GULF COAST TRAVEL
It’s Time For Breakfast 5 Classic and Modern Louisiana Recipes
Fried Chicken and Waffles
March/April 2021 $6.95 DISPLAY UNTIL APRIL 30, 2021
MARCH/APRIL 2021
March/April
VOLUME 41 NUMBER 2
6
FROM THE EXECUTIVE EDITOR’S DESK
Pain Perdu’s New Status 8
PELICAN BRIEFS
Noteworthy news and happenings around the state 10
HEALTH
Indulge in sweet and savory snack options that are healthier than their conventional counterparts 12
LITERARY LOUISIANA
This season, enjoy outdoor adventure, poetry, community storytelling and cross generational tales from home! 14
MADE IN LOUISIANA
La BackBeat is making handcrafted drumsticks ready for rhythm in Acadiana 16
ART
Ruston artist Christiane Drieling explores contemporary issues via imagery borrowed from German fairytales 20
HOME
Russ Sonnier restores a midcentury modern house first encountered during his childhood 44
KITCHEN GOURMET
This time of year, the humble egg reigns supreme 46
→
TRAVELER
24
Daybreak 5 Classic and modern Louisiana breakfast recipes
34
Beach, Please Making a great escape to Gulf Shores and Orange Beach
Everything you need to know about Louisiana State Parks’ new glamping accommodations 48
PHOTO CONTEST
Grand Cypress In Lake Martin stands tall in the early evening light
EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE EDITOR Errol Laborde MANAGING EDITOR Melanie Warner Spencer ASSOCIATE EDITOR Ashley McLellan COPY EDITOR Liz Clearman WEB EDITOR Kelly Massicot FOOD EDITOR Stanley Dry HOME EDITOR Lee Cutrone ART DIRECTOR Sarah George LEAD PHOTOGRAPHER Danley Romero SALES SALES MANAGER Rebecca Taylor (337) 298-4424 / (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 Rebecca@LouisianaLife.com INTERN Ella Carrier
RENAISSANCE PUBLISHING MARKETING COORDINATOR Abbie Dugruise PRODUCTION DESIGNERS Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney CIRCULATION SUBSCRIPTIONS Jessica Armand DISTRIBUTION John Holzer ADMINISTRATION OFFICE MANAGER Mallary Wolfe CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Todd Matherne For subscriptions call 877-221-3512
110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 128 Demanade, Suite 104 Lafayette, LA 70503 (337) 235-7919 xt 230 LouisianaLife.com Louisiana Life (ISSN 1042-9980) is published bimonthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rate: One year $10; Mexico and Canada $48. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Louisiana Life, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2021 Louisiana Life. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Louisiana Life is registered. Louisiana Life is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Louisiana Life are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner.
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 5
FRO M TH E E X E CUTIVE E D ITOR ’ S D ES K
P O D C A ST
Pain Perdu’s New Status
Louisiana Insider
A
t first glance the French breakfast dish pain perdu doesn’t have much to recommend it, especially if you only speak English. The word “pain” is not what one would be looking for in a breakfast selection, and the English name for the dish, “Lost Bread” raises a flag about exactly why it is missing. Fortunately, the dish is also known as “French Toast,” not only skipping “pain,” the French word for “bread,” but also providing a strong culinary selling point with the word “French.” Our cover story this issue talks about classic breakfasts, a topic that got me thinking about home breakfasts experienced as a kid that were, like my family, French in origin and American in tradition. Pain Perdu was a classic example. The old-world version incorporated bread, of various choices though frequently French bread, dipped in an egg and milk mix; and seasoned with all sorts of things that could include vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon. The slices were then pan-fried to become crispy. From there the diner slapped on butter, syrup and whatever else was in reach, pancake style. Classic French Toast is even more classic in Louisiana because of the heritage thing and because we have ample access to loaves of crispy French bread. There is, of course a class system to most foods including people such as me as a school kid sleepily working through breakfast. Mom used sliced white bread instead of French bread which everyone knew should be reserved for poor boys. Instead of syrup there was jam and I doubt if nutmeg ever made it across the kitchen transom. If there were a couple of slices of bacon on the side they were welcomed. That was about as good as a breakfast could be. This year, indeed, this season, is especially historic in the world of French Toast. After forever being merely a pleasant cross-ethic dish served occasionally in home kitchens or restaurant brunch menus, Lost Bread (by any name) has achieved what may be the highest status in the world of breakfast foods. Move over waffles, French Toast has influenced a flavor in the 2021 version of Girl Scout cookies. Known officially as the “Toast-Yay,” the writing on the package describes the cookie as “French toast inspired.” It is further revealed that the cookies, which are shaped like slices of toast, are “dipped in delicious icing and full of flavor in every bite. Yay.” I did ask a random sampler who told me that the cookie was delicious, she also revealed that she shared a cookie with a friend who, is “seldom effusive about anything, and he said it was extraordinary.” So, the once lowly pain perdu has made it from the kitchen table to the bright lights of Girl Scout cookies. Lost Bread still clings to its Louisiana heritage, only now it has been discovered.
Catch up on the latest podcast episodes
EPISODE 25
If You Were An Escaping Nazi P.O.W., Louisiana Was A Far Place To Swim From; National WWII Museum Besides sending many of its best overseas, Louisiana played important roles in World War II including ship manufacturing, training and housing German POWs. Guest: Kim Guise, a curator for the National WWII Museum talks about the war and her specialty, the role of women.
EPISODE 24
What Do A Zydeco Expert And An Authority On Ancient Roman Technology Have In Common? The answer to the above question is that they are both among this year’s class of Louisianians of the Year. The two – Zydeco buff Herman Fuselier and teacher Nathalie Roy – are part of the nine selected this year by Louisiana Life magazine. Guest: Melanie Warner Spencer, Louisiana Life magazines’s managing editor talks about this year’s talented group.
EPISODE 23
Cajun Navy – Riding Rough Waves ERROL LABORDE EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Note: In our January/February 2020 “Travel Resolutions” feature, we identified Bonnie Breaux as the chef at Café Sydnie Mae. The kitchen is in fact helmed by C.I.A. graduate, Executive Chef Kimberly Nuzum. We regret the error.
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They’re not all Cajuns nor are there any admirals in the bunch, but they have certainly experienced battles on the water and on the land. Guest: Rob Gaudet, the founder of the Cajun Navy talks about the group’s rescue effort through high waters and cyclones including Hurricane Harvey in Houston and the storms that have hit Lake Charles and Southern Louisiana.
S AL E S
REBECCA TAYLOR Sales Manager (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 Rebecca@LouisianaLife.com
Coming up!
MAY/JUNE 2021
Roadtrips in the State PLUS
Farther Flung: Arkansas
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 7
PEL I C AN B RIE FS
Saints Takeover Drew’s Walk-On’s to expand in Baton Rouge, Hammond, Thibodaux, Starkville BY LISA LEBLANC-BERRY
NEW APP ALERT SHREVEPORT
Louisiana has a new (free) app to help users know when they are at risk of exposure to COVID-19: COVID Defense is Louisiana’s new exposure notification mobile app to help slow the spread. No personal info is required. It can be downloaded in the iPhone App Store or Android Google Play Store (coviddefensela.com).
Males Giving Birth The Shreveport Aquarium announced a few dozen baby seahorses (known as fry) were recently born at the aquarium. The female deposits her eggs inside the male’s pouch while mating, he then fertilizes the eggs and carries the babies. Check out the educational Shreveport AQUAdemy (M-F, K-6) complete with free customized lesson packets exploring aquatic life (shreveportaquarium.com). LAFAYETTE
Fly, Fly Away American Airlines will offer direct flights from Lafayette to Charlotte, North Carolina starting April 2. While American has pulled back on some of its U.S. flights, it will continue all of its daily flights out of Lafayette Regional Airport, which ended 2020 with less than half the passenger count of 2019 due to COVID. Departures, however, increased each month until a record was reached in December, the largest departing passengers totals since the pandemic began. BATON ROUGE
Castille Breaks a Glass Ceiling
B
eloved New Orleans Saints quarterback, Drew Brees, (a graduate of Purdue University), is on board with his partners’ plans to expand the Baton Rouge-based Walk-On’s Sports Bistreaux chain to myriad college campuses, including one at Purdue. Opening 25 more Walk-On’s nationwide in 2021 will include restaurants in Hammond and Thibodaux. Smaller models dubbed “The Bulldog” are underway, with the first to open in Starkville, Mississippi (walk-ons.com).
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Louisiana native Carrie Castille was recently named director of the National Institute of Food and Agriculture by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. A graduate of LSU and ULL, she was a natural resource leader at LSU prior to serving as associate commissioner and senior advisor to the commissioner for the Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry. Castille will be the first female to serve as NIFA Director (nifa.usda.gov).
→ EDITOR’S NOTE: DUE TO COVID-19 PHASING, CALL AHEAD BEFORE VISITING PHOTO COURTESY WALK-ON’S SPORTS BISTREAUX
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 9
HEALTH Y LOUISIANA
Simple Swaps
Fresh Take
Indulge in sweet and savory snack options that are healthier than their conventional counterparts
What is in season right now
BY FRITZ ESKER
FAVA BEANS
Fava beans are rich in fiber, plant proteins, and other vitamins and minerals. It can aid digestion, boost your immune system, mitigate Parkinson’s Disease symptoms, and help prevent birth defects.
I
f you’re looking to eat healthier, there are many simple switches you can make to help you achieve that goal. But before looking at swaps, Molly Kimball, a registered dietitian at Ochsner Fitness Center, says self-knowledge is key. If you’re able to just have a few potato chips from time to time, it’s no big deal. But if you’re the type of person who will quickly demolish a large bag of chips, then it can be a problem and you should consider healthier options. “You know whether or not you can trust yourself,” Kimball says.
STARBUCKS-STYLE COFFEE DRINKS
CHIPS
CHOCOLATE
It’s common knowledge potato chips are not healthy. But Kimball says many seemingly healthy alternatives aren’t that healthy, either. She says many brands of veggie chips have unhealthy amounts of potato starch and rice flour in them. Instead, Kimball recommends reaching for black bean chips (Beanitos and Beanfields are her chosen brands). Rhythm Foods also has cauliflower bites that can work as a substitute. SWEET SNACKS
If you like sugary candies, Kimball says you to try SmartSweets. These are gummie candies with plantbased sweeteners instead of sugar. They’re also packed with probiotic fiber to aid with digestive health.
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For lovers of frappuccinos and similar coffee-based drinks, Kimball suggests making your own. Use coffee concentrate, a shot of chocolate or vanilla protein powder and a shot of almond or coconut milk instead of dairy. “This will give you more protein, less sugar, and it will cost less,” Kimball says. If you don’t want to make your own beverage, Smoothie King has coffee smoothies and PJ’s also has a Protein Velvet Ice beverage. Both are healthy options. Chocolate aficionados are in luck, but again, it’s all about the ingredients. Kimball says look for chocolate that has 70% or greater cocoa content. Most brands offering this will advertise it prominently on their label. Why does it matter? Chocolate with high cocoa content features antioxidants that can improve overall health and lower the risk for heart disease. Kimball says Choc Zero offers individually wrapped chocolates with monkfruit sweetener instead of sugar. “It really helps with portion control,” Kimball says. n
RADISHES
Radishes are an excellent source of vitamin C. They also contain potassium that can help regulate blood pressure. Slice them up and use them as a garnish on your next salad.
THYME
Full of vitamins C and A, thyme is an excellent immune booster. It’s a simple, tasty addition to a number of dishes, especially omelets. It also works well as poultry seasoning.
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 11
L IT ERARY LOUISIANA
Spring into Reading This season, enjoy outdoor adventure, poetry, community storytelling and cross generational tales from home! BY ASHLEY MCLELLAN
PERSONAL POETIC
TALES FROM THE RIVER
Wild Juice: Poems
They Called Us River Rats: The Last Batture Settlement of New Orleans
BY ASHLEY MACE HAVIRD
Shreveport writer and poet Ashley Mace Havird debuts her fourth collection of poems with “Wild Juice,” in which she explores themes that take the reader from various sea coasts to the deep South and into surburbia. Havird challenges with poems that tackle loss on both a personal and global scale. Climate change, aging and life losses are the universal issues her poems address with wry wit and irony. Her poems and stories have appeared in “Shenandoah,” “The Southern Review” and “Virginia Quarterly Review.” 78 pages, $17.95.
BY MACON FRY
Along the banks of the Mississippi River, just alongside of the city of New Orleans, lies the batture. It is at once shore and river, an area between the tides and the levee that is in constant flux with the weather. This is the home of the outsider community that for generations has lived in houses raised on stilts, boats and rafts and has passed along their stories to tightknit groups of friends and relatives. Author and batture resident Macon Fry has collected stories from the hardy, inventive, ramshackle community in which he lives. This is their story of living on the edge while urbanization and changing climates continue to pull them away from the place they call home. 176 pages, $25.
SOUTHERN SCIENCE
Backyard Science & Discovery Workbook: South BY ERIKA ZAMBELLO
PAST AND PRESENT
The House Uptown: A Novel BY MELISSA GINSBURG
After the long months of quarantine, plus the cold winter weather, spring is finally here and kids of all ages will be excited to return to some outdoor fun. “Backyard Science & Discovery Workbook: South,” is chock full of experiments, activities and games to enjoy in your local park or even your own backyard. Kids and families will learn about birds, habitats, animals, insects and more that are specific to Louisiana and surrounding Southern states from North Carolina to Oklahoma. Unlock your hidden scientist and inspire learning with this treasure trove of natural adventures. 112 pages, $14.95.
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When 14-year old Ava’s mother dies, she soon finds herself on a train to live with her maternal grandmother, Lane, an eccentric New Orleans artist who is the opposite of everything Ava knows. Lane struggles with her lost relationship with her own daughter as she now must navigate raising her granddaughter, all while letting go of a past that haunts her. Set among the colorful backdrop of New Orleans, the two learn how to live and love together, across generations. 256 pages, $26.99.
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LO UIS IANA MADE
Stick With It La BackBeat is making handcrafted drumsticks ready for rhythm in Acadiana BY JEFFREY ROEDEL PHOTOS BY ROMERO & ROMERO
S
aturdays always meant chores in the Kincel house. Early mornings brought work in dad’s small backyard shed or hours sweating under the car hood in the driveway — all while Frank Kincel’s friends were playing ball and biking the roads around Lafayette, wind in their faces carefree. But not this Saturday. Kincel was 10, a hoarder of catalogs boasting drums the family couldn’t afford and an attacker of his mom’s cabinet drawers with anything that could be used to make a beat, when his typically stern father asked him if he wanted to try making a kick drum pedal at home. The boy’s kit was a ramshackle assembly of spare parts, a few busted-up drums from the neighbor’s trash coupled with pots and pans and jury-rigged to not implode. But he needed a kick. Led Zeppelin’s John Bonham thunders with a kick. After showing his father some catalog pictures, the pair got to work. Using a four-speed stick shift knob he’d been eyeing in a junk drawer, an old hinge, two pieces of leftover wood, rubber bands, some copper tubing and a chain, they were done before dinner. “I was ecstatic, even though it was so primitive,” Kincel says. “They couldn’t get me off those drums to come to the table.” It was crude. It was loud. It was very punk. Making his own kit at 10 put Kincel on the path to producing quality, handcrafted drumsticks that musicians across Louisiana and the world are discovering. “Me and old machines have a relationship — I love them,” Kincel says as he pulls a lathe instruction manual from his father’s old tool chest, the drawer tops all dented from Frank drumming wrenches on them as a child. “Since I know how to do the work, why not find an old machine, like this lathe, and fix it up? It’ll last. They were built to last.”
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On the edge of the Freetown near downtown Lafayette, Kincel and his assistant work out of a two-room shop with his lathe, planer and band saw, a custom-designed sander, various other machinery, and loads and loads of hickory, the same wood used for axe handles and hammers. Kincel sources his from rural Alabama. Working in instrument repair shops for years, Kincel was known as “The Fixer.” Coworkers would drop broken drums and instruments on his desk without a word, challenging Kincel to both diagnose the problem and fix it in the same day — and he would. “At some point I realized I could take my knowledge of trade skills and my love for the drums and marry the two,” he says. La BackBeat was born. Seven years ago, he began immersing himself in the study and trial-and-error of stickmaking, from the thinner jazz-oriented varieties to thicker models ready for hard rock. “I’ve learned that I can do things I’d never thought I could learn how to do,” Kincel says. “The books for one thing. This business is very tight. Managing money is essential.” Now 51, Kincel can crank out more than 400 drumsticks per day, but mostly he just enjoys knowing that musicians are happy with the quality and durability of his sticks. “What we are doing here is influencing the industry; the major manufacturers are watching and copying some things I do,” he says. “On certain processes I’ve had to become very secretive.” Drummers in Japan, the Netherlands and the UK are watching too, and have bought from him. Some post videos on social media and give a shout-out to La BackBeat which gives Kincel the biggest grin. “I’m more famous now than when I was a drummer.”n
→ FOR MORE INFORMATION VISITLABACKBEAT.COM
If you could get your sticks in the hands of any drummer, who would it be? Any of the major artists — I’d love that. But I’d want them to play with these sticks because they want to be part of the family. I want my craftsmanship and consistency to stand out for itself, and not push them on anybody or have a big endorsement do that. With the pandemic hitting musicians and music venues hard, do you see any solutions? Whether it’s grants, unemployment, or low-interest loans, there should be some form of assistance. Most artists and musicians already ran pretty lean in the past and were totally unprepared for a pandemic. Who would’ve thought this would happen? You blend multiple things that Acadiana likes to celebrate: nature, craft, entrepreneurship and, of course, music. You’re exemplary of your region in that way. I do feel very grateful to be able to pursue this and touch the world all the way from Lafayette. I have made some trade-offs in life to be able to pursue my musical endeavors, but I feel extremely thankful that I have been able to continue that pursuit.
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ART
The Big Picture Ruston artist Christiane Drieling explores contemporary issues via imagery borrowed from German fairytales BY JOHN R. KEMP
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rtist Christiane Drieling is on an artistic and life-searching journey that has taken her from the dark childhood fairytales of her native Northwest Germany to North Louisiana and the social and spiritual issues facing Americans and the world today. Drieling, who lives in Ruston with her husband Markus and two American-born children Jacob and Mona, explores everyday experiences and hard-hitting
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(above, left) “Change the Story” (right) “Dealing With the Past” (facing page, top) “Mother” (bottom) “Blue Note”
contemporary issues such as those found in her new “Earth” series that show “how we treat this planet, ourselves and each other.” With complex layers of built up bits of paper and images cut from magazines and books often sewn together with strands of thread, her seemingly whimsical images draw viewers into a similarly complex and multi-layered world. “There is so much pain in the world caused by social injustice,” says Drieling, who has a master’s degree in sociology, psychology and German literature from Kiel University in Germany. “The images I create in response to these matters often point to a certain critical or outrageous social situation while offering simple solutions that appear to be romantic, naïve, or utopian, thus surreal. When I think about it, I see my work as messages in bottles; little notes asking for help thrown into the ocean. Some may be found, some may be read, some may be understood, some may be answered. The handwriting may be unclear but the bottle still makes a good vase.” Drieling and her physicist husband moved to the United States from Germany in 2001 when he accepted a post-doctoral research position at the Fermi particle accelerator lab near Chicago. After they arrived there, she tried to find a job editing or writing for magazines, work she had done in Germany. Unsuccessful, she turned to her childhood dream of being a professional artist. In art, she found her voice. Although they enjoyed Chicago, they planned to return to Germany after Markus completed his fellowship. Then in 2007 he accepted a teaching post at Louisiana Tech in Ruston. There, they found a new home. “For the longest time,” she says, “I didn’t feel at home anywhere, not in the U.S. and not in Germany. I always
→ FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT CHRISTIANEDRIELING.COM
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 17
felt in transition, like being on a plane that has started but hasn’t planned its landing. So, for the time being, we are not planning to move anywhere else.” Drieling is a mostly self-taught painter, sculptor and multimedia collage artist who often draws inspiration from German fairytales she heard as a child. They told stories of cruel situations that ended with simple, romantic solutions. “Fairytales never offer solutions in a way that people in power come to their senses and actively give up their abusive and unjust ways,” she says. “But those stories usually have happy endings nonetheless, suggesting that all suffering will end sooner or later, let’s just be patient. I like to challenge such notions by showing parallels between outrageous current social and political situations on one side and the romanticized handling of comparable matters in commonly known stories like fairytales on the other side.” Born and raised in post-World War II West Germany, Drieling brings a special sensitivity to her view of world issues, a sensitivity she describes as tempered by an “inheritance of trauma, guilt, shame and fear.” “German history is not history,” she says. “It’s very alive and omnipresent. It’s an essential part of my German experience. Learning about German history at school, watching movies and documentations about it, listening to the many painful stories that my parents and grandparents kept telling — or hiding. This all made me sensitive to all forms of abuse of power and violation of human rights. These issues are constantly on my mind and it is only natural that I have to work them into my images.” Drieling understands some viewers find her oftencryptic imagery to be “sweet and funny” without seeing “the larger story.” But that’s fine with her because art, she says, “is subjective and ever changing, it only means what it means to the viewer.” Whether or not viewers understand the “larger story,” her work has found an audience. In a growing list of honors, the Masur Museum of Art in Monroe recently featured her in a one-artist show, and in 2019 the North Central Louisiana Arts Council named her “Artist of the Year.” “It certainly makes me happy and proud to see people respond to my work with joy and curiosity,” she says. “For me, however, being successful has mainly to do with what I expect from myself, if I can meet my own expectations or even exceed them. I wanted to find my path, and I did.” n
Exhibits CAJUN
“Black Nature: Letitia Huckaby.” Photographer Letitia Huckaby’s images of the African-American experience in the Southern landscape, through July 10. Paul and Lulu Hilliard University Art Museum, Lafayette. hilliardmuseum.org CENTRAL
“She Persisted.” Celebrates Louisiana women artists in honor of 100th anniversary of 19th Amendment, through June 26. Alexandria Museum of Art. themuseum.org PLANTATION
“The Art of Seating: Two Hundred Years of American Design.” Features 40 historic chairs from mid-1800s to works from today’s studio movement, through June 6. LSU Museum of Art, Baton Rouge. lsumoa.org NOLA
“Built: Sculpture from the Collection.” Exhibit demonstrates how Southern artists use various forms and media to explore the power of sculptural form, through July 25. Ogden Museum of Southern Art. ogdenmuseum.org NORTH
“Clyde Connell and Pat Sewell.” Artwork by acclaimed North Louisiana artists Clyde Connell and Pat Sewell, through December 2021. Louisiana State Exhibit Museum, Shreveport. laexhibitmuseum.org
PHOTO BY JENN KILPATRICK
→ EDITOR’S NOTE: DUE TO COVID-19 PHASING, CALL AHEAD TO CONFIRM IN-PERSON EXHIBIT VISITS
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 19
HO ME
From Memory Russ Sonnier restores a midcentury modern house first encountered during his childhood BY LEE CUTRONE PHOTOS BY SARA ESSEX BRADLEY
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uss Sonnier grew up in a midcentury modern house in Lafayette. But the midcentury modern that really grabbed Sonnier’s attention belonged to family friends who lived in the Bendel Gardens subdivision named after world famous Lafayette native, designer and specialty department store owner Henri Bendel. Nearly 50 years after first visiting the house as an 11-year-old, Sonnier purchased the house and many of its furnishings, — which remained virtually unchanged — and restored them with respect for their original style. Sonnier’s life seems fatefully connected to both the house and its neighborhood. As a boy, he was introduced to the house when his brother began dating (and married) one of the three daughters of the family who owned it. Sonnier’s grandmother’s husband and his cousin’s husband were two of the three men who developed Bendel Gardens. The Sonniers refreshed and repurposed Bendel Gardens’ original entry gates for their own home. Also, like Henri Bendel, Sonnier would grow up in Lafayette, move to New York City, make a name for himself with a business that catered to the elite (he and a business partner started, ran and later sold the well-known catering company Sonnier & Castle), and have homes in both the North East and Lafayette. When Sonnier learned that his sister-in law and her siblings were selling the property, he bought it long-distance and was delighted to find that it was just as he remembered it.
(Left) A Saarinen table and Bertoia chairs by Knoll are used in the breakfast area beneath an original pendant fixture found in the attic. (Above) The guest bedroom contains furniture original to the house and pieces Sonnier grew up with. Rug, Hashtag Home.
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In the living room, chairs from the original owners were recovered with a yellow velvet by Nassimi. The dining room’s textured cork and foil wallpaper is by Innovations; Jonathan Adler light fixture, cow hide rug by AllModern.
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HO ME
(Left) The original bar required only a few touch-ups. Floor lamp from CB2. (Below left) Vintage sofas (one from original owners, one from Sonnier’s mother) in the sunken den were recovered with a fabric by Modern 5. (Below right) The kitchen’s cabinets and roll-out prep table are both original.
“It was like walking back into the same time period as when they built it,” he says. “The furniture was like new. I was intrigued and amazed by it.” Lafayette restaurateurs Joseph and Marie DiGiorgio worked with architect Al Sutton to design and build the house in the late 1950s and the house belonged to the family until Marie’s death. Shortly after acquiring the house in 2018, Sonnier hired Stephen Ortego of SO Studio Architecture to bring back its original luster. “When Russ first reached out to us, we were blown away,” says Ortego, who specializes in both innovative modern design and historic restoration, the common thread being buildings that are authentic to their timeframe. “It was almost like walking into a museum.” Structurally, the house was in need of work. The roof was visibly sagging and sixty-plus years of wear had left their mark on the wood paneling, uninsulated windows, wallpaper and a now-defunct intercom system. The roof was fortified with new trusses and worn shag carpeting was removed and replaced with wooden floors. Rather than supplant classic modernist features — terrazzo floors, stone fireplace, clerestory windows, sunken living room, paneling and tile — with inferior imitations however, they had everything from floors to brass pulls cleaned, refinished and repaired.
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A mint-condition built-in bar worthy of the Rat Pack required only a few touch-ups and a new baseboard. “The quality of the craftsmanship is something you just can’t find very easily today,” says Ortego. Sonnier was able to buy much of the DiGiorgios’ original furnishings, which he mixed with midcentury pieces from his mother and original light fixtures found stored in the attic. Upholstery and drapery were refurbished using vivid shades of yellow and aqua, the latter inspired by the 1950s color once used for the kitchen appliances and outdoor shutters. New additions, including a textured cork and foil wallpaper, a Jonathan Adler pendant fixture, and a Saarinen table and Bertoia chairs were chosen for their period resonance, while the landscaping by Lue Svendson of Svendson Studios was designed according to the characteristically striated quality of the architecture. “It’s so much harder to restore than to renovate,” says Sonnier, a talented chef who spent many hours searching for pink tiles to match the originals in one of the three full baths. “But we did a great job. We worked with what we had and got it to be as close as possible to the way it was.” n
At a Glance ARCHITECT
Original: Al Sutton; Restoration: Stephen Ortego, SO Studio. INTERIOR DESIGN
André Carr, SO Studio. SQUARE FOOTAGE
3,400
OUTSTANDING FEATURES
Sunken living room, built-in bar, original layout and footprint, terrazzo floors, stone fireplace, original kitchen cabinets, rollout prep table and chopping board that slides out next to the cooktop, original 4x4 bathroom tiles.
By Stanley Dry Photo and Styling by Eugenia Uhl
For most of us, weekday breakfast is a rushed affair where time is of the essence and convenience rules. Weekends and vacation days give us the opportunity to relax and cook our favorite dishes. These recipes are for those times when we have the leisure to indulge. They are not quick to prepare, but neither are they difficult, and some of them can be prepped ahead of time.
Daybreak
Buttermilk Biscuits, Sausage and Country Gravy A favorite dish that is enjoyed all across the South. In Louisiana, it is more common in the northern part of the state than in Cajun and Creole country.
TIP If you don’t have buttermilk on hand, substitute equal parts plain yogurt and milk.
Fried Apricot Pies Fried pies can be made with either pie dough or biscuit dough. Each has its adherents. Pies made with pie dough have greater keeping qualities, while those made with biscuit dough are more tender; like biscuits, they should be eaten in short order. This recipe uses biscuit dough.
TIP Clarified butter is butter that has been melted and separated from its water and milk solids so that it can be used for frying or sautéing without burning.
There are two types of southern fried chicken — pan-fried and deep-fried. I prefer the former, but I’ve never been able to master the technique. Out of frustration, I developed this recipe, which approximates our grandmothers’ old-fashioned, pan-fried chicken. It’s not the genuine article, but it’s closer than deepfried chicken.
Fried Chicken and Waffles
TIP Separating the eggs and beating the whites produces extremely light and crisp waffles.
TIP Putting the cooked pain perdu into a hot oven for five or ten minutes actually improves it, as the bread puffs up.
Pain Perdu with Boudin and Cane Syrup Boudin that is taken out of the casing, formed into patties and broiled acquires a delicious crust. It is particularly delicious when served with pain perdu and cane syrup.
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TIP Cooked sweet potatoes can be stringy, so it’s best to cut the raw potatoes into small pieces before boiling.
Sweet Potato Bread Here is one breakfast item that should be baked a day or two in advance. If desired, it can be toasted and buttered, but it is delicious simply sliced.
Buttermilk Biscuits, Sausage and Country Gravy FOR BISCUITS
2 cups low-gluten, self-rising flour, such as White Lily 3 tablespoons chilled butter 2 tablespoons chilled lard or shortening ²⁄3 cup buttermilk Preheat oven to 450 F. Place flour in mixing bowl; cut butter into small pieces and add to bowl, along with lard or shortening. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut fats into flour until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Add buttermilk and mix with a fork just until dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, knead a few times and roll out dough to a thickness of ½ inch. Using a floured 3-inch cutter, cut out biscuits and place on a heavy, ungreased baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven until tops are lightly browned, about 10-12 minutes. Makes 6-8 biscuits. FOR SAUSAGE AND GRAVY
1 pound pork sausage ¼ cup pan drippings vegetable oil, if needed ¼ cup all-purpose flour 2-2½ cups milk coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper While biscuits are baking, form sausage into 8 patties and place in cold skillet. Turn heat to medium and cook until sausages are well browned on one side. Turn sausages and cook until browned on the other side. Remove sausages and drain on paper towels. Keep sausages warm while making gravy. Measure pan drippings and add vegetable oil, if needed, to yield ¼ cup. Return to skillet and sprinkle with flour. Stir or whisk to incorporate flour and cook until lightly browned, scraping up any brown bits that have adhered to the pan. Add 2 cups milk and stir or whisk to incorporate. Cook until gravy is thickened, while stirring, adding additional milk, if necessary. Season to taste with salt and pepper. TO SERVE
Split biscuits and place 2 halves on each serving plate. Place sausages on biscuits and cover with country gravy. Makes 4 servings, with additional biscuits as lagniappe.
counter with a generous amount of flour. Turn dough out onto floured surface and knead a few times with floured hands. Dough should be a little stiffer than for biscuits. Roll dough out to a thickness of about ⅛ inch, sprinkling dough with additional flour, as needed, to prevent sticking. Using a floured 3½- or 4-inch biscuit cutter, cut rounds of dough. Piece together remaining dough, roll out and cut more rounds. You should have 12 or more rounds of dough. To assemble: Line a sheet pan or cookie sheet with wax paper and sprinkle with flour. Using a small spoon, place a mound of apricot jam in the center of a round of dough. Moisten the bottom edge of dough with water, fold dough over to make a half-moon shape, and crimp to seal with your fingers. Transfer to floured wax paper. Repeat with remaining rounds of dough. To cook: Add clarified butter (or equal parts whole butter and vegetable oil) to a depth of about ¼-inch in a skillet and heat. When fat is sizzling, slide pies into skillet, being careful not to overcrowd. Fry on one side until browned, turn with a spatula, and brown the other side. Transfer to a tray lined with paper towels to drain. Repeat, adding more clarified butter (or butter and oil) to skillet, as needed, until all the pies are cooked. Arrange pies on a platter. Put powdered sugar in a fine mesh strainer or sifter and generously coat the pies. Makes 12 or more pies.
Chicken and Waffles FOR THE CHICKEN
4 pieces chicken ½ teaspoon coarse salt ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon hot sauce 1 cup all-purpose flour cooking oil Combine buttermilk, salt, peppers and hot sauce in a bowl or pan. Add chicken, turn to coat and marinate for a few hours or overnight, turning chicken occasionally. Preheat oil in deep fryer or pot to 375 F. Preheat oven to 350 F. Remove chicken from marinade, dredge in flour, and fry until golden brown, about 5-8 minutes. Drain on paper towels, then place chicken on a rack set on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until dark brown and cooked through, about 25 minutes. Keep chicken warm in a 175-degree oven while making waffles. FOR THE WAFFLES
Fried Apricot Pies 2 cups low-gluten, self-rising flour, such as White Lily 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 3 tablespoons chilled butter 2 tablespoons chilled lard or shortening ½ cup plus 1-2 tablespoons milk apricot jam clarified butter (or equal parts whole butter and vegetable oil) powdered sugar Combine flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. Cut butter into small pieces and add to bowl, along with lard or shortening. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut fats into flour until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Add milk and combine quickly with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle
1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon sugar ⅛ teaspoon salt 2 large eggs, separated 1 cup whole milk 2 tablespoons melted butter Preheat waffle iron. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt; whisk to combine. Mix egg yolks with milk and stir into dry ingredients. Add melted butter and stir to combine. Beat egg whites until stiff. Fold half of whipped egg whites into batter, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Ladle a fourth of the batter onto hot waffle iron and bake until brown and crisp. Keep waffles warm on a rack set on a rimmed baking sheet in oven until all are ready. Makes 4 waffles.
Pain Perdu with Boudin and Cane Syrup FOR BOUDIN
1 pound boudin Preheat broiler. Preheat oven to 225 F. Slit boudin casing, remove boudin and discard casing. Form boudin into 4 patties. Place patties on a lightly greased broiler pan and broil boudin until browned, about 6-8 minutes, depending on broiler. Place in preheated oven to keep warm. FOR PAIN PERDU
2 eggs 1 cup milk ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons butter, plus additional, as needed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus additional, as needed 12 slices French bread, about ½-inch thick cane syrup In a wide, shallow bowl, beat eggs well, then add milk, vanilla, nutmeg and sugar and beat to combine. Heat butter and oil in large skillet on medium heat. Working in batches, dip bread in egg mixture, turn to saturate both sides, and fry until nicely browned on one side. Turn and fry on the other side. Transfer to a a rack set on a rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in preheated oven. Repeat with additional bread, adding more butter and oil to skillet, as needed. Serve with cane syrup and boudin. Makes 4 servings.
Sweet Potato Bread 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup whole wheat flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ginger ¼ teaspoon nutmeg 1 cup peeled, boiled and mashed sweet potatoes ¼ cup buttermilk (more if needed) ¼ pound butter, softened 1½ cups light brown sugar 3 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter and flour a large loaf pan. In a mixing bowl, combine flour, soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg, whisk to combine and set aside. In a separate container, combine mashed sweet potatoes and buttermilk and set aside. In a mixing bowl, beat butter and sugar until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, and vanilla and beat until smooth. Alternately add dry ingredients and sweet potato mixture until well combined. Do not overbeat. If mixture is too dry, add additional buttermilk. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until a tester comes out clean, about 1 hour. Place pan on rack and cool for 15 minutes, then turn out loaf onto rack to finish cooling. Makes 1 loaf.
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Beach Please By Cheré Coen
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Making a great escape to Gulf Shores and Orange Beach
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TOP LAKE SHELBY BOARDWALK, PART OF THE HUGH S BRANYON BACKCOUNTRY TRAIL COMPLEX BOTTOM, LEFT KANGAROO ENCOUNTERS OPEN DAILY AT THE ALABAMA GULF COAST ZOO. MASKS ARE REQUIRED DURING ENCOUNTER. RIGHT THE GRAND HOTEL GOLF RESORT & SPA
H
urricane Sally did a number on Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, flooding properties and halting businesses already impacted by COVID-19 and its resulting loss of tourism dollars. But, the Coast rebounds. Mirroring the spring resurgence of natural life to the Gulf Coast, the Alabama region is bouncing back with new energy, said Kay Maghan, public relations manager of Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism. Almost all restaurants have reopened, Maghan said, and several new dining options have surfaced, including OSO with its casual coastal cuisine and awesome views of Gulf sunsets and Mile Marker 158 Dockside at The Wharf, offering water views from inside the Springhill Suites Hotel, both in Orange Beach. Many rental properties briefly went offline after the storm, Maghan explained, to both recover and take the opportunity to perform renovations. Perdido Beach Resort, for instance, was renovating its lobby when Hurricane Sally hit, then received wind and water damage. It will be offering an improved look when it reopens, she said. Down Fort Morgan Road, on the peninsula stretching west from the hubbub of Gulf Shores, The Beach Club sustained hurricane damage to its four condo buildings. Two will be open this month or early April, after renovations are complete, while the other two will open by June. Another hurricane — Ivan in 2004 — took a bite out of The Lodge at Gulf State Park, located right on the beach in Gulf Shores. Funds from the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill were used to rebuild the property with a focus on sustainability. Not only is the lodge eco-friendly with its construction designed to reduce energy consumption, along with many other
36 LOUISIANA LIFE MARCH/APRIL 2021
sustainable efforts, but its location, dune restoration and native plant landscaping helped take the brunt of nature’s fury this past summer. “The [Lodge at Gulf State Park] came out like a champ,” Maghan said of surviving Hurricane Sally. “It’s the first fortified commercial hotel in the world, as far as we know, and it did what it was supposed to do.” In addition to Gulf Shores and Orange Beach being open for business, there are many new attractions to enjoy this spring and summer. Here are a few. Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo The Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo moved four miles inland, tripled in size with room to expand and opened its new facility in 2020. “It’s a completely different experience,” Maghan said. “They still maintain an approach of being designed in a way to allow people to be close to the animals but not right on them.” The Zoo’s popular “Animal Encounters” with giraffes, kangaroos and sloths allows visitors of all ages to greet and feed the animals within a safe environment. New to the Zoo is the Safari Club Gulf Shores, the first certified “green restaurant” in Alabama as designated by the Green Restaurant Association. Safari Club serves up seafood, small plates, handmade artisan wood-fired pizzas and vegan and vegetarian options. The restaurant is located near the gift shop, so visitors may access the restaurant without having to enter the zoo. Bike Gulf State Park Grab a free bike rental at several spots in Gulf State Park and enjoy the 28 miles of paved trails or boardwalks. The terrain changes throughout the park, from
wetlands with alligators and bird species to the seven trails of the Hugh S. Branyon Backcountry Trail complex. The park also contains a nature center, lagoons, geocaching and beach access and offers special events throughout the year. To pick up a free bike rental within the park, download the Bloom Bike Share App and create an account. Scan the QR code on the bicycle to unlock it from the bike station, then return the bike and scan to lock. “Make sure your lock engages or you’ll get charged,” Maghan advised. Only those 16 and older can use the park’s bikes, and there’s a time limit for free usage, but bike rental companies are available in the twin cities. For more information, visit gulfshores. com/blog/bike-sharing-gulf-state-park. Social Distancing Boat Rides Being careful during COVID doesn’t have to mean staying off the water. Anonyme Cruises offers small groups a chance to sightsee along the back bay in a luxury Duffy electric boat. Visitors pack their own beverages and snacks and Captain DD Russo provides a cooler with ice for a two-hour cruise. Because the boat’s electric, there are no gas fumes, no loud motor noises. Anonyme can be the perfect vehicle for marriage send-offs, anniversaries or wedding proposals. Visit anonymecruises.com for more information. For something a bit more lively, Cruisin’ Tikis travels throughout the waters visiting islands, watching sunsets or just moving folks around while imbibing drinks of their choice. It’s a literal tiki bar on water, accommodating six people who bring their own booze. And yes, the bar stools may be spaced apart to ensure social distancing.
PHOTOS COURTESY: GULFSHORES.COM; ALABAMA GULF SHORES ZOO; ANCHOR BAR AND GRILL; THE GRAND HOTEL GOLF RESORT AND SPA
LOUISIANALIFE.COM 37
Open-Air Dining Several dining options allow visitors to relish the Gulf breezes and sunshine while still maintaining a fair distance from other diners. The Anchor Bar and Grill, helmed by Louisiana Chef Jonathan Kastner, serves up casual food and fun cocktails with outdoor seating overlooking Hudson Marina in Orange Beach. Enjoy ramen bowls (including a crawfish boil-inspired dish), pork belly nachos or shrimp bahn mi while watching the sun set over Gulf waters. Big Beach Brewing Co. in Gulf Shores offers an open-air taproom where visitors can listen to live music, drink craft brews and select wines and get toasty at the fireplace on chilly evenings. There’s no kitchen at Big Beach, but occasionally food trucks park outside, plus visitors may bring their own food or have it delivered. Beach Moms There are many reasons to employ the Beach Moms on a visit to the Alabama coast. The concierge service — your “Beach Mom” — brings groceries and non-alcoholic beverages from the store to the beach rentals, taking the hassle of shopping — particularly during the hectic spring break peaks — out of a relaxing vacation. Having someone else do your shopping also eliminates having to face crowds, for those who wish to maintain social distancing. Pick a Beach Moms package and sign up and the fridge will be full upon arrival. TOP BOARDWALK Beach Moms SURROUNDED BY SHRUBS IN also makes dinner GULF SHORES, reservations, books ALABAMA excursions, arranges BOTTOM ANCHOR for beach umbrellas BAR AND GRILL’S CRAWFISH and plans family photo shoots. For informa- BOIL-INSPIRED RAMEN tion on their services, visit thebeachmoms.net. RIGHT AERIAL
Navy Cove Oysters VIEWS AND SEASCAPES OF Oysters are grown ORANGE BEACH, throughout Alabama ALABAMA waters, and one local oyster farm now gives tours. Navy Cove Oysters near the western end of Fort Morgan Road in Gulf Shores offers walking tours at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Mondays, showcasing how oysters are grown in Mobile Bay using sustainable aquaculture practices. Reservations are required; call 225-933-1005 or visit navycoveoysters.com/tour-navy-cove. These succulent oysters fresh from the water may also be purchased to bring home. Art and Golf International artist and Alabama resident Nall creates large multimedia works of art,
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many of which are on display at The Grand Hotel Golf Resort & Spa in Point Clear, north of Gulf Shores on Mobile Bay. The hotel recently added a Nall Gallery on the second floor of the main building, as well as a Nall Suite for guests. The resort will also offer a BYOC (Bring Your Own Clubs) Golf Package this spring, featuring a deluxe resort guest room for one
night and a round of golf for two guests or two rounds for one starting at $369. For more information on The Grand Hotel, visit grand1847.com. To learn more about Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, to verify what’s open and available and to find a list of the region’s various accommodations, visit gulfshores.com. n
S PONS ORED
Traveling Around Louisiana
LOUISIANA’S GREAT OUTDOORS call to residents and visitors alike in the beautiful spring months, and there’s plenty to do under the sun this season. Whether you’re taking in the fresh air from a pristine and challenging golf course, a gleaming freshwater lake, or a hiking trail along a cypress bayou, you’re sure to enjoy the variety of offerings unique to each area of the state. Bass fishing attracts anglers to the large lakes of North Louisiana while coastal fishing brings adventurers down to Cajun Country. Meanwhile, outdoor festivals, art markets, and farmer’s markets bring openair fun to downtowns, parks, and outdoor complexes from West Baton Rouge Parish north to Lincoln Parish. Grab your favorite shades and sun hat, and head outside while the getting’s good. The following attractions and parish offerings are sure to give you and your family a reason to smile this spring.
Moments of splendor define every visit to Cypress Bend Resort, from sunrises over the shimmering lake to birdies on its lush championship golf course or family stories around a glowing fire. Located on Toledo Bend Lake just 70 miles south of Shreveport, Cypress Bend Resort promises unforgettable memories for friends and families seeking a beautiful and tranquil respite. Cypress Bend offers the perfect locale for vacations, meetings, conventions, or weddings with its 95 guest rooms (including 14 two-bedroom golf suites). The resort also boasts a Spa at Cypress Bend, 600 acres of gardens and forests, 11,000 square feet of state-of-the-art conference facilities, a nationally recognized 18-hole golf course, and the top bass fishing lake in the country according to BassMasters. Crisp, country air, serene views, and southern hospitality all combine to transform and elevate your experience—whether a meeting or golf game—into a communion with nature. The resort is conveniently located for residents of both Louisiana and East Texas. Discover the magic of Cypress Bend Resort with your loved ones. For reservations and information, visit CypressBend.com or call 318-590-1500. 42 LOUISIANA LIFE MARCH/APRIL 2021
Cypress Bend Resort
Jefferson Parish welcomes visitors to enjoy the bounteous and beautiful great outdoors of Louisiana just minutes from New Orleans. Home to Barataria Preserve of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and two state parks (Grand Isle and Bayou Segnette), Jefferson Parish connects nature lovers with beautiful hiking trails, birding trails, fishing piers, and boating opportunities. It also connects visitors with the culture of the people who settled the delta and their relationship to its unique ecosystem. Combine a few hours at the Lafitte Barataria Museum with an unforgettable bayou adventure on the Total Cajun Experience swamp tour in Jean Lafitte. Anglers love Jefferson Parish for its plentiful, year-round access to freshwater and saltwater fish. Meanwhile, the allure of the beach awaits visitors to Grand Isle, where seven miles of barrier island hold all the wonders of the Louisiana outdoors. For more outdoors adventures, additional things to do in Jefferson Parish, and a free visitors guide, go to visitjeffersonparish.com or call 877-572-7474. Plan a weekend trip this spring to Ruston and Lincoln Parish and experience all this thriving college town has to offer. Ruston’s charming and walkable downtown district offers unique shopping, local flavors, public art, a bustling farmers market, and more fun attractions that are perfect for a day trip. Looking for something a little more adventurous? Head to Lincoln Parish Park and enjoy world-class bike trails, pavilions, primitive and RV campsites, and a pristine lake surrounded by a walking path.
The area also offers several family-friendly attractions and activities, making it an ideal destination for a Louisiana staycation. Families can enjoy local museums, a trampoline park, horseback riding, seasonal events, and other fun interactive experiences. For a memorable getaway, make yourself at home in Ruston and Lincoln Parish. For more information on area attractions and accommodations, visit experienceruston.com or call 800-392-9032 for a free visitors guide. Enjoy some excitement in the great outdoors with the 17th Annual Kite Fest Louisianè, held May 22-23, 2021, in West Baton Rouge Parish. Kites of all sizes and shapes will fill the skies at the West Baton Rouge Soccer Complex in Port Allen, Louisiana, located just off I-10 west of Baton Rouge (Exit #151 at 3383 Rosedale Road). The Go Big or Go Home Kite Team will display enormous kites in the sky while the Austin End of the Line flying teams will perform intricate ballets in the sky using twoline kites. The Northeast Rev Riders will bring more thrills with their four-line kites. These groups will be performing throughout the festival, which also features exciting BOL races, candy drops, great food, and music. Kite Fest Louisianè will be open to the public at no charge from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Saturday, May 22, with a special fireworks display at dusk. Sunday hours are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more information, visit westbatonrouge.net.
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ASPAR AGUS AND SUGAR SNAP FRITTATA 1 cup sugar snap peas 8 spears thin asparagus 6 large eggs ¼ teaspoon coarse salt freshly ground black pepper ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon butter PUT a medium-sized
sauce pan of salted water on to boil and preheat oven to 350 F. Remove strings from sugar snaps and break or cut off the woody ends of the asparagus. Blanch the sugar snaps in boiling water for one minute, then remove from pot, place in strainer or colander and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Blanch the asparagus spears for one minute also, then remove from pot, place in strainer or colander and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Cut peas and asparagus into ½-inch pieces. B R E A K eggs into mixing
Put an Egg On It This time of year, the humble egg reigns supreme BY STANLEY DRY PHOTOS AND STYLING BY EUGENIA UHL
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T
ry to imagine what cooking, baking and eating would be like without eggs. Well, you can try, but unless you are a vegan or allergic, you can’t really fathom it — eggs are so essential in the kitchen. They are an important part of our diet year round, but we tend to take them for granted and hardly give them a second thought. Easter is the one time when the egg gets its due. On this spring day, the egg ascends to the throne as a celebratory food, a symbol of rebirth, renewal, new beginnings — a symbol of life itself, just as spring heralds the end of an austere winter and the optimistic start of a new cycle. Eggs have been — and still are — of supreme importance for people living in hard times, particularly those
bowl and whisk. Season with salt and pepper. Add Parmesan, peas and asparagus to eggs. Melt butter in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet over medium heat. When butter foams, add egg mixture, transfer to preheated oven and bake until puffy and set around the edge of the skillet, about 8-10 minutes. Place skillet under broiler for a minute to brown the top. Makes 4 servings.
in rural areas who keep chickens and rely on eggs as a source of cheap protein and as a way of extending scarce foodstuffs. In “Stir the Pot: The History of Cajun Cuisine,” the authors note that, “From the late 18th century to the post-World War II era, eggs constituted the most common source of protein in the Louisiana Acadian diet.” You don’t often come across the practice in contemporary cookbooks, but hard boiled eggs were once routinely added to chicken gumbos. Since chickens were valuable and only slaughtered and cooked when no longer producing eggs, adding eggs to the gumbo helped to feed a large family. One acquaintance recalls that his mother even boiled the eggs in the gumbo to save fuel. This month’s recipes feature eggs in various preparations. Deviled eggs are almost universally loved, and everyone has their favorite recipe. Mine are more assertive than most, amped up with anchovies, capers and cayenne. In this asparagus and eggs recipe, the former is roasted and served with shaved Parmesan, plus a mollet egg — or, an egg boiled in the shell until the white is firm, but the yolk is still runny. Serve with crusty bread so you can enjoy every bit of the yolk. Dessert custards rank high on many people’s list of favorites, but savory custards are less well known. There’s no reason that should be so. Try this simple recipe for a green pea and lettuce custard, and I think you might be a convert. A frittata is a flat Italian omelet that can be made with almost any reasonable combination of ingredients. This one contains sugar snap peas, asparagus and Parmesan. Many recipes call for flipping the frittata after it has cooked on one side, but running it under the broiler is simpler. n
DEVILED EGGS WITH ANCHOVIES AND C APERS 4 eggs, at room temperature 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons mayonnaise ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard 4 anchovy filets, chopped 1 teaspoon capers, chopped freshly ground black pepper chopped chives cayenne pepper B R ING a pot of water to a boil. Using
a slotted spoon, lower each egg into the water. Boil for 12 minutes. Remove from heat, drain, shake pot to crack eggshells and place under running cold water. When cool, shell eggs under running water. CUT each egg in half lengthwise,
carefully remove the yolk and place in a bowl. Mash yolks with a fork. Add mayonnaise, mustard, chopped anchovies and capers and mix well. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper. FILL each white with the mixture.
Garnish with chopped chives and a dash of cayenne. Makes 4 servings.
ROASTED ASPAR AGUS WITH MOLLET EGGS AND SHAVED PARMESAN 1 pound medium asparagus spears 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 eggs, at room temperature coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper shaved Parmesan slices of crusty bread PR EHE AT oven to 400 F. Trim
asparagus. Place asparagus on a sheet pan, add olive oil and roll asparagus to coat. Roast until asparagus is tender, but still firm, about 20 minutes. B R ING a pot of water to a boil.
Using a slotted spoon, carefully add eggs to water. Boil for 5 minutes, drain water from pan and place under running cold water. Shell eggs under running water. DI V IDE asparagus spears among
4 plates. Place an egg on each plate and cut or break egg to expose the runny yolk. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with shaved Parmesan. Serve with slices of crusty bread. Makes 4 servings.
GREEN PE A AND LETTUCE CUSTARD 1 teaspoon butter ½ cup chopped romaine lettuce ¾ cup frozen green peas 4 large eggs 2 cups whole milk ½ teaspoon coarse salt PR EHE AT oven to 350 degrees. Butter
4 10-ounce ramekins and place in a baking pan.
TIP When recipes specify room temperature eggs and yours are in the fridge, just soak them in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes
CUT away the center rib of romaine
leaves. Chop lettuce to yield ½ cup. Divide chopped lettuce among the ramekins. Divide peas among the ramekins. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs, then add milk and salt and mix. Pour egg mixture into ramekins. Place baking pan holding ramekins on center rack of oven and add enough water to the pan to come halfway up the ramekins. Bake until custard is set, about 45 minutes. Makes 4 servings.
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T RAVELE R
Rustic Lite Everything you need to know about Louisiana State Parks’ new glamping accommodations BY CHERÉ COEN
46 LOUISIANA LIFE MARCH/APRIL 2021
T
here’s not much glamour when it comes to pitching a tent, cooking a meal over an open fire and sleeping on the cold, hard ground. But “glamping” hopes to change all that. The trend that emerged in primitive camping over the past several years forgoes the less savory aspects of the great outdoors, featuring instead a platform on which a safari-style tent is spread. Inside a glamping tent one will find everything from an air mattress and rustic furniture to elegant bedding beneath chandeliers, mini kitchens and full bathrooms.
The new glamping options will likely be particularly appealing to those who don’t want the hassle of pitching a tent or for a family introducing their children to nature, but with more conveniences.
The new glamping options at eight Louisiana state parks lean toward the rustic, allowing visitors to become more attuned with nature than inside a park cabin, but not so close as to be uncomfortable. The tents cover a large wooden platform and inside are comfortable queen mattresses, wooden benches and shelves and propane heaters. Zippered flaps seal up the tent, while also allowing opportunities to open spaces in all four cloth walls for ventilation. In the case of inclement weather, the oversized, heavy-duty tent material keeps visitors warm and dry.
While Louisiana’s state park glamping experiences may not be true to the name, it offers those who shun more primitive camping a chance to try something new, said Rebecca Rundell, public information office at the Louisiana Office of State Parks. She sees the new glamping options as particularly appealing to those who don’t want the hassle of pitching a tent or for a family introducing their children to nature, but with more conveniences. Christina Cooper, vice president of communications, marketing and public relations for St. Tammany Parish Tourist Commission, wanted to try out the new glamping options at Fontainebleau State Park in Mandeville with her husband and seven-year-old daughter. “I didn’t have any idea what to expect,” she said. Fontainebleau offers several sites with easy access, though visitors must haul in equipment after parking in designated parking spots. Four additional glamping sites are located along a trail with medium difficulty access, and one site must be accessed by boat, located on a strip of land next to Lake Pontchartrain. “That one is really special,” Rundell said of the island glamping tent. “It’s really worth it but it’s hard to get to, especially if you’re by yourself.” Cooper and family chose a glamping tent at Campsite D near the park’s second entrance, one that only required a short walk. “The other glamping sites near us were spread out, so you didn’t feel like you’re right on top of anyone,” she said. The family of three cooked meals over a fire pit with a grill, hiked through the park and went canoeing down Cane Bayou. They spotted a bald eagle, deer, a possum they nicknamed Harold and a great blue heron with a bass in his mouth. At Lake Claiborne State Park outside Homer, glamping sites have been installed within the primitive-RV camping areas, with one glamping campsite only accessible by boat. Two connected tents fronting the lake, not far from the park’s popular beach, are perfect for large groups, such as parents in one tent with the children in the other. Double tent sites sleep two in each of the tents, but each tent offers an additional pop-up tent that sleeps four apiece. For those who wish to camp on the beach, Grand Isle State Park offers a glamping experience with views of the Gulf. Other state parks that now offer glamping include South Toledo Bend State Park, Lake Fausse Pointe, Chicot, Lake D’Arbonne and Jimmie Davis. Overnight glamping fees, starting at $85, include entrance to the state parks with access to all park facilities, such as bathhouses with showers, toilets and laundry. “I would do it again tomorrow,” Cooper said. “It was such a great family experience. We had the most amazing time.” n
→ TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT TENTRR.COM OR RESERVELASTATEPARKS.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT LOUISIANA STATE PARKS, VISIT LASTATEPARKS.COM
WHAT’S ALREADY THERE
Each campsite offers a queen-sized bed with memory foam mattress, side tables and chairs on the outside porch. A propane heater keeps the canvas tent toasty at night and a fire pit with a grill is available for cooking and heat. Additional features include a picnic table that may be brought outside, solar shower (although we highly recommend the park bathhouses), a pop-up tent for those who want to get closer to nature and a portable camp loo that’s surprisingly convenient and hygienic. WHAT TO BRING
Visitors to the state’s glamping tents should bring all bedding, especially warm blankets if the nights turn cold, as well as food, water and toiletries. Firewood was included in our camping adventure but it’s recommended that visitors bring their own (extra firewood is always a good idea, anyway). Bathhouses are located in the camping sites but for those late-night nature calls, make sure toilet paper is at hand. There’s no electricity at the glamping sites, so flashlights or lanterns are a must. At the end of the stay, everything brought in must be taken out, including the trash.
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PHOTO CONTE ST
Naturally Majestic Grand Cypress In Lake Martin stands tall in the early evening light BY FRANCES WILLIAMS, NEW ORLEANS
48 LOUISIANA LIFE MARCH/APRIL 2021
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