated Jewish community attempts to fence off Jews from Progressive Judaism in a way that at times borders upon hostility. Meanwhile, the non-Jewish community sees all of the Jewish community as one, and appreciates the Jews’ strong contributions to South African politics, arts, business, and academia. For Jews, being publicly proud of one’s Jewishness remains a respected tradition.

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

The Top World Nations with Jewish Populations & Their Reform Congregations*

T

he following is a compilation of the nations with Reform congregations, from the country with the largest total Jewish population (Israel) to the smallest (El Salvador). All of these population figures are estimates (see the “Notes” on the next page for sources). Outside North America the name “Reform” is used less frequently, so the WUPJ has provided each community’s preferred self-description (Reform, Progressive, Liberal, Modern).

Jewish Pop.: 5,413,800 Congregations: 35 Locations: Various Description: Reform/ Progressive

2 United States

Jewish Pop.: 5,275,000 Congregations: 839 Locations: Various Description: Reform

3

France

Jewish Pop.: 483,500 Congregations: 13 Locations: Various Description: Progressive

5 United Kingdom Jewish Pop.: 292,000 Congregations: 82 Locations: Various Description: Reform/ Progressive/Liberal

6 Russia

Jewish Pop.: 205,000 Congregations: 21 Locations: Various Description: Modern

7 Argentina

Jewish Pop.: 182,300 Congregations: 3 Locations: Buenos Aires,

PERFORMANCE OF “STEP BY STEP - SAUWA SAUWA,” A MUSICAL PROJECT SPONSORED BY THE LEO BAECK EDUCATION CENTER AND THE EIN MAHEL SCHOOL IN ISRAEL TO PROMOTE COOPERATION BETWEEN JEWISH AND ARAB YOUTH.

Locations: Various Description: Progressive

9 Australia

Jewish Pop.: 107,500 Congregations: 15 Locations: Various Description: Progressive

10

Brazil

Jewish Pop.: 95,600 Congregations: 7 Locations: Various Description: Progressive

11

Ukraine

Jewish Pop.: 71,500 Congregations: 27 Locations: Various Description: Modern/ Progressive

HILLEGUUS TIMNER, THEN CONGREGATION PRESIDENT, LIGHTS THE SHABBAT CANDLES AT LIBERAAL JOODSE GEMEENTE DEN HAAG IN THE HAGUE.

4 Canada

Jewish Pop.: 375,000 Congregations: 25 Locations: Various Description: Reform

Capital Federal Description: Progressive

8 Germany

Jewish Pop.: 119,000 Congregations: 24 reform judaism

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South Africa

13

Hungary

Jewish Pop.: 70,800 Congregations: 10 Locations: Various Description: Progressive Jewish Pop.: 48,600 Congregations: 2 Locations: Budapest Description: Progressive

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14 Belgium

Jewish Pop.: 30,300 Congregations: 2 Locations: Brussels Description: Progressive

15 Netherlands

Jewish Pop.: 30,000 Congregations: 10 Locations: Various Description: Progressive

16 Italy

Jewish Pop.: 28,400 Congregations: 3 Locations: Florence, Milan Description: Progressive

17 Chile

Jewish Pop.: 20,500 Congregations: 3 Locations: Las Condes, Valparaiso Description: Progressive

18 Switzerland

Jewish Pop.: 17,600 Congregations: 2 Locations: Geneva, Zurich Description: Progressive

Israel Photo by Stefanie Horn, Head of the German Department and & Manager of the Musical Tour Step by Step Sauwa Sauwa to Germany, The Leo Baeck Education Center in Haifa; The Hag ue Photo by Ido Menco, idomenco.nl

1 Israel

19 Belarus

Jewish Pop.: 16,500 Congregations: 13 Locations: Various Description: Progressive

20

Sweden

Jewish Pop.:

15,000 Congregations: 1 Locations: Stockholm Description: Progressive

21

Spain

Jewish Pop.: 12,000 Congregations: 2 Locations: Barcelona Description: Progressive

Description: Progressive/ Reform

27 India

Jewish Pop.: 5,000 Congregations: 1 Locations: Mumbai Description: Reform

28

Czech Republic

Jewish Pop.: 3,900 Congregations: 1 Locations: Prague Description: Progressive

29

Poland

Jewish Pop.: 3,200 Congregations: 3

Congregations: 2 Locations: Beijing, Shanghai Description: Liberal

32 Puerto Rico Jewish Pop.: 1,500 Congregations: 1 Locations: San Juan Description: Reform

33 Ireland

Jewish Pop.: 1,200 Congregations: 1 Locations: Dublin Description: Progressive

36 Virgin Islands Jewish Pop.: 500 Congregations: 1 Locations: Amalie (St. Thomas) Description: Reform

37 Curaçao

Jewish Pop.: 350 Congregations: 1 Locations: Curacao Description: Progressive

38 Bahamas

Jewish Pop.: 300 Congregations: 1 Locations: Nassau Description: Reform

22 Austria

39 Singapore

23 Panama

40 Jamaica

Jewish Pop.: 9,000 Congregations: 1 Locations: Vienna Description: Progressive

Jewish Pop.: 300 Congregations: 1 Locations: Singapore Description: Progressive/ Reform

Jewish Pop.: 8,000 Congregations: 1 Locations: Panama City Description: Progressive

24 New Zealand

Jewish Pop.: 7,500 Congregations: 3 Locations: Dunedin, Epsom (Auckland suburb), Wellington Description: Progressive

25

Denmark

Jewish Pop.: 6,400 Congregations: 1 Locations: Copenhagen Description: Progressive

26

Hong Kong

Jewish Pop.: 5,000 Congregations: 1 Locations: Hong Kong

Jewish Pop.: 200 Congregations: 1 Locations: Kingston Description: Reform A PROCESSION OF 11 TORAH SCROLLS FROM 11 CONGREGATIONS IN CELEBRATION OF THE DEDICATION OF THE WUPJ’S SANDY BRESLAUER BEIT SIMCHA CENTER FOR PROGRESSIVE JUDAISM IN MINSK, BELARUS, 2010.

Locations: Warsaw, Krakow Description: Progressive

30

Costa Rica Jewish Pop.:

2,500 Congregations: 1 Locations: Sabana Description: Progressive

31

China

Jewish Pop.:

1,500

34 Luxembourg

Jewish Pop.: 600 Congregations: 1 Locations: Strassen Description: Progressive

35 Cuba

Jewish Pop.: 500 Congregations: 1 Locations: Havana Description: Progressive

41 Suriname

Jewish Pop.: 200 Congregations: 1 Locations: Paramaribo Description: Progressive

42 Aruba

Jewish Pop.: 200 Congregations: 1 Locations: Oranjestad Description: Progressive

43 El Salvador

Jewish Pop.: 100 Congregations: 1 Locations: San Benito Description: Progressive

*Notes: All estimated world Jewish population figures are from “World Jewish Population 2010-North American Jewish Data Bank” by Israel demographer Sergio Della Pergola, except for Hong Kong (Hadassah Magazine, Oct. 2012), Bahamas (Jewish Virtual Library), and Aruba (Joshua Project In-Country Profile). Demographic numbers vary widely depending on how being Jewish is defined (such as if the figures exclude Jews who have not registered with the official community), when the figures were assembled, and other factors. “Congregations” refers to the number of Reform/Progressive/Liberal communities. “Various” indicates communities in four or more locations. For more information: wupj.org. reform judaism

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RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

SINGAPORE: Culture & Community Interview with Lennard Thal

Greetings from Marina Bay

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scroll is the most significant way to honor the memory of a deceased relative.

And try to attend services at the Progressive congregation, United Hebrew Congregation of Singapore, where you’ll be warmly welcomed. They’re only held once a month on Friday nights, so check the synagogue website (uhcsingapore.org) for the schedule.

What is the local cuisine?

Singapore’s signature cuisine, called Peranakan, combines Chinese, Malay, and other culinary influences, typically blending ingredients and wok-cooking techniques from the Chinese (who immigrated here before and after World War II) with spices popular in the Malay/ Indonesian community (the indigenous population). Peranakans are descendants of marriages between Chinese immigrants and local Malays.

A good place to sample any Asian cuisine you wish—Peranakan, Malaysian, Chinese, you name it—is one of the city’s “hawker centers,” where typically 30 or 40 different vendors offer inexpensive and safe food—health guidelines are strictly controlled by the government. “Jewish foods” of all kinds can be found at the local “kosher store,” as everyone calls it, near the Maghein Aboth synagogue.

A caveat: As I like to quip, “Travel in Singapore can be a ‘broadening’ experience!”

Do you have other insider tips?

The landing card distributed on all flights into Singapore is very clear: Anyone trafficking in drugs is subject to the death penalty. Indeed, while much exaggeration is made of local laws against jaywalking and spitting, the government values protecting the quality of life

Marina Bay, Singapore: © Clicktrick / Dreamstime.com

orchids and other stunning flora that flourish in Singapore’s tropical/equatorial climate. Tip: go early in the morning before it gets too hot! On a clear day you can view parts of Malaysia and Indonesia as well as Singapore’s harbor from What excites the 57th floor of tourists about the iconic Marina Singapore?

Bay Sands Hotel— Singapore and chocolate lovprides itself on ers can choose offering both resifrom among the dents and tourists 57 sumptuous the highest quality chocolate varieties of life. That experiat their famed ence starts even nightly Chocolate before you arrive.

Bar! Stop by the Singapore Airlines Raffles Hotel to is rated number enjoy handsome one in the world colonial architecMEMBERS OF UNITED HEBREW CONGREGATION OF SINGAPORE JOIN IN CELEBRATING HANUKKAH, 2010. for first-rate serture, doormen and vice, safety, and bellmen in period on-time arrivals; indeed, in my 40+ costume, and its Long Bar, renowned for flights to the city, I’ve never landed more the signature drink, the fruity-flavored than 10 minutes later than scheduled.

Singapore Sling.

Waterfalls and fresh orchids beautify Singapore is a shopper’s paradise, Changi Airport, and all passengers have with very high-end shops and antique free computer access. This clean, “poststores stocking goods from around Asia. modern” city (as it is often described) A good day’s activity is walking through has no homelessness, no unemployment, Chinatown (see the Buddha’s Tooth and practically no street crime, making Relic Temple), Little India (see the colit a remarkably pleasant, safe place to orful Hindu Temple), and Arab Street visit. Because it is a magnetic center for (see the Sultan Mosque), all within five commerce—some people refer to the to ten minutes’ drive of one another. “national religion” as “capitalism”— Singapore is a locus of business for What are the best Jewish sites? many North American companies. PerI’d begin with the two Baghdadi synmanent residents can’t imagine living agogues—Maghein Aboth on Waterloo anywhere else. Once a taxi driver asked Street, built in 1873, and Chesed El, on me where I was from, and when I said Oxley Rise, built in 1900, each of which America, he responded, “What’s it like, has a large “walk-in” ark containing living in a third-world country?” approximately two dozen Torah scrolls.

Be sure to take a walk through the Many descendants of Iraqi Jews here Botanical Gardens, featuring unusual believe that commissioning a new Torah Rabbi Lennard Thal, senior vice president emeritus of the Union for Reform Judaism, has served as visiting rabbi of United Hebrew Congregation in Singapore for the past 20 years.

above individual liberties. As one UHC member explained to me upon my first visit, the difference in the attitude toward law-breaking between Singapore and the U.S. is simply this: “In the U.S., crime is against the law; in Singapore, it is simply not permitted.”

tants, hedge fund analysts, lawyers, etc.—who are 10–12 time zones away from the place they consider “home.”

By the way, the one piece of liturgy that is a bit unsettling for this community is “the prayer for our nation,” as some members are “permanent residents” of Singapore, but the vast majority are not.

What synagogue options are there?

Right now there are four or five congregations. Two (Maghein Aboth and Chesed El) are led by Chabad rabbis and populated mostly by the descendants of the Baghdadi Jews who developed Jewish communities from Mumbai to Shanghai in the 19th century. The third is an Ashkenazic Orthodox minyan. The fourth is a primarily French Ashkenazic Orthodox minyan, which began this year; it is too early to tell whether it will be sustainable.

Fifth—and most important to the Reform community—is the congregation I’ve long served as visiting rabbi: the United Hebrew Congregation of Singapore.

What is synagogue life like at UHC?

The minhag is best captured by the oft-repeated refrain by the incumbent president each erev Rosh Hashanah: “As our first president once said, ‘Welcome to the Reform-Conservative-Reconstructionist-Liberal-Progressive congregation of Singapore.’”

Our customs are primarily Reform, but Conservative, Reconstructionist, and other non-Orthodox Jews feel very comfortable here, in part because the Jewish communal experience is similar to what they’re used to in North America. As the congregation overwhelmingly consists of expats from all over the world— especially from the U.S. and Canada— and since everyone speaks English— although for some it is their second, third, or, at least in one case, fourth language—we use Gates of Repentance on the High Holy Days and Mishkan T’filah for Shabbat and other holidays.

For the High Holy Days, American Conference of Cantors President Susan Caro serves as cantor, combining traditional nusach and contemporary melodies (Debbie Friedman, Jeff Klepper, etc.). Participating with likeminded folk on these holidays is particularly meaningful to the vast majority of congregants—bankers, management consul-

How ethnically diverse is UHC?

Very. Of the 140 affiliated households, 15–20 members are ethnically Asian. One longstanding practice at our two communal seder celebrations is to ask the “Four Questions” in as many languages as are native to the various participants. This typically includes Mandarin, Cantonese, Indonesian, Thai, Korean, Japanese, Javanese, as well as Portuguese, Serbian, Russian, Swedish, Afrikaans, and Yiddish—great fun!

The community is also more stable than in years past. Whereas expats generally used to stay in Singapore for three to five years, nowadays many stay on longer, and three families to whom we had bid farewell have since returned.

Life is pretty easy here—in addition to the economic opportunities, there are good educational options and quality healthcare. As an active lay leader commented to me, “I’m leaving in two years, and I’ve been saying that for the last 15.”

Can life also be difficult for the Progressive community, given the government’s strong hand?

Twenty years ago, when five founding families created a non-Orthodox alternative for themselves, a big challenge was Singaporean law, which does not include freedom of assembly in the way U.S. law does. The founders had to “fly below the radar screen” (essentially utilizing “word of mouth”) until 1995, when the government formally recognized UHC as a “society.” Since then the community has been able to advertise in various expat periodicals and other venues.

Are there any security concerns?

For a few years, because of security reasons, the American government placed Gurkhas (highly trained Nepalese soldiers who served in the British or Indian army)—sporting daggers on their continued on page 19 reform judaism

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GLOBAL NEWS

China

Starting Up in Shanghai: In Spring 2012, 70 people in Shanghai, China joined together on the second night of Pesach to take part in the city’s first-ever liberal seder. Led by Cantor Diego Edelberg of the United Jewish Congregation in Hong Kong and assisted

by Hebrew Union College Student Rabbi Megan Brudney, the seder brought together and inspired Progressive Jews in Shanghai— who have since gone on to form a Liberal Jewish community.

Germany

~& ~

Synagogue to Storage Facility to Synagogue: For decades, a farmer in the German village of Bodenfelde stored his equipment in a small, half-timbered building hardly recognizable for what it was—a 175-year-old synagogue JÜDISCHE GEMEINDE GÖTTINGEN SYNAGOGUE built in 1825. In 1937 the congregation had sold the synagogue to the farmer, and a year later, on Kristallnacht, the farmer defended his purchase against Nazi hooligans who wanted to torch it. Thus the building was spared the fate that befell hundreds of synagogues that night across Germany and Austria.

In 1990, a few hundred Jews from the Former Soviet Union settled in Göttingen, Germany.

Its Jewish mayor, Artur Levi, a Holocaust survivor, and local educator Detlev Herbst, an expert on local Jewish history, supported the idea of moving the historic Bodenfelde synagogue to Gottingen, whose large synagogue had been destroyed 70 years earlier. continued on p.17

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

BUDAPEST: Culture & Community Interview with Erika Siegfried-Tompson

Greetings from Chain Bridge and Fisherman’s Bastion

Festival, a free, joyous one-day Jewish music-performance-food festival, takes place each June. From late August to early September our Jewish Summer Festival features Jewish music, dance, fine art, books, and films. Also in early September is the Day of Open Doors Street Party, offering music, Hora dancing, arts and crafts, Krav Maga (Israeli martial arts) demonstrations, and more. Throughout

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Chain Bridge Photo: Lefpap / Dreamstime.com

Outside the capital, visit the splendid late 18th-century Baroque synagogue of Mad, located in a region renowned for its wines (and have a first-class wine What excites tourists about Budapest? tasting experience at Torok Pince). In the Budapest offers grandiosely beauti1850s some 800 Jews lived here, many ful views. From the gentle curve of the of them wine traders and kosher wine Danube River, you see rising hills and producers. The last Jew of Mad died in lovely islands spanned by great bridges 1994, but the community’s synagogue, of various styles. The vista is spectacurenovated in 2004 and awarded the prestigious Europa Nostra Heritage Award, remains. It is now cared for by a nonJewish couple.

If you call them (00 36 47 348 043), they will show you the FROM L. TO R.: BET ORIM MEMBERS CELEBRATE HANUKKAH, 2011; SIM SHALOM MEMBERS CELEBRATE SHAVUOT, 2012. synagogue lar at night. For a romantic evening, the year, exciting and buzzing Limmud and tell you many interesting stories. spend dusk to dark on the terrace of the days offer an array of Jewish communityCitadella Restaurant. You’ll never forbuilding study sessions, many of them Where can you find the best get the sight of the lights coming up, in English.

Jewish cuisine? one by one, on our historic buildings Budapest’s main Jewish attraction is I recommend Yiddische Mamma and on the bridges over the Danube. the Dohany Synagogue, which seats Mia, which offers a fusion of Jewish and In Buda, the oldest part of the city, 3,000 and is said to be the largest conMediterranean cuisine; Fülemüle walk the little winding streets and you’ll tinuously active synagogue in Europe, (Nightingale) Restaurant, presenting tradiscover many restored medieval buildand the third largest in the world (after ditional home-made recipes for goose, ings. And visit the inner city of Pest, the Belz Great Synagogue in Jerusalem, smoked meats, and cholent (a Hungaria busy commercial and shopping area. seating 6,000, and the Satmar synaan-Jewish specialty bean dish); and Visitors are often impressed by gogue in Kyrias Joel, New York, said to Rosenstein Restaurant, a “hidden treaBudapest’s Art Nouveau architecture, seat 5,500—7,000). The adjoining Jew- sure” (as it’s located in a not-so-nice seen in many late 19th- and early 20thish Museum, built on the former site of area near the Eastern Railways station), century buildings. The unique style the birthplace of Zionist visionary Thewhere the goose and duck are prepared incorporates old Hungarian folk motifs odor Herzl, houses Europe’s second with an especially light touch. and beautifully glazed pottery roof tiles. largest Judaica collection (after Berlin’s Don’t miss out on the traditional JewJudisches Museum). Also worth seeing ish dessert called flodni—a layered pasWhat are the Jewish attractions? is the 14th-century medieval Synatry of ground walnut paste, poppy seeds, Tourists can revel in Hungary’s Jewgogue of Buda, on what was formerly and apples. You’ll find the best flodni ish cultural revival. The Judafest Street called “Jewish Street.” (with cherries instead of apple) in the Erika Siegfried-Tompson is a member of Bet Orim in Budapest and an activist in the Hungarian Reform Movement.

Holocaust Memorial Center’s coffee shop. Also try the Ruszwurm “kremes” (Cream Pastry), a mouth-watering sweet made of egg, vanilla and whipped cream, available at the Ruszwurm coffee shop, the oldest confectionery on the continent (since 1827), still run by the last active Hungarian confectionery dynasty.

How many Jews live in Hungary?

The estimated number is 70,000— 100,000—a large variation because the vast majority of Jews are unaffiliated.

Many hide their Jewishness and/or are not even aware of their Jewish origins, despite nearly 2000 years of Jewish presence in the area. In the Second World War, Nazi Germans and Hungarians killed approximately 500,000 of 700,000 Hungarian Jews, all but extinguishing what had been the largest Jewish community in Central Europe. Because of Nazi persecution, the subsequent Communist oppression of all religions, and continuing deep-rooted antisemitism, neither the Jewish community nor the general society has begun Vergangenheitsbewaltigung, the proper processing of the past. Nonetheless, since 1989, the end of the Communist era, all religious groups have experienced a revival.

What is synagogue life like?

The Neolog community, a Conservative Jewish stream that was once great and is now declining, lists 17 Budapest synagogues on its website. Budapest also has a small, independent Orthodox community with four synagogues; a small but vocal Chabad Lubavicher community with two synagogues; and— in a revival of 19th-century Hungarian Reform Judaism—a Progressive community with two congregations, Sim Shalom and Bet Orim.

Sim Shalom (“Give Peace”), founded as an association in 1994 and as a congregation in 2004, was the first Progressive synagogue to be established in post-Communist Hungary. Like many post-war Hungarian Jews, its founding leader, Katalin Keleman, a language teacher by profession, only became aware of her Jewish roots as an adult.

She began engaging with Judaism in the late 80s, when the regime slowly relaxed its opposition to religion. Even-

tually she trained to become a rabbi and was ordained at the Leo Baeck College in London. Upon her return to Hungary, she slowly organized a community.

Today Sim Shalom has approximately 60 paying members and as many occasional visitors. Services—using the community’s own siddur in Hebrew, transliteration, and Hungarian—are held on most Friday nights in a rented innercity apartment. The atmosphere is joyful, with lots of singing, as Cantor Miklos Budai plays guitar and a young member accompanies him on drums.

My congregation, Bet Orim (House of Light), with approximately 50 members and about 100 supporters, was founded in 2005 to educate Hungarian Jews about Jewish traditions, history, practices, and ethics—knowledge that had not been passed down to them from their parents and grandparents. We consider it our mission to make both members and dropins feel equally welcome. Shabbat services are led by Hungarian-born Rabbi Ferenc Raj (PhD, Rabbi Emeritus of Congregation Beth El in Berkeley, California) with humor, love, and a little extra Jewish teaching that makes everybody feel that they’ve taken away more than they came in with. His erudite sermons reverberate long after he delivers them.

There is no dress code; you wear whatever makes you feel comfortable. We read from our own siddur, in Hebrew, transliteration, and Hungarian, with a smattering of English text and poems. After the service we encourage lively discussion.

For all festivals, services are in both Hungarian and English, which enables Bet Orim to reach out to Budapest’s English speaking Jews and attract many foreign visitors. On the High Holy Days, services occasionally feature the well-known Hungarian pianist/singer Zoltan Neumark, the Yiddish-HebrewLadino singer Diana Samu-Pandzarisz (who belongs to the congregation), and the internationally renowned classical guitarist Sandor Mester. Their masterful “performances” draw big crowds.

Do you have unique communal celebrations?

On Sukkot, Sim Shalom builds a sukkah in a public park, waving the lulav and continued on page 23 reform judaism

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GLOBAL NEWS from p.15 Gottingen resident Brigitta Stammer oversaw the arranging of private donations—and arranged for the synagogue to be taken apart, wall-by-wall, stone-by-stone, piece-by-piece, moved 25 miles to the city, and reassembled.

The small synagogue was rededicated in November 2008.

Today it is the house of prayer for some 160 members of the liberal Jüdische Gemeinde Göttingen.

Israel

~& ~

1st Arab Students Group Hosted in Israel: In 2012, the Reform Movement’s Beit Shmuel (a cultural and educational mecca and housing complex that also serves as the WUPJ’s Jerusalem headquarters) hosted the first student group from the Arab world to visit and learn about Israel.

Kivunim (“Directions”), a gapyear program in Israel based at Beit Shmuel, developed a relationship with Moadon Mimouna, a group of Moroccan Muslim students who study the history and culture of Moroccan Jews and Judaism in order to better understand their own culture and history. Kivunim’s Executive Director Peter Geffen led a two-week experience that included a visit to Ramallah and meetings with high-ranking Palestinian officials.

Participants left Israel with a new appreciation of the Jewish people’s accomplishments in the state and a strong desire to return: one dreams of becoming Morocco’s first ambassador to Israel; others are reviewing scholarship opportunities for graduate studies.

Progressive Preschool: In the fall of 2011, the Israel Movement for Progressive Judaism, in cooperation with the Jerusalem municipality, opened the Nitzanim precontinued on p.19

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

MOSCOW: Culture & Community Interview with Leonid Bimbat

Hineini was officially registered with the government as a congregation.

Now there are three Progressive conWhat should travelers not miss gregations in Moscow: Hineini, Severin Moscow? naya (“Northern,” established in 2000), There is so much to see...Red Square, and our synagogue, Le-Dor va-Dor the Kremlin and its (“From Generation museums, our art to Generation,” galleries, the Bolestablished in shoi Theater, ballet, 1999). Hineini and opera…the city is Severnaya serve alive with culture. hundreds of older people seeking a What Jewish friendly Jewish sites are most environment in worth visiting? their neighborThe most imporhood. Le-Dor vatant Jewish site is Dor is primarily the stunning 1906 for families with Moscow Choral young children— BAR MITZVAH AT LE-DOR VA-DOR. Synagogue, with its we took the name Moorish style interior and Arabesque after many families with small children moldings and murals. And be sure to visit decided to join. About 80% of our 200 the new Jewish Museum, which tells the members are under 40, and some famistory of Jews in Russia from Tsarist times lies have 3 or even 4 children. through today. I would also recommend Shalom Theater, the first professional What else distinguishes Jewish theater in Russia, where you can your congregation? see musicals, drama, and comedy.

Very few of our members were raised as Jews, at least with some degree of What is your top travel tip? observance. Most discovered their Judaism If you travel in winter, take warm as adults. My personal story is perhaps clothes with you, as -30 Celsius (-22° typical. Only at age 15, at the time of Fahrenheit) is not an unusual temperaPerestroika in 1990, did I learn that my ture for winter months. mother was Jewish. I started to learn Hebrew in my native Ekaterinburg, RusWhen did Progressive Judaism sia, and then began to bring my mother take root in Moscow? and maternal grandparents to Jewish Because of the events of the last cenevents. Much later I became involved tury—wars, the repressive Soviet syswith Reform Judaism, but my very first tem—it was not possible for Judaism to step was choosing to be a Jew. Then came develop freely and naturally in Russia. the choice of what kind of Jew to be— The first Reform Jewish group was Orthodox, secular, Reform. As a student established only 25 years ago. In 1989, of literature, I felt most at home with Rabbi Leonid Bimbat is rabbi of Congregation Le-Dor va-Dor in Moscow.

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Reform Judaism, which embraced the questioning of text. This spiritual journey led to my becoming a rabbi.

Much of my work at Congregation Le-Dor va-Dor centers on helping Moscow Jews who have little Jewish literacy become more knowledgeable and raise Jewish children. Many of our adult congregants have a Jewish father and non-Jewish mother, and are therefore not recognized as Jewish by the Orthodox and Lubavitchers. At Le-Dor va-Dor, these patrilineal families are accepted and get to meet others like them; on Sundays, when their children are in religious school, for example, we’ve created a separate space where they can share their experiences and concerns.

About 20% of our members have converted to Judaism via the FSU’s Reform Beth Din (rabbinical court). Most of these individuals are converting because they have no proof that their parents/ grandparents were Jewish. In the Soviet period people’s ethnic origins were stated on their passports, and their parents’ origins were recorded on their birth certificates (nowadays ethnic origin does not appear on any official documents). During WWII some families purposely disposed of their documents, and it is now impossible to trace their origins because many archives were destroyed during the war. Even for those congregants who were raised Jewish, if they do not have supporting documents, the only option to be acknowledged as a Jew by the Jewish community is by a Reform Beth Din conversion. The process takes at least one year, and many converts later become very active members. They also teach their parents and even their grandparents about their Jewish heritage.

K remlin Photograph: Diment y / Dreamstime.com

Greetings from the Kremlin wall at sunrise.

What are worship services like?

Services are led by one of two Russian-born rabbis (Rabbi Alexander Lyskovoy and myself) or our Ukrainian cantor (Cantor Dmitry Karpenko). Having been largely influenced by the Israeli Movement for Progressive Judaism, we (and other Moscow Reform congregations) use the Israeli Reform prayer book Ha’avoda Shebalev, which has been translated into Russian, reciting most of the prayers in Hebrew and a few in Russian. When a visitor from abroad joins us, we always provide an English translation.

Our liturgical music is a unique blend of American and Israeli melodies, Chasidic tunes, and some additional melodies with a Ukrainian flavor composed by our cantor. The style of our services varies. On Friday night we sing more “camp-style” melodies accompanied by guitar, and attract young Jews.

On Saturday morning, services are more “classical,” sometimes using an electronic organ, and families with children are the main participants.

Which holidays are most popular?

Most popular is Passover, which we typically celebrate with communal seders intermixing traditional readings, music (jazz and other styles), and video presentations of haggadah illustrations. Seders are popular in the wider Jewish community as well. This is our time to celebrate freedom from Soviet oppression, recalling the period not so long ago when it was forbidden to observe our religion.

Next in importance to our community is Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. Year by year, more of our members come to understand the importance

Singapore

continued from page 15 belts and machine guns at the ready— at the entrance of all American institutions in Singapore. This included the American Club, where UHC services are typically held, requiring all High Holy Day worshipers to pass by these austere looking, unsmiling figures before entering “shul.” On the first such occasion I whispered to my wife, “Do we have to be worried if the Gurkha hears that my sermon was not especially good

of the High Holy Days as a time of spiritual renewal.

What are your most important Jewish lifecycle celebrations?

The most meaningful ones at LeDor va-Dor are baby naming, because we have many small children, and b’rit milah, because many adults who were not raised as Jews decide to be circumcised in private ceremonies at a local clinic.

Also, bar/bat mitzvah ceremonies are becoming increasingly common here. In the past, 13-year-olds had birthday parties; now most have a meaningful Jewish rite of passage.

Whereas five years ago parents did not expect their children to have formal learning, it is now understood that bar/ bat mitzvah involves a learning period of up to one year.

What else is unique about Le-Dor va-Dor?

We are the first Progressive congregation in Russia to introduce membership fees. The amount is very small, and does not allow the congregation to be self-sufficient; it represents a “social” (symbolic) membership fee for all those who chose to identify as Reform Jews.

It is very unlikely that our two other Moscow congregations will follow this practice, since their members are older Jews—pensioners coping with limited income and steep utility bills.

We hope you will come visit us.

Le-Dor va-Dor is a friendly and lively community, with many members who speak English. You will be warmly welcomed here. tonight?” Now, the Gurkhas are gone.

Fortunately, Singapore has no history of antisemitism. In a city where Buddhism and Christianity are thought to be the largest religious groupings, with significant Hindu and Muslim populations too, the Jews seem well-respected and fit in with ease. Jews here have also held prominent government positions: David Marshall, an Iraqi Jew, served as Singapore’s first Chief Minister, and later as Singapore’s ambassador to France, Portugal, Spain, and Switzerland.

Come visit. You’ll enjoy Singapore. reform judaism

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GLOBAL NEWS from p.17 school, Jerusalem’s only preschool program for children of refugees and foreign workers living in Israel. As a result, 20 pupils ages 3–6 from Eritrea, Sudan, the DRC (Congo), the Philippines, and Korea are improving their Hebrew language skills and being prepared for mainstream Israeli education on the HUC/Mercaz ShimshonBeit Shmuel campus.

Poland

~& ~

Training Progressive ParaProfessionals: As there are no native Polish-speaking Progressive rabbis working in Poland yet, Beit Polska (the national association of Progressive Judaism in Poland) is running an intensive service-leader training program in Warsaw called Shatz (short for Sh’lichei Tzibur, which in Hebrew means “service leaders”) for native first-year and second-year students. Once the students achieve the required level of competency, they will lead Shabbat services at small, emerging Jewish communities throughout the country Milan Offers Torah to Krakow: This past October, 10 members of Beth Shalom Progressive Congregation in Milan, founded in 2002, presented a Torah scroll to the even younger MARCHING WITH GIFTED Beit KraTORAH TO BEIT KRAKOW. kow congregation in Krakow. Starting at the Galicia Jewish Museum, the Torah was placed under a chuppah and marched, amidst crowds singing and dancing, through Krakow’s old Jewish quarter, continued on p.21

RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

SAN JUAN: Culture & Community Interview with Harry A. and Barbara Tasch Ezratty

Harry A. and Barbara Tasch Ezratty are both past presidents of Temple Beth Shalom. Harry is also author of 500 Years in the Jewish Caribbean; Barbara is a food writer and book publisher.

What excites tourists about Puerto Rico?

Dining (tablespr.com) can help you navigate 700 of the plentiful options.

The basic island food derives from a combination of the old Caribbean Taino Indian and Spanish influences. Basic foodstuffs, such as root vegetables, rice, and seafood, are available today in old-style and updated versions reflecting the influx of myriad cultures on the island’s cuisine.

The island’s public beaches are popular destinations for snorkeling, scuba diving, boatWhat are ing, swimthe Jewming, sunish sites of TEMPLE BETH SHALOM SERVICE AT THE HISTORIC FORTRESS bathing, and IN OLD SAN JUAN. interest? kayaking.

In San Fishing for Blue Marlin in the Atlantic Juan, three synagogues serve the populaTrench is a year-round sport that also tion of approximately 2,000 Jews: a attracts deep-sea fishermen worldwide for 215-family Conservative congregation, a the fall’s big-game tournament. Big draws 20-family Chabad congregation, and the are professionally designed golf courses 60-family Reform congregation, Temple and hiking in El Yunque Rainforest, Puerto Beth Shalom (TBS)—some of these famRico’s highest mountain range (3,500 ilies being descendants of Jews who emifeet). Zip-lining—hurtling above the treegrated from the States to the island in the lines from a looped line stretched from 1950s and 60s and formed the congregaone mountainside to another—has tion in 1967. All three congregations join become a hot new sport, and the Caves of together for community events and Camuy, one of the world’s three largest cooperate with the Chabad movement’s cave systems, are breathtakingly, expan“Jewish Welcome Center” in Old San sively beautiful.

Juan, which offers tours of Jewish interest.

What are the cuisine options?

What are services like?

Puerto Rico is known as “The Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.” You can enjoy American, Asian, Brazilian, Caribbean, Cuban, French, Italian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Peruvian, Puerto Rican, Spanish—and more. Tables Magazine: Puerto Rico’s Guide to Great

We’re very proud of being a “singing” congregation. Without a full-time cantor, our congregants have learned both old and new melodies for weekly and holiday services from visiting vocalists. We participate not as “audience members” but fully—very vocally—in weekly services. reform judaism

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On Friday nights, services are mostly in English and Hebrew, using Gates of Prayer; on Saturday mornings, services are mainly in Spanish and Hebrew, utilizing a Spanish/Hebrew prayer book. This meets the whole congregation’s needs— the majority of whom are English-speakers and approximately 30% for whom Spanish is their first language. Fifteen years ago, TBS was all English-speaking, but as trained locals began to replace stateside middle-management personnel in island jobs and the resident Puerto Ricans started exploring Judaism, a number of Spanish speakers converted and found their Jewish home here. Many of these new Jews-by-choice came from anusim, families who knew or suspected their forbearers included secret Jews. To this day, visiting rabbis offer training to them, and we hope more anusim will join us.

The TBS attire is very casual (except no shorts or beach clothes are allowed).

Although we began as an almost Classical Reform congregation, we have moved towards traditionalism in ritual observance; today most men wear kippot, and prayer shawls are prevalent. Part-time visiting rabbis, who stay for one or more months during the winter season, represent varying degrees of tradition on the bimah, all of which are welcomed.

Do you have unique celebrations?

Taschlich services are held on the Caribbean beach, two blocks from TBS— often surprising bathing-suit clad tourists.

Join us for weekly services. You’ll not only meet our friendly members, but people from other island congregations, cruise ship passengers, businesspeople staying at nearby hotels, and local university students—and become part of Reform Judaism’s family in sunny San Juan.

Rainforest Photo: Massjayhawk; Temple Beth Shalom Photo: A lan Hirsch

Greetings from El Yunque Rainforest

GLOBAL NEWS from p.19 and to three synagogues before reaching the High Synagogue, where it was formally presented to Beit Krakow.

Spain

~& ~

Barcelona’s Beit Din: In June 2011, 30 people (24 adults and six children ages 4–12) were converted or “welcomed back” to Judaism at a Shabbat morning service in Barcelona.

It all started when the news got out that Rosina Levy of Bet Shalom of Barcelona would be presenting its candidates to the World Union for Progressive Judaism’s European Region Beit Din (rabbinic court). Then, other Jewish communities throughout Spain asked to send their own candidates too—some of them traveling hundreds of kilometers to the only Beit Din that would help them achieve their dream of becoming Jewish.

Having studied with local teachers for at least a year before the Beit Din, the participants demonstrated proficiency in Jewish history, customs, religious festivals, and life-cycle events; the men also presented a certificate of circumcision, as required

by Jewish law and in accordance with European custom. Looking ahead, many of the newly initiated adult Jews-by-choice are already planning for their bar/bat mitzvahs.

“This conversion program not only propelled Bet Shalom onto the front lines of Progressive Judaism in Spain,” says Dr. Rifat Sonsino, who served as officiating rabbi, “but is now a model for other small congregations, which have learned what can be accomplished with enthusiasm, dedication, and the support of the European Region of the WUPJ. This made me really proud.”

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Travels in American Jewish History A Study Mission to Historic Philadelphia, PA

May 1-5, 2013

On May 1-5, 2013, the AJA will lead a group to Philadelphia, PA to study its rich Jewish history. Participants will have the opportunity for interactive learning while touring sites such as the National Museum of American Jewish History, the Rosenbach Library plus the historic congregations of Philadelphia. Featured scholars include Dr. Jonathan D. Sarna, Dr. Lance J. Sussman and Dr. Gary P. Zola.

For more information, please contact Lisa Frankel, Director of Programs for the AJA, by e-mail: lfrankel@huc.edu, phone: 513-487-3218 or visit our website: AmericanJewishArchives.org.

Reserve your place on the trip!

continued on p.23 reform judaism

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RJ INSIDER’S GUIDE

RIO DE JANEIRO: Culture & Community Interview with Raul Cesar Gottlieb

Greetings from Copacabana Beach What are your top travel tips?

Pick up my favorite guide, How to Be a Carioca by Priscilla Goslin, a small, delightful book that captures the soul of Rio de Janeiro.

Also, be careful traveling. Avoid carWhat excites tourists about Rio? rying passports and valuables with you.

Brazil is a very welcoming country.

Choose popular destinations such as Pão Be ready de Açucar to be sur(Sugar rounded Loaf by smilcable ing people car), 24/7, to Corcodrink vado (a heavenly mountain “caipirwith a inhas” (a magnifistrong cent alcoholic view), beverage Ipanema made of (a popular KABBALAT SHABBAT AT ASSOCIAÇÃO RELIGIOSA ISRAELITA. lemon, beach), sugar, and the sugar cane alcohol called Copacabana (another popular beach), “cachaça”), and to relax in the sun. and Jardim Botânico (a botanical garden Rio’s south zone, nestled between with a large collection of tropical plants). the Serra do Mar mountains and the A stroll in the historic downtown on a Atlantic Ocean, offers spectacular weekend is also a good option. views, both from the mountaintop down and from the beach up.

What is Jewish life like in Rio? A must is February’s Carnival parade, In Brazil, the Jews are a small minorwhich is too exciting to be described in ity—0.05% of 195 million people. Withwords; please YouTube it and come. And in Rio, 30,000 Jews are well integrated go to a soccer game; when you sit in the among the 12 million “cariocas” (as those middle of the torcidas (team supporters), born in Rio de Janeiro call themselves). you’ll feel a part of our lively rituals.

Our Jewish community is quite active and diverse. There are 20 synagogues: one What are some culinary delights?

Reform, one Conservative, and various Rio is famous for all-you-can-eat streams of Orthodoxy. We also have three Churrascarias (barbeque restaurants), big Jewish day schools (two pluralist and where dozens of different kinds of meat one Orthodox) as well as welfare, cultural, are served, along with a sumptuous burial, women’s, Zionist, and social orgaassortment of side dishes, including all nizations—about 80 institutions in all! kind of salads, fish, and cheese.

In Rio, the biggest congregation is reform judaism

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Reform, our own 900-family Associação Religiosa Israelita (ARI). Founded by German Jews in 1942, it now attracts Jews of all kinds drawn to modernity, egalitarianism, and the balancing of spirituality and rationalism. The congregation is always bustling with religious, cultural, and social activities.

What are Shabbat services like?

Before the service, almost every worshiper joins in the festive meeting we call hora do cafezinho (“little coffee time”), talking about the week and enjoying the company of friends.

Now, imagine yourself in our main sanctuary, built in the shape of a desert tent, with two large stained glass lateral walls representing the openness of Judaism. Most Friday nights the space is filled with around 500 persons, members and non-members alike, attracted by the challenging intellectual messages that emanate from our pulpit, by the beautiful music, and by a genuinely friendly ambience. Our rabbis—Rabbi Sergio R. Margulies, a Brazilian who belonged to ARI as a child, and Rabbi Dario E. Bialer of Argentina—follow a long tradition (that begun with Rabbi Henrique Lemle, our German founding rabbi) of bringing to the fore the main questions and concerns of contemporary Jews. And whenever Israel is threatened or celebrated, ARI serves as the center of activity for Brazil’s strongly Zionist Jewish community.

Religious services are almost all in Hebrew, with very little Portuguese.

Because Brazil is the only Latin American country where Portuguese and not Spanish is spoken, ARI uses a homemade siddur in Hebrew and Portuguese for Kabbalat Shabbat, and prayer books edited by the liberal

Copacabana Beach Photo: Marchello 74 / Dreamstime.com

Raul Cesar Gottlieb is vice president of WUPJ Latinamerica, board member of ARI—Associação Religiosa Israelita of Rio de Janeiro, and editor director of Devarim Magazine.

congregation of São Paulo for all other services.

Kippot (head coverings) and tallitim (prayer shawls) are mandatory for men—a custom dating back to our congregation’s German roots. In European Reform Judaism, the wearing of talitot and kippot by men has always been compulsory; American congregations began to abandon this practice in the 1890s. That said, as we are an egalitarian community, kippot and tallitim may be worn by women as well. Women participate equally in all ways. Some years ago we had a female rabbi, Rabbi Sandra Kochman, the first woman to serve as a community rabbi in Brazil.

What is the worship music like?

Our two full-time chazanim (cantors)—Oren Boljover of Argentina and Andre Nudelman, who has also been a member of the community since his youth—conduct the musical prayers, accompanied by an electronic organ.

The music includes many compositions by Louis Lewandowski and other 19th century German composers—a

Budapest

continued from page 17 etrog as passersby watch with interest.

On Simchat Torah, Rabbi Kelemen of Sim Shalom invites up to the bimah a few people who have had an especially happy or sad year to recite blessings, and thereby feel supported by the community. Later, everybody dances with the Torah to Cantor Budai’s music—the young children dancing with the community’s “children’s Torahs,” miniature scrolls. At Bet Orim, after dancing, the whole community stands around the Torah as many worshipers participate in turning the scroll back to the beginning—a community-bonding ritual.

What challenges does the Budapest Progressive Jewish community face?

In 2010 the new Hungarian government enacted hundreds of new laws, one of which abolished the religious status of hundreds of congregations, including Budapest’s two Progressive communities. The financial consequences have

reflection of our founders’ origins— along with modern and participatory music, including a few pieces of jazz and just a touch of Brazilian and South American music.

What else is unique about ARI?

ARI holds a daily minyan every evening, seven days a week, which provides a space for the community to recite Kaddish and to pray at the end of the business day.

On the High Holy Days, our services draw more than 3,000 Jews—a remarkable feat for a congregation of 900 and a Jewish community of 30,000. Other congregations are overflowing as well. This says a lot about how Brazilian Jews feel about being part of a religious community; even the least observant of them will be in a synagogue on Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur.

What are ARI’s other priorities?

On the cultural level, ARI publishes Devarim, a high-standard magazine aimed to strengthen Reform awareness in Brazil, and to dispel the awkward notion that Reform congregations “are like been significant: Hungarian taxpayers are allowed to donate 1% of their income tax to a religious organization, but now that Bet Orim and Sim Shalom have lost their “religious organization” label (becoming “associations”), a substantial part of their income has been lost. To try to stay financially afloat, Bet Orim is conducting fund-raising events and has introduced membership fees, and Sim Shalom has increased dues.

Both have applied for grants.

While it may not easy to be a Progressive Jew in Hungary, our community is heartened by our relationship with Jews worldwide. At Bet Orim, our rabbi, cantor, and quite a few members speak English, French, and German. We are happy to conduct multilingual services and very much enjoy talking to visitors from abroad.

So, the next time you are in Europe, I hope you will come and meet us! Please, if possible, contact Rabbi Gary BrettonGranatoor at the World Union for Progressive Judaism in advance (see “You’re Never Alone When You Say You’re a Jew” on page 5 for instructions) so that we can offer you proper hospitality. reform judaism

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churches.” We print some 5,000 copies three times a year and distribute them for free all over Brazil.

We also emphasize social awareness and activism. Recognizing that persons with special needs are productive and creative human beings, we’ve created a space inside the synagogue building for them to use daily, mostly for crafts— instead of seeing them relegated to an almost invisble parallel world. Our youth movement, Chazit Hanoar, holds ongoing teaching and recreational programs with children in Rio’s disadvantaged communities, helping them to organize themselves as a youth movement, which raises their self-esteem.

The Social Action committee collects needed goods (medicines, food, clothes, etc.); supports “Ballet Santa Teresa,” a ballet school for disadvantaged youth; and helps hire teachers for the supplementary education necessary to prepare students for acceptance into colleges, as the level of teaching in public schools is woefully inadequate.

Please come and see all we do at ARI! You will be very welcome.

GLOBAL NEWS from p.21

United Kingdom

Reform Jew Is the UK Ambassador to Israel: Matthew Gould, who attends services at the Reform Movement’s West London Synagogue, became the UK’s ambassador to Israel MATTHEW GOULD in October 2010. He is the first Jew to hold the post.

First Trained Reform Cantor in Britain: When London’s Finchley Reform Synagogue (FRS) inducted Cantor Zöe Jacobs on November 14, 2009, she became the first fully-trained cantor to ZÖE JACOBS serve a Reform congregation in Britain. Jacobs grew up at FRS and was ordained at HUC-JIR in New York.

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