New Orleans Magazine March 2018 by Renaissance Publishing

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march 2018 / VOLUME 52 / NUMBER 5 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Mary Lou Eichhorn, Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Brobson Lutz, M.D., Jason Berry, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton, Mirella Cameran Web Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot, Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Sales Manager Kate Sanders Henry (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Senior Account Executive Claire Cummings Account Executive Rachel Webber Director of Marketing and Events Cheryl Lemoine Event Coordinator Whitney Weathers Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Manager Jessica DeBold Production Designers Emily Andras, Demi Schaffer, Molly Tullier Traffic Manager Topher Balfer Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Subscriptions Manager Brittanie Bryant WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 Subscriptions: (504) 830-7231 MyNewOrleans.com New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2018 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents fe a tu r es

Explore the Coast

Best New Architecture

Off the Beaten Path

Design Sensations; Business and Residential

By CherĂŠ Coen

By John P. Klingman

on the cover Pop Brothers gourmet popsicles photo by Shannon Lutkins

Contents dep a r t m ents

Local Color Chris Rose Beating the Buckets 42

Modine Gunch Gender Trender 44

Joie d’Eve Losing a Mentor 46

In Tune The Music Continues 48

Book Review This month’s best reads 50

Jazz Life

The Beat Marquee Entertainment calendar 24

A Phase of Evolution 52

Home Love at First Sight 54

Art Recitations 26

Persona Molly Kimball 28

Biz Stage Center 32

Education Theresa Cross 34

Health Travel Immunizations 36

Chronicles Market Hunting 38

The Menu Table Talk Gabrielle 80

Restaurant Insider News From the Kitchens 82

Food Happy Hollandaise 84

Last Call Red Skies at Night 86

In Every Issue

Dining Guide Plus restaurant spotlights 88

Inside Beach Front Evolution 12

Speaking Out 38

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 16

Julia Street Questions and answers about our city 18

Try This Driftin’ Away Again 126

Streetcar At the Altar 128

DIAL 12, D1 Join host Michael Keaton to celebrate “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood,” the pioneering children’s series that premiered nationally 50 years ago. MISTER ROGERS: IT’S YOU I LIKE airs on Sunday, March 4 at 9:30am and Tuesday, March 6 at 7pm only on WYES-TV/Channel 12.

inside

Beach Front Evolution Three Factors that Redefined the Coast

here was a time when if folks from the New Orleans area wanted to visit the gulf coast they might go to Bay St. Louis or, if they were adventurous, head as far as Biloxi or Ocean Springs. Going beyond that was a real vacation. There wasn’t much along the Alabama coast except for Mobile Bay and Point Clear where the venerable Grand Hotel stands. The Florida Panhandle was where the real beach feeling came into play, with Pensacola at one end and Panama City to the far east. Names that are common today were not known only a few decades ago. Hardly anyone spoke of Orange Beach, Gulf Shores, Destin or snappy new villages including Seaside and Water Color. But then things began change, quickly. I call it the “new gulf coast” and my theory is that there were three factors that changed it: Interstate 10. Completion of the transcontinental interstate trough New Orleans and to points east and west cut down the drive time to many places, including the gulf coast. The far end of the panhandle could be reached within five hours. New Orleans vacationers were closer than ever to green water and white sands. Condominiums. There was plenty of room for growth on the emerging gulf coast. The concept of the condo provided a way to finance it. Money came from owners of units rather than having to rely totally on fat cats or cautious banks. As high-rises and subdivisions opened, thousand of people had 12

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pieces of the development. The new buildings kept on coming. Gambling. Mississippi’s gulf coast would have suffered from the other two factors had it not been for the games of chance. With travel times less of a factor, the green water and white sand from Pensacola east became more of an attraction. Mississippi needed its own attraction. Enter the casino. Where people once went to collect shells now they could spin wheels, dine at fancy restaurants and see glitzy shows. The Mississippi gulf coast had to redefine itself and did so with casinos. Credit it all to I-10 and condos. What have evolved are two stretches of shores across the beaches of three states: Mississippi’s gambling coast and AlabamaFlorida’s pristine water coasts. Both fortunately are still interactive with nature. There is more shell life along the Mississippi coast, which partially accounts for the sand being darker; the white sand coast has dunes and lagoons. It is also possible to visit both coasts and not even have time for the water because of the off the road exploring. That is what we look at in this issue, including a place that makes great popsicles. Not denied to either coast is nature’s greatest display—the sunset. Sitting on the beach on a spring evening looking west as night approaches, is, in its own way, like hitting a jackpot.

meet the sales staff

Kate Sanders Henry Sales Manager (504) 830-7216, Kate@myneworleans.com

Claire Cummings Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7250, Claire@myneworleans.com

Rachel Webber Account Executive (504) 830-7249, Rachel@MyNewOrleans.com

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215, Colleen@myneworleans.com 14

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speaking out

New Orleans and San Antonio A Tale Of Two Tricentennials

n May 1, 1718, a mission was established in southwest Texas to be known as the Mission San Antonio de Valero. Four days later, on May 5, the Presidio was opened as a garrison to protect the mission. That date is usually used as the beginning of a city to be known as San Antonio. Only a part of the original mission complex remains, but its name is legendary, the Alamo. Two days later, on May 7, 1718, and 543 miles to the East a business known as the Company of the West doing France’s work to develop the Louisiana territory officially recognized French territorial colonizer Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville’s preferred site to establish a new city. It would be called New Orleans. We’ll admit that the exact dates

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of the above events have been fuzzed a little by time but there is agreement that both cities, though already home to scattered settlements, became official at practically the same time—early May, 1718. For both, this is their Tricentennial year. Like San Antonio, New Orleans too, though founded by the French, was governed by Spain at one time and from that came some of its architectural character. San Antonio was originally part of Mexican Texas. The Alamo would become the site of the last great defeat on the way to American statehood. What happened there is better known, probably because of movies and legendary characters such as Davy Crockett, than the ultimate victory at San Jacinto near Houston. San Jacinto was Texas’ Battle of New

Orleans; Sam Houston was Texas’ Andrew Jackson. (Curiously the two knew other; Houston, once a governor of Tennessee, even visited the Hermitage, Jackson’s home near Nashville.) Both cities have elements of old world charm, at least in their downtown. In contemporary times New Orleans’ best-known link to San Antonio has been Tom Benson, who spread his auto dealer empire to the Texas city. Benson’s feuding family is also located in the area. As much as we like San Antonio as a place to visit, we were disappointed when the Saints were temporarily located there after Hurricane Katrina. San Antonio’s then mayor Phil Hardberger was not too subtle in his conviction that the team would stay there and never move back to New

Orleans. Fortunately his dancing on the grave ran afoul to the vision of the NFL. (By contrast, Oklahoma City where the then New Orleans Hornets relocated embraced the team yet was more sympathetic, perhaps because that city too, the site of the notorious bombing, knew what it was like to suffer through an urban tragedy.) For this occasion, however, we should not brood, but celebrate our two anniversaries. We have jazz; they have marimbas. Among vintage places, we have the Roosevelt Hotel; they have the Menger. In the NBA, we have the Pelicans; they have the Spurs. We have “Do you now what it means to miss New Orleans’; they have “San Antonio Rose.” Most of all, a round of Sazeracs for us; margaritas for them. •

AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE

julia street

with poydras the parrot

$5,000 worth of his personal “good will, experience, services and labor.” The farm got built but, like its livestock, never took flight. By July, park officials lowered rent and increased admission prices to aid the foundering venture but, within a month, the New Orleans Ostrich Farm was in receivership. In Dec. 1915, farm assets were liquidated at auction. ------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear Julia, Can you or Poydras explain how the Chinese resturant on Veterans next to the old Roy Rogers came to have a giant cactus for its sign? Nobody I asked can recall any Mexican restaurant there. Can you solve this long-standing mystery? Samantha Bordelon (Metairie) In 1970, a fast food chain based in St. Louis built at 1011 Veterans Highway a new Taco King restaurant but there were problems with the lease. A lawsuit ensued and the completed and fully-equipped building was placed on the market. Three businesses – Steak King International, Taco Villa and Joe’s Meat Market – opened and closed there before 1973, when South Seas Restaurant opened at that location. The new Chinese-American eatery found itself with a perfecty good, nearly-new eye-catching display sign towering over its parking. Unfortunately, it depicted a clearly Mexican man perching in a cactus. Whether inspired by thrift, Happy Hour, or weird sense of humor, someone “fixed” the 18

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former Taco King sign by giving its inhabitant a makeover, modifing his headgear, facial hair and eye shape to look more Asian. The end result didn’t achieve its goal but was memorable. South Seas endured for years before it and the sign were both demolished

where Delgado Community College stands today. The man behind the plan was Lafayette M. Hughes, formerly assoicated with the Long Beach Ostrich Farm outside Los Angeles. When the Long Beach operation folded, Hughes partnered with Fr. Andrew Quetu, a Franciscan priest who operated a farm at the -----------------------------------------------------------------Mission of San Juan Capistrano. In 1913, 60 ostrich, with a combined Dear Poydras and Julia, I dimly recall my grandfather value of $15,000, were transported telling me there once was an from Long Beach to San Juan ostrich farm at City Park. I looked Capistrano but ostriches are in the published apparently ill-suited to the contempletative history of the park Louisiana Postcard and searched online Collection, Mss. 3645, life. The local press without success. Did 3754, Louisiana and soon took notice of a Lower Mississippi it really exist? Ernest series of unfortunate Valley Collections, avian incidents beginDiSalvo (Marrero) LSU Libraries, Baton ning with a near fatal Rouge, La. attack on padre John During WWI, City Park leased property to the New O’Sullivan. Hughes and his flock Orleans Ostrich Farm, hoping migrated to New Orleans in 1915. to cash in on what the lessees In January 1915, City Park assured them would create a lucra- granted to Hughes permission tive educational attraction while to operate an ostrich farm. Three harvesting and selling plumes months later, the New Orleans for the fashion trade. The farm Ostrich Farm was incorporated. was at the intersection of City Hughes paid for his shares by Park Avenue and Orleans Avenue, $15,000 worth of flightless and

Dear Julia, My late aunt was a faithful Tonight Show viewer and was quite excited when Johnny Carson opened his restraurant in Metairie. It was called Here’s Johnny’s and wasn’t around long. It was on Vets near the 17th Street Canal. Can you tell me anything else about it? Eean Jones (New Orleans) In the late 1960s, Gilbert “Gibby” Swanson, Jr., a member of the Swanson frozen food empire, approached Tonight Show host Johnny Carson to lend his name and catch-phrase to a new familyoriented fast-food chain. Carson served as board chair but neither owned nor participated in management of Johnny’s American Inn, Inc., which operated about 300 Here’s Johnny’s locations. Family Restaurant Corporation owned three Here’s Johnny’s franchises in New Orleans in 1970. The problem was that diners weren’t breaking down the doors to get ordinary burgers, fried chicken and similar fare, and soon closed.

Have a question for julia? Send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com.

promotional section

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At Henderson Park Inn, an adults-only, gulf-front boutique hotel in Destin, Florida, privacy seekers will find the ultimate sanctuary for rest, relaxation, and romance. With serenity and style, the Inn boasts 36 intimate rooms, luxury amenities, and gulf-front terraces. Enjoy complimentary beach chairs/umbrellas, bicycles, chef’s gourmet breakfast, picnic-style boxed lunches, happy hour drinks at the “Tiki” bar, as well as wine, chocolates, and roses upon arrival. Dine on property in the evening at BeachWalk Café, Destin’s only fine dining located directly on the Gulf and offering unique dining opportunities with rose-petaled “Toes in the Sand,” and outdoor, veranda dining overlooking the sugar white sands and translucent waters of the Emerald Coast. Looking for more activities than relaxing at the beach? The Inn’s guests have access to all the amenities next door at the Inn’s sister property, The Henderson, a Salamander Beach & Spa Resort. Amenities include a full-service spa, fitness center, and two beautiful pools. Visit HendersonParkInn.com or call 866-398-4432 for more information. •

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The Beat MARQUEE . ART . PERSONA . BIZ . EDUCATION . HEALTH . CHRONICLES

greg miles photo

Registered Dietician and Nutrition journalist Molly Kimball Dishes on eating fit.

THE beat . marquee

March Our top picks for this month’s events By fritz esker

Hogs for the Cause On March 23 & 24, head to UNO Lakefront Arena for great food, great music and great fun at Hogs for the Cause. Barbecue teams compete against each other in an effort to raise money for families dealing with cancer. There are even vegetarian options available. Bands include The Hot 8 Brass Band and Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe. Single-day tickets are $25 in advance. Two-day tickets are $49 in advance. Information, HogsForTheCause.org.

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Tennessee Williams Literary Festival With a combination of educational, literary, theatrical and musical programs, the Tennessee Williams Festival honors New Orleans’ most legendary playwright. From Mar. 21-25 in the French Quarter, writers will share their expertise and panelists will discuss literature, along with more light-hearted fare like the annual “Stella!” shouting contest. A variety of ticket and pass options are available. Information, TennesseeWilliams.net.

Noel Gallagher Take a trip back to the 90s with Oasis guitarist and singer Noel Gallagher for a one-night-only show in the lovely Orpheum Theater on March 2. Ticket prices range from $52-77. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

Sun Belt Basketball Championship From March 6-11, the Sun Belt Conference will host its end-of-season tournament at UNO Lakefront Arena for both its men’s and women’s teams. Each group’s winner is guaranteed a spot in the NCAA “March Madness” tournament, so the teams are sure to be fighting tooth and nail for the championship. Information, SunBeltSports.org.

calendar Events, Exhibits & Performances Jan. 1-Jun. 30

March 12

The Church in the Crescent: 300 Years of Catholicism in New Orleans, Old Ursuline Convent. Information, OldUrsulineConventMuseum.com.

Fleet Foxes, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

Mar. 1- May 28

The Founding Era Exhibit, Historic New Orleans Collection. Information, hnoc.org. Mar. 2

2018 Winter Jam Tour, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu. March 2-4

Cirque du Soleil: Corteo, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com. March 3-4

Congo Square New Worlds Rhythm Festival, Congo Square. Information, JazzAndHeritage.org. March 3-11

Spring Fiesta, French Quarter. Information, SpringFiestaNOLA.com.

March 14-25

The Phantom of the Opera, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com. March 15 & 17

Pines of Rome and Bela Fleck, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com. March 15

Taco Fest, Woldenberg Park. Information, Facebook.com/ TopTacoNOLA. March 15

Joe Rogan Strange Times 2018 Tour, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com. March 18

Mardi Gras Indians Super Sunday, A.L. Davis Park. Information, NewOrleansOnline.com. March 20

Bianca del Rio, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

SuicideGirls: Blackheart Burlesque, Joy Theater. Information, TheJoyTheater.com.

March 4

March 24

Humana Rock ’n’ Roll New Orleans Marathon, New Orleans. Information, RunRockNRoll.com.

Simply Sinatra, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

March 3

March 25 March 8

Papa Roach, Joy Theater. Information, TheJoyTheater.com.

Justin Moore, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu. March 25

March 9 & 11

Champion, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com.

Bon Jovi, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter. com. March 30

March 9-10

Buku Music and Art Project, Mardi Gras World. Information, TheBukuProject.com.

Disney Junior Dance Party on Tour!, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com. March 30

March 10

Luke Bryan: What Makes You Country Tour, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

11th Annual Big Easy Blues Festival, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu. March 31

Crescent City Classic, New Orleans. Information, ccc10k.com. m y ne w orleans . com

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THE beat . art

Recitations …pour le triomphe de la liberté et de l’égalité… By Alexa Renée Harrison

ave you heard the bells? It’s almost as if a moment has been frozen in time, haunting the French Quarter daily at 3 p.m. There are five bells dispersed through an area that’s roughly bordered by Chartres, Toulouse, Royal and St. Louis streets. But of course, the sound spills beyond this, and also disappears into it. They resist being heard all at the same time, so if you do want to hear all of them, you’ll have to move through the city. The bells are a part of Recitations (…pour le triomphe de la liberté et de l’égalité…), a sound installation by Zarouhie Abdalian, and the first program offered in conjunction with The Historic New Orleans

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Collection’s forthcoming exhibition Art of the City: Postmodern to Post-Katrina, presented by The Helis Foundation. While we’re often imprisoned by familiarity—the things we think we know, like our city, or the longestablished use for bells (church, school, another hour ticking by), Recitations goes beyond the traditional art space and time frame and creates a truly compelling and unique exhibit, which encourages residents and tourists alike to rediscover the city, a new city, blossoming amongst the old. Abdalian, a graduate of the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts, and a Crescent City native, has been deeply inspired by the city’s desire to take control of

public spaces in the recent years a signal, but how will this signal be registered? Will it be a call leading up to our Tricentennial. The title of the installation, to war, or a call for peace? Will ‘for the triumph of freedom and it evoke the past, or ring in a equality,’ comes from a 1791 letter new era? The rhythms heard from Toussaint Louverture wrote to the the bells are related to speech French commissioner or oration, a sound on the eve of the that mimics talking to Haitian Revolution. one another. One can View from the roof of the Omni Royal only imagine what this “For me, that title was appropriate on Orleans Hotel, where conversation would be, two bells are installed; this Tricentennial, in the context of our by Tere Kirkland not only because that Tricentennial, with revolution inspired opinions varying so uprisings here, but because those greatly during such a politically aims and goals remain yet unreal- charged time. ized. But I think there’s great “In some respects I celebrate potential in the city of New Orleans the end of the last 300 years and for realizing them in our next 300 the beginning of the next, which years,” says Abdalian. will be a more exciting time,” Bells are traditionally used as Abdalian says. •

photos courtesy of the historic new orleans collection

THE beat . persona

embraced the culinary cravings of the city and provided a “cheat sheet” for those who still want to dine out through the Ochsner “Eat Fit” program, with healthy eating options at many restaurant favorites in New Orleans, Baton Rouge, the north shore and True Confession: beyond. I head to the pottery If that weren’t studio weekly. I love enough, Kimball it, it’s so calming, has taken on one relaxing, and so rewarding to create of the toughest something right challenges: then and there. the Lenten Home Malone and pledge to forgo Wilkerson Row are alcohol for forty two local stores that carry a few of days. Alcoholmy pieces; it’s the Free-for-40 coolest thing to has gained know that people momentum in like something you the past couple create enough to give it as a gift. of years, with more and more signing on to drink mocktails after Mardi Gras, with many lasting even past the challenge deadline. But don’t hold Kimball’s good intentions against her, she’s all heart and loves the soul of the city. She just wants to see us all around a little longer to enjoy it healthy and whole.

Molly Kimball A Cheat Sheet For Eating Fit by Ashley McLellan

olly Kimball has perhaps one of the most challenging jobs in New Orleans: to provide dietary and healthy living advice to New Orleanians. Let’s face it, advising a population of people in a city where there’s

a festival for every major New Orleans food group - and there are many, from fried chicken to beignets, poorboys, seafood, daiquiris and more - cannot be an easy task. As a licensed nutritionist, Kimball has

New Orleans and New Orleanians are obsessed with food. How do you approach nutrition in a town that is so food-oriented? It’s all about finding what drives and motivates people to be their healthiest, strongest selves; recognizing and respecting that what works for one person may not work for others. We also can’t be finger-wagging or judgy when it comes to nutrition – especially here in New Orleans – nobody wants that. I’m grateful to have so many opportunities to have a positive impact on the health and wellness of our community. In addition to one-on-one nutrition counseling, our team of dietitians also runs Eat Fit NOLA, a nonprofit initiative of Ochsner Health System. When I first started the nutrition program at Ochsner Fitness Center nearly 20 years ago, I held my breath and crossed greg miles photo

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my fingers that it would stick, and the journey has been rewarding beyond words. New Orleans has been accused by some by not having any “healthy options” (hello: KALE), how do you respond to that? There’s no doubt that we have an abundance of notso-healthful options – that’s just part of our culture, our history, and isn’t going to change – nor should it, necessarily. There are plenty of quintessential New Orleans staples, like local seafood, red beans and greens that can easily be among the top healthful foods around, depending on how they’re prepared. With Eat Fit, our motto is “indulge without the guilt!” With nearly 100 Eat Fit NOLA partners, we’re thrilled that so many restaurants now offer incredible dishes that are Eat Fit-approved, meaning no white carbs, very little (or no) added sugar, reduced sodium, and lower in animal-based saturated fats. And to make it even easier, we have a new Eat Fit smartphone app. Now that we have made it through Carnival, people look to kickstart healthy eating and less or no drinking alcohol. How do you suggest people get started? Each year we organize the #AlcoholFreeFor40 challenge, a free community initiative centered on not only giving up alcohol for the 40 days of Lent, but also making it our own self-experiment. The response has been amazing, and the #AlcoholFreeFor40 Facebook group page has become a great resource for inspiration and support as participants share their personal tips, challenges and victories. And whether it’s giving up alcohol, sugar, carbs, or any other nutritional change or plan you decide on, the key is to make a very specific, conscious effort to focus on the small, daily benefits you experience. Too often we set these gigantic long-term goals, and it’s discouraging when we’re not there immediately. Even if your goal is to 30

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lose a certain number of pounds, for example, focus on the daily benefits of fueling your body well. Clearer thinking, better mood, sounder sleep, healthier-looking skin, less bloating, less reflux, not feeling the usual afternoon energy slump – these are the daily improvements that can motivate us to stick with our new plan, even if the scale isn’t moving as quickly as we’d like. What do you love about New Orleans, other than the food? Everyone always says “the people” – and it’s so true. We’re warm, we’re welcoming, we’re unapologetically over the top. There’s always a celebration going on with something new to experience, and unique, interesting people to meet, learn from and be inspired by. •

At a Glance Age: 43 Profession: Registered dietitian & nutrition journalist: Nutrition Manager at Ochsner Fitness Center. Weekly columnist for NOLA.com/The Times-Picayune and weekly TV segment on WGNO’s Good Morning New Orleans Education: LSU; B.S. Nutrition & Dietetics, B.S. Food Science & Technology, licensed registered dietitian Favorite Book: “Thrive” by Arianna Huffington Favorite Food: There are so many. But as for dinner, it’s often seared salmon when I’m home, and filet when I’m out (cooked “black and blue” style: charred on outside, rare on inside) Favorite TV Show: Ellen Favorite Restaurant: This is impossible to answer! We work with so many incredible chefs and restaurant owners who offer amazing food and experiences, there’s really no way to pick just one. Uchi Sushi is one of my weeknight staples when I’m looking for takeout. They’re one of our Eat Fit partners, plus we can walk there from our house.

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THE beat . biz

Stage Center Concert trends bring big names to local stages By Kathy Finn

verybody loves to look back on an event that impressed them so much it had them recalling the details for years after. For many people, big music concerts have that effect. And the good news for locals is that more big-name entertainers are making tour stops in New Orleans these days than ever before. The dozens of stars already scheduled for local concerts this year includes the likes of Taylor Swift, Ed Sheeran, Sam Smith, Luke Bryan, The Eagles, Maroon 5 and Shania Twain. And that lineup follows on a blockbuster 2017 concert schedule highlighted by U2, Bruno Mars, Jay-Z, Tim McGraw and Faith Hill, Neil Diamond, Billie Joel, Lionel Richie and Mariah Carey, and the Red Hot Chili Peppers. 32

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It almost seems an embarrassment of riches compared to the paucity of live concerts that locals had to content themselves with during recent decades. So what gives? The answer lies in a combination of local business factors and worldwide live entertainment trends. Performers of global stature have long been interested in New Orleans because of its deep-rooted musical traditions and multigenerational talent pool. Many such entertainers have headlined stages at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, among other events, so the Big Easy is no stranger to them. But live concerts by music megastars require massive promotion, and for many years New Orleans was hampered in that respect.

Major concert promoters generally worked from offices in larger cities, and they focused their efforts in those locations, say Dallas or Atlanta, rather than reaching into smaller markets. The local dynamic shifted a few years ago when a major concert promoter opened a New Orleans office. Live Nation Entertainment, the world’s largest live entertainment company, sank roots here in 2015, not long after acquiring a majority interest in Voodoo Fest, an annual festival held in City Park. Live Nation, which holds stakes in dozens of well-known music festivals, produces thousands of individual concerts around the world every year. And once the company added New Orleans to its roster of business offices, the power of a global promoter and

ticket-seller suddenly came to bear on the local market. In the coming year, Live Nation, which formerly promoted only a handful of concerts in New Orleans, will bring several dozen events to the Smoothie King Center, Mercedes-Benz Superdome, Saenger Theatre and UNO Lakefront Arena. Another factor putting momentum behind local concerts is the same one that led Live Nation to open its local office: Consumer interest in live music concerts is growing, and one way to feed that appetite is to promote concerts in many more locales. Live Nation, which a few years ago acquired the big ticket broker Ticketmaster, has become laserfocused on providing high-quality concert experiences in hundreds of cities and using the concerts to promote its artists and increase ticket sales for all the events it controls. A recent report by data provider Statista noted that even as sales of “physical” music, such as CDs, have declined, “the concert industry remains healthy.” Revenue from concert ticket sales has soared during the past 25 years, hitting a total of $8 billion last year. The most successful music tour of the year was U2’s Joshua Tree Tour, which generated gross revenue of $175 million and drew more than 1.5 million people to stadiums around the world. Meanwhile, Live Nation’s multifaceted promotional strategy, which includes an expanding repertoire of concert locations, festivals and mobile ticketing and streaming apps, continues to pay dividends. The publicly traded company reported that ticketing revenue rose 15 percent last year. Live Nation said it sold 97 million tickets worldwide in just the first six months of 2017. •

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THE beat . education

Theresa Cross Looking for A Challenge… And Finding it By Dawn Ruth Wilson

heresa Cross, a winner of the nation’s most prestigious education award, the Milken Educator Award, took an unconventional route to teaching. In fact, it all started with a random Google search. Overcome with boredom in her working life, Cross typed in these words: Challenging jobs in New Orleans. She found one: teaching high school math in a school known for violence and poor student achievement. To make matters worse, it was 2006, just after Katrina,

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the most challenging period for education in New Orleans history. Only 24 at the time, she joined other inexperienced, first year teachers instructing hundreds of fight-prone teenagers in makeshift trailer classrooms. Students didn’t have textbooks or supplies. Now, 12 years later, she is on her way this month to Washington D.C. to join about 40 other teachers nationwide to celebrate winning the Milken Family Foundation’s 2017, $25,000 educator award. On what seemed like a routine day this past December, she went

to a ceremony in the Alice M. Harte Charter School gym that turned out to be all about her. In the secretly planned event, Lowell Milken, a foundation founder, presented her a Milken Educator Award, an achievement often compared to winning a Pulitzer Prize. Later that night, still stunned by the day’s events, she found out she’d also passed a certification test that qualified her to move into school administration. “It was the best day of my teaching career,” Cross remembered. That day was also stellar for Harte, a K-8 school located in Algiers. “It’s a high point for our culture,” Robert Hill, Head of School, said. “All the things we hold dear, she personifies all that.” Cross’ math students have a long history of testing “basic” or above on the state’s pressurized LEAP tests. That 100 percent passage rate ranks well above the state average and higher than other top scoring faculty at Harte. “No one else is at that level,” Hill said. That student achievement led Hill and InspireNOLA, Harte’s charter management organization, to recommend Cross for the Milken award. Documentation that supported the recommendation indicate that Cross achieved these results with practical, hands-on activities.

The “real life” assignments she uses include racing beetles to teach mapping distances. Another assignment involves using the novel “The Most Dangerous Game” to teach making graphs. A native of Ohio, Cross said that when she moved to New Orleans after Katrina, she had planned to pursue a dream of operating a concert location. She had just completed an MBA and thought that New Orleans would offer more job opportunities connected to that dream than Cleveland. She soon discovered otherwise. After a job search that produced nothing, she took a position as a programming assistant at WYES. That job didn’t satisfy her need for challenge, so she completed a teachNOLA program that certifies college graduates to teach in New Orleans schools. Now that she has reached “master teacher” status and has a Milken to her credit, she’s dreaming again, this time about impacting math instruction nationally. She wants to convince educators to adopt a math curriculum that includes a course in financial literacy. She says young people need to learn about everyday financial matters such as maintaining good credit scores and how to budget. “I started to dream bigger,” Cross said. “Probably too big, but that’s okay.” •

craig mulcahy photo

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THE beat . health

and very bottom of Africa, I usually don’t recommend any specific immunizations. I do often recommend packing some antimicrobials to have on hand just in case. Even though resistance is growing, Cipro can be trip-saving if traveler’s diarrhea strikes. Doxycycline is an antibiotic that covers the waterfront against many bacterial pathogens. It will even hold the fevers from malaria at bay. Malaria is a real risk for some When? To Where? And Why? travelers, but most folks reading By Brobson Lutz M.D. this magazine will never need travel medications for its prevention. Even for travel to countries ot an itch to visit an exotic for travel, along with boosters for have access to safe food and with active malaria, most seasoned portion of the globe this polio and MMR (measles, mumps, water. Simple precautions such travelers prefer mosquito avoidsummer? In many physi- and rubella) is usually guilding the as avoiding uncooked salads, ance and liberal applications cian offices, including mine, calls lilly, but there may be situations sticking to bottled water and a of 30-50 percent DEET to keep about international travel peak when booster immunizations are good mosquito repellent in insect mosquitos away. More intense in March and April. Now is the needed to augment “baby shots” prone areas are protection enough malarial prophylaxis is indicated in most major cities of the world, for vacations to African game time to plan for special medical from long ago. All health travel recommen- even when sanitation and food parks, jungle explorations around precautions and immunizations. Travelers to Europe and ports dations start with an itinerary hygiene might not be up to par. the Amazon, and for workers stationed abroad. In of call in most major cities of the review. A mere list of countries to Street food is always world usually need nothing more be visited is not enough. Which a lure. Avoid anything addition, persons on For more than what is needed for a trip specific cities and regions does the raw or unpeeled, but extended stays or specific immunization to New York or Chicago. Make trip include? Will you be in a devel- I for one cannot pass and cost information, staying with families in sure to hand-carry, rather than oped urban area or in the sticks? up cooked food from other regions including visit our website at myneworleans.com/ check, any prescription or other What is the duration of the trip and street vendors. Fried India, might want to health. what are the planned activities? fish in Cartagena, consider specific medications. malarial preventives. As for immunizations, certain What type of lodging is involved? fried insects from a updates may be needed even for a What are the travel arrangements food stall in Bangkok and steamed Consumer beware. Hospitals trip from Chalmette to the French within the country? Will the visit snails from a vendor in Morocco and large clinics have turned Quarter. Everyone needs an annual include jungle, mountainous, or come to mind. travel immunization clinics into influenza immunization. Some otherwise remote terrain? Most insurance companies do centers for revenue enhancement, younger new grandparents are Most travelers, gone one week not cover travel consultations and and the unsuspecting traveler being told they need T-dap updates and back in a couple of weeks, immunizations. For short-term can easily spend more for travel for diptheria, tetanus, and whop- are at low risk for any prevent- grand hotel tours to Asia, Central immunizations, often unnecessary, ping cough. Administering these able infectious diseases if they and South America, and the top than airfare. •

Travel Immunization

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THE beat . chronicles

Market Hunting The business that almost spoiled the Sportsman’s Paradise by Carolyn Kolb

ohn James Audubon spent part of the winter of 1821 in New Orleans painting portraits and giving art lessons in the French Quarter, but mainly continuing his quest to depict every species he could of American birds. Audubon was a careful observer of birds in the wild, but he usually used a bird’s carcass as a model. An avid hunter himself, Audubon also hired hunters and gave explicit directions for his needs. While in New Orleans, he paid $25 a month to a hunter named Joseph to furnish bird specimens. But, Audubon had another source for wild birds: the stalls at the French Market. On January 8, 1821, he noted in his diary that he went to the market at dawn. “We found many mallards, some teals, some widgeons, Canada geese,

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snow geese, mergansers, robins, hunters firing at them for hours. “A blue birds, starlings, godwits, man near where I was seated had everything selling extremely high: killed 63 dozen,” Audubon noted, $1.25 for a pair of ducks, $1.50 guessing that perhaps 140,000 birds were brought down that for a goose.” “Much surprised and diverted day. It is not surprising that the at finding a barred owl, clean and passenger pigeon and the Carolina exposed for sale for 25 cents,” parakeet were hunted to extincAudubon added. tion by the twentieth Louisiana cooks may century. be adept at turning The French Market Up until the 20th anything into a tasty century, hunting game in the 1880s: Wild Ducks Were dish, but “owl sauce was not only a pastime, Regularly Sold in piquante” won’t make it was a business. the Stalls it onto many menus Market hunters - the these days. In the past, ones who furnished however, wildlife was so plentiful the birds in the stalls - were not that anything and everything living all self-employed outdoorsmen. was looked on as something to eat, The growth of railroads and of or to use, or as goods to be sold. ice manufacturing plants spurred On March 15, 1821, Audubon the growth of the wild game busidescribed seeing a flock of golden ness. Large corporations bought plovers passing overhead from acres of marshland in southwest dawn until dusk, with groups of Louisiana, hired hunters, and

shipped game by train to New Orleans and beyond. Some estimates have the French Market selling three million ducks a year by 1910. Although that abundant game was a staple of restaurant menus as well as home kitchens, the birds’ feathers were also a high-priced commodity. A filmy plume from the snowy egret was a soughtafter hat trimming. And, there was a brisk market in all wild birds: mocking birds, cardinals and bluebirds were sold as pets. Up until 1912, there were no limits or restricted seasons on migratory bird hunting. Finally, sportsmen and naturalists joined in a successful effort to protect Louisiana wildlife from mass extinction. A century after Louisiana became a state, the Legislature established hunting seasons in 1912, and every hunter was required to have a license. The end of the uncontrolled slaughter of Louisiana birds would finally come with the Federal Migratory Bird Act of 1918. This law - and an international treaty - protects birds, feathers, eggs and nests of some 1,000 species today. The day of the market hunter was over … except, of course, in the police reports. In 2012, a St. James Parish resident was arrested for selling wild game to a Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries undercover agent. A department spokesman explained: “The reason it’s illegal to sell or market wild game in the United States is that if you had a market, hunters would basically wipe out most of the species.” Even the owls. •

photo by Edward Wilson courtesy of the historic new orleans collection

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Local Color CHRIS ROSE . MODINE GUNCH . JOIE Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;EVE . IN TUNE . BOOK REVIEWS . JAZZ LIFE . HOME

Quasar Media photo

Music Artist Ducky

LOCAL COLOR . CHRIS ROSE

Beating The Buckets The Clatter of Bourbon Street By Chris Rose

“B

uckets of rain Buckets of tears Got all them buckets comin’ out of my ears” So said Bob Dylan back in 1975 on his classic album Blood on the Tracks. But for anyone wandering down Bourbon Street these days, those lyrics take on much more than a nostalgic romp through the treasured canon of Americana music. Bourbon Street today is a literal cacophony of buckets. If you’ve been there lately, you’ve likely seen them. Or certainly heard them. The bucket brigades are the new kings on the Boulevard of Broken Dreams. Little kids sitting on buckets, beating drum sticks on buckets, with buckets out in front of them for tips. That’s a lot of buckets. These bucket drummers are not a singularly new and novel phenom42

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enon here in New Orleans; kids have been beating buckets on the streets of Treme forever, marching in their pretend second lines until they grow up big enough to play in a real one. But, in the same way that street corner cardboardsign-holding panhandlers seemed to explode out of nowhere all at one time in the last couple years, to become more of an infestation than an isolated instance, so too have the bucket boys – and girls – of New Orleans sprung into a full-fledged movement. Tap dancing? That is so 2010. Buckets is where it’s at. Walk down Bourbon Street on any afternoon. While the preponderance of fake Mardi Gras Indians, costumed superheroes and cartoon characters - and that guy in a Saints jersey who paints himself gold and sits on a trashcan and

gives tourists the finger for tips are all still there, it’s the bucket brigades that now dominate the street scene. And sound. Street musicians are a vital element of the New Orleans identity. They provide, particularly to the visitor, the soundtrack of what they thought New Orleans was going to sound like when they got here, off their planes or out of their cabs and Ubers. Music falling from the sky like rain. Well, now it’s more of an earthquake than a gentle storm. On any day, there can be dozens of kids – adolescents to teens – beating the crap out of plastic. Once someone started doing it and making money at it, many others followed. It went from a couple of kids to a lot of kids to swarms of kids, gathering at each end of every block and also in between, each trying to out-percussion each other. And they’re loud. Really loud. Now, there is an unmistakably great Congo Square element to what these kids are doing. A great vibe of Trinidad, where they play steel barrels instead of plastic buckets. There is a drumline cachet to the sound. Syncopated, rhythmic, marching band chic. A lot of these kids, they can really play. Are they the future drummers of New Orleans great bands? Who knows, but there is undeniably a lot of talent and showmanship among these brigades as they smack the plastic and twist drumsticks around their fingers and make the beat on the street.

Some of these kids really have the knack. They know how to entertain. Some look like they are really into it. Then again, some look bored and fidgety and then, some look, at worst, like they don’t want to be there. Of course, there are always dark forces at work on Bourbon Street. Just like with a lot of the child tap dancing kids in the Quarter, just over their shoulders you will see parents leaning against a wall, hovering over them, urging them to play on and every now and then walking over to fish a handful of bills out of the tip bucket. A crime? I don’t know. Wrong? Yes. The truth is, I really like these kids, but their omnipresent noise, embattlement and don’t-give-ashitness sometimes grinds. Their syncopated, percussive, rhythmic, tribal, lively, joyous at times wall of sound can be a New Orleans act of beauty. But it’s really freaking loud. I made the mistake of walking up to a kid playing in the street recently and putting on a full force old fart white guy routine: I leaned over to drop a few bucks in his bucket and, in a moment’s pause, told him in the most patronizing tone I could summon: “Son, it’s not about playing loud. It’s about playing good.” He regarded me with cool aplomb. And as I was still bent over his bucket ensemble, he started beating the crap out of those containers so hard that my ears still ring. • Jason Raish Illustration

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LOCAL COLOR . modine gunch

sed to be, you waited until a baby was born. Then the doctor looked at its privates and said, “It’s a boy!” Or “It’s a girl!” Now you can find out way ahead of time. So you don’t have that dramatic moment in the hospital. Turns out, people miss that. So they dreamt up “reveal” parties. They do things like open a box of pink or blue balloons, or shoot off a flare with either pink or blue smoke, or — the low-cost option— the mama yanks up her shirt and reveals “boy” or “girl” written on her stomach with a marker. My sister-in-law Gloriosa is having a reveal party. I got to explain. Gloriosa is very organized. She planned her first two children exactly three years apart, and they arrived three years apart. She planned one boy and one girl, and she got one boy and one girl. This third baby was an accident. Gloriosa ain’t used to accidents. She needs to make lists and check things off: appropriate baby clothes; best baby names; theme for the baby’s room, all that stuff. But first, she needs to know the baby’s sex. Her husband, Proteus, says to relax, wait until the baby is born, let it be a surprise. She says being pregnant is surprise enough. He comes up with a compromise. After she takes the test, he will get her results in a sealed envelope and hide it. Then they can open it at a reveal party and reveal it to themselves and every44

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Gender Trender The Perils of Reveal Parties By Modine Gunch

body else. She says okay, if after her test, she will drive him to another doctor, and he will have a procedure done so there won’t be no more surprises. So that’s what they do. Naturally, Gloriosa plans every detail of this party. It will be very high-brow. She definitely ain’t yanking up her shirt. Proteus will formally present the envelope containing the test results to their oldest child, Comus, who is a good reader. Comus will open the envelope and read out the results, like at the Academy Awards. Ms. Sarcophaga, Proteus’s mother, disapproves. She says

talking about sex is low-class: just let the baby be born, and people will notice if it’s dressed in pink or blue without anybody having to come out and tell them. But she shows up at the party anyway, muttering. The rest of us have a great time eating various pink and blue refreshments, drinking pink champagne and Blue Nun (sparking grape juice for Gloriosa) and laying odds on whether it’s a boy or girl. Finally we are directed into the front yard. Proteus and Gloriosa appear on the balcony above the front porch, waving an envelope. Comus steps out in a little tuxedo, and his little sister, Momus, carts out two big boxes, one filled with

pink balloons and one with blue. She is ready to dump one or the other onto the guests as soon as Comus makes the announcement. They even have a microphone on a stand. Comus says, “The envelope, please,” and everybody holds their breath. Then in a loud, clear voice, he reads: “Post-Vasectomy Instructions: “Wear close-fitting underwear for two days to hold the bandages in place. “Place an icepack on your scrotum ...” “Wrong envelope!” Proteus yells. Momus, who has been dying to drop them balloons, dumps both boxes over the railing, which some people assume means Gloriosa is having twins. Ms. Sarcophaga slinks away. There’s a mad scramble for the right envelope (which they don’t find until the next day, in the car, between the front seats.) Gloriosa calls the doctor’s office, but it’s closed, this being Saturday. Then she calls the doctor’s cell phone, but the doctor just finished delivering triplets, and is recovering with some Johnny Walker, and can’t recall. My mother-in-law Ms. Larda tells Gloriosa to just pee on some Drain-O. It turns pink for girls, blue for boys. Never fails, she says. But Gloriosa won’t listen to that advice. So we all go home, with nothing revealed except the news about Proteus getting snipped. Actually, we do know one other thing. That was the last reveal party they’ll ever have. • LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION

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LOCAL COLOR . JOIE D’EVE

Losing a Mentor A tribute to the woman who taught me how to be a working mom By Eve Crawford Peyton

here are lots of things I’m good at – baking, math, drinking too much coffee – but making small talk in the Midwest is not one of them. I love talking to people in New Orleans, but when I lived in Missouri, I seemed to manage to say something off-color, awkward, or otherwise offensive whenever I opened my mouth. “Sure, let’s definitely order margaritas with lunch! … Oh, wait, you were joking. Haha, me, too. We don’t drink in the middle of the day – that’s crazy!” “We were all happy when my cousin left her husband … until she married his dad …” These are all things I said in Missouri only to be greeted with looks of blended confusion and horror. And this made the process 46

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of interviewing for my first real job pretty challenging. The woman who finally hired me, after months of fruitless and frustrating searching, was, of course, a hilarious, foul-mouthed Louisiana native who also had no filter or Midwestern sense of decorum. Her name was Bev, and we took to each other immediately. Although I got along with (almost) all of my coworkers – I made several real, lasting friendships; Bev and I had a special bond. We always brewed a separate pot of coffee for just us because no one else in the office would drink it as strong as we liked it. We hated the cold weather and took it as a personal affront. We had colorful family stories that we loved to tell, always trying to

one-up each other. We had a deep side I’d nursed on last. affection for the F word and strong Of course I worried that this passion for food (but disdain for made me a terrible mother. And Bev assured me that it most certainly typical Missouri food). She was unapologetically blunt did not. “You’re not leaving her and once ordered me out of her home alone in a closet,” she said. office – “I can’t even look at you “She’s fine. She’s being cared for by right now!” – because I innocently people who love caring for babies asked her who Andrew Lytle was. and are better at it than you are. When she calmed down, she You’re better at this. So am I. Now came into my office and taught get back to work.” me a lesson I admittedly should And when my ex got a job in have learned earlier but still have New Orleans and we decided that never forgotten: “Do your f*cking I’d stay home with Ruby, Bev came research.” There was no decent into my office. excuse for me asking my boss a “I’m not gonna tell you your busiquestion I could have answered ness,” she said, “but I remember through a simple Google search. that crazy look in your eye when And now I know a great deal about you came back from maternity not just Andrew Lytle but all of the leave. I don’t think staying home Southern Agrarians. Just ask me would be a good idea for you.” about John Crowe Ransom! “No, no, it is!” I insisted, and She had simple tastes: I once to her credit, she didn’t argue tried to impress her with a batch with me, just sent a skeptical look of homemade hazelnut truffles over her shoulder as she walked for Boss’ Day, and she gave them away. I realized, though, that she away to our other coworkers. “I like was right, and as soon as she was Hershey’s,” she said. “Or M&Ms. I gone, I started looking for jobs in only like the cheap stuff.” New Orleans. The very first one Most important, though, she that popped up on my search was taught me about being a working to edit Louisiana Life and New mother. She was, she told me, back Orleans Homes & Lifestyles, and at work four days after giving birth. I stayed late at work to fire off a “That’s not going to happen,” I cover letter, giddy with excitement. told her. “I get 12 weeks, and I’m The interview with Errol went beautifully because I am capable of taking them.” “Fine, but if you don’t come talking to people in New Orleans, back, I’m kicking your ass,” she and having Bev as my reference sealed the deal. If she hadn’t come said. I actually came back a week in right at the moment she did to early because I was going crazy hassle me about not leaving the stuck inside my house in the work force, my life and career path freezing Missouri winter with no would have been very different. I learned that Bev real adult interaction. died in December, and I had thought I’d miss my daughter something Excerpted from Eve I was obviously sad – Crawford Peyton’s terrible, and I did – sort but I was pleased to blog, Joie d’Eve, of – but I also loved see that she died in which appears each Friday on being able to drink Louisiana. She, like MyNewOrleans.com a cup of hot coffee me, understood the without worrying about value of coming home. splashing it on her head. I loved I hope she’s up in heaven telling having two hands to type. I loved stories, eating M&Ms, cursing, using my brain to do something and lecturing absolutely everyone other than try to remember what about Southern literature. • jane sanders illustration

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LOCAL COLOR . in tune

calendar must-see music

march 2

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds rock The Orpheum march 4

George Clinton funks up The Joy march 2

alison wonderland

Willie Nelson and Family smoke their way into the House of Blues march 10

The Music Continues Hogs for the Cause and BUKU Music + Art Project By Mike Griffith

ince we had an early Mardi Gras this year, we’ve had plenty of time to get ready for a whole other set of spring parties. Over the past few years, March has meant the return of two of my favorite events—Hogs for the Cause and the BUKU Music + Art Project. BUKU drops first over the weekend of the 9th and 10th. This is one of those rare years when the St. Patrick’s Day festivities fall on the 17th (a Sunday) and don’t overlap with BUKU, so your calendars should truly be clear. I like BUKU because the festival always goes its own way. There is a distinct sense that BUKU is not interested in being another cog in the machine of sameness that the festival circuit has become. BUKU’s focus on art and its seam-

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less engagement with its urban job of blending excellent food surroundings give it a feeling like with sublime music. This year nothing else. This year the festival they have tapped N.M.O. (North is headlined by Bassnectar, Migos Mississippi Osborne—a partner(who just dropped a great new ship between Anders Osborne and record in January) and SZA whose The North Mississippi Allstars!), debut record Ctrl was one of the the Turnpike Troubadours, Karl best records of last year. You can Denson’s Tiny Universe, Tyler also look for the return of Alison Childers and Son Little to help Wonderland as well as Borgore them mark the milestone. These and the Flatbush Zombies. I’m headliners will be joined by the particularly thrilled to see Sylvan Iko Allstars, The Stoop Kids, the Esso on the schedule. Hot 8 Brass Band and You’ll want to check more. The move out out Princess Nokia and to the Arena festival Playlist of Ducky as well. grounds has been a mentioned bands Later in the month available at: http:// welcome change for we’ll all head out the the event—giving bit.ly/InTune3-18 lakefront arena for the them a bit more room 10th anniversary of to breathe. I can’t wait Hogs for the Cause. No festival to see what culinary creations the other than Jazz Fest does a better teams cook up for us this year. •

Jamison Ross crashes into Snug Harbor march 12

The Fleet Foxes continue their reunion tour at The Orpheum march 13

Ezra Furman rips into One Eyed Jacks march 25

Caroline Rose pops into Gasa Gasa march 25

The Weeks rock Gasa Gasa Dates are subject to change; email Mike@MyNewOrleans. com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.

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LOCAL COLOR . book reviews

A Topsy-Turvy History of New Orleans & Ten Tiny Turtles

Shaya: An Odyssey of Food, My Journey Back to Israel

Bayou St. John: A Brief History

by Simone Rathle

by Alon Shaya with Tina Antolini

Arcadia Publishing

Published by Hoffman Media

Published by Alfred A. Knopf

Brennan’s Restaurant and children’s book author Simone Rathle celebrate New Orleans’ 300th birthday with a lively look at perhaps the only family of turtles to permanently reside at a restaurant – the famed lush courtyard to be exact. The family of 10 terrapin take readers on a tour through the history of New Orleans, both festive and fraught. Colorful watercolors by illustrator Tania Lee journey from the Battle of New Orleans to Mardi Gras, the birth of jazz and Hurricane Katrina. The 10 tired turtles were treated to a temporary respite at the home of Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group executive chef Haley Bitterman while restaurant renovations and courtyard preparations were completed. Their topsy, turvy journey would be complete in 2015 with the “slowest second line on earth” along Royal Street and their “green carpet” re-entrance to their beloved Brennan’s home on a custom wagon floats. This is at once a kids’ book and celebration of the city and the home of “Breakfast at Brennans.” On sale at Brennan’s Restaurant, 417 Royal Street, BrennansNewOrleans.com.

It’s been a tumultuous year for James Beard Award winning chef Alon Shaya, a convoluted case of business and brotherhood among restaurant owners in New Orleans. While we won’t delve into legal particulars or rumors, almost everyone who has dined at a restaurant helmed by Chef Shaya cannot deny his culinary talent. His food journey, or “odyssey” as he calls it, recalls his evolution as a chef, from growing up as the “new kid” in Philadelphia, to his eye-opening experiences in New Orleans during and after Katrina, to his world travels and relationships with family and friends, all of which influenced not only his food but the person he has become today. Part journal, part cookbook, Shaya: An Odyssey of Food gives readers a fascinating glimpse behind his memorable menus, along with the chef’s own personal cooking tips, recipes and remembrances.

by Cassie Pruyn

New Orleanians today are familiar with Bayou St. John for the collection of historic homes along Moss Street, the Magnolia Bridge (aka the “Cabrini Bridge”) for handsome weddings and gettogethers, the Bayou Boogaloo music and art festival, and countless picnics, volleyball games and evening strolls along its banks. But what many may not know is the rich history of the waterway and the neighborhood that surrounds it. Author Cassie Pruyn explores Bayou St. John and unlocks its secrets as a trade route and economic in-road to today’s embrace of the area for recreation and amusement.

By Ashley McLellan, Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Ashley McLellan, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005

H = Did not finish

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HH = Sort of ok, but kind of meh

myneworleans .com

HHH = Enjoyable HHHH = Really, really liked it HHHHH = Loved it; a new favorite!

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LOCAL COLOR . jazz life

A Phase of Evolution Ben Schenk and the Panorama Jazz Band By Jason Berry

ew Orleans Style – the seminal idiom, traditional jazz, if you will – is undergoing an accelerated change that seems to redefine “tradition;” the idea of stability, continuity, music that doesn’t change. “I always thought of New Orleans jazz as a phase of evolution that was over,” said clarinetist Ben Schenck, leader of Panorama Jazz Band, which is also a brass band with expanded personnel for the run-up to Mardi Gras, and when otherwise called upon. “Pops and Jelly and Sidney Bechet had their day, it seemed. When I moved here in 1985 I realized it’s a strong regional style. Some people treat it like a museum specimen. But it’s not like we have to play ‘Muskrat Ramble’ in order to be a New Orleans jazz band. People like Michael White, Evan Christopher and Tim Laughlin see it as a point of departure for their compositions, a culture of 52

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possibilities.” To that list we must add Tom McDermott and Aurora Nealand as stellar instrumentalists, adapters and composers who use New Orleans Style to reach back in time, as McDermott does in his “Bamboula” salute to Louis Moreau Gottschalk, or Nealand’s inspired tribute to Sidney Bechet on “The Royal Roses.” The sheer range by these musicians is giving the jazz tradition a pump of adrenalin, proving that a mastery of the standards can be prelude to expanding the canon with new compositions that echo the root sound. Schenck moved to New Orleans from the Washington, D.C. area after meeting White, who was on tour, and Dejan’s Olympia Brass Band. With Panorama he has carved out his own musical terrain, a sound that builds on Klezmer and Eastern European music, played by brass bands.

“In my mind, it all goes back to the instruments.” Panorama Jazz Band has six pieces, besides Ben on clarinet. Aurora Nealand alto sax; Charlie Halloran, trombone; Michael Ward-Bergemon, accordion; Patrick Mackey, tenor banjo; Matt Perrine on tuba; Doug Garrison on drums. All play with other groups and pursue other projects. Panorama’s new CD, The Next One, is a mélange of songs from Venezuela, Martinique and Colombia, interlaced with the band’s signature Klezmer sound and gypsy stylizations from the Balkans. One notable cut, “Tolú,” is an adaptation by Schenk and Dr. Michael White from the song of “Lucho Bermúdez, a Colombian clarinetist, saxophone player and big band leader who took Cúmbia, a country sound, into the city.” Schenk added three saxophonists, two trumpeters and a flugelhorn player for the sinuous Latin dance

beat. It was the redoubtable Matt Knowles of Domino Sound record store on Bayou Road who handed Schenck a mixed tape of Lucho Bermúdez’s music and said, “You gotta play this.” Schenck obeyed. Here we are. Panorama finances the studio time and disc unit costs with a recording-a-month to your computer for a fee of your choosing. “I discovered Bandcamp, a platform that facilitates subscription fees. You go to our website (Panoramajazzband.com) and follow the link to Song of the Month. It takes you to Bandcamp, you enter at whatever rate you’d like. We have people at various levels and gifts.” Panorama plays weddings, crawfish boils and parties besides club dates at home and on the road. The monthly email from Bandcamp is accessible by i-phone app. All in the culture of possibilities. • greg miles photo

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LOCAL COLOR . home

Left: Edwards lightened the inside of the house, which has windows on one side only, with white paint and had all of the chandeliers cleaned; she also removed heavy dentil crown molding from the tops of the walls and left the millwork and floors with a natural finish for contrast; sofa, Joss & Main, painting over mantel by Bill Gingles, from Gallery Orange.

Love at First Sight Elizabeth and Brad Edwards’ French Quarter retreat By Lee Cutrone

lizabeth and Brad Edwards already loved New Orleans when they decided to look for a second home. The couple, both of whom were raised in Louisiana, married in New Orleans and lived

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here while Brad went to medical school and did his residency. Houston became home for the Edwardses and their two children, now ages 16 and 14, but during Christmas 2012, inspired by the

family’s New Orleans-themed Christmas ornament, Elizabeth suggested the couple buy a homeaway-from-home in the Big Easy. In less than a month, she connected with a realtor and went to see

a 19th century Creole cottage in the French Quarter that had been languishing on the market for three years. She immediately fell in love with the house and its charming courtyard. Brad, however, needed some convincing. Months passed before the couple committed to buying the property, which was in serious need of structural repairs and maintenance. A previous owner had renovated the bathrooms, but a poorly executed balcony enclosure needed to be removed and there was termite damage. Nevertheless, the couple took the plunge and enlisted John-Alexis Crouch of French Quarter Renovations to do the work. “He was amazing,” said Elizabeth. “His attention to detail was impeccable.” The couple also worked with the View Carre Commission, Albert Architecture and structural engineers at Morphy Makofsky to renovate the house with respect for its architectural integrity. The original portion of the house is believed to have been the freestanding kitchen to the house next door, with an addition made later,

Greg Miles photographs

Left: Exposed beams, brick walls and wooden floors impart Old World character; Elizabeth had the chandelier refurbished and lowered and found that the dining table and chairs handed down by her husband’s father were a perfect fit for the shape of the space; the Chanel painting on the wall along the stairwell is by Robert Mars, from Gallery Orange. Bottom: Elizabeth Edwards sits in the courtyard of her French Quarter cottage furnished with antique iron furniture and accented with several fountains; fountain and statues from American Aquatic Gardens.

and the courtyard is proportionally larger than many because a second building that once occupied part of the property is no longer there. A plaque on the exterior of the house notes that local architect and Vieux Carre property owner Leon Impastato, once lived in

the house. The Edwardses wasted no time moving in, even while the renovations were underway. Elizabeth used a single shade of white to lighten and prime the interior for art, then brought in the furnishings she had been culling since first

seeing the property five months earlier. “It’s funny, I started collecting and buying things for the house before I even owned it,” she confessed. “When we moved in, I had everything to completely decorate it except the art.” Because it was a second home,

she decided to buy anchor pieces such as sofas from affordable on-line sites such as Joss & Main. That left room for splurges on period antiques such as the armoire in the master bedroom, which speak to the age of the place. Because the interior was narrow

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Facing page: Top, left: The guest room, in what was once service quarters, is accessed via the balcony overlooking the courtyard; the bed originally belonged to the Edwardses’ daughter; Elizabeth gave it a New Orleans flavor by adding a crown-like canopy draped with mosquito netting ordered online. Top, right: The kitchen had been renovated when the Edwardses bought the house. The beams are original. The Edwardses painted the cabinets and changed the cooktop. Elizabeth found the chair and tables in Houston. Bottom, left: The second-floor dormer carves a sunlit cove in the master bath, furnished with simple white sheers, an antique washstand and a mirror that echoes the shape of the fleur de lis towel below. Bottom, right: Elizabeth used an antique baker’s table from Moss Antiques as a bar in the dining room; painting by Grant Schexnider. This page: The guest bedroom’s bed, mirrored dressers used as side tables and rug are all from One Kings Lane; the painting above the bed is by Kurt Pio, from Gallery Orange. On the far wall, painting by Ashley Longshore, also through Gallery Orange; the armoire visible on the left is from Antiques de Provence.

and dark with few windows, she used mirrors to reflect light and open the space. She also recycled pieces from her Houston home

and inherited pieces, such as the dining table and chairs, which had belonged to Brad’s father. Where possible, she played to

the romantic history of the French Quarter with appropriate flourishes. The guest room’s antique reproduction bed, which formerly occupied her daughter’s room is Houston, is now draped with a canopy of mosquito netting ordered online. As a counter-balance to the more historic elements, she opted for contemporary, mostly abstract art, which like the house itself, was a serendipitous love-at-first sight discovery. While walking down Royal Street one day with her son, Elizabeth stumbled upon Gallery Orange and ended up buying multiple paintings from that first visit. The gallery has since become her go-to French Quarter source for contemporary art and its owner, Tracy Geilbert, has become a close friend. Other favorite destinations for home

décor include Moss Antiques and Lucullus. The Edwardses’ house, which had two bedrooms and two baths when they bought it, now has three bedrooms (Elizabeth turned the front entrance into a room with a daybed) and two and a half baths. The family uses it frequently for holidays and weekend get-aways. Brad enjoys fly-fishing in Louisiana waters; Elizabeth’s favorite local pastime is sipping coffee in her peaceful courtyard. “We love the Audubon Cottages,” said Elizabeth of the French Quarter hotel, comprised of seven secluded 18th century cottages, which served as a model for the pied a terre. “My goal was for this to be as beautiful as they are. But I think it’s even better.” •

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You must see these milkshakes to believe them, extravagant goodness in a variety of flavors created at The Yard Milkshake Bar in Gulf Shores. Facebook.com/ theyardmilkshakebar

Chelsea Hoffman PHOTO

explore the coast off the beaten path By C h e r Ã© C o e n

Zip-lining Adventures

fter an unusually cold winter, thoughts naturally turn to the beach. This year, instead of the standard fare of sand, water and sun — which is awesome, mind you — get off the main thoroughfares and seek out the unexpected, the unusual and the road less traveled. They are hidden treasures throughout the Gulf Coast, from Bay St. Louis’ unique art history to butterfly havens in Navarre Beach and the expansion of Gulf State Park in Gulf Shores with it acreage of eco-diversity. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

All Aboard Train lovers have their pick of fun with the Foley Depot Museum and Model Train Exhibit in Foley, Alabama, and the Mississippi Coast Model Train Museum in Gulfport. Foley offers more than a quarter mile of track and a mile of wiring for its numerous model freight cars and passenger coaches, all housed at the 1908 Louisville and Nashville railroad station. The Mississippi Coast Model Train Museum features different model railroad scales from tabletops to outdoor trains with special events held throughout the year. The Foley train exhibit is open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays

and Saturdays and the Mississippi Coast Model Train Museum is open noon to 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Disembark in Bay St. Louis The Spanish Mission architecture of the 1929 Bay St. Louis Train Depot is the only one of its kind built by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad Company. Visitors may recognize the building from the film “This Property is Condemned” starring Robert Redford and Natalie Wood. Inside, the depot houses the county tourism bureau but also four unique exhibits: the Alice Moseley Folk Art & Antique Museum, dedicated to the life and work of the Southern

Zip-lines come in various degrees of adventures. Some offer short lines with guides to help you brake and others take you high above the tree canopy and teach you how to brake yourself. Adventures Unlimited outside Milton, Florida, veers to the latter, although visitors may tailor their experiences to fit their courage levels. For the brave, choose the three-hour trips that includes five to seven zip lines and one soaring 900 feet over Coldwater Creek. Visitors may also rent canoes to paddle Coldwater, perform ropes training and stay overnight in the resort’s cabins.

Unique Eats & Spirits

1 Chautauqua Vineyard & Winery in Defuniak Springs offers samples in its tasting room. Be sure to visit in the fall during harvest season. ChautauquaWinery.com

2 Step back in time at Stacey Drugs & Old Time Fountain in Foley, which serves up lunchtime favorites and ice cream in the oldest drugstore in Baldwin County, dating back to 1929. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even a model train making the rounds above visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heads. StaceyDrugsandOldeTymeSodaFountain. com

Pop Brothers gourmet popsicles began creating artisan frozen treats in Gulfport and are now located in Ocean Springs and sold in stores throughout the Gulf South. PopBrothers. com/

Joe Santiago serves up Cuban and American fare, plus specialty coffees at JJ Chagos in Navarre Beach. Be sure to visit for one of the best breakfasts on the Gulf Coast. Facebook.com/ JJCHAGOS

4 Step off the beach for a brew at Destin Brewery. The taproom is open for tasting Thursdays through Saturdays, with year-round small batch beers and ales, as well as seasonal offerings and pilot programs. DestinBrewery.com

Shannon Lutkins PHOTO

Unique Accommodations

1 Moor up your boat at the new Bay St. Louis Municipal Harbor, which allows boaters a quick visit to the historic town for free, depending on the length of stay. Or, for a price, your boat can be your floating hotel. In addition, the Bay St. Louis beach is pet friendly. HancockChamber.org/bay-st-louis-harbor/

2 Blakeley State Park in the Mobile-Tensaw Delta near Spanish Fort, Alabama, contains Civil War and Native American history, not to mention boat cruises and nature trails. Its new rustic-cozy cabins are affordable and well equipped and one of the cabins is pet friendly. Blakeleypark.com/

3 Henderson Beach Resort in Destin, Florida is all about location, location location. Not only is this 170-room resort located on the spectacular white sand beaches, but is remarkable for being the only resort that abuts the sprawling and pristine Henderson Beach State Park. Sunrise and sunsets cannot be matched.

Ashley McLellan PHOTO

Shell Island

folk artist; a blues exhibit; the Mardi Gras Museum and a special exhibit honoring Mississippi’s bicentennial. “It’s like a one-stop shop in the Depot,” said Latonja Ervin, director of events and marketing. Christ in the Oak St. Rose de Lima Catholic Church, the first black community Catholic Church in Mississippi, owns a long and diverse history serving German, African and Native American patrons, as well as fasci-

nating architecture and artwork. The altar base was fashioned from local driftwood, its tree roots reaching toward heaven. Behind the pulpit an African Christ floats free of earthly bonds before an oak tree in the “Christ in the Oak” mural by artist Auseklis Ozols and his student Kat Fitzpatrick. St. Rose is only open for morning and weekend Masses but a Saturday visit includes music by its nationally known gospel choir. Rocking in Gulfport

photo courtesy of Florida Department of Environmental Protection

In 1995, furniture maker Roy Dedeaux decided to build an oversized rocking chair — we’re talking something Paul Bunyan would enjoy. Outside Dedeaux Furniture in Gulfport, at its headquarters north of I-10, is the “World’s Largest Rocking Chair,” topping out at 35 feet high. There are others claiming that title as well, but Dedeaux’s chair remains a fun site to see. “People stop by every day and take pictures,” said Andy Dedeaux, who now runs the business with his brother Chuck.

The white sand beaches and emerald waters of St. Andrews State Park in Panama City is lure enough for the beach lover, but to really get back to nature jump on the shuttle to nearby Shell Island, named for the abundance of seashells once found there. Because visitors must take a boat to access the barrier island, natural sand dunes, coastal scrub forest and an inland lake remain pristine. Visitors have a chance to view nesting shorebirds, deer and the endagered Choctawhatchee Beach Mice, and other wildlife. There’s nothing except nature on this island, so all food and beverage must be brought in and trash brought out. Visitors may also reach the island via the Shell Island Express Ferry from Capt. Anderson’s Marina on the north side of St. Andrews Bay.

Gators at the Gulf

The Little Room of Walter Anderson Walter Inglis Anderson had family responsibilities at his Mississippi Gulf Coast home, but the eccentric artist preferred boating out to Horn Island where he drew inspiration from the natural barrier island off the coast of Ocean Springs. Back on the mainland and missing his island, Anderson painted a room in his house to resemble his favorite escape, and no one was allowed inside. After his death in 1965, Anderson’s wife entered the room and found the spectacular mural. The “Little Room,” along with its mural, was taken from Anderson’s cottage in 1991 and moved to the

Walter Anderson Museum in downtown Ocean Springs. Visitors may step inside Anderson’s studio and imagine the genius artist at work. The museum also offers Anderson’s artwork and that of his brothers, Peter Anderson, master potter and founder of Shearwater Pottery and James McConnell Anderson, painter and ceramist. Adjacent to the museum is the Ocean Springs Community Center, home of Walter Anderson’s largest mural. Inland oasis Several state parks dot the Florida Panhandle, most of them on the Gulf. Eden Gardens State Park, however, lies inland with frontage

along Tucker Bayou leading into Choctawhatchee Bay. The 163-acre park was once home to William Henry Wesley and his Wesley Lumber Company, which farmed the area’s longleaf pine forest until World War I. Visitors may enjoy Wesley’s 5,500-square foot home and the antiques of Lois Maxon, the last owner of the house. Gardens accent the home, which gives the park its name. Guided tours of the home are offered almost daily and the park hosts special events. Park hours are 8 a.m. until sunset daily.

Located in the heart of Gulf Shores lies one of its best-kept secrets and this year, it’s getting a major facelift. Gulf State Park stretches over 6150 acres of marshes, dunes, lakes, woodland and beaches. This spring will see a new learning campus full of educational opportunities, beachfront lodge, improved campground and picnic areas, dune restoration. An interpretive center will serve as the new park entrance with a pedestrian bridge connecting the inland acreage to the beach. Already built are trails and boardwalks around the park’s three lakes and miles of nature paths. Visitors may also enjoy the 20 modern cabins and 11 lakeside cottages.

Butterflies are free

Step inside the Panhandle Butterfly House in Navarre Beach and learn about Florida’s various species of butterflies, then emerge on to the back patio where walkways lead visitors through a garden of native plants. Butterflies are everywhere here, many lighting on visitors’ shoulders. If the time’s right, you can spot a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis. Every October it’s Monarch Madness, where monarch butterflies are tagged and released at the Butterfly House, and education programs and other familyfriendly events are held.

best new architecture Design Sensations; Business and Residential

Architecture is one of those traits that defines some cities. That is certainly true with New Orleans with its history of early buildings as distinguished as Gallier Hall and the St. Louis Cathedral. But unless cities are to just be museum pieces they must keep up with the present and with an eye on the future, even in the design of the their buildings. Our annual architecture feature is one of our oldest traditions and certainly one that we are proud of as we monitor the continuously emerging new New Orleans. So what can be said of the current architecture scene: Hotels are continuing to be in demand in the city, and this year we feature two. Also included are two projects that bring toward conclusion those arising from the catastrophe following Hurricane Katrina: the Stallings St. Claude Recreation Center and the Veterans Affairs Medical Center. By John P. Klingman . Photographed by Jeffery Johnston

Ace Hotel New Orleans

Eskew+Dumez+ Ripple; Steve Dumez, principalin-charge; Michael Glenboski, project architect; Cynthia Dubberley, project manager; Jason Richards, Mary Grace Verges, Vanessa SmithTorres, Bryan Lee, Daniel Zegel

The Ace Hotel on Carondelet Street is an enticing mix of generous accommodation and engaging architecture. It includes the adaptive reuse of a significant ninestory historic art deco-influenced building, most engagingly transforming a lofty furniture showroom into a comfortable contemporary dining space. The Josephine Estelle restaurant features outdoor dining that helps provide urban amenity on Carondelet and Lafayette streets. Up the street from the corner building is a handsome new four-story structure with an exterior faรงade of Kolumba brick - a long, thin European handcast masonry unit. The massive piers of this dark, textured brick are offset with sleek sheets of glass, some aligned with the brick and some that are set back. The proportions of the masonry openings are elegant and vary from floor to floor. On the first floor, the openings for the commercial spaces are wide, and the glazing is separated by horizontal steel awnings that shade the afternoon sun. On the second and third floors, a zinc planter box punctuates each guest room. The fourth floor caps the building in a dramatic way. The masonry piers become freestanding elements that frame the front edge of guestroom balconies. They extend upward well beyond the height of the rooms to become an open colonnade that interweaves with the sky. If the new building constituted the entire project, it would be very successful. However, as a component in a tripartite composition, that also includes a nineteen twenties garage renovated into a coffee shop, it is even richer. In addition to this fine renovation, the space between new and old structures includes a roof deck at the second floor, a quiet respite from the excitement elsewhere in the hotel, most spectacularly the rooftop bar.

New Orleans Veterans Affairs Medical Center Even larger than its neighbor University Medical Center, the VA complex has a formidable presence in the city. From the exterior along Canal Street and Tulane Avenue, its mostly dark and varying facades provide little indication of what lies inside. However, from North Galvez Street, the building begins to reveal its character. There is a large entrance court facing a similarly scaled one for the UMC across the street. This is the one element that successfully relates the two projects that otherwise have little in common except for their gargantuan scale. As one approaches the main entrance, a variety of faĂ§ade treatments is apparent. To the left there is the clear demarcation of the parking garage, and closer is a handsome blue reflective glass wall. To the right are a grey mass and a three-story wing of greenish fixed glass, vaguely reminiscent of a midcentury modernist curtain wall. Straight ahead, above the entrance canopy is a striking silvery wall projecting outward at a slight angle. After passing through an enormous, vacuous vestibule, the dramatic interior is a complete surprise. The somewhat foreboding character of the exterior is ameliorated to a remarkable degree. Directly ahead is a large information desk. Unfolding to your left and right is a tall linear volume that could provide the backbone for the entire project. A glance at the many plan diagrams provided for orientation confirms that this is the case. This elegant space also is dynamic. Although consistently three stories in height, it is more open at the downriver end that leads to the inpatient facilities. It narrows on the upriver end, and along its length are many informal lounge and gathering spaces. The first floor is reserved for uses that are less essential to the medical mission of the facility in the event of heavy flooding. Along the spine on the

Studio NOVA, A Joint Venture; NBBJ Architects; Doug Parris, partner-in-charge; AJ Montero, partner, design; Ryan Hullinger, partner, design;Â Kim Way, principal/urban design & planning; Peggy Reed, principal, project manager; Mitzi Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Amico, principal, project manager (interior); Susan Bower, principal/planning, Edwin Beltran, principal/ interior design; Jason Richardson, principal, project manager (exterior); Ed Mickelson, principal, landscape design; Steve Kopf, on-site project manager; Eskew+Dumez+Ripple; Mark Ripple, principalin-charge; Steve Dumez, design director; Cynthia Dubberley, project manager; Jose Alvarez, Adam Martin, Kim Tseng, Dru Lamb, David Demsey; Anthony Bayers, contract administrator; RozasWard Architects; Darren Rozas, partner; Patrick Horigan, principal; Ashley Doucet Congemi, Steve Ritten

second and third floors, waiting rooms for various diagnostic and treatment departments alternate with more general waiting lounges. This is in response to a special characteristic of VA facilities: that it addition to treatment centers, they are a home away from home for veterans, who enjoy spending time there. Built into the project are a number of extremely stringent post 9/11 requirements, increasing the structural resilience but also adding significantly to the project cost. It is a credit to the designers that in spite of these hidden costs, the public spaces within the building have such a high level of amenity.

Home Design: Top Residences Prominently sited on West End Boulevard, this is an urban house in a suburban location. This is evident from the interior and the garden where the intricate interplay of indoor and outdoor spaces is very effective. Of special note is the covered outdoor room that connects wonderfully with the pool area, the kitchen and dining space and the first floor study. bildDESIGN.bildCONSTRUCTS, Byron Mouton, architect; Anthony Christiana, partner and GC; Emile LeJeune, Joey Aplin, John Tyler Young, Daniel McDonald, Jason Blankenship

Home Design: Top Residences A twelve-unit project now populates much of a block near the river in the Irish Channel. The rooflines of the buildings are particularly intriguing, providing a sense of continuity, both within the project and with adjacent structures. Three of the units are nestled within the steel frame of an old warehouse. The nine townhouses are narrow, vertical and closely spaced, a kind of metal-clad urban village. OJT; Robert Baddour, Sabeen Hasan, Lauren Hickman, Margueritte Lloyd, Jessica Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Dell, Charles Rutledge, Pierre Stouse, Jonathan Tate, project team

The Julian

John P. Klingman is a registered architect and a Favrot Professor of Architecture at Tulane University. His book, New in New Orleans Architecture, is available at local bookstores.

There is a sleek contemporary mixed-use building on Magazine Street that extends the shopping street downriver along the block beyond Felicity. It is a quiet building, and its design seems almost effortless. Upon looking more closely, one notices a great deal of subtlety. Although the three-story building is dominant horizontally, each of the structural bays contains a vertical emphasis. The continuity is similar to the rhythm of the galleried townhouses on the next several blocks uptown, and architect Wayne Troyer emphasized this in describing the genesis of the project. Also of import are the canopies shading the first floor commercial spaces from morning sun. These are modulated in conjunction with the Kolumba brick clad masonry walls above, which include a brick surround that encompasses both of the residential floors. The operable windows are paired, double studioWTA; Wayne hung units, forming square just-largeTroyer, principalenough openings in the brick wall. in-charge; Nick Toward the downriver end of the Musser, design building a taller canopy marks the manager; Megan residential entrance and commodious Bell, designer; Kendall Winingder, lobby. Beyond this is a section of interior consultant; stuccoed wall with a verdant green Joe Peraino, Scott screen to mediate the scale of the Crane, Ray Croft, building in relation to its 19th century Trenton Gauthier neighbor next door. One of the unintended consequences of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s post-Katrina base flood elevation requirement for ground floors has been to complicate the relation between the curb elevation and that of the building, sometimes a good deal higher. Here the designers have cleverly ramped up the entire sidewalk along the Magazine Street edge. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve included a planting zone with native grasses that help with stormwater management and also clearly separate the grade of the street from that of the pedestrian edge.

Monroe Hall, Loyola University This project is one of the most surprising and complex transformations on a New Orleans college campus in recent memory. Originally, Monroe Hall was an ungainly modernist classroom building along Calhoun Street with yellowish fiberglass wall panels and strange rounded windows inset from protruding concrete slabs. What we see in its place today is a larger building, two stories taller, sporting a handsome brick façade that complements the dominant exterior material of Loyola’s Uptown campus. Yet, almost miraculously, virtually no occupiable spaces within the old building were demolished, and the building remained in use throughout the expansion project. Loyola engaged the venerable Chicago architecture firm Holabird and Root for their programming and science facility expertise, and they partnered with the New Orleans firm Holly and Smith. Words that come immediately to mind are “clever” and “deft,” including the intricacy of construction sequencing, building new stairways, an elevator core and rooftop mechanical spaces, before the old ones could be removed. Most surprisingly, a new façade was constructed completely around the old building, and the old exterior wall was then removed from the inside. The process is almost like the caterpillar transforming into a butterfly, and that metaphor is apt. The new façade is elegant and quite transparent, particularly on the quad side where a corridor abuts the edge. What seems to be a simple stack bond brick is actually an innovative panelized system of lightweight thin bricks that allowed the addition of two floors without overtaxing the foundations. Only at the outside corners where a cover strip is required, is it clear that the masonry is unconventional.

Holabird & Root / Holly and Smith Architects / A Joint Venture; Holabird & Root: James Baird, principal-in-charge; Ernest Wagner, project manager; Kevin Boyer, project designer; Catherine Van Leer, project architect; Holly and Smith Architects; Jeffrey Smith, principal-in-charge; Kevin Morris, project manager, Nathan Fell, project architect; Alex Sirko, specifications; Brent Baumbach, construction administration

On the inside, the project is no less compelling. A cross-axial corridor system on each floor makes navigation simple, in spite of the fact that the building contains an astounding variety of activities. These range from academic classrooms to science labs to art spaces and even a rooftop greenhouse. Particularly successful has been the complete renovation of Nunemaker Auditorium into a high quality performance space with a dedicated new lobby. Even while accommodating the extensive program, the building has generous informal spaces built in on each floor. Lounges mark corridor ends, and are marked with a vertical band of glass on the Calhoun Street façade. A mark of special care are handsome benches along the corridors, fabricated from the wood of a single live oak that had to be taken down for the expansion.

Home Design: Top Residences A strikingly contemporary dwelling nestles with two mature live oaks along a tree-lined street Uptown. The full height living room provides the focus, around which all of the individual spaces revolve. The house is a study in contrasts, beginning on the exterior where dark wood and zinc play against a subtlely-colored stucco. There are also many special details, including a floating stair along the living room edge and handsome sliding shutters on the western side. studioWTA; Wayne Troyer, design director; Megan Bell, project architect; Ross Karsen, Trenton Gauthier; Chrestia Staub Pierce; John Chrestia,Â design consultant; Kendall Winingder, design consultant

Home Design: Top Residences Extending the number of affordable contemporary dwellings in Gentilly are nine houses dubbed “The Goldfinches.” The projecting single-pitched roof on the front façade is matched by that of the high sidewall, providing a sheltering sense. Other spirited design moves include the covered entry breezeway, the panelized front windows, the bright multilite entrance door and a full height living space. Colectivo; Seth Welty, architect; Tom Holloman, Sarah Saterlee, Katie Nguyen

Cambria Hotel and Suites

Holly and Smith Architects; Jeffrey Smith, design director; Robert Boyd, project manager/project architect; Rohit Sood, Kevin Morris, Brent Baumbach, Grace Rumbley

There are a few buildings in New Orleans with two fronts. Newcomb Hall and Gibson Hall at Tulane University come to mind, with their street- and quad-facing facades. However, the new Cambria Hotel in the Warehouse District has two fronts that are quite different; both act as major entrances, one on Tchoupitoulas Street, and one on Commerce. Surprisingly, it is the Commerce Street side that has the vehicular dropoff and the direct lobby connection. Urbanisticly, this is particularly welcome because Commerce has been underinhabited for decades, since the closing of the Economy, a popular bar adjacent to the hotel site. The activity in this block of Commerce also lends some presence to the rather underappreciated Piazza dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia arch. Both street facades are brick, and each features the same protecting canopy. They are also the same height and display as the same industrially derived fenestration. However, the differences are significant. The Commerce Street wall is much longer, making for a horizontal faĂ§ade relating to the historic warehouse buildings in the vicinity. The first floor is deeply recessed for the entrance drive. On the Tchoupitoulas side, the building presentation is more vertical, and its proportions are like a larger scale version of the townhouses nearby. From the street, looking uptown, one can see the stepping of the rooms that face downriver, clad in a handsome dark metal panel. Throughout the project, the window proportions also are designed with a vertical emphasis similar to the townhouses. This is achieved by combining two stories of windows in one large masonry opening. A line of white spandrel glass marks the floor division, perhaps with excessive prominence. While the glazing recalls the handsome steel sash of early twentieth century structures, here it is curtainwall, and there are no operable windows in the building, a disturbing trend in the United States. The interior purposely displays a rugged air, with lots of exposed concrete. The floor-to-floor heights within the building are very compact, achieving seven stories within the 65 foot height limit. The first floor is a bit taller than the other floors, but hardly grand. Surprisingly, this contributes to a pleasant feeling of intimacy in the lobby bar and registration space. From here a skylit passage provides a comfortable, direct connection to the lively amenities on Tchoupitoulas and beyond.

Stallings St. Claude Recreation Center Another of the new buildings emerging as a result of Hurricane Katrina is the Stallings Community Center on St. Claude Avenue in the Ninth Ward. Although it is a substantial building with a gymnasium and several large spaces, it fits comfortably with the context of traditional one- and two-story buildings along the street. The building comes directly to the street edge with a corner entry enfronted by a small plaza. From this location the major masses of the building are all identifiable, with the lobby ahead, a dance studio along St. Claude and the gym behind. Along the right side, one sees the meeting room behind an administrative core. An Lee Ledbetter orange St. Joe brick wall with a sloping top frames Architects; Lee each of the masses. Ledbetter, principalin-charge; Tarra The intelligibility of the exterior is maintained inside. Cotterman, design The lobby is the hub, a central connector providing architect; Chris access to each of the major spaces. It is a bright space Loudon, project with strong color and daylight from clerestories and architect; Terrill the entrances. From the lobby, the activity along St. Hewett, Amy Petersen, Alissa Claude Avenue is evident; so it that on the basketball Kingsley courts, both in the outdoor space on the river side of the building and in the indoor gym directly adjacent. The gym is a dynamic space with daylight from sloped clerestories on three sides. On the river side, a substantial roof overhang shields morning sunlight. Also noteworthy are the large volumes of the dance studio and the meeting room, situated diagonally across the lobby. On a recent visit, the building was buzzing with activity. A job fair was occurring in the gym, and a good number of people were transiting the lobby. Architect Lee Ledbetter emphasized that extensive engagement by the community and city councilmember Palmer led to a successful planning process. The resulting building and its obvious embrace by the public affirms that success.

Home Design: Top Residences The Moon is the transformation of a WWII era surplus Quonset Hut, previously used for storage into a captivating residential enclave in Bywater. The heart of the project is a commodious outdoor room, partially covered by the hutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original ribbed skin and shielded from the sun by a fabric panel attached to the original curved metal struts. A stained cedar screen and a fountain provide character to the space, a quiet unexpected urban oasis. Holly and Smith Architects; Michael Holly, design architect

The Menu TABLE TALK . RESTAURANT INSIDER . FOOD . LAST CALL . DINING LISTINGS

jeffery johnston photo

NOLA Tricentennial Dish at Gabreille

THE MENU . TABLE TALK

slow roasted duck

meet the chef Greg Sonnier

Gabrielle Coming Home Again By Jay Forman

or years Gabrielle had been a restaurant without a home. In one of the longer-playing sagas in New Orleans restaurant lore, Chef Greg Sonnier’s quest for a new location had played out like a post-Katrina soap opera. After a long battle with red tape and a neighborhood

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association, Sonnier was forced to abandon his plans to relaunch Gabrielle in a spot-zoned Uptown event hall on Henry Clay. He then embarked on a series of chef gigs at notable restaurants around town, but never let go of his dream to reopen. Finally, on September 25th of 2017, it

Greg Sonnier is one of New Orleans’s most respected chefs, with a career that began in Chef Paul Prudhomme’s landmark K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen. That is where Greg met his wife Mary, also an accomplished chef. The pair has since become one of the culinary scene’s most recognizable husbandand-wife chef duos. Greg made a name for himself with the original Gabrielle on Esplanade Avenue, which he lost to Katrina. Greg then embarked on a peripatetic journey, which included executive chef stints at the Windsor Court’s high-end Grill Room and Kingfish in the French Quarter. Greg returns to his roots with Gabrielle, a return over twelve years in the making.

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happened. because it is such a good dish and “I was driving down Orleans I didn’t really know what I could Avenue and saw this corner loca- do different that could make it tion called ‘Wok and Soul’ for any better,” Sonnier said. He still sale,” Sonnier recalled. “I had no fields the occasional request to idea what that even was, but we serve it over pasta and notes that took a look.” Discovering that the some people take orders home kitchen was recently built out – a with them to make sandwiches. big plus – he was also struck by Other good bets include the the building’s character. “Looking She-Crab bisque made in the at the dining room we felt it had traditional manner with pulverso much potential – it just had ized shells strained through a some of the feel of our original chinois. Legacy dishes include his famous Oysters Gabie and his BBQ space,” he said. Sonnier’s roots go back to Shrimp Pie. Sonnier also makes K-Paul’s, and his menu has a his own sausage and charcuterie decidedly Cajun bent, with novel and uses them throughout his twists that make many dishes menu – to get a full-barreled taste unique. Take for example the consider his Tan-Douille Boudin, Ponce le Lapin, a rabbit belly which is boudin-stuffed andoustuffed with ‘dirty ille garnished with grains’ and plated homemade tasso – a over an unusuCajun trifecta. Gabrielle, 2441 ally silky sauce Gabrielle is a Orleans Ave., piquant. The dish family affair. Mary 603-2344. Mid-City/ is a refined interSonnier handles Treme; D Tues-Sat. pretation of a Cajun the business and Closed Sun & Mon.; ponce, typically a administrative side Facebook.com/pg/ GabrielleRestaurant pig stomach stuffed while their daughter with sausage. This Gabrielle (who is the variation is far more delicate yet restaurant’s namesake) handles stays firmly planted in Cajun the front-of-house. The restaurant roots. The sauce piquant gets draws an impressive crowd from finished with a splash of cream, Uptown and Mid-City as well which creates the ‘ruddy’ hue. as neighborhood residents. It is “That’s based off a trick we used open Tuesday through Saturday at K-Paul’s for their red sauce,” for dinner only. • Sonnier explained. “The taste is great but I also love what it does with the color of the sauce.” No discussion of Gabrielle would be complete without a mention of Sonnier’s slow-roasted duck, arguably his most famous creation. The ducks are stuffed with onions and rosemary and Time Honored roasted low and slow all day. Fans of Greg Sonnier’s cuisine Halfway through the process he will also enjoy Frank Brigtsen’s pours off the rendered fat and restaurant Brigtsen’s in the adds orange juice and sherry, Riverbend. The chefs are contemthe reduction of which is used poraneous and share much of to build a finishing sauce with the same philosophies when it crimini mushrooms and roasted comes to cooking and hospitality. red peppers. The fork-tender Both offer warm, family-run duck goes over a bed of crispy operations highlighting Cajunshoestring potatoes that soften Creole fare, which should strike wherever the sauce lands. “I fear into ducks nationwide. haven’t really changed the recipe

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THE MENU . restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Kohai, Echo’s Pizza, Shahrazad Cafe By Robert Peyton

Lamb Sausage pizza

Echo’s Pizza

Osaka Kohai

Shahrazad Café

Echo’s Pizza opened recently in Mid-City; it’s a partnership between Gavin Cady and Theresa Galli of 1000 Figs and Kate Heller of Leo’s Bread. The heart of the restaurant is a wood-burning oven that turns out eight or so different beautiful, thin-crust pies, as well as bread. A small selection of appetizers changes frequently. Echo’s Pizza, 3200 Banks St.; Sun.-Thurs. 4 to 10 p.m., and until 11 p.m. on Fri. and Sat.; closed Tuesday; 267-3231, EchosPizza.com.

Long-time Prytania street sushi restaurant Kyoto closed after owner Sara Molony passed away in 2016, but late last year one of Molony’s former protégées, Kanetha Chau and her son Teddy opened Osaka Kohai in its place. The menu will be familiar to former customers, with a mix of cooked and raw Japanese dishes including the Sara roll, named for Molony. Kohai, 4821 Prytania St.; Sun. and Tues.Thurs.,11 to 9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 to 10 p.m.; 372-4135, OsakaKohai.com.

Shahrazad Café, a new Middle Eastern restaurant, opened earlier this year on Magazine street, catty-corner to Tal’s Hummus and across Bordeaux from Le Bon Temps Roulé. The menu is standard for similar local restaurants, with a couple of exceptions, including “Philly” Cheese-Steak and chicken sandwiches. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, but there is no corkage fee as I write. Shahrazad Café, 4739 Magazine St; 11 to 11 daily; 571-5003.

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THE MENU . food

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styled by photographed by eugenia uhl

Happy Hollandaise

RECIPE EGGS SARDOU

Eggs Sardou for A Lenten Brunch BY Dale Curry

Ingredients

onto a plate, remove any water

Hollandaise sauce (see recipe)

with a paper towel, sprinkle

4 tablespoons butter, divided

n keeping house for many years with my husband Doug, there are three things I never do - cut grass, wash cars and make Hollandaise sauce. As the woman of the house (and we all know a woman’s work is never done) I felt I had to declare certain jobs off-limits or I would have never gotten it all done. In the case of Hollandaise, he simply does it so well that I defer to his expertise. In New Orleans, where brunch is a ritual, Hollandaise and our famous egg dishes stand out. (Have you noticed the increase of eggs on restaurant menus? I’ve seen fried or poached eggs on gumbo and hamburgers.) March is a timely choice for a brunch with flowers blooming and temperatures reaching the comfort zone. And some Creole brunch dishes do not require meat and fit perfectly into Lenten menus. Eggs Sardou, founded at Antoine’s, is a favorite of mine, although my version does not include anchovies or truffles as the original, created by Antoine Alciatore, did. The restaurant founder also sprinkled chopped ham over the poached eggs when he designed this dish for French playwright Victorien Sardou. Creamed spinach forms the base of this Lenten version. Next comes artichoke bottoms as nests for poached eggs, and Hollandaise blankets it all. After making this luscious sauce and keeping it warm, the key to Sardou is poaching the eggs correctly. The secret? Vinegar. Before discovering

this magic, I stuck eggs to the bottom of pans, punctured many yolks and tossed several poaching pans into the trash. Just by adding a spoon of white vinegar into simmering water in any small pan that you have, you can turn out beautiful poached eggs every time. Artichoke bottoms come in a can, are easy to use and are acceptable for this dish. If you are ambitious, by all means cook your own artichokes and remove the bottoms, reserving the leaves for an appetizer or another time. But if brunching for an Irish parade or a basketball playoff and you prefer meat on the menu, just add chopped ham over the Hollandaise or sliced ham on the side. Serve with hot French bread or pain perdu (see below).

on the side PAIN PERDU

If you were born in south Louisiana in the early to mid-20th century, you probably grew up eating pain perdu for breakfast. French for “lost bread,” the name refers to the staleness of day-old bread before preservatives. Not ones to waste, French cooks soaked the bread in milk and eggs, then fried and browned it in a little butter, then sprinkled it with powdered sugar. Later in the day, Creoles finished off any remaining stale bread by making bread pudding. Try pain perdu, commonly called French toast, to accompany eggs Sardou.

1 bunch green onions, chopped 2 10-ounce bags fresh baby spinach 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup heavy cream

with salt and pepper and keep warm. 5. To assemble, heat artichoke bottoms and spinach mixture. If Hollandaise needs heating, warm slowly and stir gently until just warm. Do not overheat or it could curdle. Place 2 beds of

Salt and pepper

spinach on each plate. Top

8 artichoke bottoms, cooked fresh or canned

with 2 artichoke bottoms.

8 extra-large eggs

artichoke bottoms, and spoon

2 tablespoons white vinegar Directions 1. Make Hollandaise sauce. 2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large pot and saute onions

Place poached eggs on Hollandaise over all. Serve immediately. Serves 4. Hollandaise Sauce

Ingredients 4 extra-large egg yolks

for about one minute. Stir in

3 tablespoons lemon juice

spinach and cook over low

Salt and white pepper

heat, stirring, until spinach is

2 sticks butter

wilted. Remove from heat. 3. In a small pot, melt remaining 2 tablespoons

Directions

butter, mix in flour and

1. Prepare a double boiler with

gradually stir in cream until

warm water on the bottom.

smooth. Set over medium heat,

In the top of the boiler, whisk

stirring, until thickened. Stir into

egg yolks for several minutes.

spinach mixture and set aside.

Gradually add lemon juice

4. To poach eggs, fill a large,

while whisking and about ¼

flat skillet or shallow pot with 3

teaspoon each salt and pepper.

inches of water. Stir in vinegar.

2. Adjust water in boiler to

Bring almost to a boil. Add

hot but not boiling. Whisk

eggs one at a time, placing

continuously while adding 1

each in a small cup and gently

tablespoon at a time of butter,

dropping into the water just

waiting for each to melt before

at water level. You may have

you add the next. When all

to do this in two batches. Let

butter is added, continue

the eggs cook over hot (not

whisking until sauce is

boiling) water, until they rise to

thickened. To keep warm, add

the top of water. At this point,

some cool water to the bottom

you can turn them gently over

boiler so that it is warm, not

to cook evenly, if necessary.

hot, cover and stir frequently

Cook until white is done and

until using. Taste to adjust

yellow is still soft or runny.

seasonings.

Remove with a slotted spoon

THE MENU . last call

Mo Phoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Red Skies March Is Not About Awakening By Tim McNally

ost of the country makes use of March as a transition month between awakening from the depths of winter and the soon-to-be-fulfilled promise of spring. Not so around here. While we did have some difficult and unreasonably cold weather this winter, the parties went on, and so they still do in March. Our festivals will be honoring an Irish Saint, an Italian Saint, the joys of Bourbon, the pleasures of Belgian beer, remembering a great literary figure, for the love of pork, praising all kinds of music, tacos and then running in the Classic to make us feel healthier. Transition month? Not March in New Orleans. Full steam ahead with the joys of living at minus 6-feet. The Gulotta Gang at MoPho, by City Park in the middle of the Metro, is always in a celebratory mood and their drink menu reflects the infectious spirits of this City, this region, the islands of the Caribbean, and Vietnam. Those are their passions in drink and cuisine, and we are the beneficiaries.

RECIPE Red Skies at Night

1.5 oz Honeysuckle Vodka 0.75 oz Lavender Hibiscus Syrup 0.75 oz Fresh Lime Juice Dash of freshly grated ginger Topped with ginger beer Mix all ingredients in order, except for ginger beer, in a mixer tin with ice. Stir well. Pour into a tall glass. Top with ginger beer. MoPho, 514 City Park Boulevard, 482-6845, Mophhonola.com.

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THE MENU . dining listings H= New Orleans Magazine award winner

Abita Springs Abita Brew Pub Gastropub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery.“Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$ Akers Middendorf’s Seafood Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Hwy. 51 S., (985) 386-6666, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$ Avondale

H Mosca’s Italian 4137 Hwy. 90 W., 4368950, MoscasRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$ Bywater H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 676-8482, PizzaDelicious.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant , that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. Outdoor seating a plus. $

H Mariza Italian 2900 Charters St., 598-5700, MarizaNewOrleans.com. D Tue-Sat. An Italian-inspired restaurant by chef Ian Schnoebelen features a terrific raw bar, house-cured charcuterie and an array of refined adult beverages served in the industrial/contemporary setting on the ground floor of the Rice Mills lofts. $$$ Carrollton Bourré AMERICAN 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040. L, D Tue-Sun.“Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$ Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L WedSun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak St. serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $ City Park Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$ Morning Call Bakery/Breakfast 56 Dreyfous Dr., City Park, 885-4068, NewOrleansCityPark.com/in-the-park/ morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $ CBD/Warehouse District H Annunciation Louisianian Fare 1016 Annunciation St., 568-0245, AnnunciationRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined 88

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$ = Average entrée price

$ = $5-10

sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$ Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, BaliseNola.com. L Tue-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Carefully crafted fare fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

H BH Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$ H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$ Café Adelaide Louisianian Fare Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CafeAdelaide.com. B, L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for business-people and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$ Calcasieu Specialty Foods 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For large and small gatherings, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous. Chophouse New Orleans Steakhouse 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski feature Cajun and Southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine Reservations recommended. $$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks.com. L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D daily. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020,

$$ = $11-15

$$$ = $16-20

$$$$ = $21-25

DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$ Gordon Biersch Gastropub 200 Poydras St., 552-2739, GordonBiersch.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowdpleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ Johnny Sanchez World 930 Poydras St., 304-6615, JohnnySanchezRestaurant. com. L, D daily. Contemporary Mexican mecca offering locally sourced produce accompanying the Bistec a la Parilla. Popular happy hour and downtown locale next to South Market District add to the appeal. $$$

H La Boca Steakhouse 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 3782840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Manning’s AMERICAN 519 Fulton St., 5938118. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. A partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up, with a menu that draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South. $$$

H Merchant Bakery/Breakfast 800 Common St., 571-9580, MerchantNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Coffee, creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $ Morton’s The Steakhouse Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$ Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long

$$$$$ = $25 & up

lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, Mulates.com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. B, L, D daily. Cassic New Orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$ Q&C Hotel/Bar AMERICAN 344 Camp St., 587-9700, QandC.com. B, D daily, L Fri-Sun. Boutique hotel bar offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. B, Br, L, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night Fri-Sat. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. There are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, Sac-A-LaitRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill AMERICAN 540 Chartres St., 522-1800. B, L, D daily. A diner with local

character staffed by local characters. $ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar AMERICAN 1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons. com. L, D, daily. Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$ Warehouse Grille AMERICAN 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille.com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sat. Creative fare served in an art-filled environment. Try the lamb spring rolls. $$ Victory Gastropub 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, VictoryNola.com. D daily. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$ Central City

Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ Covington Don’s Seafood seafood 126 Lake Dr., (985) 327-7111, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Popular neighborhood seafood joint offers an array of crowd-pleasing south Louisiana dishes, including char-broiled oysters and Zydeco shrimp. Kid’s Menu makes it a good choice for families. $$$ Darrow Café Burnside Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Hwy. 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$ Latil’s Landing Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Hwy. 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$ Faubourg Marigny Feelings Cafe, Bar and Courtyard Lounge Louisianian Fare 535 Franklin Ave, 446-0040, FeelingsCafeBar.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri. The All New Feelings Marigny is a complete relaunch of the much beloved “Feelings

Cafe”. Executive Chef Scott Maki has transformed the menu with an emphasis on contemporary Creole-Louisiana fare.$$$$

are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

Langlois AMERICAN 1710 Pauger St., 934-1010, LangloisNola.com. L Fri-Sat, D Wed-Sun. *Reservations only Supper club and boutique cooking school in the Marigny serves up culturally informed, farm-to-table fare with the added bonus of instruction. Open kitchen and convivial atmosphere add up to a good time. $$$

St., 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-totable alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$

H Mona’s Café World 504 Frenchmen St., 949-4115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros.The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/ Breakfast 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ The Marigny Brasserie AMERICAN 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie. com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like fried green tomatoes and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Collins. $$$ Faubourg St. John H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon

French Quarter Angeline AMERICAN 1032 Chartres St., 308-3106, AngelineNola.com. B Mon-Thu, D daily, Br Sat-Sun,. Modern southern with a fine dining focus is this bistro’s hallmark. Southern Fried Quail and Duck Confit Ravoli represent the style. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled allbeef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and

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birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/AntoinesAnnex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, BBKings.com/neworleans. L, D daily. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 529-4256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$

together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. L, D daily. Crowd-pleasing destination in the French Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$

BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$

Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 5254455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$

620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$

Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. D daily, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. L, D daily. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$

Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters. com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola. com. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$ Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, TheCrazyLobster.com. L, D daily. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come 90

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H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111,

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$

Specials from the Commander’s Group

Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Open late, this chefdriven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$

restaurant spotlight

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse

Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak.com. L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes. Reservations accepted. $$$ Hard Rock Café AMERICAN 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, HardRock.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$

The restaurants in the Commander’s Family group are well known as some of the best in the city, along with some of the best specials in town. F’rose Friday takes place every week in the SoBou French Quarter courtyard. SoBou’s signature frozen rose cocktails are served with tasty bites, while the Dapper Dandies play some jazzy beats. Over in the CBD at Café Adelaide, Thursday night is Neighborhood Night, when anyone working or living in, or just visiting the area, can stop by for $3-6 snacks and sips from 3-8 p.m. At Commander’s Palace, Dan Davis, the wine mastermind behind the recent Wine Spectator Grand Award, just introduced a new wine list. SobouNola.com, CommandersPalace.com, CafeAdelaide.com.

House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues. cheryl gerber photo

com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$

muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$

H Italian Barrel Italian 430 Barracks St., 569-0198, ItalianBarrel.com. L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$ Killer Poboys Louisianian Fare 811 Conti St., 252-6745, KillerPoboys.blogspot.com. L, D Wed-Mon. This quasi-popup operating out of the Erin Rose Bar serves some of the city’s best poor boys. $ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 5985005, KingfishNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chefdriven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafoodcentric destination on Bourbon Street. $$$

H Marti’s French 1041 Dumaine St., 5225478, MartisNola.com. L Fri, D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with elegant “Old World” feel. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Enjoy local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-behaunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, NapoleonHouse.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned Europeanstyle café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas. A Sazerac or Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730

Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$ Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/ restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

H R’evolution Italian 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill Italian 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. B, D daily, L Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a jazz brunch. $$$ Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant

Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 586-0972, RichardFiskes.com. B, Bar Lunch daily. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-andBacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$ Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. B Mon-Fri, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Brunch Sat-Sun. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le

Petite Théâtre. $$$

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/ dining.html. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, TheBombayClub.com. D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare 823 Decatur

L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$ Lacombe H La Provence French 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, LaProvenceRestaurant.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Time-honored Provençal cuisine rewards guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$ Lakeview H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D daily. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$ Lakeview Harbor Burgers 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $

St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly sixcourse table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

Lakeview Pearl Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 6300 Canal St., 309-5711, LakeviewPearl. com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this AsianFusion restaurant. $$

Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$

2633, MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. This place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$

District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders.com. B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $ Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri-Sat. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Gretna H Tan Dinh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008. B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 224-

Lower Garden District

H The Green Fork Vegan/Vegetarian 1400 Prytania St., 267-7672, GreenForkNola.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarian-friendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$ The Tasting Room Gastropub 1906 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans. com. D Tue-Sun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar. $$ Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 1501 St. Charles Ave., 522-4647, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$ Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$

H Oak Oven Italian 6625 Jefferson

Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

Highway, Harahan, 305-4039, OakOvenRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Wood-fired pizza and seasonal Italian cuisine with a locavore philosophy brings respite to the burbs. Family friendly with patio seating to boot. $$

Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$

Kenner H Fiesta Latina World 1924 Airline Drive, 469-5792, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B,

Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. L, D daily. Classic American cuisine including

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steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$

top-notch desserts. $$$$$

café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Fri. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this familyfriendly neighborhood spot. $$$

Sucré Specialty Foods 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. CaffeCaffe.com Healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $

Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$

Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Heritage Grill AMERICAN 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, HeritageGrillMetairie.com. L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office crowd offers an express two-course lunch along with its regular menu. $$ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 714 Elmeer Ave., 896-7300, MartinWineCellar.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers, soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

H Royal China Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 600 Veterans Blvd., 831-9633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris.com. L Fri, D daily. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and

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restaurant spotlight Galatoire’s 33 – A New Nola Classic By Mirella Cameran

Mid-City

H Blue Dot Donuts Specialty Foods 4301 Canal St., 218-4866, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.

H Café Minh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring fusion to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$

H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $ Juan’s Flying Burrito World 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hardcore tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$

Galatoire’s isn’t just a place to go for dinner - it’s a location for a classic NOLA experience. Now the adjacent Galatoire’s “33” Bar & Steak restaurant is an equally tempting option. Its large glass windows look onto Bourbon Street making it the perfect spot to watch the colorful world of New Orleans go by. If you have the time and appetite, you can indulge in a sumptuous steakhouse dinner. Alternatively, just hang out at the ‘33’ bar catching a football game and a burger. Executive Chef Michel Sichel ensures all bites large and small are brilliantly executed. The happy hour drinks, food specials and seasonal cocktail menus make it a must-go if you’re in the Vieux Carre. Galatoire’s33barandsteak.com

H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. cheryl gerber photo

L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 482-

H Taqueria Guerrero World 208 N.

7743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. BYOB $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City

Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$

Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-andmatch pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys. com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park Italian 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe. net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845 N.

Trèo Gastropub 3835 Tulane Ave., 304-4878, TreoNola.com. L Fri-Sat, D daily. Craft cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully composed libations. $$ Multiple Locations Byblos World Multiple Locations, ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$ Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast Multiple Locations, CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso

drinks and pastries. $ Copeland’s Louisianian Fare Multiple Locations, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian Multiple locations, LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood Multiple Locations, MrEdsRestaurants. com/oyster-bar. L, D daily. A seafood lover’s paradise offers an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$ Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Multiple Locations, Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$ Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN Multiple Locations, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads,

side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$ Northshore Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 246-6155, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Dakota AMERICAN 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 892-3712, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. L Tue-Fri, D M on-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$

H Del Porto Ristorante Italian 501 E. Boston St., (985) 875-1006, DelPortoRistorante.com. L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of locally sourced meats and produce. $$$ Gallagher’s Grill Louisianian Fare 509 S. Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$ Riverbend H Ba Chi Canteen Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 7900 Maple St., 373-5628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try the caramelized pork “Baco”. $

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, Boucherie-Nola. com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet

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offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

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major holidays. $$ Chiba Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Chiba-Nola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$

Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. L Sat-Sun, D Tue-Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L ThuFri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$

H Chill Out Café Asian Fusion/Pan Asian

Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Awardwinner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

729 Burdette St., 872-9628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this affordable college-friendly hangout. $

H Cowbell Burgers 8801 Oak St., 298-8689, Cowbell-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites. $$ Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket.com. B, L, D daily. Historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$ Uptown Amici Italian 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, AmiciNola.com. L, D daily. Coal-fired pizza, with an impressive list of authentic and Creole Italian specialties as well. $$

H Ancora pizza 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, AncoraPizza.com. D daily. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$ H Apolline Louisianian Fare 4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, ApollineRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences. $$$ Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$

H Café Abyssinia World 3511 Magazine St., 894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$ Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Casamento’s Louisianian Fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Thu-Sat, D Thu-Sun. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all 94

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H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, CoquetteNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$ Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys.com. D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$ Domilise’s Louisianian Fare 5240 Annunciation St., 899-912. L, D Mon-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $ Frankie & Johnny’s Seafood 321 Arabella St., 243-1234, FrankieAndJohnnys.net. L, D daily. Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kid-friendly. $$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$ Jacques-Imo’s Cafe Louisianian Fare 8324 Oak St., 861-0886, Jacques-Imos.com. D MonSat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$ Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Jung’s Golden Dragon Asian Fusion/ Pan Asian 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280, JungsChinese.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a

convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 3827 Baronne St., 899-7411, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $

H Panchita’s World 1434 S. Carrollton Ave., 281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budgetfriendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $ Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. French food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitanstyle pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast 200 Magazine St., 525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 891-4213, ShayaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$ St. James Cheese Company Specialty Foods 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, StJamesCheese.com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday. Sucré Specialty Foods 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available. Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar AMERICAN

2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola. com. L, D daily. Neighborhood bar with one of the best roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Also a great location to watch the game. $

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger. com. L, D daily. Custom-baked butterbrushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$ H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger presents this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$ H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, WayfareNola.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Creative sandwiches and southerninspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 523-8995, LucysRetiredSurfers.com. L, D daily. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherry-picks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $ West Bank Nine Roses Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant. com. L, D Sun-Tue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. $$ West End Landry’s Seafood Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, LandrysSeafood. com. L, D daily. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at Ashley@MyNewOrleans.com

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City of St. Petersburg

Spring Travel Destinations

ith another Mardi Gras come and gone, it’s time to turn to the allure of spring! Lovely weather, newly green landscapes, and an abundance of events return to the South, and after a crazy winter, New Orleanians get the itch to get out and enjoy the season. Travel opportunities abound, and destinations both near and far draw visitors with a wide array of attractions, from sugarwhite beaches to intriguing international cities, nearby plantations, fascinating historic sites, and much more. Whether planning a spring getaway or researching ideas for a week long summer vacation, you’ll find plenty of ways to spend your days. Relaxation, romance, familyfriendly fun, casino excitement, and cultural exploration are just a few reasons to travel, and you can accomplish any and all with the help of the following travel destinations. Pack your bags. The season offers the perfect time to spring a fun adventure on the family.

Louisiana French Quarter Phantoms has been named one of TripAdvisor's Top Ten Ghost Tours in the World and The Discovery Channel's "Official Best of Louisiana 2017!" In addition to their chilling, fun cemetery and French Quarter ghost tours, the company offers three different tours exploring New Orleans neighborhoods: Tour Treme, Music of New Orleans: Listen & Learn, and the Garden District Tour. Tour Tremé, winner of National Geographic’s GeoTourism Award, explores the oldest African American neighborhood in the country, a vibrant area steeped in music and culture. From Congo Square to Storyville, its history runs deep. Music lovers enjoy walking (or dancing!) along with the Music of New Orleans Tour, which also runs through Treme. Listen to the sounds of the city's most talented and storied musicians while learning their inspirations and the hidden meanings in their words. Like walking through a fairytale, the Garden District & Lafayette Cemetery Tour explores the stunning houses, oaks, and history of one of New Orleans’ most famous and affluent neighborhoods. Call 504-666-8300 or visit FrenchQuarterPhantoms.com for tour times and tickets. In January, The Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery and Where Y’Art debuted their latest collaborative exhibition, Masterpeace II, curated by Christian Davenport, also known as Cubs the Poet, exploring how a 96

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person—or perhaps, a city—arrives at a place of peace by transcending traditional ways of being and creating. Cubs the Poet explores the notion of identity, connecting poetry and visual art on the walls of the Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery. Typically found with his typewriter on the streets of the French Quarter, Cubs will instead use the exposed brick walls of the 1854 warehouse as a canvas for his poems. His words will be surrounded by selected works from local artists that transcend traditional rules and inspire new interpretations of beauty and expression. Located in the Warehouse Arts District, three blocks from the French Quarter and a short stroll from the Convention Center, the 167-room Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery features art, a retail space with New Orleans-made items, award-winning cuisine at Compere Lapin and Tout La, free Wi-Fi, and Provenance Hotels’ signature Pillow and Spiritual menus. Book online at old77hotel.com. Take a walk through time as you enjoy a glimpse into the lives of fascinating people who have called St. Joseph Plantation “home.” Learn about the Priestly family and grandson H. H. Richardson, who was born at St. Joseph and became one of America’s most important architects of the 19th century. Explore the story of Valcour Aime, known as “The Louis XIV of Louisiana,” and his two daughters, Felicite and Josephine, to whom he gave St. Joseph Plantation and neighboring Felicity Plantation. Discover the stories of the slaves that lived here and the work they did. In 1877, the story of St. Joseph’s Plantation’ current family began when Joseph Waguespack purchased the plantation. Joseph’s descendants, the Waguespack and Simon families, have kept this sugarcane plantation thriving for over 135 years, operating the plantation with over 1,000 acres planted. Visit and learn about the sugarcane industry and its regional significance. Additionally, see where scenes from All The King’s Men, Skeleton Key, 12 Years a Slave, Underground, Queen Sugar, the remake of Roots, and four-time Oscar nominee Mudbound were filmed. Visit StJosephPlantation.com, or call 225-265-4078. Just 40 miles north of the Big Easy, the historic City of Covington lies enveloped by scenic rivers, live oak trees, and fragrant long-leaf pines. Covington’s charming downtown offers an abundance of world-class dining and entertainment options, as well as unique boutiques and art galleries where you can discover one-of-a kind treasures. Every Thursday in April, the city hosts the Rockin’ the Rails free concerts at the Covington Trailhead. The concerts run 5:00-7:30pm and feature some of Greater New Orleans’s most celebrated musicians. Spring in Covington boasts several other events, including the 7th Annual Taste of Covington, April 11-15, which celebrates local food and fine wine. The event takes place in conjunction with St. Tammany Art Association’s Spring for Art on April 14th. The historic city is excited to announce the fourth annual Covington Heritage Antique Festival, April 21-22, which will feature antiques, vintage collectibles and crafts, architectural salvage, appraisals, food, music, and much more. After attending your fests of choice, blissfully end your evening with an overnight stay at one of many charming bed and breakfasts. Visit covla.com for more information.

Royal Sonesta New Orleans proudly celebrates the Crescent City’s Tricentennial anniversary and is offering a Tricentennial Package for its renowned guest rooms as well as its diverse food and beverage options. Guests can book a Deluxe Room starting at a rate of $300 for a two-night stay, or an R Club luxury level room at a rate of $500 for a two-night stay. R Club guests will also receive a bottle of Moët Imperial champagne with their reservation. Tricentennial room packages are available throughout 2018, but act fast to take advantage of the most ideal booking opportunity. Also,

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ADVERTISING SECTION guests can enjoy specially created Tricentennial cocktails, such as the Flight of the Earls or the Tricentennial Sazerac from Restaurant R’evolution, or the French 300 from The Jazz Playhouse and daily Tricentennial Happy Hour inside Desire Oyster Bar. Come celebrate 300 years at 300 Bourbon Street with Royal Sonesta New Orleans! Visit Sonesta.com/NewOrleans for more details.

Nottoway Plantation & Resort, a magnificent 1850s sugarcane estate and AAA Four-Diamond property, is the home of the South's largest existing antebellum mansion. Stunningly restored to her days of glory, she rests majestically on lush, oak-draped grounds along the Mississippi River between Baton Rouge and New Orleans. In addition to daily audio and guided mansion tours, Nottoway offers 40 deluxe rooms, fabulous dining, beautiful event venues, and unforgettable southern hospitality. The Mansion Restaurant features exquisite southern Louisiana cuisine and is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Other amenities include an outdoor pool, cabana and hot tub, tennis courts, fitness center, salon & spa, and nighttime grounds gorgeously transformed into a magical world by thousands of sparkling white lights. Nottoway Plantation & Resort welcomes you to visit and experience for yourself the history, the luxury, and the hospitality of Nottoway, truly the extraordinary crown jewel of southern antebellum plantations. For more information, visit www.nottoway.com or call 225-545-2730 or 866-527-6884.

Florida Uncork some fun in the sun at the 32nd Sandestin Wine Festival, April 12-15 at Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, the #1 Resort on Florida’s Emerald Coast. Presented by Coastal Living magazine, this hallmark event has affectionately been called the “Kentucky Derby of Wine Festivals” because of its popularity and grandeur. Enjoy this picture-perfect four-day event, complete with wine dinners, grand wine tastings, delicious food pairings by regional celebrity chefs, live music and a special Sunday brunch. Plus, stay steps away from the event at Sandestin and enjoyup to 25% off deluxe accommodations and tickets with codeWINE18. For more information, visit Sandestin.com/wine or call 855-270-5109.

Savvy travelers have learned to book their beach vacation early to get the best location on the beach. With the soft, white sand beaches of Destin, South Walton, and 30A less than 300 miles away, the Florida coast is an anticipated tradition for many Louisiana families. For families looking to save, Newman-Dailey Resort Properties recently shared these tips: (1) always book direct to avoid additional fees and guarantee the best rate and (2) visit during non-peak weeks, such as late spring or late summer, when rates are lower. Newman-Dailey’s Late Spring Fling* (valid for stays April 7 to May 19, 2018) features $100 off stays of 4-6 nights or $200 off stays of 7-nights or more with participating South Walton and Destin vacation rentals (*some restrictions apply). This special offer is available during the South Walton Beaches Wine & Food Festival (April 26-29) and Mother’s Day Weekend (May 10-13). For details, visit DestinVacation.com or call 1-800-225-7652. Just a few hours outside of New Orleans is paradise on Pensacola Beach, and it’s waiting for you to take a vacation. Situated along the Gulf of Mexico, Portofino Island Resort is Northwest Florida’s premier beach vacation experience. Built along eight miles of untouched sandy beaches, the resort offers guests a perfect balance of indulgence and natural beauty. Take a kayak or paddleboard adventure and surf the crystal blue waters, or fly under the sun as you parasail your day away. Then, be sure to reserve a spa day and get pampered in the comfort of your private suite or poolside. Go on a morning or sunset cruise and watch curious dolphins jump out of the water to ride the waves and say hello. Whether you want to enjoy the beach with family, your children, your spouse or your friends, guests of all ages will enjoy Portofino Island Resort. The property features luxurious two and three-bedroom “skyhomes”, active amenities, fabulous dining, spas, and more. Book your getaway at PortofinoIsland.com. Experiencing Historic Pensacola is a must-do for any spring getaway to America’s first multi-year European settlement. Located downtown, just minutes from Pensacola’s world famous sugar-white beaches and emerald-green waters, Historic Pensacola is nestled within the footprints of the original Spanish and British forts as well as in the heart of today’s waterfront dining, shopping, and entertainment scene. The walkable complex shares the stories of Pensacola’s rich heritage through museum exhibits, guided home tours, and engaging, perioddressed living history interpreters. “One Ticket, Seven Days to Explore” ticketing allows access to all museums, tours and activities for seven days. While exploring, step across the street to the Pensacola Museum of Art and immerse yourself in the diversity of visual culture through exhibitions, tours, and special events designed to educate and inspire. For hours and ticket information, visit HistoricPensacola.org (850-595-5990) and PensacolaMuseum.org (850-432-6247).

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Brush off the winter blues with a spring getaway full of family fun on the white sand beaches of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach. The destination has seen generations return year after year, and with so much to see and do, it’s no wonder why. With a wide variety of activities and attractions, including a number of acclaimed festivals, there is something for all interests and ages to enjoy. Enjoy a day of art, music, and crawfish at the Waterway Village Zydeco and Crawfish Festival in Gulf Shores on April 14. Or join in on the Bama Boat Cruise on April 26-28 at The Wharf in Orange Beach. In May, Gulf Shores’ public beach will be the center of all the action for

ADVERTISING SECTION the 2018 National Collegiate Beach Volleyball Championship, May 4-6. Visit GulfShores.com or call 877-341-2400 to request a free vacation guide.

Mississippi Vicksburg, Mississippi, is a city for every kind of explorer. If you are in search of the elusive sound of the Mississippi Delta Blues, you will find it in Vicksburg. Live Mississippi music from the Delta Blues to country and rock can be enjoyed at venues throughout the city. American history buffs love visiting the site of the defining battle of America’s defining war at the Vicksburg National Military Park. Shoppers and strollers enjoy the Southern charm and brick-paved streets of Vicksburg’s historic downtown with boutiques, art galleries, and great restaurants. The spring season brings great events including River Fest, which features 22 live music acts, the Bluz Cruz Canoe and Kayak Race on the Mississippi River, and the Spring Pilgrimage of homes. Enjoy sweeping views of the mighty Mississippi River and some of the most beautiful sunsets imaginable. Relax—it all runs on river time. For more to see and do in Vicksburg, go to VisitVicksburg.com or call 1-800-221-3536.

Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort is “The New Way” on the Mississippi Gulf Coast! Featuring a bright, open, and friendly gaming floor, the casino resort prides itself on an atmosphere of resort modernity, complemented by the best Southern hospitality. Showcasing “The New Way to Win,” the property features over 1,170 state-of-the-art slot machines, 37 top-of-the-line table games and over 80 video poker games. The Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort also offers “The New Way to Dine” with something for everyone, from an extraordinary, over-the-top Sunday Jazz Brunch featuring the ultimate Bloody Mary

drink in the elegant atmosphere of Scarlet’s Steaks & Seafood, to casual dining at Under The Oak Cafe, Chopstx Noodle Bar, or Waterfront Buffet. Frankly My Dear Boutique, located inside Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort, offers “The New Way to Shop” and carries top designers like Joseph Ribkoff, Hammit, Michael Kors, and many more. Additionally, on-site amenity Lava Links Miniature Golf Club offers family-friendly fun. Putt your way past an erupting volcano, and, afterwards, cool off by the luxurious Garden Oasis Pool. Book your next ultimate getaway at ScarletPearlCasino.com.

International Travel Condor Airlines, part of Thomas Cook Group Airlines, will continue its New Orleans to Frankfurt service in Summer 2018. With a total of 16 gateways in North America, Condor is the only “leisure” carrier operating with full-service, inclusive fares in Business, Premium, and Economy class on the Boeing 767-300 aircraft. “I’m thrilled that Condor continues this nonstop trans-Atlantic flight here in New Orleans,” says Mayor Mitch Landrieu. “Nonstop flights to Frankfurt open a gateway to new international markets that will create jobs and new opportunities.” Experience all that Germany has to offer this summer with a hasslefree, non-stop flight from home. With its numerous partner airlines, Condor also offers flights beyond Frankfurt to over 120 destinations across Europe at competitive prices. All Condor passengers receive complimentary checked baggage, beverages and meals, and in-flight entertainment. Additionally, Condor’s business class features lie-flat seats, a personal in-seat, premium touch-screen entertainment system, power and USB ports at every seat, gourmet, five-course meals with complimentary wine, beer, and cocktails, and a well-being amenity kit. Book online at Condor.com or by calling 1-866-960-7915. •

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ADVERTISING SECTION top restaurants and wine purveyors. Le Deux Papas will cook up their famous French fries and mussels, and Urban South will host a beer garden. The crowd favorite is the "joie de vivre" wine cocktail. The musical lineup includes Grammy-nominated Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers, as well as Bruce Sunpie, Sarah Quintana, the New Orleans Swinging Gypsies, Thibault, and Kaye Doiron. A circus theme is the setting for "Le Grand Chapiteau" (The Big Top), featuring a circus school and entertainers, as well as a variety of games for children of all ages. Other activities include a French-themed fine art market, silent auction, raffle, and much more. For more information, please visit FeteFrancaise.com or call 504896-4500.

Summer Camps Summer shines at Sacred Heart for all boys and girls. For ages 1-13, Academy of the Sacred Heart is excited to offer Summer Fun Day Camp for girls and Sports and More Day Camp for boys. Popular camp sessions include Creative HeARTS, Middle School Creative Choice, Theater Camp (Junie B Jones the Musical), Sports Clinics and Cheer Camp, and their kick-off to the school year, Jump Start. Lunch is included in tuition, and before-care and after-care are available for all camps, which take place June 5 through July 20. Founded in 1867, the Academy of the Sacred Heart is a Catholic, independent, college prep school for girls, ages 1 through grade 12. The school is committed to values of faith, intellectual advancement, social awareness, the building of community, and personal growth. For more information on the summer camps and school, visit ashrosary.org/summercamp or call 504-269-1230. Have a “whale” of a summer on the 12-acre country campus of

Arden Cahill Academy's Camp Corral. Cahill Camp Corral

Camps & Events

ime flies, and so does the school year. Parents, now’s the time to start planning for summer, when the kids’ schedules clear up, but yours don’t. Fortunately, summer camps abound in New Orleans, and schools and organizations across the city are able to keep young ones engaged and learning through fun activities, exciting adventures, and personalized programs. The following spring events and summer camps may make great additions to your family calendar and help keep your child’s education and exploration right on track. When the summer rolls around, you’ll be ready with a number of options, whether you mix up multiple one-week sessions or pursue an extended program. Camps come in a variety of styles and packages, with some solely focused on expanding your child’s unique interests, talents, or school trouble spots that could use a little extra attention before the fall. Plan now, and you’ll have a happy camper on your hands.

Spring Events On Saturday, March 10, from 11:00 a.m.– 5:00 p.m., Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans will present its annual Fête Française, celebrating the French heritage of New Orleans. Located at 821 General Pershing Street (between Magazine and Constance streets), the festival is free and welcomes the public to enjoy all things French: the language, cuisine, art, culture, and music. The festival is known for its exceptional food and drink, which is specially curated from the area’s

offers a relaxed environment where children continue to grow and develop during the summer months under the supervision of qualified teachers and experienced instructors. Activities and amenities include horseback riding, swimming, art, theater, sports, game room, petting farm, computer games, academic and enrichment classes, field days, dances, fishing, water slide, bounce house, camp-in, archery, riflery, STEAM activities, discovery and much, much more. Campers ages 3-14 are welcome to attend (camper must turn 4 by Sept. 30). Conveniently located on the West Bank (10 minutes from the GNO Bridge), the camp runs 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., with before- and after-care available. Hot lunches can be provided for an additional fee. Session 1 dates are May 29 - June 29 and Session 2 dates are July 2 - August 3 with an option for weekly rates. For more information or to register now, visit Camp Corral online at ArdenCahillAcademy.com.

Camp Trinity offers over 35 specialty camps, ranging from Hip Hop Dance to Rocketry each June and August. Camps are led by Trinity faculty and staff and include a variety of options for students ranging from 18 months to Eighth Grade. Summer camp runs over four consecutive weeks in June and for two full weeks and one partial week in August. It includes both half- and full-day scheduling options. Before and after camp care is available 7:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. each day. Trinity strives to maintain excellent staff-to-camper ratios; therefore, space is limited in all camps. Smaller camps contribute to the individualized activities and personal attention campers and staff enjoy. For more information on Camp Trinity, visit TrinityNola.org or contact Summer Camp Director Chris Core by email at ccore@TrinityNola.com or by phone at 504-579-9664. Lusher invites campers to the Lusher Summer Arts and Innovation Camps! The school will host two unique camps this year, each of which will run from June 4th through June 15th at the Freret campus. The Arts Spark Camp (for rising 2nd-5th graders) offers classes in my n e w or l e a n s . com

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ADVERTISING SECTION design, karate, the arts, science, and more. Meanwhile, the Arts and Innovation Camp (for rising 6th-9th graders) will begin to prepare young artists and explorers for pre-professional conservatory and design-oriented high school programs. Camp tuition is $500 for registered Lusher students and $550 for children attending other schools. New Orleans’ highest performing K-12 public school, Lusher is a National Blue Ribbon School in partnership with Tulane University. The school offers a rigorous, interdisciplinary and college-focused curriculum. For more information on Lusher’s summer programs and other offerings visit LusherSchool.org. Choose your adventure at Mount Carmel’s Summer Camp. Campers customize their summer fun by picking their favorite classes from a diverse and exciting selection. They will enjoy being artists, scientists, dancers, athletes, cheerleaders, chefs, detectives, designers, actresses, and so much more. Campers will explore their individual interests and uncover new talents as they make friends and have a blast. MCA Summer Camp runs June 4-29. Camp is divided into two sections: girls entering second through fifth grade and girls entering fifth through eighth grade. Morning sessions are 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m., and afternoon sessions are 1:00 p.m. -4:00 p.m. Camp classes are led by Mount Carmel faculty members with assistance from their students. A lunch program is offered and before- and after-care are also available. Registration opens March 8. Please visit MCACubs.com to register, and get ready for a fun-filled summer at MCA. This summer, Ursuline Academy is offering several exciting camp options for all girls age 2 through eighth grade. Camp U: A Camp for Every Girl provides individualized camp programs with an emphasis

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on the subjects your camper loves most. Empower your camper with fun challenges including creative problem solving, collaboration, and entrepreneurship through innovation with Camp Invention. For your little actress, artist, singer or craftswoman, Camp Create offers art, acting, singing, cooking, decorating, baking, sewing, creative writing, cross stitch, piano, music, ceramics and more. Camp ROAR is a reading and language arts camp with opportunities to strengthen their phonics skills, oral reading fluency, reading comprehension skills and vocabulary development. For the athletes, there’s Camp of Champions lead by both district and state-winning coaches, as well as former college athletes and includes volleyball, softball, basketball, running, cheer, tennis and soccer. Learn more about Ursuline Academy’s various camp options at UANola.org, or email summercamp@uanola.org for more information. The Louisiana Children’s Museum is the cool place to play this summer with weekly themed camps that explore science, food, fitness, architecture, and more. Voyage into space, create constellations, and explore the stars. Discover creatures large and small that inhabit Louisiana’s wetlands and design an imaginary swamp creature. Be a paleontologist and dig for fossils; and use math to measure ingredients to cook up tasty kitchen creations. Learning has never been more fun! Louisiana Children’s Museum summer camps are $225 per week for members and $250 per week for non-members. Camps are designed for children ages 5-8. Choose from ten weeks of exciting camps June 4 -August 10. Camp is held daily from 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. Before- and after-care are also available for an additional fee. Preregistration is required. Space is limited. To register or learn more about LCM summer camps, visit LCM.org/Come-Play/Camps or call 504-523-1357. •

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Big Bay Lake

Home

pring is in the air and wouldn’t it be nice for your home to be just as fresh and aromatic? Renew your home with Lampe Berger fragrances from Auraluz, a wonderful place to stop by this spring for gifts to treat yourself and your friends. Lampe Berger Paris is the best system to cleanse, purify and rejuvenate the air in your home. With Lampe Berger, household odors are not masked, but rather destroyed and eliminated, leaving the air purified. Lampe Berger lamp styles range from classic to modern with over 50 fragrances to choose. Since 1898, Lampe Berger has mastered the art of design and fragrance creation. Also discover Parfum Berger, a full line of diffusers, home sprays and candles in a selection of popular fragrances. Browse the great selection for yourself by visiting the Auraluz store location at 4408 Shores Drive in Metairie or shop online at ShopAuraluz.com.

Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on Mississippi’s largest private recreational lake. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Home sites are available on the water starting at $100,000. Both the homes and home sites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the perfect home or weekend getaway. It is time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay. Whether you’re a boating or fishing enthusiast, or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, “where the little things make life... BIG!” Big Bay Lake is only 90 minutes from New Orleans. Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit BigBayLake.com. The nearly 130-year-old historic Barwil Building—once a candy and elixirs warehouse—in the heart of the CBD has been meticulously renovated into a mixed-use condominium building. Newly-built penthouse residence PH500 spans the entire 5th floor roof and is an entertainer’s dream. A stunning 72-foot long main hall showcases panoramic western city views, and a private outdoor entertaining lounge to the east is accessible via motorized multi-slide windows and multi-fold doors. The penthouse features extra wide-plank European 104

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white oak floors and tall ceilings. The sleek modern kitchen is finished with waterfall marble counters and a 10-foot tall pantry wall, a large dining room, custom floor-to-ceiling 140-bottle mahogany wine riddling wall, a bar with an under-counter wine cellar and refrigerator. The penthouse also includes three bedrooms with spa-like en-suite bathrooms, a keyed elevator and a two-way video intercom. 307 Tchoupitoulas, 3,155 sf interior plus 745 sf terrace. For sale by Trinion Properties LLC for $2.15m. Agent-protected. Visit CBDlofts.com for more information. As a licensed landscape contractor, horticulturist and longtime resident of New Orleans, Beverly Katz and her team embrace the natural landscapes and historical character the region offers. Problem yards are her specialty; correcting drainage and identifying poor soil conditions are skills that come with experience. Springtime in New Orleans brings the sweet fragrance of azaleas, bright sunny days and cool breezy nights. Wouldn’t you like to enjoy this season in the comfort of your own backyard? Exterior Designs, founded by Beverly Katz, brings charm and tranquility to the landscapes, courtyards and pool renovations of locals, preserving the New Orleans Architecture of old homes and adding a touch of French Quarter Style to new homes. Visit ExteriorDesignsBev.com to see the stunning portfolio of Exterior Designs’ work and to learn about the design and building processes. Set up a consultation with a professional designer by calling (504) 866-0276. As New Orleans natives with over 15 years combined experience in real estate, Jamie Hughes and Celeste Marshall have a personal understanding of the nuances in value and unique characteristics of our local housing stock. They specialize in historic neighborhoods, but also work in the immediate suburbs of the city. Priding themselves on giving clients honest, professional and personal service, Jamie and Celeste maintain a referral based multi-million-dollar real estate business and are proud to be affiliated with Keller Williams Realty 455-0100, the No. 1 Real Estate Office for Residential Market Share Year to Date. Whether buying, selling or developing property in the New Orleans area, they provide their clients with the support, information, guidance and expertise needed to get to a successful closing. Visit NewOrleansHistoricHomes.com for more information. •

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Specialty Medicine C hildren’s Hospital’s Orthopedic Center is committed to

providing comprehensive and compassionate care for pediatric, adolescent, and young adult patients. Orthopedic residents from several medical centers complete pediatric rotations at Children’s Hospital to train with the largest group of board certified orthopedic surgeons in the area. Established in 1955, it contains the region’s largest and most experienced pediatric orthopedic team. In its specialty clinics, last year the hospital recorded more than 24,000 visits, treating the full spectrum of orthopedic conditions—ranging from fractures and sports-related injuries to scoliosis, hip conditions, limb length discrepancies, and cerebral palsy. The center blends cutting-edge treatments and innovative surgical approaches with prompt, family-centered care. A specialized critical care spinal unit is available to all patients who undergo a spine related surgical procedure. The center’s team is committed to providing the best possible care for every patient. For more information about the Orthopedic Center at Children’s Hospital, visit chnola.org/orthopedics.

Started by Mo and Sharon Crane nearly twenty years ago, Crane Rehab Center has helped thousands of people achieve or return to their highest level of function through innovative care. With the experience of a larger provider but the focus of a small, outcome-dedicated team, Crane Rehab Center can assist you in living your best life. Crane’s River Road location and their new CBD location give adult patients opportunities to attend therapy before or after work, or even during a lunch break. In the adult clinic, the team can help identify paincausing habits in the workspace and can provide ergonomic solutions. Both the CBD and River Road locations offer physical therapy and treat lower back and spinal injuries, neurological disorders, arthritis and other injuries. Additionally, they offer aquatic therapy, dry needling, Pilates and massage, yoga and more. Their pediatric location on Earhart Blvd offers physical, occupational, speech therapy, ABA services, music therapy, as well as enrichment programs for children. Physicians’ referrals are accepted but not required. For more information, visit CraneRehab.com or call 504-828-7696 (Adults); 504-293-2454 (CBD); 504-866-6990 (Pediatrics).

CrescentCare offers care for everyone in the community, with a particular focus on workers in the service industry and the LGBTQ community. While they will see anyone and strive to offer affordable, accessible care, CrescentCare understands that there are barriers for some individuals and groups and is dedicated to taking those barriers down. They offer primary care, pediatrics, PrEP for HIV prevention, behavioral health, dentistry, sexual health services and nutrition. They even work with a pharmacy on site to provide whole-person services with attention to accessibility, affordability and convenience for their clients. Offering care for all, regardless of income, insurance status, country of origin/ citizenship, or any other part of a person’s identity, CrescentCare is a health home focused on whole-person health care. Check out CrescentCare.org today or visit one of their facilities across the city to learn more about what CrescentCare can do for you and your family—the one you’re born into, or the one you choose. New treatments for brain tumors, migraines, Parkinson's Disease and paralysis are just some of the cutting edge therapies at Culicchia Neurological Clinic, one of the largest neuro practices in the region. The clinic's doctors use a team approach to diagnose and treat neurological disorders. Culicchia Neurological Clinic’s affiliate, CNC Hearing and Balance Center, offers a medical staff trained to provide the latest in hearing 106

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healthcare. The Center offers a wide array of treatment options from assistive devices to microsurgical hearing restoration, surgically implantable hearing devices, digital hearing device fittings, cochlear implants, hearing tests, and tinnitus treatment. Their physicians are among the most highly trained in the Gulf South, respected for their expertise and high level of patient care. Clinics are located in Marrero, New Orleans (Uptown), Slidell, and Covington. Call 504-340-6976 for an appointment or visit CulicchiaNeuro.com or cnchearing.com.

As Louisiana’s only MD Anderson affiliated hospital, East Jefferson General Hospital (EJGH) has access to the latest treatment protocols/ plans used by the cancer center voted #1 by US News and World Report. But beyond that affiliation, EJGH’s outcomes and commitment to personalized care separate it from any other cancer center in the region. State-of-the-art technologies allow the hospital to treat prostate, head and neck, breast, and other cancers in ways that are more successful and patient friendly than ever before. EJGH’s Cancer Care Navigators give patients someone to turn to in setting appointments, understanding treatments/medicines, and helping the patient concentrate on only one thing: getting better. Most of all, the hospital’s oncology division is comprised of physicians, nurses, and ancillary staff who choose to work in the unique and ever-changing field of fighting cancer. These individuals thrive on helping people through their toughest challenge and seeing them beyond treatment to being cancer free. That commitment from EJGH’s team to each patient is the reason the hospital was voted the #1 hospital in Louisiana for Medical Outcomes. Find out more about EJGH offerings at EJGH.org. Generations of families have turned to Patio Drugs for assistance in managing their healthcare needs. Family owned and operated since 1958, Patio Drugs helps customers understand their medications, both prescription and over-the counter, and provides free prescription delivery throughout East Jefferson. A full-service pharmacy and the oldest independent pharmacy in Jefferson Parish, Patio Drugs is also a leading provider of home medical equipment. For everything from a Band-Aid, to medication, to a hospital bed, Patio Drugs is the one-stop source for your family’s healthcare needs. In addition to providing retail and medical equipment, Patio Drugs can assist with long- term care and infusion needs as well as specialty and compounding services. Patio Drugs is accredited by The Joint Commission in Home Medical Equipment, Long Term Care and Home Infusion Pharmacy and Consultant Pharmacy Services. Their Compounding Pharmacy is PCAB accredited through ACHC. Patio Drugs is located at 5208 Veterans Blvd. in Metairie. For more information, call 504-889- 7070. Patio Drugs, “Large Enough to Serve You, Yet, Small Enough to Know You.” If you’re traveling to exotic parts of the world, consult first with the expert physicians at the Tulane Travel Clinic. According to Director Dr. Susan McLellan, half of all travelers to developing countries will develop some health problem. Many travelers turn to their travel agents for advice, but Dr. McLellan says it’s impossible for travel agents to stay abreast of all the latest information. Even most physicians aren’t up-to-date on traveler’s health, which encompasses much more than immunizations. Consultations are individualized based on each traveler’s itinerary, medical history and personal health considerations. “We need to consider if you’re working in a refugee camp, climbing at high altitude on the Inca trail or going on a love boat-style cruise,” says Dr. McLellan. Dr. McLellan and other Tulane Infectious Disease doctors also treat travelers who return ill at their regular Infectious Disease clinics. For more information about the Travel Clinic, call 504-988-1947 or visit TulaneTravel.com. •

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TRY THIS

Driftin’ Away Again Adventures on a Yolo Board by KELLY MASSICOT

t’s funny, how genes work. One would think that when a parent of great athletic ability has children, those said children would also posses athletic ability. This, though, is not the case when it comes to me. My father had a pretty successful basketball career in his day, quintessential athlete; however, my mother, bless her heart, holds not a single ounce of athleticism. I’m sure everyone can guess which parent’s genes dominated the others. Why, you ask, am I telling you this? Because this thought, and the many thoughts of my lack of athletic ability, raced through my head as I walked towards the beach in Destin, Florida to take my first try at paddleboarding. Last August, I spent a few days at The Henderson Beach Resort in Destin. The long weekend was full of delicious food, a spa 126

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appointment I still dream about, and great fun with a good group of people. The one snag in my fabulous weekend, I thought when we arrived, was the inevitable paddle-boarding experience we were going to try as a group. I couldn’t back down. I definitely have a great excuse - I don’t often use my rheumatoid arthritis as an excuse, but I would be lying if I didn’t say I came very close to pulling that card. But, I thought, I had tried City Surf on Magazine Street a few times, and if I had only fallen off those surfboards once, I had to have a pretty decent chance of success. It was our second day at the resort. A beautiful day on the beach with not a cloud in the sky. And the two men of Yolo Board Adventures could not have been more helpful. They showed the group exactly how to paddle, eventually stand

up on the board and everything in between. They made sure each person asked all the questions they needed to, even some of us who had a plethora of “what if” questions. And just like that, we were off and into the water. I’ll admit that my first thought was that I was just thankful I made it up onto the board. I felt comfortable, once I had the sitting and paddling position down, and then I really enjoyed myself. We had all paddled out as a group and the view out into the Gulf of Mexico was actually quite beautiful. I’m not sure if it was the accomplishment of sitting and paddling, or the beautiful weather out there, but my confidence saw a boost (plus, I was far enough away from others to be too embarrassed) and I attempted to stand up on the board – which is customary for

those who paddleboard. On my third attempt, though shaky, I made it. My two feet were on the board, I was standing, proud as I have ever been, and I felt like I just flipped into the end zone, like Reggie Bush in that one game against Pittsburgh. The board below me felt like it would fly out from under me at any moment, and even my brief decade as a dancer was not helping with my balance. And just like that Reggie Bush flip, I eventually came back down. It was a short-lived victory, but I accomplished something I may have never done if it wasn’t for The Henderson and the two instructors with Yolo. I never had paddle-boarding on my extensive bucket list, but I penciled it in, checked it off and I would love to go back to Destin and try drifting away all over again. •

ETC.

Author Talk: Martha B. Boone & “The Big Free” On March 25th, the Pirate Alley’s Faulkner Society and the Louisiana State Museum will host Martha B. Boone to talk about her first novel, “The Big Free” at the Presbytere. Boone did her urology training in New Orleans at Tulane and worked at Charity Hospital. Already receiving rave reviews, the novel gives a unique viewpoint of life in New Orleans and ‘the humor and horror of the world of medicine as only a true insider can.’ Free and open to the public, RSVP to faulkhouse@aol.com.

Image courtesy of The Historic New Orleans Collection

Tricentennial Exhibition The Historic New Orleans Collection (THNOC) includes 10 historic buildings in the French Quarter which function as a museum and research center dedicated to preserving the history and culture of the city and the Gulf South. This February, a new exhibition entitled, “New Orleans, the Founding Era” will open to tell the story of the early days of the city by bringing together a vast collection of rare artifacts from across Europe and North America. The exhibition commemorates the city’s 300th anniversary and includes a bilingual companion catalogue. For more information, hnoc.org. By Mirella Cameran

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streetcar

At the Altar

rom the first St. Joseph’s Day altar I ever attended as a kid, I recall an elderly Sicilian lady who explained why she built the altar. One night she saw the apparition of St. Joseph. “He was very small,” she said. He appeared on her chest of drawers. “The saint asked me to build the altar.” That was not a request that could easily be turned down. Quite often the altars, which consist of foods displayed in a decorative way, including cookies, pastas, a fish (never meat) and the ever-popular lamb-shaped cake (with coconut icing as its wool), were built in response to a favor asked. (In the case of the woman there was illness in her family.) Sometimes it was just a tradition from the old country

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being carried out. I have been fascinated with the altars, especially since realizing that New Orleans is probably the global epicenter for preserving the tradition. Not even in Sicily, where the custom began, is the practice as popular. There is a certain truth about ethnic mobilization: the old customs survive better in the new country as an act of cultural preservation. Meanwhile, in the old country, the next generation is less interested in the past. (There are probably more oom-pah pah bands per capita in the United States than in Germany.) St. Joseph altars are a vague memory in Sicily where every town has its own saint who is closer to the people than Joseph. He is given credit for saving the island from a famine,

by errol laborde

but he was never a local. Through the years I have visited many altars, including one for a woman who wanted to have a child and built an altar as an offering. After several years, she became pregnant and delivered a son on St. Joseph Day. There could be no question what his name would be. Cuccidati, the famous Italian fig cookie, is always a fixture on an altar, though sometimes there are variations. I once visited an altar built on a budget where there was a pack of Fig Newtons, and for the fish dish there was a can of tuna. New Orleans’ classic shotgun houses were a usual setting for altars in the earlier days. Many Italian families lived in half of the house, with the front room being overtaken by the altar. The altars were open to the public on the day before Joseph Day. On the day itself there would be a dinner featuring some of the altar items. As the Sicilian population assimilated, so too did the altar location change. In recent years it has been more common to see altars in suburban garages or in home dens. The Sicilian grandmas who were the driving force behind the altars are fewer. Now they are more of a family enterprise. Increasingly the altars are becoming more institutionalized; located in a church or school where making the altars is a community affair. Some customs remain intact. The Times-Picayune still has an

altar section in its classified pages during the days before, and the custom of having a palm leaf outside the front door to indicate that the altar is open for visits remains. Leave a small donation and you will still get a bag with a few cookies inside plus a prayer card and some fava beans intended to bring special luck. There are still creatively designed breads, frequently shaped like a crucifix or a shepherd’s crook. During the early days of immigration, several Sicilians opened neighborhood groceries. They were usually in poor neighborhoods where some of the clientele were black. From that came an intermingling of Sicilian tradition with the local black culture that also felt a connection with Joseph as the patron saint of workers. The Mardi Gras Indians would traditionally make their second appearance of the year on St. Joseph Day. (Now the dancing is more commonly moved to a near weekend and called “Super Sunday.”) On the St. Joseph Day after Katrina we were searching to see if the altar tradition had survived. From the newspaper listing we headed to Gentilly. To my surprise a palm leaf was attached to the door of a FEMA trailer. Inside was a delightful black Creole woman who invited us to see her creation. There could not be anything more spiritually multi-cultural, and sweet, than this. At one of the city’s darkest moments the search for a St. Joseph altar provided hope that the city still had a prayer. •

ARTHUR NEAD Illustration