EDUCATE VOL
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QUICK BITES FOR YOUR BRAIN
Before we feast upon this issue, here’s a little something to whet your appetite: from our favorite new books to dining and drinking trends getting the most buzz. – compiled by Audarshia Townsend
ON OUR RADAR The new Hampton Social outpost in Naples, Fla., takes guac up a few notches. It’s made to order, of course, but the best part about it is that guests may have it crowned with a mound of lobster. Here’s the recipe.
THE HAMPTON SOCIAL GUACAMOLE INGREDIENTS: 3/4 cup
Avocado hummus
1/4 tsp
Black & white seeds
2 tbsp
Fresh corn
1 1/2 Tbsp
Tortilla chips
1 1/2 cup
Queso fresco
4 oz
Roasted tomato salsa
1 tbsp
Chopped cilantro
Lobster
(Optional)
PREPARATION: Scoop avocado hummus into a small cup. Garnish avocado with fresh corn, queso fresco, cilantro and seeds. Top avocado hummus with fresh lobster. You want every bite to have some of each garnish. Place chips alongside the serving dish of your choosing. Place ramekin of salsa on opposite side of guacamole.
SERVINGS: 2 2 | RESTAURANT INC
TASTY (SOUND) BITES WHAT DOES LATIN COMFORT FOOD MEAN TO YOU?
TOP 5 LATIN PLAYLIST BY THE STAFF AT SOKNO TACO CANTINA (KNOXVILLE, TN)
DEMETRIO “CHEF D” MARQUEZ
KATSUJI TANABE
Divisional Corporate Chef Reinhart Foodservice | New Orleans
“One may call it a goulash, but we call it a guiso. My grandfather would mix stew chunk meat with some chili powder and some tomato sauce. He’d fry elbow macaroni in lard to brown them, then finish it. I hate to call it Hamburger Helper, but it was more of a guisada. It was comfort food that was go-to food, and you could add some fresh green chiles to it, some fresh onions. When you get a bowl of that and add some sauce to it, it was just the Latin version of ramen noodles. We’d use scraps of pork (or other leftover meat) and it was unbelievable. I’ve done it with deer because, of course, I’m a hunter. It’s our version of chicken and dumplings. With fresh tortillas, it was so perfect. It’s part of my lineage. My dad passed it on to me, and now when I’m cooking the guiso, my sons know what time it is. It’s off the rails, it’s an off-the-beaten-path dish. It’s the type of dish you wouldn’t find at a commercial Mexican restaurant.”
Executive Chef of Barrio Chicago “Comfort food for a chef is extremely personal and important, and I’ll bet if you ask any chef what their comfort food is it will probably be their last meal request as well. Comfort food is the perfect example of what ‘cooking with love’ means to me. My go-to food every time I need that feeling is always the same dish, enchiladas suizas. Either my mother (who is Mexican) or wife likes to cook this dish for me, and it never has to be perfect; that’s part of the charm. The dish is a creamy, green tomatillo salsa, pulled chicken and melted cheese. I am hoping my daughters will keep the Tanabe tradition and choose the same comfort dish when they get older.”
1. “Canciones de Mariachi” by Los Lobos 2. “Cuban Pete” (from “The Mask”) 3. “El Baño” by Enrique Iglesias featuring Bad Bunny 4. ”La Bamba” by Ritchie Valens 5. “Queso Blanco” by Quaker City Night Hawks
FOR YOUR NIGHTSTAND SPRING 2019 | 3
LETTER FROM REINHART
A NEW LOOK — JUST IN TIME FOR SPRING! Spring signifies a fresh start. And this season, we’ve taken that
sentiment to heart at Restaurant Inc. by giving the magazine a beautiful new makeover. In this issue—which spotlights Latin American and Mexican cuisines—you’ll see a complete overhaul, beginning with the departments. Business/Operations/Tech focuses on the tools you’ll need to operate behind the scenes. This issue’s highlights include new column “One Quick Question”—servings of advice from some of the country’s top hospitality experts. Product Reviews highlights Reinhart Foodservice’s corporate chefs and their recommendations on how to best use fresh produce, equipment and more. This time around, get ready for creative takes on avocados, cactus, Mexican cheese, limes and tortillas. Additional new departments include Behind the Bar, Community, From the Kitchen and Eating Healthy, Living Well. Recipes, of course, are still at the center of each issue, and now you’ll also find them throughout the departments. Finally, we’re particularly excited about this issue’s theme of Latin American and Mexican cuisines. They’re popular. They’re vibrant. And they offer endless opportunities to showcase spring’s most bountiful produce. You’ll find plenty of inspiration throughout the pages, whether you’re looking to spice up your menu or tweak a recipe here or there. Here’s to a prosperous spring! Audarshia Townsend MANAGING EDITOR, RESTAURANT, INC.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert MANAGING EDITOR Audarshia Townsend ART DIRECTION Jenn Bushman DESIGNERS Drew Frigo, Lauren Jonson, Morgan Gilmore PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Coha FOOD STYLIST Susan Barrientos-Hevey Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or rfsmarketing@ rfsdelivers.com
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! W NE
MISO UMAMI
CITRUS FRESH
WILD MUSHROOM EARTH
ROAST UMAMI
DEEP SMOKE
TRY IT IN: Beef Empanadas Tamales Fish Tacos
TRY IT IN: Guacamole & Salsas Citrus Tres Leche Cake Margaritas
TRY IT IN: Enchiladas Fajitas Lomo Saltado
TRY IT IN: Tortilla Soup Carne Adobo Arroz con Pollo
TRY IT IN: Chicken Quesadillas Rice and Beans Chile Rellenos
NEW Knorr® Intense Flavors has arrived! Unilever Food Solutions is proud to introduce a new range of liquid seasonings that help chefs add bold dimensions of flavor to their dishes with ease.
To learn more visit ufs.com/IntenseFlavorsRi
©Unilever Food Solutions. Knorr is a registered trademark of the Unilever Group of Companies. UC 02/19
CREATIVE CONTRIBUTORS
JENN BUSHMAN Jenn is a Creative Services Manager at Reinhart Foodservice heading up brand and creative leadership and is based in Chicago, IL. She possesses a combination of conceptual and strategic strength and technical proficiency. Jenn always knew she wanted to pursue a creative career. Though she spends most of her days on the computer, she is passionate about finding ways to work with her hands. Art has always been her first love and she continues to oil paint in her free time.
DREW FRIGO A well-rounded creative professional, Drew brings bold ideas to the table as the Senior Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice. Thinking through drawing, he has very few limits or rules when he draws, which attributes to his knack for generating fresh ideas. With that said, his photographic eye, technical savviness, and being surrounded by a great team help bring these ideas to life. Orange juice, family, fat biking, creating art, and music are huge motivators.
MORGAN GILMORE Morgan is a Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice in Rosemont. Ill.. She has a desire to work hard and make what she designs relevant. She sees a blank page as a challenge. When Morgan is not in front of the computer, she's either practicing calligraphy, reading a book or at the gym.
LAUREN JONSON Lauren is an avid baker who does graphic design, in that order. She has a passion for creativity, and typically says yes to any challenge – in and out of the kitchen. Designing for over 12 years, she has developed multiple magazine concepts and marketing campaigns all while perfecting her grandmother’s bourbon pecan pie. Lauren’s life is a flavorful collaboration of art and raising her two beautiful children.
DAN COHA Dan Coha is a mainstay in Chicago food photography. He has worked with many advertising and promotional agencies, and packaging and design firms, as well as direct corporate clients over the years. His studio is located in Chicago’s River West neighborhood. COHAPHOTO.COM
SUSAN BARRIENTOS-HEVEY Susan is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef who began her career in New York’s Mercer Kitchen, and followed Jean Georges to Minneapolis’s Chambers Kitchen. Always aspiring to make food beautiful, Susan's career in the food styling world has allowed her to work on many brand names. She has contributed to projects for General Mills, Target, Bush’s Beans, Walmart, and continues with Reinhart's Restaurant Inc and The Dish. SUSANBARRIENTOSFOOD.COM
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CONTRIBUTORS | WRITERS
AUDARSHIA TOWNSEND A Chicago-based author, seasoned food and cocktail culture writer and regular contributor to Chicago’s top-rated WGN-TV’s “WGN Morning News,” Audarshia Townsend is Restaurant Inc.’s managing editor. Previously, her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Tribune Magazine, Essence, Los Angeles Times, Playboy.com, World’s 50 Best Bars and Anthony Bourdain’s Exploring Parts Unknown. She’s also discussed food and drink trends on several local television and radio shows, was a featured expert on The Travel Channel, and served as a judge three years in a row for the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She enjoys discovering new dining and drinking trends in her hometown and beyond.
MINDY S. KOLOF The more complex the subject matter, the better Mindy likes to break it down and communicate it with passion. Twenty+ years of experience translates to writing about every type of culinary trend, cutting-edge product and visionary foodservice leader. As principal of her own boutique public relations firm, she’s crafted numerous top-notch communications programs. Her favorite mashup: the intersection of health, wellness and culinary. Mindy graduated from University of Illinois, Champaign, with a bachelor’s in Journalism.
ARI BENDERSKY Ari Bendersky is a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits and travel. The former founding editor of Eater Chicago, Ari has been writing for 20+ years and his work has appeared in the New York Times, WSJ magazine, Associated Press, Men's Journal, Wine Enthusiast, Departures, RollingStone.com, Crain's Chicago Business, Liquor.com and many more publications. A lover of discovering new food and cultures, Ari travels whenever possible, recently visiting Italy, Finland, Argentina, Portugal and Mexico. He lives in Chicago with his husband and their super cute scruffy dog, Eddie (the girl!).
ERICA BETHE LEVIN Erica Bethe Levin is a food writer, entrepreneur and hospitality consultant. At 24, she founded Chicago's largest online magazine for women, CheekyChicago. She has since been featured in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times, Crain's Chicago Business and on CNN, ABC, NBC, FOX and WGN covering all things lifestyle. She also launched the Chicago market for Reserve, a table management system backed by the cofounder of Uber, and is currently the director of sales for Coyle Hospitality.
VICTOR OZOLS Victor Ozols is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and editorial consultant specializing in food, spirits, travel, and design. His work has appeared in Serious Eats, BlackBook, Esquire, and Modern Luxury Interiors, among other publications. When he’s not scouring New York for the best barbecue and craft beers, he’s busy at home with his wife and two sons.
BRIANA RUPEL Briana Rupel is a freelance writer and bartender, with more than 15 years of well-rounded experience in the food and beverage industry. She has created craft cocktails for a Four Diamond hotel and designed and led an interactive cocktail seminar. When off the clock, she prefers a hoppy local tap at her neighborhood dive. Bri currently resides in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where she continuously finds creative inspiration in the lush woods and rocky beaches bordering Lake Superior.
M. JANE JOHNSON Johnson is never happier than when tracking down a great story that will inspire, inform and ring true to restaurant-industry readers. Her career is so last century—well, at least that’s when it started, and it continues to be a source of endless delight, especially since the research (eating in restaurants and talking to brilliantly cool people) is deliciously satisfying. Off the clock, Johnson actually loves to cook though she spends an inordinate amount of time trying to find Chinese cumin lamb on Chicago-area menus. She counts a well-made gin and tonic among her best and most steadfast friends.
SPRING 2019 | 7
Vol 07, Issue 02
IN THIS ISSUE
02–03 Quick Bites 04 Letter from Reinhart 06–07 Contributors 12 One Quick Question 14 Tech Talk: Mr. Robot is in the house 16 When Safety is Key 18 Private Dining No Longer Requires a Private Room 20 Staying Straight On The Career Path 22 One Chicago School Offers Culinary Courses Entirely in Spanish 24 Labor Pains: Finding Your Next Great Hire 27 Product Reviews: Tortillas 30 Product Reviews: Avocados 32 Product Reviews: Cactus 36 Product Reviews: Cheese 39 What Exactly Is ‘Mexican Food?’ 42 Going Gourmet
44 A Slow-Cooked Tradition Takes Centerstage 46 It’s in the Sauce
49 Mexican Flavor Faves Meet American Classics 51 The Not-So-Basic Churro 52 Oh, Those Tacos In The Ozarks! 54–97 FROM THE KITCHEN Feed the Appetite for Change! With Fresh, Latin Flavors 98 Pour it On 100 Sotol Is The Mexican Spirit You Likely Haven’t Heard Of—Yet
PG 60
47 It’s Time To Bug Out
Mexican Cuisine’s Tantalizing New Horizons with CHEF CHRISTOPHER
104 Talking Tequila 106 Sublime Sips 108 DIY Bitters For Your Bar 110 Crystal Clear
114 Lighten Up 116 Shining A Light On Extraordinary Female Chefs 118 Ya’ll Come Back 120 The Magic of Mexico City’s Legendary Mayoras 125 Ad Index 126–BC Eating Healthy, Living Well
PG 24
112 Wines Sprouting From South Of The Border
LABOR PAINS: Finding Your Next Great Hire SPRING 2019 | 9
Reimagine the Burger with
The Blend Why thE Blend is right for today! BETTER FLAVOR: Take advantage of the umami in mushrooms to amplify the flavor of meat. You’ll get some of the best tasting burgers ever.
BETTER FOR GUESTS: By adding at least 25% chopped mushrooms to meat dishes, you can reduce calories, fat, saturated fat, cholesterol and sodium.²
BETTER FOR THE PLANET: New research shows mushrooms are one of the most sustainably produced foods grown in the U.S.¹ The Blend makes menus more sustainable and saves on natural resources and environmental footprint.
A TRUE POWER BURGER: The Blend adds more nutrients to the plate like vitamin D, potassium, B-vitamins, selenium and antioxidants – making it one of the only burgers with so many functional properties.
THE BLEND - NOT JUST FOR BURGERS: Use this culinary technique and blend finely chopped mushrooms into your tacos, meatloaf, lasagna, pasta sauce, meatballs and more, to make iconic dishes more nutritious and delicious.
Go to Pg 124 for dea tils on the Ble nd Project ed Burger ™& can Join how you the Jam Beard F es oundat ion & chef co lleague s in creatin g the be st blended burger!
It’s a point of difference that makes a difference. * Burger photos courtesy of Hyde Park Steakhouse Prime Steakhouse (Beachwood, OH; Pittsburgh, PA; Birmingham, MI) 1. The Mushroom Sustainability Story: Water, Energy, and Climate Environmental Metrics , SureHarvest March 2017. 2. Myrdal Miller, A., Mills, K., Wong, T., Drescher, G., Lee, S.M., Sirimuangmoon, C., Schaefer, S., Langstaff, S., Minor, B. and Guinard, J.-X. (2014), Flavor-Enhancing Properties of Mushrooms in Meat-Based Dishes. Journal of Food Science, 79: S1795–S1804. doi: 10.1111/1750-3841.12549
For more information about The Blend, as well as great recipes visit Blenditarian.com. While you’re there, take the pledge to do better - for your customers, your bottom line and the planet.
#TheBlend at Burgh’ers
Burgh’ers is a gourmet burger restaurant with two locations in Pennsylvania — Harmony and Pittsburgh. Chef Fiore Moletz, founder of the award-winning Burgh’ers and Della Terra Italian Bistro, is proud to offer sustainably-sourced burgers, that are also healthy. Burgh’ers is a winner and 3-time participant in the annual James Beard Foundation’s Blended Burger Project™.
Why they menu #TheBlend 1. ADVANCE PREP EASES OPERATIONS
3. BUILDING THE BUZZ Burgh’ers launched the blended burger as a special after it was named a finalist in the Blended Burger Project™. They capitalized on the buzz and news spread via word of mouth. It became a permanent menu item called #theblend.
To prep the blended burgers, one of the line cooks cleans and dices the mushrooms, then marinates them for 24 hours in salt, thyme and garlic, before roasting to enhance their flavor.
4. #THEBLEND AS MARKETING TOOL
2. MAXIMIZING MARGINS With beef prices cyclical, The Blend is a natural solution to lower food costs and improve margins.
The hashtag serves as an immediate entry into Instagram and Snapchat. Customers see the hashtag and it’s a trigger to start taking and tagging photos. Moletz has reported that #theblend hashtag has built business at his two locations.
“Our guests are very health conscious, sustainability-minded and active. The blended patty —marketed as #theblend on the menu — now generates 10%-15% of weekly revenue.” - Chef Fiore Moletz
For more information about The Blend, as well as great recipes visit Blenditarian.com. While you’re there, take the pledge to do better - for your customers, your bottom line and the planet. *Originally Featured in November 2017 Issue of Restaurant Business Magazine, 50 Great Ideas
?
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
One Quick Question Servings of advice from some of the country’s top hospitality experts by M. Jane Johnson
This is a tough, competitive and demanding industry, so we asked a few pros to walk us through the hard part and get to success.
PARNELL DELCHAM
JASON BAZDARICH
co-founder, Ways & Means Oyster House in Huntington Beach, Calif. and Tigard, Ore.
chef/owner Speedy Romeo and Oxomoco, New York City
(with additional locations set to open in 2019) “One of the hardest parts of succeeding in the restaurant industry is that yesterday means nothing. My success has been more about now than yesterday. When I open a new restaurant, no one cares about what I did before. They care only about the success of the current restaurant. If a previous location is a success, that doesn’t mean the new one will be too, but it adds to our guests’ high expectations. This pressure is what motivates me to stay nimble and creative with every new project.”
12 | RESTAURANT INC
“The hardest part of being in this industry? Two words: human resources. Simply put, that’s it. The industry has changed a lot since I started and I feel like a bit the old man who says, ‘when I was in school I walked 10 miles there and back.’ Now it’s hard to fill spots. It’s competitive and not everyone wants to work their way up to a position. So we work hard to motivate the team and make them feel good about the work they do and the part they play in the strength of our brands and their success.”
WILLIAM REYNOLDS chef/owner New Buffalo Bill’s, New Buffalo, Mich. and former provost of City Colleges of Chicago’s Washburne Culinary Institute “I started to say finding help is the biggest challenge, but it’s really more than that. It’s keeping people in their positions, interested in their work and on board with what we’re doing. There are great opportunities here to cross train and learn other functions, but convincing some workers to stick around and make that commitment is hard. They don’t see it as building a career. It’s as much about them not having a career plan or goals. I try to step in, support and help them see how this can work for them. When that works, it’s a great thing. n
SPRING 2019 | 13
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
Tech Talk Mr. Robot is in the house by Mindy S Kolof
“Automation is key to unlocking the value of humans. They will work together not against one another. Human touch cannot be replaced.” − Bear Robotics founder John Ha
14 | RESTAURANT INC
They’re here, with lively names likes Sally, Penny, Flippy and Suzomo. They’re ready to roll up their iron sleeves and help flip burgers, compose sushi rolls, make salads, create bowls, bus tables—and that’s just for starters. All promise to make life easier for workers, more efficient for owners and less costly for customers, and none have any aspirations of replacing humans. There’s no stopping progress, but with robots this helpful, why would you want to? Bear Robotics’ Penny has an enviable skill set, including autonomously running food and pre-bussing dishes, increasing sales by more than 20 percent wherever she works by attracting new customers and raising tips by 18 percent with improved service quality. If that’s not enough, consider that she also boosts employee morale by freeing workers from repetitive tasks and allowing them to take on more creative functions. “This will shift the daily work of millions of foodservice people and improve the overall culture of an industry that hasn’t changed for decades,” promises Juan Higueros, chief operating officer for Bear Robotics. “With increased pressure on wages and fewer people looking for work, technological innovations are needed to keep the industry moving forward.” His plans for Penny in 2019 aim to do that by testing her out not just in restaurants, but airport eateries, hotels, casinos, corporate cafes, university dining and nursing homes. Chowbotic’s salad-making Sally, the smallest robot of its kind on the market, fitting neatly into a 3x3-foot space, also provides operators and customers options unimaginable a decade ago. Offering more than 1,000 custom, healthy meal choices that can be made in less than a minute, complete with nutritionals, Sally expanded her capabilities significantly in 2018. Led by a deeply creative team, including Chief Culinary Officer Charlie Ayers, “the chef who fed Google,” Sally added yogurt parfaits, fruit bowls and grain bowls to her repertoire, and poke and acai bowls are in the works. Her compact footprint
say hello to Sally!
also grew: As an after-hours extension of the Healthy Food Café in Indianapolis; as a workplace dining option offering through Compass Group; as a boon to busy travelers at Buffalo Niagara International Airport looking to bring a healthy meal on board; and as a safer alternative to a salad bar at the Choo Choo Café in Tennessee’s Children’s Hospital at Erlanger, reducing the risk of foodborne illness among the highrisk population. At Chicago’s Revival Food Hall, TOMI sushi bar co-owner Trisha Bun also presses a robot into service to offer customers a premium experience at reasonable prices. Using Suzomo, which churns out 350 pieces of sushi per minute, means “I can use high quality ingredients like a Michelin-starred chef would use,” but starting at $6.50 per roll. Customers are fascinated with the robot, she reports, often coming into the kitchen to see it up close. What they often discover is the art of sushi depends not on the process, but the person behind the preparation. As every robot knows, there’s no substitute for the human touch. n
SPRING 2019 | 15
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
When Safety is ey Robert Mitera, cyber security advisor and infrastructure program manager for Reinhart Foodservice, offers invaluable tips on how operators can keep their customers and employees safe. by Audarshia Townsend
Twenty-five years in information technology—including 10 years specializing in information security— certainly qualifies Robert Mitera as an expert in his field. Before he came to Reinhart Foodservice, he worked for a major U.S.-based airline with 6,000 flights a day in 96 countries. While he really enjoys making people feel safe, he takes his job very serious.
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It’s important that he stays on top of current events and how they affect foodservice. Most recently, that’s ranged from disruption in the food supply with the Romaine lettuce recall to cyberattacks at major restaurant chains to mass shootings at dining establishments. Here, he offers vital advice operators will find useful.
Follow “good hygiene” for computer safety. “Create a solid password, and [never] reuse a password. Be wise in clicking links [on the Internet]. Also, make sure you’re not providing too much information on the Internet, such as on social media where someone can either social engineer or guess your password. Make sure you aren’t using dictionary words in your password. Follow ‘good hygiene’ as far as computer infrastructure. Honestly, if you do that, you’re going to be a lot better off than many companies.”
Protect yourself when using third-party services for delivery, etc.
Precautions operators can take to prevent violence at their establishments.
“When using these types of services, what I would suggest is that you make sure that if they’re accessing your network that you segment it off, so that the only things they can see are things appropriate for that third party that you’re working with. For example, if I’m dealing with a meat vendor or a produce vendor, the only thing they can see is what they’re delivering to me and my restaurant. They can see the orders, but they cannot see financials or they cannot see when they got paid. They cannot reach other systems, so it’s segmented off so they can only see what’s appropriate for them. That’s critical. There should be some sort of multi-factor authentication involved as well. The likelihood of a hacker getting through to you is least likely when you have multi-factor authentication with your computers.”
“I’m a really big fan of the U.S. Department of Homeland Security website because they have a lot of great educational templates you can apply to your business. It would be as simple as you training all your employees and making sure that if something happens, this is what you’re going to do. Step one, step two, step three. At a former company where I worked, we used to start meetings with an emergency procedure. At the beginning of the meeting, you’d set up who’s going to take care of different roles. If there’s an active shooter, it’s run, hide and fight. First thing: You’re going to run to the nearest exit to try to get out of there. Second: You’re going to hide if you can. If you can’t run or hide, and the shooter is there, you’re going to fight. That’s last. What’s interesting is that by talking through that, people will know what to do. It will make the process smoother and less chaotic. You want to have an organized staff at any point and time. The reality of today is that we need to be prepared for some of these incidents.” n
SPRING 2019 | 17
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
Private Dining No Longer Requires a Private Room Unconventional events can bring in extra profits for your restaurant by Erica Bethe Levin
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Corporate events. Wine tastings. Holiday parties. Traditional private dining has always been a source of supplemental revenue for restaurants. But what about operations without a private dining room, or owners looking to make an extra buck on off days and times? Atypical restaurant events like baby showers or cooking classes all impact restaurants’ bottom lines and don’t require build-outs.
Brindille, an intimate, 50-seat restaurant in Chicago, is only open for dinner, yet the kitchen staff preps all day and the rent still needs to be paid. So, the owners decided to launch a “holiday tea” series on Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day weekends, and the weekends between Thanksgiving and Christmas. For $65, guests enjoy multiple courses of savories and sweets paired with exotic teas. Additional beverages cost extra and comprise a good portion of the check. In 2018, Brindille’s tea series grew 25 percent over the year before. “For our high teas and private dining in general, margins are better, we conform our menus for the guests, costs for food and wine are controlled, and it’s a good way to move inventory,” says Michael Nahabedian, co-owner of Brindille. Guests have so thoroughly enjoyed their tea experiences that they now request tea-style parties for their own private events (birthday parties, engagements, etc.). Nahabedian’s cousin, Carrie Nahabedian, co-owner and James Beard Award-winning chef, plans to host even more of these teas—non-holiday related—with local female business owners throughout the year. This is in addition to the cooking classes she hosts during daytime hours prior to dinner service.
“Our cooking classes are highly personal and enjoyable,” says Carrie Nahabedian. “They are customized, relaxed and a great experience in a professional kitchen.” Tickets are $250 each and include the cooking class and a threecourse luncheon paired with wine. A 50-seat restaurant now has the potential to bring in an extra $12,500 in revenue—all before dinner service begins. “Clients see Brindille as the jewel that it is; very detailed in design and perfect for private events for two to 50 people,” continues Nahabedian. “Because we host a monthly cooking class and wine luncheon, plus our popular ‘French Afternoon Teas,’ private events have been a big force in our success. Guests know we’re not just a space for dinner.” Michael and Carrie Nahabedian have successfully added 15 percent to their bottom line through private events each year. In the restaurant business, that’s gold. See more on how to get the most out of private dining at rfsdelivers.com/restaurant-inc. n
SPRING 2019 | 19
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
STAYING
STRAIGHT ON THE CAREER PATH
Tips on how to avoid self-sabotage in the culinary industry by M. Jane Johnson
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Anyone who has ever been fired, demoted, demoralized or smacked down in their job knows well the blistering sting of rejection, the indignity and, yes, the injustice of it all. These pink slips, after all, are handed out by bosses who don’t recognize talent or maybe just don’t like you or feel threatened by your smarts and business style, right?
Not so much, as it happens. According to Carter Cast, a venture capitalist, professor at Northwestern University’s Kellogg School of Management and author of “The Right and Wrong Stuff: How Brilliant Careers are Made,” many, if not most, of the major stumbles are self-inflicted and entirely preventable. “Derailing careers is something we do to ourselves,” he says, adding that arrogance, hubris, inability to listen, disorganization and lack of self-awareness are among the common behavioral blind spots. Cast knows firsthand what it looks and feels like. Early in his career, while at Pepsi, his boss pretty much told him to go find another job. He did, at another division within the company, so he could sidestep the blot of being fired. Instead of passing the blame to his boss and co-workers, Cast looked inward and sought to understand how he contributed to his poor standing. In a recent interview, Cast discussed the process of selfreflection and forward career momentum, offering pointers that apply at pretty much any stage. Most people are a lot less self-aware than they think. For internal self-awareness, try to figure out motives and drivers of behaviors. Externally, figure out how you come across to others; it may not be as agreeable as you think. Have a beginner’s mindset. Be in a constant state of beta and have a learning orientation. Stay focused on areas you need to improve. Learning agility is important, especially as you progress through your career. Work on discovery skills. Test and test and test some more in your job. Test new theories. See how customers interact with the food, the servers, to being in your restaurant and then ask yourself how to make the experience better. Network with smart people who are strong where you’re weak. If they don’t exist or aren’t available to you inside the company, look outside for mentors. Be reflective and self-critical. Ask your bosses and people with whom you work, “Tell me what didn’t work.” Be prepared for criticism, and don’t shut down when you hear it. It’s part of improvement.
Author of “The Right—and Wrong— Stuff: How Brilliant Careers Are Made and Unmade”
Determine the key activities within your organization that create customer value and align your strengths with them. Develop an ability to sublimate your ego and be openminded to learning the truth. Ask yourself if you are honestly open to new ideas and to improving. Treat your boss like a customer instead of an adversary. In short, says Cast, “We’re all works in progress. To unleash your ‘right stuff,’ be a persistent learner who listens carefully and is readily able to reach out to others for support and help.” n
SPRING 2019 | 21
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
One Chicago School Offers
CULINARY COURSES
Entirely in Spanish by Ximena N. Larkin
It’s been a long time coming, but Washburne Culinary & Hospitality Institute, on Chicago’s south side and one of the nation’s oldest culinary schools, now offers a certificate program entirely in Spanish. That’s a win for the country’s Latin community, which is made up of 37 million native Spanish speakers—one-third of whom have chosen hospitality as their chosen profession.
“This program was created to meet students where they are,” explains Marshall Shafkowitz, Washburne’s executive dean. The school is part of the City Colleges of Chicago, a network of community colleges throughout the city. It counts critically acclaimed chef/owner Jimmy Bannos as an alum, and partners with Hyatt Hotels, Aramark and the InterContinental Hotel for hiring purposes. But what of concerns that it might change the present-day workplace? “It is not creating a more Spanish-speaking culinary workforce,” explains Carolina Barrera Tobón, assistant professor of modern languages at DePaul University in Chicago. “This is a response to the existence of one already. These types of vocational programs are usually created through a lot of input from the industry and are a response to industry needs. It should allow workers access to jobs to which they did not previously have access.” Shafkowitz echoes this sentiment. He believes, in fact, it is something that should have been rolled out years ago. And though it is a good thing, he stresses, there are concerns with what it means to funnel Spanish speakers into a specific industry. While there are additional programs like Washburne’s being developed, there are restaurateurs who have already taken matters into their own hands. “Job applications, employee handbooks and request-off forms are written in English and Spanish,” says chef Bill Kim of Chicago’s Urban Belly restaurant. “It’s important to me that our employees feel safe and empowered in the workplace. Food is the ultimate way to help break down barriers and connect with each other.” Gabriel Alvarez, the instructor who leads the program, agrees with this statement. He says food creates a universal connection that transcends any language. He is excited about his current students, yet he hopes more will enroll and take advantage of an opportunity to grow into management roles. n
SPRING 2019 | 23
BUSINESS & OPERATIONS
labor pains Finding your next great hire
by Mindy S. Kolof
24 | RESTAURANT INC
Recruiting and retaining great employees have always been the keys to unlocking restaurant success, but challenged with a shrinking labor pool and unfavorable demographic trends, operators are anxiously seeking new answers. Joni Doolin and Michael Harms at TDn2K offer next-level insights from their latest People Report survey of 2.5 million foodservice employees nationwide.
According to Doolin and Harms, operators should focus on the following key areas of employee retention, which also correlate strongly with better performance: adjust compensation and bonus practices, invest in employees’ personal development and well-being, increase management staffing levels, and enhance recognition and reward programs. Each represents an opportunity to differentiate your operation and engage all levels of employees. Start with TDn2K’s “total rewards strategy,” a holistic approach to compensation that goes beyond the essential salary and bonus discussions. “This is an area where independent restaurant operators, with the flexibility to implement individualized rewards packages, have a distinct advantage over large chains,” says Doolin. “They can respond at a local level to what employees value most, and vary it by the demographic composition of their team.” Providing appropriate training and professional development opportunities are vital. Doolin cautions, however, to be truly impactful, training needs to focus on more than just polishing dayto-day skills, but opportunities that extend well beyond the four walls of the restaurant, such as partial tuition reimbursement or programs to earn a high school diploma.
Most notably, offer training programs specifically for your general managers, helping them develop supervisory and leadership skills. “Our research has consistently shown that engagement of the GM is key to the success of the business,” says Doolin. “Sometimes the focus is all about making life better for hourly employees, and we overlook the importance of the GM. Restaurants that offer special training for GMs have management turnover rates almost 20 percent lower than those that don’t … and it costs far more to replace a GM.” Community involvement initiatives, especially those that link back to your unique concept, have enormous power to engage and retain socially aware millennials as well as older associates. For example, King’s Seafood employees are ardent participants in annual beach cleanups on the California coast, supporting the company’s commitment to seafood sustainability. Finally, while the demographic tide might be going the wrong way, as new entrants to the workforce are on the decline in the 16-24 age category, tap into the growing pool of older talent, particularly boomers. Recruiting efforts that emphasize compensation and especially, benefits (“the primary reason boomers are working”), are most effective. The ROI is substantial, says Doolin: “Many have been in the industry for years and offer a wealth of knowledge and expertise.” n
SPRING 2019 | 25
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PRODUCT REVIEWS
tortillas
FRESH vs. PRE-MADE? by Audarshia Townsend
Demetrio Marquez—or better known as “Chef D”—fondly recalls his childhood years spending time at his paternal grandparents’ home. He’d wake up at 5:30 in the morning to the sounds of his grandmother furiously patting tortilla dough and the aroma of them grilling in the skillet. And when he’d stay at his maternal grandparents’ home, his grandmother would replace water with buttermilk in her recipe, puffing up the tortillas, making them resemble pita bread. “She couldn’t get three or four of them made without us there with a spoonful of butter ready to get at them,” reminisces Marquez, a corporate chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s New Orleans division. For those memories alone, Marquez still prefers fresh, housemade tortillas over pre-made ones, however, when it comes to practicality, restaurant operators must weigh their options realistically.
continued...
SPRING 2019 | 27
PRODUCT REVIEWS
tortillas
“For production purposes, there’s no way someone can stand there and make scratch tortillas for multi-unit or chain restaurants,” says Marquez. “That’s why [chefs] kind of lean toward pre-made tortillas that you have to finish out on a flattop. They’re almost as good, but you just cannot compare them to homemade.” He considers tortillas more than just a tasty vessel to carry ingredients. “Most Latin Americans use them as a utensil, too,” he adds. “They’ve gone a step further and [are now] doing the spinach wraps, tomato wraps, garlic, so a lot of flavored tortillas are making the scene for delis who offer them as an alternative for customers who want to cut back on the carbs. [They’re] a little bit lighter and thinner.” For Jeff Merry, executive corporate chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s Boston division, whether an operator serves fresh or pre-made tortillas depends on the restaurant model. “If I’m trying to introduce tacos as a secondary item on my menu, for instance, a mid-tier bar and grill serving chicken wings and burgers and I just wanted to add a layer to my menu, I would use an already prepared tortilla,” he says. “If I have a taqueria, however, I would want them to be as authentic as possible.” Tortillas, Merry continues, contain the simple ingredients of cornmeal, water and salt (for corn tortillas) or flour, water and lard (for flour tortillas). It’s the skill put into making them that takes them to the next level.
Grandma Rafaella’s Flour Tortillas Servings: 12 tortillas INGREDIENTS
2 cups
all-purpose flour
¾ cup
buttermilk
2 tsp
baking powder
3 tbsp
pork lard
½ tsp
salt
INSTRUCTIONS
In a bowl, add flour, salt and baking powder; mix well. Then add lard a little bit at a time, then slowly add buttermilk until dough comes together. Once it’s mixed well, place dough on a dusted floured surface and knead until it forms a nice dough ball. Allow it to rest for two minutes, then divide into 1 ounce dough balls. Preheat a large comal or griddle to medium-high. Next, on a floured surface, add the balls and with a floured rolling pin, roll out flat. Add to griddle for 1 minute, then flip to other side to finish. Repeat until all dough balls are grilled. Barbacoa Beef Cheeks Street Tacos Servings: 12 (2 tacos per serving) INGREDIENTS
Cachete de Res Barbacoa
“One of the things I like about them is how much fun you can have adding your own twists,” he adds. “I’ve seen recipes where they’re using wine infused in the water to not only give it color, but to impart a different flavor.
5 lbs
beef cheeks
2 ea
Guajillo chili, dried and seeded
2 ea
pasilla chili, dried and seeded
“When it comes to recipes, it’s important to understand the basic science behind the recipe … what is the chemical reaction that’s going on to create what’s going on. But then it’s kind of cool to test the limits to see what happens when you use one liquid as opposed to another.”
3 ea
bay leaf
½ tsp
whole clove
1 tbsp
Mexican oregano
2 tbsp
cumin
While he’s a fan of house-made tortillas, Kevin Nash, chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s Eastern Pennsylvania division, says their freshness doesn’t last very long.
Chef Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez New Orleans Division
1 whole ripe avocado (cut in 1/8”) 1 ea
medium onion (quartered)
3 cups
beef broth
“With all the natural ingredients, you don’t have a long shelf life with it,” he says. “Once that two hours is up, you cannot do much with it.
Garnish: ½ white onion minced, ½ bunch fresh cilantro chopped, 2 each limes (quartered), 2 dozen corn tortillas. Add with favorite hot sauce or salsa (optional).
He’s also a realist in terms of cranking out that many during busy service.
INSTRUCTIONS
“You have to look at it like pasta. If you have four people in the kitchen and you have 200 covers, it would be difficult to make your own pasta every day. That’s along the same line with tortillas.”
28 | RESTAURANT INC
In slow cooker, on med-high, add all ingredients, and let them cook for 7 hours to 8 hours or until meat shreds tender. Warm corn tortillas, then add shredded barbacoa. Top with onions, cilantro and avocado; squeeze lime juice on top.
product reviews
Basic Flour Tortillas
Blue Corn Tortillas
Servings: 8
Servings: 6
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup
2 ½ tsp baking powder
¾ or 1 cup warm water (or buttermilk)
1 tsp
salt
INSTRUCTIONS
½ cup
lard/bacon fat
INSTRUCTIONS
Stir ingredients with optional flavorings below. Knead by hand until ingredients come together in a ball (Note: You may need to add a touch more water if dough is too dry). Set aside to rest for 30 minutes to 45 minutes, covering tightly with plastic wrap.
flour with blue corn flour
Add blue corn flour to flour mixture and mix by hand, streaming in water (or buttermilk) as needed until mixture forms into a ball. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes to 45 minutes, covering tightly with plastic wrap. To form tortillas, cut off 2-inch pieces and roll into balls; pressing and cooking, same as to the basic flour tortilla recipe. n
To form tortillas, cut off 2-inch pieces and roll into balls. To press, take wax paper, or plastic wrap, place ball in center, top with another piece of wax paper, place in tortilla press (or use a rolling pin), close and press until flat. Repeat 2 to 3 times for flatter tortillas. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat (you can use a non-stick pan or on the flat top as well), and cook tortillas until they begin to bubble slightly, about 2 minutes on each side.
Chef Jeffrey Merry Boston Division
SPRING 2019 | 29
avocados
Emerald Gem
THE
OF LATIN AMERICA
Fresh, frozen or refrigerated pulp, avocados are the key ingredient on menus across dayparts. by Audarshia Townsend
Long before avocado toast dominated brunch menus and guacamole prepared tableside impressed fussy food enthusiasts, the green-ish, pear-shaped fruit was a staple on Latin American and Mexican menus. According to the Dairy Council of California, avocados are said to contain quite a bit of potassium, dietary fiber and fats, a.k.a. the “good fats,” shown to lower bad cholesterol. While that’s certainly beneficial, most diners order it because it simply tastes good. For chefs, particularly those specializing in Latin and Mexican fare, the avocado is also a necessary ingredient. The seasonal fruit, however, can be temperamental when it’s offpeak. But there are now ways to get around that issue with fresh avocado alternatives. For some chefs, the secret weapons are frozen and/or refrigerated pulp avocados. “For consistency factor, or for the off seasons or when the prices really go high, frozen avocados and avocado purees are a great substitute,” says Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez, who works as a corporate chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s New Orleans division. “Eighty percent of Latin restaurants switch to them and don’t have any problems. … They’ve become one of the main fruits for salads, burgers or Tex-Mex [cuisine].”
30 | RESTAURANT INC
In original recipes he’s created such as a guacamole and blue crabmeat tostada salad as well as a chorizo and cactus taco, Marquez easily swaps in frozen avocado. For Chef Jeff Merry, avocado pulp comes in handy when he wants to add a quick twist to guacamole. “Take, for example, the pulp and add sour cream, more diced tomatoes and roasted peppers,” explains Merry, who serves as corporate executive chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s Boston division. “It would be the foundation or building block for guacamole. It’s easy to work with. “I also like mixing it with mayonnaise and doing an avocado aioli for a Southwestern grilled chicken sandwich. I put pepper jack cheese on it and use that avocado pulp with
mayonnaise and sour cream to thin it down a little bit.” He advises operators to use frozen avocados when the fruit is sparsely featured on the menu. “Let’s say I need it as an ingredient for a BLAT (bacon, lettuce, avocado, tomato) sandwich, and it requires sliced avocados on it,” he says. “It’s one of 50 sandwiches on my menu, and maybe I need avocado for one other thing like an Aztec grilled chicken salad. I would only pull out what I needed, and I wouldn’t have to worry about the perishability of a fresh avocado.” Merry also believes using fresh avocado alternatives is good business practice. “Unless I am taking avocados off my menu when they’re $70 a case vs. $30 a case or I’m going to upcharge my customers every time
product reviews
Guacamole & Blue Crabmeat Tostada Salad Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
4 ea
6-inch corn tortillas
8 oz
vegetable oil
2
ripe avocados halves
Tostadas: In a medium–high sauce pan, add oil. Add one tortilla at a time, cook for one minute on each side. With tongs, take out and place on paper towels.
½
Roma tomato, diced
1/8
red onion, diced
½
fresh garlic clove, minced
1
lime, juiced
½ bunch fresh cilantro 8 oz
lump blue crabmeat
½ tsp
Creole mustard
1 tbsp
mayonnaise
¼ tsp
chipotle chile in adobo sauce
½ oz
shredded lettuce
¼ oz
Cotija cheese
4 oz
red wine vinegar
½ oz
marinated red onions (make recipe overnight)*
they order guacamole or avocados, I think you’ve got to look for a balance,” he says. “If I am a mid-tier bar and grill, I can’t charge exorbitant amounts of money for things that have avocados in them because it doesn’t fit my customer base.”
*Marinated red onions: In a bowl, add slivered red onions, then add red wine vinegar, oregano and one ounce sliced garlic clove. Allow it to set overnight to marinate flavors and color. Guacamole: In a bowl, add avocados, tomatoes, diced red onions, garlic, juice of lime and ¼ bunch of cilantro. Then mix and chop with spoon for chunky consistency. Adjust with salt and pepper. Then set aside. Lump blue crabmeat salad: In a bowl, add mayonnaise, chipotle chile adobo; mix well. Then gently fold in lump blue crabmeat to evenly coat. Adjust with salt and pepper Finale: With tostada, add 1 ½ of guacamole, then top with lettuce and blue crabmeat salad. Finish with cotija cheese and marinated red onions.
Chef Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez New Orleans Division
Using avocado alternatives also saves on labor, says Kevin Nash, chef for Reinhart Foodservice’s Eastern Pennsylvania division. “If I was going to make an avocado soup, and I’m just looking for the flavor of the avocado and not necessarily the vibrant green, then I would go for the frozen,” explains Nash, who also uses the pulp in his duck tostada recipe. “Then that pulp is going to save you some labor. You can also produce a guacamole in a manner of minutes with just the pulp.” n
SPRING 2019 | 31
cactus
Get All Prickly Cactus is a grassy, green fruit that works in a variety of dishes by Ari Bendersky
32 | RESTAURANT INC
product reviews Cactus Salad with Spanish Chorizo Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS
4 oz cactus leaves
When looking at a cactus in a desert, you may not immediately think of chopping off an arm, slicing it up and tossing it in a sauté pan. But if you look at the prickly pear cactus, it does offer plenty to desire.
4 oz chorizo 3 oz red onion, jumbo 3 ½ oz Roma tomatoes 1 oz Canola oil 1 ½ oz pomegranate, dried
1 ea yellow corn tortillas 3 oz American cheese (white melt loaf queso blanco) 2 oz cilantro, washed and trimmed ½ oz garlic, chopped 1 ½ jalapeño pepper, fresh
INSTRUCTIONS
Clean and dice cactus. Place in boiling water, and boil for an additional 10 minutes. Place cactus in ice bath. Dice tomatoes and cheese and place in bowl. Slice red onion and sauté with chorizo until cooked. Cool. Add onion and chorizo to the bowl of diced tomatoes and queso blanco. In separate bowl, mix 1/8 cup oil with garlic, lime juice and black pepper. Toss ingredients in bowl and mix. Place salad on grilled corn tortilla and garnish with cilantro, sliced jalapeños and pomegranate seeds. Cactus Pineapple Smoothie
“If people understand [exactly] what cactus is, they’d try it more,” says Brian Funk, divisional chef for Reinhart Foodservice. “The first thing that comes to mind is that it’s prickly and tough, but it’s pretty versatile.” Funk, who has type-2 diabetes and heart issues, turned to cactus when he learned it’s high in fiber and vitamins A, C and K and that it helps lower cholesterol and plays a role in reducing blood sugar levels. He started slicing up the paddles of the prickly pear cactus, also called nopal, and blending it with pineapple, almond or coconut milk and sometimes frozen spinach and mango. Beyond healthy green smoothies, this fruit can be used in a variety of cooking methods. It has a bit of a slimy consistency like okra with a flavor similar to green beans and it cooks up like green peppers. “You can steam it, grill it, deep fry it,” Funk adds. “But for the first time, I’d slice it, sauté it and get a feel for it. See what the taste is like and pair it with different sides.” Grilled nopal with tomato, queso fresco and lime juice is a classic southern Mexican salad. You can use cactus in fresh pico de gallo, grill it to add to fajitas in lieu of green peppers, or add it to an egg scramble with chorizo and cilantro. But cactus goes beyond Mexican cooking. “It would play really well with Asian flavors like Chinese or Japanese,” says Andres Padilla, culinary director for Frontera Hospitality Group in Chicago. “Intense cooking in a wok can really bring out a unique consistency.” Padilla says its versatility can be used for everything from nopal sashimi to herbal chimichurri or simply as a meat replacement for a hearty taco filling. “It’s an ingredient that’s versatile for hot and cold cooking,” Padilla says. “That makes it fun.” n
Servings: 6 INGREDIENTS
5 oz cactus leaves 12 oz pineapple chunks, fresh 7 oz bananas
8 oz Greek yogurt, plain 1 ea lime, fresh 8 ¼ oz almond milk
Chef Brian Funk Shawano, Wisconsin Division
INSTRUCTIONS
Place all ingredients in blender. Blend on low for one minute to two minutes or until cactus, pineapple and banana are well blended. Slowly raise speed to medium for one minute, then slowly raise to high, until you see a vortex in the middle of the smoothie. Once you see vortex, blend for another minute or until creamy. Serve immediately. Cactus Fries with Prickly Pear Dip Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS
8 oz cactus leaves 4 1/3 oz all-purpose flour 1 1/3 yellow cornmeal 1/8 oz baking soda 1 ea eggs, large
1 serving prickly pear dip* 16 oz prickly pear purée 1 oz sugar beet, extra fine granulated 2 oz apple vinegar cider 1 ea lime
INSTRUCTIONS
Pour purée into skillet over high heat. Add sugar beet, apple cider and lime juice. Bring to a rolling boil, then drop temperature to a simmer. Let the liquid reduce by half, then remove from heat. Transfer to heat-proof bowl to cool for several minutes, then move to a refrigerator and chill until ready to serve. Use sharp edge of a knife to carefully stroke back and forth across surface of cactus paddles to remove all the spines. Trim paddles of all edges and carefully inspect to ensure all spines have been removed. Slice cactus paddles into strips, about a quarter inch wide. In a bowl, whisk flour, cornmeal, baking soda, baking powder and a teaspoon of salt. Whisk egg in a small bowl, then stir into flour mix. Slowly stir in chilled water and ice cubes. Dip cactus into batter, then quickly transfer to hot oil, cooking for three minutes to six minutes until golden brown and crispy. Transfer cooked fries to a plate lined with paper towels. Season right away with salt, as desired. Serve alongside chilled prickly pear dip.
SPRING 2019 | 33
Featuring
Culinary Secrets® bases
C
71
%
onsumer demand for ethnic fare is stronger than ever, as patrons crave exciting flavors and authentic dishes from around the globe.
of consumers say they have tried and like Mexican cuisine—and still consider it unique and exciting.2
In fact, 46% of consumers say they’re eating more unique types of ethnic foods today because they want to try new flavor combinations.1 Mexican cuisine remains one of the most popular cuisine types, presenting both main-stream appeal and an opportunity to increase awareness and demand for authentic regional dishes. 1,2,3
[ADVERTORIAL]
Technomic, The Ethnic Food & Beverage Consumer Trend Report, 2018.
Soup is the ideal menu item for introducing your patrons to on-trend Mexican flavors—incorporating authentic ingredients in a familiar format. Almost half of consumers say that an appealing menu description would encourage them to try an ethnic-inspired dish when dining out3, so be sure to call out the flavors and ingredients to drive trial.
Mexican ingredients continue to grow in popularity across many foodservice segments. Menu items range from regionally authentic to Mexican inspired, as creative fusion dishes introduce consumers to a variety of new flavors. Here are some of the Mexican and Tex-Mex ingredients demonstrating double-digit growth on U.S. menus.
HATCH CHILE
COTIJA CHEESE
GUAJILLO
ANCHO
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
CREMA
CILANTRO
HOMINY
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2014-2018 MENU GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
2019-2022 PROJECTED GROWTH
+97% +22%
ADOBO
+37% +18%
+59% +22%
+25% +13%
+54% +21%
+20% +12%
Datassential MenuTrends, U.S. menu penetration growth 2014-2018. Datassential Haiku, projected U.S. menu growth 2019-2022.
+54% +22%
+18% +16%
cheese Though on the surface it may appear not to offer the breadth or scope of their European or North American counterparts, Mexican cheeses are gaining popularity with chefs and consumers. With such a long history of production—since the Spanish arrived on Central America’s shores, bringing with them cows, sheep, goats and cheese-making knowledge to a population whose diet until then was dairy-free—it is surprising it has taken this long.
Cheesy
Delights From crema to Cotija, Mexican cheeses gain popularity on menus across the board by Jeffrey Ward
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Today, more than 40 varieties are produced regionally, and are unique in that they are mostly made from raw milk and barely aged. Turning up more and more on non-Latin menus, queso offers chefs and diners new taste experiences, encouraging experimentation at restaurants and at home. “These cheeses not only add excitement and flavor to restaurant menus, but do so at an affordable price,” says Lou Rice, an executive chef at the Springfield, Mo., division at Reinhart Foodservice. “I think they are often more interesting than their French, Italian or American equivalents, and give recipes a different flavor.” Mexican cheeses are versatile, yet have pronounced flavors that can take dishes in fresh directions. Chihuahua is probably the most popular Mexican cheese in America today. This soft, white cheese is like Monterey Jack, in that it works in any dish that requires something melty, such as Rice’s South of the Border Cheese Soup, a play on American beer cheese soup.
Oaxaca, considered the mozzarella of Mexican cheeses, is chewy and stringy with a rich flavor and works great in his Mexican Grilled Cheese. Cotija has a dry texture and salty flavor and is recommended in any application that would use parmesan. Looking for something a little lighter than sour cream? Crema, with a high fat content, drizzles like crème fraiche and can replace mayonnaise in salads or work as an all-purpose cheese sauce. And queso fresco, with its light, dry texture similar to a dry ricotta, works wonderfully in desserts, like Rice’s grilled pineapple parfait, or even filling a cannoli shell. With such versatility, it’s no wonder these cheeses are moving beyond their usual placements in traditional Mexican restaurants. Rice estimates he has placed Mexican cheeses on more than four dozen non-Hispanic restaurants.
product reviews Demetrio Marquez, a Reinhart Foodservice division corporate chef based in New Orleans, also sees this trend as only continuing to grow, especially in hip, urban taquerias, gastropubs and independently owned restaurants. In large chains and franchises, however, it is still a small percentage that takes advantage of these cheeses. “At $1 or more a pound, it comes down to quantity more than quality,” says Marquez. Chefs who use Mexican cheeses are very passionate about these occasionally unsung curds. “Tourists see these cheeses when traveling, so there is definitely a trend in bringing them to the forefront,” Marquez says. “Cheese is the cornerstone of any culture.”
South of the Border Cheese Soup Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
8 oz chorizo
½ tsp ground cumin
½ cup poblano pepper, diced
½ tsp dried oregano
½ cup yellow onion, diced
½ teaspoon ground red pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream
6 oz Mexican beer
½ cup Cotija cheese, grated
24 oz chicken broth
Salt and pepper to taste
16 oz Chihuahua cheese, shredded
A few dashes of your favorite hot pepper
4 oz green chilies, diced
Fried corn tortilla strips for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS
In a heavy stock bottom pot, cook chorizo until cooked thoroughly. Add onions and peppers and cook until they’re soft. Stir in flour and cook for about two minutes. Add Mexican beer and chicken stock. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. Add diced chilies and dry seasonings. Slowly add Chihuahua cheese, stirring well to incorporate. Stir in heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper and a few dashes of hot sauce. To serve, garnish with fried tortilla chips and a sprinkle of Cotija cheese. Chef Lou Rice Springfield Division
Mexican Grilled Cheese Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
8 slices jalapeño cornbread
1 oz pickled jalapeño, diced
4 oz chihuahua cheese, shredded
4 oz fire-roasted tomato salsa
4 oz Caribe cheese, sliced
1 tsp ground cumin
4 oz Oaxaca cheese, shredded
4 tbsp butter, softened
INSTRUCTIONS
Mix cumin with butter. Lay out slices of cornbread and butter top of each slice. Combine all cheeses in a bowl and mix. Turn over four slices of bread and top with equal amounts of cheese. Sprinkle diced jalapeño and fireroasted salsa on top of cheese. Place top slice of buttered bread side up on sandwich and place on pre-heated griddle. Cook on both sides until sandwich is golden brown on both sides and cheese has fully melted.
SPRING 2019 | 37
FROM THE KITCHEN
What
EXACTLY
Is ‘Mexican Food?’ South of the border meals are more than just cheese, beans and rice by Ximena N. Larkin
In the last few years, Mexican food has evolved from a cuisine most closely associated with a drive-thru and dollar menu to high-end fare with the likes of Pujol—one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants—in Mexico City. And yet, there is still a lack of understanding around the diverse nature of the fare.
SPRING 2019 | 39
What EXACTLY Is ‘Mexican Food?’
40 | RESTAURANT INC
For many chefs, a “traditional” Mexican meal might be made with ingredients indigenous to the country—no dairy. For another, it might be the quesadillas de flor de calabaza, melted cheese squeezed into a tortilla with squash blossoms, sold at Mercado de la Merced, the oldest market in Mexico City. The truth is, Mexican food, and the use of the moniker to label it as such, is as wide and varied as the term “American cuisine.” The food varies from region to region, and corn is the unifier. The grain used to make tamales, tortillas, pozole—a pork-based stew in tomato broth— has been around for more than 9,000 years. Its versatility is most predominantly on display during the holiday season. It’s particularly visible during the Day of Dead festivities, which revolve around cooking meals for departed loved ones.
LUIS ARCE MOTA, CHEF/OWNER
“What is Mexican food in the United States?” inquires Laura Rodriguez, a Mexican journalist. “People believe it to be tacos, tortas and burritos. The reality is that Mexican food is much more than that. It has a strong and rich culture that must be understood to be made with respect.”
“Anyone embarking on opening a restaurant, regardless of cuisine, upon, first and foremost, immerse themselves in the culture behind the cuisine they are planning to serve to the public,” advises Luis Arce Mota, the Mexico-born chef/owner of La Contenta and La Contenta Oeste in New York City. Mota recommends hiring a native to consult on the project. This can go a long way in demonstrating a commitment to the community, but can also help prevent costly errors such the reprinting of materials or even the closure of a business due to insensitivity. Put simply, tapping into the community sets restaurateurs up to succeed. n
“The particular food and drinks that might mark such an occasion will often vary, depending on regional differences,” says Delia Cosentino, an associate professor of art history and architecture at DePaul University in Chicago. “Ritual celebrations are not homogenous across Greater Mexico. But items like mole, pan de muertos and atole often transcend more regionally determined dishes, like tasajo from Chiapas or Mayan pibipollo of Campeche.” Each city in Mexico has a different way of embracing its collective roots. There is not a onesize-fits-all option when approaching Mexican cuisine, and to label it as such is a disservice to the people and food.
SPRING 2019 | 41
FROM THE KITCHEN
Going Gourmet Ambitious new restaurants are taking Mexican cuisine upscale with premium ingredients and innovative ideas by Victor Ozols
Despite being one of the most popular cuisines in the United States, Mexican fare often faces a perception that it’s for casual dining only. For years, Mexican restaurants have proliferated in the budget and mid-range categories, but have found high-end success elusive. Fortunately, this culinary wrong is being righted as a new class of restaurateurs continues the work of pioneers like Rick Bayless in establishing a place for Mexican food in the world of fine dining.
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“Mexican has always been marginalized as a cheaper food, and it was difficult to break through,” says Faiz Ally, chef de cuisine at Poca Madre in Washington, D.C. “We wanted to take it in the other direction.” In the case of this intimate, 65-seat restaurant from chef Victor Albisu, its success in a segment dominated by Italian, French and Japanese establishments came from a willingness to shatter expectations. “Poca Madre basically means badass or really cool, and the name is something we use as guidance as we prepare the menu. We ask, ‘Is this dish poca madre? Does it live up to that name?’” explains Ally. “We wanted to be forward-thinking and aggressive, and it’s that alternative mindset that allowed us to push the envelope.” This point of view can be tasted in the restaurant’s mole de la casa, a derivative of traditional mole poblano that makes such substitutions as golden raisins for red raisins and foie gras in place of lard. “You could go to a hundred Mexican restaurants and 99 are definitely not putting foie gras into their classic mole,” he continues. “We’re utilizing a different ingredient, something that may not be commonly used and is more high-end, to fulfill the role of a classic ingredient.” At Brooklyn, New York’s Leyenda, some of the city’s most exquisite cocktails are matched with equally elevated food pairings from the kitchen of chef Jorge Romero, a native of Morelos, Mexico. “We use fresh, local ingredients,” Romero says. “For our steak, we buy a higher quality cut, and for our chicken dishes we use organic chicken.” And when cheese is called for in a recipe, they always go for the good stuff. “In my fava bean empanadas,” Romero continues, “I have drunken goat cheese, and I use Humboldt Fog cheese for my poblano relleno.” n
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FROM THE KITCHEN
a
Slow-Cooked Tradition
“I’m a third-generation, native Texan,” says Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez, a Reinhart Foodservice corporate chef for the New Orleans division. “My great-great-grandfather came to [the United States] in 1812, and barbacoa is a tradition I grew up with.” Many of his Latin-inspired recipes have been passed on for generations.
Takes Centerstage
“My family always had barbacoa for weddings, and my earliest memory of it was at my cousin’s wedding in Mexico,” recalls Diana Dávila, chef/owner of Chicago’s Mi Tocaya. “It’s a primitive celebration,” describes Anthony Lamas, chef/owner of Louisville’s Seviche. “I grew up on a farm in central California. Through the whole process, you learn respect for the food given—it’s more than just the end result.”
3 Latin chefs share personal connections to barbacoa by Jeffrey Ward
Originating in the Caribbean before migrating to Central America and Mexico, barbacoa is historically a community effort, with everyone participating. The process can be described as cooking in a large, earthen crockpot and starts with the freshest meat available, usually farm-raised sheep, lamb or goat. While being prepared and seasoned, a hole is dug in the ground and lined with rocks, into which wood is burned until the oven is red-hot. The meat is placed into a large pot (sometimes with the stomach and edible organs on top), then lowered into the coals. Covered with maguey leaves or large cactus paddles and dirt, everything is left to steam-cook until tender, sometimes overnight.
Talk to any chef versed in barbacoa, the traditional method of slow-cooking meats over a fire in a pit in the ground, and you are sure to get a very personal account involving traditions passed down through generations of family gatherings and special occasions.
“My anticipation for barbacoa was like a kid not able to sleep well the night before Christmas morning,” says Marquez. Variations of this ancient cooking method differs from region to region, but the outcome is always the same: juicy, succulent meat that is easily shredded and served simply in soft, corn tortillas with onion and cilantro; a delicious, rich broth is often enjoyed first as a consommé or soup. Because it is so labor intensive, authentic barbacoa is usually only available at family-run establishments and not often on general restaurant menus. “To make the dish, you have to understand it, you need to do the research and get to know the origins to understand where it comes from,” explains Dávila. “At some places, people might just like the way it sounds. They’ll cook lamb and call it barbacoa.” Nevertheless, committed chefs are adding their own spin on it. At Seviche, Lamas does lamb barbacoa with poblano manchego grits, lemon rosemary demi glacé and root vegetables. Dávila has marinated whole beef ribs in adobo before smoking in banana leaves, slicing the meat and reassembling back onto the bone for serving. And Marquez slow cooks beef cheeks in herbs, guajillo chilis and pasilla chilis in earthenware for a beefy, bold, robust dish. Ultimately, this is a style of cooking close to the heart, existing beyond trends in places where delicious food and family intersect. “I learned barbacoa before farm-to-table,” says Lamas. “It’s a way of life.” n
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BARBACOA BEEF CHEEKS STREET TACOS Chef Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez New Orleans Division Servings: 12 (2 tacos each)
ingredients Cachete de Res Barbacoa 5 lbs beef cheeks 2 ea Guajillo chili, dried and seeded 2 ea pasilla chili, dried and seeded 3 ea bay leaf ½ tsp whole clove 1 tbsp Mexican oregano 2 tbsp cumin 1 whole ripe avocado (cut in 1/8) 1 ea medium onion (quartered) 3 cups beef broth Garnish: ½ white onion minced, ½ bunch fresh cilantro chopped, 2 each limes (quartered), 2 dozen corn tortillas. Add with favorite hot sauce or salsa (optional).
instructions In slow cooker, on med-high, add all ingredients, and let them cook for 7 hours to 8 hours or until meat shreds tender. Warm corn tortillas, then add shredded barbacoa. Top with onions, cilantro and avocado; squeeze lime juice on top.
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FROM THE KITCHEN
It’s in the Sauce You’ll be hard pressed to find a Mexican restaurant that doesn’t serve salsa or cook with various sauces. In many cases, sauce is an integral component to a lot of Mexican recipes. Many people know about table salsas like pico de gallo, salsa verde or even guacamole, but there’s more to Mexican cooking than table salsas.
More than just an accompaniment to tortilla chips, salsa is a diverse ingredient used in Mexican cooking. by Ari Bendersky
You can use table salsas to simply dip a tortilla chip or add it to a variety of food to add heat or enhance the flavor. Beyond the well-known red and green table sauces lives a host of other cooking sauces. Here, we explore just a few.
Mole: Ask anyone for their mole recipe, and you’ll likely get a laugh as many are secretive and passed down within families. This classic, rich and savory sauce comes in a few forms and usually has an average of 20 ingredients. You can do red, green, yellow, black and many other versions that include various nuts, seeds, dried chiles, fruit and more. Mole negro is the fairly common version you’ll find in the United States and includes chocolate as well as cinnamon, clove and other sweet-savory spices. Mole is served with meats, vegetables, chiles and even alone as a dipping sauce.
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Adobo: While it might seem otherwise, adobo doesn’t necessarily refer to the adobo chile, rather it derives from the Spanish word adobar, which means to marinade. Meats marinate for a time and then get cooked in the usually reddish adobo sauce, which gets its color from paprika that is combined with salt, garlic, vinegar and more.
Tomatillo: If you’ve ever eaten or made salsa verde, you likely made a tomatillo sauce. These sauces comprise the tomatillo, a small green vegetable that resembles a tomato. While basic in its preparation, tomatillo sauce can have loads of flavor from garlic, chiles, salt and other seasonings.
Pipian: This cousin of mole usually comprises pumpkin (pepitas) or squash seeds blended into a thick sauce with chiles (like ancho or guajillo), nuts, sesame seeds, seasonings like cinnamon, clove and cumin and more. Pork and chicken are typically made in a pipian sauce. You can make rojo or verde sauces, depending if you use red tomatoes or green tomatillos as the base.
Cream sauce: Love battered and fried shrimp tacos? Then you’ve likely have had crema served over top. Cream sauces usually accompany dishe, like enchiladas or chiles en nogada, which gets topped with a walnutbased cream sauce. n
IT’S TIME TO BUG OUT
Adding insects to your dishes can add texture, flavor and intrigue. by Ari Bendersky
It may seem straight out of an episode of “Fear Factor,” but eating insects really isn’t as off-putting or gross as you may think. Sure, American diners have more familiarity with eating animal protein like chicken, beef or pork, but cultures around the world have cooked with insects for centuries for flavor, texture and as a high-quality protein source. Maybe it’s time you do, too. La Slowteria in Brooklyn
Mexican cooking counts insects like grasshoppers, ant larvae and agave worms as key ingredients in many recipes, especially in regions like Oaxaca, and, in many cases, a true delicacy. Grasshoppers, also known as chapulines, have a delicious nutty flavor and crunchy texture. “It’s hard to eat a worm, but a grasshopper is a good first step,” says Hugo Orozco Carrillo, chef at La Slowteria in Brooklyn. “It’s grassy, citrusy and salty. Many people compare it to a pumpkin seed or sunflower seed. It’s nutty.” Orozco Carrillo says you can ease patrons into insects by frying some grasshoppers with lime, salt and chili powder and serving them as a snack in a ramekin. Then you can expand, using them in more dishes. You can mix them into guacamole or add
them to corn wedges with cotija cheese and mayonnaise. He also uses ground chapulines as a crust on ahi tuna. Like mushrooms, insects are an easy way to add umami flavors to food, says Andres Padilla, culinary director for Rick Bayless’ Frontera Hospitality Group and the chef de cuisine at Leña Brava, all in Chicago. “If you’re adding them to a recipe as an accent or flavor builder, you’ll add umami and complexity,” Padilla explains.
You can also incorporate insects into your cocktail program. One simple method, if you serve mezcal at your restaurant or bar, is to grind up the agave worm larvae and mix it with sea salt and finely ground dried Mexican chile to make sal de gusano. Serve it with mezcal and orange slices or rim the edge of a michelada. Orozco Carrillo has ground up grasshoppers and mixed them with tomato juice and mezcal for an Oaxacan Bloody Mary, but also took the insect’s name to heart and created a chocolate mint cocktail garnished with nasturtium leaf and a grasshopper. “This was the grasshopper cocktail,” he says, playfully. And if you’re able to look at insects from a playful perspective, you can also have a lot of fun experimenting with them in your recipes. n
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FROM THE KITCHEN
Mexican Flavor Faves Meet American Classics Ingredients from south of the border are familiar friends to chefs by M. Jane Johnson
Justin Bazdarich, chef/owner of Speedy Romeo in New York City, describes his menu as wood-fired seasonal American with Italian influences, and for the most part, preparations and ingredients hew closely to that culinary path. With increasing frequency, his flavor arsenal also includes Mexican provisions, things he reaches when he wants to amp up flavors and bring unexpected nuance.
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Mexican Flavor Faves Meet American Classics Take the grilled octopus, for instance, a dish with strong Mediterranean influences as seen in the romesco sauce, celery and crispy potatoes accompanying it. “It also has chili oil for heat, and most people wouldn’t guess that it’s made with guajillos and anchos,” Bazdarich says, referring to two distinctly Mexican chiles. The Latin larder is deliciously rich with items such as chipotles, cilantro, avocados, limes and jalapenos that are familiar and much loved by Americans. Add to that a huge Latin American presence in many restaurant kitchens and it’s no surprise Bazdarich is hardly alone in these cross-cultural culinary exchanges. “There is a pattern of adaptation of ingredients,” says Krishnendu Ray, chair of the department of nutrition and food studies at New York University. “It takes about 40 years to move from diffusion of ingredients to the substantial spread of dishes and cuisines into the mainstream.” Bazdarich, who also owns Oxomoco in Brooklyn, N.Y., sees it as a natural evolution that’s entirely welcome. “Americans are so familiar with Mexican ingredients that there’s no reason not to use them in new ways. Limes bring acidity, cilantro brings fresh, herbaceous brightness and chile brings heat,” he describes. “They bring flavor twists that are out of the box.” Jesus Martinez, co-owner of La Palapa in Pittsburgh, is more than happy for American chefs to explore ingredients of his native country. “It’s important for chefs to have an open mind and try new things, and it’s absolutely OK to use them in non-traditional ways. I love to see things like chipotles and cilantro on American menus, used differently,” he says. “People want to see that creativity.” Martinez and Jose Navarrete, his chef and business partner, are happy to engage in a little culinary borrowing themselves, mixing authenticity with innovation. “We learn about American ingredients and sometimes use them. It’s exciting and keeps things interesting and fresh.” n
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FROM THE KITCHEN
The
Not-So-Basic
Churro
The classic Mexican dessert is an Instagrammer’s sweetest dream by Erica Bethe Levin
Once enjoyed as a traditional street food in Spain, churros are now appearing on menus at trendy restaurants all over the country. And these are not your basic cinnamon and sugar sticks. We’re talking churro cupcakes, bread pudding and s’mores. For a dessert comprised mostly of flour, water and sugar, diners are loving chefs’ updated versions of the classic street sweet. “I grew up eating [churros],” says Marc Vidal, executive chef of Boqueria, a Spanish tapas bar with locations in New York and Washington, D.C. “The flavor profile makes them the perfect sweet to get creative with, so we love to incorporate different seasonal fruits, ice cream and more to mix things up. Our guests love trying new spins on the traditional version; they are hands-down our most popular dessert.” Vidal continues, “The product itself is not expensive, but they’re much more labor intensive than any of our other desserts. What’s important is that our guests love them, and they come back for them time and time again.” Some of the churros Boqueria’s loyal guests return for are classic churros with hot chocolate, churros stuffed with Nutella,
churro ice cream sandwiches, churro s’mores and churro sundaes. And what could be more “Instagrammable” than a smorgasbord of Latin-inspired desserts? “We see a lot of guests sharing photos of the churros, especially the churro sundae when it has sparklers for a birthday celebration, the ice cream sandwich and the s’more,” says Vidal. “The s’more was recently featured in a video on Instagram handle @insiderdessert, which garnered millions of views.” It’s hard to complain about social media when it offers that kind of free, viral marketing power. Tuko Cantina in Chicago also boasts a churro sundae that “looks so fun and delicious, it’s perfect for an Instagram picture that for sure gains us free press,” says Jocelyn Meza, the popular new restaurant’s pastry chef. “People come to the restaurant for the hype of our food in general, but our churro sundae is a fan favorite.” Datassential, a food industry market research firm, reports that churros have experienced a 38 percent growth on U.S. menus over the past four years. Many restaurateurs know that the resurgence of this dessert will not be winding down anytime soon. As Vidal has discovered, “People come to the restaurant specifically for the churro dessert. A lot of people also order them togo.” Churros to-go: the next big trend? n
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FROM THE KITCHEN
Oh, THOSE TACOS IN THE OZARKS!
Conventional cuisine in the Ozark region of the United States (primarily southern Missouri and northern Arkansas for those who missed out on the bingeworthy Jason Bateman Netflix show of the same name) was largely influenced by a Tex-Mex and Southern “iron curtain” on dining. That was until agribusiness reshaped the demographics and opened doors to extensive Latin fare options.
Latin fare excites this region’s taste buds by David Salvi
From the influx of cultural impact, more novel Latin tastes started to penetrate the market, serving the Ozarks in their truest forms. Authentic tastes from Mexico and Central America, however, are tough to recreate. It’s more than homemade yellow corn tortillas, mouth-watering marinated carnitas and Chihuahua cheese. It’s family.
CENTRAL TO THE RECIPE At Antojos Tacos y Mas in Springfield, Mo., the Aparicio family works at every corner of the modestly sized restaurant to ensure quality. Owner Hugo Aparicio proudly shares that his mom holds down the kitchen, while his wife manages front of house. Altogether, the Salvadoran family welcomes their diverse clientele with open arms.
on Antojos Tacos y Mas’ simple, yet refined menu: pupusas, a traditional Salvadoran dish with handmade masa tortillas filled with melted cheese, succulent chopped pork and the family’s secret sauce, as well as platanos fritos, a Salvadoran and Honduraninfluenced golden plantain breakfast dish with scrambled egg, beans and sour cream.
“We learn [customer] names, always say hi to build that type of relationship,” says Aparicio, who previously managed a restaurant, working his way through the ranks of that operation.
The tacos are also crowd pleasers, offering clean, traditional options of carnitas, lengua (beef tongue) and carne asada, all served with cilantro and onions. But the highlight is Antojos Tacos y Mas’ mouth-watering barbacoa tacos with jicama, carrot salad and queso fresco on a flour tortilla.
Aparicio says he opened Antojos Tacos y Mas in 2018 to deliver eclectic Latin fare on top of Mexican mainstays. Fajitas, enchiladas and burritos are table stakes. He sets his restaurant apart by fusing Salvadoran, Honduran and Guatemalan influences, calling it “more Central American” fare. He raves about two champions
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“The mixture makes it a pretty interesting taste,” Aparicio says of the barbacoa tacos, which surprise customers at first. Similarly, across town on Sunshine Street, Cesar’s Old Mexico restaurant made a commitment
when the owners opened its doors three years ago: Be authentic Mexican food with unique Latin offerings. They stripped the wheels and axles off the street taco concept and made it better. The restaurant features an open kitchen and serves only fresh ingredients, large portion sizes and tasty margaritas—all at affordable prices. Customers love everything about it, and they keep coming back. “We treat everyone like a family,” says owner Cesar Ortiz. “We know 90 percent of our customers, and they’re like our family.” Ortiz, a former cook, added more items to his colorful menu, including sopes (crunchy corn discs with meat), pozoles (Mexican soup or stew), pupusas, The Big Tijuana (fajitas), all made to order. He is especially proud of Cesar’s Old Mexico’s trinity of taco favorites: al pastor, lengua and carnitas.
Chile Rellenos A little less traditional in the fact that these are not battered, breaded or coated in egg white, but simply grilled so the pepper flavor is more pronounced. Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
Red Sauce For Pupusas Salsa Roja is always served with traditional pupusas. Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
2 cups canned whole peeled tomato (with juice)
4 large poblano peppers
½ cup onion, small diced
1 tbsp cooking oil
½ cup poblano chili, diced
1 cup Mexican cheese, shredded (Chihuahua)
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup Oaxaca cheese, shredded
½ cup chicken stock
2 tbsp Cotija cheese grated
2 tsp ground cumin
3 cups enchilada sauce (canned is fine)
1 tbsp lime juice
8 flour tortillas
Salt and pepper to taste
8 fresh lime wedges INSTRUCTIONS
Pre-heat charbroil/grill to high. If there is no grill, this can be done over a burner on medium flame. Oil the outside of poblano peppers and place on grill. Grill each side of peppers until outsides start to char. Place charred peppers into plastic bags and allow to steam for about 10 minutes. Carefully remove skin from steamed peppers. You may use paper towels to help, but do not wash off with water. Little bits of skin left on are fine. Cut a slit in the peppers and remove seeds and membranes. Fill each with Chihuahua cheese and place in a baking dish. Pour on enchilada sauce and top with Oaxaca cheese. Place in preheated, 375 F oven for about 15 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly. Serve with warmed tortillas and lime wedges. Pupusas
INSTRUCTIONS
Purée tomatoes, onion, poblano, garlic, lime juice, cumin and chicken stock in a blender until smooth. Pour sauce into a saucepan and cook over medium heat until slightly thickened. Machaca Con Huevo (Machaca with Eggs) Shredded beef with scrambled eggs, tomatoes and onions; great for breakfast and a terrific way to use leftover roast and brisket. Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp cooking oil or lard ½ cup onion, small diced ½ cup poblano peppers, small diced 3 cup shredded cooked brisket 3 Roma tomatoes, rough chopped
A traditional Salvadorian dish found in a growing number of Mexican restaurants. Always served with a simple pickled slaw and basic tomato sauce
½ cup fire-roasted salsa
Servings: 4
1 cup Mexican melting cheese (like Chihuahua)
INGREDIENTS
8 ea eight-inch flour tortillas
4 cups masa harina
Condiments: salsa, lime wedge and sliced jalapenos
2 cups warm water
INSTRUCTIONS
1 tsp salt 1 cup refried beans 1 ½ cups grated Mexican melting cheese Oil (for oiling hands and skillet) INSTRUCTIONS
In large bowl, mix masa harina with water and salt, stirring well. Add more water, if necessary, to obtain a soft dough that does not crack around the edges when flattened. Let the dough rest, covered with plastic wrap, for about 15 minutes. Blend beans and cheese in blender until smooth. Divide dough into about 8 pieces (oil your hands to keep the dough from sticking to them). Form each piece of dough into a ball, then make an indentation in the ball. Place cheese, beans, pork or a combination of fillings in indentation, and carefully wrap dough around the filling to seal. Flatten ball into a disk, about ¼-inch thick. On an oiled flat-top griddle or heavy pan, cook pupusa until the bottom is well browned, then flip over and cook other side. Serve hot with slaw and tomato sauce.
8 large eggs, beaten
In a large skillet, sauté onion and peppers in oil until they soften. Stir in tomato, salsa and brisket and cook for another 2 minutes to 3 minutes. Add beaten eggs and cook for 2 minutes to 3 minutes or until eggs are cooked. Plate and top with some of the cheese. Serve warm flour tortillas on the side, a slice of lime, sliced jalapenos and additional salsa. n
Chef Lou Rice Springfield Division
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FROM THE KITCHEN
Feed the Appetite for Change WITH FRESH, LATIN FLAVORS
M
exican cuisine in the United States continues to astound, leading a rapid evolution that pays tasty tribute to its extraordinary heritage with a very modern sensibility. With almost 50,000 thriving Mexican restaurants across the country and Latin American foods besting even the ubiquity of hamburgers and pizza on the menu, our flavor profile has been irrevocably changed for the better. For chefs and their heat-seeking customers, there are endless discoveries to be made, with various regions offering a fresh palette for culinary creativity. On the following pages, you’ll find menu inspiration as we cover every type of meal part, day part and diet, fearlessly reimagine street food favorites, take on today’s top trends and start a few of our own. Fortune favors the bold, so enjoy these unabashedly adventurous, yet easily replicable dishes guaranteed to result in barriga llena, corazón content (full stomach, happy heart). ASIAN-MEXICAN FUSION. A particularly delightful combination, stemming from Mexico City’s growing population of Japanese chefs finding an abundance of common ground with
complementary flavors and spices. Chef Chris Holden unleashes his creativity with mashups of Korean-inspired, smoky pickled radish and frozen margaritas with Japanese yuzu sauce. GOURMET APPLICATIONS. Tap into the proliferation of upscale Mexican dishes at home on the crispest white tablecloth as simple tacos and quesadillas are elevated with top-shelf ingredients such as truffled avocado cream, fresh shrimp and crabmeat. EARLY RISERS. The Mexican breakfast is waking up menus at a rapid clip with chilaquiles, migas, molletes and street tacos. RESPECT THE REGION. Authenticity factors in the diverse sweep of Mexico’s landscape, each spawning its own highly local cuisine: red snapper and shrimp on the coasts, slowcooked and braised meats inland, and moles further inland. We’ve dug in with our yellowfin tuna and guac tostadas, tilapia empanadas, and pork- and beef-centric tortas, tacos and chili, and Chef Jeff Merry’s unique take on chicken in peanut sauce from Huachachinago, Pueblo and arroz a la tumbada from Vera Cruz.
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Chef Lee Sepaniac
dishes on the sweet, savory and spicy of modern Mexican fare by Victor Ozols
For Chef Lee Sepaniac, of Gourmet Food Service Group, the allure of Mexican food lies in its versatility and capacity for creativity. Whether street food or fine-dining cuisine, classic or cutting edge, it always manages to impart a sense of vitality and warmth.
LS: It was a Korean gochujang (red chili paste) taco. A restaurant was doing it, and I tried it and it was awesome. Vegetarian tacos are gaining in popularity as well. In the Midwest, I’ve seen what’s basically a loaded baked potato in a taco. I’ve seen tater tots inside a taco—they dressed it up with hatch green chilies and a lime-cilantro crema. I’ve seen barbecue pork, and there’s even a Creole influence with things like po’ boy tacos.
“I love all of the flavors and different spices they have, and I don’t just mean peppers,” he says. “They’re using bitter chocolate and adding sweet spices like cinnamon to savory dishes, and I appreciate the playfulness of putting pretty much anything in a taco.”
RI: How are these new dishes served?
For 2019, Sepaniac sees chefs in Mexican restaurants continuing to push boundaries, as a focus on fundamentals meets tantalizing new ideas for ingredients, preparation and plating.
LS: They’re mostly based on street food, so they lend themselves to a small-plate setting. Restaurants are moving away from big piles of white rice, refried beans, shredded lettuce and chopped tomatoes on every plate. You could do an enchilada, but serve it with a traditional grain instead of white rice and an heirloom bean done in a different preparation, or with a Spanish chorizo.
Restaurant Inc.: What trends are you seeing in Mexican food this year?
RI: Are there any new ingredients in the Mexican pantry to take a look at?
Chef Lee Sepaniac: Chefs are recalling very traditional roots to Spanish and/or Cuban ingredients with things like white anchovies, epazote and culantro, but they’re using them in a modern presentation. I’m also seeing the fusion of Mexican with different styles of cuisine.
LS: The use of dried hibiscus flower is trending. It’s typically made into a sweetened tea. Other interesting items are nopales (cactus), huitlacoche, which is corn smut, different olives and regional Mexican cheeses, like Chihuahua and Oaxaca cheeses.
RI: What kinds of fusion are you seeing?
RI: How about those Mexican spices?
LS: All kinds, from American to Cuban to Asian. Even Peruvian. People are putting lots of different things on tacos and empanadas. I’ve even seen Korean flavors on a taco. It translates into a fun, elevated and modern take.
LS: It seems like every month we are on to the next hottest pepper. That’s always fun if you don’t want to taste anything for a week after! But just because the pepper is super-hot it doesn’t mean that the sauce it’s made with has to be extremely hot to feature the flavor. And a lot of these hotter peppers have an interesting and complex fruity and vegetable flavor in the background. But yeah, the super-spicy stuff is out there.
RI: Tell me about the Korean taco and other versions you’ve seen.
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Huitlacoche Quesadilla with Truffled Avocado Crema & Tomatilla Salsa Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS
2 ea
white corn tortillas
4 oz
white mushrooms, diced
2 oz
huitlachoche
½ oz
green onion, diced
1 oz
Sweety Drop Peruvian peppers
¼ oz
minced garlic
1 ea
ripe avocado
8 oz
sour cream
1oz
white truffle oil
1 oz
black truffle peelings, minced
4 ea
tomatillo
1 oz
green onion
¼ oz
roasted garlic
1 Tbsp lime juice 1 tsp
jalapeño powder
INSTRUCTIONS
Fry corn tortilla in between two baskets to create a flat tostada. Saute mushrooms for three minutes to four minutes, then add huitlacoche, onion and garlic and continue to saute for two minutes. Finish with Sweety drops for crema, puree avocado with sour cream and truffle oil, then finish with minced truffle peelings. For salsa, small dice tomatillo and combine with the rest of the ingredients. Refrigerate for one hour.
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Grilled Shrimp Al Pastor Taco with Achiote & Culantro Crema Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
6 oz
shrimp, peeled and deveined, small
1 tsp
pasilla negro chile pepper, powder
1 tsp
guajillo chile pepper, powder
1 tsp
Chile de arbol, powder
1 tsp
garlic, granulated
1 tsp
onion, granulated
1 ea
pineapple, ring
1 tsp
smoked Spanish paprika
1 oz
achiote paste
8 oz
sour cream or Mexican crema
½ oz
culantro
1 ea
lime wedge
1 oz
white cabbage, shredded
¼ oz
red onion, minced
4 ea
white corn tortillas
INSTRUCTIONS
Marinate shrimp in onion, garlic and chili powders with salt and pepper. Chill for 30 minutes to 40 minutes. Skewer and grill shrimp, season pineapple ring and grill. For the crema, puree with achiote paste and finish with chopped culantro. Toast tortillas on flat top, creating two double layer tacos and serve with minced onion, cabbage and lime wedge.
Hibiscus Tea "Agua de Jamaica" (Margarita)
Green Chile Mariscos
Servings: 4
Servings: 2
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
1 cup
dried Jamaican hibiscus
8 oz
pork butt, ½-inch dice
2 cups
water
1 ea s
mall onion, diced
1 cup
agave nectar
1 ea
green bell pepper, small diced
1 qt
water
1 ea
Serrano pepper, small diced
½ ea
lime, juiced
1 ea
jalapeño pepper, minced
1 Tbsp mint flavored crystals
1 Tbsp New Mexico green mild powder
1 Tbsp sugar
½ tsp
green jalapeno powder
MARGARITA OPTION:
¼ tsp
green Tabasco powder
4 oz
hibiscus tea (from above)
¼ oz
garlic, minced
2 oz
tequila, blanco
1 oz
oil
1 ea
lime segment
1 oz
flour
1 Tbsp lime sugar
28 oz
chicken stock
1 Tbsp lime salt
6 oz
Garbanzo beans
INSTRUCTIONS
6 oz
pigeon peas
6 oz
Corona beans
1 oz
green onion, sliced
1 ea
lime, juice and zest
8 oz
shrimp, diced
½ oz
micro cilantro
½ oz
sour cream or Mexican crema
4 oz
crab meat
For tea: Boil water and add dried hibiscus to steep for 15 minutes. Strain and add lime agave nectar and lime juice. Once dissolved, add cold water. To finish, mix mint flavored crystals with sugar and rim glass; serve over ice. For Margarita: Prepare tea and reserve cold. Mix over ice with tequila and finish with mixture of lime salt and sugar. Coconut Horchata Martini Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS
½ cup
white rice
½ cup
sugar
1 ea
cinnamon stick
¼ cup
chopped almonds, toasted
¼ cup
shredded coconut, unsweetened, toasted lightly
1 tsp
vanilla paste
16 oz
water
6 oz
almond milk
6 oz
evaporated milk
2 oz
coconut rum
6 oz
coconut horchata
Recipes by Chef Lee Sepaniac
INSTRUCTIONS
Use ¼ of the flour to coat pork butt and lightly brown in ¼ of the oil. Add all aromatic vegetables and chili pepper powders and sweat together. (Leave pepper seeds in if you like it a bit spicier.) Add remaining flour and oil and cook 2 minutes to 3 minutes on low to create a roux. Whisk in hot chicken stock and cook for 30 minutes on low heat. Add already cooked beans and simmer another 10 minutes. Add shrimp, lime juice, zest and green onions and continue to simmer 2 minutes to 3 minutes until shrimp are cooked. Finish with crab meat, crema and micro cilantro. n
1 Tbsp dark cocoa sugar 1 tsp
habanero sugar
INSTRUCTIONS
Mix rice, sugar, cinnamon, almonds, coconut, vanilla paste and water together and soak overnight or for at least six hours. Strain and discard water from soaking, then blend all ingredients with almond and evaporated milk until smooth.
SPRING 2019 | 59
Mexican Cuisine’s Tantalizing New Horizons with
Chef Christopher
by Victor Ozols
60 | RESTAURANT INC
While Mexican cuisine is popular with just about everybody, Christopher Holden, an executive chef with Reinhart’s Milwaukee division, believes that chefs have a particular affinity for it that comes from working with people of Mexican descent in restaurant kitchens. During breaks, Holden recalls, staff would prepare traditional recipes for themselves—something he took as a friendly challenge.
“I made it my goal to seek out those who knew how to make really good tamales and different things,” Holden says. “I wanted to learn how to cook them perfectly, so I could make it for them and they’d be impressed.” Here, chef Christopher shares his thoughts on the latest trends in Mexican cuisine, from crowd-pleasing breakfast ideas to dinners even kids will love. Restaurant Inc.: What is it about Mexican cuisine that makes it special? Chef Christopher Holden: Even with something as simple as a salsa, there are a million ways to give it a twist. It seems like every family, every chef, every person can put a spin on a recipe to make it their own, and they really stand out from the rest. RI: Anything new in Mexican dining for 2019? CH: Mexican food for breakfast is new. We’ve always had the breakfast burrito, but now we’re getting some really cool ingredients in there and rethinking what breakfast is about. It doesn’t have to be eggs, bacon, ham and hash browns. A lot of Mexican food is a high source of protein and a really healthy breakfast, even tacos. RI: Are we seeing any ingredients gain in popularity? CH: I’m a big fan of dried poblanos and dried peppers, in general. They’re the root of a lot of flavors because they’re concentrated, and you can rehydrate them and pair them up to make a sauce, salsa, topping or marinade. Chefs are also celebrating some of the cuts of meat that are normally not celebrated, using cheaper cuts and turning them into something awesome. RI: Have tacos, salsas and sauces evolved as well? CH: House pickling and in-house fermenting is getting huge, using everything from onion and cabbage to radish. You can infuse a lot of flavoring in them, and they make a really nice garnish for tacos. I’m also seeing infused oils on tacos. You take chili peppers and cilantro and emulsify that into a really nice oil. It’s a very clean, healthy way to sauce something and get a lot of flavor. RI: How do you bring Mexican cuisine to the level of fine dining? CH: If you take any upscale protein and give it a Mexican treatment, it brings it up to the next level. We see tacos and burritos all the time and it’s not necessarily a premium protein. If you take black sea bass, for example, and treat it with all those flavors, it will bring it up. RI: What are your thoughts on making Mexican food kid-friendly? CH: I like build-your-own anything for kids. Fajitas are kind of the original build-your-own [dish], and they’re fantastic. Kids like their food deconstructed and separated, and they like to create their own things. Just like with a make-your-own pizza, kids can make their own quesadilla. Somebody can come over with a cart, the kids can put it together, then they fire it in the back. That’s exciting. continued...
SPRING 2019 | 61
Chorizo & Sweet Corn Breakfast Tamales
Quick Smoky Pickled Radish
Servings: 16 to 20
Servings: ½ oz
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
1 pack
corn husks, dried
1 bunch radish
1 lb
chorizo
¾ cup
white wine vinegar
½
yellow onion
¾ cup
water
1 ea
red bell pepper
3 tbsp
honey
3
garlic, minced
2 tsp
salt
3 tsp
chili powder
1 tsp r
ed pepper flakes
1 tsp
cumin
½ tsp
whole mustard seeds
1 tsp
sea salt
1 tsp
smoked paprika
1 cup
vegetable shortening
INSTRUCTIONS
4 cups
masa harina
1 tsp
salt
3 cups
chicken broth
1
egg large grade A
2 oz
pico de gallo
INSTRUCTIONS
For tamales: Soak corn husks in hot water for about 30 minutes to 40 minutes until soft. In a large skillet, spray with cooking spray and cook onions, red pepper, garlic, corn and chorizo. Add cumin, chili powder and cook until done. In a mixing bowl, add vegetable oil, masa, broth and spices. Combine until dough is light and fluffy. Add chorizo mixture to the masa dough and fold in to incorporate. Place ¼ cup of mixture on a corn husk and fold bottom over and roll closed. Tie with twine if necessary. Set up a steaming basket and steam for two hours. When finished, remove husk and plate tamale. Fry an egg over easy and season with salt and pepper. Place it on top of tamale. Top egg with pico de gallo and serve. Chili Cilantro Oil Servings: ¼ oz INGREDIENTS
2 cups
cilantro, packed fresh
1 cup
canola oil
½ tsp
salt
Pinch
cayenne
INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Blanch cilantro for only 10 seconds and dry on paper towel. In a food processor, add the oil. Leaving the machine running, add cilantro a bit at a time, salt and cayenne. Blend for one minute and put in squeeze bottle for easy application.
62 | RESTAURANT INC
Clean and trim radishes and slice thinly in a mandolin. Prepare all ingredients in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Place radish in brine and let sit in refrigerator for at least one hour. Piri Piri Shredded Chicken Huevos Rancheros Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
4 oz
shredded chicken
2 oz
Piri-Piri sauce or powder (Woodland Foods)
1 tsp
chili powder
3
eggs whisked
1 tsp
butter
1 corn
tortilla 6”
1 oz
Cotija cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
Heat chicken in skillet with half of butter and add piri-piri seasoning or sauce. Add cumin and heat throughout. Pour eggs into mixture and scramble with chicken. Toast tortilla on flat top grill with butter until crispy and fried. Serve egg and chicken on top of the tostada and top with piri-piri sauce and top with Cotija cheese. n
Chef Christopher Holden Milwaukee Division
SPRING 2019 | 63
Chef cunningham’s View on Latin Menu Trends
What I see are trends toward more authentic and creative Mexican dishes. There are still many restaurants subscribing to the old Tex-Mex model, using the same ground beef, pork and chicken in every dish. It is just wrapped a different way or maybe the sauce is a bit different, but essentially most of the dishes taste the same. There are some that are trying to break out of that mold and be more authentic. Some are doing what I call “Mexican-style tacos versus tacos Americanos,” and it is often a blackboard special or you have to ask for them. I also see unique dishes starting to emerge in this sector. As always, pork and chicken are the staple proteins.
64 | RESTAURANT INC
The salbutes recipe (a puffed, deep-fried tortilla topped with lettuce, sliced avocado, pulled chicken or turkey, tomato and pickled red onion) ties into the discussion on fresh versus bought tortillas. In this recipe, they are made fresh and pan fried, so they puff up for a different texture. The calabacitas (a traditional Mexican dish typically with pork sauteed in butter, oil or in its own fat) falls in line with the more produce-forward menu trends. This recipe does have pork, but there are many versions without meat.
Chifrijo (pictured left) Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
MEXICAN RICE 1 Cup
Rice Long Grain Parboiled
1 Tbsp Oil Salad Liquid Soybean 1/2 Cup Onion Yellow Jumbo, small dice 1 ea
Garlic Whole Peeled, minced
1/2 Cup Pepper Bell Red Medium, stem, seeded, small dice 1 tsp
Cumin Seed Ground
1 tsp
Pepper Black Ground
1 tsp
Salt Coarse Kosher
1 tsp
Turmeric Ground Organic Dry
1 tsp
Base Chicken Gourmet Paste
1 1/2
Cups water
PINTO BEANS 24 oz
Bean Pinto Fancy, washed and rinsed
2 Tbsp Oil Salad Liquid Soybean 2 ea
Garlic Whole Peeled, cloves, minced
1 Cup
Onion Yellow Jumbo, small dice
1 tsp
Cumin Seed Ground
1 tsp
Pepper Black Ground
1 tsp
Salt Coarse
5 Cups water 1/4 lb
Carnita Style Pork Meat, Boneless, Fully Cooked
1 oz
Yellow Corn Tortilla Chip, Round, about 10 chips
2 oz
Cilantro
1/4 ea
Avocado Hass #2 Ripe Fresh, sliced
3 oz
Tomato Pico De Gallo Fresh
INSTRUCTIONS
Thoroughly heat the carnitas meat by frying in a saute pan with 2 tbsp. of oil, allowing to crisp a little. 2. In a small bowl., add 1/4 cup of the Mexican rice, J /4 cup of the pinto beans and liquid. Add the hot, crisp pork carnitas. Top the pork with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the pico de gallo. Finish with ripped cilantro, sliced avocado and served with chips arranged around the bowl or on the side.
Molletes (pictured right) Find this recipe online at rfsdelivers.com.
SPRING 2019 | 65
AUTHENTIC FLAVOR BEGINS It’s the most-consumed protein in the world, and a staple in Latin dishes. Your guests want authentic flavors. You want to deliver that experience, while maximizing your profits. That means pork should be the prominent protein on your menu.
pork.org/marketing [ADVERTORIAL]
WITH
Top Four-Year Growth Categories in Mexican Restaurants PORK PROTEINS • Bacon 29.1% • Chorizo 15.4% • Sausage 7.2% • Pork 4.9% MEXICAN ENTREÉS WITH PORK POTENTIAL • Chilaquiles 29.5% • Taco 15.3% • Torta 6.9% • Burrito 6.4% • Tostada 5.0%
© 2019 National Pork Board, Des Moines, IA USA. This message funded by America’s Pork Producers and the Pork Checkoff.
Chef Kevin Nash Whips Up Decadent Tacos, Tostadas
Duck Tostada Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
6 oz
duck breast 14 oz-16 oz, double lobe, frozen
Render duck to medium, at 125 F, and let rest.
2 oz
black bean, in brine
4 oz
jicama root, fresh
3 oz
tomatillo, fresh
1 ea
cilantro bunched, fresh
2 oz
avocado pulp, 100% Hass, frozen
3 oz
corn, whole kernel
2 oz
red pepper, large, fresh
2 ea
lime, fresh
3 oz
Cotija cheese wedge
1 ea
tortilla, flour, frozen
2 oz
sour cream
1 oz
salad oil, liquid, soybean
68 | RESTAURANT INC
Brush tortilla with oil and grill to get marks on one side, yet not too crispy. Cut tomatillos in half, brush with oil and roast on grill. Toss in oil. Julienne red pepper and reserve. Peel jicama and cut into 1/4-inch batons. Squeeze juice of 1/2 a lime and pinch of salt to the pulp. Fry remaining cilantro leaves. With a spoon, spread sour cream on grilled tortilla. Slice duck thinly and lay in center of tortilla. Then disperse the rest of the ingredients surrounding the duck.
Lobster & Corn Tacos Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
5 oz
mayonnaise, extra heavy
2 ea
cilantro, bunched fresh
1/4 oz
garlic, chopped in oil
5 oz
lobster meat
3 oz
Arbol chili pepper, dried
4 oz
whole corn kernel
1/2 tsp dark chili powder 2 oz
Cotija cheese
2 ea
tortilla, flour
2 ea
lime, fresh
INSTRUCTIONS
Pick cilantro and add leaves to mayo and process until smooth in a food processor. Reconstitute peppers in hot water for about an hour. Chop and add to lobster meat. Shred cheese and reserve. Roast corn until brown and add to lobster, peppers, juice of one lime and a pinch of salt. Quickly brown tortillas in a cast iron skillet. With a spoon, spread cilantro mayo on the tortilla. Distribute lobster mixture on the tortilla. Garnish with cheese and chili powder and two lime wedges.
Chef Kevin Nash Eastern PA Division
SPRING 2019 | 69
Chef jeff merry Creates Casual Mexican Fare
70 | RESTAURANT INC
Chicken in Peanut Sauce: Pollo Encacahuatado Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
4 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided
too dry.) Set aside to rest for 30 minutes to 45 minutes, covering tightly with plastic wrap.
2
Roma tomatoes, roasted and peeled
To form tortillas, cut off 2-inch pieces and roll into balls.
1/2
medium white onion, peeled and chopped
1
large garlic clove, peeled
To press, take wax paper or plastic wrap, place ball in center, top with another piece of paper and place in tortilla press (or use a rolling pin), close and press until flat.
1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1/2 cup shelled peanuts, skins removed 1
ancho chile, seeded, deveined and soaked in warm water until soft
1 stick
cinnamon
2 cups
chicken broth
Salt to taste
INSTRUCTIONS
Season chicken with salt and pepper, and saute in 2 tablespoons of oil until golden. While chicken is sauteing, make sauce.
Repeat 2-3 times for flatter tortillas. Heat cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. (You can use a non-stick pan or a flat top as well.) Cook tortillas until they begin to bubble slightly, about 2 minutes on each side.
Basil Tortilla Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
Puree tomatoes, onion and garlic, with a little water, until smooth. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of lard or oil in a large saucepan, add tomato puree, and cook over
1 ½ cups
basil, cleaned, washed & dried
3 Tbsp
cold water
2 Tbsp
olive oil
medium heat for 5 minutes.
3/4 to 1 cup warm water
In food processor, puree peanuts, chile and cinnamon with chicken broth; add this mixture to tomato puree and continue cooking another 5 minutes.
INSTRUCTIONS
Transfer chicken into pan containing sauce, cover and cook over low heat for 35 minutes to 40 minutes. Serve with rice and fresh, hot tortillas.
Place basil, cold water and olive oil in blender. Blend on high until smooth. Mix by hand with flour tortilla base (see basic flour tortilla recipe). Slowly add hot water until fully incorporated. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes to 45 minutes, covering tightly with plastic wrap.
Basic Flour Tortilla
To form tortillas, cut off 2-inch pieces and roll into balls.
Servings: 1 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
To press, take wax paper or plastic wrap, place ball in center, top with another piece of paper and place in tortilla press (or use a rolling pin), close and press until flat.
2 ½ tsp baking powder
Repeat 2-3 times for flatter tortillas.
1 tsp
salt
½ cup
lard/bacon fat
Heat cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. (You can use a non-stick pan or a flat top as well.) Cook tortillas until they begin to bubble slightly, about 2 minutes on each side.
INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
Stir together ingredients with optional flavorings below. Stir ingredients with optional flavorings below. Knead by hand until ingredients come together in a ball. (Note: you may need to add a touch more water if dough is
SPRING 2019 | 71
Divine Swine
Squeal Over These Pork-Infused Delights
Chorizo Meatballs with Manchego Cheese Servings: 6 INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
3/4 lb
Prairie Creek ground pork 80/20
1/4 lb
Eagle Ridge® pork chorizo
2
large eggs (lightly beaten)
®
4 cloves garlic (minced) 1 tsp
smoked paprika
3/4 tsp salt 3/4 cup panko bread crumbs 1/2 cup manchego cheese (finely shredded, about 1½ ounces, divided) 24
72 | RESTAURANT INC
basil leaves
Preheat broiler and arrange a rack about 6 inches from heat. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with foil and set aside. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, garlic, paprika and salt. Stir in panko and 1/2 cup of cheese. Add pork and chorizo and gently mix until well combined. With dampened hands, shape mixture into 24 meatballs, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, arranging them on the prepared baking sheet. Broil meatballs until cooked through and lightly browned, 12 minutes to 14 minutes, turning halfway through. Set aside to cool slightly, about 3 minutes. Spear a basil leaf (fold larger ones in half) and a meatball onto a toothpick and transfer to a serving plate. Repeat with remaining basil and meatballs. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese and serve warm.
Chamorro de Cerdo en Achiote. Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
2
Prairie Creek® pork loin shanks, 2-3 lbs
1
achiote paste or powder pack
Using your blender or by hand, dissolve the achiote paste with the orange juice, garlic, oil, marjoram, salt and pepper, pulsing to liquefy.
3
oranges (the juice from 3 oranges)
2 cloves garlic I pinch marjoram I Tbsp
oil
Salt and pepper
Place pork shanks in a big kitchen bowl, together with the liquefied achiote marinade we did in step 1. Marinate for 60 minutes in the refrigerator. After marinating, put the marinade and the uncooked shanks in a pan with tight fitting lid. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the pan in the preheated oven at 300°F, until cooked or about 2 hours, depending on size of the shanks until the pork meat is very well cooked and comes off the bones easily.
Recipe Provided by PORK.ORG
SPRING 2019 | 73
Recipe Provided by PORK.ORG
Chorizo & Cheese Empanadas w/Avocado Crema
1
Avocado (peeled, pitted, & quartered)
Set aside to cool slightly.
1 cup
Papalo or cilantro (roughly chopped) 3
Servings: 48
3 Tbsp Sour cream
INGREDIENTS
1/2
Lime
I Tbsp
Olive oil
Salt (to taste)
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, combine avocado, cilantro, sour cream, lime juice, and olive oil and process to puree, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Add salt to taste and set aside in the refrigerator.
1 lb
Prairie Creek® Ground Pork 80/20
2
Chile Peppers (Pasilla, Or Other Mild Dried Red Chiles*)
1
Chile Pepper (Guajillo, Or Other Mild Dried Red Chile*)
1
Onion (Cut Into Large Chunks)
4 Tbsp Cider Vinegar 2
Cloves Garlic
1 Tbsp Sweet Paprika 2 tsp
Dried Oregano (preferably Mexican)
2 tsp
Salt (plus more to taste)
½ tsp
Ground coriander
½ tsp
Ground cumin
½ tsp
Pepper
¼ tsp
Cinnamon
1 lb
Queso Blanco (or other mild, semi-hard cheese grated)
Empanada dough or shells
All-purpose flour, for the work surface
6 cups
Canola oil
74 | RESTAURANT INC
INSTRUCTIONS
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning occasionally, until blistered and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the chiIes to a bowl of hot water, cover and set aside for 15 minutes. Remove the chiles from the water and stem and seed them. Place the chiles, onion, vinegar, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor or the jar of a blender and process to puree, scraping down the bowl or jar as needed. Transfer the chile mixture to a large bowl and add the pork, paprika, oregano, salt, coriander, cumin, pepper, and cinnamon, mixing until well combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight. In a large skillet over medium heat, cook the pork mixture, breaking it up with a spoon or spatula, until no longer pink, 5 to 6 minutes.
Stir the cheese into the pork mixture. Arrange a 5- or 6-inch round of empanada dough or an empanada shell on a lightly floured work surface. Spoon I½ to 2 tablespoons of pork mixture on top, moisten the edges of the shell with water, and fold the shell over the filling, pressing it with a fork to seal. Repeat with the remaining shells and pork mixture, flouring the work surface as necessary. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Arrange two or three paper towel-lined baking sheets in the oven. Pour canola oil into a large, heavy saucepan or small stockpot to 1-inch deep and warm it to 350°F over medium heat. Cook the empanadas in batches, turning occasionally until golden, 3 minutes to 4 minutes. Transfer to the prepared baking sheets to keep warm. Serve the empanadas with the avocado crema on the side.
1 cup
Albondigas
1 Tbsp Ancho Powder
Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
2
Eggs (large beaten)
¼ cup
Yellow onion (minced)
Kosher Salt (coarse)
1 tsp
Oregano (fresh, minced)
¼ cup
Panko Breadcrumbs
Ground Cumin
1 cup
Corn Kernels
¼ cup
Rice (brown or white)
Cumin
½ tsp
1 tsp
2 ½ qts Pork Broth
2 cloves Garlic (minced) 1 tsp
Tomatoes (seeded, ½” dice)
Freshly Ground Black Pepper
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS
In mixing bowl, combine eggs, onion, garlic, cumin, salt, oregano, breadcrumbs and peppers. Mix well to combine. Add ground pork and chorizo, gently mix well to combine. Form into approximately 1” meatballs, set aside. In saute pan, add chilies and toast until soft and pliable. Add vinegar and just enough water to cover, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and reduce to half.
2
Poblano Chiles (each roasted, large, peeled, seeded, minced)
1 lb
Prairie Creek® Ground Pork 80/20
Papalo or Cilantro sprigs (chopped)
8 oz
Eagle Ridge® Pork Chorizo
Lime wedges
2
Ancho Chile Pepper (each, dried stemmed & seeded)
Avocado (diced)
1 tsp
Apple Cider Vinegar
Corn Tortillas (Crispy Julienne)
In a blender, add garlic and onion, puree until smooth. In sauce pot, heat oil and add garlic onion puree, tomatoes, chile powder, cumin, corn and rice. Saute and cook for approximately 1-2 minutes. Stir as needed. Add broth and bring to boil, reduce heat to low and cook approximately 30-40 minutes. Increase heat to medium high. Drop in meatballs and return soup to simmer. Cover and cook gently until meatballs and rice are cooked through. Stir gently as needed, do not boil and cook approximately 20 minutes.
Green Onions (Shaved)
Season to taste with salt, pepper and add lime juice.
Cotija Cheese ( crumbled)
Flour Tortillas (Warm)
3 cloves Garlic (minced) ¼ cup
Yellow Onion (minced)
Lime Juice (As needed, fresh to taste)
Marcona Almonds
Olives (Cured)
Sherry
Recipe Provided by PORK.ORG
SPRING 2019 | 75
[ADVERTORIAL]
Aye, Carnita! Mexican Comes To Play
78 | RESTAURANT INC
Carnitas Fritatas Servings: 2 2 Tbsp Canola Oil Medium Onion, Small Diced
2 cloves Garlic, Thinly Sliced 1
Small Poblano Pepper, roasted, skin removed, small diced
1
Lime, Juiced
3
Small Tomatillos, Husked, Rinsed Blended
8 oz
Cooked Pork Carnitas
1 Tbsp Fresh Cilantro, Chopped 4
BBQ Tater Tots Servings: 3-4
INGREDIENTS
1/2
nonfat salsa dressing.
Eggs, Beaten Together With
1 Tbsp Milk 1
Avocado, Pitted, Thinly Sliced
2 oz
Cotija Cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in skillet or cast iron pan on medium heat. Saute onion and garlic 4 to 6 minutes or until tender. Add roasted poblano, lime juice, tomatillos, carnitas and cilantro. Stir briefly to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper. Top with sliced avocado; sprinkle with cotija cheese. Garnish with additional cilantro and lime juice.
INGREDIENTS
2 lbs
Russet potatoes
1 tsp
salt
1 tsp
pepper
2 Tbsp green onion 1/2 cup Pulled Pork 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese 1/2 cup grated jack cheese Canola oil INSTRUCTIONS
Finely shred Russet potatoes while still hot. Stir in salt, pepper, green onion, smoked diced pork and grated cheddar jack cheese Heat 1/4-in oil in heavy pan. Form into 3 inch cylinders and drop in oil; fry until slightly golden. Drain on paper towels and serve warm with Alabama White BBQ Sauce.
Chipotle BBQ Pulled Pork Pizza Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
Pulled Pork Taco Salad
1
(12-inch) prepared pizza crust
Servings: 16
3 oz
chipotle bbq sauce
1 oz
diced green bell peppers
1 oz
diced onion
1 (16-oz.) jar reduced sodium thick ‘n chunky salsa
1 oz
Fully Cooked Bacon Bits
16 (8-inch)
whole wheat flour tortillas
3 oz
Smoked Pulled Pork
Butter flavored nonstick cooking spray
6 oz.
shredded cheddar & mozzarella cheese
2 lb.
Pulled Pork
INSTRUCTIONS
2 (1.25-oz.)
envelope salt-free taco seasoning mix
Heat impinger oven to 450°F.
1/2 cup
water
16 cups
chopped or shredded lettuce
Top pizza crust with bbq sauce. Arrange bell peppers, onion, bacon and pulled pork over sauce. Sprinkle with cheese.
4 large
tomatoes, chopped
Place in impinger oven for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden brown.
4
green bell peppers, chopped
2 lb.
shredded low fat Cheddar cheese
INGREDIENTS
1 (16-oz.)
container nonfat sour cream
INSTRUCTIONS
Combine sour cream and salsa in container; mix well. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Spray tortillas with nonstick cooking spray. Bake or microwave into taco bowl shape.
Recipes Provided by SMITHFIELD
Combine pork, taco seasoning mix and water; heat through. To make salad, fill one bowl with 1 cup lettuce, 2 oz. heated pork, 1/4 tomato, 1/4 bell pepper and 1 oz. cheese. Serve with 2 oz.
SPRING 2019 | 79
the little meats with the big time taste Carnitas, literally little meats, is tender and juicy pork that is slow cooked and slightly crispy and can be easily served in a variety of cuisines and applications.
Smithfield “Pork. Solved.� Mobile App Now Available! Download it today!
[ADVERTORIAL]
“Carnitas have seen an increase of 18.5% menu penetration over the past 4 years.” - Datassential
Exploding in popularity, carnitas are extremely versatile, so you can feature them on your menu throughout the day, at breakfast in omelettes and skillets, in salads and sandwiches at lunch, and in traditional meals like tacos, burritos and enchiladas for dinners or shareables.
Smithfield offers a range of carnitas for your needs, from fresh pork and pork belly so operators can prepare them any way they please, to heat-and-serve Curly’s carnitas with authentic Mexican flavorings that you just heat-and-serve. For more information on adding carnitas to your menu, contact your Reinhart representative.
©2019 Smithfield
Viva Vegan!
Traditional Latin Dishes Go Plant-Based
82 | RESTAURANT INC
Oyster Mushroom Ceviche
Tuscan White Bean Spread
Servings: 8
Servings: 16 oz
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
4 Tbsp fresh lime juice
1
15 oz. can of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
½ cup
diced tomato
1
garlic clove, peeled
½
serrano chile, seeded, minced (or to taste)
1/8 tsp
kosher salt
¼ cup
diced sweet onion
3 oz
Grated Sierra® Brand Cotija Cheese
¼ cup
cilantro, chopped
¼ cup
extra virgin olive oil
½ Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive oil
2
lemons, zest
10 oz
oyster mushrooms, stems removed (about 5 Cups)
2 tsp
minced rosemary
Salt (to taste)
8
tostadas (4 inch diameter)
½ cup
Supremo Mexican Sour Cream
1 cup
Sierra® Cotija Cheese grated
¼ cup
julienned radish
®
INSTRUCTIONS
In a non-reactive bowl, combine lime juice, tomato, chile, onion, cilantro, and olive oil. Slice mushrooms into ¼ inch thick slices. Add the mushrooms to the tomato mixture and mix well. Marinate for another 30 minutes.
INSTRUCTIONS
Place beans, garlic, salt, and 2 oz. of Cotija in the work bowl of a Food processor. Process for 30 seconds, then pour olive oil through the center in a slow and steady stream. Turn processor off once the olive oil is fully emulsified. Transfer the bean mixture to a bowl. Mix in the lemon zest, rosemary, and remaining Cotija. Bean spread can be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 3 days in an airtight container.
Spread 1 Tbsp. sour cream over each tostada. Top each with mushroom mixture, 2 Tbsp. Sierra® Cotija Cheese from, ½ Tbsp. Supremo® Mexican Sour Cream, and radishes. Recipes Provided by
Tuscan Sope
SCHREIBER FOODS
Servings: 6 INGREDIENTS
3 oz
cherry tomatoes, quartered
2 Tbsp diced red onion 2 Tbsp chopped parsley 1 tsp
lemon juice
3 oz
green beans, blanched, sliced lengthwise
6
Corn Sopes from V&V SUPREMO®
12 oz
Tuscan White Bean Spread (see recipe)
1 oz
Shaved Sierra® Brand Cotija Cheese
2 Tbsp. Supremo® Brand Mexican Sour Cream INSTRUCTIONS
Combine tomatoes, onions, parsley, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Mix well, then set aside. Fry sopes in oil heated to 360°F to 375°F for 3 minutes. Fill each sope with 2 Tbsp. Tuscan White Bean Dip. Place a generous spoonful of tomato mixture in the center. Drizzle 1 tsp. Sour Cream over tomatoes and beans. Top with 2 slices of crisscrossed green beans and a few pieces of shaved Cotija. Repeat with remaining sopes.
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trends in
Mexican Cuisine BY MARKON
Healthy, sustainable, produce-based ingredients and techniques dominate the modern food landscape in 2019. Mexican food will be no exception, with chefs focusing on clean, vegetable-heavy cuisine of the Baja region. Because it is located between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez, ingredients like mussels, clams, sea urchin, tuna and octopus are plentiful.
Popular Mexican chefs (think Javier Plascencia of Misión 19, Finca Altozano and Erizo; Miguel Angel Guerrero of La Querencia and El Almazara; and Jair Téllez of the lauded Laja) are using this fresh seafood in combination with the wine of Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe and many fresh produce items grown there, such as tomatoes, green onions, strawberries and cilantro. Baja, sometimes called Baja Med, combines Mexican recipes (mole, fish tacos and ceviche) with European and Asian ingredients like seaweed, hard cheeses, lemongrass, squid ink and olives.
SPRING 2019 | 85
Menu Focus
What’s New
Teach Them Well
Be on the lookout for ingredients with an authentic edge, like hand-ground blue corn tortillas, a variety of fresh ceviche, house-made mole pastes and sauces, bold citrus juice and zest, charred vegetables (think nopales, avocados and white/green onions), cauliflower and mushrooms as meat replacements, and long-simmered stews like birrias and guisados. Don’t be surprised to also see more adventurous items that support the nose-to-tail style of cooking (lengua, cockscombs and pigs’ ears) as well as insects such as fried crickets and escamol (agave ant larvae and pupae).
Dishes like ceviche and aguachile are booming. Fresh fish combined with tangy notes of citrus (be daring and use yuzu, blood orange, oro blancos) and other strong flavors (cilantro, papalo, guajillo chiles and shiso) are perfect for the increasing number of diners with more sophisticated palates.
For those customers not familiar with regional Mexican ingredients and/or cuisines, some education may be needed to coax them into ordering what might be their new favorite dish.
Tacos aren’t going away, instead they’re getting more and more authentic. Chefs are importing heirloom corn and hiring Latin grandmothers to make in-house tortillas, while salsas are moving beyond tomatoes over to tomatillos, prickly pears and charred chayote. Open-fire and grill cooking, especially charring and smoking continue to gain popularity—boosting complexity without added calories. Mole is being explored—the many different varieties instead of just black or brown pre-made pastes. Green moles made with pumpkin seeds, red moles made with vibrant chiles and yellow moles accented with annatto seeds; these are labor-intensive recipes in which chefs are investing time.
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∙∙ Oaxacan mole: Research the long history behind the infinite number of variations, be sure to know the main types, and explain the multitudes of ingredients. Your menu doesn’t need to be a history book, but some basic background and flavor comparisons can go a long way. ∙∙ Ceviche: Try reaching beyond the usual fish or shrimp and use Baja-rich ingredients such as abalone, octopus and mussels as well as contrasting spicy and sour flavors. ∙∙ Sea vegetables: Sea beans, a.k.a. Salicornia, are branch-like beans with intensely salty notes that work especially well with fish. Introducing different types of nutrient-dense seaweeds is a great way to lend brilliant colors and interesting textures. ∙∙ Guisados are comida casero, or home cooking. They are stewed or braised dishes made with meats, produce, spices and love (making you recall your—or your friend’s—grandma’s meals). Simple recipes that are longsimmered, guisados are usually served with a simple consomme.
Cauliflower Tacos A delicious vegetarian/vegan option that packs the earthy flavors of cumin-roasted cauliflower, pickled red onions and Oaxacan mole sauce. Servings: 4 (2 tacos each) INGREDIENTS
3 cup
Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) cauliflower florets
2 tbsp
olive oil
1 tsp
kosher salt
1 tsp
ground cumin, toasted
½ cup
Oaxacan brown mole sauce
½ cup
Markon First Crop red onions, pickled
½ cup
RSS cilantro, washed and trimmed
½ cup
Cotija cheese, crumbled
1 tbsp
sesame seeds
8 house-made corn tortillas, grilled or warmed INSTRUCTIONS
Toss cauliflower with oil, salt and cumin; roast until tender and starting to brown (approximately 20 minutes). Fill tortillas with equal parts roasted cauliflower. Drizzle each taco with mole sauce. Top each taco with equal parts pickled onions, cilantro, cheese and sesame seeds. Swordfish with Sea Beans Wow your customers with this meaty swordfish-sea bean combination plated in a geometric presentation. Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS
16 oz
swordfish steaks cut into 8 two-ounce cubes
¼ cup
sesame oil, split
¼ cup
low-sodium soy sauce
½ lb
sea beans, lightly sautéed
¼ lb
cranberry beans, lightly sautéed
¼ cup
Markon First Crop chives, snipped
Edible flowers for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS
Marinate swordfish cubes in two tablespoons sesame oil and soy sauce. Heat a large skillet; using marinade, sear fish on all sides. Reserve. Heat remaining two tablespoons sesame oil and saute sea beans and cranberry beans for one minute to two minutes. Cut beans to same length as fish cube height. Place a square, greased mold in the center of a serving plate. Arrange two fish cubes, chopped sea beans and cranberry bean tips inside mold (make sure it is tightly packed). Garnish with chives and edible flowers. Repeat three more times. Remove molds right before serving to preserve shape. n
Sopa de CALABACITAS con QUESO Yield: 24 servings
INGREDIENTS:
4 oz
1 gal ¼c 1c 2t 3c 3 lb
Serving Size: 8 ounces
Culinary Secrets® vegetable base Water, hot Olive oil Yellow onion, medium dice Garlic, minced Hatch chilies, chopped Processed cheese
2c 1 qt
1½ c
Corn kernels Zucchini, quartered, thinly sliced Yellow squash, grated Ancho chile powder, divided Crema
1½ c
Pepitas, toasted
1 qt 2T
DIRECTIONS:
1. To prepare broth, combine Culinary Secrets® vegetable base and hot water; stir and reserve. 2. Heat olive oil in large stock pot until oil is shimmering. Sauté onion and garlic until soft and fragrant. 3. Add broth to stock pot and bring up to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. 4. Add Hatch chilies, cheese, corn, zucchini, yellow squash and one tablespoon ancho chile powder to stock pot; continue simmering and cook until vegetables are soft and soup is creamy. 5. To make one portion, ladle 1 cup of soup in a serving bowl and drizzle with 1 tablespoon crema, then top with 1 tablespoon pepitas and a pinch of ancho chile powder.
SOPA de TORTILLA Yield: 24 servings
INGREDIENTS:
¼c
1 gal 16 oz 2T 1c 1T ½T
AZTECA
Serving Size: 8 ounces
Culinary Secrets® chicken base Water, hot Fire-roasted tomatoes, canned Olive oil Yellow onion, medium dice Garlic, minced Cumin, ground
3c 5c 3c 6c 3c 24 ea ½c
Black beans, canned Rotisserie chicken, shredded Avocado, medium dice Tortilla strips Cilantro, picked Lime wedges Cotija cheese, crumbled
DIRECTIONS:
1. To prepare broth, combine Culinary Secrets® chicken base, hot water and tomatoes; stir and reserve. 2. Heat olive oil in large stock pot until oil is shimmering. Sauté onion and garlic until soft and fragrant. 3. Remove pot from heat and stir in cumin. 4. Add broth to stock pot and bring up to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. 5. Add black beans and chicken to stock pot; bring to a boil. 6. To make one portion, ladle 1 cup of soup in a serving bowl with 2 tablespoons avocado, ¼ cup tortilla strips, 2 tablespoons cilantro, 1 lime wedge and 1 teaspoon Cotija cheese.
80
%
on QSR menus over the past four years.4 [ADVERTORIAL]
4,5
Datassential MenuTrends, U.S. menu penetration growth 2014-2018.
Po�ole ROJO deRES Yield: 24 servings
INGREDIENTS:
½c
Serving Size: 8 ounces
Culinary Secrets® beef base 1½ gal Water, hot 3 ea Bay leaf, dried 3 ea Guajillo chile, dried, seeded 24 ea Short ribs, bone-in ¼c Chipotle in adobo, puréed
1 qt ½c 6c 2T 24 ea 3c 6c
Hominy, canned Lime juice Avocado, medium dice Mexican oregano, dried Lime wedge Cilantro, picked Radish, thinly sliced
DIRECTIONS:
1. To prepare broth, combine Culinary Secrets® beef base, hot water, bay leaves and guajillo chilies in a stock pot; simmer for 15 minutes. Strain and reserve. 2. In large stock pot, combine broth and short ribs. Simmer 2 to 2.5 hours or until short ribs are tender, then remove short ribs from pot and reserve. 3. Add puréed chipotles; simmer for 15 minutes. 4. Add hominy and lime juice; bring back to a simmer for 15 more minutes. 5. To make one portion, ladle 1 cup of soup in a serving bowl with 1 piece short rib (approximately ½ pound), ¼ cup avocado, ¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano, 1 lime wedge, 1 tablespoon cilantro and ¼ cup radish.
on menus since 2014.5
Sopa DE
UP % 45
VERACRUZ 8 ounces 24 servings Yield:
INGREDIENTS:
Serving Size:
⁄3 c Culinary Secrets® clam base 1¼ gal Water, hot 15 oz Diced tomatoes, canned 2T Olive oil 4 ea Garlic cloves, smashed 4 ea Guajillo chile, whole 2 ea Bay leaf, dried 1c Red bell pepper, small dice 1c Yellow onion, small dice 1c Celery, small dice
1
DIRECTIONS:
1c 2c 2c 72 ea 72 ea 3 lb 30 oz 1c 3c 24 ea
Carrot, small dice Green olives, canned, sliced Dry white wine Littleneck clams Shrimp, peeled, deveined Squid, cut into pieces Whitefish, 1¼ oz portions Lime juice Cilantro, picked Lime wheels
1. To prepare broth, combine Culinary Secrets® clam base, hot water and tomatoes; stir and reserve. 2. Heat olive oil in large stock pot until oil is shimmering. Sauté garlic until soft and fragrant. 3. Add liquid, guajillo chilies and bay leaves to pot; bring to a boil. 4. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes; remove dried chilies and bay leaves. 5. Add bell pepper, onion, celery, carrot and olives to stock pot; cook until vegetables are tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. 6. Reduce heat to a simmer and add wine and clams; cook until clams begin to open. 7. Add shrimp and squid; cook 2 to 3 minutes or until shrimp is pink and squid is firm. 8. Add whitefish and cook 3 to 4 minutes or until fish is firm to the touch. 9. Turn off heat and add lime juice. 10. To make one portion, ladle 1 cup of soup in a serving bowl with the following: 3 littleneck clams, 3 shrimp, 2 ounces squid and 1 portion whitefish. Garnish with 2 tablespoons cilantro and 1 lime wheel.
Roasted Vegetable & Curry Couscous Taco Servings: 1 taco INGREDIENTS
1
6” Red Corn Tortilla
4.5 oz
Aromatic Couscous (see recipe below)
2 Tbsp Cilantro Yogurt Sauce (see recipe below) 1 Tbsp Roasted and Salted Cashews , chopped 2 Tbsp Dried Cranberries INSTRUCTIONS
Fry red corn tortilla in a 350°F fryer for approximately 30-40 seconds or until bubbling stops and desired color is achieved. Place couscous in center of tortilla, top with yogurt sauce, zucchini medley, cashews and cranberries and serve. Aromatic Couscous Servings: 12 INGREDIENTS
3 oz.
Vegetable or Olive Oil (1/3 cup)
40 oz.
Plain Couscous (6¾ cups)
4
small Onions , finely chopped
.4 oz
Curry Powder (4 Tbsp.)
3 qts
Water (4 Tbsp.)
INSTRUCTIONS
Heat half of the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add couscous to pot and saute until lightly golden. Remove and set aside . In same pot, heat remaining oil and saute onions until translucent. Add curry powder and continue to saute until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add water and simmer for 20 minutes, covered. Remove from heat and pour couscous into the pot, stir quickly. Cover and allow to steam for 10 minutes. Remove lid and fluff and separate couscous. Cilantro Yogurt Sauce Servings: 12 INGREDIENTS
2 1/4 oz Cilantro Leaves (7 cups) 1 1/2 oz Fresh Lime Juice (4 Tbsp) 1 1/2 tsp Salt 12 oz
Whole Milk Yogurt or Labne (Middle Eastern Yogurt) (1½ cups)
8 oz
Sour Cream (1 cup)
2 cloves Garlic, minced INSTRUCTIONS
Roughly chop cilantro. Place in food processor or blender with lime juice and salt. Puree. Add remaining ingredients and puree until smooth.
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Spinach Florentine Stuffed Breakfast Tacos Servings: 5 tacos INGREDIENTS
5 5 2 1/2 oz 1 tsp 5 each 3 oz 2 oz
6” Heat Pressed San Pablo® Flour Tortillas 6” Red Corn Tortillas Creamed Spinach, prepared Liquid Butter Whole Eggs, large Canadian Bacon, diced Swiss Cheese , shredded Salt and Black Pepper to taste
INSTRUCTIONS
Bring tortillas to room temperature. Place red corn tortillas in taco frying basket. Place in fryer until bubbling subsides. Remove red corn tortillas from fryer and drain. Hold warm for service. Heat 1 tsp. of liquid butter in medium size nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Add Canadian bacon and cook until heated throughout. Add eggs and scramble. Add cheese to eggs and remove from heat. Heat flour tortilla and spread each tortilla with 1 Tbsp. of creamed spinach. Place red taco shell in the center of each tortilla. Creamed spinach tortilla should stick to the red taco. Fill each taco shell with 2 oz. of scrambled eggs with Canadian bacon. Serve immediately. Recipes Provided by MISSION FOODS
Mushroom Poblano Empanadas INGREDIENTS
12 8” Fry-Ready Tortilla 2 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil 5 oz. Red Onions, diced 9 oz. shiitake Mushrooms, diced 9 oz. Portabella Mushrooms, diced 5 oz. Poblano Peppers, roasted, diced 9 oz. Corn , roasted off the cob 1/4 cup Flour 3 tsp. Cumin, ground 11/2 tsp. Coriander, ground 1 tsp. Smoked Paprika, ground 2 ½ cups Vegetable broth 8 oz. Oaxaca Cheese Egg Wash, as needed Cumin-Cilantro Crema INSTRUCTIONS
Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add onions and saute for 3-5 minutes. Add mushrooms and saute for 5-7 minutes or until the mushrooms start to give off their moisture. Add the poblano peppers and corn. In a separate bowl, combine flour, cumin, coriander, and smoked paprika. Mix well until the flour mixture has coated all the ingredients. Add the vegetable broth and heat until a thickened gravy has formed. Remove from heat, add Oaxaca cheese, and store refrigerated. Place 4 oz. of the empanada filling on one half of the tortilla and brush the edges with egg wash. Fold the empty half of the tortilla over, forming an empanada. Using a fork, gently crimp the edges. Pre-heat fryer to 350°F. Place empanada in the fryer and fry for 3-4 minutes or until the outside is crispy and the inside is hot. Serve with¼ cup of Cumin-Cilantro Crema.
SPRING 2019 | 91
Beef Torta
Chili Carne
Servings: 1
Servings: 1
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
SUB RECIPE: BEEF (10 lbs meat) 10 lbs Beef Lifter Meat, Boneless, Slice 2.5mm 12 1/2 lbs Mild Mexicana Salsa 1 3/4 lb Jumbo Yellow Onion 5 oz Garlic, Chopped In Oil
8 oz 4 oz 2 oz 2 oz
TORTA INGREDIENTS 1 Roll Telera, 3 Ounce Slice, Thaw & Serve 2 oz Heavy Duty Mayonnaise 2 1/2 oz Jalapeno Pepper Whole 1 oz Lettuce, Shredded 1/4”, Fresh 2 oz Tomato, Extra Large 3 oz Refried Bean Mexicana 2 oz Cheese Cotlja INSTRUCTIONS
For the beef: Heat oil in a pot and add julienne cut onions. Once the onions begin to sweat, add garlic & meat and cook until browned. Once the meat is browned add salsa and simmer for 45 minutes. Torta: Grill the Telera roll on a hot flat top. Once toasted spread Mayonnaise on bottom bun following place your meat on the roll. Now, in this order place the lettuce, tomatoes, onion, cheese, jalapeños cut into strips on top of the meat. Last, spread refried beans on the top of Telera roll and cut the torta in half. Repeat process for more tortas. Verde Taco Servings: 2 tacos INGREDIENTS
SUB-RECIPE: BEEF VERDE 10 lbs Tenderloin Beef Tip, Diced 15 ½ lbs Green Salsa Verde, Medium 3 lbs Jumbo Yellow Onion TACOS INGREDIENTS 5 oz Chopped Garlic In Oil 4 ea Corn Tortilla, White, 4.5” Mini Street Taco 1 oz Jumbo Yellow Onion 1 oz Radish 1 /4 oz Cilantro 1 oz Cotija Cheese 1/4 ea Lime Fresh INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare corn tortillas on a hot oiled flat top. Stack two corn tortillas on top of each other and place 2 oz of beef in the center of the sells. Top with cotija cheese, diced onion and radish. Finish with cilantro and a lime wedge. Repeat until all are filled.
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Flank Steak 16 Ounce Boneless Choice Mashed Potato, Redskin, Roasted w/Garlic Wholly Guacamole Classic Pouch Chimichurri Paste
SUB-RECIPE: CHILMOLE 1/2 tsp Ancho Chile Pepper Spice, Powder Dry 1 tsp Guajillo Chile Spice, Dried Powder Dry 1/8 oz Chipotle Seasoning Powder 1/8 oz Black Pepper 1/8 oz Garlic Powder 2 Tbsp Cocoa Powder, Dutch Brown 1/4 oz Ground Coriander 4 oz Brown Sugar, Light 1/8 oz Cloves, Ground INSTRUCTIONS
Mix all seasonings in a bowl to prepare a rub, and season flank steak. Place the flank steak on a hot grill and prepare to medium rare and set to the side to rest. Combine mashed potatoes and guacamole, place in the center of the plate. After letting the flank steak rest for roughly 10-15 minutes against the grain in strips. Place the sliced flank steak on top of the mashed potatoes and top with Chimichurri sauce, and serve with elote com on the cob. Chile Mole Steak Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
6 oz 3 oz 5 oz 1/4 ea 3 oz
Skirt Outside 6 Ounce Steak Boneless Paste Chimichurri Frozen Yucca Fresh Lime Fresh Peppers Jalapeno Chile Fresh
SUB-RECIPE: CHIMOLE (SAME RECIPE AS ABOVE) INSTRUCTIONS
Evenly rub the skirt steak with Chilmole. Place the skirt steak on a hot grill preparing it to rare or medium rare. Serve with yucca fries, drizzled with Chimichurri Sauce. Grill two jalapeños and place alongside skirt steak garnished with a lime wedge.
Steak, mmmm Liven Up With Latin Twists
Chef Justin VanHorn La Crosse Meat Department
SPRING 2019 | 93
MEAT The Butcher Inside Skirt Outside Skirt Short Ribs Flank Steak
[ADVERTORIAL]
Outside Skirt Steak Beef Plate, Outside Skirt NAMP# 121C
Inside Skirt Steak
Flank Steak
Beef Plate, Inside Skirt NAMP# 121D
Beef Flank, Flank Steak NAMP# 193
*Images courtesy of National Cattlemen’s Beef Association
These three thin cuts provide great flavor! All three cuts are suggested to be cut against the grain to create the best eating experience. The quality of an eating experience with beef rests on multiple factors such as the age of product, preparation, and grade. is the difference between NAMP # 121D Beef Q: What Plate, Inside Skirt and NAMP # 121C Beef Plate,
Q:
The Inside Skirt is separated from the Beef Short Plate. What other cuts come from the beef short plate?
Outside Skirt NAMP # 121C is the Boneless A: The Diaphragm of the animal, which is removed from the
A:
Flavorful ones like the short ribs! The Short Plate is directly under the Rib primal which has a higher fat content, and the short plate provides some of the same great beefy flavors. Also, right next to the short plate is the Flank! Another excellent cut for marinating, thinly slicing, and cooking on high heat or braised.
Q:
What are the best preparation and cooking methods for skirt steaks and flanks?
A:
All are suggested to be cut against the grain to create the best eating experience. Slicing these cuts thin and searing over high heat makes for a great dish. These three items are frequently used for fajitas, tacos, and many other Hispanic/Mexican dishes.
Outside Skirt?
short plate and is trimmed close to lean. The Inside skirt will consist of the abdominal muscle only.
product specifications should one consider Q: What when ordering skirt steak? are multiple things to take into consideration A: There when ordering skirts such as deciding on Inside or Outside, and the grade of the product.
specifications should be thought of when Q: What ordering skirts? ordering skirts make sure you specify if you A: When want them peeled or non-peeled. Non-peeled skirts
could make a signification difference in cost because of yield loss.
What are namP numbers?
Cooking methods
North American Meat Processor Numbers are used to classify cuts of meat so they can be easily identified. Each primal, and or cut, has certain spec requirements listed in The Meat Buyer’s Guide.
Food safety tip
All Eagle Ridge processors cut to NAMP specifications to keep consistency across Reinhart Country.
A good reference point is to keep the internal temperature below 44.0 degrees F.
Grill
Pan-Fry
Broil
Braising
Monitor your stored meat’s internal temperature
Say ‘Si’ to Seafood Modernize With Premium Latin Ingredients
Recipes Provided by BEAVER STREET
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Spicy Yellowfin Tuna and Guacamole Tostadas Servings: 4 tostadas INGREDIENTS
2 6 oz 1 Tbsp 3 Tbsp garnish 4
yellowfin tuna steaks toasted sesame oil black and white sesame seeds, plus more for salt and pepper to taste sriracha mayo to taste tostada shells
FOR GUACAMOLE 2 ripe avocados 1 jalapeño pepper, minced 1 Tbsp red onion, minced 2 Tbsp fresh cilantro, minced 2 Tbsp ponzu sauce 1 cup edamame, steamed and shelled salt and pepper to taste INSTRUCTIONS
For the tuna, add the toasted sesame oil to a large non-stick skillet, and heat over medium-high heat. Season both sides of the tuna steaks with salt and pepper to taste, and then coat both sides in the sesame seeds. Sear tuna just until rare or mediumrare, about 1-2 minutes on each side. Transfer the tuna to a cutting board, cut the tuna into 1 inch cubes and set aside. For the guacamole, remove the skins and pits from the avocado, place in a large bowl and mash. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the jalapeno pepper, red onion, cilantro, ponzu sauce and edamame until combined. To serve, divide guacamole evenly amongst the tostada shells, and then top with the tuna, divided evenly amongst the tostada shells. Drizzle the sriracha mayo atop the tostadas and garnish with additional sesame seeds.
Sweet & Spicy Power Bowl with Yellowfin Tuna & Grape Salsa Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS
4 6 oz 3 Tbsp 1 cup 2 ½ cup 1 cup 2
yellowfin tuna steaks olive oil, divided salt and pepper to taste chipotle seasoning to taste uncooked quinoa sweet potatoes, diced onion, diced canned black beans, drained and rinsed avocados, sliced
FOR GRAPE SALSA 1 cup red grapes, coarsely chopped 1 cup green grapes, coarsely chopped ½ cup green onions, chopped ½ cup sliced almonds 2 tsp jalapeño, minced 2 Tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tsp salt 2 dashes hot pepper seasoning INSTRUCTIONS
For the grape salsa, combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Let stand at least one hour before serving. Cook quinoa according to package directions, and set aside until ready to use. For the tuna, add 2 tbsp of olive oil to a large non-stick skillet, and heat over medium-high heat. Season both sides of the tuna steaks with salt, pepper and chipotle seasoning to taste. Sear tuna just until rare or medium-rare, about 1-2 minutes on each side. Transfer the tuna to a cutting board, cut the tuna into 1 inch cubes and set aside. Add the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil to a large non-stick skillet, and heat over medium heat. Cook sweet potato and onion, adding salt, pepper and chipotle seasoning to taste. Cook on medium heat until tender, about 10-15 minutes. To assemble the bowls, distribute quinoa, tuna, grape salsa, potatoes and onions, and sliced avocado in bowls.
SPRING 2019 | 97
BEHIND THE BAR
POUR IT ON Ari Bendersky
Every region in Mexico has its own specialties and ingredients that are versatile and can pair with a range of drinks, not just a margarita or Corona. We asked two beverage experts—agave enthusiast and bar manager Drake Perez at Lucha Cantina in Rockford, Ill., and award-winning beverage director/partner Jay Schroeder at Chicago’s Quiote and Todos Santos—to show us just how versatile drinking alongside Mexican cuisine can be.
JAY SCHROEDER Award-winning beverage director/partner at Chicago’s Quiote & Todos Santos A glass of white wine from Valle de Guadalupe like a sauvignon blanc with higher acid or bubbles to cut through that richness.
An agave wheat beer—something chill, wheaty—will stay out of the way of the habanero. That’s nice, light, crisp and food friendly.
Sotol, which just came into the U.S. market. (It offers) mossy, deep soil notes, but also bright and green that would bounce off guacamole.
I’d do a chill Mexican wine, Casa Magoni chardonnay-vermentino blend with medium acid. Mole needs to shine and the drink would play a soft, complementary role.
Real Minero Largo mezcal has a lot of green notes, but it gives depth and contrast to go with the dish. You’re fighting the white onion that dominates the palate and this drink has a big personality. A classic mezcal margarita will fight that onion well.
DRAKE PEREZ Agave enthusiast & bar manager at Lucha Cantina in Rockford, Ill.
CHILE RELLENO
A Cerveza amber ale with nice roasted malt and the bubbles will cut through the fat, but won’t overpower the sauce and clean your palate after every bite.
COCHINITA PIBIL
I went with a pale ale. This dish is rich with the pork and the peppers, and you want something to complement the heat. The citrus hops will pair nicely with all the citrus juices in which they marinate the pork.
(green chiles stuffed with cheese, dipped in a special batter and fried in canola oil; originates from city of Puebla)
(a traditional Yucatán Peninsula dish of slow-roasted pork braised in citrus and achiote)
GUACAMOLE
with serrano peppers, red onion, fresh tomatoes and cilantro
CHICKEN EN MOLE POBLANO
CHICKEN ENCHILADAS
verdes with crema, white onion and queso fresco
Cerveza Modelo. It’s nice, crisp, clean and malty. It’s something that will allow the guacamole to stand on its own, while it’ll also cut the heat from the serrano and the fat from the guacamole.
The dish is rich and complex, and I wanted a drink that was also like that. A cocktail I created called the Spanish Harlem has Herradura añejo, Carpano Antica, Aztec chocolate bitters and orange oils expressed over top. The chocolate and orange go well with the chocolate of the mole.
I’d do Mezcal Vago Elote. It’s distilled with corn, and it adds a creamy mouthfeel and you’re getting the inherent sweetness from the corn. That flavor with the crema, corn tortillas and queso fresco will pair amazingly well. n
SPRING 2019 | 99
BEHIND THE BAR
SOTOL IS THE MEXICAN SPIRIT YOU LIKELY HAVEN’T HEARD OF—YET Ximena N. Larkin Tequila is synonymous with Mexico, and mezcal is on the rise. Spirits such as sotol, pox and tecuí, however, are gaining in popularity among people in the know. Here’s what you need to know about these trending spirits.
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“For a long time, it was persecuted by the Mexican government. People claim that the Mexican government was doing that to protect large producers of tequila and cognac. It’s making a comeback because people, especially bartenders and a new generation of drinkers, like to sip on something authentic, artisanal and different than they have tried before. A recent shortage of agave helped as well.”
- Marko Milunovic
Beverage Director La Mejikãna in Chicago
article continues on next page
SPRING 2019 | 101
Sotol isn’t the only Mexican spirit seeing a surge in popularity. Because of an interest in small-batch, artisanal products, these regional liquors are catching the interest of consumers looking for a more homegrown product. Below is a cheat sheet of additional rising spirits south of the border.
Chandra: This type of rum is made of distilled sugar cane and can only be produced in the state of Michoacán, within the city of Uruapan. It is still not well known in the United States, but it is gaining popularity. It faced extinction when the main distilleries closed, yet saw a revival through artisanal makers. Marko Milunovic, beverage director at La Mejikãna in Chicago, suggests using it as a mixer in cocktails like the classic daiquiri. He says it pairs best with seafood.
Pox: The spirit native to Chiapas was used in Mayan ritual ceremonies to talk to the dead. The grain alcohol has a smooth, smoky corn flavor. Katsuji Tanabe, executive chef of Barrio in Chicago, recommends drinking it straight or over ice with a splash of water.
Pulque: A white, foamy concoction that looks like thin milk is the best way to describe this regional beverage found in the states east of Mexico City. The drink is the result of a fermented maguey, better known as the agave plant. Its popularity was in decline for some time, but has since made a comeback. It spoils quickly, so the best way of getting a high-quality product is to consume it while in Mexico.
Tecuií: Served warm, this boozy beverage is made from sugar cane and oranges. Its name is a Nahuatl word that translates to “the one that moves or makes the heart happy.” It is most commonly consumed during the holiday season, which begins with Dia de los Muertos and ends with the New Year. Its flavor can be enhanced by adding pineapple, apples, cinnamon, guavas, nuts and sugar cane.
Tepache: Made from fermented pineapple and sweetened with piloncillo, this fruity, boozy drink has a low ABV percentage. That means it’s easy to sip on its own or mix it with a stronger liquor like mezcal or bourbon. Pair it with al pastor tacos.
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Once a working-class spirit, sotol is making its way to high-end bars. The agave-based spirit is a cousin to tequila (but can’t call itself such because it is not made in Jalisco, nor does it contain blue agave, which would allow it to be classified as such) and mezcal. “It is known as aguardiente,” says Hugo Cesar Damian Ramirez, beverage manager and head mixologist at Royal Hideaway Playacar in Quintana Roo. It’s a term that translates to “fire water,” which is aptly given to liquors that cause a burning sensation on their way down. The drink is seeing a rise in popularity, thanks to interest in small-batch, artisanal products. “For a long time, it was persecuted by the Mexican government,” says Marko Milunovic, beverage director at La Mejikãna in Chicago. “People claim that the Mexican government was doing that to protect large producers of tequila and cognac. It’s making a comeback because people, especially bartenders and a new generation of drinkers, like to sip on something authentic, artisanal and different than they have tried before. A recent shortage of agave helped as well.” Up until recently, sotol was a regional beverage with limited distribution. Today, interest in the product has led to a wider availability, including in the U.S. market. The process of making sotol includes harvesting the hearts of the desert spoon plant—which takes 20 years to grow—and cooking it in underground lava rock-lined ovens. Only spirits made in the deserts of Durango, Coahuila and Chihuahua can carry the name of “sotol.” Ramirez recommends consuming the beverage straight or paired with an orange slice dipped in salt containing crushed agave worms. If you prefer to mix it with a chaser, the Mexican native recommends acidic juices to bring out the spirit’s flavor: Pineapple, orange, passion fruit and tangerine are the ideal companions. Milunovic says carne asada tacos or steak pair best. But if you’re not much of a meat lover, then try it with creamy goat cheese or manchego cheese. “The ones infused with fruits and spices are really tasty,” he adds. n
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BEHIND THE BAR
TALKING TEQUILA Briana Rupel With more than 100 tequila varieties on his shelves at SoKno Taco in Knoxville, Tenn., general manager Ryan Steffe has heard all the excuses people give for abstaining from Mexico’s national drink. “(Tequila has) been around forever, but people do have misconceptions,” he says. But how do we put our patrons at ease enough to let go of their preconceived notions and give tequila another try? Steffe offers five excellent tips that just might turn your naysayers into big fans of this festive spirit.
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Embrace the spectrum. Whether you carry five or 50, offer a wide range in order to appeal to all tastes. If all you stock is a silver, you’re going to miss the opportunity to show your favorite bourbon-sipping regular that the oaky smoothness of añejo is right up her alley. Offer a taste of coffee tequila the next time someone asks for an after-dinner drink recommendation. Surprise your guests by showing them a variety they didn’t know existed.
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Invest in your staff. Your employees are the ones your guests are putting their trust in. Nobody wants a lecture, but your staff should absolutely be an expert on their favorite tequilas and a few of their favorite cocktails. “Our staff is allowed to sample everything,” Steffe reveals. “If they know what a (tequila-based) cocktail or tequila tastes like, they know how to describe it better to the customer.”
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Create inventive cocktails The last thing you want to offer guests who shudder at the word “tequila” is a taste straight from the bottle. Tequila cocktails that incorporate other flavors give a subtle, palatable introduction. “Our cocktails are the biggest gateway to get people to really understand tequila,” says Steffe. Of SoKno Taco’s nearly 30 tequila cocktails, some of the bigger sellers are tequila riffs on well-known drinks. Think Mayan Mule or The Bushwacker, a “Wendy’s Frosty with tequila,” he says.
Be smart with pricing. Be mindful of your clientele, and order products that allow you to keep prices reasonable. It’s a lot less risky for guests to spend $8 on something new as opposed to $12. “We make our living (at this establishment), but we pass the savings onto the customer,” Steffe explains. If they’re really wavering, treat them to your favorite. The cost of a drink is worth providing an experience that will make them loyal for life.
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Be inventive. Offer a reposado flight one month, then a specialty tequila cocktail party the next. Host a tasting that pairs your favorites with tiny bites. Steffe throws the “SoKno Social” every month, a charity event that introduces the public to the new menu. Find fun ways to discover what makes each individual’s taste buds tickle, and you’ll have guests finally excited about tequila and coming back for more. n
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BEHIND THE BAR
LUCHA CANTINA’S
The Natural
LUCHA CANTINA’S POCA MADRE’S
Charlie & The Chopuline Factory
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Abuelita’s Medicine
sublime SIPS Victor Ozols
MEXICAN COCKTAILS FINALLY GET RESPECT AS BARTENDERS KICK UP THE QUALITY Ask people to describe their first experiences with Mexican cocktails and you’ll probably hear stories about neon-green margaritas served in massive, salt-rimmed glasses—if not souvenir plastic cups. As long as beaches exist, those crowd-pleasing cocktails will endure, but discerning drinkers are now seeking more refined options when they want to imbibe south-of-the-border style. Bartenders across the country are answering the call with recipes that use premium spirits, upscale mixers and a flair for the dramatic. Drake Perez, the head bartender at Lucha Cantina in Rockford, Ill., believes the secret to elevated cocktails lies not only in having quality ingredients, but knowing what combinations yield the most harmonious flavors. “I take whatever tequila I want to use and taste its different flavor profiles and match it with locally sourced or seasonal ingredients so we can create the best, freshest cocktail possible,” he says. As for how to select the most complementary produce, Perez lets geography be the guide. “With agave spirits, if it grows together it goes together, so we look at fresh tropical produce like lime, lemon, mango and passionfruit,” he explains. “I don’t like to use anything that’s preserved or canned.” These combinations, along with some family inspiration, yield cocktails like Abuelita’s Medicine. “This one stems from growing up with my grandma—you take a shot of tequila, some lemon and a little bit of honey when you’re not feeling well,” he explains. “It’s Herradura silver tequila, Xicaru mezcal, mango nectar, fresh lime juice
and a honey habanero syrup with a Tajin rim. It’s delightfully sweet and spicy, and it won people’s choice best cocktail in a Herradura cocktail competition two years ago.” For those looking for sunshine in a glass, the restaurant has an artisanal version of the traditional margarita it calls the Natural. “It’s made with Herradura reposado tequila, Luxardo Triplum triple sec, fresh lime juice and agave nectar,” according to Perez. “It’s amazingly fresh, slightly tart and leaves you wanting more.” Washington, D.C.’s recently opened Poca Madre has a cutting-edge, mezcal-focused cocktail program that’s informed by research trips to Mexico. “The focus is on the history, taste, production and style of mezcal and the love that goes into it,” says bar manager Amin Seddiq. “We import a ton of ingredients from Mexico, such as our hibiscus and our sal de gusano.” Sal de gusano is worm salt, a chili salt made with a type of moth larva that lives in agave plants, and it tops every one of Poca Madre’s house margaritas. If that’s not buggy enough, there’s the Charlie and the Chapuline Factory. “That’s our grasshopper cocktail,” Seddiq explains. “We get grasshoppers from Mexico and cook them in a peanut sauce with lemongrass, then we use a fresh farm egg. It’s basically a pisco sour but with mezcal, grasshoppers and peanuts.” These unique cocktails represent just how far Mexican cocktails have come—and how far they can go. n
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BEHIND THE BAR
DIY BITTERS FOR YOUR BAR Briana Rupel
Our resident bartender challenges herself to make one of mixology’s essential ingredients
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There are times we have to realize we can’t spread ourselves too thin by being stuck in the lab instead of behind the bar. These are the times we open our wallets and support the experts of the bitters craft. Fortunately, there are bitters we can feel confident attempting on our own. So when should you DIY and when should you buy?
Buy Corazón (Bittercube). This intoxicating blend of cocoa, coffee and six varieties of chili pepper is one of my go-to bitters, and my favorite in Bittercube’s lineup. I’ve used this in coffee cocktails, micheladas, even in my homemade veggie chili. It adds a depth that you didn’t even know was missing. Trust me, and treat yourself to a bottle. Don’t even try to DIY this. You can’t.
DIY Orange Bitters. Orange is one of those versatile bitters that can find a home in almost any cocktail, whether it be a margarita, Sazerac, Old Fashioned, even a good ol’ Arnold Palmer. Luckily, it’s also a great candidate for your first batch because it’s pretty straight-forward. The most important thing to note is to use a high-proof spirit or you won’t extract the flavors you want. Once you’ve nailed the base, split up the batch and try adding a complementary flavor to build off the orange. (Try cocoa nib or coriander!) • 1 cup 130 proof to 190 proof neutral grain spirit (vodka works fine) • Peels and pith from one whole orange • Clean glass jar with lid Infuse for about 10 days, shaking daily. Strain when you feel ready.
DIY Coriander Tincture. I love coriander because its flavor is so multi-faceted. On one hand, it’s earthy, on the other, it’s got underlying notes of citrus. This makes it an awesome candidate to play around with in cocktails. Grab lots of clean glass jars for experimenting. In one, use the seeds as is. In another, try toasting the seeds first. In another, crush the seeds. Which do you prefer? From there, you can move on to infusing complementary flavors. Now you’re on your way to creating your own bitters recipe.
“Rather than making something from scratch, take something that’s already been built and add more layers to that.”
Having an empty shaker and a full bar at my mercy always transports me to my childhood backyard, old pickle bucket in hand, scooping dirt, plucking berries and snapping sticks into tiny pieces. I'd top my mirepoix with a cold swig from the garden hose and haul the soup to the fort where I'd share with my brother and our imaginary fellow warriors. This isn't much different from how I made my first batch of bitters. Bartenders and novices alike know Angostura and Peychaud's. Since the 1800s, they've been revered for their medicinal purposes and depth they lend to cocktails. But bartenders are also a creative lot, so it's no wonder that within the last decade the bitters market has become saturated with flavors we once never imagined. That's how Bittercube started, when co-founders Nick Kosevich and Ira Koplowitz (who are also professional bartenders) began experimenting simply out of necessity because they wanted offbeat flavors. "Bittercube is based on a need to produce unique things," explains Kosevich. Even though their business kicks out hundreds of gallons of handcrafted bitters per month, Kosevich is still supportive of bartenders experimenting behind the bar. "Creative exploration is still super important," he asserts. "(But) the most important thing is learning about botanicals. There's a long process of just learning how to extract different botanicals in high-proof spirits." Maybe that was my downfall. I peeled oranges, diced pears, grated ginger and added them to my bucket with some scoops of bittering agents I couldn't pronounce. Without isolating each ingredient, however, I really had no good grasp of who was bringing what to the table. After agitating every day for a month, the resulting concoction was indeed pear-forward, but nowhere close to being potent and flavorful enough for a dropper full to do any good in a cocktail. It wasn't a total loss; my co-workers and I passed around a goblet of the thick nectar to warm our broken hearts and feed ourselves boozy pears as an after-bar dessert. Kosevich warns that making your own bitters can be expensive, time consuming and inconsistent. "For me, the first place to start is making tinctures," he says. "Take high-proof spirits, infuse them with coriander, then maybe caraway, and see what those flavors are doing individually before you start to combine them." Another more approachable place to start your experimenting is to infuse a bottle of bitters you already have. "Rather than making something from scratch," Kosevich suggests, "take something that's already been built and add more layers to that." Getting creative behind the bar is one of the most fun aspects of the job, and concocting your own bitters absolutely sets your bar apart. Nobody else will be able to offer what you have, and you are in complete control of your flavors and aromatics. But you must be patient with your creations and allow for plenty of trial and error. The experts are always there when you need them. n
Nick Kosevich
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BEHIND THE BAR
CRYSTAL CLEAR Victor Ozols
Premium cocktails are looking better than ever in glassware that rises to the occasion The finest spirits. Artisanal mixers. Fresh, organic fruits. House-made bitters. In the hands of a talented bartender, these are all the ingredients for an unforgettable cocktail. In the wrong glass, however, it’ll look no different than a bottom-of-the-well happy hour special at the corner dive. So, as consumers grow thirstier for elegant, upscale cocktails, bar and restaurant operators are giving more thought than ever to their glassware to differentiate the experience—and justify the prices.
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“From a restaurant perspective, it’s merchandising for the drink,” says Jerry Moore, senior category manager for Libbey Inc., which manufactures and distributes glassware under its brand names and also distributes Spiegelau glassware to the U.S. market. “People might not think about it consciously, but glassware is part of a pretty intimate experience—it’s in your hand, it’s touching your mouth,” he says. “The right cocktail glass gets the message across that you’re dealing with a premium product.” According to Moore, upscale glassware improves the appearance of the drink not only with its engaging design, but by the clarity of the glass itself, which provides a better window to the product. Yet, beyond its superficial charms, the proper glass can elevate the drink itself by concentrating its aromas, providing the right space for different types of ice and keeping it at the desired temperature for longer. (For some of the more experimental bartenders, such as Poca Madre’s Amin Seddiq, glasses are even chosen for their ability to hold such unique ingredients as smoke and liquid nitrogen.) In the realm of Mexican cocktails, moving upscale means bidding adios to one of the category’s most iconic glasses. “The standard ‘upside-down sombrero’ stemmed margarita glass is trending downward,” Moore continues. In its place, operators are choosing modern-yet-sophisticated options like the company’s renaissance coupe and its newly released stemless cocktail glass. These glasses not only improve on both looks and function, they’re also smaller, helping to improve margins while underscoring the value of the drink. “If I get a margarita in an enormous glass, what does that say to me about the quality?” Moore asks. “The trend right now is toward smaller glassware, and in almost every case the profit per serving goes up the smaller the glass.” These days, upscale glasses aren’t just for the fanciest spots in town, either. “The bar is lowering for restaurants using premium glassware,” Moore says. “Now you’re even seeing brewpubs with really nice glasses.” n
“The right cocktail glass gets the message across that you’re dealing with a premium product.”
- Jerry Moore
Senior Category Manager Libbey Glassware
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BEHIND THE BAR
WINES SPROUTING FROM SOUTH OF THE BORDER Ari Bendersky
Mexican winemakers are offering robust, expressive wines that pair with a variety of food. Sure, you’re buying wine from California, France and Italy, but did you know you can get quality offerings south of the border? Mexico has a vibrant wine region and it’s continuing to blossom. 112 | RESTAURANT INC
While Mexico’s modern wine-growing business dates back to the 1970s, the country claims the oldest winery in North America, Casa Madero, where Spaniards first planted vines in 1597. The vast majority of wine production happens in Baja California, mostly in the Valle de Guadalupe. Mexico’s arid climate and proximity to cool ocean breezes offer optimal growing conditions for mostly French, Spanish and Italian varietals, but also indigenous stock. Many restaurants across the United States have started adding Mexican wines for their diversity and compatibility with a range of food. “It’s an exciting time right now for Mexican wines,” says Jill Gubesch, wine director for Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill, Topolobampo and Leña Brava, all in Chicago. “Both the quality and consistency have improved greatly.” There are more than 150 wineries in Mexico today—including Bichi, Bodegas Henri Lurton, Adobe Guadalupe and Casa Magoni—vs. 15 in 2001. They produce grenache, syrah, nebbiolo, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, chenin blanc, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, palomino and more. These varietals can differ in characteristic from the same grapes grown elsewhere, Gubesch says. “They have a signature savory quality that comes across as a slight salinity on the finish,” she adds. “They are typically more fruit forward, lower in tannin and sometimes light-bodied as well.”
Obviously, these wines work well with Mexican fare, especially from Baja, which was influenced by Japanese, Chinese and Mediterranean culture, but it goes beyond that. “I’m excited to see these wines pair with Southeast Asian food,” says Maria Bastasch, wine director of Compass Rose and Maydan, both in Washington, D.C. “You get spicy flavors and some of the cool rosés and pet-nats [pétillant-naturel, or naturally sparkling wines] and skin-contact whites work really well with that food. And food from North Africa and the Middle East—enjoying a Mexican pet-nat rosé with an Aleppo kabob would be incredible.” Bastasch, along with restaurant owner Rose Previte, visited Baja last spring to research wine to craft a South of the Border wine list at Compass Rose (along with Peruvian and Bolivian wines). She enjoys exposing diners to wines from lesser-known regions to help increase awareness. “Seeing an array of countries on a wine list is important so that we become more comfortable understanding there aren’t a narrow few countries that give us the ‘good’ wine,” Bastasch adds. “Mexico is not well enough represented.” Isn’t it time to change that mindset and support our neighbor to the south? n
“Seeing an array of countries on a wine list is important so that we become more comfortable understanding there aren’t a narrow few countries that give us the ‘good’ wine. Mexico is not well enough represented.”
- Maria Bastasch
Wine Director Compass Rose and Maydan
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BEHIND THE BAR
LIGHTEN UP by Victor Ozols
For many people, an invitation to drinks at a Mexican bar or restaurant implies a cheerful evening of margaritas with a chance of tequila shots. In recent years, however, bartenders have noticed an uptick in demand for low-alcohol and nonalcoholic versions of Latin American cocktails that feature all the fun, flavor and sophistication of their spirited counterparts.
The trend comes as a surprising, yet welcome side effect of the craft cocktail movement, according to Andi Cruzatti, general manager of the Corner, an upscale cocktail bar in downtown Miami. “There’s a huge movement in low-ABV cocktails,” Cruzatti says. “Now that the craft cocktail scene has grown, it has changed the psyche of regular drinkers—they think more about quality.” With today’s premium ingredients, she believes, cocktails don’t have to rely as much on the visceral impact of alcohol to give guests the wow factor they’re looking for. “Ten years ago, people wanted the strongest drinks they could get, and now they order cocktails where they can’t taste the alcohol and don’t complain,” she says. As with the traditional kind, Cruzatti’s approach to low- and no-alcohol Mexican cocktails begins with “culturally appropriate fruits and spices.” The challenge, then, is finding the right ingredients to replace the volume, texture, and—let’s be honest—intoxicating power of a 40 percent ABV or higher spirit. “Bartenders can get used to leaning on a recipe,” she says. Mixing nonalcoholic drinks “helps them get back to the core of understanding flavor pairings because you don’t have the alcohol to mask it.” At the Corner, cocktails are elevated with an impressive variety of house-made syrups, shrubs and other artisanal ingredients. “To make a mocktail margarita, I would do agave-jalapeno-cilantro syrup, lime, shake it, and add a splash of ginger beer to give it that pop,” she says, noting that Mojo bitters can be used if the guest is OK with trace amounts of alcohol.
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Her low-alcohol margarita, meanwhile, contains a surprisingly versatile ingredient that’s finding its way into more and more bars: agave wine. “It’s made from the same plant as tequila and mezcal and has only 24 percent to 30 percent alcohol,” Cruzatti explains. “You can make any sort of margarita with agave wine, and it will taste like the tequila drink. It has that bite.” She takes a similar approach to the paloma. “For my (low-alcohol) version of the paloma, I would make a grapefruit shrub, add some Stiegl Radler grapefruit beer, some lime and use a salted rim,” she says. “If you want a completely non-alcoholic paloma, I would do the grapefruit shrub, soda water, lime and a salted rim.” The low- and no-alcohol trend isn’t confined to Florida. Throughout the month of January, Brooklyn, New York’s Leyenda offered a special menu of nonalcoholic cocktails featuring such unique recipes as the Juliana Orange (coconut, orange, lemon, orange flower water, Perrier L’Orange) and What Ace (ginger, pineapple, lime, Perrier). Over the river in Manhattan, Saxon + Parole has no fewer than eight nonalcoholic cocktails on its regular menu, including the Bell Pepper Lemonade, made with fresh red bell pepper juice, lemon, organic agave and chili tincture. And at Washington, D.C.’s Poca Madre, bartenders get creative, whipping up both classic and custom mocktails with such ingredients as mango, passionfruit, pineapple and hibiscus salt. “When our bartenders get an order for a nonalcoholic cocktail, their eyes light up,” says bar manager Amin Seddiq. “They get excited about it because they can experiment and do a lot of different things.”
SWEET UP While luxe versions of nonalcoholic Mexican cocktails are a recent phenomenon, Mexican soft drinks, teas and assorted aguas frescas have long been a staple in both restaurants and households. “I’ve made several versions of sangrita over the years,” says Shannon Ponche, head bartender at Leyenda, referring to the non-alcoholic beverage often sipped alongside mezcal or tequila. Leyenda’s version differs from the traditional recipe, which calls for tomato juice. “Our house sangrita has carrot juice, papaya, lime, orange juice, chipotle and Chile de árbol.” Cesar Valdivia, a bartender at Bourbon Steak Miami, is a fan of horchata, a sweet, rice-based beverage that tastes best when it’s hot outside. “Horchata is made from grinding up rice and soaking it in water,” Valdivia explains. “You drain the water and add condensed and
evaporated milk as well as cinnamon. Pour it over ice and you have a refreshing, yet sweet beverage that’s perfect for South Florida.” “Another nonalcoholic drink that’s popular in my native Guadalajara, Mexico, is called a rusa,” he continues. “Put two ounces of lime juice and a pinch of salt into a glass with a salted rim, then add ice and grapefruit soda. It’s very refreshing.” For operators hoping to keep labor to a minimum, those iconic glass bottles of Mexican soda are always a hit. “We have all the versions of Jarritos, along with Mexican Coke, Mexican Fanta, Mexican Sprite and so on,” says Poca Madre’s Amin Seddiq. “It’s about the fun factor, people love the big display, kids enjoy it and they’re great for cocktail making, too. Just a splash.” n
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BREAKING BREAD
Shining a light on
extraordinary
female chefs Mindy S. Kolof
In an era when diversity and heritage are increasingly celebrated, female chefs are stepping into the spotlight with a story to tell that is uniquely theirs. In this ongoing series, we share how their culinary passion and spirit continues to reshape an everevolving industry.
Lorena Garcia’s Watercress Chicken Salad
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Lorena Garcia “We’ve heard from guests who have never tried these flavors before and love them, as well as from those who grew up eating this food and tell us it reminds them of home.”
Lorena Garcia’s Chica restaurant in Las Vegas and Sarah Dworak’s Wodka Bar in Cincinnati may be miles apart, but both are driven by a powerful connection to their legacy cuisines, and are eloquent ambassadors for generations of cherished culinary traditions. A high-profile celebrity chef and gifted entrepreneur, Garcia has carved a path like few others. Born in Caracas, Venezuela, Garcia’s journey encompasses years of experience at restaurants across the globe, star turns on television’s “Top Chef Masters” and “America’s Next Great Restaurant,” two bestselling cookbooks, and an enviable track record of successful restaurants showcasing her LatinAmerican cooking. The 2017 opening of Chica at The Venetian in Las Vegas was particularly notable, earning her the title of “first Latina woman chef” on the famed Strip. There, she daily relishes the chance to blend and reimagine the flavors of Venezuela, Peru, Brazil, Argentina and Mexico. At Chica, the grill kitchen has been turning out succulent Meyer lemon rotisserie chickens and Peruvian octopus to appreciative diners since day one, and the ceviche bar continues to gain followers intrigued by the tart, fresh flavors on offer. “We’ve heard from guests who have never tried these flavors before and love them, as well as from those who grew up eating this food and tell us it reminds them of home,” says Garcia.
For Sarah Dworak, recreating the taste of her Polish home for Cincinnati pierogi lovers has sparked almost a decade of business success, with her biggest leap—the Wodka Bar—still ahead. Babushka Pierogies grew from its modest beginnings in 2012 at a pierogi party for family and friends to a venue at the prestigious Findlay Market House, with Dworak and her partner making up to 4,000 hand-crafted delicacies a week. “I’m selling memories,” she describes. “So many people told me how they would make pierogis like mine with their grandma, just like I did when I was growing up. It’s labor intensive and not readily available, so this is my way of keeping the legacy alive.” Now, Dworak is taking her memories a step further with the opening of her long-time dream, a vodka bar featuring infusions for flights and cocktails, zakuska (cold foods that traditionally accompany vodka shots) and, of course, a selection of her best-selling pierogis. “Vodka is a huge part of Eastern European culture,” says Dworak. “Every shot of vodka requires a toast. You become really good at making toasts! I want to recreate that feeling of sitting around a table with family and friends, sharing food and enjoying conversation.” n
Sarah Dworak
“I’m selling memories. So many people told me how they would make pierogis like mine with their grandma, just like I did when I was growing up.”
BREAKING BREAD
‘Fanatical hospitality’ key to success at legendary Commander’s Palace in New Orleans Mindy S. Kolof 118 | RESTAURANT INC
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here’s good, and then there’s great. The restaurant that lands on every go-to list, earns years of raves on social media and boasts a team of genuinely happy employees, is the one that understands the power of hospitality.
In each issue, we’ll highlight restaurateurs whose success comes not from serving up the latest food trends, but serving up a perfect experience. There’s no better example than Ti Adelaide Martin, co-proprietor of New Orleans’ legendary Commander’s Palace.
“Hospitality is truly the new frontier in American dining.” – Ti Adelaide Martin, co-proprietor of New Orleans’ legendary Commander’s Palace
From her vantage point at the pinnacle of the industry, running one of the country’s most well-loved restaurants, it would be easy for Martin to rest on her laurels. Instead, she’s armed and ready to lead a revolution whose time has come — the hospitality revolution. “For years, we’ve overlooked what is at the core of the dining experience, how we make people feel,” she says. “Hospitality is truly the new frontier in American dining.”
That kind of experience is possible with perpetual reinforcement. Every employee has an opportunity to practice fanatical hospitality, from the waiter bustling down the aisle holding a tray piled with dishes who graciously cedes the right of way to a customer, to a valet protectively holding an umbrella over a guest during a big storm. “It wasn’t just that he did it, but it was the way he did it, with great caring,” relates Martin.
In America, Martin muses, service is frequently poor because on some level people feel demeaned serving others. Her solution: Turn it completely around with a concept she’s dubbed “fanatical hospitality.”
Inspired by a fellow restaurateur at the recent American Cuisine & Hospitality symposium hosted by Commander’s Palace, Martin launched a program to recognize “hospitality heroes,” with the conscientious valet as the first awardee.
“We say it’s an honor to serve and make sure guests have an extraordinary evening. It starts with making a reservation with an actual person who is thrilled to take it, you are greeted at the door with a sincere ‘welcome,’ the food is soulful and exciting, your chair is pulled for you, warmth envelopes you from the servers.”
“We plan to make a real fuss over him,” shares Martin, “put up a big picture of him, give him a gift certificate and let everyone know how much this matters.” n
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BREAKING BREAD
The Magic of Mexico City’s Legendary Mayoras
One of Mexico City’s oldest restaurants continues to make its meals like it first did when it opened its doors—in 1912. Ximena N. Larkin
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exico City has no shortage of eating options. For the diner on a budget, it is easy to stop at any of the many food vendors lining the sidewalks. Travelers would be doing themselves a disservice, however, if they did not make time to experience a proper sit-down meal for a sense of the capital’s rhythm of life.
Though the city lays claim to some of the world’s best restaurants, it is Café Tacuba, which opened in 1912, that is most emblematic of the people and its culture. Perhaps because the restaurant is a seed from which the city sprung up, and continues to do so. Located in Mexico City’s historical district, just a few steps from where Daniel Craig kicked off the start of “Spectre,” the 2015 installment in the James Bond series, sits the third oldest restaurant in the city. “The key ingredient and secret have been to keep it the same,” says Juan Pablo Ballesteros, the current owner and great-grandson of Dionisio Mollinedo Hernández, who originally opened Café Tacuba.
“Keeping it the way each generation remembers it has created a certain ambiance. While other people focus on trends, we just try to respect the way we did things in the past and try to replicate them as close as possible.” Ballesteros credits mayoras—the title given to the women who run his kitchen—with keeping things almost as they were when the restaurant was established. He explains how centuries ago nuns named madre mayor, were tasked with feeding everyone in a monastery or church. “[The nuns] needed to supply everyone with food, and they spent most of their time in the kitchen making Mexican food with devotion,” explains Ballesteros. “They were cooking for the people. They were cooking for Mexico. Many of Mexico’s recipes were made in churches and monitories.”
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There isn’t proof to dispel or confirm Ballesteros’ claims. Patricia Trejo Lozano, who currently runs his kitchen, nevertheless is the third-generation mayora to helm Café Tacuba’s kitchen. Her recipes are original, handed down by her grandmother and made in the exact same way, which often result in longer than anticipated wait times.
exterior is soot covered from the cars rumbling a mere arms-length distance away. Two glass-stained windows book-end a tall, wooden door in which you enter. No one would blame a person for having low expectations based on its outward appearance. But, once inside, it feels as if a secret has been passed on, and only those deemed worthy enough to receive it, have.
And those looking to employ their own mayora should know this: “You don’t find them,” says Ballesteros. “You don’t look for them. There is no mayora school.
One dining room covered in oil paintings and talavera, or Mexican pottery, leads into the next, which leads to a winding staircase, which leads into another massive dining area.
“There are only a few who are named this for their specialty in Mexican cuisine and ability to command traditional technique. They share their technique with an apprentice and bestow them the title when they have mastered all the skills.” And Café Tacuba is one place to experience their expertise up close.
“It’s a bit like the scene in ‘Mary Poppins’ when things keep coming out of a seemingly bottomless purse,” describes Ben Sabel, a tourist from Austin, Texas.
If you are walking fast, it is possible to miss the restaurant’s entrance. The
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Once in your seat, the magic begins. n
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“The entire menu, with the exception of our burger, is gluten free unless a guest specifically orders flour tortillas,” says Israel Delgado, executive restaurant chef at Lona in Fort Lauderdale, Fla. “The burger can be served in a lettuce wrap, making our entire menu gluten-free.” Such is the norm for Mexican restaurants due to the presence of corn in almost every dish. “A high percentage of our menu—I’d say 75 percent—is gluten free,” asserts Joe Quintana, regional executive chef of Rosa Mexicano, a modern Mexican chain with 11 locations on the East Coast and in California. Arguably, the most iconic Mexican food item is the corn tortilla. Delgado is proud of the way Lona’s tortillas are made true to their heritage. “The tortillas we serve are all corn and gluten free. All tacos are served in a corn tortilla because they are authentic.” Traditionally made with masa and water, corn tortillas form the base of many favorite Mexican dishes, including tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas and tostadas. Hence the reason why many Mexican restaurants boast predominantly gluten-free menus. But flour is sneaky and appears in many aspects of dishes that diners don’t realize or expect like sauces, soups and dips. Both Rosa Mexicano and Lona avoid this by using corn in unexpected ways.
“We make our nachos with a cheese sauce that is thickened with masa; this is something that is very appealing to those with gluten-free diets,” says Quintana. “Cheese sauces are generally thickened with flour, so gluten-free diners cannot generally enjoy nachos. At Rosa Mexicano, they are one of our top sellers!” Similarly, at Lona, “We take it one step further when thinking about our customer base,” says Delgado. “In order to accommodate gluten-free diners, all of our sauces are vegetable based and thickened with xanthan gum and corn tortilla. We use corn tortillas as a thickening agent and as a replacement for bread and starches.” Lona estimates that 10 percent of their diners avoid gluten and Rosa Mexicano has seen an increased demand for gluten-free items. That means there are a lot of people to whom Lona and other Mexican restaurants should be marketing. As Delgado already knows. “We see ourselves marketing the fact that we’re gluten free to a larger base in the future,” he says. n
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EATING HEALTHY
Mexican Food:
The Perfect
Gluten-Free Cuisine
Did you know that corn keeps flavor intact while eliminating allergens? Erica Bethe Levin
ost traditional Mexican food is gluten free. As corn is such an integral component in Latin cuisine, it is a natural replacement for flour. Though Mexican fare is not necessarily regarded as a health food, those following a gluten-free diet due to allergies or insensitivities are certain to find appropriate, and delicious, menu options at Mexican eateries.
M
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T
he challenge of creating fresh, exciting meals each day can be daunting at a senior living facility. Not so at Milwaukee-
area’s Regency Senior Communities, where director of dining Allan McPhedran’s catering operation not only re-ignites his staff’s culinary passion, but brings in extra revenue and a potential new wave of residents. His secret? Scratch-made events from start to finish.
“We don’t adapt the menu to the customer, but create a brand new one each time. Asking what they want rather than putting everyone in the same box is what sets us apart.” – Allan McPhedran
The mantra of putting the customer first is the only way to do business for McPhedran and his dedicated Regency team. The catering process, which traditionally starts with pre-set menus, is turned on its head with a “freestyle” approach offering unlimited options. “We don’t adapt the menu to the customer, but create a brand new one each time. Asking what they want rather than putting everyone in the same box is what sets us apart,” he explains. With degrees from Monte Carlo Hotel School and Lausanne Hotel School in Switzerland, as well as stints at New York’s Plaza Hotel and a large Wisconsin medical center, McPhedran has the expertise to fulfill just about any customer request. Even more important, he can count on his kitchen crew, which is skilled and flexible, to do the same. “We can put together a plated dinner, a buffet, a cocktail party, pretty much anything, except maybe sushi,” he laughs. “The team has the culinary knowledge to do this well, and it also challenges them not to do the same meals over and over.” So, when a physician-resident, originally from the Philippines, asked the team to collaborate on a buffet dinner featuring authentic pork stew and rice, McPhedran was delighted to make it happen. Likewise, when the son and daughter of a resident who passed away requested a memorial cocktail hour
for 100, he quickly created a simple, yet elegant spread, based entirely on their preferences, highlighting Wisconsin cheeses and sausages. “We plotted out the menu within 15 minutes and eliminated a great deal of stress for them at a difficult time,” he recalls. Last Christmas, when a group of carolers returned for a dinner celebration, McPhedran was prepared to make it even more special. Knowing they preferred a less spicy meal than the previous year’s taco buffet, he provided a completely different experience with a plated chicken parmesan entrée and show-stopping flourless chocolate cake, which was housemade to save on costs. At $3 per person, McPhedran kept it tasty and reasonably priced. He gives the same careful attention to Regency residents, who’ve become enthusiastic boosters. The classic Friday fish fry was given a fine-dining touch with an amuse-bouche, featuring treats like crabmeat or shrimp. Attendance soared from 20 to 70 residents and guests weekly, thanks to the upscale choices and addition of a live piano player. He also holds monthly residents’ meetings to chew over issues ranging from sodium reduction to finding the perfect pizza crust, and retooled menus to offer more premium choices, such as Swedish meatballs with lingonberries. “The residents love it and talk about it,” McPhedran exclaims. “They talk a lot about the food!” n
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EATING HEALTHY
Catering to the
Community Mindy S. Kolof
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MORISQUETA Mexican Rice and Beans INGREDIENTS [Servings 6-8] 2 cups
uncooked rice
4 cups
water
1 lb
red tomatoes
½ lb
Pinto beans, cooked and seasoned
3
green jalapeno chiles, seeded and sliced in small strips
¼ lb
queso fresco, crumbled
½ cup
onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Cilantro leaves, washed chopped
Salt to taste
PREPARATION Rinse rice very well, place in pot and cover with water. Add salt to taste, cover pan and put over stove at high heat setting. Cook tomatoes and chiles with little water until tender. Puree half the chiles, tomatoes, garlic and salt. Sauté onions, add sauce and continue to cook for a few minutes. Remove from heat and add cheese. Roast the other half of chiles in oil until charred slightly. To serve this dish, place a bed of rice, top with salsa and beans, then decorate with remaining chile strips and cilantro leaves.
cane arrived with the Spanish, as did lime, tamarind and fragrant new spices such as cinnamon, clove and pepper. The original flavors and healthy sensibilities are still part of today’s authentic Mexican dishes. It’s fitting then that Mexico was the first world cuisine to be named a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). The 2010 recognition was inspired by the country’s numerous distinctive achievements: environmentally responsible planting techniques (milpas, rotating fields of corn and other crops, and chinampas, creating small, rectangular areas of fertile arable land to grow crops in the Valley of Mexico); cooking processes such as nixtamalization, a soaking technique that increases corn’s nutritional value; use of native ingredients (corn, beans and chiles augmented by tomatoes, squash, avocados, cocoa and vanilla) and singular utensils, including grinding stones and stone mortars. It was a long time coming, but Mexico is at last being appreciated for its authentic contributions to the global table.
Restaurant, Inc. is proud to celebrate this magnificent cuisine with recipes crafted by Reinhart Executive Chef Jeff Merry, inspired by the vibrant, fresh and healthful flavors of Mexico from its earliest days. Viva Mexico! n
Visit rfsdelivers.com for more recipes Find more healthy ideas including Chef Jeff Merry’s recipe for polla encacahuatado and atole. SPRING 2019 | 130
We’re here to explode the age-old myth that mainstream Mexican foods are defined by cheesy, deep fried and creamy richness. They are, in fact, some of the healthiest dishes on the planet.
There’s a world of difference between uber-popular Tex-Mex and original Mexican cuisine, spanning centuries and continents. Reframing Mexican food to incorporate the dairy and meat products native to Texas and an American palate accustomed to generous amounts of sugar and fat, meant much was lost in translation. As some of the earliest proponents of plant-based eating, authentic Mexican recipes can go grain to grain with the revered Mediterranean diet. Every important box is checked—an abundance of native, fresh ingredients, documented health benefits and a focus on clean eating. The building blocks of this cuisine, stemming back 9,000 years, are based on three foods: corn tortillas, beans and chile peppers. Also on the indigenous Mexican food plate are ancient grains, herbs, edible flowers, and a bountiful variety of vegetables and fruits. Experts note that sugar
PESCADO A LA VERACRUZANA A traditional fish dish from the coast of Mexico INGREDIENTS [Servings 4] 2 tbsp
olive oil, divided
½
onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 4
large tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2
green chiles, roasted and chopped
1 tsp
salt
1
bay leaf
1 tsp
dried oregano
12
large green olives, cut in half
2 Tbsp capers 4 pieces fresh red snapper PREPARATION Add one tablespoon of olive oil in large saucepan. Heat it over medium-high and add onions. Sauté onions until they become opaque. Add garlic, tomatoes and green chiles, and continue to cook them. Reduce heat to medium-low and add remaining ingredients, except for fish. Simmer sauce for 15 minutes. Heat sauté pan over medium heat; add remaining olive oil. Season fish with salt and pepper, and place fish in the pan, skin side up and cook for 3 minutes to 6 minutes, then turn. Continue to cook until done. Plate and cover with sauce.
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EATING HEALTHY
Health The not-so-guilty pleasures of Mexican cuisine Mindy Kolof and Reinhart Corporate Executive Chef Jeff Merry
Seven-layer taco salad, loaded nachos, burritos dripping with cheddar cheese, fried tortilla chips, battered chiles, a tres leche cake. These are familiar Mexican foods that seem as far from a nutritionist’s dream cuisine as possible.
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R
ich, flavorful cuisine inspired by regional Mexican specialties can be brought to your menu with ease. With paste bases from
Culinary Secrets®, you can prepare delicious stocks, sauces, marinades and glazes in minutes. We offer a range of versatile flavor profiles— including chicken, beef, vegetable and clam —which can be utilized across dayparts and menu categories.
Why Culinary Secrets® bases? • Consistent, easy-to-use product for making soups and stocks with made-from-scratch flavor • Versatility across menu applications, including marinades, glazes, dips, spreads and salad dressings • Fully seasoned and available in a wide range of flavors— a complete solutions offering • Develop menu items that meet nutritional demands, such as low sodium, vegan or gluten-free • Save time, money and labor while improving consistency in finished dishes—simply add to boiling water to create stock in just minutes
Culinary Secrets® bases:
a Reinhart Exclusive!
Visit rfsdelivers.com or contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant for additional product information or to place an order today!
Eating Healthy, Living Well The not-so-guilty pleasures of Mexican cuisine