sports bars 6 spots to imbibe
SIN NE
Crispy fried chicken and hand-cut fries
free-range fashion 10 stylish looks P. 58
P. 43
N I TS A S
S R
4 nutritious di
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de
ca
den
t d e l i g h ts
she s
a winter boucherie Experiencing a Cajun tradition P. 66
grilled chicken and arugala salad with walnuts, dried cherries and Parmesan
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contents A little extra Editor’s note Nouvelles de villes Newsbriefs Le visiter Calendar lagniappe
NOTE DE L’EDITEUR
home+style 19 Scarves pour la maison Pans la maison French Country residence in Lafayette À la mode
food+drink 31 Special Occasion Dining de la cuisine Cakes for Giving sur le menu
recettes de cocktails
Midwinter Night’s Dream Artist, butcher and chef Toby Rodriguez of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine lays out his tools and sharpens a knife to prepare for a boucherie in Violet, Louisiana. Rodriguez and his team are on a mission to educate people about where their food comes from, sustainability and to keep alive the deeply rooted Cajun tradition.
culture 79 personnes Rhonda Lee la musique Joe Hall & the Cane Cutters en francais
Cent Ans, Cent Lignes
features bar guide 43
6 spots to check out on game day. by lisa leblanc-berry
sinners & saints 48 Decadent recipes – and healthier alternatives by stanley dry
fashion 58 On location at a farm in Carencro by tracee dundas
lâche pas 66
Attending a boucherie in Violet by melanie warner spencer
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
lagniappe
learn french solstice d’hiver n. winter solstice example: C’est celle du solstice d’hiver, quand les jours gagnent sur la nuit.
What is your new year’s resolution?
december 2015/january 2016 vol. 34 | № 6
Editor in Chief
Managing Editor
of the “Take a tour Atchafalaya”
Associate Editor Art Director
Lead Photographer
Web Editor
Sales Manager
did you know?
Errol Laborde Sarah Ravits Melanie Warner Spencer Sarah George Danley Romero Kelly Massicot Rebecca Taylor
(337) 298-4424
(337) 235-7919 Ext. 230
Rebecca@acadianaprofile.com
Sales Intern
Madeline Piller
Traffic Coordinator
Jessica DeBold
Distribution Manager
John Holzer
Director of Marketing & Events Cheryl Lemoine
Administrative Assistant
Subscriptions
“I want to volunteer abroad.”
Denise Dean Sara Kelemencky
Mallary Matherne
Production/Web Manager
Production Designers
Staci McCarty Ali Sullivan
On Dec. 9, 1872, P.B.S. Pinchback became first (and only) mixed-race governor of Louisiana and the first person of African descent to become governor of a U.S. state. In 1872, the legislature filed impeachment charges against the incumbent Republican governor, Henry Clay Warmoth, due to disputes over certifying returns of the disputed gubernatorial election, in which both Democrat John McEnery and Republican William Kellogg claimed victory. State law required that Warmoth step aside until his impeachment case was tried. Pinchback took the oath as acting governor and served for about six weeks until the end of Warmoth’s term. It was not until 1990 that another person of color served as governor of any U.S. state.
Monique DiPietro
Chief Executive Officer
President
Alan Campell
Executive Vice President
Errol Laborde
“Cook a different type of gumbo every month”
Vice President of Sales
Todd Matherne
behind the scenes
Colleen Monaghan
Like us on Facebook (Facebook.com/AcadianaProfile) and follow us on Twitter (@acadianaprofile) for daily updates, happenings in the area and other news! We want to hear from you, and we’ll post a question every week – post your answers and you could be published in the magazine!
Please consider our planet and recycle this (and every) magazine.
Renaissance Publishing LLC • 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123 • Metairie, LA 70005 • (504) 828-1380 • (877) 221-3512 128 Demanade, Suite 104 • Lafayette, LA 70503 • (337) 235-7919 ext. 230 Acadiana Profile (ISSN 0001-4397) is published bimonthly by Renaissance Publishing LLC, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 and 128 Demanade, Suite 104, Lafayette, LA 70503 (337) 235-7919 ext. 230. Subscription rate: One year $10; Foreign Subscriptions vary. Periodicals postage paid at Lafayette, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Acadiana Profile, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2015 Renaissance Publishing LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Acadiana Profile is registered. Acadiana Profile is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Acadiana Profile are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner.
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
Managing editor and occasional equestrian Sarah Ravits takes Sport for a ride while fashion photographer Theresa Cassagne and groundskeeper Christy talk about logistics of our winter fashion photo shoot, which took place at various locations around the Comeaux family’s residence and farm in Carencro. Check out “Free-Range Fashion,” pg. 58.
note de l’editeur
in this issue Fashion, recipes, a bar guide and a boucherie are all highlights. The acadiana region is especially
thriving this time of year. There’s really no slowing down. While the sugar cane is being harvested, we’re all preparing for the holidays, and in this spirit, we have a lot of food-related content for you. If you’re looking for new variations of cakes to bring as gifts to your friends, family and neighbors in the spirit of the season, turn to pg. 34, where Marcelle Bienvenu has shared some tasty treats. Jyl Benson, our adventurous food writer who roams the region looking for the best spots, has discovered some fine-dining establishments that make for a nice date night or special occasion. If cooking at home is more your thing, though, check out Sinners and Saints, pg. 48. Stanley Dry might tempt you with some decadent recipes, but if you’re trying to watch your weight, he’s also provided some healthier alternatives, so depending on whether you’re listening to the angel or the devil on your shoulders, you’ll be covered. We also sent associate editor Melanie Warner Spencer to her first boucherie in Violet, so check out pg. 66 to read her first-hand, in-depth account of the cultural experience. She learned a tremendous amount, and we think you will too, even if you’ve been to one before. Finally, we joined our styling team for our winter fashion shoot at a breathtaking, sprawling farm in Carencro. Like the region itself, the styles we selected balance tradition with creativity and spunk. Sarah Ravits Managing Editor
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
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nouvelles de villes
by lisa leblanc-berry
Geaux Zydeco! for your ears
Santa Parachutes, Has Pancakes breaux bridge; delcambre
Jeanerette
“The Art and Social Commentary of Clementine Hunter,” a traveling exhibit from the Louisiana State Museum runs through January 15 at the Jeanerette Museum (500 Main St.; 337-276-4408). While there, check out the pictorial history of the sugarcane industry, antique farm equipment and Mardi Gras costumes.
It’s a Hit Rum Lake Charles
Louisiana Spirits Distillery, maker of Bayou Rum, has signed a long-term national distribution agreement with New York-based Stoli Group USA, thus increasing the borders beyond Louisiana and the other six states. The national distribution starting January 1 is for all four types of Bayou Rum. Although production of the rum, handmade from sugarcane in nearby Lacassine, has only been going on for two years, it’s now the largest privately owned rum distillery in the U.S.
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Hot off the Press Lafayette
University of Louisiana at Lafayette Press has released two exceptional new books that are ideal for gifts: Way Down in Louisiana: Clifton Chenier, Cajun, Zydeco, and Swamp Pop Music by veteran journalist and event producer Todd Mouton is a meticulously researched tome profiling Chenier’s Red Hot Louisiana Band and his fellow musical innovators, with suggested playlists; a full-length companion DVD of Chenier performing live is available ($24.95). New Orleans: Life and Death in the Big Easy by award-winning photographer Cheryl Gerber (a contributor to the New York Times, Associated Press and New Orleans Magazine) is a visual feast that takes readers on an insider’s tour of the city, capturing its rich, diverse culture and social ironies ($24.95). Co-authors Warren Perrin, Mary Broussard Perrin of Lafayette and Phil Comeau of Montreal have been awarded le Prix France-Acadie 2015 for writing and directing the book, “Acadie Then and Now: A People’s History.” The award, presented to the authors in Paris, was the first book with Louisiana content to claim the coveted title.
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
On December 5, the 3rd annual Breaux Bridge Cajun Christmas is held starting at 9 am at Parcs des Ponts with a live Nativity scene, holiday music and Mrs. Clause reading to children, followed by a parachute event that begins with military men and Santa’s elves dropping from the sky, culminating with Santa diving with his parachute into the junior high football field. After he lands, approximately 2,000 children rush the field to greet him. He rides in a fire truck to the Teche Center for more fun. The unique holiday-themed event ends at 5:30 with caroling in the town square and the lighting of the military Christmas tree (facebook. com/breauxbridgedowntownmerchants). The expanded Delcambre Christmas Boat Parade December 12 features beautiful lighted private boats, live music and spectacular fireworks starting at 6:30 pm. The day’s festivities start with Pancakes with Santa at 8 am at the Delcambre Shrimp Festival Building, followed by afternoon carnival rides, games, prizes and photos with Santa (delcambreboatparade.com).
Clementine hunter photo courtesy Library of Congress, HABS LA,35-MELRO,1B--23 (CT), James W. Rosenthal; book photo courtesy university of louisiana at lafayette press; chris ardoin cd cover courtesy itunes
Folk Art: Allons se voir là-bas!
Congratulations to Chris Ardoin! His new “Zydeco Fever” CD recently debuted No. 1 on the iTunes Top 100 World Music Albums chart. Ardoin (who comes from a 90-year line of Acadiana musicians) first made history in 2013 when he released his “Back Home” CD on Maison de Soul Records of Ville Platte (it landed at No. 1 on the iTunes BestSelling World music chart and No. 1 on Amazon’s Best-Selling Blues Chart, making it the first zydeco/Cajun record to achieve this). Songs on the new “Fever” CD were written, arranged and recorded by Ardoin at his studio, Soul Rehab Music. He played several instruments and did both lead and background vocals on the tracts. In 2016, Ardoin will participate in “The Louisiana Blueprint” tribute album featuring various Cajun, zydeco and swamp pop musicians.
soirĂŠe 1
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honoring the region’s best The third annual Tops of Acadiana party was held at the Grouse Room in Lafayette. photos by travis gauthier
1. Errol Laborde and Sharon Alford 2. Sarah Ravits and Rhea Cormier 3. Rebecca Taylor and Brian Blanchard 4. Jill Gros, Alyse Kobodeaux and Jeanne Lousao 5. Cheryl Lemoine, Emilie Decoteau and AJ McGee 6. Meggie Benoit, Sharon Alford, Meagan Diamond and Carol McManus
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
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Thank you to all of this year’s winners and thank you to everyone who came out to celebrate with us!
7. Chad Broussard, Zach Sprague, Julie Broussard and Corinne Cottenr 8. Keith Ozene, Pauly Domingue, Colin Sandoz and Becca Murphree 9. Amina Dearmon, Lori Landry and Tina Hebert 10. Lindsay Sanders and Virginia Wilkinson 11. Chris Benoit and CJ Clements 12. Jean-Paul Coussan and Rebecca Taylor.
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
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calendar
by judi russell
around acadiana Gatherings and activities around Acadiana. december
5. Miracle on Washington
Through Dec. 31. Victorian
Christmas Market Festival. Downtown DeRidder. (337) 463-5534.
Christmas at the Joseph Jefferson Home. Rip Van Winkle Gardens of Jefferson Island, New Iberia. (337) 359-8525. 1-31. Christmas at the
Alexandre Mouton House. 1122 Lafayette St., Lafayette. (337) 234-2208.
6. Jeanerette Christmas
4. Festival of Light. Oil
7-31. Shadows Merry Making
4. DeQuincy Christmas Activities. Downtown DeQuincy. (337) 786-6451. 4. Christmas Parade. Houma.
(985) 873-5408. 4-5. Sulphur’s Christmas
Under the Oaks. The Grove at Heritage Square, Sulphur. (337) 527-4500. 4-5. A Visit to Santa’s Land/
Reindeer Rowe Setup. Harang Auditorium, Thibodaux. (225) 206-0434. 5. Light Up the Lake
Christmas Celebration. Lake Charles Civic Center, (337) 491-9159. 5. Battle of the Paddle
Gumbo Cook-Off. Delcambre Shrimp Festival Grounds, Delcambre. (337) 349-0229.
Parade. Main Street, Jeanerette. (337) 579-2153. Season. Shadows-on-theTeche, New Iberia. (337) 369-6444. 8-12, 15-18, 22-23. Old-Time Christmas at Vermilionville. 300 Fisher Rd., Lafayette. (337) 233-4077. 10. Very Merry Christmas
Party for Seniors. Lake Charles Civic Center. (337) 474-2583. 10-12. Rudolph the RedNosed Reindeer. Lake Charles Civic Center. (337) 474-0311. 11. WinterFest. West Calcasieu
Arena & Events Center, Sulphur. (337) 527-5433. 12. Iowa Christmas Parade
& Christmas in the Park. LawrenceToups Memorial Park Pavilion, Iowa. (337) 582-3535. 12. Magic on Main Street.
Downtown Lafayette.
5. 11th Annual Le Feu & L’Eau (Fire & Water) Rural Art Celebration. NUNU Arts & Culture Collective, Arnaudville. (337) 453-3307.
12. Magic on Main &
5. City of Franklin Christmas
Heymann Performing Arts Center, Lafayette. (337) 2620444.
Parade & Lamplighter Ceremony. Corner of Jackson and Main streets, Franklin. (337) 828-6345.
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
5. Delcambre Holiday Gumbo Cook-Off. Delcambre Shrimp Festival Fairgrounds, Delcambre. (337) 349-0229.
1-31. Christmas on the Cajun Coast. Throughout St. Mary Parish. (985) 380-8224.
Center, Lafayette. (337) 232-1267.
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5. Breakfast with Santa. Prien Lake Mall, Lake Charles. (337) 477-7487.
Gingerbread Tea. 320 E. Main St., New Iberia. (337) 3696446. 12-13 – The Nutcracker.
13. Lake Charles Symphony
Holiday Home Tour. Various locations, Lake Charles. (337) 433-1611.
13. Delcambre Main Street Christmas Parade. Main Street, Delcambre. (337) 519-2541. 13. St. Martin de Tours Lighting of
the Square/St. Martinville Christmas Parade/Christmas on the Boulevard. St. Martin de Tours Church Square, St. Martinville. (337) 394-2235. 18. Supper on the Square. St. Martin de
Tours Church Square, St. Martinville. (337) 394-2230. 19. Ala Bayou Terrebone Christmas Boat Parade. Bayou Terrebone at Bourg Volunteer Fire Station. (985) 209-1771. 31. New Year’s Noon. Children’s Museum of
Acadiana, Lafayette. (337) 232-8500.
january 6. Mardi Gras 12th Night. Lake Charles
Civic Center. (337) 425-8623. 7-9. Annual Louisiana Fur & Wildlife Festival. Downtown Cameron. (337) 250-6322. 9. Mardi Gras Queen’s Pageant. Lake
Charles Civic Center. (337) 660-1968. 16. Krewe of Ambrosia Tableau & Ball. Harang Auditorium, Thibodaux. (985) 859-2330. 23. Vinton Mardi Gras Celebration & Gumbo Cook-Off. Downtown Vinton. (337) 589-7453. 23. Courthouse Chili Cook-Off. Courthouse Square, Houma. (985) 873-6408. 30. City of Sulphur Mardi Gras Parade. Cypress Street, Sulphur. (337) 527-4500. 30. Carencro Mardi Gras Parade. Carencro High. (337) 896-4147. 30. Krewe de Chiens Parade for Dogs.
Downtown Lafayette. ParadeForDogs.org 30. Krewe of Carnivale en Rio Mardi Gras Parade. Downtown Lafayette. (337) 984.6522. 30. Krewe of Chronus Tableau. Harang
Auditorium, Thibodaux. (985) 446-7218. 31. Scott Mardi Gras Parade. Scott. (337) 269-5155. 31. Courir de Mardi Gras. Vermilionville,
Lafayette. (337) 233-4077
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
Style writer Claire Salinas picked out scarves to suit every style and keep you warm on the chilliest winter days.
style+home à la mode 20 Scarves
by claire salinas
pour la maison 22 Pots and pans
by Claire salinas
la maison 24
‘Tis the season for holiday feasts and playoff barbecues featuring wild game at the Hebert’s French Country residence in Lafayette. by lisa leblanc-berry
style+home À DEla LAmode CUISINE
A portion of the proceeds are given to a village in India.
keeping warm 5 fashionable scarves by claire salinas | photo romero & Romero
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1. Plaid Iris T. scarf with pockets from Park Lane Boutique, 1921 Kaliste Saloom Road, Lafayette. (337) 534-8682. parklaneboutique.com
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2. 100% handmade silk
scarf from India at Little Town Women’s Apparel & Accessories, 1116 Coolidge St. Lafayette. (337) 268-9499. little-town.com
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
3. Fringe infinity scarf
from Three Little Birds, 210 East Vermilion St., Lafayette. (337) 412-1423. ishopthreelittlebirds.com
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4. Plaid blanket scarf from Juju’s, 101 Settlers Trace Blvd., Lafayette. (337) 406-9300. 7808 Main St. Houma. (985) 876-3766. facebook.com/JuJusBoutique
5. Brixton Dakota Scarf from Genterie Supply Co., 408 Jefferson St., Lafayette. (337) 401-3833. genterie.com
style+home pour DE LA la CUISINE maison
heating up 5 essential pans 1
by claire salinas photo romero & romero
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1. This sauté pan by
Thundergroup features a cool touch handle, stainless steel interior, a Tri-Ply bottom for efficient heat distribution and is induction ready. Acadiana Restaurant Supply, 1428 Eraste Landry Road, Lafayette. (337) 412-6347.
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2. The durable ceramic
finish of the Scanpan allows for high-heat searing in this versatile sauté pan. It’s a one-stop pot for frying, roasting and even for soup making. The Kitchen Shop, 296 Martin Luther King Dr., Grand Coteau. (337) 662-3500
3. The Rock by Starfrit frying pan has an ultra durable, rock-like finish, an outstanding release performance and an extra thick forged aluminum base which allows for optimum heat distribution and even cooking. Bed Bath & Beyond, 3617 Ambassador Caffrey Parkway, Lafayette. (337) 988-5423 4. This Le Creuset Signature Iron Handle Skillet has a textured black enamel interior which makes it ideal for frying, searing or baking a variety of foods on the stovetop or in the oven. It requires no surface maintenance or pan seasoning. Joey’s 503 Bertrand Dr., Lafayette, (337) 237-3661
Aluminum, cast iron, and unlined copper are reactive metals. They conduct heat very well, however they are reactive with acidic and alkaline foods. If you’re cooking with ingredients like tomatoes or lemon juice, your food can take on a metallic flavor. Ceramics and stainless steel are non-reactive. They don’t conduct heat very well and tend to have ‘hot spots.’ But, they won’t interfere with the chemical structure of the food.
5. This Lagostina, Tri-Ply Construction maintains flavor and is great for searing. It has a lifetime warranty and is broiler safe up to 500 degrees. Kitchenary at Heymann’s 456 Heymann Blvd. # C, Lafayette, (337) 264-1037
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
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style+home la DE LA maison CUISINE
they’ve got game ‘Tis the season for holiday feasts and playoff barbecues featuring wild game at the Heberts’ French Country residence in Lafayette by lisa leblanc-berry | photos by chad chenier
When a brisk north
wind whistles through the Atchafalaya and a polar air mass settles over the swamp on cold winter mornings, bringing the kind of humidity that goes straight to the bones, south Louisiana sportsmen put on their waders and go where the wild things are. The chase is on, from dawn until dusk. Low-flying ducks and mature trophy bucks found wandering in the mist will end up on tables at elegant holiday dinners, New Year’s Eve bonfire buffets and football playoff soirées throughout Acadiana. Most winter weekends during peak season, Mike Hebert heads with his bow and arrow to the Atchafalaya
in search of deer at his Whiskey Bay property, where a great expanse of flooded timber in an old-growth forest is blanketed with a thick canopy of trees. “That’s usually where the big bucks hide, in the swamps,” he explains. “Our best hunting is in January, when it’s cold, and the deer are no longer nocturnal because they’re on the run, trying to breed. We’ll duck hunt in the morning, deer hunt in the afternoon and fish during the middle of the day. You can hear the speckle bellies migrating from north Louisiana, heading south. The geese fly right over us during a cold front.” Mike’s wife, Ginger, is a gourmet Cajun
cook and a marvelous hostess. Their sprawling L-shaped Lafayette residence is designed with several porches for cleaning and prepping fish and game. During the holidays, the tantalizing aroma of Ginger’s bacon-wrapped venison tenderloins and succulent wild duck breast simmering on the grill fills the air. The funloving Lafayette couple is known to host some of the best football playoff parties in the land of roux, culminating with Super Bowl poolside feasts. Few can beat the Heberts’ culinary offerings gleaned from the Gulf and nearby wetlands. “Mike and I had a very similar upbringing, fishing and hunting,” Ginger says. “We spent
our first 10 years of marriage each weekend, fishing and scuba diving, aboard his dad’s 45-foot boat, the Salty Dog,” she adds. “My dad’s 46-foot fishing boat was named The Koddy. Ironically, we didn’t know it, but Mike’s father parked his boat next to our boat in Intracoastal City, so I really had met Mike when I was a kid but didn’t know it. That’s why he knew I would understand and tolerate his hunting and fishing.” For Christmas, when it’s their turn to combine the two families, Ginger prepares an elaborate feast for 20-30 people featuring seafood and wild game aplenty. “I have no problem seating at least
facing page A rustic gate connects a winding walkway between the two Hebert homes. Mike’s parents built a house next door that has a wellequipped outdoor kitchen, which is often used when the extended family gets together for holiday feasts and parties by the pool. above One of several porches surrounding the residence that is used for entertaining while prepping fish and game.
24 inside,” she says of their home, which has two dens, living and dining rooms and an open U-shape kitchen with custom cabinetry. The spirited redhead is famous for her holiday rice dressing and deer roll-up appetizers (marinated tenderloins stuffed with cream cheese and jalapenos, rolled and
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wrapped in bacon), which she also serves during the LSU, Saints and playoff games. “Mike will hunt a feral hog for Christmas. He starts roasting it outdoors around 5 am in a Cajun microwave,” Ginger says. “When we carve it up, people are 26 |
standing around, catching all the really moist pieces and crackling skin, or gratons,” Mike adds. “Feral hogs are a lot leaner than domestic pigs, they’re not as greasy, and the flavor is much better.” Each winter, with the onset of hunting
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
season, the Heberts’ great room near the kitchen gets a tweak above the fireplace, the hearth of the home. The Aspen landscape oil painting comes down and is replaced with one of Mike’s latest trophy mounts. This year, it’s a beautiful eight-pointer
Mike arrowed in Ohio that scored 150 inches. The remarkable whitetail trophy buck was consequently listed in Pope and Young’s bow-hunting records. The Heberts’ central stone-hearth fireplace is appointed with a solid cypress beam for the mantel, lending a rustic tone. Tongueand-groove long-leaf pine vertical planking extends above the mantel. “It’s stained and is really close in color to the cypress beams in the room,” Mike says. “We wanted an inviting feel to the rooms. Stained wood adds warmth, and cypress invokes the Cajun tradition of French Country homes.” The proprietor of Westmark
top left Mike built a cypress garden shed in the backyard for Ginger’s landscaping projects. top right When deer hunting season arrives, a trophy buck is mounted over the fireplace in the den, where the Heberts spend cozy evenings by a crackling fire while enjoying Ginger’s famous dark-roux gumbos. left The garden shed is on the path between the two Hebert homes.
Construction Company, Mike is a general contractor handling both residential and commercial renovations and new construction throughout Louisiana. The great room, which the Heberts designed with the help of Mike Landry,
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has a casual feel with 12-foot vaulted ceilings and old-growth pecky cypress beams that were gleaned from Ginger’s grandfather (“Daddy Bob’s”) Abbeville camp. Mike and Ginger’s shared 28 |
sensibilities of casual living tied to the seasons inspired the design of their four bedroom, four-and-ahalf-bath French Country home built in 1996. Mike’s late father, Louisiana Hall-of-Fame
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
builder Harry Hebert, who created some of the most well-known subdivisions in Acadiana, devised the new Kamos subdivision when Mike and Ginger acquired the property where they built their
house. “He was on the planning commission,” Mike explains. “He was looking for a place to build as well.” Harry and his wife, Marie, eventually built a home next door. A small, winding path adjoins the two back yards. “It worked out perfectly,” Ginger remarks. “Our son, Zach, loved to swim and have his friends over while growing up. Mike’s mom babysat all the Hebert grandkids, so the pool was a great place to keep us together. For several summers, if a meal couldn’t be prepared on a barbecue pit poolside, it just didn’t happen,” she notes. “Marie has a great outdoor cooking area, and so most of our family entertaining flows over to her back porch, which
is connected to our favorite outdoor spot, the ‘fish cleaning porch’ by the walkway. That’s where we barbecue, boil seafood, and set up the Cajun microwave. It’s also where we watch the games.” Mike jovially rejoins, “It’s a way of life. We work hard, and we play hard!”
top The Heberts’ favorite poolside “fish cleaning porch” is where they frequently gather for football games and barbecues, fish fries, seafood boils and impromptu gatherings. bottom Ginger and Mike enjoy cooking together in their kitchen designed with a custom island and cypress cabinetry. Ginger grew up duck hunting in Pecan Island, while Mike’s family hunted at Whiskey Bay. Their shared love of the outdoors and cooking together renders a home that is warm and inviting.
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
Mixologist Sal Agnello has perfected a soulreviving boozy hot chocolate that he dubs a “Midwinter Night’s Dream.”
food+drinks sur le menu 32
Treating yourself to fine-dining this winter should be on your agenda. by jyl benson
de la cuisine 34 Cakes to make this season by marcelle bienvenu
recettes de cocktail 40 A Midwinter Night’s Dream by sal agnello
FOOD+DRINK
DE LA sur leCUISINE menu
something special
Roasted Duck St. Gabriel with currant and blueberry demi-glace reduction at Roberto’s River Road Restaurant
Treating yourself this winter should be on your agenda. by jyl benson | photo romero & romero
What makes a place
worthy of visiting for a special occasion is the way it makes you feel (if you have been there before) and/ or your anticipation of the memories you will create there. Carole Baugnon adorned her intimate, 32 |
24-seat restaurant, Creola Cafe in Grand Coteau with European antiques, oil paintings, soft lighting and toile fabric. It feels like an elegant home dining room. Her kitchen is wide open, so she can talk to customers while she cooks.
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
The 70-something chef has developed a loyal following for her lunches – primarily soups, salads and sandwiches – and for her occasional Saturday evening dinner parties. Baugnon keeps a running list of people interested in attending
the events, and when she’s ready to host one, sometimes as often as every other Saturday, she makes calls. Get on this list. The first 22 people who RSVP enjoy a memorable evening, complete with carefully thought-out wine pairings.
Otherwise, she plans her limited menu from day to day, turning out deftly prepared versions of graceful Creole and French-inspired classics like Steak Diane flamed with real brandy and served with creamy twice-baked
bonus bite With the holidays—and houseguests upon us—many who usually skip the first meal of the day will be seeking out places to enjoy breakfast and brunch. For this we love Brick & Spoon for its fresh, affordable, Southern heritage menu (shrimp and grits, beignets, and plump, cornmealdusted oysters) and the option of alfresco dining. What throws this place over the top is the choose-your-own-adventure Bloody Mary. Upon arrival you are given a sheet of paper on which to design your own liquid breakfast from 10 spirits and nearly two dozen vegetable garnishes (including pickled and fresh varieties), plus seasonings like habanero Tabasco and soy sauce. Proteins—boiled or grilled shrimp, crisp bacon strips, and seafood deviled eggs round out the offerings. Your creation arrives in a giant chalice.
potatoes. Her farm-raised catfish is served bronzed from a cast-iron skillet and heaped with sautéed jumbo lump crabmeat. Her ethereal Italian cream cake, the secret to which she will never reveal, is at once dense and light as air. “By the time people leave they have become my friends,” Baugnon says. “We feel we are celebrating some of life’s most important moments with our customers. Or sometimes it’s just another lunch. But we still want that to be special, memorable.” Several factors make Roberto’s River Road Restaurant in Sunshine memorable. For starters, the location – it is nearly impossible to find to the extent that it can start to feel like a prank as you drive and drive, seemingly going nowhere – and its appearance when you find it at last. It pretty
much screams “dump” from the outside. Located 10 miles or so south of Baton Rouge on the Mississippi River levee in a clapboard building that once bore a coat of white paint, Roberto’s changes the game just as soon as you open the door. The interior is warm, rustic, inviting and generally packed with regulars who come again and again for fresh takes on Cajuninspired dishes. The usual steaks and friend seafood are here for sure but skip them unless you become a regular – and you just might. Try instead the namesake Shrimp Roberto with three large specimens stuffed with seafood dressing, wrapped in bacon, fried, and served atop a pool of silky beurre blanc and finished with lemony Hollandaise. The Roasted Duck St. Gabriel features half of a water fowl glazed with a currant and blueberry demi-glace reduction and served with creamy potatoes. The fresh catch of the day is served en papillote – wrapped in parchment paper and baked with fresh herbs, lemon and white wine and topped with hunks of jumbo lump crab meat. Finish the meal with the Malted Chocolate Caramel Pie, and you’ll never forget it.
Brick & Spoon 1895 W. Pinhook Road, Lafayette, (337) 408-3992, brickandspoonsrestaurant.com Creola Cafe 284 Martin L. King Road, Grand Coteau, (337) 662-3914 Roberto’s River Road Restaurant 1985 LA-75, Sunshine, (225) 642-5999, robertosrestaurant.net
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FOOD+DRINK
DE LA CUISINE
Baking homemade cakes and giving them away is a good way to get in the holiday spirit.
cakes for giving 2 recipes to try out at home by marcelle bienvenu | photo eugenia uhl
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
I recently cleaned out
the catch-all drawer in my office and came upon a pin which read “I HATE FRUITCAKE” that belonged to Mama. I chuckled as I remembered when she wore it religiously from Dec. 1 to Christmas day. The first time I spied it pinned to the collar of her dress, she had stopped by for a mid-morning cup of coffee. The button was so out of character for her I burst out laughing. I was curious. Where did she get the button and did she really hate fruitcake? With a straight face, she went into a tirade about how she hoped no one ever sent her another fruitcake. She had eaten enough of those things in her life. Then she broke out into laughter and went on to tell me that when she was a little girl, one of her duties around the holidays was to punch tiny holes in the homemade fruitcakes that were given to her father every year by friends and relatives, (sometimes there were as many as four or five) and dribble in two to three tablespoons of bourbon per cake once or twice a week. She did this for years and hated this task. Except, she recalls, when she got older. Then she would give the cakes one or two tablespoons of bourbon and allow herself the remaining tablespoon. “On the appointed days of ‘feeding’ the cakes, I enjoyed my nip!” she laughed. “Then, after I was married to your father, the same ritual was followed. Those darn old cakes would come as regular as Santa Claus. By then, the cakes were getting one tablespoon and I was getting two or three! But after your father died, the cakes stopped arriving. Thank goodness! Now I can’t seem to look at one
tip To make the gift look more aesthetically pleasing, consider wrapping the cake pan in semi- opaque wax paper instead of plastic wrap, and adorn it with a festive ribbon and card that expresses your holiday wishes to your friends and other loved ones.
in the face. When I saw this button at a little gift shop, I knew it was meant for me.” We had a good laugh and I admitted that I too was not a great fan of those hard-as-brick, heavy-as-gold dense cakes. I recalled when I lived in Houston, an elderly gentleman who was my neighbor and a native of Corsicana, Texas (where thousands of fruitcakes are made for the commercial market) would bring me two or three a year, and not necessarily at Christmas time. I, too, dutifully poured in the bourbon on a regular basis. Once a week, the dear old man came for coffee (and sometimes an Old Fashioned) and we would visit over our slices of cake. But, would you believe, that even after he passed away, the guardian of his estate continued having cakes sent, until I moved back to Louisiana. I do like to give something from my kitchen to neighbors and friends. My repertoire usually includes apple cakes, chocolate fudge, divinity fudge and for the last few years, these little loaf cakes shared with me by Emeril Lagasse. They’re perfect for those of you, who like me, are not artists and have never mastered the art of cake decorating. Tie them up in festive cellophane or wax paper with a big bow or put them in tins for gift giving.
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DE LA CUISINE
Christmas Fruitcake With Whiskey Sauce Make a simple syrup by combining sugar and water in a medium-size heavybottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the lemon zest and juice and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for 2 minutes and remove from heat. Combine the dried fruits together in a large mixing bowl. Pour simple syrup over them, toss to coat and let steep for 5 minutes. Strain and reserve the syrup. Cream the butter, sugar and almond paste together in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle at low speed, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl. Beat until the mixture is fluffy and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing in between each addition on low speed and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add ½ cup of Grand Marnier and mix to incorporate. Combine flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in a medium-sized mixing bowl and blend well. Add ½ cup at a time to the butter mixture with the mixer on low speed, each time mixing until smooth, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. The batter will be thick. Add the warm fruit and all the nuts a little at a time, mixing well. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle.
2 cups granulated sugar 2 cups water Strips of zest of 2 lemons (about 3 tablespoons) ¼ cup fresh lemon juice the cake:
1 pound of a combination of dried (not candied) fruits, such as blueberries, cranberries, cherries, raisins, and chopped apricots 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 ¼ cups granulated sugar 4 ounces almond paste 8 large eggs 1 cup Grand Marnier or other orangeflavored liqueur 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt
Lightly grease 12 1-pound loaf pans (you can find the disposable aluminum type in most supermarkets or specialty kitchen shops). Spoon about 1 cup of the batter into each pan. Bake until golden and the tops spring back when touched, about 45 minutes, rearranging them after 25 minutes if necessary to brown evenly.
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Cool for 10 minutes in the pans. Remove cakes from pans and cool completely on wire racks.
½ cup bourbon
Combine the reserved simple syrup with the remaining ½ cup Grand Marnier and the bourbon. Without removing the cheesecloth, make tiny holes with a toothpick randomly on the top of each cake. Pour 2 tablespoons of the syrup over the top of each cake once every 2 to 3 days until all the syrup is used. Let the cakes age for up to 3 weeks before eating. Makes 12 cakes
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
simple syrup:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Wrap each cake in a layer of cheesecloth. Store in plastic storage bags until they are slightly stale, 3 to 4 days.
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Ingredients
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 cup slivered blanched almonds 1 cup pecan pieces 1 cup walnut pieces
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DE LA CUISINE
Aunt Grace’s Apple Cake My aunt Grace always presented me with of her special apple cakes every Friday after Thanksgiving. These are also made in loaf pans and are delicious for dessert, or for breakfast with a cup of coffee. This makes 2 loaf cakes, which can be frozen. Completely defrost before serving. These are great when warmed a bit in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil two 9-by-5-by-3 inch loaf pans. Set aside. Combine the sugar, flour, apples, baking soda, cinnamon, pecans or walnuts and the salt in a large mixing bowl. Stir to mix. Add the vegetable oil, eggs and vanilla and stir to mix well. Spoon equal amounts of the mixture into the prepared pans. Bake until a tester inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean, about 1 hour.
Makes 2 loaf cakes
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
Ingredients
2 cups sugar 3 cups all-purpose flour 3 cups chopped apples (peeled) 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts 1 teaspoon salt 1 ¼ cups vegetable oil 2 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla
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FOOD+DRINK
recettes de cocktails
midwinter night’s dream Hot chocolate with a kick recipe by sal agnello photo eugenia uhl
Ingredients
3 oz LA 31 Biere Noir reduced to 1.5 oz 1 oz LA 1 Whiskey 1 cup whole milk 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa power 1.5 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract pinch salt Whiskey Whipped Cream
2 tablespoons of LA 1 Whiskey homemade or store bought whipped cream
Directions
Stir whiskey into whipped cream. Reduce Biere Noir in a sauce pan and set aside. In new sauce pan or small pot add whole milk, dry ingredients and vanilla extract. Bring up to temperature slowly as to not burn the milk. Add reduced beer and whiskey. Pour into mug of your choosing and top with whiskey cream and sprinkle of cocoa. 1 serving
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You can replace dry ingredients and vanilla with instant cocoa power mix
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
The Tap Room
6 Sporting Spots for football fever
Get your game day vibes on at these energetic, tribal enclaves throughout Acadiana By Lisa LeBlanc-Berry // Photos by denny culbert
Pondering a new place for the coin toss? We've got you covered with a list of six diverse venues to accommodate your personal viewing style. Our suggestions range from lively sports bars filled with cheering fans to the laid-back little neighborhood “Who’s ya daddy?” joints with bayou food and sporting Cajun camaraderie. Chances are, you’ll have more fun feeling the spirit of a high-octane football showdown at places where regulars welcome you into their inner realm like old friends — unless you’re wearing the other team’s colors.
Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar 1795 Martin Luther King Blvd. Houma // 985/262/8501
Since the New Orleans Saints handed the Atlanta Falcons their first defeat of the season in October (31-21) and theirs is the oldest rivalry in the NFC South division, you may want to see the Jan. 3 game, when the Saints challenge the Falcons in Atlanta (for the close of the regular season) at an upscale sports bar filled with Who Dat fans and flat screens aplenty. The snazzy new Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar in Houma, which is co-owned by Saints quarterback Drew Brees, is a prime spot for viewing the face-off. It will also no doubt be hopping for Super Bowl 50. Drew and his wife, Brittany, announced they were buying into Walk-On’s Enterprises as co-owners last May. The company caught their attention when the New Orleans Walk-On’s was voted ESPN’s “Best Sports Bar in North America.” Locations to date are in Baton Rouge, New Orleans, Lafayette, Houma and Shreveport, while Lake Charles is underway. Brees foresees a national franchise. Saints fans may recall when “Hurricane Drew” reigned as the King of Bacchus XLII in 2010, just a week after he led the Saints to victory in Super Bowl XLIV, and was named MVP. Although the Saints won’t be marching into the upcoming Super Bowl 50, it will be held Sunday, Feb. 7, and coincides with Bacchus, which rolls at 5:15 p.m. Since the kick-off will be at around 3:30 p.m., Super Bowl fans and parade revelers may catch the last half on a mobile device (for the first time, NBC will be live streaming the Super Bowl halftime show, which will feature Katy Perry and special guest Lenny Kravitz).
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Eat this Devils on Horseback: Jumbo Gulf shrimp stuffed with cream cheese and pickled jalapeno, wrapped in bacon and lightly fried Drink this Death Valley: Served in a whopping 32-oz. glass with Svedka vodka, Bayou Silver rum, Triple Sec, DeKuyper Raamatazz, orange juice and pineapple juice
Brees recalls visiting Houma the summer after winning the Super Bowl, and commented “how great the fans are.” The sprawling Houma Walk-Ons, which has an 8,000-square-foot restaurant and a large enclosed patio and beer garden, opened Sept. 8 with no less than 70 TVs, 48 beers on tap and an extensive menu. “It was voted the ‘Best Sports Bar in Terrebonne Parish’ less than a month after it opened,” general manager Brett LeBlanc pointed out. “We’re not just passive investors,” Drew stated. “Brittany and I are committed to working closely with Brandon and the team to do whatever we can to contribute to Walk-On’s success going forward.” Brandon Landry and Jack Warner, the founders, were former LSU basketball teammates. Best bets among the starters: The seared Ahi Tuna medallions served over Asian mango slaw, spicy boudin balls with a side of Dijon horseradish, and the duck and andouille gumbo. There are specialty cocktails galore, plus burgers, poor boys, great salads, wraps and Louisiana specialties, the best of which is the blackened catfish Atchafalaya, topped with spicy étouffée and a pile of crisply fried crawfish tails, a favorite of Brees and his family.
acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Eat this The appetizer platter: Includes drunken shrimp, praline chicken laced with local Steen’s syrup, fiery wings, stuffed mushrooms and fresh catfish bites Drink this Tiger Bait: Curaçao, cranberry juice & vodka
Buck & Johnny's 100 Berard St. // Breaux Bridge 337/442/6630
Whether you’re a newcomer or a longtime regular, chances are you will feel at home at Buck & Johnny’s in downtown Breaux Bridge. Owner Coatney Raymond, who took over in 2013 after her husband Johnny passed away, recently expanded and renovated the lounge, which now seats 60, and is adorned with deep leather chairs. It opened during Mardi Gras, 2015 and is flanked by a small courtyard that opens through garage doors. Named the Filling Station Lounge, it’s where fans gather for team spirit and handcrafted cocktails named after cars. “We stay open as late as the games are playing, and it’s always packed,” she says.
The Tap Room 202 Settlers Trace Blvd. Lafayette // 337/984/9280
A popular gathering spot among the 20s and 30s crowd in Lafayette is The Tap Room in River Ranch, where you can play Monday fantasy football to your heart’s delight and watch the games with fellow fans without going downtown. The large windows give it an open feel. You can play shuffleboard, watch the game, and order a large variety of beers in addition to handcrafted cocktails. Food selections include flatbreads and gourmet hot dogs served with kettle chips, but there are oyster-on-the-halfshell specials when available. General manager David Savoie creates drink specials tied to the seasons (he was formerly with Social Southern Table and Bar, known for their superb handcrafted cocktails). He is rather proud of the Tap Room’s extensive selection of beer, which includes international lagers and pilsners, American crafts and ciders, and international ambers, ales, porters and stouts, plus a design-yourown flight of 4 draught beers. Upscale yet casual ambience; it can get a tad loud evenings.
The property was originally a car dealership, so there’s plenty of antique car memorabilia, including the recently installed gas pump in the lounge, plus quaint lighting and signage throughout the restaurant, with its cathedralheight ceilings and fetching loft. The special events hall next door, the Glass Room (popular for weddings and political events), is located beside a large antique mall that is just down the street from Café des Amis, known for its weekend zydeco breakfast. Although the lounge is normally jamming during both college and NFL games, the restaurant side is where most fans gather for football viewing, while simultaneously enjoying the delectable Cajun cuisine prepared by Chef Tony Savoy. He was formerly the head chef of Mulate’s in Breaux Bridge and New Orleans.
Buck & Johnny’s previously focused on gourmet pizzas, and then added several Italian specials. Since Chef Savoy came on board, it has become the most popular restaurant in town, offering an expanded menu of authentic Cajun dishes and creative specials. Live music adds to the allure and so do the excellent martinis. The pizzas are tops. For starters, order the crab portabella brie soup, made with a rich, creamy broth, or the award-winning zydeco gumbo. For the main course, try the blackened tilapia finished with a smooth shrimp basil cream, the zesty crawfish enchiladas with plenty of pepper jack, or the pan-fried crab cakes that melt in your mouth, enveloped in a fragrant pesto cream sauce. Be sure to grab a quart of gumbo from the freezer on the way out.
Among the array of cocktails, try the bold and spicy Buzzy Bayou made with Agave Loco Pepper Cured Reposado Tequila, Cathead Hoodoo Chicory Liqueur, jalapeno honey simple syrup and sour mix, garnished with a lemon wedge or the refreshing Ruston Grove designed with Ruston peach infused bourbon with Chinese 5 spice, orange peel, Bitter Truth Pimento Dram and El Guapo Polynesian Kiss bitters, peach amaretto simple syrup and an orange peel for garnish.
Eat this Friggin’ Fig-n-Pig: Flatbread made with fig preserves or the Love You, Long Time hot dog: Beef frank topped with spicy mayo, pickled carrots, jalapeños, cucumbers and fresh cilantro Drink this THE RUSTON GROVE: Peach-infused bourbon and Chinese 5-spice
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Black’s Oyster Bar 319 Pere Megret St. // Abbeville 337/898/2597
In Vermilion Parish, if you want to catch a college game and enjoy some excellent seafood among major LSU fans, stop by the recently reopened Black’s Oyster Bar across from the “big” church, just a half-block from picturesque Magdalen Square. Fighting Tiger die-hards continue to watch the college games with spirit, even though LSU’s star running back Leonard Fournette’s grip was loosened on the Heisman Trophy when he was overpowered by Alabama’s Crimson Tide defense in November. There are always the playoffs. Black’s 44-foot bar, frequented by ultra-friendly locals, is flanked by a couple of large flat screens and several dining tables, which are taken once the adjacent, cavernous restaurant fills up on weekends and during Thursday karaoke nights. The new owners, Corey Gardener and Chance Thomas, have gone all-out with renovations and the food, so just about everything is tops on the menu, and the lunch specials are always generous and reasonably priced. Of course at Black’s, you should start with their pride and joy, the plump, salty Grand Isle bivalves on the half shell that you can also order in three styles of chargrilled (they’re a sure match for Drago’s in New Orleans). The Bloody Marys are legendary, good for any time of the day or night, and the bartenders are skilled at whipping up whatever cocktail you desire. Drink specials run throughout the week. Starters to nibble on during the games include the spicy etouffee balls, crisply fried frog legs, tender strips of fried rabbit laced with Hebert’s Specialty Meats seasoning, and the shrimp en brochette. The earthy, dark chicken and sausage gumbo will warm you up on a cold winter’s night. The oyster poor boys, seafood platters, salads topped with grilled shrimp and tuna, crawfish or fried oysters and juicy steaks topped with crabmeat are all sure bets.
Eat this raw oysters: Enjoy a dozen salty, plump oysters on the half-shell fresh from Grand Isle. Drink This The Mosquito Bite: a refreshing mojito made with Bayou Silver Rum and fresh mint
Fat Pat's Bar & Grill 626 Verot School Road // 337/504/4288 117 Westmark Blvd. // 337/706/8882 Lafayette
Loggerhead’s Bar 3748 Hwy. 3059 (Old Town Road) Lake Charles // 337/491/6794
If you’d like to catch the NFL games off-the-beaten path overlooking the water, and sit beside a roaring fire, head to Loggerhead’s Bar in Lake Charles on the Calcasieu River. This casual spot is a big Saints hangout, but they also tune into the college football games. You can get there by car or by boat and pull up right to the dock, where the Lady of the Lake threedecker 102-foot yacht, rented for evening dinner cruises and private parties, is parked. It usually goes out once a month but is especially popular during the holidays. Live music on Sundays usually starts around 4 p.m. on the patio, and there are live local bands several times during the week, from Cajun French bands to jazz ensembles. Although it’s not a full-service restaurant (you order at the concession stand and bring it inside), the staff occasionally has prepared specials such as chili,
gumbos or pig roasts for parties. Pizzas and above-average burgers are served, as well as boiled shrimp, pulled pork and chicken wings, served in baskets lined with fleurs-de-lis in honor of the Saints. Inside the bar, there are a couple of fireplaces where you can warm up on a chilly winter night, while the outside deck offers splendid sunsets, gorgeous views and a patio with a tiki bar. Locals often drive up to the dock on their boats, and use the bait stand that sells fuel, ice, tackle and supplies. Some beautiful yachts pass by at night. This small, casual bar is popular among locals who prefer watching the game at a non-sports bar, with the added allure of a water view just about 15 minutes from downtown Lake Charles. Owner James Mistretta has mentioned that he may be planning an expansion of Loggerhead’s bar to include an eventual restaurant and resort with cabins, so stay tuned.
Eat this Burgers: Big and juicy with onion rings and fried seafood spiced just right. Drink this Gator Bite cocktail: Refreshing yet powerful and containing three kinds of rum distilled in nearby Lacassine: Bayou Rum’s Silver, Spiced and Satsuma rums are blended with orange and pineapple juices and Grenadine, served on the rocks
Eat this Fat Boy Mile-High burger: A two patty burger with an option to pile on the toppings Drink this Margaritas: powerful and will have you rooting for the home team in no time.
If you’re a fan of the college football bowls (Dec. 19-Jan. 2) and plan on following the Jan. 11 College Football Playoff National Championship (which Dr. Pepper has paid a whopping $35 million for sponsorships through 2020), you’ll want to watch the games where the casual college fans geaux. Fat Pat’s Bar & Grill on Verot School Road is the spot. Both college and NFL fans gather at this iconic sports bar for team camaraderie. You’ll find plenty of flats screens, and also an individual TV in every single booth, which allows you to watch any game that’s on. Younger fans tend to gather at the second, newest location on Westmark Blvd., where there are six TVs on the patio. Specialties are the burgers (ask for the unusual but surprisingly good peanut-butter-and-bacon burger or the signature Mile High burger, which is layered with pepper jack cheese and a trio of grilled yellow, red and green peppers, then dressed) and the hot dogs (try the Dome dog, made with andouille, and topped with red beans and Creole mustard). If you’re not in the mood for dogs and burgers, order the shrimp grilled in garlic butter, dressed and served on a sweet bun. Good bar food, but the main attraction is the atmosphere that includes sports memorabilia, fans and especially those booths with individual TVs.
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Ribeye Steak & Scalloped Potatoes Put your cardiologist on speed dial
Sliced potatoes baked with butter and cream
&
SINNERS Recipes by Stanley Dry Photographs by Eugenia Uhl
There are times to indulge and, alas, times to eat in moderation. Times when we throw caution to the wind and times when we dial it back a bit. Periods of riotous celebration give way to sobriety, excess to something less. This is particularly so in December and January, when holiday festivities are followed by earnest resolutions and the harsh realities of the New Year. We have meals for both those times: Sinners and Saints, we call them. Whether you’re cooking chicken, pork, fish or steak, 48 |
acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Spicy flavors with a touch of sweetness
&
SAINTS we’ve got you covered with two versions of each. One meal is for when you want to indulge, the other for when you don’t. We’re not talking feast or famine here. Feast, yes, but the alternative in each case, instead of abstinence, is a delicious meal that is healthy enough to make you feel saintly. Or, as Mark Twain put it, “Like a Christian with four aces.”
Grilled Top Sirloin & Roasted Broccoli Flavorful, lean beef on toasted bread
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Fried Pork Chops & Fried Eggplant fried fat meets fried veggie
Pork and eggplant complement each other with their rich textures
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acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Middle Eastern flavors enliven lean pork
Roasted Pork Loin & Grilled Eggplant With oregano and pomegranate molasses
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Fried Catfish & Hush Puppies A Louisiana favorite with homemade tartare sauce (available online)
Fish fillets are dipped in milk and dredged in corn flour
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acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Just don't overcook the fish or the "grass"
Broiled Catfish & Poached Asparagus A quick, simple and healthful meal
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Fried Chicken & French Fries An easy method for the home cook
Tender and crispy chicken, hand-cut fries
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acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Grilled Chicken & Arugula Salad With walnuts, dried cherries and Parmesan
Spicy flavors with a touch of sweetness
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SINNERS
Ribeye Steaks & Scalloped Potatoes
Fried Pork Chops & Fried Eggplant
Fried Catfish & Hush Puppies
Grilled Ribeye Steaks
Fried Pork Chops
Fried Catfish
4 ribeye steaks about ½-inch thick Coarse salt and freshly-ground black pepper
4 pork loin chops Cajun/Creole seasoning 1 cup all-purpose flour Cooking oil Hot pepper vinegar
2 cups milk 2 teaspoons hot sauce 2 cups corn flour 1 teaspoon coarse salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 pounds thin catfish filets Cooking oil Lemon wedges
Preheat grill. Season steaks generously with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper. Grill steaks to desired degree of doneness. (Time will vary, depending on temperature of grill.) Serve steaks topped with a disc of herb butter. Makes 4 servings.
Herb Butter
¼ cup butter, softened 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped chives 1 teaspoon minced shallots
Place all ingredients in a bowl and stir to combine. Transfer mixture to a sheet of wax paper. Form into a cylinder, wrap well, and refrigerate. To serve, cut into 4 pieces and place a disc on each steak. Makes 4 servings.
Scalloped Potatoes 4 medium potatoes (about 2 pounds) 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 4 tablespoons butter Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup heavy cream ½ cup milk Freshly-grated nutmeg
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish. Peel a potato and cut it into ⅛-inchthick slices. Put slices in baking dish, sprinkle with flour, season with salt and pepper, and dot with butter. Repeat with each potato. Combine cream and milk and pour over potatoes. Grate a little nutmeg over the top. Cover dish and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until browned, about 20-30 minutes. Makes 4-6 servings.
In a large skillet, add about one-third inch of oil and heat until oil shimmers. Season pork chops generously with Cajun/ Creole seasoning and dredge in flour. Fry pork chops (in batches, if necessary) until nicely browned on one side. Turn and fry until other side is browned. Drain. Serve with hot pepper vinegar for each diner to add, as desired. Makes 4 servings.
Fried Eggplant 1 large eggplant 2 eggs 2 tablespoons water ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup Panko breadcrumbs Coarse salt 2 teaspoons chopped parsley Lemon wedges
In a large skillet, add about onethird inch of oil and heat until oil shimmers. Beat eggs with water. Cut eggplant into ½-inch slices. Dredge eggplant slices in flour, then in egg, then in breadcrumbs. Fry, in batches, until browned on one side, then turn and brown other side. Drain and sprinkle with salt. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.
Heat oil in fryer or deep pot to 375 degrees. Combine milk and hot sauce in a large bowl. Add catfish to milk. Combine corn flour, salt, and peppers in another container. When oil is at proper temperature, remove a filet from milk, shake off excess, dredge in corn flour, and drop in the fryer. Repeat with additional catfish, being careful not to overcrowd fryer. Cook until crispy. Remove cooked catfish from fryer and drain. Repeat until all the fish is cooked. Serve with tartare sauce and lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.
Hush Puppies People who don’t like hush puppies have only sampled the heavy, leaden ones that resemble small cannonballs. These are light and delicious, especially if made with stone-ground cornmeal. ¾ cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon sugar ½ cup buttermilk 1 egg, separated 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ cup finely minced onion Cooking oil
Heat cooking oil in deep fryer or pot to 375 degrees. In a mixing bowl, add dry ingredients and whisk to combine. Add buttermilk and egg yolk and stir to combine. Stir in olive oil and onion. Beat egg white until stiff and fold into mixture. Drop batter by teaspoonfuls into hot oil and cook until browned, turning once, if needed (some will turn on their own). Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper. Makes about 20 hush puppies.
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acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016
Tender & crispy chicken with hand-cut fries Fried Chicken Frying chicken for a crowd is a daunting task. When I was cooking for a large group of people, I found that it is much more efficient to fry chicken only until it is browned, then finish it in the oven. To my surprise, I even liked the result better. Chicken cooked this way approximates our grandmothers’ old-fashioned, pan-fried chicken. 1 chicken (about 4 pounds) 1 quart buttermilk 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 ½ teaspoons cayenne pepper 1 ½ teaspoons black pepper 1 teaspoon hot sauce 2 cups all-purpose flour Cooking oil
Cut-up chicken, reserving necks, giblets, backs and wing tips for another use. Pour buttermilk in a large bowl or pan, add salt, peppers, and hot sauce. Stir to combine. Add chicken pieces, cover, and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight. Preheat oil in deep fryer or pot to 375 degrees. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove chicken from marinade, dredge in flour, and fry, in batches, until golden brown, about 5-8 minutes. Place chicken on a rack set on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until dark brown and cooked through, about 25 minutes. Makes 4 servings.
French Fries 4 medium potatoes Cooking oil Coarse salt
Preheat oil in deep fryer or pot to 375 degrees. Scrub potatoes, but do not peel. Cut potatoes into fries (thick or thin, as desired), and place in a bowl of water. Remove potatoes from water and dry thoroughly. Fry potatoes, in batches, until golden brown. Drain and sprinkle with salt. MAKES 4 SERVINGS.
SAINTS
Grilled Top Sirloin Roasted Pork & Roasted Broccoli Loin Filet with Oregano & Grilled Top Sirloin Pomegranate On Toast Molasses 2 pounds top sirloin cut ½-inch thick 1 tablespoon soy sauce Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 large and thick slices of bread
Preheat grill. Coat both sides of meat with soy sauce and season generously with salt and pepper. Grill steak to desired degree of doneness. (Time will vary, depending on temperature of grill.) Let steak rest for 5 minutes. Toast both sides of bread on the grill. Thinly slice steak on the bias. Put each piece of toast on a plate and arrange sliced steak on toast. Pour over any juices from the steak. Makes 4 servings.
Roasted Broccoli 1 head broccoli 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, sliced ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper ⅛ teaspoon coarse salt Lemon wedges
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Separate broccoli florets and combine in a baking dish with remainder of ingredients. Toss well to coat broccoli and bake in preheated oven until tender and lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.
Roasted Pork Filet
1 pork loin filet (about 1½ pounds) 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon coarse salt ¼ teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper 1 teaspoon oregano ½ lemon 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses plus additional Fresh pomegranate seeds (optional)
Rub pork with olive oil. Combine salt, pepper, and oregano and rub into meat. Place loin in a plastic bag. Squeeze lemon juice over meat and add 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses. Squeeze bag and rotate loin so that it is completely covered with the seasonings. Seal bag and marinate for a few hours or overnight in the refrigerator. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place pork loin in a shallow baking pan and roast, basting occasionally with marinade, until juices run clear when pierced, about 45 minutes. Let meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve drizzled with pomegranate molasses. Garnish with optional fresh pomegranate seeds. Makes 4 servings.
Broiled Catfish & Poached Asparagus Broiled Catfish 4 large catfish filets ¼ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon melted butter Cajun/Creole seasoning 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Lemon wedges
Preheat broiler. Butter broiling pan. Place catfish on pan, pour wine over fish, drizzle with butter, season with Cajun/Creole seasoning. Broil until fish flakes easily with a fork. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.
Poached Asparagus 1 bunch thin asparagus Water to cover 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil Lemon wedges
Trim asparagus and place in a large non-reactive skillet. Cover with water, add salt and oil. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until tender. Drain and serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings
Grilled Chicken & Arugula Salad Grilled Chicken 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 tablespoon olive oil Cajun/Creole seasoning
Rinse chicken breasts and blot dry with paper toweling. Place chicken in a bowl, add olive oil, and toss to coat. Season with Cajun/Creole seasoning. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, for 30 minutes or longer. Preheat grill. Grill chicken breasts until cooked through. (Time will vary, depending on temperature of grill). Makes 4 servings.
Arugula, Walnut, Dried Cherry & Parmesan Salad 6 cups loosely-packed arugula ½ cup walnuts ¼ cup dried cherries 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil 1 ½ teaspoons balsamic vinegar Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Parmesan cheese
Combine arugula, walnuts, and cherries in a salad bowl. Whisk olive oil and vinegar until emulsified; add to salad ingredients and toss. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide salad among 4 plates. Using a vegetable peeler, shave strips of Parmesan over salad. MAKES 4 SERVINGS.
Grilled Eggplant & Green Onions 1 large eggplant Olive oil 1 bunch green onions Coarse salt Pomegranate molasses
Preheat grill. Slice eggplant about ½-inch thick. Brush both sides generously with olive oil. Trim green onions and brush with olive oil. Cook eggplant and onions on hot grill, turning as needed, until softened. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with salt. Serve drizzled with pomegranate molasses. Makes 4 servings.
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Nude leather biker jacket from Ballin’s; Terracotta hi-lo top and pendant necklace from Little Town; Faded washed jeans from Genterie; Brown knee-high boots from Apricot Lane. Olive green faux suede snap front dress from Genterie; Burnt orange over-theknee sock from Little Town; Beige boot knee-highs, purse and boots all from Apricot Lane
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Free-Range Fashion Z++++++
10 Looks for Winter Weather
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As the temperature cools down and nature transitions to fall and winter season, play out your pastoral fashion fantasies in autumn colors, rustic styles and lots of layers.
Styling by Tracee Dundas • Photography by Theresa Cassagne • Modeled by Margaret Eckert & Bianca Finch • Makeup by Glenn Mosley • Hair by Tm. Vaughan • Special thanks to Carl & Jenny Comeaux for the use of their home and hospitality
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LEFT Olive green jersey maxi dress, western fedora, and burnt orange booties from Genterie; Olive and burnt orange knit shrug from Little Town; Necklace from Ballin’s; Leather belt from Coco Eros Right Teal hooded coat and ivory jersey dress both from Ballin’s; Earrings from Coco Eros
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LEFT Khaki aviator jumpsuit from Coco Eros; Multi-strand necklace and bracelet from Little Town Right Burnt orange and polka dot dress from Little Town; Raindrop earrings from Ballin’s (left); Blue suede-like romper from Apricot Lane (right)
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LEFT Camel faux suede vest, ivory cable pattern sweater both from Apricot Lane; Flare leg jeans from Coco Eros; Terracotta beaded bracelet from Ballin’s; leather booties from Genterie Right Red plaid dress and mustard knit infinity scarf both from Little Town; Black short boots from Genterie (black opaque tights model's own) (left); Black knit crop sweater from Genterie; Black plaid leggings, felt hat and earrings from Little Town; Black granny booties from Apricot Lane
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Lâche Pas Sustaining and spreading the tradition of Cajun boucherie By Melanie Warner Spencer & Photography by Denny Culbert
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A
light morning fog lifts off the fields in the distance, as a resident black barn cat ambles into the gravel driveway. About 15 yards away from the white wooden farmhouse, four tents are planted in a row near the fence. The sun begins to rise, as four indistinguishable figures emerge from the tents, their silhouettes receding into the dim light of daybreak. The men step into dewy grass to shake off sleep and get to the day’s business. Nearby the peaceful rustling and snorting sounds of a 258-pound hog drift out of a small black stock trailer. A version of this scene has become commonplace for the men of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine – those guys filing out of the tents – who now are quite well-known throughout Acadiana and beyond, because they have made it their mission to carry on the tradition of and educate people about the practice of Cajun boucherie. On this day, the boucherie is in St. Bernard Parish, about two and a half hours from Lafayette, at Docville Farms (a culture and learning center project of the nonprofit Meraux Foundation). Attendees range from culinary students and chefs to members of Slow Food New Orleans and their children, with proceeds from the event benefiting both the upcoming Slow Fish 2016 and a memorial fund for victims of the shooting in Lafayette and their families. At dawn, before the arrival of curious attendees, Lâche Pas’ Brian Kyzar burns sage and performs a private Native American pipe ceremony and Sun Dance with prayer songs. Kyzar says he began the practice at age 14 and it seemed fitting to incorporate the ceremonies into the boucherie. Soon, artist, carpenter and Lâche Pas’ resident butcher and chef Toby Rodriguez – whom many are familiar with from his appearances on the popular “Cajun Country” episode of the Travel Channel’s “Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,” and Bravo’s “Top Chef” – begins the ritualistic process of laying out on a wooden picnic table and artfully arranging the tools of his trade, including an immense collection of all manner of knives (some antique; some made by Rodriguez; and some gifted or heirlooms from his father and grandfather), mallets, saws, antique ivory handled strait razors (also a gift) and a hatchet. For 30 minutes, the long and lean Rodriguez, clad in a plaid pearl snap shirt and Levis with a red handkerchief dangling out of his back pocket and brown work boots sharpens the blades that need it and loads his Ruger .22 caliber, single six-shot revolver. “I pray for an easy passage,” says Kyzar, as Rodriguez makes his way to the stock trailer. “That the pig accepts it and dies very easily. There’s always a prayer; I just take it up a notch or two.”
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Rodriguez enters the trailer. His voice mingles softly with the snorting and vocalizing of the pig. Outside, Kyzar lights a bundle of sage. “We really like to push [the ceremonial] side of things, to let people know how special it is,” Kyzar says. “It’s life and death.” Rodriguez exits the trailer as attendees quietly gather around it. Chris George of George Family Farms in Montgomery, Alabama, who raised the pig, offers a blessing. Rodriguez opens the trailer door ever so slightly and makes shushing noises as the hog approaches the door to have a bite of food from a pan.There is a faint black “X” on the animal's forehead. A shot rings out and the pig falls sideways into the trailer. The Lâche Pas team quickly pulls the animal toward the door. Rodriguez draws a knife across her throat, beginning the process of draining the blood into a pan for use later in making the boudin. The sound of Barrett Dupuis scraping a metal whisk on the sides of a stainless steel bowl to combine salt into the blood and keep it from coagulating mixes with the stifled sobs of a few of those in the circle around the trailer. Kyzar and Chris McIntyre stroke and comfort the animal until the end. “There she goes,” says Kyzar. Swiftly, the pig is transferred from the trailer to a wooden platform with handles. The men carry the platform and its cargo to an area closer to the house and hoist it onto a pair of sawhorses. Kyzar hands Rodriguez a bottle of Buffalo Trace Kentucky Bourbon, and he takes a swig. He then passes the bottle to each member of Lâche Pas, and they each have a pull. The animal is covered with burlap next, and Rodriguez douses the temporary wrapping with boiling hot water. “When you are there at a boucherie, or any time an animal is killed, they put it on the table and there is a pathos,” says Kevin McCaffrey, Louisiana Folklife Program Commissioner and the documentary film producer behind "No One Ever Went Hungry: Acadian Food Traditions Then & Now." “At some point, an animal turns to food.” McCaffrey says the experience of the boucherie historically is about survival, community and sustainability. The 268-pound hog was raised at George Family Farms in Montgomery, Alabama. Rodriguez of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine and his team work to keep the animal comfortable and calm throughout the morning. A blessing is conducted prior to the slaughter, to show gratitude and honor to the animal and to mark the solemnity of the occasion.
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“The family raised it and the animal gave its life,” McCaffrey says. “But, it’s what you do with preparations, especially in the Cajun sense – you try to use it all. The boucherie itself was a kind of sustainability.” In the early 1900s, the use of the French language was banned in schools, setting off a chain reaction that would send Cajun culture into decline. “Where they found that Cajun-French culture was in the music and food,” McCaffrey says. “You had guys like [musicians] Marc Savoy and Michael Doucet who carried on a tradition of boucherie.” As Rodriguez and the culinary students begin shaving the pig to remove the hair, the faint sound of music is in the air. Roddie Romero of Roddie Romero and the Hub City All-Stars and a couple members of the band are providing the days musical entertainment. They are warming up in the covered picnic area. It’s announced that cowboy coffee and homemade blueberry cornbread are available on the patio, the bar is opening soon, and as Romero and his bandmate quietly play a few songs on the accordion and guitar, the earlier solemnity gives way to festivity. Suddenly, a Ford F-150 rolls up, and an imposing man sporting a moustache and overalls yells out the window in CajunFrench. Several attendees respond in kind. The newcomer is Tom Crosby, and he’s here to make the cracklins or grattons.
Toby Rodriguez of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine walks toward the butchering station as members of his team and attendees move the pig. Culinary students then assist at shaving the pig and finally Rodriguez runs a blowtorch over the skin to make sure there are no stray hairs. A chef cuts organ meat for the fraisseurs. The Vaucresson's Sausage Company team mans the sausage station. Crosby jumps out of the truck, walks over to the table and slaps the pig saying, “Me and you gonna be good friends for the next four hours!” Once the students, Kyzar and Rodriguez finish shaving the pig, Rodriguez makes a final pass at it with a blowtorch to ensure that it is clean and free of fuzz. “There’s nothing worse than hairy cracklins,” jokes Chris Haines, a member of the board of directors for the Meraux Foundation. The pig is turned onto its back. Rodriguez, ever the showman, says that as an artist he’s aware of subtle nuances that open people’s minds and allow them to absorb what’s in front of them, resulting in a strong sense of presence. He leaps onto the table with one foot on each side of the animal. A long white apron is tied around his waist and hovers above the smooth belly of the pig.
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A hatchet hangs from one side of his belt in a leather holder and an orthopedic mallet and other tools swing from the other side. He begins to explain the butchering process. “Usually this would be done by hanging the pig nose-down,” Rodriguez tells the group. “This is the way I grew up doing it.” The goal, Rodriguez explains, is to keep all of the parts clean, since they want to use as much of the animal as possible. He makes the first cut from the chin down through the neck then splits the sternum with the mallet and hatchet as a person holds each leg. Quickly, Rodriguez begins butchering the hog. With a sculptor's precision, he carves and shapes the sum down to its preferred parts. He is assisted by Ryan Hughes, chef and owner of Purloo, located in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans. Hughes, who often takes road trips throughout the South and Cajun country to farms, restaurants and
Each station is tasked with preparing a different part of the animal. From smoking sausage in a barrel smoker, to grilling and manning the "Cajun Microwave," or large Dutch oven, the goal is to use every part of the animal that's possible. In the prerefrigeration days, the meats would be prepared for storage and used in the coming months. The tradition of Cajun boucherie is handed down generation to generation through a mentoring program, says Louisiana Folklife Commissioner, Kevin McCaffrey. Rodriguez says he has taken part in boucheries his entire life and has done it professionally for about seven years.
other culinary events and destinations, is dedicated to learning about the region’s culinary traditions and educating culinary students and the public at large about the culture and history behind the cuisine. The band is in full swing and the bar is slinging beer from 40 Arpent Brewing Co., located in nearby Arabi. Cornbread and red beans and rice are offered up on the patio to pacify growling bellies while the butchering is completed, the cracklins sizzle in a big black cauldron under Crosby’s watchful eye and the meat is prepared for cooking. Vance Vaucresson of Vaucresson’s Sausage Company starts getting sausage ready for the barrel smoker and the other stations are prepped by their respective captains for the grilled meats, hams cooked in the “Cajun microwave,” (a large charcoal-heated Dutch oven) and fraisseurs or organ meat stew. Chris McIntyre, who assisted earlier with the slaughtering of the pig and some of the butchering, is now sipping a beer near the fraisseurs station. “Typically I do the fraisseurs,” McIntyre says, explaining that he relinquished his captain status to a local chef for the day. He didn’t experience boucheries growing up. After architecture school in Lafayette, McIntyre worked with Rodriguez on building projects and was introduced to it. “Every night someone was cooking,” McIntyre says. “That’s how [Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine] sort of started.” Over the past two years, the Lâche Pas group has done more than 40 events all over the United States in keeping with their mission to educate people and keep the boucherie custom alive.
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Traditionally the many fruits of the day’s labors would of course be set aside for the coming months, since in prerefrigeration days when the tradition started the purpose was to preserve meat for winter. These days however it has become more of a celebration of culture and community – and in this case education – so by days end all of the meat is heartily consumed by ravenous attendees. Not long after the lines die down and everyone has their crack at pork chops and loin, sausage and stews – and Crosby’s creamy, crispy cracklins – Rodriguez bellies up to the bar for a well-earned break and a cold beer. Slaughtering and butchering a pig is of course physical work, but also emotional, spiritual and creative. McCaffrey says the performance element is cultural, traditional and ritualistic. The artist and adept performer in Rodriguez are on full display during the boucherie and for several reasons, including those McCaffrey cites. “There is an element of theater,” Rodriguez says. “If you can get people to connect emotionally, they’ll be more affected by it. There is an emotional detachment to where people's food comes from. When people are close to the source, you think twice about throwing away a half plate of food. The boucherie becomes a vehicle for someone to feel emotional toward their food source, which starts out as a living creature.” Rodriguez writes poetic prose on the Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine website and blog about his other inspirations for keeping
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Community, sustainability, spirituality and ritual are all integral elements of the Cajun boucherie. It's important to honor the animal for its sacrifice and sustain the bounty by limiting waste. For the Slow Food New Orleans boucherie, the waste amounted to less than a third of a five-pound bucket. It would have been less had someone agreed to make chitlins with the intestines, a challenging and messy endeavor. (L to R) Barrett Dupuis, Chris McIntyre, Toby Rodriguez and Bryan Kyzar of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine have done approximately 40 boucherie events across the United States over the past two years. They hope to educate people about the tradition and keep it alive in Acadiana. the tradition alive. He writes that it’s about family, friends and community, but most importantly about preserving the culture and sharing the heritage with his daughter. Getting people to connect with their food source however, is a large part of the public message. "It's absolutely essential these days," Rodriguez says. "We have no guilt or remorse. It's just a patty or a sausage. It's not a cow or a pig." Echoes of these strongly held sentiments are driven home again and again by the Lâche Pas team. “It’s a spiritual thing,” McIntyre says. “It’s very emotional and special. You’re taking the animal and turning it into food. There’s no waste. It’s the most honorable way an animal can go out. That’s what it’s about. And community. •
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culture les personnes 80
As president of the River Parishes’ Festival of the Bonfires, Rhonda Lee’s passion for the volunteers she directs – and the spectacular show they put on – burns brightly. by will kalec
la musique 84
Joe Hall and the Cane Cutters blend Creole, Cajun and traditional zydeco. by michael patrick welCh
en français 88 Cent ans, cent lignes par david cheramie
culture LES DE LA personnes CUISINE
in a festive mood As president of the River Parishes’ Festival of The Bonfires, Rhonda Lee’s passion for the volunteers she directs – and the spectacular show they put on – burns brightly. by will kalec photo by romero & romero
By the time you read
Rhonda Lee at the St. James Parish Welcome Center in front of a bonfire structure.
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this, Rhonda Lee’s life will resemble a tinsel whirlwind wrapped in Christmas ribbon, a nonstop holiday hustle so complex, so heated and so jam-packed with so many deadlines that even Frosty the Snowman would melt under the pressure. But don’t you dare feel sorry, Lee pleads.
“Sweetie, it’s always crazy in my life,” Lee says, that punchline chased by an uproarious but genuine laugh that makes you wanna laugh, too. “So this isn’t nothing new. It’s is crazy, but it’s fun-crazy.” This is chaos by choice – a taxing labor of love that blossoms into two of the most captivating and truly Cajun celebrations: The Festival of The Bonfires and the Christmas Eve Lighting Along The Levee. From the sky, it’s a sight unlike any other, an illuminated row of bursting oranges and reds stretching along the Mississippi River, from one bridge to another. From the ground, the flames cast a warm rush upon cold cheeks, reflected in wide eyes and dropped jaws as the buddle crowd stares at the immensity of the bonfire. Either way – whether your vantage point is high above or down below – it’s inspiration enough to bring grown-ups to tears. “I’ve known friends who fly overhead in private planes, and they say it’s aweinspiring,” Lee says, pausing to collect her own emotions. “I’d like to see that one day, to see what it’s like looking from way up there. But even on the ground, it’s just incredible and it’s ours. It’s our own tradition.” On its silver anniversary, the 2015 Festival of the Bonfires will be held Dec. 11-13 at Lutcher Recreational Park. With attractions and crowds growing every year, Lee expects attendance to once again exceed 8,000 and possibly flirt with five figures. Thankfully,
Lee will once again lean on her trusty team of 60 volunteers to accommodate the swelling crowds. “The beauty is, everyone knows their role inside and out,” Lee says. “The crafters person takes care of the crafters. The setting-up people take care of setting up. The food vendors – which mostly I take care of – know the person they are dealing with. So everyone has a job to do, and we do it well. “That trust and that familiarity helps make this event run so smoothly. I don’t have to worry about things getting done.” Never was that more evident than a couple years back. On Thanksgiving Day, Lee lost her mother and then within a week, her father suffered a massive stroke. The Festival – a community event Lee’s been involved even when she didn’t live in the community – was less than two weeks away. “My team just took over,” Lee says. “Everything was taken care of. They let me take care of my things. This team was so amazing. They weren’t a team, they were and are a family. Loyal like a family. My core group is awesome.” Because of the lack of volunteer turnover, Lee claims her group can set up the entire festival within 2.5 days. Though she’s always busy and running around, Lee permits herself a few precious moments to enjoy the surrounding splendor. The music and food-filled weekend celebration is the perfect primer for the spectacle that is the
A STUNNING COLLECTION OF 50 TRADITIONAL (AND SOME NON-TRADITIONAL) LOUISIANA RECIPES. AN ABSOLUTE MUST HAVE FOR YOUR KITCHEN, OR THE PERFECT GIFT FOR A LOUISIANA FOOD LOVER.
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Author Stanley Dry — Louisiana Life “Kitchen Gourmet” columnist, former senior editor of Food & Wine magazine and accomplished cook — brings history, culture and spice together in his first book, The Essential Louisiana Cookbook, a Louisiana Life product by Renaissance Publishing. From classics, such as red beans and rice and a variety of delectable gumbos, to modern creations sure to become weeknight traditions, this collection of recipes will be a go-to for native Louisianans and those new to the state’s rich culinary landscape.
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LES personnes
Christmas Eve bonfire lightings along the Mississippi River levee – a tradition with an unknown exact origin but dates back more than a century. The most commonly accepted reason behind the blazes concludes they were set by German and French settlers in St. James Parish to light a clear path for “Papa Noel.” Lee handles much of the publicity and sponsorships tied to the preChristmas lightings, even appearing on local TV morning shows to encourage those from neighboring parishes to come witness this one-of-a-kind tradition. “The festival and the lighting are two different things, but they are certainly connected,” Lee says. “I wouldn’t recommend choosing one over the other, or you’ll miss out.” Especially during the opening Friday of the festival. Yes, Saturday features a ton of live music and a bonfire on the levee, and Sunday is when the ever-popular 5K walk/run is held, but Friday is the date of the annual Gumbo Cook-Off – a delight for just about every human sense. Last year, dozens of chefs – some formally trained, some trial-and-error trained – whipped up their special batches, all vying for top honors (or at least a crown in specific gumbo sub-categories). The best part? Festival-goers are permitted to sample the entries. “There’s just so much to enjoy,” Lee says, in a reminiscing mood. “I’ve been a part of this for a long, long time – back when it started in a small pavilion. But every year is different, every year there’s something new to see and do, and something that just keeps me coming back every year and so many other people, too. “I still get that itch to be out there,” Lee continues. “I’ve been doing it too long to sweat the little details and not enjoy it. You want it to be perfect, you want it to all run smoothly, but no matter what, it’s going to be perfect in its own way. Lee pauses to laugh, before delivering a classic funny line that’s like topping a tree with a star. “Plus, we tell each other, if we mess up, it’s not like anyone is going to know.”
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culture lA musique
joe hall and the cane cutters This Arnaudville group blends Creole, Cajun and traditional zydeco. By Michael Patrick Welch | photo By romero & Romero
Growing up, a young Joe Hall loved hearing his grandfather play accordion, and at age 7, he decided he’d follow suit.
To listen to Joe Hall and the Cane Cutters, visit acadianaprofile.com.
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Louisiana boasts its share of
rare species – some of which are even endangered. One such animal is the Creole accordion player, according to Joe Hall, leader of the Cane Cutters, who claims to be one of the last left around Louisiana. While Louisiana zydeco has in recent years absorbed some hip-hop and other modern influences, Hall says his original, largely instrumental music remains, “A mixture of Cajun Creole and the influences of some older musicians. I like to believe I can do all the styles,” says Hall, via phone from his home in Arnaudville. “I like to do the Boozoo Chavez-type music when I have my full band. But when we’re working between traditional Creole and Cajun music, and I have to play zydeco, I mostly lean toward traditional zydeco.” But unlike a lot of other zydeco traditionalists, Hall claims just as many influences from Creole as from Cajun. “Cajun is more technical; they’re technicians on the accordion,” explains Hall. “The Cajun player concentrates on making key changes in different keys. A lot of those cats can play just fiddle and acoustic guitar with the accordion.” His Creole and zydeco influences pull him a different direction: “With that music we get more and more syncopation. Sometimes you can hear the Creole guys playing in the same key the whole time. Sometimes you’d think it’s the same song! But Creole’s just really more about the rhythm.” But though he labels himself a Creole musician, “I never discriminated about whether the music was Cajun or Creole; I just wanted to learn all of it,” he says. “Even today I always play with Cajun bands. Cajun bands call me to come sit in for their accordion player. Even though I have my own full Cajun Creole band with the drummer and the scrub board, I always keep a Cajun band around I would play with.” Recently, Hall has slowly been chipping away at writing and recording his follow up album to 2011’s Thirty Dobb Special, hopefully in time for the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, where Joe Hall and the Cane Cutters have played on the Fais Do Do stage for the last few years:
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lA musique “With the new album I am trying to do something dedicated to my musical influences and my family heritage,” says Hall, citing a song dedicated to his forth great-grandfather, called, “Washington Gailes Two Step.” Despite his old-school leanings, Hall also strives to stand out. “What makes my music different from regular, is my music has only Louisiana influence,” explains Hall, who feels blessed to have grown up at the tapping, stomping feet of his grandfather Clement “King” Ned, who Hall describes as a “Creole house-dance accordion player,” important enough to be recorded and documented for the Library of Congress as well as the Smithsonian. “His style was kinda raw,” says Hall. “He was a hell of a vocalist, and he played a style where he’d play accordion and sing and stomp and it was a one-man thing for the most part. Every now and then people he’d play with other people. Like myself, he always liked to have a fiddle player with him, but if there was no fiddle player he would sit down and sing and play. “That’s where I got the love of playing music from. I would watch my grandfather and listen until finally one day, around the age of 7, I turned to my mama and I said, ‘I am gonna do that, too.’” Grandfather Hall died before he could teach his grandson the accordion, but the Acadiana region provided young Hall more than a few mentors. An uncle purchased Hall his first accordion, and at 16 Hall started really learning from the legendary likes of Alphonse “Bois Sec” Ardoin, Canray Fontenot, and Carlton Frank, among other local legends. “I was fortunate enough to learn from people like Bois Sec Ardoin, Nolten Semien, and Calvin and Bébé Carriere,” he says. Hall sat in on many a Saturday night at famous jam sessions led by the great Marc Savoy. “And then I hooked up with [famous fiddle player] Mitch Reed. I went to his (Front Room) music shop (in Scott), and we discovered that together we had a nice warm sound, so we’ve played a lot of gigs together.” These musical legends raised Hall to keep Acadiana’s musical traditions alive. “I like modern music,” says Hall, “unless it takes away from the tradition – then I tend to have a problem with it. It just don’t feel right!”
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acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
acadianaprofile.com
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culture en français, s’il vous plaît
cent ans, cent lignes Norvelle Hover (éditeur de L’Acadien pour 1938) présente l’annuaire au surintendant T. H Harris (Cette édition fut dédiee à Harris).
par david cheramie
Il y a cent ans,
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associé avec lui a eu des conséquences néfastes qu’on essaie de rectifier depuis presque cinquante ans. Harris a promulgué un ordre en 1915 qui décrétait que la langue anglaise serait la seule permise dans les écoles louisianaises. L’année suivante, la loi sur l’assiduité obligatoire forçait les familles partout dans l’état de scolariser leurs enfants sous peine d’amende, voire de prison. Comme grand nombre d’eux vivaient dans une pauvreté extrême, n’ayant donc pas les moyens de payer les sanctions, ils n’avaient pas d’autre choix que de mettre leurs enfants sur le chemin de l’école pour la première fois de leur vie. Des milliers d’enfants louisianais se sont trouvés dans une salle de classe où ils ne comprenaient rien à ce que la maîtresse, souvent francophone
acadiana profile december 2015/january 2016
elle-même, disait en anglais, au lieu d’être dans les clos de coton ou sur les bateaux de pêche où ils servaient de main-d’œuvre utile à leurs parents. On peut difficilement argumenter de nos jours que les petits étaient mieux à l’ouvrage qu’à l’apprentissage de l’alphabet, mais on peut affirmer que la transition aurait pu se passer de façon moins brute. La loi sur l’assiduité obligatoire a également autorisé la punition corporelle contre les enfants. Les témoignages d’enfants forcés à s’agenouiller sur du riz ou du maïs ont été largement documentés, ainsi que d’autres humiliations, comme le fait de se souiller parce qu’on ne savait pas demander la permission d’aller aux toilettes en anglais. La plus répandue et la plus connue était sans doute l’écriture cent fois de
ce que le poète Jean Arceneaux appelait « ces sacrées lignes » : « I will not speak French on the school ground. » Cette punition était d’autant plus pernicieuse quand on considère qu’à l’époque, les élèves devaient fournir leur propre papier. Beaucoup d’enfants récupéraient le papier blanc qui enveloppait le pain car leurs parents n’avaient pas les moyens d’en acheter. Ça faisait qu’après les cent lignes, ils n’avaient pas de papier pour faire les leçons. Une double punition, une fois pour la pauvreté et une deuxième pour parler français. Le surintendant Harris s’est escrimé pour l’avancement de l’éducation selon les normes de son temps; on ne peut douter de sa sincérité. L’Amérique au début du siècle précédant
subissait d’énormes changements et par l’industrialisation de l’économie et par la diversification de sa population. À plusieurs reprises dans de nombreux discours publics et de correspondance personnelle, Teddy Roosevelt répétait l’idée que l’Amérique n’avait de la place que pour une seule langue, la langue anglaise, et que le creuset devait produire des citoyens américains loyaux et non pas « des pensionnaires polyglottes de passage ». C’est avec cet état d’esprit que notre pays est rentré de pleins pieds dans le XXe siècle. De nos jours, la question de l’immigration et de l’assimilation est toujours d’actualité et soulève bien des passions. Toutefois, depuis une centaine d’années, notre expérience en Louisiane montre clairement que notre pays est assez fort pour supporter une grande variété de gens qui font partie intégrante de la nation américaine et qui donnent lagniappe à tout le monde.
For an English translation, visit acadianaprofile.com.
SLI Photograph Album No. 4, 1938-1941, p.#4 photo #b, University Archives and Acadiana Manuscripts Collection, Edith Garland Dupré Library, University of Louisiana at Lafayette
le surintendant d’éducation de la Louisiane était T. H Harris, un poste qu’il a occupé pendant 32 ans, de 1908 à 1940. Ce nom est surtout connu en Acadiana comme celui du campus de l’école technique aux Opélousas ou, avant la création de TOPS, la bourse universitaire éponyme. M. Harris était originaire de la paroisse Claiborne dans l’extrême nord de l’état à la frontière des Arkansas. Dans sa longue carrière d’éducateur il a rempli plusieurs postes un peu partout en Louisiane. Il a étudié aux Natchitoches à l’École Normale, aujourd’hui l’Université du Nord-ouest de l’État, et enseigné à Winnsboro, au Lac Charles, aux Opélousas et au Bâton-Rouge. Pendant son mandat, plusieurs programmes pour l’amélioration de l’éducation ont été mis en place : la titularisation des enseignants, les standards de certification et la retraite des employés. Il a aussi créé les écoles techniques et un système de financement partagé entre les paroisses et l’état. Les politiciens louisianais continuent à fignoler ces bases de l’éducation actuelle qui ont été formulées à cette époque. Mais un acte qui est passé en 1916 sous Harris et qui n’est pas forcément