Weekend - May 27, 2021

For the most up-to-date listing of events, go online to masslive.com/entertainment

Weekend

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LIVEWIRE: Mohegan Sun gears up for summer concert season, E4 BEER NUT: Get ready to belly up to the bar as COVID rules relax, E8 OFF THE MENU: Critics approach restaurant reviewing in pandemic, E9

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WEEKEND

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At left, the The Frary House at Historic Deerfield, built circa 1750, depicts the Colonial Revival home of Miss C. Alice Baker, as restored in the 1890s with New England antiques, Arts and Crafts needlework, ironware and basketry. At right, built in 1747, the Wells-Thorn House presents period rooms depicting the lifestyle of Deerfield residents in a progression from the early days of 1725 all the way up to the high-style of the 1850s. (HISTORIC DEERFIELD PHOTOS)

ON THE COVER

Historic Deerfield readies for summer Visitors welcome beginning Saturday

T

By Cori Urban

Special to The Republican

here is an air of excitement, optimism and caution as Historic Deerfield staff looks forward to having visitors onsite and showcasing what the village has to offer, even with limitations required by the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.

Opening day is Saturday, and visitors will be able to tour either the Wells-Thorn or Frary House, explore the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, take an outdoor walking tour, visit the History Workshop for a broom-making demonstration, explore the gardens and see what’s going on with the Stebbins House Archaeology Project.

“I think all of us at Historic Deerfield hope to provide a great experience for our visitors, even if there are restrictions due to the pandemic,” said Laurie A. Nivison, director of marketing. “Hopefully, as things progress with the pandemic, we will be able to open more of the museum.

Historic Deerfield itself is

such a beautiful place for folks to visit, so perhaps we can be an escape for anyone looking to getaway for a bit.”

Because of the pandemic restrictions, Historic Deerfield was not able to open until Labor Day weekend last year.

“The restrictions meant we could not have all of our historic houses open for touring and we would need to change how visitors could tour,” Nivison explained.

This included adding new outdoor walking tours on the history and architecture of Deerfield and through the burying ground. There was a focus on the exhibitions at the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, which is a large enough space for visitors to

One of the features of opening day at Historic Deerfield will be the Stebbins House Archaeology Project. Museum vsitors are invited to visit the excavation and talk to archaeologists at work as they follow-up on clues from a ground-penetrating radar survey. (HISTORIC DEERFIELD PHOTO)

social distance and visit safely. Larger activities could not take place last year, including the Patriots’ Day Muster and a sheep and wool event. “Hopefully we’ll be able to bring those back in 2022,” she said.

One of the features of opening day this year will be the Stebbins House Archaeology

Project. “The Stebbins House is being prepared for an upcoming restoration and part of that work includes archaeological research at the site,” Nivison said. “We recently had a ground-penetrating radar survey done of the site, and our staff will be following up on clues that came from

that survey – digging in places that may be of interest.”

Museum visitors are invited to visit the excavation and talk to the archaeologists at work.

Special programs and events also include: • Broom-making demonstrations at the History SEE DEERFIELD, PAGE E3

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WEEKEND

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 | E3

MOVIES

“Historic Deerfield itself is such a beautiful place for folks to visit, so perhaps we can be an escape for anyone looking to get away for a bit.”

LAURIE A. NIVISON, DIRECTOR OF MARKETING, HISTORIC DEERFIELD

CONTINUES FROM PAGE E2

Workshop (Saturdays).

Watch a broom being made by hand, learn about growing broomcorn and see broom-making tools and equipment.

• Summer evening strolls (June 6 and 20, July 4 and 18 and Aug. 1 and 22). Special guided evening walking tours along Old Main Street, followed by a discount on dinner and history trivia at Champney’s Restaurant at the Deerfield Inn. • Family Fun Days (July 10, Aug. 14). Enjoy special outdoor activities for families on the museum grounds, including a Storywalk, a craft activity, a self-guided, family-friendly scavenger hunt, storytelling and musical performances.

Before the pandemic, some 20,000 visitors came to Historic Deerfield annually.

“A visit to Historic Deerfield is not complete without a stop at our museum store and a bite to eat at Champney’s at the Deerfield Inn,” Nivison said. “We’re a great day trip and the spring and summer are great times to visit the village.”

It is strongly encouraged for visitors to purchase their tickets in advance online at historic-deerfield.org. So that all guests may safely and comfortably tour Historic Deerfield, the museum is now using a timed-entry ticketing system to facilitate social distancing.

Timed-entry tickets indicate visitor arrival time to the museum; timed-entry does not reserve a space on a tour.

Adult admission is $15

IF YOU GO What: Historic Deerfield.

The museum houses, the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, and the museum store will open Saturday.

Where: 84B Old Main Street, Deerfield When: May 29 – Nov. 28 Hours: Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and Monday holidays, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.

Admission: Adults $15; children under 17 are free.

Members and Deerfield and South Deerfield residents are free. The museum is now using a timed-entry ticketing system to facilitate social distancing, it is strongly encouraged for visitors to purchase their tickets in advance online at historic-deerfield.org.

More information: Visit historic-deerfield.org

with free admission for children age 17 and under for the 2021 season. As always, Historic Deerfield members and Deerfield/South Deerfield residents receive free admission.

During this period, admission tickets will only be available at the Flynt Center of Early New England Life. The Visitor Center at Hall Tavern will be closed.

Visitors should stop at the Flynt Center of Early New England Life to redeem their online tickets or purchase tickets. If purchasing walk-up (in person) tickets, visitor contact information will be collected at the time of ticket purchase in case contact tracing is needed.

The Flynt Center of Early New England Life is at 37D Old Main Street, Deerfield.

For more information go to historic-deerfield.org.

Vanessa Redgrave, left, and Christoph Waltz in “Georgetown.” (ALAN MARKFIELD/PARAMOUNT PICTURES)

ONLINE STREAMING

‘Georgetown’ leads new films

By Michael O’Sullivan and Ann Hornaday

sometimes wore an eye patch Waltz has the pathological and affected an aristocratsocial-climbing down to a T. Washington Post ic title. He also wore what But we never really get inside The bizarre true story of appeared to be a thrift-store Mott’s head – if that’s even Albrecht Muth, an eccentric military uniform and claimed possible. Still, “Georgetown” German native and compulto be a staff brigadier general is a fascinating guilty pleasive fabulist who murdered in the Iraqi Army.) Although sure, for anyone who rememhis Washingtonian wife, Viola “Georgetown” sometimes bers the case. R. Available Drath – 44 years his senior – feels like a true-crime movie on demand. Contains strong fascinated not just the tony made for TV, Waltz is capable language, brief nudity and residents of Georgetown, behind the camera, and his sensuality. 99 minutes. where the crime took place in direction of Redgrave and – Michael O’Sullivan 2011, but the world. A 2012 Annette Bening, as Brecht’s New York Times article, “The suspicious daughter, generAmong animation enthusiWorst Marriage in Georgeally stays out of their way, asts, the name Yuri Norstein town,” is now the basis for allowing them to do what they is spoken in hushed tones rea fictionalized drama about do best. As the main characserved for icons. The Russian SEE STREAM, PAGE E6 the case, which begins with a ter, he’s a bit too hands-off. disclaimer: “This film does not in any way claim to be the truth. Nevertheless, it was inspired by actual events.”

The directorial debut of 791/2 1/2Main MainSt., St.,Westfield Westfield •• 572-4914 572-4914 (Across (Across from from Walgreens Walgreens && Rocky’s 79 Rocky’s Hardware) Hardware) Christoph Waltz, “Georgetown” stars Waltz as Muth’s 79 1/2 Main St. • Westfield, MA Celebrating fictional counterpart, Ulrich (Across Walgreens && Rocky’s Rocky’s Hardware) Hardware) 30 Years!

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WEEKEND

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MUSIC

Mohegan Sun gears up for summer concert season

George Lenker

T

LiveWire

HE STAGE AT THE Mohegan Sun Arena has been quiet since winter 2020, but several concerts are planned for the Uncasville, Connecticut, casino in the months ahead.

“While much of the past year Mohegan Sun Arena was one of the few venues producing live events, it’s with great excitement we can now bring back live fans to enjoy both sports and entertainment at our world-class venue,” said Jeff Hamilton, president and general manager of Mohegan Sun. “As the summer approaches, Mohegan Sun will also be announcing additional events and festivities to take place across our property, including some of our most popular outdoor events.”

Air Supply will play the arena on Sunday, July 18; followed by Lady A on July 29; Dustin Lynch on Aug. 5; Straight No Chaser on Aug. 8; Deftones on Aug. 21; Tom Segura on Aug. 27; Toby Keith on Sept. 3; and back-to-back Sebastian Maniscalco dates on Oct. 1-2.

Other acts include Harry Styles, Oct. 23; Doobie Brothers, Oct. 28; The Monkees Farewell Tour, Oct. 29; and Dave Matthews Band, Nov. 9-10.

Major 2022 Mohegan Sun Arena concerts include The Weeknd on Feb. 6; Brad Paisley on May 27, 2022; and Justin Bieber on June 18, 2022.

• Duran Duran just released a new single, “Invisible,” in tandem with official details about the band’s 15th studio album, “Future Past,” which will be released on Oct. 22.

The album will feature special guest Graham Coxon of Blur on guitar, David Toby Keith, Air Supply and Lady A are among acts scheduled to play the arena at Mohegan Sun Bowie’s former pianist Mike Garson, and guest vocals in Uncasville, Conn., this summer. (THE REPUBLICAN FILE PHOTO) from Lykke Li. Producers on • The Parlor Room in support act. The 44-date tour various tracks include Erol Northampton has been will kick off in Las Vegas on Alkan, Giorgio Moroder “As the summer awarded a $10,000 grant Aug. 20 and will make two and Mark Ronson. approaches, from the Live Music Society, regional stops: at the Xfinity Keyboardist Nick Rhodes an organization committed to Theatre in Hartford on Sep described the new single.

Mohegan Sun will giving $2 million in grants in 29 and Fenway Park in Bos“Sonic architecture has alalso be announcing its first two years of operaton on Oct. 1. ways been incredibly importadditional events tion to support the live music Tickets go on sale May 27 at ant to Duran Duran. I think, ecosystem around the United 10 a.m. local time at Jonas with ‘Invisible,’ we really and festivities to Brothers.com/Tour. have managed to carve the take place across our States.

The Parlor Room was one sculpture the way we wanted property, including of just 16 independent music • Dan Smalls Presents has it,” he said. “Sonically, it’s a venues across the nation announced a slate of great au- very unusual piece of music. some of our most to receive a grant between tumn shows coming to several I think when you merge all popular outdoor $10,000 and $50,000. local venues. the instruments together, it events.”

In 2020, the LMS provided The concerts include creates an overall sound that a lifeline to small, indepenMadeleine Peyroux & Joan perhaps you haven’t heard Jeff Hamilton, president and dent music venues that were Osborne at the Academy of before.” general manager, Mohegan Sun forced to close their doors due to the COVID-19 pandemic, providing more than 244 Fuller Rd., Chicopee, MA ey Maker Tour,” which was $800,000 in grants. postponed last year due to the With the first two rounds of pandemic. awards now complete, LMS The tour, which will be sup- will have dispersed over $1.5 ported by special guests Dirty million, with a third round of Honey, will make a stop at grants coming this fall.

Xfinity Theatre in Hartford on July 25.

• The Jonas Brothers Another treat for fans will will be back on the road for Sponsored by Gallagher’s Olde Fashioned Service be that longtime bass player the first time since their Sven Pipien will be returning “Happiness Begins” tour in EVERY THURSDAY NIGHT STARTING JUNE 3RD to the band for the tour.

2019 sold over 1.2 million JUNE 3 JUNE 10 JUNE 17 Tickets are on sale now at tickets and grossed over $120 DJ Gary TheBlackCrowes.com. million.

DJ Gary DJ Gary Back In Time All fans who purchased The 2021 “Remember Back In Time Back In Time Buick, Olds & tickets for the previously This” tour will also feature Mopar Night Jeep Night Pontiac Night announced 2020 dates will be country music superstar honored for the 2021 shows.

Kelsea Ballerini as the Family Fun for Everyone • All proceeds go to Moose Charities

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Liner notes • The Black Crowes just announced rescheduled dates of their “Shake Your Mon-

Music Theatre in Northampton and Popa Chubby at Gateway City Arts in Holyoke, both on Sept. 10; Mdou Moctar on Sept. 11 at Gateway City Arts; and Okkervil River (solo) and Damien Jurado at Gateway City Arts on Oct. 7.

For a full listing of DSP concerts, go to dspshows.com.

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WEEKEND

Daisy Ridley, Manchee the dog and Tom Holland in the movie “Chaos Walking.” (MURRAY CLOSE / LIONSGATE)

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 | E5

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from the settlers’ home The movie adaptation of an planet, Earth, represents a award-winning young adult colonization opportunity sci-fi series tops the DVD gone wrong,” explains Crust. releases for this week.

“Similar to Earth in many “Chaos Walking”: Based ways, the beautifully dystoon the book “The Knife of pian planet features breathNever Letting Go,” the first able air, drinkable water, entry in a series by Patrick lush forests and perpetual Ness, the movie stars Daisy daylight. Unfortunately, it is Ridley and Tom Holland, also home to an unwelcome of “Star Wars” and “Spinative species, the Spackle or der-Man” fame, respectively. Spacks, and its atmosphere In development for nearhas a disorienting effect on ly a decade, the sci-fi film males, wherein their every “is neither the disaster one thought is broadcast aloud to might fear nor the thrilling others.” hoped-for first installment Without the proper filter, of a would-be trilogy,” Los An- this disorienting effect causes geles Times critic Kevin Crust men to be “chaos walking.” writes in his review.

Women, unaffected by this “The year is 2257 A.D. and phenomena, supposedly SEE DVD, PAGE E11 New World, a 64-year journey

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E6 | THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021

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MOVIES

Stream CONTINUES FROM PAGE E3

artist, best known for such classics as “The Tale of Tales” and “Hedgehog in the Fog,” is worshiped for his sensitive, wistful aesthetic and commitment to handcrafted process (no digital cheating for him).

He’s particularly admired in Japan, where such as animators Hayao Miyazaki and Osamu Tezuka consider him a master of the form. For the past 40 years, Norstein has been working on an adaptation of Nikolai Gogol’s “The Overcoat,” a project that has grown in legend the more it has stopped and started. In “Making ‘The Overcoat,’” Japanese filmmaker Ryo Saitani visits Norstein in his cluttered Moscow studio to find out what’s stalling him and get a glimpse of the 25 minutes Norstein has committed to film. “Making ‘The Overcoat’” isn’t particularly well made, and Saitani’s interviews with Norstein often result in a frustrating sense of shapelessness. (A scene in which he hectors Norstein about “everyone” waiting for “The Overcoat” is especially cringeworthy.) But even amid the juddering camera work and flaccid editing, “Making ‘The Overcoat’” is worth it, if only to see Norstein’s brilliant past work and those exquisite sketches and clips from the titular work in progress – a soulful, chiaroscuro masterpiece-in-the-making suffused with Norstein’s distinctive melancholy and abiding humanism. This is must-see viewing for aficionados and initiates alike. Unrated. Available through Sunday at pushkinhouse.org. Contains nothing objectionable. In Russian and Japanese with subtitles. 109 minutes.

– Ann Hornaday In 2014, Ukrainian filmmaker Sergei Loznitsa made “Maidan,” a transfixing documentary about the civil uprisings in Kyiv, constructed of long, observant takes of increasingly unruly crowds moving through the titular

According to Variety, playwright Luigi Pirandello (author of the absurdist drama “Six Characters in Search of an Au“Blast Beat” tells the story thor,”) “definitely would have of Colombian brothers, played approved of the spirit” behind by real-life siblings Moises this “small-scale” identity and Mateo Arias, whose purcomedy. Unrated. Available at suit of the American Dream afisilver.afi.com. In English and falters after their family emHindi with subtitles. 95 minutes. igrates to Atlanta so the boys can finish high school in the The directorial debut of United States. Variety calls the 21-year-old Suzanne Lindon, coming-of-age story a “slenwho wrote the screenplay der” yet “sincere” drama of when she was 15, “Spring dislocation. Unrated. Available Blossom” follows Suzanne, on demand. 105 minutes. a 16-year-old, bored by her peers (and played by the The documentary “Hating director), who becomes Peter Tatchell” is a portrait obsessed with a man 20 of the outspoken British gay years older than her (Arnaud rights activist. TV-MA. AvailValois). “Ultimately,” says able on Netflix. 91 minutes.

Slant magazine, “the film ends on a note of wistful but placid “Rockfield: The Studio on understanding that finds the the Farm” takes a documenyoung woman attain some of tary look at a Welsh farm that the maturity she assumed she was turned into a residential already possessed.” Unrated. recording studio by brothers Available at afisilver.afi.com.

Kingsley and Charles Ward, In French with subtitles. 73 whose business served the minutes. likes of Black Sabbath, Queen, Robert Plant, Iggy Pop, Simple The art documentary “ExhiMinds, Oasis, the Stone Roses bition on Screen: Sunflowers” and Coldplay. It’s an “agreetakes an extended look at the able” film, according to the five publicly owned versions New York Times, yet one “best of Vincent van Gogh’s paintappreciated by rock mavens.” ings of sunflowers in a vase Unrated. Available at afisilver.

Unrated. Available at virtualaafi.com. 90 minutes. valon.org. 85 minutes. streaming platforms. Contains violence and crude language throughout. 118 minutes.

Animator Yuri Norstein in his studio in the documentary “Making ‘The Overcoat.’” (STAGE RUSSIA)

city square. With “State Funeral,” Loznitsa employs a similar strategy, this time combing through hundreds of hours of documentary footage of Joseph Stalin’s 1953 funeral to construct a meditative, deeply engrossing portrait of ritualized grief and public memory. Starting with images of Soviet citizens learning of Stalin’s sudden death and ending with the dictator’s internment in Lenin’s tomb, “State Funeral” unfolds like a silent pageant, the only narration provided by propagandistic eulogies over loudspeakers.

(Think of Armando Iannucci’s “The Death of Stalin” without the antic wit.) Using images taken by 200 camera operators stationed throughout the far-flung Soviet republic, Loznitsa creates a portrait that is simultaneously dreamlike and immediate, poetic and polemical, with the Soviet Union’s multitude of ethnic communities expressing state-approved grief in weird lockstep. It’s easy to dismiss it all – the copious tears, the never-ending queues, the ever-larger wreaths being carefully placed and preened over – as so much political theater. This is the man, as Loznitsa’s postscript reminds us, who exterminated millions of Soviet citizens. But he’s also the man who saw the USSR emerge victorious from the ravages of World War II. Without subtitles, and only the fascinating tableau of faces to go by, it’s hard to know what’s in the hearts and minds of “State Funeral’s” subjects.

Like 2010’s “The Autobiography of Nicolai Ceaucescu,” Loznitsa’s film stands as a work of archival ambition and psychological ambiguity, as much about obedience and cultish denial as it is a visually stunning time capsule (the black-and-white and color images have been dazzlingly restored). It’s not every day one can witness mythmaking in real time. Unrated. Available on Mubi. Contains nothing objectionable. In Russian without subtitles. 135 minutes.

– Ann Hornaday Also streaming Eric Bana stars in “The Dry,” an Australian drama about a police detective who returns to his rural hometown to investigate a crime he comes to believe is related to a decades-old mystery.

Bana delivers a “sober, soulful performance,” according to the Hollywood Reporter, in this “moody” and “slow-burn” thriller. R. Available on various

Eric Bana in “The Dry.” (IFC FILMS)

Written and directed by Indian filmmaker Rajat Kapoor, “RK/RKAY” is a meta-movie about moviemaking in which the fictional main character of a film-within-the-film (played

by Kapoor) steps out the story he’s in and runs away, pursued by its director (also Kapoor).

The documentary “Two Gods” follows Hanif, a Muslim casket maker in New Jersey who is mentoring rambunctious 12-yearold Furquan and the more hardened 17-year-old Naz, both of whom need guidance.

According to the Hollywood Reporter, the film “seems to be saying that, no matter what faith you practice in America, religion can provide viable solutions when nothing else does.” Unrated. Available at afisilver.afi.com. 85 minutes.

A trio of barflies try to track down a winning lottery ticket that was stolen from them in “Two Lottery Tickets,” which the Chicago Reader calls an “enjoyably deadpan Romanian comedy.” Unrated. Available at cinemaartstheatre.com.

In Romanian with subtitles. 86 minutes.

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WEEKEND

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 | E7

MOVIES REVIEW

‘A Quiet Place Part II’ a missed opportunity

T

By Katie Walsh

in new daddy figure, Emmett (Cillian Murphy), a neighbor who has been camping out hree years in an abandoned steel mill ago, “The sketching drawings of his dead children.

Office” Once there, they proceed to star John do the things they always do: whisper, creep, keep a baby Krasinski in a cooler outfitted with an planted his flag as oxygen tank. We watch as a big-budget genre they collect medicines, get stuck in dumb places and filmmaker with the embark on stupidly heroic high-concept, soundmissions, beckoned by the sound of Bobby Darin croonbased monster movie ing “Beyond the Sea” over “A Quiet Place.” The and over again on the radio, film, written by Bryan another beacon. Everything is unnecessarily complicated Woods and Scott Beck and bound to go wrong at with Krasinski, was a some point even without the lethally murderous sound piece of well-crafted aliens; it’s obviously written schlock, impeccably this way to try and eke out a drop of drama or suspense sound-designed and where Krasinski could othershot, starring Krawise write none.

From left, Millicent Simmonds, Noah Jupe and Emily Blunt brave the unknown in “A Quiet Place sinski’s wife Emily What’s so maddening Part II.” (JONNY COURNOYER / PARAMOUNT PICTURES / TNS) about “A Quiet Place Part Blunt in an effortfully II” is the unused potential. near-silent perforthe best and worst part of the dirty bare feet than a Quentin Krasinski opens up the world ‘A QUIET PLACE film. Certain aspects don’t Tarantino film (and that’s and timeline of the film, but mance. Co-starring PART II’ quite jive with the timeline, saying something). Their doesn’t utilize it in any meandeaf actress Millicent but what’s most frustrating is flooded home littered with ingful way, introducing new rtss Simmonds as their that as the aliens alight on this alien carcasses left from the ideas but then jettisoning the Running time: 97 min. picturesque small town for the climax of the first film, Evelyn opportunity. Again and again Rated: PG-13 daughter Regan, the first time, we finally get some (Blunt) and her children make he falls back on more of the Playing: In theaters Friday. use of sign language thrills and chills. Though Kra- their way to the next house same old tricks from “A Quiet Cinemark Enfield, Hadley, sinski gratuitously grants him- over, looking for shelter and Place,” which was a bore to and hearing aids made West Springfield; Greenfield Garden Cinemas; self a Michael Bay-style hero help. Krasinski quickly subs begin with. for some innovative Regal MGM Springfield; shot (it is produced by Bay’s South Hadley’s Tower visual storytelling and imprint Platinum Dunes), as Theaters the aliens rip through town, monster fighting. the action is captured in But lift the hood on “A Quiet incredibly exciting long takes, Place” and it doesn’t stand and run with it, but in keepoffering a promising version up to scrutiny. The film has ing with his own characters’ of a classic Godzilla-style ata single idea, the character moronic decision-making, tack on Americana that would and story choices reverse-en- writer/director Krasinski have been an interesting twist A new exclusive toy gineered to stuff drama into instead stays right where he on the monster genre, with from Satisfyer a dangerous, yet inherently started, offering up a film plenty of gore and action. staid situation. Suffused that would have been the But instead of remaining in and Adam & Eve with a deeply earnest sense next 90 minutes of “A Quiet this mode, we’re transported of self-seriousness but not Place.” The events of “Part II” all too quickly back to Day a shred of humor, camp, or occur immediately after the 474 to creep around an old self-awareness, “A Quiet events of the first film, with a farmhouse, barefoot. The Place” is horror for people short “Day 1” prologue that fact that none of the family who don’t seem to like horror reverse-engineers Krasinski ever wear shoes, ostensibly to Everyone Pleasure, Adventure, & Fun Transgender all that much. back on screen. minimize sound, becomes an Welcome 18 Main St., Greenfield, MA • 413-774-9800 “A Quiet Place Part II” offers The prologue is profoundly annoying and unnecessary www.Greenfield.AdamEveStores.com the chance to take the concept confounding, simultaneously tic: there are more shots of Mon-Thurs 10am-9pm, Fri. & Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 12pm-7pm AdamEveGreenfieldMA AEStoresGreenfield Tribune News Service

The Perfect Date to Leave You

Breathless

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E8 | THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021

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DINE & WINE

Get ready to belly up to the bar as COVID rules relax

S

UMMER UNOFFIcially starts Memorial Day weekend, and recent news should augur an even more-than-usual celebratory mood.

As of May 29, the state says it will lift many of the restrictions that have been put in place due to COVID-19. For beer drinkers like myself, there is one key aspect that is worth more celebration than some of the others: Being able to belly up to a bar.

There is a subculture among barflies that subsists of those of us who do not want to sit at a table – even a table that is close to the bar. We want a seat at the bar itself. It’s just different, and those who know what I mean will, well, know what I mean.

Sitting at the bar itself puts you in a random community

out that will take a month or so to achieve at many venues. This is for several reasons, starting with ramping up staff numbers to handle the extra business that bars and restaurants will be getting.

“I think staffing is going to be a huge issue for the service industry,” said Drew Starkweather, owner of Progression George Lenker Brewing in Northampton.

Beer Nut Starkweather said he has no plans to jump in right away. that certainly can be annoying at “It’s twofold; we are not sure times, but also often is magical. people are ready for the transiMost of the time it’s just lowtion, and staff is hard to come key cool, but the possibility for by these days, so we don’t want some entertaining engagement to overwhelm our crew.” always keeps it interesting.

One brewery that hadn’t Now bar seating isn’t going to even opened its doors before just magically appear at most the pandemic hit is also taking establishments. My guess is that a slower approach. Raymond it will be a somewhat slow rollBerry, owner of White Lion in

downtown Springfield, said he will be making some announcements next week, but is “gearing up for a mid-June opening.”

But with businesses no longer being subject to capacity limits, all bars, breweries, wineries and distilleries being able to open to pre-pandemic levels, with social distancing rules being rescinded, some venues are going to be ready to go more quickly than others.

Luckily for me, my local, the Northampton Brewery, will be ahead of most, although not completely. Starting on May 29, the brewery will begin by having bar seating in a limited format. What this means is that you will be formally seated at the bar like you would for a table, as opposed to just casually walking up and sitting

down as you would normally.

The brewery initially wants to prevent cramped quarters that often can be caused by people standing and hovering near the bar. But as long as a seat is available, staff will seat you.

This will put bar seats at a premium for me and members of my bar-sitter tribe, but any bar seats at all is cause for celebration.

Of course, this is all due to the efficacy of the vaccine. So if you haven’t got your shots yet, allow me to implore you to do so. Trust the science. We craft beer lovers certainly trust the science of brewing. Let’s make sure we extend that belief to vaccines that are not only saving lives, but also getting society back to normal.

See you at the bars this summer.

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WEEKEND

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 | E9

DINE & WINE

Critics approach restaurant reviewing in pandemic

I

N THE CRAFT OF REviewing restaurants, the pinnacle of that profession is undoubtedly the job of dining out critic for the New York Times, a position that’s been occupied by a memorable roster of hired bellies - Craig Claiborne, Jay Jacobs, and Ruth Reichl, just to name a few. Working one of the world’s great restaurant cities, it has been the assignment of the Times critic to eat his or her way around the five boroughs, promoting those eateries deemed praiseworthy and sometimes humbling those of lofty pretensions.

When restaurants were forced to close in March of 2020, Pete Wells, the current Times critic, found that traditional role upended by a new reality. With no restaurant experiences available to scrutinize, Wells pivoted to reporting and began writing about the struggles of an industry put on hold.

In June of 2020, “outdoor dining” was first permitted in the Big Apple, and Wells cautiously returned to his critic role. The “star” rating system for restaurants was, however, suspended, and reviews shifted to capturing not only how good the food and service was but how effectively and creatively the restaurant had adapted.

The second New York indoor dining shutdown in fall 2020 presented Wells with a new dilemma. For those restaurants not offering what he considered a “safe” outdoor experience (Wells defined “safe” on the basis of airflow), he took the first-time step of reviewing a restaurant based solely on delivery.

Wells’ experiences as a restaurant critic during the pandemic are described in a piece he wrote for the Times Insider, a behind-the-scenes blog that details how content comes together at that world-class media outlet. The article, “Change by the Plateful: Covering Restaurants in a Pandemic,” is available at

Inn, where they can enjoy a 20% discount on entrees from Champney’s regular dinner menu.

Six tours are planned for the summer months, with the first two, which are scheduled for June 6 and June 20, focusing on the Arts & Crafts movement of the late 19th century.

Tour tickets are $10.

Contact Champney’s Restaurant at 413-772-3087 for more details.

Delaney’s Market locations across Hampden County have recently released an updated menu of restaurant style take-out and heat-at-home options. (DAVE ROBACK / THE REPUBLICAN FILE PHOTO)

Hugh Robert Off The Menu

nytimes.com/2021/02/17/ insider/17insider-restau rants-pandemic.html

with a Wednesday pre-order deadline, the marinated and dry-rub protein items are sold by the pound.

A full listing of available products can be found at del aneysmarket.com; curbside pick-up and local delivery are available on request.

There are Delaney’s Market locations on Boston Road in Wilbraham, on East Main Street in Westfield, and on Bliss Road in Longmeadow.

• Spoleto in Northampton has extended its hours of operation this month, adding Side dishes Sunday evening service to the • The three Delaney’s schedule.

Market locations across Offering both indoor and Hampden County have outdoor dining, Spoleto is recently released an updated now open Tuesday through menu of restaurant style take- Sunday evenings from 4 to 9 out and heat-at-home options. p.m., with service extended Listing around 50 different on Friday and Saturday evemenu selections that are put nings until 10 p.m. up as individual entree porThe restaurant answers at tions as well as packs for two 413-586-6313. or four, the choices include the likes of pan-fried chicken • This summer, Historic cutlets, lemon garlic shrimp, Deerfield and Champney’s Gorgonzola beef tips, and Restaurant at the Deerfield more.

Inn are teaming up to bring These main dish possibiltogether history and fine dinities are supplemented by ing in the form of a “Sunday salads, soups and sandwiches, Summer Stroll.” as well as two dozen plus sides Each Stroll begins at 4 and deli salads. p.m. with a walking tour of A ready-to-grill meats seHistoric Deerfield enhanced lection has also been added to by entertainment, music, and the Delaney’s Market lineup. poetry. At 5 p.m. tour particiAvailable for weekend pickup pants return to the Deerfield

presentation over toast with hollandaise.

Currently operating seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., the Bluebonnet offers a rotating lineup of comfort food specialities such as American chop suey, franks & beans, a roast turkey dinner, and “broasted” chicken, The diner answers at 413584-3333.

• The Tequila Pairing Dinner originally scheduled • It’s asparagus season, and for May 27 at the Irish House locally grown asparagus have Restaurant in West Springmade their way onto a numfield has been rescheduled to ber of area restaurant menus. June 10 at 6 p.m.

The Bluebonnet Diner in The particulars for the event Northampton is featuring the remain the same – four courstasty spears in an asparagus es, each paired with a different SEE MENU, PAGE E11 omelet as well as in a classical

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WEEKEND

E10 | THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021

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DINE & WINE

7 French rose wines perfect to kick off summer

T

ECHNICALLY, SUMmer doesn’t officially start for another month or so.

But for many of us, Memorial Day weekend often feels like the start of the summer season, especially since we have been having such warm, summer-like weather already in New England this spring.

So with the long weekend right around the corner, I thought now would be a great time to recommend some French rose wines to help kick off the season in style.

Rose wines used to get a bad rap. Even now, I still sometimes run into a few dinosaurs who think rose wine is not “real” wine.

Let me assure you. If you’re serious about wine and love subtle, understated flavors, you can easily find them in many, outstanding rose wines.

And while nearly every wine region around the world nowadays produces rose wine, you will find some of the best ones come from France and in particular the Provence region. There, many winemakers have spent decades or generations perfecting rose wine to an art form.

Below, you’ll find several recommendations for rose wines from France.

The wines range in price from $8.99 to $40 a bottle.

Some are easy to find. Others might take a bit of work.

Either way, I hope you enjoy them as much as I do on a warm, summer afternoon – even when it’s not technically summer.

Ken Ross Wine Press

Retail Price) • 2020 Minuty Prestige Cotes De Provence Rose ($23 SRP) • 2020 Domaines Ott By.Ott Cotes De Provence Rose ($23 SRP) • 2020 Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Cotes De Provence Cru Classe ($40 SRP) Why is rose wine pink?

Rose wines are made with red wine grapes. (You can read more below about the grapes often used to make rose wines.) So why do rose wines look pink or lighter in color compared to red wines?

Because after being picked, the grape skins in rose wines are in contact for less time with the grape juice used to make the wine compared to grapes used to make red wine. It’s that simple – less grape skin contact, lighter colored wine.

French rose wines recommended by Ken Ross to kick off summer with. (KEN ROSS PHOTO)

French rose wine regions Nearly every wine region in France makes rose wine.

But certain places make more rose – and often better rose – wine than others. France’s Provence region remains the king of rose in France and frankly anywhere in the world. Other French wine regions well known for making rose wines include the Loire Valley and Languedoc region.

Wines recommended this week • 2019 Racine Cotes De Provence Rose ($9.99 at Table & Vine in West Springfield) • 2019 Bruno Lafon Un Jardin D’Ete Rose ($9.99 at Table & Vine) • 2019 Bruno Lafon Summer Dew Rose ($8.99 at Table & Vine) • 2020 Minuty M Cotes De Several of the Rose wines from France featured this week.

Provence Rose ($18 Suggested (KEN ROSS PHOTO)

More about Provence No discussion about rose wine would be complete without focusing on this stunning coastal region in the south of France. Provence is one of the fastest growing wine regions in France. In 2017, sales of Provence wines in the United States increased by 30%. The next year, sales of Provence rose wine increased by 14% in the United States in 2018.

To put these numbers in perspective, Provence produced 170 million bottles of wine in 2019, 90% of which was rose wine. And worldwide, roughly 5% of all rose wines in the world come from Provence.

Tasting notes 2019 Racine Cotes De Provence Rose Region: Provence, France Grapes: Blend of cinsault, grenache and syrah Tasting notes: The 2018 vintage of this wine was one of my top 10 favorite wines under $10 in 2019. The 2019 tastes just a great. This wine has a slightly tart, yet spicy finish to start. Soon, those flavors soften slightly, revealing a slight hint of sea salt, pear and lime.

A truly outstanding wine at an incredible price.

2019 Bruno Lafon Un Jardin D’Ete Rose Region: Languedoc, France Common rose wine grapes Grapes: 50% cinsault, 50% Grenache is the most popular grenache grape used to make Provence Tasting notes: Like the first rose wines. The other four rose wine listed above, this grapes often blended with gre- delightful, refreshing wine has nache to make these wines are a slightly tart finish to start. cinsault, mourvedre, syrah and However, very quickly, this tibouren. But as rose has concrisp wine has a wide range of tinued to blossom in popularity, flavors, including lemon, lime so has the wide range of grapes and an overall light, understatused to make rose wines around ed finish. Another delightful, the world. Some winemakers affordable rose wine from use pinot noir and a wide range France.

SEE WINE, PAGE E12 of other grapes.

THE REPUBLICAN | MASSLIVE.COM

DVD CONTINUES FROM PAGE E5

perished in a war with the Spackle, leaving an all-male settlement ruled by the menacing Mads Mikkelsen. Into this situation enters Ridley’s character, the lone survivor of a settler ship who crash lands on New World.

“The stars don’t fare too badly, as their innate appeal retains intact,” Crust writes.

Holland’s conflicted man-boy dealing with a meta-power isn’t far removed from Peter Parker, but he’s really good at it. Ridley’s Viola is strong, confident and capable and the actor’s winsomeness is occasionally allowed to break through. The duo share a spark or two but the relationship is never allowed to roam

Menu CONTINUES FROM PAGE E9

tequila cocktail. Tickets are $45 and can be ordered by calling 413-342-4358 • A Meadow City dining landmark, Sylvester’s Restaurant in Northampton, has resumed operations after a winter season shutdown.

Currently doing business Thursday and Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and on Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sylvester’s has indoor and outdoor seating available along with online ordering and curbside pickup.

The Spring 2021 menu is a streamlined fusion of breakfast and lunch inspirations, but nonetheless offers plenty from which to choose.

Two eggs, any style are available and can be supplemented by a host of add-ons.

Banana bread French toast and a Belgian waffle can be enjoyed, as can a local asparagus omelet.

In a savory midday vein, Sylvester’s is currently suggesting the likes of avocado toast, homemade soup, and a sweet & savory chicken salad.

The full menu can be viewed at sylvesters restaurant.com; the restau-

WEEKEND

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 | E11

anywhere near the boundaries of the film’s PG-13 rating; sexual tension is kept well below simmer. The stellar supporting cast, especially Mikkelsen and Cynthia Erivo in a role that demands more attention from one of those doubtful sequels, also goes a long way toward the movie’s watchability.”

Also new on DVD “Long Weekend”: A quirky young woman enters the life of a struggling writer at just the right moment in this romantic comedy.

“American Fighter”: A college wrestler enters the dangerous world of underground fighting to get the money needed to save his ailing mother. Stars George Kosturos, Tommy Flanagan and Sean Patrick Flanery.

Finn Wittrock and Zoe Chao appear in a scene from “Long Weekend.” (SONY PICTURES)

“Happily”: In this dark rom-com, a happily married couple, played by Joel McHale and Kerry Bishe, discover their friends are jealous of their healthy relationship.

The story takes a turn when a mysterious stranger arrives promising to correct the loving couple’s “defect.”

“Supernatural”: The Complete Fifteenth and Fi-

permanent menu upgrade, but yet-unresolved operational issues that arose during the option’s rollout may, according to Subway sources, end up precluding that permanent status.

• The Crest Room in West Springfield continues to offer interesting-sounding entree creations.

Its “layered” mac & cheese includes strata of barbecued brisket and cornbread The Bluebonnet Diner, 324 King St. in Northampton, is emfinished with a BBQ sauce bracing asparagus season, featuring the spears in an asparadrizzle; the restaurant’s gus omelet as well as in a classical presentation over toast with blueberry bacon salad is hollandaise. (DON TREEGER / THE REPUBLICAN FILE PHOTO) tossed with dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, and Gorgonrant’s telephone number is away. Customers who order zola crumbles before being 413-586-1418. a Ch’King using either the dressed with a lemon balsamBurger King app or website ic vinaigrette.

• Burger King Restauwill receive a free Whopper Recent weekend breakfasts rants will be introducing a in addition to their chicken have featured strawberry new chicken sandwich nation- sandwich. cream cheese stuffed French wide June 3. toast and a BBQ brisket omFeaturing a hand-breaded • Subway Restaurants elet served with home fries breast filet, the sandwich, have introduced a new menu and toast. which the chain has dubbed option for its custom-crafted On Fridays the Crest Room the Ch’King, will be available footlong sandwiches. Desigoffers a family fish & chips in three versions – regular, nated as “Fresh Melts,” these deal to go. Sized to serve four, “Spicy,” and a lettuce-and-to- sandwich variations incorpo- the pack includes fried fish, mato-garnished “Deluxe.” rate triple portions of cheese fries, and coleslaw.

Each sandwich is presented oven-melted during the The Crest Room answers at on a potato bread bun and sandwich assembly process.

413-739-7700. also features a signature The extra cheese triggers a $1 sauce. premium that’s added into the • Continuing the brand’s The Ch’King will be prosandwich’s price. engagement with all things moted until June 20 by way The triple-cheese “Melt” bacon, participating Wenof a digital platform givewas originally planned as a dy’s Company locations

nal Season”: Catch up on the final adventures of the Winchester boys, Sam and Dean, as the long-running TV series concludes after 15 seasons of fighting demons and other supernatural beings.

“My Fair Lady”: The 1964 classic starring Audrey Hepburn and Rex Harrison, which won eight Academy Awards, including best picture, is now available in ultra-high definition for the first time thanks to a recent 8K film transfer.

This 4K UHD/Blu-ray combo includes more than two hours of special features.

Out on Digital HD “Deliver Us From Evil”: An assassin trying to solve a kidnapping case finds himself becoming the hunted as he’s chased by a man looking for revenge in this Korean film.

have added a Bourbon bacon cheeseburger to its permanent menu.

Topped with bacon, American cheese, Bourbon bacon sauce, and crunchy fried onions, the hamburger is served on a toasted bun.

• The MAX Restaurant Group has gotten an early start on its Max Chef to Farm Dinners this year, offering a series of three spring “pre-season” events at Max Downtown in Hartford.

The third and last of those preview events is scheduled for June 10 at 6:30 p.m. Billed as a “forager dinner,” it will have a Loire Valley theme, featuring wines from that region’s older vineyards and sustainably-run wineries.

The five course meal will include delicacies like white asparagus, foie gras stuffed figs, and crispy soft-shell crab.

The dinner has a base ticket price of $96; tickets can be ordered online at maxrestaurantgroup.com/calendar.

Hugh Robert is a faculty member in Holyoke Community College’s hospitality and culinary arts program and has nearly 45 years of restaurant and educational experience.

Robert can be reached online at OffTheMenuGuy@aol.com.

WEEKEND

E12 | THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021

THE REPUBLICAN | MASSLIVE.COM

And while nearly every wine region around the world nowadays produces rose wine, you will find some of the best ones come from France and in particular the Provence region. There, many winemakers have spent decades or generations perfecting rose wine to an art form.

Wine CONTINUES FROM PAGE E10

2019 Bruno Lafon Summer Dew Rose Region: Vin de Pays – IGP, France Grapes: Blend of cinsault and grenache Tasting notes: Here again, the flavors have a very light, understated finish. However, there’s a slightly fruitier finish to this wine, with flavors ranging from peach and melon mixed with a dash of lemon. There’s even a slight effervescence every once in a while. A wonderful wine that is perfect for a warm, summer afternoon.

2020 Minuty M Cotes De Provence Rose Region: Provence, France Grapes: Blend of cinsault and grenache Tasting notes: If you prefer your rose wines on the drier side, the next four wines will be music to your ears. This flinty yet floral wine has a wonderful, subtle finish with hints of peach and lemon. All these understated flavors last nearly half a minute after each taste. A great wine perfect with a wide range of food (oysters, strawberries, trout) or perfect on its own.

passing breeze, gently washing over your palate rather than overwhelming you. It is a beautiful wine from a picture-perfect place.

2020 Domaines Ott By.Ott Cotes De Provence Rose Region: Provence, France Grapes: Blend of cinsault, grenache and syrah Tasting notes: Jean-Francois Ott serves as the co-director of Clos Mireille and Domaines Ott located in La Londe-les-Maures, France. While there are many great rose winemakers in Provence, Ott has consistently helped raise the bar by producing distinct, understated, outstanding rose wines. This dry, subtle wine has a refreshing finish with hints of fresh melon and sea salt. Give this wine time (about half an hour) to open up and slowly reveal its secrets. Trust me. It’s well worth the wait.

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2020 Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Cotes De Provence Cru Classe Region: Provence, France Grapes: Blend of cinsault, grenache and syrah Tasting notes: An absolutely outstanding rose wine, I first tasted the 2017 vintage of this wine with Ott at his winery in 2018.

2020 Minuty Prestige The 2020 vintage hits all Cotes De Provence Rose the right notes as well. This Region: Provence, France crisp, bright wine has a Grapes: Blend of cinsault, mineral-like finish with hints grenache, syrah and tibouren of melon, pear, sea salt and Tasting notes: Another a touch of roasted almonds. wonderful, dry, understatIt is a truly wonderful wine ed rose wine from Chateau from an absolutely magical Minuty, an outstanding win- place. ery located near the MediterCheers ! ranean Sea in the dream-like village of Saint Tropez. This Wine Press by Ken Ross wine tastes slightly more appears on Masslive.com every understated and refined than Monday and in The Repubthe previous wine. Here, lican’s weekend section every the flavors seem more like a Thursday.

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