rembrandt.co.nz
EDITION FOUR
SPRING SUMMER 2015
CLARIFICATION OF
Construction
A SARTORIAL
Celebration
RACE DAY STYLE
A Sure Thing
AUCKLAND CITY STORE
Opening Soon
Napoli jacket BO33/75
Sinatra shirt SB10/75
Italian silk tie TIE152-25
Lapel pin
Gresham-Lotus suit BO37/85
Santiago shirt SA76/80
Italian silk tie TIE151-45
Linen pocket square PSQ49-01
SHOWCASING
Gresham-Lotus
Italian inspired lapel and collar provide a look of elegance and masculinity.
Half canvas construction. Learn more on page 9.
The slim fitting single breasted jacket offers a comfortable and flattering fit.
Slim fit trouser ensures fashion meets comfort.
With its half canvas craftsmanship, comfortable slim fit and considered selection of luxurious fabrics, it is no surprise that the Gresham-Lotus suit is one of our most popular choices and a wise investment this season. The suit is showcased here in a pure wool, super 120s, tropical weave from the oldest woollen mill in the world, Vitale Barberis Canonico. This graphic, monochrome check exemplifies their expertise, drawn from more than 350 years of weaving history. They’re masters at taking classic English fabric designs and updating them in an unexpected and thoroughly modern way. We’ve transformed this beautiful fabric into a striking suit, one with a strength of character that’s confident but never conceited. We’re sure it’ll have a place in your wardrobe for many years.
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Style Counsel The best tailoring looks simple at first glance but complicated the more you look at it. We’ve effortlessly combined four different patterns (check, stripe, plain, and paisley) because only one of them seeks the limelight: think of the red paisley tie as the lead singer while the suit, shirt and pocket square form the rest of the band.
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1. Cooper jacket $599
Style Counsel Plain plus stripe plus check: a recipe for sartorial success. We’ve selected a plain shirt, striped tie and check suit but any combination of these three patterns will be successful (providing you follow our next piece of advice). Stick to three colours (excluding your belt and shoes) and you’ll always be onto a winner.
BO91/75
2. Italian linen pocket square $49 PSQ47-79
3. Italian navy oxford $399
SHO22-79
4. Monk belt $89
BLT14-79
5. Italian silk tie $99
TIE267-45
6. Metropolis shirt $129 SV72/01
Purchase 2 Suits Get $300 off*
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Work at it. Dressing for the office doesn’t need to be an added stress to your week, you just need to be organised.
Crafted to perfection in New Zealand. Rembrandt’s expertise in tailoring relies on the skill, knowledge and experience of our people, like Gerard Deleare, who work in our factory and head office in New Zealand. There are a multitude of suit brands to choose from today but we’re confident you won’t find a local company that comes close to Rembrandt’s level of expertise. A big part of that expertise is the skill, knowledge and experience of our people, like Gerard Deleare.
What is Canvas? Although you will often see the term “horsehair canvas” used by suit brands, the canvas fabrics used in the construction of men’s jackets are actually made of a blend of fibres.
Tailoring runs in Gerard’s blood; both parents and all of his five siblings are tailors. Gerard began his career with a tailoring apprenticeship with his father at age 13 and has a career spanning more than 50 years devoted to menswear. He joined Rembrandt in 1996 as Technical Design Manager, a role he still holds.
The most common fibres used are animal hair, with the hair from the tail of a horse preferred because of its resilience. Rembrandt selects canvas containing horse hair blended with wool, cotton and other fibres. Blending different fibres creates canvases with diverse handle and drape. There are numerous types of canvas and each canvas is used according to the performance required in specific areas of the chest piece.
Gerard shares with us some of his knowledge; he takes us inside our jackets and sheds light on the materials and construction methods we use.
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Canvas is the Skeleton. The canvas is to the jacket what the skeleton is to the body; it forms the frame that will help shape the front of the jacket and support the cloth. The form is obtained from cutting various shapes of different types of canvas, adding darts and wedges and then moulding with steam and heat. The result is a shape that mimics the wearer’s chest and front shoulder. At Rembrandt we use two construction methods for our jacket chest pieces, each with a different method of applying the canvas; one is known as a floating chest piece and the other is known as half canvas construction.
TWO TYPES OF
Construction
Half canvas. In this method, the main canvas extends over the lapel and down the front of the jacket, ending in line with the pocket. To minimise thickness and optimise roll, the body fuse is cut away from the lapel. The canvas is skilfully padded (which is tailoring lingo for stitching) on to the front whilst the operator “rolls” the lapel. The result is a lapel roll that is aesthetically pleasing due to it’s added relience. The superior quality of the half canvas jacket is the product of finer materials and exceptional craftsmanship. This level of construction is offered in our made to measure service and in our Gresham-Lotus suit (refer page 5).
The canvas is to the jacket what the skeleton is to the body.
Gerard Deleare, Rembrandt’s Technical Design Manager
Floating chest piece. The canvas fills the whole chest and front shoulder area of the jacket but stops slightly away and parallel to the break line of the lapel – this leaves the lapel “canvas free”. A jacket with a floating chest piece has a soft lapel, the chest is beautifully moulded and the shoulder is well stabilized. The lapel shaping is formed by the use of a special lapel press to give a subtle roll. This type of construction is primarily used for our readyto-wear collection because it provides an exceptional level of finish whilst maintaining an affordable addition to your seasonal wardrobe.
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Bryan jacket $599 BO34/47
Santiago shirt $149 SB22/01
Bow tie $49 BWT10-99
Italian silk pocket square $49 PSQ93-79
A SARTORIAL
Celebration Black Tie is our forte. Whether you’re a seasoned Black Tie dresser or this is your first time to shine at an awards night, we will ensure you stand out for the right reasons. Ready-to-wear. We can create a look suitable for any event and your level of taste from our new season’s collection. The Bryan jacket’s slim shawl collar perfectly balances tradition and modernity. It is available in black, blue and this season, the Pantone colour of the year, marsala. Made to measure. No garment feels better than one that’s been crafted to your individual requirements, right here in New Zealand. Perfect if you are after a very unique look and are accustomed to the luxury of a made to measure garment.
Style Counsel A gentleman is always a respectful guest and that means respecting the host’s dress code. If an invitation states Black Tie it means that the only appropriate thing to wear is Black Tie, please don’t think that a dark suit cuts the mustard, even if it’s worn with a bow tie.
Bow tie Don’t be tempted to wear a slim black tie, save that for a less formal occasion. White shirt Ideally with French cuffs and Marcella front. A standard collar will provide a sophisticated and modern look. Black satin lapels A slim shawl collar perfectly balances tradition and modernity.
Black or midnight fabric Or for a less traditional approach, consider a brighter blue or fashion colour.
Black satin braid Tradition dictates the trouser should have black braid down the side seam.
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Hire wear. Because they’re made with the same care, quality and attention to detail as all our suits, no one will ever know it’s not yours. Select from the shawl collar Bogart jacket, the notch lapel Redford dinner jacket, then match it with the Lautner formal trouser and a vest. Hire a crisp white shirt (or buy one from our ready to wear collection) and you’re almost there… The final flourish. Complete your Black Tie attire with your choice of accessories available in-store and online. A bow tie, perfectly polished black shoes and a tasteful pocket square.
Best foot forward. Jonathon Hall is Rembrandt’s Design Manager. He is responsible for sourcing, designing and developing the fabrics, garments and accessories that make up our collections. He’s also a sucker for a good pair of shoes. Rembrandt is famous for suits; they’re in our blood. We also know that the best suit can be ruined with a bad pair of shoes, which is why several seasons ago, we started the hunt for our own shoe suppliers; our hunt lead us to Milan. The Micam shoe exhibition in Milan is the perfect opportunity to see new collections from our suppliers: like-minded people who share our commitment to quality raw materials, design and manufacturing. The designs we selected will become part of our new collection and arrive in store in 2016. The majority of Rembrandt’s footwear, including all dress shoes, are produced using the Blake method of construction.
Blake construction. This is a method of making shoes where the outer sole is directly stitched to the insole in one continuous row of stitching. This allows for a finer sole and a lighter shoe, therefore providing more flexibility and a shoe that is comfortable right from its first wear. It’s easy to see why this construction method is favoured by the Italians and has since been adopted by many other countries including Portugal. Value. Buying a pair of Rembrandt shoes ensures you are getting the best pair of shoes your money can buy. We focus on all-leather styles with classic details that complement our tailoring perfectly. All shoes come with an extra pair of laces, because if you care for them properly, you’ll wear the first pair out.
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Care tips: • Use a shoehorn. It stops the back of the shoe from being bent out of shape or stretched. Most Rembrandt shoes come with a shoe-horn included. • Invest in a pair of cedar-wood shoe trees. Putting shoe trees in your shoes after you take them off will help minimise any creases in the leather, wick away moisture and reduce odour. • Never wear your shoes two days in a row, just like a suit, shoes need time to rest and recover to maximise their life. • Our leather soled shoes are perfect for lounging around inside or from car to door but if you rack up a little more foot mileage than this and wear them in the wet, we suggest taking your shoes to your local cobbler to have rubber soles added.
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1. Italian double monk $399 SHO12-59 2. Shoe-horn Complimentary with Rembrandt shoes 3. Italian navy oxford $399 SHO22-79
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4. Italian tan brogue $399 SHO08-50 5. Italian socks $29 SCO18-79 6. Cedar shoe trees $79 7. Shoe bag Complimentary with Rembrandt shoes
Jonathon Hall, Rembrandt’s Design Manager.
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Using a shoe-horn and shoe trees can double the life of your shoes.
Clean and polish your shoes regularly. The thought of polishing them is worse than the actual task. Store your shoes in the provided shoe bag when travelling, this will keep your clothes clean and it can be used to give your shoes a quick polish.
Style Counsel Everyone knows that your shoes and belt should always match but as the Dalai Lama once said “Know the rules well, so you can break them effectively.”
Buying shoes for a marathon, not a sprint. Jonathon’s top tips for ensuring you buy shoes that will go the distance: 1. Buy the best shoes you can afford. 2. Buy leather shoes with leather linings and leather soles. 3. Care for them well. 4. Buy classic styles.
For a more modern or casual look, try matching your belt to your trousers, that leaves your shoes free to walk to the beat of their own drum.
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Style Counsel
If you’re wearing a check shirt with a check jacket or suit, remember to keep the scale and type of checks different; in this case we’ve combined a larger scale check with a micro check.
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1. Halcyon jacket $549 BO79/75
2. Italian linen/silk tie $99 TIE282-40
3. Beck trouser $219 BP02/79
4. Brosnan shirt $129 SC03/40
5. Italian silk tie $99 TIE161-45
6. Italian silk/cotton pocket square $69 PSQ80-40
7. Chocolate brogue $375 SHO17-59
Purchase 3 Shirts Get $100 off*
In check for summer. Combining checks with checks is a breeze with this seasons colour palette of pastel pinks, corals and blues.
Relax. Our casual wear is made to the same high standard as our tailored garments.
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1. Seddon crewneck $149 S1575SED 2. Charcoal trilby $69 3. Brown derby $375 SHO21-55 4. Italian socks $29 SOC21-75 5. Lex belt $99 BLT12-55 6. Beck trouser $169 BO07/69 7. Sheen jacket $449 BP01/79
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Photo finish To be the first across the line in the fashion stakes, choose a light coloured suit. Peak lapels add a dash of rakish appeal. Quinella Make your work suit race-ready with a shirt and tie combo that’s more Saturday night than Monday morning. 2
Silks Not just for jockeys, silk is the perfect choice for your tie, pocket square or lapel flower. Stayer A straw hat helps you stay the distance, as well as completing your look.
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1. Italian silk/cotton tie $99 TIE205-75
2. Lapel pin $49 3. Navy monk belt $89 BLT14-79
4. Metropolis shirt $229 SB31/79
5. Italian oxford $399 SHO22-79
6. Picco-Lotus suit $799 BO53/70
A sure thing. Come race day, your picks for fashion are just as important as your bets.
Auckland city store. Our fourth Auckland store opens in December. Sited amongst the business leaders in Auckland and a stones throw from the beautiful Viaduct Harbour, Rembrandt is excited to announce that we will be opening our fourth Auckland store. Our flagship Rembrandt store at 41 Shortland Street will open in December.
Service will be paramount, as it is at all Rembrandt stores, and our knowledgeable team will be on hand to offer all aspects of sartorial advice. Our new Auckland flagship will make it even easier for Auckland men to look their finest.
To reflect the dynamic nature of Rembrandt’s collections and Auckland as an international city, we will utilise New Zealand hand made furniture and design, as well as considered additions from further afield. This will create the perfect synergy with our own product, especially our made to measure offer, where every garment is crafted to perfection in our Wellington factory.
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INTRODUCING
Tim Begg Tim Begg has relocated from our Sylvia Park store to manage our new Auckland flagship store that opened this December.
Tim’s likeable and passionate manner, paired with fantastic product knowledge and tailoring expertise, has earned him a reputation for providing excellent customer service.
What’s the best thing about your job? Being part of a dynamic team of individuals who are experts in their field. With people like this we are continually pushing to be leaders in men’s tailoring in New Zealand and abroad. The development of Rembrandt as a brand over the last few seasons through footwear and accessories allows our retail stores to be leading destinations for high quality, affordable menswear.
What’s your must have item for the season? Our Sheen jacket: in my opinion, the most comfortable and versatile jacket I have ever worn. How will you wear it? Either with a tailored pair of trousers and a smart shirt and tie for the day, or dressed down with a pair of jeans for the evening. What else is on your wardrobe wish list for this season? I am always on the hunt for a new pair of shoes, work or weekends. Rembrandt have introduced a great line of footwear out of Portugal so I will try and get my hands on a new pair of Oxfords.
Describe your style: Contemporary and classic with character and colour. How do you express this style at work? A well tailored suit combined with well presented footwear, coloured socks and ties, polished off with pocket squares and lapel pins. And in the weekend? Auckland is developing into a great place to socialise and eat out. I like wearing a soft tailored jacket in the evenings with a pair of jeans for a more relaxed feel.
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On the straight and narrow. Wayward Heir provides straight lines and narrow fits this season.
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1. Proto jacket $549 BQ06/75
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Style Counsel
2. Brooklyn shirt $229 SA61/75
Considering a suit-appropriate sneaker?
3. Punk trouser $229 BO70/75
Think of them like the most casual dress shoes you own and you won’t go wrong.
4. Bob tail cotton tie $99 TIE102-75
Just like dress shoes, choose leather uppers in a classic, minimal style. Use a shoehorn and shoe trees and they’ll stay looking sharp. Make sure you keep them clean, unlike the rest of your trainers.
5. Brooklyn shirt $129 SB48/75
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SHORTLAND STREET, AUCKLAND
Opening December rembrandt.co.nz
Auckland l Takapuna l Newmarket l Sylvia Park l Smith & Caughey’s Palmerston North l The Square Christchurch l Ballantynes
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Dunedin l George Street Sydney l Pitt Street Mall l Warringah Mall l Macquarie Centre
@rembrandtsuits