july/august 2013
louisianalife.com
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contents IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Editor
26 Home
Stirring it Up in New Roads
Living in Mediterranean Luxury
By errol laborde
There’s a touch of Spain in this Shreveport home.
10 Barometer
By bonnie warren
A compendium of what’s hot and what’s not
30 Art
by Carolyn Kolb
Spencer Gray Jr.
12 Rural Life
Ferriday artist draws cartoons with pots and pans.
Of Cows and Men
By john r. kemp
Putting inheritance money to good use.
22
By melissa bienvenu
14 Biz Bits
Port Hudson among most important Civil War sites
By kathy finn
By paul f. stahls jr.
16 Health
76 Lifetimes
Medical news in Louisiana
Our statewide calendar of events
By hayley hoeser
By Judi Russell
18 Great Louisiana Chefs
78 Quirky Places
18 Steak, L’Auberge Casino Hotel, Baton Rouge
20 State of the Plate Boudin and Barbecue
By Ryan Whirty
80 A Louisiana Life
Michael Teifer At 24 years old, Michael Teifer ran away and joined the circus.
By Ian McNulty
By megan hill
22 Traveling Gourmet Sorbets and ice creams for the summer
ON THE COVER: Executive Chef Cody Carroll of Hot Tails, New Roads.
by stanley dry
PHOTOGRAPHED BY Cheryl Gerber
When Cold Is Cool
FEATURES
SPECIAL SECTIONS
38 Scaling the Heights
62 Around Louisiana
In search of a seafood king
Louisiana Life presents Around Louisiana, a section featuring the people and places of North Louisiana, Central Louisiana, Cajun Country, Baton Rouge and Plantation Country and Greater New Orleans.
46 A Man and His Melons When it comes to growing the best, the verdict is in for this Bogalusa lawyer.
2 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Soul Survivor Ferriday’s Delta Music Museum
Johnson’s Boucaniere is mixing up modern and traditional food in Lafayette.
By robert peyton
34
The Longest Siege
Business news from around the state
Troy Deano
30
34 Traveler
By GEORGE GURTNER
48 Louisiana’s Top Hospitals The patients speak
By jeanne frois
LouisianaLife july/august 2013 Volume 33 Number 5 Editor Errol Laborde MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Ravits Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Associate Editors Haley Adams, Lauren LaBorde Contributing Editor Paul F. Stahls Jr. Food Editor Stanley Dry Home Editor Bonnie Warren INTERNS Shannon Donaldson, Hayley Hoefer
sales manager Kathryn Beck Sanderson kathryn@louisianalife.com
Sales Assistant Erin Azar
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4 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
on the web louisianalife.com Louisiana Life Photo entry Are you an amateur, professional or “just for fun” photographer with some Louisiana photos to share? We want to hear from you! We want to see some great Louisiana photos, whether they’re of people, landscapes, food, culture or even animals. Don’t miss your chance to have your photo featured in the pages of our magazine for all of our readers to see. Send in your photos by going to myneworleans.com/ Louisiana-Life/Louisiana-Life-Photo-Contest/. Please note that the URL is case-sensitive.
Our readers’ photographs
may:
After the Rain: Rachel Solis of Metairie snapped this pretty shot near Jackson Square in New Orleans after a rain in October 2012.
june:
Peekaboo: Jeanne Louviere of Lafayette spotted this little guy in Lake Martin in May 2013.
?
what are you thinking? Send feedback about this issue to Managing Editor Sarah Ravits at Sarah@LouisianaLife.com. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 7
from the editor MAG ANS ORLE
AZIN
E’S
LE NEW A M FE TOP ERS
IE ACH
V
Stirring it Up in New Roads I have driven along Hospital Road in the Pointe Coupee Parish town of New Roads many times. To me, the street is a switch-over from one highway to another on the way to and from Central
Keynote speaker: Phyllis Landrieu
Carol Bebelle Adelaide Wisdom Benjamin Gayle M. Benson Maria Teresa Blanco Nancy Cassagne Sister Carla Dolce, O.S.U. Janet Daley Duval Betsie Gambel Patricia Gay Susan Larson Nghana tamu Lewis, Ph.D., J.D. Diane B. Lyons Carol Rausch Lauren Thom Beth Arroyo Utterback
Louisiana. Most often my arrival is around lunch time, so I have eaten along the road often; a few times at the Dairy Freeze, which is now closed despite the mushroom burger which was actually pretty good, but most often at a place called False River Seafood where the Vietnamese staff serve up plates full of fried seafood over a dish that frequently gets lost in other places, but there is very good, chicken-fried rice. I might have stopped there again during my last trip except for a new discovery down at the far end of the road, a place called Hot Tails that I had somehow never noticed before. I thought I knew all the restaurants in
WEDNESDAY July 10, 2013
New Roads – there aren’t that many of
W HOTEL | NEW ORLEANS
been a judge at the Louisiana Seafood
333 Poydras Street 11:30 Champagne Reception 12:00 Luncheon & Program
FOR MORE INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS Kristi Ferrante 504.830.7264 Kristi@MyNewOrleans.com
TICKETS
$25 Each | $250 Table of 10 All proceeds benefit Grace House.
them – but this one had been unnoticed. Not anymore. A week earlier, I had Promotion & Marketing Board’s Seafood Cook-Off competition. One of the contestants was Hot Tails’ Cody Carroll, who served a Speckled Trout Perdu dish that had so many flavorful ingredients it had to be served in a bowl. Though we judges never got to see the tabulated votes, from talking to other judges after the contest I suspect Chef Carroll won by a landslide. By sheer circumstance I happened to be driving by Hot Tails a week later. I stopped in long enough to take a picture of Carroll and his sous chef and wife, Samantha. New Roads is hardly a media center, but the word of the local guy’s success was getting out. As I got out
THIBODAUX REGIONAL®
MEDICAL CENTER
of my automobile, a woman who was getting into hers asked me if I had eaten there before.
8 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
I told her I had not. Then she and her husband sided up next to men as though to deliver a state secret: “Last week he was selected the Louisiana Seafood King.” “Wow!” I responded. Carroll’s crown is now on display in a trophy case inside the restaurant. So too are diplomas he and Samantha earned from the Baton Rouge-based Louisiana Culinary Institute. Seeing the couple pose together reminded me that last year’s Cook-Off winner, Keith Frentz of Lola restaurant in Covington, was also part of a tandem with his wife, Nealy CrawfordFrentz. Might we be seeing a new generation of chef teams who studied cooking together and now are creating imaginative new dishes, not just in the big city, but along country roads, too? Carroll is proud of the restaurant he converted from a former drive-through convenience store. He’s also excited about his neighborhood. Down the block across the street, a new Walmart is rising. Across the road, work has begun on a strip shopping center. “I am going to get a bigger sign,” he said. I suspect he will need it. n
—Errol Laborde
barometer A compendium of what’s hot and what’s not in Louisiana By carolyn kolb Day Helicopter Fly for remote-
of-the-art hands-on science
controlled helicopters at Hinch
learning center for the
Field in Carlyss, reported the
St. Bernard Parish school
Sulphur Daily News. From
system. Schools will utilize
attendance of about a dozen
the Maumus center in
in 1979, the event has grown,
conjunction with the parish’s
with participants ranging
science curriculum, focusing
from amateurs to experts.
on the region’s ecology and
“It’s international. We’ve
environmental issues, with
had people from Bulgaria,
the focal point being the
Mexico, Canada, Japan. This
new planetarium, housed in
year there’s someone from
a newly constructed 4,000-
Phoenix,” said Bo Hinch,
square-foot building addition.
founder of the event.
HOT
“I Do” at the Zoo
a member of the Harlem
Gabriel, 7, and
Globetrotters; track and field
Evangeline, 9, were too tall
All-American Chris Carter
for a hall, so the wedding
and football All-American
of the two giraffes at Zoo of
Felton Huggins. The three
Acadiana in Broussard was an
will be formally installed at
outdoor event, complete with
a football game in October
attendants and guests wearing
and will bring the number of
animal prints, giraffe ears and
inductees to 131, according
complete giraffe costumes.
to the Amite-Tangi Digest.
Gabriel celebrated by eating the attendants’ bouquets of alfalfa,
Happy Birthday, Baker!
bamboo shoots and heart-
HOT
shaped apple slices. A $65,000
City of Baker representa-
fundraising campaign brought
tives buried a time capsule
his bride, Evangeline, to the zoo
about life in 2013 as part
from Kansas last October. The
of the community’s 125th
Louisiana Kids and Acadiana
birthday celebration, said the
Symphony Orchestra provided
Zachary Plainsman News.
music for the ceremony
Representatives from the
and reception, reported the
Baker Heritage Museum, City
Lafayette Advertiser.
Hall and the Baker Chamber of Commerce hosted the free
HOT
“Big Easy” Makes Hall of Champions
celebration with children’s activities, pony rides, a
Southeastern Louisiana
classic car show, art displays
University in Hammond will
and dancing to live music by
add three new names to their
local singers.
sports Hall of Champions: Nate “Big Easy” Lofton, who
Flying High
played men’s basketball
HOT
at Southeastern from
Kontrol Society (LARKS)
2003-’05 and is currently
hosted its 34th annual May
10 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
The Lake Area Radio
HOT
NOT
“The Play’s The Thing!”
Monument Needed The Pointe Coupee
Banner reported that no
Teenage actress Hannah
suitable monument currently
McNew from Choudrant,
marks the resting place of a
of Cedar Creek School
remarkable Pointe Coupee
in Ruston, placed as a
Parish resident, but fundraising
semi-finalist at the 30th
efforts by the Pointe Coupee
season of the English-
Historical Society are planned
Speaking Union National
as a remedy. Petrus LaForest
Shakespeare Competition
Albert Plantevigne, commonly
and performed onstage at
known as L.A. Planving, was
Lincoln Center Theater in
born in Pointe Coupee in 1869,
New York City. The Monroe
earned a degree at Straight
News Star reported that
University in New Orleans
her performance included a
(a predecessor of Dillard
sonnet and monologue from
University) and returned home
Shakespeare’s works.
to start a school for black students. History buff Stafford
HOT
Seeing Stars in St. Bernard
Chenevert found Planving’s simple gravesite near the Zion
The St. Bernard Voice
Travelers Baptist Church in
reported that the $15 million
Oscar. The fundraising goal for
FEMA-funded Maumus
the monument is $5,000, with
Center in Old Arabi,
hopes for additional funding
scheduled for completion
for an endowed scholarship in
in late 2014, will be a state-
Planving’s honor. n
quotable “Wonderful Southern must-haves never fail to salute the seasons. Can a deep South garden be complete without magnolias, azaleas, wisterias and crepe myrtles [?]... I think not!” “Lagniappe and Leftovers,” Brenda Ardillo Bellavia, Tangilena.com photo courtesy of Paul Kieu, The Advertiser
rural life
Of Cows and Men
Understand, I don’t hate cows. I don’t dislike cows. I will even admit to being rather fond of a few cows in my day. But I can honestly say that our dairy farming years left me with zero desire to have large, dumb, smelly, expensive, flyattracting, trouble-making animals hanging around just for the heck of it. Sure, cow ownership had its rewards. When everything went smoothly, the births of newborns were happy occasions. Pastures of peacefully grazing livestock enhanced the scenery and lent a feeling of companionship we later missed. And although we
Putting inheritance money to good use.
social schedules, housework
didn’t make pets of our cows – they came and went too often
By Melissa Bienvenu
or that certain tone of voice or facial expression that
for getting attached – a few
never fails to push the other
stubbornly affectionate ones
it was much more than
one’s buttons. Yet, I’m happy
made pets of themselves. I
died two years ago at the
one might ever expect to
to say, we never clash over
remember calves that followed
age of 99, naming my sister
inherit from a retired civil
money. We don’t play “my
us around like puppies, and a
and I (the children of his late
servant who had lived on a
money” and “your money.”
milk cow who would sidle up
daughter) among his heirs.
fixed income for 34 years.
It is all “our money.” In
and nuzzle our backs.
Granddaddy was a retired
Knowing the decades of
practically every financial
government employee who
work, self-sacrifice and lonely
decision, we either agree or
about cows, however, is the
managed to build up a sizeable
widowhood Granddaddy
allow the other the freedom
relentless headache of keeping
nest egg through careful
endured while patiently
to spend as they see fit.
them alive and milked. Just
money management. Though
accumulating this gift, I was
unreservedly generous with
determined to use it wisely. I
old money. It was special
feet was a challenge. Cows,
others, this Great Depression
envisioned putting it toward
money. Special money that
especially when sick or
survivor was not one to spend
our children’s college, our
Harvey had – in my opinion
injured, have a tendency to get
recklessly on himself. When
retirement or paying off debts.
– just squandered on some
“down” – prostrate on their
he died in 2011, for example,
You know – sensible choices
of the most aggravating
sides and unable to get up. If
he was still using the same
like Granddaddy, himself,
creatures ever to roam the
they stay down too long, they
harvest gold iced-tea glasses
would have made.
face of the earth.
die. I wish I knew how many
My beloved
grandfather
I remembered from my
That is why I heard my own
But this wasn’t just any
Or, as I put it to Harvey,
Mainly what I remember
keeping them on all four
times I found myself rolling
grandparents’ kitchen in the
voice rising shrilly one day
“My Granddaddy worked his
around in the slop trying
1970s. Keeping up with the
after my husband casually
whole life for that money, and
to wrestle a 1,200-pound
latest fashions was not one
mentioned that he had dipped
I do not intend to spend it on
behemoth into an upright
of his priorities. Bequeathing
into my inheritance to buy a
some damned cow.”
position. Typically, they
money to his children was.
couple of cows.
One of his sons theorized that Granddaddy willed himself to live so long in part
“You did what?” I all but shrieked. Let me explain. The money
As the wife of a third-
managed to land in an icy mud
generation ex-dairy farmer,
puddle on a freezing night or
I consider myself something
under a barbwire fence or in
of an authority on damned
some other ridiculous fix. Adding to all this
to accrue more interest for
was not the issue. Like any
cows. Until 2003, when we
his children to inherit.
married couple, Harvey and
bailed out of the dying dairy
enjoyment, the patient was
I have had our share of spats
industry, we owned about
often trying to kick the life
– over child-raising, family,
200 Holstein cows of all ages.
out of you while you were
My windfall wasn’t “quit your job” kind of cash, but 12 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
trying to save hers. Cow kicks
one to the auction – where
those years of dairy farming?
sipping from the same cloudy,
range from the merely painful
it was usually destined to
I railed. If cows were such
outdated drinking glasses we
to the fatal. I will never forget
become a Quarter Pounder
money-makers, I groused,
had 40 years earlier.
one of our top milk producers
with cheese – or continuing
then why did we get out of the
– #29 – who seemed to have it
to feed a worthless cow. (That
dairy business?
in for me, in particular. I still
may sound cold, but not so
think that evil thing needed
much when your feed bill is
that he could make money
his children were young.
an exorcism.
$100,000 a year.) Cow prices
off this deal. I continued to
Even when he was in his 90s,
stunk so bad when we quit,
differ. We went back and forth
he still spoke wistfully about
middle-of-the-night phone
a joke went around that a
like this for a while before I
those days. I think he gave it
calls from the sheriffs
farmer had tied two calves
finally got him to admit what I
up because he never really
department telling us cows
in the back of his truck and
suspected all along: He bought
made a go of it financially and
were out on the highway.
parked it in town with a
cows because he wanted some.
maybe because his wife and
There is nothing quite like
sign saying, “Free to a Good
He had me dead to rights.
daughter weren’t that crazy
a rodeo at 3 o’clock in the
Home.” When he returned,
Harvey, you see, is a lot
about farm life, either. I tend
morning. Or truck drivers
someone had left three more
like my grandfather. He
to think of his farming years
who sue you because they hit
calves in the truck.
never hesitates to share what
as one of the very few times
This is why I was not
he has with others, but he
in his life he did something
exactly high-fiving Harvey
is practically a miser with
for himself instead of putting
when he announced that he
himself. He is so reluctant to
everybody else’s wants and
to lose money. Every animal
was bringing cows back into
treat himself to any purchase
needs ahead of his own.
that died was hundreds or
our life – via my inheritance,
that isn’t absolutely necessary
thousands of dollars down the
no less. I was even more
that I usually have to finagle
way, I have to admit that I
drain, and they always seemed
agog when he explained that
him into it or buy it myself.
was wrong for getting upset
to be worth more when you
he planned to turn enough
Should he outlive me the way
with my husband. And that
bought them than when you
profit on his little herd to pay
my grandfather outlived my
Granddaddy would probably
sold them. Many times we had
our property taxes. Hadn’t
grandmother, I fully anticipate
be glad that Harvey bought
he learned anything in all
he will go to his final rest
himself those damned cows. n
Then there were the
one of your cows on the road and dent their bumper. There was no end of ways
to choose between sending
Harvey continued to insist
The funny thing is, Granddaddy once tried farming for a few years when
When I think about it that
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 13
biz bits
Metal Shark Boat
Business news from around the state By kathy finn
Chief Executive
develop a software services
magazine recently ranked
center as part of a mixed-use
Louisiana No. 11 in the U.S. –
development along the river
the state’s highest position ever
in the capital city and employ
– in the publication’s annual
a broad range of college
ranking of Best & Worst States
graduates and experienced
for Business. The ranking
professionals.
River in Jefferson Parish. The
Shreveport. The Phoenix-based
project will create 65 new
firm has been showing the two-
ongoing rise in national
million in funding aimed at
jobs, with as many as 750
passenger vehicle around the
business circles. Here are some
increasing the number of
construction jobs during a
country as it touts its low-cost,
highlights of businesses making
computer science graduates
three-year period. Cornerstone
high-gas mileage features.
news around the state.
from LSU, which expects to
already produces acrylonitrile,
Elio brought the prototype to
double its computer science
melamine and sulfuric acid at
the former General Motors
Ripples grow as boat builder expands JEANERETTE – A boat builder
faculty and triple the program’s
the 800-acre Waggaman site
assembly plant in west
graduates in five years. IBM
and will integrate the new
Shreveport for private viewings
will work with LSU faculty
plant into the existing complex.
followed by a public showing.
that recently expanded in
to shape courses around
Jeanerette already plans more
the center’s needs and will
growth, creating close to a
also reach into high schools,
hundred new jobs in the area, a
technical colleges and other
company official said recently.
further illustrates Louisiana’s
Louisiana will provide $14
The vehicle is considered a motorcycle by the Federal
universities to promote interest
Armored vehicles reinforce southeast Louisiana job growth NEW ORLEANS –Textron
Metal Shark Boats, which
in fields relevant to the center’s
Marine & Land Systems
is projected to be $6,800 when
custom-builds durable vessels
work. A separate 11-story
continued to deepen its
deliveries start in July 2014.
for the U.S. Coast Guard,
building planned by private
footprint in New Orleans and
Navy and Army, in March
interests within the footprint of
Slidell as it announced a $5.5
announced a $1.5 million
the new complex would create
million contract award from the
expansion of its local shipyard.
100 new residential apartments
U.S. Army Tank-Automotive
Chemical production deepens riverside roots GEISMAR – The local economy
The growth comes on the
and townhomes.
and Armaments Command
continues to percolate along
to provide 12 armored turrets
the river as Methanex Corp.
and support services for the
prepares to move a second
Colombian Army’s Armored
methanol plant from Chile to
build security response vessels
Latest economic news is ‘Dyno-mite’ WAGGAMAN – The state’s
Personnel Carriers Company.
a 225-acre site in Geismar.
for the Coast Guard. Metal
chemical corridor landed a big
An operating unit of Textron
The company announced last
Shark expects to double its
one when Utah-based Dyno
Systems, the New Orleans-
year it would relocate a plant
manufacturing capacity and
Nobel America announced it
based Textron Marine & Land
to the Ascension Parish site,
grow its local work force by 30
will partner with Cornerstone
Systems produces advanced,
and in April it followed with
percent during the next four
Chemical Co. on a $1 billion
wheeled combat vehicles and
the announcement of a second
years, company president Chris
investment in Waggaman.
cutting-edge maritime craft
relocation. The combined
Allard said.
The project will include an
for U.S. and international
plants represent a $1.1 billion
$850 million ammonia plant
armed forces, as well as civilian
investment in the local area
Big Blue likes Red Stick BATON ROUGE – A $30 million
that is designed to use less
entities around the globe.
that will create 165 jobs, plus
investment by computer
pollution than other such
hardware heavyweight IBM
plants. The new facility will
promises to dramatically
heels of a previous expansion undertaken when the company won a $192 million contract to
energy and produce less air
Motor Vehicle Safety Standards but is fully enclosed. The base price of the unnamed vehicle
2,500 construction jobs. developments, Houston-
produce up to 880,000 tons of
Three-wheeler holds promise for Shreveport SHREVEPORT – Startup auto
expand technology education at
ammonia a year. Cornerstone
manufacturer Elio Motors
Partners LP announced it will
Louisiana State University and
also will upgrade its Fortier
recently unveiled a version of
invest almost $60 million to
create 800 jobs in Baton Rouge.
Manufacturing Complex on the
the three-wheel vehicle the
expand its chemical storage
The company announced it will
west bank of the Mississippi
company plans to build in
capacity in Geismar.
14 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
In support of the new based Kinder Morgan Energy
n
health
By hayley hoeFer
Binding Documents Signed to Save UMC Lafayette – Lafayette General continues to make progress toward finalizing its acquisition of University University Medical Center
Medical Center, the financially struggling hospital it has pledged to save. In December
medical care in the region.
Centers to meet stringent
2012, Lafayette General,
“This agreement will preserve
requirements, including
Cutting Edge Shreveport – The staff
as well as members of
community-based care for
providing 24-hour avail-
at LSU Health Shreveport
Louisiana Department of
many, as well as maintain
ability of neurocritical care,
believes that when its
Health and LSU Health,
medical education. I am proud
advanced imaging capabili-
Surgical Skills Lab opens
publically declared their goal
to see this agreement come
ties and post-hospital care
this month, the hospital
of keeping UMC running,
to fruition,” says Louisiana
coordination. “By achieving
will gain a reputation as a
and with the concerned
Department of Health and
this advanced certification,
regional training center.
parties’ recent signing of
Hospitals Interim Kathy H.
Ochsner Medical Center
The new facility will benefit
the binding documents
Kliebert in a hospital-gener-
has thoroughly demon-
the training experience
ated press release.
strated the greatest level of
for surgery residents by
commitment to the care of
giving them the opportunity
Ochsner Medical Center Achieves Comprehensive Stroke Center Accreditation by the Joint Commission New Orleans – Ochsner
its patients with a complex
to learn in a setting that
stroke condition,” says Mark
mimics real surgery with
R. Chassin, M.D., FACP,
incredible accuracy. In a
M.P.P., M.P.H., president
stress-free environment,
of The Joint Commission,
residents will have the
in a Ochsner press release.
opportunity to train on
Lafayette General will take
Medical Center has received
As an accredited Care
bodies donated to science
over management of UMC
Disease-Specific Care
Comprehensive Stroke
using the latest instruments
and its residents and clinics.
Comprehensive Stroke
Center, Ochsner Medical
and technology. Because
Through its management,
Center Certification from The
Center continues to
of the lifelike experiences
Lafayette General intends to
Joint Commission and the
distinguish itself as a premier
that the Surgical Skills Labs
expand UMC’s clinics and
American Heart Association/
provider of health care,
promises to offer residents
improve the hospital’s overall
American Stroke Association
especially in the field of
in comparison to traditional
efficiency. In general, people
(AHA/ASA) and thus joins
neuroscience. Indeed, the
simulation programs,
of Acadiana appear grateful
an elite group of providers
certification is just one of the
LSU Health Shreveport is
that UMC will remain open
focused on complex stroke
numerous honors that Oscar
already attracting highly
and have expressed belief
care. The Joint Commission
Medical Center’s neurosci-
respected faculty and
that the partnership with
and the AHA/AHA expect
ence programs have earned
residents and is sure to
Lafayette General will improve
Comprehensive Stroke
in recent years.
draw more in the future.
necessary to put this plan into action, Lafayette General has completed the second phase of its commitment. The public-private partnership of Lafayette General and UMC will allow medical residents to serve at both hospitals, but
16 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
n
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 17
great louisiana chefs Pork Belly and Spring Corn Maque Choux Pork Belly 2 pounds pork belly 4 cans Tin Roof Perfect Tin Amber Ale 1 cup celery 1 cup onion 1 cup carrot 1 each jalapeno 2 tablespoons salt Rough chop all vegetables and place in roasting pan. Place pork belly on top of vegetables. Pour Tin Roof over the belly and add salt. Make sure that the belly is fully submerged under beer. If belly is not fully submerged, make sure to add a bit of water. Cover with plastic and foil. Preset oven to 250 degrees. Place pan in the oven and roast for 4 hours. Once the belly is done, it’s easiest to let it cool just a bit and remove from braising liquid (be gentle; it will be very tender). Deano likes to add some extra flavor to the belly by reducing the braising liquid to about a pint. The liquid, finished with a 1/4 pound of butter, makes a very rich and flavorful finishing sauce.
Troy Deano 18 Steak, L’Auberge Casino Hotel, Baton Rouge Troy Deano has established a name for himself in Baton Rouge, having worked his way through the ranks of a Louisiana chef with an alreadyestablished big name, John Besh. Deano, a native of Chalmette in St. Bernard Parish, worked for the Besh Restaurant Group for seven years, serving as sous chef at Luke San Antonio, Besh Steakhouse New Orleans and La Provence near Mandeville, where he learned to appreciate the farm-to-table movement. A less glitzy but just as nourishing opportunity came while at Besh Restaurant Group when Deano was contracted to provide approximately 1,800 meals daily to St. Bernard Parish Sheriff’s Department personnel and other first responders following Hurricane Katrina. Deano’s first experience at a casino was when he managed a culinary team of nearly 20 employees at Big Sky Steakhouse at Coushatta Casino Resort. Deano regularly demos at the Red Stick Farmers Market, local nonprofit events and local universities, proving that the best food comes with a story.
Spring Corn Maque Choux 1 ounce duck fat 1 quart corn (fresh shucked) 4 tablespoons jalapeno 4 tablespoons red bell pepper 4 tablespoons shallots 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoons lime zest 2 tablespoons cilantro 1 tablespoons sambal 2 tablespoons butter In a hot skillet add duck fat. Add the onion, pepper and jalapeno; sauté until they become slightly browned. Add all other ingredients except the butter and stir until liquids have been fully reduced. Remove from heat and fold in butter to the maque choux. This will give the maque choux a creamy glaze that is rich in flavor. Assembly: Cut the belly into 1-by-3-inch rectangle shaped pieces. Deano uses his grandmother’s cast-iron skillet with about 2 ounces of bacon fat to sear the belly and give it a good, crispy texture to the outside. Place the seared pork belly on top of your maque choux, garnish with some fresh basil and enjoy. n cheryl gerber photograph
18 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 19
state of the plate
Boudin and Barbecue Johnson’s Boucaniere is mixing up modern and traditional food in Lafayette. By Ian McNulty
Eating around
for people visiting the area to
The big things here are
There’s the “Oja special”
Louisiana takes you to plenty
get their boudin fix. It finally
boudin, barbecue and music.
– smoked, pulled chicken
of places that emanate proud
closed in 2005, but it didn’t
The walls are lined with CDs
sandwich with smoked garlic
history and tradition, and
take long for the yearning for
for sale from local musicians,
pork sausage and homemade
the same pursuit also takes
its old traditions to kindle a
their music is always on the
barbecue ranch dressing.
you to some places that feel
rebirth of sorts. In 2008, Lori
sound system, and it’s normal
There’s another sandwich
new, modern and forward-
Walls, the granddaughter of
to run into a few musicians
they call a Cajun version
looking. It’s rare to find an
Johnson’s Grocery founder
you might have seen on
of a Philly cheesesteak and
eatery that convincingly, and
Arnestor Johnson, opened
the festival circuit in here
the “parrain special,” which
deliciously, combines the
her Johnson’s Boucaniere.
chowing down, too.
involves a boudin ball that’s
best of both. But that’s how it
It sits just on the edge of
About that boudin: If you
been smashed, covered with
goes at Johnson’s Boucaniere
downtown Lafayette, not
remember the old Johnson’s
barbecue sauce and enrobed
(1111 St. John St., Lafayette,
far from the University of
Grocery links, this one will take
in American cheese all on an
(337) 269-8878; www.john-
Louisiana at Lafayette. The
you back. Unwrap the white
Evangeline Maid bun.
sonsboucaniere.com), a great
place has a modern/old-
butcher paper, bite in, and
smokehouse in Lafayette with
fashioned mash-up feel. It
you should hear a snap. It’s
place for lunch or to pick up
the energy of the new and the
looks like an old grocery on
very meaty, with a medium-
food to bring home – or for
momentum of a long history.
the inside. It’s cluttered, small
spice level – peppery but more
the cooler – because it closes
and homey, and people line
about savory seasoning than
early most nights, 6 p.m.,
harkens back to Johnson’s
up to place their orders while
spicy, spicy hot.
Tuesday to Thursday. They
Grocery, which started off as
pondering the meats on
a dry-goods store in Eunice
display in the butcher case.
with lots of sauce and lots
Friday and Saturday,
in the 1930s. Johnson’s
But the area where everyone
of seasoning – works itself
after which, presumably
Grocery became a Eunice
eats is a very contemporary-
into platters and sandwiches.
everyone should be out
institution, and eventually it
looking covered patio that
Here’s where the menu takes
dancing to some Lafayette
grew into an essential stop
wraps around the building.
more of a contemporary turn.
music anyway.
Johnson’s Boucaniere
Cajun-style barbecue –
Johnson’s Boucaniere is a
stay open until 9 p.m. on
n
Livonia Landmark Closed (for Now?) In its heyday, lines of hungry customers stretched down the steps leading to Joe’s Dreyfus Store Restaurant (2731 Maringouin Road, Livonia). These days, however, fans of Livonia’s landmark eatery have to play a different sort of waiting game – waiting to see if it will once again reopen. The building dates to 1925 and for many generations operated as the Dreyfus Store, a 20 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
dry goods purveyor for the surrounding farm community. When a New Orleans chef, Joe Major, took over in 1989, he added his name to the marquee and turned the place into one of the most renowned eateries of rural Louisiana. People flocked here for stuffed quail, catfish etouffee, crawfish bisque and oysters Rockefeller in a rustic setting. Joe’s Dreyfus Store Restaurant changed
hands (though not names) in 2004, but it closed in 2007. The brother and sister team of Bobby Webber and Linda Webber Ducote reopened the place in 2008, but now the doors are shuttered. The current owners have posted a hopeful message on its website, however, hinting that a reopening date may be announced soon. For updates, see www.joesdreyfusstorerestaurant.com
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 21
traveling gourmet
When Cold Is Cool Sorbets and ice creams for the summer By Stanley Dry
If you like to fool
just as satisfying as creating
around with different flavors
something flavored with
and combinations of flavors,
bizarre ingredients.
making ice creams and sorbets
I like to add some liquor
is a perfect way to indulge
to ice creams and sorbets
your passion. Soups, stews
because the alcohol improves
and other one-pot dishes also
the consistency and helps
offer fertile grounds for experi-
to prevent ice crystals from
mentation, but ice creams and
forming. Vodka is a good
sorbets are better suited to
choice if you don’t want to add
our hot and steamy summers.
another flavor, but the entire
Besides, frozen desserts are just
range of liquors and liqueurs
more fun.
provides many possibilities.
Granted, pursuing ideas
When using alcohols, add them
that don’t work out can get
in small increments to the mix,
expensive, but you can minimize
tasting after each addition. Too
that by making very small
much alcohol, in addition to
batches. When you’re happy
ruining the balance of flavors,
with a new creation, you can
will keep the mixture from
make a full container to share
freezing. One-quarter cup of
with family and friends. Just be
80- or 90-proof alcohol in a
sure to write down the quantity
one-quart mixture is probably
of each ingredient as you go
about the maximum amount
along, or you may never be able
you can use and still achieve
to replicate your recipe. That
proper freezing.
happened to me recently, and
Unless you’re scooping
I never was able to reproduce
directly from the ice cream
exactly what I made previously.
machine, it’s best to remove
Talk about frustrating.
the ice cream or sorbet from
The most important rule in
the freezer five to 10 minutes
making ice creams and sorbets
before serving in order for it
is the same as it is in any
to soften a bit. Or, if you can
culinary endeavor: Use only
remember, transfer the dessert
first-rate ingredients. Cheap
from the freezer to the refrig-
ingredients and imitation
erator when you sit down to
flavorings will produce
lunch or dinner. If you’re not
second-rate results. Your
indulging in a long meal, your
creations can be, but don’t have
dessert will be ready to serve
to be, extreme. Developing a
when you are. And if you
recipe for the best vanilla ice
forget, you can always zap it in
cream you ever tasted will be
the microwave.
.
eugenia uhl photograph
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 23
Cardamom Coffee Ice Cream
Maple Walnut Ice Cream
Arabic coffee flavored with cardamom is a personal favorite.
No shortcuts here. You need pure maple syrup, not a blend or an extract.
2 2 1 4 4 2 3
1 ½ cups whole milk 1 ½ cups heavy cream 3/4 cup pure maple syrup 1 ½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract 3 tablespoons vodka 3/4 cup shelled walnuts
cups whole milk cups heavy cream cup sugar tablespoons instant dark roast coffee teaspoons ground cardamom teaspoons pure vanilla extract tablespoons vodka
Place all ingredients in mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Chill thoroughly, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately or transfer to a container and place in freezer. Makes about 1 quart.
Place milk, cream, maple syrup, vanilla and vodka in mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Add walnuts. Process mixture in blender until smooth. Chill thoroughly, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately or transfer to a container and place in freezer. Makes about 1 quart.
Chocolate Ice Cream Mint Julep Sorbet This is a very cooling and refreshing treat on a hot day. 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cups packed fresh mint leaves 1/4 cup bourbon mint leaves for garnish Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove pan from heat and add mint leaves. With a spoon, press mint so it is completely covered with water. Cover pan and steep for 30 minutes. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer and squeeze mint leaves to extract all liquid. Add bourbon. Chill thoroughly, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately and garnish with fresh mint leaves or transfer to a container and place in freezer. Makes about 1 quart. Honey Yogurt Ice Cream The tang of yogurt is balanced by the soothing smoothness of honey. For maximum flavor, use a dark, full-bodied honey. Many Louisiana honeys fit the bill. 1 cup Greek-style yogurt 2 cups half-and-half ½ cup honey 3 tablespoons vodka Combine yogurt, half-and-half, honey, and vodka in mixing bowl. Whisk to combine. Chill thoroughly, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately or transfer to a container and place in freezer. Makes about 1 quart.
24 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
This recipe offers plenty of room for experimentation. Try substituting a little dark rum or brandy for some of the vodka. 3.5 ounces bittersweet chocolate ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 3 cups half-and-half 1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 3 tablespoons vodka Place chocolate and sugar in mixing bowl. Heat half-and-half to a simmer, then pour in bowl and whisk to melt chocolate. Add cream, vanilla, and vodka, whisking to combine. Chill thoroughly, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately or transfer to a container and place in freezer. Makes about 1 quart.
Ginger Cantaloupe Sorbet Fresh ginger and lime juice enhance the flavor of cantaloupe. 1 cup water 3/4 cup sugar 1 inch fresh ginger 1 large or 2 small cantaloupes 1/4 cup lime juice 1/4 cup vodka Combine water and sugar in a small saucepan. Peel and slice ginger and add to pan. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Turn off heat, cover and macerate for an hour or two. Strain and discard ginger. Halve cantaloupe(s), discard seeds, and remove flesh from rind. Cut cantaloupe into chunks, add to blender, and puree enough to yield 3 cups. Add ginger syrup, lime juice and vodka to blender and pulse to combine. Refrigerate mixture until thoroughly chilled. Process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately or transfer to a container and store in freezer. Makes about 1 quart.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 25
home
Living in Mediterranean Luxury There’s a touch of Spain in this Shreveport home. By Bonnie Warren | Photographed by Craig Macaluso
The stately
Spanish-
her time between sharing the
The Lynches’ home makes
with a sturdy balustrade. James, the authorized
style home in Shreveport’s
family home in Shreveport
a bold statement in a neigh-
historic South Highlands
with her husband, James, and
borhood where traditional
Chevrolet Buick dealer of
neighborhood is a gem
a charming historic cottage
architecture dominates. The
DeSoto Parish, explains some
among its neighboring grand
near Magazine Street in
striking exterior seems to
of the unique history of the
homes. “All of the homes
Uptown New Orleans. “South
have been transported from
house. “The house was built
in our area have a lot of
Highlands is a friendly,
the Mediterranean Coast of
in 1929 by the Ellis family,
character, and each one is
established neighborhood
Spain or Portugal, or even a
who wanted their children
lovely in its own special way,”
where most of the residents
grand Mexico City neighbor-
to play different musical
says designer Regina Lynch,
grew up and where they
hood. The house features
instruments,” he says. “So
who owns Écru Antiques and
are now raising their own
stylized stucco covering the
they designed the big den
Interiors on Magazine Street
children and grandchildren,”
exterior, arches across the
that adjoins the intimate
in New Orleans and divides
she says.
front porch and a balcony
living room as their own
26 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
concert hall for music, dancing and entertaining.
from darker woods.” To further enhance the
We enjoy the fact that our
style of the architecture,
house is different.”
she used Saltillo floor
Regina loved the idea
tiles and a stamped tin
of making the interior
ceiling in the den and
of the house as exciting
honed travertine with dark
and interesting as the
veining on the foyer and
exterior. “I wanted each
dining room floors. The
room to have a warm,
main entertaining spaces
Mediterranean feeling,”
on the first floor include
she says. “I enjoyed
the living room, den and
searching for just the
sunroom on one side of
right rich velvets and
the foyer, with the dining
heavy woven fabrics to
room and kitchen on the
mimic the aged look.
opposite side.
Most of the furnishings
“Each room is special
are Spanish, Italian and
in its own way,” Regina
French antiques made
explains. “However,
.
FACING PAGE: The rear of the Lynches’ home embraces the large swimming pool and hot tub. An outdoor kitchen and dining area fits neatly under the porch. TOP: Honed travertine tile with dark veining was used for floor in the foyer. LEFT: The cheerful sunroom features skylights and clerestory windows to embrace maximum light. The French doors at the end of the room open onto the rear veranda. ABOVE: Regina and James Lynch, with their pets, Minnie, a Yorkshire Terrier; and Mia, a Maltese. Regina is a designer who divides her time between her antique shop in New Orleans and her home in Shreveport, while James is the Chevrolet Buick dealer for all of DeSoto Parish. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 27
TOP: Fine antiques were used to furnish the living room. LEFT: Bookcases were added to one end of the large den that was used as a concert hall of sorts for the musically talented children of the original owners. FACING PAGE, TOP: While the kitchen offers the charm and patina of a European space long in existence, it is all new construction. BOTTOM, LEFT: An arched opening was created between the dining room and kitchen, with columns from India flanking the opening. BOTTOM, RIGHT: A comfortable sitting room adjoining the kitchen has a corner eye-level fireplace that provides warmth in cold weather.
with the bare original studs,” Regina says. “The custom cabinets are made from knotty alder, and I personally added the worm edges and wormholes with an ice pick. Of special interest is the butler’s cabinet that was my favorite space is the
cypress glazed with a neutral
that was created for easy
made from a vintage one
sunroom. It’s where I like
color on the walls and ceiling
viewing of the dining room.
from France.” A cozy seating
to cuddle up on a rainy day
of the cheerful room.
“While the kitchen has the
area adjoins the kitchen. “It’s
patina of a space long in
a nice, warm place to sit and
with a cup of tea and a book
The kitchen has an Old
and listen to the rain on the
World vibe, showcased
existence, it was actually
enjoy a cup of coffee when
skylights.” She used pecky
through an arched opening
totally remodeled beginning
the weather is cold outside,”
28 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
James says. The Mediterranean influence
complete privacy to the pool and entertaining area.
is also apparent in the back
“We feel like we are on
of the house, with arches
vacation when we relax in our
enclosing the porch where the
own backyard,” Regina says.
outdoor kitchen and dining
James agrees, adding that they
area are located. A new
both love the neighborhood
two-story rear addition to the
that is filled with beautiful old
house completes a U-shaped
trees and mature landscapes.
configuration that gives
“It’s a pleasure to live here.” N www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 29
art
Spencer Gray Jr. This Ferriday artist draws cartoons with pots and pans. By John R. Kemp
If Fortuna smiles
upon
forks and spoons and anything
Spencer Gray Jr., the city of
else he and his wife, Sharon, glean
Ferriday in northeastern Louisiana
from garage sales, junk shops,
may have to revise its hall of fame
hardware stores and antique
one day.
malls. But most important, his
Gray is a remarkable artist
work delights all who let their
whose skills and imagination give
eyes wander through his playful
new life to dented old pots and
constructions. His whimsical
pans, discarded rusty tools, bent
imagery has an uncommon way
30 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
of evoking memories of a time when a child’s boundless imagination was open to a world where simple household objects became ray guns, spaceships or an old steam-driven train. Though Gray’s work could be called sculpture or assemblages, he describes them as cartoons – and for good reason. After high school, he had dreamed of being a syndicated cartoonist, but a rejection letter killed that hope. “I was young and cocky,” he recalls with a smile. “College was not for me. I wanted to go into the art world and conquer it. I drew a pilot for a comic strip and mailed it off to a syndicate. I got a rejection letter, and it crushed me. One rejection letter was too much. I gave up on that idea, but I didn’t lose my love for art.” With that behind him, Gray pursued a career in jewelry design. “It was a good career choice,” he says, “but maybe not as much fun as a world-famous cartoonist.”
Born in 1963 in New
“I have fond memories of
In 1976, the postal service
Mexico, where his father was
growing up in Ferriday,”
transferred his father to
stationed in the Air Force,
Gray recalls. “I liked to go to
Gulfport, Miss., where Gray
Gray’s life in art began as a
the hardware store and to
would spend his teenage
child, growing up with his
Percy’s barbershop to listen
years. “I didn’t know how
five sisters in his mother’s
to the old men sitting around
famous Ferriday was until I
hometown of Ferriday. His
telling stories – mostly lies, of
grew up,” he says, ticking off
father’s family lived just
course. It was like Mayberry.
the names of cousins Jerry
down Highway 84 in Vidalia.
I also loved to draw and do
Lee Lewis, Jimmy Swaggart
“Ferriday,” he says, “has
self-portraits and sketches of
and Mickey Gilley. He also
always been our home.”
my sisters and friends. I was
could have added famed
Shortly after Spencer Gray
known as the class artist. My
news broadcaster Howard
Jr.’s birth, the family moved
sisters and I played in our
K. Smith and, more recently,
back to Ferriday while his
backyard. I thought I was a
television journalist Campbell
Spencer Sr. went on to
junior scientist, so I would
Brown. Gray’s memories are
finish his career in the Air
catch birds and paint a dot
in good company. Actually,
Force. He retired in 1972
on their legs, thinking I could
city boosters claim Ferriday
and went to work for the
track them that way.” Then
has more famous people
post office in Ferriday.
a friend gave him a BB gun.
per square mile than any
“I shot a bird, and it broke
other American city of
my heart,” he says, reflecting
comparable size.
upon that moment. “It was the last time I hunted.”
Though he still has strong family ties to Ferriday and Vidalia, Gray resides with his wife, Sharon, in Pass Christian, Miss., in a wooded area surrounded by his “little people” in various stages of completion. His journey into this delightful world of three-dimensional cartoons began shortly after Hurricane Katrina devastated southeastern Louisiana and the Mississippi Gulf Coast in late August 2005. With the loss of his work place, Gray began building birdhouses and bird feeders from wine bottles, wood, copper and other found objects. He kept making them until his son
.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 31
Whoever thought you could
reminds them of their own
bend a spoon to make a little
childhood. Maybe I’ve found
girl’s leg and foot?”
the fountain of youth.” He
Gray says his little
recalls the time when, as
creations are reminiscent
a small child, he wanted a
of a time before computer
soldier to guard his bedroom
games and 24-hour cable
door. So he made one by
television. “I try to [depict]
stuffing a pair of his father’s
children playing but never
pants and a shirt. It looked
with modern toys or present
real and scared him so much
day technologies,” he
that he didn’t want to leave
explains. “They are about
his room.
the purity and innocence
Sharon and Spencer Gray
of children at play. I like to
Jr. search for these little
draw from my childhood
pieces of magic as they
experiences when we
drive about the countryside.
used our imaginations to
“We call it going on safari,”
make toys from a stick or
he laughs. “It’s kind of a
a broomstick for a horse
history journey for us that
or a kitchen colander for
brings back memories. If I’m
a helmet. It was a time for
working on a project, I look
playing make-believe and
for a specific thing. And
letting the magic happen.
then there are times I shop
So many people tell me my work
to get things for inspiration. It’s like magic. I spot a piece that tells me immediately what it wants to be. I still go into hardware stores to look at objects. I ask what can I get out of that pan or nut or bolt that no one has
Nicholaus asked him what
homes.” His first
ever seen before. Sometimes
he was going to do with all
effort to create a
it’s hard to sleep at night.
those bird feeders. At his
full-bodied person
I can’t wait to get in my
son’s suggestion, Gray took
with his pots and
studio to finish a piece or
a few of them to the farmers’
pans was a piece
market in nearby Bay St.
he titled Ima T. Pott
Louis and sold them right
with its face fashioned
one in the morning. I’ve
away. A new career was
from an old teapot.
only scratched the surface of
born. From wine bottles, he
“From that,” he says,
began to add other found
“thus came
objects until the assemblages
to life all
began to take on human
these little
his work, Gray rattles
features with bent spoons for
characters. I
off ideas and images
legs and feet and forks for
realized then
arms and hands.
that this art thing had come
Eventually, an artist friend
full circle. I am again a
start a new one. Once I get in the zone, I can work until
what’s coming.” Reflecting upon the growing popularity of
that are only beginning to take form in his imagination. “My pay off,”
advised Gray to refer to his
cartoonist, using forks and
he says, “is to see a smile on a
creations as “art pieces”
spoons rather than pen and
person’s face.”
rather than bird feeders.
ink. I’ve really touched
“They were so much more
a lot of hearts. People
than feeders,” Gray explains.
love to see the eclectic
“Friends began buying them
pieces I use to bring
and putting them inside their
these things to life.
32 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
For more information about Spencer Gray, visit www.spencergrayjr. com
N
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 33
traveler Union charge
The Longest Siege Port Hudson among most important Civil War Sites | by Paul F. Stahls Jr. July 9 marks the
the centennial years, one
taking the form of special
Gen. Nathaniel Banks’ march
150th anniversary of the
personal highlight of which
museum exhibits, handsome
on Shreveport (headquarters of
surrender of Port Hudson,
was the filming (around
commemorative stamps, a
the CSA’s “Trans-Mississippi
the Confederacy’s stronghold
Natchitoches) of the Harold
flood of new books and, of
Department” and intended
on the Mississippi River 25
Sinclair novel called The
course, the reenactments
staging ground for Banks’
miles above Baton Rouge.
Horse Soldiers about Col.
of major battles and locally
invasion of Texas). Those were
There’s still ample time for
Benjamin Grierson’s famous
significant episodes of the war.
not, of course, the extent of the
sesquicentennial-inspired
cross-country raid that
In Louisiana the key events
Louisiana experience. In truth,
tours of our battlefields and
ended in Baton Rouge.
were the 1862 defeat of forts
hardly a town, roadway or
landmarks, but the siege of
When the show premiered
Jackson and St. Philip in
household remained untouched
Port Hudson signals now,
at Shreveport’s venerable
Plaquemines Parish which
by wartime activities, be they
just as it did during the
Strand Theatre, John Wayne
spelled the fall of New Orleans,
the fighting and encampments
conflict itself and during the
drew cheers by proclaiming
two battles for Baton Rouge,
of the armies or peripheral
centennial commemoration
that he, despite playing
the Lafourche-Teche campaign
activities like the shipyards of
of the 1960s, the beginning
Grierson, was really a
of 1863, the siege of Port
Madisonville and Shreveport,
of the end of the War of So
Southerner by virtue of being
Hudson and, of course, the
the troop training at Kentwood,
Many Names.
from Southern California.
Red River Campaign of 1864
the manufacture of medicines
when the battles of Mansfield
at tiny Mount Lebanon, the
and Pleasant Hill halted Maj.
commandeering of homes for
Those of a “certain age,” as they say, can remember 34 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Now as then, the commemoration around the nation is
hospitals and officer quarters,
themselves but the river’s
come. His troops fell back to
raids and assaults against
the shelling of Donaldsonville
No-Yankee zone that lay
Port Hudson to begin what
Port Hudson’s 4.5-mile
and burning of Alexandria,
between them, created and
would be the nine-month
landside perimeter, played
Gen. U.S. Grant’s march and
defended by the two bastions
task of designing, digging,
to a groove laid down by the
canal-digging expeditions
working in tandem. It was,
“hardening” and arming the
thunder of Farragut’s Naval
through northeast Louisiana
in fact, the only thread
place.
artillery. The object of all
and, along the Gulf Coast,
linking the Trans-Mississippi
the stubborn resistance to
and eastern Confederacy,
fort by Adm. David Farragut’s
the army of miserable and
Lincoln’s blockade at ports
essential for communication,
failed on March 14, 1863,
hungry men in the trenches
like the Sabine and Calcasieu
for the safe crossing of men
with a loss of five of his seven
who, after each day’s fighting,
rivers.
and munitions and for the
ships, it became clear that
dined on mule meat and
When the first attack on the
that affection was, of course,
This chapter of the sesqui-
crossing of food, supplies
this would be a lengthy siege,
worse as they molded bullets
centennial, however, belongs
and horses (most shipped
and Banks began preparing
and fashioned makeshift
to Port Hudson, a place well-
down Red River which
for it. First on his agenda
grapeshot by recycling spent
worthy of visiting any year.
entered the Mississippi in the
was a sweep through bayou
shells, scrapiron and shrapnel
Indeed, until you’ve seen its
safe zone) for transport to
country to clear the region of
in preparation for the next
ravines, forests, quagmires
Confederate armies fighting
Gen. Richard “Dick” Taylor’s
day’s attacks.
and serpentine ridges you
in the east.
Confederates, who might
cannot grasp the drama,
otherwise interfere with the
GRANT DIGS LOUISIANA
horror and desperation of
SAGA OF A SIEGE
movements of Union troops
Upriver, meanwhile, Union
the events that unfolded
Louisiana’s Gen. P.G.T.
and supplies necessary for
attempts to take Vicksburg
here. Read the books, study
Beauregard had long
the siege. Taylor, son of U.S.
had begun with failed attacks
the maps, but go there, too,
advocated a fort at Port
President Zachary Taylor,
by Gens. U.S. Grant and William T. Sherman on Nov. 2 and Dec. 26 of 1862, after
US Fleet shelled from bluff, 1863
which Grant resorted to the idea of digging canals from the Mississippi to bypass the formidable bluffs and thus position his troops downriver for attacks on the exposed rear quarters of the city. The most feasible of his three major attempts was the DeSoto Point canal, which would simply shortcut the river’s sharp bend at Vicksburg, providing a safe detour and possibly even
Currier & Ives photo
diverting the river’s course entirely, leaving the city and its artillery abandoned and useless. Another project was digging a 1-mile canal from the river to its long-abandoned meander route that to walk the trails, climb the
Hudson because of its position
played a game of attack and
we know as Lake Providence
observation towers and
on bluffs above a hairpin
retreat as Banks followed him
(an oxbow lake with links to
imagine a river crowded
bend, where with a swivel of
up Bayou Teche and thence
the Tensas River which could
with warships, their decks
its siege guns it could defend
to Opelousas and Alexandria.
transport the troops to a lower
crowded with cannon and
against attacks from up- or
There Banks turned back
point on the Mississippi), and
downriver, and finally, when
south to rejoin Farragut,
a third canal was attempted
mortars, all aimed at you.
Confederate gunboats missed
whose shelling had begun
between Walnut Bayou and
upriver, Confederate guns at
their appointment to assist
on May 22 – the first day of
the river in Madison Parish.
Vicksburg were also trained
the Gen. John Breckinridge
what would be the longest
All failed (largely due to
on the Mississippi, but what
in his attempt to recapture
military siege in American
inopportune fallings and
was being defended was not
Union-held Baton Rouge on
history: a maelstrom of
risings of the Mississippi
Port Hudson or Vicksburg
Aug. 5, 1862, the time had
cannon barrages, infantry
that dried or flooded the
Two-hundred-odd miles
.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 35
walls. Virtually all their artillery had been blasted to pieces, ammunition was practically exhausted, and mule meat can get, you know, tiresome even with an occasional rat for variety. Yet it was not until news of Vicksburg’s July 4 surrender had arrived – and with it the realization that Port Hudson alone could not maintain that vital No-Yankee zone on the Mississippi – did Gardner surrender, commanding his officers and men on July 9 to
Port Hudson’s “Fort Desperate”
lay down their weapons.
Waiting for Farragut, 1863
Port Hudson State
and graphic depictions of
were dispatched by Banks
Historic Site is open Tuesday
fortifications and assault
changed his strategy again
to chase away mixed units
through Saturday each
movements. What you will
and, after months of road
of Confederate cavalry then
week, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. In
not see at Port Hudson is
improvements and bridge-
occupying Clinton, only to be
its interpretive center can
the river, whose dramatic
building, succeeded in moving
roundly defeated and chased
be found such treasures
bend over these 150 years
his army by means of a land
back to Port Hudson.
as the giant garrison
has etched its way farther
flag of these earthworks
downstream, leaving behind
raids and artillery barrages
(taken as a war prize by a
the old battleground with
conducted by Banks’
Massachusetts officer and
its legendary placenames,
successful engagements with
40,000-man army, the
returned as a gift in 2003 by
like Fort Desperate and
Confederate forces east of
6,800 Confederates at Port
the Massachusetts Historical
Artillery Ridge, that belie
the river, Grant marched to
Hudson, now commanded
Society), as well as weapons
the tranquility of today’s
Vicksburg and surrounded
by Gen. Franklin Gardner,
and uniforms of both armies
beautiful park.
the city on May 19. The siege
withstood and in fact scored
was on.
decisive victories during the
canals), after which Grant
march down the west bank for a river crossing on the night of April 30. After several
Aside from the daily
three most massive Union
PORT HUDSON SURRENDERS
assaults, one at the north
As at Vicksburg, the entire
and northeast sections of
Port Hudson region was
the perimeter at dawn on
affected by the siege,
May 27 (involving, for the
evidenced by young
first time, combat action by
Sarah Morgan at nearby
black Union troops, the 1st
Linwood Plantation noting
and 3rd regiments of the
in her now-famous diary
Louisiana Native Guard), the
the frightening sounds
second attack from the south
of artillery. Centenary
and southeast at noon of
College in Jackson (now
the same day, and the third
a State Historic Site) and
a three-pronged attack at
Silliman School in Clinton
3:30 a.m. on June 13. Despite
(still in operation) served
these successes in the face
as hospitals, and sporadic
of staggering odds, despite
skirmishing sprang up
crippling much of Farragut’s
along supply routes and in
fleet and despite inflicting
several towns. One such
6,000 Union casualties
battle occurred on June 3
while suffering only 900
when Col. Grierson and
during the entire siege,
his “Horse Soldiers” (fresh
the Confederates by the
from their hero’s welcome in
end of June could read the
Baton Rouge after their raid)
handwriting on the earthen
36 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
N
best bets Channel Guide: A forest of historical markers and a few surviving lengths of Grant’s canals serve as mementos of the general’s unhappy experiences in Louisiana prior to the siege of Vicksburg, and an invaluable book by David Dumas called Major General U.S. Grant’s March in Louisiana (available in softcover or e-book at authorhouse.com) tells the story in great detail, complete with precise directions for those who’d like to see the landmarks for themselves. Those with limited time can take heart in the fact that the most important and best preserved sites also happen to be the easiest to find, like a significant remnant of the DeSoto Point canal which lies directly across the river from the bluffs of Vicksburg (the only section of the National Military Park on the Louisiana side). In the heart of Lake Providence on the south shore of the town’s namesake lake, a city park (complete with elevated boardwalk) ensures the continued survival of a 1,000-foot length of that canal; and Winter Quarters Plantation on the south shore of Lake St. Joseph – reluctant host of multiple Union encampments during preparations for the westbank march – is now a State Historic Site. Built in sections between 1805 and 1850, it was the only manor of 15 on Lake St. Joseph, and one of few in our northeastern parishes, spared the torch in the spring of 1863, and it is now recovering from damage inflicted by a 2011 tornado. It will not reopen before late 2014 but can be viewed from Louisiana Highway 608.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 37
IN SEARCH OF A
SEAFOOD
K NG BY ROBERT PEYTON PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GERBER 38 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
ou may have noticed that
To enter a competition of this nature requires a great deal of effort
cooking competitions are all
and preparation. None of these chefs took on the task as a holiday
the rage. You can’t turn on
from their day jobs; if anything, the time they spent on the floor of
the television without stumbling
the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center was likely more stressful than
across a group of chefs trying to
their normal routine. You need only read a list of the dishes presented
out-do one another in some context.
to understand what I mean: Chef Carroll presented speckled trout pain
In Louisiana, we add a local spin to just
perdu with étouffée of red swamp crawfish, sweet corn and blue crab
about everything, including cooking
calas, whipped Creole potato salad, Tabasco sabayon, charred green
competitions.
onion and sassafras and house-pickled banana pepper. Chef Troy Deano
2013 marked the sixth year that the
of 18 Steak at L’Auberge Casino in Baton Rouge was second to serve his
Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off was held
dish of cornmeal-crusted croaker with Louisiana Gulf shrimp, croaker
during the New Orleans Wine & Food
cracklins, spring corn maque choux, sausage dumplings and bourbon-
Experience. On May 25, 10 chefs competed
ginger gastrique. Up next chef Tommy DiGiovanni of Arnaud’s in New
for the title of King or Queen of Louisiana
Orleans cooked potato-encrusted cobia over cauliflower-celeriac purée
Seafood and the right to compete in the Great American Seafood Cook-Off held in connection with the Louisiana Restaurant Association Food Service Expo taking place in August, also in New Orleans. The field was chosen from chefs who responded to a call for entries issued by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board, which presents the event. Each chef was allowed one assistant and was required to prepare five portions of a dish in one hour. This may seem like enough time to you, but other than filleting fish and cleaning produce, all of the cooking had to be done on-site, by two chefs, in a fairly small work station. Apart from stocks, all sauces had to be prepared à la minute as well. Despite the time constraints, all of the chefs completed their dishes, but each was working right up until time was called.
f
The chefs were a diverse group, both in age and geography. They presented their food on a tight schedule, with chef Cody Carroll of Hot Tails Restaurant in New Roads up first. He and his wife, Samantha, began cooking at 1:30, and presented at 2:30. Each of the next 10 chefs followed on 10-minute intervals, with chef Guy Sockrider of New Orleans’ Tomas Bistro bringing a close to things at 4 p.m.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 39
this event. There’s no prize money at stake, and the crowd watching numbered around 100 at the busiest point, but most of the chefs seemed nervous when describing their dishes to the judges. And they did describe their dishes to the judges, because nothing was anonymous about the judging. Indeed, the judges sat on a raised platform like Aztec Gods, or like judges at a regional cooking
contest,
depending
on
your
perspective. My point is that the judges didn’t discuss their thoughts on the chefs’ presentations between dishes; they hardly would have had time even if collaboration had been encouraged, but it wasn’t. Each judge individually scored each dish on five categories: presentation, creativity, composition and harmony of ingredients, correct preparation with Creole tomato jus, pancetta lardons, julienned leeks and sautéed
and craftsmanship and flavor, taste and
Morel mushrooms.
texture. I’ve judged cooking competitions
Chef Brett Duffee of Bayona in New Orleans made sautéed American
in the past, including the Grand Tasting at
red snapper with smoked oyster-leek velouté, succotash and Louisiana
NOWFE. It’s not easy to keep perspective on
blue crab. Chef Dustie Latiolais, of Crawfish Town USA in Henderson
what you’ve tasted after an hour or two has
cooked panko-crusted Cypremort Point soft-shell crabs with Tabasco
passed, which speaks to the quality of the dish
chipotle aioli atop Atchafalaya crawfish corn maque choux. Chef Austin
that eventually took the prize this year.
Kirzner of Red Fish Grill in New Orleans followed with crispy smoked
When the votes were tallied, the first
Louisiana soft-shell crab, crawfish maque choux, potato-basil purée
dish served proved the best in the eyes of
and Tabasco sweet and spicy five-pepper glaze. The next chef was Dean
the judges. Chef Cody Carroll was given
Terrebonne of Belle Terre Country Club in LaPlace, who plated Louisiana
the honor by last year’s winners chefs
Gulf fish with sweet and spicy Tabasco onions.
Keith and Nealy Frentz. You may think
Kevin Bourg of Wine Country Bistro and Bottle Shop in Shreveport
I’m using “given the honor” in a figurative
prepared Louisiana flounder Orléanais: seared flounder fillets served with
sense. Not the case; dude had to kneel and
confit of local new potatoes in a mushroom-wine sauce. The penultimate
be crowned. Second-place went to chef
competitor was chef Manny Augello of Jolie’s Bistro in Lafayette, who
Tommy DiGionvanni, and third to chef Guy
made braised Vermillion snapper with heirloom baby tomato and roasted
Sockrider. They seemed pleased.
garlic fumet, Dragoncello sauce and corn romesco toast. Last, chef Sockrider served pecan-crusted Gulf cobia with crab and pecan relish.
Most pleased was the Louisiana Seafood Promotion Board whose post-BP oil spill
Judging the competition were Errol Laborde, editor-in-chief of this
mission of promoting the state’s seafood
magazine; chef Tenney Flynn of GW Fins restaurant in New Orleans; food
had taken another big step. And so too had
writer Rien Fertel; and Megan Murphy, New York-based food writer and
the reputation of some Louisiana chefs.
blogger at ThisGirlCanEat.com. Ewell Smith, executive director of the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board and 2011 winner chef Cory Bahr of Cotton Restaurant in Monroe acted as emcees of the event. The thing that struck me, most of all, was how seriously the chefs took
Wearing the Crown
This year marked the sixth competition for a seafood monarch, as sponsored by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion Board. Here are the winners: 2008: Chef Brian Landry: Galatoire’s, New Orleans (now at Borgne). 2009: Chef Tory McPhail: Commander’s Palace, New Orleans 2010: Chef Chris Lusk: Cafe Adelaide, New Orleans (now at Restaurant R’Evolution) 2011: Chef Cory Bahr: Restaurant Cotton, Monroe 2012: Chef Keith Frentz: Lola, Covington
Speckled Trout Perdu 4 speckled trout fillets (skin on) 4 eggs 4 ounces heavy cream White pepper Salt Sugar (to taste) Whisk together eggs, cream and seasonings. Dry the fillet with a clean paper towel, dredge in mixture and cook on medium-high heat for 40 seconds on each side until fish is cooked throughout. Etouffee of Red Swamp Crawfish 24 ounces crawfish tails (with fat) 4 ounces butter 16 ounces onion 4 ounces bell pepper 4 ounce celery 2 teaspoons garlic 1/3 cup flour 1 teaspoon tomato paste 3 cups chicken stock 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cayenne 1 teaspoon black pepper Melt butter in pan, add onions, bell peppers and celery. Cook until translucent. Add garlic, cook for 1 minute, stir in tomato paste then flour, add crawfish tails, seasonings and fat. Add stock and cook for 30 minutes until thickened. Add green onions. Sweet Corn and Blue Crab Calas 8 ounces cream cheese 3 tablespoons butter 2 cups rice 8 ounces lump crab 8 ounces sweet corn 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon corn starch 2 cup panko bread crumbs 4 cups corn oil Cook rice, set aside. In separate pan add butter, cream cheese, salt and sugar. Melt thoroughly, add lump crab. Blend in rice and let cool. In mixing bowl, blend corn starch and eggs. In a separate bowl add panko bread crumbs. Heat vegetable oil to 350 degrees. Form rice mixture into balls, dip in egg mixture then panko bread crumbs and fry until golden brown. Whipped Creole Potato Salad 4 medium Russet potatoes (peeled and diced)
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LOST TROUT
1 1/2 tablespoons Creole mustard 1 1/2 tablespoons yellow mustard 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons sweet relish 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper Boil potatoes until tender. Mash and blend potatoes until whipped consistency, let potatoes cool and begin to stiffen. Add all ingredients and blend thoroughly.
CODY CARROLL HOT TAILS, NEW ROADS
Tabasco Sabayon 6 egg yolks 1 cup Tabasco 1/3 cup sugar splash lemon Over double boiler, blend together egg yolks and sugar until it forms a ribbon. Slowly whisk in Tabasco and finish with lemon Charred Green Onion and Sassafras 1/2 cup dehydrated green onions 1 teaspoon dehydrated sassafras leaves (stem removed) Lay flat on sheet pan. Using a blowtorch, torch lightly from 6 inches away until 3/4 of ingredients are charred. Put into food processor and blend until powder. House-Pickled Banana Pepper 8 ounces fresh banana peppers 1 cup white vinegar 1 cup water 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns Slice banana peppers into rings set aside. In heat-proof container, add all other ingredient into sauce pan boil for 5 minutes. Pour mixture through a chinois over peppers; let pickle in cooler for 15 days.
Born and raised in the small farmers town of Batchelor, chef Cody Carroll was always making time to be in the kitchen. His passion for cooking stood out at a young age, while preparing Louisiana game, waterfowl and fish at his family’s hunting and fishing camps. At the age of 18, Carroll enrolled at Louisiana State University. He graduated from LSU in 2007 with his degree in Business; he then applied at the Louisiana Culinary Institute to acquire his degree in Culinary Arts. It was here that he met his future wife and business partner, chef Samantha Carroll. They both graduated from culinary school in January 2010 and just three months later, turned a former drive-through convenience store in New Roads into a rustic South Louisiana-style restaurant. Hot Tails focuses on a mix of Cajun and Creole cuisine with a new interpretation. Their dishes have been referred to as “Hardcore South Louisiana.”
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POTATO ENCRUSTED COBIA ON CAULIFLOWER CELERIAC PUREE, TOMATO JUS AND PANCETTA LARDON
TOMMY DIGIOVANNI
ARNAUD’S,NEW ORLEANS
Raised in New Orleans and surrounded by food, chef Tommy DiGiovanni began working at the age of 12 in his father’s business, The Little Italian Restaurant. At 18, he began formal culinary training and apprenticed at The Fairmont Hotel. In 1988, Andre LeDoux, chef de cuisine, who had worked with DiGiovanni at the Fairmont, offered him the sous chef position at Arnaud’s. DiGiovanni moved to the Royal Orleans Hotel after four years with Arnaud’s to become the executive sous chef. Three years later, he returned back to the site where his professional career took off, The Fairmont Hotel, to become the executive sous chef. In 1997, the chef de cuisine position became available at Arnaud’s Restaurant. Archie Casbarian, proprietor of Arnaud’s at the time, contacted DiGiovanni immediately to join him at Arnaud’s. Chef DiGiovanni’s leadership skills are evident in the success of his many apprentices who are now flourishing in their own right. His innovative contributions are destined to become Creole classics. 42 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Potato Encrusted Cobia 4 5-ounce portions of cobia fillets 3 Russet potato, 70 ct, peeled 4 tablespoons clarified butter oil 1 teaspoon of black pepper 1 teaspoon of kosher salt Salt and pepper the fish fillets. Cut the very tips off of the potatoes and reserve for cauliflower puree. Spin the potatoes on a spiral cutter. Stretch the spun potato without breaking, and wrap the cobia fillets end to end. Place the butter oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Place the filets in the hot skillet and cook until golden brown, and repeat on the other side. Lower heat, as to not burn the potato. Rotate again to cook the fish thoroughly, about 5 minutes on each side. Place the cobia on a hot dinner plate atop a mound of cauliflower puree. Cauliflower and Celeriac Puree 6 ounces cauliflower flowerets 2 ounces celeriac, peeled and diced 2 ounces potato tips reserved from cobia recipe 1 quart water 2 ounces heavy cream kosher salt, to taste In a two-quart saucepan, add water and bring to a boil. Place the rinsed cauliflower, diced celeriac and potato into the water. Cook for 3 minutes until al dente. Strain the vegetable mixture and place into a food processor and puree until smooth. Add heavy cream and salt to taste. Place in the center of the hot dinner plate. Creole Tomato Jus 3 Creole tomatoes, medium diced (Hot House) 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 shallot, minced 3/4 cup water 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon Tabasco, Chipotle Place the oil in a small sauce pot. Over medium heat, add garlic and shallot and sauté for one minute. Add tomatoes and let them sauté about 1 minute. Add half water, salt and pepper. Let cook on medium to low heat for about 10 minutes. Add remaining water and Tabasco and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and strain the jus through a medium grate china cap into a 1-quart insert. Press tomato through the strainer to extract as much jus as possible. Using a rubber spatula, rub the outside of the strainer to add some pulp to the jus. Reserve until ready for use. Pancetta Lardon 3 ounces pancetta, small brunoise Place a small sauté pan over medium heat. Place the pancetta in the pan and let the fat render. When the pancetta is rendered and carmelized, remove with a slotted spoon on a paper towel to drain excess fat. Reserve until ready for use. Potato Crusted Cobia Garnish 12 leek tops, julienned, 1.5 inches in length 2 pints water 1 teaspoon kosher salt In a small saucepan, bring the water to a simmer and add salt. Add leeks and blanch about 30 seconds until bright green and al dente. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels with mushrooms. Reserve and keep warm until ready for use. Sauteed Morel Mushrooms 16 morel mushrooms, fresh or dried 2 tablespoons butter, unsalted 1 tablespoon shallots, minced Cracked black pepper, to taste Kosher salt, to taste Over medium heat, melt the butter and add shallot until semi-translucent. Add washed mushrooms to the pain and cook for about 5 minutes. Reserve and keep warm until ready for use. Assembly Place the hot cauliflower celeriac puree equally onto the center of each serving plate. Place the hot mushrooms around the puree. Partially place the hot cobia fillet atop the puree. Spoon the warm tomato jus around the cobia fillet. Randomly place the pancetta lardon around the cobia fillet. Place a few julienned leeks atop the cobia fillet and serve immediately.
Pecan Crusted Gulf Cobia 6 ounces cobia fillet 2 ounces pecan crust (equal parts ground pecans and bread crumbs) 4 ounces pecan relish 1.5 ounces lemon butter sauce Creole seasoning Seasoned flour Pecan Relish 2 ounces pecans 1 ounces onions, diced 1/2 ounce bell pepper, diced 1/2 ounce celery, diced 1/2 teaspoon garlic, chopped 1 ounce lump crabmeat, shells removed 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning 1 ounce butter Place butter in sauté pan over medium heat. When melted, add onions, peppers, celery and garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add crabmeat, pecans and Creole seasoning and sauté for 1 minute more, stirring frequently. Set aside. In another sauté pan, over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of oil. Lightly coat both sides of the cobia in the seasoned flour, shake off the excess flour. Carefully place the fish in the sauté pan and cook for 2 minutes (until golden brown). Turn fish over and top with pecan crust. Place sauté pan in a pre-heated 375-degree oven and cook until fish starts to flake (about 5 minutes). Place pecan relish on plate and then add the fish over the relish. Spoon lemon butter sauce around the fish. Lemon Butter Sauce 3/4 cup white wine 1 shallot, diced fine 1 teaspoon white peppercorn 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt White pepper 1/4 pound butter, cubed 1/8 cup heavy cream Place white wine, peppercorns and shallot in a small pot and reduce to almost all liquid is evaporated. Add cream and reduce until thick. Turn heat to low and slowly whisk in butter one cube at a time. Remove from heat and add lemon juice. Season with salt and white pepper.
3rd
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PECAN CRUSTED GULF COBIA WITH CRAB AND PECAN RELISH
GUY SOCKRIDER TOMAS BISTRO, NEW ORLEANS
Executive Chef Guy D. Sockrider, C.E., has more than 30 years of experience in the restaurant business. He has directed the kitchens at Muriel’s, the Royal Orleans and the Bourbon House in New Orleans. Previously he was executive chef for the second-largest hotel in Orange County, Calif., which accommodated guests to maximum capacity with 402 rooms. Chef Sockrider supervised approximately 4,400 meals per day from an haute French restaurant, a classical Japanese restaurant, a 24–hour café, large-scale banquets and room service. He has also held the position of executive chef at Top of the Cove in La Jolla, Calif., receiving three toques from Gault Millau and a Top Restaurant Award from Zagat. This venture was a formal, haute French restaurant with a second outlet serving. Now Sockrider has brought his award-winning talent back to New Orleans. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 43
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COOK-OFF CONTESTANTS Braised Vermilion Snapper, Heirloom Baby Tomato, Roasted Garlic Fumet, Dragoncello Sauce & Corn Romesco Toast
Louisiana Flounder Orléanais
judges
Troy Deano 18 STEAK in Baton Rouge
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Kevin Bourg Wine Country Bistro & Bottle Shop in Shreveport
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Manny Augello Jolie’s Louisiana Bistro in Lafayette
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Cornmeal Crusted Croaker, Louisiana Gulf Shrimp, Spring Corn Maque Choux, 1792 Ginger Gastrique
Rien Fertel, Food Writer Chef Tenney Flynn, Executive Chef and Co-Owner of GW Fins New Orleans Errol Laborde, Editor-in-Chief, Louisiana Life Magazine Megan Murphy, Food Writer & Blogger
Panko-Encrusted Cypremort Point Soft-Shell Crabs with Tabasco® Chipotle Aioli set atop Atchafalaya Crawfish Corn Maque Choux
/////// Dean Terrebonne Belle Terre Country Club in Laplace Pan-Seared Red Snapper with a Tabasco®, Cumin & Sherry Red Onion Confit Sauce topped with Louisiana Lump Crab
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Dustie Latiolais Crawfish Town USA in Henderson
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Crispy Smoked Louisiana Soft-Shell Crab, Crawfish Corn Maque Choux, Potato Basil Puree with Tabasco® Sweet & Spicy 5 Pepper Glaze
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Sautéed American Red Snapper with Smoked Oyster-Leek Velouté, Succotash & Louisiana Blue Crab
Austin Kirzner Red Fish Grill in New Orleans
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Brett Duffee Bayona in New Orleans
T
o hear John Gallaspy tell it, the Egyptians who buried King Tut were on to something, though so far he’s not sure of just what. When the Egyptians laid the boy
king to rest in a pyramid, they sprinkled watermelon seeds in his tomb. “Whether this was believed to bring pleasant dreams and unending springtime in the land of the beyond, or whether the decedent was planting when his labors ended, is apparently unknown,” says Gallaspy, 80. But that may be about the only thing Gallaspy hasn’t figured out when it comes to citrullus vulgaris, those summertime treats known as watermelons. And it doesn’t make any difference to whom you talk. You talk to anybody in and around Bogalusa from a convenience store clerk to the mayor and just mention the word “watermelons,” and they’ll just smile and point you over to Gallaspy’s law office “over thar” on Louisiana Avenue. Back when parishes sometimes
combined their offices, Gallaspy served as the assistant district attorney of both Washington and St. Tammany parishes. In effect, that made Gallaspy the district attorney of Washington Parish. But the law and politics and his family aside, Gallaspy will tell you his first love is
A MAN AND HIS
MELONS When it comes to growing the best, the verdict is in for this Bogalusa lawyer.
By GEORGE GURTNER | Photographed by Cheryl Gerber 46 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
the all-Southern all-star watermelon. Just about anybody else in town will say the same thing about him. “I was 10 years old when I planted my first melon,” Gallaspy says as he sits in a chair on his enclosed porch in an upscale section of Bogalusa. “That was in DeSoto Parish, a farming community. That’s where I’m from originally. As kids we’d sit around, and I would hear folks talking about how good their melons were and how good their neighbors’ watermelons were.” Gallaspy’s wife, affectionately known as “Miss Dixie” around town, is outside getting the mail while her husband anxiously peers over chairs and around visitors to see if that all-important letter has come in. “Back in 1942 I was obviously too young to go to war. I was on the farm up in DeSoto Parish. I raised a long row of melons with a horse and a six-inch turning plow. Hauling compost out of the barn, digging each melon hill. It was tough work, but I loved it. When I finally got to
pull the melons I sold some in the family
one week I remember taking a bunch of
frame, and it’s hard to miss the framed
store for one-and-a-half cents per pound
melons to the Methodist church. They
invitation to his 60th birthday back on
– which was high. I think lots of people
cut those melons and divided them. On
Nov. 14, 1992:
bought them out of kindness to me,
Tuesday we have the Rotary Club. They
but still, they bought them. A 20-pound
served up 15 to 20 melons, and we gave
melon would bring 30 cents, and with 30
everybody there one to take home. Then
cents you could get six RC colas. And in
we scattered a few around the neighbor-
1942 if you had six RC colas you were on
hood. It’s all given away. I love seeing
top of the world!”
people enjoy something that I planted.
To be sure, John Gallaspy has been
And I’ll tell you: 50 melons are gone
1932 – A Vintage Year, John Norman Gallaspy was born! 1942 – John’s first Watermelon Patch planted one early morn! Come Celebrate 60 years of our wonderful Watermelon John 50 years of John’s Fabulous watermelons!”
on top of the “watermelon world” for
pretty quickly. My joy is in the planting,
as long as anybody can remember. For
care of them and pulling. (You never say
years, when he entered his watermelons
‘harvesting’ when you’re talking about
Gardner. Whit is a soldier physician who
in the annual melon festival that is linked
watermelons.) My secretary is a good
just returned from Afghanistan; Lee is a
to the Washington Parish Fair (perhaps
sport. We set aside one day each year to
lawyer; and Gardner, a sales representa-
Louisiana’s largest fair), other melon
deliver melons to the banks and various
tive. Gallaspy says, naturally, his boys
contestants all but went up to him, shook
other people we can think of. We just
have worked the melon fields with him,
his hand and congratulated him before
close down the office, and she and I
and he would hope they could carry on
anybody had taken the first melon out of
will take off with a truckload of melons
the family tradition and share in the joy
his or her truck.
and a big butcher knife. And if we find
his avocation has brought him over the
somebody who can’t use more than a half
past eight decades. He praises Miss Dixie
“One year I won seven first-places
“
Gallaspy has three sons: Whit, Lee and
and her patience and tells her to look the
Hey, watermelon man, Bring me one that rattles when you lug it, One that’s red and juicy when you plug it Do you understand, watermelon man?
”
“Watermelon man” lyrics by Herbie Hancock
other way when he comes home after a day in the watermelon patch with his blue jump suit covered in mud. He avers to talk of “steroids,” now being used in the watermelon fields to juice the growth and size of the melons. It should be noted that “steroids,” when used in connection to watermelon-growing, means to run tubes of sugar water into the roots of the young plants. “I’ve never done that, and in my
with different varieties,” Gallaspy says,
a melon, we split it in half. We’ll leave
heart, I sure hope that isn’t true. That’s
his voice suggesting an “aww, shucks
several at each bank all over town.”
just not fun,” he says. “Not the way to do
t’weren’t nuthin” effort. “I was a bit
Gallaspy disappears into another room
things.” Miss Dixie walks in, and Gallaspy spies
hoggish that year. I won a whole bunch
and just as quickly reappears with an
of them and I felt badly about that. They
armload of seed catalogs: “Willhite Seed,
the envelope in her hand from the LSU
bill me as the Watermelon King of the
Inc.” and “Twilley Seeds.” He thumbs
Agricultural Department. He grabs the
fair, but that’s an exaggeration.”
rapidly through the catalogs, stopping
envelope from his wife’s hand with all of
on pages covered with brightly colored
the enthusiasm of a kid in a candy store
selling his watermelons from the back of
images of such summer delights as
and tears it open.
a beat-up pickup truck along Lee Road in
“Summer Sweet Brand, Variety 5244”
St. Tammany Parish. What you will see,
and “Krimson Krunch,” “Cooperstown”
without telling anybody just what it is he
however, are those oval, bright orange
(something tells you there are countless
had figured out before the LSU aggies
“John Gallaspy Watermelon” stickers on
slices of these sold at the Major League
confirmed it. His eyes run down a long list
all his melons making their way through
Baseball Hall of Fame), “Crispy Red,”
of chemicals that are hardly pronounce-
doors up and down Columbia Street and
“Pasha Red,” “Treasure Chest,” “Sorbet,”
able. The letter is a reply to a soil sample
side streets all over Bogalusa.
“Carmen,” “Jamboree,” “Emperor” and
that Gallaspy sent to LSU earlier.
Of course, you won’t see Gallaspy
“I kinda figured that,” Gallaspy says
many more. Another page; another
“Potash!”
just to pay for the fertilizers,” Gallaspy
cornucopia of bright red and brilliant
“Huh?”
says. “But really, that is secondary. I
yellow meaty watermelons. Gallaspy
want people to enjoy one of the greatest
gives a brief history of most of the
says. “That’s what I may have to add to
pleasures on earth – watermelons.”
varieties depicted. He knows the “whos,”
my soil before planting.”
“I usually try to sell enough melons
A typical “Watermelon Run” for John Gallaspy? “We’ll fill up the back of my truck and head out,” he says. “For instance,
“whats,” “whens” and “whys” – a
“That’s a key ingredient,” Gallaspy
Come to think of it, if the Egyptian
veritable genealogical encyclopedia of
growers had added a little potash to the
watermelons.
soil, they may have come away with more
Gallaspy stretches out his large
than just a few seeds from Tut’s tomb. n www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 47
LOUISIANA’S
TOP HOSPITALS – the patients speak
There is only one major source that provides creditable ongoing analysis of hospitals. It is Medicare, which has to be interested because it pays many of the big bills. As part of its informational services, medicare.gov reports on evaluations of hospitals based on queries of patients. For the last two years we have gone through the data and created a one-of-a-kind list that shows the state’s hospitals according to locality. To qualify for our list, at least 50 percent of the patients queried had to give the hospital a top overall ranking of 9 or 10. These are the top general service hospitals as seen through the eyes of those who have experienced them firsthand – the patients. Abbeville Abbeville General Hospital 118 N. Hospital Drive (337) 893-5466 Alexandria Central Louisiana Surgical Hospital 651 N. Bolton Ave. (318) 443-3511
Bastrop Morehouse General Hospital 323 W. Walnut (318) 283-3600 Baton Rouge Baton Rouge General Medical Center 3500 Florida St. (225) 387-7000
The Neuromedical Center Hospital 10105 Park Row Circle (225) 763-9900 Ochsner Medical Center – Baton Rouge 17000 Medical Center Drive (225) 755-4876
Woman’s Hospital 100 Woman’s Way (225) 927-1300
Citizens Medical Center 7939 U.S. Highway 165 S. (318) 649-6106
Bogalusa Washington St. Tammany Regional Medical Center 433 Plaza St. (985) 730-6700
Covington Fairway Medical Center 67252 Industry Lane (985) 801-3010
Christus St. Frances Cabrini Hospital 3300 Masonic Drive (318) 487-1122
Earl K. Long Medical Center 5825 Airline Highway (225) 358-1000
Our Lady of the Lake Regional Medical Center 5000 Hennessy Blvd. (225) 765-6565
Bossier City Willis Knighton Bossier Health Center 2400 Hospital Drive (318) 212-7000
Rapides Regional Medical Center 211 Fourth St. (318) 769-3000
Greater Baton Rouge Surgical Hospital 7855 Howell Place Blvd. (225) 358-4900
Surgical Specialty Center of Baton Rouge 8080 Bluebonnet Blvd. (225) 408-5730
Columbia Caldwell Memorial Hospital 411 Main St. (318) 649-6111
48 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Lakeview Regional Medical Center 95 Judge Tanner Blvd. (985) 867-4447 St. Tammany Parish Hospital 1202 S. Tyler St. (985) 898-4000
Crowley American Legion Hospital 1305 Crowley Rayne Highway (337) 783-3222 Cut Off Lady of the Sea General Hospital 200 W. 134th Place (985) 632-6401 Delhi Richland Parish Hospital – Delhi 407 Cincinnati St. (318) 878-5171 DeRidder Beauregard Memorial Hospital 600 S. Pine St. (337) 462-7100 Farmerville Union General Hospital 901 James Ave. (318) 368-9751 Gonzales St. Elizabeth Hospital 1125 W. Highway 30 (225) 647-5000 Hammond Cypress Pointe Surgical Hospital 42570 S. Airport Road (985) 510-6200 North Oaks Medical Center LLC 15790 Paul Vega MD Drive (985) 345-2700 Homer Homer Memorial Hospital 620 E. College St. (318) 927-2024 Houma Leonard J. Chabert Medical Center 1978 Industrial Blvd. (985) 873-2200 Physicians Medical Center 218 Corporate Drive (985) 853-1390
Terrebonne General Medical Center 8166 Main St. (985) 873-4141
Lafayette Surgical Specialty Hospital 1101 Kaliste Saloom Road (337) 769-4100
Independence Lallie Kemp Medical Center 52579 Highway 21 S. (985) 878-9421
Our Lady of Lourdes Regional Medical Center Inc. 4801 Ambassador Caffery Parkway (337) 470-2000
Jena LaSalle General Hospital 187 Ninth St./Highway 84 W. (318) 992-9200
Park Place Surgical Hospital 901 Wilson St. (337) 237-8119
Jennings Jennings American Legion Hospital 1634 Elton Road (337) 616-7000
The Regional Medical Center of Acadiana 2810 Ambassador Caffery Parkway (337) 981-2949
Jonesboro Jackson Parish Hospital 165 Beech Springs Road (318) 259-4321
University Medical Center 2390 W. Congress (337) 261-6001
Kenner Ochsner Medical Center – Kenner LLC 180 W. Esplanade Ave. (504) 464-8065 Kinder Allen Parish Hospital 108 Sixth Ave. (337) 738-9489 Lacombe Louisiana Heart Hospital 64030 Highway 434 (985) 690-7500 Lafayette Heart Hospital of Lafayette 1105 Kaliste Saloom Road (337) 521-1000 Lafayette General Medical Center 1214 Coolidge Ave. (337) 289-7991 Lafayette General Surgical Hospital 1000 W. Pinhook Road, Suite 100 (337) 289-8095
Lake Charles Christus St. Patrick Hospital 524 Dr. Michael DeBakey St. (337) 436-2511 Lake Charles Memorial Hospital 1701 Oak Park Blvd. (337) 494-3200 W.O. Moss Regional Medical Center 1000 Walters St. (337) 475-8100 Women and Children’s Hospital at Lake Charles 4200 Nelson Road (337) 474-6370 Lake Providence East Carroll Parish Hospital 336 N. Hood St. (318) 559-4023 LaPlace River Parishes Hospital 500 Rue de Sante (985) 652-7000 Leesville Byrd Regional Hospital
Monroe Surgical Hospital 2408 Broadmoor Blvd. (318) 410-0002
1020 Ferittta Blvd. (337) 239-9041 Doctors Hospital at Deer Creek LLC 815 S. 10th St. (337) 392-5088 Luling St. Charles Parish Hospital 1057 Paul Maillard Road (985) 785-6242 Lutcher St. James Parish Hospital 1645 Lutcher Ave. (225) 869-5512 Mamou Savoy Medical Center 801 Poinciana Ave. (337) 468-5261 Mansfield DeSoto Regional Health System 207 Jefferson St. (318) 872-4610 Many Sabine Medical Center 240 Highland Drive (318) 256-1232 Marksville Avoyelles Hospital 4231 Highway 1192 (318) 253-8611 Marrero West Jefferson Medical Center 1101 Medical Center Blvd. (504) 347-5511 Metairie East Jefferson General Hospital 4200 Houma Blvd. (504) 454-4000
P & S Surgical Hospital 312 Grammont St., Suite 101 (318) 388-4040 St. Francis Medical Center 309 Jackson St. (318) 966-4000 Morgan City Teche Regional Medical Center 1125 Marguerite St. (985) 384-2200 Napoleonville Assumption Community Hospital 135 Highway 402 (985) 369-3600 Natchitoches Natchitoches Regional Medical Center 501 Keyser Ave. (318) 214-4200 New Iberia Dauterive Hospital 600 N. Lewis St. (337) 365-7311 Iberia General Hospital and Medical Center 2315 E. Main St. (337) 364-0441 New Orleans Charity Hospital & Medical Center of Louisiana 2021 Perdido St., Floor 4 (504) 903-3000 Ochsner Baptist Medical Center LLC 2700 Napoleon Ave. (504) 899-9311
Minden Minden Medical Center No. 1 Medical Plaza (318) 377-2321 Monroe E.A. Conway Medical Center 4864 Jackson St. (318) 330-7000
Ochsner Medical Center 1516 Jefferson Highway (504) 842-3000 Touro Infirmary 1401 Foucher St. (504) 897-7011
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 49
Tulane Medical Center 1415 Tulane Ave. (504) 988-1900 Oakdale Oakdale Community Hospital 130 N. Hospital Drive (318) 335-3700 Oak Grove West Carroll Memorial Hospital 522 Ross St. (318) 428-3237
Raceland Ochsner St. Anne General Hospital 4608 Highway 1 (985) 537-8377
Shreveport Christus Health Shreveport-Bossier 1 St. Mary Place (318) 681-4500
Rayville Richardson Medical Center 254 Highway 3048 (318) 728-4181
LSU Health Science Center –Shreveport 1541 Kings Highway (318) 675-5058
Ruston Green Clinic Surgical Hospital 1118 Farmerville St. (318) 232-7700
Specialists Hospital Shreveport 1500 Line Ave. (318) 213-3800
Opelousas Opelousas General Health System 539 E. Prudhomme St. (337) 948-3011
Northern Louisiana Medical Center 401 E. Vaughn Ave. (318) 254-2100
Pineville Huey P. Long Medical Center 352 Hospital Blvd. (318) 448-0811
St. Francisville West Feliciana Parish Hospital 5266 Commerce St. (225) 635-3811
50 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Willis Knighton Medical Center 2600 Greenwood Road (318) 212-4000
(985) 649-7070 Slidell Memorial Hospital 1001 Gause Blvd. (985) 643-2200
800 E. Main (337) 363-5684
Southern Surgical Hospital 1700 W. Lindberg Drive (985) 641-0600
West Monroe Glenwood Regional Medical Center 503 McMillan Road (318) 329-4600
Springhill Springhill Medical Center 2001 Doctors Drive (318) 539-1000
Ouachita Community Hospital 1275 Glennwood Drive (318) 332-1339
Sulphur West Calcasieu Cameron Hospital 701 E. Cypress St. (337) 527-4240
Winnfield Winn Parish Medical Center 301 W. Boundary St. (318) 648-3000
Slidell Cypress Pointe Hospital East 989 Robert Blvd. (504) 690-8200
Thibodaux Thibodaux Regional Medical Center 602 N. Acadia Road (985) 447-5500
Ochsner Medical Center – Northshore LLC 100 Medical Center Drive
Ville Platte Mercy Regional Medical Center
Winnsboro Franklin Medical Center 2106 Loop Road (318) 435-9411 Zachary Lane Regional Medical Center 6300 Main St. (225) 658-4000 n
ADVERTISING SECTION
State of Medicine M
edical facilities and offerings continue to expand across the state as Louisiana invests in medicine and the future of its residents. Medical news making its way around the state features new certifications and programs, hospital awards, growing medical centers and the latest technologies. Stay up to date on the clinics and hospitals available to you with the following updates from some of the state’s leaders in medicine. Just as it is important to know the health needs of yourself and your family, it’s important to also know who is here to help. If you have family history of heart disease, smoke or have diabetes, you may be at risk for cardiovascular disease. Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Cardiovascular Institute of the South provides a full range of personalized, cardiovascular care to communities in South Louisiana. The institute has earned an international reputation for providing state-of-the-art cardiovascular care and is known as a world-leader in preventing and treating both cardiovascular and peripheral vascular disease. Beginning as a one-man practice under the leadership of Dr. Craig Walker in Houma in 1983, CIS has grown to become a worldrenowned practice. CIS now employs about 35 physicians and nearly 500 employees in 14 cities throughout South Louisiana. CIS consistently positions itself at the forefront of technology by providing the most up-to-date technology coupled with compassionate care. For more information about CIS, call 1-800-425-2565 or visit Cardio.com. The arrival of the cyclotron at Willis-Knighton Cancer Center’s new Proton Therapy Center is a landmark in the history of the center. This technology reinforces more than a decade of leadership in radiation oncology demonstrated by the center’s radiation therapy department, which is a training site for TomoTherapy, Intensity Modulated Radiation Therapy (IMRT) and High-Dose Rate Brachytherapy. The proton therapy system at Willis-Knighton is the first of its kind in the world. Proton therapy is the most precise form of radiation therapy, killing tumor cells with the least possible damage to healthy issue. The 220-ton cyclotron, the engine of the proton system, was shipped from Belgium and transported to Shreveport, just off Interstate-20. The cyclotron accelerates a proton to two-thirds the speed of light, depositing radiation in the tumor. 52 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
The addition of this technology reinforces the Willis-Knighton Cancer Center’s reputation for world-class cancer care. For information and updates, visit wkhs.com/cancer. Opelousas General Health System (OGHS) has begun the journey of becoming “Baby-Friendly!” While delivering nearly 1,100 babies each year, OGHS now seeks to improve its birthing center as part of the Baby-Friendly Hospital Initiative, a global effort sponsored by the World Health Organization and UNICEF. Mothers who give birth at Baby-Friendly hospitals and birthing centers are more likely to initiate exclusive breastfeeding and are more likely to sustain breastfeeding at six months and one year of age. With 20 years of research to support it, this initiative has become the gold standard in how to care for babies in the hospital. The OGHS Maternal/Child Unit started skin-to-skin in the delivery room in October 2012 and offers rooming-in and exclusive breast milk feeding to families. Visit OGHS at OpelousasGeneral. com and like the hospital on Facebook to stay current on all the exciting changes coming to OGHS in the near future. For more information, call the Lactation Line at 337-594-3804 or the Labor & Delivery unit at 337-948-5148. For 90 years, Our Lady of the Lake (OLOL) in Baton Rouge has served the region and the entire state of Louisiana with innovative and compassionate health care. As the largest hospital in the state, OLOL offers more than 60 medical specialties including a Children’s Hospital, pediatric ER, freestanding ER in Livingston parish, 250-provider physician network and more. Construction on OLOL’s nine-story Heart and Vascular Tower is nearly complete, along with an expanded Trauma Center and Emergency Room. As a major teaching hospital, OLOL continues to invest in a campus of learning to educate and inspire the next generation of health care leaders. OLOL has received many awards and distinctions that speak to the high quality of care that patients depend on. These include Hospital of the Year, Magnet designation for excellence in nursing care, only achieved by five percent of all hospitals; Cycle IV Chest Pain Center for advanced heart care, the highest level; Bariatric Center of Excellence; Advanced Primary Stroke Center; and ranked as No. 1 hospital in the Baton Rouge Metro area by U.S. News & World Report.
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To learn more about how we’re making your health care better, visit www.ololrmc.com. Through a growing health care network, The Franciscan Missionaries of Our Lady Health System provides care to 40 percent of Louisiana citizens. Headquartered in Baton Rouge, the system includes four hospitals – Our Lady of the Lake in Baton Rouge, Our Lady of Lourdes in Lafayette, St. Elizabeth in Gonzales and St. Francis in Monroe, a network of clinics, physicians, senior services, population health management and graduate medical education. Following in the footsteps of our founders, the Franciscan Missionaries of Our Lady, the hospitals and their staff are called to provide high quality care and compassion to all people, especially those most in need. For the past 100 years, the health system continually strives to improve the lives of the people and communities served. This is reflected in one of the system’s newest programs, Healthy Lives. Designed to help employers create a healthier workplace and reduce health care costs, Healthy Lives focuses on wellness, disease prevention and health promotion. As the health system looks to the future of their health care ministry in Louisiana, they chart their course by “going where there is a need.” For more information, visit www.fmolhs.org. The NORTH Institute, Neurological Orthopedic Rehabilitation Total Health, has recently introduced Platelet-Rich Plasma Therapy (PRP) to their medical arsenal. PRP is a progressive, non-surgical healing treatment used in many fields including sports medicine and orthopedics. PRP is injected into the affected region to stimulate and enhance healing—it is your own blood modified in a way to produce mega doses of your body’s own healing “ingredients” that are stored in platelets. Based on current research, soft tissue injuries are the most responsive to PRP, and it has been effective in treating cartilage degeneration such as arthritis as well as labrum tears in joints. The majority of PRP patients find that within three months they can return to pain-free activities. The NORTH’s Dr. Susan Bryant-Snure has been successful in treating patients in the NORTH’s clinic with this new cutting edge technology. Call 985-871-4114 for an appointment at the NORTH Institute and see if this treatment is right for you. Visit NorthInstitute.com. Terrebonne General Medical Center (TGMC), a nationally recognized health care provider in the Bayou Region, has a reputation based on high quality and provides state-of-the-art technology and advanced services. TGMC offers a wide range of specialists and services such as world-class cardiology and cardiovascular surgery, a comprehensive Women’s Center, an outpatient surgery center, diagnostic imaging services, Women’s Imaging and Breast Center, inpatient and outpatient rehabilitation, emergency care services, and Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center at TGMC, nationally accredited by the American College of Surgeons (ACoS) Commission on Cancer (CoC). Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center at TGMC offers a comprehensive cancer care program with a full continuum of cancer care, from prevention and early detection to diagnosis, treatment, recovery and survivorship. Services include chemotherapy, radiation therapy and surgery, as well as patient navigators, clinical trials and free community screenings. The medical center is also accredited by The Joint Commission and is a Pathway’s to Excellence® designated facility.
Proudly, TGMC is an award winning hospital as a result of its employees who are dedicated to their mission of providing exceptional health care with compassion. For more information, visit tgmc.com. For more than half a century, Tulane doctors have provided the best in health care and the latest in medical technology to the people of Louisiana. In addition to providing quality primary care, Tulane doctors are leaders in the diagnosis and treatment of complex illnesses, resulting in numerous advances in clinical outcomes and patient health. They practice medicine across a wide range of disciplines, from organ transplantation and cardiac surgery to neurosurgery and cancer treatment. Tulane doctors have access to leading-edge clinical trials and potentially life-saving new therapies. They demonstrate commitment to the community through various health care services and free educational outreach programs and health screenings. Find your Tulane doctor by calling 800-988-5800 or 504-988-5800, or visit tulanedoctors.com. Patients benefit from a full range of neurosurgical services at the Spine Center of Excellence of Thibodaux Regional, the only full-service program in the region to treat back and neck pain. The Center offers three experienced spine surgeons, and a team of specialists and physicians who create a comprehensive, collaborative, patientcentered approach to caring for people with neck or back pain. “The doctors and spine surgeons focus on each patient by individually reviewing every case to determine the best course of action, whether that’s surgical or non-surgical,” says Billy Naquin, MBA, PT, OCS, Director of the Center. “The team also provides an ongoing management program complete with a Nurse Navigator.” The Spine Center of Excellence of Thibodaux Regional gives patients the best chance to solve back and neck pain. Thibodaux Regional was recently named a Blue Distinction Center+ in Spine Surgery by Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana. For more information call the Spine Center of Excellence of Thibodaux Regional at 985-493-4501. Woman’s Hospital is one of the largest women’s specialty hospitals in the U.S. A private, nonprofit organization, it is consistently recognized for its innovative women and infant programs. As the 18th largest delivery service in the nation, more than 300,000 babies have been born in the hospital’s 44-year history. Performing more than 6,700 surgeries, 44,000 mammograms and 87,000 pap tests annually, Woman’s mission is to improve the health of women and infants. The organization consistently addresses some of the critical health care issues facing the community by caring for a significant percentage of Louisiana’s Medicaid and indigent patients. Many of the following programs are only available at Woman’s: • Level III Regional Referral NICU • Care for Victims of Sexual Assault • Neurodevelopmental Clinic • Mother-to-Child HIV Transmission Prevention Program • Regional Breast Cancer Outreach and Mobile Mammography Coach • Post-Treatment Cancer Care and Support • Metabolic Health Clinic • Lactation Program Woman’s commitment to exceptional care is evident as it was the first hospital in Baton Rouge to achieve Nursing Magnet status and is the region’s only Breast Imaging Center of Excellence. For more information, visit Womans.org. • www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 53
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SIGNATURE DISHES Food is king in Louisiana, and what better time than summer to relax in the air conditioning of your kitchen, have a glass of wine or iced tea, and whip up a delectable treat for friends and family? Several of the state’s favorite brands, restaurateurs and chefs have your needs covered, from appetizers and desserts to filling Creole or Italian entrees. Not in the mood to cook? Head on over to one of the following restaurants and enjoy each creation from an experienced culinary expert. Taste your way across the state, and enjoy fresh pizza and pasta in Bossier City, buttery BBQ Shrimp in Baton Rouge and fantastic flounder in New Orleans. Café Adelaide and The Swizzle Stick Bar at Loews New Orleans Hotel are shaking up the New Orleans dining scene, dishing up a playful take on Creole cuisine with a side order of Big Easy bacchanalia served by the gracious hands of The Commander’s Family of Restaurants’ Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan. Be sure to try Café Adelaide’s signature dish, The Shrimp & Tasso Corndogs, battered and smothered in a hot sauce beurre blanc. Visit CafeAdelaide.com and LoewsNewOrleans.com for info and reservations. Last summer Baton Rouge welcomed Louisiana’s newest destination for exciting gaming, delicious cuisine and thrilling nightlife at L’Auberge Casino & Hotel Baton Rouge. Embracing local culture and cuisine, L’Auberge Baton Rouge offers a genuine Louisiana experience with its acclaimed steakhouse, 18 STEAK. A homegrown Louisiana chef with more than 17 years of culinary management experience, Chef Troy Deano gives 18 STEAK diners quality Southern flavor and service. Favorites at 18 STEAK include Deano’s Classic & Signature hand-cut steaks as well as fresh Louisiana seafood specialties such as Wood Grilled Barbecue Shrimp. With a history dating back as far as 1888, Rex Fine Foods is no doubt the King of Spices in Louisiana and beyond. Originally the New Orleans Import Company, Rex is known for selecting and importing the finest spices for Louisiana kitchens and some of the world’s most demanding chefs. The first to offer a fully seasoned fish fry and an authentic crab boil, Rex is a staple in kitchens everywhere. For information, store locators and recipes such as the classic BBQ Shrimp, visit RexFoods.com. In 1972, Tony Chachere began sharing his homemade seasoning blend, and over the last few decades, his name has become synonymous with creole cooking. From his signature spices to marinades and more, Tony Chachere’s adds genuine creole flavor to any
dish. Replace the boring condiments in your fridge with any of Tony’s four new sauces: Creole Sauce, Spicy-Sweet, Zesty and Bar-B-Que. Add zing to your seafood or zest to your roast beef—these sauces are flavor-packed, guaranteed. Visit tonychachere.com. Bringing their Sicilian heritage to Shreveport/ Bossier City, brothers Joseph and Steven Filippazzo offer more than 30 years of experience in the pizza business with Pietro’s Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen, located in the Louisiana Boardwalk along the Red River. Every morning, Pietro’s dough is made fresh on site. They toss it by hand and bake each pizza using a stone oven. Enjoy the aroma of fresh baked pizza, breads, pastries and pasta specialties as you enter Pietro’s warm and inviting atmosphere. Visit the Louisiana Boardwalk and Pietro’s Pizza online at LouisianaBoardwalk.com and Pietros.net. A new addition to the New Orleans dining scene, Restaurant R’evolution is the first joint venture of award-winning chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto. Revolutionizing more than 6,000 square feet of streetlevel space in the Royal Sonesta and overlooking charming Bienville Street in the French Quarter, this 200-seat restaurant offers modern, imaginative reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine with dishes such as their Stuffed Flounder Napoleon. For information and reservations, visit revolutionnola.com or call 504-553-2277. Tallulah Crafted Food and Wine Bar, the casual upscale restaurant housed within the Renaissance Baton Rouge Hotel, offers a captivating environment and cuisine that engages your senses and arouses curiosity. Executive Chef Andy Papson serves notable cuisine from around Louisiana, while featuring housecrafted menu items that interpret local flavors in fresh and unique ways. From savory dishes such as Braised Osso Buco or the Pan Fried Sea Bass Filet to the Traditional White Chocolate Bread Pudding, Tallulah’s distinguished menu brings a world of flavor to Louisiana’s capital. Visit tallulahrestaurant.com. With a focus on “Louisiana’s Best,” Rouses supermarkets’ team of chefs honed their skills at some of the best restaurants on the Gulf Coast. Led by Rouses executive chef and deli/food service director Louis “Jack” Treuting, Rouses chefs create the recipes for Rouses’ signature prepared foods. Rouses’ deliciously creamy Shrimp and Grits has been a favorite at Taste of the Town, Rhythms of the River and the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience. For more on Rouses, visit rouses.com.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 55
ADVERTISING SECTION advertising section
L’Auberge Casino & Hotel’s 18 Wood Grilled Barbecue Shrimp 3 each U-6 ct. shrimp. Peeled and de-veined 6 each lobster dumplings 4 ounces BBQ base (recipe below) 4 ounces heavy cream 2 ounces butter 1 ounce Creole mustard Combine all ingredients in a sauté pan and let boil until shrimp are fully cooked. Remove shrimp from pan and place on serving dish. Continue to reduce sauce until thickened and the color resembles melted milk chocolate. Pour sauce over shrimp and serve with focaccia loaf. Shrimp BBQ Base
2 each whole clove
1 ounce butter
½ each bay leaf
2 tablespoons chives
1 lemon juiced
1 count egg whites
2 cups oyster liquor
Sautee the shrimp heads in olive oil until
2 cups shrimp heads
bright red. Add all remaining ingredients into
¼ cup olive oil
pot and simmer. Reduce by half and drain
except chives, mix til becomes a paste.
1 cup Worcestershire sauce
through chinois.
Fold in chives after removal from the
salt, to taste Add all ingredients to food processor
processor. Have a lightly boiling pot of water
1 cup Abita Amber 3 tablespoons cracked black pepper
Lobster Dumpling
on the stove, add dumplings to the water.
3 tablespoons Creole seasoning
8 ounces Peeled shrimp
(Dumplings will float as they are ready)
(recipe below)
8 ounces Lobster tail
Remove and let cool. Pietro’s White Pizza with Fresh Spinach 22 ounces dough ball 10 ounces ricotta sauce (ricotta cheese, milk, white pepper & salt) 1 ounces garlic oil (EVOO and fresh sliced garlic) 11 ounces fresh shredded mounceszarella cheese 6 ounces sauteed fresh spinach mix (fresh Cello spinach, EVOO, fresh sliced garlic, & salt) Evenly spread 1 ounce of garlic oil with basting brush on the pre-stretched dough ball (22 ounces). Pour 8 ounces of ricotta sauce on the center of the dough. Distribute the sauce across the dough, pressing gently and moving the ladle in a circular motion. Spread 6 ounces of sautéed fresh spinach mix, evenly overlapping the sauce. Evenly spread 11 ounces of mounceszarella cheese over the other ingredients Bake at 550 degrees for 10 minutes, rotating pizza halfway.
56 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
ADVERTISINGsection SECTION advertising
4 ounces of abita beer
In separate pots, reduce cream and hot
2 eggs
sauce by half. Add together and continue
2 ounces small dice tasso
reducing by half. Whisk in room temperature
¼ teaspoons of baking powder
butter and keep hot.
In a bowl whisk eggs, add buttermilk and beer. Mix all dry
Pepper Jelly
ingredients together in a separate
1 cup corn syrup
bowl. Slowly mix dry ingredients to
1 cup distilled white vinegar
wet. If mixture is too thick, add more
1 ounces green bell pepper (brunoise)
beer.
1 ounces yellow bell pepper (brunoise) 1 ounces red bell pepper (brunoise)
10 10/15 shrimp peeled
½ teaspoons crushed pepper flakes
with tail intact
¼ teaspoons fresh ground black pepper corns
10 bamboo skewers, 6 inches Loews Shrimp and Tasso Corndogs 2 cups cornmeal 1 cup flour 1 cup corn flour 1 teaspoons baking soda ½ teaspoons salt 2 ounces sugar 1½ cups buttermilk
Season shrimp with salt and pepper. Skewer shrimp through tail end. Dip
In a pot, reduce corn syrup and vinegar by half. To order add brunoise bell peppers, pepper flakes and black pepper.
in corn dog batter and deep fry until golden brown.
To plate
Hot Sauce Beurre Blanc
fried corndogs in the hot sauce buerre blanc,
1 cup heavy whipping cream
place on top of pepper jelly. Garnish with
1 pint reduced Crystal hot sauce
frisee.
Spread pepper jelly on bottom of plate. Dip
4 ounces unsalted butter
Serves 50 hors d’oeuvres or 25 appetizers.
Rouses Shrimp & Grits 1 teaspoon Rouses salt 1 cup stone ground grits 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup mascarpone cheese 2 tablespoons olive oil Rouses salt Rouses pepper Creole Spices (Tony Chachere’s, Zatarain’s or your favorite) 30 16/20 Louisiana shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/3 cup Rouses andouille sausage, minced 1 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoons minced garlic 1 tablespoons minced shallot 1 tablespoons finely chopped Spanish piquillo peppers (canned) 4 cups shrimp stock (homemade or store-bought) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 cups peeled, seeded, very finely chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoons freshly chopped chives
Prepare grits with 4 cups of salted water.
shallot, and piquillo peppers to skillet. Sauté
When grits are cooked, stir in butter and
for 2 minutes. Add shrimp stock and bring
mascarpone and remove from stove. Cover
liquid to a simmer. Mount in butter and
with plastic wrap.
cook until sauce is thickened. Add shrimp
Season shrimp with salt, pepper and
back to sauce, stir in lemon juice, tomatoes
Creole seasonings. Heat olive oil in a large
and chives. Simmer for 2 minutes. Serve
pan. Add shrimp and sauté until they just
immediately over grits.
start to brown. Remove shrimp from pan and set aside. Add sausage, thyme, garlic, www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 57
ADVERTISING SECTION advertising section
Royal Sonesta’s Stuffed Flounder Napoleon 1¼ pounds Flounder Fillet ¾ pounds Crawfish Butter Mousse 1 pinch of Salt 1 pinch of Pepper 1 pinch of Seafood Magic Seasoning 2 tablespoons of butter (enough to coat) Line a shallow 1/3 pan with plastic wrap, leaving 4 inches of extra wrap around the edges. Lay down a layer of flounder fillet on the bottom of the pan and season with salt, pepper, and Seafood Magic. Spread a layer of the mousse ½-inch thick evenly over the fish and top with another layer of seasoned fish. Repeat the layering process until there are 3 layers of fish and 2 of mousse, with the top layer being fish. Wrap the top with the remaining plastic wrap, weight it down with another pan filled with something heavy like a zipper bag of water. Refrigerate overnight. Remove from the pan and wrap tightly with another layer of plastic wrap. Using a very sharp knife, trim the edges square and then wrap with plastic again. Slice the terrine at about 1¼-inch intervals, being very gentle and taking care not to separate fish from mousse. Remove all plastic wrap from each piece. Fold a piece of foil into about 4 layers, the height of the Napoleon. Spray the shiny side of the foil with non-spray and wrap the Napoleon tightly, holding its shape. When ready to serve, place on greased strip of parchment and top with a nob of butter. Roast in 375 degree oven to an internal temperature of 140 degrees. Be very gentle when removing from the foil.
58 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Hatch Chile’s BBQ Shrimp
Melt butter in a large roasting pan, remove from heat.
1 stick (½ cup) butter
Add dried thyme, Cajun Trinity with
1 tablespoon REX dried thyme
garlic, Creole seasoning, cayenne
2 tablespoons REX Cajun Trinity
pepper, Worcestershire sauce, garlic,
with Garlic
tomato paste, beer and lemon slices.
1 to 2 tablespoons REX Creole
Add shrimp and stir to cover with
seasoning
sauce. Allow to sit in sauce 20 to 30
2 to 3 teaspoon REX cayenne
minutes prior to broiling. Place about
pepper (to taste)
6 inches under a preheated broiler.
1 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
Cook 5 to 8 minutes, then use a
2 cloves garlic, minced
spatula to flip shrimp over. Cook an
2 tablespoons tomato paste
additional 5 to 8 minutes until shrimp
1 (12 ounces) can or bottle of beer
is cooked, but not overdone. Spoon
1 lemon, sliced (optional)
into large, shallow bowls. Serve with
Fresh local shrimp (3 pounds head
lots of crusty French bread to soak up
on or 2 pounds headless shrimp)
all the great juices
ADVERTISINGsection SECTION advertising
Day 3
Tony’s Cajun Stuffed Shrimp
Prepare the Braising Liquid ½ cup oil
3 pounds shrimp
5 onions, chopped
1 cup olive oil
5 carrots, chopped
5 tablespoons lemon juice
1 bunch celery, chopped
3 tablespoons Tony Chacheres Original
3 pounds tomato paste
Creole Seasoning
1 bottle red wine
2 tablespoons Parsley
2 sprigs rosemary, fresh
½ cup olive oil
5 sprigs thyme, fresh
½ cup margarine
5 ea bay leaves
1 cup french bread crumbs
1 cup black peppercorns, whole
¼ cup cheese (Mouncesarella)
¼ cup salt
½ cup parmesan
3 gallons veal or beef stock
½ cup chopped green onion ½ cup tasso
Method
½ cup parsley
Heat the oil in a roasting pan and add
½ teaspoons garlic powder
Renaissance Baton Rouge Hotel’s
the onions, carrots, and celery. Sauté the
Peel shrimp, butterfly, leave on tails.
Vanilla Bean Braised Short Ribs
vegetables until they are very soft and
In a bowl, mix marinade of olive oil,
caramelized. Next, add the tomato paste
lemon juice, Tony Chachere’s Original
Day 1
and continue to cook until the tomato paste
Creole Seasoning, and parsley.
4 Racks Short Ribs, Whole with Bone In
starts to caramelize. Immediately add the
Marinate shrimp 1 hour at room
red wine and deglaze the pan, being sure to
temperature (or up to 24 hours in
Dry Rub
scrape the bottom. Continue cooking until
refrigerator).
1 cup Old Bay Seasoning
the wine has reduced and the vegetable
½ cup Salt
mixture is thickened. Next add the
½ cup Black Pepper
remaining ingredients and mix well. Next
1 cup Garlic Powder
add the vanilla bean/brown sugar mix and
1 cup Onion Powder
honey vanilla mix. Bring to a simmer and
¼ cup Dried Tarragon
remove from the heat.
Remove shrimp from marinade. In another bowl, mix cup olive oil and next 8 ingredients; stuff shrimp Place shrimp on broiler pan and broil until browned, about 4 minutes. Garnish with parsley and lemon twist. •
1 cup Creole Seasoning Score ¼-inch thick diamonds on the fat side of short ribs.
Braising the Ribs Pre heat oven to 325 degrees.
Mix together all of the dry ingredients
Place the short ribs in a roasting pan
and rub over the short ribs very generously.
and pour the braising liquid over the short
Let the seasoned short ribs sit overnight
ribs until the ribs are completely covered.
in refrigerator.
If there is any liquid leftover, save and set aside. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and
12 Vanilla Beans
then cover with foil. Place in the oven and
2 pounds Brown Sugar
roast for 5 to 6 hours or until the bones
12 ounces Honey
slide out easily and the meat is fork tender.
Cut and scrape out the vanilla beans
Remove the short ribs from the liquid
and mix the seeds with the brown sugar.
and set aside. Next portion the ribs to the
Be sure to mix well, Cover and set aside.
desired size and set back in the roasting
Do not refrigerate. Next Take the cleaned
pan. Next, strain the braising liquid into a
vanilla beans and steep them in the honey.
large enough container and set aside until
Cover and set aside. Do not refrigerate.
all of the fat/oil rises to the top. Remove the
Day 2
oil layer from the liquid and discard. Next,
Take the short ribs out and mark them on a
Pour the braising liquid back over the ribs
very hot grill until the ribs look blackened.
and keep warm. If not using right away,
Let the ribs cool and place them back into the refrigerator overnight.
cool down the ribs and put in the cooler and reheat when needed.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 59
60 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
ADVERTISING SECTION
Mississippi
Travel W
ith July and August upon us, it’s safe to say vacation season has arrived. Take a short drive east, and explore a region with a variety of landscapes, authentic southern hospitality, unique history and culture. Mississippi is nearly 50,000 square miles of adventure ready for the taking. Rich in music, luscious state parks, beautiful waterways and decadent BBQ, there are endless reasons to travel into the Magnolia State. Enjoy Louisiana’s rather lengthy neighbor and have the summer vacation you won’t soon forget. The summer of 2013 will be known as the Summer of Music in nearby Jackson, Miss. With overwhelming popularity, six Grammy Awards and the 2012 Kennedy Center Honors, premiere artist Buddy Guy will headline the Jackson Rhythm and Blues Pre-Festival Concert at the Mississippi Coliseum on Friday, July 19. Joining Buddy Guy will be Rock and Roll Hall of Famer Percy Sledge performing a number of his greatest hits. Kicking off the evening will be Canadian International artist Shakura S’Aida and Grammy nominated and Blues Music Award Winner Ruthie Foster. The Jackson Rhythm and Blues Festival premieres on the grounds of the Mississippi Agriculture and Forestry Museum on Aug. 16th and 17th. Headlining the event is six-time Grammy Award Winner Dr. John and the Nite Trippers and the hit-making music band Mint Condition. The two-day festival will feature more than 30 of the best rhythm and blues artists in the Southeast. For more information, including a complete lineup, visit JacksonRhythmandBluesFestival.com, facebook.com/ JxnBluesFest and @JxnBluesFest on Twitter. For more information on Jackson, go to VisitJackson.com or call 601-960-1891. It takes a delicate touch to create culinary masterpieces, patience to weave a perfect basket and vision to transform a lump of clay into a piece of graceful pottery. These and more have helped Ridgeland, Miss., grow from a small artists’ colony to a premier shopping destination with more than 140 restaurants and quality accommodations. The city is home to a variety of attractions including the Natchez Trace Parkway, a 444-mile, All-American Road and National Scenic Byway, with 157 types of birds, state parks,
riding trails, historic interpretations, American-Indian artifacts and cultural opportunities; the Mississippi Craft Center, Mississippi’s attraction of the year, showcasing traditional and contemporary crafts; and the 33,000-acre Ross Barnett Reservoir with parks, campgrounds, boating, fishing, swimming, trails, pavilions and disc golf. Shop at art galleries, specialty shopping venues, boutiques and antique stores. Before visiting, explore VisitRidgeland.com to view special events and destinations. •
6 Time Grammy Winner Dr. John
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 61
around louisiana Regional Reports from across the state compiled and edited by jeanne frois
northern WORTH WATCHING ROCK OF AGES IN CARMEL
a quiet spot set apart for
Looking like a miniature
with their God. Filled with
Gothic cathedral atop a
beautiful hand-painted
wooded hill, the tiny and
tapestries of celestial blue
beautiful Rock Chapel graces
created by Fathers Angelus
DeSoto Parish in a town
Ohlenforst and Marian
once called Bayou Pierre.
Nyssen on the ceiling and
The town was re-christened
walls, it rose on a hill filled
Carmel (garden of God) by a
with hardwood trees,
Carmelite priest; Pere Pierre
perched over ancient Bayou
(Father Anastasius Peter), a
Loup (Wolf) that had to be
native of Austria-Hungary
crossed by stepping stones
who came to Louisiana from
placed in the water to reach
Texas in 1886 to establish
the chapel.
a monastery in what was
meditation and reflections
Life was not easy for
a Mansfield-based pastor,
Church, began a second
began renovation of the
restoration and initiated the
still pretty untamed land in
these men in the Louisiana
chapel. Local artist Eugenia
annual service held there
northern Louisiana. In the
frontier. Many were afflicted
Manning recreated the
on the June feast of Corpus
heavily wooded area, over
with starvation, epidemics
original tapestry patterns
Christi (Body of Christ). No
the course of the next 10
and early deaths. Most of
of Fathers Nyssen and
longer left unlocked, the
years, the padre not only
them were German and
Ohlenforst. The stepping
chapel is protected by a
established a monastery,
are buried near their Rock
stones in Bayou Loup were
locked iron gate. Filled with
but also a convent and a
Chapel. In 1896, Father Peter
replaced by a wooden
murals and frescoes on the
boys’ school, and he and
was recalled to Europe,
bridge. An emblem rose
walls, it lies quietly like a holy
his holy men also built the
and eventually both the
over the front door with
gem amid a spot blessed with
Rock Chapel in 1891. The
convent and monastery
the words, “Zelo Zelatus
natural beauty. It remains
monastery itself was built
closed. In 1904, a garbage
Sum Pro Domino Deo
one of the most treasured
of rocks, mud and logs;
fire developed unexpectedly
Exercituum,” meaning “With
tourist attractions in DeSoto
an old slave-constructed
into a roaring conflagration
zeal have I been zealous for
Parish, well worth a trip for a
home called the Dick Cole
that engulfed the deserted
the Lord God of hosts.”
day of spiritual rejuvenation.
House became the convent.
monastery and convent
According to the story,
The Rock Chapel was left
To get there: Exit 17B/I-49;
buildings. But the little
open for tourists and other
at Exit 177/509, head south to
“The Garden of God” by Liz
Rock Chapel, protected by
seekers of peace. Soon it also
Carmel and turn left at Carmel
Chrysler, the large, dark
the Bayou Loup, survived.
became the target of vandals;
Baptist Church. Stop at Lafitte
brown rocks tinged with
Eventually, the abandoned
initials were carved into the
Custom Mill for the key to the
vermilion used to construct
chapel was overtaken by
original altar, windows were
Chapel and proceed 1 mile
the chapel were carried
brambles and disrepair
broken, and Satanic emblems
further to the cemetery and
by hand by the monks
and remained forgotten
were painted on the walls.
church – an arch indicates
themselves to the hill; it
until 56 years later when
Father Leger Tremblay,
the quarter-mile walk to the
was a labor of love to build
Father William Kwaaitall,
a pastor of St. Joseph’s
Rock Chapel.
62 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
n
around louisiana
central
Shrimp and corn grits from Fresh Catch Bistreaux
FORK IN THE ROAD YOU SAY BISTRO, I SAY BISTREAUX
two divergent, but delicious dining experiences await you in the area:
Whenever I remember many visits to relatives in Central
Fresh Catch Bistreaux in Marksville
Louisiana, I can’t recall ever
childhood (and adulthood)
jumbo lump crabmeat in
a stroke of genius, chicken
their signature blackened
and dumplings as a meal
crawfish sauce. Rich to the
starter. The side orders could
point of naughtiness, the Sir
almost double as entrees.
Steak-a-Lot sandwich is a
Crawfish Avoyelles is a
wonder; imagine a six-ounce
mélange of baked mudbug
sirloin steak grilled to your
tails, mushrooms, sweet corn
specifications lying on a
and spicy Cajun rice topped
sourdough bun, then layered
with a melted cheese blend,
with caramelized onions and
all flowing together in a river
pepper jack cheese.
of flavors that enhance one
Fresh Catch Bistreaux, 109
another. For entrees, you can
Tunica Drive East, Marksville,
have your fresh fish of the
71351, (318) 253-6543.
day, or a catfish fillet, either pan-sautéed with butter pecan sauce, charbroiled and
This laid-back eatery on
Bistro on the Bayou in Alexandria
eating a bad meal, whether
Tunica Highway has a cozy
More formal than the
sauce or blackened with the
it was backbone stew; the
bar with a fine reputation and
Marksville restaurant, yet
innovative pesto beurre blanc.
incomparable homemade
a good selection of wines.
managing to retain an
You can take these dishes
sausage; wild duck simmered
Keeping in tandem with the
atmosphere that’s warmly
a step further by choosing
in onion over rice; or the
culinary spirit of Avoyelles,
elegant and very Louisiana,
either “Add Bayou Style” (a
powdered sugar-dusted,
the food is prepared with the
Bistro on the Bayou has
fried Louisiana soft-shell crab
pan-fried, made-from-scratch
freshest ingredients daily.
received accolades from the
in lemon butter sauce and
bread dough that reminded
For appetizers, it’s hard to
likes of the New Orleans
pecans baked in honey tops
me of beignets at home in
beat the delicious pecan-
Times-Picayune newspaper,
the fish of your choice) or
New Orleans. Coffee here
crusted fried crab cakes
Southern Living magazine
“Add England Style” (topped
was pretty spectacular as
lying in a pool of creamy
and Chef John Folse. Called
with fresh Louisiana crabmeat
well; in the days before
blackened crawfish sauce.
one of the finest dining
soaking up the tangy pesto
acid rain, my aunt dripped
The Bistreaux Bisque is a
places in Louisiana, its
beurre blanc). Pull out all the
it with rainwater from a
multi-layered bowl filled with
innovative appetizer menu
stops by ordering the Maine
cistern, and the delicious cup
a delectable combination of
offers tempura-fried green
lobster over macaroni and
of Community she always
lump crabmeat and corn.
beans with chipotle laced
cheese. Sweet lobster claw
poured for me had a tiny
For entrees on the lighter
sour cream and a Japanese-
and knuckle are laid across
green ceramic frog sitting
side, sesame ginger tuna
Louisiana blend of flavors
the macaroni that’s made
at the bottom; I loved the
steak is a delicious fish dish
in the dipping sauce; the
with fresh-grated cheeses
sight of him when my cup
that’s first marinated in a
scrumptious, fresh Louisiana
to which has been given
was drained. It was an area
sesame ginger, grilled and
crabmeat enchilada with a
a spicy Louisiana kick of
that had few fine restaurants.
topped with a wonderful
spicy sauce and sweet corn
flavor that enervates the
In recent years, however,
peanut sauce. Fried eggplant
salsa, both homemade, are
velvety, creamy texture and
Central Louisiana can boast
medallions comprise eggplant
also served with the chipotle
complements the lobster.
some really fine eateries.
Napoleon. The crisp fried
sour cream; for simple
Lying approximately 30
eggplant is topped with the
down-home comfort food
Chappie James Avenue,
miles away from each other,
combined divine flavors of
pleasure, they also offer, as
Alexandria, (318) 445-7574.
served with a lemony butter
Bistro on the Bayou, 1321 n
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 63
around louisiana
cajun PROFILE DUCKS IN A ROW IN ERATH Erath can now boast it has
from the Mississippi Flyway
propelled it then to Best in
that for the moment you have
had his day in the sun.
Show, which pitted LeBlanc’s
been richly blessed. They
wood duck against all levels.
paddle in our marshes, take
“I was happy to win,” said
a world champion as one of
LeBlanc, who had the unique
LeBlanc, a member of a
up residence in our rice fields
its denizens. Grant LeBlanc,
experience of having his own
local wood carvers group
and waddle in a kind of house
at age 70, competed in the
ducks compete against each
known as the Acadia Wood
frau way that’s endearing.
prestigious 43rd annual
other in the same category,
Carvers Guild, is based in a
One wouldn’t think of them
Ward World Championship
i.e., puddle ducks. After
shop in front of Abbeville
as waterfowl geniuses, but
Wildfowl Carving
taking first place in their
resident Jeffrey Meaux,
science is showing us that
Competition for the first
own species groups (wood
where the gentlemen of the
these little duckies have a
time in his life. According
ducks and pintails), then both
group congregate to engage
phenomenal gift.
to Avoyelles Today, he not
advancing to puddle ducks,
in the contemplative art of
While migrating, ducks
only competed, but
carving. According
and geese travel pathways
also took first place
to LeBlanc, he has
flown by their ancestors
in two different
no plans to leave the
since ancient times. Leaving
divisions, thus
group that has taught
their breeding grounds to
elevating him to
him so much.
find wintering shelter in
the status of World
Meanwhile, back
Champion.
warm Southern regions
at the Best in Show
like Louisiana, they use a
Competition, LeBlanc’s
navigation system that is
four decades,
duck soared to no
only now just beginning to
the Ward World
further heights. The
be understood. Using the
Championship has
Best in Show judges
positions of the sun, moon,
drawn more than a
explained that his duck
stars, mountains and other
thousand wildfowl
did not place because
geographical landmarks
artists from an
there was not enough
to navigate, these birds
international array
white paint on a
are able see the magnetic
of locales such as
feather, and a wing was
fields of earth to assist
China, Japan, the
a quarter-inch shy of
their migration, studies
United Kingdom,
being the exact length it
show. The ducks perceive
Canada and Russia
should have been.
the magnetic field or its
For nearly
to its competition
LeBlanc stated that
direction as either a light
in Ocean City, Md.
he had gleaned a lot of
or dark spot on its own
The organization
invaluable knowledge
field of vision that changes
also boasts the
from participating in
with each head motion.
largest collection of
the competition and
Scientists have suspected
both decorative and
from witnessing other
for some time that the eyes
antique decoys in
artists carve their own
of migratory birds hold
the Ward Museum,
works.
molecules that sense the
considered one of
earth’s magnetic fields, while German researchers
first place while the pintail
LOUISIANA GROWN DUCK MAGNETISM
regional art, community
was eliminated for failure
Ducks love Louisiana. And
same molecules are linked
activities and an educational
to float properly. His wood
to experience a flock of
to an area of the fowl’s
conference that enhances the
duck then advanced to the
countless migrating ducks
brain that processes
artist’s acumen for carving.
Division Level competition
flying over you in season,
visual information. Taken
There in what is known as the
against other intermediates.
filling the air with the distant
together, it has the same
Atlantic Flyway, the resident
The second-place showing
sound of honks, is to know
effect as a compass. n
the treasures of Maryland’s
LeBlanc’s wood duck took
Eastern Shore. It fosters
64 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
have established these
around louisiana
baton rouge/ plantation country a joint effort between the
to the pound find porches of
Sheriff’s Office and the
their own. More volunteers
parish police jury, was
are needed to assist with
officially dedicated and will
various duties that also include
celebrate its first birthday
counseling would-be parents.
this August. Miraculous
The shelter also offers a foster
reunions between pets and
program on a volunteer
their two-footed brethren
basis – foster parents are
have occurred since.
needed for the infant needs
Particularly moving is the
of kittens and puppies too
story of a chocolate Labrador
young to stay at a pound,
named Hershey who was
animals who have either
found in terrible shape,
health or behavior issues or
suffering from heartworms,
when the pound simply just
malnutrition and an old
gets overcrowded. Adoption
gunshot wound. Through the
opportunities are conducted
kindness of Dr. Glenn Dupree,
each Tuesday, Thursday and
a local veterinarian, who
Saturday from 9 a.m. until
donated a microchip scanner
2 p.m. The volunteers also
to the pound, Hershey’s
dress the potential adoptees in
owners were located. These
brightly colored vests that say,
residents of Baker, who had
“Adopt Me,” and take them
lost Hershey three years ago,
to public gatherings, rodeos
CAUSE TO CELEBRATE FROM POUND TO PORCH IN ST. FRANCISVILLE
them to his makeshift pound
returned immediately from
and markets on special days.
there at the jail, doing his
a vacation in Oklahoma to
In less than a year, nearly 150
best to find good homes for
find Hershey just as ecstatic
adoptions have taken place,
Anne Butler wrote that
the four-legged orphans.
as they were to be reunited.
one of which was a horse.
“every Southern porch needs
Described as the “roughest
There wasn’t a dry eye at the
a dog.” According to Butler,
and toughest there was,”
pound that day.
on www.stfrancisvillefestivals.
by Sheriff Austin Daniels,
com, pound life for stray
Bryant’s heart was as big
wild around the streets of St.
or neutered and vaccinated.
cats and pooches in West
as his body when it came to
Francisville, causing mayhem
The shelter’s website has a
Feliciana was “ruff” indeed
caring for animals.
for a film crew making a
photo gallery of what it calls
movie. He was taken to the
their “current residents” that
prior to 2012 – the poor
The community joined
A Husky was running
Before the pets are adopted they are first checked by the vet, spayed
furry vagabonds were kept
together in generous support
shelter, and the microchip
you can visit if your pet goes
in pens attached to the local
and enthusiasm to ease
helped identify his family
missing. The shelter also tries
hoosegow. There was a small
the plight of the homeless
who lived in Waveland,
to place pets that have been
percentage rate of adoption,
animals. The Austin Bridge
Miss.; another joyous reunion
rejected by either the death
had it not been for the late
Company donated the office
occurred after several months
of owners or relocation. You
James L. “Bo” Bryant, who
building that now houses the
of separation.
can also report animal abuse
became a deputy sheriff
James L. “Bo” Bryant Animal
after retiring from the state
Shelter in St. Francisville.
shelter has seen a marked
troopers. Bryant routinely
Louisiana State Penitentiary
escalation in the number
Shelter, 9946 West Feliciana
picked up strays he found at
inmates built the kennels,
of adoptions throughout
Pkwy., St. Francisville, (225)
various spots around West
complete with holding
the community. At least 90
784-3109, or visit wfahs.
Feliciana Parish and brought
corrals and pens. The pound,
percent of the animals brought
thebonnieblue.net
Since last August, the
by visiting their website. The James L. “Bo” Bryant
n
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 65
around louisiana
Greater New Orleans LOUISIANA GROWN OTTER ALTERNATIVES IN BOHEMIA PASS
when she created a natural
Sometimes when I am busy
Mississippi in the Bohemia
with home projects and
Spillway in Plaquemines
a movie is playing on the
Parish. The high water of
television, it has the power to
2011 caused the formation
make me stop everything I’m
of the channel; by July of
doing and sit down to watch
that year it breached a
it to the end. One of these
nearby roadway and just
films is Ring of Bright Water,
kept traveling. Members of
the story of a Londoner who
the Lake Pontchartrain Basin
adopts an otter named Mitch
Foundation (LPBF) called
and moves to a dilapidated
the process, “the result of
cottage on a remote Scottish
natural river forces seeking
likely potential to transform
Pass to have full sway;
coast just so Mitch can be
a shorter outlet to the sea.”
into a managed diversion
otherwise placement of
in an environment where he
Dubbed Mardi Gras Pass,
that would save countless
proposed culverts would
can flourish and enjoy life.
the channel, or distributary,
dollars and become a
bring an end to this
The town’s doctor is a lady
is more than 40 feet wide
strong coastal restorative
ecological wonder, evicting
whom the hero first sees as
and is expected to expand.
component to fight the disap-
the recreational fisherman,
she’s wading into a pond,
This deltaic process has not
pearing wetlands. The state
river otters, fish, beavers,
dressed in her good clothes
been observed in modern
is planning a man-made
herons and other wildlife
and shoes, to untangle a
times and offers a vista of
restoration project in the
who are dwelling near their
duck caught in wiring. I’ve
opportunities for scientific
Lower Breton Diversion at
own ring of bright water,
given up speculating why
study. Likewise, although
a cost of $220,000,000; if
not to mention the loss of
I so relate to people such
it is only a little over a year
Mardi Gras Pass was allowed
scientific data that could
as these; I only know the
old, it has already created
to continue to expand, the
prove invaluable for the
painstaking care these people
a new Eden of riverine
Lower Breton Diversion
preservation of the coast.
took in the loving service of
ecology – schools of pogy
would not be necessary.
Both salt water and fresh
beasties and nature should
fish have migrated upriver
be universal.
against the current to reside
there is the creation of a
there, an indication that it
there; the fish then drew the
Garden of Eden, a shadow
has become an important
own brand of otter. The term
river otters who flop on the
has to fall on it – and in
migratory path from the
“river otter” gives a Mark
banks well-fed and happy,
this case, ironically, it is
Mississippi to the Gulf of
Twain flavor to the sleek,
enjoying the shade. It is
the Sunland/Eland Potash
Mexico. Whether or not
whimsical swimmer that
wondrous ecological event,
Oil facility that is near the
Sunland and the Army
looks like an aquatic teddy
now navigable by boats as
breach and the Army Corps
Corps of Engineers are
bear. They are a threatened
a shortcut to the Mississippi
of Engineers who want to
going to wise up and defer
species in America; in some
from the marsh. Shoals filled
proceed with road repair
to the better choice remains
states they are a protected
with vegetation have formed
and the state-sponsored
in the balance.
species. Not long ago, the
due to the sediment carried
Lower Breton Diversion
Mississippi River gave the
through the Pass.
respectively. The LPBF and
river otters, contact
Louisiana is not without its
diversionary channel that breached completely into the
It seems that whenever
water fish have been found
To speak up for the
little critters a bit of a break.
According to the Lake
other groups are urging
blog.nwf.org/2013/01/
On Mardi Gras Day of 2012,
Pontchartrain Foundation,
both Sunland and the Army
speak-up-for-river-otters-in-
Mother Nature performed
Mardi Gras Pass in the
Corps to allow the natural
louisianas-mardi-gras-pass or
her divine voodoo on them
Bohemia Spillway has the
expansion of Mardi Gras
visit www.saveourlake.org
66 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
n
sec travel
Follow That Tiger! A guide to the towns on LSU’s SEC road schedule. By Adam Norris
ATHENS, GA.
open, at press time, the
historic sites, offered daily by
restaurant was up for sale).
Classic City Tours, or wander
American’s great college
Watt Club is another iconic
R.E.M. adopted Weaver’s
around yourself. If quiet
towns. Whether or not the
venue, having served as an
“Automatic for the People”
contemplation in a serene
Tigers are in town, it is still
incubator for the punk rock
motto for its 1992 album.
setting suits your pregame
worth a visit for its Victorian
and New Wave movements.
Five Star Day Café is another
routine, check out the State
architecture, eclectic shopping,
The list of artists who have
local favorite, serving up
Botanical Garden of Georgia,
inventive Southern dining and
played there reads like a who’s
Southern comfort food in a
a gorgeous 313-acre preserve
legendary live music scene.
who of American music. Now
chic modern setting.
operated by the University of
Athens served as a launch
in its fifth location on West
Athens has 16 historic
Georgia. It offers nature trails
pad for bands like R.E.M., the
Washington Street, the 40
districts and 35 other sites
through the forest and Middle
B-52s, Widespread Panic and
Watt Club continues to attract
on the National Register of
Oconee River.
the Indigo Girls, and music
indie acts from Athens and
Historic Places – you can take
If you have a few minutes
is an inextricable part of the
around the nation.
a guided tour of many of these
to spare before kickoff, check
Athens, Ga., is one of
city’s identity. To survey the performances
To experience a classic Athens bar, head to The
in town during your stay, pick
Globe at the corner of
up a copy of Flagpole, the free
Clayton and Lumpkin Streets,
alternative newsweekly that
just a block away from the
chronicles all things musical
University of Georgia’s
and cultural. The Georgia
North Campus. Known for its
Theatre is the crown jewel
distinctive brass bar, it’s likely
of Athens performance halls.
to slake your thirst no matter
Destroyed by a fire in 2009,
your taste, with more than 80
it reopened in 2011 with a
beers, 50 single malt scotches
state-of-the-art sound system,
and 35 varieties of wine.
improved acoustics and
For food on a college
two balconies. The theater
student’s budget, visit The
now features a spectacular
Grill for the fries with feta
rooftop bar with patio seating
dressing, Cali N Tito’s
and food service from a
for fish tacos or Weaver
neighboring restaurant, The
D’s Delicious Fine Food
Branded Butcher. The 40
for soul food (though still
68 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
The Globe, Athens, Ga.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 69
populating its menu with local
bash Ole Miss. But enmity
fare like sweet potatoes from
and respect are not mutually
Vardaman, Miss., and house-
exclusive, and so when it
smoked farm-raised bacon.
comes to recognizing the
Chef Jonathan “Ty” Thames
most fantastic tailgating
is a Mississippi native who
tableau in the nation, Tiger
cut his culinary teeth mostly
fans give respect where it
in and around Washington,
is due. The Grove, on the
D.C., before returning home to
University of Mississippi’s
open restaurants in his home
Oxford campus, is the
state. The most acclaimed
undisputed champion of the
steakhouse in town is The
pregame festival.
Veranda. For the past decade,
of campus may be the most
serving up quality cuts of
valuable real estate in the
Angus steaks as well as terrific
Magnolia State during home
salmon and tuna.
game Saturdays – it’s certainly
Mugshots, which serves an
Mugshots, Starkville, Miss.
The leafy 10-acre center
it’s earned a reputation for
the most coveted. The crowds
array of gourmet hamburgers
are so thick, the locals say,
on sour dough rolls, is
that The Grove swells to
a perennial Mississippi
the second-largest city in
favorite. It opened its first
Mississippi on game days.
location in Hattiesburg, Miss.,
With majestic oak, elm and
and although it’s a franchise,
magnolia trees providing all
it enjoys a rabid following
the necessary shade to make
in Starkville. Perhaps the
an afternoon in the Deep
town’s best-known eatery,
South tolerable, this ritualistic
and one that ESPN analyst
picnic plays out with both
Lee Corso seems contrac-
precision and frivolity.
tually bound to mention
If there is a home game on
whenever talking about
Saturday, people are allowed
out a memorial to one of
125 miles northeast of
a Mississippi State home
to start setting up in The
college sports’ great mascots
Jackson and 23 miles west
game, is The Little Dooey.
Grove on Friday night at 9
inside Sanford Stadium. To
of Columbus, Miss. – the city
This barbecue destination is
p.m. When the horn blows,
date, nine English Bulldogs
boasts a quaint downtown, an
a small, cramped converted
fans race out among the trees
have carried the name “Uga,”
improving dining scene and
house, which seems to matter
to stake out space with their
derived from an abbre-
enough watering holes to give
very little when sitting elbow-
tents and folding tables in an
viation for the University
any football fan ample options
to-elbow with a stranger and
exercise that resembles the
of Georgia. Deceased Ugas
before and after the game.
inhaling its signature sauce-
Oklahoma Land Rush of 1889.
are interred in a mausoleum
The range of accommoda-
soaked pulled pork.
The number of people and
near the main entrance at
tions in Starkville is limited,
The best advice for anyone
the southwest corner of the
but the most noteworthy is
attending a Mississippi State
distinguish The Grove from
stadium. Each tomb has a
Hotel Chester, a 37-room
game, though, has nothing to
other tailgating grounds
bronze plaque describing the
property that is listed on the
do with what to eat or where
around the country – it’s
dog’s tenure with an accom-
National Register of Historic
to stay – it’s more about what
what’s under those tents
panying epitaph.
Places. It’s located downtown
to prepare for. And though
and on those people that
so you can sample a variety of
you may be familiar with
account for that inimitable
STARKVILLE, MISS.
restaurants and shops without
the tradition of Bulldogs
Ole Miss style. Women wear
If you happen to be a
venturing more than a couple
fans ringing cowbells inside
cocktail dresses, long strands
Louisiana resident driving
of blocks, and it’s about a
Davis Wade Stadium, there’s
of pearls and designer
around north central
20-minute walk from the
no way to anticipate the
sunglasses. The apparel alone
Mississippi, it’s a good bet
Mississippi State campus.
decibel level and duration of
makes a statement: This is an
that cacophonous clanging.
event. The tents are decked
Bring earplugs.
out with chandeliers and
you’re either irretrievably
Restaurant Tyler is a fine
tents, however, are not what
lost or on your way to watch
dining standout. Located on
a Mississippi State football
East Main Street in downtown
game. In spite of Starkville’s
Starkville, it adheres to a
Oxford, Miss.
are set with candelabras,
remote location – it’s located
farm-to-table philosophy by
LSU football fans love to
flower arrangements, white
70 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
satellite TVs while the tables
print by William Faulkner;
single pastime is apparent in
Neilson’s Department
Tuscaloosa’s premier tourist
Store, the South’s oldest
attraction – the Paul W.
department store; and City
Bryant Museum, located on
Grocery, a fine dining estab-
the University of Alabama
lishment helmed by New
campus. Even the most
Orleans native and James
ardent Crimson Tide-hater
Beard Award-winning chef
will appreciate both the
John Currence. The City
quantity and quality of the
Grocery Bar, located above
exhibits within the museum,
the restaurant, draws a
which houses the history of
whiskey-loving crowd with
Alabama football with special
a literary bent. If you’re
emphasis on legendary coach
craving fried fish, drive 10
Paul “Bear” Bryant.
minutes south of town to Paul W. Bryant Museum, Tuscaloosa, Ala.
Open daily for a nominal
Taylor Grocery in Taylor,
entrance fee, the museum
Miss., and be prepared to
features items such as
linen tablecloths and fine
the best place to experience
wait for some of the best
a Waterford Crystal
silverware. There’s also the
Oxford outside of The Grove.
catfish served anywhere in
houndstooth hat, which
unorthodox culinary collision
For a small city, its collection
Mississippi.
commemorates Bryant’s
of the high: pâté and brie and
of shops, restaurants, art
the low: chicken fingers and
galleries and live music
Tuscaloosa, Ala.
the Daniel Moore painting
onion dip. It’s all part of the
venues is as impressive as
College football may be
used to create a U.S. postage
party in The Grove.
any in the country. Some
an autumn sport, but in
stamp to celebrate Bryant’s
of the local landmarks are
Alabama it is part of the
coaching legacy. One of the
Courthouse Square, which
Square Books, which has
year-round conversation.
more intriguing exhibits is
exudes Southern charm, is
available every book in
This fanatical devotion to a
a recreation of Bryant’s old
The Historic Oxford
signature headwear and
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 71
with white bread and you will
The Grove at Ole Miss
leave satisfied. For a more scenic, and less messy, dining experience, visit the Cypress Inn on the banks of Black Warrior River. The cypressconstructed restaurant, located on four acres of gardens, offers a gorgeous panorama and lots of Southern favorites like catfish and fried green tomatoes. On game day, there is only one place to go before kickoff: the Quad, in the heart of Alabama’s campus. In the early days of the Crimson Tide program, the Quad was actually the first on-campus site for home games. A century later, it
office, including his actual
started coaching at Alabama.
football game, it’s the ribs
serves as the tailgating hub
furniture, to give visitors a
It may be hard for some
from Dreamland that are
on campus. At every home
glimpse of what it would be
Alabamians to discern which
wagered. The game plan for
game, there are 10 different
like to be in the presence of
event was more significant.
first-timers is simple: You
family activities set in the
coaching greatness.
When Alabama governors
will order the ribs, you will
Quad, everything from
make those publicity-seeking
get an embarrassing amount
moonwalks to obstacle
head to The Strip, a row
bets with other governors
of sauce on your face and
courses and a mechanical
of bars and shops along
on the outcome of a college
fingers, you will sponge it up
bull.
For a taste of college life,
n
University Drive, just off the University of Alabama campus. The Houndstooth, once voted by Sports Illustrated as the No. 1 sports bar in America, has a huge outdoor patio that makes it perfect for people watching. And on game days, Big Bad Wolves sets up shop on the porch of The Houndstooth and proffers its famous barbecue nachos. If you’re a devotee of dive bars, duck into Gallete’s, a dingy and smoky favorite that typically stays packed from Thursday night to Sunday morning on the weekends of home games. A vodka and rum-based punch called the Yellowhammer is its signature drink and the best known cocktail in town. Dreamland Bar-B-Que opened its first location in Tuscaloosa in 1958, the same year that Bear Bryant 72 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
ATLANTA – SITE OF THE SEC CHAMPIONSHIP GAME With a dynamic economy and a thriving corporate culture, Atlanta is the most cosmopolitan city in the Deep South. Yet amid all the trendy bistros and boutique hotels, it is still, at its core, a Southern city with all the charm and tradition that goes with it. It is also a city best defined by its many distinct neighborhoods. If you’re only in town for a couple of days, it’s best to pick one or two and go exploring. Little Five Points is Atlanta’s bohemian neighborhood, prized for its independent theater offerings, live music and artistic community. Junkman’s Daughter is a 10,000 square-foot megastore filled with wacky items that you never knew existed but can’t seem to leave without. One of the best burgers in Atlanta is served at The Vortex Bar & Grill, a neighborhood joint known for its fun, heavily tattooed staff and its large laughing skull entrance. Buckhead is often called the Beverly Hills of the East, and while you may not be browsing for mansions, you can still take advantage of the world-class shopping and dining for which it is known. Phipps Plaza and Lennox Square
offer an array of upscale stores. To hang with the beautiful people, take the glass elevator up 125 feet to the top of the W Atlanta-Buckhead Hotel. Whiskey Blue is a swanky bar with two outdoor terraces that offer spectacular views of Buckhead and Lenox Square on one side and Midtown on the other. Midtown is home to Piedmont Park, a 189-acre urban park that features walking paths, picnic areas, playgrounds, ponds and a dog park. Park Tavern Sushi Bar & Brewery, located in Piedmont Park, brews its own handcrafted beers and serves half price sushi every night from 10 to midnight, which you can sample from the patio with views of the park and Atlanta’s massive skyline. And if poking around new neighborhoods isn’t your preference, there are still Atlanta’s main attractions to be seen. They include: the Georgia Aquarium, the biggest aquarium in the world; Six Flags Over Georgia; World of Coca Cola; tours of CNN’s world headquarters; and Stone Mountain Park, the world’s largest piece of exposed granite and longest running laser show.
lifetimes a guide to events around the state july/august Compiled by Judi Russell
NORTH Lousiana July 13-21. Ruston Community Theatre “The King & I.” 212 N. Vienna, Ruston. (318) 255-1450.
July 13-14. Shop Til You Drop Arts, Craft & Gift Show. Bossier Civic Center, Bossier
Louisiana Watermelon Festival in Farmerville
City. (318) 470-6714.
July 19-20. Natchitoches-NSU Folk Fest. Prather Coliseum, NSU, Natchitoches.
July 26-27. 50th Annual Louisiana Watermelon Festival. 100 E. Bayou St., Farmerville. (318) 368-0044.
July 19-21. 26th Annual Cajun Food & Music Festival. Burton Coliseum, Lake
de Franklin.’ Main Street, Franklin. (337)
Charles. (337) 436-9588.
Aug. 20-Sept. 02. Louisiana Shrimp & Petroleum Festival. Downtown Morgan City.
July 20. 5th Annual Cake & Ice Cream Festival. 300 A.A. Comeaux Park Drive,
828-6345.
(985) 385-0703.
Aug 10. Franklin Parish Catfish Festival.
Abbeville (337) 652-0646.
Aug. 22-25. Duck Festival. Hwy. 15,
805 Jackson St., Winnsboro. (318) 435-7607.
July 20. 2nd Annual Bayou BBQ Bash.
Gueydan. (337) 536-6456.
Under the US 90 Bridge, Morgan City. (985) 384-3830.
Aug. 24. Family & Youth Festival. Lake
CAJUN Country July 4. 4th of July Celebration. Erath. (337) 937-5515.
July 4. Red, White and You Festival. 900
July 20-21. SugaSheaux. 713 NW Bypass (Hwy. 3212), New Iberia. (337) 365-7539.
July 25-27. Marshland Festival. Lake Charles Civic Center, Lake Charles. (337) 436-9588.
Lakeshore Drive, Lake Charles. (337) 475-5000.
July 27. Louisiana Stock Horse Competition. 713 NW Bypass (Hwy. 3213),
July 4. New Iberia Festival of July Parade.
New Iberia. (337) 365-7539.
Main Street, New Iberia. (337) 365-1428.
July 27. Zydeco Bash. 5509 Hwy. 14,
July 4. Let Freedom Ring Festival. End of E. Seventh St., Thibodaux. (985) 447-1978.
Ferriday.
July 4-6. Golden Meadow-Fourchon International Tarpon Rodeo. 27900
Aug. 3-4. Cajun Youth Sports Festival.
LA Hwy. 1, Fourchon, Golden Meadow. (225) 931-7306.
Aug. 7. Purple Heart Day Ceremony. 102
(985) 632-7616.
July 18-21 & 25-28. “Little Shop of Horrors.” Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center, Thibodaux. (985) 446-1896. 76 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
Plaisance. (337) 290-6048.
Aug. 31-Sept. 1. Louisiana Brahaman Sugar Classic. 713 NW Bypass (Hwy. 3212). New Iberia. (337) 365-7539.
Aug. 3. Great Balls of Fire: Delta Blues & Rock ‘n’ Roll in Jerry Lee’s Home Town.
July 13-14. COYC Indoor Craft & Market Place. Cut Off Youth Center, Cut Off.
Aug. 31. 31st Southwest Louisiana Zydeco Music Festival. 457 Zydeco Road,
Aug. 31-Sept. 2. Labor Day Fishing Rodeo. LA 319 & Beach Lane, Cypremort
July 4-6. 4th of July Fishing Rodeo.
(337) 351-3902.
(337) 896-5000.
New Iberia. (337) 277-6069. Acadian Memorial, 121 S. New Market St., St. Martinville. (337) 394-2258.
July 6. 23rd Annual Lebeau Zydeco Festival. 103 Lebeau Church Road, Lebeau.
Aug. 24-25. Lafayette Reggae & Cultural Festival. 110 Softball Drive, Carencro.
July 28. Acadian Day of Remembrance.
July 4. Let Freedom Ring. Peltier Park, Thibodaux. (985) 446-5237. LA 319 & Beach Lane, Cypremort Point. (337) 367-9873.
Charles Civic Center, Lake Charles. (337) 436-9588.
Erath. (337) 652-5437. W. Main St., New Iberia. (337) 365-1428.
Aug. 14-18. Delcambre Shrimp Festival. 401 Richard St., Delcambre. (337) 685-2653.
Aug. 15-17. Le Cajun Music Awards & Festival. 1688 Smede Hwy., St. Martinville. (337) 789-0319.
Aug. 17. Arts & Crab Festival. Lake Charles Civic Center, Lake Charles. (337) 439-2787.
Aug. 17. 4th Annual ‘Promenade d’Art
Point. (337) 364-7301.
CENTRAL Through Aug. 24. Pulp Icons: Stewart Nachmias. Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
Through Aug. 24. Artists Among Us: Faculty & Friends. Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
July 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 & Aug. 6, 13. Yoga in the Gallery. Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
July 4. Celebration on the Cane – Independence Day. 781 Front St., Natchitoches. (800) 259-1714.
July 4. Avoyelles Festival of the Fourth.
Between Main & Washington streets, one block off Tunica Drive, Marksville.
July 19-20. Natchitoches /NSU Folk Festival. Northwestern State University, Natchitoches. (800) 259-1714.
July 20. Art in the Community: Pulp Art. Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
Aug. 10. Second Saturday Market.
(225) 925-2244.
Aug. 24. “Geocaching.” West Baton Rouge Museum, Port Allen. (225) 336-2422.
of Southern Art, New Orleans. (504) 539-9613.
July 4-7. Essence Music Festival. 1500
Aug. 24. Polos & Pearls. 117288
Poydras St., New Orleans. Essence.com
Ferdinand St., Baton Rouge. (225) 635-3873.
July 4-7. Mandeville Seafood Festival.
Aug. 24. Taste of a Tiger Tailgating Party.
July 4. Bogalusa’s Birthday & Old-Fashioned Independence Day. Avenue
Baton Rouge River Center, Baton Rouge. (225) 775-3877.
62883 Hwy. 90, Mandeville. (985) 624-9762.
B, Bogalusa. (985) 732-3791.
Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
Aug. 30. Wilson Phillips at The Manship Theatre. Shaw Center for the Performing
July 8-19. Native American Exhibit. 13143
Aug. 15. Live Acoustic Concert. Alexandria
Arts, Baton Rouge. (225) 389-7241.
July 11-14. San Fermin in Nueva Orleans.
Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458. Aug. 17. Art in the Community:
Grand Isle International Tarpon Rodeo
Contemporary Native American Art. Alexandria Museum of Art, Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.
Wardline Rd., Hammond. (985) 542-7520. Various locations, New Orleans. nolabulls.com
July 13-14. Ponchatoula’s Christmas in July Sale. Historic Downtown Ponchatoula. (985) 386-2536.
July 17-21. Tales of the Cocktail. 538 Louisa St., New Orleans. (504) 948-0511.
Aug. 30-31. Cane River Zydeco Festival & Poker Run. Various locations throughout Natchitoches Parish. (318) 471-9950 or (318) 652-0079.
July 25-28. 90th Grand Isle International Tarpon Rodeo. Across from the Community
Aug. 31. Drake Salt Works Festival & Trail Ride. Goldonna. (800) 259-1714.
Aug. 1-31. COOLinary New Orleans. Various
BATON ROUGE/PLANTATION
Aug. 2-4. Satchmo Summerfest. 400 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans. (504) 522-5730.
July 4. USS Kidd Star-Spangled Celebration. USS Kidd Veterans Memorial
Aug. 2-4. Farm to Table International Symposium. Ernest N. Morial Convention
Center, Grand Isle. (504) 736-6418. restaurants, New Orleans. (800) 672-6124.
Museum, Baton Rouge. (225) 342-1942.
Center, New Orleans. (504) 582-3027.
July 7. New Roads River Rhythms Festival.
Aug. 3. Whitney White Linen Night.
211 W. Main St., New Roads. (225) 638-5360.
Warehouse District, New Orleans. (504) 528-3805.
July 8-9. Picnic/Sandwich Cooking Class.
Aug. 3 – June 2, 2014. Bob Hope: An American Treasure. National World War II
18811 Highland Rd., Baton Rouge. (225) 753-3458.
July 11. Noon lunch lecture: “The 4th Louisiana at the Battle of Baton Rouge. West Baton Rouge Museum, Port Allen. (225) 336-2422.
July 19-20. Baton Rouge Irish Film Festival. Manship Theatre, Baton Rouge. (225) 241-2318.
July 26-27. Hummingbird Celebration. 5702 Commerce St., St. Francisville. (225) 635-6502.
July 31. “Both Sides of the River – Highland and Bird Cemeteries.” West
Museum, New Orleans. (504) 528-1944.
GREATER NEW ORLEANS
Aug. 10. Red Dress Run. Louis Armstrong
Through July 14. To Paint and Pray: The Art and Life of William R. Hollingsworth Jr. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, New
Park, New Orleans. Nolareddress.com
Orleans. (504) 539-9613.
Through July 14. Eudora Welty: Photographs from the 1930s and ‘40s. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, New Orleans. (504) 539-9613.
Through July 21. When You’re Lost, Everything’s a Sign: Self-Taught Art from The House of Blues. Ogden Museum
Aug. 10. Dirty Linen Night. Royal Street, New Orleans.
Aug. 16-17. Annual Hot August Night. Downtown Hammond. (985) 277-5680.
Aug. 31-Sept. 2. 51st Original Red Fish Rodeo. Bridge side marina, Grand Isle. (985) 787-2997.
Aug. 31. Palmer Park Summer Arts Market. Palmer Park, New Orleans. n
Baton Rouge Museum, Port Allen. (225) 336-2422.
Aug. 8. “A Yankee Blitz Krieg Stumbles: Baton Rouge, Aug. 5, 1862. West Baton Rouge Museum, Port Allen. (225) 336-2422.
Aug. 12. Date Night Cooking Class. 18811 Highland Road, Baton Rouge. (225) 753-3458.
Aug. 23. Food & Wine Fete. 4728 Constitution Ave., Baton Rouge.
ATTENTION FESTIVAL-PLANNERS & CARNIVAL PARADE-PLANNERS HELP US PROMOTE YOUR EVENT! n
Go online to provide information for our calendar section and webpage.
Go to MyNewOrleans.com/Louisiana-Life/Submit-an-Event to let us know about festivals, shows or special events coming up in your areas!
n
n Go to MyNewOrleans.com/Louisiana-Life/Submit-a-Parade-to-Louisiana-Life to keep us posted on your Carnival plans!
Remember, the sooner we get the information, the better able we are to help you.
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 77
quirky places
Soul Survivor Ferriday’s Delta Music Museum By Ryan Whirty
music history. But last year,
Foundation organized a
thanks to drastic budget
series of fundraisers to
cuts, the state legislature
boost the museum’s bottom
slashed funding to the Delta
line, and, coupled with
Music Museum and 14 other
careful budget maintenance,
similar state-run institutions.
those efforts helped the
Secretary of State spokeswoman Meg Casper
DMM not only stay open, but continue to thrive.
Little Ferriday
and lascivious Louisiana
says the department’s funding
(population 3,700 – give or
drawl spawned such eternal
was hacked from about $10.4
five days a week, and a
take a few dozen) has always
classics as “Whole Lotta
million in 2009-’10 to just $3.9
record number of visitors
played an outsized role in
Shakin’ Going On” and
million last year. Much of
have been passing through,
the spectrum of American
“Great Balls of Fire.”
that money, she says, went to
including a high of roughly
support state-run museums
1,300 in one week. And
and other cultural institutions.
it’s not just locals who are
music history. Take, for example, the
In fact, Lewis looms so large in both musical and
The museum is now open
swinging the turnstiles;
once-iconic stature of
regional history that he’s
The facility, has existed as
Haney’s Big House lounge,
the first thing people see
the DMM since 2002 (it was
Bingham says fans from
a juke joint in the heart of
when they enter Ferriday’s
originally called the Ferriday
across the globe have been
the town’s black community,
Delta Music Museum. Well,
Museum) and which falls
making music pilgrimages
where just about every
not the Killer himself, but a
under the auspices of the
to Ferriday. For example,
influential Delta blues artist
sculpture of him and his two
Louisiana Secretary of
several businesses in the
performed at one point
cousins – you might have
State’s office, could only stay
United Kingdom offer bus
or another as they criss-
heard of them, too – Mickey
open to the public three days
tours that include a stop at
crossed the Deep South,
Gilley and Jimmy Swaggart
a week, and it was forced
the DMM.
sprinkling the seeds that
at the piano.
to lay off staff. At one point,
would eventually blossom into rock ’n’ roll. And speaking of rock ’n’
“In 2013, I’d say
The mission of the
it looked like the museum
(patronage) has doubled,”
DMM, says institution
would have to shutter its
Bingham says. “We really
director Judith Bingham,
doors entirely.
have been having huge
roll, Ferriday is perhaps best
is to “collect, preserve and
Great balls of fire, indeed.
crowds here. We’ve really
known to music fandom as
exhibit the music heritage
But the community
just been thrilled at the
the hometown of Jerry Lee
along the Mississippi River,
of Ferriday and the
response. You would be
Lewis, one of the absolutely
beginning in Memphis and
surrounding region in
amazed at the number of
crucial figures in the early
following the river down to
northeast Louisiana came
international guests.”
days of rock, the man whose
New Orleans.”
to the rescue. The Friends
frantic piano pounding 78 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
That’s a huge chunk of
of the Delta Music Museum
Once in the museum, visitors will see displays
of the DMM’s dozens of
hosted dozens of musical
Delta music hall of fame
legends. In addition,
inductees, a group that
induction ceremonies
spans just about every
continue to take place
genre of American tunes.
yearly, and the museum’s
The list includes rockabilly
staff and supporters hope
and country legend Conway
to revive the yearly Delta
Twitty, from Friars Point,
Music Festival, which went
Miss.; soul music legend
dormant last year.
Percy Sledge, a Baton
State government also
Rouge resident who made
seems to be recognizing the
hearts swoon with “When
importance of the DMM; in
a Man Loves a Woman”;
May, Lt. Gov. Jay Dardenne
Allen “Puddler” Harris,
visited the facility, and he
a Jigger, La., native and
returned in August when
Lake Charles resident who,
state officials and The Oxford
among various accomplish-
American magazine hosted
ments, was a member of
a forum honoring Jerry Lee
the original Ricky Nelson
Lewis and Delta blues.
band; John Fred Gourrier,
Of course, the future
the center of John Fred
of the museum isn’t
and His Playboy Band, who
completely secure – with
scored a surprising ’60s pop
state funding continuing
hit with “Judy in Disguise”;
to dwindle, the DMM and
and New Orleans R&B titan
its supporters will still
Clarence “Frogman” Henry,
need to dig up private
whose gimmick of singing
funding to keep it thriving.
like (what else?) a frog made
But for now, the DMM
him a legend.
is an example of what
Henry himself says he was
grass-roots activism and
honored when the DMM
community pride can
inducted him into its halls.
accomplish.
“It was beautiful,” Henry
“News of budget cuts is
says of the DMM and his
always difficult to hear,” says
induction ceremony. “I was
Casper. “But we’ve found
glad.”
that our staff and museum
Also drawing tourists to
volunteers have been finding
the museum is its neighbor
creative ways to do more
on Louisiana Avenue, the
with less money.”
historic Arcade Theater, a
And that should leave any
newly restored gem that,
rock ’n’ roller, as Jerry Lee
in its glorious history, has
would say, breathless.
n
www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 79
a louisiana life
Michael Teifer At 24 years old, Michael Teifer ran away and joined the circus. By Megan Hill
“To make a long story
education and you’re going
supporting roles, as have
geration of yourself,” he says.
into a miniseries, I was going
to be a what?’” But for Teifer,
mules and big cats.
Teifer applies his own make
to Michigan State studying
it was his way of making a
agriculture and fisheries
lasting impact. “I learned that
varied talents. He’s dabbled
and trains his animals. He
and wildlife. I was going to
you can’t change the world,
as a prop builder and clown
says he’s rarely made a child
be a wild turkey scientist,”
but you can change little
costume maker. He did inter-
cry, despite the infamous
the resident of Mandeville
parts of it, and my object is
pretive wild animal shows
notion of a scary clown.
in St. Tammany Parish says.
to make people laugh a little
at schools and libraries. He
“There was a class offered
bit,” he says.
also makes furniture and has
sensitive to body language.
Teifer’s a man of many,
up, creates his own costumes
“One of my gifts is I’m real
designed custom long bows
Kids telegraph their feelings
college and I thought, ‘Well,
lasting 18 to 20 hours a
for the past five years. Teifer
physically,” he says. “If I see
that’s pretty cool. That would
day. “It was clown boot
occasionally dons a Santa
a child react, the first thing
be a good way to get used to
camp basically,” Teifer says.
Claus suit at Christmas, too.
I do is back off and make
being in front of people.’”
He spent two years with
in clowning at a community
The training was intense,
But his main passion is
them not feel threatened. You
Ringling as a clown and a
clowning. There’s such a
have to be aware of those
course, Teifer took the
third year as a tiger groom,
demand for clowns that
things. You’re actually kind
intermediate class, then
putting his wildlife science
Teifer travels about 30,000
of a psychologist. I’m lucky in
the advanced. The Ringling
degree to good use.
miles a year to put on his
that I can verbalize and use
clown act. “I tell people I
language to win them over.”
After the beginner’s
Brothers came to town,
Thirty-two years later,
advertising auditions for their
Teifer, who grew up in New
drive for a living and I occa-
Instead, children tend
Clown College. Out of 5,000
Jersey, still works as a clown.
sionally do shows,” he says.
to be his toughest critics.
applicants, 60 were invited
“You either have to be a fool
His clown name is a riff off
Teifer says the show must
to try out, and 14 received
or a clown or both,” he says
his initials and a play on
be authentic, or his young
contracts to go on the road
of his career. After his stint
words: MT Noggin.
audiences will call his bluff.
for the 10-week training
with Ringling, Teifer began
program. Teifer was among
working independently,
honed his performances and
people spot a phony – partic-
those 14. He abandoned his
performing at birthday
his clown alter ego, which
ularly kids,” he says. “They
master’s program, much to
parties and at malls, libraries
he says is an extension of his
can be brutal. That’s baptism
the displeasure of his parents.
and schools. Teifer incorpo-
own personality.
by fire. You’re throwing
“To quote my dad, ‘We spent $30,000 on your 80 | Louisiana Life July/August 2013
rates animals into his shows, too. His dogs have played
Over the years, Teifer has
“Your character comes out of your insides. It’s an exag-
“It’s got to be real because
yourself off a cliff like, ‘Tada, love me.’”
n