New Orleans Magazine March 2013 by Renaissance Publishing

WYES Presents AARON NEVILLE: DOOWOP: MY TRUE STORY myneworleans.com

$4.95

On the web Head to MyNewOrleans.com to see an interview with Tim McNally, the writer of our travel cover story. Watch the video to learn more about the best bars and restaurants along the Gulf Coast. You will also find additional content about New Orleans’ favorite vacation spot in our online magazine Gulf Coast Wine + Dine. Have a question about the new website? Email all comments to Web Editor Haley Adams at haley@myneworleans.com.

March 2013 VOLUME 47 NUMBER 6 Editor Errol Laborde Managing Editor Morgan Packard Art Director Eric Gernhauser Associate Editors Haley Adams and

Sarah Ravits Contributing Editor Liz Scott Monaghan Food Editor Dale Curry Dining Editor Jay Forman Wine and Spirits Editor Tim McNally Restaurant Reporter Robert Peyton Home and Garden Editor Bonnie Warren Interns Elizabeth Heideman and Caroline Malouse

SALES MANAGER Shannon Smith Senior Account Executive Jonée Daigle Ferrand

Exclusively Online: Award-Winning Daily Blogs Mondays:

The Editor’s Room: Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde, three-time winner of the Alex Waller Award for print journalism, offers his take on the Big Easy, the state of Louisiana and the changing times. Named “Best Local Blog” by the Press Club of New Orleans. Tuesdays:

Account Executives Erica Northcott Adams,

Maegan O’Brien Sales Assistant Erin Maher Azar Web/Production Manager Staci Woodward McCarty Production Designers Jenny Dascenzo Hronek and

Sarah George Web Editor Haley Adams PRODUCTION INTERN Casey Hano Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne

Morgan Packard, managing editor for New Orleans Magazine, and Annie Drummond, whom MyNewOrleans.com stole from Ohio, tagteam weekly columns on the different ways to enjoy life our city.

Wednesdays:

President Alan Campell Executive VICE PRESIDENT/Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Executive Assistant Kristi Ferrante Distribution Manager Christian Coombs

WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511

After Hours: Nightlife savant and New Orleans Press Club award-winner Ian McNulty gives us the scoop on what to do when the sun goes down. You know, when he can get out of bed to write about it. Also... Nola Newbie: MyNewOrleans.com’s new web editor, Haley Adams, chronicles her adventures as a New Orleans resident. Thursdays:

Haute Plates: Our very own gastronome, Robert Peyton, offers the real dish on local dining. Also … Happy Hour: The yang to Mr. Peyton’s yin, Tim McNally, acclaimed wine judge and food writer, expounds on wine, cocktails and other draughts.

Executive Editor Beth Arroyo Utterback Managing Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Dascenzo Hronek

NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 Subscription Hotline:

(504) 828-1380 ext. 251 or fax: (504) 828-1385

Fridays:

Joie d’Eve: Editor Eve Kidd Crawford, who has won awards from the Press Club of New Orleans and the Society of Professional Journalists, writes about what it means to be a family in New Orleans.

Visit MyNewOrleans.com to see photographs and articles, even before they hit the newsstands. Enjoy our archived articles, leave us a comment or sign up for our newsletter.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Online at www.MyNewOrleans.com

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 8281380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2012 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

FEATURES 74 toast to the coast Fine dining, life along Florida Highway 30-A, a guide to fishing, adventures along Okaloosa Island and medical tips by Tim McNally and Brenda Maitland, Errol Laborde, John Felsher and Brobson Lutz M.D.

88 best new architecture Five blueprints to excellence by John P. Klingman

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 8 10 12 119 120

TOAST TO THE COAST PAGE

INSIDE “Waiting for John Paul” letters speaking out Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon JULIA STREET Questions and answers about our city Try This “A Saturday Scoot” STREETCAR “A Tradition to Dye For”

THE BEAT 18 MARQUEE Entertainment calendar 20 PERSONA John Patrick Shanley, playwright, director

BEST NEW ARCHITECTURE PAGE

and screenwriter

23 newsbeat “West Bank Wildlife Refuge Takes Shape” 24 Biz “Buying By the Beach: Is it time to buy your own place on the sand?”

28 HEALTHBEAT The latest news in health from New Orleans and beyond

29 newsbeat “Innovative Thinking On the Elements 30 Education “New Tests Ahead: Reaching for new standards”

32 newsbeat “Crescent City Farmers Market Founder Going National”

LOCAL COLOR 34 THE SCOOP “Hop To It: Mark your calendar for this month’s Easter happenings.”

38 music “Matt Lemmler’s ‘Ode to Joy’: Jazzing the Ninth Symphony”

39 Read & Spin A look at the latest CDs and books 42 CAST OF CHARACTERS “Portrait of Two Friends; Greg Raymond and Patrick Leblanc are thankful”

44 MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS “WiFi Weirdness” 46 Joie d’Eve “The Girliest Girl: Adventures in overscheduling”

48 CHRONICLES “Curtain Raisers: Impresarios put on the shows”

50 HOME “Charleston Style in Lakeview: Alan and Monda Vinturella’s home has the feel of a resort”

THE MENU TABLE TALK

PERSONA

PAGE

CONTENTS 3.13 VOL.47 NO.6 ON THE COVER Our Guide to the Gulf Coast T H E R E S A C A S S AG N E P hotograph ; D I E M l u u, H air / make u p; T r AC E E D U N DA S , S T Y L I S T

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

56 58 60 64 66

table talk “French Quarter Hideaways: Dining for locals” restaurant insider “Meats and Greets” FOOD “Feast of St. Patty: Stirring it up for the Irish” LAST CALL “As Grand As Grand Can Be” DINING GUIDE

DIAL 12

D1 WYES’ new President and General Manager, Allan Pizzato, shares a message with WYES viewers (pg. D3). Check out what exciting new events, programs and auctions WYES has coming up over these next few months (pg. D2). It isn’t too late to purchase tickets for WYES Chocolate Sunday, which will be held on March 24. Please show your support of education, news, public affairs and cultural programming by making a pledge to WYES; you’ll be helping WYES continue it’s decade-long tradition of award-winning public broadcasting for southeast Louisiana and the Mississippi Gulf Coast.Visit wyes.org for additional information.

IN SID E

Waiting for John Paul

hen yo u p u blish maga z ines yo u read

a lot of copy. Every so often I read one sentence that immediately launches my thoughts in another direction. That happened when I was editing the Best New Architecture story. One of the honored new buildings, I read, was at the site on the Xavier University campus where Pope John Paul II spoke in 1987. Whoosh! Suddenly I was back to that day. I had signed up to be in the press pool and was in the bus that was to precede the Pope. As the bus made the turn to enter the campus, those in the long line of well-dressed people who were waiting to see the Pope looked at us excitedly, as though we were important. For the moment, in a vicarious way, we were linked to Rome. Traveling with me that day was a totally cynical French photographer whose mission was to be on hand just in case there was another assassination attempt on John Paul. Much of his time was spent trying to bum a cigarette, or, when he had one, a light. He complained about how few Americans were smoking anymore. We were ushered into a university hall that had been converted into a press room. Though there were only about a dozen of us in the press pool there must have been 50 telephones waiting for us to call in the big story. With time to kill before the Pope arrived and phones to use, I called my mom. “Have you seen the Pope yet?” she asked excitedly. “Not yet.” That moment came about a half-hour later when John Paul, having arrived by limousine, walked among the crowd and alongside the press stands. Hands were eagerly extended for the Pope to touch, including, to my surprise, that of the French photographer, who had seen it all before but was nevertheless carried by the moment. Though the Pope missed me, he did reach the photographer who seemed pleased, even without possessing a cigarette. After the event we were bused to the Rivergate, which served as the hub of media activity. According to the pool arrangement I was supposed to be available to be de-briefed by any reporter who wanted more details about the event, but none came. Xavier had gone by quietly. There was no big news story … Except for one and it was huge but nobody noticed. It was at Xavier that the Pope in his remarks endorsed multiculturalism. He urged that customs and music of different nations be incorporated into the Mass. That day at Xavier the church became more universal. In a spiritual sense it was a development of groundbreaking importance, but it just didn’t pass for news. Now the Sister Katherine Drexel Chapel stands where the Pope made his historic pronouncements. Easter is about hope, and this is the month to celebrate it. Blessed are those who can make even a cynical Frenchman smile.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

LETTERS Delgado Flash, circa 1938

THE RIGHT PLANE

Re: Julia Street column, December 2012 issue. Question from John Magnon of Fairhope, Ala. We enjoy reading the answers to the many questions about forgotten people, places and events that Julia is able to answer, but we have a correction: the Delgado Flash was a monoplane, not a biplane. Rich Harrison Monroe

Ed. Reply. Thanks. We blame Poydras for the error in identifying the photograph. Though he flies himself he still can’t tell a monoplane from a biplane. HOUSE HISTORY

Re: Julia Street column, December 2012 issue. Question from Mrs. B. Burrows of New Orleans. Most of the time Poydras gets it right. Sometimes Poydras gets it wrong. This time Poydras – half right. Although 290 Jackson Ave. was indeed purchased by my maternal grandparents in 1914, the current Arts and Crafts home that stands today was built by them in ’16. My mother, Ruby Cohen Polmer, was born in the home shortly afterward. Soon after my grandparents purchased 290 Jackson 8

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Ave., they had a house mover with a team of mules swing the 1883 Nicholson home to the back of the lot to become 2207 Carondelet St. This left the front of the lot enough room to construct the current home, 1706 Jackson Ave. Nathan and Annie Cohen became the first to occupy the new home with their four children, including their newborn, my mother. 2207 Carondelet Ave. became the life-long home of my aunt and uncle, Dr. Nathan Polmer and Bluma Cohen Polmer. After 1950, 1706 Jackson Ave. became the home of my parents, Ruby Cohen and David Polmer, where I grew up with my three siblings. Yes, two brothers married two sisters. In 1976 the Marist purchased and expanded the home into the attic as a residence for many church-related personnel. Most recently the home was purchased and is being exquisitely restored by Christian Galvin. Sorry, Poydras. Andrew Polmer New Orlean s

Ed. Reply. Wow, thanks for the explanation. We would’ve never known about mules being used to turn a house. Poydras has been reprimanded.

S P E A K IN G O U T

Let’s Make the Tricentennial About the Lakefront

ave yo u noticed ? T he year 2 0 1 8 isn ’ t as far

away as it used to be. We are only five years away from the city’s tricentennial, celebrating Jean-Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville designating a city at the big bend in the lower Mississippi River. We know that our town will try to host the Superbowl again. (Once again the two weekends of the Carnival parade schedule will have to be bifurcated to accommodate the Suberbowl in the middle weekend as happened this year. Mardi Gras in 2018 is Feb. 13; the Superbowl is scheduled for Feb. 4.) Getting the Superbowl would be great, but we would like to make another suggestion: Let’s make the Tricentennial Celebration about refocusing on Lake Pontchartrain. Our lakefront is an underutilized resource, yet it’s as much a part of our history as is the river. Part of what made the site that Bienville selected was the lake system that surrounded it, all the better for trade routes. (In fact the Lemoyne Brothers, Bienville and Iberville, might have seen similarities to their native Montreal which, like New Orleans, is an island surrounded by waterways.) We could do so much more with our lakefront. There will be those who will complain that increased development will compromise green space; yet the lakefront has miles of green space that’s sparsely used. They will say the development would cause the lake to be polluted. To the contrary, developers would have a vested interest in helping to keep the lake clean. In eastern New Orleans the lakefront is largely undeveloped thicket. The fishing camps that once lined the way are long gone. Hurricanes took away much of the activity along the lakefront, but the technology is there to build stronger buildings just as we’re doing with levees. There is a whole new side of the city waiting for attention. We will go one step further and suggest that somewhere along the revived lakefront there be a tower,

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

a permanent monument of the tricentennial, acting as beacon in the same way that a lighthouse would, but also beckoning the nation to discover our lakefront. In 1984 when New Orleans hosted a world’s fair, the river got its due. The event helped transform the riverfront from an outdated industrial area to a spot for recreation and leisure. The main building at the current convention center was the former Great Hall built for the fair. The building that now houses Riverwalk was also constructed for the event. There are more plans for riverfront development and they’re encouraging – its time to pay attention to the lakefront. That could be the legacy of 2018. Now if only the Saints could be in the Superbowl that year …

AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE

JULIA STREET

W IT H P O Y D R AS THE PARROT

T H E P U R S U IT T O A N S W E R E T E R N A L Q U E STI O N S The exotic and only partially documented lives of Hungarianborn Flora Gellert (1895-1985) and her sister Piroska (1904’91), better-known by their stage names – Nita and Zita – have intrigued and frustrated biographers and inspired Lisa D’Amour’s locally produced OffBroadway play, which garnered a 2003 OBIE award.

Dear Julia, Several years ago I remember reading an article in some publication (can’t remember which one) about the Polka Dot Sisters. It was a charming story about the sisters who lived together and everything in their house was polka dots and they wore polka dot clothing, etc. Is there any chance you could tell their story again? I have tried to Google it and can’t find it. It was such a great and warm story about the New Orleans we all know and love and the very eccentric sisters. Susan Lucchesi, C.R.M.C. N ew O rle a ns

While I would admit that the story of Flora and Piroska Gellert is an intriguing one, I would hardly call it warm. Once globetrotting exotic 12

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

dancers, the sisters retired from the stage in the 1940s and taught ladies’ exercise classes before retreating to their Marigny cottage, where they lived for decades as eccentric recluses. Although their sometimes bizarrely embellished personal belongings became coveted and costly collectibles and their lives were creatively explored in an acclaimed locally produced stage production, the sisters themselves died in obscure poverty and were laid to rest in Hebrew Rest cemetery. When Piroska died, in 1991, only three people attended her funeral: the undertaker, the rabbi and the sisters’ neighbor. The exotic and only partially documented lives of Hungarian-born Flora

Gellert (1895-1985) and her sister Piroska (1904-’91), better-known by their stage names – Nita and Zita – have intrigued and frustrated biographers and inspired Lisa D’Amour’s locally produced Off-Broadway play, which garnered a 2003 OBIE award. On Sun., Aug. 18, 1996, Times-Picayune writer J. E. Bourgoyne penned an informative and poignant profile of the late Gellert sisters; the article was called “Sister Act” and should be readily accessible at any public library or through online newspaper archive services. Dear Julia, My family lived Uptown in the 1980s while I was in high school. There was a private social club for high school

Win a Court of Two Sisters Jazz Brunch or Lunch at the Rib Room Here is a chance to eat, drink and listen to music, and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question. If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for one of two Jazz Brunch gift certificates for two at The Court of Two Sisters in the Vieux Carré. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@ MyNewOrleans.com. This month’s winners are: John Gisleson, Pittsburgh, Pa.; and Susan Lucchesi, New Orleans.

kids called “Valencia” on Valence Street a couple blocks from St. Charles Avenue. Valencia held an annual “Southern Ball” I attended one year where the guys dressed as Confederate soldiers and the girls dressed as Southern belles in frilly hoop dresses. (I sometimes wonder whether I dreamed the experience, which now may be viewed as politically incorrect by some.) How long was Valencia in existence, and who owned and operated it? How long did it hold the Southern Ball? Was there ever any public criticism of the Southern Ball? Poydras hopefully remembers flying around Valencia and feeling disoriented from the Old South time warp. John Gisleson P i t t s bur g h, P A

John, Poydras stopped flying around Valencia after that night during duck hunting season when one of the kid’s father thought he was

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

a mallard and reached for a shotgun in his trunk. The distraction of a covey of lowflying pigeons may have been all that saved Poydras’ life. In late 1949, Daniel T. Manget Jr. and his wife, Marjorie, proposed a radical new idea for teen entertainment. Each of 400 families would invest in their children’s future by buying $125 memberships in a new privately funded youth center. The new $55,000 Valencia Club on Dryades Street at Valence Street was a young people’s country club featuring a dance floor, tennis court and soda fountain, offering teen members a safe place to socialize. The Civil War was fought between 1861 and ’65, and centennial observances were in high gear when, in 1963, Mrs. Joseph J. Hebert Jr., Valencia’s director of social activities, initiated the Southern Ball saying she

“wanted to give the girls a taste of their rich Southern heritage and a little glimpse of real Southern charm.” Whether or not the ball was ever publicly criticized, coverage in the local morning paper appears to have been uniformly positive. Hosted by the eight “coteries” or girls’ social clubs within Valencia, the Southern Ball continued until the late 1980s, when money trouble and dwindling membership shuttered the Uptown club. Dear Julia, As a local kid growing up in the 1960s, I have a clear memory of noontime whistles or sirens. I never gave it much thought at the time, since it signaled to me that it was time for either lunch or recess. I remember asking my mom about them and she told me it was a signal to tell the men at a nearby brewery it was time to take a break and eat lunch. I never really

thought that was the whole truth but it was enough to satisfy my curiosity at the time. I may have been a young and relatively innocent child of the Cold War, but I wasn’t dumb. Those “noon whistles” were really air raid sirens, weren’t they? Katherine Hope Me t air ie

Yes, they were air raid sirens. In late 1952, the city of New Orleans began installing a civil defense system comprised of a command center and a network of air raid sirens. Initial plans called for 67 sirens, the first of which was installed at the intersection of Esplanade Avenue and Decatur Street on Sept. 23, 1952. Initial siren testing went badly, with many units found to be defective. Even after the whole network was up and running there were problems with theft and habitation by

birds and small animals. Initially, the sirens were tested only once a month but, as fears of nuclear holocaust increased later in the 1950s, they were tested at noon every day except Sunday. Anyone who grew up here between the ’50s and ’70s knew the daily drill, even if they eventually forgot its significance and the system was allowed to slide into disrepair. By July ’78, the city still had a network of 90 air raid sirens, only one of which still worked – the unit atop City Hall. Dear Julia, Why are so many porch ceilings throughout the city painted pale blue? I have heard various explanations, ranging from bug control to ghosts to good luck but am hoping you may know more about this old New Orleans tradition. Ann Chambliss Shreveport

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Although many local families practice this custom, it isn’t unique to the New Orleans area. Depending on where you live and whom you ask, the name of the shade and the reason for the tradition will vary considerably. The Gullah people of Georgia and South Carolina believe the shade called “haint blue” resembles water and is useful for preventing water-fearing evil spirits (haints) from entering their homes. On the other hand, many other Southerners claim blue porch ceilings look like the sky and discourage spiders and insects from gathering there. Further away, in the Pacific Northwest, the pale blue porch ceiling color is known as “Aurora Blue” and is associated with a mid-19th century Christian commune. Painting a ceiling to look like sky would also have appealed to Victorians who sought in nature inspiration for the col-

ors they used when painting their homes. Dear Julia, Why are there Russian Orthodox crosses on the steeples of the St. Louis Cathedral? I’ve been visiting the city for years and always pose for family pictures in front of the cathedral, but I only recently noticed the crosses. When were they installed, and what’s their significance? Helen Esterhazy Mob ile

The crosses with angled cross bars may look Russian Orthodox, but they’re actually metropolitan crosses. In 1850, the Diocese of New Orleans was elevated to the Archdiocese of New Orleans, and Bishop Antoine Blanc became its first archbishop. As an archdiocese, the city became, in ecclesiastical terms, a metropolitan see, meaning, essentially,

it became an archdiocesan capitol city. This means the city itself, known as a “see,” became the place where the archbishop, the “metropolitan,” is based and oversees an ecclesiastical territory, known as the “metropolis.” The metropolitan crosses on the cathedral spires indicate the church is the metropolitan’s church – the archbishop’s church – for this archdiocese.

Julia on TV

Look for the Julia Street question on “Steppin’ Out,” every Friday at 6:30 p.m. on WYES/Channel 12. The show features reviews, news and features about the New Orleans entertainment scene. Viewers who can answer Julia’s weekly question can call in for prizes. Tell ’em you read about the show in New Orleans Magazine.

THEBEAT M A R Q U E E

P E R S O N A

B I Z

E D U C A T I O N

H E A L T H

N E W S

John Patrick Shanley, author of Moonstruck and Doubt appears at this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival.

PERSONA:

John Patrick Stanley PAGE 20

Katja Heinemann PHOTOGRAPH

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE BE A T OUR

MARQUEE

T O P P I C K S O F T H E M O N T H’S E V E N T S BY

SARAH

RAVITS

Ready for the Races

The Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots will celebrate a milestone this month on March 30: The Louisiana Derby, which is poised to be the biggest in track history as it launches the new Infield Festival. The festival is a new entertainment experience that will allow guests to congregate on the green space within the track oval – for the first time on a live racing day since the 1930s. Rockers Cowboy Mouth will perform, and guests can dine on cuisine from a variety of food trucks. The VIP offerings will include both mobile suites, identical to those at professional golf tournaments and tented party areas. Information, FairGroundsRaceCourse.com.

Green Day

Further evidence that New Orleanians can bounce back quickly after Mardi Gras is the yearly St. Patrick’s Day parade, during which everyone becomes a part of a drunken sea of green in the historic Irish Channel neighborhood and Magazine Street. You can also get pelted by cabbages and other vegetables thrown by merrymakers – or opt for a kiss and a flower. The parade is on March 16. Information, IrishChannelNO.org.

Taking IN TENNESSEE

Literary luminary Tennessee Williams will be celebrated this month at the annual New Orleans Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, March 20-24. The five-day fête will host a variety of celebrities, including author Michael Cunningham (who will judge a fiction-writing contest), Oscar-winning playwright John Patrick Shanley (see pg. 20) and “Mad Men” actor Bryan Batt, among dozens more. As usual, the fest will be rife with educational seminars, workshops, tours, performances and discussions; it will take place at a variety of locations around Williams’ beloved French Quarter. Information, TennesseeWilliams.net.

March 8-10. Chard Gonzalez Dance Theatre presents “Down the Rabbit Hole;” Marigny Theatre. Information, ChardDance.org March 8. 6th annual

Big Easy Blues Festival: Lakefront Arena.

Information, arena.uno.edu

NewOrleansOpera.org

March 9. Italian American Marching Club parade; Information, IAMCNola.org

March 17. St. Patrick’s

Parasol’s Bar. Information, ParasolsBarAnd Restaurant.com

Day block party;

MARCH 2013

et Dalila; Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Information,

myneworleans.com

Orleans Arena. Information,

Day parade; Metairie Road. Information, StPatricksDay

March 15 & 17. Samson

March 21. Alicia Keys; New

March 17. St. Patrick’s

Samson et Dalila, March 8-10

Chard Gonzalez Dance Theatre, March 8-10

NewOrleans.com

SPOTLIGHT

Winter Circle Productions has been producing concerts for about the past five years in New Orleans and other Gulf Coast cities, and the group launched a hip new music and art festival, BUKU, in 2012. Mirroring the excitement of its fans, co-founder Dante DiPasquale expresses enthusiasm to bring the festival back to the Crescent City on March 8 and 9 and says that each day will draw at least 10,000 fans ready to dance, party and

celebrate. Information, TheBukuProject.com

OrleansArena.org

March 23. Martha Graham Dance Company; Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Information,

March 22-23. Hogs

for the Cause; City Park. Information, HogsForTheCause.org

Who are some headliners? BUKU has some

pretty diverse headliners including Kid Cudi, Calvin Harris, Passion Pit, Kendrick Lamar, Nero, Flux Pavilion What are ... The list you persongoes on and ally most on. We think excited about? BUKU co-founder the lineup I am most Dante DiPasquale as a whole excited to encapsulates what see Flying Lotus’s people are listening to Layer-3 visual show, and is a nice mix of the Blackbird Blackbird on

March 23. Eric Clapton in concert; New Orleans Arena. Information, OrleansArena.org

Besides music, what other kind of entertainment can people look forward to? BUKU isn’t just

a music project, it’s also an art project. Our art director is a mad man, and he will kill me if I spill the beans on any of the art exhibits his team has in store, but trust me, they’re going to be sweet. And since New Orleans is home to some of the best cuisine in the world, BUKU will feature several local food stands. We have some more things for entertainment up our sleeves, but we want to keep them a surprise.

How spread out is the festival? How many stages, and where are they? The unique

indoor-outdoor layout of the festival grounds allows there to be several stages in a smaller amount of space than you see at most festivals with

NobaDance.com

March 28. Leonard

McCool’s. Information, StBaldricks.org

March 23. St. Baldrick’s

Day fundraiser; Finn

Cohen’s “Old Ideas World Tour”; Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com

March 24. Louisiana Irish-Italian parade; Metairie. Information, StPatricksDay NewOrleans.com

Eric Clapton, March 23

Alicia Keys, March 21

the VIP-only riverboat and the first-ever U.S. festival appearances from Earl Sweatshirt, Trinidad Jame$ and Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs. Plus a lot of the artists have collaborated with each other on tracks before, so I’m excited about the possibility of some guest sit-ins.

most relevant artists of 2013 (like Japandroids, Alt-J, Zedd) and some veterans (like one of the most influential hip-hop groups of alltime, Public Enemy, Primus’ 3-D show and two sets from Sound Tribe Sector 9). The BUKU camp’s tastes in music vary widely.

BUKU Music + ART Project

no audio overlap. This year, BUKU has five stages: “The Power Plant” outside with the broken down Market Street Power Plant in the background; “The Float Den,” set in a Mardi Gras float manufacturing warehouse; “The Ballroom,” a sleek ballroom space with a balcony; “The Riverfront,” which we have some pretty crazy surprises for; and the VIP-only S.S. BUKU, a New Orleansstyle riverboat docked alongside the festival grounds with views of the main stage.

St. Baldrick’s Day fundraiser, March 23

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE BEA T

PERSONA

John Patrick Shanley

Author of Moonstruck and Doubt appearing at this month’s Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival BY SUE STRACHAN

oh n

P a t r i ck

Shanley’s

world

i m bu e d

with

passion – the passion of love, passion of beliefs, passion of morality, passion of mortality, passion of ideas. It is our dysfunctional, and sometimes functional, relationship to these passions that appear to spark Shanley’s work as a playwright, screenwriter and director. Shanley has written 24 plays, worked on 10 movies for which he was either director or screenwriter and recently collaborated on an opera based on his play, Doubt, A Parable, which made its debut in January at the Minnesota Opera. He has been showered with awards (and this is just a short selection): For the film Moonstruck he won the Academy Award, Golden Globe, Writer’s Guild of America and British Academy Film Award for Best Original Screenplay; Doubt, A Parable, was bestowed with a Tony Award for Best Play and Pulitzer Prize for Drama as a play; when it was made into a film, which he directed and adapted for the screen, it was nominated for multiple awards. In 2009, he received the Lifetime Achievement in Writing from the Writer’s Guild of America. One constant that appears in Shanley’s creative output are the various configurations of passion and how it drives people. So it’s no wonder there’s a link between him and Tennessee Williams, another playwright whose work is redolent of passion. Like Shanley’s works, Williams’ pieces have a distinct sense of place and time, though underlying themes that are timeless. Call it Shanley’s Bronx Gothic to Williams’ Southern Gothic. Shanley first appeared at the Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival in 2010. He returns this year, when he will be leading a Master Class, “Scenes from a Screenwriter’s Notebook: John Patrick Shanley: Big Screen 20

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

At a Glance Age: 62 Profession:

Playwright, director, screenwriter Resides: Williamsburg, Brooklyn (N.Y.) Born: Westchester Square Medical Center, The Bronx, N.Y. Family: Two sons: Nick and Frank. Both are 20 years old. They were adopted four-and-ahalf months apart. Education: High School: Thomas Moore School in New Hampshire; graduated New York University with a degree in the-

ater and was halfway through my Master’s. I ultimately received a honorary doctorate (Doctor of Letters) from NYU. Favorite book: It varies, but I will say, Crime and Punishment. Favorite movie:

Children of Paradise Favorite TV show:

Now, “Homeland”; “Sgt. Bilko” is my favorite in life. Favorite music: Classical music Favorite vacation spot: Avignon, France Hobby: I don’t have any hobbies.

Katja Heinemann PHOTOGRAPH

Stories,” Fri., March 22, 1:302:45 p.m.; participate in the all-star tribute, “Tennessee Williams in Others’ Words,” Sat., March 23, 8-9:30 p.m.; and the panel, “Influences, Mentors & Proteges: Three Contemporary American Playwrights,” Sun., March 24, 11:30 a.m.-12:45 p.m. When did you first come to New Orleans? I’ve been to the

city quite a few times. The first time I was driving across the U.S.: I drove from New York City to Florida, then took a turn at Interstate 10 to New Orleans. I arrived on a Saturday, stayed at the Soniat House Hotel and had an amazing time. How did you end up coming to the Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival? St.

John the Divine Cathedral [in New York City] did an induction [into its American Poet’s Corner] of Tennessee Williams about three years ago. It was a ceremonial night – Eli Wallach and Olympia Dukakis, among others, were there. The organizers asked me to speak and recite something of his work. I said no, but I said I would write something about Williams. The people at the festival liked it so much, they asked me to participate. You once said of Tennessee Williams that he was a “gorgeous unstoppable beast.” He

is one of the greats of the American theater. There is no other playwright that created the same kind of excitement that he did in theater – which also translated into film. It is unprecedented. Such plays as Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, Sweet Bird of Youth and A Streetcar Named Desire have had, over time, all kinds of influence on American playwriting, acting and film. Who would have thought a play could be a film or think of a film as a play? Williams used heightened language that transcended all. He wrote about the South that never was, but was of his own inner landscape. He called it into existence for all of us. 22

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

As a writer and a director, is it hard to see someone else direct your work? Actually the

question is why should the writer direct? I’m a person who has mixed feelings. Why? Sometimes it’s good. Or look at it like this: How many plays or films have not been directed by the writer, and how did they turn out? Doubt, A Parable has been produced as a play, movie and opera. How do these tell that story differently? It’s like being

a visual artist: clay, paint on canvas, charcoal – very different materials are used to express the same story, but each creates a different rendering. A straight play is a spare thing: you tend to not have many actors on the stage, you want to keep the action economical as possible … today, to keep the attention of the audience. For film, you need to repopulate the story – expand it to its natural size. In Doubt we added the congregation and the students. Opera is very sophisticated music. It doesn’t rely on repetitive phrases, but has a full lexicon of music. You hear what’s in somebody’s soul, hear what they’re thinking. What words of wisdom would you give to the budding playwright/writer? Let’s talk about

the poet. They have superpowers – they can do anything. Poets influenced and include Tennessee Williams … poets influence the other arts – films and plays – and manage to connect it all. They alter perception to life itself. It’s a wild and beautiful thing. What are you working on now? Writing a film for Robert

Zemeckis. True Confession: I once cast an ex-girlfriend to play an exgirlfriend. I then had to apologize for her behavior. For more information about the Tennessee Williams/ New Orleans Literary Festival: Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival March 20-24: TennesseeWilliams.net.

NE WS B E A T

West Bank Wildlife Refuge Takes Shape Venture to lower coast Algiers, where hardwood forests press against the West Bank of the Mississippi River, and it’s hard to believe you’re still within the city of New Orleans. Soon, however, a large swath of that area will begin to look more like an African savannah, with giraffes, exotic herd animals and rare birds making their homes there. A 1,000-acre spread of land in this remote corner of New Orleans is being turned into a refuge for more than two-dozen endangered and threatened mammal and bird species, a place where they can live and, just as importantly, breed in conditions more attuned to their natural habitat and social instincts. The new program is called the Alliance for Sustainable Wildlife, and it’s coming about through collaboration between the local Audubon Nature Institute and the San Diego Zoo Global, the parent organization for the West Coast zoo. Audubon president and chief executive Ron Forman called the breeding program a “one-ofa-kind resource for zoos and aquariums to rebuild animal collections that are

in danger of disappearing.” The program is based on findings that some species mate more successfully and benefit from greater genetic diversity when they can roam in herds instead of being paired up for breeding in captivity. While many zoos have breeding programs to help species that face dwindling numbers, not all of them have access to large, undeveloped plots of land suitable for openacreage habitat. The alliance, however, unites the resources of the acclaimed San Diego Zoo with the Audubon Institute, which includes this large West Bank property. The same site is home to the Freeport-McMoRan Audubon Species Survival Center, where researchers safeguard genetic material for endangered species and run smaller-scale breeding programs. “The idea is, since we have all this space, let the antelope be antelope,” Robert Wiese, chief life sciences officer at San Diego Global, told the Associated Press. “Let’s have the herds acting like herds.” Construction for new enclosures of 25 and 50 acres each for specific species will begin later this year, and new breeding programs should begin in 2014. The Audubon Institute and San Diego Zoo Global will share operating costs, and also share research and expertise to develop better breeding programs. – I an M c N u l ty myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE BE A T

BIZ

Buying by the Beach Is it time to buy your own place on the sand? B y K athy F inn

u n - i n - t h e - su n t i m e i s dr a w i n g n e a r , a n d ch a n c e s

are you’re already thinking about packing the family into a car stuffed with ice chests, snacks and snorkel gear and heading to the beach. Maybe it also crosses your mind that it would be nice to have your own beachfront nest rather than renting someone else’s digs. Could this be the year you invest in a vacation home? Some reports suggest it’s worth considering. The National Association of Realtors reported last year that vacation home sales rose 7 percent across the country as some 500,000 properties changed hands – an impressive reversal from trends of previous years. The nationwide economic recession that stretched roughly from 2007 through ’10 was tough on housing overall but particularly hard on popular vacation destinations, such as Florida. As the housing market there dried up, some areas became a wasteland of foreclosures and failed banks. Making matters worse, lenders took to the hills leaving the few remaining prospective buyers in the lurch. More recently, signs of recovery have crept in, stirring buyer interest and prompting lenders to ease up on credit terms. The result: The fat inventory of foreclosed vacation homes is thinning. Realtors association Chief Economist Lawrence Yun says the reversal was bound to occur eventually as the recession created irresistible circumstances. “Investors have been swooping into the market to take advantage of bargain home prices,” he says Yun said lifestyle and leisure choices generally motivate vacation-home buyers, but last year’s survey showed that 80 percent who jumped into the market simply believed it was a good time to buy. Second-home shoppers from Louisiana were among them. Tim Shepard, a longtime realtor in one of New Orleans residents’ favorite vacation areas, says a substantial number of locals are among the new owners of vacation homes in the northwestern Florida region known as the Emerald Coast. “The market is looking a lot like it was before the last big real estate boom in 2004,” the Destin, Fla.-based agent says. Shepard says the region from Perdido Key to Panama City has benefited in part because economic conditions in the traditional “feeder” states of Georgia, Mississippi, Alabama and Louisiana have been generally better than in the nation at large. “Louisiana people have always been strong buyers in this market, and they were some of the first to come back and start snapping up some of the good values,” he says. Texas buyers, too, have shown rising interest in the Emerald Coast, buoyed by a strong oil and gas industry at home, he says. Shepard says that after the coastal real estate market bottomed, around the fall of 2010, it was just a matter of time before buyers reappeared: “When you

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

look at five years of people not buying, you get a lot of pent-up demand,” he says. On top of that, home prices had fallen to as little as 40 percent of their peak value. “Before 2005, a lot of people felt they were priced out of the market, but the housing collapse allowed people to get back in at prices they never thought they would see,” he says. Shepard recently compiled sales figures for the resort community called WaterColor, near Santa

Rosa Beach, a popular second-home spot for Louisiana residents. During the first half of 2012, sales in Watercolor jumped 20 percent compared to a year earlier, he says. Sales of newly built homes represented almost a third of the total purchases. As the inventory of unsold properties declined almost to the 2004 level, prices began to stabilize, Shepard says, noting that ’12 produced the first increase in average sale prices in the community in eight years. He pegs the current average price for Watercolor homes at $385 per square foot. Shepard says the gradually improving economy and continued low interest rates likely will keep prospective buyers interested in the upper Gulf Coast, but he predicts that shopping for bargains will become harder because many of the best values are gone. “The first part of the recovery was in houses,

because it was easier to get financing for houses,” he says, noting that beachfront condominiums came next. “Probably the last opportunity I’m seeing right now, as far as prices still lagging the market, is in harbor-front boating-type properties,” he says. Chances are, buyers won’t be put off by an increasingly tough search for great buys. Analysts The National Association of say that lifestyle objectives still Realtors Vacation Home Buyers are the big drivers in vacation Survey 2012 examined data prohome sales, so the idea of payvided by people nationwide who ing a little more than they had purchase existing and newly planned on won’t necessarily constructed vacation properties turn serious shoppers away. within the previous year. Here In the Realtors association are some highlights from the survey, 82 percent of vacationsurvey findings: home buyers said their priB Vacation-home sales rose 7 mary intention was to use the percent to 502,000 sales, up from property themselves for vaca469,000 the previous year. tions or as a family retreat. B Vacation-home sales accounted About 30 percent said they for 11 percent of all existing and would use the property as new-home transactions. a primary residence in the B Forty-two percent of vacationfuture and only 22 percent home buyers paid cash. planned to rent to others. B Thirty-nine percent of vacaBased on the survey’s protion homes purchased were files, the typical buyer of a vacadistressed (in or approaching tion home was 50 years old, had foreclosure) properties. a median household income of B The median down payment was $88,600 and purchased a prop27 percent of the total price. erty that was a median distance B The median vacation-home price of 305 miles from the primary

residence, with 35 percent of purchases being within 100 miles of home. Buyers planned to own their recreational property for about 10 years, according to the survey.

Facts About Vacation Homes

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

family member, friend or relative to use. B Forty-two percent of vacationhome purchases were in the South. The association’s analysis of U.S. Census Bureau data shows there are 8 million vacation homes in the country, compared with 75.3 million owner-occupied homes.

CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH

was $121,300, down 19 percent from the previous year. B The typical buyer purchased a vacation property that was a median distance of 305 miles from the primary residence; 35 percent were within 100 miles and 37 percent were more than 500 miles from home. B Sixteen percent of vacation buyers purchased the property for a

HEALTHBEAT Kim Edward LeBlanc M.D., Ph.D, Professor and Head of Family Medicine, Director of Rural Education and Professor of Orthopaedics at Louisiana State University Health Sciences Center New Orleans School of Medicine, is one of 10 recipients of the 2012 Robert Raszkowski M.D., Ph.D., ACCME Hero Award, presented by the Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education. The award honors “extraordinary commitment and generosity of time and expertise

enabling the ACCME to fulfill its mission of setting standards for quality continuing medical education (CME) and assuring that accredited CME providers meet those standards.” Dr. LeBlanc was chosen because of his exemplary and long-term service to the ACCME, through service on the Board of Directors, the Accreditation Review Committee, the Committee for Review and Recognition, and the Monitoring Committee, as volunteer surveyors and/ or as workshop faculty. He is the only recipient from Louisiana and has worked with the ACCME since 2001.

Ochsner 5K Family Fest will be held on March 9, featuring a 1-mile run/walk and a 5-kilometer run/walk along River Road and the nearby levee. Proceeds from this event benefit the cardiology; transplant; and Change the Kids, Change the Future programs at Ochsner. Included in fundraiser extravaganza is entertainment from the 610 Stompers (left); Gumbo, the Saints mascot; and the Saintsations.

The after party will feature live entertainment from The Prescriptions and food and drink from more than 30 New Orleans restaurants. There will also be a kids area with facepainting. In the past, this event has raised more than $1 million to support thousands of patients and their families by providing funding for education, training and financial assistance. To participate, register at ochsner.org/run.

The annual fundraiser, Hogs for the Cause, takes place at New Orleans City Park on March 22-23, to

raise money for pediatric brain cancer care. More than 80 teams compete to be crowned the “Louisiana pork champion,” and the family-friendly event will feature live music and food from a variety of local vendors. For information, check out HogsForTheCause.org. – S arah R a v its

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

NE WSB E A T

Innovative Thinking On the Elements The potential and perils of water have directed life in New Orleans from the city’s start. But now some of the city’s innovators are working to shape a new relationship with water, one aimed at better managing the flood threat and creating new economic opportunities along the way. “Adaptation is really our only choice. If we don’t accept change now, we’re really going to be responsible for letting the city go,” says David Waggonner, a local architect and team leader for the Greater New Orleans Water Management Strategy. Waggonner spoke recently at a briefing convened by the Bureau of Governmental Research on the future of stormwater management in the city. Since Hurricane Katrina, he’s been a leading advocate for solutions similar to those used in the famously flood-prone Netherlands. A central take-away from this Dutch model, he says, is to store water in the city’s landscape longer using better drainage and dispersal methods, including more canals and ponds. If properly engineered, he argues, these water features can become community

amenities. Bayou St. John is one local example of this approach, and New Orleans East was developed with more water storage capacity as well. “We don’t need to drain every drop of water that falls. Some of it can be stored and at the same time increase quality of life,” Waggoner says. By contrast, however, the flood-control strategy for much of the city relies on underground piping and unsightly walled canals to pump water out as quickly as possible, which contributes to the city’s subsidence issues and persistent damage to roads and building foundations. “The challenge is to manage the water for very different conditions, from drought to flood,” Waggoner says. “The lesson of the Dutch is that you can’t manage water individually, you have to manage it collectively. If we don’t learn how to manage water, we don’t have a home.” Others are bringing new ideas to the issue as well. This month, the Greater New Orleans Foundation and The Idea Village hold their third annual Water Challenge, a business competition for solutions for living with water – from coastal restoration to stormwater management. The idea is to deploy the competitive energy of entrepreneurs to answer an environmental need while also creating new companies and jobs. For Water Challenge details, see IdeaVillage. org. For more on Waggoner’s research, see LivingWithWater.com. – I an M c N u l ty myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE BEA T

EDUCATION

New Tests Ahead Reaching for new standards BY DAWN RUTH

ou a r e w a i t i n g for a bus . Th e s i g n s a y s t h e bus

comes every 15 minutes with a starting time of 5:53 a.m. It is 3:25 p.m., so when will the next bus arrive? If it’s a New Orleans bus, the answer is, who knows? But if you’re in the third grade and you see this question on a Louisiana assessment test, you better add up the numbers and come up with an answer of 3:38 p.m. Too many wrong answers on such questions could jeopardize your teacher’s job, your school’s reputation and your country’s competitiveness on the world stage. In 2015, Louisiana’s third graders will see such questions on the math portion of standardized tests. This word problem is an example of the testing that will be used to determine if schools are effectively implementing the common core curriculum that 48 states have committed to follow in the future. It is a tough set of standards that integrates computer skills, literacy, computation and thinking skills in ways that Louisiana students have yet to encounter. Students will take online tests to measure their achievement and those tests will require writing skills to answer even the most basic math questions. “It would be a very challenging curriculum for private schools around the country,” says Mickey Landry, principal of Lafayette Academy Charter School. “It’s a very good curriculum. I like it a lot from that perspective.” The common core is designed to prepare students for college and the workforce as early as kindergarten. It is intended to develop the critical thinking skills that American students and future workers need to succeed in a competitive global economy. It forces students to use the disparate skills they are taught in classrooms to solve real world problems. With test scores showing American students falling further and further behind competitors’, the nation’s governors and state education leaders have agreed to this common strategy to catch up. Researchers have determined that in the United States there’s a one- to twoyear gap between what colleges expect high school graduates to know and

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

what high schools are actually teaching them. Such research explains why so many entering college freshmen must take remedial courses before starting college level work. On the other hand, implementing this tough curriculum comes at the same time as several other game changing reforms. For educators in New Orleans, it comes at a time when they are just now bringing public school students up to the proficiency level of present standards – standards that

are now deemed far too low. “It’s a lot of hard work,” says Patricia McBride, a former first grade teacher in Petal, Miss., who helped teachers in her district prepare for the change.

“Overall, teachers will teach material that’s about two grade levels above what they’re used to teaching, educators say. In Louisiana, they’ll be adapting to these rigorous standards at a time when they’re still adjusting to a state accountability system …”

As an instructional leader, McBride says that her job was to get overloaded teachers involved in preparing classroom materials. Teachers have endured “a lot of changes in the last 10 years,” she says. “They have been asked to change and change and change.” In McBride’s district, teachers met each week last summer at no extra pay to prepare. They did it, she says, because they want their kids to do well and their “jobs are at stake.” Under this curriculum, even first graders are expected to read well enough to identify an author’s main point and to write a main point of their own. They must write a five-paragraph essay using research, McBride says. Overall, teachers will teach material that’s about two grade levels above what they’re used to teaching, educators say. In Louisiana, they’ll be adapting to these rigorous standards at a time when they’re still adjusting to a state accountability system that gives schools grades “A” through “F,” based on test scores and other measures. In addition, teachers’ job security rests on annual evaluations that are partly based on test scores. If their students don’t show adequate academic growth, they could lose tenure and their jobs. In addition to the increased complexity of the academic instruction, students eventually will take all standardized tests on computers, rather than using paper and pencils as they do now. Some of the tests will be multiple choice, but they’ll also be required to write two-page essays. In the classroom, students will receive computer instruction so that they’re familiar with skills such as typing, relocating information by dragging and doing online research. English and reading instruction will shift from fiction-based materials to more nonfiction beginning as low as the first grade. Curriculum designers say that students need to be trained as early as possible for the technical careers that await them. Since Hurricane Katrina, when the state took over low-performing schools and put them in the Recovery School District, New Orleans schools have made miraculous strides in raising the achievement levels of low-income students, but a large percentage of students are still performing below “basic” as judged by present standards. In two years, the same students, many who live in extreme poverty and are traumatized by neighborhood violence, will be expected to perform at even higher levels. Educators are bracing themselves for what they call an “implementation dip” in test scores. In Kentucky, even after three years of teaching training, the percentage of students scoring “proficient” or better on tests measuring the new standards dropped for elementary and middle school students, educators say. “Louisiana has not done anywhere near that much preparation,” Landry says. “It’s a huge, looming issue for the state of Louisiana.” Susan Jurkunas, who’s in charge of common core preparation at Lafayette Academy, says that teachers in her school meet on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons after classes to develop curriculum strategies and new lesson plans. Another challenge will be preparing the public and parents for decreasing test scores. “I anticipate we will take a hit this year and maybe next year,” Jurkunas says, “but then we will be speeding along.” myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

N EWSBEAT

Crescent City Farmers Market Founder Going National

All over the food world, people are getting back to basics and slowing things down, with a renewed appreciation for artisanal approaches and short farm-to-table supply chains. That was the model Richard McCarthy helped rekindle as cofounder of the Crescent City Farmers Market almost 20 years ago. Today, McCarthy is advocating for these same values on the national stage. He was named the new executive director for Slow Food USA, the New York-based American branch of an international movement that supports traditional foods and food producers. “The 20th century kind of told us to get in line and march, which pointed to order and scale and all the things that make life homogenous and stale,” McCarthy says. “Now, everywhere, people are holding on to their tastes of home and their links to community and making things work again in a way that doesn’t look like the 20th century.” McCarthy helped revive the city’s once-thriving market network by creating the Crescent City 32

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Farmers Market in 1995. It has since grown into three weekly markets, and McCarthy later created another nonprofit, Market Umbrella, to support other markets worldwide with best-practice research and mentoring. For his efforts, McCarthy last year won a “Heroes of the New South Award” from Southern Living magazine, which called him “one of the most innovative and catalytic farmers’ market efforts in the U.S.” He is joining Slow Food at a pivotal time for the group, with some of its membership torn between a focus on the pleasures of traditional foods or on food justice and health issues. That dispute contributed to the dissolution of the New Orleans chapter of Slow Food several years ago, but it was reformed in 2012 (see SlowFoodNOLA.com). For his part, McCarthy says New Orleans’ food culture may provide some insight to a middle ground, where an appreciation for culinary traditions, growing seasons and chefs and farmers can lead to healthier, non-industrialized approach to food. “We’ve been slow long before it was a good thing. But now we’re seeing this recognition that what we’re doing here in New Orleans is on the right track,” he says. “I’m going to put New Orleans high on (Slow Food’s) list of centers of innovation.” – I an M c N u l ty

LOCALCOLOR THE SCOOP

MUSIC

READ+SPIN

CHARACTERS

JOIE D’EVE

MODINE GUNCH

CHRONICLES

HOME

Chris Owens Annual French Quarter Easter Parade

THE SCOOP:

Hop To It PAGE 35

CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

T H E S C O O P at 9:45 a.m. Sat., March 2, in the Veterans Skylight area in the mall. After the egg hunt, the St. Augustine Marching Band will second-line with the Easter Bunny to Center Court. The egg hunt also serves as the kick-off for the Education Expo, which features between 40 and 50 schools, summer camps and other resources for kid activities. There will be face painting and more activities for the kids from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. If you would like to get your child’s picture taken with the Easter Bunny, he will be available from March 2 through March 30. See the Easter Bunny during regular mall hours, but catch him before he leaves for the day, usually one hour before the mall closes. Lakeside Shopping Center: 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 8358000, LakesideShopping.com Sat., March 9

Longue Vue annual Easter Egg Hunt.

For little kids, one of the best parts of Easter is going to an egg hunt. One option is the Longue Vue annual Easter Egg Hunt on Sat., March 9, at Longue Vue House and Gardens. There will be plenty of eggs filled with Elmer’s chocolates to find plus crafts, lawn games and face painting. Loupe Photography will also be on hand to take pictures with the Easter Bunny. Longue Vue members are invited for 9:30 a.m., with a hunt starting at 9:45 a.m. Non-members can join at 12:30 p.m. with a hunt starting at 12:45 p.m. Tickets to the egg hunt cost $6 for members and $8 for nonmembers and can be purchased online in advance.

Hop To It

Longue Vue House and Gardens: 7 Bamboo Road, 488-5488, LongueVue.com

Mark your calendar for this month’s Easter happenings.

Mount Carmel Academy’s annual Alumnae Easter Eggstravaganza. Mount

By HALEY ADAMS a s ter S u n d ay f all s o n M arch 3 1 th i s year .

In addition to the religious significance it’s also a time for parades, egg hunts and pictures with the Easter Bunny. Here are a few happenings to add to your Easter schedule.

Sat., March 2

Easter Egg Hunt and Pictures with the Easter Bunny at Lakeside Shopping Center.

Lakeside Shopping Center kicks off Easter season with an Easter Egg Hunt 34

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Sun., March 10

Carmel Academy hosts the annual Alumnae Easter Eggstravaganza on Sun., March 10. The egg hunt starts at 11:30 a.m. at the school but there’s also an optional Mass at 9:30 a.m. Hosted by the school’s Alumnae Association, the day is a very family-friendly event, and “a nice way to bring our alumnae and friends of Mount Carmel Academy to our school,” says Mount Carmel Academy Public Relations Coordinator CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH

Rejoicing found treasures at NOMA’s Egg Hunt in the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden.

ment park. (The Carousel Gardens Amusement Park will also be open during the egg hunt.) In addition to the egg hunt, there will be face painting and pictures with the Easter bunny. Don’t forget to bring your own camera! There will also be the chance to see Carmen the Fairy Godmother at the Storyland Castle. Carmen will do two shows – one at 1 p.m. and the next at 3 p.m. Tickets to the City Park Easter Egg Hunt cost $3 per person. You can also follow City Park on Facebook at facebook.com/citypark. Carousel Gardens Amusement Park: 1 Victory Drive, 483-9402, NewOrleansCityPark.com Sun., March 31

Amy Smith. Tickets cost $12 in advance (by calling or online), or $15 at the door. One ticket includes a hot breakfast, the egg hunt, crafts and games. Kids will also get the chance to meet the Easter Bunny; photo packages with the Easter Bunny will be available for an additional fee. Mount Carmel Academy: 7027 Milne Blvd., 288-7626, extension 217, mcaubs.org Sat., March 16

New Orleans Museum of Art Egg Hunt. The third annual NOMA Egg Hunt happens from noon to 2 p.m. Sat., March 16, in the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, is likely to attract more than 600 kids, says NOMA’s Kristen Jochem. The event revolves around the egg hunt, of course, but there will also be a petting zoo, face painting and more activities. The Easter Bunny will make an appearance and children will be able to get their picture taken with him. “We will have the Elmer’s bunny who will be passing out chocolate,” Jochem says. “Kids can walk up and take a picture. We will have another bunny set up for a more formal picture that they can pay for.” Advance tickets to the NOMA Egg Hunt cost $10 for members and $12 per non-members. Tickets cost $15 at the door, but kids 2 years and younger get in free. Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden: 1 Dueling Oaks Drive, City Park, 658-4100, NOMA.org Sunday, March 31

City Park Easter Egg Hunt. On Easter morning, head to City Park for the annual City Park Easter Egg Hunt at the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park. The hunt starts at 10 a.m. but gates open at 8 a.m. “We suggest getting to the park early as crowds can get large,” says Amanda Frentz, a development associate at New Orleans City Park. For this egg hunt, kids will be allowed to take 12 eggs home. Make sure your children open all of their eggs because some will have grand prizes in them, such as season passes to the amuse36

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

30th annual Chris Owens French Quarter Easter Parade. No major

New Orleans holiday would be complete without a parade, so on Easter Sunday the main event is the annual Chris Owens French Quarter Easter Parade. As the first woman to be inducted into the New Orleans Musical Legends Park and the owner of the Chris Owens Club on Bourbon Street, Owens is an icon in New Orleans, so parade-goers often like to see her in person, says Kitsy Adams, Owens’ publicist of 25 years. This year’s parade is a special one because 2013 marks the parade’s 30th anniversary. Some participants are coming from as far as Germany to ride in the parade. And while this year’s parade might be extra special, one of its biggest draws stays the same: what Owens will wear. “That’s the big to-do,” Adams says. “Everyone wants to know what she’s wearing. It’s always very exotic, over-the-top and beautiful.” The parade rolls at 1 p.m. on Easter Sun., March 31, on the corner of Canal and Bourbon streets. Adams recommends finding a spot on the parade route early because the event can draw up to 100,000 people. For more information and a parade map, visit FrenchQuarterEasterParade.com. Sun., March 31

14th annual Official Gay Easter Parade. If you’d rather go to a parade later in the day, check out the 14th annual Official Gay Easter Parade at 4:30 p.m. on Sun., March 31. The parade is the grand finale of a series of events that precede the parade. All events work toward the goal of raising money for Food for Friends, a program run by the NO/AIDS Task Force that delivers meals to AIDS patients and provides a food pantry for them. This year’s goal is to raise $30,00, but parade chairman Rip NaquinDelain says he’s hoping for more. “Last year our goal was $25,000 but we raised $36,000,” Naquin-Delain says. “This year we’re hoping for $30,000 but I’m hoping for $40,000.” The parade has been going on for 11 years, raising a total of $147,439 for charity. The parade happens in the French Quarter. For more information, visit GayEasterParade.com. CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

MUSIC

Matt Lemmler’s ‘‘Ode to Joy’’ Jazzing the Ninth Symphony B Y J A S O N B E R R Y

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

n the r i ght ha n d s , ja z z m u s i c ha s a n

almost limitless capacity to rework standards or pop songs with the polish of embellishment, thus creating a piece that stands on its own feet, approaching the new. John Coltrane’s version of “My Favorite Things” took a sentimental favorite from The Sound of Music, discarded the lyrics, and with a shift to slow tempo, expanded the melody on a gently ascending layered intensity. ’Trane’s reed work is supreme, and the arrangement so inventive that the show tune version has felt saccharine to me ever since – and hey, I like Julie Andrews. Willie Nelson’s versions of “Blue Skies” and “Sunny Side of the Street” rise to a similar level of artistry, taking gems from the American songbook and with that delicate guitar and tender, poetic interpretation of the lyrics you come away feeling that you’ve heard it for the first time. At least in the case of “Sunny Side,” I can hold the Duke Ellington orchestra’s instrumental version at one extreme, touch Nelson’s tender ballad at the other and emulate the philosopher Pascal’s advice to thereby “fill the intervening space.” I can’t do that for the Rolling Stones emulating the magic of Chuck Berry. Sorry, Mick. Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” from the Ninth Symphony would seem a most unlikely candidate for a jazz arrangement, at least that was my take until I came upon Matt Lemmler’s version. The graduate of Loyola University in New Orleans and the Manhattan School of Music sings in a plaintive voice with tinges of country gospel, in very slow tempo, leaving spaces between certain words that plant anticipation from the pause or after thought. The lyrics are so universal as to yield flexibility in the arrangements across any number of idioms. I wonder how Allen Toussaint would sing the following:

E l i z abeth perr i n P hotograph

CD Aaron Neville’s latest album, My True Story, is a new take on the New Orleanian’s favorite doo-wop songs. You will recognize songs such as “Tears on my Pillow” and “Little Bitty Pretty One.” Billboard.com reported that the album debuted at No. 7 on the Top R&B/Hip-Hop Albums. That is Neville’s “highest charting album ever,” according to the website. If you still need another reason to get My True Story, the Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards co-produced the album and helped out on guitar.

CHILDREN’S When the Lights Went Out in the City is the first children’s book for New Orleans native Christi Johnston Rice. With the help of Megan Kay Nolan’s illustrations, the book follows Flambeaux, a power truck, as he drives during Metairie and New Orleans through the power outage of Hurricane Isaac. Both parents and kids will enjoy seeing familiar sights in the book such as City Park and Audubon Zoo.

COOKBOoK It is usually Emeril Lagasse who gets all the accolades for cooking in New Orleans, but now his daughters have their own cookbook, The Gluten-Free Table. When Jilly Lagasse and Jessie Lagasse Swanson were diagnosed with gluten intolerance, they had to find ways to navigate their new glutenfree diet. Their new book includes gluten-free recipes – including pasta dishes, cookies and pizzas – plus some tips and resources for living a gluten-free life.

NOVEL Out of the Easy is the second novel from bestselling author Ruta Sepetys. She traveled to New Orleans multiple times to research the history of New Orleans in the 1950s to write the story of Josie, the daughter of a prostitute, who hopes to leave New Orleans for college but becomes involved in a murder investigation. The book is gripping from beginning to end and the author’s descriptions of New Orleans make it fun for anyone familiar with the city to follow Josie through the French Quarter.

Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Haley Adams, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

“Melt the clouds of sin and sadness. Drive the dark of doubt away. Giver of immortal goodness. Fill us with the light of day!” Common to churches and symphonic halls, “Ode to Joy” is the third cut on Ubuntu, a CD of diverse material released last summer by Lemmler and the New Orleans Jazz Revival Band. The first song is black spiritual “Wade in the Water.” Kim Prevost does vocals on three songs, including “Saviour, Like A Shepherd Lead Us.” Lemmler on keyboard leads an assemblage of stellar musicians. Lemmler approaches Beethoven’s lyrics of soaring mysticism by elongating the lines, unfurling the song in something of the manner of a downhome spiritual in no special hurry. His unlikely adaptation came as the request from a woman who was dying: Jennifer Davis, a violinist, whom Matt and his wife, Lauren Lemmler, had gotten to know as a colleague in their work with the orchestra on a road tour for Phantom of the Opera. When Hurricane Katrina hit, the Lemmlers and their 2-year-old son evacuated to Houston and stayed with Davis and her family. Later, when Davis learned that she had brain cancer, she asked Lemmler for an arrangement to play at her funeral.

“I was bawling, in tears,” he says, “but I understood I was doing something more powerful, way deeper and more spiritual than anything I’d done before.” When the recorded version appeared on Ubuntu he also released Matt Lemmler’s Portraits of Wonder: A Tribute to the Music of Stevie Wonder. Several musicians play on both CDs: John Ellis on tenor sax, Brian Blade on drums, Jason Mingledorf on baritone sax and alto flute. Ubuntu features stellar work by Jason Marsalis on vibraphone, Evan Christopher on clarinet and David Caceres on alto horns, among others. Lemmler grew up in the 9th Ward and attended Holy Cross High School. After graduate school in New York, he returned to New Orleans and at various times played with the Dukes of Dixieland, Pete Fountain, Connie Jones and jazz modernists Steve Masakowski and James Singleton and vocalist Leah Chase. Lemmler had just started a tenure track position teaching in the University of New Orleans jazz program when the storm hit. He found work with a church choir and a jazz club in Houston, though his marriage of 17 years came to an end. He eventually moved back. In January of this year, many months after the recording was released, Lemmler sang “Ode to Joy” at the funeral of a family friend accompanied by Lauren on violin; their 9-year-old “The chants of the Mardi Gras Black Indians also use the Creole language, son Miles on cello; Matt’s brother Michael on piano although they have been diluted over the years by American black speech. A and organ; and sister-in-law Ashley Lemmler on vocals. good example of the Black Indians’ Creole is in the chant or prayer that opens Perhaps it was the synergy that comes from people in the their Mardi Gras observance. They sing ‘Mad cu defio, en dans dey,’ which is pews, or playing with a more pared down ensemble, but he seemed more at ease with the song, letting lines pull a corruption of the old Creole song, ‘M’Allé couri dans déser,’ used in connecthe melody. The deep sorrow in the room, perhaps, aided tion with Voodoo rituals and associated with the Calinda dance.” his interpretation. Roaming in a religious vein, Lemmler is – Sybil Kein, Creole: The History and Legacy of gaining as a vocalist. Louisiana’s Free People of Color

‘‘

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

L OCAL C O L O R

C A S T O F CH ARAC TERS

Portrait of Two Friends Greg Raymond and Patrick Leblanc are thankful B Y G E O R G E G U R T N E R

“Never shall I forget the time I spent with you. Please continue to be my friend, as you will always find me yours.” – Ludwig van Beethoven

f i t ’ s tr u e what the cl i ch é maker s s ay abo u t how

“opposites attract,” then Greg Raymond and Patrick Leblanc have forged a friendship that will last the test of all time. The 52-year-old Raymond, owner of a Kenner jewelry store, is a former offensive lineman for Louisiana State University under the tutelages of the iconic Charlie McClendon and for one year that of Jerry Stovall. Raymond is a massive man, towering into the sky, with arms like tree trunks and who walks with a slow gait that speaks of Tiger bravado. The 58-year-old Leblanc doesn’t have the luxury of walking. He moves by pushing his body backward in the wheelchair that has been his “legs” all of his adult life. Leblanc was born with cerebral palsy and can neither walk nor communicate … or so it would seem. “I’ve known Patrick for about a year,” Raymond says. “But in that short time it’s amazing how our bond as friends has grown. I had been attending Mass every day at St. Edward the Confessor Church in Metairie for a couple of years, and I would see him there every day. I’d say hello and he’d smile. I could never understand what he was saying.” He continues, “Then one day, I saw him at Jazz Fest. I hadn’t been there in maybe 20 years. But on this day, I saw Patrick and I still didn’t know his name so I just said, ‘Hey, my brother, how’re you doing?’ Well, that broke the ice. He came up to me every day to shake my hand

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

and to tell me in the sign language he uses how things were going. Nothing dramatic, but I always made time for him and he made time for me. Then we started looking for each other every night at church. I offered to pick him up to bring him to Mass then to take him home after Mass. It was supposed to be a short-term thing, maybe a week or so. It’s been about a year now … and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I feel honored to be able to serve him even if just by being able to take him to and from church.” And ‘church’ is the place Leblanc seemingly always is at peace. He attends Catholic Mass twice each day – in the mornings at St. Mary Magdalen and in the evenings at St. Edward. “He comes in pushing himself backward around church in that wheelchair and he’s always smiling,” says one St. Edward parishioner. “He stops and shakes hands with as many people as he can and he wishes everybody well. Few people can understand him, but then again … I’m sure they do understand him. He says he’s in church to give thanks. You look at some people, they break a finFRANK METHE PHOTOGRAPH

gernail and they moan and whine for a week. Here’s a man who’s been in that wheelchair all his life, having to depend on others for everything … and he’s giving thanks.” “I see him when he comes into church,” says Msgr. Robert Massett, pastor of St. Mary Magdalen Church. “He’ll stop at each statue and say a prayer. In that odd garbled sound he makes, he’s praying. He knows the saints and God understand. I know he’s in pain and I often wonder how incredibly frustrating it must be to live the way he does. But he never complains. To tell the truth, Patrick is my idol.” Leblanc was born the second child of twins. His sister was born with no complications. But at some point, those complications did happen to Patrick and consigned him to a painful life. “Patrick suffers terribly with his back,” says his mother Marion Leblanc. “Right now his health is not good. We have to take him to the doctor about every six months for an epidural. I know it’s painful, but he never complains. Sometimes at night, when he can’t sleep, he’ll spend the entire night praying. All he wants to do is pray and give thanks.” It is a cold, windy night in Metairie. The temperature hovers in the mid-30s. In a flash, one of the massive doors at St. Edward’s Church flies open. Within seconds, Raymond is pushing the wheelchair holding his friend, Leblanc into the church. Raymond stops at the back of the church to allow Leblanc to wheel himself up to each of the statues of the saints where he says a few words with his mangled sounds. He points to a statue and smiles. “Yes, they know what you’re saying,” says a man who has stopped to shake hands with Leblanc. But Leblanc already knows that. Raymond sits in the first pew of the church and places his hands on the railing. Leblanc eventually rolls up to the railing and places one of his hands on Raymond’s huge wrists. Raymond gives a reassuring pat to Leblanc’s hand, which will stay on Raymond’s wrist throughout the Mass. “Somebody once told me, ‘Greg, you’re so good for doing this … for taking care of Patrick the way you do.’ Taking care of Patrick? I am honored to be able to do this. He is so small in stature. He looks like a little child. And at times, I feel like God has entrusted me with the care of an angel. I am so deeply honored to be able to do this for him. He gives a lot more to me than I could ever give to him. Somebody said that because I’m such a big person, Patrick feels safe with me. I feel that when he puts his hand on mine or when he looks at me and gives that big smile of his. I am so blessed to be able to do this for him.” The relationship between former football player and cerebral palsy victim has grown strong over the past year. Raymond says his wife Charlene “has fallen in love with Patrick. She thinks the absolute world of him.” “And,” Raymond says. “He always tells me he wants me to give her kisses from him. She doesn’t see him as much as I do, but when she does, he always hugs her and gives her a kiss on the cheek.” Raymond calls Leblanc “a deeply spiritual person.” And in the rough sign language the two men have developed as a means of communication, Raymond will sometimes act as interpreter when the inevitable, “What is he saying?” comes up after Mass is finished and Leblanc is wheeled down the center aisle of the church, stopping only to “give encouragement” to this man whose son is waiting on a test result or that woman who is anxious about a job interview.” “Patrick never thinks of himself,” Marion Leblanc says. “He always thinks of other people. The people out there in that world mean so much to him.” “I’m one of those people,” Raymond says. “And I am so thankful, too. Thankful that Patrick Leblanc is my friend.” myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

M O D I N E’S N EW O RLEAN S

WiFi Weirdness B Y M O D I N E G U N C H

y mother - i n - law , M s . L ar d a , ha s

reached that age where she gets compliments on having her own teeth. But being old ain’t slowed her down. She still runs her own business and minds everybody else’s. However, she got no use whatsoever for modern technology. She paid extra for a cell phone that don’t do nothing but phone. She said she was tired of taking pictures of her ear. Her daughter Gloriosa is the total opposite. Gloriosa loves cyber everything. Her house Uptown has all the digital bells and whistles, plus historic architecture. She and her husband, Proteus, just spent a ton of money having their fancy touch-screen thermostat connected with their WiFi system, which Gloriosa can control from her smartphone when she’s not home. She can also turn on her coffee pot and TV, and program classical music into speakers in every room in the house with this phone. She is worried though, because lately there have been a lot of burglaries in her neighborhood. So she asks Ms. Larda to house-sit. She knows better than to say anything to Ms. Larda about the WiFi setup. Ms. Larda always brings her own coffee pot – the kind you set on the stove – and she always watches TV in the kitchen where they got an old set with buttons on the front. Gloriosa will just check the New Orleans weather online and set the new thermostat to an appropriate temperature. Ms. Larda won’t have to fool with it. She will probably think it’s another TV. Turns out it costs money to send electronic messages from a cruise ship, so Gloriosa just sets the thermostat at 69, puts the phone in her suitcase and hopes for the best. She is really on vacation now. But her little daughter Momus is worried. How can Gramma get along without no TV or nothing? Gloriosa says she’ll be fine, but Momus don’t believe it. Momus is only 7, so naturally she knows everything about technology. She digs out Gloriosa’s smartphone and each time the ship docks, she sneaks it onshore. Then she taps the screen to turn on the TV or fix Gramma a pot of coffee back home. She even turns on the classical music a couple of times. Smart as she is, Momus don’t understand about time zones, so back home, music is coming on in the middle of the night, coffee is brewing any old time and the TV is clicking on and off. Ms. Larda starts to suspect this house is diabolically possessed. The last straw comes when Momus accidentally hits the thermostat control; the heat in the house roars on and the temperature shoots up to 99. Ms. Larda runs out on the front porch and calls her priest. Father McFarley ain’t in at the moment, but his secretary takes the message, and once she understands that this emergency ain’t about exercising (“Father jogs a half-mile faithfully every morning”) but about exorcism, she says she’ll get hold of him right away. Ms. Larda goes inside, takes a cold shower, dries off with Momus’s Wonder Woman beach towel and stretches out on the couch to stay cool. She takes out her rosary, wonders if it’s disrespectful to pray wearing nothing but this towel, which – since she’s the hefty type – don’t cover her too well, but she decides God has seen her in a lot less, not to mention Adam and Eve. So she closes her eyes and starts her Hail Marys. The classical music comes on again, soft at first, and then louder and louder and louder. Her eyes pop open, and a man is 44

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

standing in the door, looking as shocked as she is, but wearing clothes. Black clothes. And a Roman collar. I know there’s been a lot of bad things said about priests lately, but this priest was pure and innocent as the driven snow, because if that poor man lusted after anything in his heart, it wouldn’t be Ms. Larda in a Wonder Woman beach towel. He backs out quick and slams the door. She throws on her muumuu and runs after him. Father McFarley is leaning against a porch column, swabbing his bald head with a Kleenex, probably trying to wipe his mind clean. He explains that when he got her message he was only a couple of blocks away, so he hurried over, knocked and rang the bell, and was drowned out by music, so he turned the knob and the door opened. She can’t blame evil spirits for that; she probably left the door unlocked before her shower. But just as she brings him inside, the music stops and the TV clicks on. “Swamp People.” Now, Father recently sat through two hours with a salesman who wanted to technologize his church – automated chimes, electronic candles and stuff like that. And technology is what Father really lusts after in his heart. But in his parish, people need food more than automated anything – so he spent the money on that. But he did pay more attention to the salesman’s talk than he paid to Exorcism 101 back in the seminary. He approaches the thermostat, which glows evilly on the wall, mumbles to himself, goes into Gloriosa’s home office, sees the WiFi router and unplugs it. “Begone, Satan,” he tells it. Then he resets the thermostat and turns off the TV. Afterward, Ms. Larda tells me she witnessed a miracle. Well. I got to tell her the truth. So I start to explain about the smartphone. She stops me cold. “I already figured that out, Modine,” she says. “This is a different miracle. There I was with the door unlocked, naked as a sitting duck, burglars prowling around. But God sent Father McFarley. Why? Because I was saying my rosary. That’s why.” She is probably right. God really didn’t want to see her in that beach towel. L O R I O SI E C K I I L L US T R A T I O N

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2012

J OIE D’ E V E

BLOGS FROM THE NEW NEW ORLEANS

The Girliest Girl Adventures in overscheduling B Y E V E K idd C ra w f ord

am n ot a f a n o f r i goro u s over s che d u l i n g o f yo u n g

children. Ruby has a once-a-week class at the fabulous City Park Movement & Art, where she’s been a student in everything from ballet to yoga since she was 18 months old. She has Daisy Scouts every other Friday. Of course, she has full-day kindergarten and the associated homework, and in between we have the occasional birthday party or play date or trip to the zoo. But I like the fact that her schedule allows us the freedom to bake cupcakes, watch “Barefoot Contessa” and have tea parties, with ample time left over for Ruby to play bizarre games with her myriad toys (just last week, there was high drama involving Pinkie Pie, Princess Jasmine, a plastic hunk of watermelon and an outgrown baby sock). In addition to not really wanting kids to be overscheduled, my other steadfast parenting principle is not wanting kids to grow up too fast. I am not talking about independence; I definitely encourage Ruby to pour her own milk and wash her own hair and keep track of her own things. I am talking about the kind of stuff you see on one of my guiltiest TV pleasures, “Toddlers & Tiaras.” I mean, my God, parents are spraytanning their kids and plucking their eyebrows and bleaching their teeth. I won’t even let Ruby pierce her ears! And yet somehow, because parenting makes hypocrites out of us all, one Saturday found me running like crazy from a birthday party to a parade route play date to an appointment at a new blow-dry bar in town to get Ruby’s hair straightened. An overscheduled day culminating in a vanity treatment for my 6-year-old? To straighten out her muchbeloved signature crazy ringlets? What was I thinking? But the truth is that Ruby is the girliest girl ever – I have no idea how that happened, but she has a better grip on accessories, hairstyles and makeup at 6 than I do at 32. And although I’m not budging on something as permanent as ear-piercing just yet, she has been begging to have her hair straightened for months, so when the PR people for blo (5530 Magazine St., 570-6101) got in touch to offer me – as an esteemed member of the media, apparently – a free hairstyle for my daughter and me, I accepted. My love of free shit ran up against my wariness of beauty treatments for kids

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

and my indifference of beauty treatments for myself, and “free” won out, with me shrugging my shoulders and saying, “Well, it’s only temporary, and she’s been asking for so long. And it will be a bonding experience.” And honestly, it really was. It was so much fun. My mom kept Georgia for the afternoon, and Ruby and I walked straight from the parade route, all weighted down with beads, to blo on Magazine Street. They gave us strawberry lemonade and pink Starburst, washed our hair and styled it while we held hands. Ruby and I walked back to our car feeling extremely glamorous, an illusion that lasted until Ruby announced loudly that she had to pee and then sang a song about it all the way home. The owner of the new salon proudly informed me that Ruby was their very first “blo girl,” an unlikely honor for a little girl whose mom only wears lipstick on special occasions and whose dad still won’t let her wear a bikini. The staff at blo did a great job with both of us, and Ruby’s straight hair looked wonderful, although I was relieved when it went back to its normal, familiar bouncy curls after her bath. I’m still trying desperately to keep her from growing up too fast, but I have to admit that this mother-daughter outing was a terrific experience. If I ever start talking about taking her to get a spray tan, though, I hope someone will take a page from my other guilty reality TV pleasure – and stage an “Intervention.” Excerpted from Eve Kidd Crawford’s blog, Joie d’Eve, which appears each Friday on MyNewOrleans.com. For comments: info@neworleansmagazine.com.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

C H R O N I C L ES

The Allman Brothers performing at The Warehouse, circa 1972.

Curtain Raisers Impresarios put on the shows B Y C A R O L Y N K O L B

recounted in their song, “Truckin.’” A list of The theater, getting an opera star to the airport through a flood, buying Warehouse’s acts is at Blackstrat.net, the website an old limousine to transport musicians: New Orleans impresarios done by Bob Wahl and John Dubois. have brought the city fabulous music, fascinating performers and a Simmons recalled that The Warehouse, in its wealth of great stories about their own adventures. 12-year run, brought attention to rock: “I think it Rock music found a New Orleans home on Tchoupitoulas Street at The broke the ice, got a lot of people thinking it’s not Warehouse. Covington attorney John Simmons recalls that back then – circa just for hippies, it was fun for everyone.” And, 1970 – “Rock bands couldn’t rent the Municipal Auditorium.” He, Bill Johnston, it was profitable. “We made money with it, yes Don Fox and Brian Glynn, founded Beaver Productions, and, as Simmons explains, “we were out riding around New Orleans through the years has boasted numerous places around town and we found this warehouse: 28,000 to showcase performers. In the past, concert performers and vaudesquare feet.” ville acts as well as movies might share a stage. Restoration of “We paid $150,000. We blackfour classic spots is ongoing. The Joy Theater at 1200 Canal topped the floors, put in seven exits, St.; the Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St.; the Civic Theatre, 510 more bathrooms than were required.” O’Keefe Ave.; and the Carver Theatre at 2101 Orleans Ave. will all Simmons says. The opening acts on offer New Orleanians new – but familiar – theatrical venues, suitable Jan. 30, 1970, were Fleetwood Mac for concerts or movies. To refresh your memory of past New Orleans and the Grateful Dead – who went theaters, try this book: There’s One In Your Neighborhood: The Lost Movie to the French Quarter after the show Theaters of New Orleans, by Rene Brunet Jr. and Jack Stewart. and were arrested on a drug charge, tag i n g a g i a n t ball to ra i s e mo n ey f or a lo s t

Show Places

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

SIDN E Y S M I T H P H O T O G R A P H

ma’am,” Simmons says. Johnston remembered how they would improvise services. “We bought two old limousines. One time somebody wanted caviar … well, we would just fix red beans and rice for everybody.” Simmons kept up his legal career, but Johnston continued in the music business, serving for a while as entertainment director of Harrah’s in New Orleans and, until his battle with throat cancer slowed him down, more recently with the Joy Theater. “What I miss most about The Warehouse? You could see so much great talent for such a cheap price,” Johnston says. Nella Scheyer Ludwig dealt more with classical music performers from the 1940s to the ’70s. Jack Belsom, a longtime opera fan, explained that Ludwig first served on the board of the New Orleans Opera Association and then became active with the New Orleans Opera Guild. The guild, Belsom says, was affiliated with the Metropolitan Opera in New York. With those good New York connections, Ludwig was able to help the Opera Guild here put on concerts with “singers, musicians, dancers, whoever she could bring,” Belsom says. The Bolshoi Ballet came to New Orleans in this way as did a Metropolitan Opera production of The Daughter of the Regiment with Joan Sutherland and Luciano Pavarotti. According to Ludwig’s grandson, E.B. “Trip” Ludwig III, Pavarotti stayed at the Ludwig home. “There was a huge storm and the neighborhood flooded. We had to use a Ludwig Buildings, Inc. boom truck to get him to the airport.” Dr. Vivienne Monachino Hayne remembers says that “she was a singer, a pianist, a comedienne – and she was a longtime supporter of my father’s (Frank Monachino) Lyric Theater at Tulane.” Ludwig’s productions were not all with stellar musicians. “She made a great vegetable soup – it took three days,” her grandson says. “And, she had birthday parties in her front yard for kids and grandkids all her life!” When the iconic French Opera House burned in 1919, New Orleanians sought to rebuild it. Impresario Robert Hayne Tarrant had come to the city from South Carolina and had been putting on productions at the opera house as well as for Grunewald’s and Werlein’s, two music stores. Tarrant decided to spearhead fundraising. A committee of local ladies – all music patrons – was set up and a grand ball was held. “The French Opera Trades Ball” had young ladies representing local industries – including the Crescent City Ice Company and the United Fruit Company – serving in the court, with Ellene White as Queen of Trade. After the event, the ladies inquired as to the proceeds, and Tarrant was less than forthcoming. They sued him. Tarrant’s day in court came in 1923. Judge Sam LeBlanc of Civil District Court presided (and was reported to laugh occasionally). The Times-Picayune reporter made sure to note the color of Tarrant’s tie each day, and described his testimony as “suave and modulated.” The “New Orleans society women” suing Tarrant over the ball receipts were Mrs. George Whitney, Mrs. George Penrose, Mrs. Charles Buck, Mrs. Horace Crump, Mrs. Joseph Friend, Mrs. Edouard May and Mrs. Sidney White. They were represented by attorney Monte Lemann. Tarrant’s attorney was Arthur Leopold. The trial included descriptions of an “omelette soufflé luncheon” at Antoine’s when three of the ladies had to block Tarrant’s exit when he became hysterical. Sheriff’s deputies searched Tarrant’s home, “La Cabana,” for missing ball receipts, which Tarrant claimed to have taken out of state overnight. The ladies prevailed. The case was appealed up to the Louisiana State Supreme Court and the verdict upheld. Tarrant couldn’t keep the money raised. In the end, the opera house was never built, but Tarrant didn’t desert the city. His 1965 obituary listed his address on St. Ann Street in the French Quarter – for him that was still center stage. myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

HOME

Charleston Style in Lakeview Alan and Monda Vinturella’s home has the feel of a resort B Y B O N N I E W A R R E N

This page: Located on three lots in Lakeview, George D. Hopkins Jr. (The Hopkins Company Architects) designed the Charleston-style home for Mona and Alan Vinturella. Facing page: The large space with a high ceiling encompasses both the living and dining rooms. Mona, an interior designer, is credited with selecting everything for the home, including the lighting fixtures from Southland Plumbing Supply and Lighting, their business.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

p hotogra p hed b y c H E R Y L G E R B E R

n a q u i et s treet j u s t a f ew block s o f f H arr i s o n A ve n u e

in Lakeview, Mona and Alan Vinturella built a magnificent, stately home reminiscent of the grand historic houses found in Charleston, S.C. Designed by architect George D. Hopkins Jr. (The Hopkins Company Architects), the home presents the ultimate in state-of-the-arts products and construction. “We had lived in Kenner for 27 years when we decided to move to Lakeview and build our dream home,” says Mona, an interior designer. “We always liked the sense of community here and the convenience of the area that includes restaurants and a wide variety of shopping venues. We especially enjoy the pleasant pedestrian feeling about this neighborhood.” The massive iron gates open to the palatial home and pristine grounds where three homes once stood. The couple agrees that their new home, complete with a large front yard swimming pool, Jacuzzi, fountain and nearby putting green gives them the feeling of being in a fine resort. “There is a sense of peace and tranquility as you enter the gates,” says Alan, the owner of Southland Plumbing Supply and Lighting. Then, referring to the size of the house, he adds, “We laughingly call it ‘Villa V.’” It is easy to call it a Charleston villa because the style mimics many of the grand historic houses in that unique city. “We spent a lot of time in Charleston when our children were attending the College of Charleston,” Mona says. “I thought the side porch style that’s prevalent there would offer a fresh approach to the New Orleans architectural style. We definitely felt that George immediately ‘got’ what we wanted from the first time we met with him, and he interpreted our thoughts into an exceptionally beautiful and functional design.”

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

“The Charleston style chosen by Mona and Alan is perfect for this area, while the elevated ‘L’-shaped main floor, porches that overlook the swimming pool and a courtyard flanked by a screened area for recreation and outdoor cooking gives a resort feeling,” Hopkins says. The Vinturellas acted as their own contractors and hired Gary Uhl and Tommy Hayden to serve as their supervisors and advisors. The three-story mansion offers the ultimate in a modern interpretation of a historic style. “We decided to have the main living area on the second floor and use the first level for garages and screened outdoor barbecue,” Mona says. “I love the special Southern charm of having a broad screened porch across the front of the house. It’s my absolute favorite feature of the plan.” Alan took the opportunity to showcase his business by selecting the very latest products for the bathrooms. He used Kohler fixtures such as the 4-foot Greek tub in the guest bedroom, the 6-foot Memoirs tub in another bathroom and the sculptural Kallista Michael Smith tub under the oval window in the master bathroom. There’s also a Kohler Numi toilet that opens and closes on its own in the powder room adjoining the front vestibule. Mona enjoyed the challenge of handling interior design. “My goal was to make our home comfortable,” she says. “I selected everything for beauty and comfort, using lighter colors and softer patterns to keep the tone somewhat elegant, yet relaxed and inviting.” Occupied for a little over a year, the Vinturellas’ home is an architectural masterpiece that perfectly interprets the homeowners’ dreams, the architect’s vision and skill and best of local skilled workmanship. “We wake up each morning and look out from the master bedroom balcony and marvel that we really live here,” says Mona.

Facing page, top: A large island is featured in the kitchen. Facing page, bottom: Designed by Mona and faux finished by Sylvia Thompson of Sylvia T Designs, the doorway between the living room and vestibule adds a dramatic feature to the home. This page, top left: The powder room off the vestibule is a study in elegance: Todd Spriggins of Crescent City Cabinetry crafted the vanity. Top right: The very latest for a grand bathroom is featured in the master bathroom, including sculptural Kallista Michael Smith tub from Kohler thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfectly positioned under the round window. Middle left: The fireplace adds warmth and charm to the breakfast room. Middle right: The built-in bar is hidden behind bi-fold doors in the dining room. Bottom right: Monaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite place is the screened porch. She loves starting the day by enjoying the space that provides a perfect view of the well-planned grounds and pool. myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

THEMENU TABLE TALK

RESTAURANT INSIDER

FOOD

LAST CALL

DINING LISTINGS

Eat New Orleans’ Eggs Dauphine

TABLE TALK:

French Quarter Hideaways PAGE 58 J E F F E R Y J O H N S T on P H O T O G R A P H

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M EN U

T A B L E T A L K

French Quarter Hideaways Dining for locals BY JAY FORMAN

fter

the

d o u b l e - w ha m m y

Mardi Gras and the Super Bowl, we all now have a chance to relax – at least until Jazz Fest. Doubtless that’s especially welcome to residents of the French Quarter, whose front porches served as courtside seats to unprecedented craziness. So where do these folks go for a quiet, neighborhood bite? Here is a look at a few places that cater more to neighbors than to bead-seeking, maundering hordes. While its perch on a sunny corner of Dumaine and Eat New Orleans’ shrimp with Dauphine streets and its floor-to-ceiling windows help butter beans and wedge salad make Eat New Orleans a popular spot for brunch, it’s the food that really delivers. When owner Jarred Zeringue opened the doors on the second weekend of Jazz Fest in 2006, even he was surprised at how quickly it was embraced by the community. “We enjoy great neighborhood support,” he says. A native of Vacherie in St. James Parish, Zeringue’s menu draws on the southern Louisiana fare he grew up with, which gets cozily incorporated into the breakfast and brunch-centric menus. Many dishes are built around his glorious biscuits. Eggs Dumaine, for example, uses one as a foundation before getting layered with grillades and a pair of poached eggs, and then sauced with hollandaise. “We make our grillades with beef,” Zeringue says. “It is almost like a Creole daube – slow cooked and shredded. Veal is kind of a more New Orleans way to cook it, but in the country to eat veal is like a sin.” It is easy to find lighter fare, too, with homemade granola and yogurt parfaits. Even the traditional Two Eggs Breakfast gets health-ified with a side of fresh-cut fruit. But diners wanting more of a challenge will be rewarded with earthier options like Fried Chicken Livers with homemade pepper jelly, as well as Zeringue’s Hogshead Cheese. “My family holds a boucherie every and unassuming. Brunch gets busy and is on a firstyear, so I started to make hogshead cheese for Eat and for Vacherie [his other come, first-served basis, but they do take reservarestaurant just down the street]. It has become very popular.” Perhaps surpristions for dinner. Eat is BYOB and there’s no corkage ingly so. “I thought, well who’s going to order hogshead cheese? But we sell it fee for the first bottle or six-pack ($15 for the next), like crazy.” At Eat it gets served with saltines and homemade hot sauce. which adds to the casual neighborhood appeal. For his Chicken and Dumplings, the biscuit-based dumplings get a quick Homemade preserves and pickled vegetables from poach in chicken stock before getting baked off in an iron skillet. The Shrimp his father’s farm round out the hominess. and Butterbeans, a variant on red beans and rice, is made with a light roux, Chartres Street just off of Jackson Square is where shrimp and butterbeans cooked down and then served over rice. His Caesar one would least expect to find an oasis from the salad dressing is the real deal, sharp with garlic and the bite of anchovy, and hordes, but for two years now Sylvain has been just it’s a joy to eat. that – a hip, low-key respite from the throngs outside. Prices are reasonable for the French Quarter, and the wait staff is friendly

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

JEFFERY JOHNSTON PHOTOGRAPHS

FQ Fare

“When we first opened, we got a lot of Eat New Orleans people who didn’t see gumbo and jamba900 Dumaine St. laya on the menu,” recalls co-owner Sean French Quarter McCusker. “Some of them told me straight 522-7222 to my face that we were going to fail.” But EatNola.com McCusker stuck to his guns. His journalLunch and dinner ism career with Rolling Stone, among Tues.-Sat., brunch other publications, frequently took him to Sat.-Sun., closed New Orleans, where he had reached the Mon. opposite conclusion. “I couldn’t understand why a place like this could not Sylvain make it here,” he says. “It isn’t like we eat 625 Chartres St. red beans and rice every day.” Clearly the 265-8123 naysayers were wrong, and Sylvain has SylvainNola.com been rolling along ever since. Lunch Fri.-Sat., Early on, Sylvain got slapped with the brunch Sun., late“Gastropub” label, but that isn’t quite fair. night dining The sophisticated menu is composed Meauxbar by chef Alex Harrell, a veteran of Table 942 N. Rampart St. One and Ralph’s on the Park. And while 569-9979 there are no white tablecloths – and some Meauxbar.com patrons need to read the menu by the Dinner Tues.-Sat., light of their iPhones – the food can go late-night dining toe-to-toe with just about anywhere else in the city. Popular dishes on the menu include Harrell’s incredibly rich braised beef cheeks over puréed potatoes with black-eyed peas – like an edible hug. Southern flourishes appear throughout the menu, such as the slivered pickled egg in a green salad, and the famous Chick-Syl-vain Sandwich, a play on the low-brow glory that’s the Chick-fil-A sandwich. A recent refresh saw the addition of an American Wagyu beef belly appetizer with a parsnip and scallion pancake, and Veal Sweetbreads done up in a Buffalowing style sauce rounded out with a crisp and cooling apple and celeriac sauce. Of late, Sylvain has gotten a lot of press for its cocktail and bar offerings. (“I was born and raised in Milwaukee, so I’m pretty much a beer-and-a-shot guy, though,” McCusker says.) An impressive selection of single-barrel bourbons is part of the draw, as are their gin-based cocktails such as the Aviation, made with maraschino liquor, lemon and Crème de Violette. Sylvain is open seven days a week and keeps the kitchen light on later than most, which makes it an appealingly sophisticated late-night spot for dining. It has become a popular gathering place for film-industry types, helping to add luster to its cachet. Despite the buzz, it ultimately maintains a corner-pub feel where guests can enjoy quality food and drinks in the heart of Tourist Ground Zero. “The formula works; we’ve been really lucky,” McCusker says.

S A R A E S S E X B R A DL E Y P H O T O G R A P H

Meaux Better Owners of both Eat and Sylvain mentioned Meauxbar as a French Quarter favorite. This dinner-only destination on North Rampart Street opposite Armstrong Park serves up a strong menu of bistro fare with a streak of Indochine exoticism. The ambiance (and prices) are more fine-dining than neighborhood joint, but who can say no to Oyster Salad Pastis, made with flashfried oyster and a creamy Pernod dressing? Reservations recommended. myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M E N U

R E S T A U R A N T IN SID ER

Purloo

Meats and Greets BY ROBERT PEYTON

t u rn 4 4 this m onth ; 4 4 isn ’ t o l d , b u t as I w rite this

I’m recuperating from a back surgery necessitated by pain so bad I was bed-ridden for several weeks. Apparently I’ve reached the age that, when I complain about this sort of thing people respond with, “Yeah, getting old sucks, doesn’t it?” Well, yes, it does, person to whom I have complained, but that isn’t what I want to hear. I want to hear, “You’re not old, Robert,” or “You don’t look 44!” Please try to remember this if you meet me in person.

The Southern Food and Beverage Museum is slated to open before long (1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd.), and along with it chef Ryan Hughes’ restaurant Purloo. Hughes made a name for himself locally at Café Degas for his classic

renditions of French bistro fare and for his imaginative specials. He has been out of the public eye for months after leaving Johnny V’s last year, but he’s recently been cooking on Wednesday nights at the Preole Gardens Guesthouse and Inn (1415 Prytania St.). There he’s been cooking the kind of food that he’ll serve at Purloo, a refined take on Southern cuisine. When I spoke to Hughes recently it was clear he was anxious to get back into the kitchen. He is a talented guy, so it will be a good thing for all of us when he does. Visit SouthernFood.org to learn more about the museum and Purloo.

Emmet’s Fine Meats & Seafood (5618 Jefferson Highway) has been open for a little over two years, and in that time it has developed a loyal following. The butcher shop carries restaurant-quality meats as well as house-made sausages and other value-added items. Emmet’s has standards such as green onion, Italian and andouille sausages, tasso and jerky. They have also got more eclectic flavors as well: the buffalo chicken sausage is made with blue cheese and the turducken sausage combines turkey, chicken and duck meat with the same seasonings used to flavor the actual turduckens available at the shop year-round. You can call them at 733-0901 to find out what’s available at the moment.

Emmet’s Fine Meats & Seafood

Booty’s (800 Louisa St.) is a place that you’d

be hard-pressed to find outside of Bywater. Where else would the bathrooms host monthly rotating art installations? Booty’s serves an international menu of street food including Ecuadorian ceviche, Japanese yakitori, Indian pappadums and Belgian fries. Desserts include Italian doughnuts called zep-

pole, crêpes and fried fruit pies the restaurant intends as an homage to Hubig’s. The portions are tapas-sized, which encourages diners to try a variety of dishes. You can call 266-2887 to find out what’s going on at any given time. The restaurant is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day and you can order food to go at their website, BootysNola.com.

Manhattan Jack’s

Manhattan Jack’s (4930 Prytania St.) opened on Jan. 11 this year, offering chocolates, caramels, creams and brittles, as well as baked goods prepared by Jack Petronella and Coleman Jergen. These guys have hit the ground running, making 25 different breakfast pastries out of their small custom-built kitchen every day. In addition to sweet offerings, they are stuffing house-made croissants with spinach and goat cheese, and biscuits with bacon, egg and cheese. Petronella said they’re particularly proud of their English muffins, and will be doing a version of eggs 58

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Benedict by the time you read this. They will also be offering “classic sandwiches done right” for lunch, which Petronella said they planned to start just after Mardi Gras. The menu will include Cuban, Reuben, Monte Cristo and croque monsieur sandwiches, as well as a crawfish roll that’s Petronella’s nod to his background in New England. Call 897-5551 to find out more, and visit ManhattanJack. com for some particularly pretty pictures of sweet things. And no, I don’t mean pictures of me. Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Email rdpeyton@gmail.com

S A R A E S S E X B R A DL E Y P H O T O G R A P H S

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M EN U

FOOD

St. Patrick’s Day Irish Stew

Feast of St. Patty Stirring it up for the Irish BY DALE CURRY

i k e everything e l se in N e w O r l eans , S t . P atric k ’ s

Day offers a host of food opportunities. If you go to a parade, you come home with enough food for several days. It is like making groceries. I have cooked stuffed bell peppers, cabbage rolls and mashed potatoes with the stuff off floats. All that fun and dinner, too! But sometimes I go for the old standards: Irish stew, Irish soda bread and/or potato-leek soup. Even then, I can use some of the ingredients caught in the air, including potatoes and onions. The Irish traditionally cooked simple food with a lot of lamb and beef and, always, potatoes. You can use lamb or beef in an Irish stew, a great meal to come home to after a parade. Which parade, I don’t know; there are so many, I’ve lost track. The only hurdle is finding the lamb. The first time I ever made an Irish stew, I mistakenly used a leg of lamb. It was delicious but expensive. No, you don’t want to bust the budget for peasant food, and Irish stew, like most stews, is peasant food. With a chill still in the air in March, a good warming stew is just the thing for a crowd drinking Guinness and wearing green. For those who don’t love lamb, a potato-leek soup will hit the spot, accompanied by warm, buttered Irish soda bread. I think the soda is used to offset the buttermilk. At least that’s what my mother told me when it came to cornbread containing buttermilk. I think what “offset” means in this case is to counter the sour taste, but I’m not sure. Being part Irish, I love the parades and the spirit that surrounds them. I feel deeply for those hard-working Irish immigrants who came to New Orleans and

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

built the New Basin Canal, a dangerous project that claimed thousands of lives. A series of epidemics killed many more, and we still call the Uptown area where so many Irish settled in the 1800s “The Irish Channel” although people of all nationalities live there now. I think we all feel Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. It is a kissing, drinking, happy time, the last of our frolicking mania for a while as we move on to more sober observances such as Easter and Mother’s Day. For the Irish stew, look for lamb shoulder or stew meat. Since you may not find these, look for lamb shoulder blade or arm chops with the bones in. Bones give any soup or stew a lot of pizzazz. I usually make stews on top of the stove, but Martha Stewart impressed me with one done in the oven; it’s a layered affair that simply cooks itself in the oven, and sometimes I love taking the simple way. This is not her recipe per se, but I used her idea of baking in the oven. Make it easy on yourself by cooking the stew and/ or soup the day before the parade. Then, when you get home, all you have to do is whip up the soda EUGENIA UHL PHOTOGRAPH

bread to serve piping-hot alongside them. By all means, accompany with pints of Guinness.

St. Patrick’s Day Irish Stew 2-3 pounds lamb shoulder or stew meat* Freshly ground pepper and salt to taste 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large onions, in 1/4-inch slices 2 large cloves garlic, minced 2-3 carrots, sliced lengthwise, then halved 2 large potatoes, sliced hori zontally into ¼-inch rounds 4 cups beef stock 1 teaspoon thyme leaves 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cut lamb into 1-inch cubes. Heat oil in a large heavy pot with an ovenproof and tight-fitting top. Brown lamb in oil on all sides. Remove from pot. Add onions and sauté until wilted. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute more. Remove onions and garlic from the pot, and

remove pot from heat. Place half the potatoes in the pot. Add half the onions and garlic, half the carrots, then half the meat. Repeat with potatoes, onions and garlic, then carrots. Pour stock over all and sprinkle with seasonings and Worcestershire. Add layer of meat on top. Cover pot and place in oven for 2 hours without stirring. When ready to serve, sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6 to 8. *Note: If lamb shoulder or stew meat is not available, you can use shoulder blade or arm chops, layering whole or half chops instead of cubes. Trim the chops of fat.

Irish Soda Bread 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 Tablespoons sugar 1 egg 1 Tablespoon caraway seeds 3/4 cup raisins 1 1/2 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Tropical Isle

Skinny Grenade® (With less calories and sugar.)

4-5 Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 3-4 medium leeks 1/2 stick butter 1 medium onion, chopped 6 green onions, chopped, white and green parts separated 2 stalks celery with tops, chopped 2 large cloves garlic, minced 2 14.5-ounce cans chicken stock 3 cups whole milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup half-and-half 2 Tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

7 days a week!

The Hand Grenade® Same GREAT Taste!

Potato-Leek Soup

LIVE MUSIC

New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink®

OR THE

Mix dry ingredients in a bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl, beat egg. Gradually whisk in dry ingredients and then caraway seeds. Add raisins and buttermilk and mix until blended. Place in an 8-inch pan sprayed with cooking spray. Bake for 30 minutes. If top isn’t browned, place under broiler for a couple of minutes until slightly brown. Serve warm with butter. Serves 6 to 8.

TROPICAL ISLE® BOURBON 721 Bourbon Street (corner of Orleans Ave) TROPICAL ISLE® ORIGINAL 600 Bourbon Street (corner Toulouse) TROPICAL ISLE® BAYOU CLUB 610 Bourbon Street LITTLE TROPICAL ISLE® 435 Bourbon Street FUNKY PIRATE 727 Bourbon Street Our specialty cups are proudly made in the USA. www.facebook/tropicalisle

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Optional toppings: crumbled bacon, shredded sharp cheddar cheese, green onion tops and/or sour cream

Prepare potatoes and cut off and discard dark green tops, leaving 1 inch of light green tops. Slice off root, slice leeks in halves lengthwise and rinse well. Cut in thin slices. Melt butter in a large heavy pot and sauté leeks, onions and celery until soft. Add garlic and sauté another minute. Add chicken stock, milk and seasonings, stir and add potatoes. Cover and simmer until potatoes are done. Using a hand blender, purée mixture in the pot. Or, remove to a blender or food processor and purée. Add half-and-half. When ready to serve, add 1 tablespoon butter and heat to serve hot. Place parsley on top of soup if in a tureen, or top individual servings with parsley and any desired optional toppings. Serves 6.

THE MENU

LAST CALL

Marching in with the Saints BY TIM MCNALLY

f yo u l ive d any w here e l se , w hat d oes March m ean ?

Rain, still chilly, not much going on and planning a vacation for June. In New Orleans, March means festivals, parties, parades, cabbage, fava beans, beads, green beer and good ethnic food. March is that month when we honor two great countries and their saints – St. Patrick of Ireland and St. Joseph of Italy – and we do that in our own way, with blow-out parties and parades. Lots of them. The two saints have feast days that fall within two days of each other, March 17 and 19, respectively, and so we devote at least 10 days to celebrate. Sounds about right. No one cares really what your last name is – whether it contains a “Mc” or ends in a vowel – on these special days you’re in the homeland and part of the festivities. Grab something green, then green and red and join in. You are among family.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Negroni Cocktail 1 part Campari 1 part Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth 1 part Bombay Sapphire Orange peel

In an Old Fashioned glass, combine first three ingredients. Add ice. Stir well. Garnish with orange peel.

S A R A E S S E X B R A DL E Y P H O T O G R A P H , sty l ing

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

THE MENU

$= Average entrée price of $5-$10; $$=$1115; $$$=$16-20; $$$$=$21-25; $$$$$=$25 and up.

5 Fifty 5 Restaurant Marriott Hotel, 555 Canal St., 553-5555, French Quarter, 555Canal. com. B, L, D daily. This restaurant offers innovative American fare such as lobster macaroni and cheese, seasonal Gulf fish with crab and mâche salad with boudin. Many of the dishes receive an additional touch from their woodburning oven. $$$$

7 on Fulton 701 Fulton St., 525-7555, CBD/ Warehouse, 7onFulton.com. B, L, D daily. Upscale and contemporary dining destination in the Warehouse District. $$$$

13 Restaurant and Bar 517 Frenchmen St., 942-1345, Faubourg Marigny, 13Monaghan. com. B, L, D daily. Open until 4 a.m. Late-night deli catering to hungry club-hoppers along Frenchmen Street. Bar and excellent jukebox make this a good place to refuel. $

DINING GUIDE Andrea’s Restaurant 3100 19th St., 8348583, Metairie, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Indulge in osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. New Orleans Magazine Honor Roll honoree 2009. $$$ Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422,

“Partailles” – something larger than an appetizer but smaller than an entrée. $$$

Basil Leaf Restaurant 1438 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-9001, Uptown, BasilLeafThai.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily. Thai food and sushi bar with a contemporary spin is served in this date-friendly establishment; private rooms available. $$

Boucherie 8115 Jeannette St., 862-5514, Riverbend, Boucherie-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, Chef Nathaniel Zimet offes excellent ingredients, presented simply. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2009. $$

French Quarter, Antoines.com. L Mon-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is á la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms are available. $$$$$

Bayona 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, French

Arnaud’s 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, French Quarter, Arnauds.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brulot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame in the French Quarter; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$

The Beach House 2401 N. Woodlawn St., 456-7470, Metairie. L Wed-Fri, D daily. Gumbo, steaks, lobsters, burgers and seafood are accompanied by live music each and every night. $$$

Audubon Clubhouse 6500 Magazine St.,

Besh Steak Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal

892-5837, Abita Springs, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Famous for its Purple Haze and Turbodog brews, Abita serves up better-thanexpected pub food in their namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$

212-5282, Uptown. B, L Tue-Sat. Brunch Sun. Closed Mon. Nested among the oaks in Audubon Park, the beautifully-situated Clubhouse is open to the public and features a kid-friendly menu with New Orleans tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu for adults. $$

Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville St., 522-

August Moon 3635 Prytania St., 899-5129,

Abita Brew Pub 72011 Holly St., (985)

space, renovated largely by Laurentino himself, is charming. $

Quarter, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weatherpermitting. $$$$$

St., 533-6111, CBD/Warehouse District, HarrahsNewOrleans.com. D daily. Acclaimed Chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007. $$$$$

Bistro Daisy 5831 Magazine St., 899-6987,

5973, French Quarter; 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, Metairie; 1202 N. Highway 190, (985) 246-6155, Covington; AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

899-5122, Uptown, MoonNola.com. L, D MonFri, D Sat. Lots of vegetarian offerings and reasonable prices make this dependable Chinese/ Vietnamese place a popular choice for students and locals. Take-out and delivery available. $

Uptown, BistroDaisy.com. D, Tue-Sat. Chef Anton Schulte and his wife Diane’s bistro, named in honor of their daughter, serves creative and contemporary bistro fare in a romantic setting along Magazine Street. The signature Daisy Salad is a favorite. $$$$

Aloha Sushi 1051 Annunciation St., 566-

Austin’s 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533,

Blue Plate Café 1330 Prytania St., 309-

0021, Warehouse District, SunRayGrill.com. L, D Mon-Sun. A large list of rolls, hot rice bowls, Asian-inspired soups, salads, cocktails and more. Visit daily between 11-6:30 p.m. for Sake Hour: half-priced sake and three rolls for the price of two. $$

A Mano 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 508-9280, Warehouse District, AManoNola.com. L Fri, D Mon-Sat. A Mano is Adolfo Garcia’s take on authentic regional Italian cuisine. Executive chef Joshua Smith handles day-to-day duties at this Warehouse District spot. “A mano” means “by hand” in Italian; fitting for a restaurant where much of the pasta and charcuterie are made in-house. $$

Ancora 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, Uptown, AncoraPizza.com. L Fri-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples keeps pizza connoisseurs coming back to this Freret Street hot-spot. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$

Metairie, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s newest upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$

The Avenue Pub 1732 St. Charles Ave., 586-9243, Uptown, TheAvenuePub.com. L, D daily (kitchen open 24 hours a day). With more than 47 rotating draft beers, this pub also offers food including a cheese plate from St. James, a crab cake sandwich and the “Pub Burger.” $ Bacchanal Fine Wines and Spirits 600 Poland Ave., 948-9111, Bywater, BacchanalWine.com. L, D daily. The pop-up that started it all, this ongoing backyard music and food fest in the heart of Bywater carries the funky flame. Best of all, the front of house is a wine shop. $$

Barcelona Tapas 720 Dublin St., 8619696, Riverbend, LetsEat.at/BarcelonaTapas. D Tue-Sun. Barcelona Tapas is chef-owner Xavier Laurentino’s homage to the small-plates restaurants he knew from his hometown of Barcelona. The tapas are authentic, and the

Brennan’s 417 Royal St., 525-9711, French Quarter, BrennansNewOrleans.com. Br, L, D daily. The institution that turned breakfast into a celebration and introduced bananas Foster to the world is one of the city’s most storied destinations. Enjoy a brandy milk punch in the courtyard while you’re there. $$$$$

Brigtsen’s 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Uptown, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally-famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy Riverbend cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$ Broken Egg Cafe 200 Girod St., (985) 231-7125, Mandeville. B, Br, L daily. Breakfastcentric café in turn-of-the-century home offers a sprawling assortment of delicious items both healthy and decadent. $$

Brooklyn Pizzeria 4301 Veterans Blvd., 833-1288, Metairie, EatBrooklyn.net. L, D daily (Drive thru/take out). Pie shop on Vets specializes in New York-style thin crust. The pizza is the reason to come, but sandwiches and salads are offered as well. $ Broussard’s 819 Conti St., 581-3866, French

9500, Uptown. B, L Mon-Fri, B Sat. Breakfasts and lunches are the hallmarks of this neighborhood spot. The Ignatius sandwich comes equipped with 10 inches of paradise. Breakfast is served all day on Sat. $

Quarter, Broussards.com. D daily. Chef-owner Gunter Preuss brings his pedigree and years of experience to the table in offering up some of the city’s best Creole cuisine in an opulent French Quarter setting. New Orleans Magazine Honor Roll honoree 2006. $$$$$

The Bombay Club Prince Conti Hotel,

Byblos 1501 Metairie Road, 834-9773,

830 Conti St., 586-0972, French Quarter, TheBombayClub.com. D Mon-Sun. Popular martini bar appointed with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$

Metairie; 3218 Magazine St., 894-1233, Uptown; 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 8307333 Metairie; 29 McAlister Drive, Tulane University; ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$

Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., 524-3386, CBD/Warehouse District, TheBonTonCafe.com. L, D Mon-Fri. A local favorite for the old-school business lunch crowd, it specializes in local seafood and Cajun dishes. $$$$

Bouche 840 Tchoupitoulas St., 267-7485, Warehouse District, BoucheNola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Bouche is a mix of lounge, cigar bar and restaurant with an open kitchen serving largely Southern food in portions Bouche calls

Café Adelaide Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CBD/Warehouse District, CafeAdelaide.com. B Mon-Sun, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sun. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for businessmen and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$ Café Burnside Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, Darrow, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic

New Spring $20.13 Menu at Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com

If you asked a local to tell you about Antoine’s Restaurant, they might mention that Oysters Rockefeller was invented there. They might tell you it’s the oldest family-run restaurant in the country or that Franklin D. Roosevelt ate there. What they need to tell you is that the great value $20.13 lunch served Monday through Saturday is just about to change to include new spring items. If they fail to bore you with details of the delicious Sunday Jazz Brunch, then question whether they’re local at all. – M irella cameran

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$

Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, Mid-City, CafeDegas.com. L Wed-Sat, D WedSun, Br Sun. Light French bistro food including salads and quiche make this indoor/outdoor boîte a Faubourg St. John favorite. $$$

Café du Monde 800 Decatur St., 525-0454, French Quarter; One Poydras Suite 27, 5870841, New Orleans; 3301 Veterans Blvd., Suite 104, 834-8694, Metairie; 1401 West Esplanade, Suite 100, 468-3588, Kenner; 4700 Veterans Blvd., 888-9770, Metairie; 1814 N. Causeway Approach, Suite 1, (985) 951-7474, Mandeville; CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ Café Equator 2920 Severn Ave., 888-4772, Metairie, cadeequator.com. L, D Mon-Sun. Very good Thai food across the street from Lakeside Mall. Offers a quiet and oftoverlooked dining option in a crowded part of town. $$

Café Freret 7329 Freret St., 861-7890, Uptown, CafeFreret.com. B, L, D Fri-Wed. Convenient location near Tulane and Loyola universities makes this a place for students (and dogs) to indulge in decadent breakfasts, casual lunches and tasty dinners – and their “A la Collar” menu. $$

Café at Gambino’s 4821 Veteran’s Memorial Blvd., 885-3620, Metairie, Gambinos.com. L Mon-Fri. Café nested in Gambino’s Bakery is a favorite local lunch spot featuring muffelattas, salads and soups. Afterward, pick up some Italian cookies to

take back to the office. $

Café Giovanni 117 Decatur St., 529-2154, Downtown, CafeGiovanni.com. D Mon-Sun. Live opera singers three nights a week round out the atmosphere at this contemporary Italian dining destination. The menu offers a selection of Italian specialties tweaked with a Creole influence and their Belli Baci happy hour adds to the atmosphere. $$$$

Café Luna 802 Nashville Ave., 269-2444, Uptown. B, L daily. Charismatic coffee shop in a converted house offers a range of panini, caffeinated favorites and free Wi-Fi. The front porch is a prime spot for people-watching along adjacent Magazine Street. $ Café Maspero 601 Decatur St., 523-6250, French Quarter. L, D daily. Tourists line up for their generous portions of seafood and large deli sandwiches. $

Café Minh 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, MidCity, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri., D Mon-Sat. Closed Sun. Chef Minh Bui brings his fusion-y touch with Vietnamese cuisine to this corner location. French accents and a contemporary flair make this one of the more notable crosscultural venues in town. $$

Café Negril 606 Frenchmen St., 944-4744, Marigny. D daily. Frenchman Street music club draws locals in with their lineup of live Reggae and blues. Tacos and BBQ in back are a plus for late-night revelers. $ Café Nino 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 8659200, Carrollton. L, D daily. Non-descript exterior belies old-school Italian hideaway serving up red-sauce classics like lasagna, along with some of the more under-the-radar New York-style thin crust pizza in town. $$

Café Opera 541 Bourbon St., 648-2331, Inside Four Points by Sheraton, French Quarter. B, L daily, D Thurs-Sat. Chef Philippe

Andreani serves Creole and Continental classics on the site of the old French Opera House. Choices include crabmeat beignets with corn maque choux as well as fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade. Validated parking is offered for dine-in. $$$

Cake Café 2440 Chartres St., 943-0010, Marigny, NolaCakes.com. B, L daily. The name may read cakes but this café offers a whole lot more, including fresh baked goods and a full breakfast menu along with sandwiches. A popular place to while away a slow New Orleans morning with a coffee and a slice. $

Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 3092679, Uptown; 540 Chartres St., 533-6250, Downtown. B, L, D daily, until 1 a.m. Sun-Thu and 3 a.m. Fri-Sat. The venerable diner has reopened following an extensive renovation and change in ownership (in 2006). Patrons can rest assured that its essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. The new downtown location has a liquor license and credit cards are now accepted. $

Capdeville 520 Capdeville St., 371-5161, French Quarter, CapdevilleNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Capdeville is an upscale bar-bistro with a short but interesting menu of food that’s a mix of comfort and ambition. Burgers are on offer, but so are fried red beans and rice – a take on calas or Italian arancini. $$ Carmo 527 Julia St., 875-4132, Warehouse District, CafeCarmo.com. L Mon-Sat., D TueSat. Caribbean-inspired fare offers a creative array of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free fare in a sleek location on Julia Street. One of the few places in the city where healthy dining is celebrated rather than accommodated. $$

Carmelo Ristorante 1901 Highway 190, (985) 624-4844, Mandeville,

RistoranteCarmelo.com. L Fri-Sun, D MonSat. Italian trattoria serves old-world classics. Private rooms available. $$

Casamento’s 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, Uptown, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L TueSat, D Thu-Sat. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ CC’s Community Coffee House Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $

Chateau du Lac 2037 Metairie Road, 831-3773, Old Metairie, ChateauduLacBistro. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. A Provençal-inspired atmosphere and French wine round out the appeal. $$$$

Checkered Parrot 132 Royal St., 592-1270, French Quarter, CheckeredParrot.com. B, L, D Mon-Sun. The Checkered Parrot is an upscale sports bar with a large menu, featuring nachos, fajitas, wings in seven flavors, wraps and burgers, and an outdoor patio. $$ Chiba 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Carrollton, chiba-nola.com. L Thurs-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant on Oak Street features an extensive list of special rolls, steamed buns and fusion-y fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Late night hours are a plus. $$$ Chophouse New Orleans 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, CBD, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster,

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M E N U redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

Clancy’s 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, Uptown, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$

Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CBD/Warehouse District, CochonRestaurant. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this Warehouse District hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. New Orleans Magazine named Link Chef of the Year 2009. Reservations strongly recommended. $$ Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, Uptown, CommandersPalace. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. The Grande Dame in the Garden District is going strong under the auspices of Chef Tory McPhail. The turtle soup might be the best in the city, and its weekend Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

Cooter Brown’s 509 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-9104, Uptown, CooterBrowns.com. L, D daily. Riverbend-area sports bar serves up the city’s largest selection of beers along with great bar food. The cheese fries are a rite of passage, and the Radiator’s Special poor boy makes for a great late-night meal. $

Copeland’s 701 Veterans Blvd., 831-3437, Metairie; 1001 S. Clearview Parkway, 6207800, Jefferson; 1319 West Esplanade Ave., 617-9146, Kenner; 1700 Lapalco Blvd., 364-1575, Harvey; 680 N. Highway 190, (985) 809-9659, Covington; 1337 Gause Blvd., (985) 643-0001, Slidell; CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Copeland’s Cheesecake Bistro 4517 Veterans Blvd., 454-7620, Metairie; 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, Garden District; CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily. Dessert fans flock to this sweet-centric Copeland establishment which also offers extensive lunch and dinner menus. $$$

Coquette 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, Uptown, Coquette-Nola.com. Br Sun, L WedSat, D Mon-Sat. A bistro located at the corner of Washington and Magazine streets. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael Stoltzfus (New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Chef 2009). $$$

Corky’s Bar-B-Q Restaurant 4243 Veterans Blvd., 887-5000, Metairie, CorkysBarBQ.com. L, D daily. Memphis-based

DINING GUIDE barbecue chain offers good hickory-smoked ribs, pork and beef in a family setting with catering service available. $

Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St., 5227261, French Quarter, CourtOfTwoSisters. com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Crabby Jack’s 428 Jefferson Highway, 8332722, Jefferson. L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s chef and owner Jack Leonardi. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ The Creole Grille 5241 Veterans Blvd., 889-7992, Metairie, TheCreoleGrille.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This quaint, upscale restaurant offers a variety of classic New Orleans cuisine, fresh fish and homemade soups and salads with early bird and daily chef specials. $$

Crépes a la Carte 1039 Broadway St., 866-236, Uptown, CrepeCaterer.com. B, L, D daily. Open late. An extensive menu of tasty crêpes, both savory and sweet, make this a great spot for a quick bite for college students and locals. $

Crescent City Brewhouse 527 Decatur St., 522-0571, French Quarter, CrescentCityBrehouse.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. Contemporary brewpub features an eclectic menu complimenting its freshly-brewed wares. Live jazz and good location make it a fun place to meet up. $$$ Crescent City Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, Mid-City, CrescentCitySteaks. com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses, it’s a throwback in every sense of the term. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get at Crescent City. New Orleans Magazine’s Steakhouse of the Year 2009 and Honor Roll honoree 2007. $$$$

Criollo 214 Royal St., Hotel Monteleone, 681-4444, French Quarter, HotelMonteleone. com/Criollo/. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$

The Crystal Room Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111, CBD/Warehouse District, LePavillon.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Franco-American cuisine with Louisiana influences is served in the environs of the Le Pavillon Hotel. The Southern-style breakfast features its decadent Bananas Foster Waffle “Le Pavillon.” $$$

Dakota 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 8923712, Covington, RestaurantCuvee.com/ Dakota. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$ The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave., 8950858, Uptown, TheDelachaise.com. L Fri-Sat, D daily. Elegant bar food fit for the wine connoisseur; kitchen open late. $$

Dick and Jenny’s 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, Uptown, DickAndJennys.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, French Quarter, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily. Classic Creole dishes such as redfish on the halfshell and baked oysters are served with classic Brennan’s style at this French Quarter outpost. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, French Quarter, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood in a New Orleans setting with the usual Brennan’s family flair. $$$$$

Domenica The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, CBD, DomenicaRestaurant. com. L, D daily. Executive Chef Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine in John Besh’s sophisticated new restaurant. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées, feature locally raised products, some from Besh’s Northshore farm. $$$$ Domilise’s 5240 Annunciation St., 8999126, Uptown. L, D Mon-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $

Dong Phuong 14207 Chef Menteur Highway, 254-0296, N.O. East. L Wed-Mon. Vietnamese bakery and restaurant in the community of Versailles makes great banh mi sandwiches and interesting baked goods both savory and sweet. Unbeatable prices. $

Drago’s 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, Metairie; Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, CBD/Warehouse District; DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Raucous but good-natured atmosphere makes this a fun place to visit. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Parkway Bakery & Tavern returns to “Poor Boy” name 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys.com

When you have dedicated yourself to making the best sandwiches possible for more than 101 years, it shouldn’t be a surprise that you’ve got it right! That is the case at Parkway Bakery and Tavern, where they have perfected the art and returned to the original name of the New Orleans sandwich, the “Poor Boy” not the “Po’Boy.” Whether you choose yours to be stuffed with roast beef and gravy or golden fried shrimp, it will come classically “dressed” on New Orleans-style French bread. It is no wonder that’s where President Obama stopped to enjoy his taste of the city. – M irella cameran 68

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Dry Dock Cafe & Bar 133 Delaronde St., 361-8240, Algiers, TheDryDockCafe.com. Br Sun, L, D daily. Fancier daily specials have been added to the menu of this casual neighborhood seafood joint in historic Algiers Point near the ferry landing. Burgers, sandwiches and fried seafood are the staples. $$

El Gato Negro 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, French Quarter, ElGatoNegroNola. com. B Sat-Sun, L, D daily. Popular spot near the Frenchmen Street clubs serves up authentic Central Mexican cuisine along with handmuddled mojitos and margaritas made with fresh-squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Elizabeth’s 601 Gallier St., 944-9272, Bywater, Elizabeths-Restaurant.com. B, L TueFri, D Tue-Sat, Br Sat-Sun. This eclectic local restaurant draws rave reviews for its Praline Bacon and distinctive Southern-inspired brunch specials. $$$

Emeril’s 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, CBD/Warehouse District, Emerils.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this Warehouse District landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

Fat Hen Grocery 7457 St. Charles Ave., 266-2921, Riverbend, FatHenGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Breakfast gets re-imagined and dressed up at this diner headed by Chef Shane Pritchett, formerly of Emeril’s Delmonico. The house special is the Womlette, an omelet baked on a waffle. $$ Feelings Cafe 2600 Chartres St., 9452222, Faubourg Marigny, FeelingsCafe.com. D Thu-Sun, Br Sun. Romantic ambiance and skillfully created dishes, such as veal d’aunoy, make dining here on the patio a memorable experience. A piano bar on Fridays adds to the atmosphere. $$$$ Fellini’s Café 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 4882155, Mid-City, FellinisNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. With décor inspired by its namesake Italian filmmaker, this casual indoor/outdoor spot on Carrollton Avenue serves large portions of reasonably-priced Mediterranean specialties such as pizza, pastas and hummus. $ Fiesta Latina 1924 Airline Drive, 469-5792, Kenner, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D Tue-Sun. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$

Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, Mid-City, FiveHappiness.com. L, D Mon-Sun. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house baked duck. It’s a popular choice for families as well. $$

Flaming Torch 737 Octavia St., 895-0900, Uptown, FlamingTorchNola.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. French classics including a tasty onion soup make this a nice place for a slightly upscale lunch while shopping along Magazine Street. $$ Frank’s 933 Decatur St., 525-1602, French Quarter, FranksRestaurantNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Locally inspired Italian sandwiches such as muffulettas and Genoa salami poor boys are served here in the heart of the French Quarter. $$$

Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, MidCity, GraciousBakery.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Boutique bakery in the ground floor of the new Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options are available as well. $

The Green Goddess 307 Exchange Alley,

Galatoire’s 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, French Quarter, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

301-3347, French Quarter, GreenGoddessNola. com. Br, L daily, D Thu-Sun. Located in a tiny space, the Green Goddess is one of the most imaginative restaurants in New Orleans. The menu is constantly changing, and chefs Chris DeBarr (New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Chef 2006) and Paul Artigues always have ample vegetarian options. Combine all of that with a fantastic selection of drinks, wine and beer, and it’s the total (albeit small) package. $$

The Galley Seafood Restaurant 2535

The Grill Room Windsor Court Hotel,

Metairie Road, 832-0955, Metairie. L, D TueSat. A great local place for seafood, both fried and boiled. Famous for its softshell crab poor boy, a Jazz Fest favorite. $$

Gautreau’s 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, Uptown, GautreausRestaurant.com. D, Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations in a clubby setting nested deep within a residential neighborhood. New Orleans Magazine named Sue Zemanick Chef of the Year 2008. $$$$$ Gott Gourmet Café 3100 Magazine St., 522-7902, Uptown, GottGourmetCafe.com. L, Tue-Fri, D, Tue-Sun. Upscale-casual restaurant serves a variety of specialty sandwiches, salads and wraps, like the Chicago-style hot dog and the St. Paddy’s Day Massacre – Chef Gotter’s take on the Rueben. $$

Gracious Bakery + Café 1000 S. Jeff

300 Gravier St., 522-1994, CBD/Warehouse District, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Jazz Brunch on Sunday with live music. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. $$$$$

GW Fins 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), French Quarter, GWFins.com. D daily. To ensure the best possible flavors at GW Fins, owners Gary Wollerman and Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak by flying in products from around the globe. That commitment to freshness and quest for unique variety are two of the reasons why the menu is printed daily. $$$$$

Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, CBD/Warehouse District, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling Chef Donald Link’s (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year

2009) menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

Hevin 5015 Magazine St., 895-2246, Uptown. L, D Mon-Fri. Chef Kevin Vizard brings casual, family-friendly fare to a quiet, residential stretch of Magazine Street. “Po-Ninis”, i.e. pressed poor boys, are a specialty, and daily “hot plates” are offered as well. $ Horinoya 920 Poydras St., 561-8914, CBD/ Warehouse District. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Excellent Japanese dining in an understated and oft-overlooked location. The chu-toro is delicious and the selection of authentic Japanese appetizers is the best in the city. $$$ Hoshun Restaurant 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, Garden District, HoshunRestaurant. com. L, D daily. Hoshun offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Their five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good as well. $$

House of Blues 225 Decatur St., 529-BLUE (2583), French Quarter, HouseOfBlues.com. L, D daily. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Surprisingly good menu makes this a compliment to the music in the main room. Patio seating is available as well. $$

Il Posto Café 4607 Dryades St., 895-

Metairie, Impastatos.com. D daily. Bustling Italian restaurant on the edge of Fat City serves homemade pasta in a convivial atmosphere. Chef/Owner Joe Impastato greets guests warmly and treats them like family. The prix fixe options are a good way to taste a lot for not much money. $$$$

Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 5298811, French Quarter. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$ Iris 321 N. Peters St., 299-3944, French Quarter, IrisNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon, Wed-Sat. This inviting bistro offers sophisticated fare in a charming setting. The veal cheek ravioli is a winner. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2006. $$$$ Jack Dempsey’s 738 Poland Ave., 9439914, Bywater, JackDempseysLLC.com. L Tue-Fri, D Wed-Sat. Local favorite nestled deep in the heart of the Bywater is known for its stuffed flounder and baked macaroni served in generous portions. $$$

Jacques-Imo’s Cafe 8324 Oak St., 8610886, Uptown, JacquesimosCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere are the cornerstones of this Oak Street institution. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$

2620, Uptown, ilPostoCafe-Nola.com. B, L, D Tue-Sat, B, L Sun. Italian café specializes in pressed panini, like their Milano, featuring sopressata, Fontina, tomatoes and balsamic on ciabatta. Soups, imported coffee and H&H bagels make this a comfortable neighborhood spot to relax with the morning paper. $

Jamila’s Café 7808 Maple St., 866-4366, Uptown. D Tue-Sun. Intimate and exotic bistro serving Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The Grilled Merguez is a Jazz Fest favorite and vegetarian options are offered. $$

Impastato’s 3400 16th St., 455-1545,

1104 Decatur St., 592-2565, French

Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Café

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M E N U

DINING GUIDE

Quarter, MargaritavilleNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Parrotheads and other music lovers flock to Jimmy’s outpost along the more local-friendly stretch of Decatur. Strong bar menu and stronger drinks keep them coming back. $$

daily. Burgers are the name of the game here at this restaurant which shares a pedigree with Snug Harbor and Port of Call. Rounded out with a loaded baked potato, their halfpound patties are sure to please. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $

Magazine St., 581-9680, CBD/Warehouse District, LiborioCuban.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Authentic Cuban favorites such as Ropa Vieja and pressed Cuban sandwiches along with great specials make this a popular lunch choice. $$$

Joey K’s 3001 Magazine St., 891-0997, Uptown, JoeyKsRestaurant.com. L, D MonSat. A true neighborhood New Orleans restaurant with daily lunch plates keeps it real along this rapidly gentrifying stretch of Magazine Street. Red beans and rice are classic. $

La Macarena Pupuseria & Latin Cafe

Lil’ Lizzy’s 1500 Esplanade Ave., 569-8997, Mid-City. B Mon-Sat, L Mon-Fri. Spot local and national politicos dining at this favored Creole soul restaurant known for homey classics like fried chicken and Trout Baquet. $

The Joint 701 Mazant St., 949-3232, Bywater, AlwaysSmokin.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Some of the city’s best barbecue can be had at this locally owned and operated favorite in Bywater. $

Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, Uptown; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, Mid-City. L, D Mon-Sun. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $ Jung’s Golden Dragon 3009 Magazine St., Uptown, JungsGoldenDragon2.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes, dumplings and a Beijing-style breakfast on the weekends. This is one of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

Kosher Cajun New York Deli and Grocery 3520 N. Hullen St., 888-2010, Metairie, KosherCajun.com. L Mon-Fri & Sun, D Mon-Thu. Great kosher meals and complete kosher grocery in the rear make this Metairie eatery a unique destination. The matzo ball soup is a winner and catering is available for parties of any size. $

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St., 524-7394, French Quarter, ChefPaul.com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

Kyoto 4920 Prytania St., 891-3644, Uptown, KyotoNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood sushi restaurant where the regulars order off-the-menu rolls. $$ La Boca 857 Fulton St., 525-8205, Warehouse District, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse in the blossoming Fulton Street corridor specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2006. $$$ Lakeview Harbor 911 Harrison Ave., 4864887, Lakeview, Lakeview-Harbor.com. L, D

8120 Hampson St., 862-5252, Uptown. L, D Mon-Fri, Br,L, D Sat & Sun. This cash-only and BYOB restaurant has recently overhauled their menu, now including a large selection of vegan and vegetarian items, as well as a tapas menu. $$

La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, Uptown, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere quickly made this place an Uptown darling. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ La Provence 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, Lacombe, LaProvenceRestaurant. com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. John Besh (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) upholds time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards his guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property, an elegant French colonial stucco house. $$$$$

La Thai Uptown 4938 Prytania St., 8998886, Uptown, LaThaiUptown.com. L, D TueSun. Uptown outpost of the Chauvin family’s ingredient-driven Thai-Cajun fusion cuisine. The summer rolls are good as is the tom kar gai soup. Lunch specials are a good deal and vegetarian dishes are offered as well. $$ Latil’s Landing Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, Darrow, HoumasHouse.com. L Sun, D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantation-style cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$

Le Meritage 1001 Toulouse, 522-8800, French Quarter, LeMeritageRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. This restaurant blends fine wines with Southern-flavored cuisine for a memorable fine-dining experience in a casual environment. Chef Michael Farrell’s well-rounded menu features suggested wine and food pairings, along with full or half servings both by the glass and by the plate. Complimentary valet parking. $$$

Le Salon Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 596-4773, CBD/Warehouse District. L Buffet Mon-Fri. Also, Afternoon Tea, ThuSun, Seating at 2 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. Formal afternoon tea with harpist or string quartet served in a sophisticated atmosphere. A local mother-daughter tradition. $$

Liborio’s Cuban Restaurant 321

Lilette 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, Uptown, LiletteRestaurant.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro on Magazine Street. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

Lola’s 3312 Esplanade Ave., 488-6946, Mid-City. D daily. Garlicky Spanish dishes and great paella make this artsy Faubourg St. John boîte a hipster destination. $$$

Lüke 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, CBD, LukeNewOrleans.com. Br Sat-Sun, B, L, D daily. John Besh (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) and executive chef Matt Regan characterize the cuisine “Alsace meets New Orleans in an authentic brasserie setting.” Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made patés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2007. $$$

Mahony’s 3454 Magazine St., 899-3374, Uptown, MahonysPoBoys.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Along with the usual poor boys, this sandwich shop serves up a Grilled Shrimp and Fried Green Tomato version dressed with remoulade sauce. Sandwich offerings are augmented by a full bar. $

Mandina’s 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MidCity, MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Quintessential New Orleans neighborhood institution reopened following an extensive renovation. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the same food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

Maple Street Café 7623 Maple St., 3149003, Uptown. L, Mon-Sat, D, Mon-Sun. Casual dinner spot serving Mediterraneaninspired pastas and entrées, along with heartier fare such as duck and filet mignon. $$

The Marigny Brasserie 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, Faubourg Marigny, MarignyBrasserie.com. B, L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the Wedge of Lettuce salad and innovative cocktails like the Cucumber Cosmo. $$$ Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmeer Ave., 8967300, Metairie, MartinWine.com. L daily. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch

specials, towering burgers, hearty soups, salads and giant, deli-style sandwiches. $

Mat & Naddie’s 937 Leonidas St., 8619600, Uptown, MatAndNaddies.com. L MonFri, D Thu-Mon. Cozy converted house along River Road serves up creative and eclectic regionally-inspired fare. Crab cakes with cucumber slaw makes for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$

Maximo’s Italian Grill 1117 Decatur St., 504.586-8883, French Quarter, MaximosGrill. com. D daily. Italian destination on Decatur Street features a sprawling menu including housemade salumi and antipasti as well as old school classics like Veal Osso Bucco. Private dining is offered for special events. $$$

Middendorf’s Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 386-6666, Akers, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish filets. Open since 1934, it transitioned to its next generation of owners when Horst Pfeifer purchased it in 2007. More than a restaurant, this is a Sunday Drive tradition. $$ Mike’s On the Avenue 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, CBD, MikesOnTheAvenue. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Mike Fenelly and Vicky Bayley have re-opened one of New Orleans most inventive restaurants in Mike’s On the Avenue. Fennelly’s California-Asian cuisine may lack the novelty it enjoyed in the 1990s, but it’s every bit as good. $$$$ MiLa 817 Common St., 412-2580, French Quarter, MiLaNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Latest offering from husband-andwife chefs Slade Rushing and Allison VinesRushing focuses on the fusion of the cuisines of Miss. and La. Signature dishes include Oysters Rockefeller “Deconstructed” and New Orleans-style barbecue lobster. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2008. $$$$ Mona’s Café 504 Frenchmen St., 949-4115, Marigny; 4126 Magazine St., 894-9800, Uptown; 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 861-8174, Uptown; 3901 Banks St., 482-7743, Mid-City. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties like baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts such as sticky sweet baklava round out the menu. $ Mondo 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633, Lakeview, MondoNewOrleans.com. Br Sun, L Wed-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine isn’t far from her home in Lakeview. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$

Audubon Clubhouse Café: latest ‘Hot Spot’ in town 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute.org/visit/clubhouse-cafe

The Audubon Clubhouse Café has always been a beautiful spot. Now it offers the best of both worlds with the introduction of wireless Internet service throughout the restaurant. You can chat online, surf the web or do some work while taking in the scenic vista of Audubon Park and enjoying breakfast, lunch or just a snack. The café is also open on Sundays for brunch. – M irella cameran

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Morton’s, The Steakhouse The Shops at Canal Place, 365 Canal St., 566-0221, French Quarter, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Quintessential Chicago steakhouse serves up top-quality slabs of meat along with jumbo seafood. Clubhouse atmosphere makes this chophouse a favorite of Saints players and businessmen alike. $$$$$ Mosca’s 4137 Highway 90 West, 436-9942, Avondale. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution near the Huey Long Bridge dishes out massive portions of great food family-style. Good bets are the shrimp mosca and chicken à la grande. Note: Cash Only. $$$

Mother’s 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, CBD/ Warehouse District, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, Bucktown; 910 W. Esplanade Ave., #A, 4633030, Kenner. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Muriel’s Jackson Square 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, French Quarter, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other New Orleans classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$

Naked Pizza 6307 S. Miro St., 865-0244, Uptown (takeout & delivery only), NakedPizza. biz. L, D daily. Pizza place with a focus on

fresh ingredients and a healthy crust. The Mediterranean pie is a good choice. $

Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., 5249752, French Quarter, NapoleonHouse.com. L, D Thu-Tue. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites: gumbo, jambalaya, muffulettas and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup. $$

Nine Roses 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, Gretna, NineRosesResturant.com. L, D SunTue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. Great for families. $$

NOLA 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, French Quarter, Emerils.com. L Thu-Sun, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plank-roasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$

Nuvolari’s 246 Girod St., (985) 6265619, Mandeville, Nuvolaris.com. D daily. Dark woods and soft lighting highlight this Northshore Creole Continental-Italian fusion restaurant famous for crabmeat ravioli, veal dishes, seafood specialties and delectable desserts. $$$$

One Restaurant and Lounge 8132 Hampson St., 301-9061, Uptown, OrleansGrapevine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Black seating and herbaceous sage-colored walls form a dining room where every seat is a view into the open kitchen and the chefs creating contemporary comfort food on a seasonally changing menu. The bar is also known for cranking out clever cocktails. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2005. $$$$

Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, French

Quarter, OrleansGrapevine.com. D Tue-Sun, closed Mon. Wine is the muse at this beautifully renovated French Quarter bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on New Orleans cuisine adds to the appeal $$$

Palace Café 605 Canal St., 523-1661, CBD/Warehouse District, PalaceCafe.com. L Mon-Sat, D Mon-Sun, Br Sun. Dickie Brennan-owned brasserie with French-style sidewalk seating and house-created specialties of Chef Darrin Nesbit at lunch, dinner and Jazz Brunch. Favorites here include crabmeat cheesecake, turtle soup, the Werlein salad with fried Louisiana oysters and pork ”debris” studded Palace Potato Pie. $$$$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, Mid-City, ParkwayBakeryAndTavernNola.com. L, D daily, closed Tue. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, Parkway stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their French fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $

Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, Uptown. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage New Orleans neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the housecreation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

Patois 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, Uptown, PatoisNola.com. Br Sun, L Fri, D Wed-Sat. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of Chef Aaron Burgau (New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Chef 2009).

Reservations recommended. $$$

Paul’s Café 100 Pine St., (985) 386-9581, Ponchatoula, PaulsCafe.net. B, L daily. Best known for its strawberry daiquiris, Paul’s also cooks up egg breakfasts and lunches including all manner of sandwiches and poor boys. $ The Pelican Club 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, French Quarter, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Tucked into a French Quarter alley, Pelican Club serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

PJ’s Coffee Multiple locations throughout Greater New Orleans, PJsCoffee.com. The city’s first iced-coffee spot that pioneered the coffee house experience in New Orleans and introduced us all to velvet ices, drinkable granitas and locally made Ronald Reginald vanilla. A wide assortment of pastries and bagels are offered as well as juices and fresh ground or whole bean coffees. $ Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, French Quarter, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It’s all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

Praline Connection 542 Frenchmen St., 943-3934, Faubourg Marigny, PralineConnection.com. L, D daily. Downhome dishes of smothered pork chops, greens, beans and cornbread are on the menu at this homey Creole soul restaurant. $$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, French Quarter, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T HE M EN U with Big Easy favorites like BBQ oysters, blackened redfish and double chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$

Ralph’s On The Park 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, Mid-City, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Wed-Fri, D daily. A modern interior, a view of City Park’s moss-draped oaks and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup and BBQ Gulf shrimp. The bar gets special notice for cocktails. $$$$ The Red Maple 1036 Lafayette St., 3670935, Gretna, TheRedMaple.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sat. This West Bank institution since 1963 is known for its seafood, steaks, wine list and some of the best bread pudding around. $$$$

Reginelli’s Pizzeria 741 State St., 8991414, Uptown; 3244 Magazine St., 895-7272, Uptown; 5608 Citrus Blvd., 818-0111, Harahan; 817 W. Esplanade Ave., 7126868, Kenner; 874 Harrison Ave, 488-0133, Lakeview; Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are on tap at locations all over town. $$

Arnaud’s Remoulade 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, French Quarter, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of Famous Shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$

René Bistrot 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2350, CBD/Warehouse District, LaCoteBrasserie.com. B, L, D daily. Fresh local seafood, international ingredients and a contemporary atmosphere fill the room at this hotel restaurant near the Convention Center. $$$

Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, CBD/Warehouse District, RestaurantAugust.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of Euro flavor set in a historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$

R’Evolution 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, French Quarter, RevolutionNola.com. L, D Mon-Fri, Br, D Sun, open late Fri-Sat. R’evolution is the partnership between chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto. Located in the Royal Sonesta Hotel, it’s an opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$

Ristorante Da Piero 401 Williams Blvd., Kenner, RistoranteDaPiero.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sat, 469-8585. Homemade pastas and an emphasis on Northern Italian cuisine make this cozy spot in Kenner’s Rivertown a romantic destination. $ Rib Room Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, French Quarter, OmniHotels.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Old World elegance, high ceilings and views of Royal Street, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on weekends, a Champagne Brunch. $$$

DINING GUIDE Riccobono’s Panola Street Café 7801 Panola St., 314-1810, Garden District. B, L daily. This breakfast spot at the corner of Burdette and Panola streets has been waking up bleary college students for years. The omelets are good, as are the Belgian waffles. Offers daily specials as well. $

Rio Mar 800 S. Peters St., 525-3474, CBD/Warehouse District, RioMarSeafood. com. L Mon-Fri. D Mon-Sat. Seafood-centric Warehouse District destination focuses on Latin American and Spanish cuisines. Try the bacalaitos and the escabeche. The tapas lunch is a great way to try a little of everything. Save room for the Tres Leches, a favorite dessert. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2006. $$$$

Ristorante Filippo 1917 Ridgelake Drive, 835-4008, Metairie. L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. Creole-Italian destination serves up southern Italian specialties bathed in red sauces and cheese alongside New Orleans classics like pan-fried gulf fish and plump shellfish. $$$ River 127 Westin New Orleans Canal Place, 100 Rue Iberville, 566-7006, French Quarter. B, L, D daily. Continental cuisine with Louisiana flare in a dining room that overlooks the Mississippi River and French Quarter. $$$$

Rivershack Tavern 3449 River Road, 8344938, Jefferson, TheRivershackTavern.com. L, D daily. Home of the Tacky Ashtray, this popular bar alongside the Mississippi levee offers surprisingly wide-ranging menu featuring seafood, poor boys and deli-style sandwiches along with live music. Open late. $

Rock-N-Sake 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, CBD/Warehouse District, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun. Enjoy fresh sushi along with contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in this club-like setting in the Warehouse District. Open until midnight on Fri. and Sat., this makes for a unique late-night destination. $$$

Root 200 Julia St., 252-9480, CBD, RootNola. com. L Mon-Fri, D Sun-Thur, open late Fri-Sat. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. Try the Korean fried chicken wings and the Cohiba-smoked scallops crusted with chorizo. $$$$ Royal Blend Coffee and Tea House 621 Royal St., 523-2716, French Quarter; 204 Metairie Road, 835-7779, Metairie; RoyalBlendCoffee.com. B, L daily. Known for their frozen Café Glace and a wide selection of coffees and teas, as well as pastries, daily specials and hearty breakfasts. $

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, Metairie. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun; 228 Poydras St. in Harrah’s Hotel, 587-7099, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun; RuthsChris. com. Filet Mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Sake Café 2830 Magazine St., 894-0033, Uptown, SakeCafeUptown.com. L, D daily. Creative and traditional Japanese food in an ultramodern décor. Sushi and sashimi boats, wild rolls filled with the usual and not-sousual suspects and a nice bar with a number of sakes from which to choose. $$$ Sammy’s Po-Boys and Catering 901 Veterans Blvd., 835-0916, Metairie,

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

SammysPoBoys.com. L Mon-Sat, D Sun. Bucktown transplant offers a seafood-centric menu rounded out with wraps, kid meals, and catering options all at a reasonable price. $

com. L, D Mon-Sun. This local chain offers a globally influenced menu with burgers, steaks, sesame crusted tuna, sandwiches and salads. $$

Satsuma Café 3218 Dauphine St., 3045962, Bywater; 7901 Maple St., 309-5557, Uptown; SatsumaCafe.com. B, L daily (until 7 p.m.). Two locations bring healthy, inspired breakfast and lunch fare, along with freshsqueezed juices, to the University Section of Uptown. $

Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., 524-3828, Coliseum Square; 4807 Magazine St., 895-5757, Uptown; SurreysCafeAndJuiceBar.com. B, L daily. Laid-back café focuses on breakfast and brunch dishes to accompany fresh-squeezed juice offerings. Health-food lovers will like it here, along with fans of favorites such as peanut butter and banana pancakes. Note: Cash only. $$

Semolina 4436 Veterans Blvd., Suite 37, Metairie, 454-7930, Semolina.com. L, D daily. This casual, contemporary pasta restaurant takes a bold approach to cooking Italian food, emphasizing flavors, texture and color; many of the dishes feature a signature Louisiana twist, such as the Muffuletta Pasta and Pasta Jambalaya. Popular entrees include Grilled Chicken Alfredo, Chicken Marsala and Veal Parmesan. $$

Serendipity 3700 Orleans Ave. 407-0818, Mid-City, SerendipityNola.com. D nightly. Chef Chris DeBarr brings his eclectic and far-ranging style of cuisine and classicallyinspired cocktails to an outpost in American Can. A late-night option as well. $$

Slice 1513 St. Charles Ave., 525-7437, Uptown; 5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; SlicePizzeria.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Right on the Avenue, order up slices or whole pizza pies done in several styles (thin- and thickcrust) as well as pastas, seafood, paninis and salads. $

Slim Goodies Diner 3322 Magazine St., 891-EGGS (3447). B, L daily. This diner offers up an exhaustive menu heavily influenced by local cuisine. Try the Creole Slammer, a breakfast platter rounded out with Crawfish Étouffée. The laid-back vibe is best enjoyed on the patio out back. $ SoBou 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, French Quarter, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon,” the latest offering from the Commander’s Restaurant Family. Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass, diners will find everything from $1 pork cracklins’ to an extravagant foie gras burger on the accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$ Snug Harbor 626 Frenchman St., 949-0696, Faubourg Marigny, SnugJazz.com. D daily. The city’s premier jazz club serves cocktails and a dining menu loaded with steaks, seafood and meaty burgers served with loaded baked potatoes. $$$$

Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., 527-0771, Uptown, SteinsDeli.net. B, L, D Tue-Sun. New York meets New Orleans. The Reuben and Rachel sandwiches are the real deal and the half-sours and pickled tomatoes complete the deli experience. $

Stella! 1032 Chartres St., 587-0091, French Quarter, RestaurantStella.com. D daily. Global cuisine with a Louisiana blush by native son chef Scott Boswell. Dishes are always inventive and flavorful from appetizer to dessert. The wine list is bold and the service “stellar.” Boswell was New Orleans Magazine’s 2005 Chef of the Year. $$$$$ Sun Ray Grill 619 Pink St., 837-0055, Old Metairie; 1051 Annunciation St., 566-0021, CBD/Warehouse District; 2600 Belle Chasse Highway, 391-0053, Gretna; 2424 Williams Blvd., Kenner, 305-4704; SunRayGrill.

Tan Dinh 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008, Gretna. B, L, D Wed-Mon. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$

Theo’s Pizza 4218 Magazine St., 894-8554, Uptown; 4024 Canal, 302-1133, Mid-City; TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The thin, crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by the broad assortment of toppings which include a lot of local ingredients. Cheap prices make this an economical choice along upscale Magazine Street and a delicious choice in Mid-City. $$ Three Muses 536 Frenchmen St., 298-8746, Marigny, TheThreeMuses.com. D Sun-Mon, Wed, Fri-Sat. Three Muses is a bar-restaurant serving the eclectic cuisine of chef Daniel Esses. The menu changes, but expect Esses’ take on Italian, Spanish, North African and Korean cooking. Local bands provide music on a regular basis. $ Tommy’s Cuisine 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, CBD/Warehouse, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery in the Warehouse District. Appetizers include the namesake Oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Tony Angello’s 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive, 488-0888. Lakeview. D, Tue-Sat. Creole-Italian favorite serves up fare in the completely restored Lakeview location. Ask Tony to “Feed Me” if you want a real multi-course dining experience. $$$$ Tout de Suite Cafe 347 Verret St., 3622264, Algiers. B, L, D daily. Neighborhood coffeehouse/café in historic Algiers Point offers a light menu of soups, salads and sandwiches for a quick meal or carryout. $$

Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraeysNola.com, Uptown. L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down. Also a great location to watch “the game.” $ Trey Yuen 600 N. Causeway Blvd., (985) 626-4476, Mandeville, TreyYuen.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. Chinese cuisine meets with local seafood in dishes like their Szechuan Spicy Alligator and Tong Cho Crawfish; private rooms available. $$

Tujague’s 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, French Quarter, TujaguesRestaurant.com. D daily. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique Beef Brisket with Creole Sauce. New Orleans Magazine’s

Honor Roll honoree 2008. $$$$$

Upperline 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Uptown, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented Chef Nathan Winowich make for a winning combination at this nationally heralded Uptown favorite. The oft-copied Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Remoulade originated here. $$$$

Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 8362007, Metairie. D daily. Innovative establishment offers fresh seafood, grilled meats and vegetarian dishes in a chic environment. Daily chef specials showcase unique ingredients and make this place a popular destination for dates as well as groups of friends. $$

Venezia 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 488-7991, Mid-City. L Wed-Fri & Sun, D Wed-Sun. Casual neighborhood Italian destination known for its thin-crust pizzas. Good lunch specials make this a popular choice as well. $$

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sat; 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, Uptown. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sun; VicentsItalianCuisine. com. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Wolfe’s 1041 Dumaine St., 593-9535, French Quarter. L Fri, D Tue-Sat. Chef Tom Wolfe has reinvented the former Peristyle, opening up the doors for full expression of his inventive, contemporary New Orleans cuisine. The menu changes seasonally. Complimentary valet. $$$

Wolfe’s in the Warehouse 859 Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882, CBD/ Warehouse District. B, L, D daily. Chef Tom

Wolfe brings his refined cuisine to the booming Fulton Street corridor. His Smoked Kobe Short Ribs are a good choice. $$$

Ye Olde College Inn 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, Uptown, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. The Carrollton institution moved next door into brand-new digs but serves up the same classic fare, albeit with a few new upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Yuki Izakaya 525 Frenchmen St., 9431122, Marignuy. D Tue-Sun. Authentic Japanese Izakaya serves small plates to late-night crowds at this unique destination on Frenchmen. Try the Hokke Fish or the Agedashi Tofu. An excellent sake menu rounds out the appeal, as does the sexy, clublike ambiance. $ Zea’s Rotisserie and Bar 1525 St. Charles Ave., Lower Garden District, 5208100; 1655 Hickory Ave, Harahan, 738-0799; 4450 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 780-9090; 1325 West Esplanade, Kenner, 468-7733; 1121 Manhattan Blvd., Harvey, 361-8293; 110 Lake Drive, Covington, (985) 327-0520, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. This popular restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées, drawing from a wide range of worldly influences. Zea’s also offers catering services. $$$

Zoë Restaurant W New Orleans Hotel,

French Quarter, Antoines.com/AntoinesAnnex. Around the corner from the oldest continuously operated restaurant in the country, Antoine’s Annex serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. They also deliver.

com. Located in the second floor of a renovated warehouse, above Cochon and Cochon Butcher, is a place to host gatherings both large and small. Catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

Bee Sweet Cupcakes 5706 Magazine St., 891-8333, Uptown, BeeSweetCupcakes.net. Open Mon-Sat. Tiny shop sells its namesake treats with a New Orleans twist. Try the Bananas Foster or the Pralines and Cream flavors. Daily specials are offered, as well as catering orders for weddings and parties.

Magic Seasonings Mail Order (800)

St. James Cheese Company 5004

Bittersweet Confections 725 Magazine St., 523-2626, Warehouse District, BittersweetConfections.com. Freshly baked cookies, cupcakes and specialty cakes. Serving handmade chocolate truffles, fudge, caramels, gelato, ice coffee, chocolate-dipped strawberries and fresh squeezed lemonade. Children’s birthday parties, chocolate tasting parties, custom chocolates and truffle party bar. Call for details.

Blue Dot Donuts 4301 Canal St., 218-

Prytania St., 899-4737, Uptown, StJamesCheese.com. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday.

Sucré 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311; 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277; ShopSucre. com. Desserts nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this new dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

4866, Mid-City, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L daily. Heard the one about the cops that opened a donut shop? This is no joke. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.

333 Poydras St., 2nd Floor, 207-5018, ZoeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, L Mon-Sat. Completely redone in both décor and cuisine, each restaurant features a separate menu by executive chef Chris Brown. $$$

Blue Frog Chocolates 5707 Magazine

SPECIALTY FOODS

Calcasieu 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 5882188, Warehouse District, CalcasieuRooms.

Antoine’s Annex 513 Royal St., 525-8045,

457- 2857. Offers Chef Paul Prudhomme’s famous cookbooks, smoked meats, videos, seasonings and more. Online shopping available at shop.ChefPaul.com.

St., 269-5707, Uptown, BlueFrogChocolate. com. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this boutique a great place for gifts.

seafood Robert’s

This Robert’s Accent Item is a one of a kind and available every day. Only at Robert’s, can you get fresh-never-frozen salmon fillets seasoned on a cedar plank and smoked daily in our in-house smoker.

Available in 4 different flavors!

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

TOAST COAST TO THE

HIGH END HOLIDAYS

Beach bumming is a perfectly fine pastime, but sometimes there’s the urge to spiff up a bit, even within the range of sea breeze. Coastal getaways can

also include fine dining and exploring the elegant life along Florida Highway 30-A. Just so you don’t lose perspective, we offer a guide to fishing, adventures along Okaloosa Island and some medical tips in case you go too far. Our tip to you: Eat well but be careful of the sun.

EUGENIA UHL PHOTOGRAPH

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

COASTAL GOURMET DINING AND DRINKING AT THE EDGE OF THE CONTINENT BY BRENDA MAITLAND AND TIM MCNALLY

Mary Mahoneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crabs Fried Soft Shell ss. B ilo x i , M i

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EUGNIA UHL

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

T he end o f winter around the G ul f C oa s t i s o f little importance

in a region where winters are often non-existent – or at least offer only token amounts of cool weather. Here, long strolls on white sandy beaches can be done in just about any month that has more than 25 days. The Central Gulf Coast, particularly the states of Mississippi, Alabama and the panhandle area of Florida, are the beach playgrounds of New Orleanians and South Louisianians. And being that we’re a people who travel on our collective stomachs, pleasurable destinations are often defined not just by pretty scenery and recreation opportunities but also by fine cuisine. Fortunately, great beaches are very close, and the dining possibilities near these sandinto-surf communities are pretty darn good. When dining along the Gulf Coast, keep in mind that you’re next to one of the greatest fisheries in the world. Marine life abounds, and sometimes, as far as we’re concerned, for no other reason than to please us on a plate, provide a good fight when being caught, or both. You will always eat fresh and local. Sure there are other diversions, most chefs along the coast know their way around a piece of beef but, as the old saying goes, when in Pensacola, Fla., gravitate to the grouper. You have heard that one, right? Here are a few restaurant and drinking suggestions, alongside some local joints. This is by no means a complete list, but it’s a good start.

in breakfast and brunch, Another Broken Egg has found gold in morning and midday meals. Omelets – the selection is dizzying – are loaded with ingredients, or not, depending on your preferences. The side items, including salads, are quite large and generous. There are healthy items, as well as Eggs Benedict. Or you could have it all and feel both good about yourself and enjoy a dose of cholesterol. Most locations serve alcohol, and the Bloody Marys will open those sleepy eyes. We tend to forget that once you leave our city, the presence of alcohol isn’t something taken for granted – don’t even ask about go-cups. Locations along the Gulf Coast in Destin, Grayton Beach, Panama City, Sandestin and Pensacola; as well as Mandeville, Baton Rouge and Lafayette, La. AnotherBrokenEgg.com

Destin, Fla.

Marina Café. It is the place you remem-

What was once a sleepy little fishing village composed of a few cinder blockstyle motels, complete with linoleum floors, fit only for a bunch of guys anxious to head to open water for a bit of beer and fishing, is now a world-class resort community in every sense of the term. High-rise luxury complexes offering vacation amenities such as go-cart tracks and rum bars with dueling pianos (sound familiar?) are neighbors to restaurants that can compete for cuisine excellence in any community anywhere. (Ed. Note: When not marked otherwise, the city is Destin.) Stinky’s Fish Camp. Yes, I agree with you, it’s a crazy name for a finedining restaurant, but make no mistake about it: This place rocks! Proprietor Jim Richard (he’s from Lafayette so it’s pronounced REEshard) knows his way around fresh fish, Cajun cuisine and Creole specialties. The fish stew is sublime, the oysters are prepared many ways and the crawfish tamales are like nothing anyone else is doing outside of South Louisiana.

404 Harbor Blvd., (850) 837-7960, MarinaCafe.com

Cuvee Bistro. This spot has been revamped in the last few years after chef Tim Creehan became involved. There is still an DIVE IN emphasis on wine, but the Boathouse Oyster Bar. retail operation has been Go for the drinks. Make removed in favor of an it a PBR. Sometimes expanded bar and casual the oysters are good. dining area. The cuisine But drinks are the deal is local, of course, with an here. Great sunsets and Italian and Asian direction. fun crowds, assuming Definitely low-key and you want to have fun. easy-going, Cuvee Bistro Service is bad. It is on has always been comfortthe water so the place able, but now even more is a bit dirty. It offers so. Happy Hour is crowded a good jukebox, local so come early. bands and redneck 36120 Emerald Coast Parkway, (850) good times. 650-8900, CuveeBistroDestin.com 288 Harbor Blvd., (850) 837-3645,

5994 W. Highway 30-A, Santa Rosa Beach, FL, (850) 267-3053; 8651 Navarre Parkway, Navarre, FL, (850) 396-7799; StinkysFishCamp.com

ber from years ago – and it’s better. This upscale dining restaurant is worth it for the harbor views alone. The cuisine and the contemporary décor add to the experience. Steaks, duck, lamb and short ribs are worthy of your attention, no small feat in a seafood-centric area. Then there are the redfish, grouper, tuna, scallops and even lobster to make your decisions even tougher. Just reading the menu is a problem because your eyes keep wandering to the long views of Destin Harbor.

BoathouseOysterBar.com

Another Broken Egg Cafe.

This restaurant started in Mandeville as Broken Egg; when expansion became desired, the new name seemed obvious. Specializing

Harbor Docks. Ya either love it or you leave it. The building is a bit ramshackle, even by fishing village standards. All day long, breakfast through late-night, this established, sturdy restaurant delivers great seafood, harbor views in an open-air setting and casual taken to a high level – almost as if they’d loan you some flipflops if you aren’t wearing any – a sort of anti-Galatoire’s. Sushi is a mainstay here. Those who don’t care for this place usually point to the eclectic menu, but I have never heard a New Orleanian downgrade the joint. 538 Harbor Blvd., (850) 837-2506, HarborDocks.com

Pensacola, Fla.

There was a village of native Americans already here when Spanish explorers “discovered” Pensacola in 1559. The Spaniards called the tribe of Mukogean Indians the Pensacola, and that mistake stuck, a name applied to both the outpost and the beautiful bay alongside. (Ed. Note: When not otherwise marked, the city is Pensacola.) Joe Patti’s Seafood Market. It is actually many operations, with the processing and wholesale part of the business going back 75 years, and the deli/restaurant operation happening much later. However, if you understand fresh seafood, and how important it is to get product to your table as soon as it comes from the water, you’re going to love this place. No pretensions here. Plastic utensils. Use the North Door for dine-in. Consider sharing platters. Mostly fried offerings but the food is fresh, plentiful and

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

honest. Watch it come right off the boat. (Restaurant) 610 S. C St., (850) 434-3193, (Market) 524 S. B St., (850) 432-3315, (800) 500-9929, JoePattis.com

Five Sisters Blues Cafe.

Pensacola, Fla., and Southernstyle cuisine. Yes, that should work – and it does. The neighborhood could use some work, but the food is right where it needs to be. Fried chicken is done well, and there’s bean and ham soup, cornbread and pork chops. 421 W. Belmont St., (850) 912-4856, FiveSistersBluesCafe.com

h Bravo Taco’s Fis asted Taco, top, Fire Ro Tomatoes, below . each , A l A orange B

Blue Dot Barbecue. Blue Dot is reputed for the best burgers in the city; then there’s the rib sandwich. And then there are … nope, that’s it. OK, maybe a bag of chips and a soft drink. Father and son, Tom and Byron Long, keep it simple and good. 310 N. Devilliers St., (850) 432-0644

DIVE IN Flora-Bama Lounge, Package Store and Oyster Bar. In 2004 Hurricane

Ivan took this place down. There was hardly a cinder block sitting upon another cinder block, but it was rebuilt and turned out looking pretty much the same. Why mess with success? It’s famous for Mullet Toss competitions, bikini contests, chili cook-offs, the Santa Drop and New Year’s Eve Bash, among other mindless beach activities. But this joint is a blast and rightly deserves its honored place in history among fraternity alumni groups and beach bunny tales told late into the night. 17401 Perdido Key Drive, (850) 492-0611 (Florida), (251) 980-5118 (Alabama), FloraBama.com

Orange Beach, Ala.

Practically brand-spanking new, this upscale destination boasts fine dining, nightlife, plenty of recreation activities and close proximity to New Orleans, both in driving distance and time spent on Interstate 10. Plenty of white sandy beaches that, despite BP’s best attempts, are still pristine and beautiful. Zen. Want proof times have changed in South Alabama? How about a restaurant that “blends culinary elements from two or more spatially distinct cultures transcending conventional geographical and historical boundaries?” The correct answer is Pacific Rim Fusion. It is an Oyster Rockefeller Roll and Hawaiian Curry coming together in a place no one expected this to happen. 25775 Perdido Beach Blvd., (251) 981-2988, ZenOrangeBeach.com

Ginny Lane Bar & Grill. Gulf Coast cuisine with a dash of Southern Cooking tossed in, in an excellent location with a small but certainly diverse menu, good luncheon specials, oh, and cheese muffins, which they sell by the dozen in case you crave these later. (Hint: you will.) 4780 Wharf Parkway, (251) 224-6500, GinnyLaneBarGrill.com

Bravo Tacos. Fresh is the

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

DIVE IN The Keg Lounge & Grill.

Bit out of the way, smoky, not the cleanest place you will encounter. But the burgers and steak sandwiches are top-notch. Cold beer, for sure. (By the way, with a name like The Keg, maybe your 11-year-old should eat someplace else.) 26796 Canal Road, (251) 981-9462

trademark here and they live it every day. There is guacamole like your mama used to make, assuming your mama was from the Yucatan. Tacos include fish, pork carnitas, chorizo, chicken, steak and al pastor. Cold beer but no margaritas. Maybe soon. 4575 Orange Beach Blvd., Suite 6, (251) 981-8226, BravoTacos.net

Mobile, Ala. NoJa. Ethiopian-born Chakli Diggs

’s OK Bicycle Shop Duck Nachos lA. MOBILE, A

has brought to Mobile a cuisine he has dubbed “Mediterrasian,” blending two cultures near his ancestral home with too casual. The menu includes Ahi tuna the one in his new home. Importantly, in a martini glass, Petite Filet, Grilled Diggs is on the premises, overseeing Breast of Duck, Chicken every aspect of his dream. Bienville (he founded Contemporary and eleDIVE IN Mobile as well as New gant, NoJa offers one of Alchemy Tavern. Built Orleans), Spicy Crab the best wine lists you are in 1853, Alchemy Cakes and the Cheese, likely to find in this area. Tavern is a big hit with Bacon and Tomato 6 N. Jackson St., (251) 433-0377, the performing arts Panini. Everything is reaNoJaMobile.com crowd before and after sonably priced. performances at the 72 S. Royal St., (251) 432-7226, The Royal Scam. Unless Saenger Theatre across RoyalScamMobile.com you’re a fan of the rock the street. It offers an group Steely Dan, you extensive selection of The Bicycle Shop. won’t get the reference bourbon, and if you Do locals really refer to to their fifth album. The don’t see your favorite, their town as The Mob? restaurant isn’t certain if just ask because there is They do here. And you’ll Steely Dan even knows more in the back. Pool probably not head here of the tribute. The royal table is free. on a bike. Still, it’s a great reference also applies to 7 S. Joachim St., (251) 441-7741, spot for finger food, memthe address. This place Alchemy.Joltpro.com orable tastes, cold beer is casual dining, but not

and to escape any contact with tourists. The duck breast nachos are “the bomb,” while the flautas, the tacos, the quesadillas and the tortillas seem perfectly proper alongside sushi. The bikes on the wall make for more than just a backdrop. They are for sale. 661 Dauphin St., (251) 432-2453

Gulf Coast, Miss.

So near to New Orleans, on all counts: in history, in lifestyle, in geography, in what comprises the economy and in attitude. The latter can be explained by the fact that there are so many New Orleanians here, either retired or just changing scenery for the weekend. BILOXI Beau Rivage Resort and Casino. Multiple

venues under one roof: BR Prime –

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

d Bacchus Food an Drinks’ Snapper Bacchus GULFPORT

American Steakhouse and Jia – Pan-Asian Cuisine. Many casual dining outlets. Bars and Lounges: Eight 75, Coast NightClub and Breeze Bar. Beau Rivage Resort and Casino, 875 Beach Blvd., (228) 386-7111, BeauRivage.com

Mary Mahoney’s Old French House. If longev-

DIVE IN The Project Lounge.

If you don’t order a burger, you missed the point. They are juicy and delicious. The place is dark, lit by table candles and no telling what’s on the floor. The drinks are cheap and honest. The regular clientele probably sleeps here. Did I mention the burgers?

ity is a key to success, this place earned its 208 Iberville Drive, (228) 435-3030 chops a long time ago. The building was built in the mid-1700s, and the restaurant opened in 1964. There is a lot of discussion about inconsistency in the quality of the food, but just being here is something quite special. 110 Rue Magnolia, (228) 374-0163, MaryMahoneys.com

Phoenicia Gourmet. Be wary of any restaurant with the word “gourmet” in its name. Do not expect fine dining establishments to serve a good breakfast – or any breakfast at all. Next observation: Throw both of the previous observations out the window. This place is excellent. Soups are always worth the risk of filling up on the first course. Steaks are fine. Chicken Shwarma is better. Sambousek isn’t to be missed. 1223 Government St., Ocean Springs, (228) 875-0603, PhoeniciaGourmet.com

Gulfport Lookout Steakhouse. A steakhouse in a beach community that

does great things with the local seafood. That is what you want and that’s what you get at Lookout. Head on over here for lunch. The lines are not so long and the wait, if there is one, is shorter. If you go for dinner, there are a number of bars nearby; don’t be in any hurry. The pace is decidedly Deep South. 1301 26th Ave., (228) 248-0555, LookoutSteakhouse.com

Bacchus Food and Drink. Named for the Roman god of wine, Bacchus Food and Drink serves steaks with a Cajun flair, some pasta, a bit of sushi and takes full advantage of the fresh seafood located practically out the front door. And the restaurant is self-described as American. If American means a blend of many cultures, they’ve hit the nail squarely on the head. 1310 27th Ave., (228) 265-5476,

DIVE IN Watson’s Piano Bar.

Hate bars and restaurants where the music is so loud you can’t talk to your friends? You will love Watson’s. It is a clubby English pub set-up in the middle of the re-birthing section of downtown Gulfport. Named for the owner’s dog, Watson’s has a cool, relaxing atmosphere. 1307 25th Ave., (228) 297-1710, WatsonsPianoBar.com

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

, M I SS .

BacchusFoodAndDrink.com

Tony Nelson’s King of Philly Cheesesteaks. Since Mississippi

isn’t exactly famous for well-made and authentic Philly cheesesteak sandwiches, that makes this place even more special. Want Whiz on yours? That is Cheez Whiz, just in case you’re wondering. Do not worry: Tony will walk you through it and include in your visit a serving of the Italian Water Ice. It is refreshing. 1909 E. Pass Road, (228) 604-4599, TonysKingOfSteaks.com

R ainy day s at the beach

have their good side and their bad side. Because I hadn’t intended to spend time on the sand anyway, that muted the bad side somewhat. The sun wasn’t on my agenda. On the good side there’s a moody beauty to a rainy beach. There was also a touch of drama. Somewhere way out there in the Gulf, Tropical Storm Debbie was kicking about. We knew we weren’t going to be hit head-on, but the outer bands created occasional gusts that only added to the mood. Our destination that weekend had been Okaloosa Island, located between Fort Walton Beach and Destin, Fla., along U.S. Highway 98. This linear Gulf-front barrier island is part of Fort Walton Beach and is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico, Choctawhatchee Bay and the Intracoastal Waterway and is connected to Destin and Fort Walton Beach by bridges at each end of the island. Resorts, restaurants and other places to go dot the island, but the main attraction, of course, is the pristine beach. By sunset that Sunday the clouds had broken enough to allow splashes of orange from the west. Few fashion stylists would ever match gray and orange, but when rays break through ominous clouds the color scheme has a natural beauty. I witnessed the sunset from the porch of the Beach Walk Café at Henderson Park Inn, a picturesque little hotel patterned after the inns of Maine. The candle on our table wasn’t there because of the tropical storm but because of the elegance of the place, which provides some of the area’s finest fine dining. A cocktail was a soothing tonic for watching waves crash on the beach. Though she had threatened all weekend, Debbie would

Shelley G R A C E H e s s e photograph

DEBBI E DOES DESTI N ADVENTURES ALONG OKALOOSA ISLAND BY ERROL LABORDE

eventually move more to the east, leaving only drama, scattered showers, a few wind gusts and more time watching the Weather Channel than I had wanted in its wake. Still, the weekend that the sun was now setting on was complete. A day earlier we had decided to go retro and visited the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park just because it seemed like the appropriate thing to do. It turned out to be a lot more fun than expected, not just because of the dolphin show but also because of the aquarium inside. There are some weird fish in this world, but the most entertaining was a herd of rock shrimp scampering sideways through the water. There was also an outside area housing tropical birds as well as turtles the size of manhole covers. Watching the excited expressions on the kids’ faces, I saw future marine biologists in

the making. Later that afternoon we had taken a dolphin cruise. HarborWalk Village, located on the Destin side of the island, has become the epicenter of area activity. There is a dock from which fishing boats take would-be anglers into the blue. That is also where the dolphin cruise boat docks. Because of the flirty weather, the boat couldn’t go out as far as it usually does that day, but there were still plenty of dolphins to be seen both in the harbor and in the bay where, according to the guide, the mammals usually congregate to spend their nights. Our nights were spent at Waterscape, one of the many condo resorts on the island. That Sunday afternoon, with Debbie swirling somewhere out there, the pool was the main attraction. Kids splashed while the wind achieved the

right velocity to be adventurous but not dangerous. Dining, of course, is always a pastime. AJ’s Seafood & Oyster Bar, located near the marina, is so popular that were advised to get there a little early for Saturday dinner. It is a sunset and margaritas sort of place, both of which I experienced before forking into the grouper du jour. Back at HarborWalk Village a character named Cadillac Willy was performing on the main stage defiantly singing his songs while the returning fishing boats were being secured for Debbie. By Monday morning the tropical storm had totally left the area but was still taking swipes closer to Panama City. Okaloosa Island even during a tropical event maintained its charm, yet for balmy days ahead, it’s a good place to want to go back to.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

30-A MORE THAN A NUMBER BY ERROL IT’S A LIFESTYLE LABORDE

W hen I f ir s t met R obert D avi s in the late

1980s he seemed more like the person one would ask for directions about how to find Robert Davis, than Davis himself. Davis had been riding his bike along a neighborhood street in the then-fledgling Florida panhandle planned community of Seaside. He was carrying a Tupperware bowl containing fish filets that he was bringing to the restaurant across tiny, coastal Highway 30-A, a then-inconspicuous path serving mostly beach bums and fishermen. A dachshund pranced behind him. That Davis developed not only the street but also the neighborhood and the village would’ve been only one of the surprises to the unknowing. The other would be that Davis owned the restaurant across the highway, which is named Bud and Alley’s. Yet another surprise was that at that moment Bud himself approached and stood next to Davis. He was the dachshund. (Alley, Davis’s cat, wasn’t present for the occasion.) Of all the developments along the Gulf Coast, none would have more of an influence than Seaside, which would turn Highway 30-A into an important strip known not just for its tourism but also for elegant living. Seaside gained a reputation in two categories that had seldom been taken seriously along the coast: architecture and urban planning. Davis was one of the visionaries of the coast. During the 1980s he began developing land he had inherited from his grandfather into a closely planned community. Seaside is a mix of homes, lofts, cottages, retail, a bed and breakfast and even a ’50s-style tourist court, each

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

subject to carefully scrutinized design. At first glance the community, as seen from the highway, looks like it might be a pastel colored Victorian waterfront village. (Davis says that British ocean-side towns were an influence.) At second glance there’s another influence: New Orleans. Modica’s Market, the town grocery store – and one of Seaside’s earliest, and most important, fixtures – looks and even smells a bit like Central Grocery in the French Quarter. Ruskin Place, consisting of parallel row buildings with retail at ground level and offices above, seems to borrow in spirit from the Pontalba Buildings that flank Jackson Square. Not all the houses are Victorian; many test the whims of architects, including one strange Oriental-style home with an open-air center. Many homes have towering widow’s walks to provide views of the green sea and the often-red sunsets. None of the homes have lawns; they are against the rules. There are small front spaces in the front of homes but, by the rules, they must contain only plants that are native to the area and not a carpet of imported grass. As a practical and natural matter it works. And there’s no groan of lawn mowers. Architecture magazines and books have tended to be high in their praise of Seaside, which has become a landmark in the world of town planning. Seaside would ultimately receive the highest form of flattery: imitation. Along the beaches of the Florida coast there are patches of comparatively new developments featuring buildings that, like Seaside, make their own architecture statements. Just a few block to the west on 30-A stands WaterColor, a planned community with a waterfront inn, grand homes and even a back lake. Near the eastern tip of 30-A, close to the Panama City bridge is Rosemary Beach. The homes and condos there have more earthy colors. (Of all the developments, Rosemary Beach has the largest section of land on the beach side of 30-A.) Nearby Alys Beach enlivens the sense with a Moroccan-style design embellished by sentries of palm trees standing guard along the highway. Signs for up-and-coming developments, many under the guidance of the St. Joe Papers company which owns most the land in the area, suggest more inspiring architecture in the future, though perhaps slowed by the economy. I once spent a long weekend along 30-A and was so immersed in the architecture, restaurants, shops and nature trails that I almost forgot about what all the activity centered around – the beach. That, however, shouldn’t be missed. A mile or so west of Seaside is a stretch of protected shoreline known as Grayton Beach. A professor at the University of Maryland does an annual study of the nation’s beaches and once

SEASIDE

REDFISH VILLAGE

WATERCOLOR

ALYS BEACH

ranked Grayton as the best in the country. Travel magazines, most notably Condé Nast Traveler, looked at the professor’s research and came to the same conclusion. Now it has become a bit of doctrine to locals and to knowing visitors. The quiet, picturesque beach is on the continent’s A-list. Crystal sands provide a path between the waves of sea oats sprouting from the sand dunes and the green waves of the Gulf. Occasionally the Gulf’s water goes crashing toward the beaches, funneling through sandy channels and into coastal lakes that line the coast. Nature is fully at play in this area. Egrets watch the spectacle. East of Grayton Beach, 30-A runs through an area known as Blue Mountain Beach. (Blue Mountain isn’t to be mistaken for the Rockies, but to early mariners this elevated area of coastline was a true landmark.) Redfish Village, which even has its own nature trail, is the newest development along that section of the road. Here, condominium complexes create their own travel niche. At its eastern and western ends, 30-A intersects with U.S. Highway 98, which provides a fast track to Destin, Ft. Walton and Pensacola to the West, Panama City to the East. Ninety-Eight is efficient but certainly lacks the charm of the 18-mile long half-circle country road to its south. Highway 30-A has taken on celebrity status among the nation’s roads, yet remains discreet. By law there are no pole lights to brighten its trail at night. (Such lights would have the undesired effect of attracting sea turtles to the road.) From one side of the two-lane highway to the other is only a few steps and is often barely noticeable, especially when traffic is light. Curiously, the boom along the highway is due partially to the charm of the road’s simplicity. For all its newfound lifestyle significance, 30-A is still a beach road. By now, of course, there are landmarks other than the beach. Just as the planned village concept of Robert Davis’ dreams has expanded, so has Bud and Alley’s. The once-simple seaside eatery is now a busy two-story restaurant, though still with a view of the sea. Sitting at a corner table of the restaurant’s top deck while munching on a grouper burger I thought about my original encounter with Davis. I saw him again later that evening when we sat in his restaurant dining on the fish he had caught. Our dinner was interrupted by one of Florida’s United States Senators who was passing through. Davis was cordial to me but I understood, there was a senator waiting. At least the restaurant’s namesake was still around. He was at our feet hoping for some scraps. Like the highway that runs alongside the restaurant, Bud was by then famous, but remained unpretentious. For Information: (800) 822-6877, BeachesOfSouthWalton.com

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

DROPPI N G A LI N E A GUIDE TO COASTAL FISHING G ul f C oa s t angler s s u f f ered greatly in the

past few years from hurricanes and a massive oil spill that affected waters from Southeast Louisiana to the Florida peninsula, but the fishing came back better than ever. People planning fishing vacations might consider heading east to one of these destinations for outstanding action on a variety of fish species. Biloxi, Miss. The town of Biloxi, Miss., sits astride a peninsula with Biloxi Bay, also known as Back Bay, on the northern side. To the south, a pass between Biloxi and Ocean Springs connects the bay to Mississippi Sound. The bay averages about four- to 13-feet-deep with some dredged channels. Throughout the entire estuary and adjacent waters, anglers can often find excellent fishing for several species. “We have Gulf fishing, river fishing, island fishing, surf fishing and bay fishing, all combined in one general area,” says Robert Brodie of Team Brodie Charters in Biloxi ((228) 392-7660, TeamBrodieCharters. com). “In late spring or early summer, the bay is full of white trout, channel mullet, drum and sheepshead.” Petit Bois, Ship, Cat and Horn islands separate Mississippi Sound from the Gulf of Mexico. During the summer, many people wade the beaches to fish the surf for redfish up to 50 pounds and large numbers of speckled trout. Others concentrate on the deep channels near the islands to tempt big black drum and other species. “The eastern part of Horn Island has great surf fishing,” Brodie says. “Fishing

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

around the barrier islands is very diverse. Besides redfish, trout and flounder, we catch bluefish, sharks, cobia, huge Spanish mackerel – just about anything that swims in Mississippi waters. Summer is also a great time to catch pompano around the islands. Starting in April and running through October, we sight-

Gulf ports offer great opportunities to get away for excellent saltwater fishing opportunities. By John N. Felsher

fishing for big trout is in Mississippi Sound,” says Yano Serra with Speck Tackle Lure Guide Service ((251) 610-0462, SpeckTackleLure.com). “For bigger trout, I usually use live croakers for bait.” For area information, visit GulfCoast.org.

Mobile Bay, Ala. As the fourth largest estuary in the United States, Mobile Bay encompasses more than 413 square miles. It measures 31 miles long and 24 miles at its widest point. Most of the bay averages 10 feet deep, but dredged channels drop to more than 75 feet deep in Red snapper

fish for tripletail, which hang around the buoys and crab trap floats.” An arm of the Gulf of Mexico, Mississippi Sound extends about 90 miles along the coast, extending into Louisiana and Alabama waters. Around sunken boats, casualties of numerous storms, anglers often catch monster speckled trout, plus redfish, Spanish mackerel and other species in Mississippi Sound, “About 85 percent of my

places. Several rivers flow into the bay, feeding a fertile estuary full of various fish species. Many people tempt speckled trout around the sandbars, small islands and oyster reefs of the bay. If you’re looking for trout, first look for bait. Specks eat a variety of morsels including shrimp, mullets, menhaden, croakers and other forage species, but bigger trout tend to eat more baitfish than shrimp. A five-pound speck can easily swallow a

12-inch mullet. The bay and surrounding marshes also hold good numbers of redfish. Redfish eat almost anything, but like nothing better than a blue crab. They frequently hunt along weedy shorelines looking for the delectable crustaceans. “Redfish eat anything, but they love crabs,” explains Bobby Abruscato, a professional redfish angler with A-Team Fishing Adventures ((251) 6617696, ATeamFishing.com). “With the blades spinning, I believe redfish think a spinnerbait is a crab. I’ve probably caught Speckled trout

more redfish on spinnerbaits than any other bait.” Flounder migrate into and out of the estuary twice each year. After spending the winter in deep Gulf waters, flounder move inshore in the spring and generally start showing up around March or April. Early in the season, look for flounder at the river mouths. Big flounder also hang around some gas rigs in Mobile Bay during the summer. South of Mobile, the Fort

JOHN FELSHER PHOTOGRAPHS

Morgan Peninsula separates Mobile Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. Dauphin Island and the extreme southwestern Alabama mainland create the eastern shoreline. Since the bay opens to the gulf, anglers might also encounter jack crevalle, Spanish mackerel and tripletail or head into the gulf to challenge tuna, wahoo and billfish. For area information, visit CityOfMobile.org.

Pensacola, Fla. Historic Pensacola Bay near the town of the same name stretches about 13 miles long by twoand-a-half miles wide in two parts. The Gulf Intracoastal Waterway runs through the bay, connecting Escambia Bay to East Bay. The system opens to the Gulf through Pensacola Pass. The entire estuary can provide good fishing for redfish, speckled trout, sheepshead, black drum, flounder and other species. Occasionally, jack crevalle, cobia, Spanish mackerel, bluefish and other species

when redfish action turns hot. In the fall, people sight-cast topwater baits to large pods of hungry redfish. Most reds average 15 to 25 pounds, but some break 40 pounds. “Every month we have a run of some type of fish,” says John Rivers of Mega-Bite Inshore Charters ((850) 3419816, MegaBiteInshore.com). “In Pensacola Bay, people can fish flats in one foot of water for redfish or 60-foot holes for red snapper I’ve seen schools of 100 to 500 redfish on the surface. The water boils with activity. I’ve even caught cobia in the bay.” For area information, visit VisitPensacola.com.

Destin, Fla. Although Destin, Fla., hosts one of the largest offshore charter boat fleets in the United States, sportsmen can also find great action close to shore. North of Destin, Choctawhatchee Bay measures about 27 miles long by five miles wide and covers 129 square miles. The

near the bridge pilings and docks, but also fish back in the marshes and bayous with lures. In June and July, we catch jack crevalle, Spanish mackerel, trout and redfish on topwater lures.” Anglers looking for bigger action need not run far. About five miles from the pass, natural bottom structure in about 60 to 90 feet of water hold good populations of red snapper and other reef fish. From about March through May, cobia migrate from east to west along the northern Gulf Coast and may come within a mile of shore in water less than 12 feet deep. For area information, see EmeraldCoastFL. com or BeachesOfSouthWalton.com.

Panama City, Fla. An incredibly rich ecosystem, St. Andrews Bay covers about 25,000 acres near Panama City, Fla. The system includes Grand Lagoon, West Bay, North Bay and East Bay. It connects to the gulf through

of the Gulf. We have a good speckled trout fishery in the bays and backwaters over the grass flats.” With little fresh water flowing into the bay except from some creeks and springs, the estuary remains very salty and incredibly clear, creating excellent sight-fishing conditions. Emerald water over sparkling sand flats remind anglers of the Florida Keys. Salt marshes and extensive grass beds provide habitat for numerous species. “The fishery here is very diverse,” says Jason Stacy of Shallow Water Expeditions Guide Service ((850) 534-4349, ShallowWaterExpeditions.com). “We can fish the backcountry for redfish at dawn and the flats later in the morning. Then, we can fish along the gulf beaches for cobia, mackerel, jacks, pompano and tarpon. Since the water is so salty, many gulf species come fairly close to shore. We’ve

Redfish

enter the bay from the Gulf of Mexico. In late winter, anglers catch lunker trout. In the spring, attention shifts to sheepshead. Most average five to 10 pounds, but some top 14 pounds. Sheepshead congregate around bridge and dock pilings, crunching barnacles and snatching shrimp or crabs. In the summer, the bay holds king and Spanish mackerel. By early fall, anglers target specks until mid-October

Choctawhatchee River flows into the system from the east. The bay opens to the Gulf primarily through Destin Pass. The bay averages about 15 feet deep, but does contain some holes dropping to more than 45 feet deep. “We have very diverse habitat in the bay,” says David “Catfish” Knight, ((850) 8377121, (850) 259-1110). “In May and June, I fish the grass flats with topwater baits for trout. For reds, we fish live shrimp

King mackerel

a pass near St. Andrews State Park. Another pass connects to St. Andrews Sound toward the east. “This is an awful good area to fish,” says Jeff Gager of J & J Charters ((850) 527-9730, SomedayLadyFishingCharters. com). “A lot of sheepshead and redfish hang around the jetties at the pass. We also catch bluefish, Spanish mackerel and small grouper there. At certain times of year, flounder move in and out

caught 60-pound cobia in the trough between the first sandbar and the shoreline.” For area information, visit VisitPanamaCityBeach.com.

Whether dropping a shrimp next to a bridge piling, tossing live bait to cobia or battling a monster redfish, the northern Gulf Coast still offers anglers abundant fishing opportunities. Anglers could spend a lifetime casting for lunkers in these locations and never fish the same spot twice.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

BEACHED WAI L S TREATING STINGS AND BURNS BY BROBSON LUTZ M.D.

“ O ne morning in P anama C ity

I was riding a bicycle on hard sand, hit a rut and scraped my leg,” says Johnny Wayne Walker, superintendent for an oil rig near Lafitte, La. “Later that afternoon I was in the surf. All of a sudden my leg felt funny. I looked down, and a stingray was nibbling at my leg. You could hear me a half-mile away. I screamed like a bitch and ran for shore. Never go in the Gulf with an open flesh wound.” “The most common problems we treat are sunburn, ear infections and foot injuries. Actually we see more children with ear infections than sunburn,” says Dr. Eduardo Gonzales, a physician who works at the Destin Clinic, an urgent care center close to the beach. “We also get tourists with jellyfish stings.“ Children and teenagers continue to suffer bad sunburn injuries as a spring or summer rite of passage. The deleterious consequences consist of more skin cancers and premature aging decades later. Sun protection, like Gaul, is divided into three parts – sun avoidance, protective clothing and sunscreens. Damaging intense midday UV waves are a good reason to encourage postprandial afternoon naps inside. Hats and wraparound sunglasses have replaced sunbonnets as important components of sun safety. Sunscreens come as gels, oils, butters, sticks and sprays. Recent market entries include sunscreens incorporated into wipes, moisturizers, shampoos, facial foundations and insect repellants. Teenagers and others with oily skin may prefer gel-based or sprayon products. Some folks are allergic to one or more ingredients in a sunscreen, and contact dermatitis can be a problem. Preparations containing opaque sun blockers such as titanium and zinc

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

oxide can exacerbate facial rosacea and acne problems. It should go without saying that people with acute sunburn should avoid additional exposure. Most sunburns heal with tincture of time, but cool showers and soaks along with soothing lotions of any brand can help with the discomfort. Low potency over-the-counter steroid creams help along with Tylenol or aspirin for pain. Physicians have an array of more potent steroids and other occasionally needed tricks of the trade. Swimmer’s ear is the bane of children who take to the water like ducks. The increased moisture from time in the surf coupled with a small ear canal sets the stage for a nice home for bacteria and fungi that thrive in cramped, moist conditions. Treatment depends on the severity of the infection. A simple diluted solution of vinegar often suffices, but most physicians tend toward more potent prescription eardrops. A good homemade eardrop recipe to prevent swimmers ear calls for mixing one part white vinegar with one part isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Douse all the at-risk ears with several drops of this solution after swimming; it will kill most bacteria and fungi on contact, and the alcohol helps additionally by drying out the ear canal, making its less hospitable for microorganisms. Drug stores sell a similar solution, but every camp I ever went to made their own. “During dry spells we do get an abundance of jellyfish, and sometimes they are the stinging type,” says Dr. John Kokemor, a New Orleans internist who spends frequent weekends on the Alabama coast. Jellyfish have stinging cells that can stay activated even if the jellyfish is cut apart or dies. The stinging varieties can cause anything from a minor local irritation to shock with cardiovascular collapse

depending on the toxicity of the involved species, the dose of the venom and the allergic response of the victim. Fortunately, fatalities are rare, and most persons who seek medical care have only self-limited pain lasting a couple of days. First aid for jellyfish stings includes plain old vinegar, which spells doom to the viable stinging cells. And just how dangerous are those stingrays? Half a world away, Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin was pierced in the chest by a stingray and died while snorkeling off the Great Barrier Reef. Maybe the stingrays in Australia are bigger and meaner, or maybe Irwin wasn’t using good sense. Our Gulf coast stingrays may want to nibble, but fortunately they have better manners. Most stingray injuries in our waters are painful punctures of a foot placed by its owner in the wrong place. Stingray punctures can be painful but aren’t deadly unless their spear-like appendage penetrates the chest or abdomen. Feet are rather tender human appendages once we shed our shoes for the sand and surf. Humans lack protective pads and hooves that serve animals so well. But I have seen some older feet with scales, crusts and calluses thick enough to prevent injuries from at least drink can tabs in the sand. So maybe wear tennis shoes while on the beach and in the surf? No way I’m going to suffocate my toes inside a shoe of any sort once I get near those pristine sandy beaches of the Mississippi, Alabama and north Florida coasts. Our Redneck Riviera has beaches second to none in the world.

Picking the best sunscreen The ideal sunscreen is easy to apply, nonirritating, long lasting and affords complete protection from all wavelengths of dangerous solar energy. Sunscreens fail when the Sun Protector Factor (SPF) isn’t matched to the degree of sun exposure, not enough is applied and reapplications aren’t frequent enough. New labeling laws prohibit claims of water or sweat resistance, but sunscreens that are relatively water resistant can be so labeled. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends daily sunscreen use for everyone to reduce the risk of skin cancer and slow premature skin aging. In most situations this reeks of overkill to me. Messing with Mother Nature a little bit to prevent sunburn on the beach or when gardening is one thing, but messing with Mother Nature this way on a daily basis may well lead to adverse effects, including Vitamin D deficiency. According to the AAD, the ideal sunscreen is water-resistant with a SPF of 30 or greater and provides broad-spectrum protection against both UV wavelengths. The AAD advises generously coating all skin not protected by clothing some 20 to 30 minutes before going outside. Most folks don’t use enough. A normal sized person usually needs about as much as will fill a shot glass. Protect lips with a lip balm or lipstick containing sunscreen. The best type of sunscreen is one you like enough to use repeatedly. There are all sorts of concoctions depending on personal preferences and the area of the body to be protected. The academy suggests creams for dry skin and the face areas, gels for hairy areas as the scalp and male chest, wax sticks for around the eyes, and a spray down for squirming children. Remember the key to successful protection is a liberal application. Source: American Academy of Dermatology aad.org

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

B L U E P R I N T S T O E XC E L L E N C E In 2012 New Orleans continued on the strong positive architectural trajectory increasingly evident in the last several years. While there were a number of high quality residential projects, this year we will again concentrate on the noteworthy institutional projects.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

By John P. Klingman PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFFERY JOHNSTON

T hi s i s the late s t completed project in the s eemingly

ever-expanding World War II Museum complex, an institution with a strong national profile that’s a premier attractor of visitors to our city. There are few spaces in New Orleans that have the impact of the new Freedom Pavilion. One reason is its scale. However, unlike a hotel atrium, it’s activated both by the vintage aircraft that fill the space and by walkways at three levels across it and along its edge. Museum President Dr. Nick Mueller explains that the pavilion was intended to showcase the large scale “arsenal of democracy” artifacts. In the absence of large warships, the biggest of these may be the building itself. The immense precast concrete panels and the interior metal elements of acoustical panels, aluminum guardrails and steel gratings are architectural manifestations of the same kind of industrial productive capacity. The huge north-facing front curtain wall ultimately will enfront the “parade ground.” It is spectacular at night with the contents highlighted in the glowing box. Architecturally, the moves are just right. The building has large expansive planer walls, but they’re tilted and skewed from the vertical and horizontal, creating a dynamic condition. The pavilion can also be used as a flexible event space, with a hydraulic stage that can rise from the flat concrete floor. With the aircraft forming a virtual ceiling, this is already one of the most memorable spaces in the city and a landmark from the bridge approach as well.

T h e N a t i o n a l W o r l d W a r II M u s e u m U S F r e e d o m P a v i l i o n:

The Boeing Center

Voorsanger Mathes LLC; Bartholomew Voorsanger, design principal; Martin Stigsgaard, Masayuki Sono, lead designers; Peter Miller, Issei Suma, Anastasiya Konopitskaya; Edward C. Mathes, managing principal; Peter F. Priola, project manager; Scott M. Evans, project architect.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T hi s year f ive

NORMAN MAYER B RAN C H N E W ORLEA N S P U B LI C LI B RAR Y

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

new New Orleans Library branch buildings opened, four of them as a design/ build venture with Gibbs Construction, Gould Evans Architects and Lee Ledbetter & Associates. One of the most successful architecturally is the Norman Mayer Branch Library located on Gentilly Boulevard adjacent to the Dillard University campus. It uses some of the same design strategies, elements and details as the Robert E. Smith Branch Library in Lakeview and the larger new buildings in Algiers and New Orleans East but here the choreography is exceptionally strong. Upon arrival the information/checkout desk is central with books and periodicals easily visible and

accessible in the open plan space. Toward the rear is the main stair with its steel grating guardrail. The second floor feels even more open and accommodating than the entry level, with great controlled daylight through west-facing windows with vertical steel shading devices to shield direct afternoon sun. Computer terminals are in the darker middle zone and at the front corner is a comfortable reading area that looks back out over the building entrance. Even on a weekday morning the library was busy, indicating its importance as a neighborhood institution. Lee Ledbetter & Associates; Lee Ledbetter, principal-incharge; Curtis Laub, Tara Cotterman, Chris Loudon, Amy Peterson; Gould Evans Architects; Tony Rohr, principalin-charge; Robert Riccardi.

A C ADE M Y O F SA C RED HEAR T

AR T S AND A T HLE T I C S F A C ILI T Y T hi s project combine s the de s ign o f

a new gymnasium with the renovation of an existing building into the Favrot Arts Center. Both of the structures are along Carondelet Street behind Sacred Heart’s iconic original building on St. Charles Avenue. A new steel truss bridge above Carondelet Street provides an exceptionally clear access to the new complex for students, and adds to the drama of the design. The bridge arrives at a large elevated porch along the front of the gym. The porch is occupiable both at the upper level and the lower entry level, where an exterior concession stand built into the brick gym wall activates the space. Monumental concrete columns support the roof and extend down along the outer edge of this outdoor room. The columns are formed to provide drainage channels from the large roof surface. The water flows into a raingarden at the base of the building and returns into the earth through rockbeds, recharging the groundwater and reducing runoff. On both levels one arrives along the edge of the main gym space after passing through a corridor that continues along the axis of the new bridge. Surrounding the gym floor are bleachers on two sides, an upper level track and a band of translu-

cent clerestory windows, providing strong ambient daylight below. Although designed for athletics, the gym also is a fine space for gatherings, allowing the entire high school to come together in one interior space. Equally supportive is the Favrot Arts Center, a thoughtful renovation that accommodates programs for the arts, music, dance and even broadcast. Perhaps most unusual is the outdoor ceramics studio that has found a home on the mezzanine that links the arts building with the gym. This covered breezeway with its kiln and worktables epitomizes the inhabitability of New Orleans’ indoor/outdoor world.

Waggonner & Ball Architects; David Waggonner, principalin-charge; Mac Ball, consulting principal; Sarah Weinkauf, Maria Papacharalambous, Ramiro Diaz, Charles Sterkx, Allen Tufts, Fred Allison, Dennis Horchoff.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

S t . K a t h e r i n e DRE X EL C HA P EL A T X A V IER U N I V ERSI T Y O F LOUISIA N A A n important building on the Xavier

campus opened this year. Designed by the nationally known firm of Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects, the project fulfills a longstanding dream of the university and its president, Dr. Norman C. Francis. Its position on the campus is significant, on axis with the location from which Pope John Paul II spoke on his 1987 New Orleans visit. The axis is clearly reinforced both outside and inside the chapel. On the exterior the building is frontally symmetrical, with an additional handsome element, the bell tower/day chapel on its right side. It is octagonal in plan; this is evident even from outside because of the eight-sided truncated angular roof form. Most evident are the high-quality construction materials: a beautiful white Portuguese limestone and the high-profile copper roof. The roof is tall, slightly evident even from the elevated 92

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Interstate 10 behind the building. Inside, beyond a skylit reception lobby, the sanctuary is approached frontally with the axis transformed into a vertical one inside the space. A screen that lines the interior lofted ceiling becomes a wonderful fabric of light from skylights above, but the main space comes upon one abruptly. Often in centrally planned churches the ambulatory, the walkway around the central space, plays a strong transitional role. Usually rather dark, as at Santa Costanza, an early Christian church in Rome, it provides a breathing space before one finally engages the sanctuary. Fortunately, the ambulatory here is graced with finely fused-glass windows by local artist Laurel Porcari, which add a smaller scale humane sculptural presence. The chapel is a peaceful place on the active, growing Xavier campus.

Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects; Cesar Pelli and Fred Clarke, senior design principals; Mitchell Hirsch, principal-in-charge; Dave Coon, project architect; Mark McDonnell, Alex Kovenat; Waggonner & Ball Architects, (Consulting Architect for Construction Administration) Mac Ball, principal-in-charge; David Waggonner, consulting principal; Dennis Horchoff, project architect.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

T he mo s t unu s ual building thi s year

also houses the most unusual institution, a nonprofit created by Tulane University and City Park: the Grow Dat Youth Farm. The new facility supports the farm, where 35 high school students work learning to grow and harvest crops for local consumption.

GRO W DA T YO U T H F ARM C I T Y P AR K

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

The students are paid for their work, and they learn about caring for and preparing the vegetables for the table. Under the auspices of the Tulane City Center, more than 50 upper level students from the Tulane University School of Architecture (TSA) were involved in every aspect of design and construction of the project in studios led by professors Abigail Feldman, Emilie Taylor and Scott Bernhard (full disclosure: the author is also a TSA faculty member). With the building now virtually complete, the farm began operations in 2012. Managing a fledgling nonprofit, Youth Farm co-directors Johanna Gilligan and Leo Gorman recognized that resources are precious, so the building had to be highly efficient and low in cost. The building utilizes seven recycled standard shipping containers. Some provide the storage necessary for production; one even houses the farm office and conference space. The steel containers are strong, so they provide much of the support and lateral bracing for the roof structures. Some containers are organized around the airy double-height outdoor classroom thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the heart of the project. This space, open for cross ventilation, is a comfortable place for informal events with its generous roof and louvered screens providing shade and shelter. The project is sustainable to a fault; roof water is collected and composting toilets are featured. The farm is located on one of the former golf courses, abandoned after Hurricane Katrina. The fields were bioremediated, and a new bioswale enhances onsite water storage and groundwater recharge. This project Scott Bernhard, architect of showcases the ways record and design team leader; that architecture can Emilie Taylor, project design/ build leader and senior designboth inspire and super; Dan Etheridge, bio-systems port our collective designer and project/community aspirations. development leader.

RO S A F . K ELLER LI B RAR Y A N D C O M M U N I T Y C E N T ER T he R o s a F . K eller L ibrary and

Community Center is a gem. The Community Center occupies an early 20th century Arts and Crafts-style raised house that was civil rights pioneer Keller’s home; the Broadmoor Branch of the New Orleans Public Library provides a contemporary counterpoint. From the street, the two buildings appear as a linear mass, almost like a train. The complex craftsman facade of the community center is balanced by the simple mass and ubiquitous metal screen that wraps the new building. The entry is in between, allowing either structure to be used independently. On the neighborhood side of the community center there’s a ground-level deck and garden terrace. Had the terrace been located at the same level as the café inside, the indoor/ outdoor connection would’ve been even stronger. However, the outdoor seating is welcome and the space has already become a miniature park for the neighborhood. Rainwater runoff control is also an important element of planning, appropriately in this low

part of the city. Roof water is brought into a small pool near the entrance and then down into a wellplanted raingarden defined by very chunky walls of concrete construction. The interior is as successful as the exterior. The contrast between the richly paneled rooms of the community center with the wonderful freeflowing space of the library provides an encapsulated lesson in the history of architecture during the century that separates the construction of the two buildings. The central courtyard of the library is a welcome New Orleans element that augments daylight in the reading areas. The exposed heavy timber structural system changes direction in ways that correspond to the different uses below. Tying the building together is the lighting system of vertical fluorescents that unify the interior brilliantly. A feisty neighborhood and a strong design team have produced an outstanding project.

Eskew+Dumez+Ripple; R. Allen Eskew, project principal; Steve Dumez, design principal; Kurt Hagstette, project director; Jason Richards, project architect; David Demsey, Mark Reynolds, Robert Kleinpeter, Rick Dupont.

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

ADVERTISING SECTION

Colon Cancer

Medical Guide According to the American Cancer Society, colon cancer is the third most commonly diagnosed cancer and third leading cause of cancer death in both men and women in the United States. Fortunately, breakthroughs in detecting and treating the disease are making it possible to help those at risk or diagnosed. The following area healthcare providers may be able help you and your family learn your risks or access quality treatment. From making healthy choices to routine screenings, simple steps can help achieve successful outcomes. Consider showing some care for your colon by contacting a physician today.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

At Metairie Gastroenterology, patients can expect convenience, compassion and top quality care. Drs. David R. Silvers and Nicholas J. Persich have built Metairie Gastroenterology’s outstanding reputation by providing exceptional care on a one-to-one basis over the past 30 years. Drs. Silvers and Persich are pleased to welcome Dr.Vernon J. Carriere, Jr., to the medical staff at Metairie Gastroenterology. Dr. Carriere specializes in GI procedures, including upper endoscopy, colonoscopy and ERCP, a procedure that tests the bile duct and pancreas. Metairie Gastroenterology’s focus is to be the premier practice in the region for disorders of the digestive tract and to provide a positive experience for every patient. Colorectal cancer screenings are life saving

procedures. Colon cancer, if diagnosed early, is curable. Colonoscopy is done under sedation as an outpatient procedure and is the gold standard for detecting and removing colon polyps, which are precursors of colon cancer. Drs. Silvers, Persich and Carriere specialize in this lifesaving procedure and strongly encourage men and women 50 and over to consider an exam. Visit Metairie Gastroenterology at MetairieGastro.com or call (504) 456-6701. Their office is located at 4228 Houma Blvd., Suite 120, in Metairie. West Jefferson Medical Center’s Endoscopy Department on the West Bank, recognized by the American Society of Gastrointestinal Endoscopy, promotes screening and early detection of colorectal cancer. Physicians and staff

ADVERTISING SECTION

at West Jefferson remind readers that this form of cancer is one of the leading causes of cancer-related deaths in the United States. Many people with the early stages of colon cancer do not have symptoms. That’s why early detection by screening is so important. Most colon cancers start with polyps, which can slowly develop into cancer. Polyps can be found by screening and removed before they can develop into cancers. Early diagnosis often leads to a cure. West Jefferson Medical Center Endoscopy offers a comprehensive range of testing including colonoscopies. Additionally, the West Jeff Fitness Centers offer wellness and nutritional services to help individuals embrace healthier lifestyles. To find a gastroenterologist, visit wjmc. org, call (504) 349-2054 or visit your personal doctor.

Since opening its doors in 1994, the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional has been a leader in providing the best cancer care anywhere in the Bayou Region. Accredited with Commendation by the American College of Surgeons Commission on Cancer and the only program in Louisiana to twice receive the College’s Outstanding Achievement Award, the Center provides compassionate, comprehensive cancer care. More than $20 million has been invested in facilities and technology to ensure the Center remains on the forefront of cancer treatment allowing patients to receive the highest level of care in one place. With safer, leading-edge technology and use of the best clinical protocols available, Thibodaux Regional has cancer survival rates that exceed national norms for

breast, prostate, colon and lung cancer – the four most prevalent forms of cancer in our region. These numbers are largely due to the extra measures taken by physicians and staff at the Center to ensure patients receive the individualized care they deserve. To find out more about the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional, visit Thibodaux.com. One condition that predisposes a person to having colon cancer is inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), or more specifically, ulcerative colitis and Crohn’s colitis. Patients with IBD have an increased risk of colon cancer and require more frequent screening colonoscopies especially if they have had the disease for greater than seven years. Studies have also shown that there is an increased risk

of colon cancer in those with a more active disease state. The Tulane Inflammatory Bowel Disease Center specializes in the care of these chronic diseases. The center’s director, Dr. Nabeel Khan, has a special interest in studying the association of ulcerative colitis and colon cancer and has received a federal grant to study the association of certain drugs with colon cancer in the setting of ulcerative colitis. Under the guidance of Dr. Khan, the center provides a comprehensive treatment plan in a dedicated Inflammatory Bowel Disease clinic with access to the latest, cutting edge experimental treatments. For more information on IBD and the Tulane IBD Center, call (504) 988-5110 or email Christine.cottrell@ hcahealthcare.com. •

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

ADVERTISING SECTION

south walton

Spring Travel Destinations Roll down the windows and hit the road. Spring is perfect weather for traveling in the South, and along with Louisiana, neighboring states offer diverse landscapes and cultural attractions perfect for family vacations, romantic getaways or weekend retreats with a group of friends. Beaches, byways and grand, sweeping balconies – enjoy the vista of your choice with help from this travel destinations guide. Find real estate rentals, hotels, resorts and more among available accommodations, and as to entertainment, the sky’s the limit.

Alabama Beauty, history and adventure all come together in Alabama, a place where each meal is a celebration, each town has a story and each day brings new discoveries. As the weather warms, interest grows in Alabama’s 32 miles of sugar-white sands and turquoise waters. Family friendly accommodations and attractions abound along the coast, also an ideal destination for romantic getaways and weekend trips with friends. One-of-a-kind experiences include watching sea turtles hatch, interacting with sea life at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, touring historic Fort Morgan and fishing off of the Gulf State Pier.

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Alabama is also perfect for exploration and adventurous road trips, where visitors find unique, off-the-beaten-path treasures. Foodies can taste their way around the state with famous barbecue joints such as Dreamland in Tuscaloosa and Big Bob Gibson BBQ in Decatur or award-winning culinary destinations such as Highland’s Bar & Grill and Hot & Hot Fish Club in Birmingham. Check out the list of 100 dishes to eat in Alabama before you die to discover more places to find fresh seafood or generations-old soul food. For more vacation ideas and attractions, visit Alabama.travel. Connect with your kids, your friends and your family while driving Alabama’s Coastal Scenic Byway this spring for a funfilled break from school, work and everyday life. Break out the maps or GPS, or download the Coastal Byway App and stop where you want and when you want, finishing your scenic drive on the sugar sands of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach. Whether you want to hang out and relax on white sands, hike or bike in any of their several parks, fish the plentiful waters or visit Weeks Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, there’s no end to what you can do while on the Alabama coast. Be sure to pick up a basket of fresh lunch to go at a local seafood shop or simply stop for lunch and plan the rest of your day. Dinner plans are just as easy. Visit GulfShores.com/neworleans to plan your stay. No one delivers romantic Gulf Coast getaways like Spectrum Resorts. Turquoise Place and The Beach Club are two of the area’s most desirable resorts for starry-eyed lovers with upscale accommodations and resort amenities unmatched

ADVERTISING SECTION

anywhere on the Alabama Gulf Coast. Cherished moments abound, as across the resorts couples are able to enjoy breathtaking sunsets on private, Gulf-front balconies, indulge in relaxing spa services and laugh together while strolling the white and soft sandy beaches. Spectrum Resorts requires no payment until 14 days prior to your vacation, and there’s no cancellation fee up to 14 days prior (for stays of less than 27 days). Visit Spectrum Resorts online to take a tour of Turquoise Place and the Beach Club. Spend some time with your significant other or spouse this spring, and book your romantic getaway with Spectrum. Reservations may be made online at SpectrumResorts.com or by phone at (855) 203-1514.

bushes have been brought into Bellingrath Gardens, where they are zealously guarded for this and other generations to enjoy and admire. When Bellingrath Gardens and Home opened its gates in 1932, azaleas and camellias were the signature flowers, and today visitors can enjoy more than 250,000 bushes throughout the 65-acre garden. Plan a visit to Bellingrath this March and experience azalea season and the beauty of spring on the Gulf Coast. While at Bellingrath, tour the Bellingrath Home, complete with original furnishings and Mrs. Bellingrath’s extensive collection of decorative arts. For hours, admission, and more information, call (800) 247-8420 or visit Bellingrath.org.

Just a short drive outside of Louisiana is one of the world’s most magnificent resorts. In 2013, The Grand Hotel Marriot Resort, Golf Club & Spa was named as one of Travel + Leisure’s “Top 500 Hotels in the World.” Located in Point Clear, Ala., the hotel first opened in 1847 and has grown to include 405 large guest rooms across 550 acres, two golf courses, seven restaurants and lounges, a spectacular 500,000 gallon pool and a European-style spa, ranked among Marriott’s best. The Grand Dining Room reopened March 1 with a steakhouse concept while keeping many of the resort’s signature seafood dishes. For wine lovers, The Grand will host an OPUS wine dinner on Fri., March 22. After an evening of great food, enjoy a beautiful day of golf, dive into their pools or escape to the spa. Start planning your Grand getaway. Visit MarriottGrand.com or call (251) 928-9201.

Meyer Vacation Rentals is your beach vacation and concert connection. The fourth Annual Hangout Music Festival has set the stage to bring incredible music to the sugar-white sands of Gulf Shores, Ala., May 17-19. Imagine the warm sun sparkling off the gentle waves in the emerald green waters and your toes in the cool sand as you listen to your favorite bands and discover new ones. Three-day Hangout Music Festival passes may be purchased at the time of your reservation (while supplies last). Meyer offers the most diverse selection of beach houses and condos on the island, making it the perfect getaway destination for spring and summer vacations. Choose your view, whether gulf-front, lagoon or bay, all featuring living areas and fully equipped kitchens. Look for specials and Hot Deals online at MeyerRE.com, where you can reserve your spot for fun in the sun, or call (866) 727-6089.

Take your spring vacation to Alabama’s Gulf Shores or Orange Beach and see why Gulf Shores Rentals has been one of the region’s favorite vacation services for more than 20 years. Gulf Shores Rentals ensures terrific properties and remarkable deals, so you and your family will be enjoying fun in the sun in no time. Not only does Gulf Shores Rentals help you find your dream vacation rental property, but complimentary golf, fishing and entertainment can be included as well. Springtime offers perfect golfing weather, so gather up a foursome and hit the links. Want a relaxing, romantic retreat or an exciting full-fledged family vacation? Take advantage of spring weather with great specials – stay with Gulf Shores Rentals March 15-May 15, and get four nights for the price of three nights (condominiums only). Call (866) 966-8715 for details. For extra savings, check out the hot deals updated daily on their informative website, GulfShoresRentals.com, and find your place in the sun today. In the middle of the 18th century, Fifise Langlois brought three colors of azaleas from his childhood home of Toulouse, France, to Mobile, Ala. The azaleas are woven into Mobile’s history, and in 1770, when the Spaniards took Mobile, they marveled at the glory of these flowers. Some bushes planted during the middle of the 18th century have become almost trees, towering 15 to 20 feet in height and measuring over 100 feet in circumference. Many of these ancient and unparalleled

Louisiana Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter is located in the heart of the French Quarter on world-famous Bourbon Street. They offer 186 comfortable guest rooms, more than 4,000 square feet of market-leading meeting facilities, an outdoor pool, tropical courtyard, 24-hour fitness and more. Café Opéra, the Four Points’ full-service restaurant, features a classic New Orleans menu of Creole and continental cuisine. Guests can also enjoy a wide selection of specialty drinks at the Puccini Bar. Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter is located on the site of the French Opera House (1859-1919), a legendary New Orleans cultural venue. Their performance series, “Opera Returns to Bourbon Street” features local operatic talent from the New Orleans Opera Association and local classical vocalist group Bon Operatit. For more modern musical tastes, Four Points’ hosts the weekly “Live & Local” musical series, featuring local jazz and contemporary music. Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter is located at 541 Bourbon St. in New Orleans. For reservations and more, call (504) 524-7611 or visit FourPoints.com/frenchquarter. With a prime downtown location at the corner of St. Charles Avenue and Poydras Street, the new Blake Hotel New Orleans invites guest to experience the sophistication, innovation and convenience of this newly remodeled hotel. Highlights of guest services include complimentary wireless internet access,

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

ADVERTISING SECTION

L’Auberge Casino & Hotel Baton Rouge LCD TVs with free premium channels, access to an extensive on-site fitness center with state-of-the-art ProMaxima® equipment and perhaps most importantly, easy access to the local restaurants and attractions for which New Orleans is known. The Blake Hotel makes you feel right at home in the center of America’s most unique city. Located on the St. Charles streetcar line and Lafayette Square, the hotel features an onsite restaurant, Café at the Square, and a large event space with a wrap-around, 400-capacity balcony perfect for southern receptions. Just blocks from the charms of the French Quarter and the excitement of the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, the Blake Hotel’s unbeatable location promises only a walk, short drive or streetcar ride to whatever you choose to do. For more information and reservations, visit BlakeHotelNewOrleans.com or call (504) 522-9000. This past summer, Baton Rouge welcomed Louisiana’s newest destination for exciting gaming, delicious cuisine and thrilling nightlife at the L’Auberge Casino & Hotel Baton Rouge. Spanning across 575 acres of land, this truly unique casino entertainment complex captures the feel of a Southern river lodge. Embracing local culture and cuisine, L’Auberge Baton Rouge offers a genuine Louisiana experience and exudes a Laissez les bon temps rouler atmosphere of fun. L’Auberge Baton Rouge is located in the heart of South Baton Rouge and features an expansive 74,000-square-foot casino with nearly 1,500 slot machines, 50 table games, a 12-story hotel with more than 200 rooms and a rooftop pool, as well as three restaurants and a casino bar with

100

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

breathtaking views of the Mississippi River. L’Auberge also features a multi-purpose event center for concerts, banquets and other events, and additionally, the complex includes outdoor festival grounds. To find out more about L’Auberge Casino & Hotel Baton Rouge, visit mylauberge.com or find them on Facebook and Twitter. Nestled between Baton Rouge and New Orleans is Houmas House Plantation and Gardens, the “Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road.” This historic property boasts the South’s most beautiful, lush and vibrant gardens. Stroll the 16 acres of gardens, tour the magnificent mansion, dine in your choice of several restaurants, its casual Café Burnside or in its fine dining restaurant, Latil’s Landing, named as one of America’s Top 20 Restaurants by Esquire Magazine. New to the property is a magnificent restaurant The Carriage House, modeled after Jame Gallier’s original drawings for the property. Houmas House has become an important venue for local and destination weddings, which you may witness when visiting the grounds. There are two mansions on site: the French House, built in 1770, and the Big House, begun in 1805 and completed in 1828. Each is home to a museum-quality collection of art, antiques and artifacts in this icon of Greek Revival Architecture. Houmas House is what one dreams of when thinking about a Southern Plantation. Recently restored and open to the public seven days a week, experience Houmas House’s rich history and beauty by taking a day or evening tour, and find a wealth of information, photographs and more on their website, HoumasHouse.com.

ADVERTISING SECTION

Festival season kicks off in high gear this spring in beautiful Bayou Lafourche. Let the good times roll at the Family Fun Festival on April 5-7 at the Larose Regional Park & Civic Center and fill your belly April 19-21 at the Lockport Food Festival, “La Fete du Monde.” Also, don’t miss the Thibodaux Fireman’s Fair May 2-5 complete with a Firemen’s Parade and a carnival mid-way. Celebrate on into summer at The Bon Mange’ Festival on June 7-9 in Gheens. Each festival boasts an abundance of genuine Cajun food as well as music to keep you moving. Spring is also a great time of year to venture outdoors and see Louisiana’s unique wetlands. From April 4-7, Paddle Bayou Lafourche provides the opportunity to experience the natural elegance of Bayou Lafourche. Paddlers choose between one to four days to participate in this 52-mile adventure from Donaldsonville to Lockport. For more information or to register, visit btnep.org. Find endless events and attractions at VisitLafourche.com and experience all Lafourche has to offer. Looking for a place with rich heritage and tradition, a place that embraces a sense of small town charm just steps from a big city? Visit “New Orleans’ Most Historic Neighbor,” St. Bernard Parish, located along the Mississippi River and only five miles from downtown New Orleans. Walk in the footsteps of Andrew Jackson at the historic Chalmette Battlefield or learn the traditions of the Canary Islanders at the Isleños Museum, the last vestige of Spanish Colonial Louisiana. While there, be sure to try your hand at some of their world-class fishing or meander down the historic San Bernardo Scenic Byway, viewing stately old plantation homes, ancient oaks and picturesque bayous along the way. St. Bernard offers visitors a truly memorable experience, and this spring, there’s no lack of events to keep you entertained. Visit March 3 for the Irish, Italian, Isleños Parade, the Los Isleños Festival March 15-16, and popular Louisiana Crawfish Festival March 21-24. For all the details and additional attractions, call (504) 2784242 or check out VisitStBernard.com.

Florida Quiet and friendly, Navarre provides respite from bustling hot spots while Destin, with its Caribbean spirit accented by European sophistication, offers a romantic escape. Foodies can indulge in the Beaches of South Walton’s unique culinary experiences while families can find exciting activities and attractions for all ages on Okaloosa Island and Orange Beach. Plan your 2013 travel destination today, by visiting WyndhamVacationRentals.com or find them on Facebook.com/ WyndhamVacationRentals. Located in Northwest Florida, South Walton boasts 26 miles of sugar-white sand, turquoise waters and 16 individual beachside neighborhoods, each with its own personality and visual style. In South Walton, luxury accommodations, challenging golf, eclectic shops, funky art galleries and awardwinning dining are part of the area’s distinctive character and relaxing atmosphere. Adventure seekers will enjoy stand-up

paddle boarding, kayaking or fishing on one of the area’s many waterways including the area’s 15 rare coastal dune lakes. More than 200 miles of trails invite nature lovers to hike through state parks and forests. From the nation’s largest designer outlet to an eclectic mix of funky and sophisticated boutiques and galleries, South Walton is a shoppers’ paradise. Foodies relish the fusion of flavors created by award-winning chefs using fresh-from-the-gulf and locally sourced ingredients. Create memories that will last a lifetime; visit South Walton and find your perfect beach. Visit online at VisitSouthWalton.com. Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort is rated the No. 1 resort in the Destin, Fla. area and the Emerald Coast, known for its beautiful and clear emerald green waters. The resort features more than seven miles of beaches and pristine bay front, four immaculately manicured championship golf courses, 15 worldclass tennis courts, 19 swimming pools, a 113-slip marina, a fitness center and spa and The Village of Baytowne Wharf. Spring is phenomenal at Sandestin. The lovely temperatures are the perfect backdrop for activities like the 27th annual Sandestin Wine Festival, featuring celebrity guest Paula Deen. A picture-perfect festival, complete with white tents, flowing wine, food and live music at The Village of Baytowne Wharf in Sandestin, April 18-21. Take advantage of Sandestin’s FREE Night offer this spring (code: FREE5) or great offers for the Sandestin Wine Festival (code: WINE13). Visit Sandestin.com/nom or call (866) 544-1026 for more information. For those dreaming of a vacation getaway along South Walton or Destin’s sugar white sand beaches, added value is offered for those who book early. With consistently “excellent” rankings on TripAdvisor, Newman-Dailey Resort Properties has been turning dreams into reality for more than 27 years. From birthday celebrations and family gatherings to romantic escapes and weddings, families have long trusted NewmanDailey to provide the backdrop for life’s special moments. Guests of Newman-Dailey also receive a Newman-Dailey gift card good for the Southern Star dolphin cruise, Big Kahuna’s Water Park, The Track, golf and more. Area events add to the excitement. The Sandestin Wine Festival in April, Spring Break family programs and ArtsQuest in May give families plenty of reasons to get back to the beach. Newman-Dailey features a diverse selection of rentals, from a quaint beachside inn to exquisite Gulf-front homes and condominiums. Call (800) 225-7652 or visit DestinVacation.com for full selection of well-appointed rentals. Hilton Sandestin Beach Golf Resort and Spa is a Conde Nast-rated Top U.S. Resort and Top 20 Florida Golf Resort. The sugar white sands and emerald green waters of Northwest Florida consistently earn these beaches the ranking of most beautiful in the world. With 600 rooms and suites available, Hilton Sandestin Beach offers a variety of accommodations. Guests enjoy the incomparable expanse of deck overlooking the gulf, indoor and outdoor pools, resort activities and amenities designed to delight both children and adults,

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

101

ADVERTISING SECTION

including the indulgent Serenity by the Sea Spa, and casual to four-diamond rated dining options. The Kids Krew offers activities for young children and teens, like the Teen Water Excursion for 14- to 18-year-olds. Hilton Sandestin Beach has something for the entire family. Rates vary by season but special seasonal packages are always available. Call (800) 367-1271 or visit HiltonSandestinBeach. com/getaways for exclusive summer savings, such as the Picture Perfect Fun Package available through May 23. The package includes daily beach setup, breakfast for two and a disposable camera to capture all your adventures.

Texas Visiting Houston this spring? The Hilton Garden Inn Houston Galleria Area hotel is located in the heart of the Uptown District, just a few steps from the world-renowned Galleria Shopping Mall. Exclusive boutiques, moderate shops, restaurants and cafes are all within walking distance, and HGI Galleria also provides complimentary shuttle service within a threemile radius of the hotel.   The Great American Grill serves a full cooked-to-order breakfast, dinner and evening room service – try the delicious new dinner menu or grab a quick bite from the 24-hour Pavilion Pantry. Start your day off in the fitness center and unwind later with a cocktail in the lobby bar. It’s always sunny in Houston.

102

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Visitors can enjoy a dip in the tropical outdoor pool or relax in the heated whirlpool. Standard rooms feature a king-size bed with sofa bed or two queens, mini-fridge, microwave, coffee maker, complimentary high-speed internet access, remote printing, a spacious work desk with an ergonomic chair and much more. Stay HGI Houston Galleria Area – upscale yet affordable. Call (713) 629-0101. •

ADVERTISING SECTION

Spring Fever

Just as the groundhog predicted, winter has made way for spring, and people in New Orleans are ready to enjoy one of the nicest months of the year. Spring fever is spreading, manifesting itself in new home projects, outdoor drinks with friends, blooming art exhibits and performances popping up all over the region. Whether you’re beginning some spring cleaning or just looking to have a good time, there is plenty to do, see, eat and drink around the city this season. For your spring fever, consider the following local offerings just what the doctor ordered.

Home Organization & Renovation Welcome the newness of spring with a new look for your home. Visit Floor & Decor Design Gallery at 2801 Magazine St. and prepare to be inspired by their vast selection of tile, wood, bamboo, laminate, marble, travertine, granite and slate. With thousands of square feet of material in stock, Floor & Decor also promises unbeatable prices, even on specialty high-end decorative lines such as Ken Mason, Alysedwards, Bon Ton Tile Artistry, Ceramic Tile Trends and Art Glass Mosaics. With the largest in-stock selection of Carrara Marble in New Orleans and multiple varieties of Reclaimed Heart Pine flooring, Floor & Décor can provide a look that will wow your guests for years to come. Conveniently located with off-street parking, Floor & Decor offers complimentary design services from their staff of friendly designers happy to help with any project, large or small. Floor & Decor offers delivery, installation and financing. For more info, call (504) 891-3005 or visit FloorAndDecorOutlets.com. In Gretna, visit 4 Westside Shopping Center, (504) 361-0501.

One way to cure your spring fever is a common annual household tradition: spring cleaning. Get organized this spring with help from New Orleans’ organization experts, California Closets. Located at 3211 N. Causeway Blvd. in Metairie, California Closets is a local leader in enhancing the storage and organization of any space. From closets and pantries to garages, offices and media centers, California Closets’ custom designs and quality materials add comfort and elegance to any room of your home, and accessories such as drawer dividers, belt and tie racks, valet rods, pull-out baskets, bins and more make organizing easier than ever. For more information, visit their Metairie showroom or call (504) 828-5705. For an online gallery of various storage options and info, visit them on the Web at CaliforniaClosets. com/Metairie. For other specials and updates, like them on Facebook.

Shopping & Relaxation Since 2005, the Northshore has been home to a locally owned and nationally known boutique that has rescued women from years of discomfort and misguided purchases. Bra Genie, the creation of bra-fitting expert Jeannie Emory, has grown from a one-on-one home fitting service to a full-scale Mandeville store with a staff of 13 experienced fitters and an inventory of more than 10,000 bras and accessories. With the largest inventory in the south, Bra Genie stocks bras ranging from 28-48 in bands and AA-KK in cup size with prices as low as $30. The results of a proper bra fitting at Bra Genie often surprise women. Effective bras can work magic in the sexy,

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

103

ADVERTISING SECTION

slimming department by elongating the torso and lifting the breasts, and in some cases, they can eliminate back or neck pain women experience. Open Monday-Saturday from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. and located at 2881 Highway 190, Bra Genie welcomes walk-ins, though there may be a brief wait since each personalized fitting can take about 30 minutes. For more information on Bra Genie, visit TheBraGenie.com or call (985) 951-8638 to schedule an appointment.

hydrotherapy footbath. After rinsing the old, callused skin away, Le Visage experts restore the skin to tiptop shape. Next, enjoy a relaxing foot or hand/arm massage to increase blood flow and revitalize the skin and increase energy. Finally, spagoers receive the finishing touch – one of several beautiful new shades from Butter London Nail Polish. Manicures begin at $20, and pedicures at $45. To schedule your salon date, call (504) 265-8018.

Mark your calendars. Acclaimed fashion designer Donald J Pliner will make a personal appearance to present his Spring 2013 Collection at Saint Germain on Friday, March 15 from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Pliner and his wife, Lisa, will also debut their new Italian-made Signature Collection featured as an exclusive to Saint Germain and 20 other selected stores across the nation. There will be music, beverages and desserts at the event located at The Shops at Canal Place. In addition to Pliner’s award-winning shoes and handbags, Saint Germain carries French hair accessories and fine jewelry and handbags by designers from all over the world. For more than 30 years, owner Faye Cannon has brought the best in fashionable shoes and accessories to New Orleans and is known for catering to each customer’s individual style and desire. Fearless, passionate and knowledgeable, Cannon keeps both locals and international customers coming back to see what’s new at Saint Germain. To see the latest designs, or for more information, visit SaintGermainNewOrleans.com or call (504) 522-1720.

Dining

Mignon for Children has been an iconic presence in New Orleans for more than 50 years, offering fine infant and children’s apparel as well as a large selection of toys, books, music, costumes, gifts and unique New Orleans items for the discerning customer looking for the unusual. Spring festival season is here, and Easter is upon us. Mignon has a fabulous selection of warm weather merchandise to choose from, such as their exclusive New Orleans shirts, a new design for Jazz Fest and other items perfect for festival attire and other outdoors activities. Be sure to stop in for the latest unique items arriving daily. For additional information please call (504) 891-2374 or visit Mignon in The Rink at the corner of Prytania Street and Washington Avenue in the Garden District, open MondayFriday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and Saturdays, 10 a.m.4 p.m. Be sure to sign up for new e-mail blasts by sending a note to mignonchildren@aol.com. Spring is in the air and you’ll want to feel and look your best. Located Uptown in the Riverbend area, Le Visage Day Spa is the perfect one-stop spot for a relaxing and rejuvenating massage or facial. Consider a manicure or pedicure for brushing off the winter blues with the hottest spring nail colors. All Le Visage services start with relaxation therapy. Begin your mani or pedi with a tasty house-made fresh juice or warm tea. Rest your upper body with a warm neck and shoulder pillow before slipping into a

104

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

Maximo’s has been a French Quarter hot spot for more than 25 years. Serving Tuscan-style roasting with a fiery New Orleans twist, Maximo’s is an oasis of Northern Italian sophistication. The restaurant features an open kitchen and a grill bar, where the discerning diner can watch and interact as staff prepares cuisine that rivals the best restaurants from New York to Rome. Fresh local meats, cheeses and produce are delivered daily to create Maximo’s famous Fire Roasted entrées. Dine on Ravioli d’Anatra or New Orleans famous Crawfish Fra Diavolo. Pair the kitchen’s specialties with a bottle from Maximo’s extensive wine list. With a following of locals, celebrities and business people from all over the country, Maximo’s wine list, craft cocktails and gastronomic delights warm the soul. The energy of New Orleans music and culture blends with exquisite Italian food creating an experience you won’t soon forget. For menus and more, visit MaximosGrill.com, or call (504) 586-8883 for reservations. A self-described “Spirited Restaurant,” SoBou elevates the adult beverage to a level of esteem, a pleasurable accompaniment to a whimsical yet Commander’s-quality meal. The latest venture of the Commander’s family of restaurants, SoBou, short for “South of Bourbon,” offers guests a customizable dining experience, from small plates and drinks to a full three courses. Throughout 2013, SoBou is partnering with Museum of the

commander’s palace

ADVERTISING SECTION

American Cocktail (MOTAC) with a monthly series of boozy seminars every first Monday of the month, each focusing on a different aspect of cocktail culture. Advance tickets may be purchased at MuseumoftheAmericanCocktail.org and limited seating is available. Meanwhile, March and April are perfect months to enjoy a “Sunset in the Courtyard” cocktail in SoBou’s verdant courtyard connected to the W French Quarter Hotel. This flavorful concoction consists of Reposado Tequila, Blood Orange Liqueur, fresh lime juice and a drizzle of Grenadine and comes with a free pair of SoBou sunglasses. For more information and reservations, contact SoBou at (504) 552-4095 or online at SoBouNola.com. In celebration of being awarded Wine Spectator’s Grand Award, Commander’s Palace is hosting a series of wine dinners throughout the spring and summer of 2013. In 2012, only 75 restaurants worldwide received the Grand Award, the highest given by Wine Spectator. To celebrate, award-winning winemakers from across the country are collaborating with Commander’s Palace “Wine Guy” Dan Davis and Chef Tory McPhail in a series that kicked off Jan. 30 with Emmy-winning sports commentator Jim Nantz, wine entrepreneur Peter Deutsch and their Sonoma-based wine brand, The Calling. Dan Davis has taken great care in selecting partners among top American producers, and Chef McPhail expertly pairs each wine with a several-course feast. In May, Commander’s Palace will host a dinner featuring the Staglin Family Vineyard. In August, Davis and McPhail will team up with esteemed sommelier Raj Parr. Reservations are required for each dinner. For more information and to make reservations, call (504) 899-8221 or visit CommandersPalace.com. With Lent upon us, seafood sustenance is in high demand around New Orleans. In this city, having the freshest catch of the season isn’t a luxury; it’s a way of life. At Robért Fresh Market, their seafood department carries it all – from redfish, catfish, and grouper to crawfish, crab and shrimp, enjoy it fresh for any meal. And you can get hot boiled seasonal seafood every day. Additionally, Robért’s can handle all your catering needs. They offer a wide selection of party platters including mixed sandwiches, fruit and imported cheeses, sushi, salmon, assorted pâtés and a number of desserts. Also available are gourmet salads, pastas, prepared prime meats and favorite local classics such as Cajun Jambalaya and Seafood Filé Gumbo. Robért’s offers a daily array of freshly prepared entrées, sides, and soups that you can take home for dinner with your family or a special occasion. For convenience, Robért’s can deliver all of your grocery and catering orders directly to your home or office. For more information and a location near you, visit RobertFreshMarket.com. Now that spring is upon us, the weather couldn’t be better for enjoying café au lait and beignets in the beautiful outdoors of … City Park. It’s true – Morning Call Coffee Stand, “New Orleans’ most famous coffee drinking place,” has recently opened its newest location under the ancient oaks of City Park in the Timken Center, otherwise known as the old casino building.

The new location marks Morning Call’s return to Orleans Parish, where it originally operated in the French Market from 1870 until its move to Jefferson Parish in 1974. The new location boasts the same decadent coffee, sugar-dusted beignets, and signature mirrored walls and bare bulb lighting as its Fat City counterpart. Visit Morning Call in City Park and experience a time-honored tradition of New Orleanians for more than 140 years. Both the City Park and Fat City locations are open 24 hours, seven days a week, and 364 days of the year. For more information on either location, visit MorningCallCoffeeStand. com or call (504) 885-4068. On Monday, April 8, Louisiana’s top chefs will gather in New Orleans to celebrate the rich culinary heritage of our state with a magnificent feast benefiting a great cause. The American Culinary Federation New Orleans (ACFNO) will host their annual Best Chefs of Louisiana event, which features creations from 28 of the state’s esteemed culinary experts as well as libations and live entertainment. Chefs Susan Spicer, Leon West and Frank Brigsten have handselected menus from participating chefs, ensuring the individuality of each creative dish. Presenting sponsors Moët Hennessy USA and Community Coffee, along with Silver and Bronze sponsors New Orleans Brewing Co. and Coca-Cola, will be providing beverages galore. “You eat and drink ‘til you drop!” says Chef T. Participating chefs are among New Orleans’ best, including Cowbell’s Brack May, café b’s Chris Montero, One’s Scott Snodgrass and Jacque-Imo’s Jacques Leonardi. Music will be provided by Louisiana Spice. Tickets are $75. Proceeds benefit Children’s Hospital and sponsor the education of a local culinary student. For tickets and information, visit ACFNO.org.

Art & Entertainment From March 8 through June 16, the Archdiocese of New Orleans, along with the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) and curators from the Museum of Biblical Art in Dallas, will present a special exhibit on the life and ministry of Blessed John Paul II through Portrait of Faith: John Paul II in Life and Art, hosted at NOMA. Visitors to Portrait of Faith will begin their journey with a preexhibition movie detailing the life of John Paul II as well as his historic 1987 visit to New Orleans. Following the movie, visitors will re-create the Pope’s 1987 visit, from the anticipation and arrival at the Superdome, Mass at UNO, Xavier visit and finally, his departure and legacy. Artwork, photographs and personal items complement each area. Visitors will be able to contribute personal thoughts and memories of John Paul II in an interactive portion of the exhibit. Admission is $15 for adults with discounted rates available for seniors, active military, large groups, children and students K-12 on school tours. For more info, visit JPIIinNOLA.com, call (866) 608-4799, or follow on Twitter (@JPIIinNOLA). Old Masters to Monet: Three Centuries of French Painting from the Wadsworth Atheneum is on view at the Mississippi Museum of Art in Jackson, Miss., March 23 – Sept. 8. The exhibition features 50 masterpieces of French art ranging from myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

105

ADVERTISING SECTION

the 17th-19th centuries and into the beginning of the 20th century. Théodore Géricault, Eugène Delacroix, Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Paul Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Claude Monet are among the masters represented. This exhibition was organized by the Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Hartford, CT, and is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities. Old Masters to Monet is the 13th installation of The Annie Laurie Swaim Hearin Memorial Exhibition Series at the Mississippi Museum of Art. Admission is $12 for adults, $10 for seniors (60+), and $6 for students. For more information, visit MSMuseumArt.org or call (601) 960-1515. The New Orleans Ballet Association (NOBA) presents Martha Graham Dance Company (MGDC) March 23 at Mahalia Jackson Theater. Founded in 1926 by legendary modern dance pioneer Martha Graham, the MGDC created an American dance revolution and became “one of the seven wonders of the artistic universe.” (Washington Post) A trailblazing genius, Graham captured the spirit of her time and created groundbreaking works that continue to inspire and captivate audiences. Today, this extraordinary company honors Graham’s legacy with a dramatic and exciting evening of Graham classics, rare films and newly commissioned works. The program is highlighted by the New Orleans debut of Graham’s masterpiece Appalachian Spring (1944), set to the famous Aaron Copeland score, and a special performance of Panorama (1934) danced by New Orleans youth in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the NORDC/NOBA Center For Dance. Tickets are available by calling NOBA at (504) 522-0996 or at NobaDance.com. •

New Orleans Ballet Association 106

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

118

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

TRYTHIS A

H O W - TO

F OR T H E MONT H

A Saturday Scoot By SARAH RAVITS

f an outing has potential for any of

the following elements: downtown, adrenaline, food and/or being outside, chances are low that I’ll say no. So when my friend Jenny discovered a Groupon deal for a 24-hour Vespa rental through EagleRider of New Orleans, I was stoked. Never mind that neither one of us had ever driven a Vespa before and we’re both prone to hilariously awkward mishaps. I had been on the back of a scooter, which was easy so long as I held on to the person in front of me, and I figured that driving the thing would be almost as effortless. So we signed the waivers and listened to our briefing on how to turn the key, how to brake and the other few necessities. (It took us longer to pick out “cute” helmets.) I began to accelerate when my attempt to maneuver out of the parking lot was thwarted by my first obstacle: A curb appeared (out of nowhere!), and I toppled over after braking way too fast. The scooter sort of landed on me, springing a gas leak. The nice man from inside the shop, who’d bid us adieu just seconds earlier, ran over to see if I was OK (I was embarrassed, and I could feel a bruise forming on my right leg, but I was more concerned about the damage I’d inflicted upon the bike and my wallet after so hastily and confidently declining insurance). I brushed myself off and took a deep breath, remembering an inspirational cliché my mom told me after I fell off a horse in my youth. Jenny was already light years (a block) ahead of me so I shakily caught up, automatically more cautious and realizing I probably wasn’t going to be crowned “Badass of the Day,” as I’d hoped. We cheered as we successfully navigated our first big intersection and met up with our friend Jeff, a seasoned Vespa owner who served as our chaperone for the day and gave me several friendly reminders about proper usage of my turn signal.

Travel

We cruised from Mid-City to Bywater, where we stopped at Satsuma for brunch. Our next big stretch was down Rampart Street, where I caught a glimpse of a guy casually pushing around a broken toilet from the confines of an old grocery cart. We scooted under the oaks past beautiful mansions on St. Charles Avenue, and we took a break at the levee behind the zoo to watch the riverboats. Our friend Lewis joined us on his scooter and the four of us cruised down Magazine Street, turned onto Tchoupitoulas Street and headed back downtown for the final lap of our victory tour on Frenchmen Street. The day was rain-free, but chilly, which added to the European, free-wheelin’ feel of our adventure. We stopped to warm up at a coffee shop, and on the way home, we made one final stop at Jenny’s parents’ house to prove that we’d thus far survived our journey. All in all, it was a great day and a fuel-efficient way to explore the city. I did end up owing some money for my misadventure in the parking lot (one of the handlebars was bent) so next time I’ll insure myself. I’m not invincible, but I’ll continue to be a junkie for fun.

Grand Hotel’s Fresh Look for Spring (251) 928-9201, marriottgrand.com

The Grand Hotel in Mobile, Ala., has been a treasured spot for 166 years. This year, the hotel is reopening its signature pool the first weekend in March. It is also revealing newly renovated dining rooms in which to enjoy the award-winning wine and cuisine. The experience of being able to enjoy a romantic weekend that takes in the spa, or a family fun vacation with sailboats and bikes will, however, remain the same. – M ir e l l a c am e ra n

Travel

Newman-Dailey sweetens a taste of Destin (800) 225-7652, DestinVacation.com

The sugar-white sandy beaches of Destin, Fla., are always a desirable destination. The South Walton Beaches Wine & Food Festival (April 25-28), which features more than 800 wines, creates yet another reason to go. So, too, does the Newman-Dailey Properties with a 10-percent discount on any stay of four nights or more from April 13 until May 15, 2013. This includes the Newman-Dailey’s premier condominium resort, Jade East Towers in the heart of Destin. The roomy units with pool, tennis courts and seasonal beach service also come with a gift card, a dolphin cruise and more. – M . C .

myneworleans.com

MARCH 2013

119

STREETCAR

A Tradition To Dye For B Y E R R O L L A B O R D E

f you’re ever in Effie, La., on the day before Easter,

head to the Red River. There, at Ben Routh state park, you’ll see people picnicking, barbecuing and wearing decorated bonnets. If you look closely you’ll also see an endangered tradition being preserved – it’s called egg knocking. Located in Avoyelles Parish, Effie is a dot in the road somewhere between Marksville and Alexandria. Culturally, if Avoyelles Parish was a country it would be Switzerland, minus the mountains, chocolate and army knives. Its similarity, though, would be a central location where cultures blend. Just as Switzerland is part French, Avoyelles is the northernmost outpost of French Louisiana. Cross the Red River and the dialects change. Even among the French there are divisions. Though many locals are raised in the Cajun culture they’re not Cajuns, but descendants of Napoleonic soldiers who were given land grants there. Common to the French though, both Acadian or otherwise, is the custom of what is property called egg “paquing” (taken I presumed from “Pâques,” the French word for Easter) but what we Americans call “knocking.” I was raised in New Orleans but in a paquing household. Even as adults my mom, who was a native of Avoyelles Parish, bought a Paas egg-dyeing kit. Each Good Friday while the oysters were frying (our own personal tradition) we would dye eggs. Two days later we would bring them wherever we were going to be knocking. Like the sport of boxing, this is a one-on-one event. Each person holds an egg with the pointed end up. One person taps the shell of the other’s egg. Whichever egg breaks is surrendered to the other person. Sometimes, just to keep the action going, contestants will meet again and tap the rounded ends. (It has been said that dyed eggs taste better than those that are not. I have concluded that this is true, but probably because the colored one have been around for a day or two and thus developed a fuller flavor, whereas regular non-Easter boiled eggs are usually eaten sooner.) As a kid I thought that everyone knocked eggs and was surprised to learn that they did not. One might have thought that the Creoles would have preserved the custom, but perhaps spring in New Orleans offered such a bounty so as not to create much place for boiled eggs. Fortunately the French parishes, from Avoyelles heading south, have done better. To this day eggs paquing is still held on the Marksville Court House grounds each Easter Morning. And now, for the last eight years, there has been the Easter on the Red River event at the state park. For the competition, contestants are lined up across from each other. Boiled eggs are distributed, and then there’s a massive knockathon. As is true with any contest, there’s a way to cheat. Egg knocking hustlers have long known that the egg of the guinea hen, though smaller, has a tougher shell that can outdo any conventional chicken eggs. The prize, however, which amounts to possessing a bunch of cracked eggs, may not be worth the sin. Most of the time though, the custom is practiced without anyone going over the moral cliff. We learn from preserving our customs: Today’s tradition is tomorrow’s egg salad.

120

MARCH 2013

myneworleans.com

ARTHUR NEA D ILLUSTRATION