New Orleans Magazine October 2013 by Renaissance Publishing

Heather Mahoney, Honey and Holli Gaspard

October 2013 VOLUME 49 NUMBER 1 Editor Errol Laborde Managing Editor Morgan Packard Art Director Eric Gernhauser Associate Editors Haley Adams and

Lauren LaBorde Contributing Editor Liz Scott Monaghan Food Editor Dale Curry Dining Editor Jay Forman Wine and Spirits Editor Tim McNally Restaurant Reporter Robert Peyton Home and Garden Editor Bonnie Warren Interns Paige Nulty and Nina Takahashi

The difference between your world before someone you love is diagnosed with Alzheimer’s and after is everything. Your whole life changes in an instant. Honey was 72 when we first started seeing signs of dementia. We watched this vivacious, sparkling, beautiful woman, whose conversations were filled with “Honeyisms” about life and beauty, gradually become fearful, confused, apprehensive and withdrawn. We knew something was wrong but we didn’t know what until the diagnosis in November 2007. Over the past few years, Honey has gotten worse, its become more and more frustrating that we can’t do anything but keep our mom comfortable. If Honey could talk now, she would tell us to help others to not get this disease. We have become even more determined to make a difference in other people’s lives out of respect to our mom.

We invite you to join us to stop Alzheimer’s.

Last year, our Walk to End Alzheimer’s raised $40,000. Our family, friends and clients, everyone supported Honey’s Bunch, our walking team. We were a Top 15 fundraiser nationwide. This year, we’re doing the walks on the northshore and southshore, and we’re going for Top 10. Northshore: Sat., Nov. 16, Fontainbleau State Park, 8AM

For registration, information and join team Honey’s Bunch visit alz.org/walk or contact Preston Meche at (504) 648-4076. 2

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Account Executives

Erin Fontenot, Maegan O’Brien, Elizabeth Schindler Sales Assistant Erin Maher Azar Web/Production Manager Staci Woodward McCarty Production Designers Sarah George, Antoine Passelac Web Editor Haley Adams Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive VICE PRESIDENT/Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Executive Assistant Kristi Ferrante Distribution Manager Christian Coombs SUBSCRIPTIONS Erin Duhe

WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Beth Arroyo Utterback Managing Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper

2013 Walk to End Alzheimer’s

New Orleans: Sat., Oct. 19 Audubon Park, 8AM

Erica Northcott Adams

Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo

With one-in-three expected to have Alzheimer’s by 2050, it’s time we get serious about finding a cure.

Heather Mahoney and Holli Gaspard

SALES MANAGER Shannon Smith Senior Account ExecutiveS Jonée Daigle Ferrand,

NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 Subscription Hotline:

(504) 828-1380 ext. 251 or fax: (504) 828-1385

Online at www.MyNewOrleans.com

National Award Winner “Streetcar” by Errol Laborde, 1st Place Winner, Columns Category City & Regional Magazine Association 2013 New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 8281380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2012 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

CONTENTS 10.13 VOL. 49 NO. 1

WEST TOWARD RECOVERY PAGE

ALL IN THE FAMILY PAGE

100

THE KENNEDY ASSASSINATION 50 YEARS LATER PAGE

FEATURES 86 The Kennedy Assassination 50 years later Whether it was a lone gunman or a conspiracy, New Orleans had footprints. by Michael L. Kurtz

92 Death of a daily a year later Excerpt from Hell and High Water: The Battle to Save the Daily Times-Picayune by Rebecca Theim

96 West Toward Recovery George and Wendy Rodrigue recall a sometimes frightening year of projects, prognosis and progress. by William Kalec

100 All in the Family Legacy businesses six decades or older by Judi Russell

IN EVERY ISSUE ON THE COVER President John F. Kennedy in a May 1962 visit to New Orleans. ( A P P h oto / B S ) 4

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8 12 14 143 144

INSIDE “Matters of Conspiracy” speaking out Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon JULIA STREET Questions and answers about our city Try This “Dance for the Not So Advanced” STREETCAR “The Woman in the Plane”

TABLE TALK PAGE

PERSONA PAGE

CONTENTS CHRONICLES

THE BEAT 20 22 26 28 32 34 38 39 40 42

PAGE

MARQUEE Entertainment calendar PERSONA Jason Smith, forward/center, New Orleans Pelicans newsbeat “Open Enrollment Begins for Advantage Plans” Biz A new era in health insurance dawns in Louisiana newsbeat “New Legislation Mandates School Shooting Preparedness Drills” Education “Anthony Amato Redux” HEALTH ”A Revelation About Prostate Cancer” HEALTHBEAT The latest news in health from New Orleans and beyond Crime FIghting “Gun Locks, Beignets and the Dalai Lama” newsbeat ”WTC Plans May Endanger Ferry Service”

LOCAL COLOR 44 48 49 52 56 58 60 62

THE SCOOP “What to Do to Get Into the Halloween Spirit” music “Albert Murray: Performance in Language” Read & Spin A look at the latest CDs and books CAST OF CHARACTERS ”Jays and Tigers” 50 years after the state title game MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS “Purses are a Girls’ Best Friend” Joie d’Eve “Around the Block Again” CHRONICLES “The Other Time to Wear a Mask” HOME Regina Lynch’s modernized Creole Cottage

THE MENU 68 70 72 76 78

table talk “New Southern” restaurant insider “Restaurants New and Revisited” FOOD ”Ode to Oktoberfest” LAST CALL The French Quarter 75 DINING GUIDE

DIAL 12 D1 WYES-TV will air GREAT PERFORMANCES “40th Anniversary” on Fri., Oct. 18 at 9 p.m. Then on Sun., Oct. 20 at 7 p.m., tune in to MRGOing, Going, Gone?, a new documentary focusing on the lessons learned from the Mississippi River Gulf Outlet (MRGO), which contributed to the loss of valuable cypress swamp which for centuries protected the city of New Orleans and coastal communities. 6

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MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS PAGE

CRIME FIGHTING PAGE

IN SID E

Matters of Conspiracy

ew O rleans is a great town for

conspiracy theories, even if the conspiracies don’t exist. There are enough shadows and shadowy figures to give one pause. Being a port city adds mystique, as one wonders just who steps off the ships, even if the ship just arrived from a seven-day cruise to Cancun. During the half-century since the assassination of John F. Kennedy the city has been mentioned prominently in many of the theories. Lee Harvey Oswald was born and raised here. Not long before the assassination he was seen downtown handling out flyers concerning Cuba. Carlos Marcello, the local Mafia chief, had contempt for the Kennedys. Then there was district attorney Jim Garrison’s post-assassination far-flung investigation, which ultimately fell flat and hurt many people along the way. I am one of those people who believe that Oswald acted alone and that there was no conspiracy. As one veteran investigative reporter told me a few years ago, over the decades all of the sleuths in the world had a chance to prove otherwise and could have achieved wealth and fame had they done so, but no one has successfully been able to make the case. (For the most convincing analysis of the incident check out Cased Closed: Lee Harvey Oswald and the Assassination of JFK, by Gerald Posner, Random House, 1993.) Nevertheless it remains easy to conjure up a conspiracy theory and to make New Orleans part of the scene. Consider this, for example: actor Edwin Booth, John Wilkes’ brother, spent much time performing in New Orleans. Could he have been used as a conduit to funnel money and directions in the plot to assassinate President Lincoln? Many planters risked seeing their fortunes lost to a Union victory. There is, of course, no evidence of a New Orleans link to Lincoln’s death, but the point is just how easy it is to make a case. The Kennedy assassination remains forever muddled because of the actions of one man, Jack Ruby, who shot Oswald. Had that not happened and Oswald lived to be interrogated, we could have learned more about the facts. Ruby adds a cloud though, and the conspiracy theories will live on. What is a clear fact is that New Orleans will forever be linked to the assassination, even if its role was more tangential than actual. Our cover photo shows Kennedy at City Hall on the day, May 4, 1962, when he visited New Orleans to dedicate the then new Nashville wharf. There was genuine excitement about the president’s visit. School kids lined St. Charles Avenue. New Orleans loved Kennedy that day, though somewhere in the crowd that the president is waving to there could be a shadowy figure. He might have evil thoughts; or he might just be looking for a place to cool off in the shade.

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On The Web Read More Magazines Online You’re already flipping through New Orleans Magazine, but you can also read all of Renaissance Publishing’s titles as digital editions online. To flip through the latest issues of New Orleans Homes & Lifestyles, Louisiana Life and more, visit MyNewOrleans. com/DigitalEditions.

SEE YOU AT THE NEXT EVENT We’ve got lots of Renaissance Publishing events coming up. Check out the latest details at our new event page at MyNewOrleans.com/Events.

FIND OUT WHO’S ONSTAGE

The latest issue of OnStage, our guide to New Orleans’ performing arts scene, comes out this month in our sister publication St. Charles Avenue Magazine. It will also be published online Oct. 1 at MyNewOrleans.com/OnStage.

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S P E A KI N G O U T

The Times-Picayune Fiasco – A Year Later

ctober marks a year since T he T i mes - P i ca y u ne ,

the city’s longtime daily newspaper, was reduced to three homedelivered editions a week. Advance Publications, the Newhouse family appendage under which The Times-Picayune is placed, has reduced the frequency of several newspapers within its empire both before and since. Nowhere has there been the negative reaction and pubic anger as there has been in New Orleans. In speaking of the controversy it is important to make a distinction between The Times-Picayune the newspaper, which though greatly reduced in staff is still capable of publishing some good editions, and Advance, which has not only gutted a once great daily newspaper but insulted a city. By most accounts The Times-Picayune was still profitable at the time of the cutbacks. We understand the arguments about newspapers versus the age of the Internet. Other publishing companies have, however recognized that daily newspapers still have appeal, and a market, and that they can peacefully coexist and perhaps provide enhancement to the web. Yet under the direction of family member Steve Newhouse, Advance has wanted to be quick with the knife. Smaller markets had already undergone the radical surgery with barely a whimper. New Orleans would be different. What the Newhouses did not understand about the city’s bond with its newspaper is that in less than a decade the two were joined together by two overwhelming events; one horrible, the other triumphant. During the days of the Katrina recovery, that T-P became more than just a newspaper, but a guide to rebuilding. There was the practical need to know news as well as the passionate works of columnists such as Chris Rose. The newspaper in many ways held the city together. Then in 2009 there was the Saints drive to the Super Bowl, a story that left the city dazed. A new cast of heroes had arisen, and suddenly a city that only a few years earlier was left for dead stood as a champion. The T-P headline on the days after summarized the emotions of the time, “AMEN!” That was the life that New Orleanians lived with the newspaper as its guide, then along came smooth talkers from Advance speaking of slash and burn, trying to dazzle us with digital and telling us how great it was all going to be. They just did not understand. As though to make the changes sound even more sterile, they even, at first, introduced Orwellian newspeak. Instead of “reporters” and “editors” there would be “content providers” and “curators.” There was no dignity. If a business feels the need to make cutbacks in order to survive it certainly has the right to do so. The publisher of a daily newspaper, however, has more of an obligation to a community. The dissemination of news is so important that the business is even referred to as the fourth estate. No other industry is protected by the First Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. Operating a daily newspaper is a responsibility not to be taken lightly. (There may have been more local tolerance of the cuts had they been less draconian. Locals might have understood a shift to five

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times a week or a permanent switch to tabloid size. Instead, New Orleans got the bullet between the eyes while, since then, changes at other Newhouse-owned big city dailies have been less harsh. Cleveland’s Plain Dealer was allowed to remain publishing seven days a week, though without home-delivery on certain days. Recently the Portland-based Oregonian was cut to four days rather than the three to which New Orleans was sentenced.) During the past year we have seen the emergence of The Advocate, based in Baton Rouge, but now publishing its own New Orleans edition. Many of its staff members were stars from what, in retrospect, was the golden age of The Times-Picayune. In a short time The Advocate has emerged as a respectable newspaper with daily delivery. Advance has responded with a charade suggesting that the T-P is daily again based on its four times a week Street Edition, which is only sold a newsstands, and its Sunday edition, which it produces an early edition of Saturday. In Newhouse math that equals seven. In our math that still equals only three home-delivered editions. We maintain our respect for those who work for The Times-Picayune as well as our disappointment in those who own it. We also wish The Adovcate the best. To challenge an established, but minimized, newspaper in modern times so vigorously is unprecedented. The industry will be watching. May you provide it with faith in the power of the printed word.

A N O R I G I N A L © M I K E L U C K O V I C H C A R T O O N F O R N E W O R L E A N S M A G A Z I N E

JULIA STREET

W IT H P O Y D R AS THE PARROT

T H E P U R S U IT T O A N S W E R E T E R N A L Q U E STI O N S “Pops” Whitesell photographed himself while having his portrait painted by an artist thought to be Alexander Drysdale, circa 1929.

Dear Julia, My mother worked for Pops Whitesell in the 1920s at the Preservation Hall location in the French Quarter. He was a photographer. Can you tell me anything about him and his work? Betty Harper N ew O rle a ns

Joseph Woodson “Pops” Whitesell (1876-1958) was born an Indiana farm boy. A self-taught photographer who built his own cameras and photographic apparatus, Whitesell started shooting pictures in his late teens but it was decades later before he settled in New Orleans. In his early 40s, Whitesell rented an apartment and studio at 726 St. Peter St., which later became Preservation Hall. Especially adept at Rembrandt lighting, which mixed natural artificial light 14

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for dramatic artistic effect, Whitesell was, in the 1940s, ranked as one of the world’s top salon photographers. In ’46, the 70-year old photographer had a 58-photograph one-man show at the Smithsonian Institution. Authors Sherwood Anderson, Sinclair Lewis, Earl Stanley Gardner, WPA writer Lyle Saxon and assorted Carnival royalty were among Whitesell’s photographic subjects. Gardner, a close personal friend and creator of Perry Mason, used Whitesell as inspiration for the character Gramps Wiggins who figured prominently in Gardner’s mystery novels The Case of the Turning Tide (1941) and The Case of the Smoking Chimney (1943). A small man who weighed little more than 100 pounds, Whitesell became increasingly

frail in the last five years of his life. Never caring a great deal about money, he spent his last years in poverty. Months before his death, friends sold his remaining prints in an effort to raise funds to cover his personal needs. Whitesell died Feb. 18, 1958, and was laid to rest in Terre Haute, Ind. In ’78, approximately 2,400 Whitesell negatives, mostly portraiture, were donated to Tulane University. Dear Julia and Poydras, I recently came across an article in which you allude to a certain photographer, a James Henry Scoggins, who worked out of two or more studios in New Orleans from about 1850 to when he died (March 29, 1904). Your reference to him was in response to a question from a Jeffrey Murray in August of 2010 regarding a photograph taken

Win a Court of Two Sisters Jazz Brunch Here is a chance to eat, drink and listen to music, and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question. If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for one of two Jazz Brunch gift certificates for two at The Court of Two Sisters in the Vieux Carré. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com. This month’s winners are: David Criddle, Gainsville, Fla.; and Dr. David Friedman, Potomac, Md.

J osep h W h itesell P h otograp h C O urtesy T H E H I S T O R I C N E W O R L E A N S C O L L E C T I O N

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of a militiaman in New Orleans. James, of course, was the photographer. He is also my great-great grandfather about whom I’ve been striving somewhat desperately to find more information about. My direct line goes through Effie R., daughter of his second wife, Mary T. Jackson. I know his birth, death date and that he was a photographer, but know very little about his life or that of his family other than what’s given in vital records and the census; nor do I have any photographs of him – which I’m trying to find. I have researched photographers in the area but wasn’t able to find his name tied to anything – until now, thanks to you. Could you tell me anything more about him? Where might I go to perhaps find more of his photos; perhaps even find pictures of he and his family? David Criddle G a i ne s v i lle, FL

Even though James Henry

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Scoggins was active in the local photographic community for many years, he doesn’t appear to have attained widespread professional notice. Perhaps a clue can be found in the fact that, in the early 1870s, advertisements promoted his Poydras Street studio as a place where one could obtain for $10 an oil picture “that formerly cost $50.” In the late 1860s and early ’70s, city directories show another Scoggins working as a Poydras Street photographer. Thomas R. Scoggins, perhaps a brother, briefly worked in James Henry Scoggins’ studio but neither the 1870 nor the ’80 federal census clarify his relationship to James. Scattered examples of James Henry Scoggins’ work occasionally show up at places such as The Historic New Orleans Collection, which has two pictures by Scoggins. Unfortunately, they have no further information on this New Orleans-based

photographer or his unidentified subjects. Dear Julia and Poydras, When I was growing up in New Orleans, there was a wonderful New York-style pizza restaurant on North Rampart Street: Gibby’s Pizza. Saturday nights there were quite entertaining with Gibby tossing pizzas and the food was always great. Whatever happened to Gibby and his restaurant? David Friedman Potomac, MD

From 1956 through the ’70s, Gibby’s Pizza House operated at 616 N. Rampart St. Its name was somewhat of a misnomer since the place also served steaks, seafood, chicken and salads. The site later became another popular local Italian eatery, Mama Rosa’s Slice of Italy. Dear Julia, I’m absolutely intrigued with the LaGarde Hospital and lake-

front area history. I noticed in old photographs of those areas there appears to be a large 10-ring drive-in movie theater located at what looks like Canal and perhaps Robert E. Lee boulevards. If so, would it now be Peridot Park? Can you provide insight as to when the drive-in was built, what it was called, who owned it, who were the patrons, when it was removed and insight regarding other drive-in theaters in the lakefront to City Park areas? Patrick Bloodworth Cov in gt on

You are absolutely right. The Drive-In Theatre was only around a brief time but it was located on Canal Boulevard, about a block lakeside of Robert E. Lee Boulevard. Comparing old aerial photographs with modern satellite views of the area, I would place the theater on Canal Boulevard near Jewel and Sardonyx streets. It was

The Drive-In Theatre was located near Robert E. Lee and Canal Blvds.

clearly not located at the site of Peridot Park, which is a tiny park at the intersection of Robert E. Lee Boulevard and Canal Boulevard. The Drive-In Theatre seems to have operated from 1940 until about ’44. It didn’t survive World War II. The Drive-In Theatre opened for business on Tues., May 28, 1940. It was operated by Modern Theatres, a recently incorporated Louisiana company headed by Charles K. Woolner. Golden Boy, starring Barbara Stanwyck, Adolphe Menjou and William Holden, was the first feature

projected on the 30-by-40-foot screen at the center of parking spaces, which were laid out in concentric rings and designed to accommodate up to 500 automobiles. Inviting family audiences to “Enjoy Cool Lake Breezes and See a Swell Movie in the Comfort of Your Car,” the drive-in offered two shows nightly. Admission was 10 cents for children and 26 cents for adults. The Drive-In Theatre sat on prime lakefront real estate the Orleans Levee Board wished to develop. In the early 1950s, in order to create one new

upscale residential subdivision, developers not only razed the city’s first drive-in theater but demolished the adjacent Navy and Veterans Administration hospitals, both of them new and having a combined capacity of 1,100 beds. The history of lakeshore reclamation and development is, indeed, interesting. Dear Julia, My Acadian ancestor, Francois Louis Gaudet (born 1727), and his family arrived in New Orleans from Nantes, France, on the La Caroline, a Brig, on Mon., Dec. 12, 1785, after 54 days at sea. The trip was hard. Many died and were susceptible to smallpox. The Spanish government’s second in command, Navarro, built separate men’s and women’s dormitories in Algiers where they recuperated and became seasoned to the climate and country for a month before mov-

ing on to Bayou Lafourche. I have never been able to locate these dormitories in Algiers. I wonder if Poydras has seen these dormitories on his many flights over Algiers and would share this information with me and our many Acadian descendants. Elmer L. Gaudet Bilo xi, Miss.

Although it’s an established fact that some Acadians were housed in Algiers prior to heading off to settle along Bayou Lafourche, I’m unaware that anyone has established the exact location of the dormitories where the Acadians stayed. The original buildings were, no doubt, razed long ago, but no historic marker marks the site. Until Poydras perfects time travel or some hitherto unknown document emerges from the French National Archives, showing or describing the exact spot where the dormitories were located, the precise location may remain lost to posterity.

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THEBEAT MARQUEE

PERSONA

BIZ

EDUCATION

HEALTH

CRIME FIGHTING

NEWS

PERSONA:

Jason Smith PAGE 22

Forward/center Jason Smith is the longest tenured player on the Pelicansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; roster. He begins his fourth season in New Orleans this year.

GREG MILES PHOTOGRAPH

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T HE BE A T OUR

MARQUEE

T O P P I C K S O F T H E M O N T H’S E V E N T S BY

LAUREN

LABORDE

A MONTH OF MUSIC

A sleepy summer finally gives way to a New Orleans music calendar exploding with touring acts – just a month before we were looking for something to do, now an average weeknight presents several, often conflicting, options. The recently opened Civic Theater includes Passion Pit and The Joy Formidable on Oct. 11 among its prime bookings. Also on Canal Street, Diana Ross performs at the renovated Saenger Theatre on Oct. 30. Champions Square isn’t just for tailgating; Sigur Ros plays there on Oct. 3 and fun. on Oct. 5. One Eyed Jacks hosts the buzzed-about HAIM on Oct. 6, Jessie Ware stops at House of Blues on Oct. 21 and Republic has James Blake on Oct. 30. The month’s arena shows include folk rockers Lumineers on Oct. 16 at the UNO Lakefront Arena and neo-crooner Michael Buble, above, at the New Orleans Arena on Oct. 22. If you don’t have concert fatigue by the end of the month, there’s Voodoo Experience the first weekend of November.

Vampires and ‘Desire’

The 2013-’14 seasons for New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet Association open this month. Perfect for a city frequently linked with those creatures of the night, Marschner’s The Vampire (Der Vampyr) opens Oct. 11. NOBA also honors New Orleans with its season opener, Scottish Ballet’s dance adaptation of A Streetcar Named Desire. Information, NewOrleansOpera.org and NobaDance.com.

Cinema Celebration

This year’s New Orleans Film Festival has New Orleans-produced films opening and closing the festival. Twelve Years a Slave, right, Steve McQueen’s adaptation of Solomon Northup’s autobiography, is the opening night screening, which McQueen is expected to attend. The festival closes with Bayou Maharajah: The Tragic Genius of James Booker, Lily Keber’s documentary about the eccentric New Orleans piano player. In the interim the festival features local, national and international feature, documentary, animated and short films screened at various locations. Information, NewOrleansFilmSociety.org.

Oct. 3-5. The Ponderosa Stomp festival, various locations. Information, PonderosaStomp.com

Oct. 4. D.L. Hughley and Eddie Griffin, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNola.com Oct. 4-6. Gretna Heritage

Festival, Downtown Gretna. Information, GretnaFest.com Oct. 5. Art for Arts’ Sake, Warehouse District and Magazine Street.

Information, cacno.org Oct. 7. Broadway at NOCCA presents Jane Krakowski. Information, BroadwayNola. com

OCTOBER 2013

Oct. 12. Japan Festival,

Oct. 11-26. Oktoberfest, Rivertown. Information, DeutschesHaus.org

Oct. 12. A Prairie Home Companion with

Oct. 11-13. Louisiana

Garrison Keillor, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNola.com Oct. 13. Celebracion

Latina, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonInstitute. org/CelebracionLatina

New Orleans Museum of Art. Information, noma. org

Wynton Marsalis & the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra, Oct. 13

Ponderosa Stomp, Oct. 3-5

Seafood Festival, City Park Festival Grounds. LouisianaSeafoodFestival. com

myneworleans.com

CRAIG MULCAHY PHOTOGRAPH

SPOTLIGHT

FANFARE FOR THE SAENGER General manager David Skinner discusses the reopening of the Saenger Theatre

In a culmination of a slow resurgence on Canal Street, the Saenger Theater, which suffered significant damage following Hurricane Katrina, is back. The theater underwent a $52 million restoration and announced an enviable slate of upcoming programing, including a Book of Mormon helmed Broadway lineup, stand-up comedy shows, concerts and everything in between. Jerry Seinfeld opened the theater with three shows in late September, and a concert Oct. 5 featuring the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra and multihyphenate Kristin Chenoweth serves as the theater’s official opening gala. Saenger general manager David Skinner, who holds the same position at the Mahalia Jackson Theater, discusses the much-anticipated opening. Why did you choose

Oct. 13. Wynton Marsalis & the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNola. com

the Kristen Chenoweth concert for the theater’s opening event? We want-

ed a pick an artist we thought was indicative of the kind of venue we are, which is a performing arts venue. We have Broadway, we have concerts. When trying to find an artist that echoes both of those … she fits the bill. Besides, she’s kind of pretty, too.

What’s the upgrade to the theater you’re most proud of? The

stage house was enlarged. The stage prior to Katrina was one of the smaller stages, if not the smallest stage, in all of touring Broadway shows. Some of the larger shows like Lion King and Wicked that were at the Mahalia Jackson Theater could never have played the Saenger. All those shows can now be at the Saenger, which is the most important thing.

go wild … from the moment they walk in the front door. In the arcade, there are more lights than they’ve ever seen before. In the early 1950s, [the arcade had] three chandeliers, and they were sold off when the building was in financial trouble. They’re back today. [The theater was] repainted to the way it was in ’27. It’s more vibrant then what people remember. They’ll walk in and say, “Wow, this was worth

What are the shows you’re most excited about? The Book of

Vi Halloween Festival, New Orleans Healing Center. Information, NewOrleansHealingCenter. org

Oct. 15-27. The Book

Oct. 18-19, 25-26. Boo

of Mormon, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNola.com

at the Zoo, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonInstitute.org/ Boo-Zoo

Oct. 19. Anba Dlo

Mormon – it won so many awards on Broadway. I’ve seen pieces of Ghost and I think it’ll be extremely enjoyable. And Beauty and the Beast. Disney, when they put out DVDs, they put them out for a limited time – same with Beauty and the Beast. It’s the last year it’s going on tour and then it’ll go on the shelf. Who knows when it’ll come back. We’re very fortunate get it in its last year.

the wait.”

What will people who frequented the theater in the past like the renovation? They’re going to

Oct. 18-20. Tremé Culture Fest, various locations in Tremé. Information, TremeCultureFest.com Oct. 19. Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival, Lafayette Square. Information, JazzAndHeritage.org/BluesFest

The Civic and Joy Theaters also on Canal recently announced their calendars for the season.

is on the rise, not that we’re back – we’ve been back for a while. [Those theaters] don’t compete with us; we complement each other. From a patron and citizen – which I am – perspective, it’s fantastic. … [The Saenger’s] always considered ourselves the anchor of Canal Street. Once we come back you’ll see the lights flashing away above you, the beehive of activity. At that point the icon’s back and that’s going to mean a lot for the citizens and the psyche of this city.

I think it’s great. What it shows is New Orleans

Visit SaengerNola.com for more details.

Oct. 26. Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra presents “Psycho: A Symphonic Night at the Movies.” Information, LPOMusic.com

Oct. 30. New Orleans Pelicans season opener versus the Indiana Pacers, New Orleans Arena. Information, nba.com/Pelicans

Oct. 26. O What a Night Gala, Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Information, OgdenMuseum.org

Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival, Oct. 19

New Orleans Pelicans, Oct. 30

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T HE BEA T

PERSONA

Jason Smith BY LAUREN LABORDE

espite their height difference – he ’ s a massive 7 feet tall; she barely reaches his shoulders

even in stilettos – Pelicans forward/center Jason Smith and his wife, Kristy, seem like typical newlyweds. On an August afternoon at their condo in the Cotton Mill lofts, the couple, who got married in July, shares their disappointment with a recently purchased as-seen-on-TV product and Kristy gently chides Jason for getting to-go food from Cochon Butcher and making the condo reek of onions. The condo is now sweetly fragranced by a burning candle. It is a big year for Smith: Besides getting married, this month he starts his fourth season with a team that just underwent a highly publicized rebranding. The team’s longest tenured player talks video games, favorite spots in the Warehouse District and how it’ll feel to step out this season in Pelicans gear. Since you like video games, which ones are your favorites? “Battlefield 3,” “Call of Duty” … I like first-person shooter games. Everyone likes to ask me if I like to play [the NBA video games]. Once they put you in a game and you realize you’re not as good as Lebron or M.J., you say, “Hmm, I’m not going to play this game anymore.” Does Kristy share your love for video games? I’ve tried to get

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At a Glance Age: 27 Profession: Forward/

center, New Orleans Pelicans Born/raised: Kersey, Colo. Resides: The Warehouse District Family: Wife, Kristy; brothers

Aron and Craig; sister Joyce; parents Jack and Roberta Education: Colorado State, Platte Valley High School Favorite movie: Twister Favorite TV show: “The Big Bang Theory” Favorite restaurant: Emeril’s Favorite food: Mexican Favorite band: Linkin Park Favorite hobby: Video games Favorite vacation spot: “I went to Antigua on my honeymoon. That was awesome. That would be up there on the top of my list.” G reg M iles P H O T O G R A P H

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Kristy to play video games with me but she just won’t budge. I’ve tried stuff as easy as racing games – no. I’ve tried “Guitar Hero” – no. I’ve tried so many things. I even tried “Tetris” one time – “no, I’m just not in the mood.”

are so nice and so supportive of the Saints, of the Pelicans, the Zephyrs – everything that goes on in this city, they have a good time with it. It’s unlike any city in the nation.

What are your favorite things about living in the Warehouse District? Easy accessibility to

Yeah, I think it’ll kind of sink in [at the beginning of the season]. We did the jersey unveil, and seeing the new practice facility was like “Hmm, I think our name just changed.” But we’ve had that since the end of the season. We’ve had it for so long, but as soon as we get in the new arena and the new practice facility and have new jerseys and everything, it’s going to be a change for the better I think.

restaurants. It’s close enough to the action of Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest, this and that, to where you’re on the edge of it but you’re not actually in it. It’s easy access to the highway and the new practice facility. [The condo’s] got a great view of the New Orleans skyline. It’s just a nice place. Favorite spots in the neighborhood? We’ve gone to Pêche a

few times – it’s really, really good. Emeril’s is one of our go-to spots. Rock-n-Sake is sushi place we go to all the time. On the other side of the highway we go to Sushi Brothers and Superior Grill. It just depends on if we want to walk to a restaurant or drive. In walking distance, we have our choice of fine dining, our choice of bar food, we have our choice of everything. A lot of athletes are on Twitter. Are you into it? I’m a

newbie to Twitter. I joined last year, kind of mid-season, to see what the buzz was all about. I don’t have any amazing number of followers but it’s cool when you post something – “had a great workout today” – and people who are following you, the kids who do your camps, or the adults who are following you, say “keep up the good work.” It’s good in that respect, but I imagine there’s a lot of negative feedback from Twitter. What do you like most about living in New Orleans? Nice peo-

ple, great food, the weather is awesome – some people say it’s too hot, but wait until you go to a cold environment and you learn to love the warm climate. Being an athlete, your body is a little friendlier to you when you’re in a warmer environment. The people here 24

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Will it feel different wearing Pelicans gear this season?

What do you like most about your position? I like just going

out there and being the energy person – going out there and contributing to the team as best I can and giving whatever I can to help the team win. I trust coach Williams to put us in the right spots. He’s going to give us a good chance to win a lot of games. I know this year is a very important year for all of us, and I think we have the potential to get back to the playoffs. As the longest tenured player of the team, does that make you the role model or wise one? It

kind of makes you nervous as professional athlete because if you’re the last person there, it’s kind of like “Well, who else is going to be on the chopping block?” But at the same time, the coach and the front office know you give it your all, all the time – I know everyone knows that about me personally. I actually enjoy it. It gives me the confidence to know I’m doing something right if I’m still around. I just have to keep doing what I’m doing, work hard, stay positive, no matter what happens. True confession: I love the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups but not the normal ones, the big cups. They’re not really that popular ... but I really like those.

N EWSBEAT

Open Enrollment Begins for Advantage Plans

Mid-October, Oct.15 to be exact, marks the beginning of Medicare’s annual open enrollment period, which lasts until Dec. 7. During this period many New Orleanians who are 65 and older or otherwise have qualifying disabilities will elect to enroll in a “Medicare Advantage Plan” or Medicare Part C. Those who are eligible for Medicare Part A, which covers hospital care and some forms of nursing, and Part B, which covers medically necessary and preventative care, can elect Medicare Part C as a different way of receiving original Medicare benefits. As Deputy Commissioner of Public Affairs for the Louisiana Department of Insurance Ileana Ledet explains, “Some seniors may find value in having Medicare Part C, or Medicare Advantage.” Ledet adds, “These plans are sold by agents representing private insurance companies and are similar to private insurance that self-employed individuals can purchase.” Through an HMO, PPO or PFFS (Private Fee for Service Plan), a Part C enrollee will receive benefits in a manner that mimics traditional insurance coverage, including, in some cases, prescription drug coverage 26

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through Medicare Part D. Ledet states, “Those who may want to consider Medicare Advantage are seniors who want to limit their out-of-pocket health spending or who are seeking more comprehensive coverage under a single insurer for doctor, hospital and drug coverage or other services not covered by original Medicare.” Local plan providers, including Humana, have ramped up advertising efforts to attract Medicare recipients as customers. An important question these companies are raising and answering is why a recipient would elect Part C over original Medicare coverage. “Medicare Advantage plans, such as those offered by Humana, add value with extra benefits and services,” says Mitch Lubitz, media relations leader for the east region and retail segment of Humana. The plans may have no premium or a low premium, lower copays and lower or no deductibles. Lubitz gives examples; “Extra benefits on some plans include dental, vision, a nurse advice line and health and wellness programs – such as a gym membership – at no extra cost,” he says. Persons eligible should carefully consider enrolling in a Medicare Part C plan. The Louisiana Department of Insurance website cautions, “You should not change to a new program until you have carefully analyzed it and determined how you would benefit from it.” – M E G A N S N I D E R

T HE BE A T

BIZ

Healthcare 101

A new era in health insurance dawns in Louisiana B y K a t h y F inn

t is taking effect in bits and pieces , but the end

result of America’s new health care law will be a dramatic change in how United States citizens gain access to care. A key provision of the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act, which requires that nearly all citizens be covered by health insurance, is a nationwide Health Insurance Marketplace where people can shop for suitable coverage, and the market opens for business this month. The Health Insurance Marketplace is actually a website – at HealthCare.gov – where people can examine health plans that meet the federal government’s requirements for “affordable” insurance and use tools that will help them choose and apply for coverage. Businesses will also be able to shop the marketplace for employee health plans. The final list of Louisiana insurers that will participate in the exchange was not yet final at press time, but at least one well-known carrier was expected to be involved. Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana has already played an integral role in helping the state prepare for the marketplace. After Gov. Bobby Jindal flatly refused to create a state-run insurance exchange, thus defaulting to the federally run marketplace, the Blues plan organized community organizations across the state to help inform residents about the era of insurance availability. The Blues last spring led the way in organizing the Louisiana Healthcare Education Coalition to educate people about what to expect under the new law and how the insurance marketplace will work. In addition to familiar names, participating insurers will include a new organization. The Louisiana Health Cooperative is a not-forprofit insurer set up just this year specifically to inject more competition into the Louisiana health insurance industry. The co-op received both its Louisiana license and federal approval to offer its plans in the Health Insurance Marketplace, and spokesman Jim Pittman says LAHC intends to market itself aggressively. “We have done our best to keep our premiums as low as we can across Louisiana, and we’re going to be competitive,” he says. LAHC is one of about 24 nonprofit carriers that have sprouted around the country as a direct result of the Affordable Care Act, one provision of which was the establishment of a loan program to encourage the development of

OCTOBER 2013

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J O S E P H D A N I E L F I E D L E R I llustration

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nonprofit insurers in each of the 50 states. New insurers started up in fewer than half of the states, however, before the federal budget sequester took the remaining loan money off the table. Pittman says that LAHC will fill a niche in the evolving insurance marketplace. “We know that there are 800,000 people in Louisiana who don’t have health insurance and are not eligible for Medicaid or Medicare,” he says. “Some percentage of those people will be interested in our health plan.” While the law’s focus is on health insurance affordability, plans that qualify under the Affordable Care Act are not necessarily offering bare-bones coverage. The law requires, for instance, that all plans in the marketplace include, at a minimum, these benefits: B Ambulatory patient services (outpatient care that doesn’t require hospital admission) B Emergency services B Hospitalization B Maternity and newborn care B Mental health and substance use disorder services, including behavioral counseling and psychotherapy B Prescription drugs B Rehabilitative services and devices (to help people with injuries, disabilities or chronic conditions gain or recover mental and physical skills) B Laboratory services B Preventive and wellness services and chronic disease management B Pediatric services Differences in pricing likely will be based on how much additional coverage each plan offers above these minimum requirements.

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Other pricing variables will include co-pays and deductibles. In general, insurers are expected to offer policies in a series of “graded” levels ranging from catastrophic coverage to bronze, silver, gold and platinum plans. The marketplace will enable prospective buyers to compare plans side-by-side. While no one can force individuals to enroll in a health plan, those who don’t will face an annual tax penalty which begins at $95 and likely will increase in subsequent years. Other motivations to sign up include the fact that the law says insurers cannot deny coverage to anyone or charge more because of a pre-existing condition. In addition, some individuals will be eligible for subsidies that will help them purchase coverage, just as some businesses will qualify for assistance in buying employee health insurance. When all provisions of the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act are implemented, businesses that employ more than 50 people will face an annual penalty of $2,000 for each full-time employee who isn’t covered by an employee health plan. While that coverage requirement takes effect in January, the penalty provision has been delayed until 2015, giving owners of businesses that are likely to be subject to the measure more time to plan how they will comply. Employers subject to the act’s provisions still have responsibility this year for notifying employees about insurance affordability and their potential eligibility for insurance subsidies. Some people may be surprised to learn that they qualify for the assistance. Subsidies will be available for people whose annual income totals as much as 400 percent of the federal poverty level benchmark. That means an individual with an income of about $46,000 a year, or a family of four with income of $94,200 could be eligible.

N EWSBEAT

New Legislation Mandates School Shooting Preparedness Drills House Bill 718, which was signed into law over the summer, amends the revised statute relating to schools’ crisis management and response plans, placing special attention on school shooting preparedness drills. “The Orleans Parish School Board (OPSB) has had a wellwritten crisis plan with annual in-service training and drills for many years,” says Danae Columbus of OPSB. OPSB’s current Emergency Procedures Guide details responses that are specific to incidents such as a stabbing or shooting on campus. Former law already required public schools to develop and implement crisis plans; House Bill 718 prevents schools from relying primarily on such school board policy. Instead, the law requires that the school principal prepare the plan jointly with law enforcement, fire, public safety and emergency preparedness officials, instead of merely seeking input from these entities. The law also provides for a safety drill within the first 30 days of each school year and submission of a written report on the drill to the local superintendent, defined as the school’s CEO, who may issue comments on the report. Charter schools are not exempt from the requirements, and the 32

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law requires The State Board of Elementary and Secondary Education, in consultation with the Nonpublic School Commission, to adopt rules requiring nonpublic schools to address school safety, including school shootings and any other emergency situation. Schools such as Lusher Charter School have already implemented improvements for this school year, including door locking, an electronic security system and text messaging communication. “All staff members attended a training on the revised safety plan at the beginning of the school year. The school will be conducting simulated lockdown drills during the year as well,” states Sheila Nelson, principal of Lusher’s kindergarten through fifth grade programs. Even with schools implementing their own crisis preparation improvements, OPSB continues to support the effort. OPSB Security Chief BJ Bilbo scheduled an in-service training for principals and staff and will also meeting with the NOPD, EMS and NOFD. “Students will also participate in this process through practice drills which will better educate them on the codes and procedures to follow,” Columbus explains. – M E G A N S N I D E R

T HE BEA T

EDUCATION

Anthony Amato Redux Finding a new perspective at International High School of New Orleans

B Y D A W N R U TH e w O r l e ans M aga z i n e editors selected A nthony

Amato, the last superintendent of New Orleans’ pre-Katrina school system, a Person To Watch in 2003 – before Hurricane Katrina changed everything. In the same year (January ’03), then-Mayor Nagin also snared a win in the category of favorite politician in a readers’ poll. When Amato heard that he’d overshadowed the mayor, he feared the worst. “Here’s my death knell,” he recalls thinking at the time. “It was a great honor,” he says, “but I wanted to be under the radar. The more you’re up there, the bigger target you are.” Amato spent more than two years trying to rectify years of poor management and financial waste. He dealt with state auditors, an FBI probe, an unhappy governor and a host of state officials who threatened to seize New Orleans schools. In the 2004 article about Amato, New Orleans Magazine Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde wrote, “school board politics can be a viper’s nest;” an accurate description of the hostility that engulfed the board that hired him. Dealing with the feds and bankruptcy troubled Amato less than the corruption he discovered in the classroom. One day he learned from a student that a teacher had offered to give him an A for $500. “My head blew, my heart blew apart. Tears came to my eyes,” he says. “That was 34

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the level of corruption that was rampant at the time.” Not long after that, a newly elected school board, under fire for operating academically failing schools, asked him to leave. “It wasn’t personal,” says Phyllis Landrieu who had just been elected to the board. “It was the whole situation. We needed to reorganize internally as well.” Amato, a mild-mannered man who describes his leadership style as “collaborative,” took his ouster in stride. “When you make changes, you step on people’s feet,” he says of the months leading up to his departure. “You just accept it.” He left New Orleans a few weeks before Katrina struck in 2005 and went on to supervise two other troubled districts, but now he’s back. In ’10, he became head of school for the International High School of New Orleans, a charter now located in the Central Business District. GREG MILES PHOTOGRAPH

As the son of a Puerto Rican immigrant and native Spanish speaker, he was an obvious choice to run a school with the word “international” in its name, but some might view his present position as several steps down the career ladder. He went from taking charge of systems of between 25,000 and 63,000 students to supervising 167 at the time of his appointment. Nonetheless, he says he’s living the happiest years of his educational journey. As the head of a semi-autonomous charter school governed by a non-elected school board, political distractions are nonexistent. He is also working with a go-getting staff that speaks 13 different languages. The most fulfilling change of all, he says, is dealing face-to-face with students again. It has been more than 40 years since he started his career as a bilingual teacher of math and science in Bronx, New York, and over 25 years since he has been principal of a school. He has served as superintendent of five school districts since 1987. He and his family moved from New York to Hartford, Conn., and then to New Orleans, then to Kansas City and then Stockton, Calif. After Stockton, he was planning to take a position in Texas when his wife and seven children informed him that they wanted to return to New Orleans. “They outvoted me, totally, even the dog outvoted me,” Amato says. “He raised his paw. I don’t know how they did that.” Since his arrival at the International High School, the student population has more than tripled – from 167 to 500 – with students coming from 23 different countries. It also moved from Uptown to a downtown historic art deco-styled building close to the National World War II museum, the Contemporary Arts Center and Lafayette Park, where physical education classes are held. Students have the opportunity to visit some of the city’s finest art exhibits, and some are trained docents at the Ogden Museum. As part of the school’s mission to create “global citizens,” it offers language immersion classes in Spanish and French, the rigorous International Baccalaureate degree and instruction in Arabic and Mandarin Chinese. One of the school’s students, Sarauniya Zulu, won third place in the National China Bridge competition and is scheduled to compete in Beijing this fall. Tests scores are also on the rise. This year the proficiency rate for all tested subjects increased from 42 to 56 percent, a 14 percent change. Education Now, an online informational source for education, listed it as one of the most improved schools in the area. The school also shares classrooms with Bard College, a northeastern liberal arts college that provides free college instruction to selected New Orleans high school students. “I was very happy to host them here,” Amato says. “Bard is the classiest classical college in America. It’s a very significant symbol for us.” Even though Amato has led some of the most challenging urban districts in America, starting with a Manhattan district of 27,000 students, the International High School is his first charter school experience and it has changed his perspective about the best way to run schools. Because charter schools are independent public schools, authority and accountability rest with the school leader, not centralized office staff that rarely visits schools. As a charter leader, Amato says he can allocate the school budget according to its specific needs, not according to a packaged plan dictated from above. “I personally do a lot of the work,” he says. “I put the firepower in the classroom.” If he ever takes a district superintendent’s role again, he says he would use the charter model. “My eyes have been opened to the future.” myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

T HE BE A T

HEALTH

A Revelation About Prostate Cancer Living well often means avoiding surgery and radiation

B Y B R O B S O N L U T Z , M.D. nce upon a time , R obinson C rusoe

had a prostate biopsy just before setting sail from England to the New World. In his rush, he missed an appointment with his Harley Street urologist to go over biopsy results. The worried urologist filled a couple hundred sealed bottles with the message “Robinson Crusoe has prostate cancer” and cast them out to sea.

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On cannibal watch one morning, Friday found one of the bottles that had washed ashore. He couldn’t read the message, but it looked important so he ran with the note to Crusoe, who read the one sentence message aloud. Silence followed. “Robinson Crusoe has prostate cancer,” squawked Poll the Parrot breaking the silence. Maybe the cancer was the reason he was getting up a couple of times every night to urinate. The parrot’s constant reminders of “Robinson Crusoe has prostate cancer” fueled his anxiety level. Years passed and nothing happened. Crusoe was still waking up and tripping over cats and goats a couple times a night. Polly finally shut up after 10 years or so. Crusoe began to wonder if the message had been a hoax. For many men today a “positive prostate biopsy” isn’t a hoax, but it’s a scary message often best left in an unopened bottle. The shipwrecked Crusoe had less to worry about 200 years ago than say a 70-year-old man today with a positive prostate biopsy who lives in Metairie Club Gardens. Robinson Crusoe didn’t have to fret about options often associated with more complications than the cancer itself – repeat biopsies, surgery and radiation treatments. Screening for any disease only makes sense when early detection and treatment leads to a better outcome measured by quality of life and quantity of life – preferably both. Most men with cancer cells in their prostate end up dying of unrelated causes. In my 30 plus years of practice, dozens of my patients have been diagnosed with prostate cancer. Yet, I can recall only three who developed advanced prostate cancer, and two of those had had prior surgeries removing their entire prostates. No doubt urologists and oncologists see more patients with serious prostate cancers. Dr. Oliver Sartor at Tulane Medical Center is one of those specialists. He has published more than 150 articles and viewpoints related to prostate cancer. He is the only medical oncologist in Louisiana I know whose entire practice is devoted to treatment of prostate cancer. “Men with low risk prostate cancers rarely benefit from treatment. Surveillance rather than surgery or radiation therapy has become the best option for most men diagnosed with prostate cancer today,” says Sartor. “This is especially true for those who had prostate biopsies just because of an elevated PSA (prostate-specific antigen). Surveillance programs are beginning to curb adverse effects from unneeded treatments.” Serial PSA determinations, specialized imaging studies, and even repeat prostate biopsies define the backbone of aggressive surveillance, a strategy recommended by Sartor only for younger men likely to benefit down the line from more definitive treatment. “Older men need more gentle surveillance. Chronological age is just a surrogate of life expectancy. But 50-year-olds and 75-year-olds are just

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different patients,” says Sartor, who just follows the PSA in some patients and tells others to recheck in a year unless some problem develops. Back to Crusoe and his nocturnal awakenings on the Island of Despair: Men over the half-century mark often find themselves getting up two or three times a night to urinate. If this is your problem, you have an edge over Crusoe. Today there are effective drugs to help control urine storage and voiding problems. Several prescription drugs relax the smooth muscle fibers to allow more complete bladder emptying. These drugs can also cause blood pressure drops and fainting that can be a problem, especially for persons with normally low blood pressures. I know from experience. A few years ago I slumped over in my chair at Galatoire’s Restaurant a couple of days after I started taking one of these drugs. I woke up with a city EMS team at the table asking me my name. I answered Melvin Rodrigue. They left me and my startled guests with “a goodbye Dr. Lutz” and a twinkle in their eye. I knew that twinkle. I have used that twinkle. It is the sort of twinkle medical personnel use to communicate to each other that maybe something related to alcohol was at play. The FDA approved Proscar in 1992. Six months of daily Proscar can shrink an enlarged prostate by 20 percent, and that 20 percent can make a real difference in decreasing urinary outflow problems. Proscar also decreases the risk of prostate cancer. In a just updated cancer preventive study started 18 years ago, Proscar reduced the risk of the low-grade cancers that just need watching by 43 percent. The persons who took Proscar were a tad more likely to develop higher-grade and more problematic tumors over the 18-year period than the folks who took the placebo, but the survival rates were the same for both groups. But there’s no free lunch. Proscar has its own set of potential adverse effects including decreased ejaculatory volume, impotence, and erectile dysfunction. It wouldn’t be a drug a former governor in his 80s looking to impregnate a young wife would want to take.

The Story of Sam Craig

“My PSA was high so I saw a urologist. I forget the actual value. I know it was over five but less than 10, so I had a prostate biopsy,” says a local man about town, who asked me to call him Sam Craig. “I returned the next week for the results and left the office with a diagnosis of prostate cancer. He told me that surgical removal of my prostate would cure the cancer for sure, but then he went over the complications. I considered myself a very active 75-year-old, so the prospect of impotency bothered me, if you know what I mean.” He continues, “The urologist sent me to a radiation oncologist. She really gave me a hard sell on injecting my prostate with radioactive seeds. She downplayed any side effects, but I saw a friend in her waiting room who told me his story. Not only was he now impotent, he had to wear Depends. I called my brother who lives out of town. He suggested that I get another opinion and that’s when I heard about an option other than surgery or radiation – simply see what happens if I do nothing.” “That was three years ago,” Craig says. “I am now a healthy 78-year-old and still going strong in that department – you know what I mean. I get up a couple of times a night to urinate. But most old men my age do that. Otherwise, nothing is bothering me in that department, and I’m not bothering it.” Hopefully fewer men will face Craig’s dilemma. Routine PSA testing for men over a certain age has now gone the way of 78 records and eight-track tape decks. The United States Preventative Services Task Force is on record against routine PSA screening for men, stating that potential harms outweigh the benefits. 38

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HEALTHBEAT In August the Louisiana Hospital Association Trust Funds awarded a 2013 Safety Star Award to Slidell Memorial Hospital (SMH). Three Louisiana hospitals earned the award, but SMH

is the only hospital in the Greater New Orleans area to receive the distinction. The Trust Fund created the award to recognize facilities that have successfully implemented ideas or processes that have improved patient safety and led to the reduction of general or professional liability exposures. After implementing a prevention plan, SMH reduced the patient fall rate in its Inpatient Rehabilitation Unit by 84 percent over a 12-month period – which is below the national average.

Recently the Health Resources and Services Administration awarded the LSU Health Sciences Center New Orleans School of Dentistry a $1.8 million grant over five years to support its HIV/AIDS care and education program. The program, under the direction of

Robert Barsley, educates dental and dental hygiene students about caring for patients with HIV/AIDS, provides dental services to this patient population and monitors quality of care. The school provides clinical care for HIV positive patients at the Community HealthWorx Clinic in Alexandria, La., as well as at the LSU HIV Outpatient Clinic in New Orleans, along with dental education.

Ochsner Health System is now offering seasonal flu vaccinations for patients and the public at “flu shot fairs” at its hospitals and health centers. Because the flu vaccine is the best method of preventing the flu, it’s recommended that everyone

over six months of age receive the vaccine. Flu season can begin as early as October and typically peaks in January and February. Because the vaccine takes approximately two weeks to protect against the flu, it’s best to get the vaccine as soon as possible. Visit Ochsner.org/FluShots for the flu shot fair schedule and other information about flu shots. – LAUREN LABORDE

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T HE BE A T

CRIME FIGHTING

Gun Locks, Beignets and the Dalai Lama BY ALLEN JOHNSON JR.

“The realization that another person wishes to harm and hurt you cannot undermine genuine compassion.” – His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet

he D alai L ama , spiritual leader of T ibet since

the age of 15 and the world’s most recognized champion of non-violence, spent his first-ever visit to New Orleans in a security bubble. Draped in red and gold robes, the elderly, bespectacled Buddhist monk smiled and waved – gently – to anyone and everyone inside the New Orleans Convention Center. Stoic security agents from the U.S. State Department ushered him into a windowless meeting room for a press conference. The members of the news media already inside were screened weeks in advance, then searched by security agents with hand-held metal detectors and bomb-sniffing dogs “to ensure His Holiness’ safety,” according to a local spokesman. Invited by the Tulane School of Social Work to address graduating seniors on peace, resilience and compassion, the exiled spiritual leader of Tibet – a recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize – can also be a sharp critic of Chinese communist rule over his native country north of the mountainous Himalayas. He assumed the leadership of Tibet as a teenager in 1950, after a brutal invasion by neighboring China the same year, then fled into exile as Tibet’s spiritual leader in ’59. He

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has advocated freedom for Tibet from a compound in northern India since then. At today’s press conference, there are no questions for His Holiness about the scores of Tibetan monks who have burned themselves alive since last November to protest Chinese rule. No one asks about assassination plots, such as the Dalai Lama’s own admittedly unconfirmed report that Chinese agents were planning to poison him. Five days after the Mother’s Day parade shooting left 20 people injured in New Orleans, the search for solace and answers is distinctively local. A reporter asks His Holiness for his own definition of leadership and how people can recognize true leadership “in times of great public fear?” After a pause for translation help from an interpreter, the Dalai Lama turned suddenly playful and responds with a why-ask-me shrug: “I don’t know,” he chuckles. A P / G erald H erbert P H O T O G R A P H

The monk then turned serious, addressing a divisive American topic: gun control. “The one thing I tell the people: the real ‘gun control’ starts from here,” the Dalai Lama says, pointing toward his heart. “We must educate. Human beings’ basic condition is moral compassion.” As public figures often do during media interviews, the Dalai Lama later returned to the leadership question – adding that his job as a leader is to keep people “calm” so they can make reasonable decisions. The press conference ended. The Dalai Lama stood and waved good-bye. Adhering to unspecified “security reasons,” the reporters remained in the meeting room, giving His Holiness a fiveminute head start after the news conference ended. Three months later, his office in India bans all “outside electronic gadgets, including FM-radios,” from temple prayers, citing new security measures. “During a dangerous period, when there’s a dramatic change, then there’s no scope to pretend that everything is fine,” the Dalai Lama once wrote. “You must accept that bad is bad.” Back in New Orleans, police say the number of homicides has dropped by 27 percent. The crime-weary public remains guardedly optimistic as attempts to reform the New Orleans Police Department and the jail plod forward. City coffers are dry and services are strained. Soon, the public will elect, or re-elect, a mayor and sheriff, among other city leaders. Not all leaders are elected, as evidenced by the citywide enthusiasm for the Dalai Lama. Colorful Tibetan prayer flags displayed during his historic visit still hang from fences, balconies and windows. Like Mardi Gras beads. B

One Saturday morning in July, several hundred people lined up in sweltering heat on Decatur Street, across from Jackson Square. For a moment, it appeared the combined public relations forces of the firearms industry, the NOPD and the mayor’s office had struck a chord with a promotional giveaway of 3,000 gun safety locks “to help prevent firearm accidents, theft and misuse.” Closer inspection reveals the long line is for coffee and beignets at Café Du Monde and only starts near the gun safety education booth manned by the National Sports Shooting Foundation. Blue-uniformed crime prevention officers from the NOPD show passerby how the cable locks to secure weapons. Amanda Furrer, an Olympic shooting competitor from Spokane, Wash., advocates the sport as a “family activity.” The industry-backed group promotes firearm safety and storage as “common ground” for both sides of the contentious national debate over gun control – which the NSSF says it wants to avoid. “Let’s just focus what we agree on,” says NSSF executive director Steve Sanetti. He says that ProjectChildSafe.org addresses two problems: criminals stealing guns from law-abiding gun owners and accidental shootings. “It’s something gun-owners can do now,” he says. Sanetti says NSSF’s national campaign encounters two different gun cultures. In rural areas, he says, many people grow up using guns for hunting and target practice. NSSF must assure rural residents the gunlocks aren’t part of a gun-control effort. “In the city, the focus is lock up the guns; people are doing irresponsible things.” It costs $5 to make each gun lock, which retails for $10 to $12, Sanetti says. The group says it distributed 150 of the 3,000 free safety kits in the French Quarter. The rest went to the NOPD Crime Prevention office for distribution (658-5595). No elected officials showed up at the gun safety booth, despite the impressive crowds lined up for a table at the nearby Café Du Monde. The gun safety exhibitors joined the crowd after their event. “As expected, the beignets were fantastic,” says NSSF spokesman LeRoy Coleman. myneworleans.com

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N EWSBEAT

World Trade Center Plans May Endanger Ferry Service When Louisiana Landmarks Society (LLS) announced the 2013 “New Orleans’ Nine Most Endangered Sites” in late June, it named the World Trade Center (WTC) No. 1 on the list. Also included among the LLS’s nine was the loss of the transportation route provided by Canal Street Ferry Service. In August, the city’s selection committee chose Gatehouse Capital Corp.’s proposal above two other submissions for modification of the New Orleans WTC site. According to a report by The Bureau of Governmental Research (BGR), which reviewed all three candidate’s submissions, Gatehouse proposed to maintain and renovate the WTC tower, unlike another bid, which called for its demolition. The renovation proposal includes a 245room W Hotel as well as 280 luxury residential apartments, along with a revolving lounge and restaurant on the 33rd floor and a John Besh restaurant on the first floor, according to BGR. Few certainties exist as of press time, especially with respect to the off-site plans. According to Gatehouse’s response to questions posed by the city’s selection committee, Gatehouse’s proposal for off-site plans includes redevelopment of the Canal Street ferry terminal to pedestrian-only use through public investment. Gatehouse believes that the few cars that cur42

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rently use the ferry can instead use the Crescent City Connection to get to Algiers. By eliminating car traffic, Gatehouse says it can “successfully create a new, coherent, unified and attractive pedestrian and tourist connection/experience between Spanish Plaza, the Aquarium, Canal Street and other surrounding areas.” Though Gatehouse’s plans preserve the tower, its plans to eliminate car traffic may not sit well with historic interest groups, such as LLS. Another aspect of interest to developers, the city and its residents is the availability of historic tax credits that would ultimately fund renovations. According to BGR, the Gatehouse Proposal budget relies on $75.4 million of equity from federal and state historic tax credits, wherein “Tax credit equity is provided by private investors, but the cost is ultimately borne by the public.” However, the WTC doesn’t currently meet criteria to apply for Federal Historic Rehabilitation Tax Credit or State Commercial Tax Credit, though a draft National Register nomination to individually list the building has been submitted to the Office of Cultural Development. As Matthew Day, the Office’s outreach and special projects manager, explains, “Should the nomination be approved by the state National Register Review Committee and the National Park Service, it will be eligible for the Federal Historic Rehabilitation Tax Credit and the State Commercial Tax Credit.” – MEGAN SNIDER

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What to Do to Get in the Halloween Spirit PAGE 44

New Orleans loves a good parade, even one with the Walking Dead.

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T H E S C O O P

What to Do to Get in the Halloween Spirit by HALEY ADAMS

f co u rse N ew O rleans is famo u s for

Mardi Gras, but Halloween is another holiday we do well. With parades, haunted houses and fun for the little ones, there are always plenty of ways to get spooked in October. Here are a few events we recommend.

(For even more Halloween events, see Chronicles, pg. 60.)

HAUNTED HOUSES House of Shock Haunted House and Festival. For those who like to be scared, the House of Shock Haunted House and Festival is a popular Halloween attraction. Entrance to the haunted house costs $25 or $50 for VIP admission (VIP admission lets you skip the line). If you’re not a haunted house fan, you can still hang out in the festival area, which includes live music and “circusstyle” entertainment, such as fire breathers. Festival admission is free, but keep in mind the festival atmosphere may be too scary for little kids. One special event happening at House of Shock this year will be the wedding of Megan Adair and Chris Guillot of Bourg, La. The couple had their first date at House of Shock, so it’s fitting that they will be married there on Halloween night. While the couple’s families will be in attendance, the wedding is open to the public and there will be a pyrotechnic display after the “I do’s.” Ordained minister Rev. B. Dangerous will marry the couple. House of Shock is open Fridays and Saturdays in October. 44

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Closer to Halloween it is open Fri., Oct. 25, through Sun., Oct. 27, and Wed., Oct. 30, through Fri., Nov. 1. House of Shock is located at 319 Butterworth St. in Jefferson, La. More details: HouseOfShock.com

The Mortuary Haunted House An old mansion and funeral home built in 1872, the Haunted Mortuary bills itself as “a haunted house in a real haunted house.” Around Halloween the Mid-City mansion transforms into a top-rate haunted house. Each year has a different theme and this year’s is the “Zombie Outbreak,” where zombies have taken over New Orleans. Tickets cost $25 for general admission or $35 for “Skip the Line” access. If you plan to visit The Mortuary more than once this season, try the Frequent Fear Season Pass for $88, which gets you unlimited visits during Halloween season. If you want a free VIP pass, you can donate blood at The Blood Center, which parks outside The Mortuary every night the haunted house is open. The Mortuary Haunted House is open Thursday through Sunday for the first three weekends in October, and from Oct. 22 through Oct. 31. On Thursday nights in October (except for Oct. 31), say “I’m Patient Zero” when purchasing your ticket and you’ll receive a $5 discount. The box office opens at 7 p.m. The Mortuary Haunted House is located at 4800 Canal St. and is accessible via streetcar. More Details: TheMortuary.net CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH

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For New Orleans kids, there are always lots of Halloween activities besides the classic door-to-door trick-or-treating.

For Halloween, there’s the Krewe of Boo Parade, which rolls between 6 p.m. and 6:30 p.m., Sat., Oct. 26, at the corner of Elysian Fields Avenue and Decatur Street. The parade ends at Mardi Gras World with an after party, the Krewe of Boo Spook Fest, which lasts until 2 a.m. For live entertainment, local group Flow Tribe will open for the Brooklyn-based band Pimps of Joytime. Party admission is free for Krewe of Boo members, but non-members are also invited. Tickets to the party cost $25 in advance and $35 at the door. More Details: KreweOfBoo.com

Molly’s at the Market Parade. Another annual parade to look for is Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade, which will roll around 6:30 p.m., Thurs., Oct. 31, outside Molly’s At The Market, which is located at 1107 Decatur St. More details were not available at press time. Check Molly’s at the Market on Facebook for the latest information, or visit the bar’s website.

FOR THE KIDS

Ghosts in the Oaks. If your Halloween is focused around your kids or grandkids, Ghosts in the Oaks is a good choice for the More Details: MollysAtTheMarket.net little ones. Happening this year on Fri., Oct. 18, and Sat., Oct. 19, the event includes trick-or-treating, crafts, amusement park rides Ghostly Galavant Weekend. The 27th annual Ghostly Galavant and more kid-centric activities in City Park’s Carousel Gardens Fundraiser raises money for the Friends of the Cabildo and offers Amusement Park and Storyland. Halloween fans of all ages many chances for a fun weekend. Ghosts in the Oaks is a benefit for the Carousel Gardens Get a babysitter for the Ghostly Amusement Park and Storyland. Galavant Costume Party, happenTickets cost $20 for early admising at 7:30 p.m., Fri., Oct. 25, at the sion and $15 for general admission. As a New Orleanian, you probably have a closet Cabildo, located at 701 Chartres St. Friends of City Park members receive full of costumes, but if you’re looking to mix it up for The costume party will feature food a discount. Early admission ticketHalloween this year, these places are good spots to rent from local restaurants, along with holders can come in at 6 p.m. and an ensemble, have one made or buy a hard-to-find piece. beer and wine. Tickets cost $35 in general admission ticket-holders can Southern Costume Company. You can rent a costume advance and $45 at the door. enter at 7 p.m. here or have one custom made. Prices vary by item. It’s On Sat., Oct 26, or Sun., Oct. 27, More Details: FriendsOfCityPark.com a popular stop for members of the movie industry, as bring the kids to the Cabildo for the shop’s costumes have been featured in movies such a spooky tour through the French Boo at the Zoo. For another night as The Butler, 21 Jump Street and more. 951 Lafayette Quarter. Tours happen every 30 that’s fun for the kids, the Audubon St., 523-4333, SCCNola.com minutes between 10 a.m. and 3 Zoo hosts Boo at the Zoo for two New Orleans Party and Costume. This p.m. Tickets cost $20 for adults, weekends in October. Bring your costume shop has a variety of costumes $10 for students and kids are free. youngsters to Audubon for trick-orto purchase, as well as wigs, makeup Proceeds from the gala and the treating, games, haunted houses and and party supplies. 705 Camp tours will benefit the Friends of the more kid-friendly activities. St., 525-4744, Facebook.com/ Cabildo, which funds the Louisiana Boo at the Zoo is happening from NolaCostume State Museum. 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. Fri., Oct. 18, and Funky Monkey. The general vibe More Details: FriendsOfTheCabildo.org Sat., Oct. 19, as well as Fri., Oct. 25, in Funky Monkey makes this store fun and Sat., Oct. 26, at the Audubon and welcoming, and it’s not too big so Psycho with the Louisiana Zoo, located at 6500 Magazine St. you can avoid the feeling of being overPhilharmonic Orchestra. Both horror Kids from a few months to 12 years whelmed which sometimes comes with thrift movie fans and music lovers will old are welcome to attend. Tickets shopping. 3127 Magazine St., 899-5587, enjoy the Louisiana Philharmonic cost $17 per person, but kids younger Facebook.com/FunkyMonkeyNewOrleans Orchestra’s presentation of “Psycho: than one year old get in free. Buffalo Exchange. Buffalo Exchange is A Symphonic Night at the Movies.” Proceeds from the event will benefit part of a chain of consignment stores, but it The concert will feature music the zoo and Children’s Hospital. has a local feel inside. The shop is big, so you’re sure to from Alfred Hitchcock’s classic More Details: AudubonInstitute.org/ find something to add to your costume. 3312 Magazine film Psycho. The event is happenBoo-Zoo St., 891-7443, BuffaloExchange.com ing at 7:30 p.m., Sat., Oct. 26, at the Miss Claudia’s Vintage Clothing & Costumes. Yet Mahalia Jackson Theater, located MORE HALLOWEEN FUN another popular Magazine Street shop, Miss Claudia’s at 1419 Basin St. Tickets range from Krewe of Boo Parade. Just like is full of costumes from multiple time periods. 4204 $20 to $99. every other holiday in New Orleans, Magazine St., 897-6310, MissClaudias.com More Details: LPOMusic.com there has to be a good parade.

Where To Find a New Costume

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MUSIC

Albert Murray: Performance in Language

BY J A S O N B E R R Y began writing abo u t m u sic for alternative weeklies

in the 1970s. Having come of age in the ’60s dancing to rhythm and blues by Irma Thomas, Tommy Ridgley, Art and Aaron Neville, et alia, I found myself a decade later in love with the music all over again and wondering who they were. (Get a tape recorder, go ask.) But the music posed a challenge. How to convey those marvelous sounds in prose; how the melodies and rhythmic innovations color an evening, the change in a room or parade when bodies moving hit the groove? Writing about politics paid better, but enduring the speeches and specimens of mendacity, many names worth forgetting, was a slog. The musicians had stories about the sounds that sent me digging deeper, trying to grasp a collective story. I lived in the Irish Channel, two upper floors in succession, rent at $75 and $150 respectively, tall ceilings, ample room. I wrote at night and toward 3 a.m., put on music to unwind. One summer, alternating between Louis Armstrong’s Hot 5 records and Beethoven’s Symphonies, I discovered a tender symmetry between “Strutting with Some Barbecue” and “Ode to Joy.” Among the books I read to get grounded: Blues People by LeRoi Jones, Hear Me Talking to Ya the great oral history by Hentoff and Shapiro, Satchmo: My Life in New Orleans and John Broven’s seminal book on R&B, Walking to New Orleans. I read many others; but the sky opened in 1976 when Albert Murray published Stomping the Blues. I had never read such a swinging performance in language, nor one of such ranging cultural wisdom. With the careful orchestration of vintage photographs from the swing era, Murray’s book came as close as anything on paper to sounding like music. He was focused on the bridge between dancers in blues clubs and dancers in the aisles of churches. “Downhome church music,” he wrote, “is not of its nature fundamentally less dance-beat-oriented, it simply inspires a different mode of dance, a sacred or holy as opposed to a secular or profane movement, a difference which is sometimes a matter of very delicate nuance. Indeed, sometimes only the initiated can make the distinctions. But churchfolks are always very much aware of them, and so are blues musicians for the most part.” Murray also wrote: “In the old days to play church

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Albert Murray, 1995

WALTER BECKHAM PHOTOGRAPH

COOKBOOK Chef John Besh has taught the people of New Orleans a lot about cooking and with his new cookbook Cooking from the Heart: My Favorite Lessons Learned Along the Way, he’s sharing recipes and giving shout outs to the people who helped him become the chef he is today. While the number of recipes clearly make this book a cookbook, Cooking from the Heart also reads like a memoir, as it includes stories from his time spent in Germany and France and includes photos from his younger days.

Children’s What the Sleepy Animals Do at the Audubon Zoo is an adorable book for little New Orleanians, especially those who love to go to the Audubon Zoo. Written by local couple Grace Millsaps and Ryan Murphy, the book tells the story of what the zoo animals do when everyone else has gone home. Kids will love the bright illustrations by John Clark IV and Alyson Kilday.

MEMOIR Wendy Rodrigue shares stories from her life in the art world as the wife of George Rodrigue in the book The Other Side of the Painting. Based on her blog Musings of an Artist’s Wife (which can be found at WendyRodrigue.com), the book is a collection of essays by Wendy, chronicling her “art-infused relationship” with George, plus other life experiences. (For more about George and Wendy Rodrigue, read the related feature on pg. 96.)

MUSIC Say That To Say This, the latest album from Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews and his band Orleans Avenue, appeals to fans of rock, jazz, R&B, funk or all of the above. Say That To Say This, which was co-produced with R&B singer Raphael Saadiq, is sure to garner Trombone Shorty even more fans around the world, as he’s currently touring across the U.S. and Europe. – H ale y A D A M S

Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Haley Adams, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. myneworleans.com

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music as dance music used to be condemned as sacrilege by church elders and dance-hall patrons alike. There were some exceptions, of course, and some very notable ones at that. There were the now classic renditions of ‘The Saints’ and ‘Bye and Bye,’ for example, by none other than Louis Armstrong,” he continued, calling him “a product of the highly unconventional religious attitude that the existential bodaciousness of New Orleans postcemetery music expresses.” Murray had been a classmate of Ralph Ellison at Tuskegee Institute in the 1930s, and after years in the Air Force, settled in Harlem. As a writer he started late. He was 55 when he published a ’71 literary travelogue, South to a Very Old Place, which included a visit with Walker Percy. I followed the evolution of Murray’s prose voice in the 1974 novel, Train Whistle Guitar (which won the Lillian Smith Award for Southern Fiction). It is the tale of an Alabama childhood in a mythical setting and the influence of a revered bluesmen. The dialogue includes a riff between two boys, like this: “Say now hey now Mister Luzana Cholly. Mister Luzana Cholly one time ... Mister Luzana Cholly all night long. Yeah me, ain’t nobody else but ... Got the world in a jug. And the stopper in your hand. Y’all tell em, ’cause I ain’t got the heart. A man among men. And Lord God among women!” Then came Stomping the Blues. The language with its unerring musicality emboldened me to pitch The Nation for an essay on his work, which ran in January 1977, the first consideration of his entire work to date if I’m not mistaken. Many others weighed in as his line

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of books extended. We began corresponding, and did an interview for a small literary journal (reprinted as introduction to his ’97 collection, Blue Devils of Nada.) He had compared the bluesman to the bullfighter in another book, The Hero and the Blues, reflecting on Hemingway. “You say that his heroes are blues heroes,” I said. “In what stylistic sense, if any, has he influenced you?” “His cadence is that of process and of ritual reenactment,” said Murray. “As casual as it seems, his style achieves its realistic effect through incantation.” In 1978, I spent a grand afternoon drinking bourbon in his Harlem apartment amid paintings by his friend Romaire Bearden and a big library. Murray’s style drew inspiration from Flaubert, Joyce and Mann. He disdained racial separatism; he saw America as an assimilating society, jazz a metaphor of democracy. He took his share of criticism but the arc of culture bent toward Murray. A mentor to Wynton Marsalis in the 1980s, he was a major figure in Ken Burns’s Jazz. In the winter of his life he was elected to the American Academy of Arts and Letters and profiled in The New Yorker. In August he died at 97. His obituary began on the front page of the New York Times. I regret the failure to keep those letters going; but I got pulled into some heavy investigative reporting. We had a nice reunion years later when he spoke at the Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival. As I realize how much I learned from what Albert Murray wrote, and the way he wrote, that day in New York comes back, the subway from Harlem down to the Village, roaming the Strand Bookstore, talking about jazz and books, and in the last blue touch of twilight, watching him saunter off with an elegant bounce to his step, serenely confident about what he had to say. To read more of Berry’s articles, visit JasonBerryAuthor.com.

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C A S T O F CH ARAC TERS Jesuit defender Ray Tackaberry tackles Holy Cross ball carrier Glenn Smith.

Jays and Tigers 50 years ago they battled for a state title BY G E O R G E G U R T N E R

heir gait may be a little slower these days .

Most are grandfathers. Their hair is thinner and whiter, but there’s nothing wrong with their memories; the memories stored away by these guys who were there slugging it out in the frozen trenches 50 years ago on a frigid December Tuesday night in 1963 when Holy Cross defeated Jesuit 14-6 to win the Louisiana State high school football championship before some 27,000 of their followers at Tulane Stadium. “Fifty years ago,” says Barry Wilson, the All-State center for Holy Cross who went on to star for LSU. “Fifty years ago.” He repeats the words as though by merely saying them will bring that long ago game back into a present day reality. “That was a game for the ages. One that most people who were involved with won’t forget.” Across town, Keefe Hecker sits in his comfortable living room, thinking about retirement after 37 years of teaching and coaching Isidore Newman School to two state track championships. But it’s October and Hecker’s mind, like Wilson’s, can’t stray far from his glory days as a defensive halfback and sometime wingback for the Jesuit Blue Jays in “THE” game. “I’d be lying if I said (losing the state title to Holy Cross) didn’t still gnaw at me after all these years,” Hecker says. “We played a good game … but we lost! Still, that was a great time and the memories are still there.” To be sure, through the glory of victory and the lingering pain of defeat, the

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annual Holy Cross-Jesuit game has been played out each autumn, without interruption, since 1922 and is recognized as one of the oldest continuing high school rivalries in the country. Several years ago, one organization, “Great American Rivalries” sponsored by the U.S. Marine Corps, added the Holy Cross-Jesuit game to its list of 80 or so ongoing American prep classics. That organization presents $500 scholarships each to a Jesuit and Holy Cross player in the contest each year. “Regardless of which school you went to,” says one Jesuit alumni. “This game has long been a yearly tradition in New Orleans. It’s big a part of the city’s history as anything you can think of … just below jazz and Mardi Gras.” Sometimes that game, whether both teams were powerhouses or also-rans during a particular season, has grown to reach mythical proportions, the kind associated with some college frenzies: parades, tailgating, newspaper advertising, highpowered speakers at pep rallies, pre- and post-game parties … The marketing of this game and its attenP hotograph co u rtesy J es u it H igh S chool

dant celebration is culled together and polished at a half-dozen or so meetings of representatives of both schools throughout the year. All of which would do a Madison Avenue advertising and public relations firm proud. There are “almost generic” T-shirts available for students; except, that is, one set of shirts ballyhoos the “Jesuit-Holy Cross” classic while another set promotes the “Holy Cross-Jesuit” game. And then there’s the chin up contest and the travelling “golden football” trophy that’s taken home and held for a year by the winning team. Madison Avenue? Forget it! This is circus maximus caliber hype. “It just seems to get bigger every year,” says Dave Moreau, the athletic director of Jesuit. The game is first, of course, and that’s what the coaches focus on. But they also realize that this game goes way beyond just what happens on the field. It is a celebration of respect, “the respect that everyone on either side has for their opponent. Both teams play hard on the field, but on that field and in the stands and after the game throughout the year, we all respect one another. That’s the driving force that keeps this game going from year to year.” And that continuation hasn’t been without grave threats. Through a national depression and hurricanes and tough economic times, everybody has pitched in to make sure the annual game has continued uninterrupted. Even the assassination of a president occurring between the regular-season 1963 meeting between the two schools (won by Holy Cross 6-0) and the rematch for the state title couldn’t derail the historic meeting. Hurricane Katrina was just such a challenge. After the storm destroyed the Holy Cross 9th Ward campus, for one brief second somebody at a meeting with the Holy Cross Brothers from the governing regional office threw up a white flag and suggested an option might be to end Holy Cross School. A coup de grace. Just as quickly that white flag was ripped to shreds and tossed onto the floor. “Closing Holy Cross forever was off the table immediately” almost before that option was whispered by somebody at the table, says Holy Cross headmaster Charles DiGange, who was a backup running back on the 1963 state championship team. DiGange has spent the past 46 years at Holy Cross (“Not counting my four years as a student here”). On one wall of his office on the spectacular “new” Holy Cross campus on Paris Avenue, hangs a shadow box containing an “HC” football letter, patch and DiGange’s name patch, all mementoes from his football playing days at Holy Cross. DiGange may have been a backup running back in the 1963 game, but went in to play three quarters when starter Alan Rappold went down early in the second quarter. DiGange carried the ball twice for six yards, but “… I was also on the kickoff and punt teams … and made some tackles.” DiGange points to the shadow box: “Hurricane Betsy (1965) wiped us out,” he says. “We had 10 feet of water in our home. When we finally were able to get back into it, my jacket had disintegrated. All that was left were those three items – my letter, patch and name. My wife saved them for me in that shadow box. “As for the school itself, after Katrina we were determined to rebuild,” DiGange says. “The Dunham School (small private Christian school in Baton Rouge) let us use their classroom space to hold classes from 4 to 9 p.m., free of charge. I had 170 boys. I told all of our faculty that if they went to Baton Rouge, I would give them a job teaching.” Under those dire circumstances football may have seemed like luxury, but not so to then athletic director DiGange, Greg Battistella and Wilson. The trio pulled together a schedule; the Baton Rouge YMCA allowed the players to use its showers and the team used a myneworleans.com

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U-Haul truck as a locker room. “Think we don’t have a determined group of people here?” Wilson says with a wink. “That’s Holy Cross spirit … and it’s the same at Jesuit. We play hard, but we know in the end we respect one another and we’re dedicated to that.” Wilson once made the statement that if he were to coach on the high school level, Jesuit and Holy Cross were the only two jobs he would consider. When he finished his career as an All-SEC center playing, and later coaching, for Charlie McClendon at LSU, Wilson went on a coaching odyssey that over the next 32 years took him to coaching stops at USL (now the University of Louisiana Lafayette), Iowa State, Mississippi State, Oregon State (twice), Wyoming and Arkansas State before jumping at an offer made to him from his old Holy Cross teammate, Vic Eumont, to join him on the Jesuit staff. The next year, Wilson returned to where it all began when he took a coaching position at his alma mater: Holy Cross. He had finally come home. “I tell everybody I wish I had returned to high school coaching 10 years earlier,” Wilson says. “After 32 years of coaching I felt (moving to the high school level) was the thing to do. It was really a lifelong dream. And with my mother getting older and to be able to come home to New Orleans … there was no question about it. It was wonderful. It was like heaven!” Tommy Morel, a wide receiver for Jesuit during that championship year, lets loose with a wry smile. He knows what his old friend and adversary is talking about. It is New Orleans, Jesuit and Holy Cross; could anything be better? “We all grew up in Gentilly,” Morel says. “Many of us carpooled. Just from St. Raphael Parish Jesuit we had nine guys who played in that (1963) game, Holy Cross had another six. All from St.

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Raphael.” Morel went on to become LSU’s Most Valuable Player during the ’67 season and later played for the Saints for a year. “We were a real long shot to win that game against Holy Cross on that Friday night. Well, eight of us went to Mass the morning of the game to get an edge. Right before Mass starts, a bunch of guys from Holy Cross come in. They wanted an edge, too. I thought we outnumbered them, so that was all right. Well, it rained and the game was postponed to Saturday. So Saturday morning, all of us from Jesuit go back to Mass to get that edge. And don’t you know it, the door opens and here comes the Holy Cross guys looking for their edge.” The Holy Cross guys must’ve been praying a little harder because after the game was cancelled again due to the quagmire Tulane Stadium had become after an all-day rain Saturday, it was finally played on Tuesday: Holy Cross 14, Jesuit 6. And if it’s Holy Cross-Jesuit/Jesuit-Holy Cross month, the stories continue to fly and the anecdotes continue to grow to mythical proportions with each passing year. Barry Wilson says, “Hey do you remember …?” Charles DiGange adds a little known tidbit about a player he knew. Jesuit athletic director Dave Moreau tells about the late sportscaster Hap Glaudi, a lifelong resident of the 9th Ward and a proud Jesuit alumni, once telling a Holy Cross assembly about why he didn’t attend their school: “Because when I came here to register, the bridge was up.” Morel lets on that one of his proudest non-football memories was after his short-lived Saints career, he was a songwriter and wrote the popular jingle: “Luuuuuv that chicken from Popeyes.” And that’s why Jesuit-Holy Cross (or Holy Cross-Jesuit) is about much more than just what happens on the field. You may contact George Gurtner at ghgurtner@gmail.com.

Harvest Cup Polo Classic 2013 Fundraising at its Finest! The Junior League of Greater Covington and The 2013 Harvest Cup Polo Committee Present the 17th Annual Harvest Cup Polo Classic Sunday, November 3rd 2013 11:30am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5:30pm (Gates open at 10:30am for parking) Leah Farm in Folsom, home polo field for New Orleans Polo Club (16191 Hwy 40 Folsom, LA)

In addition to the exciting polo matches by the New Orleans Polo Club and a parade of breeds from local horse farms, patrons can expect fabulous food from over thirty regional restaurants, specialty libations including various martinis from Effen Vodka, mixed drinks from Old New Orleans Rum and specialty beers from Covington Brewhouse. The event will feature live entertainment from KARMA, live auction emceed by Mark Romig of artwork including our featured poster artist, Gretchen Armbruster, silent auctions, and exciting raffle and photo booth in the Lee Michaels Corporate tent. The national anthem will be sung by Margarita Warren. A catered, air conditioned VIP Lounge tent will be available for guests to watch the broadcasting of the New Orleans Saints verses the New York Jets game. Community Partners : United Way, Lee Michaels, Inside Northside and Covington Brewhouse

For more information about this event, please visit our website: www.jlgc.net myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

M O D I N E’S N EW O RLEAN S

Purses are a Girls’ Best Friend BY M O D I N E G U N C H

he song says diamonds are a girls ’ best friend .

But once you’re older and more mature, you realize how ridiculous that idea is. Your best friend is your purse. It provides all of life’s necessities: your phone, your aspirin, your female supplies, your emergency breath freshener; tissues for when the stall is out of toilet paper; just about anything you or whoever is with you might need. And it’s also where you stash used stuff, like napkins that have wiped chocolate off some kid’s face. Every now and then you get tired of lugging that big purse around, and decide to restrict yourself to a little tiny purse, with just the bare essentials. But essentials multiply like rabbits, and pretty soon you have everything that was in your big purse compressed like a brick into this little purse, and you’re afraid to open it because Godknows-what will spring out. Now, men do fine with just pockets, because: a) Men don’t serve as everybody else’s trash can – like women do. We start out teaching our kids not to litter, so if they eat a candy bar, we have them hand us the wrapper and we stick it in our purse because we can’t find a trash can. This goes on, and on, and they grow up, and graduate, and go bald, and they’re still handing us candy wrappers, which join with the wrappers of candies that aren’t even manufactured any more, and our purse is 30 pounds heavier than it used to be; b) Men like to look bulky; c) Men put their stuff into our purses. My gentleman friend Lust is always handing me something – from a Popsicle stick to an entire newspaper – to carry in my purse. I draw the line at some things. Like a take-out cup of coffee. I know from experience that if you put that in your purse, even if it has a tight lid, it will spill and drown your new cell phone in coffee. And when you take this phone back to where you got it and say, “It just broke. I don’t know why,” they will inhale the coffee fumes off it, and you won’t get no refund. Now, my sister-in-law Gloriosa, she got a thing for designer purses. They aren’t her best friends; they’re her trophies. She has a wardrobe of purses, each kept in a special dust-proof holder. Plus she insists, like my mama did, that your purse must always match your shoes. This makes no more sense than saying that your coffee cup must always match your toenail polish. Besides, changing purses is risky business. Even if you physically dump everything from the red purse directly into the black purse, like you was doing purse-to-purse resuscitation, you’ll always leave one thing behind. It will hide in some pocket or it’ll catch in the lining and it’ll be something crucial, like breath mints, which you’ll realize you don’t have just after you ate the onion salad. But sometimes you have to break down and change purses (like when the old one is full of coffee, for instance). Last month I found a nice big purse for $15 at 56

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Payless. So I emptied out my good old purse, sorted through the junk, found things that I’d given up for lost, like my daughter’s birth certificate; a Tootsie Roll (still mostly wrapped), which I ate; a lot of stray M&Ms, which I threw out; etc. Then I arranged my essential necessities neatly in my new purse. The next day, me and Lust went to the Oktoberfest with Gloriosa and her husband. We are standing there watching the Chicken Dance, and Lust gets the urge to go to the john. He says “Take this,” and hands me his beer. He thinks he’s putting it in my hand, but I’m entranced by some big guys in shorts and suspenders who remind me of the 610 Stompers. So I absent-mindedly hold out my purse, like usual, and he drops his mug of beer in it. I am a little upset – but Gloriosa is horrified. A purse! Ruint! To Gloriosa, this is like a death in the family. And unbeknownst to me, she pulls Lust aside and tells him he owes me a new bag. (She calls them “bags.” I think a bag is what you carry the groceries home in.) She recommends Coach in Canal Place. Coach is evidently the Holy Grail of pursedom. And she lays such a guilt trip on him that he actually goes there. The next day, he surprises me with a new purse. Well, I think it’s very sweet of him to give me something when it isn’t even my birthday, and I give him a big kiss and sling it over my shoulder and go home and show it to my daughter Gladiola. Who immediately freaks out and looks it up online and informs me that this Bag, which is now setting on my couch with the cat sniffing at it, cost $698. And here I was about to dump my things into it. I am so upset, I don’t know whether to spit or go blind. Lust expects me to walk around with a bag tha belongs in a safe. What if something spills in there? What if my ballpoint pen marks up the lining? What if, God forbid, it gets snatched? Finally I dump my purse contents into a Ziploc bag, zip it and place it very, very carefully into The Bag. And now, every morning after I have coffee with Lust, I strut off to work with The Bag on my shoulder. The minute I’m out of sight, I stash it in a Rouses grocery bag for protection. So for now I’m carrying two bags and The Bag. None of them match my shoes. LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION

myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

J OIE D’ E V E

BLOGS FROM THE NEW NEW ORLEANS

Around the Block Again

BY E V E C ra w f ord P e y ton here was definitely a time in my life when I

didn’t see the value in staying put. When I was in high school, I loved New Orleans, but I – like most high schoolers anywhere – was starving for new experiences, new landscapes, new friends, new foods. Mid-Missouri didn’t sound that exciting, true, but at least it was somewhere else. And so, 15 years ago, I eagerly waved goodbye to my favorite coffee shop and all of my high school friends and the shotgun duplex on Toulouse Street where I lived with my mom, and I packed up 17 years worth of paperbacks and flannel pajama pants and snapshots and ticket stubs and probably more than 20 pairs of shoes, and I left. Now, having been gone for 10 years and home for more than five, I take great comfort in the continuity I used to resent. I got an iced coffee on Tuesday from the same coffee shop I went to almost every day after middle school, I had lunch Wednesday with a friend I’ve known since third grade and I frequently walk with my daughters past my old house on Toulouse Street. It is a little strange pushing a stroller past the same steps I walked down in a prom dress; past the porch where I lingered with friends on dozens of humid nights, waving around a clove cigarette and feeling impossibly cool; past the curb that I drove over and popped two tires on my mom’s car the day after passing my driver’s test. But overall, I like it. It makes me feel sort of cozy. In a burst of synchronicity, just weeks after my daughter learned to ride a bike, she started first grade at Morris Jeff Community School’s new campus, the old Holy Rosary – which is where I learned how to ride a bike. Now every single school morning is a complete trip back in time. I park in front of the house where, back in 1987, a little girl named Megan used to live with her grandparents. The kids at school teased her because she had freckles and a lisp and an odd habit of sucking on her fingers until they had a strange, sweet scent and crinkled like tissue paper, but she was always nice to me. Her grandparents, I remember thinking, were annoyingly overprotective – she was never allowed to go anywhere with me – but she had every Milton Bradley game ever made and they kept lots of freezer pops on hand, which I loved even though they invariably made me cough. I spent many hours in her upstairs bedroom playing Cootie and Don’t Break the Ice and eating Fla-Vor-Ice pops and coughing and watching her suck her fingers. After we walk past Megan’s old house, we pass what’s now a bed-and-breakfast with a lush garden that spills over onto the sidewalk – but back in 1987, there used to be a patch of four-leaf clovers there. I have no idea what caused that particular mutation to happen in that particular spot, but I do know that almost every day I would go pick a fresh four-leaf clover from the patch and tuck it into my Trapper Keeper for good luck. When my best friend’s mom was in the hospital having a baby, I brought a four-leaf clover to school for her, and when another friend had to move to California suddenly, I sent her off with one, too. Then, just before we arrive at school, we walk past the historic house at Moss and Grand Route St. John. It is under construction now with a plaque up detailing its history, but the only history I know about the place is that a dog named Tara used to vigilantly guard the yard, lunging at the fence and snarling when I would pass. If I was on foot, I would run past Tara’s yard; if I was on my bike, I would stand up and pump the pedals frantically until I was past. I can still remember the exhilaration of being scared – behind a sturdy fence, Tara was never a real threat, but it was always exciting to mentally exaggerate the danger just to feel my heart racing. 58

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And then we’re in the school gates, and Ruby is taking her seat on the spot where I scraped my elbows and knees and hands more times than I can even remember. There is something so sweetly compelling about watching her memories form in the same place at the same age. Remembering Megan makes me realize how much compassion, discrimination and shallowness Ruby is capable of. Remembering the four-leaf clovers I so earnestly gave to my friends makes me appreciate and respect how strongly she must believe in both magic and love. Remembering the shivery thrill of sprinting past the barking dog confirms to me that I’m doing the right thing by giving Ruby little bits of independence – every time I made it safely past the yard, I always had a surge of pride, and I feel like that sort of mock exaggerated terror followed by triumph is a crucial part of childhood development, one that I would be depriving Ruby of if I were there to hold her hand past the yard of every literal or figurative scary dog. I know that one day, in another dozen years, Ruby herself will be weary of this city and ready for real thrills, real independence, and I’ll watch her pack up her teenage life into boxes and take off for parts unknown. I know for certain that I’ll cry; I know for certain that I’ll be happy for her. I know that I’ll want her to stay; I know that I will want her to go – and honestly, I hope, it will be more of the latter. After all, I’m happy that I left. Getting away from the city where I grew up was necessary and I don’t regret my time away. But I’m even happier, every day, that I came back. Excerpted from Eve Kidd Crawford’s blog, Joie d’Eve, which appears each Friday on MyNewOrleans.com. For comments: Info@NewOrleansMagazine.com.

myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

L OCAL C O L O R

C H R O N I C LES

The Other Time To Wear A Mask

What’s not to like about Oct. 31 in New Orleans? B y C arol y n K ol b

‘‘

on ’ t

yo u

know

how

make

paint

egg ? ”

confidential Halloween informant, a local attorney with obvious skills in mayhem, explained that a carefully emptied eggshell could be filled with paint. Tossing such eggs was a Halloween night custom in his youth. His favorite trick, however, was “putting soap on the streetcar tracks – the car would just slide past the stop.” Judging by those memories, Halloween in the Garden District in the 1930s wasn’t much different from anywhere in town over the years. And whether locals remember their favorite haunted house or sweet treat, everyone has their own favorite part of Halloween. (For related story see Scoop, pg. 44) In New Orleans, each neighborhood had its special features. In Lakeview, that included a haunted house. Patricia Murret, Assistant Director of Publications and Communications at University of New Orleans, always trick-or-treated with cousins in old Lakeview. “I remember stories of that haunted house,” she says. The home of the Orchard family, the solidly-build structure was at 214 Porteous St., at the corner of Milne Boulevard. Age, illness and family tragedies resulted in deterioration and vandalism, but, until the building was finally razed in the 1970s, it was a spooky spot on the Halloween trick-or-treat route. Lakeview has a Facebook page, titled “I grew up in Lakeview, did you? What do you remember?” (facebook. com/groups/246174985406087) Besides the haunted house, one of the online memories is of a beloved teacher at Hynes School, Ophelia Rees “Fifi” Risley, who used to decorate her porch and sit there on Halloween, dressed as a witch to dispense goodies. Geoffrey Roniger, owner of Freret Street Yoga, remembers trick-or-treating with friends on Fairway Drive. “It was very festive, every house was decorated and even the adults had on costumes.” His favorite treat? “Little Snickers bars. We would just load up – a garbage bag full of junk food. And, you’d keep it around, ration it out, until your mom finally threw it away.” Roniger attended Metairie Park Country Day School, where every year the kindergarten class parades in their Halloween costumes. Roniger was “Greedo from Star Wars – the green alien creature that Han Solo shoots in the beginning. I had a green top and pants and blue gloves, and my aunt Mary Sue Roniger made me a papier mâché head. It was sparkly green, it was huge and the ears were perfect – it was really cool!” Roniger recalls. Keeping up the family tradition, Roniger’s son Xander, a student at St. Paul’s School, dressed up as

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Darth Vader last year. (Younger brother Zach was costumed as Elmo.) Adults like Halloween, too. The Krewe of Boo (KreweOfBoo. com) parades through the French Quarter on Sat., Oct. 26. And the gay community’s Halloween New Orleans, a fundraiser for Project Lazarus (supporting care for HIV/Aids patients) celebrates its 30th year Oct, 24-27. (Check HalloweenNewOrleans.com for details, and remember, this event has already raised $4.6 million.) The House of Blues will host the Endless Night Vampire Ball (EndlessNight.com) on Sat., Oct. 26. This “masquerade ballthemed soirée” began in New Orleans in 1998, and there are balls in Paris and New York, according to the event’s organizer, Father Sebastiaan (that’s the Dutch spelling, he says). A maker of custom fangs (he’s a former dental technician) Sebastiaan admits he “downsized” the local event after 9/11, and after Katrina, he waited until 2008 to begin it again. Theme this year is “Vampires vs. Zombies” (“it will be sort of a dance-off”) and Sebastiaan will go as a “Zombie Borgia Cardinal”). Another New Orleans Halloween custom is the haunted house. The first haunted house intended as a fundraiser was advertised in The Times-Picayune in 1970 by the Stardusters Drum and Bugle Corps, then located in Arabi. In the past, the Orleans Parish Criminal Sheriff held a haunted house. One offering this year will be an elaborate commercial haunted house operation at The Mortuary at 4800 Canal St. The venue, once a funeral home, offers a Zombie Outbreak theme this year. On nights it’s open, doors will close at 11 p.m. “or when the last victim to purchase a ticket has gone through,” according to its website, Mortuary.net. To most New Orleanians, Halloween marks the end of the month of October. But to Jessica Krupa, it also marked her first day in the city. Famed drummer and family member, Gene Krupa, isn’t the only Krupa to love jazz. “I had lived in Los Angeles all my life, and I decided to move 2,000 miles away – on a whim,” she explains. “I took a red eye flight from Los Angeles, changed planes in Atlanta and I got here after midnight – and when I got in the airport they were playing old jazz. It was incredible!” Miscommunications with her only two acquaintances in the city forced her to take a cab to town. “We drove on Esplanade and it was like a dream to me, it was so beautiful.” Finally, she connected with her friends and moved with them into their new apartment off Elysian Fields. By then it was Halloween night 2012. “There was no electricity, so we got some little tea lights.” Jessica was prepared: “I had made my own Harley Quinn Costume, and one of my friends was costumed as the Joker.” The two “Batman” characters helped create a zombie outfit for the other friend. (“We just painted her face red and threw dirt all over her.”) It was an impromptu party and a different sort of introduction to a new city, but, as Jessica explains, “It was the most brilliant Halloween I’ve ever had!”

Guess what? It isn’t an “Old New Orleans Custom.” The first mention of Halloween in The Picayune wasn’t until Oct. 31, 1871: “Hallowe’en … was formerly supposed, among the superstitious classes of the Scottish people, to be a time when witches … held annual holiday.” However, in New Orleans, “our people will be making arrangements for the appropriate observance of All Saints’ Day tomorrow.” First mention of a local Halloween party came only on Nov. 8, 1891, with a note that “Miss Virgie Fairfax entertained a number of her young friends at a very pleasant Halloween party.” “Trick or treat” wasn’t acknowledged until Oct. 28, 1944, in a column on Halloween party recipes from local home cooks. myneworleans.com

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HOME

Creole Cottage Goes Grand 1887 grandeur remains in modernized home BY B O N N I E W A R R E N photographed b y c H E R Y L G E R B E R 62

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t looks like a grown - u p dollho u se from the c u rb

– all pristine, with a travertine courtyard out front, an old olive jar converted to a fountain and a broad front porch, just made for sitting and enjoying life. It is another glorious example of the stock of historic houses that line streets throughout New Orleans. Imagine 1887: think about Maud Meares, wife of Thomas Elliot, who acquired the property that year and built the classic Creole cottage that remains today. There was nothing grand about this house back then. It was just four nicely sized rooms with a fireplace in each and a front porch to sit and catch a breeze from the Mississippi River just a few blocks away. Today the house remains a beauty from the street. There are still four rooms and two front doors. One step inside and you’ll see how this house has grown to be a mini-mansion – the original four rooms still take center stage, but there’s so much more to tell about the house that exists today. It is a beauty, with the original back porch converted to a new dining room and kitchen. Then there’s a corridor that joins all of this to a completely new structure in the back that was built to look as if it had always been there, with a pathway outdoors between the two buildings and just enough room for a garden on either side of the path. The newer house has a huge living space with triple French doors that open onto the rear garden, a bedroom, a bathroom and even a mini-kitchen. It is designed to be a multi-purpose space or even a separate apartment. “I loved everything about this house the first time I saw it,” says Regina Lynch, who owns Ecru Antiques and Interiors on

Facing page: The 11-foot long 19th-century French harvest table and vintage French chairs with rush bottoms continue the simple theme of the house in the room that was once the back porch of the original house; for a playful touch, a French chandelier featuring antlers takes center stage in the room. This page, bottom: The original pine ceilings in both parlors are glazed and the original pine floors also remain; furnishings include the all-white linen slipcovered sofa and armless chairs anchored by a painted table. Below: Originally the 1887 Creole cottage was four rooms, with front and back porches.

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Magazine Street with her daughter Destiny Cowdin-Lynch. Fortunately, she was smart enough to purchase it the first time she saw it – just hours before it was to go on the market. “Some of the things that intrigued me about the house were the layers of paint on the original woodwork; the 12-foot-high ceilings; the original pine floors and the original hardware on the doors, even though I know now they’re hard to open at times. I immediately thought about the people who had called it home, and I knew I wanted to be the next owner of this historical jewel.” What Regina discovered was a house, and then almost another house. “Much thought had gone in to creating the addition in the rear. It wasn’t just something tacked onto the original building,” she says. “Making it a separate building with a new pitched roof and just a corridor that joins the two houses made it unique and open to many possibilities.” A talented designer, Regina didn’t take long to put her unique stamp 64

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on the house. “I love neutral colors and the simple eclectic look of mixing fine antiques with contemporary art and fresh new accessories, such as the pair of lamps in the front parlor with shell bases.” She loves bare floors with cowhide rugs defining the seating and surprising chandeliers, such as the French one in the dining room that was fashioned from antlers. The double parlors are a study in white linen-covered seating and the duplicate chandeliers that were once outdoor fixtures before she removed the glass, painted them white and hung them in the parlors. “I like surprises in each room,” she says. Because Regina and her husband, James, the owner of Mansfield Auto World, also own a large house in Shreveport, where she still spends part of each month, she wanted something manageable, yet interesting and historical for their second home. “James was all in favor of getting a home in New Orleans since he’s from this area,” she says, “and it was like coming home for him.”

Facing page, top left: A skylight was added in the kitchen, which has been kept simple without wall cabinets to stay true to the style of the historic house; the lower cabinets were crafted from reclaimed wood, with French terra-cotta tiled countertops, and an old worktable on casters is used as the workstation, which was also part of the original back porch. Top right: The original fireplace remains in the master bathroom, which features Carrera marble on the vanity, surrounding the tub and on the floor. Bottom: Regina Lynch. This page, top: The original pine boards on the ceiling add interest to the attic sleeping quarters; a small French antique day bed and an old iron-base table flank the bed. Left: The front parlor is a study in simplicity with a pair of chaise longues, matching shell base lamps and contemporary paintings by Tony Mose on each wall; windows are left uncovered, with original shutters outside. myneworleans.com

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myneworleans.com

THEMENU TABLE TALK

RESTAURANT INSIDER

FOOD

LAST CALL

DINING LISTINGS TABLE TALK:

New Southern PAGE 68

“Almost all of our produce, meat and – of course – seafood is local. That is our main focus. I think you’ve got to have that before you can do anything else.” - Chef Kristen Essig, Sainte Marie Brasserie

JEFFERY JOHNSTON PHOTOGRAPH

myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

T HE M EN U

T A B L E T A L K

Sainte Marie’s -Pork Belly with Watermelon, Shrimp and Corn Fritter

New Southern Taking comfort food out of its comfort zone By Jay Forman

For example, tater tots get re-imagined with diced is the season for comfort food. Few genres speak better to this Andouille sausage and manchego cheese with a than Southern cuisine, with its emphasis on flavors that seem ramekin of creamy green onion dip. It is a creative to reach back through time and tap into childhood memoand approachable version of comfort food and a ries. And while New Orleans isn’t a traditional Southern food town, several recommended starter. local chefs have put a focus on this style of cooking in recent years. They also Bread comes from Dong Phuong and Maple bring their own voice to the table, using their talent to approach traditional Street Patisserie, vegetables come from Covey Rise Southern fare with a unique perspective. The restaurant at the Hotel Modern Farms and meat comes from its sister company at Lee Circle has been a bit of a merry-go-round over the past few years. Chappapeela Farms. These components come Dominique Macquet’s Tamarind gave way to the placeholder pop-up Why together harmoniously in the pork belly sliders, Not? before its latest iteration, Tivoli & Lee. Chef Mike Nirenberg, who worked dressed up with a spicy slaw and Hoisin-sauce in the aforementioned restaurants as well as at Oak and Patois, has been glaze on sweet brioche rolls. Traditional preservaone constant through this change, and this new restaurant – his own – that tive techniques, of which Nirenberg is a fan, are has emerged from the fray, offers clear direction on what he terms “modern featured on the entrée menu. Take his Eden Farms Southern” cuisine. “The modern thing is that I think people are going Other Southerns back toward eating stuff that’s sourced locally, preOther places around town with an emphasis on modpared simply and done well. I’m not talking about ern Southern cuisine include Coquette, right, where ‘modern’ in technique. We’re not doing foams,” chef Michael Stoltzfus puts a pronounced emphasis on Nirenberg says. “It is classic Southern flavors and local sourcing and seasonal ingredients as in a recent definitely Southern ingredients used to prepare dish of pork loin, cashews, figs and purslane bound dishes in a way that people haven’t seen before. But with Louisiana honey. In the French Quarter, SoBou still it’s about being back to basics, simplicity.” plays it a bit closer to home with a focus on New The focus is on sourcing as much as possible Orleans street foods and eyebrow-raising drink-friendly locally and letting the ingredients shine. The twist indulgences such as pork cracklin’ with pimento is that he often mines flavors from our collective cheese fondue and butternut squash beignets with foie childhoods and approaches them in a different way. gras fondue and a chicory-coffee panache.

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JEFFERY JOHNSTON PHOTOGRAPH, TOP

Not-So-Simply pork confit. To make it, he cubes pork butt, immerses it in bacon fat Southern and slow roasts it in the oven. It cools Tivoli and Lee off, preserved in the fat, and then the 2 Lee Circle cubes are sliced and seared in bacon 962-0909 fat to order. “It gets crispy from the TivoliandLee.com pan and is super-flavorful from the Breakfast, lunch and dinner slow confit,” he says. “It is just a fun daily; brunch Saturdaysway to work with pork butt.” Sundays Going into October, look for root Sainte Marie vegetables, heirloom tomatoes and 930 Poydras St. squash to appear on the menu. Suite 101 “October is a good time,” he says. 304-6988 “You still have some of those late sumSainteMarieNola.com mer ingredients and also the fall stuff.” Lunch Mondays-Fridays A chance encounter a while back and Sundays; dinner at Sylvain in the French Quarter nightly; closed 2-4 p.m. between Alex Harrell and chef between services Kristen Essig helped to fill a big pair of shoes at Sainte Marie Brasserie. This forward-looking restaurant on Poydras Street needed a new chef following the tragic death of Ngoc Nygen last January. Essig, who lives in the French Quarter, bumped into Harrell at the bar there. The pair had worked together at Bayona a while back and they got to talking about Sainte (also referred to as “Ste.”) Marie. “I told him, well if you’re looking for a new chef, think about me!” Essig had been working as a private chef for the past several years and was looking for a new challenge. “A month later they called me and I came in and interviewed and that was it.” While not explicitly Southern, Essig shares a similar approach as Nirenberg. A veteran of Anne Kearny’s Peristyle as well as Bayona, Essig immediately put the focus on sourcing locally and emphasized using quality ingredients in creative ways rather than any modernist tricks or gimmicks to make her food shine. “Almost all of our produce, meat and – of course – seafood is local. That is our main focus. I think you’ve got to have that before you can do anything else,” Essig says. Regarding a Southern slant, she recently ran a pork chop dish smothered with pepper jelly served on a sweet potato cake with house-made pancetta-braised crowder peas (a staple of soul food cooking). For a more modern take on Southern fare (if you have a chance to try it before melon rolls out of season) don’t miss her pork belly and watermelon appetizer. “We braise it with ginger and then use local turnips pickled with a little bit of rice wine vinegar, a little orange zest,” she says. “We use red and yellow melon from Mississippi and we finish the dish with basil oil.” One new Southern dish that gives a nod to New Orleans’ claim as the northernmost port of the Caribbean is her barbecue jerk shrimp appetizer. “We serve it over coconut rice dressed up with a little bit of soy and coriander seed, along with green onions. It’s a fun twist on the southern New Orleans barbecue shrimp but with Caribbean jerk flavor.” This dish is accompanied with mango chow chow made from cabbage, mustard seeds, red pepper, mango white wine vinegar and sugar. The chow chow is a creation of her cook, Sam, also the creator of a ya ka mein dish that started out as a family meal but was so popular it rolled over onto the restaurant’s main menu. Going into October, Essig is excited to be working with ingredients such as indigenous but not often used Muscadine and scuppernong grapes, as well as homemade preserves. “Looking ahead to fall, I like to use my pepper jellies and do something with my preserved peaches,” she says, “by preserving them I can use this good stuff later in the year.” myneworleans.com

OCTOBER 2013

T HE M E N U

R E S T A U R A N T IN SID ER

Restaurants New and Revisited

Restaurant Insider

B Y RO B E R T P E Y T ON

nother month , an d yet more notab l e

restaurants are opening in New Orleans. There was a time when I reacted to a half-dozen serious restaurants opening in post-Katrina New Orleans with amazement. Then I was baffled, then dumbfounded, confused, amazed again, then sleepy, so I took a nap; then I was confused again but for other reasons, and now I’m just resigned to the fact that we’re soon going to have more restaurants than residents. As I write, Mizado (5080 Pontchartrain Blvd.) is set to open in a newly constructed building. It is slated to be a pan-Latin restaurant with a more South American bent than typically seen in New Orleans. Mizado is yet another restaurant by the Taste Buds group, the folks who run Semolina and Zea Rotisserie & Grill; the previous building at Mizado’s address was once home to a Semolina restaurant. Petite Amelie (900 Royal St.) has opened as a companion to Café Amelie at the corner of Dumaine and Royal streets in the French Quarter. There is seating in the restaurant, but there’s an equal focus on take-out, or “cuisine rapide” if you don’t mind people laughing at you, which seems like a fantastic idea for the French Quarter (the take-out, not the laughing). There are salads and a lot of pressed sandwiches on the menu, as well as soups and fresh juices. Breakfast is an option, too, with paninistyle “waffle melts” such as the jalapeño popper (goat cheese, pepper jack cheese, bacon and pepper jelly) and the crunchy peanut butter and banana (with seasonal jam and the addition of bacon for another $5) available. Petite Amelie is open from Wednesdays through Sundays from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Call 412-8065 or find Petite Amelie on Facebook to learn more. Then there’s Cane & Table (1113 Decatur St.). This rum-centric spot in the space formerly occupied by Pravda is another venture by the kids behind Cure and Bellocq (Neal Bodenheimer, Kirk Estopinal, Matt Kohnke and Nick Dietrich) and Adam Biederman, of Company Burger. It is sort of a tiki-bar crossed with a colonial Caribbean public house, but with a deep-fryer and without the malaria. Go for the rum drinks; stay for the jerk chicken and deep-fried ribs. You can call Cane & Table at 5811112 to find out what’s happening. Cane & Table’s Fried Corn with house Rum Punch

Atchafalaya’s Gazpacho

One of the things about this writing gig is that I get to try a lot of new restaurants. It is a pretty sweet deal, but it invariably means I don’t get to patronize some restaurants I’d really like to visit more often. Then there are restaurants that have been around for years but that for one reason or another I haven’t visited. Atchafalaya (901 Louisiana Ave.) was one of those until I visited late this summer. I am glad I did, even if it means I now have to add the restaurant to the list of those I don’t visit as much as I’d like. Atchafalaya is tucked away in the section of Louisiana Avenue between Magazine and Tchoupitoulas streets on a quiet, well-gardened corner. What you’ll see in the beds and planters outside the restaurant’s entrance will no doubt change with the seasons, but this attention to detail is reflected in the interior design of the place. There is art everywhere, and clever elements are integrated into the restaurant’s very structure – the wall dividing the bar from the main dining room is made from old window frames, painted and connected into a visually appealing divider between the two spaces that nevertheless keeps the overall atmosphere open and airy. This would be nice but meaningless if the food weren’t good as well. Chef Chris Lynch’s menu is a mix of classic Creole with the sort of locallysourced cooking that’s become obligatory in restaurants with any ambition. Food trends come and go, but it seems to me sourcing ingredients locally is one that doesn’t have many downsides, at least not when you live someplace as fertile as Southern Louisiana. And Lynch comes to it honestly, with experience at Emeril’s and the now-shuttered Meson 923 under his belt. At any rate, the crabmeat in a special soup of watermelon gazpacho was sweet and generously portioned, as it was in the free-form ravioli with shiitake mushrooms and a buttery tomato sauce. Duck confit with rapini and white beans came with tart oven-roasted tomatoes and a sweet onion marmalade that together set off the richness of the duck. The bread pudding changes frequently, but the version I tried – with huckleberries – was delicious. I am more a fan of light-airy bread pudding than dense, and like my wife I prefer it without raisins; Atchafalaya’s came through on both counts. It is nice to “discover” a place that’s been around for this long. If you’ve never been, trust me and go soon. Call 891-9626 to make a reservation before you do. Atchafalaya is open for lunch Wednesdays through Fridays, for dinner every night and for brunch Saturdays and Sundays. Visit AtchafalayaRestaurant.com for more information.

Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Email rdpeyton@gmail.com 70

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S A R A E S S E X B R A DL E Y P H O T O G R A P H S

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FOOD

ne of my fon d est memor i es of N ew

Orleans in the mid-1900s was dining at Kolb’s restaurant for lunch. My favorite entrée was a short ribs dish that I’ve replicated many times, but the most fun of all was during Oktoberfest when a Tyrolean orchestra played and everyone got up from their tables and did the chicken dance. It was a festive affair with large quantities of beer being consumed and German dishes such as bratwurst, red cabbage, sauerbraten and strudels being served. The old restaurant (1899-1994)

was a beautiful place with a European setting. One side looked like a German tavern while the other had Dutch influences. A series of belt-driven ceiling fans came from the Cotton Centennial Exposition of 1884, held in what’s now Audubon Park. Founded by Conrad Kolb, who owned farms and used his vegetables in the restaurant, Kolb’s had its ups and downs and changes of ownership. But mention Oktoberfest, and Kolb’s was the place to be. Today’s celebrations center around Deutsches Haus, where a full schedule of events are planned (see sidebar). Then some

Ode to Oktoberfest Yearnin’ for German this season

Beer Glazed Bratwurst with German Red Cabbage 72

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EUGENIA UHL PHOTOGRAPH

by Dale Curry

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OCTOBER 2013

of us may want to celebrate at home. What are we celebrating? German Crown Prince Ludwig, later to become King Ludwig I, married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen on Oct. 12, 1810, in Munich. Horse races in the presence of the royal family marked the close of the event that was celebrated for the whole of Bavaria. The decision to repeat the races in the following year gave rise to the tradition of Oktoberfest, held in Munich each year in late September-early October. I have had little experience with eating or cooking German food, but like most New Orleanians, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always up for a party. After much research, trial and error, these are my choices for easy-enough German dishes to put on a spread. Most importantly, your Oktoberfest must include plenty of German beer. There are several brewed just for Oktoberfest and several brews imported from Germany. Try wine shops, import markets or supermarkets for these, or choose German wines to suit your fancy. I treasure my little white wine glasses with green stems that I got in Germany and will likely go with a Gewurztraminer, known for its crisp, spicy characteristics. And, if the mood strikes you, flap your wings and do the chicken dance.

Beer-Glazed Bratwurst 2 Tablespoons olive oil 10 links fresh bratwurst sausages, about 2 to 2 1/2 pounds 2 onions, thinly sliced 2 12-ounce bottles German lager beer 2 Tablespoons light brown sugar

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3 teaspoons dry mustard powder 1/4 teaspoon celery seeds 1/4 teaspoon caraway seeds 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt

Heat olive oil in a large skillet.

Using a fork, stick several holes into the sausage links to keep skin from popping. Over mediumhot heat, brown bratwurst, turning to brown evenly. Add onions and sautĂŠ until limp. Mix all remaining ingredients and pour over bratwurst. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove sausages and reduce liquid, uncovered, over medium-high heat, until it thickens and becomes syrupy, 10 to 15 minutes. Return sausages and set aside until ready to serve. Serve hot. Serves 5

German Red Cabbage 4 Tablespoons olive oil 10 cups shredded red cabbage 2 Granny Smith green apples, peeled and sliced 1 large onion, diced 2/3 cup apple cider vinegar 6 Tablespoons water 6 Tablespoons sugar Salt to taste, about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 cloves, crushed with a mortar and pestle 1 teaspoon caraway seed, crushed with a mortar and pestle

Heat olive oil in a large, heavy pot. Add all other ingredients. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Serves 6 to 8

Creamy Potato Casserole 4 large baking potatoes 10 slices bacon 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 Tablespoons butter 1 1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, divided 3/4 cup sour cream 1/3 cup milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, about 1/2-teaspoon each

Bake potatoes in a 400-degree oven until fork tender, about 1 hour. Grease a 2-quart casserole dish. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a

large skillet until crispy. Drain on paper towels. Crumble when cooled. Remove all but 1 Tablespoon bacon grease from the skillet. In the grease, sauté the onion until wilted, add the garlic and sauté another minute or two. Set aside. When potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh into a bowl. Add butter, letting it melt over the potatoes. Discard skins. Add half the cheese, sour cream, milk, salt and pepper. Mix well and spread in casserole dish. Top with other half of the cheese and crumbled bacon. Bake in a 350-degree oven until just bubbling, 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 6 to 8

Easy Apple Strudel 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and thinly sliced 1 cup brown sugar 3/4 cup golden raisins 1/2 cup pecans, chopped 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1 Tablespoon lemon juice 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed but kept refrigerated 1 egg 1/4 cup milk

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place apples in a large bowl. Stir in brown sugar, raisins, pecans, spices and lemon juice. Place puff pastry on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roll lightly with a rolling pin. You may need a few sprinkles of flour to keep pastry from sticking to rolling pin. Spoon apple mixture down the middle of the pastry lengthwise. Fold the pastry over the mixture and seal edges, using a little water on your fingers and pushing the pastry edges together. Whisk together egg and milk, and brush onto top of pastry. You will only use a portion of this. Bake in preheated oven for about 30 minutes or until golden brown. Serves 6 to 8

Oktoberfest at Deutsches Haus The fun begins Fri., Oct. 11, with weekly activities including traditional German folk dancing, German wines and liquors and more than 20 German beers. Authentic German cuisine will include sauerbraten, krautwickel, kasseler rippchen, sauerkraut, kartoffelbrei, bratwurst and giant Bavarian pretzels. Fri., Oct. 11, 4-11 p.m. Dinner and food booths, live music and beer Sat., Oct 12, 1-11 p.m. Lunch, dinner and food booths, live music and beer; children’s activities including puppet show, 2-5 p.m.; dachshund races: registration at 1 p.m. Fri., Oct. 18, 4-11 p.m. Dinner and food booths, live music and beer Sat., Oct. 19, 1-11 p.m. Lunch, dinner and food booths, live music and beer; children’s activities including puppet show, 2-5 p.m.; 5K run, 5 p.m. Fri., Oct. 25, 4-11 p.m. Dinner and food booths, live music and beer Sat., Oct. 26, 1 p.m.-11 p.m. Lunch, dinner and food booths, live music and beer; c hildren’s activities including puppet show, 2 p.m.-5 p.m.; wine tasting of wines from Germany, Austria and Alsace, 5 p.m. Deutsches Haus is temporarily located at 1023 Ridgewood Drive, Metairie, until its new home is completed in Orleans Parish. For more information, call 522-8014 or visit deutscheshaus.org.

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OCTOBER 2013

THE MENU

LAST CALL

Moving Right Along into Fall B Y T I M M C NALLY

on ’ t l ook now , but the o d ometer for 2 0 1 3 just

flipped over into double-digits. All those things you were planning to accomplish just a few short months ago but didn’t, and now the sands in the hourglass are flowing, are barely giving you enough time to party. However your priorities are still steadfast. So party on you must. There is plenty to celebrate this month, like the football season; the preseason games of our newly named NBA team, the Pelicans; cooler breezes blowing into town; our infamous Halloween celebrations at month’s end; and a whole lineup of festivals just about every weekend in all corners of our area. That means we need something festive by way of liquid refreshment, easy to make and even easier to drink, to put us in the mood, which most of us stay in anyway. But you know that. As far as favorite cocktails are concerned, the French 75 is in the top five in New Orleans. It likely never occurred to anyone, up to now, to create a French Quarter 75. The talented gang at Ruth’s Chris Steak House, led by Helen Mackey, the Vice President of Beverage Strategy (and you thought you had a cool job title?), has solved the issue. We will all rest easier tonight, but only after a few of these.

OCTOBER 2013

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French Quarter 75 Single portion 3/4 ounce Hendrick’s Gin or VSOP Cognac, your choice 3/4 ounce St. Germain Elderberry Liqueur 1/2 ounce Lemon Sour* 3 ounces Piper Sonoma Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine

Add all ingredients except sparkling wine to shaker, add ice and shake. Pour ingredients into Champagne flute and add cold sparkling wine. Garnish with a fresh raspberry and lemon wedge. (If your tastes aren’t on the sweeter side, use 1/2 suggested amount of St. Germain and/or fresh lemon juice instead of Lemon Sour; you can also use a bit more sparkling wine, either Blanc de Blancs or Brut or Brut Champagne.) * Lemon Sour: 1 part freshly squeezed lemon juice to 2 parts sugar syrup, which is 1 part sugar to 2 parts water. S A R A E S S E X B R A DL E Y P H O T O G R A P H

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OCTOBER 2013

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$= Average entrée price of $5-$10; $$=$1115; $$$=$16-20; $$$$=$21-25; $$$$$=$25 and up.

5 Fifty 5 Restaurant Marriott Hotel, 555 Canal St., 553-5638, French Quarter, 555Canal.com. B, L, D daily. This restaurant offers innovative American fare such as lobster macaroni and cheese, seasonal Gulf fish with crab and mâche salad with boudin. Many of the dishes receive an additional touch from their wood-burning oven. $$$$

7 on Fulton 701 Convention Center Blvd., 525-7555, CBD/Warehouse District, 7onFulton.com. B, L, D daily. Upscale and contemporary dining destination. $$$$

13 Restaurant and Bar 517 Frenchmen St., 942-1345, Faubourg Marigny, 13Monaghan. com. B, L, D daily, open until 4 a.m. Latenight deli catering to hungry club-hoppers. Bar and excellent jukebox make this a good place to refuel. $

Abita Brew Pub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, Abita Springs, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Famous for its Purple Haze and Turbodog brews, Abita serves up better-thanexpected pub food in their namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$

Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville St., 5225973, French Quarter; 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, Metairie; 1202 N. Highway 190, (985) 246-6155, Covington; AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

Aloha Sushi 1051 Annunciation St., 5660021, Warehouse District, SunRayGrill.com. L, D Tue-Sat. A large list of rolls, hot rice bowls, Asian-inspired soups, salads, cocktails and more. Visit for Sake Hour (4-6 p.m.): half-priced sake and three rolls for the price of two. $$

Ancora 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, Uptown, AncoraPizza.com. L Fri-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples keeps pizza connoisseurs coming back to this Freret Street hot-spot. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. New Orleans Magazine’s 20011 Pizza Restaurant of the Year. $$ Andrea’s Restaurant 3100 19th St., 8348583, Metairie, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat D daily, Br Sun. Indulge in osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. New Orleans Magazine Honor Roll honoree 2009. $$$

Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, French Quarter, Antoines.com. L Mon-Sat,

DINING GUIDE D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is á la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms are available. $$$$$

Arnaud’s 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, French Quarter, Arnauds.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brulot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame in the French Quarter; live jazz during Sun. brunch. New Orleans Magazine’s 2011 Honor Roll winner. $$$$$

Audubon Clubhouse 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, Uptown. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. Nested among the oaks in Audubon Park, the beautifully situated clubhouse is open to the public and features a kid-friendly menu with New Orleans tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu for adults. $$

August Moon 3635 Prytania St., 899-5129, 899-5122, Uptown, MoonNola.com. L, D Mon-Fri, D Sat. Lots of vegetarian offerings and reasonable prices make this dependable Chinese/Vietnamese place a popular choice for students and locals. Take-out and delivery available. $

Austin’s 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, Metairie, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ The Avenue Pub 1732 St. Charles Ave., 586-9243, Uptown, TheAvenuePub.com. L, D daily (kitchen open 24 hours a day). With more than 47 rotating draft beers, this pub also offers food including a cheese plate from St. James Cheese Co., a crab cake sandwich and the “Pub Burger.” $

Bacchanal Fine Wines and Spirits 600 Poland Ave., 948-9111, Bywater, BacchanalWine.com. L, D daily. The pop-up that started it all, this ongoing backyard music and food fest in the heart of Bywater carries the funky flame. Best of all, the front of house is a wine shop. $$

Barcelona Tapas 720 Dublin St., 861-9696, Riverbend, LetsEat.at/BarcelonaTapas. D TueSun. Barcelona Tapas is chef-owner Xavier Laurentino’s homage to the small-plates restaurants he knew from his hometown of Barcelona. The tapas are authentic, and the space, renovated largely by Laurentino himself, is charming. $

Basil Leaf Restaurant 1438 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-9001, Uptown, BasilLeafThai.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Thai food and sushi bar with a contemporary spin is served in this date-friendly establishment; private rooms

available. $$

Basin Seafood & Spirits 3222 Magazine St., 302-7391, Uptown. L, D Tue-Sat. The focus is on seafood at this uncluttered, contemporary joint venture between Colombian chef Edgar Caro from Barü Bistro & Tapas and Louisiana fishing guide Tommy Peters. Their generally lighter approach is represented in dishes such as whole grilled snapper as well as traditional favorites such as spicy boiled crawfish (in season). $$

Bayona 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, French Quarter, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weatherpermitting. $$$$$

The Beach House 2401 N. Woodlawn St., 456-7470, Metairie. L, D daily. Gumbo, steaks, lobsters, burgers and seafood are accompanied by live music each and every night. $$$

Besh Steak Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, CBD/Warehouse District, HarrahsNewOrleans.com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007. $$$$$

Bistro Daisy 5831 Magazine St., 899-6987, Uptown, BistroDaisy.com. D, Tue-Sat. Chef Anton Schulte and his wife Diane’s bistro, named in honor of their daughter, serves creative and contemporary bistro fare in a romantic setting along Magazine Street. The signature Daisy Salad is a favorite. $$$$

Blue Plate Café 1330 Prytania St., 3099500, Uptown. B, L Mon-Fri. Breakfasts and lunches are the hallmarks of this neighborhood spot. The Ignatius sandwich comes equipped with 10 inches of paradise. $

The Bombay Club Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 586-0972, French Quarter, TheBombayClub.com. D daily. Popular martini bar appointed with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$

Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., 524-3386, CBD/Warehouse District, TheBonTonCafe. com. L, D Mon-Fri. A local favorite for the oldschool business lunch crowd, it specializes in local seafood and Cajun dishes. $$$$

Bouche 840 Tchoupitoulas St., 267-7485, Warehouse District, BoucheNola.com. L, D Wed-Sat. Bouche is a mix of lounge, cigar bar and restaurant with an open kitchen serving

largely Southern food in portions Bouche calls “Partailles” – something larger than an appetizer but smaller than an entrée. $$$

Boucherie 8115 Jeannette St., 862-5514, Riverbend, Boucherie-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, Chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients, presented simply. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2009. $$

Brigtsen’s 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Uptown, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally-famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy Riverbend cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

Broken Egg Cafe 200 Girod St., (985) 2317125, Mandeville. B, Br, L daily. Breakfastcentric café in turn-of-the-century home offers a sprawling assortment of delicious items both healthy and decadent. $$

Brooklyn Pizzeria 4301 Veterans Blvd., 833-1288, Metairie, EatBrooklyn.net. L, D daily (Drive thru/take out). Pie shop on Vets specializes in New York-style thin crust. The pizza is the reason to come, but sandwiches and salads are offered as well. $

Byblos 1501 Metairie Road, 834-9773, Metairie; 3342 Magazine St., 894-1233, Uptown; 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 8307333 Metairie; 29 McAlister Drive, Tulane University;2020 Veterans Blvd., 837-9777; ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$

Café Adelaide Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CBD/Warehouse District, CafeAdelaide.com. B, D daily, L Mon-Fri. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for businessmen and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$

Café Burnside Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, Darrow, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$

Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, Mid-City, CafeDegas.com. L Wed-Sat, D WedSun, Br Sun. Light French bistro food including salads and quiche make this indoor/outdoor boîte a Faubourg St. John favorite. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 French Restaurant of the Year. $$$

Café du Monde 800 Decatur St., 525-0454,

Indulge in Redemption

Redemption, 3835 Iberville St., 309-3570, Redemption-Nola.com

Resurrected after Katrina, Redemption lives up to its name. Originally built as a church in 1914, the building served as a restaurant for 30 years and then as a temporary place of worship after Katrina. Now, restored by The Delaune Family, it’s a new temple to Southern cuisine, led by chef Greg Picolo (formerly of The Bistro at Maison DeVille) in a unique space complete with stained glass windows, oak beams and a lush patio. To tempt you, there’s a $20 three-appetizer deal with wine specials Tuesdays-Fridays, 5-7 p.m., or you can visit on Sundays for brunch. – Mi r e l l a c a m e r a n

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French Quarter; One Poydras Suite 27, 5870841, New Orleans; 3301 Veterans Blvd., Suite 104, 834-8694, Metairie; 1401 West Esplanade, Suite 100, 468-3588, Kenner; 4700 Veterans Blvd., 888-9770, Metairie; 1814 N. Causeway Approach, Suite 1, (985) 951-7474, Mandeville; CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $

for their generous portions of seafood and large deli sandwiches. $

Café Equator 2920 Severn Ave., 888-

Café Negril 606 Frenchmen St., 944-4744,

4772, Metairie, CafeEquator.com. L, D daily. Very good Thai food across the street from Lakeside Mall. Offers a quiet and oftoverlooked dining option in a crowded part of town. $$

Café Freret 7329 Freret St., 861-7890, Uptown, CafeFreret.com. B, L, D Fri-Wed. Convenient location near Tulane and Loyola universities makes this a place for students (and dogs) to indulge in decadent breakfasts, casual lunches and tasty dinners – and their “A la Collar” menu. $$ Café Giovanni 117 Decatur St., 529-2154, Downtown, CafeGiovanni.com. D daily. Live opera singers three nights a week round out the atmosphere at this contemporary Italian dining destination. The menu offers a selection of Italian specialties tweaked with a Creole influence and their Belli Baci happy hour adds to the atmosphere. $$$$

Café Luna 802 Nashville Ave., 269-2444, Uptown. B, L daily. Charismatic coffee shop in a converted house offers a range of panini, caffeinated favorites and free WiFi. The front porch is a prime spot for people-watching along adjacent Magazine Street. $

Café Maspero 601 Decatur St., 523-6250, French Quarter. L, D daily. Tourists line up

Café Minh 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, MidCity, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri., D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring their fusion-y touch with Vietnamese cuisine to this corner location. French accents and a contemporary flair make this one of the more notable cross-cultural venues in town. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Maître D’ of the Year. $$ Marigny. D daily. This music club draws locals in with their lineup of live reggae and blues. Tacos and BBQ in back are a plus for late-night revelers. $

Café Nino 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 8659200, Carrollton. L, D daily. Nondescript exterior belies old-school Italian hideaway serving up red-sauce classics like lasagna, along with some of the more under-the-radar New York-style thin crust pizza in town. $$

Café Opera 541 Bourbon St., 648-2331, Inside Four Points by Sheraton, French Quarter. B, L daily, D Thu-Sat. Chef Philippe Andreani serves Creole and Continental classics on the site of the old French Opera House. Choices include crabmeat beignets with corn maque choux as well as fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade. Validated parking is offered for dine-in. Free valet parking. $$$

Cake Café 2440 Chartres St., 943-0010, Marigny, NolaCakes.com. B, L daily. The name may read cakes but this café, helmed by head baker Steve Himelfarb, offers a whole lot more, including fresh baked goods and a full breakfast menu along with sandwiches. A popular place to while away a slow New Orleans morning with a coffee

and a slice. $

Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 3092679, Uptown; 540 Chartres St., 533-6250, Downtown. B, L, D daily, until 1 a.m. SunThu and 3 a.m. Fri-Sat. The venerable diner has reopened following an extensive renovation and change in ownership (in 2006). Patrons can rest assured that its essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. The new downtown location has a liquor license and credit cards are now accepted. $

locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $

Chateau du Lac 2037 Metairie Road, 831-3773, Old Metairie, ChateauduLacBistro. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. A Provençal-inspired atmosphere and French wine round out the appeal. $$$$

Capdeville 520 Capdeville St., 371-5161, French Quarter, CapdevilleNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Capdeville is an upscale bar-bistro with a short but interesting menu of food that’s a mix of comfort and ambition. Burgers are on offer, but so are fried red beans and rice – a take on calas or Italian arancini. $$

Checkered Parrot 132 Royal St., 592-1270,

Carmo 527 Julia St., 875-4132, Warehouse

Chiba 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Carrollton,

District, CafeCarmo.com. L Mon-Sat., D TueSat. Caribbean-inspired fare offers a creative array of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free fare in a sleek location on Julia Street. One of the few places in the city where healthy dining is celebrated rather than accommodated. $$

chiba-nola.com. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant on Oak Street features an extensive list of special rolls, steamed buns and fusion-y fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Late night hours are a plus. $$$

Carmelo Ristorante 1901 Highway 190, (985) 624-4844, Mandeville, RistoranteCarmelo.com. L, D Wed-Fri, SunMon. Italian trattoria serves old-world classics. Private rooms available. $$

Casamento’s 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, Uptown, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L TueSat, D Thu-Sat. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$

CC’s Community Coffee House Multiple

French Quarter; 3629 Prytania St., Uptown; CheckeredParrot.com. B, L, D daily. The Checkered Parrot is an upscale sports bar with a large menu, featuring nachos, fajitas, wings in seven flavors, wraps and burgers and an outdoor patio. $$

Chophouse New Orleans 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, CBD, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

Clancy’s 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, Uptown, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CBD/Warehouse District, CochonRestaurant. com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link

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DINING GUIDE

and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this Warehouse District hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. New Orleans Magazine named Link Chef of the Year 2009. Reservations strongly recommended. $$

classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$

Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington

866-236, Uptown, CrepeCaterer.com. B, L, D daily. Open late. An extensive menu of tasty crêpes, both savory and sweet, make this a great spot for a quick bite for college students and locals. $

Ave., 899-8221, Uptown, CommandersPalace. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The Grande Dame in the Garden District is going strong under the auspices of chef Tory McPhail. The turtle soup might be the best in the city, and its weekend Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

Cooter Brown’s 509 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-9104, Uptown, CooterBrowns.com. L, D daily. Riverbend-area sports bar serves up the city’s largest selection of beers along with great bar food. The cheese fries are a rite of passage, and the Radiator’s Special poor boy makes for a great late-night meal. $

Copeland’s 701 Veterans Blvd., 831-3437, Metairie; 1001 S. Clearview Parkway, 6207800, Jefferson; 1319 West Esplanade Ave., 617-9146, Kenner; 1700 Lapalco Blvd., 364-1575, Harvey; 680 N. Highway 190, (985) 809-9659, Covington; 1337 Gause Blvd., (985) 643-0001, Slidell; CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

Copeland’s Cheesecake Bistro 4517 Veterans Blvd., 454-7620, Metairie; 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, Garden District; CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily. Dessert fans flock to this sweet-centric Copeland establishment which also offers extensive lunch and dinner menus. $$$

Coquette 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, Uptown, Coquette-Nola.com. Br Sun, L TueSat, D daily. A bistro located at the corner of Washington and Magazine streets. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael Stoltzfus (New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Chef 2009) and his partner Lillian Hubbard. $$$ Corky’s Bar-B-Q Restaurant 4243 Veterans Blvd., 887-5000, Metairie, CorkysBarBQ.com. L, D daily. Memphisbased barbecue chain offers good hickorysmoked ribs, pork and beef in a family setting with catering service available. $ Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St., 5227261, French Quarter, CourtOfTwoSisters. com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and

833-2722, Jefferson. L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s chef and owner Jack Leonardi. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $

BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily. Classic Creole dishes such as redfish on the halfshell and baked oysters are served with classic Brennan’s style at this French Quarter outpost. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. New Orleans Magazine’s 2011 Oyster Bar of the Year. $$$$

Crépes a la Carte 1039 Broadway St.,

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse 716

Crabby Jack’s 428 Jefferson Highway,

Crescent City Brewhouse 527 Decatur St., 522-0571, French Quarter, CrescentCityBrehouse.com. L, D daily. Contemporary brewpub features an eclectic menu complementing its freshly-brewed wares. Live jazz and good location make it a fun place to meet up. $$$

Crescent City Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, Mid-City, CrescentCitySteaks. com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D daily. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses, it’s a throwback in every sense of the term. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get at Crescent City. New Orleans Magazine’s Steakhouse of the Year 2009 and Honor Roll honoree 2007. $$$$

Criollo 214 Royal St., Hotel Monteleone, 681-4444, French Quarter, HotelMonteleone. com/Criollo. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$ The Crystal Room Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111, CBD/Warehouse District, LePavillon.com. B, D daily; L, MonFri. Franco-American cuisine with Louisiana influences is served in the environs of the Le Pavillon Hotel. The Southern-style breakfast features its decadent Bananas Foster Waffle “Le Pavillon.” $$$

Dakota 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 8923712, Covington, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$

The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, Uptown, TheDelachaise.com. L Fri-Sat, D daily. Elegant bar food fit for the wine connoisseur; kitchen open late. $$ Dick and Jenny’s 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, Uptown, DickAndJennys.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, French Quarter,

Iberville St., 522-2467, French Quarter, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood in a New Orleans setting with the usual Brennan’s family flair. $$$$$

Domenica The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, CBD, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Chef of the Year Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine in John Besh’s sophisticated new restaurant. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées, feature locally raised products, some from Besh’s Northshore farm. $$$$

Domilise’s 5240 Annunciation St., 8999126, Uptown. L, D Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $

Dong Phuong 14207 Chef Menteur Highway, 254-0296, N.O. East. L Wed-Mon. Vietnamese bakery and restaurant in the community of Versailles makes great banh mi sandwiches and interesting baked goods both savory and sweet. Unbeatable prices. $

Drago’s 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, Metairie; Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, CBD/Warehouse District; DragosRestaurant.com. L, D daily (Hilton), L, D Mon-Sat (Metairie). This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Raucous but good-natured atmosphere makes this a fun place to visit. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Dry Dock Cafe & Bar 133 Delaronde St., 361-8240, Algiers, TheDryDockCafe.com. Br Sun, L, D daily. Fancier daily specials have been added to the menu of this casual neighborhood seafood joint in historic Algiers Point near the ferry landing. Burgers, sandwiches and fried seafood are the staples. $$

El Gato Negro 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, French Quarter, B Sat-Sun, L. D daily; 300 Harrison Ave., 488-0107, Lakeview, L, D Tue-Sun; 3001 Ormond Blvd. (985) 307-0460, Destrehan, L, D Tue-Sun. ElGatoNegroNola.com. Popular spot near the Frenchmen Street clubs serves up authentic Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-

Stone Crab Season at Chophouse

Chophouse New Orleans, 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com

It is stone crab season from Oct. 15 to May 15, and Chophouse has a direct source for this fresh catch, which they serve cold with a homemade sauce. When Tulane University alums Barbara and Jerry Greenbaum wanted to open a restaurant in New Orleans, they wondered how they could stand out in a city already crowded with good ones. They decided that only by using the freshest, highest quality ingredients could they make a difference. This philosophy means that they only use USDA grade prime beef cuts, and in addition to shrimp, the steakhouse usually offers only two types of fish to keep it truly fresh. – M . c . 80

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muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$

Elizabeth’s 601 Gallier St., 944-9272, Bywater, ElizabethsRestaurantNola.com. B, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This eclectic local restaurant draws rave reviews for its Praline Bacon and distinctive Southerninspired brunch specials. $$$ Emeril’s 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, CBD/Warehouse District, Emerils.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$ Fat Hen Grocery 7457 St. Charles Ave., 266-2921, Riverbend, FatHenGrill.com. B, L, D Wed-Mon. Breakfast gets re-imagined and dressed up at this diner headed by Chef Shane Pritchett, formerly of Emeril’s Delmonico. The house special is the Womlette, an omelet baked on a waffle. $$

Feelings Cafe 2600 Chartres St., 945-2222, Faubourg Marigny, FeelingsCafe.com. D WedSun, Br Sun. Romantic ambiance and skillfully created dishes, such as veal d’aunoy, make dining here on the patio a memorable experience. A piano bar on Fridays adds to the atmosphere. Vegan menu offered. $$$$ Fellini’s Café 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 4882155, Mid-City, FellinisNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. With décor inspired by its namesake Italian filmmaker, this casual indoor/outdoor spot serves large portions of reasonablypriced Mediterranean specialties such as pizza, pastas and hummus. $ Fiesta Latina 1924 Airline Drive, 468-2384, Kenner, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D Tue-Sun. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Latin Restaurant of the Year. $$ Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, Mid-City, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house baked duck. It is a popular choice for families as well. $$

Flaming Torch 737 Octavia St., 895-0900, Uptown, FlamingTorchNola.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. French classics including a tasty onion soup make this a nice place for a slightly upscale lunch while shopping along Magazine Street. $$

Frank’s 933 Decatur St., 525-1602, French Quarter, FranksRestaurantNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Locally inspired Italian sandwiches such as muffulettas and Genoa salami poor

boys are served here in the heart of the French Quarter. $$$

Galatoire’s 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, French Quarter, Galatoires.com. L, D TueSun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, French Quarter. L Friday, D daily. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole Grande Dame offers hand-crafted cocktails to accompany classic steakhouse fare as well as inspired dishes like the Gouté 33 – horseradish-crusted bone marrow and deviled eggs with crab ravigote and smoked trout. Reservations are accepted. $$$ Galley Seafood 2535 Metairie Road, 8320955, Metairie. L, D Tue-Sat. A great local place for seafood, both fried and boiled. Famous for its softshell crab poor boy, a Jazz Fest favorite. $$

Gautreau’s 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, Uptown, GautreausRestaurant.com. D, Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations in a clubby setting nested deep within a residential neighborhood. New Orleans Magazine named Sue Zemanick Chef of the Year 2008. $$$$$ Gott Gourmet Café 3100 Magazine St., 373-6579, Uptown, GottGourmetCafe.com. B Sat-Sun, L, Tue-Sun, D Tue-Fri. Upscalecasual restaurant serves a variety of specialty sandwiches, salads and wraps, like the Chicago-style hot dog and the St. Paddy’s Day Massacre – Chef Gotter’s take on the Rueben. $$

Gracious Bakery + Café 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, MidCity, GraciousBakery.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Boutique bakery in the ground floor of the new Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options are available as well. $

The Green Goddess 307 Exchange Alley, 301-3347, French Quarter, GreenGoddessNola.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Located in a tiny space, the Green Goddess is one of the most imaginative restaurants in New Orleans. The menu is constantly changing, and chef Paul Artigues always has ample vegetarian options. Combine all of that with a fantastic selection of drinks, wine and beer, and it’s the total (albeit small) package. $$ The Grill Room Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-1994, CBD/Warehouse District, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Jazz Brunch on Sunday with live music. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. $$$$$

GW Fins 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), French Quarter, GWFins.com. D daily. To ensure the best possible flavors at GW Fins, owners Gary Wollerman and New Orleans Magazine’s 2005 and 2001 Chef of the Year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak by flying in products from around the globe. That commitment to freshness and quest for unique variety are two of the reasons why the menu is printed daily. $$$$$

Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, CBD/Warehouse District, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling Chef Donald Link’s (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year

2009) menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

Horinoya 920 Poydras St., 561-8914, CBD/ Warehouse District. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Excellent Japanese dining in an understated and oft-overlooked location. The chu-toro is delicious and the selection of authentic Japanese appetizers is the best in the city. $$$ Hoshun Restaurant 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, Garden District, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Hoshun offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Their five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good as well. $$ House of Blues 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, French Quarter, HouseOfBlues.com. L, D daily. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Surprisingly good menu makes this a complement to the music in the main room. Patio seating is available as well. $$

to taste a lot for not much money. $$$$

Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 5298811, French Quarter. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

Iris 321 N. Peters St., 299-3944, French Quarter, IrisNewOrleans.com. L Fri, D Mon, Wed-Sat. This inviting bistro offers sophisticated fare in a charming setting. The veal cheek ravioli is a winner. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2006. $$$$ Jack Dempsey’s 738 Poland Ave., 9439914, Bywater, JackDempseysLLC.com. L Tue-Sat, D Wed-Sat. Local favorite nestled deep in the heart of the Bywater is known for its stuffed flounder and baked macaroni served in generous portions. $$$

Jacques-Imo’s Cafe 8324 Oak St., 8610886, Uptown, JacquesImosCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere are the cornerstones of this Oak Street institution. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$

Il Posto Café 4607 Dryades St., 895-2620, Uptown, ilPostoCafe-Nola.com. B, L, D Tue-Sat, B, L Sun. Italian café specializes in pressed panini, like their Milano, featuring sopressata, Fontina, tomatoes and balsamic on ciabatta. Soups, imported coffee and H&H bagels make this a comfortable neighborhood spot to relax with the morning paper. $

D Tue-Sun. Intimate and exotic bistro serving Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The Grilled Merguez is a Jazz Fest favorite and vegetarian options are offered. $$

Impastato’s 3400 16th St., 455-1545, Metairie, Impastatos.com. D Tue-Sat. Bustling Italian restaurant on the edge of Fat City serves homemade pasta in a convivial atmosphere. Chef/Owner Joe Impastato greets guests warmly and treats them like family. The prix fixe options are a good way

Jeff’s Creole Grille 5241 Veterans Blvd., 889-7992, Metairie, JeffsCreoleGrille.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This quaint, upscale restaurant offers a variety of classic New Orleans cuisine, fresh fish and homemade soups and salads with early bird and daily chef specials. $$

Jamila’s Mediterranean Tunisian Cuisine 7808 Maple St., 866-4366, Uptown.

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T HE M E N U Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Café 1104 Decatur St., 592-2565, French Quarter, MargaritavilleNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Parrotheads and other music lovers flock to Jimmy’s outpost along the more local-friendly stretch of Decatur. Strong bar menu and stronger drinks keep them coming back. $$

Joey K’s 3001 Magazine St., 891-0997, Uptown, JoeyKsRestaurant.com. L, D MonSat. A true neighborhood New Orleans restaurant with daily lunch plates keeps it real; red beans and rice are classic. $ The Joint 701 Mazant St., 949-3232, Bywater, AlwaysSmokin.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Some of the city’s best barbecue can be had at this locally owned and operated favorite in Bywater. $ Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, Uptown; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, Mid-City. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

Jung’s Golden Dragon 3009 Magazine St., Uptown, JungsGoldenDragon2.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes and dumplings. This is one of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Chinese Restaurant of the Year. $

Kosher Cajun New York Deli and Grocery 3519 Severn Ave., 888-2010,

DINING GUIDE 486-4887, Lakeview, BestNewOrleansBurger. com. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game here at this restaurant which shares a pedigree with Snug Harbor and Port of Call. Rounded out with a loaded baked potato, their half-pound patties are sure to please. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $

La Macarena Pupuseria & Latin Cafe

569-8997, Mid-City. B, L daily, D Thu-Sat. Spot local and national politicos dining at this favored Creole soul restaurant known for homey classics like fried chicken and Trout Baquet. $

La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine St.,

Lilette 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636,

891-3377, Uptown, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L Tue-Sat, D daily. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere quickly made this place an Uptown darling. The menu is heavily Frenchinspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$

La Provence 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, Lacombe, LaProvenceRestaurant. com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. John Besh (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) upholds time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards his guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property, an elegant French colonial stucco house. $$$$$

La Thai Uptown 4938 Prytania St., 8998886, Uptown, LaThaiUptown.com. L, D TueSun. Uptown outpost of the Chauvin family’s ingredient-driven Thai-Cajun fusion cuisine. The summer rolls are good as is the tom kar gai soup. Lunch specials are a good deal and vegetarian dishes are offered as well. $$

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres

Latil’s Landing Houmas House Plantation,

Kyoto 4920 Prytania St., 891-3644, Uptown, KyotoNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood sushi restaurant where the regulars order off-the-menu rolls. $$

La Boca 857 Fulton St., 525-8205, Warehouse District, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2006 & 2010 Steakhouse of the Year. $$$ Lakeview Harbor 911 Harrison Ave.,

Liborio’s Cuban Restaurant 321 Magazine St., 581-9680, CBD/Warehouse District, LiborioCuban.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Authentic Cuban favorites such as Ropa Vieja and pressed Cuban sandwiches along with great specials make this a popular lunch choice. $$$

8120 Hampson St., 862-5252, Uptown. L, D Mon-Fri, Br, L, D Sat & Sun. This cash-only and BYOB restaurant has recently overhauled their menu, now including a large selection of vegan and vegetarian items, as well as a tapas menu. $$

Metairie, KosherCajun.com. L Mon-Fri & Sun, D Mon-Thu. Great kosher meals and complete kosher grocery in the rear make this Metairie eatery a unique destination. The matzo ball soup is a winner and catering is available for parties of any size. $ St., 596-2930, French Quarter, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

served in a sophisticated atmosphere. A local mother-daughter tradition. $$

40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, Darrow, HoumasHouse.com. L Sun, D WedSun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantation-style cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$

Le Meritage 1001 Toulouse St., 522-8800, French Quarter, LeMeritageRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. This restaurant blends fine wines with Southern-flavored cuisine for a memorable fine-dining experience in a casual environment. Chef Michael Farrell’s well-rounded menu features suggested wine and food pairings, along with full or half servings both by the glass and by the plate. Complimentary valet parking. $$$

Le Salon Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 596-4773, CBD/Warehouse District. Afternoon Tea, Thu-Fri, seating at 2 p.m., Sat-Sun, seating at 11 a.m. & 2 p.m. Formal afternoon tea with harpist or string quartet

Lil’ Dizzy’s Café 1500 Esplanade Ave.,

Uptown, LiletteRestaurant.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro on Magazine Street. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

Lola’s 3312 Esplanade Ave., 488-6946, Mid-City. D daily. Garlicky Spanish dishes and great paella make this artsy Faubourg St. John boîte a hipster destination. $$$

Lüke 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, CBD, LukeNewOrleans.com. Br Sat-Sun, B, L, D daily. John Besh (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) and executive chef Matt Regan characterize the cuisine “Alsace meets New Orleans in an authentic brasserie setting.” Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made patés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2007 and 2012 Raw Bar of the Year. $$$

Mahony’s 3454 Magazine St., 899-3374, Uptown, MahonysPoBoys.com. L, D MonSat. Along with the usual poor boys, this sandwich shop serves up a Grilled Shrimp and Fried Green Tomato version dressed with remoulade sauce. Sandwich offerings are augmented by a full bar. $ Mandina’s 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MidCity, MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Quintessential New Orleans neighborhood institution reopened following an extensive renovation. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the same food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year. $$

Manning’s 519 Fulton St., 593-8118, Warehouse District. L, D daily. Born of a partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up in terms of comfort and quality. With a menu that draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South, traditional dishes get punched

up with inspired but accessible twists in surroundings accented by both memorabilia and local art. $$$

Maple Street Café 7623 Maple St., 3149003, Uptown. L, D daily. Casual dinner spot serving Mediterranean-inspired pastas and Italian-style entrées, along with heartier fare such as duck and filet mignon. $$

The Marigny Brasserie 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, Faubourg Marigny, MarignyBrasserie.com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the Wedge of Lettuce salad and innovative cocktails like the Cucumber Cosmo. $$$

Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmeer Ave., 8967300, Metairie, MartinWine.com. Br Sun, L daily, D Mon-Fri. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, towering burgers, hearty soups, salads and giant, delistyle sandwiches. $ Mat & Naddie’s 937 Leonidas St., 8619600, Uptown, MatAndNaddies.com. D MonTue, Thu-Sat. Cozy converted house along River Road serves up creative and eclectic regionally-inspired fare. Crab cakes with cucumber slaw makes for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$

Maximo’s Italian Grill 1117 Decatur St., 586-8883, French Quarter. MaximosGrill. com. D Daily. Italian destination on Decatur Street features a sprawling menu including housemade salumi and antipasti as well as old school classics like Veal Osso Bucco. Private dining is offered for special events. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Continental Italian Restaurant of the Year. $$$

Middendorf’s Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 386-6666, Akers, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it transitioned to its next generation of owners when Horst Pfeifer purchased it in 2007. More than a restaurant, this is a Sunday Drive tradition. $$ MiLa 817 Common St., 412-2580, French Quarter, MiLaNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Latest offering from husbandand-wife chefs Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing focuses on the fusion of the cuisines of Miss. and La. Signature dishes include Oysters Rockefeller “Deconstructed” and New Orleans-style barbecue lobster. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2008. $$$$ Mona’s Café 504 Frenchmen St., 485-6583, Marigny; 4126 Magazine St., 894-9800, Uptown; 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 861-8174,

The Court of Two Sisters NOW Open for Weddings The Court of Two Sisters, 613 Royal St., 522-7261, TheCourtOfTwoSisters.com

New Orleans brides often debate whether to have their reception somewhere historic or somewhere new and surprising. Now they can have the best of both worlds. The Court of Two Sisters, an iconic spot located in the French Quarter, is now available for wedding receptions, rehearsal dinners, bridal showers and bachelorette parties. With the largest courtyard in the French Quarter and three very elegant private rooms, parties large and small can find the right space. Couples can pick favorites from the Creole menu or try new items such as seafood stuffed fillet of trout, fried oysters Rockefeller and blackened pork tenderloin medallions. – M . c . 82

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Uptown; 3901 Banks St., 482-7743, Mid-City. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Middle Eastern Restaurant of the Year. $

Mondo 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633, Lakeview, MondoNewOrleans.com. Br Sun, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Chef of the Year Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine isn’t far from her home in Lakeview. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$

Morton’s, The Steakhouse The Shops at Canal Place, 365 Canal St., 566-0221, French Quarter, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Quintessential Chicago steakhouse serves up top-quality slabs of meat along with jumbo seafood. Clubhouse atmosphere makes this chophouse a favorite of Saints players and businessmen alike. $$$$$

Mosca’s 4137 Highway 90 West, 436-9942, Avondale. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution near the Huey Long Bridge dishes out massive portions of great food family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Honor Roll winner. Note: Cash Only. $$$

Mother’s 401 Poydras St., 436-8940, CBD/ Warehouse District, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian

Restaurant 1001 Live Oak St., 8380022, Bucktown; 910 W. Esplanade Ave., Ste. A, 463-3030, Kenner. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Muriel’s Jackson Square 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, French Quarter, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other New Orleans classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$

Naked Pizza 6307 S. Miro St., 8650244, Uptown (takeout & delivery only), NakedPizza.biz. L, D daily. Pizza place with a focus on fresh ingredients and a healthy crust. The Mediterranean pie is a good choice. $

Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., 5249752, French Quarter, NapoleonHouse.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites: gumbo, jambalaya, muffulettas and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup. $$

Nine Roses 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, Gretna, NineRosesResturant.com. L, D SunTue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. Great for families. $$ NOLA 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, French Quarter, Emerils.com. L Thu-Sun, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plank-roasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$

Nuvolari’s 246 Girod St., (985) 6265619, Mandeville, Nuvolaris.com. D daily.

Dark woods and soft lighting highlight this Northshore Creole Continental-Italian fusion restaurant famous for crabmeat ravioli, veal dishes, seafood specialties and delectable desserts. $$$$

One Restaurant and Lounge 8132 Hampson St., 301-9061, Uptown, OrleansGrapevine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Black seating and herbaceous sage-colored walls form a dining room where every seat is a view into the open kitchen and the chefs creating contemporary comfort food on a seasonally changing menu. The bar is also known for cranking out clever cocktails. New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Restaurant 2005. $$$$

Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, French Quarter, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this beautifully renovated French Quarter bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on New Orleans cuisine adds to the appeal. $$$

Palace Café 605 Canal St., 523-1661, CBD/ Warehouse District, PalaceCafe.com. L MonSat, D daily, Br Sun. Dickie Brennan-owned brasserie with French-style sidewalk seating and house-created specialties of Chef Darrin Nesbit at lunch, dinner and Jazz Brunch. Favorites here include crabmeat cheesecake, turtle soup, the Werlein salad with fried Louisiana oysters and pork ”debris” studded Palace Potato Pie. $$$$$

Parkway Bakery and Tavern 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, Mid-City, ParkwayBakeryAndTavernNola.com. L, D daily, closed Tue. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, Parkway stakes a claim to some of the best

sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $

Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, Uptown. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage New Orleans neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the house-creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$ Patois 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, Uptown, PatoisNola.com. Br Sun, L Fri, D Wed-Sat. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of Chef Aaron Burgau (New Orleans Magazine’s Best New Chef 2009). Reservations recommended. $$$ Paul’s Café 100 Pine St., (985) 386-9581, Ponchatoula, PaulsCafe.net. B, L daily. Best known for its strawberry daiquiris, Paul’s also cooks up egg breakfasts and lunches including all manner of sandwiches and poor boys. $

The Pelican Club 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, French Quarter, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Tucked into a French Quarter alley, Pelican Club serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$ PJ’s Coffee Multiple locations throughout Greater New Orleans, PJsCoffee.com. The city’s first iced-coffee spot that pioneered the coffee house experience in New Orleans and introduced us all to velvet ices, drinkable granitas and locally made Ronald Reginald vanilla. A wide assortment of pastries and bagels are offered as well as juices and

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T HE M EN U fresh ground or whole bean coffees. $

Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, French Quarter, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/ restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

Praline Connection 542 Frenchmen St., 943-3934, Faubourg Marigny, PralineConnection.com. L, D daily. Downhome dishes of smothered pork chops, greens, beans and cornbread are on the menu at this homey Creole soul restaurant. $$

Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, French Quarter, RedFishGrill.com. L, D Mon-Thu & Sun. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with Big Easy favorites such as BBQ oysters, blackened redfish and double chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$

Ralph’s On The Park 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, Mid-City, RalphsOnThePark. com. Br Sun, L Wed-Fri, D daily. A modern interior, a view of City Park’s moss-draped oaks and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup and BBQ Gulf shrimp. The bar gets special notice for cocktails. $$$$

The Red Maple 1036 Lafayette St., 3670935, Gretna, TheRedMaple.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sat. This West Bank institution since 1963 is known for its seafood, steaks, wine list and some of the best bread pudding around. $$$$

Reginelli’s Pizzeria 741 State St., 8991414, Uptown; 3244 Magazine St., 895-7272, Uptown; 5608 Citrus Blvd., 818-0111, Harahan; 817 W. Esplanade Ave., 7126868, Kenner; 874 Harrison Ave, 488-0133, Lakeview; Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are on tap at locations all over town. $$

Arnaud’s Remoulade 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, French Quarter, Remoulade. com. L, D daily. Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of Famous Shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$

René Bistrot 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2350, CBD/Warehouse District, LaCoteBrasserie.com. Br Sun, L Mon-Fri, D daily. Fresh local seafood, international ingredients and a contemporary atmosphere fill the room at this hotel restaurant near the Convention Center. $$$

Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, CBD/Warehouse District, RestaurantAugust.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef (New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2007) John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in a historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$

R’evolution 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, French Quarter, RevolutionNola.com. L, D Mon-Fri, Br, D Sun, open late Fri-Sat. R’evolution is the partnership between chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto. Located in the Royal Sonesta Hotel, it’s an opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef 84

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DINING GUIDE Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Restaurant of the Year. $$$$$

Ristorante Da Piero 401 Williams Blvd., 469-8585, Kenner, RistoranteDaPiero.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Homemade pastas and an emphasis on Northern Italian cuisine make this cozy spot in Kenner’s Rivertown a romantic destination. $

their frozen Café Glace and a wide selection of coffees and teas, as well as pastries, daily specials and hearty breakfasts. $

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, Metairie. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun; 525 Fulton St. in Harrah’s Hotel, 587-7099, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun; RuthsChris. com. Filet Mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Rib Room Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, French Quarter, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. Br Sat-Sun, L, D daily. Old World elegance, high ceilings and views of Royal Street, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on weekends, a Champagne Brunch. $$$

Sake Café 2830 Magazine St., 894-0033,

Riccobono’s Panola Street Café 7801

901 Veterans Blvd., 835-0916, Metairie, SammysPoBoys.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily. Bucktown transplant offers a seafood-centric menu rounded out with wraps, kid meals and catering options all at a reasonable price. $

Panola St., 314-1810, Garden District. B, L daily. This breakfast spot at the corner of Burdette and Panola streets has been waking up bleary college students for years. The omelets are good, as are the Belgian waffles. Offers daily specials as well. $

Rio Mar 800 S. Peters St., 525-3474, CBD/ Warehouse District, RioMarSeafood.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Seafood-centric Warehouse District destination focuses on Latin American and Spanish cuisines. Try the bacalaitos and the escabeche. The tapas lunch is a great way to try a little of everything. Save room for the Tres Leches, a favorite dessert. New Orleans Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2006. $$$$

Ristorante Filippo 1917 Ridgelake Drive, 835-4008, Metairie. L, D Tue-Sat. CreoleItalian destination serves up southern Italian specialties bathed in red sauces and cheese alongside New Orleans classics like pan-fried Gulf fish and plump shellfish. $$$ River 127 Westin New Orleans Canal Place, 100 Rue Iberville, 533-5082, French Quarter. B, L, D daily. Continental cuisine with Louisiana flare in a dining room that overlooks the Mississippi River and French Quarter. $$$$

Rivershack Tavern 3449 River Road, 8344938, Jefferson, TheRivershackTavern.com. L, D daily. Home of the Tacky Ashtray, this popular bar alongside the Mississippi levee offers surprisingly wide-ranging menu featuring seafood, poor boys and deli-style sandwiches along with live music. Open late. $

Rock-N-Sake 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, CBD/Warehouse District, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun. Enjoy fresh sushi along with contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in this club-like setting in the Warehouse District. Open until midnight on Fri. and Sat., this makes for a unique late-night destination. $$$

Root 200 Julia St., 252-9480, CBD, RootNola.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. Try the Korean fried chicken wings and the Cohiba-smoked scallops crusted with chorizo. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Maître D’ of the Year. $$$$ Royal Blend Coffee and Tea House 621 Royal St., 523-2716, French Quarter; 204 Metairie Road, 835-7779, Metairie; RoyalBlendCoffee.com. B, L daily. Known for

Uptown, SakeCafeUptown.com. L, D daily. Creative and traditional Japanese food in an ultramodern décor. Sushi and sashimi boats, wild rolls filled with the usual and not-sousual suspects and a nice bar with a number of sakes from which to choose. $$$

Sammy’s Po-Boys and Catering

Satsuma Café 3218 Dauphine St., 3045962, Bywater; 7901 Maple St., 309-5557, Uptown; SatsumaCafe.com. B, L daily (until 7 p.m.). Two locations offer healthy, inspired breakfast and lunch fare, along with freshly squeezed juices. $

Semolina 4436 Veterans Blvd., Suite 37, Metairie, 454-7930, Semolina.com. L, D daily. This casual, contemporary pasta restaurant takes a bold approach to cooking Italian food, emphasizing flavors, texture and color; many of the dishes feature a signature Louisiana twist, such as the Muffuletta Pasta and Pasta Jambalaya. Popular entrées include Grilled Chicken Alfredo, Chicken Marsala and Veal Parmesan. $$

Serendipity 3700 Orleans Ave. 407-0818, Mid-City, SerendipityNola.com. D daily. Chef Chris DeBarr brings his eclectic and far-ranging style of cuisine and classically inspired cocktails to an outpost in American Can. A late-night option as well. $$

Slice 1513 St. Charles Ave., 525-7437, Uptown; 5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; SlicePizzeria.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Order up slices or whole pizza pies done in several styles (thin- and thick-crust) as well as pastas, seafood, paninis and salads. $

Slim Goodies Diner 3322 Magazine St., 891-EGGS (3447). B, L daily. This diner offers up an exhaustive menu heavily influenced by local cuisine. Try the Creole Slammer, a breakfast platter rounded out with Crawfish Étouffée. The laid-back vibe is best enjoyed on the patio out back. $

SoBou 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, French Quarter, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon,” the latest offering from the Commander’s Restaurant Family. Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass, diners will find everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on the accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$ Snug Harbor 626 Frenchman St., 9490696, Faubourg Marigny, SnugJazz.com. D daily. The city’s premier jazz club serves cocktails and a dining menu loaded with steaks, seafood and meaty burgers served with loaded baked potatoes. $$$$

Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., 527-0771, Uptown, SteinsDeli.net. B, L, D Tue-Sun. New York meets New Orleans. The Reuben and Rachel sandwiches are the real deal and the half-sours and pickled tomatoes complete the deli experience. $

Stella! 1032 Chartres St., 587-0091, French Quarter, RestaurantStella.com. D daily. Global cuisine with a Louisiana blush by native son chef Scott Boswell. Dishes are always inventive and flavorful from appetizer to dessert. The wine list is bold and the service “stellar.” Boswell was New Orleans Magazine’s 2005 Chef of the Year. $$$$$ Sun Ray Grill 619 Pink St., 837-0055, Old Metairie; 1051 Annunciation St., 566-0021, CBD/Warehouse District; 2600 Belle Chasse Highway, 391-0053, Gretna; SunRayGrill. com. L, D daily, Br Sun (at Annunciation). This local chain offers a globally influenced menu with burgers, steaks, sesame crusted tuna, sandwiches and salads. $$

Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., 524-3828, Coliseum Square; 4807 Magazine St., 895-5757, Uptown; SurreysCafeAndJuiceBar.com. B, L daily. Laid-back café focuses on breakfast and brunch dishes to accompany freshly squeezed juice offerings. Health-food lovers will like it here, along with fans of favorites such as peanut butter and banana pancakes. Note: Cash only. $$

Tan Dinh 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008, Gretna. B, L, D Wed-Mon. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Vietnamese Restaurant of the Year. $$ Theo’s Pizza 4218 Magazine St., 8948554, Uptown; 4024 Canal, 302-1133, MidCity; 1212 S. Clearview Parkway, 733-3803, Elmwood TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The thin, cracker-crisp crust pizzas are complemented by the broad assortment of toppings which include a lot of local ingredients. Cheap prices make this an economical and delicious choice. $$ Three Muses 536 Frenchmen St., 2524801, Marigny, TheThreeMuses.com. D Sun-Mon, Wed, Fri-Sat. Three Muses is a bar-restaurant serving the eclectic cuisine of chef Daniel Esses. The menu changes, but expect Esses’ take on Italian, Spanish, North African and Korean cooking. Local bands provide music on a regular basis. $ Tommy’s Cuisine 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, CBD/Warehouse District, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake Oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$

Tony Angello’s 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive, 488-0888. Lakeview. D Tue-Sat. CreoleItalian favorite serves up fare in the completely restored Lakeview location. Ask Tony to “Feed Me” if you want a real multi-course dining experience. New Orleans Magazine’s 2010 Traditional New Orleans Italian Restaurant of the Year. $$$$ Tout de Suite Cafe 347 Verret St., 3622264, Algiers. B, L, D daily. Neighborhood coffeehouse/café in historic Algiers Point offers a light menu of soups, salads and sandwiches for a quick meal or carryout. $$ Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar 2604

Mid-City, VeneziaNewOrleans.com. L Wed-Fri & Sun, D Wed-Sun. Casual neighborhood Italian destination known for its thin-crust pizzas. Good lunch specials make this a popular choice as well. $$

restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées, drawing from a wide range of worldly influences. Zea’s also offers catering services. $$$

Trey Yuen 600 N. Causeway Blvd., (985) 626-4476, Mandeville, TreyYuen.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. Chinese cuisine meets with local seafood in dishes like their Szechuan Spicy Alligator and Tong Cho Crawfish; private rooms available. $$

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, L TueFri, D Mon-Sat; 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, Uptown. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun; VicentsItalianCuisine.com. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Zoë Restaurant W New Orleans Hotel, 333 Poydras St., 2nd Floor, 207-5018, ZoeNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Completely redone in both décor and cuisine, each section features a separate menu by executive chef Chris Brown. $$$

Tujague’s 823 Decatur St., 525-8676,

Wolfe’s in the Warehouse 859

French Quarter, TujaguesRestaurant.com. D daily. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique Beef Brisket with Creole Sauce. New Orleans Magazine’s Honor Roll honoree 2008. $$$$$

Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882, CBD/ Warehouse District. B, L, D daily. Chef Tom Wolfe brings his refined cuisine to the booming Fulton Street corridor. His Smoked Kobe Short Ribs are a good choice. $$$

Magazine St., 897-5413, TraeysNola.com, Uptown. L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down. Also a great location to watch “the game.” $

Upperline 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Uptown, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented chef Dave Bridges make for a winning combination at this nationally heralded Uptown favorite, New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Honor Roll winner. The oft-copied Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Remoulade originated here. $$$$

Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, Metairie. D Mon-Sat. Innovative establishment offers fresh seafood, grilled meats and vegetarian dishes in a chic environment. Daily chef specials showcase unique ingredients and make this place a popular destination for dates as well as groups of friends. $$

Venezia 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 488-7991,

Ye Olde College Inn 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, Uptown, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. The institution moved next door into brand-new digs but serves up the same classic fare, albeit with a few new upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$

Yuki Izakaya 525 Frenchmen St., 9431122, Marigny. D daily. Authentic Japanese Izakaya serves small plates to late-night crowds at this unique destination. Try the Hokke Fish or the Agedashi Tofu. An excellent sake menu rounds out the appeal, as does the sexy, club-like ambiance. $ Zea’s Rotisserie and Bar 1525 St. Charles Ave., Lower Garden District, 520-8100; 1655 Hickory Ave, Harahan, 738-0799; 4450 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 780-9090; 1325 West Esplanade, Kenner, 468-7733; 1121 Manhattan Blvd., Harvey, 361-8293; 110 Lake Drive, Covington, (985) 327-0520, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. This popular

SPECIALTY FOODS Antoine’s Annex 513 Royal St., 525-8045, French Quarter, Antoines.com/AntoinesAnnex. Open daily. Around the corner from the oldest continuously operated restaurant in the country, Antoine’s Annex serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. They also deliver.

Bee Sweet Cupcakes 5706 Magazine St., 891-8333, Uptown, BeeSweetCupcakes.net. Open Mon-Sat. Tiny shop sells its namesake treats with a New Orleans twist. Try the Bananas Foster or the Pralines and Cream flavors. Daily specials are offered, as well as catering orders for weddings and parties. Bittersweet Confections 725 Magazine St., 523-2626, Warehouse District, BittersweetConfections.com. Open MonSat. Freshly baked cookies, cupcakes and specialty cakes. Serving handmade chocolate truffles, fudge, caramels, gelato, ice coffee, chocolate-dipped strawberries and freshly squeezed lemonade. Children’s birthday parties, chocolate tasting parties, custom chocolates and truffle party bar. Call for details.

Blue Dot Donuts 4301 Canal St., 2184866, Mid-City, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L

daily. Heard the one about the cops that opened a donut shop? This is no joke. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly. New Orleans Magazine’s 2012 Doughnut Shop of the Year.

Blue Frog Chocolates 5707 Magazine St., 269-5707, Uptown, BlueFrogChocolate.com. Open daily. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this boutique a great place for gifts. Calcasieu 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, Warehouse District, CalcasieuRooms.com. Located in the second floor of a renovated warehouse, above Cochon and Cochon Butcher, is a place to host gatherings both large and small. Catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

Magic Seasonings Mail Order (800) 4572857. Offers chef Paul Prudhomme’s famous cookbooks, smoked meats, videos, seasonings and more. Online shopping available at shop. ChefPaul.com/Seasonings. St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, Uptown, StJamesCheese.com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday.

Sucré 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311; 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277; ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this new dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

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OCTOBER 2013

FIFTY

The Kennedy Assassination

YEARS LATER Whether it was a lone gunman or a conspiracy, New Orleans had footprints. by Michael L. Kurtz

In mid-April1963,

only seven months before the assassination of President John F. Kennedy, Lee Harvey Oswald arrived in New Orleans. After staying briefly with relatives, he got a job at the Reily Coffee Company, the makers of Luzianne coffee, and he rented an apartment at 4907 Magazine St. in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Uptown section. During his stay in the city in the next five months, Oswald would

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The Warren Commission Report devoted much attention to Oswald’s well-publicized distribution of pro-Castro “Hands Off Cuba” leaflets on Canal Street.

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OCTOBER 2013

of 17, he joined the Marine Corps, where he served for more than two and a half years. After leaving the Marines, he travelled to Fort Worth, then to New Orleans, where he caught a Lykes freighter bound for Europe. In October ’59, Lee defected to the Soviet Union, where he would spend the next two and a half years. In April ’62, with funds provided by the U.S. State Department, he returned to the United States, bringing with him his Russian wife, Marina Prushakova, and their daughter, June. For the next year, Lee and Marina lived in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, before his move back to New Orleans. No one knows the reason for Lee’s decision to move to New Orleans in April 1963. Although his aunt, Lillian Claverie Murrett, and uncle, Charles “Dutz” Murrett, lived there, his mother and brother lived in Fort Worth. The Warren Commission, appointed by President Lyndon Johnson to investigate the assassination of President Kennedy, tread very lightly over the minefield of espionage and suspicion that encompassed Oswald’s five months in the Crescent City in the spring and summer of ’63. Eager to attribute a motive to Oswald’s alleged killing of Kennedy, the commission focused exclusively on Oswald’s public espousal of socialist, communist and Marxian ideology. In its Report, the Warren Commission mentioned Oswald’s appearances on local radio and television programs, in which he proclaimed himself a supporter of the USSR in the Cold War. It also discussed Oswald’s fight on Canal Street with Carlos Bringuier, a prominent anti-Castro Cuban exile, and it devoted much attention to Oswald’s well-publicized distribution of proCastro leaflets calling on the United States to keep “Hands Off Cuba.” Finally, the commission noted Oswald’s formation of the New Orleans chapter of the pro-Castro Fair Play for Cuba Committee. Even though Allen Dulles, the former Director of the CIA, was a member of the Warren Commission and knew of highly secret intelligence activities emanating from New Orleans, the Warren Report gave these activities no attention.

A P / W arren C ommission P H O T O G R A P H , F A R L E F T

engage in activities and make personal contacts that remain the topics of much discussion a half-century later. While it’s still being debated whether the assassination resulted from the act of a deranged lone gunman or from a conspiracy, and whether Cubans, mobsters, renegade CIA agents or influential members of the industrial-military establishment masterminded the killing of the president, everyone agrees that the five months that Oswald spent in New Orleans during the spring and summer of ’63 played a critical role in the assassination. Oswald’s ties to New Orleans ran deep. He was born there in October 1939. Lee’s father, Robert, died two months before he was born, leaving his mother, Marguerite Claverie Oswald, to raise Lee, his older brother, Robert, and his older half-brother, John Pic, by herself. During Lee’s early childhood, Marguerite lived in several homes on Alvar, Pauline, Bartholomew and Congress streets in the Upper 9th Ward. When Lee was 6, she lived briefly in Covington, where Lee first attended school. Marguerite moved to the Dallas-Fort Worth area in ’46, where Lee would live for the next six years. In ’52 she moved to New York, then in ’54 back to New Orleans, where she lived on Exchange Place in the French Quarter. Lee attended Beauregard Junior High and Warren Easton High School for one year each. As soon as Lee reached the age

Lee Harvey Oswald, above left, projected a public image of sympathy for communism in Cuba and the Soviet Union, distributing pro-Castro leaflets, left. Beneath the surface Oswald associated with extreme right-wing elements taking actions to overthrow the regime of Fidel Castro, one of whom was David Ferrie, above right. District Attorney Jim Garrison subpoenaed the famous Zapruder film making it the first time it was seen in public. The film of the assassination showed Kennedy’s head moving violently leftward and backward after being struck.

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FRANK METHE/CLARION HERALD PHOTOGRAPH

However, Oswald’s death at the hands of Jack Ruby didn’t eradicate his connections to New Orleans. Three years after the 1964 publication of the Warren Report, the district attorney of Orleans Parish, Jim Garrison, would startle the nation by announcing (after the publication of a StatesItem news article by Rosemary James and Jack Wardlaw), that his office was conducting an investigation into the Kennedy assassination. Garrison further stated that the assassination resulted from a conspiracy hatched in New Orleans in the summer of ’63, and that Lee Harvey Oswald projected a public image of sympathy for communism in Cuba and the Soviet Union, but beneath the surface associated with extreme right-wing elements taking actions to overthrow the regime of Fidel Castro. By early March ’67, the District Attorney’s office had arrested Clay L. Shaw and charged him with conspiracy to commit the murder of John F. Kennedy. A native of Kentwood, Shaw was a prominent member of the New Orleans business and civic community. He had served as director of the International Trade Mart and played a prominent role in the ’60s movement to revitalize the French Quarter. Another individual that Garrison intended to charge with conspiracy to kill the president was discovered dead in his Louisiana Avenue Parkway apartment by investigators from the DA’s office. He was David William Ferrie, a 45-year-old eccentric. Like Garrison, a native of the Midwest, Ferrie had studied theology and had even established his own religion, an offbeat sect that had few members. An expert pilot, Ferrie flew for Eastern Airlines in the 1950s and served as a captain for a Civil Air Patrol squadron at Lakefront Airport. There he met Oswald for the first time because Oswald had joined the squadron. Because of his homosexuality, Ferrie lost his job at Eastern, but he drew the attention of Guy Banister. A former FBI agent and former assistant supervisor of the New Orleans Police Department, Banister opened a private investigative agency located near Lafayette Square in ’61. Banister was an extreme anti-communist and racist and found that Ferrie shared his beliefs. Using his connections with the local CIA office, located in the nearby Masonic Temple Building, Banister obtained jobs for Ferrie to fly missions in which he dropped supplies to CIA-sponsored anti-Castro guerillas. To support his accusations against Shaw and the now deceased Ferrie, Garrison obtained both a grand jury indictment and a bill of information alleging that Shaw was guilty of conspiracy to commit murder. Garrison produced a witness, a recently released Angola inmate named Perry Raymond Russo, who related a story, that if true, would’ve destroyed the official government lone assassin version of the assassination. His memory jolted by hypnosis sessions, Russo stated that in the summer of 1963, he attended a party at Ferrie’s apartment. Both Clay Shaw and Oswald (who called

himself “Leon”), together with several anti-Castro Cubans, also attended. Russo claimed that at the party, Ferrie launched a tirade against President Kennedy, calling him pro-Communist and demanding that action be taken to eliminate him. Ferrie then talked in detail about assassinating Kennedy, about how he should be killed while he rode in a motorcade. Ferrie then laid out plans to catch the president in a “triangulation of crossfire,” in which multiple gunmen firing from different positions would kill him.

Cross Examination

A fter two years of intense publicity and legal appeals, the trial of Clay Shaw began in January 1969. Garrison’s prosecutors produced witnesses and for the first time in a public setting, the famous Zapruder film of the assassination showing Kennedy’s head moving Three years after the 1964 publication of the violently leftward and backward after Warren Report, the disbeing struck, convincing many courttrict attorney of Orleans room observers, including the jurors, that Parish, Jim Garrison, would startle the nation a conspiracy indeed existed. However, by announcing that his in making its case against Shaw, the office was conducting prosecution proved wanting. Once again, an investigation into the Kennedy assassination. Russo testified about the party, but subjected to a withering cross-examination, he didn’t come across as a highly credible witness. A convicted heroin dealer named Vernon Bundy testified that he saw Shaw and Oswald exchange an envelope on the Lake Pontchartrain seawall. Seven witnesses from Clinton, La., stated that they saw Shaw, Ferrie and Oswald together there in late August ’63. The most compelling witness that Garrison seemed to produce was a New York accountant named Charles Speisel. Unlike the former inmate Russo, Speisel, well dressed and well spoken, appeared quite credible when he testified that he also had attended a party, this one at a house on Esplanade Avenue, in which Ferrie, Shaw and Oswald also discussed assassinating the president. Fortunately, in our adversarial system, there’s an opportunity for the defense to cross-examine a witness. Upon cross-examination, Speisel admitted that he fingerprinted his daughter when she returned home during holidays to ensure that aliens hadn’t kidnapped her and switched her for one of their own. The rest of the trial was anticlimatic, and it took the jury less than an hour to acquit Shaw. Garrison’s failure to prove his case in a court of law delighted defenders of the Warren Commission’s lone assassin conclusion, but Garrison did raise certain questions that directly related to the New Orleans connection to the assassination. First, why was Oswald, an outspoken communist sympathizer, associating with people like Banister and Ferrie, who were on the oppo-

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site end of the political spectrum? Both Garrison’s office and a subsequent investigation by the House Select Committee on Assassinations uncovered evidence that Oswald indeed associated with extreme right-wing anti-communists during his New Orleans sojourn. Banister’s secretary, Delphine Roberts, and William George Gaudet, a CIA operative who frequently met with Banister, recalled seeing Oswald in Banister’s office. Oswald had known Ferrie since he belonged to the Civil Air Patrol squadron that Ferrie commanded, and numerous witnesses saw them together in New Orleans in the summer of 1963. Another issue raised by Garrison was his accusations against the CIA for engaging in a willful cover-up of its New Orleans-based anti-Castro operations in the spring and summer of 1963. At the time, virtually all pundits and leaders of the national news media scoffed at Garrison’s charges, but later developments proved him entirely accurate. Next to Miami, New Orleans became the home for the largest influx of Cuban refugees from Cuba after Fidel Castro assumed power in ’59. Acting on orders from its Langley, Va., headquarters, the New Orleans office of the CIA developed an extensive network of individuals assigned to engage in guerilla attacks against the Cuban government. According to CIA documents, Oswald was assigned many tasks involving anti-Castro maneuvers emanating from the New Orleans Field Office. Others who took part in the activities included Ferrie, Banister, Gaudet, and such anti-Castro Cuban exiles as Carlos Bringuier and Sergio Arcacha Smith. The activities carried out in and around New Orleans during the early 1960s became embedded in a morass of intrigue and intelligence operations that hasn’t yet been totally untangled because of the continuing refusal of the CIA to release all materials in its possession relating to the assassination. Only a few aspects

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will be mentioned here. Various anti-Castro Cuban organizations were established in New Orleans and served as fronts of undercover operations. Arcacha Smith’s Cuban Revolutionary Council had an office in the same building, located at 544 Camp St., where Banister’s private investigator’s office was housed. It is of considerable interest that some of the pro-Castro leaflets that Oswald passed out in downtown New Orleans listed 544 Camp St. as the address of his Fair Play for Cuba Committee. Banister used Oswald to try to find Castro’s double agents who had infiltrated such groups as the Cuban Student Directorate (DRE), also located in New Orleans. The details of these intelligence activities remain classified to this day. It is known that George Joannides, the CIA’s liaison with the DRE, deliberately withheld vast amounts of documentary material from congressional committees looking into these matters. In late August 1963, Oswald travelled to Dallas, where he met with David Atlee Phillips, who, using the alias “Maurice Bishop,” served as the principal CIA official in charge of Western Hemispheric clandestine activities. Oswald also met in Dallas in late September with Silvia Odio, the daughter of a prominent Cuban opponent of Castro. At both meetings, Oswald was accompanied by, or seen by, Cuban exiles supported by the CIA. Together with Banister and Ferrie, Oswald visited the large Schlumberger Well oil drilling supply company located in Houma. According to CIA records, the company provided cover for a large cache of weapons and other supplies that Ferrie and others would fly to Cuban rebels fighting against Castro’s forces. A guerilla training camp was located near Bedico Creek, on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain. There both Americans and Cuban exiles were instructed by CIA agents on guerilla tactics and even methods of assassination, since killing the Cuban leader remained the highest priority of the American intelligence agency. A recently released document written by Richard Helms, the CIA’s second in command, reveals that even after President Kennedy was assassinated, assassination plots against Castro were being hatched in Washington, Miami and New Orleans.

The Mafia Angle

A nother aspect of the New Orleans connection to the assassination lays in the possible involvement of organized crime, with the Louisiana Mafia boss, Carlos Marcello, being a prime suspect. Marcello had plenty of reason to despise President Kennedy and his brother, Attorney General Robert Kennedy. In 1961, acting on orders from the attorney general, federal agents arrested Marcello, who had never obtained his U.S. citizenship,

B ettmann / C orbis / A P P H O T O G R A P H

It took the jury less than an hour to acquit Clay Shaw of the charges to conspire to kill the president. Garrison’s failure to prove his case in a court of law delighted defenders of the Warren Commission’s lone assassin conclusion, but Garrison did raise certain questions that directly related to the New Orleans connection to the assassination.

A P / H enry G riffin P H O T O G R A P H

and “deported” him to Guatemala. After Marcello returned, he found himself entangled in protracted legal struggles to remain in the country. The Justice Department prosecuted him on various immigration charges, and in ’63, Marcello would be tried in federal court. On the very day that the president was assassinated, the jury would acquit Marcello on all charges. Marcello faced other attacks from the Kennedy administration. Robert Kennedy’s Organized Crime Division had singled out Marcello as a primary target in its campaign to destroy Mafia syndicates throughout the country. Marcello voiced his intense hatred of the Kennedy brothers to many people. In one noteworthy conversation with Edward Becker, a Los Angeles mobster, Marcello vowed that, “Bobby will be taken care of.” Referring to President Kennedy as a dog, with Robert being the dog’s tail, Marcello told Becker that, “the dog will keep biting if you only cut off its tail, but if you cut off its head, it will die.” The inference was clear: if President Kennedy was assassinated, Robert Kennedy would no longer be attorney general and his war against organized crime would end. Even more evidence for the theory that Carlos Marcello masterminded the assassination came from a story told by Frank Ragano, an attorney for and a close friend of the Florida mob boss, Santo Trafficante. Ragano stated that in July 1963, he visited the notorious Teamsters Union president, Jimmy Hoffa, had expressed his desire to see the “sons of bitches [John and Robert Kennedy] killed,” who asked him to request that Trafficante and his fellow Mafia godfather Marcello have President Kennedy killed. Ragano travelled to New Orleans, where he met with Marcello and Trafficante at the Royal Orleans Hotel. Ragano relayed Hoffa’s request, and both mob bosses reacted as if the “hit” on Kennedy was already planned. Ragano also stated that in ’82, Trafficante, then dying of heart disease, told him that “Carlos fucked up. He should have killed Bobby, but he got Giovanni [John] instead.” The House Select Committee on Assassinations concluded that Carlos Marcello did indeed have the “motive, means and opportunity” to assassinate the president. Since Marcello’s organized crime empire included Texas, as well as Louisiana, any Mafia murder, especially that of the president, would have needed Marcello’s approval. The committee found that Oswald’s assassin, Jack Ruby, had longtime connections with Marcello operatives in both states. In 1959, for example, Ruby flew from New Orleans to Havana, where he paid Fidel Castro’s people a substantial sum of money to release Trafficante from a prison in the Cuban capital. In the summer of ’63, Ruby made several trips to New Orleans, where he met with such known Marcello associates as Harold Tannenbaum and Nofio Pecora, both of whom operated Bourbon Street strip joints. In the fall of ’63, Ruby made numerous telephone calls to both men. In Dallas, Jack Ruby owned two strip clubs and he reported directly to the two mob bosses of the city, Joseph Civello and Joseph Campisi. Both men were close associates of Marcello’s and in fact, served as his Dallas surrogates. When Carlos Marcello won his acquittal in the federal court in New Orleans on Nov. 22, 1963, sitting at the defense table along with one of Marcello’s attorneys, G. Wray Gill, was none other

than David Ferrie, an investigator for Gill. Before Marcello’s victory party at his West Bank estate got underway, Ferrie and two of his companions set off on a mysterious trip to Houston and Galveston the evening of the assassination. From a public telephone booth outside a skating rink, Ferrie made and received several calls to individuals connected to Marcello and Ruby. One call he made was to the telephone number of the girlfriend of Lawrence Meyers, a Chicago mobster and friend of Marcello’s, who visited Ruby in Dallas the next day, Sat., Nov. 23. The following day, Ruby murdered Oswald in the parking garage basement of Dallas Police Headquarters. Finally, John Martino, a mob associate of both Marcello and Trafficante, appeared to know exactly

when and where the murder of the president would occur. During one of his legal appeals, Jack Ruby stated that “the world will never know the true facts of what occurred … because these people who have put me in the position I’m in will never let the true facts come aboveboard to the world.” Ruby’s statement not only summarizes his murder of Oswald, but also that of the many enigmas of the Kennedy assassination. Although no concrete evidence proves that a conspiracy to kill the president originated in New Orleans, the city’s connection to the assassination remains one of its enduring mysteries. The House Select Committee on Assassinations concluded that Carlos Marcello did indeed have the “motive, means and opportunity” to assassinate the president.

Michael L. Kurtz is a Scholar-in-Residence in History and Southeastern Louisiana University and author of Crime of the Century: The Kennedy Assassination From a Historian’s Perspective (Third Edition, 2013).

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h t a e D Excerpt from Hell and High Water: The Battle to Save the Daily Times-Picayune, published by Pelican Publishing Company

V eteran editor J im A moss was perhaps

the only person in the Times-Picayune newsroom to suspect that the evening of May 23, 2012, would be particularly inauspicious in the history of the 175-year-old newspaper. About 10:30 p.m. local time, a story by New York Times popular media reporter David Carr – who unsuccessfully had sought comment from Amoss earlier that evening – went live on the newspaper’s “Media Decoder” blog. Carr’s report was explosive for employees and anyone who loved New Orleans, its celebrated newspaper, or who followed the longstruggling newspaper industry. It detailed how the newspaper’s New York-based owner, Advance Publications, would put the T-P at the center of a bold experiment in United States journalism: New Orleans would become the largest American city without a daily newspaper. The daily T-P would be replaced with a three-day-a-week publication and a beefed-up NOLA.com, the newspaper’s website that was routinely criticized by Internet experts and Joe Everyman alike as badly organized, aesthetically unappealing and difficult to navigate. The story reported that the newspaper faced deep staff cuts, and that longtime co-managing editors

Peter Kovacs and Dan Shea – the two most powerful people in the newsroom after Amoss – would lose their jobs as a result of the changes. The only significant error in Carr’s report was that Amoss also would leave the newspaper after overseeing the transition. Newsroom employees had grown increasingly apprehensive in the past two months, ever since the announcement that veteran publisher, Ashton Phelps Jr., would retire and be replaced by Ricky Mathews, publisher of the Advance-owned Mobile (Ala.) Press-Register and president of the company’s Alabama Media Group, which also oversaw Advance’s two other newspapers in that state. Although Phelps had insisted the decision to retire was his alone, his departure would be the first time since 1918 that a Phelps would not be publisher of the newspaper. Anxiety had mounted in recent weeks as senior editors began disappearing from the newsroom – first for hours, then for days – a phenomenon sardonically labeled the “Rapture” by those excluded from the ominously secretive gatherings. Amoss and Phelps were the only local newsroom executives who initially knew about the coming

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changes, but Amoss had steadily expanded the inner circle of editors entrusted with knowledge of the coming changes. The group eventually included features editor Mark Lorando, online editor Lynn Cunningham, sports editor Doug Tatum, NOLA.com editor James O’Byrne and online news desk editor Paula Devlin. City editor Gordon Russell was the last to join the meetings, which began in late April or early May during the annual New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. All participants were required to sign confidentiality agreements and were sworn to secrecy, with Russell forbidden to talk even to Shea or Kovacs about what was going on. “I went to Peter and said, ‘One guy here has to tell me the truth,’” Shea recalled in March 2013, “and [Peter] responded, ‘I’m out. I’m not part of this. Even Gordon won’t tell me what’s going on.’” As the harsh news detailed in Carr’s report spread through the region in the early hours of May 24, 2012, the newspaper’s employees were scared, confused – and angry. “Some gathered for an impromptu porch party, checking the Internet on a laptop, smoking cigars, killing a case of Coors Light,” wrote Kevin Allman, editor of the city’s alternative weekly, Gambit, who trailed Carr by only a few hours in confirming and posting a story on his publication’s website about the coming changes. “Others went to [local watering hole] Wit’s Inn in Mid-City for a wee-hours bacchanal. A few others tied one on with city editor Gordon Russell at his Uptown home.” Over the course of the next several months, Allman became the often-confidential mouthpiece of the newspaper’s rank-and-file, a main source of information as the newspaper’s brass closed ranks and shared little with the staff or the inquiring news media. “I had to find this out by Twitter,” one reporter told Allman the night the news broke. “Do I go in to the office tomorrow? Do I even have a job to go in to tomorrow? I don’t know. No one has called me. No one has said anything.” Outside the newspaper, rumors also had been buzzing. Uptown doyenne Anne Milling, wife of retired Whitney Bank president and 1993 King of Carnival, R. “King” Milling, fielded two calls from reporters the day before the New York Times’ story broke, asking whether she had heard anything about major changes coming to the newspaper, including it becoming a less-than-daily publication. A longtime member of Phelps’s Times-Picayune community advisory board and past winner of the newspaper’s annual philanthropic “Loving Cup” award, Milling was a natural source for reporters to contact regarding issues about the management or future of the newspaper. The possibility sounded so ludicrous, however, that she dismissed it out of hand. A freelancer called New Orleans Magazine associate publisher and editor-in-chief Errol Laborde with a similar rumor. “It sounded so sensational that I didn’t pay much attention to it,” Laborde recalled in a March 2013 interview. When Milling saw the New York Times’ story the next morning, she immediately called her 94

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“Someone needed to tell them that the people who poured themselves out during Katrina – for themselves, for the city, for the organization, and had created an industry legend – deserved to be treated better than this.”

more digitally savvy friend, New Orleans public relations consultant Diana Pinckley, who walked her through the process of buying her first internet domain. “At 8 o’clock that morning, I sent an email to the newspaper’s leadership: ‘I just bought the URL, “Save the Picayune.” We’re going to go down fighting. Lots of love, Anne,’” she recalled in March 2013. Within hours, and with the help of Pinckley, “Save the Picayune” also had a Facebook page and Twitter feed, each of which attracted hundreds of followers in the first few days. In response to the New York Times story, NOLA. com posted a story about 8:30 a.m. While laying out the newspaper’s new structure in broad-brush strokes, the article and a morning staff memo from Phelps acknowledged that newspaper managers were very much still crafting plans and seemed to admit they had been caught flat-footed by the Times’ reporting. The NOLA.com report confirmed that the Times-Picayune in the not-too-distant future would be published in newsprint form only three times a week: Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, the three days in highest demand by the publication’s advertisers, and that new focus would be placed on the website and the company’s mobile efforts. The story, which carried no byline, closed by conceding that, “the transition will be difficult.” At the time, Times-Picayune pressman Cass DeLatte was only a couple of weeks away from receiving his 25-year anniversary watch at the annual luncheon hosted by Phelps to commemorate the milestone in employees’ careers. DeLatte’s father, a 38-year pressroom veteran who died while still working at the newspaper, had gotten his son the job right out of high school. DeLatte’s wife, Lisa, was selecting new cabinets for a muchanticipated remodeling of the kitchen in her family’s modest Metairie home the morning NOLA. com posted its story. A clerk at the cabinet store asked her what she and her husband planned to do about the coming layoffs at the newspaper. “I called Cass, hoping to God that it was just a bad rumor. But it wasn’t.” As employees streamed into work in the downtown newsroom and the newspaper’s bureaus the morning after Carr’s story broke, the mood was characterized as funereal. Molly’s at the Market, a longtime French Quarter bar popular with the city’s news media, put out the word that TimesPicayune employees would drink for free after 10 p.m. Amoss hastily scheduled what would be three understandably tense staff meetings throughout the day. “The most extraordinary moment was when Jim said, with a sense of disgust, that there were a lot of things wrong with the New York Times story,” Shea recalled about the morning staff meeting held downtown. “The only thing that was wrong was that he was leaving.” That staff meeting also was marked by a devastating soliloquy by Bruce Nolan, a 41-year veteran who had written the front-page story in late March about Phelps’s coming retirement. Nolan’s remarks were particularly notable – and momentous – because of his long-standing friendship

with Amoss (the two graduated from New Orleans’ Jesuit High School together), his role as periodic Phelps speechwriter and his reputation as an even-tempered, deeply religious, family man not prone to openly criticizing the company. But that changed in this meeting. “I think everyone here thinks this doesn’t feel like the old Times-Picayune,” said Nolan, his voice slightly quivering and almost cracking near the end of his remarks, a recording of which was surreptitiously released to the New York Times and posted on its website. “Over the last week, there was a sense of anxiety and dread, a sense of disrespect, a sense that people were being kept in the dark about terribly important things, and that shouldn’t have happened,” he said. Harking back to the tumultuous 1980 merger of the T-P and its then-sister paper, the States-Item, and the way then-new publisher Phelps Jr. shared that news with employees, Nolan remembered, “People had the feeling that they had been told what could be told, and that things would work themselves out, either for good or for ill, but that there had been a sense of respect and a sense that people’s dignity had been honored.” He went on: “And I didn’t see that this week. … To read in the New York Times this morning that a 40-year career, in my case, is ending this way … that wasn’t right … So, we’ll go all go forward, and we’ll watch each other’s backs and we’ll do what we need to do, and we’ll just bring this to as graceful an end as we can, but it’s gonna be tough. And I wish we had done it differently.” At the end of the hearty applause that followed Nolan’s statement, a stunned Amoss responded simply: “I fully recognize that this is not what you call a graceful end, or a graceful transition. It’s a rough, traumatic one. And I wish it weren’t so.” In the span of that four-minute-and-18-second rebuke, Nolan was transformed in the eyes of his colleagues from an editor and reporter deeply loyal to the newspaper and its managers to the “People’s Reporter,” a hero of the rank-and-file. “I wish [the recording] hadn’t gotten out, but I’m happy to stand behind it,” he recalled almost 10 months later. “I was dimly aware that I had a certain standing, both with Jim, and by virtue of my time there. Someone needed to tell them that the people who poured themselves out during Katrina – for themselves, for the city, for the organization, and had created an industry legend – deserved to be treated better than this.” Nolan said Amoss later approached him and told him, “‘I want you to know that I get it.’ His message to me was ‘message received,’ and that there would be no blowback,” Nolan remembered. Nearly three weeks later, Nolan was informed that he was one of the more than 200 Times-Picayune employees who would lose their jobs as a result of the changes. As devoid of specific information as Amoss’ meetings were, at least he held them. Employees on the first floor, where the newspaper’s business-side employees worked, were told nothing except to read Phelps’ memo. Pressroom and packaging employees, the latter who assembled and prepared the newspaper for home delivery and transport to newsstands and boxes, were treated similarly. “By the time I got to work, everyone was talking about it, but managers and supervisors – silence,” recalled one veteran production employee who requested anonymity over the employee’s concerns about continuing severance payments. After Amoss’ initial staff meetings and the corresponding vague announcement that changes were on the way, it became clear that the newspaper’s management was either unwilling or simply unprepared to provide meaningful information about what would happen, and when. Mike Marshall, editor of the Press-Register, which also was forced by the New York Times’ story to announce that it, too, was making the “digital-first” leap, told industry news site Poynter.org the next day that “the rollout of these changes

wasn’t supposed to have occurred for a couple of [more] months.” That remark was astonishing in and of itself, in that it revealed that executives expected a secret of this magnitude to keep for months in organizations staffed by people who specialized in uncovering information and persuading reluctant individuals to share sensitive information. Even NOLA Media Group stalwart O’Byrne, who was then editor of NOLA.com, later admitted at an industry conference that the newspaper’s management was “arrogant to think we could keep a secret in a newsroom.” This level of secret-keeping extended to the uppermost echelons of the newspaper’s management and ultimately would destroy professional relationships that had endured, essentially, for entire careers. For close to three decades, Kovacs had overseen the logistics and practicalities of running the newsroom, assuming a no-nonsense, often brusque manner that got the job done and allowed Amoss the luxury of remaining somewhat detached from the oftentimes messy and imperfect work of producing a daily newspaper. Kovacs waited all day for some word from Amoss, his boss and the man with whom he had spoken nearly every weekday for more than 29 years. When no conversation had occurred by day’s end, and Kovacs was left with no sign as to whether the New York Times’ report of his impending termination was true, he stuck his head in Amoss’ office as he prepared to leave work about 6:30 p.m., several employees close to Kovacs recounted. “You know what I don’t get?” Kovacs asked Amoss. “How little your reputation means to you.” Although Kovacs declined to talk about the episode, it must have been particularly painful for him because he had spent his entire professional life at Advance newspapers, starting his career at the Birmingham News before accepting a job with the Times-Picayune in 1983. Only a few hours after the news broke, former Times-Picayune reporter Steve Ritea, now a senior communications official with the University of California at Los Angeles, created the “Friends of the Times-Picayune Editorial Staff” Facebook group, a private, by-invitation-only page specifically for employees, alumni and newspaper supporters. Although the irony was lost on no one that social media would become an important weapon in the attempts to save a print outlet from a digitally driven death, the “Friends Page” nonetheless became the central communications channel for rallying support, and efficiently and quickly relaying news and information to newspaper employees, alumni and supporters. My involvement in the saga began on the Friends Page, whose membership quickly swelled to more than 1,600, including former employees throughout the country, journalists covering the developments, New Orleans community and civic activists, and scores of people who simply loved the newspaper. The group was and continues as a digital watering hole sans the cocktails, an online gathering spot analogous to the real-life Molly’s at the Market. By not providing meaningful information in the weeks after the initial announcement, the T-P’s and Advance’s executives created an information vacuum that fueled growth of the Friends Page and made it a central information conduit for most rank-and-file employees and their supporters. As a result, Advance and the newspaper’s brass unwittingly legitimized and fueled one of the most effective tools its detractors would deploy in the coming months. Rebecca Thiem is a former reporter for the Times-Picayune. She founded dashTHIRTYdash, a nonprofit that raised funds for employees who lost their jobs when the newspaper’s frequency was reduced. She now lives in Las Vegas. End notes are not included here because of space considerations. They are listed in detail in Theim’s book which is being released by Pelican Publishing Company this fall. myneworleans.com

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C A R M E L , C alif . – n a town without addresses ,

the road to recovery doesn’t show up on GPS, so it’s best to meet at the grocery store nestled at the bottom of the mountain. On a wine country summer day that should be bottled and sold to the rest of us, Wendy Rodrigue steps out of a silver Mercedes convertible, pointing to a house you can’t see from here. George is up there painting today. Just like yesterday. Wendy attaches unexpected reverence to that bit of news as salted peninsula winds butt-in to dance with strands of hair forever immortalized on canvas. After 15 years of marriage, she’s still a painting come to life – a Jolie Blonde sporting hip librarian glasses that make her look like a local, and traces of a panhandle accent that assures everyone she’s not. Wendy turns the ignition. A left, a right and two more lefts take her to where the street signs end. The cliff-hugging, poorly defined path bridles the horses underneath the hood as the elevation and property values continue to climb. Clouds nearly reach to eye level. Suddenly, the 96

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road deposits unto a sprawling 22-acre compound. Once the marine layer burns away, you can see 40 miles into the valley. Crunches of feet atop gravel cut the tranquility for only an instance. Neighbors are neither seen nor heard. Cell phone service is fickle, at best – a blessing more than a nuisance. Deer drink from the fountain out front. Bobcats and mountain lions roam the undisturbed hills around back. Humidity is a unicorn. Spanish moss melts from the limbs, airy mementos of home, to which they’ll one day return. Otherwise, it’s Oz compared to New Orleans. They are here, well, because they always come here. George first discovered this artistic enclave in college, and three decades later opened a quaint gallery in downtown Carmel. Before the Rodrigues bought this secluded property, they rented a couple of others, choosing to spend their summers away from the equally suffocating social scene and soupy air of south Louisiana. What is different, though, is the extended stay. There is no firm date to leave. Might be a year. Might be two years. Might be longer. The thumping heartbeat of New

Orleans – a sound they’ll never stop loving and confess they’ll soon miss – made it impossible for the Rodrigues to recover physically, mentally and spiritually from the trials of the past 12 months. In the summer of 2012, doctors performed a biopsy on tissues taken from George’s spinal surgery in which two defective vertebrae were strengthened and filled with cement. The diagnosis: Stage 4 lung cancer. To most it’s a death sentence – a fate George dodged thanks to a rare mutation enabling doctors to ward off the disease with a single pill. Status check-ups occur every three months, and thus far all have been positive. Still, it’s raw to the Rodrigues – pain chased away last week by slow dances to Stevie Wonder. Though they’ll share today, frankly they don’t like thinking about cancer. So Wendy talks on, about her new book hitting the shelves this month, about packing for Vegas tomorrow, about how you once couldn’t eat ice cream on the streets here until former Mayor Clint Eastwood (yes, that Clint Eastwood) changed that stupid granola fascist law, when a touch on the shoulder disturbs her stream of consciousANDREA MCHUGH PHOTOGRAPH

ness. She looks back; it’s George. The dark patches hugging his eyes and the freckles of paint and grease staining his sleeves validate his account of working until 3:30 a.m. last night on a commissioned Mardi Gras Blue Dog piece he’ll complete after dinner – though the expression on a face oozing more character than beauty tells a different story. He feels good. Real good. Looks good, too. Priorities are in order. The TV guy came by today and hooked up George’s 90-incher for LSU football, so that worry is gone. Wendy rolls her eyes. “We’ll get boudin off the Internet,” he says, opening the front door. As George walks to the back patio, he passes a painting. The Blue Dog sits atop a raised grave, a tie around its neck and a Jolie Blond hat resting near its paws. The title, “He Stopped Loving Her Today,” is borrowed from an old George Jones song, the country music star’s passing serving as inspiration. They met once, George says, between sips of an O’Doul’s. Happened at a car dealership in New Iberia. Jones had this issue with his credit, so while the salesman sorted through the finances, the Nashville myneworleans.com

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legend took a seat next to Rodrigue. “The guy was in a green jumpsuit, and he turns to me and asks what I do,” Rodrigue says. “‘Well, I’m an artist.’ George Jones then goes, ‘Oh really, what do you sing?’” George laughs the kind of laugh that makes you shake before you smile. Framed by a picturesque view lifted from a break-room motivational poster, he’ll talk for the next hour, flashing a type of radiance impossible not to love as he touches on varied topics such as archaic cell phones, health insurance, even Facebook. Rodrigue’s son, Jacques, and Wendy are a small but captive audience, chipping in occasionally to round out these wellworn stories. George’s animated voice masquerades the fact that he’s not out of the woods, that the cancer isn’t gone, that he’s still required to take powerful medicine loaded with dire side effects and that nine days from now, those pills will rebel against his resilient body. But, for a moment anyway, it’s easy to forget. B

T hey met on a Monday, Chemo Day.

Little guy, George says. Real, real skinny. Cowboy hat atop his bald head. Hospital gown around his withered frame. He walked slow, but not deliberately, the squeak from the wheels of his oxygen tank announcing each step. A lovable but ornery man, he drank hard, smoked hard and lived hard – perhaps to this end. He had been in treatment at Houston’s Methodist Hospital for months, longing to go back chasing windmills. “His name was Slim,” George recalls. “Couldn’t tell if he was older or younger – bout my age. He took over the whole room.” Wendy interjects, “And you can’t get more politically incorrect.” “Yeah, well, he’s a guy from Texas,” George goes on. “And he yells and I can hear him talking about this Dago from New Iberia. So I yelled, “WHATCHA TALKING ABOUT NEW IBERIA FOR?’” George being George, they naturally became fast friends, sharing stories between hands of Gin Rummy as if they were sitting on barstools, not hospital beds. “He’s a professional pigeon racer,” George says. “It’s very serious. You got your pigeons. You put $5,000-$10,000 down on your pigeon. You bring all these pigeons to Colorado City and the first one to show up at your house, you win the lottery.” They met a lot of people last summer, a period the Rodrigues would just as soon forget, though they’re both smart enough to know that’s unrealistic. A few families stay in touch via email, asking how George is feeling. Fine, mostly. And for that he’s grateful, though he’s not gonna lie, there’s a lot of guilt in answering truthfully. So many of the patients in adjacent beds didn’t stand a chance. Some lost their fight. For a while, George was just like them. Later this afternoon, a friend from Louisiana calls, asking 98

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the name of George’s cancer physician, figuring he’s got some secret. He doesn’t. George just lucked out. “Stage 4 lung cancer isn’t late in the game, it’s basically the end of the game. … (My friends) bought all my paintings once they knew I was sick,” George says solemnly, staring off into nature. “Ain’t no doubt they thought I was dead. …You know, everybody dies. I had a good life. I did a lot.” George’s voice quivers. “I, I was sad for everybody else,” George continues. “That’s the thing.” Protective of her husband, Wendy suggests George change the topic. George nods and says, “I’m sorry.” “I can’t talk much about it, but he was truly, truly scared for me and scared for his sons,” Wendy says. “Scared for us. I was with him all the time, and to see that fear in him was very disturbing to me. I was desperate for him not to worry about anything, least of all me. Worry about me? No. But that’s all he thought about. “Most of the time, he was so sick, that personality wasn’t there,” she continues. “He wasn’t George. I remember writing about this: In the hospital they have you fill out patient questionnaires and they asked if he was depressed. I almost got mad. Of course! Of course he’s depressed! He wasn’t laughing. Not until later.” By the time doctors discovered the cancer, tumors had spread throughout George’s body. A non-smoker, George suspects (though it can’t really be proven) the roots of his disease date back three decades when he sprayed canvases with a toxic varnish inside an unventilated studio. “When I got (to Houston), I had no options,” George says. “The doctors go, ‘Hey you got this, and this is what we can do for you.’ No time and no options. I could tell in their face I wasn’t given much of a chance.” Radiation and chemotherapy began immediately. Doctors outlined their plan, briefing Wendy and Jacques on when and why certain procedures were necessary. They then asked about George’s schedule – could he take time away? Yes, Wendy said sternly. We’re here. We’re staying. Life can wait. Nurses painted blue marks on George’s body, targeting the tumors they’d attack. The day-to-day grind wore on George. Too proud to ride in a wheelchair, George walked back and forth from his hotel room to the treatment center. Wendy mapped out the rest spots – a chair in the lobby, a rail near the elevator. George complained about the down time, so Jacques brought him some paint supplies. George doodled eight tiny sketches and stopped, totally spent. He wouldn’t paint again, at least not here, not on this “Medical Planet” as George described it to Wendy in one of her many blog entries last summer. For Wendy, writing doubled as a cathartic release. Those trying months in Houston comprise much of the last chapter in her newly released first book, The

Other Side of the Painting (UL Press, available Oct. 1). Quick to preface that it’s not a cancer book, Wendy wove together 474 pages of new material and longforgotten blogs, cracking a window so readers can glimpse into two lives integrated through art and love. Final re-writes and edits were done in Carmel. “Looking back, I never wrote the word ‘cancer’ in those entries,” Wendy says. “I was intentionally vague, but you can’t suppress the emotion that’s in those paragraphs. Reading it again, it all comes back. So much is personal, too personal. The worst thing was just watching him in so much misery. You just couldn’t wait for this to be over so he can stop feeling so horrible all the time. You wanted it to end.” After 10 weeks it finally did, on Chemo Day. The hotel phone rang around 7 p.m., which was late for Wendy and George. He might have been asleep already. Wendy was probably watching Netflix, though she’s not total sure. One the other line was a nurse. Come to the facility. The doctor needs to speak with you. Tired, Wendy and George trudged back, only to be awoken/greeted by a joyful shout: “You’ve won the lottery!” the physician proclaimed. “What did he say?” George turned to ask. “I don’t know,” she whispered back. Biopsy tests revealed George’s tumors contained a rare mutation found in less than 5 percent of lung cancer patients. Most of those are Asian woman. The defect compromises the illness and can be exploited via the antibiotic Tarceva, a targeted treatment that’s believed to block proteins needed for cancer cells to grow and divide. The FDA officially approved the drug in May 2013, 10 months after doctors prescribed it to George. On the medication’s own website, it reads, “The way Tarceva works to treat cancer is not fully known.” George takes one pill daily at midnight. “You know, I’ve been lucky my whole life,” Rodrigue says, looking directly at his son, who’s sitting beside him. “I’ve got to give it to whoever is watching me. Jacques knows. He knows what they say about me. “When he falls in shit, he comes up with a rose,” Jacques says. “Been like that my whole life,” George says. “A rose from a pile of shit.” B

I n the lost hours of the evening, after the brushes

are rinsed colorless and the pill is swallowed, she watches him sleep. Palm pressed against her cheek, elbow dug into the pillow, Wendy monitors George’s breathing – wishing for it to be smooth, uninterrupted. It is something she never did before and isn’t quite sure why she’s doing now. Just to make sure, she supposes. “I don’t know if anything is peaceful anymore,” Wendy confesses. “I have a lot of anxiety just naturally, George will tell you. So, I’m in a panic: Is he breathing? I want it to be for a steady amount of time before I go to sleep myself.” At dinner with friends, Wendy’s delicate hand clings to George’s forearm. They have always been close, though that want is more of a need now. As Johnny Cash blares throughout George’s studio, she’ll excuse herself from the laptop and sit behind him admiring his artistic genius. Earlier this spring, George kept adding flowers ANDREA MCHUGH PHOTOGRAPH

next to the Blue Dog. Wendy asked if there was some symbolism to it? Perhaps a sign of rebirth, of blossoming from a patch of dirt? No, George said, they’re just pretty. “I’m looking for the deeper meaning to the bigger picture, but sometimes a flower is just a flower,” Wendy says. “We’ll get there. We’ll absorb this and process this but I don’t know that we want to right now. And I wrote about this in the book, ‘How will we know when or how this has changed us?’ I don’t think either of us can pinpoint that until more time passes.” There is hesitance to pause and look back, partially because of the moments lost to sickness. Even after his release from Methodist, George didn’t paint for another seven weeks. He could barely lift his head, let alone a brush. By October, Wendy cleared out the office space attached to their third-story New Orleans bedroom and placed down a chair and easel because George wasn’t well enough to make it all the way downstairs to the studio. He painted a couple pieces, but the artistic flow was stunted. Just so many commitments – dinners, parties, charity functions, foundation events – all of it leaching George’s thimble-worth of energy. After one late evening, he turned to Wendy, telling her that he wanted to go to California, he wanted to recuperate, he wanted to slow down. “I painted until 3:30 last night and woke up at noon,” Rodrigue says. “I can’t do that in New Orleans. I know that. Too many things happening with the foundation, (Wendy’s) things she’s got to go to, and then I got to attend at the museum. And it’s all fine and good, but you got to look at your own self-interests sometimes. A lot of people don’t understand that. Yeah, you’re living the life, but it’s not always your life. “So this isn’t any big deal,” Rodrigue says of the indefinite relocation. “We’ve gone through a big deal.” myneworleans.com

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All in the Family Legacy businesses six decades or older by Judi Russell Maybe your brother-in-law drives you crazy when he starts telling his corny jokes. Or your niece’s idea of a hard day’s work is several hours cruising the Internet. For most of us, it’s no big deal; we only have to get along on holidays and at the occasional Sunday family dinner. But for people who work in a family business, a lot more is on the line when family members don’t get along. It takes a special kind of grace to pull it off, to be able to overlook individual foibles for the greater good. When it works well, you end up with a business like the ones profiled here. An entrepreneur, often an immigrant, plants the seed and succeeding generations add their own talents, capitalizing on the business secrets passed down the way some families pass down silver or jewelry. The result is a business that becomes a New Orleans fixture, one generations of customers love to patronize. It takes patience, hard work and an ability to separate work time from family time, so both spheres stay strong. PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARYLOU UTTERMOHLEN

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Hansen’s Sno-Bliz Ashley Hansen’s youngsters are two of the luckiest kids in town. After all, their mother is a co-owner of Hansen’s Sno-Bliz, so they get to sample the stand’s snowballs just about any time they want. Tuesday through Sunday, from March to October, hoards of sweaty children and adults head to Hansen’s on Tchoupitoulas Street for a snowball, reveling in the perfectly shaved ice and delicious homemade syrups. For locals, a Hansen’s snowball has the same cache as a Plaquemine’s Parish orange: you could go somewhere else, but why bother? For Ashley Hansen, though, snowballs are more than sweet treats. She sees them as a way to keep the bonds of love between her and her grandparents tight, some eight years after their deaths. “They were so devoted to quality,” she says, and she sees her job as making sure every snowball sold at the stand maintains that same quality. The story of Hansen’s begins in 1939, when Mary and Ernest Hansen opened a snowball stand on St. Ann Street. Ernest, a machinist, used his talents to come up with the Sno-Bliz, a machine for shaving ice. He had

his invention patented. Mary created the flavored syrups, and the combination was a match made in heaven. At that time, snowballs cost the princely sum of $.02 apiece. In 1944, the stand was moved to its present location. Ashley Hansen says her grandparents discouraged their two sons from working at the snowball stand. She quotes her grandfather as saying, “I wear jeans so you don’t have to,” and his prediction was correct. Both sons helped out at the stand from time to time, but became professionals; Ashley’s father, Gerard, was an Orleans Parish magistrate judge and his brother, Ernest, a pediatrician. But Ashley couldn’t be kept from helping out at the stand. She was crazy about her grandparents, and working side-by-side with them was her idea of a perfect job. She made snowballs during school vacations and during summer breaks. In 1995, after graduating from Loyola University with a degree in art, she pondered her career choices. “I was pretty sure I wanted to work with my grandparents in some way,” she says. “I loved the stand.” She lacked her grandmother’s ease with customers, though, and had to

learn to overcome her shyness. “I channeled Mary Hansen,” she jokes. In time she, too, could hold easy conversations with the customers; today, she serves some of those same customers’ children. In 2005, the Hansen family was struck by the calamity that befell thousands of their neighbors. Hurricane Katrina blew the roof off the snowball stand, but what it did to Mary and Ernest Hansen was much worse. At the time of the storm, Mary Hansen was not well. She had developed signs of senility, and was in Touro Infirmary. Her husband had just celebrated his 94th birthday. When other family members evacuated, they moved Ernest Hansen into Touro with his wife and hired a sitter, believing they would be safer there. When the levees broke and Touro itself was evacuated, the Hansens were separated. As soon as they could, family members traveled the state, trying to find out where the elder Hansens had been taken. Finally, Ashley’s twin sister, who was in Washington, D.C., located the pair just one mile apart – one in Pineville and one in Alexandria. The trauma had been too much for the couple. Mary Hansen died

in 2005, at 95. Her husband of 72 years passed away in ’06. Ashley Hansen knew she wanted to reopen the stand, but she worried about re-assembling her work force. It took her about a year to clean the stand and get it up and running. Her father and uncle had inherited the business; she bought out her uncle and is in the process of buying out her father. Her twin lives in Baton Rouge, but Ashley hopes she might one day return and sell snowballs, too. For now, running Hansen’s keeps Ashley crazy busy. “We make the syrups every day,” she says. Favorites include nectar cream, chocolate, satsuma, lemonade and strawberry. A small snowball costs $1.50; $20 buckets are available for parties. She has no intention of expanding. Like her grandparents, she thinks quality is easier to control with one location and one staff. One of her favorite aspects of the business remains the friendships that build up between the workers and customers. “My grandma had customers that turned into friends,” she says. “Now they bring their kids.” And she can always tell when a customer isn’t a native. They ask for a snowcone, she says, while everybody in town knows you always call the icy treat with the sweet syrup a snowball. myneworleans.com

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Rubensteins In their search for stylish, traditional men’s clothing, countless shoppers have been drawn to the same store: Rubensteins, on the corner of Canal Street and St. Charles Avenue. Since 1924, men (and those who buy for them) have taken advantage of the fact that one shop could outfit them with just about everything from socks to suits, and provide them with clothes that don’t scream “I’m a fad, and I’ll be out of style soon.” Rubensteins has been a family business from its earliest days. Morris Rubenstein founded the business in 1924, hiring his two brothers, Elkin and Sam, to help. (Morris Rubenstein’s parents had owned a dry goods store on Rampart Street.) When Elkin’s sons, David and Andre, came on board, they bought out their Uncle Sam and continued to grow the business. The store added the Madison Shop for young men. Today Andre’s son, Kenny, and David’s daughter, Allison Marshall, are the third generation active in the business. Along with family ties, staff members with longevity lend stability to Rubensteins, Marshall says; two employees have been there almost 30 years, and one has clocked almost 50. Sometimes workers are less than thrilled to see their bosses’ sons and daughters join the staff, but Marshall says she was welcomed and supported because staffers had known her for many years. “I grew up with these people,” she says. “I tried my hardest, [and] they were all on my side.” Marshall’s mother is a sportswear buyer, and she recalls her parents talking about the business over dinner. Fifteen years ago, after she graduated from college with a degree in business, Marshall found part-time work in New Orleans. She wanted to work full time, so she joined Rubensteins in the marketing 102

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department. Today, marketing remains her responsibility. It can be difficult for family members in business together to keep a line between personal and professional life. “About 10 years ago, I had to start calling my parents by their first names, not Mom and Dad,” Marshall says. But family businesses have distinct pleasures, she says. She considers it a real plus that she gets to spend so much time with her family members, eating lunch with them most days. David Rubenstein began working at the store when he was just 8. He and his brother had always wanted to join the family enterprise because their father seemed to enjoy it so much. “Our Daddy always said what a good business it was,” he says. The two brothers rose through the ranks, running the Madison Shop and going on buying trips. “We had the time to do it slowly,” Rubenstein says. Elkin and Sam were excellent mentors. “They had great personalities,” he says. “They were very good merchants.” One of the best moves the company made was to buy its present location and stay there. Their parents had had a dry goods store on Rampart Street, but Elkin and Sam thought the corner of Canal Street and St. Charles Avenue was the best choice for their own venture. “This was an important part of town to be in,” David Rubenstein says. At one point, Elkin and Sam were encouraged to move the business closer to City Hall. Wisely, they declined, reasoning that a location close to the French Quarter meant that tourists and conventioneers would find the shop more easily. Today, visitors to New Orleans make up an important part of Rubensteins’ business. Marshall is upbeat about downtown’s future, too, as she sees more retail open up shop, as well

as new hospitals and condos. “We’re excited,” she says. “We’re here to stay.” Marshall says she and her cousin know the Rubenstein clientele very well. The store is popular with those who prefer to shop in person rather than via the Internet. Their customers want clothes that are of high quality and in fashion, but not too trendy. To encourage young men just starting out to build a solid wardrobe, Rubensteins has an opening price point of $495 for a suit, Marshall says. They carry well-known Italian lines as well as those by American designers such as Ralph Lauren. Rubensteins offers other services to set them apart from bigbox retailers, such as valet service, made-to-measure clothing and tailoring. Years ago the store had locations in suburban malls, but Marshall says those stores are closed, and there are no plans to

migrate from downtown. “That’s a different kind of business,” she says of shopping malls. Her father points out that duplicating the inventory Rubensteins carries downtown for a mall slot would be costly, and that profit margins in malls are very small. Retail doesn’t always attract third- and fourth-generation family members, David Rubenstein says. It is demanding work, requiring long hours, often on weekends or evenings. But it’s very rewarding, and as you progress you usually have some flexibility in your schedule. He used to take his grandchildren to lunch, then return to the store when the kids went down for naps. A confirmed entrepreneur, David Rubenstein has no plans to retire anytime soon. “I have no other hobbies,” he says. “We travel, but when I’m home, I work.” And both he and Marshall expect it to continue to be a family business.

Every fall, parents all across the New Orleans area flock to Haase’s Shoe Store on Oak Street for back-to-school shoes. And all year round, doting aunties and grandmothers visit the clothing section, Young Folk’s Shop, for exquisite Feltman dresses and little boys’ “bubble” onesies. The store has become a tradition, says Judy Caliva, who is a co-owner with her husband, Kevin. In an age of big-box merchants and constantly changing fashions, Haase’s and Young Folk’s thrive because people still like to have the assistance of a knowledgeable salesperson and a selection of traditional styles that have stood the test of time. Like other family businesses in New Orleans, Haase’s itself has stood the test of time. Russian immigrant Boris Haase opened the store in 1921 on Prytania Street, then later moved it to a spot across from its present Oak Street location. After that, he bought a camelback double where the store is now located, raised the double and put the store underneath. He and his family lived above the store. In ’31 his wife, Della, opened Young

Folk’s Shop. Both Haase’s and Young Folk’s were passed down through family members. After Boris Sr.’s death in 1956, their son Boris Jr. managed Haase’s until his death in ’68, at which time daughter, Vera May Haase Caliva, took it over. (Della Haase had ceased running Young Folk’s in ’60, when she handed down the reins to Vera May. Della Haase died in ’70.) Vera May Haase Caliva kept her hand at the tiller of both enterprises, with help from her sons Kevin and Bruce, until she retired a year ago at age 95. “Vera May was truly a genius merchant,” says her daughter-inlaw, Judy, who says her motherin-law is still engaged and lively. Judy married Kevin Caliva in 1981; they bought the store in 2010. One of their sons, Patrick, worked at the store for a while but is now in New York. Their younger son, Jack, goes to Jesuit High School and helps out when he can. Judy Caliva believes that it can be good for people to work outside of a family business to gain experience; she was a teacher before she came

to Haase’s. It isn’t always smooth sailing in any family business, and not every family member is cut out for it. But the Haases and Calivas always worked things out, Judy Caliva says. She says she was taken aback by the size of the endeavor when she first began working there, but now she’s comfortable. Having a stable staff helps. Another reason Haase’s endures, Judy Caliva says, is that it offers service in an era of self-service. They have shoes for youngsters with clubfeet, or who wear leg braces or have other special needs. “Their parents are so desperate,” she says. “It’s very rewarding.” The store also carries lots of wide, extra wide and extra-extra wide shoes. There is no guessing at the correct size at Haase’s. “You have to measure,” Caliva says. But technology does play a role, she explains: grandparents who bring in their grandchildren send cell phone pictures of the shoes they want to buy so parents can still have a vote. Grandparents like the “heirloom look” they find at Haase’s

Haase’s Shoe Store

and Young Folk’s, Caliva says. The inventory includes beautiful smocked outfits that often become hand-me-downs. The store tries to source its wares from suppliers in the United States. Many suppliers are in New York, California and Florida, but they do carry a Louisiana line, Remember Nguyen, based in Bogalusa. Haase’s likes to carry hard-soled shoes that have staying power, believing that people are willing to pay for good quality items that don’t need to be constantly replaced. A big chunk of their business is school uniform shoes. They also sell tennis shoes for everybody in the family, as well as adult men’s shoes. Retailing is a fast-paced livelihood, but Judy Caliva says she’s certain about several things. At 58, she isn’t contemplating retirement any time soon, and Haase’s won’t be opening other locations. When the store first opened, Oak Street was a suburb of New Orleans. Now, Haase’s draws people from all over Louisiana and other states. Its present location is a good fit with its mission, she says, and she doesn’t anticipate branches in any malls. She does think Internet sales will grow. “You cannot ignore it,” she says. “It will play more and more of a role in business.”

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Martin Wine Cellar In 1946, David Martin was looking for a way to make a little money after finishing his service in World War II. He had an uncle in the bulk wine business, so he rented half of a double on Baronne Street and began a career selling wines. Today, that seed of a business has grown into a food and spirits landmark in the New Orleans area. Locals and tourists head to Martin Wine Cellar for lunch or dinner, gift baskets for friends and clients, or just a nice white or red to liven up a dinner party. Carrying on – and expanding – David Martin’s legacy are his son, Cedric, and Cedric’s daughter, Hope. Each has a special strength; Cedric has an extensive wine and food background, while Hope has ramped up the company’s marketing efforts. They say they have successfully navigated the pitfalls common to family businesses and look forward to even more growth when the Uptown store opens in 2015. Cedric Martin began helping out in his father’s store when he was about 12, spending school vaca104

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tions stocking shelves, labeling products and learning about the business by watching his dad. “He was a legend,” he says about his father, who died in 2002. “He never missed a day of work.” In the 1940s and ’50s, New Orleanians drank mostly spirits, so Martin sought to educate his customers about the pleasures of drinking fine wines. Along the way, he enlarged the Baronne Street store. In 1977, he added a deli and a counter with 16 stools to serve lunch. By the late ’80s, the spot had grown into a popular meeting place. The Baronne Street operation was lost to Hurricane Katrina; a small shop on Magazine Street fills in until the new Uptown store opens. The Metairie store opened in 1988 and was successful right off the bat, Cedric says, crediting “the food, the wines, the ambience, the service.” Today that location serves lunch and dinner and carries a wide variety of specialty foods. Martin’s opened locations in Mandeville and Baton Rouge after the hurricane, and also has an

expansive catering business. Cedric Martin learned about wines by traveling, visiting the vineyards of Burgundy, France and Fresno, Calif., and immersing himself in the food end of the business, too. Most wine shops sold little more than cheeses, he says; Cedric envisioned Martin Wine Cellar as a place where customers could find unique food items to serve at parties and holiday gatherings. The company’s three chefs brainstorm to come up with lunch and dinner specials, combining local favorites with more unusual offerings. Mondays will always include red beans and rice, Hope says, while gumbo will always star on Fridays. But customers can expect some unique specials. Dinner specials change every two weeks, while lunch specials change every day. Martin is also growing its prepackaged gifts selection. “The quality of wine in the baskets has never been better,” Hope Martin says. To hit a variety of price points, gift baskets run from $20 to $400.

Hope Martin remembers visiting Martin’s every Saturday at lunchtime with her sister and brother. The three children had lunch with their grandfather; she and her brother always had chicken salad, while her sister had grilled cheese. “We knew everybody,” she says. “We saw how things run.” After she graduated from Vanderbilt University, Hope returned to New Orleans and began assisting her father with managing the rebuilding of the Uptown store. Cedric Martin says he was so impressed with her attention to details that he hired her to take on other responsibilities. “Marketing is my baby,” Hope says. Marketing once consisted of running a few newspaper ads; today, she oversees a website; social networking; wine tastings; spirits events; beer dinners; and the selection of showcase collections that combine reds and whites from the store’s extensive wine holdings. Marketing touches every department, so Hope says she’s learned the nuts and bolts of all facets of the business. She draws on her staff for advice; some employees have been there 20 or 30 years. Because employees tend to work for the company for years, Hope knows that some of the staff remember her as an 8-year-old dressed in a ballerina’s tutu, waiting for her dance lessons. She says she has worked to gain their respect, and she learned to listen to workers before she made any big changes. She also tries to make sure she keeps the line between work and family clear. If work spills into family, it can spoil the special relationship you have with your nearest and dearest, she says. Another hazard common to parent/child work situations is the tendency for moms and dads to micromanage their offspring. “Cedric also gives me opportunities to grow,” Hope says. “He trusts me.”

M.S. Rau Antiques Bill Rau, president of M.S. Rau Antiques, spends his days surrounded by beautiful objects, each with a unique history. He began working in the business at 14, spreading open newspapers to use for packing material. He says it’s always been a labor of love. “I don’t think I’ve ever worked,” he says, explaining that it’s a pleasure to earn a living doing something he enjoys. He and the other members of his family have spent many hours turning what began as a small antiques shop in 1912 to a store that’s the largest art and antiques gallery in sales in North America. The saga began when Bill Rau’s grandfather, Max Rau, opened a business in the 700 block of Royal Street. Although he didn’t have an education in buying and selling antique furniture, he had something more valuable, Bill Rau says: a natural eye. The shop prospered, and in 1931, Max moved to the store’s present location at 630 Royal St. Max Rau was helped by two other fortunate decisions. First, he picked Royal Street, rather than Dryades or Rampart streets, which were also thriving commercial spots at the time. As other areas fell out of favor, the French Quarter continued to be a mecca for shoppers. More importantly, he married Fanny. Bill Rau remembers his grandmother very well; she died just a few days short of her 100th birthday. She was a powerhouse, he says, remaining an active member of the team almost all of her life. Fanny and Max Rau had two sons, Joe and Elias, who both joined the family business. Elias, who was a whiz with figures and furniture repair, and Joe, who was a natural in sales and buying, learned by working side-by-side with their father. Then, in turn, they passed their knowledge

down to their own sons. “You grow in the business by doing,” Bill Rau says. “Hands-on experience is always better.” Elias Rau retired in 1995 after 60 years in the business. Joe Rau continued working until after Hurricane Katrina. A third generation, Elias’s son, Jack, and Joe’s son, Bill, both went into the business. Jack Rau retired after Katrina. Bill Rau, who became a full time employee after graduating from college in 1982, is now president and chief executive officer. M.S. Rau Antiques has changed tremendously since Max Rau opened his doors. The store now has a 30,000-square-foot showroom filled with magnificent jewelry, furniture, fine art and collectibles of every description. Beautifully illustrated catalogues were a big help in growing the business. Today, customers also turn to the store’s website as well

as print advertisements in major newspapers. In addition, Bill Rau attends antiques shows up to eight times a year and sends unique emails to clients. “We touch our customers in different ways,” he says. When it comes to finding inventory, Bill Rau says the company is aggressive, seeking out unique items at the best prices. “We’ve always had things a little bit different,” he says. Antiques, like everything else, go in and out of style, so its important to keep searching for people who have collections they might decide to liquidate. M.S. Rau Antiques isn’t the place to go for an inexpensive gift, but there are objects under $1,000 and hundreds of items under $5,000. Of course, if you’re feeling flush, you might pick up a 12.27 carat pink diamond ring. Bill Rau and his staff help educate shoppers on the value of buying authentic collectibles, which will increase in value, rather

than cheap reproductions, which will depreciate. “We want them to know why [a purchase] is valuable,” Bill Rau says. Having employees who stay for years is a big boost, he adds. “Our cumulative brain trust is amazing.” In its Rau for Art fund, the company gives grants to high school art educators in the New Orleans area. Teachers can use the grant money for supplies, field trips and other expenses so they can better help students develop their creative abilities. The fund was created in 2012 as part of the company’s centennial celebrations. Bill Rau believes the family saga that is M.S. Rau Antiques has a new chapter waiting to begin. He and his wife have two daughters, Rebecca, who is pursuing a fellowship in art, and Hannah, who is a junior in college. His hope is that they, too, will join the other family members who have kept the company a New Orleans institution.

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Lead Chef-Chef Matt Murphy-The Irish House, Chef Andrea Apuzzo- Andreas, Chef Chad Penedo-Court of Two Sisters, Chef Jared TeesManning’s, Chef Justin Kennedy-Parkway Bakery, Chef Mark Quitney-JW Marriott Washington DC, Chef Michael Sichel-Galatoires, Chef Mike Nirenberg-Tivoli & Lee, Chef Nick Lama-Gautreau’s, Chef Rene Bajeux-Rene’s Bistrot, Chef Tenney Flynn-GW Fins, Chef Thierry Connault-M Bistro, Chef Vincent Catalanotto-Vincent’s Italian Cuisine

The March of Dimes 29th annual Signature Chef’s Gala will be held at the Hyatt Regency-New Orleans on Friday, November 22, 2013. The annual Signature Chef’s Gala will be a spectacular gourmet soiree featuring New Orleans’ most celebrated chefs.These top chefs will offer New Orleans diners an opportunity to enjoy a great night out while raising funds, making friends and increasing awareness of the March of Dimes mission to improve the health of babies. This year, the gala will feature a 1930s theme in honor of the 75th anniversary. Music will be provided by the sensational band, The Yat Pack! This year, March of Dimes invited Chef Matt Murphy, who is a mission dad and owner of The Irish House to be the Chef Chairman and he has enlisted a full team of local chefs to prepare their own signature dishes. Among the star studded team of culinarians are Chef Matt MurphyThe Irish House, Chef Mark Quitney- JW Marriott Washington DC, Chef Andrea Apuzzo-Andreas, Chef Michael SichelGalatoires, Chef Tenney Flynn-GW Fins, Chef Rene Bajeux-Rene Bistrot, Chef Justin Kennedy-Parkway Bakery, Chef Jarred Tees-

Manning’s, Chef Mike Nirenberg-Tivoli & Lee, Chef Chad Penedo-Court of Two Sisters, Chef Vincent Catalanotto-Vincent’s Italian Cuisine, Chef Thierry Connault- M Bistro, Chef Nick Lama-Gautreau’s Over seventy percent of the funds raised in Louisiana, stay in Louisiana. The remaining funds are utilized to fund research and programs nationally and internationally. The local funding is used for research grants, education, many local community programs and advocacy at State and Federal levels. Local programs include: • March of Dimes Mom & Baby Mobile Health Center which provides prenatal, wellwoman and well baby care to those in need • NICU Family Support Licensure Program at area hospitals to provide information, support and comfort to families whose babies are treated in the Neonatal Intensive Care Unit (NICU) Premature birth is the most serious infant health problem in the United States today. It affects more than half a million babies nationwide each year, with 1 in 7 in our community. Babies born too soon are more likely to die or have lifelong disabilities. The March of Dimes is committed to reversing

this trend by funding research to find the causes of premature birth and developing strategies to prevent it. The March of Dimes helps moms have full term pregnancies and healthy babies. Each year, more than 4 million babies are born in the United States and the March of Dimes has helped each and every one of them through our research, education, vaccines and breakthroughs. We are also hard at work on the next big breakthrough – finding a way to effectively prevent premature birth, which affects 500,000 families every year. You can help us accomplish our mission! With your support and donations we are able to Fund the Mission and give every baby in Louisiana a healthy start. We look forward to the day that all babies are born healthy! With the commitment and generosity of people like you, that day will come. Your contribution helps to ensure the health and welfare of our children and all future generations. For more information, visit www. marchofdimesnola.com or call Dara Fontenot (504) 264-9290.

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LOUISIANA WEEKENDS: FESTIVALS, FOOD, SHOPPING & MORE Louisiana knows how to have a good time, and during the fall months, good times are rolling left and right. Weekends are jam-packed with statewide festivals, new dining experiences, shopping sales and endless entertainment. Take advantage with a weekend adventure. From the unique offerings of nearby towns and parishes to the popular historic streets of our fine city, there is fun to be had in every corner of the state. Fill your fall with all that Louisiana has to offer: cultural celebrations, decadent Southern cuisine, boutique and designer shopping, and entertainment for all ages. Peruse the following offerings for weekend fun and plan an outing that will satisfy your appetite for adventure.

Accommoda tions There’s nothing like walking through Jackson Square or along the levee of the mighty Mississippi during the cool months of fall, especially after a long day of business meetings. The newly renovated Hilton Garden Inn French Quarter/CBD keeps you in the center of all things New Orleans while on your weekday business trip. Located in the historic Commerce building in the heart of the business/banking/medical district, the hotel sits only two blocks from the charms of the French Quarter, providing an easy stroll to shops, restaurants, the Superdome and New Orleans Arena. This season, the hotel is offering unique specials for travelers of all kinds. The Business Traveler’s Dream offers complimentary parking for one vehicle as well as a cocktail in the relaxing Lounge. Those looking to save while they play will enjoy 25 percent off your room rate when you stay a minimum of two nights (excluding Saturday arrival). Arrive for the game on Sunday and stay three nights at 15 percent off. Visit their website for full details at NewOrleansFrenchQuartercbd.hgi.com today and make your reservation. Located in the heart of New Orleans’ Arts District and within easy walking distance to the Convention Center and the French Quarter, The Hotel Modern New Orleans is a must-visit destination for sophisticated travelers. Understanding that the spirit of New Orleans is about laissez faire and relaxation, The Hotel Modern greets guests with complimentary drinks and escorts them to their room as if they were staying at a close friend’s guesthouse – there is no front desk or lengthy check-in process. The 135 comfortable guest rooms at The Hotel Modern were designed in-house with a modern eclectic aesthetic that mirrors New Orleans’ juxtaposition of Old World charm with New World diversity. The Hotel Modern goes beyond the basics, offering an array of cultural amenities, such as thoughtfully curated books in every room, and their new, full service restaurant, Tivoli & Lee. The Hotel Modern’s lounge, Bellocq, takes its name from photographer E.J. Bellocq, who

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secretly photographed the madams of pre-prohibition New Orleans. It was named one of the Best Bars in America by Esquire Magazine in 2013. For information and reservations, visit TheHotelModern.com. Located in Point Clear, Ala., the Grand Hotel Marriott Resort, Golf Club and Spa is a AAA Four Diamond AwardTM hotel consistently ranked a top Marriott hotel for guest satisfaction. For more than 150 years, The Grand Hotel has been known throughout the South as “The Queen of Southern Resorts.” The Grand Hotel boasts two Robert Trent Jones Trail golf courses, 10 tennis courts, indoor and outdoor pools, a 20,000-square-foot Europeanstyle spa and the new Grand Steakhouse. Enjoy breathtaking views of Mobile Bay while dining at one of seven restaurants and lounges. Named by Golf Digest as one of the Top 75 Golf Resorts in North America and one of the Top 50 Tennis Resorts in the U.S. by Tennis Magazine, The Grand Hotel is the ideal fall escape. This year, the Grand Hotel was “One of the Top 500 Hotels in the World” by Travel + Leisure. To make reservations at The Grand Hotel, visit MarriottGrand.com or call 251-928-9201.

Grand Hotel Marriott resort

Parishes, Ci t ies & Towns Lafayette is all about festivals, food, music and fun. For many, a love of Cajun and Zydeco music is a craving that can only be satisfied by a visit to discover all that makes Lafayette special – unique music venues, delectable food, family friendly attractions and festivals celebrating area cultures and traditions.

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This fall, the capital city of the Cajun heartland boasts a remarkable lineup of events. Downtown Alive, celebrating its 31st year, brings free entertainment to downtown Lafayette every Friday. With October comes the annual Festivals Acadiens et Créoles (Oct. 11-13) located in Girard Park and a tasty Boudin Cook-Off on Oct. 19. At the Vermilionville Living History Museum and Folklife Park, experience the cultures of South Louisiana through exhibits, artisans, music and events. Vermilionville features weekly jam sessions and dances, along with scheduled lectures, films and more. A new addition, the Lafayette Farmers and Artisans Market is held every Saturday morning at the Horse Farm. On the third Saturday of each month, the Lafayette Travel Food Pavilion adds to the fun with more than a dozen food trucks, restaurants and caterers. Visit Lafayette.travel for more destinations and events in Lafayette. Looking for a place with rich heritage and tradition, a place that embraces a sense of small town charm just steps from a big city? Visit “New Orleans’ Most Historic Neighbor,” St. Bernard Parish, located along the Mississippi River and only five miles from downtown New Orleans. Walk in the footsteps of Andrew Jackson at the historic Chalmette Battlefield or learn the traditions of the Canary Islanders at the Isleños Museum, the last vestige of Spanish Colonial Louisiana. While there, be sure to try your hand at some of their world-class fishing or meander down the historic San Bernardo Scenic Byway, viewing stately old plantation homes, ancient oaks and picturesque bayous along the way. St. Bernard offers cultural experiences found only in Louisiana. Discover a new tune at the Blues in da Parish Festival on Oct. 5 and delight in a local delicacy at the Violet Oyster Fest, held Oct. 18-20. Double down with music and food during the Calling It Home Festival, which features the second annual Jambalaya Cook-off on Nov.

Lafayette courtesy Louisiana Office of Tourism

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2 and 3. For details and additional excursions, call 504-278-4242 or check out VisitStBernard.com. Experience Cajunicity in Houma, located just 55 miles southwest of New Orleans. In Louisiana’s Bayou Country, you don’t only see the sights; you become a part of them. Come discover the joie de vivre, or love of life, that’s ingrained into every aspect of this centuries-old culture. This fall, pass a good time with a great lineup of events including the ninth annual Voice of the Wetlands Festival, Oct. 11-13, which highlights southern Louisiana’s lifestyle and culture. On Oct. 26, celebrate Cajun folklore on the bayou with the fabled Rougarou monster, at the second annual Rougarou Fest, a daylong festival revelling in the thrill of terror while remaining family-friendly. Lastly, be sure to head on over to the Southdown Marketplace Arts & Crafts Festival on Nov. 2, which will feature more than 300 arts and crafts vendors, Cajun cuisine and more. For information, call 985-868-2732 or visit HoumaTravel.com. Get cracking in St. Landry Parish for a weekend at the Port Barre Cracklin’ Festival Nov. 7-10. “Pig out” at the only festival that gives tribute to a Louisiana traditional food that has made headlines on such cooking reality shows such as Top Chef. The music lineup for this event includes some of the top band names in Cajun, zydeco and swamp pop music including Chris Ardoin, One Trick Pony and Pine Leaf Boys. The Cracklin Festival is held the second weekend in November every year. Visit PortBarreCracklinFestival.com. While you’re in the area, take your pick of antique shops with more than 500 vendors to find one-of-a-kind items, vintage jewelry, shabby chic home décor and furniture pieces. Perfect with the fall crisp air, the Historic Walking Tour of downtown Opelousas is an activity for the family to see various architecture and homes on the national registry of historic places. Experience all aspects of South Louisiana with a trip to St. Landry Parish. Visit CajunTravel.com or call 877-948-8004 for details and information. Just 40 miles north of the Big Easy, the historic City of Covington lies enveloped by scenic rivers, live oak trees and fragrant long-leaf pines. Covington’s charming downtown offers an abundance of world-class dining and entertainment options, as well as unique boutiques and art galleries where you can discover one-of-a kind treasures. Every Thursday in April and October, the city hosts the Rockin’ the Rails free concerts at the Covington Trailhead. The concerts take place from 5 to 7:30 p.m. and feature some of the Greater New Orleans area’s most celebrated musicians. The October 2013 series will feature Charmaine Neville, Lost Bayou Ramblers, The Yat Pack, Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience, and Vince Vance and the Valiants. After a concert, simply walk to one of many popular restaurants in the historic district to enjoy delectable local fare. Then, blissfully end your evening with an overnight stay at one of several charming bed and breakfasts. Come experience all that Covington has to offer. Visit CovLa.com for more information.

Fes tivals, E ven ts & E n t e r t ain m ent This November, visit the beautiful town of Covington and experience a winning combination of fine art and festival atmosphere. The Covington Three Rivers Art Festival, presented by St. Tammany Homestead and now in its 17th year, brings fine art, crafts and music to the quaint and friendly downtown area, featuring an Arts Alive Tent with live demonstrations by exhibiting artists, a live music stage, an expansive food court and a Children’s Discovery Area complete with a performance stage. This high-end art and fine crafts festival takes place Nov. 9-10, from 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and will feature 200 juried artists from 20 states. There is no charge for admission.

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covington

courtesy Louisiana Office of Tourism

Every year, art lovers stroll down charming Columbia Street to view the five blocks of artist tents situated in the heart of the historic downtown area. With plenty of children’s activities and Student Art Exhibits, the kids will also feel right at home among the colorful array of arts and crafts. The festival kicks off on Saturday morning with a Three Rivers Run 5K & 1 Mile Race before the festival opens. No pets allowed. For more information, visit ThreeRiversArtFestival.com. On the banks of Bayou Lafourche, families are gathering together to celebrate a yearly tradition of Cajun food, music and fun. Celebrating its 40th year, the Annual French Food Festival will begin on Oct. 24 at the “FFF ROCKS!” concert featuring the Allison Collins Band, Zebra & Journey former lead vocalist Steve Augeri. Festivities will continue Oct. 25-27 at the Larose Regional Park & Civic Center, located at 307 E. Fifth St. in Larose. The French Food Festival features carnival rides, Louisiana folk life demonstrations, and more than 30 Louisiana seafood dishes for all to enjoy, including Shrimp Boulettes, Crawfish Etouffee, Seafood Gumbo and more. Additionally, several well-known music acts such as Chee Weez, Waylon Thibodeaux, Signal 19, Gary T, Chubby Carrier and Amanda Shaw will be taking the stage, getting everyone on their feet. For more details on the festival, call 985-693-7355 or visit FrenchFoodFest.com. It’s only 45 minutes from New Orleans. The Chrysanthemum is the flower of fall. Garden mums can be found everywhere, but Cascading Chrysanthemums are very special and are generally only seen in a few botanical gardens. In November 1963, Bellingrath Gardens and Home premiered its first Cascading Mum Show. Join them this fall as they celebrate the 50th anniversary of Bellingrath’s Cascading Mum Show. The horticulture team has been working for months on new forms and displays for this year’s 50th anniversary show. They have several events and activities planned to help celebrate the glorious display. Share your historic photos and memories in the Mums & Memories Timeline or enter the 50thAnniversary Mum Photography Contest with this year’s photos. Witness the installation of this year’s cascades from Oct. 28–Nov. 1 at the Mum Parade. Enjoy the beautiful “BLOOM OUT!” from Nov. 10-17. Special Mum Walks will be held from Monday, Nov. 11 to Saturday, Nov. 16 at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. For hours, admission and more information, call 800-247-8420 or visit Bellingrath.org. Experience the ultimate locals’ tailgate party before every Saints game just blocks from the 50 yard line at Rouses’ downtown location, 701 Baronne St. Join Rouses chefs for delicious food, cheap drinks

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and a good time before the big game. Bloody marys, beer and the occasional specialty cocktail round out the locals’ favorite pre-game beverages, while burgers, sausages and flavor-packed snacks satisfy your appetite without that stadium mark-up. Start your game day with Rouses and experience a true win-win. Also, don’t miss Rouses at the 2013 Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival Oct.18-20 in Lafayette Square Park, 540 St. Charles Ave. The free festival features blues music from Jonny Lang, James Cotton, Sonny Landreth and others while featuring savory, sweet barbecue from Rouses chefs and other local vendors. For more information on Rouses’ quality foods or to locate the store nearest you, visit Rouses.com. New Orleans is a city with a magical feel, and the character and traditions of the historic French Quarter make walking tours a popular and affordable way for visitors to enjoy the city. French Quarter Phantoms is New Orleans’ premier walking tour company. Offering a variety of unique, entertaining and historically accurate tour options year round makes French Quarter Phantoms the perfect choice for visitors to the city. French Quarter Phantoms’ Master Storytellers have been described as “the strangest bunch of real historians you’ll ever have the pleasure of spending time with!” Their signature tour, the French Quarter Phantoms Ghost & Vampire Tour, features phantoms and the hovering mysteries of past tragedies. They thrill guests with laughs and send chills up their spine, but nobody jumps out to pinch them and the tour is appropriate for all ages. Other tours include: St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, with some of the city’s most infamous tombs; Tour Treme, with a focus on the city’s musical heritage; and the True Crime tour that exposes the dark underbelly of the city’s history. Visit FrenchQuarterPhantoms.com for more.

Dining & Cate r ing This summer, see where amazing history, elegant old world ambiance and delectable Creole cuisine come together at The Court of Two Sisters. Located at 613 Royal St., this restaurant is where locals and visitors from around the world come to enjoy traditional Creole cuisine in the largest courtyard in the French Quarter. Dinner is a romantic, memorable occasion, where entrées include Corn Fried Des Allemands Catfish, Roasted Duck A l’Orange and Louisiana Shrimp and Grits. During the day, the Jazz Brunch Buffet provides a lavish display of hot and cold dishes served alongside live Dixieland jazz.

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Court of Two Sisters is also a favorite destination for special events, providing a unique, elegant setting for wedding receptions, rehearsal dinners and bridal luncheons and showers. Available areas include the courtyard as well as three indoor, private rooms. The Court of Two Sisters sales department is experienced in working with brides and their families to plan the perfect event. For more information as well as full menus, visit CourtofTwoSisters.com or call 504-522-7261. A Japanese restaurant with a New Orleans twist, Chiba is one of the more recent arrivals to the diverse, growing restaurant scene along Oak Street. “Keith [Dusko] and I, as well as our Sushi Chef, James Cooke, really pride ourselves on the quality of the ingredients and fish that we use,” says Tiffany King, co-owner. Careful attention is paid to every detail— even Chiba’s sushi rice is specially prepared using house-made sushi vinegar. Sushi highlights include the Satsuma Strawberry Roll, which incorporates yellowtail, mango, crunch, jalapeño and spicy mayo inside and topped with scallops, strawberries, Satsuma ponzu and wasabi tobiko. A Taiwanese tradition, the steamed buns are a popular appetizer with options of duck, pork belly, short rib, oyster, crawfish, shrimp, grouper and foie gras. “Funk & Roll” happy hour offers reduced prices on drinks and apps from 4-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday, and the most extensive sake menu in the city contains some sakes available nowhere else in the state. “Reverse Happy Hour” is offered late-night, the last hour of each night. For more information and to view the menu, visit chiba-nola.com. For reservations, call 504-826-9119. Copeland’s of New Orleans combines New Orleans flavor and comfort in a casual dining atmosphere. Known for its from-scratch cuisine, Copeland’s is celebrating its 30th anniversary throughout 2013. The 112

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freshest premium ingredients, sauces and seasonings are blended to bring out the robust signature flavors of New Orleans in every dish – seafood, pasta, salads, steaks and more. Enjoy exceptional food and hospitality by stopping at one of several locations. Copeland’s Happy Hour is Monday through Friday 4-7 p.m., and all week from 9 p.m.–close (in lounge only). Happy Hour features half-priced draft and bottles of beer, $5 martinis, half-priced specialty drinks, cocktails and wine, and $5 selected appetizers. For more information on Copeland’s of New Orleans, including menus and locations visit CopelandsOfNewOrleans.com. Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s is a fresh, innovative and exciting dining concept that offers delectable appetizers and a wide variety of New Orleans signature dishes, such as Jambalaya Pasta, BBQ Shrimp Linguine and Stacked Eggplant Napoleon, as well as sandwiches, salads, wraps, burgers and bistro dishes. Additionally, guests enjoy America’s Best Cheesecake with signature toppings like bananas foster and white chocolate strawberry. Cheesecake Bistro’s Happy Hour is Monday through Friday 4-7 p.m., and all week from 9 p.m.–close (in lounge only). Happy Hour features half-priced draft and bottles of beer, $5 martinis, half-priced specialty drinks, cocktails and wine, and $5 selected appetizers. For more information on Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s, including menus and locations visit CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad Thai, sushi, General Tso’s

ADVERTISING SECTION chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late night spot for locals and visitors alike. Visitors can look forward to the addition of sharable small plates to the menu in the near future. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. salt and pepper shrimp and seared Ahi Tuna are a couple of Hoshun’s seafood specialties, while Hoshun pork ribs and butter pepper mignon round out a few of the meatier possibilities. For menu and information, visit HoshunRestaurant.com or call 504302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting between 25 to 70 people. Five Happiness, New Orleans’s award-winning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a newly renovated sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey roasted pecans, General’s chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests. The well-known and affordable Imperial Room is available at Five Happiness for private parties, receptions or other functions and can hold from 50-150 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sit-down dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices ranging from $20-$45 per person. For more information, call 504-4823935 or visit FiveHappiness.com. A self-described “Spirited Restaurant,” SoBou elevates the adult beverage to a level of esteem, a pleasurable accompaniment to a whimsical yet Commander’s quality meal. The latest venture of the Commander’s family of restaurants, SoBou, short for “South of Bourbon,” offers guests

a customizable dining experience, from small plates and drinks to a full three courses. Happier Hour, better than plain old happy hour, is seven days a week when guests can choose sips and snacks for $3 to $6 from 3-6 p.m. Stop in after a day of strolling in the French Quarter and check out the new fall cocktail menu. SoBou, recently named one of America’s “Coolest New Businesses” by Business Insider, invites guests to enjoy the fall weather with a cocktail in their hidden courtyard. For more information and reservations, contact SoBou at 504-552-4095 or online at SoBouNola.com. Commander’s Palace is known to both locals and visitors as a place to enjoy great food and atmosphere in one of New Orleans most beautiful and historical neighborhoods. With its famous jazz brunch, guests are treated to lively jazz music in a beautiful setting. Complimentary walking maps of the Garden District include historical houses and destinations complete with informative blurbs on each one. What better way to burn off the calories of an unforgettable meal than with a stroll around the picturesque Garden District? Or, stop by Commander’s early for a map, and enjoy a stroll before sitting down to the Chef’s Tasting Menu created by James Beard Award-winning chef Tory McPhail. Commander’s Palace – it’s what living in New Orleans is all about. For more information and to make reservations, call 504-899-8221 or visit CommandersPalace.com. Toulouse Gourmet Catering, perfecting the art of fine food presentations since 2005, will enhance any event with its classically trained chef-inspired menus, highlighting flavor profiles from around the globe. Whether you are hosting an event for 1,500 guests or an intimate supper with your closest friends, Toulouse Gourmet will amaze you with its fantastic foods, all created by hand, and presented with style and panache. From classic New Orleans dishes, like the orzo pasta jambalaya, or

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savory creamy shrimp tasso and grits, to more eclectic international dishes, like asian-inspired chicken satay with thai peanut sauce, or Parisian inspired jambon and brie stuffed chicken roulades, toulouse gourmet prides itself in their farm-to-table approach and commitment to sustainability. Available for all events at their venue, The Cannery, or in the privacy of your home or business, Toulouse Gourmet will satisfy your every culinary desire. Call 504-488-4466 today to discuss their special holiday menus for your holiday events. Visit ToulouseGourmet.com. Located in the heart of the French Quarter, on picturesque Jackson Square, Dickie Brennan’s Tableau is a must visit for a true New Orleans experience. The culinary team has revisited the classic style of New Orleans cooking, a combination of European refinement and rustic simplicity. Using the best local ingredients the region has to offer, chef Ben Thibodeaux shines the spotlight on classic New Orleans cuisine, taking those dishes and updating them ever-so-slightly to make them signature items at Tableau. One example is his oysters en brochette, Gulf oysters broiled on rosemary skewers with a roasted garlic beurre blanc. From a sprawling balcony with panoramic views of Jackson Square, to the intimate courtyard and the main dining room with an open kitchen view of the chefs in action, the ambience at Tableau is unparalleled. Run by Dickie Brennan and sister, Lauren Brennan Brower of the famed New Orleans restaurant family, with their partner Steve Pettus, Tableau serves lunch, and dinner daily, brunch on Saturday and Sunday, as well as cocktail service and small plates on the balcony. Visit TableauFrenchQuarter.com. Tucked into the quaint confines of Old Metairie, Chateau du Lac Bistro offers a true French experience, one quite unlike the French Creoleinspired restaurants that dot the tourist-laden streets of the French Quarter. Chef Jacques Saleun was born in Brittany, France, where he began training in classical French cuisine at the young age of 15. Having enjoyed success in the world-class kitchens of Paris and New York City, Saleun has made a home in New Orleans with Chateau du Lac Bistro. Exhibiting a quietly elegant atmosphere true to the cuisine, Chateau du Lac is shaded in yellows and blues, colors found in the cafes of Provence. Saleun’s menu features expertly crafted classics such as white bean cassoulet with duck confit and seared foie gras and escargots. Le steak frites 114

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features a filet mignon, pommes frites and sauce au poivre or bearnaise. With attention to detail, freshness and fondness for simplicity, chef Jacques Saleun and Chateau du Lac Bistro, deliver world-class cuisine with an authentic French touch. For information and reservations, visit ChateauDuLacBistro.com or call 504-831-3773. This fall, “keep calm & get your steak on!” At Ralph Brennan’s café b in old metairie. Café b is offering four new fantastic steaks at dinner with your choice of sauce and choice of side. Steaks include an 8-ounce. Certified Black Angus filet mignon, a 21-ounce bone-in, cowboy-style ribeye, a 14-ounce prime-cut New York strip, and the café b signature hangar steak. Choose from any of café b’s three flavorful sauces: a classic bèarnaise, demi-glace, or café b steak sauce. Side options include garlic frites, mac & 3 cheeses, rosemary fingerling potatoes or brussels sprouts. “Steak” out your seats for football games and enjoy happy hour pricing during all football games: $5 select wines by the glass, $5 specialty cocktails, $5 premium cocktails. Café b is now open for Sunday dinner. For more information, menus and to make reservations, visit cafeb.com.

S hopping Fall has arrived at Saint Germain, and owner Faye Cannon has kicked off the season by bringing in the latest designs by Donald J. Pliner and by Arche, a timeless line of French-made, comfort-focused shoes reintroduced to Saint Germain over the summer. Arche designer boots, shoes and sandals are hand-crafted by artisans located just outside of Paris and are constructed with a 100 percent natural Latex cushioning system for maximum durability, flexibility and unrelenting shock absorption. Both Donald J. Pliner and Arche designs include flat heels and boots in their collections. Along with his own line, Donald J. Pliner and his wife Lisa have introduced an Italian-made Signature collection exclusive to Saint Germain and 20 other stores across the nation. In addition to Arche’s and Pliner’s award-winning shoes, Saint Germain carries French hair accessories, fine and semi-precious jewelry, and handbags by designers from all over the world. To see the latest designs, or for more information, visit SaintGermainNewOrleans.com or call 504-522-1720.

ADVERTISING SECTION Mignon for Children has been a year-round shopping destination for New Orleans parents for more than 55 years, and this fall they are celebrating our beloved Saints with embroidered WHO DAT baby and children’s apparel. For a head start on Halloween, orange and black BOO DAT onesies and tees are also available. New owners, Loftin Brooks and Ashley Nesser, continue to build on the time-honored tradition of offering the best available in babies’ and children’s clothing with a terrific selection of toys, books and gifts. Mignon has recently added a tween section that certainly should not be missed. For more information, or to visit the store, call 504-891-2374 or drop by 2727 Prytania St., at the corner of Washington Avenue (The Rink in uptown New Orleans). Mignon for Children is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and on Saturdays from 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

Fleur d’ Orleans designs are exclusive to their shop and can’t be found anywhere else. Visit charming and bustling Magazine Street for a genuine New Orleans shopping experience. You can also view their exclusive designs online and order with free shipping from their website, FleurDOrleans.com. For more information and hours, call 504-899-5585.

Open Houses

Founded in 1929, Metairie Park Country Day School believes that today’s world demands more than a traditional education; it demands the values and practices that have made Country Day unique since its inception. An innovative, hands-on approach teaches Pre-K through grade 12 students how to think creatively and independently as they tackle an expansive, rigorous curriculum. High academic standards and expectations of personal accountability are sustained by a nurturing community, a low student-to-teacher ratio, robust athletics and outstanding creative arts programs. The Country Day faculty focus on individual achievement For some of the most iconic and traditional New through depth of inquiry rather than mere recitation of facts, and Orleans symbols in art, jewelry, accessories and gifts, mignon for ensure that every child’s experience is exceptional. The successes of be sure to visit the designers at Fleur d’ Orleans at 3701children the graduates in college and beyond are testimony to the curiosity, A Magazine St. Open daily, Fleur d’ Orleans has designed involvement and creativity engendered by the Country Day philosophy more than 150 different pieces of sterling silver jewelry, all of it inspired by art and community. and architectural designs found around the city, which allows many ways to Visit an Admission Open House or e-mail rgreen@mpcds.com for a celebrate and share the design heritage of New Orleans. Whether you need private tour, Monday through Friday. Pre-K Open House: Tuesday, Nov. handmade sterling silver earrings, brooches or pendants, semi-precious jewels 5. Middle & Upper School Open House: Thursday, Nov. 19. Visit set in sterling, beautiful wood blocked textiles and scarves, or handmade paper mpcds.com for more. notecards, you will find a rich array of designer accessories at Fleur d’ Orleans.

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CANCER MEDICAL GUIDE No one should face cancer alone. The New Orleans community is full of resources for individuals and families facing a cancer diagnosis. From preventive measures such as screenings and healthy living, to comprehensive treatment plans, local health care providers have the knowledge, expertise and program offerings to fight alongside patients in the battle against cancer. The city is home to worldrenowned surgeons in a variety of fields as well as award-winning programs by area hospitals and health groups. The following local health care providers are leading the fight against this survivable disease. Finding nearby help for yourself or a loved one is now easier than ever, as so many exceptional programs and physicians are based right here at home.

Cancer Cen te r s & P r ogr a m s Touro Infirmary is proud to be the first hospital in Louisiana to offer the nationally recognized STAR Program® (Survivorship, Training and Rehabilitation) to patients diagnosed with cancer. As part of the STAR Program, patients receive comprehensive, individualized cancer rehabilitation treatment, covered by most insurance plans. Cancer treatment can cause side effects such as fatigue, difficulty with memory or balance problems. Cancer rehabilitation, including physical, occupational and speech therapy, 116

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can help improve these symptoms. The STAR program is designed to help patients return to the activities they love and enjoy a better quality of life and functionality. Learn more about how the STAR program can help you or a loved one suffering from cancer treatment side effects at Touro.com/STAR. Serving Thibodaux and the Bayou Region, the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional has been a leader in the fight against cancer for almost 20 years. Accredited with Commendation by the American College of Surgeons Commission on Cancer and the only

program in Louisiana to receive the college’s Outstanding Achievement Award three times, the center provides comprehensive quality care in a compassionate environment. The Cancer Center utilizes the latest technology, allowing patients to experience many benefits including earlier and more precise diagnosis, detection of small tumors, avoidance of invasive procedures, fewer side effects and better chances for a positive outcome. Chemotherapy and surgical services are provided, as well as a Patient Care Navigation Program in which patients are guided through the cancer care system. The Patient Care Coordinator works to make sure that all patients with positive pathology receive information and assistance to help them obtain timely diagnosis, treatment (if necessary), and follow up. Patients also receive the best in aftercare services, including Home Health Services and Lymphedema Management. To find out more about the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional, visit Thibodaux.com. The LaNasa-Greco Center for Cancer and Blood Disorders at Children’s Hospital treats more than 1,100 children with cancer or blood disorders each year; that’s more than all other facilities in Louisiana combined. The hospital provides treatment for children with leukemia, lymphoma, sickle cell anemia, hemophilia and other childhood cancers and blood disorders. Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Program is accredited with an outstanding achievement award by the American College of Surgeons and is a member of the Children’s Oncology Group (COG), a national study group of premier research institutes in the U.S. and Canada. Hospital physicians have access to the most modern therapies for treatment of malignancies and blood disorders in children. Children’s Hospital recently received accreditation from the Department of Health and Human Services as a federally recognized Hemophilia Treatment Center (HTC), to provide state-of-the-art comprehensive multispecialty care to Louisiana children with all types of bleeding disorders. For more information, contact Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Center at 504-896-9740 or ChNola.org/cancer.

Brain Cancer Patients suffering from brain cancer no longer have to travel out of town for treatment. The doctors at Culicchia Neurological Clinic are skilled in the treatment of tumors of the brain and spine. Clinic Medical Director Frank Culicchia, M.D., is chairman of the LSU Health Sciences Department of Neurosurgery, and, through an association with the LSU School of Medicine, the clinic offers the latest medical options for treatment. The clinic recently opened the new CNC Hearing and

ADVERTISING SECTION Balance Center for the treatment and diagnosis of hearing, balance, facial nerve and skull base disorders, including acoustic neuromas. Culicchia Neurological has offices Uptown, in Slidell and in Marrero. Appointments may be made by calling 504-340-6976 or emailing cnc@ culicchianeuro.com. For more information, visit the clinic’s website: CulicchiaNeuro.com.

Breast Can c e r While many women and men are aware that October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, it’s important also to remember to take the steps to beat breast cancer. For starters, know the recommendations for screening mammograms. If you don’t, see your doctor or visit Cancer.org or Komen.org. Tell family and friends that breast cancer is beatable. In October, West Jefferson Medical Center is offering $100 Screening Mammograms. The Screening Mammogram, with savings of nearly $400, includes a digital screening, computer-aided detection and the radiologist interpretation. To schedule your screening mammogram with our Women’s Imaging and Breast Care Center, please call 504-349-6300. Walk-ins are welcome. (Note: cash, check or credit card is required at the time of service. Insurance will not be filed for this special offer.) The center is located at 4521 West Bank Expressway, Marrero. To learn more, call 504-349-6300. Drs. Frank DellaCroce, Scott Sullivan and Christopher Trahan of the Center for Restorative Breast Surgery (CRBS) are the pioneers of a groundbreaking new breast reconstruction option. A significant technical step forward in the history of breast reconstruction, the BODY LIFT FlapSM procedure allows for an unprecedented power to recreate a new breast for women facing mastectomy. Incision design in the waist gives the benefit of a tummy tuck, a narrowing of the waist, and a buttocks lift as a compliment to the collection of fat to recreate the new breasts. The fat taken from the waist is transplanted in a double layer for each breast when both breasts are to be reconstructed in a single setting. According to a report by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, a staggering 70 percent of breast cancer patients who are eligible for reconstructive surgery are not informed

of the options available to them. Immediate reconstruction is one of the most gratifying options. Patients wake up from surgery with a new and often improved breast and body contour, and most importantly they maintain their sense of wholeness. For more info, visit BreastCenter.com or call 1-888-899-2288. Omega Hospital stands at the forefront of breast cancer and breast reconstruction care, offering top-notch health care in an intimate and luxurious atmosphere. World-class surgeons at Omega Hospital are leaders in breast reconstruction and breast-conserving procedures, giving women more options than ever before. Doctors Ali Sadeghi & Robert Allen are experts in the revolutionary DIEP flap procedure, a

more information visit OmegaHospital.com or call 504-210-3831. Breast cancer is the second most diagnosed cancer among women in the U.S. The Tulane Breast Surgery Center offers state-of-theart screening through the use of 3-D digital mammograms and care for overall breast health. Comprehensive breast care is accomplished by a multidisciplinary team that includes doctors, geneticists, nurses, counselors, physical therapists and specialized technicians. The Patricia Trost Friedler Cancer Counseling Center offers support groups for patients and their family members as well as being a valuable resource library. Tulane’s Board Certified and compassionate plastic surgeons also offer breast reconstruction for those who have had a lumpectomy or mastectomy. Options for reconstruction include use of breast implants, use of a patient’s own tissue or a combination of both depending on what is best for the patient’s health and well being. For a consultation with a plastic surgeon at the Tulane Breast Surgery Center, please contact 504988-8100 or visit CancerIsCurable. com for more information.

K idne y & Pros t at e Cancer

procedure that reconstructs one’s breast from the abdominal tissue. Also known as the “Tummy Tuck” flap, this procedure removes excess skin and fat from the lower abdomen. The DIEP flap operation is superior from procedures of the past in that no muscle is removed, allowing for both a quicker recovery time and maintaining core strength. DIEP flap recipients have the added benefit of receiving natural looking breasts and a tummy tuck simultaneously. Drs. Allen and Sadeghi also perform the PAP and GAP procedures, which take skin and fat from the back of the thigh (PAP) or from the buttock (GAP). They also perform a newly pioneered technique, fat grafting to the breast for rejuvenation and reconstruction. For

Crescent City Physicians, Inc., a subsidiary of Touro, offers the latest in urological care and technology. Dr. Richard Vanlangendonck is a board certified urologist fellowship-trained in minimally invasive urologic surgery with a primary focus on prostate and kidney cancers. Due to advances in robotic technology, prostatectomies and nephrectomies can now be performed in such a way that surrounding nerves may be spared, which offers patients many potential benefits. Patients having robotic prostatectomies typically have reduced side effects from prostate cancer surgery over traditional open surgery. Reduced side effects, as well as the possibility of a partial nephrectomy, are advantages of robotic surgery in dealing with kidney cancer. In partial nephrectomies, only the diseased part of the kidney is removed while sparing the healthy, functioning kidney tissue. Dr. Vanlangendonck uses the state of the art da Vinci® Surgical System in performing these procedures. For more information or to schedule a consultation, call 504-897-7196 or visit Crescent City Physicians online at CrescentCityPhysicians.com.

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Skin Can c e r There are more newly diagnosed skin cancers each year than breast, prostate and colon cancers combined, which is why the doctors and health care professionals at Academic Dermatology Associates (ADA) stress the importance of annual screenings and the awareness of warning signs and potential dangers to skin. Boardcertified Drs. Leonard Gately III, Lee Nesbitt Jr., Brian D. Lee, Michelle Gerdes and Tamela Charbonnet offer annual full body skin cancer screenings to new and existing patients and work to deliver individualized treatments and preventative measures. ADA encourages patients and people everywhere to take precautions in protecting themselves from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Wear protective clothing and apply sun block every two hours while outdoors. A variety of cosmetically elegant sunscreens are available. Combining these precautions with regular screenings is anyone’s best bet for ensuring continued health. The doctors at ADA also treat a full range of skin issues such as chronic and acute conditions like poison ivy and psoriasis, and they provide cosmetic procedures such as Botox, chemical peels and laser treatments. They are located at

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the corner of 14th and Causeway avenues in Metairie. For scheduling, call 504-832-6612.

For more information, visit BehavioralHealthCnC.net or call 504-975-5104.

Men t al Healt h Resources

Ca rdiovascula r Ca re

An interactive, solution-focused therapist, Sharon Heno’s therapeutic approach is to provide support and practical feedback to help clients effectively address personal life challenges. At Behavioral Health Counseling & Consulting, Sharon and her team work with each individual to build on their strengths and attain the personal growth they are committed to accomplishing. Through therapy, Heno’s team develops strategies personalized to you, the individual, to get you back on track and moving forward in life. Consulting and coaching services are available to those needing support in motivation, organization and decision-making. Heno’s work with individuals is personcentered; she meets clients where they are and collaborates with them as they move past obstacles in their lives. She has served on crisis teams as a trauma specialist working with victims of trauma due to grief, loss or violence. Heno also works with local hospitals and community centers offering supportive services to individuals and families with degenerative and terminal illnesses.

In August, Cardiovascular Institute of the South (CIS) celebrated 30 years of providing world-class cardiovascular care to communities in south Louisiana. Since its start in 1983, CIS has made a dramatic impact on the number of hearts, limbs and lives saved in our area. The institute has earned an international reputation for providing state-of-the-art cardiovascular care and is known as a worldleader in preventing and treating both cardiovascular and peripheral arterial disease, also known as PAD. Symptoms of PAD include leg pain, numbness, ulcers or discoloration. Those at risk include anyone over the age of 50, especially African Americans; those who smoke or have smoked; and those who have diabetes, high blood pressure, high blood cholesterol or family history of vascular disease, heart attack or stroke. If you think you may be at risk for PAD or heart disease, contact your doctor. For more information about CIS, call 1-800-425-2565 or visit Cardio.com.

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MEN’S HEALTH From healthy teeth to wiggling toes, a variety of health needs exists for everyone, including men. Don’t ignore your body’s needs this year – your health is your best friend. Ensure years of playing catch with your children and grandchildren by taking simple steps to maintain overall health. Be the reliable friend, brother, husband, father or son that stays fit, limber and jovial despite the challenges life brings your way. The following health care professionals and service providers are just a few of the wellness resources you’ll find across New Orleans. From exhibiting a proud smile to simply staying on your feet, these local leaders can help. Dr. Joseph J. Collura has worked at the forefront of cosmetic dentistry for more than 30 years, providing top quality care and brighter smiles to patients all over the New Orleans region. He specializes in cosmetic dentistry, advanced restorative dentistry, single-tooth to complete mouth implant treatment, root canal therapy, non-surgical gum care and prevention and treatment of bite-related problems, and he has been honored with a guest faculty position with the prestigious Scottsdale Center for Dentistry. The Center, led by world-renowned faculty, provides the latest in programs, seminars and hands-on training. Dr. Collura’s Metairie-based practice features individualized care and advanced methods of cosmetic dentistry. He offers a full range of services to create a healthier, more attractive smile, including tooth-colored fillings, porcelain crowns (caps), porcelain fixed bridges, porcelain veneers, procera

crown and tooth whitening. He is licensed by the Louisiana State Board of Dentistry for conscious sedation and nitrous oxide analgesia. For more information or to make an appointment, visit DrCollura. com or call 504-837-9800. Dale Gedert has focused on foot care for more than 40 years. He brings his expertise to Greater New Orleans with the opening of Therapeutic Shoes, a shopping resource for those suffering from a wide variety of conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, flat feet, heel spurs, plantar fasciitis, bunions, calluses, edema, leg length discrepancies, as well as knee, hip and back pain, and more. “We specialize in custom accommodative foot orthotics, stylish extra depth shoes, diabetic shoes, custom shoes, shoe modifications, compression wear and diabetic socks,” says Gedert. “We’ve got over 175 styles and colors of men’s and women’s shoes.” Therapeutic Shoes features an in-house orthotic lab with certified personnel who handle all custom orthotics and shoe modifications. They offer a large selection of compression wear. Their socks are handmade with bamboo charcoal fiber, seamless and shaped to fit the foot for reducing fatigue and preventing circulation problems. The science your feet need – the comfort you deserve. Therapeutic Shoes is located at 408 Maine St. in Jefferson. For more information and hours, call 504-832-3933.

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PERSONAL BENEFITS ing someone who has the ability and resources to best address those needs is the next. As your Wealth Management Advisor, Emmett Dupas will listen, clarify and help prioritize your goals and aspirations before developing a financial strategy designed to help you achieve your vision for the future. Contact them at 504-620-4801, emmettdupasiii@nm.com, or www.emmettdupasiii.com. No matter how prepared for life we may be, challenges are sure to surface along the way. Financial safety nets, whether in the form of retirement savings or insurance, can help not only prevent a fall but bring added benefits. Planning for your future is an important step in ensuring financial stability for you and your family. Some changes in life are expected; others are not. Financial and health care advisors can help protect your assets in any scenario, and often times, they can help grow them. The region is full of trusted advisors with your best interest in mind. The following committed individuals and businesses are right here in the community and ready to help. Financial success doesn’t happen by chance. It has much more to do with choice. Transforming aspirations into actuality takes acumen, hard work, discipline and strategic financial planning. When it comes to your financial goals, each decision you make and action you take will have a significant impact on your future financial circumstances. A good financial blueprint will lay out what you need to do today to achieve your goals tomorrow. When it’s a matter of planning for the future, realizing the need to take greater control over your financial life is the first step. Choos-

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Since 1992, Anthony J. Cangemi has provided trusted counsel, valuable advice, and financial solutions to people across Greater New Orleans. An Independent Advisor Representative (IAR) and Chartered Retirement Planning Counselor with Crescent City Retirement Group, LLC, Anthony is dedicated to helping people increase their wealth, minimize their taxes, protect their assets, and mostimportantly, maintain their independence. Anthony works with clients to create customized strategies offering principal protection and an income that cannot be outlived. Committed to both clients and the community, Anthony offers time every Sunday on WRNO 99.5FM’s Financial Focus Radio from 11am-12pm. Anthony works hard to ensure that his clients and the people he consults with enjoy this important time in their lives and feel comfortable financially. With a motto of “Retirement Planning… A bridge we can help you cross,” Anthony focuses on five key retirement areas: preservation of capital, tax efficient strategies, income planning, distribution, and health care planning. Schedule a consultation by calling 800-830-0655. The Affordable Care Act (ACA) is bringing major changes to the health care industry and to how people will get care and pay for cover-

age. During this challenging time, Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is committed to providing health guidance and unbiased information to their customers and community. Blue Cross has created a consumer-friendly health care reform microsite. The site — bcbsla.com/reform — includes interactive tools, reform timelines, easy-to-understand infographics and important checklists to help consumers prepare for the ACA’s changes. It also includes videos, new plan options and a premium calculator to help consumers see if they are eligible for government aid to help pay for their premiums. In addition, consumers can sign up for special reform-related newsletters to stay informed. They can also request a quote or to be contacted by a broker for more help. Blue Cross remains dedicated to ensuring Louisianians have access to affordable, quality care and the information they need to make educated choices. Experience IBERIABANK today. With a conservative approach to business, a history of solid performance and a commitment to the communities they serve, IBERIABANK is the top bank in the South, with one of the strongest balance sheets in the country and a history of serving customers like you for more than 125 years. Visit any of their 24 branches in New Orleans and on the Northshore to experience their tradition of excellence firsthand. IBERIABANK has a tradition of excellence and legacy of performance. For more information, visit IberiaBank.com or call 800-682-3231.

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TRYTHIS A

HOW-TO

FOR T H E MON T H

s one gets older, some dreams begin

to fade. One begins to realize that some far-out ambitions are simply not going to come to fruition – like mine, for example, of being hired as a back-up dancer on Beyonce’s world tour or for a Nicki Minaj music video. Although I’m not a dancer talented enough for a back-up dancing career, much less a community theater production of a musical or even most dance parties, dancing is still my favorite way to get exercise and de-stress. Thankfully there are plenty of places to take dance classes in New Orleans, and no experience is necessary. I have been to a lot of dance classes around town: I’ve learned Bollywood-style dances in a sweaty, cramped studio; I’ve taken hip-hop classes in a seedy space under an overpass; I’ve tried underwhelming dance-infused workouts at gyms. But my favorite place to take a dance class is the Dance Quarter (DanceQuarter.com), a veritable dance factory in Uptown that also includes a café. Founded by a French swing-dancing champion, the twostory converted firehouse has several studios, all with high ceilings and plenty of room even when classes are full. There are a lot of partner dance classes, including swing, salsa and tango. A hip-hop class taught by Marissa Joseph is energetic and accessible, helping even the most rigid of movers find a strong, sexy dance persona within. Dance Quarter also has the kind of dance workouts seen on the schedule at many gyms, like the late-night infomercial stalwart Zumba. The movements in those classes tend to be a bit more technical than your average aerobics class, but repetitive combinations make them easy to follow if you have somewhat of an ear for rhythm (if not, freestyling is acceptable). Zumba is a fast but easy-to-follow dance workout that mashes up salsa, reggaeton, African and other music and movement styles. For a slightly more challenging dance workout, there’s Dance Trance taught by Jess Leigh. The combinations are repetitive and connected to the

Health

Dance for the Not So Advanced B Y LA U REN LA B O R D E

songs’ rhythm, but slightly trickier to follow than Zumba. Dance novices can follow along and enjoy the current radio hits that dominate the class playlist, but trained dancers will still feel challenged – and completely out of breath by the end. Dance Quarter classes typically cost $15 per class, with multiple class packages available. Many groups around town also offer free dance classes: Chard Gonzalez Dance Theatre offers free contemporary dance classes Mondays, Wednesdays and Friday evenings at NOCCA (email info@ChardDance.org for details); the New Orleans Ballet Association offers free adult ballet classes (mwhite@nobadance.com); the bars d.b.a. and Spotted Cat offer swing lessons. Even if your budget is tight, there’s no excuse to not find your inner dancing queen (or king).

Banking on stem cells?

Call toll free (866) 400-7333, (985) 867-8002 or visit LifeSourceCryobank.com

Stem cells are a hot medical topic as more and more therapies are approved by the FDA for treatments for bone marrow and blood disorders such as leukemia. LifeSource Cryobank is the only facility in Louisiana that offers cryopreservation of Stem Cells from Umbilical Cord Blood (UCB). Today these cells represent a biological insurance that if a chronic or catastrophic illness strikes, they could save or give a better quality of life to your baby or a close family member. Twenty-five years after the world’s first stem cell transplant, more people are considering privately banking UCB Stem Cells as a biological insurance. – M i r e l l a c a m e r a n

Health

New views on contact lenses

Eyecare Associates, 4324 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 455-9825, EyecareNewOrleans.com

Contact lenses were invented in 1887 in Germany, but they would look very different from the ones worn today by between 28-38 million Americans. One of the latest developments is a water-based lens that’s extremely comfortable to wear. Eyecare Associates in Metairie has been selected as one of the first offices in the New Orleans area to sell this type of lens, called Dailies Total1. They also offer a range of lenses for people who have been previously unsuccessful with contacts or who have been told their prescriptions are too complex. – M . C . myneworleans.com

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The Woman in the Plane B Y ERR O L LA B O R D E

s soon as the main cabin door was closed I made

my move. Though I had already secured an aisle seat, I noticed that the middle section front row behind the bulkhead of this jumbo jet was empty. By moving quickly not only would I still have an aisle seat, but more leg room plus an empty middle seat to allow extra elbow room while crossing the Atlantic. A nod from a flight attendant assured that my maneuver, though done at a time when we were supposed to be docilely buckled in, was OK. On matters of airplane seats I’m at my most evil, being not only calculating but also selfish. My new location was three seats across and I really hoped that no one would take either of the other two. That was not to happen, though. Before the plane started to move, a woman, big of stature who looked a little disheveled, as though she had just run through the airport, claimed the opposite aisle seat. Quickly she shoved her carry-on bag into the overhead bin and stashed her purse beneath the seat. Thankfully, the middle seat remained unoccupied. As the plane rumbled along the tarmac I conceded to myself that I would have to share middle seat space with the woman and that use of the seat’s tray table, which I had hoped to control might have to be time-shared. To my delight, the woman never even glanced at the middle seat. Once we were at cruise level she read magazines for a while and then fell asleep. It would be easier for me to do cartwheels down the aisle than to fall asleep in a plane, so I just sat there pleased that I could stretch my legs, flex my arms, use the middle seat tray and stand up anytime I wanted without getting in anyone’s way. Meanwhile the woman slept. She slept through dinner, breakfast, announcements from the pilot and the shuffle of people standing in line for the nearby restroom. She was even unfazed by two kids three rows back, one who continually screamed and the other who talked at decibel levels higher than the jet engines. Her sleeping seemed normal until much later in the flight at that blessed hour when the plane began its descent. The cabin lights were suddenly turned on in the darkened cabin so that the attendants could make sure that everyone was buckled in, their trays were up and gear was stored. An attendant tried to get the lady to put her purse into the bin but she wouldn’t budge. Gently the attendant shook the woman, but noting happened. The attendant raised her voice and nudged the woman a little harder, but still nothing. As the plane descended, the attendant gave up, placed the purse in the bin herself and glanced in my direction asking me to tell the woman where her purse was. I nodded.

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OCTOBER 2013

myneworleans.com

Suddenly I was the woman’s caretaker – and then I had a horrible thought: what if she was, you know, sort of like, well … dead. I stared at her for signs of life. She certainly slept silently. I thought I could detect slight movement, but that might have been from the plane. Then I had another thought that I was ashamed of myself for thinking. If she was dead, did that mean that we would not be able to get off the plane until some authorities came in to investigate? Was I now a witness? Would she have survived had she had more access to the middle seat? I watched her closely as the plane’s wheels touched the runway: There was a slight bounce, not harsh, but enough to wake up anyone who might be sleeping, except for the woman who remained in her condition. She stayed that way as the flight attendant welcomed everyone to Charles De Gaulle airport and gave the present time. This is the moment when most passengers are primed, ready to bolt the plane at first notice, but the woman didn’t move. If there was going to be questioning I was hoping the gendarmes could speak English. After eight hours afloat the plane approached the arrival gate and came to a stop. Then there was that beloved sound of liberation, the “ping” freeing passengers from captivity. I took another desperate look at the woman and discovered that her subconscious was apparently programmed to the ping. Her eyes shot open. She glanced in my direction. “Your purse is in the bin,” I told her. After all the time we had spent together I thought I might owe her another comment, but then, “I thought you were dead” seemed a little harsh. People who are able to sleep so soundly for so long on planes either have inner-peace or lots of pills. I had neither. If only she could have shared whatever she had with the kids in the third row. ARTH U R NEAD ILL U STRATION