VOLUME 7 ISSUE 5
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MAGAZINE ASIA SEPTEMBER/ OCTOBER 2016
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
CITY AT A GLANCE A contrast of old and new in Lima
FIND YOUR PERFECT ISLAND
GREAT ESCAPE
AUSTRIAN ALPS
X GREAT ESCAPE AUSTRIAN ALPS X YOGI’S INDIA X NEPAL
Beauty shaped by nature and human hands
Find your
perfect Island FROM GREECE G TO SOUTHEAST SOUTH ASIA, THE INDIAN OCEAN AND THE FLORIDA KEYS
A PUBLICATION OF
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MCI (P) 079/08/2016, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909)
6 MINI GUIDES LONDON X BRUSSELS X GOTHENBURG X BARCELONA X NORWAY X WASHINGTON DC
EDITOR’S LETTER
MELISSA LORR LORRAINE RRA AINE CHUA CHUA, ASSOCIATE EDITOR
This month...
… beauty abounds in the Austrian Alps (see our Great Escape, p41). From caves sculpted from ice and rock, to a town so captivating it’s been reproduced entirely in a different FRXQWU\ WKLV VWXQQLQJ ODQGVFDSH LV oOOHG ZLWK myriad wonders, both natural and humanmade. We also present 15 islands to cover all tastes, from cultural breaks to castaway fantasies, whether you seek tranquil seclusion or a trendy destination (p56). This issue, we follow our freelance contributors as they delve into the cradle of yoga in India (p70) and give us a glimpse into the abundant wildlife that roam the hidden hills of the Himalayas (p76) – both destinations are well within our radius and less daunting than you may think.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015
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Win! SE P TE MB ER / O CTO BER 20 1 6
A 2-NIGHTS’ STAY* AT THE TUNE HOTEL DOWNTOWN KL FOR 2
Turn to p99
In this issue... P OSTC A R DS
Your travel photos and stories 8 Marrakesh at sunset and more images from around the world
Watch the sunset from the likeliest site for the legend of Atlantis p56
GLOBE TROTTER
The latest travel news and discoveries 12 The best places in Asia to visit this year 16 Get your safari game face on 20 Celebrate the anniversary of an iconic theme park
E ASY T R IPS
Short breaks you can take right now 30 Partake in South Korea’s Thanksgiving celebrations 31 Gorge yourself on gourmet in Bangkok 31 Soak in Shikoku’s autumn atmosphere 32 Party your nights away in Singapore 33 Critique some art in Sydney
C I TY AT A G LANCE
A low-down of the best on offer 34 Lima is all sweeping ocean views, pre-Columbian temple ruins, and an emerging force as a culinary powerhouse
GRE AT E SCAPE
Your next big trip mapped out 41 The Austrian Alps deliver beauty both natural and shaped by human hands
F E AT U RE S
More ideas for your bucket-list 56 Which island is right for you? Find the perfect match from our list of 15 70 India is an assault on the senses that will leave you reflecting on who you are and your place in the world 76 Trek Nepal’s Manaslu Circuit for an experience off the beaten track – literally 80 Extraordinary places to stay: Eco hotels
M IN I GU IDES
Themed guides to take with you 87 London’s best art collections 89 Travel cheap as chips in Brussels 91 Gothenburg’s weekend attractions 93 Barcelona’s shopping stand-outs 95 Nature and culture in Norway’s fjords 97 Go museum-mad in Washington DC 2
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
Be part of one of Asia’s pioneering music events p29
In which country can you find ‘The World of the Ice Giants’? p41
DESTINATION INDEX
PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHELE FALZONE, OLIVER BERRY, CARLOS IBARRA, EDM KEVIN, NAJIAH RAMLEE, ANDBEYOND
Where can you find the perfect mix of history, culture and gastronomy? p34
Top picks for the newest safari stays in Africa p16
What does it take to go on a yogi retreat to India? p70 Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings Sights
Tours
Drinking
Beaches
Festivals
Entertainment
Activities
Sleeping
Courses
Eating
Shopping Information & Transport
All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated.
Africa Australia Sydney Austria Brussels Belgium Canada Chile China Hong Kong Shanghai Croatia Denmark England London Estonia France Greece India Indonesia Japan Kyoto Shikoku Tokyo Philippines Boracay Madagascar Malaysia Ipoh Nepal Norway Peru Lima Saudi Arabia Scotland Singapore South Korea Spain St Vincent & the Grenadines Sweden Taiwan Thailand Bangkok USA Vietnam
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
p16 p69 p33 p41 p89 p64 p59 p12 p12 p60 p68 p68 p87 p63 p58 p56 p12, p70 p12, p61 p12 p31 p20 p67 p62 p12 p76 p95 p34 p15 p61 p32 p12, p30 p93 p69 p91 p12 p12 p31 p66, p97 p12
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SLIDING THROUGH OUR LION CITY
Subscription enquiries subscribe@media-group.com.sg Advertising enquiries sales@regentmedia.sg Editorial enquires lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg General enquiries Regent Media Pte Ltd 20 Bedok South Road, Singapore 469277 ASIA TEAM Managing editor Ben Poon Associate editor Melissa Lorraine Chua Senior writers Raewyn Koh / Jonathan Gan Writer Josmin Ong Creative director Eric Wong Art director Cally Han / Loh Junlong Senior marketing manager Tasmin Chua Marketing executives Karlyn Ho / Rachel Tan / Sharyl Yeo Finance executive Julie Khong Regional circulation manager Kelvin Poon Business directors Marie Yeo / Thomas Leow / Kelly Koh Business managers Alice Ng / Marina Chong/ Joan Chua MALAYSIA TEAM Sales and marketing director Jessly Pak Business director David Choo Business manager Carmen Leow Business executive Toh Kah Yin Customer service executive Nurul Hanizah UK MAGAZINE Editor Peter Grunert LONELY PLANET TEAM Director of Magazines Sue Coffin Foreign Rights Joe Revill MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES Hong Kong/ Indonesia/ Macau/ Thailand Alice Ng alice@regentmedia.sg Abu Dhabi/ China/ Dubai/ Turkey/ Australia/ Japan/ South Korea/ Taiwan Marie Yeo marie@regentmedia.sg DISTRIBUTORS Singapore Pansing Distribution Pte Ltd Malaysia MPH Distributors Sdn Bhd Hong Kong Times Publishing (HK) Ltd Thailand Asia Books Co., Ltd Lonely Planet Magazine Asia MCI (P) 079/08/2016, ISSN 2010-0825, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909), is published bi-monthly by Regent Media Pte Ltd under licence from Lonely Planet Global,Inc (part of the Lonely Planet Group). The words “Lonely Planet” and the Lonely Planet symbol are trademarks of Lonely Planet Global,Inc. © Lonely Planet Global,Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. No part of this publication is to be reproduced, stored, transmitted, digitally or otherwise, without the prior consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is accurate at time of printing. Changes may have occurred since this magazine went to print. Regent Media Pte Ltd and its editors will not be held liable for any damages, loss, injury or inconvenience, arising in connection with the contents of the magazine. Regent Media Pte Ltd will not accept responsibility for unsolicited contributions. Printer: KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd (197801823M) Lonely Planet is distributed in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand and Taiwan.
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Persatuan Penerbit Majalah, Malaysia Magazine Publishers Association, Malaysia
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
GET WET AND WILD WITH SLIDE THE CITY SINGAPORE We’ve all had our fair share of fun and entertainment through arcades, theme parks, water parks and swimming pools with in-built slides for added adrenaline. We’ve even had an urban pop-up beach with a 5-storey tall water slide this year but if you think that is the best it could get, think again! Coming to you this November, the global Slide the City event will finally be in sunny island Singapore! With over 130 successful events held in the United States, we are excited to be part of the Asia tour. If safety is your concern, fret not! The slides are made of vinyl and will be transported here from the United States, and are padded with extra cushion for improved comfort. Are you at least 1.07m tall? If so, then slap on your sunscreen and grab your best swimsuits as you speed down the massive three-lane 1,000ft slide for a family fun day in the sun. Accompanying the main highlight of the Slide will also be local food & beverages vendors, LIVE music and other carnival activities to make this a once-in-alifetime festival. The Singapore edition of Slide the City will take place from 25 to 27 November 2016, and is proudly organised by Heroes, an event management firm that aims to make a difference in society by supporting charities and causes close to their hearts by rallying the help of everyday people within our community (www.facebook. com/slidethecitysingapore; heroes. com.sg).
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COMING NEXT ISSUE
HEART OF SPAIN A world away from the busy coastlines of Andalucía and Catalonia, a journey into central Spain will take in sleepy villages where few tourists venture, crumbling Roman ruins and storied university towns, and – at the heart of it all – the brilliant and boisterous capital Madrid.
Fiji’s sun-soaked islands herald endless summer days – and nights Antarctica’s penguins Resorts to put on your bucket list Unique safaris in under-the-radar Zimbabwe
LAGUNA HOLIDAY CLUB PHUKET RESORT IS CENTRALLY LOCATED AMID THE TROPICAL SURROUNDS OF LAGUNA PHUKET OVERLOOKING THE GOLF CLUB’S SCENIC FAIRWAYS.
Special Offer: Golf Package 4 Days 3 Nights * 3 nights stay up to 2 adults in Junior Suite and 1-Bedroom Suite or up to 4 adults in 2-Bedroom Suite * Free daily breakfast up to 2 adults for Junior Suite and 1-Bedroom Suite or up to 4 adults for 2-Bedroom Suite, serve at Seedlings Restaurant * One (1) round of golf 18 holes up to 2 persons for Junior Suite or 1-Bedroom Suite, or up to 4 persons for 2-Bedroom Suite at Laguna Phuket Golf course, excluded Caddy & Golf Cart fees * A round trip Phuket International Airport by private transfer * Free shuttle bus between hotel & golf course * Welcome drink upon arrival * Free Wifi Internet * Free access Kids Club & Fitness Centre with unlimited use of Swimming Pool and Water Slide * Enjoy “Kids on Us” by complimentary set up sofa bed & daily breakfast for max. 2 children, ages below 12 years old required 1
Cont ac t Us: Email : reser vation@lagunaholidayclub.com Te l : + 6 6 (0 ) 7 6 2 7 1 8 8 8 w w w.lagunaholidayclubresor t.co m
Postcards WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN
Djemaa el-Fna, in Marrakesh’s medina quarter, has been an important trading centre since the 11th century
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
POSTCARDS Send your pictures and tell us the stories behind them: email lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg
MARRAKESH, MOROCCO
Square meals We spent most of our time in Morocco camping in remote areas like Jebel Saghro and Jebel Toubkal. The old square, Djemaa el-Fna, in Marrakesh had such an allure for us though, with its throngs of people and array of stalls. On this evening, we went for dinner at one of the many rooftop terraces. We got there just before sunset and then the sky started turning incredible colours. The mosque plays a major role in Moroccan life and I found it perfect that it towered above the square with such a magniďŹ cent sunset behind. We sat down to a lovely tagine dinner and fully enjoyed the beauty before us. We had an amazing time in Morocco. It is a place like no other.
Marvin Suria, from Colorado, USA, spent three weeks in Morocco
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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POSTCARDS
MOGIŁA, POLAND
Divine art I decided to go to Mogiła, about 15 minutes from my home, to shoot the abbey there. It was a rainy day so I decided to head inside. It was the right decision, as the interior was so calm. Even better, it gave me perfect conditions for taking pictures. I like this shot very much because of the peaceful feel that comes out of it. The abbey itself is quite far from the usual tourist routes, which makes it authentic and unspoiled. And this is what I love about this picture.
Mogiła Abbey, a Cistercian monastery, was established in 1222, and soon after ransacked by the Mongols in 1241
Paweł Litwiński is a lawyer and lives in Kraków, Poland
BLUE LAGOON, BOLIVIA
Tickled pink We had taken a tour around Salar de Uyuni, which I now count as one of my favourite trips. There were so many unique and surreal things to see around every corner. We encountered the Blue Lagoon on our second day while touring through Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. There to greet us were hundreds of flamingoes – not something one would expect to see at an altitude of almost 4,000 metres, high in the Andean mountains. It was a photography lover’s dream!
Greg Matthews, from Vancouver, Canada, spent three days in Salar de Uyuni 10
Three flamingo species – the Andean, Chilean and James’s flamingoes – can be found across South America’s highlands
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
Globetrotter
PHOTOGRAPH: XTHIERRY GRUN – AERO/ALAMY
A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES
Paint the town…
AN ECCENTRIC SATELLITE of an already unconventional city, Burano greets visitors from Venice with what feels like every colour in the spectrum. Day-trippers are bound by waterbus hours, but those who wish to see this lagoon island at quieter times can now stay in a scattering of converted houses in town, once home to fishermen and lacemakers. This is the latest venture from Venissa, a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms on next-door Mazzorbo, linked by footbridge to Burano (from US$158; venissa.it). SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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GLOBETROTTER
Lonely Planet writers have explored the planet’s biggest continent and cherry-picked the best spots to visit in the next 12 months, from electrifying cities to castaway islands. For more travel ideas across the region, visit lonelyplanet.com/best-in-asia.
Perfect powder snow put Japan’s northernmost island on the map, but also blinded visitors to the year-round charms of its wild, mountainous landscape, from alpine villages to hidden onsen (hot springs). Hokkaido has become even more accessible, thanks to the new bullet train linking its southern port city, Hakodate, to Tokyo – the line will eventually extend to dynamic Sapporo, host of next year’s Asian Winter Games.
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2. SHANGHAI, CHINA
China’s biggest city feels like the centre of the universe right now – join its 24 million-odd residents for ballroom dancing in parks, delicate brews in old teahouses, or sky-high cocktails amid its forest of neon-lit skyscrapers. This year sees a new addition to the skyline: the Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building.
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6. IPOH, MALAYSIA
The otherworldly concept hotel Sekeping Kong Heng has been central to the renaissance of Ipoh, Malaysia’s lesser-known food capital. Art-cafés like Burps & Giggles (pictured), Roquette and Everyday Lifeshop have cropped up nearby, among elegant colonial buildings.
7. PEMUTERAN, INDONESIA
On Bali’s northwest coast, mellow Pemuteran village remains under the radar, despite easy access to Menjangan Island, home to a stunning coral wall, plus the Underwater Temple Garden (pictured). Visit for its beaches, art-filled resorts and inventive new restaurants.
3. JEONJU, SOUTH KOREA
8. TRANG ISLANDS, THAILAND
4. CON DAO ISLANDS, VIETNAM
9. MEGHALAYA, INDIA
Birthplace of a definitive dish in Korean cuisine – bibimbap, rice topped with mixed bean sprouts, beef, chilli paste and more (pictured) – this city is home to a fast-evolving street food scene as well as one of the country’s bestpreserved groupings of hanok (traditional houses).
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Sham Shui Po. There are also improved transport links to natural heritage sites on the outskirts.
Better flight connections from Ho Chi Minh City confirm this small archipelago, for decades the site of a brutal penal colony, as a rising star on the Asian beach scene. The islands offer a national park, a coastline studded with white-sand coves and Vietnam’s best diving.
5. HONG KONG, CHINA
The city is experiencing renewed dynamism 20 years after its return to China: top chefs are turning to local produce for inspiration and artists are brightening old neighbourhoods like
Much less crowded than Andaman coast neighbours like Phuket and Ko Phi-Phi, the island beaches of Trang province glisten amid shards of jungle-topped karst. With everimproving transport links, visit now while development is still limited to beachfront bungalows.
This limestone plateau separating the lowlands of Assam from the plains of Bangladesh is India’s lost world, but won’t remain so for long – hike, climb and raft through a landscape filled with raging waterfalls, tribal outposts and bridges woven from the living roots of jungle trees.
10. TAITUNG, TAIWAN
Bounded by green hills and the turquoise Pacific, this county is the place to come for a party – from summer’s International Balloon Fiesta to the unique local take on Chinese New Year, which sees a near-naked volunteer pelted with firecrackers.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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PHOTOGRAPHS: ALBERT PHOTO/GETTY, CHERYL CHAN, AMOS CHAPPLE/GETTY, PHILIP LEE HARVEY, PHOTO COURTESY KOREA TOURISM ORG – VISITKOREA.OR.KR, SUNPHOL SORAKUL/ GETTY IMAGES, STUDIOLOCO/SHUTTERSTOCK, TONNAJA.COM/GETTY IMAGES, TOP PHOTO CORPORATION/ALAMY, WATERFRAME/ALAMY
1. HOKKAIDO, JAPAN
GLOBETROTTER NEW HOTEL TREND BIG CHAINS Hilton and Marriott are among the hospitality monoliths re-imagining their offering for the so-called Millennial generation – those born between 1980 and 1999. You won’t find the familar logos that have dominated city skylines for decades on these new properties – each trades under a separate name picked to appeal to a younger market. Hilton’s budget brand Tru is still in development but promises playful lobbies, build your own breakfasts and rooms with platform beds (trubyhilton.com). Shangri-La’s Hotel Jen already has 10 properties across the Asia Pacific region (1, the pool at Hotel Jen Puteri Harbour, Johor; hoteljen.com), while Marriott’s price-conscious Hotel Moxy is focused on US and European cities, with eye-catching designs and fun tech such as photobooth elevators (2 & 3, Moxy Milan Malpensa; moxy-hotels.marriott.com). Taj Hotels’ Vivanta offers high-style in locations with easy access to adventure, from private dining in Kerala (4) to swimming over coral reefs in the Maldives (5; vivanta.tajhotels.com). 1
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THE PILOT
Those who’ve struggled to make themselves understood abroad (i.e. everyone) will welcome Waverly Labs’ translating earpieces. They use an app to allow two users speaking different languages to converse in real time (available for pre-order US$183; waverlylabs.com). 14
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
LOVE HATE
SNEAKAIRS EasyJet has developed a prototype ‘smart shoe’ that prot uses us smartphones’ GPS to n navigate cities and direct wea wearers to turn left or right with small vibrating sensors. The airline hopes to sell the shoes onboard. Preferring not to be guided by our footwear on our city breaks, we’ll be giving these sneakers a miss. givin
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAIDEEP OBEROI, KIRKLANDPHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
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GLOBETROTTER
Arabian nights RUMOURS ABOUND THAT Saudi Arabia will soon start issuing tourist visas. ‘For a long time, this has been one of the hardest places on the planet for tourists to visit,’ says Helen Elfer, Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Middle East. ‘If it does open up, there is a world of sights and experiences to be explored there, from Mada’in Saleh, an ancient Nabatean site known as “the other Petra” (pictured) to diving over pristine Red Sea coral reefs. Perhaps most intriguingly, it would mean the chance to engage with people, customs and traditions from a largely closed-off culture.’ Tour operator Wild Frontiers plans to send groups to the country from 2017 (wildfrontierstravel.com).
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW 1 Men and women are only allowed to travel together if they are married or form part of a group. 2 Women must wear an abaya (full-length robe). Though legally a headscarf is not compulsory, it’s a good idea to carry one in case religious police insistyou wear one. For men, dressing modestly is also essential. Shorts are considered a no-no, but if worn they should cover the knee. 3 Saudi Arabians offer their prayers to Allah five times a day and all shops, restaurants, cafés and other businesses remain closed during prayer times. 4 Alcohol is completely forbidden.
Lonely Planet’s newlyupdated Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula guide is out 1 September (US$34.99). Download individual chapters at lonelyplanet.com.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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A SLEW OF NEW SAFARIS AND LODGES HAVE LAUNCHED IN AFRICA, GETTING YOU CLOSER TO THE CONTINENT’S WILDLIFE. HERE, WE PICK OUR FAVOURITES
lks arted guided wa &Beyond has st dum Xu e th with local SanapeLoopdglee atin Botswana. Okavango Delt ay ambles, the guides On the half-dtraditional hunting and demonstrate s, as well as insights survival skilla and fauna passed en into the flortion, guests can route. In addidelta’s waterways in a explore the o boat and go on a wooden mokor ri in the company of horseback safad ranger. an experience of meals and inclusive From US$769pppn om d.c on ey db activities; an
Basecamp Exp first camp in lothree rMopaaensaed its National Reserve in 1998i Mara the aim of helping to , with preserve its unique landscapes, wild and people. New to itlisfe of fe this year is the Walking ring the Maasai tour. Guests with spend the da wildlife and ytrspekotkitingngac the savannah of the Nabross Conservancy, a private oisho concession, in Maasai guides,thaned conimghpatsny of under canvas ree different caminpsth . Three
nights from US$1,27 2pp inclusive; basecampexplorer. com
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
GLOBETROTTER
Good-value is the name of the game luatxuMryhond Lodge in a private reseoro Game Limpopo, South Africa rve in individual suites have . The viewing decks and fir their own with access to the po eplaces, restaurant of the maiol and The reserve is home n lodge. five, and there’s a go to the big of seeing elephants, baod chance warthogs at the lodge’ boons and waterhole, viewed fros unique underground hi m a de. From US$243pp pn
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDBEYOND, NINARA/FLICKR, NIMALI TARANGIRE, WILDERNESS SAFARIS
mhondoro.com
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ncessioen tinhe o c e t a iv r p On a rn Tanzania ar ew northented suites of n . six te Nimali Tarangire lodge ants frequentlyond Elephr nearby; and bey y gathe amp you can enjo the c balloon safaris ers. hot-airndlelit bush dinn; and ca $605pppn inclusive From US ica.com nimaliafr
Set on the banks of the Zambezi River in the Mana Pools National Park, with the mountains of Zambia rising beyond, Ruckomechi and Little Ruckomechi are two new camps from Wilderness Safaris. River cruises, as well as game drives, are part of the appeal here – as well as the cchance ha to fall asleep to the sound of hippos hhonking on in the nearby waters. From F US$664pppn inclusive; wilderness-safaris.com
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
Natural Jewels of
Sri Lanka Through the Cities
Heritage Hour
Sri Lanka is a small but intriguing island country that boasts up to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites despite its land area of 65,610sqkm. The remains of these ancient and medieval civilisations stood the test of time and thrived remarkably against world-class attractions. One of which is Galle, the country’s most historically interesting town with its strong scent of spices and wonderful collection of Dutch-colonial buildings. Aside from being a city of trade, both past and present, it is also expanding its cultural arts scene with a burst of new boutique shops, cafes and hotels owned by local and foreign artists, writers, photographers, designers and poets. Colombo, Sri Lanka’s ocean city and capital, is a bustling metropolitan city with plenty of beaches that have transformed into a worthy destination in recent years. Drive through Cinnamon Gardens, the country’s swankiest address, with elegantly tree-lined streets and posh mansions of the wealthy and powerful. It is hard to imagine the cinnamon plantations that covered it a century ago but it was named rightfully so. The centre piece of the area is a 50-acre campus, University of Colombo. MICE planners may consider The Bandaranaike Memorial International Conference Hall (BMIC), the first purpose built convention center in the country. Shopaholics will be thrilled to enter ODEL, one of the best shopping destinations within the country for the latest trends and Barefoot, the city’s hippest hang-out with plenty of bespoke products within the shops, gallery, café and bars.
The massive Portuguese and Dutch Fort in Galle, however, was crowned the best-preserved sea fort in South Asia as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Feast your eyes upon a superb blend of architecture with fortifications that resemble those in the coastal areas of Portugal and find yourself captivated by the working community within this district – administrative offices, courts, export companies and lots of positive buzz of energy in the air. To the south of the island, lies Colombo fort, one that used to be surrounded by the sea and a moat on the landward side. Today, it has transformed into a curious mix of brash modern structure including the World Trade Centre, tallest building in Sri Lanka, and red-brick institutions from the colonial-era. A good landmark would be the clock tower at the junction of Chatham St and Janadhipathi Mawatha (once named Queen St), which was originally a lighthouse built in 1857. From Colombo, drive four hours to Sigiriya, one of the most valuable historical monuments of Sri Lanka. This dramatic central plain has an iconic rocky outcrop that serves as the single most dramatic sight in Sri Lanka. The rock plateau was formed from magma of an extinct volcano, 200m higher than the surrounding jungles. Its view astonishes all visitors with the unique harmony between nature and human imagination. The fortress complex includes remnants of a ruined palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. Pack your hiking shoes because this excursion will take you approximately three to four hours uphill and down.
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WORDS: JOSMIN ONG PHOTOGRAPHS: FLICKR - ARIAN ZWEGERS, FLICKR - JÉRÔME DECQ
Uncover this hidden gem in the form of a quick developing country that is home to a multitude of cultural experiences, timeless ruins, welcoming people and most importantly – wildlife treasures such as whales and dolphins
Wildlife Wonderment
Start off your wildlife experience with one of the most popular attraction of all times – whale and dolphin watching tours. Mirissa is one of the best places to do this as you are guaranteed an opportunity to see the blue whales, bryde’s whales, sperm whales, fin whales and occasionally, the famous killer whales (Orcinus orca). Within the warm Indian Ocean, you will also encounter common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, spinner dolphins, risso’s dolphins and striped dolphins. Other times, bluefin tuna and flying fish may be spotted. To encourage responsible travel, marine wildlife watching comes with an international set of rules and regulations for protection so do remember to adhere to them. Although you may encounter these friendly creatures all year round, the recommended season starts in November and ends in April when the oceans are warmer and calmer. On the dry lands, leopards runs the country and reign as Lords of the Jungle. In Sri Lanka, the leopard density is the highest in the world and these menacing predators prowl majestically within Yala National Park – the most visited and second largest national park in the country. The park consists of five blocks, of which only two are open to the public. Here, you will be able to see elephants ambling about, cunning leopards sliding like shadows through the undergrowth, spotted deer cautious scampering by their side and hear monkeys crash through the trees. Of course, the vast region of dry woodland and open patches of grasslands hold more animals than we know. There are also crocodiles, mongoose, wild boar and buffalo amongst many others. Imagine Jungle Book brought to life, this is it.
8-TO-GO PRIVATE TOURS fr
$585
5D4N Sri Lanka Culture Negombo Beach, Sigiriya Rock Fortress, Dambulla Cave Temple, Kandy, Temple of Tooth Relic, Tea Plantation highlands of Nuwara Eliya, Shopping time in Colombo
fr
$710
6D5N Sri Lanka Heritage Negombo Beach, Sigiriya Rock Fortress, Dambulla Cave Temple, Kandy, Temple of Tooth Relic, Tea Plantation highlands of Nuwara Eliya, The Dutch Fort of Galle, Shopping time in Colombo
fr
$1220 9D8N Sri Lanka Grand Negombo Beach, post-war Jaffna, port city of Trincomalee, Temple of Tooth Relic
PHOTOGRAPHS: FLICKR - RONALD TAGRA - SIGIRIYA, FLICKR - PATTY HO
in Kandy, Sigiriya Rock Fortress/Dambulla Cave Temple, Tea Plantation highlands of Nuwara Eliya, safari experience in Yala National Park, The Dutch Fort of Galle, Whale and Dolphin cruise tour in Marissa and shopping time in Colombo
101 Upper Cross Street #B1-23/24 People’s Park Centre Singapore 058357
HOTLINE AT 6536 3033 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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DisneySea
®
TOKYO PARK and The Year of Wishes
Celebrating 15 years of magic!
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
TEXT: RAEWYN KOH PHOTOGRAPHS: ©DISNEY, RAEWYN KOH
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he summer of 2016 marks a special occasion for Tokyo DisneySea® Park. The only Disney Park themed to the sea is celebrating its 15th anniversary since its opening on 4 September 2001. Tokyo DisneySea® Park is the second Disney Park to open in Japan and is located just next to the popular Tokyo Disneyland® Park. The two parks complement and enhance each other. Tokyo Disneyland® Park is its more traditional park, and retains classic Disney stories of fantasy, dreams and magic, while Tokyo DisneySea® Park inspires with its experiences based on ocean lore and facts focusing on adventure, romance, discovery and fun. This year’s anniversary celebration for Tokyo DisneySea® Park carries the theme of “Wishes”. During the year-long celebration, crystals of various colours symbolising the individual wishes of Mickey Mouse and the Disney Friends will decorate the park. The Crystals of Wishes is integrated into the brand new show, Crystal Wishes Journey that is presented in the waters at Mediterranean Harbor. The thrilling show of song and dance in colourful costumes ends with a vibrant display of kites flying past, pyrotechnics and the cast parading past on their boats to signify the start of new journeys for the 15th anniversary of Tokyo DisneySea® Park. Guests are also invited to collect their own Crystals of Wishes with the new interactive Crystal Compass, a special commemorative merchandise created just for the event. The wand-like device requires guests to run around the park looking for the seven Crystal Points. Collect the different colours of the Crystal Wishes and have all seven points of the Crystal Compass light up! The real magic occurs during the night time Fantasmic! show. Watch as every Crystal Compass in the audience glows and changes colours in sync to the
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time the iconic swing jazz performance has been changed since its opening in July 2006. The other show is an original story created just for the Hangar Stage in Lost River Delta. Out of Shadowland tells the story of a young, timid girl lost in a world of shadows. The dynamic scenes that uses moving live performances, vivid images and other elements will let guests experience a world unlike any seen before. Apart from the celebrations, don’t forget to check out the rest of the enchanting park! There are seven ports of call at Tokyo DisneySea® Park that make Disney magic at the sea come alive: Mediterranean Harbor, American Waterfront, Port Discovery, Lost River Delta, Arabian Coast, Marmaid Lagoon, and Mysterious Island are all different in offering a taste of the sea (and under the sea!) from the far corners of the earth. The rest of Tokyo Disney Resort® must also be visited. At Tokyo Disneyland® Park, leave the everyday world behind and enter a realm of excitement, adventure, fantasy and fun at seven distinct themed lands arranged around a central world. Be immersed in the stories of Disney classic films as characters and worlds come alive at various attractions and shows. Shuttle between parks via the Disney Resort Line monorail that circles the resort, including the official hotels and IKSPIARI, a complex of 140 shops and restaurants and a 16-theatre cinema.
DESIGNED BY FREEPIK
musical and light show that shows short clips of classic Disney movies in time to the music. Head back to the entrance of Tokyo DisneySea® Park where the fantastical ship, Wings of Wishes, is situated to hear a special message from Mickey Mouse delivered to you through the Crystal Compass as well! Of course, there are many more specialty souvenirs bearing Mickey Mouse and the Disney Friends in their 15th anniversary outfits and a motif of the Crystals of Wishes. The many restaurants at Tokyo DisneySea® Park also have curated menus for the occasion, where some dishes are served with a souvenir cup or collectible glass. Look out
for the special Duffy items and 15th anniversary wine bottle label that are exclsuive to Tokyo DisneySea® Park too. In addition to the celebration are two new shows as well. A new version of Big Band Beat debuted this summer with new music and scenes, with Mickey Mouse and Minnie Mouse proudly showing off their new costumes. This is the first
Special thanks to Japan Airlines.
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
CITY-CENTRED ART AND CULTURE 9D8N Discover Central New Zealand
MARVELLOUS NATURAL ADVENTURES 8D7N Northern Bay of New Zealand + Hobbiton It’s a wild, wild world out there – especially in the northern fringes of New Zealand. Filled with magnificent beaches, geothermal wonders and mysterious landscapes, the Northern Bay is brimming with great nature and even greater adventure. Start with a relaxing flight on Air New Zealand before heading to the iconic Bay of Plenty in Tauranga; grab a taste of the land’s bounty with lunch at the Mills Reef Winery, and gear up for a Waimarino Evening Glow Worm Kayak Tour, which will see you paddling through a moonlit cave filled with these luminescent critters. Hike the summit of Mauao or explore its base track through archaeological landmarks before unwinding with a relaxing dip in Mt Manuganui’s hot salt water pools. En route to Whakatane, explore the world of honey bees, step into the enchanting forest of Tane Mahuta, or stop to savour the fruits of many a berry farm along the way. 49km offshore is White Island, a volcano that spews vivid hues of sulphur, which can be explored through scenic flight or helicopter. A Maori Cultural Tour will have you learning all about Maori legends, history and customs, complete with traditional hangi feast. In Taupo, aquatic activities await; take an adrenaline-pumping jet boat ride down Huka Falls or go prawn fishing at Huka Prawn Park. Rotorua, a popular tourist destination, is a geothermal wonderland renowned for its therapeutic mud baths; go on a magical tree-top adventure with Rotorua Canopy Tours, visit a unique farm experience at Agrodome, or relax with an indulgent spa therapy at Polynesian Spa or Hell’s Gate. Then, of course, is the famed Matamata, the site of the Hobbiton Movie Set. Explore the remnants of the original Hobbiton village that appeared in The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit with a 2-hour guided tour. A short drive away, the sprawling Hamilton Gardens, a collection of 21 themed gardens ranging from Italian Renaissance and Tudor to the exotic Taj Mahal-inspired Char Bagh, beckons for that picture perfect shot.
After a luxurious flight on Air New Zealand, start your tour of New Zealand’s boutique cities at the international Art Deco icon of Napier, which rose to fame after a massive earthquake in 1931. Indulge in great local produce such as Manuka honey from Arataki Honey, luxurious lambskins from Classic Sheepskins, and fresh fruit from Pernel Orchard, before driving up to Te Mata Peak for a spectacular sunset view. Wellington, dubbed ‘the world’s coolest little capital’, is famed for its vibrant arts and gastronomy and quaint harbour front setting. Here, a plethora of activities await – take a cable car up to Carter Observatory to visit planetariums and multimedia galleries; join a Zest Food Tour for some of the best-tasting produce in town; visit the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa for culture galore; and visit the Weta Cave Workshop for a behind-the-scenes peek into the world of blockbuster design and effects. As dusk falls, uncover the nocturnal world of glow worms, kiwis, and other birds with the Zealandia Night Tour. Foodie adventures continue in Blenheim; taste New Zealand’s most awarded wines at Villa Maria or enjoy a sumptuous lunch with the world’s first Sauvignon Blanc in Brancott Estate. Marvel at Sir Peter Jackson’s personal collection of WWI aircraft and artefacts at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, or head down to unique Nelson to visit the World of WearableArt and Classic Cars Museum, the latter boasting one of Australasia’s largest private collection of classic cars. End off with a beautiful picnic at the Abel Tasman National Park, filled with golden beaches and sculptured granite cliffs. The park’s worldfamous track will see you hiking through ancient Maori sites to discover wild natives such as cormorants, gannets, and even fur seals as they sunbathe and swim the day away.
Scenic Travel is offering $200 off per couple + Free New Zealand Data SIM Card for both itineraries Log on to scenictravel.com.sg/newzealand or call +65 6226 3611 to find out more 22
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Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta 2016 World-class regatta to take place this November in Selangor, Malaysia
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Members of the public will be able to catch the regatta action on the following dates:
DATE 19 November 2016 21 November 2016 22 November 2016 23 November 2016 24 November 2016 25 November 2016 26 November 2016
ACTIVITY Flag-off and races from Port Klang to Pangkor Races from Pangkor to Penang Rickshaw races at Straits Quay, Tanjung Tokong, Penang Inshore races in Penang Harbour Races from Penang to Kuah, Langkawi Inshore Races at Kuah Harbour, Langkawi Final Inshore Races in Langkawi at Kuah Harbour
Registration for the 2016 RMSIR is now open and early bird prices are applicable up till 1 October 2016. For more information, please log on to www.rmsir.com 24
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WORDS: JOSMIN ONG PHOTOGRAPHY: ROYAL SELANGOR YACHT CLUB
he 27th edition of the Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta (RMSIR) 2016 returns with a stimulating and challenging race course even for experienced sailors due to its unpredictable winds, weather and tides. Running from 18 to 26 November 2016, the regatta will also include a couple of unique sightseeing spots and convivial social events to include both participants and members of the public. Flag-off begins from Port Klang to the islands of Pangkor, Penang and eventually Langkawi; with sailors vying for the topmost prestigious prize, Raja Muda Cup. The fleet will be taking the familiar course along Malaysia’s west coast, making its way to various checkpoints via the Straits of Malacca with inshore racing, awards and dinner parties as part of the agenda. Race management for this year’s RMSIR remains in the capable hands of returning Race Officer, Jerry Rollin, with Bryan Willis retaining his position as head of the International Jury. The Royal Selangor Yacht Club and the Royal Ocean Racing Club is expecting the return of Selangor Tourism as a main sponsor for the event, together with container port Westports Malaysia and Scottish whisky brand Old Pulteney. Expect to witness the top class IRC1 racers, beautiful classic cruisers with long overhangs dating back over 100 years, and live action from the skippers and crew as they tackle heavy shipping traffic and unruly weather conditions.
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Stylish
Steals
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rom July 18th onwards, travellers have another option for their stay in Nairobi, Kenya. Tune Hotel Nairobi is the latest kid on the block, costing an estimated US$29million for the 280-room facility. This establishment is strategically located in the suburb of Westlands with easy access to local business parks, city central business and Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. With strong international hospitality experience acquired, the hotel aims to promote a refreshing and rejuvenating stay within its fresh and stylish rooms. The accommodation takes up 11 floors, each offering something unique for various visitors. Rooms come in the form of double, twin, triple and family type so that there is something suitable for everyone. Each guest room
is equipped with an en-suite thermostatic power shower, in-room thermostatically controlled comfort cooling and most important, quality bed and linen for a good night’s rest. These are essentials in achieving an undisturbed sleep and, when paired with fixed elements such as a high quality of service, security and design, the hotel aims to provide the best it can within an affordable range. The rate savvy customers are the bulk spenders in the region, and hence, form up the main market potential. On the ground floor, expect to find the 164-seater Utamu Casual Dining Restaurant, serving up a wide spread of continental cuisine. Grab a quick bite within the Grab & Go Coffee Shop which offers sandwiches, salads, paninis and drinks – all available for dining in or taking out. Crowning the building are two rooftop bars that offer fantastic views over the city and countryside. Although both Kilele Rooftop Lounge and Tusker Lite Sky Bar offer drinks all day, the latter also provides live sporting telecast from around the world. The hotel is also strategically located within the hot spots in town, some of which are a mere 5km away. Electric Avenue is a quiet city street in Woodvale Grove by day, but transforms into a party haven at night with more than 30 international and local bars coming to life. Shopaholics will be pleased to pay a visit to Sarit Centre Shopping Mall, a local shopping town placed under one roof or if you have a thing for designer goods and cafés, drop by Westgate Shopping Mall for the best retail experience within East Africa. Heritage buffs will love exploring the National Museums of Kenya and MICE planners should have their eyes on the Kenya International Conference Centre, an iconic building within Nairobi’s skyline.
For more information, visit tunehotels.com/my/en/our-hotels/Nairobi 26
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WORDS: JOSMIN ONG
Enjoy serene relaxations at Tune Hotel Nairobi without breaking your bank
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HOT DEAL Stay longer for less at Velassaru Maldives. A private coral island in the sapphire Indian Ocean framed by gentle sand beaches, Velassaru Maldives sets the scene for the perfect island escape. Snag a 30% discount off the Best Available Rate from 25 July to 31 October 2016; 1 November to 22 December 2916; and 11 January to 30 April 2017. Quote ‘Velassaru Maldives’ to redeem, and enjoy discounted rates for all room categories, complimentary daily breakfast, Wi-Fi and snorkelling gear, for a minimum five nights’ stay (velassaru.com/special-offers).
NEW MENU Stunning new additions have been made to the Adrift by David Myers menu; once filled with Asian fusion tapas, it now places heavier emphasis on produce, and more specifically, their source. Heirloom tomatoes, wagyu beef and Japanese maitake mushrooms are just some of the personally handpicked gems from some 175 different suppliers around the world. Whet your appetite with the chilled California Tomato Gazpacho served with bites of cucumber jelly, creamy burrata cheese and piquant ginger strips; and the Snake River Farms Wagyu Carpaccio that uses wellmarbled premium USA wagyu beef, served with a zesty carrot ginger vinaigrette (marinabaysands.com/adrift).
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EASY TRIPS
Easy Trips including
WORDS: MELISSA LORRAINE CHUA. PHOTOGRAPH: ALIVECOVERAGE
Partake in South Korea’s Thanksgiving celebrations Gorge yourself on gourmet in Bangkok Soak in Shikoku’s autumn atmosphere Party your nights away in Singapore Critique some art in Sydney
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EASY TRIPS
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Ganggangsullae, a Korean all-women folk song and dance, is performed on the night of the brightest full moon during Chuseok
Give thanks on Chuseok Day in South Korea
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Chuseok the major representative foods are freshly harvested rice, alcohol and songpyeon (rice cakes). Traditionally, Korean women of each household would gather to handmake these half-moon shaped treats filled with sweet bean or chestnut, and it was believed that those who could make pretty songpyeon would be blessed with beautiful daughters. Today, songpyeon can be store bought, and is available in elaborate floral designs, intricately wrapped and adorned. During Chuseok, many cultural sites including Deoksugung Palace, Jongmyo Shrine and the heritage Namsangol Hanok Village will host special holiday events such as traditional games and dance performances. Palaces like the UNESCO World Heritage
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Changdeokgung Palace and Huwon, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and the Joseon Royal Tombs will offer free admission to visitors wearing a hanbok (traditional
MAKE IT HAPPEN Chuseok is held every 15th day of the eighth lunar month, or the fall equinox. This year, it falls between 14 and 16 September (Wed-Fri), which makes for a great long weekend getaway. During the holiday season, be sure to double-check the operation hours of your desired attractions as most places of business are closed at some point during Chuseok. Korean Air operates daily direct flights from both
dress). At the Korean Folk Village, visitors can delve a little deeper into the meaning of Chuseok with their re-enactment of customs and ancestral rites.
Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Seoul (koreanair.com). Public transportation within Seoul is modern and efficient; use a prepaid transit card for discounted fares on both subway and buses (eng.t-money.co.kr). Dark, sleek and deliciously handsome both inside and out, Hotel Karashy is the hot new thing on the block, just south of the river from Itaewon (from US$180 per pax per night; karashy.com).
PHOTOGRAPH: KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION
A celebration of family and harvest, Chuseok (ᆓ໐) is one of the biggest and most significant holidays in South Korea, where family members from all corners of the country will come together to share food and give thanks to their ancestors. Chuseok is the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving Day and is honoured with traditional customs and rituals encompassing dress, food and dance. On the morning of Chuseok, family members gather to perform a memorial service called Charye to honour their ancestors. Formal Charye services are only performed twice a year: during Seollal (Lunar New Year) and Chuseok. The main difference between the two is that during Seollal the major representative food is tteokguk, a rice cake soup, while during
EASY TRIPS The scenery sheds its summer palette for something warmer come autumn
Gorge yourself on gourmet in Bangkok The week-long World Gourmet Festival will see nine chefs heralding from eight countries transforming the capital of Thailand into a gastronomic destination like no other, packed with extravagant events and lavish installations, including a champagne lobby concept featuring six prestigious houses, sake and cocktail master classes, a perfume pairing event, and a spectacular Sunday Brunch to blow all other Sunday brunches out of the water. Each chef has been specially selected from this year’s list of San Pellegrino’s 50 Best Restaurants in the world. One such headliner is Chef Mauro Colagreco, founder and chef at two Michelin-starred restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France. Awarded “Chef of the Year” by the prestigious Gault & Millau restaurant guide in 2009, Colagreco has found the perfect balance between his ItalianArgentinian heritage and his world class training to create inspired dishes that reflect the beauty of sea, garden, and mountain. Another name to look out for is Ana Roš, co-owner and chef at Hiša Franko in Kobarid, Slovenia. A true one-of-a-kind chef, Roš has developed her own unique cuisine that takes inspiration from the beautiful and remote hills of the
Slovenian countryside. The flowery, herbal, yet delicate and precise nature of Roš’s cooking has made her the only woman thus far to have joined the Cook it Raw environmental and cooking initiative. She was also one of the personalities profiled in American television series Chef’s Table, currently nominated for four Emmy Awards in 2016.
MAKE IT HAPPEN The 17th annual World Gourmet Festival will be held from 19 – 25 September 2016. Reservations are essential and can be made directly through WorldGourmetFestivalAsia. com. Bookings made prior to 1 September are eligible for early bird discount. Singapore Airlines conducts multiple daily flights from Singapore to Bangkok (singaporeair.com), while AirAsia flies most frequently from Kuala Lumpur (airasia. com). The BTS Skytrain is the safest and most convenient way to get from the airport to the city centre. Host of the World Gourmet Festival, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel offers warm hospitality and luxurious comfort in the heart of this bustling capital city (from US$201 per pax per night; siam-bangkok.anantara.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: WORLD GOURMET FESTIVAL, JNTO
Another celebrity chef to look out for is Bobby Chinn – here is his rendition of seafood ceviche
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3 Breathe in the romance of autumn in Shikoku With a name that translates literally to mean “four provinces”, the four prefectures of Shikoku – Tokushima, Ehime, Kochi and Kagawa – while uniquely distinct, all offer refreshingly sweet waters, lush virgin forests, and warm hospitality. Unlike the more cosmopolitan cities in Japan that have a tendency to make you feel hemmed in or overly hassled, Shikoku’s heart beats to a mellower drum, promising historical castles and storybook gardens. Come autumn, the landscape changes hue to a brilliant palette of crimsons and ochre. The only island of Japan without any volcanoes, Shikoku’s terrain has traditionally been used to cultivate a variety of citrus fruits and wheat. Be sure to sample some of the stellar local delicacies, including the famous Sanuki udon, renowned for its bouncy bite and clean taste; tataki, flame roasted bonito steak; and local sakes that are deliciously silky and fragrant thanks to the pristine waters of the Shimanto River. One of the many highlights of Shikoku is its dedicated ‘art island’, Benesse Art Site Naoshima (benesse-artsite.jp), a heaven for modern art lovers with multiple museums and installation pieces scattered across the island. The Chichu Art Museum, Benesse House and Lee Ufan Museum all house a great selection of
MAKE IT HAPPEN Benesse Art Site Naoshima is hosting various special activities during the Setouchi Triennale 2016, with the autumn installation falling between 8 October and 6 November 6 2016. Visit setouchi-artfest.jp/ en for tickets and more information on the event. Shikoku lacks a full international airport but has four regional/domestic airports (Tokushima Airport, Takamatsu Airport, Kochi-Ryoma Airport and Matsuyama Airport). All have flights connecting to Tokyo and other major Japanese cities such as Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, and Fukuoka. Complete your Benesse Art Site Naoshima experiences with a stay at Benesse House, a museum and hotel that incorporates guest rooms and display spaces for contemporary art (from US$350 per pax per night; benesse-artsite.jp/stay). contemporary art (most of which are of the tilt-your-head-toappreciate variety), with many of these buildings designed by renowned Japanese architect Ando Tadao. The Art House Project is a particularly fascinating collection of art installations depicting different themes, from the magic of light to the beauty of time.
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EASY TRIPS A two-day, three-stage outdoor extravaganza awaits for ULTRA Singapore 2016
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Party your nights away at ULTRA Singapore
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include Above & Beyond, Alesso, Far East Movement, and DJ SNAKE. Drawing further parallels to Miami, ULTRA Singapore will be receiving the full treatment, including the immensely popular RESISTANCE concept featuring techno, deep house and the darker side of dance music. Considered one of the most spectacular music festivals in the world, ULTRA’s legendary Main Stages have played host to some of the biggest names in electronic music history. ULTRA Singapore marks the start of ULTRA Worldwide’s second Asia run this year, with the highly successful ULTRA Korea festival and sold out Road To Ultra Thailand event having
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already taken place in June. Part two will see the brand undertake six stops in Asia including Singapore, Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, Bali and
ULTRA Singapore 2016 is slated to run from 10 to 11 September. 1-day and 2-day tickets are available from US$105 and US$175 respectively, with a significant discount if purchased in a group (ultrasingapore.com/tickets). Arrive early for the best views. Changi Airport in Singapore serves more than 100 airlines flying in from some 330 cities in about 80 countries around the
the Philippines all within a two-week span – a festival first and a feat no other event organiser can lay claim to.
world. National carrier Singapore Airlines is available in 63 international destinations in 35 countries. Stay at the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel for its famed views and infinity pool – the hotel also comes with the added perk of being mere walking distance from the event, so you can skip the exasperating taxi queues (from US$574 per pax per night; marinabaysands.com).
PHOTOGRAPH: EDM KEVIN
Following its record-breaking event in 2015, ULTRA Singapore 2016 is back with a vengeance – what was once a one-stage, indoor concert has exploded into a two-day, three-stage outdoor extravaganza. This year, Singapore will also host an ULTRA LIVE Stage, making it the third country in the world to do so after Miami and Korea. Held along the spectacular Bayfront Avenue – a splitting image of Miami’s Bayfront Park location – with glittering views of the downtown skyline, the upgraded event boasts Phase One headliners such as Afrojack, Axwell & Ingrosso, deadmau5, and Kygo, bolstered by supporting acts DJ Marshmello and JAUZ. Other crowd favourites
EASY TRIPS Art installations spill over into the streets of Sydney for Art & About
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PHOTOGRAPH: CITY OF SYDNEY
Get acquainted with Sydney’s artistic side A unique stage for local and international artists to showcase their wit and spirit, Art & About Sydney has been a shared celebration of creativity and identity for over 13 years, flourishing year on year with avid support from the government to foster a nurturing environment for the arts through grants, public art programs, and the encouragement of expressive installations. An amalgamation of theatre, dance, film, art, photography and so much more, the Art & About Sydney programme has been transformed into an ongoing yearlong calendar of creativity, and for the upcoming months of September and October, visitors to the city can look forward to three standout events: Australian Life, Little Sydney Lives, and Hidden Sydney – The Glittering Mile. Australian Life is an outdoor gallery showcasing the unique sights that make up, well,
Australian life. Held at Hyde Park North, the exhibition will feature the work of 22 finalists, each chosen by a panel of photographers, artists and curators from work submitted by emerging and professional photographers across the country, all contending for the final prize of $10,000. From close-up moments of reflection to a wide-angle on the collective hopes and dreams of all Australians, these stunning shots are as diverse, interesting and surprising as the country that inspired them, and look beyond iconic images to reveal new insights into the Australian identity. Get a dose of cabaret with a night at Hidden Sydney – The Glittering Mile. An immersive, exhilarating and witty experience set over four floors of The Nevada, the former Sydney brothel which once boasted the world’s biggest bed, Hidden Sydney – The Glittering Mile is a narrative filled with drag queens, madams of the
night, quick-witted bouncers, and crims, crooks and other eccentrics alike as you relive the notorious world of Kings Cross through its
MAKE IT HAPPEN After 13 years of a festivalstyle programme that packed as much art as possible into a one-month schedule, Art & About Sydney now offers an ongoing yearlong calendar of creativity that still balances major projects with intimate exchanges and thoughprovoking exhibitions in unusual spaces across the city. Explore the whole programme on artandabout.com.au. Fly direct to Sydney from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur via Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines respectively; both conduct multiple daily flights to this iconic Australian city. Within
heydays during the 50s, 60s and 70s. “Enter, if you dare!” Book your limited season tickets at ticketmaster.com.au.
Sydney itself, the Opal smartcard ticket can be used on trains, buses, ferries and light rail, and can be used beyond the city centre if you would like to do additional sightseeing in the Blue Mountains, Central Coast, or Southern Highlands surrounds. Be where the cool cats are at QT Sydney, the stylish boutique joint housed within the historical theatre district. This immersive and luxurious Sydney accommodation is the perfect complement to an artistic design-centric weekend (from US$360 per pax per night; qthotelsandresorts.com/ sydney-cbd).
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City at a glance:
LIMA How the Peruvian capital earned its nickname, ‘Lima the Ugly’, is beyond comprehension; this city of contrasts is all sweeping ocean views, pre-Columbian temple ruins, and an emerging force as a culinary powerhouse
Local women dancing during the Festival of the Virgin de la Candelaria
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PHOTOGRAPH: 123RF
WORDS RAEWYN KOH / JOYCE HUANG
Distrito de Chorillos
PHOTOGRAPHS: INÉS MENACHO, BEATRICE VELARDE
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HEN PEOPLE HEAR OF Lima, the next word to cross their minds is most likely ‘beans’ and not ‘Peru’. And while lima beans are one of the more famous things to have originated from this city, there is more to this capital beyond ancient Mesoamerican produce that continues to be cultivated. For those who have heard of Lima, however, many still think that Lima’s history began in 1535, after the founding of the colonial city by Francisco Pizarro, the conquistador who toppled the Inca Empire. But many forget that the first inhabitants of Lima settled in the area as early as 10,000 years ago. A pre-Inca civilisation had thrived in this coastal city for a thousand years before the Spanish arrived, leaving behind impressive huacas and beautiful ceramics. Huacas are just a smidgen of the attractions to be found in Lima. As the seat of the Spanish rule for 300 years, Lima also has wonderful churches and cloisters of monasteries that are worth a visit. That isn’t to say Lima is just a ruin and relic-filled desert. The largest city of Peru is also the second largest capital located in a desert, after Cairo in Egypt. Lima is every bit a sophisticated cosmopolitan megacapital. Peru is a multiethnic nation formed by the combination of a variety of cultures and races over five centuries. Indigenous ethnicities here include tribes from the Andes and Amazon, and colonial rule brought along European ethnicities like the Spanish, British and Croatian. Two of the largest groups of immigrants, however, are the Chinese and Japanese, who arrived as miners and railroad workers in the late 19th century. There are
generations of Peruvian-born Chinese and Japanese that have had a large influence on Peruvian culture, especially in the country’s cuisine. Then there are also the markings of a modern civilisation that continues to expand its global reach. High-rise condos are built right next to pre-Columbian temples, and ultramodern seaside neighbourhoods butt up against gritty shantytowns that cling to barren hillsides.
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In the museum-saturated city are also collections upon collections of sublime ancient pottery left behind by civilisations that have long gone extinct, as well as galleries debuting edgy art from local Peruvian artists that are beginning to catch the eyes of art collectors everywhere. Lima is right on the other side of the globe from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Unfortunately, flying into the city’s Jorge Chavez International Airport is a minimum 30-hour affair. Routes with minimal transits will include stopovers at Amsterdam or Paris first, where there are daily flights into Lima. Navigating Lima is neither an easy task. The chaotic network of confusing buses and unregulated taxis in heavy traffic make getting around complicated, time-consuming and quite frankly, daunting. However, your best option is still to take a taxi, as they are generally inexpensive. It would be wise to negotiate a price before boarding if flagging a cab off the side of the road, as many do not have meters. It is easier and safer to book a taxi by phone, otherwise, get concierge to set up a driver for the day. Don’t let the complications of travel stop you from visiting Lima, however. This city of contrasts that sees high-rise buildings right next to pre-Columbian temple ruins presents a multi-faceted city that readily introduces the rest of Peru.
Everyone is aware of Peru and the mountains and the Incas but Lima is something that people discover, especially our food.
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– Mario Testino OBE, Peruvian fashion and portrait photographer Mercado Indio’s sells souvenirs bearing Peruvian craftsmanship
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Plaza de Armas of Lima First timers to Lima must visit the birthplace of the city at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Plaza de Armas of Lima (Plaza Mayor). It is from the plaza’s square that the city grew outward and the centre is where many historic moments have taken place. A charming water fountain marks the middle of the plaza and surrounding it are historically important and iconic colonial-style buildings: the Government Palace, Cathedral of Lima, Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, the Municipal Palace, and the Palace of the Union. O Lima District 15001
Huaca Pucllana There’s no need to trek into the Andes to see vestiges of Peru’s ancient civilisations. Dotted around urban Lima neighbourhoods are a large number of historical ruins, known locally as huacas. Most are generally fenced off (the extent of the preservation done by Peru) but one of the more tourist friendly huacas is the Pucllana Temple, or Huaca Pucllana, in the upscale Miraflores district. Huaca Pucllana is said to have been built around the height of Lima’s cultural history, around 500AD. Seven staggered platforms form this great adobe and clay pyramid that served as an important ceremonial and administrative centre. Much of the site has been restored but excavations are an on-going activity that still uncovers ancient artefacts. For a romantic evening out, there’s an on-site restaurant where dinner comes with beautiful views of the 1,500-year-old ruins. Restaurant Huaca Pucllana stays open long after visiting hours are over. O resthuacapucllana.com
Monastery of San Francisco Just a block northeast from Plaza de Armas of Lima is the Monastery of San Francisco. The site contains a church and monastery that were blessed in 1673 but only completed a century later in 1774. The bright yellow Franciscan church is most known for its library that contains 25,000 antique texts. Some notable books in the library include the first Spanish dictionary published by the Royal Spanish Academy, and a 1571 – 1572 edition of the Holy Bible. Walk through the library and you’ll also be able to view an interesting localised painting of The Last Supper by Diego de la Puente that depicts the meal using typical Peruvian ingredients. The bone-lined catacombs are also noteworthy. Discovered in 1943, the catacombs contain thousands of skulls and bones and there is an estimated 25,000 bodies laid to rest there. O museocatacumbas.com
Museo Larco In culturally and historically rich Lima, there is no shortage of museums to visit to gain a better understanding of the city’s significance on the rest of Peru. One of the most popular museums in Lima is the Museo Larco, a privately owned museum of pre-Columbian art. Housed in an 18th century vice-royal building built over a 7th century pre-Columbian pyramid, the museum’s galleries chronicle an overview of 4,000 years of Peruvian pre-Columbian history. Just a preview of what is available on exhibit are extraordinary collections of gold, silver and textiles, as well as mummies that show off the different ways ancient cultures, including the Incas, preserved their dead. A large part of the museum is also dedicated to erotic art from the preColumbian era. Art from this time period often incorporated detailed representations of genitalia, and men and women participating in sexual acts that involved beings from other worlds. O museolarco.org
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PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLOS IBARRA, LUIS GAMERO, GIHAN TUBBEN
Attractions
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Cathedral de Lima, Monastery of San Francisco, Museo Larco, Huaca Pucllana
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Shopping
PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLOS IBARRA, JOYCE HUANG
Costa Verde Right next to the upscale residential district of Miraflores are the coastal cliffs of Costa Verde. The best way to catch the beautiful views of Costa Verde is to take part in some adrenaline pumping activity. On a windy day, the 70m cliffs provide an excellent lift for paragliding and hanggliding. There are a handful of paragliding operators along the beach who can provide the opportunity of not just seeing the panoramic coast from a birds’ eye view but also the thrill of flying by shopping malls and residential buildings in such close proximity.
FROM ABOVE Paraglide off the cliffs at Costa Verde, Makaha beach is best suited for surfing beginners
Activities La Herradura Surfing is a popular sport in Peru, thanks to the long Pacific coastline in Lima. For beginners to the sport, Waikiki and Makaha beaches off Miraflores have a number of surf schools in the area. However, the best place to catch surfing action is at La Herradura in the district of Chorrillos. The swells here are much bigger and last longer. La Herradura is also a favourite spot for scuba diving with its diverse marine flora and fauna.
Mercado de Surquillo No. 1 Start your day like a local Peruvian by first heading out to the markets. The Mercado de Surquillo No. 1 (Surquillo Market) is a favourite with local chefs thanks to the sheer variety of fresh produce available. Locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables, herbs, and of course, cuts of meat, and even offal, fish and other seafood are just the tip of the iceberg of what can be found. Take the time to peruse and be amazed at other rare finds, like unpolished grains, cheeses and spices on display. Elsewhere in the market, find whatever you need for a well-stocked kitchen and pantry, such as kitchen and tableware from small businesses. O Paseo de la Republica Block 53, Surquillo
Mercado Indio’s Some may label this place as a tourist trap but there really is no better market to go to for locally crafted souvenirs. Mercado Indio’s is an artisan market that sells nearly everything Peruvian craftsmanship has to offer. Just some memories of Peru you can bring home are pre-Columbian-style clay pottery, alpaca rugs, silver jewellery and silverware, and knock-offs of Cuzco School canvases – didactic religious art. Take your time exploring the three-block grounds and, as a rule of thumb, bargain every price offered to you before purchasing anything. O Petit Thouars 5245
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Eat Central Restaurante The two-time winner of the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants takes diners on a culinary journey through Peru’s varied regions with its choice of ingredients, traditional cooking methods and new culinary techniques. For a crash course in what Peru’s land can offer, sample from Head Chef Virgilio Martinez’s Mater Elevations tasting menu. Inspired by the landscapes and produce of the country, the menu is divided into different altitudes where each Peruvian ingredient is found. Native ingredients from land and sea are prepared in a novelty of ways – dehydration and fermentation are just two techniques employed – and presented as a reflection of their natural ecosystem. O centralrestaurante.com.pe/en
Maido Peru’s diverse culture is best experienced at Maido by Mitsuharu. Mitsuharu Tsumaru is the Lima-born chef that heads operations here. Peru has the second largest ethnic Japanese population in South America (Brazil has the largest) and Maido serves up Nikkei cuisine, an amalgamation of Japanese-influenced Peruvian food (or vice versa, depending on whom you ask) that comes from more than 100 years of Japanese immigration into Peru. Tsumaru is a professionally trained chef who honed his skills in the nuances of Japanese cuisine back in sushi restaurants across Japan. Expect Japanese delicacies and techniques paired with Peruvian ingredients for artful creations like grilled octopus, botija olives, tofu and crispy black quinoa; guinea pig confit with molle pepper, chilled harusame noodles with sanbaizu (Japanese vinegar) and rocoto (a type of South American chilli). O maido.pe/en
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PHOTOGRAPHS: CENTRAL RESTAURANTE , MAIDO
FROM ABOVE Journey through Peru at Central Restaurante, Nikkei cuisine – Japaneseinfluenced Peruvian food at Maido
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The Arts Boutique Hotel B The stark white stately mansion stands out in the romantic and bohemian district of Barranco. The historic manor was built in 1914 and restored just two years ago. It retains its charming Belle Époque style of glamorous interiors with high ceilings, Italian marble fixtures, and grand living room illuminated by antique candelabras. Works of surrealist-style art hung in corridors adds a touch of modernity to the grand hotel. Each of the 17 guestrooms, spread between the mansion and three-storey annex, have been individually designed, making return trips here a necessity to fully appreciate the work put into The Arts Boutique Hotel B. In the afternoons, indulge in tea and finger sandwiches in the library, then make your way to the rooftop Sundowner Deck for a pour of traditional pisco sour. O hotelb.pe
PHOTOGRAPHS: BELMOND MIRAFLORES PARK, HOTEL B
Hotels Belmond Miraflores Park Located just a mere 45 minutes from the airport and set in one of Lima’s most fashionable areas is Belmond Miraflores Park. But beyond just its spectacular location in the heart of the city are its breathtaking views out to the Pacific Ocean. This luxury hotel has indulgently appointed rooms that are spacious and feature marble bathrooms. For a relaxing time, head to the rooftop for a dip in the outdoor pool, or just lounge poolside with an evening cocktail while admiring the sunset. If in need of some help to unwind, some rooms come with a bath butler who will help select soaps, oils, bath salts and scented candles to set the best mood. O belmond.com/miraflores-park-lima
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Great Escape A U S T R I A N
A L P S
Begin your mountain adventure with a wander through the Baroque old town of Innsbruck. Then don your hiking boots to explore the Zillertal, before taking a high Alpine road trip and a tour deep into the natural wonders of Salzburgerland. Round things off with some sailing in the Austrian Lake District. @olivertomberry O PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MUNRO
G R E AT E S C A P E
WORDS OLIVER BERRY
The village of Hallstatt in Upper Austria is a highlight of the World Heritage-listed Salzkammergut region – Austria’s Lake District
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Plan your trip 1
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Classic Tyrolean scenery in the Zillertal’s valleys creates a natural arena for hiking, rockclimbing and yodelling too (p48).
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Fuel up for one of Europe’s most legendary drives: the soaring Grossglockner High Alpine Road (p50).
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Beneath the mountains of Salzburgerland a world of frozen grandeur opens up to explorers (p52).
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Finish your trip by unwinding in the Austrian Lake District, where sailing boats pass in the shadow of the peaks (p54).
MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: EVERETT/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, JTB PHOTO/SUPERSTOCK, MARIHA-KITCHEN/ISTOCK/GETTY, MATT MUNRO
With its imperial architecture and mountains on all sides, Innsbruck has a unique claim to be the capital of the Alps (p46).
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ON THE ROAD
Take on
Innsbruck is the entry point for this trip – Lufthansa flies from Singapore with one stop in Frankfurt (from US$1,493; lufthansa.com). There are no singlecarrier flights from from Kuala Lumpur, but a viable alternative is to fly into London Gatwick and take a connecting flight to Innsbruck. The choice of direct routes from the UK to Innsbruck is lower in summer than it is in ski season.
HOW TO GET AROUND Having your own car is really the only practical way to explore the mountains. All the main car hire firms can be found at Innsbruck’s airport and train station. A week’s hire with Europcar starts at around US$203 (europcar.com). Weather can change quickly in the mountains, so it’s worth checking road conditions and the latest forecast before you set out. In winter, snow chains are mandatory on many roads. Many places in this feature are linked by trains, but may require multiple connections (oebb.at).
HOW LONG TO SPEND Austria is a relatively compact country, but mountain roads can be long and winding, especially once you get off the autobahn. A week should be long enough to cover the route, but 10 days would allow some time to factor in extra outdoor activities such as hiking, climbing and sailing.
WHAT TO BUDGET Apart from popular ski resorts in peak winter weeks, accommodation prices are standard for Western Europe. Walkers’ hostels are the cheapest places to stay, generally costing under US$40 a night; mid-range hotels cost between US$105 and US$157 for a double room, while luxury venues with spas and pools are likely to cost upwards of US$183 per night. In places that stay open during the off-season, discounts are often available. Main dishes in restaurants generally cost from US$13 to US$33, and while beer is
cheap (around US$4 for a large stein), wine can be expensive. Petrol is considerably cheap, at just over US$1 a litre.
WHEN TO GO In tourism terms, the Alpine year divides into a ski season (December to mid-April), a summer season (roughly June to mid-September) and quiet months in between when many hotels, restaurants and visitor facilities close. In our itinerary, the Grossglockner Road and Eisriesenwelt are only open in summer, and this short season can mean crowds and high ticket demand in July and August especially. Summer temperatures average between 25˚C and 28˚C – although it can feel substantially colder at higher altitudes, so it’s always worth packing some extra base layers and a warm fleece.
Buy Austria’s ‘white gold’. Salzburg salt was worth a fortune in the days before fridges; the mineral content gives it a unique flavour.
Sip
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HOW TO GET THERE
Carbs to fuel mountain activities, in the form of knödel. These traditional boiled dumplings are an Austrian staple, and are eaten both sweet and savoury. Try spinatkäseknödel (spinach and cheese dumplings).
Schnapps – a fiery spirit usually drunk after dinner as a digestif. Local flavours include apple, blueberry and even hay.
WHO CAN HELP This trip is best planned independently, but some companies offer tours to parts of the itinerary. Inntravel, which specialises in ‘slow holidays’, offers dozens of Austrian tours, including a four-night walking holiday in the country’s Lake District (from US$635 incl accommodation, most meals and bag forwarding; inntravel.co.uk).
HOW TO PLAN Lonely Planet’s Austria (US$24.99) has all you need to know about travelling in the mountains, and you can download its regional chapters for US$4.95 each (lonelyplanet.com). The Austrian National Tourist Office website is packed with useful information on sights, attractions and activities (austria.info).
Watch The Sound of Music, filmed entirely on location in the mountains around Salzburg. Altogether now: ‘The hills are alive…’
Practise Yodelling – it features in practically every Austrian folk song, but takes years to master. Nearly every valley and village has its own variation; the ululating sound helps the voice to travel over long distances, making it ideal for cross-mountain communication.
Spot Marmots (a type of ground squirrel) in the mountains; listen out for their distinctive highpitched whistle. Ibex and golden eagles are much harder to find – bring binoculars.
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43 4 3
AUSTRIAN ALPS Hohenwerfen Castle in Salzburg Province (Salzburgerland) dates back more than 900 years – within the mountain behind it are the ice caves of Eisriesenwelt
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Breathe in pure mountain air… SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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1. Innsbruck A waypoint across the Alps since ancient times, the stately city of Innsbruck is steeped in imperial history, yet also serves as a launchpad for mountain activities
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HADOWS SLANT OVER Innsbruck’s cobbles as the city shakes off its slumber and wakes for another day. In its cafés, locals gather for their morning constitutional – a cup of black coffee and a slice of apple strudel, baked at dawn and served piping-hot. As they tuck into breakfast, sunlight creeps along pavements and onto façades painted in pastel pinks, mustard yellows and duck-egg blues. North of the Altstadt (Old Town), cable cars buzz up the hillsides, ferrying walkers to an early start among the spiked summits of the Nordkette range. More than 200 miles west of the Austrian capital Vienna, Innsbruck is a city where life is framed by the mountains. Hedged north and south by peaks, it guards one of the most ancient trading routes over the Alps, the Brenner Pass. For centuries, pilgrims, pedlars, traders and troopers have travelled through here on their way across the mountains, using Innsbruck’s namesake bridge to cross the Inn River en route to Italy and the Mediterranean beyond.
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Innsbruck grew rich by controlling the flow of trans-mountain traffic. As capital of Tyrol, it served until 1665 as an alternative seat of power to Vienna for the Habsburg dynasty. Even now, long after its imperial star has waned, the town still cheekily bills itself as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. Habsburg influence dominates the elegant Altstadt. Boulevards lined by mansions and merchants’ townhouses radiate from the city’s heart, and many buildings are richly decorated: swashes, scrolls and curlicues embellish their Baroque façades, like flourishes on a wedding cake. Often, the architecture contains echoes of old glories: the imperial double-headed eagle is a common motif, adorning everything from shop signs to door knockers. Inevitably, it’s the city’s royal buildings that impress most. The hallways of the Hofburg Palace are lined with Old Master paintings and objets d’art, and its ceilings emblazoned with frescoes that play games with the eye – conjuring curves where none exist, or seeming to open into the heavens. Nearby, on HerzogFriedrich-Strasse, stands the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), built for Emperor Maximilian I in 1500 as a royal box from which to watch festivities in the square below. Crowned with 2,657 copper tiles that flash and shimmer like fish scales in the sunlight, it’s a striking reminder of Innsbruck’s glorious past. One man who has an unusual insight into the city’s history is Peter Grassmayr, whose family owns Austria’s oldest bell foundry, founded in 1599, just south of the city centre. Grassmayr bells have been chiming out from the city’s church towers for four centuries, and are now shipped to temples, chapels and sanctuaries across the globe. ‘We make bells for eight different religions and 50 countries,’ Peter explains, as he strolls around the foundry’s bell garden, where a collection of the company’s historic bells now reside in hushed retirement. ‘We might be in the middle of the mountains, but our bells can be heard as far away as Jerusalem, Australia and Japan!’ For all its architectural pomp, these days Innsbruck is a place that’s more popular for the outdoor pursuits that take place beyond its urban core. It has hosted the Winter Olympics twice – in 1964 and
1976 – and few cities have such a main line to the mountains. A futuristic funicular, designed by star architect Zaha Hadid, joins up with two cable cars to whisk hikers, skiers and snowboarders from the Altstadt’s squares into the heart of the Nordkette range at more than 2,000m, taking 20 minutes in all. At the top, a viewing platform overlooks the city’s rooftops – a sea of spires, domes and terracotta tiles, backed by black peaks. But there is a price for such a view: as the cable car glides to a halt and its doors whoosh open, a blast of wind whips up from the valley below, sending hats and gloves flying as it howls across the summits. Most people are prepared, tightening hoods and zipping up fleeces as they begin the trek back down towards the city. In an hour or two, they will be rewarding themselves with mugs of hot chocolate and slices of torte in one of the Altstadt’s old-world cafés. From Innsbruck, follow the A12 autobahn east along the Inn Valley before turning south for rock-climbing and hiking around Mayrhofen in the valley of the Zillertal – an hour’s drive in total.
Essentials
The Grand Hotel Europa was built in 1869. Its bedrooms are modern, with neutral colour schemes and spacious bathrooms, though some suites have a more Alpine feel, with woodpanelled walls and rustic furniture. Reminders of the hotel’s 19th-century heyday remain – ask at reception to have a peek into the grand ballroom, glittering with antique chandeliers (from US$157; grandhoteleuropa.at). Find more tips at innsbruck.info. Pick up an Innsbruck card, which covers admission to most museums, and includes travel on buses and cable cars (US$34/42/49 for 24/48/72 hours).
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The view across the River Inn from the top of the Stadtturm in the Altstadt. OPPOSITE Peter Grassmayr on the floor of his family’s historic bell foundry
The Baroque belltower of the Spitalskirche. LEFT The heraldry-laden Goldenes Dachl. RIGHT A townhouse façade on HerzogFriedrich-Strasse
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2. Zillertal Generations of climbers and hikers have tested their mettle around these valleys, where mountain traditions remain strong – from Alpine hospitality to after-dinner yodelling
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AKE UP THE SLACK,’ shouts Matthias Schiestl, as he dangles by one arm from a sheer granite face, clips his rope into a carabiner and dips his hand into a bag of chalk hanging from his belt. Thirty feet below, his girlfriend Nina braces her legs against the rock and leans backwards so the rope tightens against the piton, in case Matthias’s grip should slip. It’s an unnecessary precaution. In a sequence of graceful steps and lunges using clefts and ledges in the rock, he ascends the last part without as much as a missed step. At the top, he takes a break and surveys the green meadows of the Ewige Jagdgründe. Other climbers are tackling pitches around the valley, and Matthias watches them with an experienced eye, assessing lines, critiquing routes, evaluating moves for style and panache. Having caught his breath, he scrambles back onto the rock face and abseils to the bottom, where Nina is waiting with a flask of coffee and a chocolate bar. Now 27, Matthias is one of Austria’s most promising young climbers. Born and bred in the Zillertal, he’s been exploring the valley since he began climbing as a teenager. A senior member of the Austrian climbing team, he’s competed all over the globe, but for him, there’s nowhere quite like home. ‘I’ve completed most of the main routes in the Zillertal,’ Matthias says, ‘but there’s always a new place or a better line to find. That’s what keeps me exploring.’ Slinging his ropes over his shoulder, he sets off in search of the next spot. Meadows hatch either side of the trail, where a few cows munch lazily. Cascades tumble like threads
Matthias Schiestl scales a giant boulder
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of silver off the valley walls, and the loamy scent of earth and tree sap hangs in the air. The Zillertal is hiking country, with some of the wildest scenery in the Alps: lakes, plateaus, ridges and pastures awash with wildflowers. Cable cars allow easy access to the trailheads, and mountain huts provide hikers on longer routes with a hot meal and a place to stay overnight. These refuges are a cornerstone of Alpine life and hospitality: most have kept their rustic atmosphere, with pot-bellied stoves, gingham tablecloths and ibex horns on the walls. One of the most aged of these hostelries is the Klausenalm, near the Ewige Jagdgründe in the wild web of valleys southwest of the main town of Mayrhofen. At this cabin, long wooden tables are loaded with mountain specialities: cheese soup, dried sausage, crusty bread and meaty stew. As his guests eat, owner Karl Geisler emerges from the kitchen, discarding his apron for an accordion before trilling and parping his way through a folk song. Everyone links arms and joins in for the chorus, but Karl’s impeccable yodelling steals the show. After lunch, a band of hikers heads up into the remote Oberböden area, deserted save for a few farmhouses and tumbledown barns. The group climbs steeply through the forest; by late afternoon, they’ve reached their goal: a junction between two valleys. Sharp and sheer as a pair of crossed swords, it was carved out long ago by mighty glaciers that once sliced through the Zillertal. The hikers stop for a breather on a rocky knoll. On the valley’s far side, fissures in the cloud rain sunlight onto the mountainsides, and the air seems charged with electricity.
There’s a crack, then a rumble – in seconds, a downpour sends the hikers scurrying for cover under the pines. It’s a reminder that, though its pitches have been climbed and its paths mapped, the Zillertal is a corner of the Alps where nature still has the upper hand. From Mayrhofen, it’s a 1¾-hour drive east on moderately winding roads to the village of Bruck, at the northern end of the legendary (and extremely winding) Grossglockner High Alpine Road.
The sound of cowbells is never far away in the Zillertal
Essentials
With its timber façade and flower-stocked balconies, Mayrhofen’s Elisabeth Hotel looks traditional from the outside, but surprises await within. Rooms are contemporary, with stripped wooden floors, freestanding baths, digital music systems and remote-controlled lights. Mountain views command a premium. There’s also a luxurious spa (from US$235; elisabethhotel.com). The tourist office can provide hiking maps and arrange guided climbing lessons (zillertal.at). For longer stays, the Zillertal Activcard includes local travel and other discounts (US$63 for 6 days).
Karl Geisler at Klausenalm with a platter of Alpine specialities
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AUSTRIAN ALPS Emerging from the Hochtor Tunnel at the top of the Grossglockner Road, the view south into the province of Carinthia takes in a few of the route’s 38 hairpin bends
3. The Grossglockner Road Buckle up for an unforgettable ride along this sky-top mountain road – just watch out for the mountain goats
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ROM THE CORKSCREW Corniches of the Côte d’Azur to Amalfi’s clifftop roads, Europe has its share of iconic routes, but none can match the Grossglockner High Alpine Road for mountain splendour. Winding for 30 miles through Hohe Tauern National Park, it’s Austria’s highest, most hair-raising drive. More rollercoaster than road, it veers and dips, curls and swerves. It swings round switchbacks and plunges through tunnels. Fog, rockfalls and belligerent 50
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mountain goats are routine hazards. From November to April, the route is closed, sitting under several metres of snow. Even in summer, the weather is unpredictable: the altitude means one section can be swathed in cloud while another basks in sunshine. For most people, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime journey, but for park ranger Konrad Mariacher, it’s his daily commute. He lives in Heiligenblut, an old gold-mining town near the road’s southern gate. He’s driven the Grossglockner in all weathers, but even
he can sometimes be caught by surprise. ‘The road has a mind of its own,’ he says, parking his truck at a viewpoint off the road, overlooking the five-mile-long Pasterze Glacier. Below him, a plain of shattered rock and grey ice extends along the valley. ‘When the cloud rolls in, one curve looks exactly like another, so you have to take care. But the real danger here is the scenery. Every year, many cars come off the road because the driver is paying more attention to the view than to the asphalt.’ He looks up to where the road loops through long, arcing curves towards the Hochtor, a mountain pass that’s been in use since before Roman times. Beyond here, there’s a spur that leads up to the Edelweiss-Spitze, where a panorama encompasses more than 30 peaks over
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The village of Heiligenblut marks the southern end of the road – its name means ‘holy blood’, a reference to a relic housed in its Gothic pilgrimage church
Essentials
3,000m, including the mighty Grossglockner itself – Austria’s highest mountain at 3,798m, and the summit after which the road is named. The road itself was the brainchild of a group of entrepreneurs who wanted to capitalise on the new-fangled pastime of motor-touring in the early 1930s. At a cost of more than 55 million euros in today’s money, it seemed a madcap project, but today, some 900,000 people pass through the Grossglockner’s toll-gates every year. On this morning’s ascent towards the Edelweiss-Spitze, a veil of cloud hangs over the mountain, obscuring everything but the next bend and the headlights of the car in front. But the Grossglockner gloom doesn’t last long. As the road weaves upwards, the weather unexpectedly breaks. The mist thins and dissipates.
Streaks of sky appear overhead. Yellow pastures appear by the roadside. On the far side of the Hochtor Tunnel, it climbs over a final ridge and a chain of peaks looms along the horizon, like soldiers standing to attention along a castle’s battlements. The summit of the Grossglockner itself appears, an icy spike towering above silver cloud. Suddenly, the boom of engines cracks the silence like cannon fire, and a phalanx of leather-clad bikers races past. They’re the first motorists of the day on the Grossglockner, but they certainly won’t be the last. Double back over the Grossglockner Road (or take one of the tunneled alternatives to the east or west) to reach the heart of the Salzburgerland – the province of which Salzburg is the capital.
The late 19th-century Glocknerhaus is a hiker-friendly hostelry in a glorious location near the Pasterze Glacier. It’s spartan – pine-panelled rooms come with a shower, bed and not much else, but the views make up for the basic facilities. The restaurant specialises in hearty walkers’ grub like baked fish, stews and hotpots (private en suite rooms from US$98; dasglocknerhaus.at). The standard one-way vehicle toll on the Grossglockner Road is US$33 (grossglockner.at).
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4. Salzburgerland Elemental forces have created marvels in the mountains of Salzburg, and the most wondrous is within the rock itself
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EEP INSIDE HOCHKOGEL mountain, cave guide Siggi Kahl is getting ready for his tour. Using a flaming taper, he lights old-fashioned carbide lamps, and hands them one-by-one to his guests. ‘These are the only lights allowed in the cave, so please, no torches or mobile phones. Also, I hope you’ve all brought a warm coat!’ He takes a headcount, then heaves open a cast-iron door bolted into the rock and steps into inky blackness.
The cave system at Eisriesenwelt (‘World of the Ice Giants’) extends over more than 25 miles
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Inside, the reason for Siggi’s warning becomes obvious. Within a few steps of the cave’s entrance, the temperature plummets to within a sliver of freezing. Breath steams and fingers chill. Up ahead, a staircase disappears into the gloom, and high above, a line of lights from another group bobs and sways like fireflies in the darkness. ‘Now I am afraid we must do some climbing,’ Siggi says, rubbing his hands together for warmth. After a few minutes, Siggi stops and takes a strip of magnesium from his pocket.
Touching it to his lamp, it catches light with an electric-blue flash, sending shadows dancing onto the walls. ‘This is where you see why we call this Eisriesenwelt,’ Siggi says, holding the sparking magnesium aloft. ‘Welcome to the World of the Ice Giants.’ From the gloom, a great column of blue-white ice materialises beside the staircase, its surface gleaming and glinting like crystal in the lamp-light, and its upper reaches lost in the darkness. From inside, there’s the faint sound of water trickling as the ice melts – the same process that’s carved out the cave over millions of years. ‘This is the largest ice formation we have here,’ Siggi says, lighting another magnesium strip as the first sputters and dies. ‘And it’s still growing. It’s added more than a metre this season.’
AUSTRIAN ALPS reopen in spring, it’s amazing how much has changed. Often we have to move the path because the ice has altered shape or moved. It’s almost like it’s alive.’ For Siggi, the Salzburgerland is an area where it’s impossible not to be awed by nature’s power. ‘The cave guides here have a joke,’ he says, catching a few rays of sunshine between tours. ‘We have the best office in the world, but the central heating needs some work.’ He grins and picks up his carbide lamp, stuffing extra rolls of magnesium into his pockets, then heads back into the icy underworld. Return from the icy depths to explore Austria’s greatest concentration of lakes, around 1–1½ hours’ drive to the northeast.
Essentials
In addition to the ice caves, explore the two-mile-long Liechtensteinklamm – a gorge 20 minutes’ drive to the south, by the village of Sankt Johann im Pongau. Right opposite the entrance to the gorge is the small Hotel Lerch-Plankenau. It has simple, motel-style rooms, but the restaurant is good value and there’s often live music during dinner (from US$118 half-board; lerch-plankenau.at). Eisriesenwelt is open from May to October (US$25 including cable-car access; eisriesenwelt.at).
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G R E AT E S C A P E
Eisriesenwelt – above the town of Werfen – is one of many ice-caves in this part of the Austrian Alps. They’re caused by a geological peculiarity; their chimneylike shape draws in cold air in winter but prevents the ingress of warm air in summer, meaning the water inside freezes but never fully thaws. Gradually, the ice builds up inch by inch, foot by foot, and over millennia accumulates into huge formations. Though many of its structures are ancient, the ice itself is dynamic, changing with every passing year. Pillars grow and dwindle. Tunnels appear and vanish. Stalagmites and stalactites intertwine before melting into nothingness. ‘The cave is closed for winter as it’s too cold inside,’ Siggi says, as he passes a huge serac of ice, like a wave frozen in motion. ‘When we
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AUSTRIAN ALPS Schloss Ort is one of the first sights seen when sailing out of Gmunden – the castle sits on its own tiny island in the Traunsee. BELOW Manuela Kiesenhofer sails the sevenmile-long lake
5. The Austrian Lake District Experience the tradition of sommerfrische – summer refreshment – beside the shores of Alpine lakes
N
EAR THE TOWN OF BOLUO in China’s Guangdong Province, there’s a village by a lake. It has flower-covered houses and bubbling fountains. The squares are swept and the roofs topped with tiles, and a pointy church rises by the lakeshore. The village is called Hallstatt, and it looks too pretty to be true, as though it’s been picked up from the pages of a European fairytale. In a way, it has. In fact, it’s a copy of a much older Hallstatt. The real one can be found on the edge of the Hallstättersee about 40 miles from Salzburg. The story goes that in the early 2000s, some Chinese developers went in search of the perfect Austrian village, and they liked Hallstatt so much, they decided to build their own version. With its cobbled squares, boathouses and timber-framed cottages, the Austrian Hallstatt looks like it’s been designed from scratch to grace the cover of a tourist brochure. There’s been a village here since prehistoric times, when late Bronze Age settlers mined the surrounding mountains for salt – a valuable commodity in the days before refrigeration, and an industry that has lasted into the 21st century. Salt made the wider Salzkammergut region rich. Stretching from the city of Salzburg eastwards into the Dachstein mountains, most of this area was once the private property of the Habsburgs, governed by its own regional administration known as the Imperial Salt Chamber, which oversaw the running of the salt mines and the vast wealth they generated. Later, however, the Habsburgs found a different reason to love the Salzkammergut – the newly fashionable pastime of sommerfrische (summer refreshment). With its crystal-clear lakes – 76 in all – the area became one of Emperor Franz Joseph’s favourite spots for a break. Throughout his reign, from 1848 to 1916, he and his wife Elisabeth returned nearly every year to boat on the lakes, stroll the shoreline and hopefully bag an ibex or two while hiking in the surrounding mountains. It sparked a local tourist boom that endures to this day. Hallstatt still seems pickled in time. 54
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It’s enjoyed Unesco protection as a World Heritage site since 1997, and its buildings are as perfectly preserved as museum exhibits. Balconies teeter over the village’s stone streets, festooned with wisteria and geraniums. Smoke puffs from chimneys leaning at improbable angles. Rowboats bob on the edge of the lake, and reflections of peaks shimmer on the glassy surface. Alexander Scheck grew up near the Hallstättersee. He’s one of only two fishermen permitted to catch the lake’s native whitefish, the reinanke – once a delicacy reserved for emperors, but now a common sight on local menus. Every morning, Alexander chugs his barge across the lake before dawn, gathering in his nets by hand before heading back to sell his catch at the village fish shop. It’s a practice unchanged in centuries, and one that Alexander maintains with pride. ‘We still use the old techniques to fish here,’ he says, heaving in his net and extracting each fish by hand, giving each its final coup de grâce against the boat’s gunwale. ‘Hallstatt is a place where nothing ever changes much.’ Today, people flock to the Salzkammergut region to immerse themselves in nature and indulge in sommerfrische for themselves. Some lakes have become playgrounds for wealthy cityfolk from Salzburg and Vienna, while others have kept their traditional character, with cosy inns and waterfront cottages dotted along the shorelines. Manuela Kiesenhofer works for a sailing school based on Traunsee, one of the largest lakes in the area. In summer, she spends every day out on the water, teaching her students the sailing basics: tacking, jibing, how to use the wind and when to trim a sail. ‘I could never sit in an office all day,’ she says, leaning out from the yacht’s starboard side as she hauls on a rope to make the mainsail snap taut. ‘I’d miss the feel of the wind on my face too much.’ She swings behind the helm and plots a course for the town of Gmunden. It’s late afternoon, and the sun is tinting the town’s lakefront houses in ginger, ochre, yellow and auburn: it is almost exactly the same view Emperor Franz Joseph would have enjoyed, and the very essence of sommerfrische.
G R E AT E S C A P E
AUSTRIAN ALPS
Essentials
Hallstatt’s hotels tend to be over-priced, so it’s best to visit from nearby lakes. Views don’t get better than at Das Traunsee hotel, on the lake of the same name. Rooms are decorated in bright, beachy style, and most have balconies. Breakfast is a treat: the muesli selection alone puts most places to shame (from US$183; dastraunsee.at). A day’s sailing lesson starts at US$157 (celoxsailing.eu). Read more at salzkammergut.at.
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PERFECT ISLANDS
FIND YOUR
perfect
15 islands to cover all tastes, from cultural breaks to castaway fantasies
Best for Atmosphere SANTORINI, GREECE O POPULATION 15,000 O SIZE 35 square miles
Few volcanic eruptions have adjusted geography for the better quite like the blast that shook Santorini more than three millennia ago, an explosion that turned a single island into a curious chunk of land shaped like a broken Polo mint. What stands today is a place quite unlike any other: windmills, churches and whitewashed houses cascading down cliffs that were once the rim of a mighty volcano, blue sea having long since replaced bubbling magma below. Holidays in Santorini follow an established routine: idling on beaches of red volcanic sand, rambling the alleyways of hilltop villages or visiting the crumbling ruins of Akrotiri – an outpost of the Minoan civilisation until it was destroyed by said eruption around 1620 BC. All, however, are but a prelude to the daily drama of watching the setting sun shimmering in the waters of the Southern Aegean, from a whitewashed balcony high in the cliffs. O GETTING THERE Fly from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur to Athens first on KLM with one layover in Amsterdam. From here, fly on Aegean Airlines to reach Santorini (from US$55; en.aegeanair.com). 56
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Best for Walking RÉUNION, FRANCE O POPULATION 845,000 O SIZE 970 square miles
The notion of an Indian Ocean island suggests turquoise lagoons, infinity pools and all-inclusive resorts. Well, Réunion is nothing like that. A piece of French soil detached from the mainland and 400 miles adrift off the coast of Madagascar, Réunion looks more like a wild island out
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of comic book fantasy, with smouldering volcanoes, thundering waterfalls and a jungle-clad, mountainous interior criss-crossed by hiking trails. The king of all these trails is the five-hour slog up the Piton de la Fournaise – an active volcano that periodically sends smoke spiralling to the heavens and lava streaming towards the sea.
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In the intervals between eruptions, walkers can hike to the rim for views overlooking plains of volcanic ash and green foothills, with the Indian Ocean beyond. O GETTING THERE Fly AirAsia from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur to Chennai, India first. Then fly Air Austral to Réunion (from US$350; air-austral.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIEN BOÉ/500PX, MICHELE FALZONE/AWL IMAGES, UGO MELLONE/SIME/4CORNERS
PERFECT ISLANDS
Best for Culture CHILOÉ, CHILE O POPULATION 160,000 O SIZE 3,241 square miles
Chiloé, it’s often said, is an island whose character was inherited from surrounding seas rather than from the Chilean mainland: be it through the fishermen who set out on foggy mornings to bring home a catch to make curanto (seafood and meat steam-cooked over hot rocks) or the Magellanic and Humboldt penguins that squint out to sea from the western coast. A blustery, green land that looks not unlike Wales, Chiloé’s architecture looks like nothing else in South America, with its villages of palafitos (stilt houses, pictured) and World
Heritage-listed churches, built wholly from timber, which creaks sonorously in the Pacific wind. Among them are the extroverted church of San Francisco de Castro, painted in a curious colour scheme of mustard yellow and purple, and the rather more sober 18thcentury Santa Maria de Loreto, held together by wooden pegs. O GETTING THERE From Singapore, fly Air France to Chile's Santiago via Paris. From Kuala Lumpur, fly Malaysia Airlines via Sydney, Australia. LAN flies onwards to Chiloé's Castro airport (from US$270; lan.com). Chiloé is also an hour’s drive from Puerto Montt followed by a short ferry crossing.
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Best for Legends MLJET, CROATIA O POPULATION 1,100 O SIZE 38 square miles
For anyone following coast roads south through Croatia, Mljet represents the grand finale – one last big island, before the Dalmatian Archipelago fades out into the Adriatic Sea. It’s a case of saving the best until last, with Mljet being one of the most untouched islands in the Mediterranean: all tumbledown
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terracotta-roofed villages (such as Prožurska Luka, pictured), quiet stone quays and lowslung hills forested with Aleppo pine. It’s equally perfect whether you board one of the sailing boats that bob beside limestone rocks or cycle along the solitary road that wriggles its way across the interior. Explorers from both sea and land can visit the Odysseus Cave – a sea tunnel rumoured to
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be the spot where the Greek sailor was imprisoned by the nymph Calypso, and into which brave swimmers set out on their own mini-odyssey. O GETTING THERE Connect from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur to Dubrovnik on British Airways with one stop in London; most flights only run in the warmer months. Continue by ferry to Sobra port on Mljet in 1½ hours (from US$4.75; gv-line.hr).
PERFECT ISLANDS
Best for Castaways TANERA MÒR, SUMMER ISLES, SCOTLAND O POPULATION None permanent O SIZE 1 square mile
PHOTOGRAPHS: KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES, JUSTIN FOULKES/4CORNERS, IAIN GALLOWAY/500PX
For anyone who’s watched the 1973 classic The Wicker Man, a holiday in Scotland’s Summer Isles suggests pagan rituals and grisly human sacrifice. Luckily the producers only borrowed the name of this archipelago for their film, and the real-life Summer Isles (pictured, in the middle distance) are a less risky proposition (there are almost no
humans here to sacrifice anyway). An archipelago of islets scattered off the top left hand corner of the Highlands, this is about as remote a plot as you can find in the UK – a refuge for early Christian monks, for criminals evading the long arm of the law, and now for visitors who can lodge in crofters’ cottages on the lone inhabitable island of Tanera Mòr. Castaways can spend their days wandering
the heathery moors and seaweed-strewn beaches until the appointed time when the little ferry shuttles them back to the mainland across the chilly fathoms of Loch Broom. O GETTING THERE See summerisles.com for details of ferries and cruises to the islands (from US$13). The nearest town is Ullapool, a 1½-hour drive from Inverness, which has flight connections from London.
Best for Snorkelling KARIMUNJAWA ISLANDS, INDONESIA O POPULATION 9,000 O SIZE 27 square miles
Indonesia is a country entirely made up of islands – at least 17,000 of them by some counts. While the island of Java at the heart of the archipelago is home to more than 140 million people, Karimunjawa is another story. This tropical escape 50 miles north of Java, reached by a bumpy plane ride or an equally bumpy ferry trip, comprises 27 islands, countless nodding palms and a few sandy beaches. Most visitors spend the greater part of their time face down and ignoring all the above, however, as Karimunjawa has some of Indonesia’s best snorkelling. For a good introduction, board
a boat departing from the principal hub of Pulau Karimunjawa to Menjangan Besar and Menjangan Kecil – two islands with no permanent residents, but whose surrounding reefs are home to shoals of technicolour fish and endangered turtle species. O GETTING THERE Karimunjawa's airport mostly serves small charter planes, such as those booked by the Kura Kura Resort (flights May–Oct; kurakuraresort.com). Otherwise, there are fast ferries from Semarang (4 hours) and Jepara (2 hours) on the main island of Java. AirAsia flies to Semarang direct from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur (from US$50; airasia.com).
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Best for Nature MADAGASCAR O POPULATION 24 million O SIZE 224,534 square miles
For all the high drama of the African savannah – from roaring lions to thundering wildebeest migrations – there is no African destination with weirder, more consistently wondrous wildlife than Madagascar. The island detached from the mainland some 160 million years ago and ever since has set about perfecting some of the planet’s most distinct and sublime natural spectacles, from strangely bulbous baobab trees to chameleons the size of your fingernail. The headline attraction, however, is of course the lemurs. For an easy 62
introduction to this extraordinary family of primates, make for AndasibeMantadia National Park: two swathes of rainforest 60 miles east of the capital Antananarivo. Keep your eyes peeled to spot sifakas (pictured) – lemurs that skip sideways along the forest floor – while simultaneously keeping your ears tuned to catch the call of the indri, a lemur close to extinction, whose song sounds like a police siren. O GETTING THERE It's best to start your journey in Singapore to fly on Singapore Airlines to Johannesberg before flying South African Airways to Antananarivo (from US$314; flysaa.com).
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Best for a Slower Pace SAAREMAA, ESTONIA O POPULATION 30,000 O SIZE 1,032 square miles
O GETTING THERE Fly to Estonia’s capital Tallinn on Turkish Airlines (Singapore) or KLM (Kuala Lumpur) with one stopover each. Kuressaare is a 45-minute flight from Tallinn (from US$45; flyavies.ee).
PHOTOGRAPHS: WALTER BIBIKOW/AWL IMAGES, MASSIMILIANO STICCA/500PX
Until the end of the Cold War, Saaremaa was off-limits to ordinary tourists, home to a top-secret Soviet military base where rockets were targeted at the West. Ever since, Estonians have targeted their holiday plans at Saaremaa to find out what they were missing: a quiet island where lighthouses watch out over the Baltic coast and windmills rise over forests of pine and spruce. The port of disembarkation is Kuressaare, a handsome town home to a giant medieval castle (pictured) and spas that make use of the
local mineral-rich sea mud. Freshly exfoliated daytrippers from Kuressaare find the rest of the island rewards idle exploration, with medieval churches, tumbledown farms and – rather unexpectedly – the 100-metre-wide Kaali Crater, with its lake at the centre, formed by a violent meteorite impact a few thousand years ago; proof if ever it was needed of Saaremaa’s powers of attraction.
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Best for Explorers BAFFIN ISLAND, CANADA O POPULATION 11,000 O SIZE 195,928 square miles
An island more than twice the size of Great Britain with a population a little smaller than Boracay, Baffin Island represents Canada’s Arctic frontier at its wildest – vertiginous peaks, creeping glaciers, frozen plains where winter temperatures routinely sink below -30°C and a coastline where tiny Inuit villages huddle against cliffs facing out over the ice floes. The most spectacular corner is Auyuittuq National Park, a place as difficult to reach as it is to spell, involving a two-day trek from the hamlet
of Pangnirtung – itself only accessible by many and convoluted flight connections. The reward, however, comes when you find yourself in a granite mountainscape in the company of caribou, wolves and bears. Be sure to travel with a seasoned guide, lest you experience the park from within the cosy confines of a polar bear’s stomach. O GETTING THERE Baffin Island’s small capital Iqaluit has flight connections (from US$1,700; firstair. ca) with Montreal. KLM flies to Montreal from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur with one stop in Amsterdam (from US$1,000; klm.com).
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Best for Americana KEY WEST, USA O POPULATION 25,000 O SIZE 5 square miles
Closer to Havana than Miami, Key West has always been the place to abscond to when things get too much up north. In the late 1940s, President Truman ran the country from here when the stress of Washington got to his head; Hemingway wrote his war novels here in peace under the Caribbean sun (in the company of 66 6 6
a six-toed cat called Snow White) and thousands of American students flock here annually to let off steam at the close of the spring term. Approaching via US Route 1 – the solitary highway that spans blue shallows all the way from mainland Florida – Key West’s escapist appeal is soon evident: handsome townhouses with creaking shutters and shady verandas, boho boutiques and
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palm-lined promenades. Make for Mallory Square (on the main island, just behind Sunset Key, pictured in the foreground); this seafront open space – busy with acrobats, fire-eaters and other street entertainers – is the place to get the pulse of Key West life. O GETTING THERE Fly to Miami from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur on Turkish Airlines (one stop in Istanbul). The island is a 3½-hour drive away.
PERFECT ISLANDS
PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHELE FALZONE/AWL IMAGES, SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS
Best for a Party BORACAY, PHILIPPINES O POPULATION 12,000 O SIZE 4 square miles
Despite being one of the smaller islands in the archipelago, Boracay is the Philippine island that makes the most noise, stays up latest and has the groggiest voice in the morning. The epicentre of the party is White Beach (pictured), a 2½-mile strip of soft white sand that has – over a few decades – morphed from a laid-back hippie hangout to an energetic nightlife capital of Southeast Asia, with countless bars beneath the seafront palms. There’s plenty to keep hungover souls busy too: try the easy climb to the viewing deck atop Mount Luho
(more of a hill really) for views out to the neighbouring islands of Carabao and Tablas, or charter a ride on a paraw – a type of outrigger sail boat that sweeps gracefully along the island’s shore. Set sail at sunset to stand a chance of spotting large fruit bats crowding the skies of Boracay just before crowds of revellers make for the watering holes of White Beach. O GETTING THERE Fly from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur on AirAsia to Manila before taking a 35-minute flight on Philippine Airlines to Caticlan-Boracay airport (from US$107; philippineairlines. com). A fleet of small boats makes the 15-minute crossing to Boracay itself (from US$4).
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Best for Mavericks
LUNDY, ENGLAND O POPULATION 28 O SIZE 2 square miles
Lundy is one of Britain’s great unsung treasures – a chunk of land between Devon and Pembrokeshire in the realm of shipwrecks and Atlantic squalls. It has a dramatic history to match: having been ruled by treasonous nobles, Moroccan pirates and not a few people who proclaimed themselves king (one as late as the 1920s). Luckily it’s possible for anyone to pretend they’re the monarch of this island, with the Landmark Trust leasing out 23 properties around Lundy. Would-be kings should book in the Castle Keep Cottages, studious types in the Old School and those seeking isolation in Tibbetts, a tiny cabin poised on a remote cliff, from which 14 twinkling lighthouses can be seen on a clear night. O GETTING THERE See landmarktrust.org. uk/lundyisland for details of boat and helicopter transport to Lundy (from US$85 return). All depart from near Barnstaple in Devon, reachable by train from Exeter. Fly BA to London before connecting on AccesRail (from US$58; accesrail.com).
Best for Food BORNHOLM, DENMARK Although located closer to Poland, Sweden and Germany, Bornholm is emphatically Danish, with woods out of a Hans Christian Andersen story, a castle worthy of Hamlet and a growing reputation for New Nordic food. The pioneer is Kadeau, a restaurant where foraged ingredients become high-concept dishes such as oysters with hemp wrapped in a kale leaf. If you’ve space left, book a seaside table at elegant Le Port (pictured) or try heartier food, such as cured herrings, at Nordbornholms Røgeri, a traditional smokehouse. O GETTING THERE Fly Turkish Airlines to Copenhagen, then take the 35-minute flight to Bornholm (from US$106; dat.dk). 68
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PHOTOGRAPH: STEFON COX/500PX
O POPULATION 40,000 O SIZE 227 square miles
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Best for Sailing UNION ISLAND, ST VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES O POPULATION 2,100 O SIZE 3 square miles
As proven by the swaying masts offshore, Union Island is among the best-loved anchorages in the Caribbean, the harbour backed by colourful corrugated-iron huts under green hills. Scan the vessels for the distinctive silhouette of Scaramouche – a schooner that found fame appearing in the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. Channel Jack
Sparrow by hopping aboard for a day-trip to the lovely Tobago Keys – five uninhabited isles where snorkellers can walk the plank (or rather, just jump off the boat) to spot parrotfish and sea turtles amongst the coral. O GETTING THERE Fly to Barbados with BA via London from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, then head on to Union Island with Mustique Airways or SVG Air (from US$400; svgair.com).
Best for Seclusion HAGGERSTONE ISLAND, AUSTRALIA O POPULATION 2 (plus guests) O SIZE Less than 1 square mile
If Swiss Family Robinson had made landfall in Australia, chances are their home would have resembled Haggerstone Island: a crumb of land on the Queensland Coast, and one of the most northerly pieces of Australian territory. Now an eco-resort, it’s the private kingdom of latter-day castaway Roy ‘Gouger’ Turner, who whittled and sawed its treehouses and bungalows
into shape after first arriving in 1985 (he acquired his nickname after rescuing someone from a crocodile attack by jumping on the croc and gouging its eyes). Less eventful days in his company might see guests reeling in fish from the seas or prizing fresh oysters from the rocks before banqueting as the sun sets beyond the island’s little timber pier. O GETTING THERE Fly Scoot direct to Cairns from Singapore or on AirAsia and Jetstar from Kuala Lumpur. Take a combination of charter flight and boat trip to the island (from US$515; haggerstoneisland.com.au).
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YOGI’S INDIA
THE CRADLE India is an assault on the senses, challenging you with contemplate who you are and where you stand in the Najiah Ramlee uncovers what it takes to be a yogi here
I
ndia, the largest democracy in the world is also the world’s second largest nation with 1.25 billion people calling it home. Seemingly a homogeneous market at first glance, this nation of 29 states and 7 union territories is so diverse it is almost shocking. Nearly all of the world’s religions are represented here, while 22 different languages are officially recognised with many others being spoken across the country. India has had its share of foreign rule as well that spans over 1,100 years, with the British claiming 300 and the Mughals 800. This hotbed of various influences allowed for the shaping of Indian society as we see it today. There is no concrete history of the birth of
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yoga – many of the sacred texts and teachings were transmitted orally and were considered secret for many years, so not much was preserved in writing. While the Indus-Sarasvati civilisation of northern India is widely credited with yoga’s beginnings over five millennia ago, some historians believe that it may possibly be as ancient as 10,000 years old. Pre-classical yoga was slowly refined and developed by the Brahmans and Rishis (mystic seers), who documented their practices and beliefs in the Upanishads. Out of its over 200 scriptures, the most renowned is the Bhagavad-Gîtâ, composed around 500 BC. The Upanishads taught that excellence could only be achieved through the sacrifice
of the ego via self-knowledge, action (karma yoga) and wisdom (jnana yoga). In classical yoga, there is an “eight limbed path” containing the steps and stages towards obtaining Samadhi or enlightenment. In contrast, post-classical and modern yoga rejected the ancient teachings in favour of embracing the physical body as the true path to achieving enlightenment; the yoga masters created a system of practices designed to rejuvenate the body and prolong life, and developed a new form of practice called Tantra Yoga (what we refer to today as Hatha Yoga), consisting radical techniques to cleanse the body and mind to free ourselves from the binds of our physical existence.
YOGI’S INDIA
OF YOGA its extremes, prompting you to world. In ashrams across the country,
Sail in style into Kerala, God’s Own Country, with cruises along the beautiful backwaters
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YOGI’S INDIA
In Haridwar, Kumbh Mela is practiced once every twelve years, a mass pilgrimage of faith when Hindus gather to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges
The many gods in Hinduism each represented pieces of the whole puzzle, showcasing different facets of the universal truth. It is said that humans created these stories in order to help them grasp the vast concept of the One.
Delhi
Haridwar
Rishikesh
My journey started in New Delhi, all ready for International Yoga Day on 21 June – it was in its second year of celebrations following Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s proposal to the United Nations General Assembly in 2014. “Yoga is an invaluable gift of India’s ancient tradition. This tradition is 5000 years old. It embodies unity of mind and body; thought and action; restraint and fulfilment; harmony between man and nature; a holistic approach to health and well-being. It is not about exercise but to discover the sense of oneness with yourself, the world and the nature. By changing our lifestyle and creating consciousness, it can help in well-being.” Having been adopted by majority of the member nations, International Yoga Day is then celebrated by yogis worldwide. Although colloquially interchangeable, Delhi and New Delhi are distinct entities, the latter city being a small part of the former state.
The next stop was to visit Haridwar, in the state of Uttarakhand, where tourists can witness devotees washing their sins away in the holy Ganges river in the daily Aarti ritual to attain Moksha or true freedom. The river flows from the Himalayas and enters North India for the first time in this city. It is regarded as one of the 7 holiest places to Hindus. It is said that Amrit, the elixir of immortality, was spilt at Har ki Pauri while carried by the celestial bird Garuda and that is celebrated every 12 years with a huge festival of ritualistic bathing by both pilgrims and tourists alike. Nevertheless, even the daily rituals are incredible to behold, where sadhus or pilgrims clad in orange robes or just loincloths join the masses on the banks of the Ganges with both pilgrims and devotees bathing in the freezing waters as the priests chant. Everyone else can also join in the fun by lighting the beautiful flower offerings and setting them afloat in the river and joining in the chants.
Just a short distance away (25km) is Rishikesh, also known to many Western yoga enthusiasts as the Yoga Capital of the World and to Hindu pilgrims, one of the holiest places where sages have visited to gain enlightenment since ancient times. The city is meat and alcohol free, one where cows have right of way and cow poop is constantly swept away. Rishikesh came to fame thanks to the Beatles who visited in 1968 and were inspired to record the ‘The Happy Rishikesh Song’. Here, one is reminded of the extremes of India, where poverty and pollution litter the streets. However, when one steps into an Ashram, it’s a completely different story - almost as though they were two separate places. The largest ashram with over 1000 rooms in Rishikesh is the Parmarth Niketan, along the banks of the Ganges, founded in 1942. Visitors can stay in its many rooms to take part in the daily schedules of yoga, meditation, kirtan, lectures and enjoy Ayurvedic treatments. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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At sunset, everything comes to a halt as everyone is treated to a world-renowned Ganga Aarti. Aarti means to remove darkness, usually with a flame or light. After songs in praise of a deity, devotees cup their downturned hands over the flame and raise their palms to their forehead as a blessing. The flame is waved around clockwise around a centre, suggesting how one lives with the universe or God at the centre of all activities. It was an honour to be right in front, on the river bank, dipping my feet in the holy river and even participating in the Aarti as the priests chanted. The ceremony is open to all, regardless of race, ethnicity, nationality and religion, to gather on the banks soaking in the magical atmosphere as the skies dim. After the Aarti, the spiritual head and President of the Ashram, Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswatiji Maharaja and Sadvhi Bhagawati Saraswatiji engage in an open dialogue again open to all who seek any guidance.
Kerala Kerala, which means Land of Coconut Trees, is believed to have been built by God itself with 44 rivers, backwaters and 600km of coastline along with forests covering a third of the land. Its name already hints at its beauty and peacefulness, making it a great vacation destination. It is said that in Keralan cuisine and life, the humble coconut features so much that without it, they would not know how to live. Trivandrum, Kerala is home to a beautiful ashram which is part of the famed Sivananda lineage, the Sivananda Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram. There are 3 Sivananda ashrams in India – in the Himalayas, Kerala and Madurai. Ashram refers to home of a guru or saint. While physical postures or asanas are what yoga is commonly known for, in the yoga sutras of Patanjali, they are only 1 part of an 8 limbed path that guides a yogi’s life. This stems from the belief that only in a healthy
Visit the serene International Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centre in Trivandrum, Kerala to take part in its many yoga sessions, teacher trainings and enjoy Ayurvedic treatments
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body does a healthy mind live. In asanas, one uses the body as an instrument to eventually connect with the higher self and universe. For visitors, it is advisable to visit the ashram from June to March, avoiding the sweltering summer months of April and May. For those interested in Ayurvedic treatments, it is best to go during the monsoon season of June to August when it is cooler as many techniques incorporate steaming. It was at this time that I learnt from the guides who accompanied us that the many gods in Hinduism merely represented pieces of the whole puzzle, each showcasing different facets of the universal truth. It is said that humans created these stories in order to help them grasp the vast concept of the One. My personal favourite is the story of Ganesha, the popular elephant God with an elephant face and a human body, the God of Beginnings and Remover of Obstacles. His big elephant ears and long nose remind us that one should learn to listen and breathe through life’s challenges. His small eyes signify concentration. His four hands hold on to objects like the axe which notes that in life, problems may come from attachment and there is a need for balance. In another hand he holds a rope, by which farmers used to control a cow, indicating how we should be able to control ourselves and our five senses from harm. Next, he holds a tusk, used to write, inspiring the attitude of constantly learning. Finally, he holds a sweet to remind us that life is still beautiful. And to top it off, he rides a tiny mouse as his vehicle of choice, to illustrate how contradictions can always exist. All in all, India has been both nourishing and yet entirely educational, opening one’s eyes to so many extremes, contradictions which exist next to surreal idealism. It is certainly a place which lends itself to multiple trips, revealing new glimpses into India with each visit. NAJIAH RAMLEE is a yogi in the works, who was pleasantly surprised to find greater peace and acceptance by going with the flow in the loud hustle and bustle of Indian cities. The multitude of curries, doughy treats and cottage cheese must’ve helped!
YOGI’S INDIA
The Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centre guides all visitors around the 5 points of yoga - of proper exercise, breathing, relaxation, diet and positive thinking and meditation. All staff members are actually volunteers, practicing karma yoga, as a means to spiritual growth and removal of ego The temples in India are as colorful as are its garments, with artwork everywhere; this drawing on the oor was found at Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore, Chennai
The forward fold or uttanasana, one of the many yoga postures or asanas today, helps to calm the mind while lengthening the hamstrings, calves and back. Great after hours of seated travel! India and its multitude of bright colors representing the diverse nature of the country, in all possible ways be it in fashion, architecture, vehicles, religion and languages
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The Photographer’s Story SERENE CHNG
Hidden Himalaya When one mentions trekking in Nepal, most people think of soaring peaks and impossible suspension bridges over glacial blue rapids and prayer flags frantically flapping in the wind. But this stunning landscape is also home to a rich and surprising diversity of wildlife. Keep your eyes peeled, and you’ll notice a group of Bharal grazing on the near-vertical slopes, lock eyes with a Himalayan Griffon sizing you up for lunch, even marvel at a delicate butterfly fluttering by at 5,000m above sea level. The rewarding Manaslu Circuit, the less-trodden (and therefore more exclusive)
neighbour to Annapurna, was my first long-distance trek ever. It took us from sweltering subtropical lowlands through mysterious pine forests and magical misty rhododendron forests in full bloom, along cliff-edge trails cut into the mountains, past glaciers and avalanches, in the shadow of giant snow-capped peaks. I would do it all over again.
SERENE is a food- and music-loving wildlife conservationist. Naturally, she loves being where the wild things are.
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On the very first day of our trek, I rise with the sun, bushy-tailed, bright-eyed and all raring to get a good morning’s birdwatching in. I was greeted with a special sighting of a Yellow-throated Marten on the opposite bank of the river – what a start! These fearless creatures are omnivorous, but will take on prey much larger than themselves. BELOW LEFT My, what long nails you have! A Kashmir Rock Agama basks in the sun while awaiting his next meal. During the breeding season, the male’s throat turns bright blue.
A handsome Speckled Woodpigeon gives a steely-eyed stare. These are typically found at higher elevations – this shot was taken at Namrung where, after four solid days of walking, we finally broke the 2000mmark and were starting to get views of the famed snow-capped Himalayan ranges. 78
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ABOVE A Whiskered Yuhina lurks in a tree. I had some waiting to do before this little looker poked its head out for me to get this shot. LEFT A Tailed Jay displays some impressive hovering skills as it sips mineral-laden water from a moist twig. If you’re sweaty enough, some butterflies will even land on you to feast on your perspiration!
A confiding Alpine Accentor wanders over to check me out. These chubby chaps kept me happily distracted on the inexorable four-hour trek to Larkya La, the highest point of the Circuit at 5160m. The gradual ascent isn’t actually that difficult (compared to the climb to Manaslu Base Camp), just long and where the air is rarefied. The steep descent that followed, though, was another story altogether. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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Extraordinary places to stay WORDS JOSMIN ONG
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1. SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND Cambodia
WHAT IS THE OUTSTANDING GREEN FACTOR? Located in Song Saa is the first marine reserve in Cambodia. Established in 2006, the resort has worked closely with the foundation to support coral reef restoration and fishing ground developments across its archipelago home. Its newest project includes protecting one of the planet’s rarest marine ecosystems: sea grass. In 2011, Song Saa and the local community established the first island-based solid waste management system in Cambodia. There are also nurseries to support the reforestation of damaged mangroves and rainforests within the country. The foundation also pioneered “Boat of Hope” – a vessel that travels between the Cambodian islands to provide educational, medical and livelihood support to the villages it visits. STYLE BONUS? Song Saa Private Island features 27 intimate and imposing villas, each designed to reflect the simple beauty of the natural environment. Expect to find recycled timber from disused fishing boats, furniture made from driftwood collected from local beaches and coves and floors made from timber salvaged from old factories and warehouses within your expansive villa. Throughout the resort, visitors will also notice the consistent use of colours and textures that represent Cambodia’s fishing traditions. Most importantly, guests are pampered in the lap of luxury with plush Ploh Linen beddings, grand oversized bathtubs, private decks and pools, and tailored bespoke service.
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LOBAL WARMING IS A PRESSING issue worldwide and more travellers are recognising the importance of environmental conservation to help minimise damage to Earth. With this growing interest, more hoteliers are creating sustainable tourism programmes to help the environment, preserve local culture and support the country’s economy. Eco-friendly and green hotels that are committed to conservation also have the added value of cultural sensitivity, privacy, style and exclusive activities. Here are our preferred choices for a unique vacation home that offers superior amenities and one that commits to a healthier planet.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SONG SAA RESORT CHARITY PROJECTS BY MOTT VISUALS
RATE: US$840++ per night songsaa.com
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2. SAL SALIS Australia
WHAT IS THE OUTSTANDING GREEN FACTOR? Sal Salis is a remote, beachside safari camp nestled in the dunes of Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park on the shores of Ningaloo Reef. This is one of Australia’s best-kept secrets with only 16 eco-luxe wilderness tents available on site. The size of the camp allows minimal damage to the environment as the rooms and main lodge facility are constructed above ground level to protect the indigenous fauna and flora. Boardwalks also help prevent unnecessary soil erosion and guests can only use designated footpaths while walking round. Different coloured tents help the camp blend into the natural surroundings. Almost 100% of the camp’s power is generated by the sun through an array of solar panels to ensure a predominately clean source of energy and preservation of the quiet environment.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SAL SALIS AUSTRALIA, THE GREEN HOUSE ENGLAND, PARKROYAL ON PICKERING SINGAPORE, MAS SALAGROS ECORESORT & AIRE ANCIENT BATH SPAIN
STYLE BONUS? Sal Salis is a fine example of the recent ‘glamping’ trend, which is defined as glamorous camping. This is also part of experiential travel, where travellers are able to head off the beaten path and immerse in an authentic local environment. Here, visitors will wake up to the song of birds and catch glimpses of kangaroos grazing among the dunes. There may also be a spectacle of breaching whales as one tucks into breakfast. Alternatively, visitors can enjoy a morning swim in Ningaloo’s crystal clear waters and discover marine wildlife up close. The spacious, airy tents are an oasis of comfort that allows travellers to take in the sights and sounds of the natural surroundings with the comforts of modern amenities. RATE: US$577++ per night salsalis.com.au
3. THE GREEN HOUSE England
WHAT IS THE OUTSTANDING GREEN FACTOR? It has been quite a journey since its opening but the boutique hotel prides itself in what they believe in – sustainable tourism. The Green Hotel operates on five core principles. Firstly, locally sourced products should always be chosen; be it for energy, transportation or food, supporting local business is important. Secondly, recycling should come naturally and by observing the 4Rs, it will minimise energy consumption, waste and landfill. Thirdly, consider the life cycle of everything that comes into the hotel and the adverse impact on the
environment. Fourthly, insist on high welfare standards, even for organisations that the resort deals with. Lastly, be transparent to all staff and customers to build a high level of trust. STYLE BONUS? This beautiful boutique hotel is home to 32 bedrooms, complete with contemporary décor, tactile fabrics and quality natural materials that complement the bright and airy period rooms. Each stunning bedroom comes with an en suite bathroom outfitted with natural stone basins, walk-in showers and luxury toiletries. Organic goose-down duvets encased in crisp organic bed linen promise a good night’s rest. Look forward to the lovely welcome of freshly baked homemade biscuits to pair with a cup of afternoon tea or coffee. Relish in imaginative seasonal cooking in Arbor, a two-AA Rosette restaurant and winner of a Gold in the Dorset Tourism Awards 2014 and 2015 (arbor-restaurant.co.uk). RATE: US$183++ per night thegreenhousehotel.co.uk
4. PARKROYAL ON PICKERING Singapore
WHAT IS THE OUTSTANDING GREEN FACTOR? Located in Chinatown at the gateway of bustling Singapore’s Central Business District, PARKROYAL on Pickering adopts a hotel-in-agarden concept and incorporates energy-saving features throughout the property. Other environmentally sustainable features include rainwater harvesting and usage of NEWater, automatic sensors to regulate energy and water usage (30% energy savings) and solar cells for powering landscape lighting. Lush foliage is also a prominent feature throughout the hotel with impressive sky gardens, green walls, waterfalls and a wide variety of plants adding to the biodiversity. PARKROYAL on Pickering also puts their values into practicing philanthropy through charitable missions, volunteer work and donation drives. Their dedication to the environment earned them ‘Asia’s Leading Green Hotel’ at the World Travel Awards 2015. STYLE BONUS? Beautifully designed with nature-inspired finishes and flushed with natural light, each of the 367 appointed rooms and suites within the 4-star establishment comes with an unobstructed view of Chinatown and Hong Lim Park. Abundant sunlight, lush greenery and earthy tones provide travellers a welcomed sanctuary away from home. On the fifth floor, guests can also indulge in a relaxing dip in the outdoor infinity pool, and then lie back
in the comfort of a cabana to take in the spectacular lush landscaping and city views of Singapore. Last but not least, wind down at St. Gregory, an award-winning spa located on a dedicated wellness floor. RATE: US$239++ per night Parkroyalhotels.com/Pickering
5. MAS SALAGROS ECORESORT & AIRE ANCIENT BATH Spain
WHAT IS THE OUTSTANDING GREEN FACTOR? It is not often you find a hotel that proudly proclaims that they are 100% organic, but Mas Salagros Ecoresort & Aire Ancient Bath boasts such a feat with their high standards of sustainability and eco-conscious projects. One such example is the bioclimatic architecture; they use“green roofs” with plants grown on it to help save energy as it reduces the ambient temperature and acts as a natural insulation. It also stimulates biodiversity in the environment and is especially beneficial to insects and other animal life. The other dominant factor is the use of locally sourced biofuels to provide heat. A biomass boiler is fed wood chips from the sustainable management of Catalonia’s woods, and generates all the energy required for heating and domestic hot water use. This ensures a significant reduction in carbon dioxide and greenhouse gass emissions compared to traditional fuels. STYLE BONUS? This quaint hotel has 54 rooms of different types, all fully equipped and decorated with 100% natural and ecological materials including wood, natural latex pillows, organic cotton towels and bed linen. Don’t forget to drop by Aire de Vallromanes – a thermal bath inspired by ones used by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Ottoman Turks. Enveloped in true elegant décor and accompanied by flickering candlelight, you will feel your body begin to unwind as the beneficial effects from the steam bath, or Hammam, start to work on your physical and mental well-being. There are also several outstanding leisure, sporting and cultural activities available at the resort for endless delight. RATE: US$141++ per night massalagros.com/en/ecoresort SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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Mini Guides S I X T H E M E D G U I D E S TO TA K E O N T H E P E R F E C T S H O RT B R E A K
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From your magazine to your pocket…
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Big trips on small budgets The guide to your once-in-a-lifetime big trip
Trang Islands, Thailand. As featured in Lonely Planet’s
Available in all good bookshops. shop.lonelyplanet.com AMAZING EXPERIENCES START HERE
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Contemporary TATE MODERN
Tate Britain, originally opened in 1897
MINI GUIDE
Art in London The capital’s art scene is as eclectic as the city itself, and it’s possible to flit between Renaissance masterpieces and contemporary stars all within a few gallery steps.
19th and 20th century
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
COURTAULD GALLERY The Courtauld Gallery in Somerset House contains a wealth of masterpieces by Rubens, Cézanne, Degas, Renoir, Manet, Monet and Seurat, to mention a few, but it is particularly known for its 19th-century Impressionist collection. Works to look out for include Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère; Vincent Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear; and Gauguin’s Nevermore (courtauld.ac.uk; Strand; open daily; from US$9.25).
Bound (2011) by Alice Anderson at the Saatchi Gallery
SAATCHI GALLERY Famed for courting controversy, the gallery hosts temporary exhibitions of experimental and thought-provoking work across a variety of media. The white and sanded bare-floorboard galleries are magnificently presented, but save some wonder for Gallery 13, where Richard Wilson’s beautiful 20:50 is on permanent display. An interesting shop draws visitors in on the first floor (saatchi gallery.com; King’s Rd; free).
SERPENTINE GALLERIES Situated in the midst of leafy Kensington Gardens, this is one of London’s most important contemporary art galleries. Each year, the gallery commissions an international architect to erect an unusual ‘Summer Pavillion’, and the galleries run a programme of readings, talks and open-air cinema screenings (serpentinegalleries.org; closed Mon; free).
Old masters
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VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
TATE BRITAIN Splendidly refurbished and showing off a rehung collection, the more elderly and venerable Tate sibling celebrates paintings from 1500 to the present, with modern pieces from Lucian Freud, Barbara Hepworth, Francis Bacon, Henry Moore and Tracey Emin. The stars of the show are the visions of 19th-century English artist JMW Turner (tate.org.uk; Millbank; free).
This outstanding art gallery, housed in a creatively revamped brick power station on South Bank, has been extraordinarily successful in bringing challenging work to the masses, both through its free permanent collection and fee-paying, big-name temporary exhibitions. There are free, guided highlights tours at 11am, noon, 2pm and 3pm daily (tate.org.uk; Queen’s Walk; free).
Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Van Gogh at the Courtauld
The Museum of Manufactures, as the V&A was known when it opened in 1852, houses the world’s largest collection of decorative arts, but also fine art such as paintings, prints and drawings. Its National Collection of Sculpture, comprising 22,000 objects dating from the 4th century, is especially impressive (vam.ac.uk; Cromwell Rd; free).
Room 50a: The Renaissance City at the Victoria & Albert Museum
NATIONAL GALLERY NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY What makes the NPG so compelling is its familiarity; in many cases you’ll have heard of the subject (royals, scientists, politicians, celebrities) or the artist (Warhol, Leibovitz). Popular works include a portrait of William Shakespeare, believed to be the only likeness made during his lifetime; the iconic Blur portraits by Julian Opie; and Sam Taylor-Wood’s video-portrait of David Beckham asleep (npg.org.uk; St Martin’s Place; free).
With some 2,300 paintings on display, this is one of the world’s richest art collections, with seminal works from the mid-13th to the early 20th century. Its religious art collection includes Da Vinci’s Virgin of the Rocks, while Michelangelo, Titian, Raphael and El Greco hold court in the West Wing. The North Wing is graced by Rubens, Rembrandt and Caravaggio (nationalgallery. org.uk; Trafalgar Sq; free).
SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM This little museum is one of the most atmospheric in London. The heritage-listed building is brimming with curiosities and works of art, including Riva degli Schiavoni, Looking West, by Canaletto and the original A Rake’s Progress – William Hogarth’s set of satirical cartoons of late-18th-century London lowlife (soane.org; 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields; closed Mon; free).
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MINI GUIDE Art in London
London essentials
The know-how BEST GALLERY EATING
TRANSPORT Direct flights are available on Bristish Airways from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to London Heathrow (ba.com; from US$691). The airport is well served by train and bus, and has its own tube station. Public transport in London is expensive but comprehensive: buy an Oyster card from any of the city’s tube stations for cheaper fares (zone 1 single from US$3.20; tfl.gov.uk). Or hire a public ‘Boris bike’ (US$2.70 access fee, first half-hour free, US$2.70 for every half-hour after that; tfl.gov.uk/modes/ cycling/santander-cycles).
WHERE TO STAY Stylish Citizen M has superking-sized beds and bright décor in its rooms. Its restaurant works on a self-service basis and the bar/lounge is a clever blend of designer and homely style (citizenm.com/london-bankside; 20 Lavington St; from US$150). 88
Sleeping
A room in the two-bedroom Soho Suite at The Soho Hotel
Lime Tree Hotel is a family-run hotel in a Georgian townhouse exuding understated elegance, championing British design and has a lovely garden in which to catch the afternoon sun (limetreehotel.co.uk; 135–137 Ebury St; from US$160). Every bedroom is put together like a work of art at The Soho Hotel. The location is perfect, close to the West End’s shops, restaurants, theatres and big-hitting galleries (sohohotel.com; 4 Richmond Mews; from US$470).
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O National Dining Rooms Oliver Peyton’s restaurant at the National Gallery features seasonal regional specialities (below), plus an extensive selection of British cheeses for a light lunch (peyton andbyrne.co.uk; Sainsbury Wing; lunch from US$10). O Portrait This restaurant above the National Portrait Gallery overlooks Trafalgar Square and Westminster. The brunch and afternoon tea are highly recommended (npg. org.uk; afternoon tea US$36). O Wallace An idyllically placed brasserie in the courtyard of the Wallace Collection. The emphasis is on seasonal French-inspired dishes, or you can partake in the English tradition of afternoon tea (wallacecollection.org/visiting/ thewallace-restaurant; Manchester Sq; afternoon tea US$24.50).
FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s London (US$21.99) is a comprehensive guide to visiting the city, individual chapters available at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95); for short breaks, there’s Pocket London (US$13.99). Check out artmonthly.co.uk for listings of London gallery previews, events and closing exhibitions. The Improbability of Love (US$19.99; Bloomsbury) is a satirical window into the London art scene by Hannah Rothschild, chair of the National Gallery.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM PETER DRAGICEVICH, STEVE FALLON, EMILIE FILOU AND DAMIAN HARPER. PHOTOGRAPHS: © TATE PHOTOGRPAHY, UKARTPICS/ALAMY, © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON, SIMON BROWN, KRIS KIRKHAM PHOTOGRAPHY
Sights
Markets have existed at Grand Place since the 11th century
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Sights GRAND PLACE One of the world’s great urban spaces, the enclosed cobblestone square is only revealed as you enter on foot from one of six narrow side alleys. It’s crammed with 15th- to 18th-century guildhalls that are unashamed exhibitionists. Magically lit at night, it’s alive with classic Belgian cafés and hosts a flower market on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings.
MUSÉES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTS
MINI GUIDE
Budget Brussels There are plenty of cheap thrills to be had in Belgium’s fascinating historic capital, where Art Nouveau façades clamour for attention with brewpubs and multicultural markets.
Activities
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PLACE DU JEU DE BALLE FLEA MARKET This chaotic flea market, established in 1919, and spilling over with brocante (bric-a-brac), is a favourite with local shoppers. Haggling for a bargain here is a quintessential experience in Brussels’ once resolutely working-class Marolles quarter. It’s at its liveliest on weekends – get your elbows out – but the best bargains are to be had early mornings midweek (Place du Jeu de Balle, Marolles; weekdays 6am–2pm, weekends 6am–3pm).
PALAIS DE JUSTICE This hilltop complex of law courts was the world’s biggest building when it was constructed (1866–83). The main lobby, beneath a giant dome and watched over by forbidding statues, is open to visitors but receives far fewer than it deserves. Behind the building a terrace offers wide panoramas over Brussels and a free glass elevator leads down to the Marolles (Place Poelaert; free).
L’Eixample
COMIC-STRIP MURALS Belgium’s vibrant comic-strip culture (Hergé and Tintin came from this neck of the woods) is writ large on the streets of Brussels where dozens of comic-strip murals enliven alleys and thoroughfares throughout the old city centre. The tourist office on Grand Place has a ‘comic strip trail’ pamphlet showing the locations of more than 50 murals with commentary.
This prestigious mega-museum incorporates Brussels’ museum of Old Masters, where the 15th-century Flemish Primitives are well represented, its Modern Art museum, an Art Nouveau museum and the purpose-built Musée Magritte, which holds the world’s largest collection of the Belgian Surrealist’s works (fine-arts-museum.be; closed Mon; combination ticket US$15).
View of the upper floor of the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts
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MAISON ANTOINE
A mural of outlaws The Daltons on Rue de la Buanderie
BREWERY TOUR Brasserie Cantillon is Brussels’ last operating lambic brewery (the beer is produced by spontaneous fermentation), and an atmospheric brewerymuseum where much of the 19th-century equipment is still used. Take a self-guided tour, including the barrel rooms where the beers mature for up to three years in chestnut casks. The entry fee includes a glass of one of Cantillon’s brews (cantillon.be; Rue Gheude 56; closed Weds; US$7.80).
Maison Antoine is a classic little fritkot (takeaway chip kiosk) in the EU quarter, with a reputation for some of Brussels’ best frites. Such is its popularity, that cafés on the surrounding square (including beautifully wrought iron-fronted L’Autobus) allow frites eaters to sit and snack so long as they buy a drink (maisonantoine.be; Place Jourdan; frites from US$2.90).
GARE DU MIDI MARKET This Sunday market is said to be the biggest in Europe and it’s a good place for cheap eats. Its sprawl of colourful stalls has an international flavour, with exotic North African and Mediterranean spices, cheeses, meats, and food stands selling bites such as Moroccan crêpes. Come early and you’re likely to see clubbers emerging from a long night out (Gare du Midi; 6am–1pm Sun).
Family-run Maison Antoine was established in 1948
DE ULTIEME HALLUCINATIE
For the price of a beer (from US$2.25) at this Schaerbeek bar, you’ll get to spend some time ogling a magnificent Art Nouveau timewarp. It is located in a classic townhouse refitted with Art Nouveau interiors in 1904 that have barely changed. The salon has original lamps, brass radiator covers and stained glass (ultiemehallucinatie.be; Rue Royale 316; closed Sun).
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MINI GUIDE Budget Brussels
Brussels essentials
Drinking
Sights
Eating
Sleeping
The know-how BELGIAN BEERS
TRANSPORT The most direct flight is on Qatar Airways via Doha from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur (qatarairways.com; from US$582); the airport is 20 minutes from the city centre. The airport is serviced by bus and train; Airport City Express trains run to the city’s three major train stations (b-rail.be; single US$8.65). Brussels has an integrated bus-tram-metro system and tickets are cheaper if you buy before boarding (single US$2.10). Unlimited one-day passes cost US$7.50 (stib-mivb.be).
WHERE TO STAY The design-driven Pantone Hotel is located in central St-Gilles, and is modern, stylish and surprisingly affordable. Some of the larger rooms come with a balcony or terrace (pantonehotel.com; Place Loix 1; from US$120). Housed in a 17th-century 90
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Pantone Hotel is designed with a scheme of contrasting colours
mansion, The Captaincy Guesthouse is an idiosyncratic, boutique hostel, which features an especially lovely double room and en suite four-bed female dorm (thecaptaincybrussels.com; Quai à la Chaux 8; from US$38). Chambres d’Hôtes du Vaudeville is a classy b&b with an incredible location. Larger front rooms have claw-foot bathtubs and street views; back rooms are quieter (theatreduvaudeville.be; Galerie de la Reine 11; from US$135).
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O Abbey beer Many of Belgium’s
FURTHER READING
top beers remain ‘abbey beers’ in name only as brewing has been outsourced in return for royalties. Grimbergen, Maredsous and Leffe are excellent examples. O Trappist beer A controlled term of origin for beers brewed in Trappist-Cistercian monasteries, of which Belgium has six. Rich, smooth and complex, Chimay, Orval and Westmalle are easy to find. O White beer Wheat beers, typically cloudy, flavoured with hints of orange peel and cardamom. The best known is Hoegaarden. O Lambic & fruit beers Often blended (to make gueuze), or sweetened with sugar/caramel (for faro)) or by y adding fresh fruit, it, notably cherriess (for kriek) or raspberries (for framboise).
Lonely Planet’s Pocket Bruges & Brussels (US$13.99) is a handy guide for weekend breaks, or the Brussels chapter from the Belgium & Luxembourg guide offers a more compact overview of the city (US$4.95; download at lonelyplanet. com). Beertourism.com has exhaustive information on beers and breweries. For an insight into the complex history of Brussels and Flemish society, read Flanders: A Cultural History by André de Vries (Amazon).
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MARK ELLIOTT AND HELENA SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: IAN DAGNALL/ ALAMY, MARTIN MOXTER/IMAGEBROKER/SUPERSTOCK, FRANCESCO PALERMO/ALAMY, GARDEL BERTRAND/HEMIS.FR/GETTY, SVEN LAURENT, CHRIS HOWES/WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY
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Friday EVENING IN THE PARK
Café culture on the main street of the Haga neighbourhood
MINI GUIDE
Weekend in Gothenburg Often in Stockholm’s shadow, Sweden’s chilled-out second city (Göteborg in Swedish) is a cosmopolitan port with historic canals, cutting-edge art and bags of weekend appeal.
Saturday
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MARITIMAN The world’s largest floating ship museum includes fishing boats, a lightship and a firefighter, all linked by walkways. Shin down into the 69m-long submarine Nordkaparen for a glimpse into underwater warfare. Inside the labyrinthine destroyer Småland, in service from 1956 to 1979, hunched figures listen to crackling radio messages, and the bunks look just-slept-in (maritiman.se; Packhuskajen; 10am–6pm Jun–Aug, 11am– 5pm May & Sep, see website for Oct–Apr dates; US$13).
THÖRNSTRÖMS KÖK For a lesson in modern Swedish cuisine, splash out for dinner at this Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Håkan Thörnström presents flawless dishes using local, seasonal ingredients, such as sweetbreads with hazelnut and cured perch with rhubarb. Tasting menus are available, along with à la carte (thornstromskok.com; Teknologgatan 3; 6pm–1am, from 5pm Fri–Sat, closed Sun; mains from US$35, four-course menu US$75).
Enjoy long Scandinavian summer evenings at Trädgårdsföreningen
NOBA NORDIC BAR With ye olde maps of Scandinavia on the walls and a glassed-over beer patio with birch tree stumps for stools, this bar takes its Nordic beers very seriously. From Iceland’s Freyja to Denmark’s K:rlek, you name it, this bar’s got it. Free-flowing whiskies liven up the scene on weekends (noba.nu; Viktoriagatan 1a; 5pm–midnight Sun–Mon, 4pm–1am Tue–Thu, 4pm–3am Fri–Sat; tap beers from US$5, bottled beer from US$7).
Sunday
CITY BOAT TOUR Gothenburg’s old moat and canals date back to the 17th century and a boat tour offers a fascinating view of the city. Open-top boats glide under low bridges and then slip out into the harbour amid traditional shipyards. Strömma offers a hop-on hop-off Paddan boat ticket (early Jul–late Aug), valid for 24 hours, and other tours the rest of the year (stromma.se; hop-on hop-off ticket US$22).
The Trädgårdsföreningen (Garden Society) is a large park off Nya Allén that locals have been taking a turn in since 1842. Full of flowers and tiny cafés, it’s also home to a big rosarium and the gracious 19th-century Palmhuset (Palm House): look out for the camellia collection and two-metre-wide lily pads (tradgardsforeningen.se; Nya Allén; 7am–8pm May–Sep, to 6pm Oct–Apr; free).
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BROWSING IN HAGA
A boat tour takes in the charms of Gothenburg’s waterways
GÖTEBORGS KONSTMUSEUM Scandinavian masters such as Bruno Liljefors, Edvard Munch, Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson have pride of place in the city’s premier art collection, and the gallery also hosts works by Impressionists, Rubens, Van Gogh, Rembrandt and Picasso. Other highlights include a superb sculpture hall, photography exhibitions and new Nordic art (konstmuseum. goteborg.se; Götaplatsen; 11am–6pm Tue & Thu, to 8pm Wed, to 5pm Fri–Sun; US$5).
The Haga neighbourhood is the city’s oldest suburb, dating from 1648. A hardcore hippie hang-out in the 1960s and 1970s, its cobbled streets and vintage buildings are now a blend of cafés, vintage shops and boutiques. During some summer weekends and at Christmas, store owners set up stalls along the central street of Haga Nygata, turning the district into one big market.
HEMMA HOS With a smooth black bar and comfortable tables, this Haga restaurant-bar manages to be both urbane and relaxed. Its selection of small plates is decidedly gourmet – slowcooked pork with apple chutney or goat’s cheese with honey and pine nuts – and there’s good wine by the glass (hemmahoshaga.se; Haga Nygata 12; Mon–Thu 4pm– 11pm, Fri 3pm–late, Sat noon– late, Sun noon–10pm; mains from US$15).
Gothenburg’s creative spirit is on show at Röda Sten (Red Stone)
RÖDA STEN Inside a defunct, graffitied power station beside the Älvsborgsbron – the big bridge across the Göta älv downsteam from the city centre – Röda Sten’s four floors are home to temporary exhibitions from international artists that push boundaries. The indie-style café hosts live music, stand-up comedy and even boxing matches (rodasten.com; noon–5pm Tue–Sun, to 7pm Wed, check website for temporary closures; US$5).
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MINI GUIDE Weekend in Gothenburg
Gothenburg essentials
Drinking
Sights
Eating
Sleeping
The know-how DISCOUNT CARDS
TRANSPORT Göteborg Landvetter Airport is 12 miles east of Gothenburg, and a two-hour flight from Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester and Stansted with BA (and BA franchise Sun Air), Norwegian and Ryanair. The Flygbuss runs to the city centre every 15–20 minutes and costs US$10 one-way (flygbussarna.se). The most convenient way around town is by tram. Colour-coded lines converge near central Brunnsparken square. Travel is free for Gothenburg Pass holders (see The know-how); one- and three-day travel cards (US$9/US$20; vasttrafik.se) can work out cheaper than buying single-trip tickets.
WHERE TO STAY IQ Suites offers industrial-chic apartments in a 19th-century brick building. Rooms come with bathrobes, hot tubs and wellequipped kitchens, and outside there’s a lovely garden (iqsuites. com; Besvärsgatan 3; from US$73). 92
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Stay in one of Sweden’s highest hotel rooms at Upper House
Fabulous Hotel Flora’s 65 individually themed rooms flaunt designer details. Some of them offer river views and those on the top floor have air-con. There’s also a split-level courtyard for those long summer days (hotelflora.se; Grönsakstorget 2; from US$145). Upper House takes up the top floors of one of the Gothia Towers. The sumptuous décor is pure Scandinavian chic, the spa comes with a hammam and there’s a 19th-floor pool with killer views over the city (upperhouse.se; Mässans Gata 24; from US$315).
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Gothenburg City Card Great for intensive sightseeing, this pass (pictured below) gives free access to most museums and Liseberg amusement park, plus many free tours and unlimited travel on public transport. It’s sold at tourist offices, selected hotels, Pressbyrån newsagents and online at goteborg.com (24/48/72-hour pass US$42/59/75; reduced price Oct–Apr). Gothenburg Package The Göteborgspaketet offers hotel rooms, with nightly prices starting at US$73 per person, and also includes the Gothenburg City Card, plus bonuses such as afternoon tea; book online in advance (goteborg.com). Museum Annual Pass For just US$5, one annual ticket covers the Göteborgs Konstmuseum, Stadsmuseum, Sjöfartsmuseet, Naturhistoriska Museet and Röhsska Museet. You can buy the ticket at any of the five.
FURTHER READING Gothenburg and southwest Sweden are covered in Lonely Planet’s Sweden (US$24.99), and this chapter can be downloaded individually at lonelyplanet. com (US$4.95). See goteborg.com for more about the city. Said to have inspired Stieg Larsson and Ian Rankin, among others, the 1960s Martin Beck detective series by Maj Sjöwall and Per Wahlöö is considered a classic and the granddaddy of Scandinavian crime fiction; try Roseanna, the first in the series.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ANNA KAMINSKI. PHOTOGRAPHS: NICHOLAS DOWLING/ ALAMY, GOTHIA TOWERS & UPPER HOUSE, RÖDA STEN PHOTO MERETE LASSEN MIMMI ANDERSSON HOUSE OF OPPOSITES, STOCK CONNECTION/SUPERSTOCK
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La Rambla/Barri Gòtic EL INGENIO
Plaça Reial (Royal Plaza) in the Barri Gòtic
ZOEN
MINI GUIDE
Shopping in Barcelona A historic obsession with architecture and design has created a city built on style, most evident in its array of designer boutiques, one-off stores and shopping high streets.
El Raval/La Ribera COQUETTE
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El Born in La Ribera is stuffed with designer boutiques, and Coquette is one of the most revered. Its pared-back look makes this ‘concept store’ an attractive place to browse. It stocks casual feminine wear by labels such as Humanoid, Vanessa Bruno, Uke and Hoss Intropia (Carrer del Rec 65; 11am–3pm & 5–9pm Mon–Fri, 11.30am–9pm Sat).
MERCAT DE LA BOQUERIA No Barcelona shopping trip would be complete without a pitstop at the Mercat de la Boqueria in El Raval. This central produce market is housed in a Modernistainfluenced building, spilling over with picnic provisions including sea critters, sausages, cheeses, the finest Jabugo ham and sweets. It’s a classic, if touristy, Barcelona experience – visit in the morning to explore minus the crowds (boqueria. info; La Rambla 91; closed Sun).
This institution – a whimsical fantasy, old-time toy and joke shop – just off La Rambla, is crammed with Venetian masks, marionettes, theatrical accessories, wild costumes, yo-yos, kazoos, unicycles and other novelty items. The family workshop makes papier-mâché models used in many Catalan festivals (el-ingenio.net; Carrer d’en Rauric 6; closed Sun).
Marionettes of various cultural icons inhabit El Ingenio
CERERÍA SUBIRÀ
In the heart of the old Jewish quarter, Zoen is a tiny shop selling finely crafted leather goods made onsite in its public workshop. It specialises in men’s and women’s accessories with an earthy yet contemporary look and feel. Handbags, wallets, belts, book covers and satchels are among the one-of-a-kind wares for sale (zoen.es; Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call 15; closed Sun).
Cerería Subirà has been churning out candles and wax creations since 1761 and is claimed to be oldest shop in Barcelona. The interior of its store has a voluptuous, baroque quality; even if you’re not interested in myriad mounds of colourful wax, it’s worth popping in for a gawp at the olde-worlde setting (Baixada de la Llibreteria 7; closed Sun).
L’Eixample
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BAGUÉS-MASRIERA
Jamon galore on display and for sale at Mercat de la Boqueria
HOLALA! PLAZA This Ibiza import in El Raval, inspired by the Balearic island’s long-established hippie tradition, is an excellent hunting ground for vintage treasures with one of the best selections of secondhand clothing in the city. It also hosts an exhibition space for temporary art displays and live music performances. Just south of here there’s a cluster of stores selling more pre-loved threads on Carrer de la Riera Baixa (holala-ibiza.com; Plaça de Castella 2; closed Sun).
This high-end jewellery store is a star amid a sea of big-name brands on premier shopping boulevard, Passeig de Gràcia. In business since the 19th century, it takes inspiration from its location in the Modernista Casa Amatller, and next to Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, with some of its classic pieces exhibiting an equally playful bent (bagues-masriera.es; Passeig de Gràcia 41; closed Sun).
EL BULEVARD DELS ANTIQUARIS This labyrinth of tiny antique shops merits a morning’s browsing, gathering more than 70 stores under one roof (on the floor above the Bulevard Rosa arcade) to offer the city’s most varied selection of collector’s pieces, ranging from old porcelain dolls through to fine crystal and African art (bulevarddelsantiquaris.com; Passeig de Gràcia 55; closed Sun).
One of many art galleries within El Bulevard dels Antiquaris
LURDES BERGADA The grid of streets either side of Passeig de Gràcia supports chic local designers who capture the essence of Barcelona cool, including this boutique run by mother-and-son designer team Lurdes Bergadà and Syngman Cucala. Its relaxed, classy men’s and women’s fashions use natural fibres and have attracted a cult following (lurdesbergada. es; Bulevard Rosa, Passeig de Gràcia 55; closed Sun).
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MINI GUIDE Shopping in Barcelona
Barcelona essentials
The know-how MODERNISTA TRAIL
TRANSPORT Fly to Barcelona via its El Prat airport on British Airways from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur with one stop in London Heathrow (ba.com; from US$639). The quickest way to get into town from El Prat is with RENFE trains, which leave every half hour and take about 25 minutes to reach Passeig de Gràcia (single US$4.60; renfe.com/EN/ viajeros). Taxis from the airport cost about US$35. Barcelona’s metro is the most convenient way to get around town; singles cost US$2.40 per ride but the T-10 (10-ride pass) offers better value at US$11.15.
WHERE TO STAY Quirky and colourful interiors hit you from the second you walk into the foyer of Chic & Basic Ramblas in El Raval. Each room has a small kitchen and superior doubles come with balconies (chicandbasicramblashotel.com; Passatge Gutenberg 7; from 94
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Rooms at Chic & Basic Ramblas are designed with a ’60s theme
US$105). Suites Avenue provides fancy apartment-style living secreted behind a daring façade. The apartments are good value and include private kitchens and access to a terrace, gym and pool (suitesavenue.com; Passeig de Gràcia 83; from US$160). Tranquil Hotel Neri occupies a beautifully adapted, centuriesold building in the Gothic Quarter, with timber furnishings and stone-clad bathrooms. There’s a bedding menu, and a roof deck (hotelneri.com; Carrer de Sant Sever 5; from US$230).
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Masterpieces to look out for: O Palau de la Música Catalana This concert hall in La Ribera is a symphony in tile, brick, stone and stained glass (Carrer de Sant Francesc de Paula 2). O Casa Amatller Extraordinary gabled house by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, on Passeig de Gràcia. O Casa Batlló (below) A 1904 Gaudí creation with the look of a slumbering bony dragon. O Fundació Antoni Tapiès A building by Lluís Domènech i Montaner with Islamic-inspired details (Carrer d’Aragó 255). O La Pedrera A wave-emulating Gaudí apartment block with distinct rooftop chimneys. O Casa Thomas A 1912 design by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, with oversized wrought-iron decoration signposting the shop window of interior design store Cubiñá (Carrer de Mallorca 293).
FURTHER READING Lonely Planet publishes an in-depth Barcelona city guide (US$21.99) and a smaller Pocket Barcelona (US$13.99), ideal for quick trips. Shopikon.com/ Barcelona presents a curated list of Barcelona’s independent shops by neighbourhood. Homage to Catalonia (US$6.99; Amazon) is George Orwell’s classic personal account of his involvement fighting for a communist faction in the early days of the Spanish Civil War, set in and around Barcelona.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM REGIS ST LOUIS, SALLY DAVIES AND ANDY SYMINGTON. PHOTOGRAPHS: LUIGI VACCARELLA/SIME/4 CORNERS, DAVID RAMOS/GETTY IMAGES, MARK AVELLINO/GETTY IMAGES, INVICTUS SARL/ALAMY
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Experiences on water GEIRANGERFJORD FERRY TRIP
Seven Sisters Falls cascading into Geirangerfjord
MINI GUIDE
Nordic Ventures offers single or double sea kayak fjord tours
KAYAKING NÆRØYFJORD AND HARDANGERFJORD
SPEED BOAT ON SOGNEFJORDEN
Norway’s fjords provide a dreamy backdrop for Scandinavian spring getaways starring quaint historic villages, panoramic walking trails and water-based fun.
Nordic Ventures runs guided tours, including one-day trips with lunch, overnight adventures with a chance to camp by the water’s edge, and three-day expeditions offering a combination of kayaking and hiking. The Voss-based company also rents kayaks if you’d rather strike out alone (nordicventures. com; guided tours from US$80, one-day kayak rental US$72).
To see more of the fjords in less time, take an exhilarating scoot through parts of this vast fjord network in an inflatable boat (full-length waterproof kit supplied – you’ll need it). The trips, run by Fjord Safari in Flåm, can include wildlife spotting, talks about the fjords’ heritage, or a village pitstop for cheese-tasting (fjordsafari.com; tours from US$72).
Best walks
History & culture
Fjords in Norway
TROLLTUNGA DAY HIKE Trolltunga is a narrow finger of rock that protrudes over the void high above Ringedalsvatnet lake in the Hardangerfjord region. The trail starts at Skjeggedal, from where Trolltunga and its picture-postcard views are an eight- to 10-hour return hike away. En route, look out for the Tyssestrengene waterfall (trail open June–September). Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
This king of fjords is a Unesco World Heritage site in Norway’s southwest and the 10-mile chug through it has to be one of the world’s loveliest ferry journeys. Long-abandoned farmsteads still cling to the fjord’s near-sheer cliffs, while ice-cold cascades tumble, twist and gush down to emeraldgreen waters (geirangerfjord.no; from US$27).
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OTTERNES
Hiking the ancient track through the Aurlandsdalen Valley
This restored hamlet, high above the fjord between Flåm and Aurland, is a working farm and living museum. The oldest buildings date from the early 17th century and were lived in until the 1990s. There are tours and a café dishing up coffee, pancakes and rømmegrøt, a rich porridge served with cured meat (otternes. no; admission/tour US$6/ US$9.70; open Jun–Sep).
Urnes Stave Church is a Unesco World Heritage Site
PREIKESTOLEN SHORT HIKE
AURLANDSDALEN VALLEY FOUR-DAY HIKE
URNES STAVE CHURCH
BALESTRAND’S VIKINGAGE BARROWS
With astonishingly uniform cliffs on three sides, plunging 604m to the fjord below, ‘Pulpit Rock’ is one of southwest Norway’s most emblematic images. It’s an unrivalled fjord vantage point, with views directly up Lysefjord. The steep, two-hour, 2.4-mile trail leading there is well marked and leaves from Preikestolhytta Vandrerhjem. The final climb involves a scramble across granite slabs and along some windy cliffs (trail open all year).
This classic culture-rich and nature-abundant trek, from Geiteryggen to Aurland through a 25-mile glacial valley, follows a stream from source to sea and traverses one of the oldest trading routes between eastern and western Norway. The final section, from Østerbø (820m) to Vassbygdi (95m), is the most scenic and also makes for a hugely enjoyable day hike (allow six to seven hours; trail open June–September).
Norway’s oldest preserved place of worship perches in a sublime spot gazing out over Lustrafjord. The original church was built around 1130, while most of today’s structure was built a century later. Elaborate wooden carvings decorate the north wall, and ticket prices include an interesting 45-minute tour. To get here, take the hourly ferry from Solvorn (open May–Sep; US$11).
Just half a mile south from the small fjord-side holiday resort of Balestrand, excavation of a pair of barrows has revealed remnants of a Viking boat, two skeletons, jewellery and several weapons. One mound is topped by a statue of legendary King Bele, erected by Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II. Obsessed with Nordic mythology, he regularly spent his holidays here.
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MINI GUIDE Fjords in Norway
Norway essentials
Sights
Sleeping
The know-how ESCAPE THE CROWDS
TRANSPORT Norway’s fjords principally occupy the west and southwestern portion of the country, where there are airports at Flesland (Bergen), Sola (Stavanger) and Vigra (Ålesund). BA flies from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur via London Heathrow to Bergen and Stavanger. Reach Ålesund on KLM via Amsterdam. Norway has an extremely efficient public-transport system. Trains, buses and ferries are often timed to link with each other. The fjords are criss-crossed by an extensive network of car ferries, but expect long queues and delays in summer.
WHERE TO STAY A beautiful old working farm, Westerås Gard sits high above Geiranger, and features two farmhouse apartments, five pine-clad cabins and a restaurant serving homegrown produce (geiranger.no; open May–Sep; from US$100). 96
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Preikestolen Fjellstue’s newest lodge serves up local produce
Preikestolen Fjellstue is a mountain lodge worthy of its natural surroundings, right at the trailhead to Pulpit Rock above Lysefjord. Options include stylishly simple lodge rooms and family cottages (preikestolen fjellstue.no; from US$64). The historic wooden Utne Hotel was built in 1722 and offers smart, modern interiors, as well as older public spaces with beautiful original woodwork, enhanced by attractive antiques, local textiles and paintings (utnehotel.no; from US$183).
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O Solvorn Near some of Sognefjorden’s best hiking, biking and paddling, Solvorn is spectacularly sited, fetchingly pretty and quiet as a mouse. O Undredal Tucked between Flåm and Gudvangen, this is a lovely little village (pictured below), whose traditional feel has been preserved. O Evanger This tiny village makes a blissfully peaceful alternative to nearby Voss. It has a delightful toy-town feel, with restored wooden houses and a gorgeous setting by a lake. O Utne In Hardangerfjord, picturesque Utne is famous for its fruit growing and pristine traditional streets. O Rosendal Separated from Hardangerfjord by high mountains and the Folgefonna efo National Park, Rosendal sits picturesquely by the fjord with a close backdrop of high hills.
FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Norway (US$24.99) has in-depth coverage of the country’s fjords, plus essays on landscape, geology and activities; individual chapters can be downloaded at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95). The Norwegian Environment Agency runs environment.no, covering local environment issues, policies and statistics. Fellowship of Ghosts by Paul Watkins details adventures through Norway’s fjords and mountains (Picador).
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ANTHONY HAM, STUART BUTLER AND DONNA WHEELER. PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES, NORDIC VENTURES, LUIGI VACCARELLA/SIME/4CORNERS, SVERRE HJØRNEVIK/VISIT NORWAY, ZOONAR/R. PANTKE/AGEFOTOSTOCK
Information & Transport
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History NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMERICAN HISTORY
The centrepiece at this popular Smithsonian member is the flag that inspired The Star-Spangled Banner, the US national anthem. Other highlights include Abraham Lincoln’s top hat and Dorothy’s slippers from The Wizard of Oz (americanhistory.si.edu; cnr 14th St & Constitution Ave NW; 10am–5.30pm, see website for extended hours calendar; free).
An elephantine welcome at the National Museum of Natural History
MINI GUIDE
US HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE
Largely thanks to the heavy-hitting and multibranched Smithsonian Institution, America’s capital has become synonymous with worldclass museums worth planning a trip around.
This harrowing museum deepens understanding of the Holocaust – its victims, perpetrators and bystanders. The galleries use artefacts, historic film footage and witness testimonies. Between March and August, you will need a museum pass to see the permanent exhibition: book well ahead online (ushmm.org; 100 Raoul Wallenberg Pl SW; 10am–5.15pm; entry free, booking US$1).
Kid-friendly
Off the beaten track
Museums in Washington DC
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Egyptian mummies, a giant squid, and tarantula feedings thrill young minds at this universally loved venue. Don’t miss the 45-carat Hope Diamond (a rare blue type), the Easter Island heads and the enormous stuffed creatures in the Mammal Hall (mnh.si.edu; cnr 10th St & Constitution Ave NW; 10am– 5.30pm, see website for extended hours calendar; free). Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
Ruby slippers at the National Museum of American History
NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM
The newest Smithsonian museum covers the diverse experience of African Americans with exhibits that include Louis Armstrong’s trumpet. The swish new building will be open by time of publishing (nmaahc. si.edu; 1400 Constitution Ave NW; 10am–5.30pm; timed passes must be reserved online – free).
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DEA MUSEUM
See milestones of flight at the National Air and Space Museum
NEWSEUM
Budding journalists will love that this museum, charting the Another popular Smithsonian history of news and journalism, highlight, this museum inspires offers the chance to report ‘live kids with moon rocks, spaceships from the White House’ via the and wild simulator rides. TV studio (and get the Everyone flocks to see the take-home video to prove it). Wright brothers’ flyer, Amelia The rest is impressive for kids Earhart’s natty red plane and the and adults alike, with Pulitzer Apollo 11 Lunar Module. There’s Prize-winning photojournalism, also an on-site IMAX cinema and a 9/11 gallery and reams of planetarium, plus a super-size interesting footage on historic annexe 23 miles out of town news events, such as Hurricane (airandspace.si.edu; 600 Katrina (newseum.org; 555 Independence Ave SW; 10am– Pennsylvania Ave NW; 5.30pm, see website for 9am–5pm; adults/children over extended hours calendar; free). 6 US$22.95/US$13.95).
Nuance is not on the agenda at this museum showcasing the War on Drugs, brought to you by the Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA). Exhibits cover the last century-and-a-half of drug use, including Nancy Reagan’s ‘Just Say No’ commercials from the 1980s and relics from old opium dens (deamuseum.org; 700 Army Navy Dr, entrance on S Hayes St; 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, closed Sat– Mon; free).
The hilltop Frederick Douglass National Historic Site
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WOMEN IN THE ARTS
FREDERICK DOUGLASS HOUSE
The only US museum exclusively devoted to women’s artwork fills this Renaissance Revival mansion. Its collection – more than 4,000 works – moves from Renaissance artists such as Lavinia Fontana to 20th-century pieces by Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keeffe and Helen Frankenthaler (nmwa.org; 1250 New York Ave; 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, from noon Sun; adults/below 18 US$10/US$8).
Escaped slave, abolitionist, author and statesman Frederick Douglass occupied this beautifully sited house from 1877 until his death in 1895. Original furnishings, books, photographs and other personal belongings paint a compelling portrait of this great man. The museum is a bus ride from the city centre, and visits are by guided tour (nps.gov/frdo; 1411 W St SE, Anacostia; free, US$1 to book online).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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MINI GUIDE Museums in Washington DC
Washington essentials
The know-how IN MEMORIAM
TRANSPORT Washington Dulles airport is 24 miles west of central DC. Fly on Qatar via Doha or United with one stopover in San Francisco or Chicago from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur (united.com). From Dulles, the Silver Line Express bus runs to WiehleReston East metro station, from where it’s possible to catch a train to the city centre, taking 60–75 minutes in all (bus US$5; flydulles.com/iad/aboutwashington-flyer). A taxi from the airport is US$60–US$68. Fares on DC’s metro system start at US$1.70 (wmata.com). SmarTrip cards entitle users to US$1 off the paper metro fare.
WHERE TO STAY On a shady residential street in the lively suburb of Adams Morgan, Adam’s Inn has inviting, homey rooms in two adjacent townhouses and a carriage house, plus a garden patio (adamsinn. com; 1746 Lanier Pl; from US$89). 98
Sleeping
The George is one of the best boutique hotels in Washington
Chester A Arthur House B&B offers four rooms in a beautiful row house. The 1883 abode is stuffed with crystal chandeliers, antique oil paintings, oriental rugs and a mahogany panelled staircase (chesterarthurhouse. com; 23 Logan Circle NW; US$145). Chrome-and-glass furniture and modern art frame the bold interior of The George. Its Capitol Hill location is perfect for museum sightseeing. There’s also a limited number of free bicycles available for guests (hotelgeorge. com; 15 E St NW; from US$309).
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
DC is the USA’s memorial capital; don’t miss these: O Lincoln Memorial Abraham Lincoln (pictured below) gazes peacefully along the Mall from his Doric-columned temple. O Vietnam Veterans Memorial Simple and moving, this black wall reflects the names of the Vietnam War’s 58,000 or more Americans who gave their lives. O Martin Luther King Memorial Dr King’s likeness emerges from a mountain of granite. O National WWII Memorial Soaring columns and stirring quotes mark this memorial smack in the Mall’s midst. O Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial FDR’s monument is an oasis of alcoves, fountains and contemplative inscriptions. O Marine Corps War Memorial A statue group recreates the famous photo showing the capture of the Japanese island of Iwo Jima in 1945.
FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Washington DC (US$19.99) has in-depth coverage of DC’s museums, while Pocket Washington DC (US$13.99) and Make My Day Washington DC (US$9.99) are more condensed guides. The Smithsonian app (si.edu/ apps/smithsonianmobile ) is a handy tool to search the institution’s collections and access tours and podcasts. Empire of Mud by JD Dickey (Amazon) is an account of tenements, slave trading and corrupt politics in the capital’s early days.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KARLA ZIMMERMAN AND REGIS ST LOUIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: JOE VOGAN/ALAMY, JAMES DI LORETO/SMITHSONIAN, ERIC LONG/NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM, SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, RON BLUNT, SMITH COLLECTION/GADO/GETTY IMAGES
Sights
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
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Travel Quiz
What on Earth?
1 2
Which city holds its Regata Storica on 4 September?
Bobotie (curried minced meat with a baked egg topping) is a national dish of which country?
Which country (in its current shape since 1993) combines the historic lands of Bohemia, Moravia and a small part of Silesia?
5
Cape Canaveral is in which US state?
8 9
7
Which is the only country that begins Which country has a name with an O? meaning ‘rich coast’ in Spanish?
Which former Soviet republic, 25 years independent this September, is home to the ancient cities of Samarkand and Bukhara?
1) NORWAY. 2) VENICE. 3) SOUTH AFRICA. 4) CZECH REPUBLIC. 5) FLORIDA. 6) JUST ONE – RUSSIA. 7) COSTA RICA. 8) UZBEKISTAN. 9) PORTUGUESE.
YOU WANT ANSWERS? 100
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
If you’re travelling overland between Finland and China, how many other countries do you need to cross at a minimum?
If Englishspeakers are called Anglophones, and French-speakers Francophones, what do the world’s 260 million Lusophones speak?
COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPHS: BLEND IMAGES/ALAMY, TONY EVANS/GETTY, JONATHAN GREGSON, SIMEONE HUBER/GETTY, HUGH JOHNSON/GETTY, LIFE ON WHITE/ALAMY, DUDAREV MIKHAIL/ SHUTTERSTOCK, EDWARD SLATER/GETTY, ULLSTEIN BILD/GETTY, DANIEL VRABEC/ALAMY
It’s 100 years since the writer Roald Dahl was born in Cardiff. Which country did his parents come from?
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