DECEMBERÂ 2014
Chef of the Year Justin Devillier, La Petite Grocery
myneworleans.com
$4.95 resents V P rogramming S-T ay P E Y W olid H Great
DECEMBER 2014 / VOLUME 48 / NUMBER 12 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Morgan Packard Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Editor Liz Scott Monaghan Food Editor Dale Curry Dining Editor Jay Forman Wine and Spirits Editor Tim McNally Restaurant Reporter Robert Peyton Home Editor Bonnie Warren web Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writer Melanie Warner Spencer INTERN Shelby Simon SALES MANAGER Kate Sanders (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Senior Account Executive Jonée Daigle Ferrand Account Executives Sarah Daigle, Lauren Lavelle, Lisa Picone Production/web Manager Staci McCarty Production Designers Monique DiPietro, Antoine Passelac, Ali Sullivan traffic manager Erin Duhe Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive VICE PRESIDENT Errol Laborde Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND EVENTS Cheryl Lemonie Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Denise Dean SUBSCRIPTIONS Sara Kelemencky WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Beth Arroyo Utterback Managing Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek
NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 Subscriptions: (504) 830-7231
MyNewOrleans.com
New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2014 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.
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contents
72 FEATURES
IN EVERY ISSUE
ON THE COVER
58
Best of Dining
Choice picks from the restaurant scene By Jay Forman, Tim McNally and Robert Peyton
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72
HavIng a Prayer
Upon further review – how the battle was won By George Gurtner
From Chef of the Year Justin Devillier to Restaurant of the Year and Honor Roll, learn more about the local restaurant scene and what we consider to be the current “Best of Dining” starting on pg. 58.
INSIDE Secrets From the Trunk
16 speaking out Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 18
JULIA STREET Questions and answers about our city
143 Try This “A couple’s retreat becomes a sensual ritual” 144 STREETCAR “Miracle on I-10”
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DECEMBER 2014 / myneworleans.com
Photographed by Marianna Massey
contents
30
THE BEAT 22
MARQUEE
Entertainment calendar
24
PERSONA
Ralph Brennan: The guy in charge
26
Biz
“Room Service”
28
Education
“Virtual Learning”
30
HEALTH
“Isolations and Quarantines”
32
HEALTHBEAT
The latest news in health from New Orleans and beyond
34
CRIME FIGHTING
“An Early Christmas”
50
80
LOCAL COLOR
THE MENU
38
78
IN TUNE
table talk
“All is Wild”
40
music History
80 restaurant insider
“Shades of Praise: A choir without a church”
“Seoul Shack, Bao and Noodle and a place too new to name”
42
Read & Spin
82
Food
”Crunch and Munch: Recipes for Christmas dinner”
84
LAST CALL
The Cruzan Natchez Cocktail from Cane & Table
86
DINING GUIDE
44
A look at the latest albums and books
CAST OF CHARACTERS “Sister Donna’s Sweetheart statue”
46
MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS
“Green Peace: A real tree for Christmas”
48
Joie d’Eve
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52
“Steak Frites: Exploring a French classic”
“The Scariest Thing”
CHRONICLES “The Cadenza Club stays in tune”
HOME ”Tom and Gayle Benson’s touch of gold”
DIAL 12 D1 This month, WYES brings viewers delightful holiday programming, plus so much more! Program highlights include “Jackie Evancho – Awakening – Live in Concert,” “American Masters – Bing Crosby Rediscovered” and “Downton Abbey Revisited” – just to name a few. And don’t miss for the very first time, WYES’ non-televised art auction with New Orleans Auction Galleries. The pieces benefitting WYES will be offered on Sun., Dec. 7, beginning at 10 a.m. Also this month, WYES is partnering with venues from New Orleans to Biloxi for free screenings of the first hour of Season 5 of “Downton Abbey.” For all WYES program and event details, go to wyes.org. 10
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DECEMBER 2014 / myneworleans.com
inside
Secrets From the Trunk
T
hat pungent smell drifting from the back of the car was becoming overwhelming by July 2006, so I decided it was time to no longer deny it and look for the source. The year was an important one for automobile trunks in the region, many of which were still packed with stuff as we moved to and from postKatrina locations. The trunk, like the back of vans, had become a mobile living room to our suddenly mobile lives. Somewhere within, I suspected, the source of the smell existed. It was not an obnoxious odor, but just strong enough to need to be dealt with. So I removed items from the trunk, including boxes and suitcases, one by one working my way through the clutter, following the sensory trail. As I excavated near the bottom I noticed the remains of a badly smashed box. In it was a clump of brightly colored wrapping paper. “Oh no,” I thought as the smell intensified. Here was the moment of discovery: It was, I gulped, the Christmas boudin. Each year my Aunt Doris, who lived in the Avoyelles Parish town of Moreauville, gave the same present, but it was a treasure, a package of frozen boudin containing about four or five hearty links. It was the so-called “white boudin” made with pork, rice and seasonings. The store near her home where she bought the sausage sold it either uncooked by the link, frozen in packages or from a crockpot, cooked and ready to eat. At its best the boudin exuded the taste of a seasoned pork snack packaged in its own edible case. (In this, our Best of Dining issue, I can report that the crockpot boudin has perpetually been Moureauville’s Best of Dining.) By Christmas 2006 we still hadn’t returned to our home and we were living in an apartment on Julia Street. (Our three-foot high artificial Christmas tree came from the K-Mart in Alexandria.) Because we still relied on the trunk as a supply space, the gift got buried. My aunt’s wrapping, probably done as a joke, at least made the bounty easier to spot. Aunt Doris is no longer with us but her legacy lives on. The refrigerator freezer contains packages of boudin from the same store where she shopped. Except for an occasional long-lost book or T-shirt, the car trunk is more or less clear. Now at least if anything smells suspicious, it won’t take so long to find it.
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myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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SPEAKING OUT
Privateers In Need of Help
R
ecently there was a fundraiser cocktail party to honor the University of New Orleans’ latest selection as Alumnus of the Year. The pick, Jefferson Parish Sheriff Newell Normand, had, as is customary, been selected by previous winners of the award. Normand was a popular choice. (As one former winner told him, “I live in New Orleans, so this was my first chance to vote for you.”) As a high-profile public official it was hoped that he, like other winners, could be an example of the quality of the university’s alumni. (The previous year’s winner was federal judge Jay Zainey; also in the number was former U.S. attorney Jim Letten.) Still, despite the pride of accomplishment, there remains a sense of gloom when the topic is UNO.
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Once an example, as fresh as a lake breeze, of a thriving urban university, UNO has been hit hard by budget cuts, population shifts and competition from area universities. Through its history it has been a good school, but one too often devoid of the college life that’s attractive to students with means. As a commuter college it served those who worked while getting an education. The most common praise about the university is that it gave New Orleans a middle class. There is truth to that. Until what was originally known as LSUNO opened in 1959, students had to leave town or afford a private university to get higher-level education. Many were denied the opportunity. By providing quality and inexpensive education, a middle class began to emerge. (Nearby, Southern University in
New Orleans was created to do the same for black students, though from the very beginning UNO was integrated and has in recent years had a higher black student enrollment than SUNO.) For most of its existence UNO’s supporters have complained that the university was an overlooked stepchild of the parent LSU system. In 2011, UNO became part of the University of Louisiana system where it was thought it would be more of an equal player. While it’s still too early to tell the impact of that change, UNO has faced enough hardships to drop behind in anyone’s system. A faculty committee has been studying possible restructuring and elimination of some programs. The university is doing what it has to do to face a harsh reality. There are notable growth areas, particularly in tourism-related areas and movie production; on the other side some education programs and upper level political science seem destined for the axe. Somehow, some way, UNO needs more support, not only from alumni and government but also from groups that recognize the importance of a public urban university. We know many stories of the impact that the university has had on lives including (full disclosure) our own. Here is an idea: Let’s make UNO a cause for the tricentennial. The university already has a distinguished reputation in history, including being the primogenitor for the World War II Museum, now let’s use history to help save the university. What a tribute it would be to one day say that New Orleans celebrated its tricentennial by making its middle class even bigger and stronger. n
AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE
myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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JULIA STREET /
WITH POYDRAS THE PARROT
TH E PUR S UIT TO AN S W E R E T E RNA L Q U E S TION S
time to wait for or enjoy your order. The very best roast beef poor boys are messy, so you probably needed to allow an extra minute for a washbasin stop on you way back to class. The least likely of the nearby Freret Street drug stores was Berner Drug Store, 4700 Freret St., nine blocks downtown from campus. Trying to cram an 18-block round trip and a messy lunch into 30 minutes would have been very difficult and chances of running late and getting caught would be unacceptably high; it’s much more likely you went to Richmond’s. Alcee Fortier High School
Dear Julia, When I was a student at Alcee Fortier Sr. High, (Go Tarpons!) in 1953 etc., during our half-hour lunchtime, many of us would race down Freret Street to grab a poor boy. I seem to remember that it was a drug store, with a lunch counter in the back. We were, of course, ignoring the rule not to leave campus, but the roast beef poor boy was so superb we were willing to risk being caught. Racing back to return on time was the hardest part. In spite of all the delicious roast beefs I’ve enjoyed in my dear hometown, I cannot recall having one better than those served there at noon. Any idea what the business was? Thanks for your help. Martha Morazan Fontenot Lake Charles You neglected to tell me whether you up
ran up or down Freret Street, but even quick young feet would be challenged to sneak off campus, get lunch several blocks away and return undetected in 30 minutes or less. There were three drugstores within nine blocks of Alcee Fortier High School. Richmond’s Drug Store was located at 5944 Freret St. Because Richmond’s definitely had a soda fountain and was located only three blocks uptown from campus, I believe it was the drug store most likely to have been your beloved poor boy shop. Around 1953-’54, Robert R. Richmond was the proprietor. The next possible candidate was Bourgeois Drug Store. Edward J. Bourgeois ran the store, which was located at 5100 Freret St., five blocks downtown from campus. While the round trip would have been possible during your allotted lunch break if you hurried, you probably wouldn’t have had
Dear Julia, First let me address part of your answer concerning the Como Club (Julia Street column, October 2014 issue). I was following along quite nicely until your reference to 413 St. Charles Ave. as being “north of Lee Circle”. I thought we New Orleanians used Uptown, downtown, lakeside and riverside to indicate locations of stuff. I guess you meant “St. Charles Avenue downtown of Lee Circle”. Try to stick with tradition, please. Now to my question. I’m an Uptown native (lived across the street from Allen School and the former Fortier High School). Back in the late 1950s I biked with a friend far afield, somewhere to the area between Napoleon and St. Charles avenues and Upperline and Danneel streets. Somewhere in there was an old, abandoned, dilapi-
Win a Court of Two Sisters Jazz Brunch
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Here is a chance to eat, drink and listen to music, and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question. If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for one of two Jazz Brunch gift certificates for two at The Court of Two Sisters in the Vieux Carré. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com. This month’s winners are: Karen Boudreaux, Marrero; and John Hecker, Washington, D.C.
DECEMBER 2014 / myneworleans.com
photo courtesy of the new orleans historic collection
dated movie theatre. Do not tell the cops, but we were able to enter through a slightly ajar door and the place was a mess. I think the projector was on the ground floor, thrown from the balcony above. I remember some rows of seats still in place and maybe a torn screen. Do you have any information on a small neighborhood theatre in that area? Maybe its name and history? I think it was on the uptown river corner (See how handy that is?) of maybe Valence and Baronne streets? Thanks for anything you can do to shine a light on this vague memory, John Hecker Washington, DC I apologize for breaking with tradition. No offense was intended. I chose to use standard cardinal directions because I have among my readers many out-of-town subscribers and people who may not have been born and reared in New Orleans. Plus, Poydras gets confused easily. All he knows is that the lake is north of the city, so he figures out directions based on that. However, I respect and agree with your suggestion. When getting around town, I personally use the directions “uptown, downtown, riverside and lakeside”, not “north, south, east and west.” In the future I’ll stick with tradition but will add clarification, if necessary, for the benefit of my general audience. Your memory is a little too vague for me to positively identify the theater you and your friend explored in the late 1950s. I wonder if it could have been the Fine Arts, at 1735 Constantinople St. In their recent book, There’s One In Your Neighborhood, Rene Brunet and Jack Stewart recalled that, prior to its closing in late July ’58, the Fine Arts had shortened its hours and
was open only on weekends. After a brief closure, the Fine Arts reopened as the Booker T in mid-August ’58. It served as a black audience movie theater for less than a year before first being leased to the Theatre Guild of New Orleans and then sold to the Pleasant Grove Baptist Church. Dear Julia, After watching Lost Restaurants of New Orleans, it brought to memory a restaurant: Bull’s Corner. As a child I walked past the restaurant going to the dentist. His office was located in the Magnolia Building. I remember the area was near Baptist Hospital. Can you give me info on the restaurant? What type of food was served there? Also, was it a restaurant for the medical personnel in that area? I know it was probably in the early 1960s. Any info would be appreciated. Karen Boudreaux Marrero Bull’s Corner opened near Baptist Hospital in late 1967. Like your dentist, it was located in the Magnolia Medical Center Building at 4440 Magnolia St. It served the general public, but because of its proximity to a major hospital and doctors’ offices, many of its patrons were medical personnel. Bull’s Corner had a good salad bar but it was best known for its burgers and steaks. The 1978-’79 edition of food critics Richard and Rima Collin’s New Orleans Restaurant Guide commended Bull’s Corner for having good burgers and desserts as well as one of the city’s better salad bars. The Collins were less complimentary about the steaks, which they found to be inconsistent. Bull’s Corner original Magnolia Street location closed in the late ’80s. n
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the beat MARQUEE
PERSONA
BIZ
EDUCATION
HEALTH
CRIME FIGHTING
PERSONA pg. 24
“ (Brennan’s) was a family business. It was my family. … I wanted to help. I wanted the tradition to continue. That’s why I’m here. I didn’t want this to go outside the family. .” – Ralph Brennan
greg miles PHOTOGRAPH
THE BEAT / MARQUEE
OUR TOP PICKS FOR december EVENTS
Dagmar photo
BY LAUREN LABORDE
Christmas Concerts
Home Fur the Holidays
Hometown (S)hero
Love ’em or hate ’em, Christmas songs are a fact of the holiday season. If you’re in the former camp, there’s plenty of concerts for you. The Louisiana Philharmonic hosts two holiday concerts: “Cirque de Noel” (Dec. 6), which combines holiday music – including selections from films and The Nutcracker – with aerial flyers, jugglers and other circus artists, and Baroque Christmas (Dec. 18) featuring the favorite Messiah. St. Louis Cathedral hosts free holiday concerts Dec. 1-4, 7-10 and 14-17. You can also catch a bonfire and concert at the ferry landing in Algiers Point. And finally, if it isn’t enough for you to just listen to music, there’s the annual caroling in Jackson Square on Dec. 21. For more information, visit LPOMusic.com, StLouisCathedral. org, AlgiersBonfire.com and PatioPlanters.org.
One bizarre tradition in recent New Orleans history is the yearly arrival of The Amazing Acro-Cats, a band of performing felines that have garnered quite a local fanbase (the annual shows at the AllWays Lounge often sell out). It turns out that cats can be trained, and they perform feats that are simple but nonetheless adorable. There is even a cat rock band, The Rock Cats. Catch A Very Meow-y Christmas on Dec. 5-21 at the AllWays Lounge. Information, CircusCats.com
The man behind Bianca Del Rio, the winner of season 6 of Logo’s “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” is Roy Haylock, a Westbank native who was a costume designer in New Orleans for many years before moving to New York. Bianca’s “Rolodex of Hate” tour, which combines drag performance and acerbic stand-up comedy, stops in New Orleans on Dec. 13 at the House of Blues. Information, HouseofBlues.com
CALENDAR Through Jan. 3. Celebration in the Oaks, City Park. Information, NewOrleansCityPark.com
Dec. 5-21. A Christmas Carol, Rivertown Theaters for the Performing Arts. Information, RivertownTheaters.com
Dec. 2-21. Twelfth Night; or What You Will, New Orleans Museum of Art’s Great Hall. Information, NOLAProject.com
Dec. 13. Preservation Resource Center Holiday Home Tour, Garden District. Information, prcno.org
Dec. 6-21. Southern Rep presents A Christmas Carol, Loyola University’s Marquette Hall. Information, SouthernRep.com
Dec. 13-14. Fleur De Tease presents “The Nutcracker,” One Eyed Jacks. Information, OneEyedJacks.com
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SPOTLIGHT New Year’s party at One Eyed Jacks. Weber talked to us about the party and gave us playlist advice.
Describe what your New Year’s Eve party is usually like. I like to think that my
New Year’s Eve shows are very similar to my other parties that I throw because the music is soulful, and there are people from all walks of life who want to dance and enjoy, and most importantly, have fun. I call it “a right on party situation.” I’m always aiming for positive energy on the dance floor with positive and fun music. What are some of your favorite New Year’s Eve songs to play? I don’t have
it also got played on “Soul Train,” artists like Mandrill, Goodie and Instant Funk. But honestly, I never know what I’m gonna play until I decide to pull it out of my record crate to play it. Do you like to stay current with new music? What were some of your favorite albums/artists from 2014?
I stay current with the music I love best, and that’s mostly music from the 1970s through mid ’80s. Rare groove is about finding those millions of records that you’ve never heard because they never made it a Billboard chart. So, while the music that I search on vinyl around the world isn’t newly recorded, it’s still new to me, because I may have just discovered it and I’ve never heard of it before. And then I wanna share it with others. That’s where my DJ life comes in. With that said, my favorite music recorded or released around this year is gonna come from modern jazz – artists like Ambrose Akinmusire, Cécile McLorin Salvant, Christian McBride and many others.
elissa Weber, known more commonly as DJ Soul Sister, has provided the soundtrack to all-night dance parties in New Orleans for over a decade. You likely have encountered the “Queen of Rare Groove” on WWOZ, where she hosts her long-running “Soul Power,” or her famous HUSTLE parties, which moved from its longtime home at Mimi’s in the Marigny to the Hi-Ho Lounge amid a noise ordinance controversy in 2013. For the 12th year, she hosts a “Soul Train”-themed
special New Year’s Eve songs, per se, but my New Year’s Eve party theme has been “Soul Train” for the past 11 years. I specialize in soulful music from the 1970s through mid ’80s – that’s all I play and that’s all I want to play. So with the “Soul Train” theme, I may play more familiar funk, disco and R&B classics from that time period than I’d normally play in one of my regular rare groove-type sets with the obscure rarities and things. Classics would be, like, Michael Jackson and Marvin Gaye. Rare groove is just that – soulful stuff that you may have never heard before, but
Dec. 20. New Orleans Bowl, Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Information, NewOrleansBowl.org
Dec. 23. Lightwire Theater: A Very Electric Christmas, Joy Theater. Information, TheJoyTheater.com
Dec. 20-21. Ballet Hysell’s The Nutcracker, Jefferson Performing Arts Center. Information, jpas.org
Dec. 27-28. Friends of the Cabildo’s Creole Christmas, 1850 House Museum Store. Information, FriendsOfTheCabildo.com
New Year, New Groove
DJ Soul Sister hosts a soulful New Year’s Eve party
M
What’s your advice for someone creating a playlist for a party? Play what you
love. It’s your party. If you’re not happy, everyone else will be miserable. A happy party is the best party. n
Dec. 22. NOCCA and Daniel Price Memorial Fund’s Home for the Holidays, House of Blues. Information, NOCCA.com
Craig Mulcahy PHOTOGRAPH
myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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THE BEAT / PERSONA
Ralph Brennan The guy in charge BY LAUREN LABORDE
W
hen I walk into Brennan’s, the orchid-pink Royal Street building – a veritable New Orleans landmark – is filled with the hubbub of a construction project that probably needed to be done yesterday. Dust is flying, construction tools are sounding, little meetings are happening everywhere. When I ask Ralph Brennan, the guy in charge of all of this who never even thought he’d be in charge, when he thinks they’ll be open, he just says “Soon.”
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There is a lot of work to be done when there’s a culinary institution poised to be reborn. The restaurant was the locus of legal woes and Brennan family feuding. Ralph Brennan, cousin of the former owners, bought the property in a sheriff’s auction along with business partner Terry White. The new Brennan’s seems like it won’t be your overpriced, overindulgent French Quarter brunch spot (don’t worry: there will still be bananas Foster, which Brennan’s invented). First, Ralph Brennan’s restaurants (Ralph’s on the Park, Red Fish Grill, café b, Heritage Grill, Café NOMA in the New Orleans Museum of Art and Jazz Kitchen in Downtown Disney) tend to have a refined take on Louisiana cuisine. And with Slade Rushing, former chef of the hip restaurant MiLa known for its deconstructed dishes, at the helm, the menu will showcase a contemporary approach to Creole cooking. As for the property itself, the new dining room will face Royal Street, where passersby peering in can see the restaurant’s lush courtyard, which includes a wine cellar that will open later. Amid all the construction, I talked to Ralph Brennan about his latest venture.
Q: When you first knew Brennan’s
would close, what was your reaction? Sad. It was a family business. It was my family. So I was definitely saddened by the whole thing. But as I told them … I wanted to help. I wanted the tradition to continue. That’s why I’m here. I didn’t want this to go outside the family. I grew up in this restaurant. I used to play in this restaurant as a child. I was
greg miles PHOTOGRAPH
Age: 62 Occupation: Restaurateur, Ralph Brennan Group Education: Tulane University Favorite movie: Top Gun Favorite book: “I don’t have a favorite book, but I started reading Richard Campanella’s book about Bourbon Street … I love the way he writes and I love the history.” Favorite musician: Diana Ross Favorite vacation spot: Aspen, Colorado Favorite restaurant: “No comment” talking to one of my cousins the other day and we were sharing stories, and there are a lot of similarities. He’s a lot younger but he played here, too. For Mardi Gras – my mother was a Mardi Gras fanatic – we’d come down here and sit in one of the dining rooms next to the balcony and we’d do our homework and have dinner. And then the parades were still coming through the French Quarter so we’d go out on the balcony. It was great because you could almost touch the floats. We’d catch beads and my mother would make us walk around the dining room and give beads out to the guests who didn’t get a chance to see the parade.
Q: Where does the tradi-
tion of the bells you give out around the holidays originate? That’s a great question. I don’t know if I know the answer to that. It might have started at Commander’s in 1974 when the family split and went its separate ways. My side of the family moved up to Commander’s and it probably started there, and the next restaurant after that was Mr. B’s and we just carried it on for our side of the family. It’s kind of fun. Pe-
riodically during the holiday season I’ll be over at one of the offices in a meeting or be in an elevator and hear the jingling of the bells. And there are some people who like to collect them all.
Q: What wisdom have you
gleaned over the years about running a business with family? Well I think the most important thing you need to do is to run it as a business, not a family business. And what I mean by that is family members have to produce and have to perform, just like everyone else. Not everyone can be the chief, and everyone needs to find their niche. There are some things I can do very well and some things I can’t do. I think in families you have to find that same kind of niche. For example, if someone’s good with financials instead of being in the front of the house, then they’re in the office. I have a son who loves to cook. I don’t know how long he’ll stay in the kitchen. He went to culinary school, so maybe he’ll stay in the kitchen. I have a daughter who loves the front of the house.
Q: Do you see yourself
continuing to expand or after this do you want to relax for a little while? (Laughs) I’m laughing because I didn’t expect this. Honestly, I was thinking of slowing down a bit with the other restaurants, but this came about and I said let’s go. I don’t know. I’m going to go take a long nap one day when this is finished. n
True confession My favorite meal is a cheeseburger, fries and a chocolate milkshake. myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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THE BEAT / BIZ
Aloft Hotel
Room Service
Hotels hatch new brands to grab market share By Kathy Finn
T
he city’s diverse population of downtown hotels will welcome a new player early next year as an Aloft Hotel opens in a revamped former office building on Baronne Street. The Aloft brand, owned by Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide Inc., is among a string of fledgling hotel brands that bill themselves as technology-centric “lifestyle” inns catering to travelers in their 20s and 30s. New Orleans’ latest player in this “millennial” marketing segment is the new AC Hotel, a “fashion-conscious” brand founded in Spain by Antonio Catalán and brought under the wing of Marriott International Inc. through a joint venture in 2011. When the AC opened last month at the site of the former Cotton Exchange Hotel on Carondelet Street, it became the first AC Hotel to operate outside of Europe. The AC and Aloft hotels, which are located a block apart in the Central Business District, likely are the first in a series of stylish new hotel brands that will take up residence in New Orleans during the next few years, drawn not only by the city’s inherent charms but also by its profit potential. “These brands are coming in part because New Orleans has a European feel and is a good place to open, but they’re also coming because it’s such a strong market,” says hotel industry analyst Adam Lair, managing director at HVS Consulting and Valuation Services in New Orleans. Data from travel industry analysts at Tennessee-based Smith Travel Research show that occupancies in New Orleans-area hotels averaged almost 70 percent through the third quarter of this year, with averages at some downtown inns running substantially higher.
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Average daily room rates in New Orleans topped $143. Not only was that 24 percent above the average for hotels across the country, it was also well above rates in such cities as Atlanta, Orlando and Nashville, where average prices ranged from $92 to $115 per night. Even more important than these numbers is the figure representing revenue per available room. Considered by hotel owners as the most crucial indicator of performance, this figure hit an average just below $100 in New Orleans, a whopping 30 percent higher than the comparable figure for the nation at large. Lair says these indicators are all the more impressive given that local hotels hit these levels in the year following one that contained major visitor events. New Orleans hosted a Super Bowl early in 2013, and generally local hotels might have expected that business would soften this year. Instead, revenue growth through the first nine months of ’14 nearly equaled the growth for all of last year.
Rooms By Brand Family The New Orleans area is home to nearly 38,000 hotel rooms spread across hundreds of inns that wear the flags of many different hotel companies. This list shows the hotel companies that operate 1,000 or more rooms in the city. Company No. of rooms Independent companies....8,338 Hilton............................... 5,843 Marriott........................... 5,342 IHG................................... 3,481 Wyndham........................ 2,905 Choice.............................. 2,782 Starwood......................... 2,641 Hyatt................................ 1,617 La Quinta......................... 1,122
Source: HVS Consulting and Valuation Services, New Orleans
Lair points to several reasons. One is that the local supply of hotel rooms has grown slowly. Available land for building new hotels is scarce in New Orleans, and when developers do find spaces, they often face hurdles in the form of stiff zoning requirements. In addition, the local inventory of older buildings that might be converted into hotels is thinning. Many builders in the past have latched onto downtown buildings that are classified as “historic” so that they could benefit from generous tax credits that accrue to historic properties adapted for new uses. Those projects have taken many such buildings off the market. While these factors have dampened supply growth, demand for hotel rooms has continued to pick up. Lair says one reason has to do with a basic change in the visitor profile.
The local visitor market has long derived its primary strength from the convention business, and leisure travelers – or tourists – generally have been seen as a less powerful component of the market. But the city’s rising popularity as a visitor destination during the past several years is bringing more leisure travelers to New Orleans. “A bigger portion of demand is coming from transients, or leisure travelers, so the city has a better base to build off of than it used to,” Lair says. He believes the increasing strength of the tourist trade coupled with continued health in the convention sector is bringing the New Orleans visitor market a stability it has not had before. “We really don’t have any major events this year, or a particularly strong convention schedule, but we’re still seeing growth in (hotel revenue),” he says. The performance of local hotels helps explain why the city is beginning to see new brands popping up. Hotel giants like Marriott, Hilton and Starwood – all of which own multiple brands – want to grow here but don’t want to compete with themselves by putting the same names across a street from one another. So, in cities around the country, they are attempting to carve new market niches using new brand names. Along with AC Hotels by Marriott, and Starwood’s Aloft Hotels, for instance, Hilton recently launched its own millennial-leaning brand called Canopy, billed as an “energizing new hotel” offering a personal lifestyle experience. With an AC Hotel already operating in the CBD and an Aloft Hotel soon to follow, the chances are probably good that a Canopy isn’t far behind. n
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THE BEAT / EDUCATION
Virtual Learning
The sometimes alternative to brick-and-mortar by Dawn Ruth Wilson
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aterrio Dickerson Jr. wants to be a veterinarian when he grows up, but first he must learn to use a laptop without pecking at the keyboard. He is only 9 and in the fourth grade, but keyboarding skills moved up the importance list in October when his mother enrolled him in an online school. Until then, he had attended a regular face-to-face school in Gentilly. Now he meets his teachers and classmates via a webcam and submits his lessons electronically from the family’s glass-topped dining table meant to accommodate six. On any given day the table is covered with colorfully illustrated textbooks and workbooks. Safety glasses, a magnifying glass and test tubes for science and molding dough for art class also take up space on this make-do desk. When Laterrio began to be bullied in the third grade, his mother, Dimonique Wilkerson, tried working with school officials to solve the problem. She also contacted the bullying child’s mother, but neither resolved the aggressive behavior against her son. Transferring to a different school isn’t easy after the fall enrollment period, Wilkerson says, so she turned to Louisiana Connections Academy, a virtual school of 1,800 students chartered by the Louisiana Board of Elementary and Secondary Education and headquartered in Baton
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Rouge. Like most people, she didn’t know virtual learning was possible for public elementary children, but her mother learned about the program through a television advertisement just as Wickerson began scouting for a new school. Now Laterrio is one of thousands of K-12th grade students nationally and internationally who attend accredited schools via the Internet. “I like it a little good,” Laterrio says. “I like this better because I don’t like getting bullied.” About 18,000 students are home-schooled in Louisiana, the state department of education website says, but parents must develop curricula and pay for costs related to the learning process. Parents who enroll their children in Louisiana’s two virtual public schools, however, get all the benefits of free, accredited public education while reaping the benefits of applying it in the home-environment. “It’s a nice compromise,” says Glenda Jones, lead principal of LACA. “We get quite a few students from the high school environment. Parents like the accountability.” Children attending LACA and Louisiana Virtual Charter Academy take all state required student performance tests, such as LEAP. They also earn a Louisiana high school degree, just as students who attend “brick-andmortar” schools, the term used by virtual educators to distinguish the web-based schools from the traditional classroom models. They are just two of the specialized charter schools that have opened up in recent years Craig Mulcahy PHOTOGRAPH
as the school choice movement has swept the globe. International Connections Academy enrolls 50,000 students nationally and internationally, Jones says. The school’s delivery of K-12 education to any geographic location meets the demands of technologically advanced and highly mobile societies. Online schools allow child actors to be schooled while working and allows family members to travel with working parents without sacrificing quality education. One set of parents in Louisiana, for example, had the opportunity to sail around the Panama Canal this year, Jones says, and were able to do it because of the availably of virtual schooling. They plan to reenroll their children in their previous brickand-mortar school when they return from the sailing adventure, she says. Most parents have more practical reasons for choosing online education. Jones says that many parents choose LACA because nearby schools are academically weak or because their children have health issues. Another large group of parents choose online education for safety reasons such the bullying problems experienced by Laterrio. Via the web, Laterrio takes instruction in language arts, math, science, social studies, arts and music, education technology, speech therapy and study skills. Several times a week he attends live sessions by way of webcams with teachers and other students, but mostly he reads textbook assignments, takes quizzes and submits written work on his own. Wilkerson, his “learning coach,” stays in touch with teachers to monitor his progress, submits attendance
sheets and does a good deal of prodding. “Keeping him on task is a major thing, partly because he’s this young,” she says. “There are times when I come home, and he has done his live lesson but he hasn’t turned in his other lessons and he’s watching TV. Then I have to fuss.” Wilkerson, who attends college on Mondays and Wednesdays and works as a bakery manager on weekends, must leave him working on his own sometimes, but she’s able to monitor his daily activities through telephone connected internet. She monitors his electronic grade book and keeps track of what lessons are due, submitted and overdue. On the final Friday of October, Laterrio’s Daily Planner showed that he had submitted 33 lessons, but three were overdue. LACA provides opportunities for children and teenagers to meet and interact with the intent of duplicating the traditional school environment as much as possible. Students take field trips to theaters and museums and attend prom-like parties, ring and graduation ceremonies, but sometimes they miss a regular school anyway. Wilkerson says that the instruction Laterrio currently receives is more advanced than what he was getting at the face-to-face school. On the other hand, virtual learning can’t replace the socialization students enjoy in a safe, onsite school environment. In the spring, she plans to find a suitable brick-and-mortar school. “He misses interacting with other children,” she says. Jones says that it isn’t unusual for students to go back and forth between school types. Virtual learning, she says, “is not for everybody.” n
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THE BEAT / HEALTH Kenneth Hanning survived several months of his early life in a locked isolation ward at Charity Hospital. The polio left him with a lower extremity paralysis. After studying art in New York City, he attended LSU. His intense upper arm strength led to a Times-Picayune story with a headline he recalls as “boy with polio performs on the 1962 LSU gymnastic team.”
Isolations and Quarantines New Orleans Missed A Bullet; Dallas Didn’t by Brobson Lutz M.D.
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ew Orleans dodged two bullets this past fall: No hurricanes and no Ebola. On the other hand, Dallas, a city with a much larger medical infrastructure, was hit by a cannon ball. Ebola paralyzed our news coverage as effectively as polio paralyzed our youth in the 1950s. “We were behind a locked door with a guard. I was only 5 or 6 years old, but I remember being in that huge ward with 40 to 50 other polio victims. Except for your mother and father, the guards would allow visitors,” says Kenneth Hanning, a 71-year-old jewelry designer and artist.
“They put us in quarantine and treated us like lepers. There wasn’t a vaccine to prevent polio when I had it in 1949. It affected both my legs, which was considered very serious, but not as bad as the ones in iron lungs. I saw them, too. They were on another floor.” Technically speaking, Hanning was isolated, not quarantined. Isolation refers to the separation of sick persons who may be contagious to others. But isolation never slowed the spread of polio. By the time nerve paralysis developed, the enterovirus that triggered the damage was long gone from the intestinal tract. Isolation simply gave an impression that something was being done. Hospitals have different isolation barriers based on the infection diagnosed or suspected. Needlestick precautions were once reserved for patients with HIV, hepatitis B and hepatitis C. Now these precautions are wisely applied to everyone. A person can be a carrier of transmissible bloodborne infections without having a diagnosis or even symptoms. Contact isolation is typically for persons with infections that can be spread by hands. Staphylococcal skin infections are an example, and masks add little if any protection. Enteric isolation is geared towards infections spread via feces such as salmonella and hepatitis A. Respiratory isolation is a bit more involved, with various masks depending on the pathogen of concern. And reverse isolation supposedly protects persons with damaged immune systems from the viruses and bacteria living on their caregivers. These various isolation categories are common in all community hospitals. And the more masks and protective garb a caretaker has to adorn, the less care the patient usually gets. Actually, these routine isolation practices are probably less effective than plain old good hygiene and hospital cleanness. Most health care-related infections are from the patient’s own bacteria and viruses. Treatment with antibiotics and other antimicrobials eliminate good bacteria and fuel the emergence of more resistant bugs. And all sorts of medical treatments – from steroids to chemotherapy – assault already impaired immune systems, making patients more prone to shingles, herpes and fungal infections. Ebola showed how ineffective routine isolation techniques
Quarantines vs. immunizations
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Quarantines rarely snuffle out infectious diseases, but immunizations do. The road to an effective vaccine is usually cluttered with false starts and bumps. The eradication of poliomyelitis in the United States was no exception. Jonas Salk was out of the gate first with his vaccine, but Albert Sabin and his oral vaccine won the race. And part of that race happened right here in New Orleans. Salk paired up with Cutter Laboratories to immunize America. Unfortunately, and perhaps related to a race to market, two batches of the vaccine contained a wild polio virus that had evaded
DECEMBER 2014 / myneworleans.com
the inactivation process and contaminated the vials, syringes and arms of several thousand children in 1955. Cutter Laboratories sent vaccine samples to decision-making leaders in the medical community, including Dr. Alton Ochsner. His first grandson, Eugene Allen Davis Jr., received the vaccine on April 26, 1955. The next day the vaccine was recalled based on a surge in vaccine-related polio cases first identified in California. Ochsner’s 30-month-old grandson “died of infantile paralysis eight days after he received the Salk anti-polio vaccine” according to a greg miles photograph
are for infections spread by close contact with vomit, feces and blood. The Dallas situation revolved around the first case of Ebola diagnosed in the United States and the secondary infections of two nurses taking care of him at the height of his illness. It caught the Centers for Disease Control with their pants down. Occupational infections are nothing new for health care workers. Needle sticks and blood exposures commonly infected health care workers with hepatitis B, once known as serum hepatitis, before there was a protective vaccine. In addition, health care workers are still at risk of contracting HIV from needlestick injuries. A scabies outbreak infested several University Hospital employees a few years ago. But until Ebola visited Dallas, modern health care workers had never faced an occupationally acquired infection that could turn lethal in just a few days. Contagious diseases lacking specific cures and protective immunizations fuel quarantines. A quarantine is a legally imposed barrier to separate and restrict movement of well persons who may be incubating an infectious disease. Quarantines can arise from being in contact with a known infection or just from coming from an area with reported infections. In the Old Testament, lepers wore bells to announce their presence. Such verbal cues were not quarantines but what we call social distancing today.
Fourteenth century Italians first imposed official quarantines. They feared the spread of plague, a bacterial disease spread by infected fleas living on rats. Port officials required foreign ships to moor in sight but offshore for 40 days before loading or unloading. But disease-free sailors didn’t translate into disease-free rats. Improved sanitation and rat control stopped the Black Death, not quarantines. The same old tool was called out in our yellow fever days. Port cities, including those up and down the Mississippi River, turned to quarantine during yellow fever outbreaks in the 1800s. Again, quarantine never controlled yellow fever. That came later with mosquito control. Quarantines can apply to animals as well as people. For example, Great Britain required a six-month quarantine for all of dogs entering its borders for almost a century. Even as effective rabies immunizations for dogs developed, British authorities refused to accept proof of vaccination certifications from other countries. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had to hire a yacht to drop anchor near the Tower of London to be near their four pet pooches in the 1960s. The British quarantine law stayed on the books until 2012. Now the six-month quarantine is history, but the certification process that took its place involves more paperwork than required to get a Louisiana homestead exemption. n
newspaper report at the time. “It was a scary moment for us. We received a polio vaccine that was actually causing polio,” says Dr. David Snyder, a retired pediatrician living in North Carolina. He and his three siblings received that same vaccine. “I remember it well,” says Dr. Stanton Shuler, a semiretired Ochsner pediatrician. “Dr. Ochsner’s grandson died. It was from the live virus. A young doctor taking care of the child also came down with polio but he survived. All blame went to the vaccine.”
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THE BEAT / HEALTHBEAT Ochsner Medical Center’s West Bank Campus released its 2015 Childbirth and Parenting Class Schedule, offering something for the needs of every parent. From prenatal “Birthing and Beyond” and belly dancing classes to learning support groups for firsttime parents with newborns (to 6 months), Ochsner has a class for it. The classes range from free to $100 and cover the basics of breastfeeding, infant safety, Lamaze, prenatal health, labor and delivery, safe babysitting and management and a sibling’s class for children to prepare for a new brother or sister. Call 391-5529, email familyunitwb@ochsner.org or visit Ochsner.Org/FamilyUnitWB.
According to a recent report from Louisiana Medical News, Louisiana ranks second highest in the United States in breast cancer and fourth in cervical cancer deaths. A Centers for Disease Control and Prevention grant extension and increase for 2014 to ’15 to the Louisiana Breast and Cervical Health Program however, aims to help improve that ranking. The grant will assist the LBCHP in providing additional free breast and cervical cancer screenings, which includes mammograms and Pap tests, to low-income, uninsured and underinsured women in the state. Call (888) 599-1073 or visit Lbchp.org.
The CDC also recently awarded the LSU Health New Orleans School of Public Health a $2.2 million grant. According to a press release by the LSU Health Sciences Center New Orleans, the award is aimed at young breast cancer survivors in the Gulf South for programs to increase availability of health information and support services. It will be dispersed over a five-year period. For more information, visit PublicHealth.Lsuhsc.Edu. – Melanie Warner Spencer 32
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THE BEAT / crime fighting
An Early Christmas Pieces from a drive-by shooting By Allen Johnson Jr.
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o you know what happened to you?” Alanna Romain, 32, mother of five children, remembers the doctors at LSU Interim Hospital asking after her surgery. She recalls replying in a groggy voice: “Yes: I got shot.” Bullets tore into her leg and stomach area. The surgeons stitched her up. “You’re going to be okay.” After the anesthesia wore off, she says, the doctors told her more about the Aug. 10 drive-by shooting in the Lower 9th Ward that left two people dead. Five were others wounded, including Alanna, her daughter Halanni Romain, then 13, and her two youngest sons, Kyle Romain, then 4, and Jamal Riley, 2. “They [doctors] said both my boys had been shot, too, but they were doing very well.” Kyle was blind. Jamal suffered a serious brain injury, but the boys would survive. It was an early Christmas for the Romains, a large black family in New Orleans, boasting at least three generations of homebuilders, masons and bricklayers. “My first thanks is to God,” says contractor Randy Romain, 26, an uncle to Kyle, Jamal and Halanni. “I didn’t lose a family member. People in ‘The Incident’ lost family.” *** Shortly before 8 p.m. Sun., Aug. 10, New Orleans police say, armed men in a darkcolored Honda rolled up on the 5400 block of Burgundy Street. They were supposedly looking to resolve a dispute with Terrance McBride, 33, an alleged drug dealer with a gun and a girlfriend who allegedly lived in the residential neighborhood. The gunmen apparently spotted McBride and opened fire, police say, without regard for innocent women and children nearby. McBride, the intended target of the shooting, was one of two people killed in the attack. The second victim was Jasmine Anderson, 16. Alanna Romain and her daughter, Halanni, were standing on the porch of the family
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rental home when the shooting started. Alanna was shot in the abdomen and leg. Bullet fragments struck Halanni in the knee. Kyle and Jamal were shot as they played in the yard of a next-door neighbor’s house. Authorities quickly arrested six people in connection with the drive-by shooting. Randy Romain says the family doesn’t want to appear ungrateful to law enforcement, but would have preferred the pro-active police patrols that discourage reprisal shootings in other parts of New Orleans. Jamal, 2, clung to life after a bullet blew away part of his skull. Doctors feared they would lose him, family members say, but the boy with the bright smile pulled through. He was sullen and uncommunicative for days after the shooting, but brightened while recovering at Children’s Hospital with his hospitalized brother Kyle, family members say. Kyle was permanently blinded by the gunfire. A bullet smashed through his head and cut through an optic nerve. “The bullet went through both eyes,” says Pamela Romain, the boys’ step-grandmother and a former information technology project manager from California. Kyle’s left eye was shattered. A prosthesis was put in his right eye. Before he was shot, the boy eagerly anticipated the summer movie Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, in which the animated crime-fighters heroically battle an evil kingpin. “He never got to see the movie,” Kyle’s uncle, Randy Romain, says angrily. “And the doctors say he’ll never see again.” Halanni, the third Romain child injured in the shooting, disagrees. “My brother will see again if he has to wait for me to become a doctor,” says Halanni, a confident and gifted student at a Kipp Academy high school. The rest of the Romain family is also determined to see that Jamal and Kyle grow up to live normal, productive lives despite their overnight disabilities. “We’re not giving up on college for them,’ says the boys’ grandfather, Wayne Romain Sr. *** Six weeks after the shooting, Mr. Romain hosts a festive family birthday party for grandson Kyle, who will turn 5 Craig Mulcahy PHOTOGRAPH
in several days. Kyle and Jamal are surrounded by doting aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, other relatives and family friends. There is plenty of red beans and rice, barbecued chicken, refreshments, laughter and cheering of pro football teams on a big screen TV. A huge cake awaits the blind boy, who sports a new silver Oakland Raiders cap. A thick wad of dollar bills is pinned to his pullover shirt. At this moment, he’s outside “riding” a new bicycle on the sidewalk – with the help of family friend Ryan Williams Jr., 15, who steadies the handlebars. Inside the house, Jamal, 2, arrives in the front room of the party, during one of his many orbits through the house. He grins, constantly, from under a blue protective helmet with a Saints decal he has worn since the shooting. He will wear the helmet until he has surgery to install a non-metal plate in his head. The boys’ sister, Halanni Romain, now 14, is walking without crutches. An aspiring anesthesiologist and pediatrician, Halanni recalls questioning her future medical peers in detail as they prepared her for surgery to remove the bullet fragments from her knee. She says she was satisfied with their responses – except for her anesthesiologist. “He just told me to count backwards,” Halanni says, apparently still annoyed. Alanna and her three wounded children have all been diagnosed with post-traumatic stress, says step-grandmother Pamela Romain. Kyle sometimes wakes up in the middle of the night, crying about “fire,” family members say. Barbara Romain, the boys’ grandmother, says Kyle believes he and his family were all hurt in a “fire” – not a drive-by shooting. “He says he saw a ‘fire’
coming from the street.” Halanni’s 16-year-old friend, Jasmine, was killed in the shooting. While speaking with a reporter, Halanni becomes noticeably irritated by a constant pounding coming from another room. It is her blue-helmeted brother, Jamal, celebrating Kyle’s birthday, by banging on his new set of drums. *** Six weeks after the shooting robbed him of his sight, Kyle clutches a big, soft Ninja Turtle. Each of the four turtle characters is named for a Renaissance artist. Kyle’s turtle is Donnatello, distinguished by his purple mask. Named after an Italian sculptor and artist, Donnatello the Turtle is an engineer who by reputation prefers to resolve conflicts without violence, but who always backs his brothers in battle. Kyle’s tiny fingers trace the outline of the stuffed toy. The blind child cocks his head upward, as if listening for the coming rescue of his superheroes. Jamal suddenly pulls on Donnatello. Kyle pulls the turtle back: “No Jamal!” A tugo-war ensues. “They’re still boys,” the boys’ grandmother, Barbara Romain sighs. Pamela Romain nods in agreement and offers words of thanks. “We are thankful to everybody for their prayers, for reaching out to us and for all the information people are giving us [about] the injuries to Kyle and Jamal. We need any kind of information to help Kyle continue his education and live a normal a life as possible.” n This column is dedicated to the memory of my father, Allen Johnson Sr., who died at 90 on Oct. 17, 2014. His many talents included covering crime and the New Orleans Police Department as a reporter for The Item newspaper in the 1950s.
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LOCAL COLOR IN TUNE MUSIC HISTORY READ+SPIN CHARACTERS JOIE D’EVE MODINE GUNCH CHRONICLES HOME
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IN TUNE pg. 38
On Dec. 10, ILL DOOTS will be at the Circle Bar. This collective of artists began as a series of informal dorm room jam sessions and has expanded to an eight (sometimes plus) member ensemble with a huge sound.
LOCAL COLOR / IN TUNE
Local promoter SimplePlay presents Alanna Royale at Gasa Gasa
Uptown Downtown What is New Year’s Eve in New Orleans without some great musical accompaniment? I recommend two excellent and long standing NYE traditions. First, if you’re Uptown, Galactic will be holding court at Tipitina’s. Galactic has grown quite comfortable in their roll as the stewards collecting and collating the sounds of New Orleans. Expect a packed house and any number of guest appearances. If you happen to be downtown, check out DJ Soul Sister’s 12th annual Soul Train party at One Eyed Jacks. I guarantee you will dance into 2015.
All Is Wild
Rollicking through December BY mike griffith
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he New Orleans music scene in December begins with a seriously excellent four nights of music. First, Kat Dahlia will play the House of Blues on the 2nd. Dahlia hails from Cuba by way of Miami and has a remarkable flow on the mic; look for great things from her down the road. On the 3rd at the Howlin’ Wolf, hometown hip-hop artist Jay Electronica will open for Common. This will be a seriously excellent night of old school hip-hop and is not to be missed. If you’re looking for something a bit calmer, that same night Alanna Royale will bring their infectious blend of funk and soul to Gasa Gasa. Their new record, Achilles, is incredibly catchy and their shows are guaranteed to make move your feet. The next night (the 4th if you’re keeping track), Cleveland-based art-pop band, mr. Gnome, will be taking the stage at Siberia. On their haunting new record, The Heart of a Dark Star, they continue to build their
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sonic landscapes. Expect an eclectic but unified field of musical experimentation. Finally, on the 5th, NPR favorites Johnnyswim will bring their Christmas show to the House of Blues. These folk-pop troubadours are in the middle of the contemporary Americana scene. It will be interesting to see what they have in store for a holiday celebration. If you have any strength left after that long week of music, there are several other shows of note this month. On the 10th ILL DOOTS will be at the Circle Bar. This collective of artists began as a series of informal dorm room jam sessions and has expanded to an eight (sometimes plus) member ensemble with a huge sound. In the relatively small space of the Circle Bar, you can expect to be right up with the band as they generate their fantastic brand of hip-hop. Old school ska act Mustard Plug will be at Siberia on the 14th. Their
latest album was funded through Kickstarter and continues the big horn-driven sound of their early work. Dan Potthast, a cofounder of MU330, is opening this show. Potthast’s latest record, My Living Room, is a wonderful collection of acoustic songs. This will be a great show for those of us who cut our teeth during the mid-1990s ska boom. n
To contact Mike Griffith about music news, upcoming performances and recordings, email Mike@MyNewOrleans. com or contact him through Twitter @Minima. Note: Dates are subject to change Playlist of mentioned bands available at: bit.ly/ InTune12-14.
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LOCAL COLOR / MUSIC history
Shades of Praise A choir without a church BY JASON BERRY
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ass choirs are associated with churches where they rehearse and have a steady place to sing, Sunday after Sunday. Shades of Praise has no church. They rehearse Thursday nights at Loyola University where one of the founders, Michael Cowan, is a psychologist and theologian at the Institute of Ministry. Cowan and pop vocalist Philip Manuel launched Shades in 2000 to sing gospel and build relationships across racial lines. This mixture of idealism and spiritual hydrology has come far. Shades of Praise is a fixture in the Jazz Fest Gospel Tent and has gained attention for its Christmas album, Celebrate the Child. Celebrate the Child is a rolling blend of standards (“Joy To the World,” “Oh, Holy Night”) and lyrics rarely heard, like “Celebrate the Child” and “Oh, Come and Worship.” Gospel music exerts a long reach on people outside of churches, and a way of luring even the long-strayed to conversions that often find salvation tides in bodies rolling and cries of forgiveness and rejoicing. For Gregory Probst, Director of Communications at Freeport-McMoran, the road to Shades wasn’t a born-again experience, but rather a pilgrim’s tale of the spirit found: “My mom’s from New Orleans; her father played piano in Storyville and did vaudeville. My dad’s from St. Louis. When I was a child, his job with Kaiser Aluminum brought us to Gramercy. He was elected to the parish school board in the 1960s; he supported integration. We received threats. A riot shut down the high school my senior year. We had separate black and white proms and to this day separate high school reunions, which I did not attend. That background pulled me toward something that seeks to tear down such walls.
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… “I joined Shades of Praise in 2004 after reading a Times-Picayune series by Bruce Nolan. He accompanied the choir to Ireland and Northern Ireland. They performed in both Catholic and Protestant churches. The visit sparked a dialogue and the formation of an ecumenical youth choir in Omagh. The U.S. had begun the airstrikes in Iraq the day they arrived. One of the members on the tour bus, as quoted by Nolan, said that he wished that we could send more gospel choirs throughout the world than bombs. I thought, ‘I want to be around dreamers like that.’ … “Our Thursday night rehearsals are therapeutic. I can’t imagine a better way to round out a busy week than to harmonize with people I love, and to end with a circle where we pray for each other and sing some more.” During this month three performances were scheduled for the choir: Dec. 7 in St. Louis Cathedral’s Christmas series (6 p.m.); Dec. 10 at St. Charles Presbyterian’s holiday series (7 p.m.), and Dec. 13 at the Convention Center for Christmas in the District (5 p.m.). n
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LOCAL COLOR / READ+SPIN
JAZZ: Celebrate the season with the new Christmas CD by ward-winning trumpeter and bandleader, Irvin Mayfield. A New Orleans Creole Christmas marks Mayfield’s first album of holiday music. Holiday classics, such as “O Tannenbaum – O Christmas Tree” and a gospel-inspired “Silent Night,” as well as modern versions of favorites such as “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas,” all were recorded at Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse on Bourbon Street.
NEW ORLEANS: Empire of Sin: A Story of Sex, Jazz, Murder and the Battle for Modern New Orleans by historian Gary Krist offers a peek into the scandalous history of the local elite’s fight to reform the Crescent City. This page-turner traipses through the rise and fall of the Storyville red light district, tackles Mafia tales and recounts the murderous path of a violent serial killer, the Axeman of New Orleans. During a reading at Octavia Books, Krist discussed the serious history and research that went into the book, citing his close work with the Historic New Orleans Collection. “The city’s elite tried to normalize New Orleans,” Krist said during his talk. “They tried to make it respectable, and we all know how that turned out.”
COOKING: Jilly Lagasse and Jessie Lagasse Swanson’s new cookbook, The Lagasse Girls’: Big Flavor Bold Taste and No Gluten, is the sisters’ second book about gluten-free cooking. The book features gluten-free versions of childhood favorites, as well as recipes from their famous dad, Emeril Lagasse. It is a thoughtful gift for loved ones living with celiac or gluten-sensitivity.
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LOCAL RADIO: Images Of America: New Orleans Radio, the latest book by executive producer and special projects director at WWL-TV Dominic Massa, is perfect for the radio history buff on your gift list. Loaded with more than 200 vintage images, get the scoop on New Orleans’ original radio stations.
BY melanie warner spencer Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Melanie Spencer, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005.
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LOCAL COLOR / CAST OF CHARACTERS
Mini-Saint Sister Donna’s Sweetheart statue BY george gurtner
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lash: An Ursuline Nun at the National Shrine of Our Lady of Prompt Succor on State Street has a sweetheart! But, that’s OK, the sweetheart in question has captured the hearts and minds of countless thousands of other men, women and children in New Orleans and in foreign places where requests have been made and prayers have been answered. Sister Donna Hyndman O.S.U., assistant director of the National Shrine, directs a visitor to the tiny room – “A shrine within a shrine,” as one of the nuns calls it – at the rear of the massive building in Uptown New Orleans. It is a simple place, no bigger than a closet, furnished with a kneeler and a glass enclosed miniature plaster replica of the larger Our Lady of Prompt Succor statue in the shrine. “The Sweetheart came from the west of France, a monastery known as Pont-Saint-Esprit,” Sister Donna says. “In 1785 Sister Felicite went into the attic and found it atop a pile of rubbish. She was very upset that anybody would treat this statue of Our Lady in such a way. At the time, Sister Felicite and two others sisters had requested to be allowed to join the Ursuline sisters in New Orleans. Spain ruled New Orleans and the request needed the approval of the Spanish king. The sisters had waited and waited. Sister Felicite may have seen her discovering the little statue as a sign. She fell to her knees and prayed, ‘My good mother, if you will take away the obstacles that stand in the way of our departure, I will carry you to New Orleans and I promise to have you honored there by every means in my power.’ Within a month, Sister received permission to come to New Orleans, and she carried the Sweetheart statue with her
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to the Old Ursuline Convent on Chartres Street.” Nor did the “miracles” end there. The Sweetheart statue is said to have played a part in turning back fires that threatened to engulf the French Quarter but were stopped at the gates of the convent. Victory over the British in the Battle of New Orleans is ascribed to prayers before images of Our Lady of Prompt Succor – images that included the sweetheart statue. On a breezy autumn afternoon, Elaine St. Pierre finds her way to the darkened corner of the shrine and kneels before the Sweetheart. She lingers there for nearly and hour and a smile shows on her face as she makes the sign of the cross. “She heard my prayers,” St. Pierre says. “Thank you mama!” “The prayers, the petitions, they’re ongoing,” Sister Donna says. “This is a place of hope. And this little corner of the world, this Sweetheart has special meaning to so many people.” Throughout the afternoon, Sister Donna and Sister Carla Dolce O.S.U., Director of the Shrine, tell of this miracle of a family that was reunited after
years of estrangement, and this cancer that was healed and that job application that “miraculously came through.” They tell of an elderly nun, Mother St. Benoit, who retired from teaching at Ursuline Academy and after leaving the classroom walked the halls of the massive Uptown building greeting students and chatting with them and their parents. “A parent or a student would tell of what seemed to be a turn of events in their life and of how it came about after praying before the ‘little statue,’” Sister Donna says. “Sister would always say about the statue, ‘She’s such a sweetheart.’ The name stuck.” But that military medal, those silver wings at the foot of the Sweetheart that seem as much a part of the statue as the crowns on the heads of the Blessed Virgin Mary and her son … What about that medal? A faint smile crosses Sister Donna’s face. You know one of her favorite stories is coming. “A young pilot named Albert Richard was assigned to duty in Europe during World War II,” she says. “He came and asked the sisters if he could take the Sweetheart into battle with him. Of course, the sisters had to tell him no, but suggested he take pictures of the Sweetheart into battle. He did that, and when he came back safely from the war he offered the silver wings medal he had received for bravery for placement at her feet. See! Mr. Richard’s medal is there to this day.” A sweetheart story if ever there was one. n See related story, Battle of New Orleans, pg. 72.
myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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LOCAL COLOR / MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS
Green Peace
A real tree for Christmas BY MODINE GUNCH
I
f Santa and his reindeer lived right here, like in the Benny Grunch song, they would be in my mother-in-law Ms. Larda’s house. It looks like North Pole, Chalmette. She is Mrs. Santy. She’s got elves that dance; Rudolph with a LED nose; 31 Christmas sweaters, one for each day of December; a complete set of Christmas-ornament Elvises, chronological, so he gets a little fatter on each one; two Christmas Thomas the Trains; three inflatable lawn art scenes, including a manger set with life-size camels; and a new outfit for her Chihuahua, Chopsley. (He’s Olaf the snowman from Frozen this year.) Every year, she gets a new artificial tree. That don’t mean she throws away the old tree. She just adds it to the collection. She has an aluminum tree with blue spotlights, a black-and-gold tree that turns on its stand and plays “We Are the Champions,” a tree with a Santa hat and an electric eyeball that goes “Ho! Ho! Ho!” when you walk past; a K&B purple tree; and a pink-and-black tree dedicated to Elvis. And that’s just to start. To make it smell like Christmas, she always opens a fresh bottle of
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pine-scented Air-Wick on Christmas Eve. Well, would you believe, my little granddaughter Lollipop went over there, looked at all the Christmas stuff and asked Ms. Larda, “Where’s your tree?” Lollipop lives out in the county, near Folsom, and her mama and daddy take her to one of them tree farms and cut down a tree. So that’s her idea of a Christmas tree. No spangles, no strobe lights, no spinning. Just plain green. Can you believe it? Well, Ms. Larda can’t disappoint the child. She gets the address of this tree farm, and she and me drive up there. But nobody is around. There is just a shed with a saw, a measuring stick and a money box with “$5 per foot, Happy Holidays” on it. But there ain’t nothing about credit cards and between us we got $23.42 cash – and $3 has to pay our way back across the Causeway bridge. So we get a $20 four-foot tree. I lay flat on the ground and saw it down and Ms. Larda ties it to the roof of my VW bug with a bungee cord. We are barely on the road when the bungee cord snaps loose. The tree shoots off the car like an arrow, and I got to screech to a stop and drag the tree off the road. This time I open the sunroof and we each grab the tree with one hand and drive like that. To cheer things up, Ms. Larda turns the radio on and we start singing about snowflakes flaking and jingle bells jingling. Then rain starts raining. Pretty soon it drips right through the tree and down our arms and into our armpits. With her free hand Ms. Larda reaches in her bag and pulls out her fold-up umbrella. She pushes it out through the sunroof, through the tree branches, presses a button on the handle and Foop! it opens. You would think it would fly away, but Ms. Larda hangs on tight. The whole car will fly off the Causeway and over the lake before she turns loose of either the tree or the umbrella. People pass us with their eyes bugging out. Ms. Larda says, “Just act normal, Modine.” We stare ahead calmly, arms up, like we always drive like this. Well, when we finally pull up in front the house, believe it or not the umbrella is fine. Unfortunately, every needle has blown off the tree. It is bald as Rudolph’s antler. I hope Lollipop watched A Charlie Brown Christmas, because that’s the kind of tree we got here. But on Christmas Eve, when we all troop into Ms. Larda’s living room, there’s a gorgeous real tree, with popcorn strings and everything. Ms. Larda is smiling, but through clenched teeth. I sidle up and ask where this new tree came from. “It’s the same tree,” she snaps. “All it needed was a little love, like Charlie Brown said?” I whisper. “Love, schmove. It needed leftover branches stole from the tree lot, green duct tape to stick them on, popcorn strung on fishing wire to prop them up and scratches all over my arms, “ she says. Then we notice Lollipop. Her face is glowing. Ms. Larda beams. It was love. n LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION
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LOCAL COLOR / JOIE D’EVE
The Scariest Thing What lurks in the hallway! BY EVE CRAWFORD PEYTON
W
hile Ruby continues to scare herself silly with stories of ghosts, zombies and witches – clearly just for the sheer thrill of it – Georgia is struggling with a very real, very deep fear. It is obvious that she’s actually troubled by it, experiencing genuine anxiety. And of course, as her mother, I need to be there to soothe her, to let her know that I understand her fear and that I’ll protect her at all costs. The problem is that I find her fear both inconvenient and also kind of hilarious. Georgia is terrified of the Roomba. This is a problem because I freaking love the Roomba. I like to outsource as many of my housecleaning jobs to ma-
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chines as possible, and Georgia is standing (and shaking with terror) between me and my goal of never having to sweep up stepped-on cheddar Goldfish ever again. I bought the Roomba as a birthday present to myself more than a year ago, and I think I have successfully run it four times – one of which was last week when we had company coming over, so I paid Ruby $2 to watch Georgia in her room with the door shut so she wouldn’t know that Roomba was running. Even when Roomba is just sitting quietly on his base like a good robot vacuum, Georgia can’t handle it. “The Roooooooomba,” she screams, pointing at it and backing away. “The Roomba’s gonna get me.” “The Roomba is not going to get you,” I tell her patiently, again and again. “The Roomba is OK. The Roomba is our friend.” She doesn’t believe it. About six months ago, she started trying to give everyone pep talks. “That’s Roomba, Gigi,” she told my mom. “It’s not going to hurt you.” “That’s right, Georgie!” I said, thinking maybe we were turning a corner. “That’s right, Mama!” she responded. “Roomba’s not going to hurt you.” “Georgia, is Roomba going to hurt you?” my mom prompted gently. “Yes,” Georgia said solemnly, nodding her head. So we finally just packed Roomba away, and I didn’t rediscover it until two weeks ago, when I was unpacking the very last of the boxes from our
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move in August. I thought that it was at least possible that Georgia had outgrown her fear, and so I plugged Roomba in again, just to charge. When she saw it, she immediately fled to her toy kitchen, wedged herself between it and the wall, and refused to come out until I had hidden the Roomba under a blanket. Last night, as she was drifting off to sleep, she said, “Mama, you going to sleep, too?” “Yes, baby,” I said. “As soon as you go to sleep, I will go to sleep.” “Roomba going to sleep?” she asked. “Yes, Roomba is asleep, too.” “No,” she said. “Roomba will wake up. Roomba will wake up and beat you!” She began to hit me with her tiny fists. “Like that,” she said insistently. “Roomba will beat you like that!” That was one of the creepiest things I’d ever heard, but I stayed calm. “Oh, no, honey. Roomba is not a person. Roomba will not beat anyone. Roomba is a friendly vacuum.” “Roomba is a friendly vacuum?” she said. “Nooooooo. No, not a friendly vacuum.” “Do you want Roomba to go away?” I asked her, and she nodded emphatically. So now Roomba is packed away again, and my floors are covered in crushed-up cheddar Goldfish. But at least my baby feels safe. By the time I can bring Roomba out of hiding, my floors will probably not even need to be cleaned quite as frequently because I won’t have a toddler running around making messes. And even though that sort of sounds like paradise, I know in my heart that I’ll miss it. n
Excerpted from Eve Crawford Peyton’s blog, Joie d’Eve, which appears each Friday on MyNewOrleans.com.
jane sanders ILLUSTRATION
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LOCAL COLOR / Chronicles June Aiken and Allison Raynor
Keyed Up
The Cadenza Club stays in tune BY CAROLYN KOLB
“I
love to play, and this gives me an excuse to practice!” Allison Raynor’s day job is at Keil’s Antiques, but in her time off she can be found at the piano. She was explaining her fondness for a unique New Orleans music club, the Cadenzas. For over 40 years, Cadenzas’ meetings have been devoted to musical performances – by the members themselves. At its beginning, the group’s name was suggested by Helene Godchaux, a music lover but not a member herself. In music, a “cadenza” is a “virtuoso solo passage” – or as longtime member June Aiken explains, “A ‘cadenza’ is a show-off!” Meetings are held in members’ homes, and one of the usual requirements is for two pianos in the room. According to Aiken, music clubs for two-piano playing can be found throughout the country. As a young wife she belonged to one in Geneva, New York, and had to be invited to tea by a member to be privately observed before being invited to join. Rachelen Lien, another Cadenza member, recalls that she was
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invited to play at a meeting and then found that had been her audition when she was invited into membership. As Raynor says, “When I first came to a meeting, long before Katrina, it seemed that there were these older women – but they were dancing at the piano!” Raynor and Aiken may differ in years of experience, but they’re regular piano partners. “I love playing with June – she’s an extremely accomplished musician, but she chooses to have fun. She’ll say ‘Let’s play something we both like!’” The Cadenzas began in 1972, created by faculty wives at Tulane University. Soon they were part of the Women’s Committee of the New Orleans Symphony, and they recruited new musicians to their ranks. As a letter of invitation to membership notes: “Admit it, you’re a closet pianist. You never meant to get hooked but you ended up with the piano when your parents moved to an apartment and there in the bench was all your old sheet music …” Cadenza members can even advise each other on instruments; member Mary Lee Carver credits member Rachelen Lien with helping her find a new piano with just the right sound. But, members aren’t always pianists. From the beginning, other instruments and singers were welcomed to the club. This is true today, with the major change being that there are now male members. And, members of the Greater New Orleans Music Club are included in meetings. In 2014, a meeting program featured Sheila McDermott singing, accompanied by
Donna Settoon at the piano; Elissa Bluth with a piano solo; and Susan Hanemann playing the flute, accompanied by Ryan Celestin at the piano. The joy of playing with others, and for an audience of musicians, prompted Mary Robert Perkins, pianist and her husband Robert, proficient on both piano and organ, to organize events at the own home. “It’s very informal,” says Mary Perkins. “My husband and I started playing four hands, and then we thought ‘Why don’t we get some of our friends together?’” “We decide when the afternoon is going to be, and we invite people to come and play with us.” The program will vary from classical music to jazz. Bob’s son Steve “Spike” Perkins will play his upright bass or his electric bass and perhaps sing. Drums, saxophone, violin and viola have all been in the mix from time to time. “We don’t have a big house, but it opens out into the garden. We might have the piano music inside, then we move out to the porch and go into the garden.” On the two inside pianos will be found, besides the Perkins, Cadenzas member Mary Ella Carter. One two-piano piece this year is properly festive: “Champagne Toccata” by William Gillock. After their musical afternoon, the Perkinses and their fellow performers relax. “We have some wine and hors d’oeuvres and enjoy!” Cadenzas member Allison Raynor explains: What makes playing for fellow musicians so special? “Everybody is doing it because of love – and there’s a lot of forgiveness!” n Craig Mulcahy photograph
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LOCAL COLOR / home
Homecoming Tom and Gayle Benson’s touch of gold BY BONNIE WARREN / PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GERBER
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ocated on a private street just off St. Charles Avenue, this stately home is immediately set apart from the other grand houses on the broad boulevard by its black canvas drapes, embossed at the top with a gold fleur-de-lis, which hang over the entrance to the front porch. Welcome to the home of Gayle and Tom Benson. Step inside and you’ll immediately realize there is indeed a connection between the homeowners and the National Football League’s New Orleans Saints team. Yes, Tom is the proud owner of the New Orleans Saints and the National Basketball Associations’ Pelicans, and as you may suspect, the home has a large collection of Saints memorabilia, including many items the couple collected from the Saints prize-winning Super Bowl XLIV win in 2010. Gayle, a talented interior designer, hasn’t let the sports treasures get in the way of
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creating an elegant home that does double duty, whether used to informally entertain a large group of casually dressed guests or a few at select visitors decked out in their finest for an elegant sit-down dinner at a table with appointments fit for a king and queen. “We especially enjoy our home during the Christmas, when our goal is to always keep true to meaning of the
Facing page: Gayle and Tom Benson live in a stately home on a gated street just off St. Charles Avenue. Left: The grand dining room features a broad table that seats 16. Top, right: Gayle Benson. Bottom, right: A Christmas tree decorated in candy canes fits neatly into the corner of the dining room.
season,” she says. Both Gayle and Tom are devout Catholics. “The Nativity scene in our front yard welcomes you in the true spirit of Christmas.” The formal area of the home includes the parlor, library and dining room, with a broad foyer in the center of the floor plan. Leaded glass double doors, topped by a matching transom, adds warm natural light to the space, while the windows in the parlor are dressed in fine silk and softly draped to give a warm glow to the room. It is here in the parlor that your eyes take in the unique Christmas-related treasures, such as a goldleaf display stand atop an antique round table filled with a collection of sentimental sterling silver ornaments. Another antique round table on the other side of the damask-covered sofa features an eclectic collection that includes a Royal Dalton statue of a pregnant Blessed Mother Mary, a gift from Archbishop Gregory Aymond. Many of the decorations have special meaning because they’re gifts from friends. “I believe good design should always incorporate things with special sentimental meaning side by side with fine furnishings and accessories,” Gayle says.
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Of special interest in the parlor is the large portrait of Gayle by Garland Robinette, their good friend, artist and radio host, which has a place of honor over the marble fireplace. The picture-perfect dining room comfortably seats 16 guests at the broad, antique table. Gayle had the walls and ceiling given a special bronze finish to add to the feeling of elegance. Here, like in every room on the first level of the Benson’s home, there’s a Christmas tree. “We create an individual Christmas tree for each of our five grandchildren and two great nieces, and all of the gifts under that tree are for one person,” she says. Once you step into the back cozy rooms of the house, your eyes will feast on the sports memorabilia of all descriptions. “This is where we both share the ups and downs of the Saints and Pelicans. Most of all, our home is a place of refuge and comfort and to enjoy special times such as the Christmas season.” The above article is excerpted from New Orleans Homes at Christmas by Bonnie Warren with photos by Cheryl Gerber, recently published by Pelican Publishing Company. n
Top left: Folding doors open into the kitchen that features a large chandelier over the island. Bottom, left: A portrait of Tom hangs over the fireplace, while the Christmas angel shares the table with a painting of the Saints fleur-de-lis. Bottom, right: The Royal Dalton figurine of a pregnant Blessed Mother Mary, a gift from Archbishop Gregory Aymond, shares the top of the round table with a trio of singing nuns, a rosary and a porcelain statue of a dancing couple. Facing page: Top, left: The tall Christmas tree overlooks the rear patio and garden. Bottom, left: Baby Jesus and Blessed Mother Mary are depicted in an ornament affixed to the bottom of the display stand. Top, right: A gold charger holds the fine china plate and Christmas napkin held in a sterling silver napkin ring. Bottom, right: A unique tree-shaped gold-leaf stand atop a damask-covered antique table displays the couple’s collection of sterling silver Christmas ornaments.
ADVERTISING SECTION
HOME OWNERS: Dr. Ron and Susan Aslett
INTERIOR DESIGNER: Susie Sullivan
SingerKitchens.com 231 N. Carrollton Ave. 504.486.0067 1818 Manhattan Blvd. 504.297.1644
4704 Veterans Blvd. 504.885.9880 1581 N. Hwy 190 985.893.8979
ADVERTISING SECTION
THE INTERIOR DESIGNER’S SECRET INGREDIENT Interior designer Susie Sullivan says she enjoys working with Singer Kitchens because the multitude of cabinetry colors and options they offer allows her to truly customize individual pieces to fit her clients’ style and needs. Susie also appreciates the functionality of the products and how they help improve her clients’ lifestyles. A great example of Susie’s use of Singer cabinetry can be seen in the results of the recently completed kitchen, bathroom, home office and closet renovations at the Metairie home of Dr. Ron & Susan Aslett. In the Aslett’s kitchen, Susie first selected the island countertop made of Mascarello granite. She then chose from Singer’s many cabinet finish choices to pull out the vibrant hues of the granite. Since Mrs. Aslett is a frequent baker, Susie added a retractable mixer shelf to the island which allows Mrs. Aslett easy access to her Kitchenaid mixer. In the master bathroom suite, Susie created visual interest by increasing the depth of the center vanity cabinet and then designing a wall cabinet to sit on the Calcutta Gold marble top. The Asletts also appreciated the additional storage capacity created by the three deep drawers under their vanity sinks. Susie made the island the focal point of the new master closet, offering visual impact while also providing a dual dressing area - his & her storage drawers - along with a countertop that can be used as dressing workspace. All of the closet shelves are adjustable and can be easily moved to accommodate various sizes and shapes and to meet changing storage needs. For the Aslett’s home office, Susie made use of Singer’s furniture effect modifications to design desks that look custom built. Once again, the smart design creates a lovely space while meeting the Aslett’s practical needs. In the end, the Asletts appreciated how Susie honed in on their style and with the help of Singer Kitchens used it to create beautiful, functional and smoothly flowing spaces that were all uniquely theirs. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEFFERY JOHNSTON
B est o f D i ni ng Choice p icks from the re staur ant scene photographed by Marianna Massey
We end the year as we have for the past several years, looking at the topic that, surveys show, concerns our readers the most: Dining. In New Orleans the restaurant scene has been dizzying with new places, new faces, adventurous dishes and occasional dropouts. Our choices are all based on merit and made by a committee consisting of our food writers and editorial staff. In some categories the choice was obvious; in others the pick could have gone in several directions. In all cases the city is enriched by what is available. Should auld acquaintances be forgotten – indeed! Our “Honor Roll” and “Under the Radar” picks honor places that have been around and need to be remembered, Even what’s old is sometimes new: Tujaque’s went through a makeover and Brennan’s, under new management but within the same extended family, is back. Among the very newest, they will not be that way for long because other ventures are preparing to open in the new year. The very “Best of Dining” is the vitality of the local restaurant scene.
I
n the former Ditcharo’s space on Carondelet Street, Justin Devillier’s latest project, Balise, is nearing completion. It takes its name from La Balise, a pioneering French settlement that guarded the mouth of the Mississippi River in the rough and tumble early days of European settlement. And like La Balise, Devillier is an entrepreneur who has staked a claim in a difficult business. But despite his relative youth – he’s 33 – Devillier is already an industry veteran. He and his wife Mia own a majority interest in La Petite Grocery, the Magazine Street restaurant where he has honed his skills over the past 10 years and which regularly ends up on short lists of New Orleans best restaurants. His is an interesting case – a young guy in an era of media that glamorizes chefs but also one who legitimately rose through the ranks rather than culinary school. His first kitchen job was a decidedly unglamorous pantry position at a small Italian restaurant in Dana Point, California, where he grew up. “I did all the stuff no one else wanted to do. But I sought the job out because I was interested in cooking. It really opened my
eyes to what a career in kitchens is really like. I think with the initial interest comes this thought of glamour. But you realize pretty quickly that is not how it is.” Fast-forward a few years and Devillier was on the fence regarding culinary school, unsure of whether that was the route to take. He reached out to a contact at the American Culinary Federation who gave him some practical advice: get out there, put your head down and work in kitchens for chefs that you admire. You are going to learn all the things you would learn in culinary school and probably faster. And you’ll get paid to do it rather than paying for it. “It was good advice and looking back I don’t have any regrets,” Devillier says. What followed next was a series of gigs at some highly respected restaurants with some top-notch chefs. He had old French family roots in New Orleans as well as a job connection through Ralph Brennan’s restaurant group, and he moved here in 2003. He worked at Bacco, Stella! and also with Anne Kearny at Peristyle. In ’04 he joined the team at La Petite, and later helped to reopen it fol-
c h ef of the y e ar
Justin Devillier
lowing Hurricane Katrina. When Anton Schulte, the executive chef at the time, left La Petite in ’07 to open Bistro Daisy, Devillier was offered the top job. “I took it even though I didn’t really know what I was doing,” he says. He didn’t just work in the kitchen, he worked with accountants and in all other aspects of management. “They allowed me to make mistakes that I learned from; it was a crash course in business management,” he recalls. He was all of 26 at the time. The experience fast-tracked both Devillier and his wife, setting the stage for their next endeavor. When Balise opens its doors in early 2015, it will plate up recipes that reconsider some of New Orleans’ most classic dishes. The food will skew a bit more masculine than the dishes at La Petite Grocery, with the environs providing more of a tavern-style feel. It won’t be turtle soup and shrimp remoulade, but Devillier will approach his recipes through an antiquarian lens. For Balise, Devillier mined out-of-print and reissued cookbooks for ideas. “As opposed to Cajun, which was hyper-local before that was even a thing, Creole was focused on bringing in luxurious ingredients from outside the region,” Devillier notes. “I’d come across 19th century recipes for things like salmon, which isn’t exactly from around here. That will be part of the approach – to source some luxurious items but approach them in a traditional manner.” It has been a busy year for Devillier. He was a nominee for the 2014 James Beard Award Best Chef South for the third year in a row. It also saw him celebrate the 10-year anniversary of La Petite Grocery. A stint on “Top Chef: New Orleans” not too long back thrust him into the national
Climbing the Ladder; Adding Another Rung
limelight. In addition, he and Mia are raising their two young daughters. So with all that he has going on right now, how is La Petite? A recent visit there demonstrated a restaurant in full stride. Smooth front of house operation and attentive service were noteworthy, especially considering that the special board ran about a third the length of the printed menu. Silky crab and cheese beignets yielded to a gentle bite, scented with scallions and a garlicky malt vinegar aioli. The first bite of braised short ribs tricked expectations when the seasonings yielded a flavor profile that was more Moroccan than French. The meal ended on Pastry Chef Bronwen Wyatt’s honey ice cream garnished with pumpkin seeds and Chantilly cream. In short, I can’t wait to get back to La Petite, but I also can’t wait for Balise. - Jay Forman Balise (opening in 2015), 640 Carondelet St. La Petite Grocery, 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com
r e s tau r a n t of the year
MoPho
New Directions in Vietnamese Cuisine
V
ietnamese cuisine is well represented in New Orleans, due largely to the population of immigrants from the former French colony that settled here in the 1970s and thereafter. The food traditions they brought with them spread slowly but steadily; these days it’s as easy to order a bowl of pho as a plate of red beans. Chef Michael Gulotta garnered attention with a stint as executive chef at August, where he regularly worked Asian flavors into the ambitious, inventive menu at chef John Besh’s flagship restaurant. When he announced he was going to open a casual Vietnamese restaurant in Mid-City, eyebrows were raised. But this isn’t fusion cooking; this isn’t “homage;” this is an extremely talented chef cooking the food he loves and doing it justice. The menu at MoPho has the standards you’ll find at all local Vietnamese restaurants – the rice noodle soup called pho; bun, the chilled noodle salad dish and banh mi, or as we like to call them, Vietnamese poor boys – and the restaurant does those standards proud. The broth in the pho is as good as you’ll find, and in addition to the flank, tendon and meatball you’d expect you can get oxtail, pork shoulder or belly and a red chile-braised tripe that may just convert you to the ingredient if you’re on the fence.
You can also get cocks comb, headcheese or a number of vegetarian options such as roasted tofu, mushrooms and grilled greens. Toppings on the bun are equally inventive; the Shakin’ bourbon beef cheeks are a play on bo luc lac or “shaking beef,” which gets its name from the method of cooking the beef – the tossing and flipping inherent to stir frying – with a dash of sweetness from bourbon that works perfectly in the dish. MoPho is also vegetarian-friendly and the slow roasted and crispy fried eggplant with tofu is just one example; you can get vegetarian pho and a banh mi with cast iron roast tofu with black bean mayonnaise. Those banh mi are another example of how MoPho takes things in an inventive direction: you can find the sandwiches stuffed with fried shrimp and with Chisesi ham, roast duck with a banana barbecue sauce and fried P&J oysters with blue cheese, all of which are dressed with house-made mayonnaise, pickled vegetables and chicken liver paté a spreadable, spicy pork pâté. They are not authentic, but they’re delicious, and that’s what counts. Gulotta and his sous chefs Blake Aguillard and Will Smith also have a rotating series of specials that as I write include a pan-roasted sheepshead with a cushaw squash purée, Satsuma, black cardamom and mizuna greens, and a cast-iron roast flank steak with red bliss potato home fries and a roasted pear and fall squash salad. The only “special” that seems to stay on the menu for more than a month or three is the pepper jelly braised clams with lamb lardo, mint crispy shallot and annatto (also known as achiote) beignets. It is a wonderful dish that’s reminiscent of a Portuguese preparation of clams with sausage, but entirely of the milieu in which Gulotta is working at MoPho.
It isn’t my favorite dish at the restaurant (that’s the sweet-sourspicy-salty Thai-inspired som tam salad, which uses seasonal ingredients as well as any dish at any restaurant I’ve ever visited), but it’s absolutely one of the best clam dishes in town. Speaking of which, you can’t come to MoPho without trying two appetizers: the crispy chicken wings with lemongrass and ginger and the fried oysters with mayo, radish and pickled blue cheese. The wings are addictive, as wings tend to be, but here they’ve got a sweet heat that sticks to your fingers and makes the old KFC adage true. The oysters are from P&J, and they’re fried perfectly; blue cheese isn’t exactly a Vietnamese ingredient, but there’s a lot of umami in it and it works so well with the rest of the menu that you’d think it was. Drinks are an important part of the experience at MoPho;
Shawna Donahue is in charge of the bar program and proudly calls herself a bartender rather than a mixologist. Along with consultant Mary Dixie, she and Jeff Gulotta have come up with a very interesting take on bubble teas. At MoPho they serve “Boba Teas of Extraordinary Magnitude,” which translates to bubble teas with a spike. The first one they came up with was the old fashioned, which Gulotta told me took a bit of tinkering before it was ready; the initial plan to soak the boba in alcohol just made them hard, but these days they’ve gotten it down, and in addition to the craft cocktails they put out at the restaurant the bubble tea cocktails are a hit. – Robert Peyton MoPho, 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com
Innovative Southern Cuisina
Under the Radar
C a r ro l lto n Ma r ke t
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hen Carrollton Market opened in March it did so with little fanfare, slipping into the space formerly occupied by One Restaurant and Lounge. It wasn’t entirely obvious at first that beyond its plate-glass windows awaited a completely new restaurant. The first impression might be the dining room and bar area following its overhaul by Curtis Herring, which sets a distinctively tasteful tone. Yet the real difference is in the kitchen, where chef and owner Jason Goodenough makes his mark with his ingredient-driven approach to southern cuisine. Chef Goodenough alternately describes his style as “modern southern” or “contemporary New Orleans” but these labels don’t really pin it down. A native of New York, Goodenough started cooking while attending Millsaps College in Jackson, Mississippi. He switched gears from finance to cooking and went on to attend the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After finishing there he spent a few years in Philadelphia while his wife finished medical school. They later moved to New Orleans, where Goodenough soaked up experience during his year spent working at Emeril’s NOLA. Now in charge of his own restaurant, Goodenough offers a style that’s more refined and in some ways more removed from any entrenched New Orleans style. The result is a more thoughtful, considerate approach that benefits from his fresh perspective.
“I just use the techniques that I’ve learned elsewhere and apply them to what I can source here,” he says. “My job gets a little easier when I get to work with such great ingredients as they have here in New Orleans.” Goodenough rewrote his menu for winter, keeping in line with his ingredient-driven approach. Dishes such as his chicken and dumplings rolled off to make room for braised oxtail with gnocchi. With a rich demi-glace made from red wine and veal stock, it’s finished with raisins and pine nuts yielding a complex profile that’s sweet, salty and a touch acidic. “I’ve been waiting for the cool weather to put that one on,” Goodenough says. “It’s the first dish I came up with in my first executive chef job and I’m still really proud of it.” Other wintery dishes include a cassoulet with a New Orleans-twist, featuring red beans in lieu of the traditional white, distinctively smoky Allan Benton bacon, pork belly, duck confit, and andouille sausage. “I’m just trying to do something a little different. I mean, I’m not from here, I didn’t want to come here and do my own barbecue shrimp because I’d just be imitating it and not really doing it as well as the locals,” Goodenough says. “I’m just looking to bring something new, maybe a little more modern conceptually.” With dishes like the cassoulet, the more he brings the happier we will all be. - JF
Carrollton Market, 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket.com
Southeast Asian Restaurant o f the Year M i l kf i s h
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hen Cristina Quackenbush first moved to New Orleans, she found a lot to love. One thing she could not find, however, was Filipino food. Frustrated at first, soon thereafter she saw an opportunity. “I realized I’d stumbled onto a niche market,” she recalls. At the time she was working for Adolfo Garcia at Rio Mar. She began bringing in dishes for him to taste and he was hooked. Garcia offered his restaurants as a proving ground for a pop-up concept, which was soon generating buzz. A subsequent Kickstarter campaign didn’t meet its goal, but did connect her with an investor. Milkfish opened its
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here are several outstanding pizzerias in town these days, but not many can compare to Pizza Domenica, which chefs John Besh and Alon Shaya opened in April of this year as an offshoot of their Italian restaurant in the Roosevelt Hotel. Pizza is a sideline at Domenica, but it’s the star at their Magazine Street location. This is a truly Italian-style pizza, cooked in a wood-burning oven with a thin, flavorful crust and scant toppings compared to chain-restaurant pies. What the chains offer in volume, though, Pizza Domenica more than makes up for in quality. You could eat the meats – prosciutto, salami, mortadelPizza Domenica, 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com
doors in April, and New Orleans gained its first authentic Filipino restaurant. So, now, many people may ask, what exactly is Filipino cuisine? “It is like unintentional fusion,” Quackenbush explains. The Philippines reflect the flavors of the nations around it, deepened by colonial influence. Chinese and Spanish are the predominate signatures and bold flavors reign. Sour notes come from vinegar, tamarind and calamansi. First timers might enjoy the chicken adobo, but more adventurous eaters stand to benefit the most, with offerings such dinuguan, a savory blood stew. Milkfish (named after the Philippine national fish) also offers an array of vegetarian fare; the unusual seasonings and condiments give meatless options a lot of complexity. And for the truly brave, ask to take the “Balut Challenge.” Bragging rights will be yours. – JF
Milkfish, 125 N. Carrollton Ave., 267-4199, MilkfishNola.com
la and smoked pork, to name a few – on their own, and that’s true of the cheeses as well. There are a dozen or so options available, along with a focused selection of antipasti, appetizers and salads. Chef de cuisine Michael Wilson runs the show on a day-to-day basis, and general manager Stephen Jeffcoat is responsible for the spectacular bar program, including a varied selection of craft beers on tap and in bottles. – RP
p izz a Restaurant of the year
P izz a D o m e n i c a
Restaurateur of the Year
D a nny M il l a n
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o one is born with the knowledge. Sometimes people are born with the connections, benefitting from whom their parents are, but the knowledge can only come with experience, education and desire. Danny Millan certainly has the desire, and he had the support of his parents. His father was a long-time Maitre d’ at the Sazerac Restaurant, coming to New Orleans from a similar stint at the Acapulco Princess Hotel, a true jewel of the Mexican hotel industry. Father pulled a few strings and got a job for his son at the “ain’t-dere-no-more” restaurant as a bus boy. But Millan was thrilled to be near his dad and to work in an industry he had known all his young life. He loved it. When the now also long-gone Restaurant Henri, opened in the then-new Le Meridien hotel, he was honored to be on board as a food runner. Both jobs were over a period of five years, quite a long time for an ambitious young man starting a career. Jimmy Moran saw the fire in this kid from Mexico City and made him a waiter, then manager, then captain at Moran’s Riverside in the French Market. Some customers, higher-ups at Freeport-McMoran thought the lad would do well in their world headquarters’ Executive Dining Room on Poydras Street, which gave rise to a still-fondly-remembered every Thursday gig of Millan preparing a Mexican Fiesta at noon. And that led to Emeril Lagasse tapping Millan for assistance in opening his eponymous restaurant in Universal Studios in Cava, 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034
CAVA CREATOR WORKED HIS WAY UP
Orlando, Florida. Millan was General Manager, but New Orleans always was pulling at him, so he returned. First to Brennan’s on Royal Street as GM, then over to Restaurant August in the same position. He hit another goal when he was involved as an owner and GM at Le Foret on Camp Street, making true friends along the way. The opportunity to own his own place outright came in 2012 with Cava on Harrison Avenue in Lakeview. “I’ve loved that name since I was a little boy. It’s what well-to-do Mexican people call their wine cellars, and I always wanted to have one of those.” At Cava, there are no microwaves, walk-in coolers, or freezers. Millan serves only the freshest local ingredients. If it can’t be created and served fresh, it doesn’t go on the menu. Millan brought together two talented and incredible chefs who understand as he does what local ingredients and local preparations are all about. Since it opened earlier this year, Cava has been packed, with multiple seatings every night. Part of the appeal is the food and the attention to detail by an owner who has assembled a truly professional team. Part of the appeal is the proximity of the affluent Lakeview neighborhood and the rebirth of Harrison Avenue. Most of the appeal is because of a fine man who loves what he was born to do and was willing to pay his dues, learning the trade from the ground up. – Tim McNally
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ther cities may have more “five-star” restaurants than New Orleans, but there’s really nowhere else with such a distinct food culture. New Orleans is not immune to food trends, and we have a lot of excellent new restaurants serving inventive food. But New Orleans wouldn’t be the same without our strong tradition of indigenous restaurants, whether white tablecloth or more casual, neighborhood joints. Those of us who write about food and restaurants in New Orleans found that in the months following the levee failures of August, 2005, we were continually asked about restaurants that had suffered damage and could not reopen immediately. The restaurants about which most people asked were places that offered more than just good food. These spots served as meeting places for regulars and as an island of consistency in a restaurant landscape that seems to change more each year. These are places where you know the servers; where the walls are adorned with family photographs; where you eat things that you can really only get in New Orleans. These are restaurants such as Camellia Grill, Crescent City Steaks, Casamento’s, Antoine’s, Galatoire’s, Dooky Chase and of course, Mandina’s. All of those restaurants were closed for some period of time in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, and some reopened earlier than others. In Mandina’s case it took about a year and a half, but the family buckled down and overcame all obstacles to bring the iconic eatery back. Diners all over the city and beyond are grateful that they did. Mandina’s has been in operation at 3800 Canal St. for over eight decades, and Cindy Mandina, who runs the business now, is the fourth generation of her family to do so. The new place looks a little different than it did in the years pre-Katrina, though not so different that you wouldn’t recognize it. You will definitely recognize the turtle soup au sherry, the crab fingers in wine sauce, the Gulf fish meuniere and daily specials like the bruccialone with shell macaroni that’s available on Thursdays, or the Creole Eggplant you can order on Friday. And you’ll also recognize a lot of the folks dining there, because Mandina’s is a place to which people return over and over. The place was doing good business before the storm, but these days it’s even busier; you should expect a wait during peak hours. Fortunately the bar is still there, and the drinks are still made in the New Orleans fashion – which is to say “strong.” Hit the bar then wait outside under the overhanging roof and chat with your fellow patrons. – RP
Doing All Things Well
Honor Ro l l Mandina’s, 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandiansRestaurant.com
M a n d i n a’ s
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hat happens when two big culinary stars, who have been on national television more than most of us have heard the “Saints Marching In” tune, strike up a friendship and decide to open a new-style Mexican restaurant? New Orleans wins! Johnny Sánchez is the collaborative brain-child, and name mash-up, of John Besh, a revered member of New Orleans’ hospitality community, teaming up with his “Food Network’s Next Iron Chef” competitor in 2007. We know that chef Besh loves his native city. We were not aware of how much chef Aarón Sánchez loves this burg; and he really does. Sánchez first came to the Crescent City when he was 6. It left such an impression that he couldn’t wait to return. Even at that young age, he knew what he wanted and where he wanted to be, so following his family’s passion for food, he came here to work with chef Paul Prudhomme.
Mexican R e s tau r a n t o f the Year Johnny Sánchez Then after meeting Besh, the two, whenever they were together, cooked dishes for each other. That is the core of the menu at Johnny Sánchez. Taste-tested dishes from two culinary stars and set in a town they both love very much. – TM Johnny Sánchez, 930 Poydras St., 304-6615, JohnnySanchezRestaurant.com
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N e i gh borh ood R e s tau r an t of t he Ye ar oak oven
Mugnaini stone deck oven fired exclusively with split oak logs, an onsite garden producing arugula to zucchini depending on the season, blueberry bushes in back and a Satsuma tree laden with winter crop in the front. This is a lot to expect from any restaurant, let alone a repurposed Popeyes in Harahan. But that’s what Adam Superneau and his partners have accomplished with Oak Oven, and for that we voted it the Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year. At Oak Oven, Superneau strikes a balance between the authentic regional Italian fare he learned to cook while attending culinary school in Italy and the comforting New Orleans Creole-style Italian cuisine that he grew up with here. Add to that his Sicilian ancestry, a start-up backed by two childhood friends and formative time spent in some of the best kitchens around town (including Domenica), and you get a recipe for success. The wood-fired pizzas are light on the char, with an especially thin crust and an array of toppings that will satisfy kids and adults alike. The real winners however are his handmade pastas, like the spaghetti with Two Run Farm lamb meatballs, and the seafood specials like smoked drum that slide out of his wood-burning oven. Patio seating and a kid-friendly ambiance are a plus. - JF
Oak Oven, 6625 Jefferson Highway, Harahan, 305-4039, OakOvenRestaurant.com
Ideal Mix: Wine Store With Sicilian Dining
Co n ce p t o f the Year
Marcello’s
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nfortunately, the road that brings restaurants and dishes from Cajun Country to New Orleans isn’t well traveled. Over the years our city has had a couple of Southern Louisiana stars move this way, like Paul Prudhomme and Donald Link, but given the excellent cuisine for which that part of the state and its chefs are properly famous, we haven’t seen all that much around here. That dam, however, may have just opened a bit more, and the French descendants of early settlers from Acadia in Canada could have Italian roots – Sicilian, to be precise – to thank. Marcello’s, a mainstay on the Lafayette dining scene, has come to New Orleans. And according to Gene Todaro, the proprietor, the restaurant’s Crescent City outpost is going gangbusters. In fact, the phrase, “What have we been afraid of about coming to New Orleans?” has crept into more than one conversation. Seems New Orleanians really like their red gravy. But we knew that. Todaro isn’t a complete stranger to the New Orleans market, given that his cousins, all named Todaro, Elio of Elio’s Wine Shop and Felipe’s Mexican Restaurants fame (and recently deceased) and Blaise and Carlos, from the Vieux Carré Wine and Spirits Shop, have all been operating retail and restaurant outlets in New Orleans since the mid-1980s. In fact, Gene was the cousin who opened up the retail wine and spirit store on Chartres Street in the French Quarter in 1986.
What is intriguing about Marcello’s, besides some excellent molto buona Italian menu offerings, is the wine presentation. Keeping in mind that the location on St. Charles Avenue in a budding restaurant row is the former Le Chat Noir Theatre, Todaro has added a bit of drama to beverage selections. All of the wine is displayed in racks more commonly associated with retail stores. “I always want our guests to see what we have. They can pick up the bottles, read the labels, satisfy their own questions and then make a selection or two from a wide range of bottles from all over the world, but with an emphasis on Italy.“ Todaro continues, “In this way, we can offer wines at below the usual restaurant pricing. We don’t need a separate storage area, and the pressure is off the server as to what to suggest. All the bottles of wine are out in the open, ready to be selected by the guest.” Some of the dishes coming from the kitchen are different than the offerings in Lafayette, and sometimes there will be creations in New Orleans that are not being offered in Lafayette. Same is true of the wine. According to Todaro, “the people of New Orleans have a lot of wine knowledge and we have to step up our game to stay up with our customers.” This marriage of fine dining, retail wine sales in a restaurant setting, and buon divertimento, good fun, is working very well in the Warehouse District. – TM
Marcello’s, 715 St. Charles Ave., 581-6333, MarcellosCafe.com
The Future Rising
G iv i n g Back
Café Reconcile
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ociety is a complicated machine. There are many moving parts, often working at differing speeds and directions. Every aspect of society is dependent on all the parts doing what has to be done, for the good of the whole. And sometimes, maybe even often, the synergy and role-playing of a particular part fails. Being left behind is never a good feeling, nor is there an obvious way or the means for some to catch up to where society has moved on. “We cannot as a community afford to leave any of our children behind,” says Glen Armantrout, chief executive officer of Café Reconcile, founded in 1996 on the premise that New Orleans must address the endemic problems of generational poverty, violence and childhood neglect. The late and universally beloved Father Harry Tompson S.J., whose footprints on New Orleans still are deep and lasting, conceived of this youth-help program based on one the city’s greatest assets: the hospitality community. “What Harry (as everyone called him) saw was a terrible urban situation that needed to be addressed in a meaningful, not just on the surface, fashion,” Armantrout adds. Because the negatives were so widespread and long in developing, Café Reconcile was challenged to address a lot of core issues simultaneously and with equal amounts of energy. Solutions had to make sense to supporters, but mostly had to appeal to the at-risk young people and their families. There is indeed a café, and it’s doing very well. Serving mainly lunch, more than 1,000 young people, ages 16 to 22, have been
trained for careers in food service, which means restaurants, catering and special events companies. Graduates of Café Reconcile have gone on to employment in every area of the New Orleans hospitality community. Café Reconcile is, at its heart, an organization that doesn’t just teach a trade, but also how to get along in life. Its curriculum is centered on teaching social interaction; improving reading comprehension skills and writing; helping the participants understand the dynamics of the job market; the importance of choosing the right companions; making productive use of free time; and instilling the confidence that there’s a place for every human being within society. Café Reconcile also works to remove the stigma that has been attached to the food service industry by demonstrating New Orleans’ now-critical need for supervisors, managers, skilled workers and higher management in a hospitality industry-driven community. Forty percent of students/participants are high school graduates who still need some extra attention to assimilate. The 12-week Reconcile program awards them with a diploma, and there’s an ongoing alumni curriculum that further adds to their on-the-job experience, as well as a continuing mentoring program. When you lunch at Café Reconcile, surrounded by the smiling, eager, young faces of your neighbors who are getting their act together, the food and the future will taste absolutely fantastic. That is a Café Reconcile promise. – TM
Café Reconcile, 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile.org
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ow does one become a Keeper of the Flame, a Creator of the Flame and a Thrower of the Flame? You will have to ask Miss Charming. There are lives that start out in one direction and then go off in a completely different one. New Orleans is full of those stories, but likely none in a more contradirectional than Cheryl Charming (which is her given name) whose parents moved her as a young girl from Los Angeles to Little Rock, Arkansas to save her from the evils of demon rum and wild boys. Ironically enough, the first bottle of alcohol she ever saw was when a preacher’s daughter, during a church trip, asked her for a favor: hide a bottle of Smirnoff Vodka from preacher Daddy and Mom. Charming’s mother discovered the bottle and there was a lot of explaining to do. Charming, while working as a waitress in a pizza restaurant, was quite taken with the role of bartender and kept notes of her customers’ stories, along with tricks and trivia. Those notes filed away in shoe boxes became the basis for her first book, Miss Charming’s Book of Bar Amusements, published by Random House. Thirteen books have followed, including the Everything series: The Bartender’s Book (now in its third printing), Family Guide to Walt Disney World Resort and the Cocktail Parties and Drinks Book: The Ultimate Guide to Creating Colorful Concoctions, Fabulous Finger Foods and the Perfect Setting. After enjoying a gig on a Disney Cruise Ship, Charming joined the training team at Orlando’s Walt Disney World and taught a new employee training course, Quest for the Best, mostly directed at guest-contact personnel at the resorts’ Pleasure Island area. It stood to reason that such a personality, eventually, would inevitably end up in New Orleans’ French Quarter. It was a logical outcome to the story, so far. Charming found residence in the Quarter, revamped the bar program at The Bombay Club, and now is the Manager of Bourbon O, the very hip and haunted watering hole in the Bourbon Orleans Hotel. Her preparations of New Orleans’ classic cocktails are exceeded only by her creativity to tie together the location and the history of that property. Try the Touchdown Jesus Bloody Mary. Every month she writes, edits, art directs and publishes a newsletter that explains to Bourbon O bar patrons the current offerings of drinks, the new creations, the history of the drinks and stories about the location, all dotted with bits of trivia and fun diversions. She is the consummate hostess, a master storyteller, a tour guide of both drinks and location and a terrific mixologist. Nice combination.
– TM
Bourbon O Bar, 730 Bourbon St., 571-4685, BourbonO.com
M i xo lo g i s t o f the Year
Cheryl Charming
Cocktails and Bar Tales
Courtesy of the Library of Congress
having a
Prayer Upon further review – how the battle was won B y G e o rg e G u rt n e r
The Battle of New Orleans. It may go down in history as one of the biggest upsets of all time. Historians are still debating that one. What we do know for certain is that this squabble, which was settled on the boggy turf of Chalmette on Jan. 8, 1815, was completely unnecessary since a treaty between the combatants – England and the toddler United States of America – had been signed two weeks earlier, declaring a cessation to the long-running conflict between the two countries. The treaty simply hadn’t been ratified and the mail was a bit slow coming down the pike. Other side effects of the battle included the eventual penning of what may be the worst rockabilly song of all time: “In 1814 we took a little trip / Along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip / We took a little bacon and we took a little beans / And we caught the bloody British at the town of New Orleans …” This ditty won a 1960 Grammy Award for Best Country and Western Recording. The battle also enticed legendary Hollywood producer, Cecile B. DeMille in 1938 to turn out The Buccaneer, a filmography of the Battle of New Orleans, and reprise that very same film in the late-’50s starring the perpetually scowling Charlton Heston as Andrew Jackson and Yul Brynner, wearing what may have been the worst hairpiece of all time, as the pirate and Jackson ally Jean Lafitte. It is hard to believe that DeMille eventually turned to his son-in-law Anthony Quinn to direct the film, or that The Buccaneer was originally intended to be a musical. But two centuries after the real battle, long after Chalmette Battlefield Monument key chains have fallen out of vogue, perspective serves to bring more clearly into focus the true “blood and guts” stories of those men and women involved and how their involvement had trickled down through the centuries. “If you look back on it,” says history buff Ramon Alfaro, “you just knew the Americans would win. It had to happen as
it did. And that battle, that victory, put the exclamation point on the words, ‘America is here to stay!’” The Ursuline nuns, who had arrived in New Orleans nearly a century before the battle, take pride in the part they played in the battle and always insert the word “miraculous” in any talk of victory. “The Ursuline sisters and many of the faithful from throughout the French Quarter gathered at the chapel (the Ursuline convent’s chapel on Chartres Street) and prayed throughout the night,” says Sister Carla Dolce O.S.U., herself a native of New Orleans, and whose brother, Carl, once served as superintendent of public education, “Every person in the chapel spent the night praying before the statue of Our Lady of Prompt Succor. They prayed for the Virgin Mary’s intercession.” The next morning Rev. William Dubourg, the vicar general who would later be named bishop of New Orleans, offered Mass at the chapel on an altar where the statue of Our Lady of Prompt Succor had been placed. As the Mass got underway, Mother Ste. Marie Olivier deVezin made a vow that, “If Jackson’s troops were victorious and the city of New Orleans were saved, a Mass of Thanksgiving would be celebrated by the bishop of New Orleans on this (Jan. 8) date every year,” says Sister Carla. “Shortly after that vow was made, a man ran into the church to announce that the British troops were defeated. ‘Victory is ours!’ he said, and for the past 199 years we have kept that promise.” This Jan. 8, 2015, Sister Carla says, Archbishop Gregory Aymond will celebrate the 200th Mass of Thanksgiving. It will be held at the National Shrine of Our Lady of Prompt Succor at State Street and South Claiborne Avenue at 4 p.m. A few days after his improbable victory, General Jackson, who became a national hero and rode his military exploits into the White House, arrived at the little chapel in the French Quarter to personally thank the Ursuline nuns for their prayers and support.
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“By the blessing of heaven,” Jackson said, “directing the valor of the troops under my command, one of the most brilliant victories in the annals of war was obtained.” “Amen,” says Sister Carla. Several miles down the road in Chalmette across Judge Perez Drive, where the battle was actually fought, battle buffs and historians are forever digging into the lore and facts surrounding their favorite skirmish. Numbers are tossed about: Did the British have 7,000 troops or 12,000? Did Jackson face them with 2,000 troops or 5,000? Did the battle last 15 minutes or three hours? Perhaps Dr. Emilie “Lee” Gagnet Leumas, archivist for the Archdiocese of New Orleans says it best: “With a minimal amount of hodgepodge troops, we were up against the strongest army in the world.” In addition, in a recent interview Dr. Leumas said, “The estimates are that the battle lasted somewhere between 45 minutes and two hours. Most agree it was less than an hour. To beat the British troops that were the best in the world in less than two hours is pretty miraculous!” Sister Carla Dolce likes that word “miraculous.” She is quick to correct anybody talking about a mere victory: “The miraculous victory, ‘miraculous’ victory!” Miracles aside, not all historians are of one mind on why Jackson was so successful in so brief a battle. Ron Chapman is a professor of history at Nunez Community College in Chalmette. He has written extensively about the Battle of New Orleans from his long-held fascination with the subject. Chapman has published a detailed account of Jackson’s success (Or was it British errors?) in his book titled The Battle of New Orleans: But for a piece of wood. To this day, Chapman shakes his head in disbelief as he reads the words he wrote: “How was 74
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it possible that a major British expeditionary force composed of 14,500 soldiers, 3,500 sailors and an armada numbering nearly 100 ships could have failed? The force thrown against Jackson defeated Napoleon in the Spanish Peninsula Campaign. Hearty veterans seasoned by years of combat fell in Chalmette. Despite numerous opportunities for victory over several months, Dame Victory withheld her smile, allowing America to manifest its destiny.” “There was no reason for them to lose thing,” Chapman says. “They had the men, position and the officers. They just brought the wrong equipment and just suffered an unbelievable number of mishaps along the way … unbelievable bad judgments.” Bad judgments like bringing cannon with small wheels designed for the wooden decks of their ships onto the bogs of Chalmette. “Their cannon sunk!” Chapman says. Like carrying rifles with short ranges while the Kentuckians with their long rifles could pick off a man in a brilliant red uniform at up to two miles away. How about total confusion when one officer after another was killed by the Americans? And that “piece of wood” in the title of Chapman’s book? “All they had to do was throw a stick in the river and they could have seen the strength of the current in the river, and realize how quickly it could pull them downriver.” Chapman says. “No! They just loaded their men into boats and crossed the river.” All of which means by the time British soldiers disembarked, ready to do battle in Chalmette, they were somewhere around Port Sulphur. “Even that many mistakes by one side can be called a ‘miraculous victory’ by the other side,” says Sister Carla. “Amen!” comes a voice of affirmation from the back of the room.
Ole Hickory: The Statue The bronze statue of Andrew Jackson astride his prancing steed is perhaps the most widely recognized landmark in the French Quarter. This monument commemorates the United States triumph over the British invasion of 1815: the epic struggle, known as The Battle of New Orleans, which took place at what’s now known as the Chalmette Battlefield on Jan. 8, 1815. At the time (and still today) it seemed an impossible task: Jackson led a ragtag group of regular army units, New Orleans militia, Haitian refugees, frontier volunteers from Tennessee and Kentucky, Jean Lafitte’s pirates and gutsy shopkeepers from the French Quarter to victory over numerically superior British forces. Despite the military significance of the improbable victory and the personal prominence of General Jackson, many specifics of the statue are not widely appreciated. Long before any plans were formulated to erect a monument, Andrew Jackson laid its first cornerstone on Jan. 13, 1840. He had been invited to New Orleans for an extravagant celebration of the 25th anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans. The festivities included a procession to the Place d’ Armes (it didn’t become known as Jackson Square until 1851) where Jackson placed the cornerstone containing a copper box near the center of the square Unlike any other monument in the city, the person being honored had actually participated in its construction. On Jan. 11, 1851, the Jackson Monument Association was formed to garner the necessary funds and to contract with a sculptor. Two artists, Clark Mills and Achille Perelli, a renowned local Italian artist, both submitted equestrian models. Ultimately, Mills won
the bid. The initial contributions totaling $4,140 were a far cry from Mills’ staggering estimate of $28,000. Interestingly, Baroness Pontalba was in Paris at the time and didn’t contribute to the fund. While negotiating with the New Orleans Monument Association, Mills started to research and experiment with his materials. While working at his foundry in Washington D.C., he successfully completed this undertaking and produced the first statue at a cost of about $30,000 which he received from Congress. In 1853, the statue was unveiled in Washington, D.C. It was the very first equestrian statue created in the United States and still stands across from the White House in Lafayette Square. From Mills’ cast, two more statues were turned out, which included the one that stands today in Jackson Square and a third in Nashville. Charles Gayarre, the renowned historian and author of The History of Louisiana, was completing his last year in office in 1853 as Secretary of State. Gayarre was instrumental in appropriating funds for the monument. He also served as a member of the monument committee and published A Sketch of General Jackson, a pamphlet to help raise money for its completion. When adequate funds became available in the state of Louisiana, the association ratified a contract with Mills in 1854. On Oct. 30, 1855, Jackson’s original cornerstone was dug up and re-set at the monument’s current location. Because of unexpected delays in shipping, the initial date for the formal unveiling of the statue had to be rescheduled from Jan. 8, 1856 to Feb. 9. The statue isn’t only an incomparable
work of art, but also an engineering marvel. At one-third larger than life, the statue weighs about 15 tons and is balanced upon the two slender legs of the general’s charger. Mills explained how he achieved this: “The mode in which the statue sustained itself on its hind legs, is on the simple principle of equipoise drawing a vertical line from the front of the hind hoofs upward; the amount of metal on one side of it is equal to that on the other.” Interestingly, although the statue appears completely solid, it is in fact comprised of about 60 independent pieces that fit together with pins. It seems questions regarding the tipping of Jackson’s hat date back to its very inception. Clark Mills, who was present at the dedication, addressed the crowd: “I have thought this explanation necessary, as there are many critics professing not to understand the conception of the artist.” Mills went on to explain, “General Jackson is there represented as he appeared on the morning of the 8th… He has advanced to the center of the line in the act of review; the lines have come to present arms as a salute to their commander, who is acknowledging it by raising his chapeau, according to the military etiquette of the day.” So there you have it: the statue of General Andrew Jackson, familiar to countless native New Orleanians and tourists alike, should serve as a reminder of the rich heritage that was first entrusted to us on a cold, misty January 200 years ago. – Robert Jeanfreau M.D. Dr. Jeanfreau’s book, The Story Behind the Stone is available at Barnes and Noble and can also be purchased online through Amazon. n
the MENU TABLE TALK
FOOD
LAST CALL
DINING LISTINGS
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RESTAURANT INSIDER
“Steak frites is one of those dishes I’d see in all the French Bistros when I worked in Paris,” Chef and Owner John Harris of Lilette says. “It is just classic French.”
jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH
THE MENU / TABLE TALK
Steak Frites
Exploring a French classic BY JAY FORMAN
F
ew dishes have the crossover appeal of steak frites. Its building blocks – beef, potatoes and some iteration of a mother sauce – have the kind of safe, mass appeal of an entrée shaped from a series of corporate focus group sessions. Yet it’s the variations possible on these basic themes where the true refinements and creativity come into play. Sometimes called “America’s Favorite French Dish,” it often serves as a canvas for chefs to play around with a blue chip dish in a way that, say, an entrée of chicken breast something-something never could. And unlike the chicken breast, this is a dish that chefs will gladly sit down to eat. It is comfort food that will always have a place on even the ritziest of menus. Here are a few of the variations you can find around town. John Harris features an excellent version of the dish on his menu at Lilette. “Steak frites is one
of those dishes I’d see in all the French Bistros when I worked in Paris,” Harris says. “It is just classic French.” His take is traditional; distinguished by an excellent bordelaise sauce beefed up with marrow. Hanger steak is the cut of choice and his frites are tossed in garlic butter right before they come to the table. But for Harris, the sauce is key. It starts with his veal stock reduction, made ahead of time and kept on-hand for service. When the ticket comes in he sautés garlic, thyme, shallot and butter, then hits it with the reduction. A few disks of beef marrow held in ice water go into the saucepan for the last few seconds before coming off the fire. The result is a marrow-infused Bordelaise sauce with incredible depth of flavor. Eaten either in either the bustling main dining room or al fresco in Lilette’s
Get Your Frites On Lilette 3637 Magazine St. 895-1636 LiletteRestaurant.com Lunch Tuesdays-Saturdays, dinner Mondays-Saturdays
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Carrollton Market 8132 Hampson St. 252-9928 CarrolltonMarket.com Dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays
Toast 5433 Laurel St. 267-3260 ToastNewOrleans.com Breakfast and lunch Tuesdays-Saturday.
La Crepe Nanou 1410 Robert St. 899-2670 LaCrepeNanou.com Dinner nightly, brunch Sundays
jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH
Besh & Boca John Besh’s Lüke in the CBD offers a brawny version featuring ribeye finished with maître d’hôtel compound butter along with béarnaise or a sour-mash steak sauce for the house-cut fries. A jumbo lump crabmeat supplement puts it over-the-top. Or head to La Boca, where you can assemble your own from their excellent Vacio flank steak and an `a la carte order of garlicy frites. charming side patio, the dish is transporting. Jason Goodenough, the chef and owner of Carrollton Market in the Riverbend, has a soft spot for the dish as well. “Steak frites is one of my favorite things to eat,” he says. “It is just one of those dishes that I think is such a stand-by – it’s “quote unquote” simple but, really, it isn’t. There are so many variables that go into it.” Goodenough takes a more flexible approach, most notably swapping out the hanger steak for a New York Strip. Goodenough toyed with a bunch of different cuts including hanger, flatiron and skirt before making up his mind. His reasoning was better consistency and control over the final doneness. “With hanger, the portions coming in were often long and thin but then thick in other places – it was hard to catch a consistent temp all the way though on the line,” he explains. For his version, Goodenough brings in the whole strip loin and breaks it down in house. Trimming it to a uniform thickness helps on the line. For service, the portioned strip is pan-roasted then
finished in the oven to desired doneness, then plated with house-cut frites that are first blanched then fried. His also comes with two sauces, a rich demi-glace for the steak and a New Orleans-style béarnaise – essentially hollandaise with tarragon – for the fries. Carrollton Market offers seating at a short bar overlooking the open kitchen if you want to see the crew at work, or else grab a seat in the tastefully contemporary dining room. Food memories associated with the dish for Goodenough include the version served at Balthazar in his native New York – “I love the way they do it there – I get it every time I go,” Goodenough says. The distinctive licoricelike note of tarragon is also a feature in a variation served at Toast, Cara Benson’s Uptown offshoot of her popular Tartine. Toast is primarily a breakfast and brunch destination, specializing in pancakes, aebelskivers and yes, toast, but Benson’s short list of entrées includes a dish of hanger steak with Lyonnaise potatoes and tarragon aioli. It makes for a popular crossover option for those wanting something more substantial than the typical breakfast and brunch fix. Eggs sunny-side up makes for an especially rich rendition. For the version served at La Crepe Nanou, the more traditional hanger steak is swapped out with filet mignon, and the diner gets to choose which sauce will accompany the dish. Béarnaise, cognac, mushroom and garlic are all options. This mix-andmatch take is a less composed version than the ones found at Lilette and Carrollton Market, but some diners likely appreciate the choice. And for Parisian feel, few places capture the intimacy more than this Uptown crêperie. n
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Korean Star
Seoul Shack, Bao and Noodle and a place too new to name BY ROBERT PEYTON
Seoul Shack
Bao and Noodle
Awaiting a name
Chef Dan Esses and Sophie Lee’s Frenchmen Street restaurant, Three Muses, has been a hit since it opened in August 2010. Blending great food and live music, the restaurant has always served at least one Korean dish to honor Lee’s mother, Moon, but at Seoul Shack, the restaurant Esses and Lee have opened in the Dragon’s Den at 435 Esplanade Ave., Korean food is the star. Esses told me that most of the dishes are based on Lee’s mother’s recipes, but like any good chef he’s developed his own sense of the flavors and ingredients involved. The kimchee is made in-house at Seoul Shack, and soupstew called kimchee-jigae is a perfect vehicle for the stuff. It is hot, spicy and full of tofu and chiles, in addition to the kimchee. Bibimbap is another iconic Korean dish in which a number of simply prepared ingredients are served atop a bowl of rice. At Seoul Shack, Esses and chef de cuisine Matthew Stacy add carrots, cucumber, marinated sprouts, spinach and a sunny-side up egg, along with the spicy miso-like condiment gochujang. You can order the dish with grilled beef, pork or tofu. In the latter case, and without the egg, the dish is vegetarian; Seoul Shack’s menu has ample meat-free options. As I write, the restaurant is open Thursdays through Sundays from 6 p.m. until 1 a.m., but Esses said they were planning to open every day but Monday. For more information, call 417-6206.
In October, Bao and Noodle opened in the Marigny at 2700 Chartres St. Chef Doug Crowell spent a number of years cooking at Herbsaint before opening a restaurant serving Chinese cuisine. The menu is tightly focused, with a half-dozen small plates and a similar number of more substantial dishes. The restaurant’s name comes from two dishes featured prominently. Bao are typically steamed wheat flour buns with various fillings. Crowell does them two ways; in one version he first steams then fries the buns, leaving them with a crisp exterior and a light interior. They are also baked and filled with Chinese-style roast pork. Ma Po Tofu is a Szechuanese tofu dish that was said to be Chairman Mao’s favorite. In most versions the chef adds a little ground pork to complement the soft cubes of tofu; at Bao and Noodle the pork is served in more substantial pieces and roasted rather than simply stir-fried. The sauce gets heat from both chile and Szechuan peppercorns, the latter of which leave a tingling sensation on the tongue that, if not used with restraint, can overwhelm the palate. Fortunately, Crowell knows what he’s doing, because he shows an admirably light hand in using the pepper in both the Ma Po Tofu and the spicy pork Dan Dan noodles. Bao and Noodle is open seven days, from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner. Call 272-0004 to find out more.
As I write, Robert LeBlanc’s planned Uptown restaurant lacks both a name and a chef. LeBlanc had planned to open the restaurant at 3607 Magazine St. late this year or early next, but when chef Alex Harrell (formerly of Sylvain) decided to open his own restaurant in the space formerly occupied by Stella!, LeBlanc decided to go back to the drawing board. To his credit, LeBlanc has nothing but positive things to say about Harrell, without whom, he says, Sylvain would never have been successful. He credited Harrell with teaching him a great deal about operating a successful restaurant, and said he had no doubt that Harrell’s new place will be outstanding. Still, as of this writing the restaurant LeBlanc was tentatively calling “Manor on Magazine” is in flux, despite the fact that LeBlanc has already cleared one hurdle that causes problems for many restaurateurs: obtaining a liquor license. LeBlanc told me that he is certain of two things; he’s definitely going forward with the restaurant, and the building is spectacular. LeBlanc is a talented restaurateur and he’s already got some leads on a chef to replace Harrell, so I expect to enjoy the new place when it opens. LeBlanc says that could happen as early as May, but that September was more likely. Whenever it opens, you’ll undoubtedly be reading more about it here.
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Crunch and Munch Recipes for Christmas dinner by Dale Curry
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Toffee Butter Crunch 2 sticks butter 1 1/2 cups sugar 3 Tablespoons water 1 Tablespoon white corn syrup 1 cup coarsely chopped almonds, toasted 4 4 1/2-ounce milk chocolate candy bars, such as Hershey’s, or 18 ounces milk chocolate without nuts, melted 1 cup finely chopped almonds, toasted In a large saucepan, melt butter and add sugar, water and corn syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, to hard-crack stage – about 300 degrees. Quickly stir in coarsely chopped almonds, abd spread in a well-greased 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Cool thoroughly. When toffee is cooled, turn out on waxed paper. Melt chocolate in top of a double boiler and pour half onto one side of toffee and spread. Sprinkle with the other cup of finely chopped almonds. Cover with waxed paper. Invert and spread other side with chocolate and sprinkle with remaining nuts. Cool until chocolate is firm. To speed the firming, cool in a refrigerator. When set, crack the candy into pieces using an ice pick. The pieces should be about 1 or 2 inches in size. Store in a closed container. This will keep for a week to 10 days, and can be served gradually in candy dishes. Makes about 1 1/2 pound
I
have always been at home for Christmas, except for once when we flew to Colorado on Christmas morning to go skiing. It was one of the most invigorating, memorable Christmases our family has ever experienced. For the first time we built snow men and wore scarves, hats and boots and watched the sun go down over white mountains while warming our hands and hearts by the fire. This year brings our second venture away for the holidays. The extended family will spend them in Los Angeles at the home of one of our daughters. As much as I love tradition, I can’t wait. Not the least of my excitement is that I’ve decided not to get the decorations down from the attic. That may sound like a Scrooge in the making, but Christmas is my favorite time of the year. It is just that I’m glad to escape all of the hard work for once in my life, especially the part that comes with taking decorations down and putting them away. Yes, this year I’m as free as a bird and looking forward to it. Now all I have to do is come up with some old family favorites to do my share of the cooking.
Breakfast Casserole Butter 10 1-inch-thick slices poor boy French bread, preferably day-old 1 1/2 pounds bulk pork sausage, preferably hot 6 green onions, chopped 3 Tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 9 eggs 3 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) 1 1/2 cups extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, divided Grease a 9-by-13-inch glass casserole dish with butter. Line dish with French bread slices. In a medium skillet, brown the sausage, turning and crumbling into 1/2- to 1-inch pieces. Add onions while sausage is browning, and cook until wilted. Drain off grease. Mix in parsley. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs until mixed. Add milk, seasonings and 1/2-cup of cheese. Pour into casserole dish over bread. Add sausage mixture and top with remaining cup of cheese. Cover and refrigerate overnight. An hour before you plan to serve the casserole the next morning, remove casserole from refrigerator. Heat oven to 350 degrees. When casserole is no longer chilled, remove cover and bake about 45 minutes or until casserole is firm and light brown on top. Serves 8 to 10
I will start with the sweets. There’s no doubt about the all-time favorite there: it’s the Toffee Butter Crunch that my mother always called “crack candy” because you cracked it with an ice pick, though sometimes she used a hammer. This rates right up there with red-andgreen cheese balls to decorate a party as well as feed the crowd. There is little question about the favorite side dish: it’s a spinach-cream cheese-water chestnut dish that won a cooking contest at the New Orleans Press Club back when I was working at The States-Item. The judge was the late Richard Collin, who put restaurant criticism on the map locally. The recipe belonged to a women from Plaquemines Parish whose name I’ve long forgotten. The perpetual breakfast casserole – my Louisiana version, that is – must be readied the night before to bake the next morning while presents are opened, be it New Orleans or Los Angeles. And we are leaning toward gift certificates since we can’t carry bundles on the plane. That means I don’t have to shop. Looks like I’ve gotten all the breaks this year.
Christmas Cheese Balls 2 8-ounce packages cream cheese 2 cups shredded pepper Jack cheese 2 Tablespoons finely chopped onion Salt and pepper to taste 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1/2 cup chopped pecans, toasted 3/4 cup chopped curly parsley 3/4 cup chopped dried cranberries (about 3 ounces) Assorted crackers Bring cheeses to room temperature. In a large bowl, mix cheeses, onion, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and pecans until smooth. Divide in half and form into two round balls. Place parsley and cranberries on two separate sheets of waxed paper and spread evenly. Roll one cheese ball in parsley and the other in cranberries. Refrigerate for several hours before serving. These can be made a day ahead. Serve on separate plates with assorted crackers. Serves a crowd at parties
Spinach Casserole 2 packages frozen chopped spinach 1 large can whole artichokes 1 stick plus 2 Tablespoons butter, divided 1 8-ounce package cream cheese 1 can sliced water chestnuts Breadcrumbs, about 1/2 cup Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cook spinach according to package directions and drain. Cut artichokes into fourths. Melt stick of butter in medium saucepan and remove from heat. Add cream cheese and blend together until smooth. Add spinach and water chestnuts. Line pie plate with artichoke pieces. Cover with spinach mixture. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Dot with extra butter, about 2 Tablespoons. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 8 n
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Christmas Cruising A cocktail from the Natchez BY tim mcnally
M
ost people’s holiday traditions are family-oriented and personal. The memories of fathers and mothers putting in extra hours to assure that family celebrations are just right, while all the while remaining secretive about events and presents. Then there are the aunts and uncles who managed to be particularly happy around all the relatives, likely because they were full of the holiday spirit(s). Grandparents fell somewhere in between those two familial groups, happy, cagey and focused even more so on the behavior, good and bad, of us little darlings. New Orleans’ holidays are a bit different from other cities’ celebrations. More food. More drink. Singing carols in a grand square with the Archbishop. No snow. Lots of parties and social events –even more so than the usual, which is saying something. We have our own holiday music, gumbos, sausages, drinks, theme characters and lighting. Since the season is so special and unique here, why not participate in something new for the family celebration? The Steamboat Natchez can give your brood and friends a grand view of the city from the river. And while you’re aboard, have a special rum cocktail, created by one of the finest mixologists in the world, our own Nick Detrich. Another reason to love the holiday season in New Orleans. Be happy, y’all. n
The Cruzan Natchez Cocktail 1 1/2 parts Cruzan® Estate Diamond® Light Rum 1/2 part Knob Creek® Bourbon 1/4 part John D. Taylor’s Velvet Falernum 1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters Rinse with Herbsaint Legendre Combine all ingredients, excluding Herbsaint Legendre, in a cocktail glass. Add ice and stir 35 to 40 times. Rinse a chilled cocktail glass with Herbsaint Legendre. Strain cocktail into glass. Inspired by the Rum Ramsey as created by Nick Detrich, owner and mixologist at Cane & Table, 1113 Decatur St,, 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com 84
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THE MENU / DINING GUIDE H= New Orleans Magazine award winner / $ = Average entrée price. $ = $5-10 / $$ = $11-15 / $$$ = $16-20 / $$$$ = $21-25 / $$$$$ = $25 and up.
American
Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill Multiple Locations, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Also offers catering services. $$$
Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Elizabeth’s 601 Gallier St., 944-9272, ElizabethsRestaurantNola.com. B, L MonFri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sat-Sun. This eclectic local restaurant draws rave reviews for its praline bacon and distinctive Southern-inspired brunch specials. $$$
H Maurepas 3200 Burgundy St., 2670072, MaurepasFoods.com. D Thu-Tue, Br Sat-Sun. Pioneering farm-to-table restaurant with an ingredient-driven menu that changes daily. Clever cocktails a plus as well. $$ Satsuma Café 3218 Dauphine St., 3045962, SatsumaCafe.com. B, L daily (until 5 p.m.). Offers healthy, inspired breakfast and lunch fare, along with freshly squeezed juices. $
CITY PARK––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Café NOMA, 1 Collins Diboll Circle, NO Museum of Art, City Park, 482-1264, CafeNoma.com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– The Grill Room Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-1992, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Manning’s 519 Fulton St., 593-8118. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Born of a partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up in terms of comfort and quality. With a menu that
draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South, traditional dishes get punched up with inspired but accessible twists in surroundings accented by both memorabilia and local art. $$$ Pete’s Pub Intercontinental Hotel, 444 St. Charles Ave., 585-5401, IcNewOrleans.com/dining/petes_pub. D Mon-Fri. Casual fare and adult beverages are served in this pub on the ground floor. $$ Q&C Hotel/Bar 344 Camp St., (866) 247-7936, QandC.com. B, D daily. Newly renovated boutique hotel offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$
H Root 200 Julia St., 252-9480, RootNola. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. Try the country fried chicken wings and the Cohiba-smoked scallops crusted with chorizo. $$$$
H Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Tivoli & Lee 2 Lee Circle, 962-0909, TivoliAndLee.com. B, L, D daily, Br SatSun. Progressive Southern cuisine is the focus. Rabbit sliders, poke salad and pickled shrimp redefine locally sourced ingredients, and craft cocktail and bourbon menus round out the appeal. Craft cocktail bar Bellocq serves specialty and locally influenced libations. $$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar 1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons.com. L, D, daily. Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more made distinctive with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$ Warehouse Grille, 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille.com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sun. Creative fare served in
an art-filled environment. Try the duck crêpes or the lamb spring rolls. $$ Wolfe’s in the Warehouse 859 Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882. B, L, D daily. Chef Tom Wolfe brings his refined cuisine to the booming Fulton Street corridor. His Smoked Kobe Short Ribs are a good choice. $$$
Downtown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Camellia Grill 540 Chartres St., 5221800. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. This location has a liquor license and credit cards are now accepted. $
Faubourg Marigny–––––––––––––––––– The Marigny Brasserie 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie.com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the Wedge of Lettuce salad and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Cosmo. $$$ Snug Harbor 626 Frenchman St., 949-0696, SnugJazz.com. D daily. This jazz club serves cocktails and a dining menu loaded with steaks, seafood and meaty burgers served with loaded baked potatoes. $$$$
French Quarter–––––––––––––––––––––– Hard Rock Café 125 Bourbon St., 5295617, HardRock.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ The Pelican Club 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$ Rib Room Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Old World elegance and high ceilings, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on weekends a champagne brunch. $$$
GARDEN DISTRICT–––––––––––––––––––––––– Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s, 2001
St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– café B, 2700 Metairie Road, 934-4700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Sat. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this family-friendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Heritage Grill, 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, HeritageGrillMetairie. com. L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office crowd and offers a freshly squeezed juice menu to go along with its regular menu and express two-course lunch. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmer Ave., 8967300, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, towering burgers, hearty soups and salads and giant, deli-style sandwiches. $ Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Innovative establishment offers fresh seafood, grilled meats and vegetarian dishes in a chic environment. Daily chef specials showcase unique ingredients and make this place a popular destination for dates as well as groups of friends. $$
Mid-City–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Parkway Bakery and Tavern 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $
NORTHSHORE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Dakota 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 892-3712, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$
Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Carrollton Market 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket.com. D TueSat. Modern Southern cuisine manages
Red Gravy Celebrates Fourth Anniversary With Tuscan Tasting Red Gravy, 125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravyCafe.com Roseann Melisi Rostoker was a 10-year-old New Jersey girl when she decided she wanted to own and run a restaurant. It wasn’t until her 41st birthday trip to New Orleans that she decided to open it here, serving traditional, home-made Italian food. “We are celebrating our fourth anniversary with a special “Taste of Tuscany” Tasting Menu,” Rostoker says. “As we enter our fifth year, we look forward to continuing to support local farmers, fishers and bakers with our farm-to-table philosophy.” – Mirella Cameran
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to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$
7420, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses and snacks to-go. $
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Slim Goodies 3322 Magazine St., 891 EGGS (3447), SlimGoodiesDiner.com. B, L daily. This diner offers an exhaustive menu heavily influenced by local cuisine. Try the Creole Slammer, a breakfast platter rounded out by crawfish étouffée. The laid-back vibe is best enjoyed on the patio out back. $
Audubon Clubhouse 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute.org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 3092679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Dessert fans flock to this sweetcentric Copeland establishment which also offers extensive lunch and dinner menus. $$$
H The Company Burger 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ GG’s Dine-O-Rama 3100 Magazine St., 373-6579, GGsNewOrleans.com. B Sat, L, Tue-Sun, D Tue-Fri, Br Sun. Upscalecasual restaurant serves a variety of specialty sandwiches, salads and wraps, like the Chicago-style hot dog and the St. Paddy’s Day Massacre, chef Gotter’s take on the Rueben. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 3500 Magazine St., 894-
Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., 527-0771, SteinsDeli.net. B, L, D TueSun. New York City meets New Orleans. The Reuben and Rachel sandwiches are the real deal and the half-sours and pickled tomatoes complete the deli experience. $ Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., 524-3828; 4807 Magazine St., 895-5757, SurreysCafeAndJuiceBar. com. B, L daily. Laid-back café focuses on breakfast and brunch dishes to accompany freshly squeezed juice offerings. Health-food lovers will like it here, along with fans of favorites such as peanut butter and banana pancakes. Cash only. $$ Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola.com. L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down. Also a great location to watch the game. $
H Upperline 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun.
Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented chef Dave Bridges make for a winning combination at this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$
H Wayfare 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, WayfareNola.com. L, D daily. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933.com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$
Creative rolls and a huge list of fusion dishes keep party-lovers going late into the night at this combination sushi and martini bar. $$$
Garden District––––––––––––––––––––––– Hoshun Restaurant 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good. Private dining rooms available. $$
H Tan Dinh 1705 Lafayette St., 361-
Asian Fusion/ Pan Asian
8008. B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$
CBD/Warehouse District–––––––––––
Lakeview Pearl 6300 Canal St., 3095711, LakeviewPearl.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this Asian-Fusion restaurant. $$
Little Tokyo Multiple locations, LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$
Horinoya 920 Poydras St., 561-8914. L, D daily. Excellent Japanese dining. The chutoro is delicious and the selection of authentic Japanese appetizers is the best. $$$ Rock-N-Sake 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– V Sushi 821 Iberville St., 609-2291, VSushiMartini.com. D daily, late-night.
Lakeview–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Aloha Sushi 619 Pink St., 837-0055, SunRayGrill.com. L Tue-Fri, D, Tue-Sun. Fresh fish and creative rolls, along with gluten-free options such as rolls in bowls, sushi burritos and other lunch friendly Japanese fare featured. $$
H Royal China 600 Veterans Blvd., 831-9633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$
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DINING GUIDE MARRERO–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Daiwa, 5033 Lapalco Blvd., 875-4203, DaiwaSushi.com. L, D daily. Japanese destination on the Westbank serves an impressive and far-ranging array of creative fusion fare. $$$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Café Minh 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring a fusion touch to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$ Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$
H MoPho 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoMidCity.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$
Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Ba Chi Canteen 7900 Maple St., 3735628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try the caramelized pork “Baco”. $
H Chill Out Café 729 Burdette St., 8729628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this afford-
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able college-friendly hangout. $
Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chiba 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Chiba-Nola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$
H Jung’s Golden Dragon 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280, JungsChinese.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes and dumplings. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $
H Magasin 4201 Magazine St., 8967611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budgetfriendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $ Kyoto 4920 Prytania St., 891-3644, KyotoNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood sushi restaurant where the regulars order off-the-menu rolls. $$
WEST BANK––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Nine Roses 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant.com. L, D Sun-Tue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. $$
Bakery/Breakfast
Café du Monde Multiple Locations, CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Community Coffee House Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Merchant 800 Common St., 571-9580, MerchantNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Illy coffee and creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $
H Ruby Slipper Café 200 Magazine St., 525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$
CARROLLTON––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Breads on Oak, 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L Wed-Sun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak Street serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $
City Park––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Morning Call 56 Dreyfous Drive, City Park, 885-4068, NewOrleansCityPark. com/in-the-park/morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets coated with powdered sugar make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $
Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––– H Ruby Slipper Café 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Gracious Bakery + Café 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery on the ground floor of the Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $
H Ruby Slipper Café 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$
Barbecue
Lakeview–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
The Joint 701 Mazant St., 949-3232, AlwaysSmokin.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Some of the city’s best barbecue can be had at this locally owned and operated favorite. $
Lakeview Harbor 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887, NewOrleansBestBurger.com. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $
Lower Garden District–––––––––––––
METAIRIE––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Bywater––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Voodoo BBQ 1501 St. Charles Ave., 5224647, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$
Cheeseburger Eddie’s, 4517 W Esplanade Ave., 455-5511, AustinsNo.com/ Cheeseburger-Eddie-s.html. L, D Mon-Sat. Hickory-grilled burgers are the main draw at this casual spot but tacos, tamales, poor boys and more are also served. $
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cowbell 8801 Oak St., 298-8689,
Voodoo BBQ 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$
Burgers
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bayou Burger, 503 Bourbon St., 5294256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Zydeco Bites. $$ Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., 5230120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/ restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$
Cowbell-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites like skirt steak. $$
French
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– Chateau du Lac 857 Fulton St., 301-0235, ChateauduLacWarehouse.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. $$$$ Le Foret 129 Camp St., 553-6738, LeForetNewOrleans.com. D Mon-Sat. Sophisticated fine dining melds southern cuisine and classic French with modernist influences in an elegant setting. $$$$
Faubourg St. John–––––––––––––––––––– H Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave.,
945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$
serves creative and contemporary bistro fare in a romantic setting. The signature Daisy Salad is a favorite. $$$$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Broussard’s, 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. D daily, Br Sun. CreoleFrench institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$
0421, CoquetteNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Wed-Mon, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael and his partner Lillian Hubbard. $$$
H Marti’s 1041 Dumaine St., 522-5478,
H Dominique’s On Magazine 4213
MartisNola.com. D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with an elegant “Old World” feel. $$$
Magazine St., 891-9282, DominiquesOnMag.com. D Mon-Sat. The strikingly contemporary build-out complements the exciting and progressive menu at this national award-winning destination. $$$
Lacombe–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H La Provence 25020 Highway 190,
Flaming Torch 737 Octavia St., 895-0900, FlamingTorchNola.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. French classics including a tasty onion soup and often a sought-after coq-au-vin. $$
(985) 626-7662, LaProvenceRestaurant. com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Chef John Besh upholds time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards his guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chateau du Lac 2037 Metairie Road, 8313773, ChateauduLacBistro.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. $$$$
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bistro Daisy 5831 Magazine St., 8996987, BistroDaisy.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Anton Schulte and his wife Diane’s bistro
H Coquette 2800 Magazine St., 265-
H La Crêpe Nanou 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L TueSat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D MonSat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu
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DINING GUIDE draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$
cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully composed libations. $$
H Martinique Bistro 5908 Magazine St.,
Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
891-8495, MartiniqueBistro.com. D TueSun, Br Sat-Sun. French colonial fare served in a lovely covered courtyard, as well as a tempting weekend brunch. $$
The Avenue Pub 1732 St. Charles Ave., 586-9243, TheAvenuePub.com. Kitchen open 24/7. With more than 43 rotating draft beers, this pub also offers food, including a cheese plate from St. James Cheese Co. and the “Pub Burger.” Counter service only. $
Gastropub
Abita Springs–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Abita Brew Pub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D TueSun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$
CBD/Warehouse District–––––––––– Gordon Biersch 200 Poydras St., 5522739, GordonBiersch.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowdpleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$ Victory 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, VictoryNola.com. D Tue-Sat. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cane & Table 1113 Decatur St., 5811112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Open late, this chef-driven rustic colonial cuisine and rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this beautifully renovated bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$
H Patrick’s Bar Vin 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$
Lower Garden District––––––––––––– The Tasting Room 1926 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans.com. D WedSun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar near Coliseum Square. $$
Mid-City–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Trèo 3835 Tulane Ave., 304-4878, TreoNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Craft
Bouligny Tavern 3641 Magazine St., 8911810, BoulignyTavern.com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. L SatSun, D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$
Italian
Avondale–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mosca’s 4137 Highway 90 West, 4638950, MoscasRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$
Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mariza 2900 Charters St., 598-5700, MarizaNewOrleans.com. D Tue-Sat. An Italian-inspired restaurant by chef Ian Schnoebelen features a terrific raw bar, house-cured charcuterie and an array of refined adult beverages served in the industrial/contemporary setting on the ground floor of the Rice Mills lofts. $$$
CBD/Warehouse District–––––––––– H Domenica The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Chef Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées, feature locally raised products, some from chef John Besh’s Northshore farm. $$$$ Mother’s 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues
and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$
menu including housemade salumi and antipasti as well as old school classics like veal osso bucco. Private dining is offered for special events. $$$
Red Gravy 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. B, Br, L, D, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table Italian restaurant offers a creative array of breakfast items such as Cannoli Pancakes as well as delectable sandwiches and more for lunch. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties like Cacciucco round out the dinner menu. $$
Muriel’s Jackson Square 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$
Tommy’s Cuisine 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$
Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––– Praline Connection 542 Frenchmen St., 943-3934, PralineConnection.com. L, D daily. Down-home dishes of smothered pork chops, greens, beans and cornbread are on the menu at this Creole soul restaurant. $$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Café Giovanni 117 Decatur St., 529-2154, CafeGiovanni.com. D daily. Live opera singers three nights a week. A selection of Italian specialties tweaked with a Creole influence and their Belli Baci happy hour adds to the atmosphere. $$$$ Chartres House, 601 Chartres St., 5868383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 529881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$
H Italian Barrel 430 Barracks St., 569-0198, ItalianBarrel.com. L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt here at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$
H Maximo’s Italian Grill 1117 Decatur St., 586-8883, MaximosGrill.com. D daily. Italian destination features a sprawling
Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., 524522-4152, NapoleonHouse.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas, and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, Emerils.com. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$
H R’evolution 777 Bienville St., 5532277, RevolutionNola.com. L Wed-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$
H Tujague’s 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$
Bobby Hebert’s Cajun Cannon Restaurant Fires Up a Storm Bobby Hebert’s Cajun Cannon Restaurant & Bar, 4101 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 324-6841, BobbyHeberts.com Former New Orleans Saints quarterback Bobby Hebert has opened his own restaurant and bar on Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. The 100-item menu has something for everyone, and the décor provides sports fans with a full-throttle experience. There are 30 TVs, including a 90-inch, in the restaurant and 42-inch screens in the bathrooms. Sports memorabilia from Hebert’s personal collection, top athletes and other Saints greats such as Drew Brees, Tom Dempsey and Archie Manning, are on display. Hebert’s weekly Saints pre-game show during football season on WWL is broadcast from the location, where every TV is tuned to support the Who Dats. – M.C.
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cheryl gerber photo
Lakeview––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Tony Angello’s 6262 Fleur de Lis
Louisianian Fare
Drive, 488-0888, TonyAngellos.com. D TueSat. Creole-Italian favorite serves up fare. Ask Tony to “Feed Me” if you want a real multi-course dining experience. $$$$
Ralph’s On The Park 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Andrea’s Restaurant 3100 19th St.,
NORTHSHORE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Del Porto Ristorante 501 E. Boston
568-0245, AnnunciationRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$
834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$
St., (985) 875-1006, DelPortoRistorante. com. L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of locally sourced meats and produce. $$$
Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., 5243386, TheBonTonCafe.com. L, D Mon-Fri. A local favorite for the old-school business lunch crowd specializing in local seafood and Cajun dishes. $$$$
Semolina 4436 Veterans Blvd., Suite 37, 454-7930, Semolina.com. L, D daily. This casual, contemporary pasta restaurant takes a bold approach to cooking Italian food, emphasizing flavors, texture and color. Many of the dishes feature a signature Louisiana twist, such as the muffuletta pasta and pasta jambalaya. $$
Amici 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, AmiciNola.com. L, D daily. Coal-fired pizza is the callign card for this destination, but the menu offers an impressive list of authentic and Creole Italian specialties as well. $$
Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Liuzza’s 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. Cash only. $$
Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. L MonFri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Annunciation 1016 Annunciation St.,
Café Adelaide Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CafeAdelaide. com. B, D daily, L Mon-Fri. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for business-people and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$
H Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. Reservations strongly recommended. $$ Drago’s Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant. com. L, D daily. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$
Emeril’s 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 5289393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L MonFri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$
H Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 5244114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D MonSat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ Mulate’s 201 Julia St., 522-1492, Mulates.com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this worldfamous Cajun destination. $$ Palette 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2350, B, L, D daily. Creole, Cajun and French flavors all come together at this restaurant in the Renaissance Hotel near the Convention Center. $$
Darrow–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Café Burnside Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$ Latil’s Landing Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantation-style cooking served in an opulent setting features
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DINING GUIDE dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$
(tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$
baked oysters served. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$
Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––––
The Bombay Club Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 586-0972, TheBombayClub. com. D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$
Galatoire’s 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$
Café Maspero 601 Decatur St., 523-6250, CafeMaspero.com. L, D daily. Tourists line up for their generous portions of seafood and large deli sandwiches. $
House of Blues 225 Decatur St., 3104999, HouseOfBlues.com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Surprisingly good menu complements music in the main room. Worldfamous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$
Feelings Cafe 2600 Chartres St., 9452222, FeelingsCafe.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Romantic ambiance and skillfully created dishes, such as veal d’aunoy, make dining here on the patio a memorable experience. A piano bar on Fridays adds to the atmosphere. Vegan menu offered. $$$$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville St., 5225973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$
H Arnaud’s 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is á la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$
H The Bistreaux New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 5868000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining.html. L, D daily. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale
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Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$
H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse. com. B, L, D daily. Classic Creole dishes such as redfish on the halfshell and
K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul.com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$
H MiLa 817 Common St., 412-2580, MiLaNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Latest offering from husbandand-wife chefs Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing focuses on the fusion of the cuisines of Miss. and La. $$$$ Royal House, 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and
shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$
H Tableau 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Gulf seafood such as trout amandine and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Sardou are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre on the corner of Jackson Square. $$$
Kenner–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Copeland’s 1319 W. Esplanade Ave., 6179146, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$
Lakeview–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cava 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D Mon-Sat. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$
Metairie/Jefferson––––––––––––––––––
Acme Oyster House 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$
Br Sun. Spot local and national politicos dining at this favored Creole soul restaurant known for homey classics like fried chicken and trout Baquet. $
Austin’s 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 8885533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$
H Mandina’s 3800 Canal St., 482-9179,
Copeland’s 1001 S. Clearview Parkway, 620-7800; 701 Veterans Blvd., 831-3437, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$
H Redemption 3835 Iberville St., 309-
Crabby Jack’s 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. L MonSat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $
Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$
Drago’s 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity. com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$ Lil’ Dizzy’s Café 1500 Esplanade Ave., 569-8997, LilDizzysCafe.com. B, L daily,
MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$ 3570, Redemption-Nola.com. L Wed-Fri & Sun, D Wed-Sun. Chef-driven “Revival” Creole fare served in an inspiring former church. $$$
H Toups’ Meatery 845 N. Carrollton
NORTHSHORE––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Acme Oyster House 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 246-6155, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Gallagher’s Grill 509 S. Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill.com. L, D TueFri, D Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$
Riverbend––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Boucherie 8115 Jeannette St., 8625514, Boucherie-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Serving contemporary Southern food
with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$
dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Award-winner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$
Brigtsen’s 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$
Dick and Jenny’s 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$
University Area––––––––––––––––––––––– H Dunbar’s 501 Pine St., 861-5451. Be-
Domilise’s 5240 Annunciation St., 899912. L, D Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $
loved budget-friendly Creole institution in an unlikely spot – Loyola University’s Broadway campus – but the excellent jambalaya, fried chicken and red beans and rice haven’t changed. $
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Apolline 4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, ApollineRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences such as buttermilk fried quail with corn waffle. $$$ Casamento’s 4330 Magazine St., 8959761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Thu-Sat. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s 6100 Annunciation St., 8951111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande
H Gautreau’s 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$ Jacques-Imo’s Cafe 8324 Oak St., 8610886, Jacques-Imos.com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$ Joey K’s 3001 Magazine St., 891-0997, JoeyKsRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A true neighborhood restaurant with daily lunch plates; red beans and rice are classic. $ Mahony’s 3454 Magazine St., 899-3374, MahonysPoBoys.com. L, D daily. Along with the usual poor boys, this sandwich shop serves up a grilled shrimp and fried green tomato version dressed with
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fillets. Open since 1934, it’s more than a restaurant, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$
Mat & Naddie’s 937 Leonidas St., 8619600, MatAndNaddies.com. D Mon-Tue, Thu-Sat. Cozy converted house serves up creative and eclectic regionally inspired fare. Shrimp and crawfish croquettes make for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Borgne 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana seafood with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$
WEST BANK–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
H Pêche 800 Magazine St., 522-1744,
Copeland’s 2333 Manhattan Blvd., 3641575, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$
PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven. An excellent raw bar is offered as well. $$$
Pizza
H Rio Mar 800 S. Peters St., 525-3474,
Reginelli’s Pizzeria Multiple Locations, Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$ Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with a lot of local ingredients at cheap prices. $$
Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Pizza Delicious 617 Piety St., 6768282, PizzaDelicious.com. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant that began as a pop-up, but they also offer excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes as well. Outdoor seating a plus. $
Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Ancora 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, AncoraPizza.com. D Mon-Sat. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$ Slice 1513 St. Charles Ave., 525-PIES (7437); 5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; SlicePizzeria.com. L, D daily. Order up slices or whole pizza pies done in several styles (thin- and thick-crust) as well as pastas, seafood, panini and salads. $
Seafood
Akers–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Middendorf’s Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 3866666, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish
RioMarSeafood.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Seafood-centric destination focuses on Latin American and Spanish cuisines. Try the bacalaitos and the escabeche. The tapas lunch is a great way to try a little of everything. Save room for the tres leches. $$$$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 5220111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 841 Iberville St., 5811316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$
H GW Fins 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$
H Kingfish 337 Charters St., 598-5005, CocktailBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Gulf seafood and nouvelle Creole dishes such as smoked rabbit gumbo are the main draws at this establishment helmed by Greg Sonnier, as well as the excellent bar program by mixologist Chris McMillian. $$$ Landry’s Seafood 400 N. Peters St., 5580038, LandrysSeafood.com. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$ Le Bayou, 208 Bourbon St., 525-4755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this
seafood-centric destination on Bourbon Street. Fried alligator is available for the more daring diner. $$$
daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$
Oceana Grill 739 Conti St., 525-6002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$
Chophouse New Orleans 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$
Pier 424, 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “CajunBoiled” Lobster prepared crawfish-style in spicy crab boil. $$$
Kenner––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 910 W. Esplanade Ave., Ste. A, 463-3030, AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Austin’s Restaurant, 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D MonSat. Signature steak, seafood and Italian specialties reign at this dinner-only destination. Catering offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 8314141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo. com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Frankie & Johnny’s 321 Arabella St., 243-1234, FrankieAndJohnnys.net. L, D daily. Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kid-friendly with a game room to boot. $$
West End––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Landry’s Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, LandrysSeafood.com. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$
Steakhouse
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Besh Steak Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans.com. D
H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this Mr. John’s offshoot overlooking Lafayette Square, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$
H La Boca 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 5258205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$ Morton’s The Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons. com/NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$
Garden District––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mr. John’s Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Friday. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. $$$$$
H Doris Metropolitan 620 Charters St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Innovative, genre-busting steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak 215 Bourbon
Amici’s Fires Up a New Lunch Menu Amici Ristorante & Bar, 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, AmiciNola.com Amici, the Italian restaurant and bar on Magazine Street in the Garden District has a new lunch menu that includes small plates, appetizers, paninis, salads and entrées. It also includes the restaurant’s signature coal-fired pizza. While the rest of Italy perfected its version of the Italian staple with wood-fired ovens, wood was too precious to burn in Sicily. Instead Sicilians used coal. Fortunately, a coal-fired oven cooks meats as well as pizza fast, charring on the outside and perfectly cooking on the inside. – M.C.
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St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak. com. L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails to accompany classic steakhouse fare as well as inspired dishes like the Gouté 33: horseradish-crusted bone marrow and deviled eggs with crab ravigote and smoked trout. Reservations accepted. $$$ Morton’s, The Steakhouse The Shops at Canal Place, 365 Canal St., 566-0221, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Quintessential Chicago steakhouse serves up top-quality slabs of meat along with jumbo seafood. Clubhouse atmosphere makes this chophouse a favorite of Saints players and business-people alike. $$$$$
Metairie––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Ruth’s Chris Steak House 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Crescent City Steaks 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D daily. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$
H Milkfish 125 N. Carrollton Ave., 2674199, MilkfishNola.com. L, D Thu-Tue. Filipino cuisine like adobo and lumpia is served, further expanding dining opportunities. $$
Vegan/Vegetarian
Byblos Multiple Locations, ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$
Lower Garden District––––––––––––– H The Green Fork 1400 Prytania St., 267-7672, GreenForkNola.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarian-friendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$
World
Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Booty’s Street Food 800 Louisa St., 266-2887, BootysNola.com. B, L, D daily. Street food culled from countries around the globe is the muse of this creative establishment, where papadum from India resides confidently alongside Peruvian ceviche. $$ The Green Goddess 307 Exchange Place, 301-3347, GreenGoddessRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. One of the most imaginative local restaurants. The menu is constantly changing, and chef Paul Artigues always has ample vegetarian options. Combine all of that with a fantastic selection of drinks, wine and beer, and it’s the total (albeit small) package. $$
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Lüke 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef John Besh and executive
chef Matt Regan serve Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, housemade patés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Palace Café 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Dickie Brennan-owned brasserie with French-style sidewalk seating and house-created specialties of chef Darrin Nesbit. Favorites here include crabmeat cheesecake, turtle soup, the Werlein salad with fried Louisiana oysters and pork “debris” studded Palace potato pie. $$$$$
Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––– H Mona’s Café 504 Frenchmen St., 949-4115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bayona 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ El Gato Negro 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$
Kenner––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Fiesta Latina 1924 Airline Drive, 4682384, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$
Lakewood–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mizado 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd., 885-5555, MizadoCocina.com. L daily, D Mon-Sat. Sleek restaurant offers modern Mexican cuisine featuring pan-Latin flavors and influences. Small batch tequila and a ceviche bar make it a party. $$
Lakeview––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mondo 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633, MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$
METAIRIE––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Vega Tapas Café, 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D MonSat. Fun, eclectic small plates destination offers creative fare keeps guests coming back with frequent regionally inspired specialty menus served with humor and whimsy. $$
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Juan’s Flying Burrito 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, JuansFlyingBurrito. com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $
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DINING GUIDE Lola’s 3312 Esplanade Ave., 488-6946, LolasNewOrleans.com. D daily. Garlicky Spanish dishes and great paella make this artsy boîte a hipster destination. $$$
and her more casual side shine at this ingredient-driven small plates hotspot that, while elegant, is more fun than formal. $$$
H Mona’s Café 3901 Banks St., 482-
Jamila’s Mediterranean Tunisian Cuisine 7808 Maple St., 866-4366. D TueSun. Intimate and exotic bistro serving Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The Grilled Merguez is a Jazz Fest favorite and vegetarian options are offered. $$
7743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $
H Taqueria Guerrero 208 N. Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. $
Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $
H Mona’s Café 4126 Magazine St., 894-
894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$
9800; 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 861-8174. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $
H Irish House 1432 St. Charles Ave.,
H Panchita’s 1434 S. Carrollton Ave.,
595-6755, TheIrishHouseNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Irish pub dishes such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips are featured here, as well as creative cocktails like Irish iced coffee. Check the schedule of events for live music. $$
281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budgetfriendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Café Abyssinia 3511 Magazine St.,
H Ivy 5015 Magazine St., 899-1330. D Mon-Sat. James Beard Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick lets her hair down
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H Patois 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered
through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$
Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Blue Dot Donuts 5236 Tchoupitoulas
Specialty Foods
St., 941-7675, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.
CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– Calcasieu 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 5882188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For gatherings both large and small, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.
French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Antoine’s Annex 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available.
Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Sucré 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.
Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Blue Dot Donuts 4301 Canal St., 2184866, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.
Blue Frog Chocolates 5707 Magazine St., 269-5707, BlueFrogChocolates.com. Open daily, closed Sundays in summer. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this a great place for gifts. St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, StJamesCheese. com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday. Sucré 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available. n
If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Morgan Packard at Morgan@MyNewOrleans.com.
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Royal Sonesta Christmas Arcades
Food, Family & Holiday Fun
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winkling lights and Christmas carols greet the holiday season across New Orleans, and the chill in the air tells us it’s time for winter coats and hot cocoa. New Orleans is an exciting place to be during the holiday season as local restaurants roll out winter and Reveillon menus, and local shops put out their winter merchandise while rolling out seasonal sales. Shopping and dining are two of the most popular family pastimes during December, and there’s plenty of holiday entertainment this month to provide fun for the whole family. From your favorite fried seafood poor boy to a traditional and formal four-course meal, dining options abound across the city. Make your December dinner plans and finish your holiday shopping with the following local businesses happy to be celebrating alongside you.
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Holiday Dining A restaurant as revered as Arnaud’s has an original way of doing things. Recognizing the magnetism of Classic Creole Cuisine, Arnaud’s serves the true classics with something on the menu to appeal to all. Open for 96 years, Arnaud’s continues to carry on the traditions that make the restaurant unique and like no other. Holidays are a time when families and friends gather for leisurely meals and enjoy the spirit of New Orleans. The proprietary Casbarian family makes certain that guests are in for a seasonal treat. Guests can expect that Arnaud’s magnificent public dining rooms, 13 private dining rooms and classic bars are beautifully ornamented with holiday decorations. Not only will the restaurant be dressed for the season, but Arnaud’s offers a special Holiday Reveillon Menu. Arnaud’s will open for lunch from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. from Dec. 12-24 (excluding Saturdays), and they will be open from 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. on Christmas Eve. Special holiday cocktails such as Dickens’ Toddy, Hot Buttered Rum and Tom and Jerrys will be featured at the French 75 Bar. With critically acclaimed food, ambiance and service, Arnaud’s ensures a memorable and authentic holiday dining experience. For more information or to make reservations, call 504-523-5433 or visit ArnaudsRestaurant.com. Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad thai, sushi, General Tso’s Chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visitors alike. Visitors can look forward to the addition of sharable small plates to the menu in the near future. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. Salt & Pepper Shrimp and Ahi Tuna Seared are a couple of Hoshun’s seafood specialties, while Butter Pepper Mignon offers a meatier possibility. For menu and information, visit HoshunRestaurant. com or call 504-302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting 25-70 people. Bells will be ringing this holiday season at Dickie Brennan’s Tableau. Located in the heart of the French Quarter on picturesque Jackson Square, Tableau offers complimentary jingle bells to all lunch guests throughout the holidays. Between the fantastic food and the festive atmosphere of Jackson Square, Tableau is a must-visit dining destination this season. The culinary team revisits classic New Orleans cooking with a combination of European refinement and rustic simplicity. Using the finest local ingredients, chef Ben Thibodeaux updates classic New Orleans dishes, adjusting them ever-so-slightly to
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make them signature items at Tableau. One example is his Oysters en Brochette, Gulf oysters broiled on rosemary skewers with a roasted garlic buerre blanc. From a sprawling balcony with views of Jackson Square, to the intimate courtyard and main dining room with an open kitchen view, the ambience at Tableau is unparalleled. Run by Dickie Brennan and sister, Lauren Brennan Brower of the famed New Orleans restaurant family, with their partner Steve Pettus, Tableau serves lunch and dinner daily, and brunch Sunday, as well as cocktail service and small plates in their second floor Drawing Room bar. Visit TableauFrenchQuarter.com.
Antoine's Restaurant
Five Happiness, New Orleans’s award-winning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a newly renovated sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey roasted pecans, General’s Chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests. The well-known and affordable Imperial Room is available at Five Happiness for private parties, receptions or other functions and holds 50-150 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sitdown dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices ranging from $20-$45 per person. For those not wanting to cook during the holidays, Five
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Happiness happily serves lunch and dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. For more information, call 504482-3935 or visit FiveHappiness.com. Celebrate the season with Deanie’s Seafood, a local favorite with two restaurant locations, a seafood market and online market offering fresh Louisiana seafood and Deanie’s prepared items.
Bring the kids to Deanie’s in the French Quarter, 841 Iberville St., to enjoy breakfast with Santa during the Vince Vance Kids Holiday Sing-Along & Dance Party, an interactive holiday celebration for the kids that’s sure to spread Christmas cheer. Offered over two weekends in December, this special holiday program will delight the little ones. The restaurant’s private dining rooms, festive holiday decorations and whimsical window displays also make it a prime destination for celebrating the holidays in the French Quarter. Deanie’s original Bucktown location, 1713 Lake Ave. in Metairie, offers the same great food with extra local flavor, plus a quaint neighborhood dining room to enjoy barbeque shrimp, oyster Deanie's BBQ Shrimp poor boys or a fried seafood platter. You can also enjoy Deanie’s home-cooked flavor during your holiday gathering with their Holiday Take-Home menu, available for Thanksgiving and Christmas. For more on Deanie’s, visit Deanies.com. For more than 100 years, Parkway Bakery and Tavern has been a staple provider of delicious, locally produced foods, and today Parkway is known as the go-to place for
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Q&C Hotel/Bar signature cocktail: The Crescent Club
Q&C Hotel/Bar
New Orleans’ signature sandwich: the poor boy. Locally owned since 1911, Parkway has survived major floods and economic shifts, including the Great Depression. This holiday season, make it a yearly tradition to dine with friends and family at one of New Orleans’ most famous and historical sandwich shops. With more than 25 different poor boys, ranging from seafood, sausage, turkey and alligator, to their famous slow-cooked roast beef and the original french fry poor boy, there’s a sandwich for any appetite. Situated at the corner of Hagan & Toulouse in Mid-City, right on Bayou St. John, Parkway’s poor boys and ambiance create a dining experience unlike any other. Decorated with memorabilia from Parkway’s early days, the historical neighborhood atmosphere is great for reminiscing with friends and family. Parkway is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, and closed on Tuesdays. For more information, visit ParkwayPoorboys.com. Broussard’s will kick off the celebration of its 95th birthday on New Year’s Eve. The “95 Years Young” celebration will feature a traditional Reveillon menu at $50 and a special one-time-only, five-course 2014 New Year’s Eve Degustation menu at $95, with an optional $55, fivecourse premium wine pairing. “We will also be offering Champagne Luis Roederer’s Tete de Cuvee, ‘Cristal’, at $75 per glass and $375 per bottle throughout the month of December, and Roederer Estate’s Tete de Cuvee, ‘L’Ermitage’ at $15 per glass and $75 per bottle throughout the month,” says Chris Ycaza, General 102
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Manager. Broussard’s will host a live Jazz Trio on New Year’s Eve and feature traditional seasonal cocktails from the Empire Bar – the Bishop, Tom and Jerry, and à la minute Egg Noggs, hearkening back to a century ago – provided by head bartender Paul Gustings. For more information, visit Broussards.com or call 504581-3866 to make reservations. Commander’s Palace is known to both locals and visitors as a place to enjoy great food and atmosphere in one of New Orleans’s most beautiful and historical neighborhoods. With its famous jazz brunch, guests are treated to lively jazz music in a beautiful setting. Complimentary walking maps of the Garden District include historical houses and destinations, complete with informative blurbs on each one. What better way to burn off the calories of an unforgettable meal than with a stroll around the picturesque Garden District? Or, stop by Commander’s early for a map, and enjoy a stroll before sitting down to the Chef’s Tasting Menu created by James Beard Award-winning Chef Tory McPhail. It’s a must to peruse the Grand Award-winning wine list by “Wine Guy” Dan Davis. Commander’s Palace – it’s what living in New Orleans is all about. For more information and to make reservations, call 504-899-8221 or visit CommandersPalace.com. When it comes to dining in the holiday season, nothing tastes sweeter in the cold winter months than a delectable,
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seasonal dessert. Share good times with friends and family at Copeland’s of New Orleans and Cheesecake Bistro this month and try one of their chef-inspired desserts such as the Red Velvet Cheesecake or the White Chocolate Bread Pudding. Copeland’s ships America’s Best Cheesecake nationwide! Plan your family’s holiday meals now, and order online at CopelandsOfNewOrleans.com or CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. Ship their signature creamy style cheesecakes with a buttery pecan crust as gifts to family and friends wherever they are. Enjoy Red Velvet, Cookies & Cream, Turtle, Black and White Tuxedo, and more. You may also give the gift that keeps giving – receive a $25 Gift Card for free when you purchase $100 in gift cards. Visit Copeland’s restaurants online and like them on Facebook for more info and to receive weekly specials. For a uniquely Creole holiday experience, visit The Court of Two Sisters at historic 613 Rue Royale in the French Quarter. In true Creole fashion, this award-winning restaurant will uphold the tradition of the Creole Reveillon holiday meal. This year’s famous Reveillon menu at The Court of Two Sisters begins with Turtle Soup Au Sherry, followed by Crab Cakes with Creole MustardVinaigrette. Entrée choices include Duck Leg Confit served with candied sweet potatoes and pecan rice pilaf, Airline Breast of Chicken roasted with Brabant potatoes and winter vegetables, and Gulf Fish with petite
peas, Brabant potatoes, chopped bacon, sliced mushrooms and sautéed shrimp. The menu concludes on a sweet note with a delicious Rum Cake. Coffee and tea are included. The menu runs Dec. 1-24 for only $45 per person. Return to The Court of Two Sisters on New Year’s Eve and ring in the New Year with a spectacular multi-course meal. Call 504-522-7261 or visit CourtofTwoSisters.com for reservations. A perfect December day in the French Quarter includes unique, boutique shopping, cool weather, holiday cheer and music at every turn. Wander and shop the French Quarter this holiday season and enjoy a festive lunch break at award-winning chef Susan Spicer’s restaurant, Bayona. Evening dinners at Bayona are also a great way to begin a night out to the Saenger, Civic and Joy theaters or to any number of holiday shows, events and galas. To arrive at Bayona for a festive seasonal dinner is a journey back to another era. The romantic 200-year-old Creole cottage provides the perfect setting for dining on the nationally renowned cuisine of Chef Susan Spicer. The James Beard Foundation, Zagat and multiple publications have praised Bayona’s beautifully executed dishes over the past 24 years. For menus, reservations and additional information, visit Bayona.com or call 504-525-4455. Restaurant cookbooks and gift cards make great holiday gifts! Chef Andrea Apuzzo is proud to announce the 30th
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anniversary of Andrea’s Restaurant on Jan. 20. As a way of celebrating with restaurant guests, Andrea’s prices will be rolled back to where they were 30 years ago during the anniversary week. Over the last year, diners at Andrea’s have enjoyed the addition of a wood-burning oven and rotisserie. Andrea’s serves Lamb, Beef, Pork, Quail and Duckling on the rotisserie fresh daily. Additionally, he’s serving up classic homemade pizzas baked in the custom, gourmet wood-burning oven. This year, Andrea’s continues to expand the restaurant’s offerings with a newly renovated banquet and private dining room. As known to many, Andrea has nearly 50 years of culinary experience, having worked all around the world before settling in New Orleans to build his life-long dream. Visit Andrea’s and experience the latest flavors being added to his revered menu. Additionally, Chef Andrea supplies his restaurant with a number of wines from his own vineyard in Ana Capri. For more information and reservations, call 504-8348583 or visit AndreasRestaurant.com. Celebrate the holiday season this December within the historical walls of the oldest familyrun restaurant in the country, Antoine’s Restaurant. This charming, acclaimed and regal French-Creole restaurant will celebrate 175 years of French Quarter service throughout 2015 with special events and menus. This month, visit Antoine’s for a special holiday brunch. The festive $32.00 jazz brunch includes a complimentary mimosa and your choice of appetizer, entrée and dessert. A special guest will be greeting brunch goers and their families on certain days – Santa Claus will be on hand to greet guests Dec. 7, 14 and 21.The three-course brunch is available for groups of 15 or less and is exclusive of tax, gratuity and additional alcohol. With the exception of a few dates, Antoine’s will feature its traditional Reveillon dinner menu throughout December, featuring Crayfish Cardinal or Alligator Soup, a Noel Salad, your choice of entrée (Soft Shell Creole or Puppy Drum Grill) and a decadent dessert of Eggnog Bread Pudding with Praline Rum Sauce. For more info and to make reservations, visit Antoines.com or call 504-581-4422.
as the popular Austin’s Louisiana Creole Crab Salad and Oyster Fitzgerald, as well as the finest aged USDA steaks and savory Creole-Italian entrees of seafood, veal, duck and pork. Austin’s is located at 5101 W. Esplanade Ave. in Metairie. For more information or to make reservations, call 504888-5533. Visit Austin’s online at AustinsNO.com. Private party rooms are available for luncheons, banquets and rehearsal dinners. For more casual fare, McIntyre also oversees Mr. Ed’s Seafood & Italian Restaurant, Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House and Cheeseburger Eddie’s. This holiday season, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink®. Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco & the Blues with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate and the Bayou Club. While you are there, ask about the new Hand Grenade® Martini!
For a decade, Austin’s Restaurant has been known as a Metairie hot-spot for steak, seafood and the Creole-Italian creations of Restaurateur Ed McIntyre and his esteemed culinary staff. Garnering awards and accolades from critics and readers alike, readers of New Orleans Magazine named Austin’s “Favorite Steak House” and voted founder Ed McIntyre as a “New Orleanian of the Year” in 2010. Austin’s impressive menu includes signature appetizers, soups and salads such Delta Festival Ballet’s 33rd annual Nutcracker | Photo: Angela Sterling 104
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Tropical Isle® celebrates its 30th anniversary all year long. Join them for football at any location. Enjoy big screen TV’s at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit TropicalIsle.com. For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Ave., which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass. For sample menus and wine lists, visit OrleansGrapevine.com. Celebrate the holiday season at Restaurant R’evolution. Named by The Times-Picayune as one of the top 10 restaurants in New Orleans, this award-winning culinary haven located inside the iconic Royal Sonesta New Orleans will be decking the halls this holiday season. Enjoy expanded hours including breakfast, lunch and dinner daily through the end of the year. Restaurant R’evolution will be serving up classic holiday favorites that will leave you and yours with lasting holiday memories for years to come. With six unique dining rooms each seating 10 to 40 guests, your holiday office party or special private dining experience at R’evolution will tease your palate and please your guests in a distinctly New Orleans fashion. To book your group of 15 or more contact Courtney Ward at cward@sonesta.com. Restaurant R’evolution celebrates the season with a special Réveillon menu throughout the month of
December and offers a Christmas Day Brunch with all the trimmings that make it a true local holiday tradition. For details, menus and reservations visit RevolutionNola.com. Nothing says the holidays like wine, spirits, gifts and of course, friends and family! Martin Wine Cellar takes pride in being a local, family-owned business that, since 1946, has made gift giving easy with a variety of pre-wrapped wine and food gifts. With a gift card, your loved ones can choose from a terrific selection of wines or single malt scotches, small batch barrel Bourbons, ports and Champagnes. Whether selecting a gift basket, choosing a bottle of wine or planning a party, Martin Wine Cellar staff is knowledgeable, friendly and here to help you celebrate this festive time of year. In addition to sales, Martin Wine Cellar provides fullservice custom catering for events large and small. With seasonal menus, quality ingredients and professional staff, they make every event a celebration. Services include customized menus, wine lists, full bar, servers, bartenders, glassware, equipment rental and delivery. View their menu online (MartinWine.com) or call 504-896-7350 to speak with their Director of Catering.
Family Fun Delta Festival Ballet’s own Laura Gilbreath Tisserand and dance partner and husband, Jerome Tisserand, both principal dancers with the Pacific Northwest Ballet,
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perform as guest artists in Delta Festival Ballet’s 33rd annual Nutcracker. Ms. Tisserand, an alumna of the Giacobbe Academy of Dance, performed in Delta Festival Ballet and New Orleans Youth Ballet productions before joining the Pacific Northwest Ballet. Acclaimed by critics and fans, she brings glamour and a stellar performance to the New Orleans stage. Artistic Directors Joseph Giacobbe and Maria Giacobbe are proud to welcome her home. Delta’s Nutcracker, accompanied by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, is a lavish professional production with a cast of 130 dancers, 175 beautiful costumes, elaborate sets and superb dancing by the company’s professional artists. Performances take place Dec. 19 at 7 p.m. and Dec. 20 and 21 at 2 p.m. at Tulane’s Dixon Hall. Call 504-888-0931 for ticket information or purchase online at DeltaFestivalBallet.com. For 5,000 years, divine culture flourished in the land of China. Humanity’s treasure was nearly lost, but through breathtaking music and dance, Shen Yun Performing Arts is bringing back this glorious culture. Through the universal language of music and dance, Shen Yun weaves a wondrous tapestry of heavenly realms, ancient legends and modern heroic tales, taking you on a journey through 5,000 years of Chinese culture. Its stunning beauty and tremendous energy leave audiences uplifted and inspired. A Shen Yun performance features the world’s foremost classically trained dancers, a unique orchestra blending East and West, and dazzling animated backdrops – together creating one spectacular performance. Shen Yun will return to New Orleans on Jan. 30-31. For more information, visit ShenYun.com. 106
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Make your holidays Grand. For more than 165 years, The Grand Hotel Marriott Resort, Golf Club & Spa has been known throughout the South as “The Queen of Southern Resorts,” and it never looks better than during the holidays. From massive live oaks covered in lights to the giant gingerbread replica of the resort, come take a holiday escape to the Grand Hotel in Point Clear, Ala. From reindeer tuck-ins to shopping in Fairhope, to family bonfires to spectacular meals, Grand holidays are an easy drive on Interstate 10. Breakfast with Santa on December Saturdays. Escape holiday stress in our award-winning spa. The Grand Hotel has been honored recently as a top resort by Condé NastTraveler, Successful Meetings and ConventionSouth. The Grand boasts two Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail courses, a 20,000-square-foot European-style spa, indoor and outdoor feature pools and tennis. To play your holiday brighter, visit GrandHotelMarriott. com or call 251-928-9201. Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans (PRC) presents its 39th annual Holiday Home Tour. This annual tradition is on Saturday, Dec. 13 and Sunday, Dec. 14 and features seven Garden District homes and a bonus house open for tour-goers to enjoy history and architecture, accompanied by the tunes of talented New Orleans musicians. The tour also includes access to an expansive holiday boutique located at tour headquarters, Trinity Episcopal Church, and featuring dozens of local artists, craftsmen and retailers, as well as regional cuisine. PRC celebrates 40 years of promoting the preservation, restoration and revitalization of New Orleans’s historic architecture and neighborhoods. Founded in 1974, PRC is a nonprofit organization that has restored nearly 1,500
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properties citywide and has assisted countless individuals with their own renovation efforts through its outreach and advocacy programs. PRC provides resources and education to convey the economic, cultural and aesthetic importance of historic preservation in New Orleans and throughout the world. For more information about PRC and its revitalization efforts, call 504-581-7032 or visit prcno.org. Connect with PRC on Facebook, Twitter (@PRCNO), Instagram, Flickr and Pinterest. Locals know there’s no better way to experience the power and history of the mighty Mississippi River than with a trip aboard the last remaining authentic steamboat on the river. Ninth in a line of steamboats dating back to the 1880s, the Steamboat Natchez provides guests with a magnificent, one-of-a-kind view of New Orleans and an unparalleled atmosphere of New Orleans tradition, food, music and romance. Step aboard and listen to the calls of the Steam Calliope as you depart from the heart of the French Quarter. Enjoy a sunset on the river during the Dinner Jazz Cruise. Tap your toes to the Grammy-winning Dukes of Dixieland Jazz band as you feast on a delicious buffet, while considering craft beers, a wine list and dazzling specialty drinks. Holiday Events for Christmas Eve and the New Year’s Eve Dinner Dance Gala are extremely popular with locals as well as visitors. Private rooms are available for events and wedding parties, and menus can be personalized to your event. Sail away with the Steamboat Natchez! Visit the steamboat online and make reservations at SteamboatNatchez.com. Spanish Sojourns: Robert Henri and the Spirit of Spain is on view at the Mississippi Museum of Art in Jackson, Miss., through Jan. 4. It is the latest presentation of The Annie Laurie Swaim Hearin Memorial Exhibition Series, exploring the Spanish paintings of Henri, who played a pivotal role in the history of American art. His Spanish portraits feature singers, dancers, musicians, bullfighters and gypsies. Accompanying exhibitions include Robert Henri and Spain, Face to Face, presenting works by Henri and his predecessors – El Greco, Ribera, Manet, Cassatt and Sargent; and the 2014 Mississippi Invitational, showcasing work by contemporary Mississippi artists. Spanish Sojourns: Robert Henri and the Spirit of Spain is organized by the Telfair Museums, Savannah, Ga. This exhibition is made possible through the generous support of the Mr. and Mrs. Raymond J. Horowitz Foundation for the Arts, Terra Foundation for American Art, and the National Endowment for the Arts. Local presentation of these exhibitions is made possible through the Robert M. Hearin Support Foundation. Visit MSMuseumArt.org or call 601-960-1515. The Q&C Hotel/Bar is both a legacy and a landmark completely renewed from the bones on up. Flanking both the French Quarter and the Warehouse District on Camp Street, the renovated 12-story is “not your Granddad’s hotel;” the décor is cool and contemporary with a nod to classic details. The bar, using antique glassware and vintage coasters, serves craft cocktails and local beer myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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with small plates, pizza and is currently featuring a signature cocktail, the Crescent Club, a well-balanced tipple of Old New Orleans Rum, Creole bitters, maple, vanilla, orange, lemon and egg white. Happy Hour runs seven days a week from 4 to 6:30 p.m. and currently features $3 beers and $5 select wines. The new Q&C Hotel/Bar is located at 344 Camp St. in downtown New Orleans. For reservations and information, visit QandC. com or call 504-587-9700. Find the Hotel/ Bar on Facebook at Facebook.com/QCHotel. This holiday season, celebrate with friends and family in beautiful Bayou Lafourche, a several-time recipient of the Southeast Tourism Society Top 20 Event designation. Feast away at the 12th Annual Cracklin’ Cookoff in Cut Off on Saturday, Dec. 6, and enjoy cracklin’s, craft booths, a car show, music and dancing. On Sunday, Dec. 7, the Lockport Christmas Parade will celebrate the season with Papa Noel and a special tree lighting. Santa will also make an appearance the same day at the Thibodaux Christmas Fest throughout downtown Thibodaux.
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French Quarter Phantomes
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Get ready for Mardi Gras 2015! Mardi Gras on Bayou Lafourche features more than 15 parades, carnival balls, tableaus and parties that bring thousands to this Southeast Louisiana area. Family-oriented festivities abound in Lafourche communities beginning three weekends prior to Fat Tuesday (Feb. 17), as well as on the day itself. In Cajun tradition, families gather in their front yards along the parade routes to barbecue, boil seafood, eat, socialize and enjoy the parades. Find endless events and attractions at VisitLafourche. com and experience all Lafourche has to offer. Named the Discovery Channel’s “Official Best of Louisiana 2014,” French Quarter Phantoms tours are the perfect way to enjoy a winter evening in the Quarter for skeptics and believers alike. Join French Quarter Phantoms Master Story Tellers for a lot of great laughs and some disturbing chills up your spine! True tales of hauntings and horror – you’ll be surprised to hear what some “nice” ladies and gentlemen were capable of doing! Family-friendly fun, Ghost & Vampire tours begin at 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. nightly. Don’t miss their tour of St. Louis #1 Cemetery. Tours begin at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m., Monday-Saturday, and at 10 a.m. on Sundays. Listed on the National Register of Historic places, St. Louis #1 is eerily beautiful, even in the daytime. The tour includes details of burial customs and practices and a visit to the final resting place of the
infamous Voodoo Priestess Marie Laveau. Online discounts are available at FrenchQuarterPhantoms. com. For more information, call 504-666-8300. Founded in 1929, Metairie Park Country Day School believes that today’s world demands more than a traditional education; it demands the values and practices that have made Country Day unique since its inception. An innovative, hands-on approach teaches Pre-K through grade 12 students how to think creatively and independently as they tackle an expansive, rigorous curriculum. High academic standards and expectations of personal accountability are sustained by a nurturing community, a low student-to-teacher ratio, robust athletics and outstanding creative arts programs. The Country Day faculty focus on individual achievement through depth of inquiry rather than mere recitation of facts, and ensure that every child’s educational experience is exceptional. The successes of the school's graduates in college and beyond are testimony to the curiosity, involvement and creativity engendered by the Country Day philosophy and community. Visit an Admission Open House or email admissions@ mpcds.com for a private tour Mondays-Fridays. Open House for K-5 is Jan. 15, and Grades 6-12 Open House is Jan. 22. Visit mpcds.com for more information. •
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1. Auraluz 4408 Shores Drive, Metairie (504) 888-3313 | ShopAuraluz.com TEA FORTE... the perfect gift for the holidays. Sourced from the world's finest tea gardens, every cup is a taste experience and a gift of joy and relaxation. Rum Raisin Biscotti and Spiced Ginger Plum are a few of the newest blends available at AURALUZ.
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2. Boudreaux’s Jewelers 701 Metairie Road, Metairie (504) 831-2602 4550 Highway 22, Mandeville (985) 626-1666 7280 Corporate Blvd., Baton Rouge (225) 928-6868 BoudreauxsJewelers.com
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Celebrating 80 years, Boudreaux’s Jewelers proudly represents many quality watch and jewelry designers, as well as providing custom-designed and manufactured creations. Our fine craftsmen and professional staff can help you find the precious gift that will find its way through generations.
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3. Cristy Cali (504) 407-5041 CristyCali.com Have a little faith, Saints Fans. Show off your spirit with Cristy Cali's Couture Charms, compatible with major brands such as Pandora. Create your own bracelet at Adler's or find a retailer near you at CristyCali.com.
4. Bra Genie Mandeville 2881 Highway 190, Mandeville (985) 951-8638 | TheBraGenie.com Bra shop with confidence and your own personal fitter, as well as a Bra Fit Guarantee. Sizes 28-52 band and A-K cups allow for the perfect fit for women of all shapes and sizes. Gift Cards available.
5. Coin-Op Antiques CoinOpAntiques.com These fabulous museum-quality antique slot machines are strictly reserved for those who might think they have everything. They date from the 1930s and 40’s from manufacturers like Mills, Jennings, and Watling. They are completely original and come with a 1-year parts and labor warranty.
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6. Earthsavers 5501 Magazine St.| (504) 899-8555 3301 Veterans Blvd., Ste. 140 (504) 835-0225 3414 US Highway 190 | (985) 674-1133 Earthsaversonline.com Winter Essentials Make great Holiday Gifts! Barefoot Dreams throws, robes and wraps, Uggs Classics and seasonal styles available at all Earthsavers locations: Uptown, Lakeside and Mandeville.
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7. Edible Arrangements 1650 Gretna Blvd., Suite 5, Harvey (504) 367-7798 1821 Rousseau St., New Orleans (504) 218-5848 Our Christmas holiday collection is filled with bright & beautiful gifts for everyone on your list. Choose the perfect gift from dozens of festive winter fruit bouquets with all your favorite holiday pineapple shapes, gourmet chocolate & more. Add a touch of delicious elegance to your holiday celebrations with our Elegance Platters filled with fresh strawberries covered in gourmet chocolate, beautifully arranged on a keepsake platter.
8. Judy at the Rink 2727 Prytania St. (504) 891-7018
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Judy has a large selection of holiday gift items. Don't let the holidays slow you down. Rush to Judy for great gifts and great prices. Come to Judy at the Rink for all of your holiday gifts, entertaining and parties. Check them out on Facebook.
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9. FroYo Café and Sweets Order Ahead: (228) 234-4649 819(C) Canal St.
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The new King Cake CroissantTM is available for purchase for your event, conference, party or as a gift. There are two sizes available: 1.2 oz or 2.2 oz. FroYo Café and Sweets is the only place in New Orleans you can grab one of these awesome treats.
10. Fleur D'Orleans 3701A Magazine St. | (504) 899-5585 818 Chartres St. | (504) 475-5254 FleurDOrleans.com Let the designers at Fleur d' Orleans make your holiday season bright with gifts for all the women on your list: Hand cut geometric crystal pendant and earrings, colored semi precious gems or a sterling silver piece inspired by the architectural details in New Orleans.
11. The Historic New Orleans Collection
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533 Royal St. (504) 523-4662 hnoc.org/shop Handcrafted in the Mississippi Gulf Coast by Jennifer’s Oyster Trees, these charming pieces look great all year round. Available in five sizes, 10"–25". $95–$275. Increased shipping rates apply.
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12. Louisiana Custom Closets New Orleans: (504) 885-3188 Covington: (985) 871-0810 Baton Rouge: (225) 753-3001 LouisianaCustomClosets.com Louisiana Custom Closets represents the pinnacle of quality in storage solutions. Because they are the manufacturer, their professional design staff can create personalized spaces for you. Locally owned since 2003. Choose your style, choose your finish, and take your storage space from simply neat to simply fabulous.
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13. Mid-City Errands FIRETHORN BOOKS VonnyFoster.com Ronald Fisher’s hilarious novel about a boy who discovers himself and his neighborhood in 1959 after mysterious events land a friend in the hospital at Hotel Dieu. An entertaining read and great gift. Available at your favorite book shop, VonnyFoster.com, and Amazon.
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14. Mary's Kitchen and Bath 732 N. Rampart St. | (504) 529-4485 In addition to all of the culinary tools and gadgets for the foodie on your list, we now have a selection of gourmet and imported foods including oils, vinegars, spices, condiments, duck fat and truffles. They also feature Stonewall Kitchen specialty foods. Custom gift baskets are available.
15. M. Goldberg Clothier 502 Tchoupitoulas at Leontine Uptown Monday-Saturday, 10 am-6pm (504) 891-1119 Barbour’s high quality, durable and timeless style jackets are designed for layering and comfort that will last for many years. M. Goldberg offers the largest selection of men’s and women’s Barbour in the region, available in an assortment of styles and colors.
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16. French Quarter Fables Written and illustrated by Dalt Wonk Available at local bookstores and LunaPress.com Great fables never die. They're too much fun. Aesop said "Sour grapes!" in 600 B.C. We still say it. French Quarter Fables are fun and fascinating. You'll know these creatures and their dilemmas with 18 brief tales and beautiful full-colored illustrations. A perfect gift or treat. 110 pages, $25.
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17. Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie (504) 896-7350 | MartinWine.com Holiday Gift Basket: Simply Scrumptious ($49.99). Nothing says the holidays like wine, spirits, gifts, and of course, friends and family! We take pride in our local, family-owned business, and since 1946, it has been our mission to make gift giving easy. Whether it's selecting a gift basket, choosing a bottle of wine or planning your entire gathering, we are here to help you celebrate this festive time of year. So relax and enjoy! Happy Holidays from the Martin family to yours!
18. Saint Germain Shoes 333 Canal St., Ste. 208 (504) 522-1720 Saint Germain in Canal Place will be hosting its annual Fragments jewelry show Friday and Saturday, December 12th and 13th, 10-7 pm. The show will feature fine fashion jewelry by designers from all over the world, perfect for your holiday gifts or accessories for the holidays.
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19. Söpö 629 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 609-2429 | soponola.com
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Looking for unique gifts this holiday season? Head to Mid City and shop söpö, specializing in cool gifts, locally made goods, and hard to find women's clothing and accessories.
20. South Street Linen 5 South St., Portland, Maine (774) 234-7678 SouthStreetLinen.com
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The Everywhere Shirt from South Street Linen is 100% linen, made in Maine. Closes in the front with hidden snap tape. Notched hem so the back drops an inch lower than the front. A-line shape to flatter all. Price $239. Ships free.
21. St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St. (504) 899-4737 StJamesCheese.com The greatest gift for a food lover is one they can eat. St. James Cheese Company has artisanal cheeses and cured meats to suit every taste. With shipping available anywhere in the US, their gift collections and custom boxes are a welcome addition to any celebration. Open daily.
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505 Royal St. (504) 525-4855 | Wcjewelry.com Beautiful Diamond bracelets from the Wellington & Company Signature Collection. Bracelets ranging from 1.0 carats to 20.0 carats in platinum, white, yellow and rose gold.
23. Symmetry Jewelers 8138 Hampson St. (504) 861-9925 SymmetryJewelers.com The call came from the NCIS New Orleans. A special piece had to be created, and Symmetry was the place to make it. This large ornate locket with a hidden compartment in the clasp to hide a SIM card was featured on a November episode.
24. Studio P.O.V. ltd. 420 Huso St. (504) 865-8222 | Studio-pov-ltd.com
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For over 30 years, we have used our imagination and experience to produce heirloom furnishings that will enjoy centuries of appreciation. With a new name and a new location, Studio P.O.V. is set to continue its tradition as a respected decorative arts and conservation studio.
25. Trashy Diva 831 Chartres St. 2044 Magazine Street (504) 299-3939 | TrashyDiva.com Ring in the holiday with something extra special from Trashy Diva Lingerie! With velvet trim, fringed lace, and Swiss Dotted tulle, the glamorous Simone Perele Velvet Bra and Boyshort is sure to make the season one to remember!
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26. The Silver Collar The Silver Collar Pet Boutique 101 Metairie Road, Metairie located inside Metairie Small Animal Hospital | msah.com Laissez le bon temps rouler! For your cultured canine, the Eiffel Tower dog toy by Harry Barker is a must have with its durable cotton canvas and recycled filling. This eco-friendly toy is sure to be fun and fetching this holiday season.
27. Yvonne LaFleur St. Charles Ave. streetcar stop 299 8131 Hampson St. | (504) 866-9666 Yvonne LaFleur Signature Fragrance. Eau de Parfum Spray, Lotion, Bath Gel, Powder and Soy Candle. Cashmere and fur lined cape available grey, black, red, ivory and brown. Cashmere socks available in blue, red, grey and ivory. Cashmere robes available in black, red, ivory, burgundy, lavender, pink, gold and blue. 114
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Urgent Care & Emergency Medicine
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ome medical situations can’t wait until the next business day or a busy physician’s next available opening. In an emergency situation, having access to the right kind of care can make a world of difference. If an emergency does occur, area residents can feel confident that local health care providers and insurers will be there to assist in a pinch. Determine what health care options are available to you with the latest from these two regarded area resources in the areas of emergency coverage and mental health.
Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is committed to improving the health and lives of Louisianians. With Blue Cross, members have access to health and wellness programs that help them be as healthy as they can be. Blue Cross knows it can be tricky to figure out how to get the right care at the right time with the right type of doctor. That’s why they’re here to help: Blue Cross nurses can give members health coaching to get the care they need and be there for their families. After all, time spent feeling well is time well spent. Find out how Blue Cross helps members protect every day; log in and activate a member account at bcbsla.com to learn more about the services available and get tips and resources on staying healthy. 116
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River Oaks Hospital is the only freestanding psychiatric facility on the New Orleans south shore that has programming for ages 6 through adulthood. They currently offer a state-certified school to patients 6 through 12 and will soon offer the same program to all patients under 18 years. River Oaks currently has the only inpatient trauma and inpatient eating disorders program in the state. Access to more than eight psychiatrists gives River Oaks the ability to care for patients in their five separate inpatient programs and two options for day treatment programming. In an effort to help treat as much of the community as possible, River Oaks contracts with a variety of privately managed health care plans in addition to Tricare, VA and Medicare. •
A STUNNING COLLECTION OF 50 TRADITIONAL (AND SOME NON-TRADITIONAL) LOUISIANA RECIPES. AN ABSOLUTE MUST HAVE FOR YOUR KITCHEN, OR THE PERFECT GIFT FOR A LOUISIANA FOOD LOVER.
$16.95
TO ORDER VISIT LOUISIANACOOKBOOK.COM myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2014
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Hospital Buzz A
s the first year under the Affordable Care Act comes to a close, regional health care providers continue to make changes that encourage advancement, growth and better health outcomes for patients while adapting to new laws, regulations and standards. The latest medical news includes new clinical trials and therapies, celebrations and anniversaries, awards and accolades, powerful new technologies and helpful new resources for patients and their families. The accomplishments from area providers are plentiful this winter as they begin preparing for the new year ahead. Catch all of the buzz from 2014 among the following New Orleans-area medical leaders. For more than half a century, Tulane doctors have provided the best in health care and the latest in medical technology to the people of Louisiana. In addition to providing quality primary care, Tulane doctors are leaders in the diagnosis and treatment of complex illnesses, resulting in numerous advances in clinical outcomes and patient health. They practice medicine across a wide range of disciplines, from organ transplantation and cardiac surgery to neurosurgery and cancer treatment. Tulane doctors have access to leading-edge clinical trials and potentially life-saving new therapies. They demonstrate commitment to the community through various health care services and free educational outreach programs and health screenings. Find your Tulane doctor by calling 800-988-5800 or 504-988-5800 or visit TulaneDoctors.com. Farnsworth Dermatology, the private practice of Dr. Neil Farnsworth and Dr. Katy Wiltz, is celebrating its one-year anniversary. They are extremely proud to already have a strong reputation among patients and physicians for compassion, attention to detail and cost-conscious, effective care. 118
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Drs. Farnsworth and Wiltz specialize in the detection and treatment of skin cancers and precancerous lesions, as well as management of acute and chronic skin conditions such as psoriasis, rashes, warts, cysts, acne and rosacea. All conditions are evaluated with an eye toward the context of your overall health. Drs. Farnsworth and Wiltz offer botulinum toxin, injectable filler, and chemical peel treatments of wrinkles and other signs of aging at competitive rates, but they strongly believe that if a natural sign of aging does not bother you, then it should not bother anyone. Mention the practice's anniversary in the month of December and get 10 percent off any cosmetic service. West Jefferson Medical Center has evolved into the worldclass institution it is today, garnering accolades for patientcare excellence. Its recent awards include Get With The Guidelines® – Stroke Gold Plus Quality Achievement Award by the American Heart Association (AHA)/American Stroke Association for the treatment of stroke patients; Platinum Performance Achievement Award NCDR Action Registry Get With The Guidelines® by AHA (one of only 256 hospitals
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nationwide to receive this distinction two years in a row); only New Orleans area hospital based EMS to receive AHA’s Mission: Lifeline® EMS Silver Award for treating patients who suffer a severe heart attack known as a STEMI. Further, The West Jefferson Hospital Foundation is gearing up for its Moonlight, Martinis & More Fundraiser on March 21, including a special appearance by Dr. Jennifer Arnold of TLC’s “The Little Couple,” benefitting WJMC's Cancer Center. To learn more and help support the hospital’s mission, contact the Foundation at 504-349-2051. East Jefferson General Hospital (EJGH) is proud to introduce a powerful new solution for targeted biopsy of the prostate. The UroNav fusion biopsy system offers a cutting-edge option for many patients with elevated and/or rising PSA levels. Targeted MR/ultrasound biopsy is poised to become the new standard in prostate care, and EJGH is pleased to offer this powerful solution to its patients. UroNav fuses pre-biopsy MR images of the prostate with ultrasound-guided biopsy images in real time, for excellent delineation of the prostate and suspicious lesions. Benefits include more accurate biopsies; positive predictive values above 90 percent in recent studies; simultaneously displays registered MR and ultrasound images and the projected biopsy needle path; and post-biopsy review gives visualization and recording of target and biopsy core in multiple 2D and 3D views.
To schedule an appointment with a physician who uses UroNav, call HealthFinder at 456-5000. BreastCancer.org, the world’s leading online resource for breast health and breast cancer information and support, and the Center for Restorative Breast Surgery have announced a partnership supporting a shared mission to ensure all women access to the information needed to make informed decisions about their health when faced with a breast cancer diagnosis. Drs. Scott Sullivan and Frank DellaCroce, co-founders of the Center for Restorative Breast Surgery and St. Charles Surgical Hospital, the first and only hospital in the world dedicated to breast reconstruction for women facing breast cancer, have performed more than 5,000 breast reconstruction surgeries on women from all over the world. New content at Breastcancer.org will cover microsurgery techniques using a woman’s own tissue, such as the stacked DIEP and stacked GAP flaps and the body lift perforator flap surgeries, show new before and after breast reconstruction photos, and feature additional content covering: • surgery to match the remaining breast to the reconstructed breast • how to find a qualified plastic surgeon • paying for reconstruction • screening after reconstruction For these expanded resources and more, visit Breastcancer.org and BreastCenter.com. •
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TRY THIS
The Curtain Exchange Outlet Now in NOLA The Curtain Exchange of New Orleans, 3936 Magazine St., 897-2444 The original home of prêt-à-porter designermade curtains, The Curtain Exchange on Magazine Street is now also the home of the company’s outlet store. Discontinued lines from the company’s 10 stores will be on sale at 50 percent off at the Uptown location. The company offers ready-made curtains in high quality fabrics in a variety of sizes including long-length. Custom-made drapes and accessories are also available, along with a design service. The steady flow of new inventory will ensure fresh outlet bargains.
Party Cup Express Caters for Santa Party Cup Express, (800) 299-4332, PartyCupExpress.com Party Cup Express has new holiday designs for its cups and party accessories. Party Cup Express is the retail division of the Giacona Container Corporation, home of the Mardi Gras throw cup and provider of custom cups to multiple organizations such as zoos, stadiums, sports teams and amusement parks. Party Cup Express offers this custom service to consumers as well and it only takes two weeks and includes napkins, plates and more. – Mirella Cameran cheryl gerber photos
All I Want For Christmas A couple’s retreat becomes a seasonal ritual By Melanie Warner Spencer
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hinking about the myriad feasts, rituals and parties in the coming weeks is enough to send some of us running over the river and through the woods to escape. But what if there’s a way to relax so much before the madness that by the time it happens, you just sail serenely through it? This thought came to me one day as I was contemplating Christmas wrapping paper at Gordon’s. I had a vision right there in the gift-wrap aisle: A couple’s spa retreat. After coordinating a date and time with my significant other, Mark, I booked a three-hour session at the spa at the Ritz-Carlton. Our treatment would include a couple’s bath, $75, the “Deux Massage,” $145 each, plus dinner in the Spa Café. We arrived at the spa an hour prior to our treatments to relax in separate lounges. The facility also has sauna and steam rooms, as well as a whirlpool. We each were lead away by separate concierges, settled into our soft, fuzzy robes and chilled out with a glass of complimentary Champagne. About 50 minutes later, my massage therapist came by to ask what scent we’d prefer for our couple’s bath. I went with calming lavender and a few minutes later, Mark and I were reunited in a darkened, candle-lit, room. Soothing music played quietly in the background, the large whirlpool bath was strewn with rose petals, an ice bucket with chilled water rested to the side of the tub and the entire room was infused with Niven Morgan lavender mint. When the whirlpool jets stopped 20 minutes later, it was time to dry off, robe up and head into the massage room. We both were already in a deep state of relaxation, so over the next 50 minutes on the massage tables, I was kneaded into a stupor and Mark says he fell asleep more than once. Post-treatment, we hit the Spa Café, where we enjoyed one more glass of Champagne, along with the food we ordered upon arrival. I devoured perfectly cooked salmon on a bed of Caesar salad and Mark noshed on a trio of sliders. We chatted about the food, the fabulous pre-treatment bath and the service. On the way home, we both agreed the spa felt like its own little world and didn’t seem like it was attached to a busy hotel. We also agreed that a new ritual was born. Look out holidays; the Spencers’ are relaxed, rejuvenated and ready. Ritz-Carlton, 921 Canal St., 524-1331, RitzCarlton.com n
jeffery johnston photo
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MIRACLE ON I-10 By errol laborde
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HRISTMAS SEASON, 2010: Just past the Gramercy exit heading west along Interstate 10, the smoothness of my ride suddenly changed into horror as my car began shaking while emitting a loud vibrating noise. Worse yet, I was in the left lane. I knew I had to maneuver the limping vehicle across the right lane and onto the shoulder while other vehicles were racing past me. The car wobbled mercilessly as I steered it off the road while hoping that all oncoming drivers were alert to notice a suddenly slowed vehicle in their path. Within a few horrifying seconds I came to a stop and quickly got out of the car, not wanting to be a target for approaching vehicles that had eased a little too far to the right. A few inches too much could be fatal. I stood on the grass next to the shoulder and stared with amazement at how quickly the blown out right front tire had become shredded. My Crown Victoria is an excellent machine, except that the Ford company really scrimped when it provided the feeble factory jack and an inadequate wrench. Nether were tools that anyone would want to be using while working alone on the side of an interstate. Instinctively I began pushing numbers on my cell phone, though still somewhat dazed by an incident that within 30 seconds had transported me from listening to Christmas music while cruising along the highway to standing on the side of the road and hearing the thunder of each passing vehicle. Getting to a holiday staff lunch at Houmas House now seemed out of the question; survival was more of the issue. Instinctively I began pushing numbers on my cell phone somehow confusing 9-1-1 with 4-1-1 and then not having patience for the taped
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message at the state’s 5-1-1. Somewhere in the glove box was information about the insurance company’s roadside service system, but using that, I knew, would take hours, especially in such a remote location. And then there was the sky; an already gray day was turning darker; there would be rain soon. This was one of life’s “What to do?’ moments with the added danger of being in the line of a crash. Then I noticed ahead that a white truck pulling a trailer had stopped on the shoulder. At first I thought the truck was having trouble, too, but it started backing in my direction. I walked toward it. The truck stopped. Two men each dressed in work clothes, probably in their mid-30s, got out. One of them spoke what I now realize is the most beautiful phrase in the English language, “Do you need help?” “Yes,” I responded eagerly while trying not to sound too helpless. Then the man who had inquired turned to his companion and spoke the language’s greatest phrase in response to blowouts along a busy highway, “Get the jack.” Here were two men, not only able to help but who also had with them a proper jack and wrenches. Both were courteous and each spoke with a slight, but definite, southern drawl. One jacked up the car while the other loosened the lug nuts. One took off the damaged tire while the other positioned the spare in place. When I started to place the ruined tire in my trunk, one of the men, who had the advantage of wearing work gloves, insisted that he would do the job. While they worked I
had nothing to do but look through my wallet for tip money. Had I been carrying two $100 bills I would have gladly pulled them out. The best I could do was $20. When they were done I handed them each a bill. Both backed off. I insisted. They refused; I insisted again. They refused again. Then one said, “Merry Christmas,” and then added, “Use the money to get a new tire.” Both returned to their truck. I wished I would have known who the two men were. It happened so fast that I didn’t get their names. The only identity on their truck was for “Square D,” which an Internet search revealed is a line of electrical supplies. I knew nothing else. When they walked back to the truck I thought about the rescued villagers in the closing scene of an old “Lone Ranger” episode. They would watch the man on the white horse and his companion, Tonto, ride off into the sunset and then ask, “Who was that masked man?” I was a few minutes late, nevertheless I was able to make it to the lunch at Houmas House – though I kept thinking about the incident. Without wanting to be too dramatic what happened seemed to be damned near to a miracle. Had the blowout occurred as little as five seconds later, the men would have been well ahead and not seen me. It isn’t unusual for people to help each other along a highway, but in this case they came so quickly, carrying the right tools and there were two of them so that the job, in a dangerous situation, could be done quickly. Then to refuse a tip! For that moment at least, all was calm, all was bright. n ARTHUR NEAD ILLUSTRATION