The Insider's Guide to Living Like a Local in France

Use th you is guid r re ntal e to enh a expe rien nce ce! the insider’s guide to

living like a local

~ France ~ prepared for you by

Suzanne Pidduck and

Veteran Traveler Founder of Rentvillas.com

Table of Contents • Contents Introduction...............................................................3 Before You Leave Home...........................................5 What to do from the time your trip is confirmed until the day you get on the plane.

Arriving In France..................................................21 Flying into Paris or other cities, taking the train, and driving in France.

En Route to Your Property.....................................33 Getting cash, calling your key holder, picking up groceries and basic supplies, French cuisine, and recipes.

Making the Most of Your Stay...............................47 Meeting your key holder, etiquette and attitude, bugs and deterrents, keeping the house warm/cool, utilities, and basics of French life.

Regional Highlights.................................................63 Paris, Provence (Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Arles, Lubéron, Marseille), the Côte d’Azur/ Var, Languedoc-Roussillon, Aquitaine/Dordogne (Bordeaux), the Loire Valley, Normandy, Lyon.

Useful Vocabulary.................................................126 Metric Conversions...............................................127

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Introduction • Introduction Use this guide to enhance your rental experience!

Guidebooks are helpful, but most fall short of the “guidance” you need for renting your own property. Why? Because living like a native is nothing like staying in a hotel! Whether you’re packing for your adventure or trying to figure out how to grocery shop in another language, staying in your own home-- away from home-presents a different set of challenges.

We’ve spent years collecting tips, tricks, and general facts geared specifically for the needs of a renter.

Now, we’ve collected them in a book. Part how-to, part insider’s guide, our traveler’s companion is based on our own experiences as renters. You’ll find dining suggestions and recommendations for must-see sights, as well as all the necessary nuts and bolts of traveling to France, such as airport arrivals and surviving on the road.

Bon voyage!

Suzanne Pidduck Rentvillas.com Founder (800) 726-6702 www.rentvillas.com

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Before You Leave Home •

CHAPTER ONE: Before You Leave Home Even after booking your rental, a good deal of planning is needed to make your trip a success. Don’t miss any of the essential details! Read this section to find out what you need to do... …After your trip is confirmed …Three months prior to departure …One month prior to departure …Two weeks prior to departure At the end of this section you will also find a packing checklist and a blank page where you can keep notes about other items you’ll need to remember.

Before

• Before You Leave Home

Before You Leave Home • AFTER YOUR TRIP IS CONFIRMED: Travel Insurance: When you’re investing this much in a trip, you want to ensure that you’re protected if anything goes wrong. That’s why we recommend taking out travel insurance. It’s not often needed--but when it is, boy does it help! A dependable company we often recommend is CSA Travel Protection, found at www.csatravelprotection.com Cooks, Tours, and Extra Services: If you’re thinking of arranging any special services during your stay, the time to do it is now! Cooks are often booked months in advance, so if you’d like a meal prepared the night you arrive you should make arrangements ASAP. Here are a few helpful links to various services in France: • Cook Service: This website (in French) offers a listing of chefs by region. Under “Chefs à Domicile” (Chefs at Home), select “Cliquez pour trouver votre chef” (click to find your chef), and then use the map to find a chef in you area. An email is listed for each chef, so you can dash off a message to him/her.

If you do not speak French, be sure to ask if they speak any English. www.chef-service.com • Dordogne Cook Service: This service offers in-home cooks, arrival-day shopping, cooking courses, and wine tasting. http://perso.wanadoo.fr/villaservice

Before

• Before You Leave Home • Provence Tour Designer: Offers preplanned tours or customized tours depending upon your interests throughout Provence. They can also arrange for airport transfers to your property. www.provence-travel.com • Provence Tours: This company offers rates on a per-person basis, good for small groups. www.ventoux-decouvertes.com • Côte d’Azur Tours: Experienced guides offer half-day and day-long tours around the Côte d’Azur; pick one of their pre-arranged tours or let them help you create your own. www.riviera-tour-guides.com • Paris Tours: This company offers a wide range of options, from hop-on group tours to private excursions with a chauffeur. www.magic.fr/paris-tours-guides • Hot Air Balloon Rides: If you dream of drifting on the breeze over the French countryside, check out this helpful website. www.france-montgolfiere.com

Before You Leave Home • THREE MONTHS PRIOR TO DEPARTURE: Documents: It’s a good idea to make copies of all your travel documents before you leave. Pack the copies separate from the originals. Make a travel itinerary, complete with flight numbers, addresses, and phone numbers; take one copy with you and leave another at home with someone who can be contacted easily.

• Passport: Needless to say, you must have your passport with you. Make sure that it is up to date and will not expire during your trip. If you loose your documents while in France, you should contact the U.S. Embassy in Paris: 2 Avenue Gabriel, 75382 Paris. Tel: (+33) 01 4312 2222.

• Rental Voucher: Watch the mail a few weeks before your departure date for an envelope from us.

This will contain your property voucher, including the local name (which will probably be different from our unique name) and address of your property and any directions needed for getting there. You will need to show this document to the key holder when you arrive, so don’t leave it behind!

Arrange for Car Rental: If you are staying outside of a large city like Paris, you’ll want to rent a car. All major car rental companies are represented in France.

You must be at least 21 to rent a car. Insurance policies vary, so be sure to check into your company’s policy before you leave home. For the lowest rates

Before

10 • Before You Leave Home and the best selection, we recommend Autoeurope (www.autoeurope.com).

If you will be renting for more than 17 days, you may wish to consider leasing a car instead. Renault Eurodrive (www.eurodrive.renault.com) specializes in this service, and Autoeurope offers the option as well. You may also want to consider choosing a car with GPS (or taking one with you) to avoid getting lost. When you pick up your rental car, make sure to ask whether it takes diesel or not (if possible, request diesel when you reserve the car; it’s a much better value in France). ***CAR RENTAL DISCOUNT:*** So many of our clients use Autoeurope that they’ve decided to give Rentvillas.com customers a 10% discount! Here’s how to get it: • Call 1-800-730-8036 • At the beginning of your conversation, state clearly that you are a Rentvillas client.

• Give the service representative the following discount code: 12-008103 Please note that our discount cannot be combined with any other specials that are in effect.

Travel Supplies: For travel supplies of every kind, from travel pillows to luggage to all manner of computer and phone related adaptors, we recommend MAGELLAN’S (www.magellans.com). For a free catalog, call (800) 962-4943.

Before You Leave Home • 11 ONE MONTH PRIOR TO DEPARTURE: Cell Phones: Because of widespread use of cell phones in Europe, many property owners are pulling out their land lines. So be aware that your rental may not have a phone unless specifically stated in the description.

Cell phones are also very convenient for communicating on-the-go or calling ahead for directions if you get lost en route! For these reasons, you may want to consider obtaining a cell phone to use while in France.

Here’s how: • Ask your phone company if your cell phone is a GSM that can be “unlocked” for widespread use.

You can then purchase a prepaid cell phone SIM card (a small chip that inserts into your phone) in France (at a phone shop), or before you get there. Cellular Abroad (www.cellularabroad.com) will ship your SIM card to you before you leave. Minutes can be added to the SIM card at gas stations and tobacco shops.

• If you don’t have a GSM phone, you can purchase or rent a GSM phone. Again, Cellular Abroad is a good option.

Laptop & Internet Options: If you’ll be taking your laptop with you on the trip, this is the time to make sure you have everything you need to function. The current in France is 220-240 volts (110 in the US),

Before

12 • Before You Leave Home so ensure that your laptop can handle the change. If not, you’ll need a current converter, which can be purchased at MAGELLAN’S (www.magellans.com).

You will probably also need a European plug adaptor.

If your rental has a phone line, you will need to bring a phone cord to plug into the wall. Remember to check with your ISP to see if they provide a dial-up number in your area (if not, try AOL or Earthlink). You could also try Wanadoo, a popular French ISP. A simpler way to get connected is to go wireless. You can purchase a European compatible wireless card at www.sierrawireless.com/product/ac850.aspx.

If you won’t be bringing your laptop, you can still access the internet from one of the many cyber-cafés scattered across the country. You can find a listing of cafés in France on www.cybercafes.com.

Before You Leave Home • 13 TWO WEEKS PRIOR TO DEPARTURE: Rental Voucher: You should have received this document in the mail by now. Your rental voucher includes the local name (which will probably be different from our unique name) and address of your property and any directions needed for getting there. You will need to show this document to the key holder when you arrive, so don’t leave it behind! Pack it with your other important documents and make a copy to carry separately. You may want to try locating your property on www.viamichelin.com. Please note that some countryside locations may not have an exact “street address.”

The directions may seem a little confusing when you first read them. However, the road system in France is different than it is the US, and it is likely that the directions will make sense once you are on the road. But if you do get lost, don’t panic! You can always stop and call the contact listed on your voucher.

Money: You may want to have some foreign currency on hand before you depart; it will come in handy for those initial bus, train, or taxi fares, as well as for security deposits (most require cash upon arrival) at your property. To purchase Euros before leaving the U.S., visit www.ordercurrency.com or www.purchasecurrency.com. You can pay for the currency by check or credit card, and it will be delivered to you within 24 to 48 hours. Another option

Before

14 • Before You Leave Home is changing money at the airport upon your arrival in France. Don’t depend on withdrawing all of the money you need from an ATM when you arrive, as most ATMs (and bank cards) have daily withdrawal limits.

If you’ll be using a credit card or a bank card in France, call your bank and let them know when you’ll be traveling. For security, many banks and credit card companies will lock a card if they suddenly see a purchase in another country.

Weather Considerations: If you pack sensibly and read up on the seasonal climate shifts in the regions you plan to visit, France won’t deliver any major weather surprises. As a rule of thumb, it’s smart to stay away from the mountains in November through May unless skiing is on your agenda. Similarly, coastal areas, such as Brittany, aren’t particularly desirable in the colder months, although the Mediterranean is fairly mild all year. In general, the weather in Northern France is rainy and variable, while south of the Loire things warm up a bit. Paris is a lot like New York in terms of weather, though never quite so bitterly cold or miserably humid as the Big Apple. On the West Coast, the Atlantic stirs up frequent storms (and big waves), even in summer. France’s eastern and central regions have cold winters and hot summers. You’ll find the best weather along the Mediterranean and on Corsica, where the winter is short and the summers stay nice and hot well into October. Of course, it’s smart to re-

Before You Leave Home • 15 view the local weather forecast before leaving on a trip.

For the best information on weather in France, visit www.weather.com. For a French site dedicated to local forecasts, try www.meteoconsult.fr.

Before

16 • Before You Leave Home PACKING CHECKLIST: After twenty-odd years of renting properties in Europe, we’ve compiled the following list of useful items to bring along (please note that many of these items will need to go in your checked luggage):

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Plastic cutting board and serrated knife Pocket knife with screwdriver and corkscrew Kitchen/scrub sponge (cheaper and more durable in the US) Baggies and zip-lock bags in various sizes Rubber bands and twist ties Matches Salt and pepper Spices in zip-lock bags Extra batteries for cameras, etc.

Small flashlight Emergency TP or tissue pack Small pack of hand wipes or baby wipes 1-2 bars of bath soap Washcloths (not usually available in France) Powdered detergent in zip-lock bag Laundry stain stick for spots Travel alarm clock Pocket calculator (for currency conversion) Personal music player with small speakers

Before You Leave Home • 17

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String bag or “pocket” backpack for shopping Ear plugs - you never know!

Money belt or pouch Paperback French cookbook For kids: Powdered drink mix to stir into regular or fizzy water certainly beats the cost of bottled drinks, and it’s easy to transport!

Small portable book light Old pillowcase in case of scratchy bed linen.

Use it to store dirty clothes on the trip home.

Comfortable walking shoes Old pool towels (you can leave behind) Small umbrella - regardless of the season Slippers or flip-flops - for cold floors Insect repellant (see “Mosquitoes, Screens, and Deterrents,” Chapter 4) A GSM-compatible cell phone - your own or rented A pocket English-French dictionary

Before

18 • Before You Leave Home NOTES:

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Before You Leave Home • 19 NOTES:

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Before

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Arriving in France • 21

CHAPTER TWO:

Arriving

Arriving In France Now that you’ve booked your property and (hopefully!) a flight into France, it’s time to think about how you’ll get from the airport to your property. Check out this section to find information about what to do if you’re... …Flying into Paris …Flying into other cities in France …Flying from Paris to another city …Taking the train out of Paris At the end of this chapter you will also find a section about driving in France. Brush up on this chapter before getting into your rental car!

22 • Arriving in France FLYING INTO PARIS: Paris is serviced by two major airports. Confirm the airport and terminal number with your airline prior to your arrival. It may be helpful to know that the French word for “information desk” is acceuil.

Orly is located 15 miles south of Paris and serves mostly domestic and charter flights. It has two main terminals: Ouest (most international flights) and Sud. Roissy, better known as CDG (Charles de Gaulle), is located 15 miles north of Paris and serves mostly international flights. The two main terminals at this airport are Roissy 1 (most non-Air France flights) and Roissy 2 (mostly Air France flights and flights to/from the United States, with 6 main concourses 2A - 2F).

Here are your options for getting into the city from the airport:

• Shuttle and Transfer Services: Although this is the most expensive option for getting into the city, it is certainly the most comfortable after a long flight.

Here are some companies to contact online: http://conciergerie.parishuttle.com www.france-limo.com www.airport-shuttle.com www.parishuttle.com • Taxi: If you take a taxi from the airports into the center of Paris, keep in mind that the cost depends upon traffic conditions (morning rush hour can clog

Arriving in France • 23 the A1 freeway). In addition, there will be an extra charge for each piece of luggage and for a 4th passenger. Prices are higher on evenings and weekends.

It is your responsibility to have the correct amount of cash available. The customary tip is 10%.

Arriving

• Bus: Roissybus runs to/from Roissy (CDG) and takes you into Paris (9 rue Scribe near the famous Opera Garnier, in the heart of Paris). The journey takes about 45-60 minutes. From there you can take le métro (the subway) to all parts of the city.

Orlybus runs to/from Orly and takes you to the metro station Denfert-Rochereau, a 45-minute ride. All buses run every 15-20 minutes from 6:00 to 23:00 (that’s 6 AM to 11 PM; the French use the 24-hour clock). Each airport/terminal has a clearly indicated bus stop and you can buy your ticket on the bus.

• Air France Bus: Air France operates buses between Roissy, Paris and Orly, which are available to all airline passengers. The buses to/from Roissy (CDG) stop at the Arc de Triomphe (metro stop Place de L´Etoile), and the buses to/from Orly stop at the Invalides and Tour Montparnasse metro stations. All run every 15-20 minutes from 5:40 to 23:00, and the travel time is about 45 minutes. Each airport/terminal has a clearly indicated stop and you can buy your ticket on the bus.

• RER: Another possibility is the RER (Ligne B), the long distance version of the métro. The RER

24 • Arriving in France departs from outside the terminals Orlyval (at Orly airport) or CDG II (at Charles de Gaulle). The line as has 7 stops within Paris. Free buses operate between the terminals and the RER stations. Senior citizens or travelers with small children and/or heavy luggage may find this mode of transportation difficult. Travelers should also be aware that using the RER outside of regular hours or workdays can be confusing and possibly unsafe.

Arriving in France • 25 FLYING INTO OTHER CITIES IN FRANCE: If your flight will be arriving at another major airport in France (such as Bordeaux, Marseille, or Nice), visit www.worldairportguide.com. This site provides local airport maps, telephone numbers, facilities, and transportation information for all major European airports.

Arriving

FLYING FROM PARIS TO ANOTHER CITY: Rather than renting a car in Paris and driving to your property, you may be able to get closer by flying from Paris to Nice, Marseille, Avignon, etc., and renting a car there. (See Chapter One for car rental information.)

• Air France (www.airfrance.fr) offers approximately one flight every hour to several French cities. You will also want to check flights on • Easy Jet (www.easyjet.com) and • Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com), two of Europe’s most popular discount airlines. Please note, however, that while the flights may be cheap, they often depart out of secondary airports, necessitating transfers from one airport to another.

26 • Arriving in France TAKING THE TRAIN OUT OF PARIS: You may also wish to consider taking the TGV train from the Charles de Gaulle airport into Paris, and from there to your destination. France has one of the best train systems in the world: both comfortable and fast. For schedules and fares to other French cities, visit www.sncf.com or www.raileurope.com.

DRIVING IN FRANCE: Driving in France is about the same as driving in any other European country--hair-raising at best! You may be on the road for the first time abroad, so we’ve assembled some pointers specifically for driving in France: • Speed Limits:

Freeway (Autoroute): 130 km/h

Highway (Route Nationale) 90-110 km/h

City: 50 km/h.

• Passing is only permitted on the LEFT hand side of the vehicle.

• Yellow Lights mean “stop,” not “go faster.”

• Right on Red is not permitted in France.

• Roundabouts: You will find roundabouts (rond-points) just about everywhere in France. They are very practical and quite convenient once you get the hang of them! Note that incoming traffic does not have the right-of-way (with the exception of the Arc de Triomphe/Etoile in Paris).

• Parking: Parking is almost never free in France.

Arriving in France • 27 Free parking spaces are called parking non-payant (paid parking is parking payant). In cities, parking can be extremely expensive. The normal routine requires that you locate the horodateur (parking attendant), buy the ticket, and put it in your car behind the windshield. Very often, the parking payant is free before 8 AM, between 12-2PM, after 7PM, and on Sundays and national holidays.

• Tolls: Freeways in France are expensive but they are efficient and well maintained. There are two different types of gares de péage (toll stations).

You either receive a ticket (to be paid upon exit) at the freeway entrance, or you pay upon entrance with coins or a credit card.

• Roadside Tips:

♦ Freeways are indicated with blue signs.

♦ Highways and national roads are indicated

with green signs.

♦ BIS indicates alternative and usually scenic

routes.

♦ Drivers will often flash their headlights

behind you just before passing (or to indicate

that they would like to--it is considered polite

to comply).

• Buying Gas: If you’re filling up your gas tank for the first time in France, be aware of the following in order to avoid unpleasant surprises: ♦ Gas is very expensive in France. Diesel is a much better value, and quite common; 50% of

Arriving

28 • Arriving in France all French cars run on diesel. ♦ Gas is a lot less expensive at the supermarket.

All major supermarkets sell gas for about 2025% less than gas stations. If you can, avoid buying gas along the autoroutes where prices are much higher. ♦ Fill up your car first and pay the cashier afterwards.

• Driving in Paris: Should you find yourself with a rental car in Paris, here are a few basic rules to keep in mind: ♦ Don’t wait for someone to let you in. Be quick and determined. ♦ Don’t be shy: use your horn! ♦ Stay alert: Have a travel companion read the map and give directions. ♦ React immediately; often, you won’t have time to signal. ♦ Parking spots are small and rare; you may be required to use your bumpers in order to get in.

Arriving in France • 29 INTERNATIONAL ROAD SIGNS:

Arriving

30 • Arriving in France NOTES:

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Arriving in France • 31 NOTES:

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En Route

32 •

En Route to Your Property • 33

CHAPTER THREE:

En Route to Your Property

…Getting cash …Calling your key holder

En Route

After you’ve arranged to get to your property, what should you do just prior to showing up at the front door? Check this section out for tips on...

…Picking up basic supplies …Grocery shopping (with shopping list) At the end of this chapter you will also find a section about French cuisine. Consult this section for some easy French recipes or brush up on vocabulary before going out to eat. Bon appétit!

34 • En Route to Your Property CASH: If you don’t have Euros with you, now is the time to get some at the airport. Exchange U.S. Currency at a money changing window or withdraw cash from an ATM (be aware that ATM machines or your card often have a daily withdrawal limit).

CALLING YOUR KEY HOLDER: Many key holders will request that you call in advance of your arrival so that they don’t have to wait at the property for several hours. One of the many advantages to having a GSM cell phone (see Chapter One) with you upon arrival is that you can easily call the key holder to advise them of any change in your arrival time.

If you need to make a call from a public phone at the airport, coin-operated public telephones are no longer used. You will need to buy a telephone card at a post office, tobacco shop, or newspaper stand. In France, all phone numbers are ten digits, starting with zero. If you call into France from another country, first dial 33 (the international access code) and then the number, dropping the initial zero. For example, the number for the American Embassy in Paris is 01 4312 2222 from within France and +33 1 4312 2222 from outside.

En Route to Your Property • 35 PICKING UP BASIC SUPPLIES: Most of our properties are privately owned, so the provisions in the house will vary according to owner.

For example, some owners will provide a good supply of toilet paper, soap and basic food items; others will provide the bare minimum. It is best to expect the latter. Therefore, it is very important to stop at a grocery store prior to arrival at your property for a few supplies that will see you through the first day or two. This is doubly important if you are arriving on Saturday, since most stores will be closed on Sunday. For a sample grocery list, keep reading...

En Route

GROCERY SHOPPING: Shopping for food in France is a very enjoyable experience. The major food chains include Monoprix, Intermarché, Franprix, Carrefour, E. Leclerc, Champion, and Casino. Hint: Check Chapter Five for local street markets in your area, which are a pure delight of fresh food and Comedia dell’Arte. Here’s a brief rundown of shopping details: • Carts: Many supermarkets lock their carts together. To release a cart, insert a coin into the cart lock. To get your money back, simply re-lock the cart.

• Decoding Dairy Products: France is famous for its cheeses. Don’t forget to sample as many different varieties as you are able to stomach, or, should

36 • En Route to Your Property we say, smell! Many other products made from milk line the grocery store aisles, and we still can’t tell the difference between yogurt, crème fraîche, fromage blanc, fromage frais, and so on. Hint: Lait demiécrémé is low-fat milk, while lait écrémé is skim.

• Payment: Most stores take credit cards, but there is usually a minimum purchase amount; ask before shopping. Smaller grocers accept cash only.

Note that most produce must be weighed. Unless otherwise indicated, all items are sold by the kilo (about 2.2 lbs). Typically, there are automatic scales in the grocery departments of large stores. Place your bag on the scale, select the button that matches the produce in your bag, and the machine will generate a price sticker. If you don’t see a scale, your produce will be weighed at the checkout counter.

• Bagging: You are expected to bag your own food at the checkout line. A small charge is often applied for the plastic bags. Remember to save your grocery bags and reuse them as trash bags at your property!

• Hours: Most shops and service companies open at 9 AM and close at 7 PM. However, in some small towns you will find the local épicerie (small grocer) open until 10 PM. On Sunday, just about all stores are closed, and many small businesses tend to close on Monday morning too, especially in the south. In addition, many small towns/businesses close for lunch between 12 PM and 2 PM.

En Route to Your Property • 37 EnLIST: Route SAMPLE SHOPPING

□ Jam □ Broth (canned or Knorr cubes) □ Ground pepper & salt □ Onions & shallots □ Dish soap & cleanser □ Seasonal fruits & vegetables □ Herbs (parsley, cilantro, basil, oregano, etc.) □

□ Cheeses □ Bouquet garni (aromatic herbs) □ Lemons & lemon juice □ Bread & croissants □ TP & paper towels □ Fresh meat (roast chicken, charcuterie) □

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Food

Do as the French do--shop for fresh food and groceries each day! Here’s what you’ll find in our cart: □ Olive oil & vinegar □ Milk, tea, coffee □ Garlic □ Pasta □ Dijon mustard □ Eggs □ Yogurt □ Cereal

38 • En Route to Your Property FRENCH CUISINE: • Breakfast: Without a doubt, breakfast is the least important meal of the day in France. It rarely consists of more than coffee, a croissant, or the ubiquitous baguette.

• Lunch: Socially, lunch has a very important role in France. When French families gather around the lunch table on a weekend, they remain there well into the afternoon. Lunch can be an occasion to visit with family members and discuss everything under the sun. A traditional lunch consists of an apéritif (a drink enjoyed before a large meal), entrée (appetizer, not to be confused with the English “entree”), green salad, plat principal (main course), fromage (cheese), dessert, and café (coffee). The meal is occasionally finished off with a digestif, an after-dinner drink.

• Apéritif: Another French institution is the apéro (or apéritif). Taken in late afternoon or early evening, this drink can be an evening starter. The most common brands are Porto, Pastis, or Martini, usually accompanied by chips or peanuts. Specific customs will vary according to region.

• Restaurant Etiquette: Although you are welcome to order single dishes à la carte, for a formal meal at a nice restaurant the French usually order what is called le menu, which consists of at least three courses for either lunch or dinner. A classic menu may start with an apéritif, followed by the en-

En Route to Your Property • 39 Route trée (appetizer). YouEn will then need to choose a plat principal of fish or meat (it will be difficult to find a vegetarian dish) before you finally finish with the dessert or fromage. Hint: Unless you feel particularly obliged to leave something for the waiter, tipping is not customary.

• Wine: Most restaurants offer a large selection of wines. You will almost always find Bordeaux and Bourgogne (Burgundy), and perhaps Cahors. Here are some special reccommendations: ♦ Coteaux d’Aix en Provence: This appelation offers some solid wines with interesting aromas and harmonious structures: Château Calissanne (red), Domaine des Béates (red), St. Hilaire (rosé), Château Revelette (said to be the best Coteaux d’ Aix; indeed, the wine is fabulous). ♦ Bandol: The Provençal wine with the best reputation and within the “major leagues” of French wines. The reds develop a powerful aroma of spice and pepper and have a remarkable color. The white wines are fairly simple, whereas the rosés are surprisingly good. ♦ Châteauneuf du Pape: Deep and almost brownish in colour, very aromatic, high alcohol content. ♦ Gigondas, Vacqueras, & Rasteua: Affordable, quality wines similar to the Châteauneuf du Pape.

Food

40 • En Route to Your Property SIMPLE FRENCH RECIPES: • Salade de Saucisson: You will need a hard French salami of good quality (saucisson), escarole, Dijon mustard, olive oil, red wine or raspberry vinegar, garlic, salt, and black pepper.

1) In a bowl, toss the washed escarole leaves with the following vinaigrette: 2 tsp Dijon mustard, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp red wine or raspberry vinegar, 2 tsp crushed garlic, salt and black pepper.

2) Thinly slice the saucisson.

3) Arrange the salad on a large plate and the saucisson slices around the periphery.

Suggestion: Serve with hard-crust bread and a glass of Cahors or Bourgogne wine.

• Soupe de Poissons à la Provençale: You will need ½ lb of skinless haddock or halibut fillets (fresh or frozen); 1 small fennel bulb, 3 cups of vegetable or chicken broth (or Knorr cubes), 1 onion, 1 small yellow squash, 1 lemon or orange, 3 large tomatoes, fresh thyme, 3 garlic cloves, a glass of dry white wine, salt, and black pepper.

1) In a large saucepan, combine the fennel bulb (cut in half lengthwise and slice thinly), broth, onion (finely chopped), 1 cup of cubed squash, 1 cup of white wine, 1 tbsp of finely shredded orange or lemon peel, and 3 minced cloves of garlic.

En Route to Your Property • 41 Enreduce Route heat. Cover and sim2) Bring to boil; mer for 10 minutes.

3) Stir in 8 oz. skinless fillets or equivalent, cut into 1-inch pieces.

4) Add 2 cups of chopped tomatoes and 2 tbsp of snipped fresh thyme.

5) Cook 3 min. or until fish flakes easily.

Suggestion: Serve with the remaining wine and toasted slices of country bread, brushed with olive oil or garlic.

• Salade du Bistro: You will need watercress, radicchio, Belgian endive, blue cheese, walnuts, garlic, Dijon mustard, oil, vinegar, salt, and black pepper.

1) Mix watercress (or equivalent) with radicchio (an Italian green) and endive leaves.

2) Add crumbled blue cheese and walnuts.

3) Season with a vinaigrette made of Dijon mustard, olive oil, red wine vinegar, crushed garlic, salt, and black pepper.

4) Serve with baguette.

Food

• Ratatouille: You will need 4 eggplants, 4 squash, 1 lb of tomatoes, 2 peppers, 3 onions, 1 fennel bulb, 2 garlic cloves, 1 bouquet garni, 6 canned artichoke hearts, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Alternative: you can buy the ratatouille readymade in cans at any grocery store.

1) Use a large skillet, heat ½ cup of olive oil and

42 • En Route to Your Property brown the vegetables (peeled and sliced) separately, then transfer them to a large saucepan: starting with the eggplants, then the squash, then the tomatoes, peppers and onions.

2) Add a fennel bulb cubed, 2 garlic cloves, a bouquet garni, salt and pepper to the saucepan.

3) Cover and simmer a low heat for 1 hour to 90 minutes. If there is too much juice, discard during cooking.

4) Add sliced artichoke hearts and season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Suggestion: ideal warm with rice or pasta to accompany chicken, veal, steak or ground meat; also excellent cold as a summer starter with country bread. • La France, Tout Simplement (Simply France): Go to an outdoor market and buy a selection of good local cheese, breads, red and white grapes, and wine. Arrange the cheese, bread, and grapes on a large plate. Enjoy with good company!

Suggestion: Serve with a salad of mixed greens, fruit, and a strong vinaigrette (Dijon mustard, olive oil, red wine vinegar, crushed garlic, salt, and pepper).

En Route to Your Property • 43 MY SHOPPING En Route LIST:

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Food

44 • En Route to Your Property NOTES:

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En Route to Your Property • 45 En NOTES: Route

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Food

46 •

Making the Most of Your Stay • 47 En Route CHAPTER FOUR:

Making the Most of Your Stay Now that you’ve arrived at your property, here are some tips to help you make the most of your stay. If you know what to expect, your experience abroad will be an enriching cultural experience... so go in with an open mind and be ready to learn something new! Review this section to learn about... …Meeting the key holder/manager …Etiquette and attitude

…Keeping the house warm or cool …Plumbing and electricity

Tips

…Mosquitoes, screens, and deterrents

…Salutations This chapter concludes with a section on French life.

Make sure to browse these topics for helpful hints about daily life in France, including banks and money, national holidays, mail/stamps, strikes, your safety, doctors, public bathrooms, private bathrooms, beds, laundry, newspapers, and coffee makers.

48 • Making the Most of Your Stay MEETING THE KEY HOLDER/MANAGER: You have now arrived at your property to meet the key holder or manager. Here are some important issues to keep in mind.

• Language: What will you do if he/she speaks no English (pretty likely)? Have a pocket dictionary in hand, a sense of humor, and patience! Remember, he/she is used to meeting “foreigners.”

• Contact Info: Get his/her telephone number for any questions during your stay.

Name: _________________________

Tel.#: __________________________

• Appliances: Get an explanation of the appliances before the keyholder leaves; don’t just nod your head and assume that you will figure it out!

FYI the washing machines in Europe are generally smaller in size than those in the U.S., and they are more energy efficient (translation: they take about 1.5 - 2 hours per load). You will sometimes find a clothes dryer, but if so, it will also be small in size and energy efficient.

• Important Info: Ask if there is a House Book.

Otherwise, find out where the nearest market, pharmacy, restaurants, and fun activites are!

• Trash and Recyling: Find out where the nearest trash receptacle (poubelle) is located, since you are responsible for taking out your own trash. Garbage is usually placed in large trash containers that

Making the Most of Your Stay • 49 En Route you will see along roads and city streets. Your plastic grocery bags make handy trash bags, so don’t throw them away! Recycling is practiced throughout Europe, so bag your bottles and cardboard separately.

You will see the receptacles near the garbage bins.

• Fuse box: Finally, ask for the location of the fuse box and find out what you need to do if the power goes out!

PROPERTY NOTES

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Tips

50 • Making the Most of Your Stay ETIQUETTE AND ATTITUDE: Like every country, France has its own peculiarities.

The French are often criticized for what Americans perceive as “rude behavior.” In actuality, the French uphold a tradition of public formality and distance.

They will not be instantly familiar with you; in fact, familiarity is often interpreted as invasiveness, hypocrisy, or flakiness. In private, however, the French are much more relaxed, and are extremely genuine and reliable once they’ve gotten to know you.

The French are also highly individualistic and will do whatever they want, which may be perceived as carelessness or selfishness. In reality, it’s just a strong sense of freedom and independence. Just like we do, the French take great pride in their country, its history, culture, food, and style.

In France, eating, dressing, and communicating are all an art form. Food and wine are an important component of French life. People sit down to eat, read menus in detail, listen to waiters’ recommendations, and take time to enjoy the food.

Dress is a carefully elaborated form of expression, especially in Paris, and French will tend to treat you according to what you wear. Although shorts and sneakers are now seen everywhere, such clothing will identify you as a tourist.

Communication is important in France; people spend

Making the Most of Your Stay • 51 Route endless hours debatingEn and philosophizing topics that are considered taboo or politically incorrect by most Americans--so be prepared to speak your mind!

Although most French people are much more tolerant with non-French speakers than they are reputed to be, they will expect you to make the initial effort. They are also generally more comfortable with English than you might expect.

As with any cultural experience, be prepared for a few differences. Respect the culture you’re visiting and remember to have an extra measure of patience. Finally, keep in mind that the French way of life isn’t “bad” or “rude,” it’s just different.

MOSQUITOES, SCREENS, and DETERRENTS: Most French homes do not have window screens. The primary reason for this is because they “spoil the view.”

Beyond that, they simply aren’t as important in France as they are in America. For this reason, you should come prepared to deal with mosquitoes and other flying insects, particularly in countryside villas. Small plug-in devices can be found in all grocery stores and are quite effective. If you’re really allergic, you might also consider bringing some mosquito netting and masking tape to seal off bedroom windows.

Tips

52 • Making the Most of Your Stay KEEPING THE HOUSE WARM OR COOL: It’s important to understand that in Europe, and France in particular, energy costs will be much higher than you are accustomed to at home. So if you’ll be using either air conditioning or heating, do so conservatively.

During the warmer months, it is common practice to close the shutters in the early part of the day and open them again in the evening. This is an easy and practical way of utilizing the natural construction of the house to keep your environment nice and cool. When you get up in the morning, close up your bedroom on the way out. And if you’ll be out exploring for the day, take a few minutes to close up the entire house. You’ll be pleasantly surprised when you come home!

If you are traveling during the colder months, try “alternate” methods for keeping warm before you turn up the heat: bring warm socks and/or slippers, make coffee or tea, use the fireplace if one is available, and put any extra blankets on the beds. Also close doors to rooms that aren’t in use to prevent heating extra space.

Do note that heating is the most expensive utility, so if you are traveling during the winter, adjust your budget to account for the heating bill.

Making the Most of Your Stay • 53 En Route PLUMBING AND ELECTRICITY: One of the reasons why we travel to France is to enjoy the historic atmosphere created by buildings that have been around for generations. But the price that has to be paid for conserving such structures is a lower standard and a much higher cost for plumbing and electricity.

Builders and remodelers find creative ways to integrate modern technology into these historic buildings, but it’s not always perfect--so if something goes wrong, have a little patience... It’s a cultural experience! Call the number on your voucher and your keyholder will do his or her best to resolve the problem.

To avoid having such problems in the first place, think conservatively. Using no more than one or two appliances at a time will save you from blowing a fuse. Try not to take long showers or flush a lot of toilet paper, and make sure the drain is clear of hair after you shower. Also, due to the fact that energy and water costs are very much higher than we’re used to, try to be energyconscious in whatever you do... particularly if you will be paying the costs of your utilities!

Tips

54 • Making the Most of Your Stay SALUTATIONS: Amongst people in their early 20’s, the most typical French salutation is la bise. Faire la bise means “to kiss” and is not limited to female/male or female/female relationships. Nor is it requred that both parties know one another. When young people are introduced at a party, for example, la bise usually serves as their salutation. For the older set, however, la bise is uncommon for a first meeting; a handshake serves as initial contact between strangers. Once people know each other well, they may faire la bise. Among men, la bise is practiced only when they know each other well, most commonly in southern France.

For a proper execution of la bise, note that you don’t actually kiss the other person on the cheek. Put your cheek against the other person’s cheek, add a little smacking noise with your mouth, and keep looking straight ahead! Repeat this action on the other cheek.

For many young people, a second common salutation is ça va? This is the equivalent of “how’s it going?” The typical response is ça va, et toi? (“Good, and you?”) For most people over 25, however, ça va? is considered too familiar. The older set will usually say comment vas-tu? or, more politely, comment allezvous? Proper replies are très bien, et toi? or très bien, et vous?

Making the Most of Your Stay • 55 FRENCH LIFE:

En Route

Tips

• Banks/Money: Standard banking hours are between 9 AM and 5:30 PM; in smaller towns the banks close between 12:30 and 2 PM, but you can usually find an ATM outside most banks. The five major banks in France are BNP, Société Générale, Crédit Agricole, Crédit Lyonnais, and Caisse d’ Epargne. Keep an eye on bank commissions, especially when changing cash. Many banks charge for every transaction. Hint: in big cities such as Paris, you may get a better exchange rate at the bureaux de change (exchanges), especially those off the beaten tracks. Finally, it’s common for ATMs to limit the amount you can withdraw in one day. Warning: Some ATMs require that you push a release button in order to retrieve your card. The release button must be pushed quickly; if you wait too long, the machine may hold onto your card!

• National Holidays: On national holidays all shops and restaurants are closed. Public transportation offers limited schedules. The following dates are national holidays: January 1, May 1, May 8, July 14, August 15, November 1, November 11, and December 25. You should also make note of the following religious holidays, whose exact dates will vary from year to year: Easter (March or April), Ascension Day (June) and Pentecost (June).

• Mail/Stamps: Stamps can be purchased at the post office and very often at a tobacco shop. Auto-

56 • Making the Most of Your Stay mated machines at the post office allow you to make your purchase without waiting in line.

• Strikes: Relatively common in France, strikes break out unexpectedly and can last up to two months, seriously paralyzing the country. The majority of strikes, however, are simply inconvenient.

A good rule of thumb when traveling abroad: Plan for the worst, hope for the best.

• Your Safety: When walking the streets of any city it’s smart to guard your pockets, purse, and camera. The cities of France are no exception. Pay close attention in crowded places such as public transportation centers and outdoor markets... or “quiet hands” might remove the contents of your camera or purse!

Don’t wear valuables or carry items that might make you a target. If you have a rental car, never leave items visible that might identify you as a tourist, such as maps, guidebooks, cameras, suitcases, etc.

Lock personal items in the trunk; consider it cheap insurance to purchase a French newspaper and leave it visible in your car. While sightseeing, use a fanny pack or shoulder purse (worn across the body), taking only enough cash and/or a credit card for the day.

Using an under-garment passport/cash holder for the rest is always a good idea.

• Doctors: Generally, France has a good health care system. You’ll find hospitals even in small towns or rural areas. Prior to receiving care, however, check with your insurance company for an ex-

Making the Most of Your Stay • 57 En RouteFrench clinics and hosplanation of your coverage. pitals expect you to pay immediately, in cash. Credit cards are not accepted. Be sure to keep enough cash or traveler’s checks on hand for such emergencies.

Here are some emergency telephone numbers: ♦ 15 - Ambulance, Emergency services ♦ 17 - Police ♦ 18 - Fire brigade ♦ 112 - New all-European emergency number • Public bathrooms: Always keep emergency toilet paper (or a pack of tissues) on hand. Also note that in some public restrooms, you will need to pick up your TP outside the stall. In Paris you can find pod-type restrooms in parks or along the sidewalk.

Some of these are free, but for others you will need to insert exact change before the door will open to let you in. When you go inside, the door will close and you can use the toilet. When you finish, you will have to push another button to be let out again; if you stay in the bathroom for more than about 15 minutes, the door will open automatically! The nice thing about these bathrooms is that they automatically disinfect themselves after every use (almost as if the entire bathroom “flushes” itself). Other public toilets may have an attendant on hand to collect your change. You can also buy something at a café or restaurant and then use their toilets; note, however, that some fast food restaurants require a code from your receipt to enter! If you’re traveling with children

Tips

58 • Making the Most of Your Stay or are squeamish about using public toilets, carry a little packet of hand-wipes to wash up afterwards.

• Private bathrooms: A peculiarity of many French homes is that baths and toilets are often in separate rooms. A master bedroom, for instance, may have an en suite “bathroom” with a shower, tub, and sink... while the toilet is located outside in the hall! You may also find fewer toilets than you will showers or baths, which is also typical. You might be surprised to find such an arrangement at your own property, but for the French, this is quite normal.

• Beds: The French love 140 cm wide beds, known as a “standard double bed” in the U.S. For most Americans, squeezing two people into a bed this size on a regular basis is uncomfortable (we like our queens and kings), but it is quite common in France. If you end up with a double bed, think of it as an opportunity for some extra bonding with your spouse! Likewise, single (or “twin”) beds tend to be narrower than the standard U.S. size. When it comes to bed comfort, there’s really “no place like home,” so it’s a good idea to expect that your bed in France will not be as comfortable (or firm) as what you have at home. However, although it’s impossible to satisfy everyone’s preferences, we have certainly been pleasantly surprised on a number of occasions.

• Laundry/Cleaning: Washing machines in Europe are generally smaller than those in the U.S., and they are more energy efficient (translation: they take

Making the Most of Your Stay • 59 Enper Route about 1 1/2 - 2 hours load). Should you find a dryer it will also be smaller and more energy efficient. If your property doesn’t have a washing machine, there may be a public laundromat (lavanderie) in town. They are not very expensive, but you will need to bring your own detergent or purchase it from a vending machine.

• Newspapers: In most villages you will find a kiosque where you can buy French newspapers (un journal) and magazines. You may also find foreign newspapers, such as USA Today and the Herald Tribune. La Maison de la Presse is a large chain of newsstands which carry a number of daily national and international papers.

• Coffee Makers: Most French homes are equipped with a French coffee maker, called a “French press” in the U.S. This is usually a narrow cylindrical jug with a “plunger” of nylon mesh acting as the filter. Coffee is brewed by pouring the water and coffee grounds in together, leaving them to sit for a few minutes, and then slowly pressing down the plunger to eliminate the grounds. The French press can also be used with loose tea. Generally, French coffee is darker and stronger than American coffee. In cafés and bars, the French take their coffee straight or with milk. To order coffee with milk, ask for un petit crème or un grand crème.

Tips

60 • Making the Most of Your Stay NOTES:

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Making the Most of Your Stay • 61 NOTES:

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62 • Regional Highlights In the Following Pages: Paris..........................................................................59 Provence...................................................................65 Aix-en-Provence...........................................67 Avignon.........................................................72 Arles..............................................................74 The Luberon..................................................77 Marseille.......................................................79 Côte d’Azur / Var....................................................83 Languedoc-Roussillon............................................87 Aquitaine / Dordogne..............................................91 Bordeaux.......................................................98 Loire Valley............................................................101 Normandy..............................................................105 Lyon........................................................................109

Regional Highlights • 63 En Route CHAPTER FIVE:

Regional Highlights Here are some tips for exploring France’s most popular areas--perfect for day trips from your rental. If your property is in the countryside, you may need accommodations for the first night after your arrival, so we’ve included some suggestions where appropriate.

In addition to local sights, we’ve included some activities for kids. If you’re traveling with children, we have one suggestion: don’t plan too much! Parents always tell us, “I wish that we had just enjoyed the villa and not done so many day trips.” So take every other day off to enjoy the local area. Your kids will thank you!

In our experience, kids tend to enjoy the smaller towns, parks, hiking and biking, and the beaches. Let them show you how to make your vacation truly relaxing.

And while you’re at it, don’t worry too much about getting lost. Almost every town in France has a tourist information office. Typically located in the center of town, these offices are easily identifiable by a blue “i” sign. At these offices you can get information about local attractions, services, and even book tickets for various events. And yes, they will give you directions too!

Regions

64 • Regional Highlights

Paris • 65 En Paris Route

Paris

What can we say about Paris in one paragraph? Not much. We’ll leave that job to the guide books! Instead, we offer a few practical hints which you may not find in your guide.

MARKETS: One of the true delights of Paris is shopping in one of the open markets. Many Parisians shop for their weekly produce at these outdoor venues, so it is a truly authentic experience. Every arrondissement has its own produce market, so do a little exploring in your own area to see what’s available. Most markets are open on Saturday and one or two other days of the week.

There are also some specialty markets for items such as clothing, antiques, and art. Here are a few: • Clothing: Carreau du Temple, 2 rue Perrée Tues-Sun, 9:00 - 12:00 Metro: Temple, Arts et Metiers (Arr. 3) • Vintage and Second-Hand: Place d’Aligre Mon-Sat, 7:30 - 13:30 Metro: Ledru-Rollin (Arr. 12) • Flowers: Place de la Madeleine Sun-Fri, 8:00 - 19:30 Metro: Madeleine (Arr. 8) • Arts: Boulevard Edgar-Quinet Sun, 9:00 - 19:30 Metro: Edgar-Quinet (Arr. 14)

66 • Paris • Antiques: Avenue de la Porte de Vanves Fri & Sun, 7:00 - 19:30 Metro: Porte de Vanves (Arr. 14) MUSEUMS: If you plan to visit the Louvre or any other national museum in Paris, note that entrance is free on the first Sunday of each month. For further information on the Louvre, visit www.louvre.fr. For museum and monument hopping in general, we highly recommend the Carte Musées et Monuments (Paris museum pass).

There are passes for 1 day, 3 consecutive days, or 5 consecutive days. An unbeatable value, the card offers access to 70 museums and monuments and can be purchased at the Paris Tourist Office, museum ticket offices, and the major Metro stations. Cardholders need only flash their cards to gain entry rather than waiting in line! www.parismuseumpass.fr EVENTS: Three weekly magazines offer information on what’s happening in and around Paris: Pariscope, L’ Officiel des Spectacles, and Zurban. They are available at all newsstands and newsagents every Wednesday. All three include calendars of some 300 movie theatres, nightclubs, theatrical performances, outdoor festivals, lyrical events etc.

Paris • 67 En Route PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION:

Paris

If you want to discover Paris, don’t rent a car. Paris has good public transportation run by the state-owned company RATP. The city is subdivided into 20 arrondissements; you will notice that Parisian Bus and Métro Plans are structured in terms of these divisions.

For information on the Métro, RER, and bus, contact RATP at (+33) 08 3668 2020 or visit www.ratp.fr.

• Metro: The Paris Métro is easy to use; a single métro ticket will take you anywhere within the city limits. You may change lines as often as you wish; your ticket will remain valid until you leave the métro network. As you enter the métro station, validate your ticket at the entrance gate. Don’t throw it away! Controllers inspecting cars will request to see your ticket. You can also buy your tickets by the carnet, a book of 10, which is less expensive. The last métro runs until about 1 AM. The Paris subway is probably one of the safest in the world. Nevertheless, you should take precautions. Châtelet-lesHalles is reportedly sometimes unsafe at night. You should also keep an eye out at the following stops: Montmartre, Pigalle, and La Villette.

• Bus: Parisian buses are safe and offer an inexpensive and convenient way to get to know Paris.

One of the most interesting bus lines is the #72. This route follows the Seine River past the Tour Eiffel, the Dôme des Invalides and many other spectacular sights.

68 • Paris RESTAURANTS AND OTHER TREATS: • Café Marly: This very chic café has glorious views of the Louvre, the Pyramid, the Eiffel Tower, and the Tuileries. The prices are high, but the location is unbeatable. Situated beneath the colonnade of the Louvre, overlooking the main courtyard. 93 rue de Rivoli. Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre (Arr. 1).

• Lescure: A tiny country restaurant in the middle of posh Paris. Tables are shared. Regional cuisine, moderate prices. Rue de Mondovi, just off Place de la Concorde. Métro: Concorde (Arr. 8).

• Le Sérail: Superb Moroccan décor and North African cuisine. Located in a trendy, up-and-coming neighborhood favored by young people and artists.

Prices moderate to high. Don’t miss the Couscous Royal with Boulaouane Gris wine. 10 rue Sedaine.

Métro: Bastille (Arr. 11).

• Les Deux Magots & Le Flore: Located respectively at 170 and 172 Boulevard St-Germain, Les Deux Magots and Le Flore boast beautiful terraces and beautiful people. Owing their reputations to past and present philosophers, painters, and writers, the cafés offer pricey, so-so food, but an opportunity “to see and be seen” like no other. Boulevard St-Germain, by the rue de Rennes shopping area.

Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés (Arr. 6).

• Les Bains du Marais: For the ultimate hammam (communal bath) experience in the heart of the

Paris • 69

Paris

Marais, go to 31-33 En rueRoute des Blancs Manteaux. Métro: Rambuteau (Arr. 3, Tel. (+33) 01 2261 0202).

Web site: www.lesbainsdumarais.com.

• Mariage Freres Tea Rooms: Visit one of these not-to-be-missed tea houses: 30 rue du BourgTibourg (Arr. 4, Tel. (+33) 01 4272 2811); Rive Gauche, 13 rue des Grands-Augustins (Arr. 6, Tel. (+33) 01 4051 8250); Etoile, 260 Faubourg SaintHonoré (Arr. 8, Tel. (+33) 01 4622 1854).

WITH KIDS: • Find carousels in the Jardin des Tuileries and the Luxembourg Gardens.

• An aquatic park, Aquaboulevard, is located right in the middle of the city.

• Take a day trip to Versailles or Le Bourget’s Air and Space Museum.

• See the sights from one of the bateaux-mouches (literally “fly-boats”) running on the Seine.

• And remember... Euro-Disney is only an hour outside of Paris!

70 • Provence NOTES:

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Provence • 71

Provence

Provence En Route Inarguably the most popular area of France (outside of Paris), Provence is what we think of when we imagine the French countryside. This region includes a variety of natural wonders and historic towns: the mountainous Lubéron, the historic cities of Aix and Avignon, and the picturesque villages of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Gordes.

WEATHER: With 300 days of annual sunshine, Provence enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate. January, February, and March tend to be fair, but travelers should beware the mistral winds—they can be relentless! If you travel to Provence before late April, pack a sweater and jacket along with t-shirts and shorts. April is typically the rainy month, but temperatures rise rapidly thereafter and can reach 80°F by the end of May. In May and June you will frequently encounter a thick layer of fog close to the Marseille coast. June brings out the famous lavendel (lavender bushes) and noisy cicadas. It marks the beginning of the true Provençal summer: three hot, dry months interrupted only by the thunderstorms that arrive at August’s end. Summer temperatures usually last until mid-October, and the ocean waters remain above 70°F until November. It rains frequently in November and December.

72 • Provence DINING IN PROVENCE: Provençal cuisine is rich and aromatic, making generous use of garlic, olive oil, thyme, and rosemary. Traditional Provençal dishes include alouettes sans têtes, caviar d´aubergines, pieds et pacquets, ratatouille, bouillabaisse, tapenade, anchoïade, daube provençale, aïoli, brandade de morue, and pissaladière. Another traditional treat is pastis, the Provençal liquor made from anise. Without a doubt the most popular apéritif in southern France, pastis is typically imbibed in the early afternoon.

WITH KIDS: • Pay a visit to a local workshop or production house: perfume, chocolate, candy, glass, etc.

• Find more tips for activities with kids in the following sub-regions...

Aix-en-Provence - Provence • 73

Provence

Aix-en-Provence En Route Aix is one of the most popular destinations in Provence.

All over Europe, people associate romance, elegance, and “the good life”with this town of 140,000 and its surroundings. Aix is intimately linked with Marseille (15 miles away), and today Marseille-Aix is the second most important urban center in France after Paris.

Place de la Mairie, Place des Prêcheurs, Cours Mirabeau, cafés, and restaurants characterize this jewel of southern France. In July and August, many locals leave town for the cooler coast. Come fall, more than 40,000 university students return to give Aix its characteristic youthful flavor. Although many tourists come to Aix throughout the year, the town continues to preserve its unique Provençal way of life. The most popular activity among the Aixois is sitting outside at one of many fountain-side cafés, sipping coffee and glancing over a newspaper. Aix is an outdoor town: there are innumerable cafés, boutiques, and outdoor markets. During the summer months, a diverse crowd comes to enjoy the International Music and Theatre Festival, the Festival d’ Art Lyrique d’Aix-en-Provence.

MARKETS: • General Market: Place de Verdun - Tues/ Thurs/Sat 9AM-12PM. • Flowers: Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, Place des Precheurs - Daily 9AM-12PM.

74 • Provence - Aix-en-Provence • Produce: Place Richelme - Daily 9AM12PM. • Used/Antique Books: Place de l’Hôtel de Ville - First Sunday of the month 9AM-6PM. HOTELS IN AIX: • Le Cardinal and Les Quatre Dauphins: Both hotels are situated within the very quiet Mazarin quarter on the right hand side of the famous Cours Mirabeau (the Champs-Elysées of Aix). Offering quaint, private rooms, Le Cardinal and Les Quatre Dauphins are moderately priced two-star establishments. No hotel parking. Le Cardinal Tel. (+33) 04 4238 3230; Les Quatre Dauphins Tel. (+33) 04 4238 1639 • Le Manoir and Les Augustins: Both three star hotels, Le Manoir and Les Augustins are situated on the left hand side of the Cours Mirabeau in the heart of Aix. The hotels reflect the bourgeois style of ancient Aix. Les Augustins is constructed on the ruins of an ancient monastery; you can still see the remains of ancient frescos! Le Manoir Tel. (+33) 04 4226 2720; Les Augustins Tel. (+33) 04 4227 2859

Aix-en-Provence - Provence • 75 Route RESTAURANTS IN En AND NEAR AIX: Provence

Below is a list of Rentvillas.com tried-and-true favorites. Don’t forget to make a reservation if you decide to go for dinner on Friday or Saturday!

• Le Petit Verdot is a Bar à Vin, or wine bar.

In addition to an interesting menu, the main attraction is the wine list of over 300 bottles. 7 rue d´Entrecasteaux. Tel: (+33) 04 4227 3012 • Le Demode is characterzied by its retro décor.

Specialties are crèpes, gourmet salads, and other light and healthy dishes. 5 rue Campra, Tel. (+33) 04 4223 3066 • La Cour de Rohan seduces its guests with an incredible choice of delicious pastries and cakes. In the summer, you can sit next to the fountain inside the small patio. In winter, the enormous fireplace adds atmosphere to this beautifully decorated 17th century hall. Place de l´Hôtel de Ville. Tel. (+33) 04 4296 1815 • Clos de la Violette is without a doubt the most prestigious and most expensive restaurant in Aix. In summer, tables are set in its beautiful park; more affordable menus are offered at lunch time (about 50€ per person). 10 avenue Violette, Tel. (+33) 04 4223 3071 • Le Papagayo is located on the Place des Cardeurs. Enjoy great salads for lunch or dinner on one of the most popular places in Aix. 22 Forum des Cardeurs. Tel. (+33) 04 4223 9835

76 • Provence - Aix-en-Provence AROUND AIX: Whether you’re staying in or around Aix, there are attractions on the outskirts of town that are not to be missed. All destinations are within a short drive through the legendary countryside, a source of inspiration for such artists as Cézanne, Pagnol, and Van Gogh.

• Sainte Victoire: Only 10 km east of Aix, this mountain range is the favorite weekend destination for the Aixois. Every year, thousands of foreign tourists climb to its mystic peak, which also happens to have been Cézanne’s favorite spot.

• Bibemus: Just outside Aix (off the road to Vauvenargues on the road D10) is this fabulous hiking area with a brilliant view of Sainte Victoire.

• Aquaeduc de Roquefavour: 10 km west of Aix, near Ventabren and Roquefavour, is this impressive replica of ancient Roman aqueducts built to supply water to Aix and Marseilles.

• Ventabren: Perched on a rock several hundred feet high, overlooking the Étang de Berre and surrounding plains, this tiny Provençal village boasts beautifully preserved architecture. It’s also a nice place to stop for lunch or dinner. La Table de Ventabren offers a reasonably priced prix fixe menu.

In summer, you can dine on the terrace and enjoy breathtaking views. Tel. (+33) 04 4228 7933 • La Sainte-Baume: Between Aix and Marseille lies the Massif de la Sainte-Baume, the setting for the

Aix-en-Provence - Provence • 77 Route popular French filmsEn Jean de Florette and Manon of the Spring. We suggest a drive on the N8 from Aix to Toulon or a trip to the villages around Aubagne.

• Gorges du Verdon: This spectacular site is located about 1.5 hours northeast of Aix. Nearby Castellane is the starting point for white-water rafting or kayaking adventures. If you venture to these parts, don’t forget to stop at Sillans la Cascade, a 150-foot waterfall that rushes down into a turquoise lake.

Provence

WITH KIDS: • Aqua City: On the southern side of Aix, find this water park with pools, toboggans, and tunnels to keep the kids (and you) cool all day. Route Nationale 543 Les Pennes Mirabeau 13170. Tel. (+33) 4 9151 5408. Open June - Sept, 10AM - 7PM. • Ecomusée de la Forêt is a free museum devoted to educating children and adults about the Mediterranean forest. In addition to the museum, there’s a 13-hectare botanical park with play areas.

• OK Corral: Take a trip back in time to the...

American West? That’s right, 50 km from Aix (on the A47 towards Toulon) you’ll run into this theme park, a full 15 hectares of living American history, rides, and even teepee camping! Route Nationale 8, Cuges les Pins, 13780. Tel. (+33) 04 4273 8005.

Website www.okcorral.fr.

78 • Provence - Avignon Avignon This UNESCO World Heritage city first gained fame when the Pope took up residence here in the 15th century, leaving behind a Palace of the Popes. Today the city is still ringed by a medieval wall, inside of which you will find narrow, winding streets and ancient buildings filled with shops and restaurants. Avignon is both easy to reach by train and an excellent base for exploring the area: fifteen minutes in any direction takes you into protected countryside, covered in lavender and dotted with small towns rich in local culture. Try Gordes, on a hill overlooking a gorgeous valley; Cabrières d’Avignon, featured in Peter Mayle’s “A Year in Provence;” Côtes d’Rhône with its amazing wine; and Fontaine de Vaucluse, where you can see cold springs bubbling up out of the ground. Try the olives, truffles, lamb, and crème brûlée, all specialties of the area. This is the true “Provence experience,” one of the most authentic areas in France MARKETS: Daily: Covered market at Les Halles, mornings Tuesday: Marche, La Trillade, Monclar, Montfavet Wednesday: Marche, St Jean-Monclar Friday: Marche, Pont des 2 Eaux Saturday: Place Crillo, Marche, Remparts St Michel Sunday: Parc Expos, Marche, Remparts St Michel

Avignon - Provence • 79 En Route Provence

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Notre Dame des Doms is a 12th century cathedral housing many beautiful works of art.

• The Palais des Papes is a gothic-style monument open for visitation, also great for kids.

• The Musée Carnavalet (located opposite the Palais des Papes) has a collection of Renaissance paintings from Avignon and Italy. There are also a number of other museums in town: Musée Calvet, Musée Angladon, Musée Lapidair, Musée LouisVouland, and Musée Requien.

• Minor churches include St Pierre, St Didier, St Agricol.

WITH KIDS:

• Made famous by the children’s song “Sur Le Pont d’Avignon,” this 12th century bridge of the same name once linked Avignon to Villeneuve-lezAvignon. Originally it was 900 meters long with 22 arches, but the turbulent waters of the river washed away all but four arches--today it is a fun place to get a great view of the river.

• In the Place de l’Horloge, you’ll find a carousel along with a number of beautiful buildings lining the square, including the opera house and the Hôtel de Ville.

80 • Provence - Arles Arles With a history stretching back to Roman times, Arles has the distinction of being a true turning point in western culture. Originally established in the 6th century BC by the Greeks, it often served as headquarters for Roman Emperors during their military campaigns in the 3rd and 4th centuries AD. Later, Arles would become a center of tension between the Visigoths and orthodox Catholicism. In the middle ages, Arles was invaded by the Franks and suffered a number of other setbacks which left most of the city in ruins. Nevertheless, it remained an important port on the Rhône; largely disregarded culturally, however, until the arrival of Vincent van Gogh. He produced over 300 paintings of the area before his mental health began to deteriorate. After cutting off his own ear, the citizens of Arles petitioned that he be confined. Soon after, van Gogh retired to an asylum in nearby Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Since that time, Arles has experienced a revival. Today common activities include bullfights in the Roman arenas, festivals where the locals dress in traditional costumes, and touring Roman remains.

MARKETS: • Wednesday and Saturday: Boulevard des Lices

Arles - Provence • 81 En Route Provence

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Remains of Roman life abound in Arles--you can visit a Roman theatre, an amphitheatre, a necropolis (Alyscamps), and the thermal baths of Constantine.

• The Romanesque church of St. Trophime has a depiction of the Last Judgment on its entrance.

• The Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques has one of the most significant collections of Roman sarcophagi outside of Rome.

• The Museon Arlaten, open since 1904, chronicles the social and cultural progress of the region at the end of the 19th century.

• The Ferias and Corridas: Since the 15th century, bullfights (corridas) have taken place in Arles and Nîmes, and are frequently held in summertime.

Tickets are available in local tourist offices or at the arena itself. The corridas traditionally begin at Easter with the Feria de Pâques in Arles. The second bullfighting event is the Feria de Pentecôte, held in Nîmes, which usually takes place the first or second weekend in June. Finally there is the Feria des Vendanges in mid-September; locations vary.

82 • Provence - Arles WITH KIDS: • Wander around the beautiful city of Arles and count how many Vincent Van Gogh paintings you can “see!” Spots where the artist actually set up his easel to paint a famous scene are marked with laminated panels. If you don’t want to hunt, stop by the tourist office to pick up a brochure.

• Find the boulevard des Lices, the location of both a nice park and a children’s playground with rides.

The Luberon - Provence • 83 En Route Provence

The Luberon

The Luberon was once one of the poorest regions in France, and in fairly recent history, famines menaced its population. Today, thanks to tourism and the many foreigners who have bought and restored old farmhouses and villages, the region’s small towns prosper.

HIGHLIGHTS: • Eastern Luberon: The eastern Luberon is characterized by gorgeous landscapes. Visit the village of Cucuron and have coffee near the Place de la Poste at Bassin des Pompiers, where you can sit beneath 120-foot-high platanes trees. Grambois is another nearby medieval town with great views.

• Western Luberon: Consider a stopover at the Abbaye de Silvacance, an ancient monastery just outside La Roque d’Anthéron. A brilliant masterpiece of gothic architecture, it represents a unique part of Provençal religious history.

• Hiking: Northeast of Apt on the D22 just outside Rustrel is a unique hiking area called the Grand Canyon de Provence. Most of the trails can be covered in about 2 hours.

• Gastronomic Treats: For a special meal, stop at La Feniére, 3 miles south of Lourmarin. Awarded an 18 (on a scale of 20) by Gault Millau, the French restaurant guide, La Feniére is superbly decorated and surrounded by a garden with olive trees. The in-

84 • Provence - The Luberon novative menu is an example of French haute-cuisine at its finest. The service is excellent (there seem to be more waiters than guests) and although the prices are high, La Feniére is well-worth the expense when you consider the extraordinary quality. Route de Cadenet, Lourmarin. Tel. (+33) 04 9068 1179 WITH KIDS: • Fort de Buoux, located about five kilometers from Bonnieux, is an excellent outdoor hiking area that includes the largest cave in the Lubéron and an ancient burial ground. You can climb through the remains of an old village, a church, and the fort. The trails are steep and sometimes dangerous, so this activity is only for older kids. Location is “off the beaten track:” take the D943 to D113. Small entrance fee.

Marseille - Provence • 85 En Route Provence

Marseille

The second-largest city in France, Marseille is currently experiencing a dramatic resurgence in popularity. As a port city, industry is dominated by fishing (you can visit the fish market to sample the day’s catch in the Old Port) and freight (handled in the New Port). The city has an extensive bus-and-metro system that makes it easy to get around without a car. In town you will find a variety of entertainment venues, from museums and art galleries to theatres, cinemas, and fashion stores. In addition to playing a large part in the history of the nation (even contributing the national anthem), Marseille has also been the birthplace and home to many writers and artists: Edmond Rostand, André Roussin, and Cézanne to name a few. Historically, its main cultural attraction was the Opéra. After a 1920’s fire, the opera house was rebuilt in Art Deco style, but the original 18th century colonnade can still be enjoyed.

MARKETS: • Cours Julien: Weds/Sat 8PM-1PM. Produce, flowers, used/antique books every other Saturday.

• Marché de la Plaine: Thurs-Sat 8AM-1PM. Produce, flowers on Friday.

86 • Provence - Marseille LODGING: • Mercure Marseille Beauvau Vieux Port: In the center of Marseille, this elegant old hotel is across from the Old Port. Be sure to get a room with a view of the water so you can watch the fishing boats drifting by. 4 rue Beauvau 13001, Tel. (+33) 04 9154 9100. Website: www.mercure.com (“Find and book a hotel” by destination; choose Marseille.)

• Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port: This hotel, in the heart of the city, offers wonderful views over the water and the old city. 36 boulevard Charles Livon 13007, Tel. (+33) 04 9115 5900. Website: www.sofitel.com (Enter “Marseille” under “Quick Search & Reservation.”)

DINING: • César Place: 21 place aux Huiles 13001, Tel. (+33) 04 9133 2522. www.cesar-place.com • L’Epuisette: Vallon des Auffes 13007, Tel. (+33) 04 9152 1782. www.l-epuisette.com • Chez Fonfon: 140 Vallon des Auffes 13007, Tel. (+33) 04 9152 1438. www.chez-fonfon.com HIGHLIGHTS: • The Old Port (or Vieux-Port) and Phare de Sainte Marie (lighthouse).

• Museum of History, the Maritime Museum, the Musée de la Mode (fashion museum), and the

Marseille - Provence • 87 En Route Musée Cantini (including art by Picasso) • Cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde: An enormous basilica about 1 km south of the Old Port.

Up on a hill, it offers views all around the area.

• Palais du Pharo: A magnificent palace bequeathed to the city by the wife of Napoleon III, Empress Eugénie, in 1883.

• Place de la Major: A Roman-Byzantine cathedral • Cours Julien: With a funky, international flavor, this area feels like San Francisco’s Haight Street.

• “Little Casablanca:” The first arrondissement, located behind the port, is a neighborhood of primarily Moroccan immigrants. Here you can dine on traditional couscous for for excellent prices.

• Bouillabaisse is a traditional stew made with seven kinds of fish; you can sample it in the restaurants around the Old Port.

• The Côte Bleue, stretching from Marseille to Saint Tropez, offers a collection of pretty, relatively unpopulated beaches and a network of coastal trails.

In the high season, it’s a great area to get away from tourists and rub elbows with the Marseillais.

• Les Calanques: A shoreline nature preserve that stretches from Marseille to Bandol, Les Calanques ranks among the Mediterranean coast’s most spectacular sights. There are countless little coves, hidden sand beaches, towering cliffs, and tiny is-

Provence

88 • Provence - Marseille lands just yards off shore. Visitors to Les Calanques should be prepared to walk: most beaches can be reached within 40 minutes. En Vau, Port-Pin, and Port Miou boast some of the most spectacular coastlines.

WITH KIDS: • Visit the infamous “Château d’If,” the island prison featured in Alexandre Dumas’ Count of Monte Cristo.

• Explore the Jardin des Vestiges (the Archeological Garden) in the Old Port, dating back to Roman times.

Côte d'Azur / Var • 89 Côte En d’Azur Route / Var

Cote d’Azur

The Côte d’Azur stretches from St. Tropez to the Italian border. Its beaches and ritzy port towns rank among the top vacation spots in Europe. Unfortunately some of the coastline’s most beautiful beaches are over-crowded, especially in July and August when tout le monde goes to the seaside. In high season, traffic jams that stretch for 40 miles are not unheard of, and hour-long stops are common. The good news? The Côte d’Azur still offers many hidden (and therefore less crowded!) gems to the savvy traveler. Although many of our suggestions will take you off the tourist trail, we also encourage quick stops at some of the Côte d’Azur’s more famous destinations, especially in the off-season.

MARKETS:

• Menton: Daily market at the harbour. Fri flea market in the town center.

• Nice: General markets: Sat/Sun at boulevard Montel; Wed/Fri at Place Fontaine, Place du Temple, Stade du Ray; Tues at Place de l’Arian.

• Antibes: General market Tues-Sun at Cours Massena.

• Cannes: Tues-Sun at Place du Commandant Maria • Saint Tropez: Tues/Sat at Place des Lices • Toulon: Tues-Sun at Cours Lafayette (flea market Sun)

90 • Côte d'Azur / Var •

Grasse: Tues-Sun at Place aux Aires.

HIGHLIGHTS: • La Côte Varoise: Between Hyères and St. Tropez, the Route des Vins is a beautiful coastal road. Starting at La Londe, the road winds through wooded hills, palm forests, châteaux, and vineyards.

Just before the road joins the Route Nationale (RN 98), a smaller road leads to Cap/Château Bregançon, a magnificent castle built into the cliffs overlooking the ocean. The beach is beautiful; the water is shallow and therefore heats up very quickly. There is a supervised parking lot nearby.

• Porquerolles and Port Cros: The islands off the Côte Varoise are a very popular weekend destination. Situated roughly ten miles off the coast, Porquerolles and Port Cros can be reached by ferry. Ferries depart from Toulon, Hyères, and Le Lavandou. These exotic islands offer fantastic hiking trails (you’ll spot tropical flora such as orchids and palm trees) and superb sandy beaches. Port Cros and Bagaud are part of a nature preserve and offer unique diving spots. You can rent boats in Toulon and Hyères, and anchor at Porquerolles or Port Cros.

There are no cars allowed on the islands. Hint: Rent a bike at Porquerolles. Pedal around the island and then grab a bite to eat at Le Mas du Langoustier.

• Grasse: Famous for its perfumes and exclusive boutiques, this beautiful village is located near

Côte d'Azur / Var • 91 Cannes (beware ofEn theRoute international film festival crowds in May). Perched on a hill overlooking the sea, Grasse offers views of Corsica on clear days. Its prime location also makes it vulnerable to the mistral, so bring a windbreaker! An interesting alternative to Grasse is nearby Valbonne, a picturesque village where several contemporary painters have dropped their anchors.

• Bormes les Mimosas: Bormes is a romantic little village situated on a hilltop overlooking the sea in the distance. Its narrow, quiet streets are well known for their extraordinary selection of spring flowers. The nearby villages of Cavalière, Le Lavandou, and Pramousquier offer pleasant sandy beaches.

There is a well-equipped sailing school in Cavalière (open from April to October).

• Forêt des Maures: Tired of the beach? The inland areas offer many hiking trails and country roads. The road that leads into the Forêt des Maures (called the Route des Crêtes) is particularly breathtaking; it climbs into the mountains right outside Canadel.

• Saint Tropez: Once a small village of fishermen and farmers, with the arrival of Brigitte Bardot and other film stars, this little town became popular overnight. Saint Tropez is the ultimate paradise for the rich and beautiful—and, of course, les poseurs.

It can be overwhelming during the summer: traffic jams, astronomical prices, and noise! Still, St. Trop’

Cote d’Azur

92 • Côte d'Azur / Var (as it’s called by aficionados) is undeniably beautiful. Please, do yourself a favor and visit before June or after September!

• Nice: If you’ll be traveling at the end of February or early March, check out the Nice Carnaval!

Website: www.nicecarnaval.com WITH KIDS: • In Nice, stroll the Promenade des Anglais, a long, wide walk along the beach. Kids can run around or fly kites while adults enjoy the cafés and restaurants.

• Take a trip out of Cannes to the Island of Sainte Marguerite, where you can go swimming or visit the Fort de l’Ile, made famous as the prison for Alexandre Dumas’ Man in the Iron Mask.

• Visit the perfume museum and/or a perfume factory in Grasse.

• Pack a picnic lunch and spend the day climbing the rocks above St. Jennet, taking in spectacular sea views.

Languedoc-Roussillon • 93 Languedoc-Roussillon En Route

Languedoc

A land of vineyards, fishing towns, and beach resorts, Languedoc-Roussillon is the single largest producer of wine in France. While its main cities are modern and cosmopolitan, its rural villages remain steeped in Old World tradition. This is the area which produced magnificent troubadour poetry from the tenth through twelfth centuries, in the language of “d’Oc,” the regional tongue. To preserve their cultural heritage, Languedoc’s Occitan and Roussillan’s Catalan languages are still taught in schools today. Visitors to this area can ramble through Roman ruins or take advantage of the hiking and skiing opportunities in the Haut Languedoc or Cerdagne.

MARKETS:

• Monday: Montpellier, Nîmes, Elne, Narbonne, Castelnaudary • Tuesday: Bassan, Castelnau-le-Nez, Creissan, Montpellier, Saint Jean du Gard, Nîmes, Perpignan, Prades, Carcassonne, Narbonne • Wednesday: Beaulieu, Castelnau-le-Nez, Montpellier, Uzès, Nîmes, Perpignan, Elne, Arles sur Tech, Ille sur Tet, Quillan, Narbonne • Thursday: Castelnau-le-Nez, Montpeyroux, Montpellier, Saint Gilles, Beaucaire, Anduze, Nîmes, Perpignan, Esparaza, Carcassonne, Narbonne • Friday: Bassan, Castelnau-le-Nez, Saint

94 • Languedoc-Roussillon Christol, Montagnac, Montpellier, Ganges, Nîmes, Perpignan, Elne, Ille sur Tet • Saturday: Beaulieu, Castelnau-le-Nez, Palavas les Flots, Montpellier, Le Vigan, Uzès, Pont Saint Esprit, Nîmes, Perpignan, Ceret, Prades, Quillan, Carcassonne, Narbonne • Sunday: Montpellier, Saint Gilles, Beaucaire, Anduze, Nîmes, Perpignan, Esparaza, Narbonne HIGHLIGHTS: • Roquefort-sur-Soulzon is a village almost entirely devoted to the production of the cheese bearing its name. You can (of course) sample the cheese and also pay a visit to the caves where the cheese is aged.

• Vernet-les-Bains is a mountain village known for its hot springs. You can visit a geological museum or enjoy over 200 species of trees populating the village. You can also do a number of hikes around the area.

• Cathar fortresses dot the hills near Perpignan.

Wiped out by the crusaders, these impressive structures are all that remain of this “heretical” belief system.

• The Sainte Cécile cathedral in Albi is strikingly beautiful, purported to be the largest brick building in the world. Constructed in the 14th century, the interior features an 18th century organ.

• The Camargue (between Arles, Nîmes, and

Languedoc-Roussillon • 95 Route the Rhône River) is En an expansive delta (home to the Gypsy Kings!) mostly known for unique fauna such as white bulls, wild horses, and flamingos, not to mention the endless beaches. Keep in mind that the Camargue is extremely exposed to the mistral, and it can be very cold and blustery in spring, late fall, and winter.

• Saintes Maries de la Mer is a town sacred to gypsies. Each May, a procession in honor of Saint Sarah (the black virgin) attracts thousands of gypsies from all over Europe. If you’re in the area, don’t miss this traditional and very emotional event. You certainly won’t be the only non-gypsy!

• Aigues-Mortes is a medieval town entirely surrounded by its original fortifications. Aigues-Mortes means “dead water” and refers to the surrounding swamps which have encroached significantly on the land over the centuries (during the Middle Ages, Arles bordered the Mediterranean!) General market on Wednesday and Sunday.

• Nîmes is an ancient Roman city built around an amphitheater. The historic center offers a variety of shops and cafés. Even in high season, Nîmes remains relatively calm and pleasant.

Languedoc

96 • Languedoc-Roussillon WITH KIDS: • Take a horseback ride on the famous white horses through the beautiful, marshy nature reserve.

• Near Nîmes, visit the famous aqueduct at Pont du Gard or the Roman Amphitheatre.

• Whatever you do, don’t miss the walled city of Carcassonne--a vision right out of a fairy tale. The city is filled with various sights, activities, and museums. Check out www.carcassonne.org to get any information you need.

Dordogne • 97 Aquitaine En Route / Dordogne

Rentvillas:

Friends: Rentvillas: Friends: Rentvillas:

Friends:

Tell us what you know about the Dordogne!

The Bourgogne?

No, the Dordogne.

Hmmm… Remind us where that is.

About a hundred kilometers east of Bordeaux. You know, the area around the Dordogne River.

Oh, of course, of course. Well, can’t say much about it, but how about Provence?

Dordogne

Before our first trip to the region, we did a bit of informal research amongst well-traveled friends. We quickly learned that we were heading someplace largely unknown to the American traveler. Conversations all went something like this:

We thought surely there must be a reason no one had traveled in the Dordogne. On arrival, however, we experienced the exhilaration of discovering a hidden treasure. As one of our colleagues says, “From sun up until sundown, the Dordogne is eat-your-heart-out beautiful.”

Heading east from Bordeaux, Dordogne proper starts roughly at Bergerac. It becomes relentlessly breathtaking after Lalinde where the road, D703, more or less

98 • Dordogne follows the bends of the river along the valley floor.

On either side of the well-maintained, well-marked road are hills, which occasionally give way to dramatic golden limestone cliffs. Several of these precipices house châteaux or fortresses (Beynac, Castelnaud, Domme, La Roque Gageac).

If you stay in one of the many towns along the river, you are in what is considered the lower Dordogne, or Périgord Pourpre/Noir. The rolling terrain, lush vegetation, and the majestic river make this the best area to visit in the large Périgord region. In general, towns and sights in this area of the valley are relatively compact, cutting down on driving time and making it easier to make a few stops in one day.

DRIVING: Roads are in great shape and the indications are both copious and well placed. There is no reason why you should ever get lost. Some roads may get icy in the dead of winter, but barring rain you’ll have no problem with conditions in late autumn/early winter. It’s essential to have both a car and a map that shows even the small towns, as this will facilitate navigation. All sights are well marked.

WEATHER CONSIDERATIONS: The weather throughout late spring, summer, and early fall is usually beautiful. November, though less popu-

Dordogne • 99

EXCURSIONS AND ACTIVITIES:

Dordogne

lar, is nice if you can En takeRoute the chill and your property has heating. Though the sun is warm during the day, it often gets down to freezing at night, and you’ll find it pretty chilly in the shade at any time of the day. The many caves (wineries) and châteaux are obviously also very cold, so bring warm clothes when you go sightseeing. Winter has not yet arrived in early November, and you’ll find that the leaves are still changing. The color of the trees is made all the more striking by the golden autumn light; and the fact that most tourists stay away in the colder months makes everything even more beautiful. You’ll still see the odd tourist, but there are few Americans and no real crowds to speak of. In fact, in November you’re much more likely to see the sights with native French tourists than with other foreigners.

The Dordogne is the place to visit if you have an interest in any of the following: châteaux, bold red wines, foie gras, truffles, outdoor markets, river sports, prehistory, or geology. As tourist season is no longer in full swing come November, most towns will “shut down” around this time; some restaurants and all canoe/boat rental outfits close permanently after September. Also, many of the museums, caves, and châteaux change their hours during the off-season; in most cases, they close an hour earlier. In terms of cost, there is no reduction for entry into any of the sights.

100 • Dordogne CHÂTEAUX: The many châteaux in the area are indicated on most good maps—though you can easily spot them by taking a drive on the lush, curving roads. Most can be visited, though some are simply historic family homes and you have to admire them from the road. Chateaux also make for great picnic spots and offer tidbits of regional history. Driving through the countryside will afford you the opportunity to see most of them, but stop at only those which strike your fancy! Note that all three destinations mentioned below are within a seven-kilometer radius--a good example of the compactness of the region.

• Château des Milandes is located just down the road from Castelnaud. The property features a falcon show (appealing to all ages) and an informative tour of the château that focuses on the life of Josephine Baker, its final owner. Baker was an African-American singer/dancer who moved to France to escape prejudice and bigotry in America. There she became not only a star, but also a national treasure, serving her adopted country in World War II. Particularly amazing are the perfectly restored bathrooms, which Baker designed in the likeness of her two favorite kinds of perfume. It’s 1920’s decadence at its best.

• Beynac is a stunning cliff-side château situated across the river from Château des Milandes. Atop its parapets one can see a good portion of the valley.

Dordogne • 101 Routeto Beynac has several The medieval town En adjacent places to eat and a view of the river.

• Castelnaud houses a museum of medieval arms and armor. Kids love the catapult demonstrations.

OUTDOOR MARKETS:

Dordogne

It’s impossible to ignore the importance of agriculture in the Dordogne Valley. Corn, berries, walnuts and plums are just a few items grown locally and sold in the open-air markets that occur practically every day of the week. You can find almost all the fresh produce, foie gras (pens full of fat gray geese are a very common sight), meat, and cheese you’ll need and also savor the local “flavor.” Here is a list of towns holding markets by day of the week: • Monday: Les Eyzies (Apr-Oct), Ste Alvere, Tocane St Apre • Tuesday: Beaumont, Bergerac, Brantome (JulAug), Cenac et St Julien, Le Bugue, Lisle, Mareuilsur-Belle, Riberac, Thiviers (Jul-Aug), Tremolat • Wednesday: Bergerac, Cadouin, Hautefort, Jumilhac le Grand, la Tour Blanche, Montignac, Montpon Menesterol, Piegut Pluviers, Sarlat, Soirac en Périgord • Thursday: Domme, Excideuil, La Coquille, Lalinde, Monpazier, St Astier, St Julien de Lampon, St Pardoux la Riviere, Terrasson • Friday: Bergerac, Brantome, Le Buisson, Le

102 • Dordogne Lardin, Riberac, Sarlat • Saturday: Beaumont, Belves, Bergerac, Le Bugue, Lalinde, Lanouaille, Montignac, Montpon Menesterol, Nontron, Saint Aulaye, Sarlat, Thiviers, Villefranche du Perigord • Sunday: Angoisse, Bergerac, Calviac, CouzeSt-Front, Issigeac, Jumilhac le Grand, Limeuil, Pontours, Pressignac Vicq (July-Aug), St Cyprien, St Front de Pardoux, St Genies, St Leon sur Vezere, St Pardoux la Riviere, Sarlat, Sorges (Jul-Aug) LOCAL WINE: The Dordogne region stretches east from Bordeaux.

Driving east towards St. Emilion, you’re in the heart of serious wine country, and there are opportunities to stop for tasting almost every other kilometer. You’ll find the greatest concentration of wineries east of Bergerac.

THE VEZERE: The region of the Vezere river has an incredible wealth of prehistoric cave dwellings and cave paintings. An absolute must-see is La Roque St. Christophe, the largest cave dwelling in all of Europe. Although the Grotte de Lascaux is globally famous for its prehistoric art, it’s important to note that you can’t actually view the original paintings. Instead, you can visit the replicas at a site called “Lascaux II.” Equally as interesting (and

Dordogne • 103 EnGrotte Routedu Grand Roc, another much less hyped) is the prehistoric cave with paintings and incredible stalactites and stalagmites.

WITH KIDS:

Dordogne

• Bergerac Aquapark is located on the outskirts of Bergerac, on the road to Bordeaux.

• Let your little cave-men and -women run wild at the Prehisto Parc, 6 km north of Les Eyzies. Cavemen, mammoths, and other prehistoric icons are recreated here.

• At the Park Archéologique de Beynac, kids can discover how the first farmers and metalworkers lived in a reconstructed Neolithic village.

• Another more “modern” recreation is Le Village du Bournat at Le Bugue, showing life in the year 1900--complete with animals, crafts, an organic farm, and a working windmill.

• Go canoeing along the river.

• A must for adventurous older kids: the Airparc Perigord (www.airparc-perigord.com) at St-Vincent-de-Cosse lets you swing and climb through the treetops in a variety of creative ways.

104 • Dordogne - Bordeaux Bordeaux Famed for its wine of the same name, Bordeaux is known as the wine capital of the world. With an 18th century flavor, this historic city has a mild climate, some great museums, and many ancient buildings.

Sights include the Saint-Andre Cathedral, consecrated in 1096; the 15th century gothic basilica of Saint-Michel; the Grand Theatre; and the Musee d’Aquitaine.

MARKETS: • Saint-Michel morning market at Place Meynard and Canteloup - General produce on Monday and Saturday, antiques on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday.

• Victor Hugo morning market at Place de la Ferme de Richemont - General produce, daily.

LODGING: • Hotel de la Presse: Located near the Grand Opéra on a pedestrian street, this charming hotel has 27 rooms on 4 floors. Excellent location and reasonable rates; rooms are simple but well equipped. Three stars. 6 & 8 rue Porte Dijeaux 33000. Tel. (+33) 05 5648 5388. Website: www.hoteldelapresse.com.

• Hotel des Quatre Soeurs: This 3-star hotel is located in the cultural and historical area of Bordeaux. Reasonably priced. 6 Cours du XXX Juillet

Bordeaux - Dordogne • 105 En5781 Route 33000. Tel. (+33) 05 1920 or (+33) 05 5648 1600; Email: 4Soeurs@mailcity.com.

• Hotel Continental: Another centrallylocated hotel with nice, if simply furnished, rooms. Reasonably priced. 10 rue Montesquieu 33000. Tel. (+33) 05 5652 6600. Website: www.hotel-le-continental.com DINING:

Dordogne

Bordeaux is famed for its fine dining establishments, so there’s no way we could even begin to cover the range of options you have at your disposal. However, here are websites of a few of the finer restaurants in the city.

• Chez Dubern: 44 allée de Tourny 33000. Tel. (+33) 05 5679 0770.

Website: www.philippe-chez-dubern.com • La Chamade: 39 rue des Maréchaux 54000. Tel. (+33) 03 8335 0797. Website: http://la-chamade.com • Lou Pignada: 34 rue Marsan 33000. Tel. (+33) 05 5787 0372. Note: This website (in French) is less than “professional.” That’s because Lou Pignada is a bit eccentric: in addition to dinner, you can hang around and enjoy a stage show! Website: http://loupignada.ifrance.com

106 • Dordogne - Bordeaux WITH KIDS: • Pay a visit to the ice skating rink in the center of town.

• Go to the Water Museum (Maison de l’Eau), where kids of all ages can conduct experiments in the laboratory and taste different kinds of water. The ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions of art on the theme of water. This museum is special to Bordeaux since the city owes so much to its location on the river Garonne and its status as a port city.

Loire Valley • 107 Loire En Route Valley In the region just below Paris, the Loire valley has long been considered one of the most beautiful areas in the country. It’s not surprising, then, to learn that the entire area is scattered with the grandiose châteaux of French kings and nobility. It is also noted for its incredibly diverse selection of wines, from fruity whites to fullbodied reds and everything in between. Most of the sights to be seen are located along one of the two main rivers, the Loire and the Cher. Because of the special characteristics of this area, one of the best things to do in the Loire Valley is simply hop in your car and wander until you encounter a stunning château or a winery open for tasting.

MARKETS:

Loire

• Monday: Baugé, Beaupréau, Candé, Dové-laFontaine, Blois, Montrichard • Tuesday: Angers, Chalonnes-sur-Loire, Cholet, Gennes, Montreuil-Bellay, St Mathurin-surLoire, Thouacré, Cour-Cheverny, Bléré, Bourgueil, Montbazon, Tours • Wednesday: Angers, Beaufort-en-Vallée, Cholet, Fonteuraud l’Abbaye, St-Lambert-du-Lattay, Saumur, Segré, Vihiers, Blois, Romorantin-Lanthenay, Loches, Tours • Thursday: Angers, Brissac-Quincé, Chemillé, Cholet, Montjean-sur-Loire, Pouancé, Saumur, Le

108 • Loire Valley Vieil-Baugé, Blois, Bracieux, Mennetou-sur-Cher, Selles-sur-Cher, Chinon, Cormery, Descartes, Le Grand-Pressigny, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Tours • Friday: Angers, St Florent-le-Vieil, Saumur,Montrichard, Amboise, Bléré, Montbazon, Ste-Maure-de-Touraine, Tours, Vouvray • Saturday: Chalonnes-sur-Loire, Cholet, La Ménitré, Martigné-Briand, Saumur, Blois, Bourgueil, Chinon, Loches, Luynes, Montréser, Tours • Sunday: Allones, Angers, Montsoreau, Saumur, Blois, Amboise, Chinon, Descartes, Langeais, Tours HIGHLIGHTS: • Go hiking on one of the many walking trails; pay a visit to a Tourist Information Office first to pick up a route map.

• Rent a bicycle and go for a ride.

• Join one of the many guided boat trips available along the river.

• Take a tour or enjoy a summer concert at the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud, founded in 1101.

Throughout history it has served as an abbey and a prison; today it is a cultural center that frequently hosts music programs. Website (in French): www.abbaye-fontevraud.com

Loire Valley • 109 WITH KIDS:

En Route

Loire

• Buy a combination ticket for both Le Parc des Mini-Chateaux (La Menaudière, 37400 Amboise) and the Aquarium du Val de Loire (37400 Lussaultsur-Loire). At the miniatures park you and the kids can browse the 40 miniature models of Loire Valley chateaux to pinpoint which you’d like to visit. The aquarium features primarily freshwater fish from the rivers, as well as a few tropical tanks. Some tanks are open for touching.

• For older children (over 7, 1.2 meters tall), pay a visit to the Tepacap “vertical adventure” park just south of Le Mans. With 65 ways to “discover nature from another angle,” this forest activity center allows you to live like Tarzan for a day, traversing courses through the treetops. Website (in French): www.tepacap.fr/lemans

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Normandy • 111 Normandy En Route Forever remembered for the landing beaches where so many of our heroes fell, Normandy holds a special place in the American heart. Many still return to remember these events, while others come for Normandy’s other attractions. A region rich in history, Normandy has often played a pivotal part in France’s territorial struggles with England. In fact, the Norman conquest of England in 1066, often referred to as the “most pivotal event in English history,” was led by William the Conqueror--otherwise known as the Duke of Normandy. Today, Normandy is also renowned for its cheeses, which include Camembert, Livarot, Pont l’Eveque, Brillat-Savarin, Neufschatel, and Boursin.

Expect meals in this region to be characterized by rich cheeses and creams, balanced with some amazing seafood and topped off with cider rather than wine. Don’t miss the pastries, either!

MARKETS: Normandy

• Monday: Bricquebec, Carentan, Saint-James, Torigni-sur-Vire • Tuesday: Barfleur, Bréhal, Cherbourg, Coutances, Ducey, Hambye, Jullouville, Octeville, Portbail, Villedieu, Saint-Lô, Sourdeval, Villedieu-lesPoêles • Wednesday: La Haye-du-Puits, La Haye-Pesnel, Granville, Gavray, Giverny, Pontorson, St Hi-

112 • Normandy laire-du-Harcouet, Saint-Lô, Saint-Pierre-Eglise • Thursday: Carolles, Cérences, Cherbourg, Coutances, Octeville, Saint-Lô, Sainte-Mère-Eglise, Saint Pair-sur-Mer • Friday: Carentan, Hambye, Jullouville, Les Pieux, Picauville, Sartilly, Saint-Lô, Valognes • Saturday: Avranches, Barneville-Carteret, Gavray, Granville, Honfleur, Montebourg, Mortain, Octeville, Percy, Saint-Lô, St Sauveur-le-Vicomte, Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue • Sunday: Barfleur, Marigny, Octeville, SaintLô, St-Martin-de-Bréhal HIGHLIGHTS: • The Bayeux Tapestry: An absolute must for any history buff. 230 feet long, this embroidered cloth depicts scenes from the Battle of Hastings.

It is also famous for a panel with the first recorded sighting of Halley’s Comet. Allow two hours to visit. Bayeux, Centre Guillaume le Conquérant Rue de Nesmond. Tel. (+33) 02 3151 2550.

• Le Mont Saint-Michel: Historically a “tidal island” (approachable by land only at low-tide), this little island sits at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avranches. The ancient island village is dominated by a Benedictine Abbey and has the distinction of being the third most-visited site in France (after the Eiffel Tower and Versailles). Warning: Do not try to cross the sand flats to the island while the tide

Normandy • 113 En Route is out. Swift tides and quicksand claim lives every year.

• Visit Omaha beach and the cemetery.

• Eglise St Etienne in Caen: This 11th century church with a beautiful nave was built by William the Conqueror and houses his tomb (now desecrated). Admission is free but you can pay to go on a tour.

• Rouen Cathedral: Featured in a series of paintings by Monet, this gorgeous building was briefly the world’s tallest building in the late 1800’s.

With two towers and 56 bells, it also houses a tomb with the heart of Richard the Lionheart.

• Musée Jeanne d’Arc: 30 meters from the spot where Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake, this museum commemorates her life as well as the lives of three other native Rouen citizens. 33 place du Vieux Marché, 76000 Rouen. Website: www.jeanne-darc.com • If you find yourself in Normandy at the beginning of September, pay a visit to www.festival-deauville.com and check out the schedule for the annual American Film Festival held in Deauville.

Normandy

114 • Normandy WITH KIDS: • The Musée du Chemin de Fer is one of the biggest miniature railroads in Europe: 400 meters of track, 250 trains, 450 carriages, 650 houses, and more. Les Fours a Chaux in Clecy.

• Are your teens daredevils? Let them experience the ultimate thrill-seeking activity: bungee jumping!

The AJ Hackett Company allows you to plummet off of a 61 meter stone column (once the support for a collapsed railway bridge)... but only after you successfully navigate to the jump-deck via a suspension bridge! You can also try the “Scable,” where you’ll fly 400 meters across a valley at over 100 km/h. Note that these activities need to be booked in advance.

Website: www.ajhackett.fr • Vieux-la-Romaine is a Roman history museum about 15 km south of Caen. It has open archeological sites including an aqueduct, a Roman theatre, thermal baths, and an ancient villa.

• Go to the zoo! Zoo de Champrepus, 50 800 Villedieu-les-Poêles, Manche, Pays de la Baie du Mont Saint-Michel. Website: www.zoo-champrepus.com

Lyon • 115 En Lyon Route Enjoy this city by walking through the Presque L’ile, the city center around which the Rhône and Saône Rivers flow; the Opéra house; the Hôtel de Ville; Place de la Mairie; and the narrow cobblestone streets of Vieux Lyon.

MARKETS: You can find markets on boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Arr. 4), cours Lafayette (Arr. 3), quai Victor Augagneur (Arr. 3), and quai St.-Antoine (Arr.2). Markets are held Tuesday through Sunday.

LODGING:

Lyon

• Cour des Loges: An impressive monument to renaissance architecture, this old courtyard has been transformed into an open-air hotel lobby. Modern furnishings offer contrast. There are 63 rooms, each with unique décor. Four stars. Vieux-Lyon, 2868 rue du Boeuf 69005; Tel. (+33) 04 7277 4444.

• La Tour Rose: Part of the Small Luxury Hotels group. The hotel’s twelve exclusive suites are designed to reflect the history of silk and textile art through the ages: “In a former chapel, under a glass and steel roof, Phillippe Chavent innovatively combines nouvelle and classic cuisine with the fruits of his journeys.” Four stars. Vieux-Lyon, 22 rue

116 • Lyon du Boeuf 96005. From the U.S., call 1-800-5254800, or directly: Tel. (+33) 04 7837 2590. Website: www.slh.com/tourrose DINING: Lyon is considered the gastronomic center of France and quite possibly the world. There are many fine restaurants; we recommend making reservations.

• Bouchon Lyonnais Daniel et Denise: A traditional lyonnaise bistro with hearty French meals. Pix fixe menu available. 156 rue de Créqui; Tel. (+33) 04 7860 6653.

WITH KIDS: • On a hot day, take little ones to the square in front of the Hôtel de Ville (Place des Terraux), where 69 “dancing” jets of water spurt out of the ground at intervals. Grab something from a nearby café and watch the kids get soaked.

• Lyon’s museums and opera houses often offer itineraries and special shows for children.

• Visit one of the silk workshops.

Lyon • 117 En NOTES: Route

Lyon

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126 • Appendix A APPENDIX A: Useful Vocabulary French English pourboire the tip l’addition the bill la carte the menu saignant / à point / bien rare / medium / well cuit done (for steak) le plat du jour today’s special le carte des vins wine list déguster le vin taste the wine l’épicerie grocery store le supermarché supermarket le centre commercial mall equivalent le marché the market les produits laitiers dairy products le rayon de... (fruits) a department in a store les fruits fruit la viande meat les légumes vegetables le lait milk céréales, muesli cornflakes le pain bread les épices spices

Appendix B • 127 APPENDIX B: Metric Conversions France, like most European countries, uses the metric system. Here are the main conversions: Distances 1.6 km (1,600 metres) 0.9 meters 30 centimetres 2.5 centimetres

1 mile 1 yard 1 foot 1 inch

Weight 30 grams 1 ounce 455 grams 1 pound 1 kilogram (1000 grams) 2.2 pounds Volume 5 millilitres (ml) 15 ml 240 ml 3.8 litres

1 teaspoon 1 tablespoon 1 cup 1 gallon

Prefixes deci- (meter) centimillikilo- (meter) deca- (meter)

one tenth (of a meter) one hundredth one thousandth one thousand (meters) ten (meters)