Summer of French cooking with Julia Childs

ONE OF THIS SUMmer’s guilty pleasures has been watching Julia Child’s “The French Chef,” her collaboration with Boston’s WGBY. Currently being released weekly on YouTube by PBS Distribution, the programs were groundbreaking when first aired in the 1960s, defining French cookery for a generation.

Now, of course, the halfhour shows can seem deliciously retro, with Child assembling a “fancy” molded timbale from leftover roast lamb and instant mashed potatoes. The programs also reflect the popular preconceptions of what “French food” is all about — bouillabaisse, onion soup gratin, quiche, and creme brulee — and thus serve as a distant echo of mid-20th century attitudes about what a “fine dining” experience should be.

Contemporary restaurant cookery in France is far different from what Child showed us. Defined in part by successive waves of immigration as well as by influences from other cultures, modern French restaurant cuisine tends to be more ingredient-focused, with impeccably fresh, perfectly prepared food served without elaborate embellishment. Instead of amplifying flavors with butter, cream or slow-simmered stocks and sauces, top-flight French kitchens in 2023 are more likely to turn to global seasonings and cooking techniques when creating dishes. One place to sample modern French restaurant cookery is

The Bocuse Restaurant at the Culinary Institute of America. Located a relatively easy drive away in Hyde Park, New York, The Bocuse is one of the Institute’s teaching restaurants in which advanced students polish their cooking and serving skills under the guidance of Institute instructors.

Re-imagined from the Institute’s more classically inclined Escoffier Restaurant, the Bocuse Restaurant opened in 2013 as a teaching venue using the latest in culinary technology. It’s mission then and now is to reflect what the “French restaurant” of the future is likely to be.

The Bocuse Restaurant welcomes the general public for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Currently closed for summer break, it will resume taking reservations for service on Sept. 6.

More information can be found at their website, bocuserestaurant.com.

Side Dishes

• The summer edition of Dine Out Boston is underway, running Aug. 6 through 19, with more than 125 restau- rants in Greater Boston part of the celebration.

Now in its 23rd year, Dine Out Boston offers visitors to the Hub the opportunity to experience that city’s vibrant culinary scene. Participating restaurants are offering prix fixe menus for lunch and dinner at one of three price points: lunch for $22, $27 or $32 and dinner for $36, $41 or $46. Restaurants have the option of listing as many courses they like as part of each of their prix fixe offerings. A comprehensive listing of menus and reservations links is available at DineOutBoston.com. In addition, a number of hotels are offering overnight getaway packages.

Dine Out is presented by Meet Boston, the city’s convention and visitors bureau, and the Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism. Meet Boston answers at 617-5364100.

• The Federal Restaurant & Bar in Agawam has been honored by Wine Spectator magazine with one of that publication’s Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards. The Awards, which are presented annually, recognize those establishments that are dedicated to wine and wine-loving diners. First presented in 1981, the award program is designed to recognize those restaurants whose wine lists offering interesting selections appropriate to the cuisine the operation serves. In 2023 more than 3,500 restaurants from around the world are being honored with a Restaurant Award designation.

In referring to the award, Alastair Cowleson, The Federal’s Wine and Beverage Director, describes the designation as both humbling and a reassurance that the wine program at the Federal is headed in the right direction.

The Federal, which specializes in New American cuisine, serves dinner Wednesday through Saturday evenings. The restaurant answers at 413-789-1267.

• Throughout August, the Springfield-based Association of Black Business and Professionals is sponsoring Dine Black 2023, a showcase of black-owned food businesses in Greater Springfield. Those establishments signed up for the event are offering weekly specials during Dine Black as an incentive for guests to come out and experience what black food entrepreneurs have to offer.

A partial listing of participating restaurants and food businesses includes Level 5 Restaurant, White Lion Brewing, The Artist Cafe and Wings & Waffles.

Go to facebook.com/ blackprofessionalassoc for more information on Dine Black 2003.

• On Aug. 11, the Three Rivers Chamber of Commerce will once again be hosting a Food Trucks, Farmers and Artisans Market. The event, which will be held in