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Place orders, manage food costs, control inventory, build recipes, and browse extensive product inventory.
TRACS Direct makes any kitchen run smoother and more efficiently. We have your interests in mind, to equip you with powerful tools that help manage your business. With TRACS Direct, managing multiple locations has never been simpler. Now you can focus on running your business rather than running around. And because TRACS Direct is Web R E S TA U R A N T
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Carnivorous Comforts Breaking Down Meats
Growing Concerns
pg. 32
Expanding your Restaurant
INC
pg. 82
| the business of food | FA L L 2013
In Our Communities A Pilgrimage to New England pg. 08
Beverage Section Fall & Winter Brings Ales & Cozy Cocktails pg. 47
Contact your local Reinhart速 Sales Consultant for more information on sign-up at tracsdirect.com.
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E D I T O R ’ S
N O T E
Easy Answers The restaurant industry is many things: a massive job machine, an economic powerhouse, an anything-is-possible opportunity, a social gathering spot and sweet, blessed relief from the stove for those who seek meals—and that’s just for starters, a small scratch at its complicated and richly nuanced surface. Easy, though, is not one of the ways to accurately describe or define foodservice, a point that anyone within its broad parameters knows unequivocally and with the absolute certainty of a truth learned in the trenches. Any job within this vast universe, from dishwasher to pantry cook, bar back to maître d, server to social media strategist to CEO, most certainly gets snuggled up with its share of challenges, vexations and disappointments. But here’s the thing: restaurants are not the sole proprietor of hard times; they lurk everywhere and, in many sectors, they’re offset with fewer upside rewards than those found in foodservice. To help with the win, for your business and the larger industry, a few points to ponder:
1. In
this business you, your boss and all of your colleagues really do the same work: serve customers. And customers are the only reason you have a job, so serve them well. No matter how much you protest or beg to differ, it is not any more complicated than that.
2. With
more than 13 million jobs to keep filled, labor shortages will continue. Rather than wringing your hands over it, ease the stranglehold on your business by treating workers kindly, fairly and respectfully, offering competitive—or slightly better—pay and endowing all positions with a sense of dignity.
3. Workers connect more deeply with organizations that make them feel invested in their work and their company. To that end, share with them successes and failures, profits and losses.
4. Monitor
every cost and expense, mindful that in a small-margin business, saving even a little means a lot.
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5. Don’t
focus on all that you have accomplished but instead on what you’re doing in the here and now. An MBA and a boatload of experience don’t mean much if you don’t motivate your team or do your job well.
6. Pay
attention to things that exist outside the restaurant realm and figure out what they mean within your walls. Consumer confidence, commodity costs, jobless rates, the Dow Jones® and housing prices all affect how many burgers and fries are sold.
7. Technology
has totally rewritten the script. Continually define and refine your strategy, placing particular emphasis on how it can improve operations and connect you to customers.
8. Do
a deep dive into your psyche and ask the hard questions: do you like the industry, your restaurant, the food you serve, the people you work with? If you’ve lost passion or somehow have convinced yourself that you exist on a plane above your customers, at the very least it’s time to recalibrate the attitude. Maybe it’s time to change jobs.
9. Shake
things up every now and then by taking a business risk—not a jump-off-the-cliff thing but a smartly considered move into an unexpected realm.
10. Embrace
the very idea that change in the industry is constant; don’t dread, avoid, ignore or forestall it. Seek it out and use it as an advantage. The leap from tough to easy—or at least easier— is largely a game that plays out in the head, as an attitude, strategy and set of beliefs about how the industry should look and feel. Guests who support your business deserve your best. Game on. n
Pat Dailey Guest Editor
Exceed Expectations.
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COVER FEATURED ARTICLES 08 In Our Communities A Pilgrimage to New England 32 Carnivorous Comforts Breaking Down Meats 82 Growing Concerns Expanding your Restaurant
TABLE OF CONTENTS 24 Greener Pastures 26 Product Spotlight Getting to the Root of Fall Produce
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert COPY EDITOR Dave Salvi
28 Holy Tuna! Q & A with the Capt’n
ART DIRECTION & LEAD DESIGNER Jenn Bushman
30 Trending Now
DESIGNER Drew Frigo PHOTOGRAPHERS Dan Coha, Kyle Domer, Drew Frigo,
39 Business Continuity Food for Thought
David Greenwood, Cody Pickens, Jordan Viola ADVERTISING SALES
43 Breaking Out of the Shell
Andrea Long CONTRIBUTING EDITORS/WRITERS
68 Taking Comfort Food to the Next Level with Fresh Produce
Pat Dailey, Min Casey, Mindy Kolof, Chef Jeffrey Merry, Molly Reilly, Dave Salvi, Audarshia Townsend,
Cover Image | Dan Coha Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or magazine@rfsdelivers.com
photo by Dan Coha
Jeff Zimmerman
70 Career Spotlight Peter Lopez
©2013 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered FA L L 2 or 0 1otherwise) 3 R F S D of E Ltheir I V E respective R S . C O Mowners. 5
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TOC co n t in u e d 72 E-check Please! Is the World Ready for Self Checkout?
BEVERAGE SECTION
47
48 Brewery Spotlight Vermont Pub & Brewery
78 Hospitals Dish Up Healthy Meals with a Side of Satisfaction 80 Working with Your Distributor
54 Oktoberfest Fever
88 Chipotle Wins w/Food You Can Believe In
56 Fall & Winter Ales Defined
92 Safety First
58 Fall & Winter Ales
94 Calendar of Events Upcoming | Food Shows
61 Warming Up Winter Cocktails
96 Chef’s Essentials Chatting w/Chef Brad Ozerdem
65 Vodka Gone Light
98 Sneak Peek Great Places in NOLA 99 Operator Index
photo by Dan Coha
100 | 101 Advertiser’s Index | Beverage Recipes
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102 Recipes | Comfort Meats 104 Commodities Tracking
©2013 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.
Fresh produce is the cornerstone of any good menu. Markon First Crop and Ready-Set-Serve fruit and vegetable products give you the versatility to create colorful, avor-packed recipes. Traditional Irish colcannon, made with mashed potatoes and cabbage, gets an update here with the extremely popular ingredient kale. This rich and creamy side dish pairs well with fall beef dishes such as braised pot roast. Be inspired at markon.com.
Join Markon’s online community today and enrich your knowledge and connections. Browse: markon.com Learn: mobile app Connect: social media FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 7
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
experiencing heritage and history: A 4-Day Road Trip in New England by Dave Salvi
8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
T
his trip took Team Reinhart by crashing waves of the North Atlantic, the rolling Green Mountains, and roaring personalities of New Englanders. The good people of this region spared no sociability when talking with us about food, operations, beer, customers, and business. Team Reinhart loved every minute of it!
Throughout the journey we found family-run operations, heritage establishments, and innovators that any operation in Reinhart Country can learn from. We discovered pride, rich history, good food, heralded veterans’ words of wisdom, and a linguistic accent heard only in this sacred pocket of America. Join us as we tour the most storied region of the United States! >> FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9
“When you come down this street and it is big box stores, and you pull up
to
us,
we’re
different.
People
understand we’re offering something that is different,” he said. One could argue the reason is as easy as pie…literally. According to Matt, their bakery has supplied a majority of their revenues over the last 56 years. The Mann Made® Mann Orchards pies are no joke in Methuen. Matt says the store sells hundreds upon hundreds per week until major holidays arrive. To David Greenwood
give you an idea of their pie production on a major holiday, Matt said Mann Orchards made and sold over 26,000 pies during Thanksgiving week last year (we told you we weren’t kidding). When Mann Orchards moved to their current building in 2008, the family
mann orchards
METHUEN, MASSACHUSETTS
O
neighborhood – a quick spot to grab a good lunch. They started simply with sandwiches, soups, and quiches. The menu changes weekly, and has evolved to include flatbreads and seasonal salads as well.
ver 100 years in the making, three locations, and a million fruit pies later (we’re not
kidding), Mann Orchards flourishes as much as its 20-acre farm fruits season after season. in
added a café menu to fill a void in the
Methuen,
As the oldest business Massachusetts,
this
farm stand, bakery, and café delivers Methueners a fresh taste of New England produce and flavor.
seasonally at a place customers can call home.
fresh,
seasonal,
locally
food], as much as we can, near the farm,” Matt said.
To differentiate Mann Orchards their
Pleasant
all
sourced. We definitely source [our
mann made ® from
“It’s
neighbors
Valley
Street
on (The
“Big Box Stores” as Matt calls them), the family adheres to the meaning behind their slogan
Mann Orchards made and sold over 26,000 pies during Thanksgiving week last year (we told you we weren’t kidding).
Owner Matt Fitzgerald and his family
– Mann Made®.
uphold a tradition set by his great-
store are cooked in their kitchens and
Mann’s embraces the four seasons,
great-grandfather more than a century
are from Mann Orchards farms or local
understanding
ago, and plan to adapt to change
farm partners. Trackability, as Matt
Smith apples shouldn’t be available
the only way they know – the Mann
says, is key to what they do. People
in the middle of February. Each
Orchards way. Local produce picked
want to know their food’s sourcing.
season stimulates customer’s taste
1 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
The items in their that
ripe
Granny
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
buds, and Mann’s changes its menus accordingly. That sort of responsiveness has been a success for their operation.
beyond the apples For a 100-plus-year-old operation, the family relies on its reputation in the community and the power of word-of-mouth marketing. The people of Methuen know that Mann Orchards is different from its neighbors. Mann’s customers will let you know it too. (This reporter has learned of that loyalty – upon entry for the interview, three separate Mann’s patrons spoke to Restaurant Inc in the parking lot, saying it was “the best place in town”.) Matt understands the importance
“Our customers are not just a deli number to stand there and wait. You’re not number 83. You’re Jim or Barbara.” of adapting to the times, and Mann’s has utilized the power of social media marketing. It is a useful tool for communicating to customers about seasonal updates.
“For us, for my family, this is our house. We get up every day and come home. We may sleep somewhere else, but we come here, because this is our home and we want everyone to feel that way.”
from family to farm stand patron When arriving at the farm stand, bakery, or café, Mann’s employees greet all patrons with a smile and many with a first-name greeting. Mann’s trains staff to develop a “family” mindset and works hard to ensure that it trickles down to customers. “A customer might come up to the bakery counter and before [they order], their two apple crumb coffee cakes are in a bag, with the price on it, and ready to go. Our customers are not just a deli number to stand there and wait. You’re not number 83. You’re Jim or Barbara.” Fresh flavors picked from orchards, homemade pies, and a wood-burning fireplace – for Mann Orchards patrons, it feels like home. >>
BIRTH OF A BAKERY When Matt’s father was born, his grandparents needed a crib for their new baby and a bed for Matt’s uncle. His grandmother, using the orchard crops so near at hand, baked apple pies in the basement so they could buy the crib and bed. She never stopped. One pie at a time, the word about Mann Orchards got around and eventually business took off. At the peak of her operation, she was making 700 pies per week. The family still has the original mixing bowl Grandma used for the handmade dough. We were happy to hear that for their 20th wedding anniversary, Grandpa bought a 12-quart stand mixer for her. To this day, Mann Orchards uses Grandma’s same recipe and formula to uphold a Methuen tradition—and the same delicious fruit pie flavors.
“Our lunch menu changes every week. Once we post the new menus, we see a jump in activity – people want to know what they’re going to eat,” Matt explained. He likes the connection with customers, because essentially they are extended family coming into Mann’s house.
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Executive
Chef
and
Director
of
Operations Tim Scott hopes for one reaction – “Wow!” That shouldn’t be
too
difficult
considering
the
dedication he and his team have to the Southwestern theme in the far-off land of Connecticut. Chef Scott aims to please with the real deal: fresh and dried chiles from New Mexico, buffalo and elk in South Dakota, and Navajo fry bread (traditional
Native
American
fried
dough) dishes. The restaurant works because of David Greenwood
dedication to its purpose – bringing authentic
Southwestern
cuisine
to
the region. It starts with the people cooking and serving the dishes - right at the top with Chef Scott. “This is what my life is. Get to
geronimo tequila bar & southwest grill
know your customers and your staff.
new haven, connecticut
smiles at the table, and smiles during
I wanted to build my staff to be the best they can be by getting to know them. Help them develop.” Chef Scott added, “Quality food and cocktails back it up.” As
for
employees?
Smile.
Chef
wants to see smiles at the front door, the manager’s rounds. Sometimes it’s just that simple to keep guests happy.
I
f Santa Fe’s cuisine decided to pack its bags and move to the East Coast, it’d find a home in New Haven,
by lobster rolls and clam
Connecticut. Five and half years ago,
the results. Oh, and they
New Haveners may have thought just
boast the largest collection
that when the doors of Geronimo
of tequila on the Eastern Seaboard
Tequila Bar & Southwest Grill opened
with more than 300 different tastes of
near Yale University campus.
tequila at the bar.
With a Native American Southwest
selling southwest to new england
tequila’s rise
Geronimo owns this cuisine in a
When patrons walk into Geronimo
Although
region
Tequila
demographic isn’t the normal Ivy
focus
and of
Mexican the
country
specialties, dominated
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Geronimo Tequila has more than 300 different tastes of tequila.
chowdas. And more than five years in, customers love
Bar
&
Southwest
Grill,
The chile and tequila will smile (or speak) for itself.
Chef
Scott
admits
their
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
Leaguer
tequila
are consumed at Geronimo each
fanatics come from around the
population,
month (not just because they are
country, such as the Agave Idiots,
adjacent to a college campus), and
a global club of tequila enthusiasts (www.agaveidiots.com).
They
always leave satisfied. Thousands of gallons of tequila
Chef Scott shows the versatility of the adult beverage. With hundreds of flavors, he uses that diverse artillery in his cooking. You will find it up and down the menu. Learning
Smile . Chef wants to see smiles at the front door, smiles at the table, and smiles during the manager’s rounds. Sometimes it’s just that simple to keep guests happy.
those
hundreds
of
tequilas can be a daunting task, but Chef Scott assured Restaurant Inc that monthly tequila training sessions focus on a particular tequila type. The most critical part of selling tequila is the server’s ability to sincerely and honestly describe
and
recommend
the
many options to patrons. >>
Too Chile? Grab a Coat! Chef Scott explains chile’s importance on Geronimo’s menu. By his telling, it separates the operation from other Southwestern style restaurants in New England. “Our appreciation for chiles is what makes us unique.” Chef Scott said. And Geronimo spares no expense, receiving all of their chiles from New Mexico. They are used in a variety of menu items, adding complexities to the flavor profile and a little heat for good measure.
Award-grabbing Geronimo Geronimo uses a variety of marketing tactics, such as radio, newspaper, and magazine advertising, but they let their product do most of the talking to the market. Chef Scott shared several recent honors awarded to Geronimo Tequila Bar & Southwest Grill: Top 100 Hottest Restaurant Bars – Open Table® Best Tequila Bar in the State of Connecticut – Connecticut Magazine Best Table-scape – Taste of a Nation Best Table – American Liver Foundation Dinner
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 3
building doesn’t make it easy on the 150-person staff. There’s no elevator, so everything needs to be hauled by hand – up and down stairs. The staff doesn’t mind because they know that true tradition is part of their culture. They want every customer to feel at home. “[The property] is a beast, much bigger than you think,” Glick explains. “[We have] a service culture. The little inn with big hospitality. The most important things we sell here are hospitality and guest service. We have David Greenwood
servers,
staff,
accounting
more than 30 years. They stay here because of the guest satisfaction. It makes them feel warm inside.” Publick House banks on it, especially
publick house historic inn
STURBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS
F
lodging
personnel that have worked here for
or a building older than the United States of America, Publick House in Sturbridge, Massachusetts, is
chugging along smoothly, and there isn’t a hint of surrendering to Father Time. With two restaurants and nearly a dozen banquet spaces for weddings, socials, and business meetings, this historic spot in the middle of the Massachusetts Commonwealth leans
built restaurant. Décor really matters. It takes [guests] back in time.”
they fall in love – especially with the all-wood floor (more dancing space!). Word of mouth is key for the banquet spaces – spreading the news about the unique ambiance, quality food, and excellent service. Glick also said a recent survey isn’t stopping. Core customers travel,
richer in history by the day, the staff embraces its pre-Revolution
position
and delivers every single day, whether in one of the restaurants or at one of the 175 weddings they
England with its allure.
host in a given year.
Michael Glick, GM of Publick House,
hospitality is their thing
and historic New England. Classic
Tradition
things you wouldn’t see in a modern-
operation,
1 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Glick
knows if a bride walks into his space,
shows their tradition of hospitality
As Publick House grows
on the traditions that supply New
said, “We’re all about historic food
with their wedding parties.
carries and
on average, 50 miles to visit—and
Publick the
“[We have] a service culture. The little inn with big hospitality. The most important things we sell here are hospitality and guest service.” the average guest has been coming for 30 years. He noticed that people House’s
come as children with their parents,
Colonial-era
and the tradition translates to the next
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
generation. Since Publick House is located in the center of the state, it’s an optimal meeting place for families divided in the New England area.
Those
tra d i tionally trad i t i o n a l k itchen
for years and years.
Michael Heenan, Executive Chef, described the menu as “New England comfort food. Turkey dinners, baked scrod, New England pot roast, lobster pie, pecan rolls.” He likes to keep the food simple— which works in Publick House’s favor, as they operate with only one kitchen. And New England food should be simple, he says, with fewer ingredients and bold flavors.
traditions,
Colonial
in
seen too many television shows
nature, come with difficulties, as
featuring
Chef Heenan explained. Today’s
screaming chefs to know that isn’t
chefs wants to be creative, but
the answer.
these recipes have been around
“If you’re yelling and stressing
Regardless,
he is committed to the craft and improving the food when he can – whether using better product or adding little twists to certain items. Thankfully for Chef Heenan, weddings allow opportunity for that creativity. (Reporter’s Note: Perhaps not all brides want a turkey dinner at their wedding.) As for balancing the demands of two restaurants and a ton of
demonstrative
and
out, you’ll stress out your people. It’s a trickle effect we don’t want.” The stress of the kitchen could translate to the customer-facing staff,
and
that’s
not
Publick
House’s thing. They want patrons to feel welcome and at home. “Keep it simple and beautiful,” Heenan said. Simple enough. And beautifully stated. >>
banquet space? Cool, calm, and even-tempered. Chef Heenan has
Move for the Military During World War II, the United States Army used Publick House’s facilities for combat and tactical training, forcing the operation to temporarily move across the street. The Army trained soldiers for nearly two years, leaving behind pots and pans with the U.S. Army stamp, adding to the rich history of this New England destination.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 5
the Abbey Group, explained. Choiniere had graduated 8th grade at St. Albans just four years before the Abbey Group took on the program in 1989. From 1989 to 1991, the Abbey Group added three more school lunch programs. They’ve slowly grown this portion of the business; it now serves nearly 80 schools from K-12 operations to college. The Abbey Group has branched out to include business and industry, government,
summer
David Greenwood
camp,
and
after-school program accounts.
Add
weddings,
and
company
outings,
countless other catering events, and the operation is humming and keeping all employees full-steam ahead. With a full schedule and 50-mile service radius (with a few exceptions),
the abbey group
ENOSBURG FALLS, VERMONT
Choiniere said, “We are up for the challenge. We have to get creative with our business.
We are in rural
[Vermont]. We’re always on the road.” The limited staff means that all take part of the business to get rolling and adapting to the customer.
S
ince the early 1980s, the Abbey Group’s husband and wife ownership team has seen its
for the kids
schooling in growth The Abbey Group knew it had good
one restaurant operation grow rapidly,
product
offering quality food and quality service
with
for customers across multiple segments.
angle, however, was foreign to their
After
a
operations. But based on the Abbey
restaurant and catering business, the
Group’s flexibility and commitment
successfully
running
owners, David and Sherry Underwood
and
good
provided service.
customers
The
school
to the customer, schools responded
Their successful school lunch programs administered in Vermont are not an accident for the Abbey Group. Since they know children are fickle about food, the group took measures to achieve satisfaction from their little consumers. “We listen to the kids,” Nina Hansen, School Nutrition Specialist at the
saw an opening for their business and
positively.
opportunistically obliged. What turned
“We didn’t know anything about
very
out to be an education boom started with
the business at the time. They just
without
St. Albans school of Vermont in need of
asked us to do their program. We were
research and collaboration with their
an efficient daytime lunch program. The
business people looking to grow,”
suppliers achieves this goal. Choiniere
rest, as they say, is history.
Scott Choiniere, VP of Operations for
says the school program foods are
1 6 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Abbey Group, said. That means being cognizant
of
sacrificing
the
ingredients
taste.
Constant
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
well received because most meals are made from scratch – bringing a
welcome touch of homemade to lunchrooms.
Katy's Kitchen Reinhart Ad FINAL.pdf
Whether
Health and regulatory concerns
“We listen to the kids,” Nina Hansen, School Nutrition Specialist at the Abbey Group, said. That means being very cognizant of ingredients without sacrificing taste.
also are top of mind. Hansen said, “Overall [the USDA regulations]
sodium
they
levels
are
to
lowering
meet
future
regulations, creating gluten-free
will be a great benefit to the
options,
children in this country. But there
meals, or implementing whole-
is a lot of misunderstanding.”
grain
Not
adheres to the rules while keeping
for
though.
the
Abbey
Adapting
to
Group, changing
regulations is obviously a priority, but delivering a tasty product
1
catapults the operation to the top.
9/12/13
and
diabetic-friendly
regulations,
the
team
school kids lining up at lunch. >>
10:03 AM
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 7
I also noticed a couple of steakhouses. But nobody was really doing what I thought would be a great idea – take Italian and steak and combine it,” DiFillippo said. In 1999, the Massachusetts Restaurant Hall of Famer changed his concept. He opened Davio’s Philadelphia in a space with high ceilings, an elegant bar, big windows and a masculine feel, describing the concept as Northern Italian Steakhouse. It took off. After
his
Philadelphia
success,
DiFillippo transplanted the concept to David Greenwood
his Boston restaurant.
on Arlington Street in downtown Boston and implemented the same strategies. He installed a big bar in the shape of a boat, an open kitchen, hardwood floors,
davio’s boston
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
M
Eleven years
ago, Davio’s Boston found their space
agic behind dynamic duos can rarely be explained. Complementary pairs work
has
opened
six
other
restaurants
across the Eastern Seaboard with the same philosophies. But his realization
high ceilings, and big windows. The concept took off again, and DiFillippo
now
also
has
Davio’s
Northern Italian Steakhouses in New York, Atlanta, Foxborough, Lynnfield (MA), and Chestnut Hill (MA).
food of a northern italian steakhouse DiFillippo
has
a
simple
menu
together to form a better union, and
of
hey, we’ll take it! Who knew peanut
materialize in Beantown.
philosophy: “I didn’t want to have
the davio’s story
had to go to Davio’s to get them.”
iced tea, besides that guy, Arnold
DiFillippo spent the 1990s with his
Italian such as veal parmesan, eggplant
Palmer?
restaurant
original Davio’s in Boston, including
parmesan, or spaghetti and meatballs.
owner Steve DiFillippo took Northern
expansions in the immediate region.
Although years ago DiFillippo resisted
Italian cuisine and married it with a
Although he found success, today’s
meatballs on the menu, he succumbed
steakhouse, patrons were dazzled by
Davio’s
to the pressure and added them to the
the delicious union.
visited Philadelphia.
that
perfect
marriage
didn’t
dishes you could get anywhere. You
butter and jelly would be the famous combo it is today? Or how could we predict the power of lemonade and When
veteran
evolved
Davio’s patrons won’t find Americanized
after
DiFillippo
on
“Everything changed when I went to
Boston’s Newbury Street in 1985 and
Philly. I noticed great Italian restaurants.
DiFillippo
started
Davio’s
1 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
antipasti section, using his mother’s meatball recipe. Of course they are a hit. DiFillippo says Davio’s Bolognese
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
sauce uses three different meats and
He explained, “People who work
simply “is the best.” (Reporter’s Note:
here care so much about this place. I
As Bolognese experts in our own
get more emails about our staff and
right, Team Reinhart enjoyed a bowl of Bolognese at Davio’s and…well… Steve is right!) He also raved about the light, potato-based gnocchi, as well as an 18 ounce porterhouse veal chop. When
scanning
today’s
menu,
patrons will find a litany of exquisite Italian dishes—such as lobster risotto served with asparagus in a lobster
their attitude than I do about the food. It’s more than the food. There’s so much more to a restaurant than food, because how many times do you go to a restaurant and the food is great, to a place, and the food isn’t that
FINANCING.
great, but you had such a great time.”
He sees too many restaurants try to expand without the proper financing. Collect as much money as you can before making the decision to grow.
Davio’s may keep the team members
such as filet mignon, rib eye steak and
happy with health insurance and paid
New York sirloin.
vacations, but the most important
One of DiFillippo’s practices is
benefit is respect for one another in a
innovation. From 70% to 75% of his
family environment.
menu changes several times a year.
Davio’s
and
its
team
customer. They
his distributor for new ingredients, DiFillippo and his kitchens stay current,
members
do whatever it takes to satisfy the
and pushing
One of DiFillippo’s practices is innovation. From 70% to 75% of his menu changes several times a year.
fresh, and ready to serve
contribute their
product
and services to charities, food donations,
and community events.
the next best thing.
DiFillippo wants to attack the market
learning from the hall of famer
and maintain the connection with customers and potential customers.
As DiFillippo illustrates in his recently
And he isn’t afraid to do the work
released book, It’s All About the
himself – he once drove an hour to
in
deliver a gift card to a customer who
Business and in Life, he stays focused
needed to present it that day.
Guest:
Exceeding
Expectations
on the culture he cultivated from the beginning. Davio’s doesn’t call their people
“employees,”
but
“team
“If
you
have
an
ego
in
this
business, you’re not going to be here
members” or “inner guests.” There
very long,” he says, adding that the
are two types of guests at Davio’s
restaurant business is a true calling.
– guests coming through the back
“You either love to service guests or
door for work, and the guests coming
you don’t.”
through the front door for a meal. DiFillippo’s opinion is “treat them both
STEVE DIFILLIPPO SAYS:
but you don’t go back? Then you go
cream sauce, and steakhouse favorites
Upon eating out, traveling, reading,
THINKING ABOUT EXPANSION?
LOCATION. Go where the people are. There may be exceptions to this rule, but having your location in a high-density area means more traffic. Find the market’s lifestyle centers. With that, learn the fabric of your market and understand your potential customers. DO IT FOR YOU, NOT YOUR STAFF. Your sous chef may want to run his or her own restaurant, but don’t let it solely influence the decision. This is especially true if you move your restaurant concept to a completely different market. A sous chef in New York may not be the right fit for a restaurant in Atlanta.
>>
as equals.”
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 9
“Every year, we’re thinking ahead, whether
it’s
just
ripping
down
a
wall and expanding. We have a very entrepreneurial spirit,” McDonald said. The
original
convenience
store
downsized as supermarkets boomed in the 1980s, and the McDonalds wanted to provide customers a more casual environment beyond grocery shopping.
Their
bakery/deli/market
concept (under one roof) timed out well, as they knew the supermarkets would outprice them if they stagnated with a convenience store. Now, the David Greenwood
space is a pasta, pizza, panini deli, self-serve yogurt bar, and healthy kitchen section—with a 100-seat food court for dining. “[We’re] trying to keep the local feel of a family-run business, it
the common market restaurants QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS
J
independent.
Keep
a
keep
regular
touch, married with the chain-driven approach – good with systems and structure
and
behind-the-scenes
organization. We see that marriage as the Holy Grail,” McDonald explained.
jumping on yo-trend ust outside of Boston, a family business has flourished for decades by dabbling in a little
bit of everything – and finding out how to work it. From their humble convenience
store
on
one
street
“We
give
[patrons]
all
different
eateries from casual to formal, and at different price points.”
The
McDonalds’
opened
the
ownership
self-serve
group
yogurt
bar
a couple of years ago, and saw
We’d dare to say if you requested a new
tremendous success by capitalizing
business, perhaps the McDonald family
on a growing trend. Since then, they
would oblige. And turn it into a success.
have opened two more locations.
Market Restaurants pull patrons with
adapting to the (super)market
revenue and the health angle.
a food court, pizza, subs, a yogurt
McDonald started working with his
bar, a French café, a pub and grille, a
dad at age seven when the only
chowda house, and plenty of private
establishment was a convenience store.
corner to the multi-eatery red brick building across the way, The Common
banquet space for prospective brides. Greg
McDonald,
owner
of
The
Common Market Restaurants, said,
2 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Greg McDonald appreciates both the According to the American Society for Nutrition, U.S. Dietary Guidelines for Americans call for three servings of low-fat or fat-free dairy daily. With
As the business matured, so did his role,
that consumption, Americans would
resulting in a multi-business operation
improve bone health and reduce the
the family runs today.
risk of cardiovascular disease, and
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
type-2 diabetes, and lower blood
peer-to-peer
pressure
of a buying group are among the
in
adults.
(Reporter’s
counseling
as
part
Note: Yogurt is a dairy product.)
tools they use to keep current with
McDonald and family decided
business trends and the industry.
to
further.
McDonald enjoys the research part
take
the
concept
“I
try
to
stay
out
of
the
advice business. I can talk from experience,” he said. “It’s a tough business, and you must be willing to
distribute
of the business – his mind is always
be committed to the customer first.
the entire product line in New
looking and moving forward, such as
You don’t do this for the money, but
England, resulting in a separate
adapting to the social media boom by
for the joy. There is no finish line,
They
broker
and
family company. The entity also aids
aspiring
consultation,
yogurtists setup,
and
with other
creating pages, engaging customers, and building their base.
help as they look to open their
The McDonald
own businesses.
family may have
always moving forward Operators
often
ask
themselves,
100 plans in the pipeline, and implementing one
and we’ll keep evolving.” >>
“It’s a tough business, and you must be willing to be committed to the customer first. You don’t do this for the money, but for the joy. There is no finish line, and we’ll keep evolving.”
“What should we do next?” The
or two each year
Common Market Restaurants’ way to
puts their business
decide? Tons of industry publications,
in an ideal position,
a half-dozen industry emails, and
according to McDonald.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 2 1
“[My uncle and father] sensed a trend that craft beers were coming. Now, we’re selling more Sam Adams than anything else,” said Burke. Needless to say, letting Koch showcase his beer paid off for Doyle’s and put its shining star on every tourist map of Boston. Doyle’s runs a trolley from the restaurant
to
the
Samuel
Adams
brewery down the road.
After a
brewery tour, patrons return for a Sam Adams pint and, if they’d like, a fresh ground beef Braddock Burger or a cup of their famous clam chowda. David Greenwood
hustle, hustle, hustle Hard work is valued across the board at Doyle’s Café, and Burke knows it all starts with him. As he said, it may be scary to get into the head of a restaurant owner in the morning
doyle’s café
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
–
myriad
concerns
pop
into
his
head – not because the operation is sputtering, but because Burke and his staff view Doyle’s as a home. To reach the level of greatness the team aspires to, Burke boils it down
B
to three key things – atmosphere,
oston staple. Tradition. Institution. Pick your word describing a must-visit stop for
Boston Lager on tap, or was the site including Celtic Pride (1996), Academy
any Boston-area visitor, and you have
greet every customer at the door with
Award®-Winning Mystic River (2003)
the enthusiasm and hospitality of a
and 21 (2008).
family member.
sam adams effect
“We have very good food—high-end
Doyle’s Café. This tucked-away place screams nostalgic Americana just as New England would want you to have it.
Pictures of politicians, celebrities,
for scenes in several Hollywood films,
people, and consistency. He wants to see his bartender and host/hostess
pub food—or comfort food as we like to call it. And ice-cold beer,” Burke said,
clippings
More than 20 years ago, a young man
cover the walls, offering a historical
named Jim Koch walked into Doyle’s
backdrop for your burger and beer.
Café with a 6-pack of beer he’d brewed.
Owner Gerry Burke sat down with
He sat down with Burke’s father and
Restaurant Inc, bringing a high dose of
uncle to talk about the beer. The rest
humility and a gentle smile. Listening
is history. A working relationship was
that and do what it takes to make
to Burke, he doesn’t let on that Doyle’s
struck, and Doyle’s became the first
customers happy. (As we learned,
was the first bar to put Samuel Adams
pub to put Samuel Adams on tap.
that sometimes means climbing over
athletes,
and
newspaper
2 2 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
adding that they are cornerstones of the operation. Consistency, he says, is critical. From service to food, patrons want to know exactly what they’re going to get every time. Servers know
IN OUR COMMUNITIES
booths because our camera setup was in the way!)
work. Okay, he may be toying with adding an outdoor patio.
Bottom line for Burke: “If it’s good enough for your wife and kids to eat, it’s good enough for everyone else.” Keep the standard.
His uncle and father are still involved with the operation, and Burke understands the importance of good communication when dealing with them. They may not always agree, but all concur on the common goal: keep Doyle’s Café flourishing.
the torch of tradition Burke doesn’t foresee many changes for Doyle’s. He intends to stay the course, making adjustments as necessary but overall maintaining everything that makes his place great – Sam Adams beer, good food, and hard
As for his advice for peers or potential peers, Burke said, “Go slow. Find your niche. Find your
place; location is obviously very important. And work hard. We are family-first. We try to make everyone [that walks in that door] comfortable and a part of the family.” n
Bottom line for Burke, “If it’s good enough for your wife and kids to eat, it’s good enough for everyone else.”
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 2 3
O P E R A T I O N S
Greener Pastures for America’s Restaurants by Jeff Zimmerman
W
ith Americans spending more than half of their food consumption dollars on meals prepared away from home, the menu isn’t the only variable that’s influencing who’s being seated inside the nearly one million restaurants nationwide. Consumer demand for green practices is also playing a key role in how restaurants do business and how well they do it. The sustainability movement and adopted practices which reduce waste and are more energy efficient is more than just a here-andnow pursuit industry-wide. The Green Restaurant Association is a Boston-based non-profit whose mission for the past 23 years has been to provide official certification for green restaurants in the U.S. Founder and CEO Michael Oshman claims consumers are clear about where they prefer to dine. “It’s all about transparency,” Oshman said. “It begins with the need for restaurant vendors and distributors to be transparent. The products they sell to restaurants must be certified and trusted so consumers can trust restaurants that claim to be green.” When the GRA commissioned Technomic, a recognized and experienced marketing research firm serving the food industry, to survey consumers, 79% acknowledged preferring green restaurants. According to Technomic’s Kelly Weikel, “While sustainability will never trump things like taste, price and convenience, they can make a difference in helping to develop a relationship and ultimately bring the customer back.” More importantly, the figures reveal that an overwhelming number want the claims to be verified. “It’s not about PR spin,” said Oshman, “It’s about restaurants becoming more sophisticated
2 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
and relying on valid certification because their customers’ loyalty is at stake.” Perennial Virant, a restaurant in Chicago’s trendy Lincoln Park district, aims to not only feed the world but also leave it a better place. Chef Ed Sura and his team have jumped on board a key aspect of the green commitment by turning to local farmers, where 95% of the vegetables they use in their kitchen originate. “We want to support local businesses, especially when their green philosophies match up with ours and, in doing so, eliminate excessive amounts of fossil fuels required to move product from the farms to the restaurant,” said Sura.
It’s not about PR spin. It’s about restaurants becoming more sophisticated and relying on valid certification because their customers’ loyalty is at stake. Michael Oshman | Founder & CEO Green Restaurant Association
Ken Dunn runs the non-profit Chicago Resource Center, training staff at Perennial Virant and at least 30 other restaurants on the benefits of composting, a recycling process in which food waste is converted into nutrients and cycled back into the soil. Besides the environmental payoff, Dunn points out that it’s all about placing as much priority
on taking out the garbage as the staff’s hospitality and the food presentation. “For a restaurant that’s invested in the process, doing anything second rate is unacceptable,” said Dunn. “The staff takes pride in the highest standards.” Perennial Virant’s Chef Sura supports that argument and added, “The entire staff is on board with what we’re doing. They’re proud to stand for that.” It’s a claim that points back to the Technomic study revealing that 78% of employees prefer to work at certified green restaurants. Making a difference for the planet’s sake can also make a difference in a restaurant’s bottom line. The EPA estimates that 80 percent of energy use in restaurants is unnecessary, due to broken-down or outdated equipment. Switching to green cleaning supplies to wipe down countertops and mop kitchen floors is undeniably better for the planet and our overall health. Though some argue these products cost more, the big picture reveals something else entirely. Jim Randall, Sr. V.P. of Operations at Federal Building Services, a company specializing in providing maintenance and janitorial services to clients nationally, including restaurants, disputes claims that cost is even an issue. “The fact is, many concentrated forms of commercial cleaning supplies containing hazardous ingredients require an expense-laden, complex protocol for proper disposal. At the end of the day, it comes down to making the right decision that is good for the environment,” said Randall. Where will it end? All signs point to the fact that it probably won’t. Sustaining sustainability is an ongoing process, with new and
For a restaurant that’s invested in the process, doing anything second rate is unacceptable. The staff takes pride in th e hig he st st an da rd s. Ken Dunn Founder & Director Chicago Resource Center
effective methods to maintain the process advancing every day. From properly eliminating waste, using toxic-free cleaning products and energy efficient technologies, and finding local outsourcing and distribution in addition to providing healthier menu items for their customers, more and more restaurants have the “green light” in their ongoing push for greener pastures. According to the GRA’s Oshman, “The conversation has shifted from businesses asking ‘should we do this’ to ‘how should we do this?’ n
AT YOUR
Service! We provide a complete beverage and chemical program to meet all your needs.
ASK ABOUT OUR EQUIPMENT LEASE PROGRAM! Ask your sales consultant for more information or email skesner@rfsdelivers.com
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 2 5
Foodie-favorite chicken and waffles has gone mainstream, spawning healthier vegetarian versions that replace the fried meat with ingredients like roasted Butternut Squash, candied pecans, and fried sage leaves
2 6 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
by Markon®
Getting to the Root of Fall Produce After months of sweet corn, juicy tomatoes, and plump strawberries, it is difficult to envision a fall menu full of fresh produce. Traditional cold-weather foods tend to be heartier and cooked for longer periods—think casseroles and stews— but don’t rule out fruits and vegetables just yet, for there is a bevy of seasonal choices that will keep your menu stocked with healthy and delicious options. Although the spring and summer months offer delicate items such as asparagus, green garlic, pea shoots, and ramps, the fall months bring us earthy, comforting root vegetables like squashes, pumpkins, carrots, and yams. And with the changing of the leaves, our senses align perfectly to elevate these flavor profiles. Get inspired to create your seasonal menu with these ideas full of vibrant colors, bold textures, and cooking techniques that maximize flavor. n
5
Fall Produce Menu Ideas Balance the bitter, peppery flavors of Ready-Set-Serve®
Gluten-free gnocchi? Substitute cleverly carved Butternut
(RSS) Wild Arugula with the sweetness of roasted Butternut
Squash cubes for the potato pasta to pump up the vitamin
Squash, and the umami notes of shaved Parmesan cheese
and fiber content; season with MFC Sage, pomegranate seeds, and chopped pistachios
Offer the simple, yet classic French side dish ratatouille: chop and roast Markon First Crop (MFC) Zucchini and Yellow
Hand-held treats are very on-trend; instead of serving slices,
Squash, MFC Eggplant, RSS Peeled Garlic, MFC Yellow
update the traditional sweet potato pie by baking the subtly
Onions, MFC Red Bell Peppers, MFC Roma Tomatoes, and
spicy filling in empanada dough
MFC Thyme
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 2 7
FOOD
&
BEVERAGE
HOLY TUNA! Q & A w i t h t h e C a p t ’n
FOLLOW Him on Twitter!
Captain Dave Carraro @TunaDotCom
#ITSFORTHEKIDS In June of this year, Captain Dave attended Reinhart’s Traditions Sales & Merchandising Conference as a celebrity guest. By generously donating a couple trips on Tuna.com, Captain Dave helped Team Reinhart raise nearly $40,000 for charity, benefiting the Light Foundation and Northern Illinois Food Bank. THANK YOU, CAPTAIN DAVE! photo courtesy of the National Geographic Channel 2 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Restaurant Inc sat down with Gloucester, Massachusetts-based fishing king Dave Carraro, captain of the vessel of Tuna.com and star of National Geographic Channel’s Wicked Tuna. RESTAURANT INC: When you think about your career, what are the first thoughts that come to your head? DAVE: My career endeavors are fishing, fishing and fishing and a little bit of flying commercial jet planes.
RI: Before preparing to go out, what details do you consider? Need for a specific size fish? Weather? Crew? Equipment?
DAVE: Before heading out on a multi-day trip, we must fuel up the boat, carry enough provisions for the duration of the trip, go through our maintenance checklist and decide where we will be fishing. A lot of money is invested into each trip, so we need to be fully prepared and be on our “A” game all the time in order for a productive trip.
RI: Do you eat tuna? If so, what is your favorite way it’s prepared? If not, why?
DAVE: Sad and funny to say, I do not eat tuna. Tuna is best prepared by someone other than myself.
RI: How long does it take to haul in an 800-pound tuna? What is that process like?
DAVE: Hauling in a tuna can take anywhere from 5 minutes (our shortest battle for a 1056 pounder) to as long as 12 hours (our longest battle, 850 pounds). Just like us, every fish is different. The bigger fish does not necessarily mean a longer battle. A fish can take us up to as far as 12 miles away from where it was initially hooked. Tuna can swim up to 40 miles per hour.
“Sad and funny to say, I do not eat tuna.
RI: Considering you are the beginning of that process from sea to
Tuna is best prepared by someone other than myself.”
plate, what would you want a restaurant to know about tuna?
DAVE:
Bluefin tuna, from what I am told, is best eaten raw or pan seared. The toro (belly) is the most desired part of the tuna because it contains the most fat content. It is also the most expensive part of the fish.
RI: What’s your favorite restaurant in New England? DAVE: My favorite restaurant in New England is The Causeway Restaurant and it just happens to be right across the street from our dock. Show up early or late or wait in line.
RI: What sort of camaraderie exists between fishermen?
THE CAUSEWAY RESTAURANT 78 Essex Ave Gloucester, MA 01930
DAVE:
WICKED TUNA
Captain Dave Carraro stars on National Geographic Channel’s Wicked Tuna, which will return for its third season in early 2014. Be sure to stay tuned!
Or are you simply competitors? Most of the fishermen I work with are all friends, however we are also competitors. No one in our working group wants to see the other fail, however each of us wants to out-fish the other, much like playing a game of golf with friends.
RI: If you could be in any other profession, what would it be? DAVE: There is no other profession that I would want to do other than be a commercial tuna fisherman and a commercial pilot. Both occupations complement one another and pay more money than I need. The way I see it is I get paid to play. n
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 2 9
T R E N D I N G
N O W
what’s trending now? What should you be looking at? Do these ideas fit your operation? Instead of trying to answer a bunch of rhetorical questions, check out Reinhart’s Trending Now topics as your guide. You will see what we’ve noticed in the foodservice industry. Keeping your finger on the pulse is the only way to know what your customer’s hearts are beating for. See trends that aren’t listed here? Email magazine@rfsdelivers.com to submit your trending topic!
Retro products like hot chocolate, cheese crisps and banana pudding.
Reinvented frozen treats.
Global meal starters—curry sauces, Greek cooking sauces, simmer sauces from Africa, pot roast meal starter. Domestic salami and sausage made from only 100% Berkshire pigs or other rare breeds. Roasted chickpeas, roasted seaweed, flavored kale snacks.
New goat milk cheeses, ripened and aged in French and Italian tradition; goodies made from goat milk, including yogurt, butter, chocolate, cookies, caramel sauces, candies.
Be your own mixologist, with cocktail bitter, Bloody Mary mix, tea crafted for cocktails.
Tea in new formats—ice pop, Asian bubble tea.
All things coconut: Beyond water, there’s virgin coconut oil touted as healthy and vegan friendly, coconut cheese, coconut ice cream, coconut chips.
what’s still trending? Standing their ground firmly…Some trends hold their steam and live to see another season. If you haven’t hopped on the bandwagon, you may want to capitalize while there is still time. But be on the lookout, there’s no guarantee! Below is a list of what we think has some “staying power”.
80% of consumers believe it’s important for restaurants to feature more produce; 82% of operators believe produce will be more important to their operation in the next few years.
3 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Innovations in gluten-free foods, including breads made with brown rice and millet, glutenfree pasta and sauces, cookies, crackers.
Drinking vinegars: Mixing a tinge of vinegar into your drink or cocktail can add some complexity and savory overtones that may just have you coming back for more. Try new flavors like lemon and malt.
Sources: Specialty Food Association, Epicurious.com, AdAge, Market Watch, Forbes, Dataessential
Roasted Pistachio Mascarpone Cake
N E W
G O U R M E T
C A K E S
a sight to be devoured
4 new flavors Roasted Pistachio Mascarpone Harvest Caramel Apple Chocolate Raspberry Duet Lemon Mousse Melody
For a special $10.00/case trial offer, visit
Harvest Caramel Apple Cake
bistrogourmetbakery.com. To learn more, contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant. FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 3 1
FOOD BREAKDOWN
Big Beefy Grins?
photos by Dan Coha Peppercorn 3 2 R F S D ERubbed L I V E R S . CFlat O M Iron FA L LSteak: 2 0 1 3 Recipe on page 102
1 0 , 0 0 0 Ye a r s of Evolution Says We're Hardwired f o r M e a t Worship
Aah, the irresistible lure of comfort foods, conjuring up images of childhood, family meals, happiness, warmth, and a completely sated stomach. With memories of the grill in the backyard, meat is growing to today’s ultimate comforting indulgence, defiantly carving out its juicy center of the plate status even while surrounded by mounds of nutritious fruits, vegetables and grains. >> FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 3 3
We have stats to back us up. For instance, a recent study from the Center for Culinary Development and Packaged Facts shows consumers of every age turning to roasted meats as their No. 2 choice for comfort food (sweets was No. 1). Baby Boomers opt for classic braised meats and casseroles, and Generation X goes the fast-food route with hamburgers and burritos, but the magic is all in the meat. While there’s plenty of anecdotal evidence to prove that a big, juicy steak improves one’s day, there’s scientific corroboration, too. According to another study in The Journal of Psychotherapy and Psychosomatics, consumption of red meat halved the risk of clinical depression and anxiety in women. Even the Mayo Clinic admits to the power of fatty meats: their recent study of seniors aged 70-plus showed those who turned to carbs and sugar were four times more likely to develop cognitive impairment than those whose diets were high in fat and protein. Fish gotta swim, man’s gotta eat meat. That urge to tuck into a succulent piece of freshly cooked meat may not even be a conscious choice, but hardwired into what makes us human. Anthropologists tell us that our enzymes evolved to digest meat, which aided brain and physical growth, while the very act of hunting for meat developed language and socialization. Back in the day, throwing meat on the fire for the tribe meant life was sustained for at least a few more days, a feel-good moment that triggered the chemicals dopamine and serotonin. More than 10,000 years later, that link between high-fat, highcalorie foods and feelings of contentment and relief keeps the carnivore craving alive—even the most dedicated vegan will admit to an occasional fleeting but quickly suppressed yen for a buttery piece of veal falling off the bone or a crisply fried piece of bacon. Yes, please!
On the Lamb Lamb on the menu signals high quality, with prices to match. In fact, the more expensive the restaurant, the more likely it is to feature a lamb dish, generally chops, shanks or rack of lamb, according to Food Genius.* While the average $13–$15 price tag might be a bit rich for the fast casual and family restaurant diner, there are other ways to jump on the lamb bandwagon, through ethnic dishes like Middle Eastern kabobs, Indian biryanis and Greek gyros. Chefs nationwide are grilling (31%), marinating (22%), roasting (19%) or cooking (14%) their lamb, primarily in DC, HI, CA, MD and NY. Midwest restaurateurs, your move.
Pork Takes Over The fastest growing protein in the US for the past two years, pork reached a record-breaking 9.25 billion pounds in 2013, according to Technomic. Fueled by the eternal allure of bacon, and the surging popularity of carnita meat—a traditional Mexican preparation of pulled or diced pork—pork outpaced the growth of the foodservice industry. Newer cuts add value, such as pork shoulder, pork knuckle and country style ribs.
3 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
FOOD BREAKDOWN
The ultimate Italian comfort food. Pochetta satisfies the primal urge for meat in wholly unforgettable fashion. Made traditionally with a whole pig, the body is gutted, deboned, stuffed with meat, fats and skin, rolled, and wood roasted. We’ve made it much easier with fresh pork belly and pork loin, but equally memorable, oozing with fennel-flavored juices on the inside, and crispy crunch on the outside.
Porchetta: page 102 FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 3 5
Havana Roast Pork: page 102
3 6 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
FOOD BREAKDOWN
Get a Reaction
Veal Makes the Meal
Don’t skip the browning when you cook beef, because it creates unique flavors and aromas that can only be produced through dry heat. According to Beef Culinary Innovation Center, temperatures of 350°F or higher on the surface of the beef cause the sugar and amino acids to caramelize into intense flavors and aromas. Called the Maillard Reaction, after the French scientist who discovered it, it’s the reason beef stew has a richer flavor when the beef, vegetables and flour are browned before adding the liquid. Everything from baked goods to coffee beans also benefit from this complex reaction caused by higher heat.
Veal joins the meat party with a whiff of elegance and upscale profile in classics like osso buco, frenched rib chops, or lovingly braised shoulder rib. But its highend reputation belies its down-home appeal in more casual items such as burgers, sliders, kabobs and meatballs. Some cuts to consider:
Stick to the Ribs Short ribs, braised long and slow, are showing up everywhere, beloved by chefs for their succulent versatility—marinated in red wine a la Tom Colicchio, bubbling in thick tomato sauce, artfully blended with dark beer, or simply simmering in a hearty beef stock. More than half the time, they’re paired with some equally comforting vegetables, according to Food Genius.*
– Potatoes – Onions
– Mushrooms – Peppers
Veal Flat Iron and Veal Petite Tender: require no tenderizing, and make a superb center of the plate presentation. Broil, grill, slice into medallions. Veal Shoulder Tender and Veal Shoulder Filet Tender: use for kabobs, slice into medallions. Boneless Veal Shoulder Rib: braise for maximum tenderness; try slow cooking in veal stock, white wine and mirepoix. New cuts from the veal square cut chuck include: Serratus Ventralis – a boneless shoulder rib Infraspinatus – Flat Iron Supraspinatus – shoulder tender Triceps brachii – shoulder filet Teres Major – petite tender n [Source: Beef Checkoff]
– Garlic – Radish
* Food Genius 2013 report, based on 300,000 operator locations and 100,000 unique restaurant menus.
Raising the Steaks Fresh meat? In addition to the undisputed kings of the steak plate—porterhouse, t-bone, New York strip—value meats are making the cut in increasing numbers. FROM THE SHOULDER CLOD: Flat Iron, Petite Tender, Petite Tenderloin Medallions, and Ranch Steak FROM THE ROUND: Sirloin Tip Side Steak, Sirloin Tip Center Steak, Western Griller Steak, and Western Tip FROM THE CHUCK ROLL: America’s Beef Roast, Boneless Country-Style Beef Chuck Ribs, Delmonico Steak, Denver Cut, and Sierra Cut AND THIS ONE’S NOT STAYING IN VEGAS: The newest sizzle surrounds the Vegas Strip Steak®, developed by researchers at Oklahoma State University and a chef from David Burke’s Primehouse in Chicago who perfected, and patented, a technique for producing steak from the muscle that’s comparable to a boneless strip. FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 3 7
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O P E R A T I O N S
BUSINESS CONTINUITY: FOOD FOR THOUGHT What keeps you up at night?
Lions and tigers and bears? What about food-borne illness, natural disasters and stolen credit-card information? Restaurants and other foodservice businesses will benefit from having a business continuity program that provides assurance that if something “bad� happens, doors can kept open and customers continue to be served.
BY LYNNDA NELSON, PRESIDENT, ICOR
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LYNNDA NELSON, PRESIDENT, ICOR As President of ICOR, Lynnda manages day-to day-operations of ICOR University. ICOR University offers education and certification in business continuity management, crisis management and communications, data-center management, emergency management, organizational resilience, social resilience and supply chain risk management globally. Lynnda also serves as professor for Norwich University’s Master’s of Business Continuity Management program. She has written and teaches seminars on Business Continuity Management, Continuity of Governmental Operations and Developing a Resilient Organization.
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O P E R A T I O N S
What are business continuity procedures?
Like most small businesses, restaurants can be vulnerable to a business interruption because of their size and reliance on a consistent customer base. One benefit of being a small business, however, is the ability to be more agile and to implement change much more quickly than larger and more complex organizations. So how do you get started?
Make A List Make a list of all the business concerns that gnaw at your peace of mind. It might include risks such as employee health and safety concerns, the quality and on-time delivery of fresh food from suppliers, damage to the physical property, a weather-related event that impacts the community and cuts off electricity or water supply, a food-borne illness outbreak or customer credit card information stolen by an employee or hacker.
Identify Your Most Popular Menu Items When an interruption occurs, it is important to have a plan for what you potentially can serve to keep the doors open, even if it means only a partial menu is available. If you can only serve 3 or 4 menu options, what will they be? If your restaurant is unavailable to serve guests can you institute meal delivering until you can safely re-open the property?
Mitigate The Chance Of Bad Things Happening Minimizing risk not only requires thinking about things that can happen, it also requires you to figure out how to limit direct and collateral damage.
What can you do to reduce the chance that employees will get injured or become sick at work? Do you have more than one supplier for your most popular menu items? Are you buying only from reputable, established suppliers? Do you have adequate insurance on your building and facilities? Can you invest in a generator? Can you implement procedures to limit the opportunity for employees to steal credit card information? Have you password protected and hack-proofed your IT systems? Do you rigorously follow HACCP protocols?
Identify & Document How To Work Under Less Than Ideal Conditions How can you replace missing skills and resources if employees are unable to work as usual? Are there past employees you call? Can you “borrow” employees from other locations, putting together an agreement with neighboring restaurant to “share” staff if one of you is impacted by a disaster? Can you utilize manual procedures and do it the old fashioned way until systems return to normal?
Identify Necessary Resources Do you have a way to quickly replace cooking and kitchen equipment? Do you have access to funds to tap during a crisis or disaster event to
purchase necessary items? Do you know where to quickly replace tables, chairs, dishes, cash registers and other necessary items?
Document Your Contingency Plans & Keep Them Handy Don’t write an academic thesis or whitepaper. Make your plans simple to understand and easy to use. Keep copies on-site and off-site so they can easily be accessed when needed.
Communicate, Communicate, Communicate. Make sure you have up-to-date contact information for employees, suppliers, utilities, insurance adjusters and emergency service personnel such as board-up services. If you are closed for a short time, how will you stay in front of your customers? How can you use your website and other social media tools to communicate with your customers? Do you need a public-relations professional to help handle external communications?
When Disaster Strikes, Record Record vital information about the incident, actions taken, and decisions made. Share this information with your insurance company. n
What will it cost? There are many free resources and reasonably priced options to get you started. The following are excellent sources of information and some provide templates as well.
n n n n n
Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety: www.disastersafety.org/open-for-business/ FEMA: www.fema.gov/protecting-your-businesses Ready.gov: www.ready.gov/business Interesting article: www.stoneroad.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/everyday-business-continuity-in-the-restaurant-industry/ Learn more – get educated! www.theicor.org
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N EW D ESIGN
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n the brave new food world, there’s no need to answer the chicken-egg conundrum. In fact, at San Francisco-based Hampton Creek, the chicken’s been knocked out of the equation altogether. Hampton Creek’s Beyond Eggs is positioned to stand in for this essential kitchen commodity. With a sustainable, plant-based product that boasts the benefits of real eggs though none of the drawbacks, they have drawn attention from backers including Bill Gates, earned their way into the Whole Foods network and are now ready to feed the future. >>
photo by Cody Pickens
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Cody Pickens
Kyle Domer
Jordan Viola
Jordan Viola
TEN QUESTIONS WITH JOSHUA TETRICK, FOUNDER AND CEO, HAMPTON CREEK RESTAURANT INC: Why does the world need plant-based eggs? JOSHUA: The current system of egg production is broken and
RI: How can restaurateurs benefit from Beyond Eggs? JOSHUA: We’ve seen sharp excitement at operations we’ve
can’t keep up with growing demand. In 2000, global demand was 14 million tons, and by 2030, it’s expected to climb to 38 million tons. That will require massive amounts of soy, corn, fertilizer and oil. Our goal is to create a new model by taking plant-based components and bringing them together to replicate the egg in a sustainable, safe, humane and affordable way.
visited because of the affordability and versatility of the product. They’ll be able to make just one type of coleslaw or potato salad to suit all types of customers because of the health attributes. We’re working with two Fortune 500 companies right now, so ultimately chefs and restaurateurs will be able to use products that contain our products. Some will want to call that out to their customers and let them know that what they’re eating is cholesterol free and plant based. Others might want to keep a lower profile and just benefit from the savings.
RI: How does Hampton Creek fulfill those goals? JOSHUA: Our egg product costs 18% less and is not subject to the volatility of the marketplace. It’s healthier, because it contains no cholesterol, and can be eaten safely by millions of people who have egg allergies or sensitivities. Food safety is assured because there are no concerns over antibiotic use or avian flu. We’re not competing against laying hens being fed naturally, but against industrial warehouses, with too many hens crammed in cages, never seeing the sunlight. To us, that simply doesn’t feel natural or good.
RI: How are they made? JOSHUA: We studied over 287 different types of plants and created 344 plant-based egg prototypes to come up with our flour-like mixes. The ingredients vary depending on application. For example, the main ingredient in “Just Mayo” is a pea protein, while in Beyond Eggs for cookies, it’s sorghum flour. The processing is done much like that of a flour mill, with speed, heat and pressure resulting in a product that has nothing synthetic in it.
RI: Who works on this with you? JOSHUA: We have a 27-person team that brings expertise to the table, including a culinary director who served as chef de cuisine at Chicago’s Michelin-starred MOTO restaurant, a biochemist who previously worked alongside a Nobel laureate, a senior food technologist from Otis Spunkmeyer, molecular biologists and food scientists. No one person has the answer, but we have the benefit of multiple and very different perspectives.
RI: How do you envision Beyond Eggs being used? JOSHUA: It’s an ideal, cholesterol-free substitute for eggs in any recipe — cakes, cookies, dressings, sauces. We also have a mayonnaise product that tastes better than the real thing. Just Mayo will be replacing Whole Foods’ mayo in prepared foods in select regions starting this September, and a consumer version will follow. We’re also working on a scrambled egg substitute. We’ve recently identified a plant native to South America that cooks up and tastes like a real egg. And in a couple of months, we’ll be rolling out a product called “Eat the Dough,” vegan, gluten-free and totally edible dough with sorghum as the main ingredient.
RI: How are you spreading the word? JOSHUA: Our grassroots support is phenomenal, with different groups rallying behind it for a variety of reasons — the environmental community, health conscious people who need to reduce cholesterol, vegetarians and vegans, people with egg allergies. They’ve all gotten the word out to newspapers, bloggers, and were even responsible for getting Whole Foods on board with us. Almost 100% of our marketing has come from people who believe in what we’re doing.
RI: How do you avoid pinning the “Frankenfood” label on your products?
JOSHUA: We call it “radical openness.” Our R&D facility has wide open windows and people can look in and see what we’re doing. We give tours all the time, invite the press to roam around and talk to anyone they’d like. We don’t genetically engineer anything. Everything we are working on already exists in nature. It’s just the start. About 92 percent of plants haven’t been explored for how they can be converted to food. RI: What did Bill Gates’ backing mean to Hampton Creek? JOSHUA: It was an incredible validation to be selected as one of three companies shaping the future of food. We’re thrilled that he recognizes our technology and approach as one that can help solve the problem of feeding nine billion people by 2050.
RI: We’ve saved the most important question for last — how does the taste compare to real eggs?
JOSHUA: We think it tastes better! Our mayonnaise, for instance, gets rave reviews because the other flavors are more distinct. “Cleaner taste” is the comment we hear most. And just about no one can tell the difference in blind taste tests of cakes and cookies made with our product. You know the compromises we always have to make? If it’s healthier or sustainable, it may not taste as good. We’ve flipped those all on their head. There is a way for people to eat delicious food that’s more affordable and better for the world. n FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 4 5
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Oktoberfest Fever [page 54]
Brewery Spotlight
Vermont Pub & Brewery
[page 56]
[page 58]
WINTER ALES & SEASONALS DEFINED
Ales from A - Z
[page 48]
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Vermont Pub &burlington, Brewery vermont An omnipresent charm resonates at this brewpub in the heart of Burlington, Vermont. Patrons can feel it in the building, wafting from the food, and bubbling from the beer. Built within that charm is a passion for a community rallying behind the idea of good food, good beer, and good prices. It’s a lasting legacy of an individual, Greg Noonan, Vermont Pub & Brewery’s founder. Steve Polewacyk, current co-owner and best friend of the brewery’s late founder, explains the importance of securing that legacy and taking Greg’s philosophies into the future. “This place is all about Greg. Everything I do is because of him.”
Philosophy of Do Good Greg and Nancy Noonan started Vermont Pub & Brewery in 1988, bringing Polewacyk into the mix as their business partner from the beginning. From the beginning, Vermont Pub & Brewery has operated with handson ownership, the type of blood, sweat, and tears that comes from passion for their business.
Their values and commitment filter throughout the operation and it’s not just talk. General Manager Tammie Brownell has been with Vermont Pub & Brewery since their opening receiving diamond earrings as a 25th anniversary gift this year. And every employee receives a bonus each year, as they have for the past 21 years. “Everyone gets a piece of the pie,”
Polewacyk said. “And why not? What restaurant in this climate can offer bonuses and diamond earrings?” From the beginning, Noonan had a vision for the restaurant that has been the bedrock of their success for 25 years. “Good food, good prices, good service, good beer,” Polewacyk said. In that quartercentury, Polewacyk says they have >>
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“Thirty or so breweries opened after us (in Vermont), but we remained friendly and have great camaraderie. We look over each other’s shoulders, too, for ideas.”
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refused to gouge into customers‘ pockets, but have always supplied the highest value product at the right price.
Ins & Outs of a Pub The family culture, stemming from their genesis, is maintained in the nooks and crannies of the brewpub and brewery, as if a home. Polewacyk credits the
working dynamic as Greg Noonan’s. “If we can do it ourselves, we do it, from maintenance to graphics. We believe it is best to do it in-house,” said co-owner Tommy Noonan, and Greg Noonan’s nephew. “Greg was the big picture guy. I was the details guy,” Polewacyk said. “We were just lucky. It’s how the chips fell.”
E XPERIMEN TING Steve and Tommy experimented with the following flavors (among MANY others!): Chocolate (cocoa powder) Blueberry Pumpkin Apple Coffee (beans/grounds)
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There’s no luck about this fact; the owners brought a balance of skills that they refused to relinquish. And for any aspiring brewmaster or brewpub owner, Polewacyk knows the difficulties of both big and small picture perspective. He says the mechanically inclined individual paying attention to the details will have the leg up. The repair list could be extensive. Valves, pumps, hoses, leaks
and motors are just a few areas that require constant attention, not just to keep them working, but clean. Sanitary equipment is an absolute must for properly prepared beer. Polewacyk noted, “A good brewery doesn’t smell like beer. A good brewery smells like bleach.” (Reporter’s Note: Mr. Polewacyk said bleach emphatically.)
That Whole Beer Thing The American origins of craft brewing date as far back 1970s, trailblazing in the growing industry was Greg Noonan’s goal from the beginning. And it was never an ego thing. The man just loved beer and fellow brewers. “Thirty or so breweries opened after us (in Vermont), but we remained friendly and have great camaraderie. We look over each other’s shoulders, too, for ideas.” Tommy Noonan explained. The boys at Vermont Pub & Brewery love beer so much they
The Legend, Greg Noonan Listening to Steve and Tommy talk about Greg Noonan makes it feel as though he’s a close friend. Both glowed as they described their founder and his legacy that they shepherd. Beyond the brewpub, Greg involved himself in a number of ventures and accomplishments: Vermont brewers have Greg to thank in part for state legislation allowing on-premise consumption. His lobbying attempts opened doors that are growing in width by the day as craft brewing booms. His Vermont Pub & Brewery is the state’s oldest craft brewery. courtesy of Vermont Pub & Brewery
Published author: n Scotch Ale (Classic Beer Styles), 1990
can’t stop crafting new styles. In 2012, the brewery’s barrels saw nearly 80 different styles of beer, from sour tastes to chocolate mixtures. For 2013, Polewacyk says they will hit that same number. With 14 full barrels, and one half barrel for experiments, that trend isn’t going away. They brew a different style every week in the experimental barrel.
“Greg was never satisfied,” Polewacyk said. “He always wanted to try something different. Something little here, something little there.”
n New Brewing Lager Beer: The Most Comprehensive Book for Home and Microbrewers, 1996 [Reporter’s Note: A patron at the bar studied Greg’s book while enjoying one of their beers]
To stay competitive, Polewacyk and the young Noonan keep abreast of the industry’s happenings and future landscape.
n Seven Barrel Brewers Handbook, 1996 (Co-authored)
“Although there are a lot of trends, past couple years we’ve >>
SESSION BEER DEFINED According to Beer Advocate™ www.beeradvocate.com
session beer
Winner of Russell Schehrer Award for Innovation in Brewing by The Brewing Association in 2005 Painter/Artist
/seSH n bi( )r/
National Judge in the Beer Judge Certification Program
noun
Any beer that contains no higher than 5 percent ABV, featuring a balance between malt and hop characters (ingredients) and, typically, a clean finish —a combination of which creates a beer with high drinkability. The purpose of a session beer is to allow a beer drinker to have multiple beers, within a reasonable time period or session, without overwhelming the senses or reaching inappropriate levels of intoxication. (Yes, you can drink and enjoy beer without getting drunk.)
Wrote a comprehensive study on ancient Irish origins – visit www.anseanchas.com for more information
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seen IPAs [India pale ale] come on strong. And big beers are popular now, but we see session beers coming back,” Polewacyk said. Regardless, upon looking at the future, Polewacyk sees Vermont Pub & Brewery continuing as an anchor in the craft beer community. How about this for proof: Until this year, they didn’t distribute their beer and so far, to just one
establishment in the Burlington area. It was never about the money. “If people are begging to have our beer on tap, we’ll consider it,” Polewacyk said. “We want people to believe in our beer.” With that, Polewacyk and Noonan will be selective, considering a number of variables such as logistics, storing, and distribution.
market, Polewacyk tries to hold true to Vermont Pub & Brewery’s principles. Polewacyk says, “The craft brewery industry was built on the heels of love and passion for making a good beer.” Their love and passion aren’t going anywhere. n
When viewing their beer and their position in the craft beer
Cooking with Beer Here are signature beer-battered items Steve and Tommy have on their menu:
Steve says, “We have several highly successful items blending our beer with food. The first is beer batter that uses a malty beer to complement fish and chips, onion rings and fries. Second is house vinaigrette that uses a sour Belgian-style ale that lends complicated and unique flavors for our house salads. And third is a special batch of brownies that we make from time to time, where we use a Milk Stout that brings out some rich, chocolaty flavors.”
Although Vermont Pub & Brewery likes to try just about anything, meats and sauces are their favorites. But be wary, creative cookers, vegetables are constantly giving Steve and Tommy difficulties. It seems the mixtures don’t match properly.
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BREWHOUSE FRIES
BEER BATTER ONION RINGS
FISH N’ CHIPS (World-Famous!)
What have you used with beer batter? Email us at magazine@rfsdelivers.com or Tweet us at @ Reinhart_Corp!
Photos courtesy of Vermont Pub & Brewery
S
teve and Tommy divulged some of their thoughts on cooking with beer, and given the variety of styles in their arsenal, the possibilities are endless. Scanning the Vermont Pub & Brewery menu stokes the most conservative of palates. And it’s not a matter of throwing a brunch of magic potions into a mixing bowl. Steve, Tommy, and Co. are meticulous with matching flavor profiles as they match style with food.
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ktoberfest or Octoberfest or Märzen (which is March in German, the month the beer is brewed) are lager style beers, usually with a sweet maltiness, copper color, mild clean hop bitterness, and a full body. Though we’re thousands of miles away from the official Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany, there is no reason you can’t capitalize. Even if your city doesn’t have a celebration of its own, the appeal of Oktoberfest can be created in your restaurant with a bit of German-style beer, food and atmosphere.
SETTING THE SCENE Creating a certain kind of atmosphere might seem tricky, but in this case it’s really quite simple. Hiring an oompah band, decorating in cobalt and white (the Bavarian flag colors) or even having staff dress in traditional Bavarian costume (dirndls for ladies and lederhosen for the lads) are all feasible options for creating a celebratory Oktoberfest vibe.
FEEDING THE MASSES German food is hearty food: think Bavarian style pretzels and beer-battered bratwurst. If you want to offer sandwiches, consider the Bavarian Burger using Leberkäse (similar to bologna) instead of ground beef. Leberkäse is a favorite throughout Bavaria, and is available at most German delicatessens and food stores.
QUENCHING THEIR THIRST In the US, Oktoberfest has become a very popular style for brewers, resulting in many fantastic choices with far too many to list completely—especially when you consider the number of nationally distributed imported German Oktoberfest beers. Yet we wanted to give you a selection to pair with grilled meats like poultry, seafood and sausage on your menu this autumn. n
Fever
Oktoberfest
BROOKLYN OKTOBERFEST
LEINENKUGEL’S OKTOBERFEST
Brewed from German malt and hops, this is a true märzen style brew with a deep amber color and flavors of honey, malt and toast.
A bright-orange, well balanced beer with a rich and crisp flavor and mild bitterness.
FLYING DOG DOGTOBERFEST
PAULANER OKTOBERFEST
An inviting bright orangey brass-colored brew with a toasty malt aroma and a dryish finish.
Reddish-amber, richly malty, sweet brew with some fruitiness.
HARPOON OKTOBERFEST
SAMUEL ADAMS OCTOBERFEST
A full-bodied, smooth and malty balance in a garnet-red colored beer.
HEAVY SEAS MARZEN Toasted, biscuity character with a slight sweetness, which comes from the crystal malt. And although it’s available year-round, it’s at its finest in the fall.
LAKEFRONT OKTOBERFEST A malty, mineral, toasted bready brew with a faintly hazed reddish-amber color.
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Featuring five varieties of malted barley, the sweet flavor of caramel and toffee is balanced with bitter hops and roasted notes.
WARSTEINER OKTOBERFEST A smooth and festive beer with a goldenamber color and a delicate balance of hops and malty caramel flavors.
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FALL & WINTER ALES DEFINED G
ermany’s 16-day Oktoberfest is wrapped up, (September 21 – October 6) and you have likely already enjoyed a few great Oktoberfest beers. But neither Fall or the great Fall beer season is over; this time of year coincides with the release of some of the best Seasonal Ales. As the weather cools and you and your customers reacquaint yourselves with layers of sweaters, jackets and scarves, your change in wardrobe should signal a change in your beer menu. Summer was full of lagers and citrus-noted pale ales; Fall brings with it darker ales and hoppier brews to match the harvest season. Cooler temperatures coincide with more robust brews such as stouts, porters, barley wines, and
winter warmers, as well as Brown Ales, Pale Ales and Amber Ales. All of these Winter Ales pair perfectly with roast beef, smoked salmon and a variety of spicy dishes. Brewers focus on using seasonal ingredients to make warming, rich and hearty beers for the Fall and Winter. Fall means fresh ingredients straight from the field; hops, honey, chocolate malts, and savory spices. America’s craft brewers have been hard at work including Fall’s flavors in their latest seasonal releases. Out of the cornucopia of Fall seasonal beer choices, most are malty sweet with low-level balanced hop bitterness, and rang in color from brownish red to the nearly pitch black of stouts and porters. n
All beers are either Ales (brewed by top-fermenting yeasts) or Lagers (using bottom-fermenting yeasts). All the other beer styles you know are hybrids of either an Ale or a Lager. Lagers include Pilsners, which are popular in the US, as well as Oktoberfests’, Dortmunders, Bocks and Dopplebocks. Ales, not surprisingly, include everything with ale in the name (Pale Ale, Amber Ale, etc.) as well as Porters, Stouts, and Wheat Beers—and most Belgium and German specialty beers. Ales are generally more robust and often more bitter tasting then Lagers and are generally served a bit warmer than Lagers to ensure the cold temperature doesn’t dampen the full flavor.
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Many of the fall seasonal craft beers have flavor profiles that include pumpkin, squash, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, oatmeal, cocoa and espresso. Some of the hottest ales during the cooler weather come from the following breweries: Sierra Nevada, Ballast Point, New Belgium, Chimay, Blue Moon, Revolution, Dogfish Head, Half Acre, Lefthand Brewing Company, Firestone Walker, Southern Tier and Lagunitas.
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PUMPKIN ALES BLUE MOON PUMPKIN ALE – Brewed with the taste of vine-ripened pumpkin, allspice and cloves. Then, it's mixed with a touch of wheat for a smooth beer with a lightly spiced finish. DOGFISH HEAD PUNKIN ALE – Fullbodied brown ale with smooth hints of pumpkin and brown sugar. Brewed with pumpkin meat, brown sugar and spices. HEAVY SEAS GREATER PUMPKIN Greater Pumpkin is an imperial pumpkin ale brewed with autumnal spices and English malts and then bourbon barrel-aged to add vanilla oak to the finish. NEW BELGIUM BREWING PUMPKICK – A slightly sour pumpkin beer brewed with cranberries, pumpkin juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice, as well as cranberries and a touch of lemongrass before being aged in oak for a traditionally seasoned spiced ale with a kick.
PALE ALES & IPAS ANCHOR STEAM HUMMING ALE – Bold and full of hops, you will taste hints of citrus and tart flavors before a crisp finish in this beer. BALLAST POINT SCULPIN – A clear golden brew with long lasting white head, smelling of citrusy hops, biscuit malt and ripe fruit, this citrusy IPA has a hoppy finish. DAISY CUTTER PALE ALE – An American West Coast style Pale Ale chock-full of dank, aromatic hops. Super crisp and hoppy, it pours a light orange color with a big head and an intense citrus aroma.
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DESCHUTES BREWERY CHASIN’ FRESHIES FRESH HOP IPA – Featuring heirloom Cascade hops, this beer is a nod to the snow and hop enthusiasts with its bold, juicy aroma and flavor that comes but once a year. DOGFISH HEAD, SIXTY 1 – Dogfish Head's 60 Minute IPA with a hint of red wine is a complex, fruity brew with pungent hoppiness. FIRESTONE WALKER DOUBLE JACK – This Gold Medal Great American Beer Festival winner ferments in American oak barrels, which delivers a brew with extraordinary character and a clean, brisk finish. The influence of the toasted oak also imparts unique hints of smokiness and vanilla, as well as adding a subtle fruitiness to the flavor profile. SAM ADAMS, WHITE ALBION – Deep golden in color, this beer smells delicious with hints of citrus, hops, wheat, grass, and malt all hitting the nose at once to make for a fantastic and powerful aroma. SARANAC LEGACY IPA – A heavenly IPA with a great aroma and depth of flavor marking the brewery’s 125th anniversary. Brewed as collaboration between the original recipe from 125 years ago and a modern IPA, this beer has a blend of historic, traditional and innovative hops. The historic varieties used date all the way back to 1888, when F.X. Matt founded the brewery.
AMERICAN DARK / BROWN ALE ABITA PECAN HARVEST ALE – Made with real Louisiana roasted pecans, this brown ale has a nutty flavor that comes straight from the source. SIERRA NEVADA TUMBLER AUTUMN BROWN ALE – Named after the tumbling
FALL & WINTER ALES leaves of autumn, this ruby-colored ale has a caramel and malt flavor that is mildly bitter and balanced.
unfiltered wheat beer has a smooth, creamy finish that’s inviting to the palate.
SWEETWATER FESTIVE ALE – A reddish brown brew with a malty, chocolate taste and rich aroma of fruit and butterscotch.
WEIHENSTEPHANER, HEFEWEISSBIER A tremendous wheat beer from Germany and the oldest operating brewery in the world, this golden hazy colored, smooth brew with a subtle wheat flavor and a thick head pairs great with nearly any dinner.
STOUT & PORTERS ALLAGASH BLACK – A Belgian style stout brewed with a silky mouth-feel and tastes of roasted coffee and dark chocolate. DESCHUTES BLACK BUTTE PORTER – A dark brew with a mocha head, smelling of cocoa and malt it has hints of coffee and cocoa flavor and a smooth taste. FIRESTONE WALKER VELVET MERKIN – Decadent Oatmeal Stout lovingly aged in Bourbon barrels. Beautiful chocolate, espresso and vanillabourbon aromas hold your nose hostage. Rich dark chocolate truffle, bourbon and espresso create a dangerously smooth and incredibly drinkable barrel aged Oatmeal Stout. Great American Beer Festival twotime gold medal winner. LEFT HAND BREWERY, NITRO MILK STOUT Completely black color with a thick, creamy head, this brew smells like milky coffee. LEINENKUGEL’S SNOWDRIFT VANILLA PORTER – A flavorful, refreshing dark porter with a coffee and vanilla taste.
WHEAT BEER BLUE MOON, BELGIAN STYLE WHEAT ALE – Brewed with Valencia orange peel for a subtle sweetness, this natural
WINTER WARMER BOULEVARD NUTCRACKER – Nutcracker Ale is Boulevard’s holiday gift for real beer lovers. This hearty, warming brew is a classic winter ale, deep amber in color, with hints of molasses balanced by the “spiciness” of freshly harvested Chinook hops.
AMBER ALE NEW BELGIUM, FAT TIRE – A light copper colored, medium bodied beer with tastes of oak, toffee and caramel.
BARLEY WINE FIRESTONE WALKER DOUBLE DOUBLE BARREL ALE – DDBA is brewed at double strength. It is amazingly similar in many respects to Firestone’s barrel fermented DBA, and possesses everything loved about that beer times two. English caramel malts lend rich toffee character that pairs well with assertive medium toast American oak barrels. Part of the brewer’s Proprietor's Reserve Series, it’s a barrel-aged beer built to aged carefully. Storing in a dark place at or below 40°F will allow this barley wine to best age for several years.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 5 9
COFFEE IS OFTEN THE FIRST AND F I N A L I M P R E S S I O N A C U S TO M E R H A S O F YO U R O P E R AT I O N . M A K E I T C O U N T.
For a FREE Sample of Ridgeline Coffee go to www.ReinhartSample.com/coffee
or scan the QR Code.
6 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
FOOD & BEVERAGE
WARMING UP with winter cocktails
by Audarshia Townsend
As outside temperatures drop, bar sales benefit from tapping trends in the beverage arena and doing it with authenticity and style.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 6 1
FOOD & BEVERAGE
A
bar staff’s dreaded nightmare often occurs in the dead of winter. Barstools that sit empty during prime time on a Friday or Saturday mean a decrease in revenue and tips, a no-win situation all around. Happily, there are ways around that predicament.
Q: What makes a strong bar program? A strong bar program is one that truly expresses the nature of the particular concept, understands and listens to its audience and puts hospitality first and foremost. — Paul Tanguay, Tad Carducci The Tippling Bros., Mercadito Hospitality Chicago, Miami, New York A strong bar program is great hospitality and enthusiasm from the bar staff, and their ability to produce a drink list that’s relevant to the space, the location and the clientele. — Joy Richard Citizen Public House Boston, MA It really doesn’t matter if you’re pouring a shot and a beer or mixing the world’s most expensive cocktail. If you can’t do it with a friendly, cheerful attitude, you might as well find another occupation. — Jared Schubert The Monkey Wrench Louisville, KY I’m constantly learning from my coworkers and am inspired by what they do. We drive each other to learn as much as possible. One bartender’s excitement on any given subject spreads like wildfire and we all get into it. Our ability to work as one unit gives the guest an entertaining and enjoyable experience while keeping service running without a hitch. — Lucinda Weed Sylvain New Orleans, LA
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You don’t need to invest in expensive mixology programs or promotions, industry experts insist. All you need is a great attitude and dedication to the craft to be a success. And what to do to get those bodies in the seats on the coldest nights? They offer even more insightful advice guaranteed to be useful.
Q
: Would you consider yourself to have a strong following at your bar? We serve as many locals as tourists. It is always a wonderful feeling to see a familiar face, whether they are returning for their second time on a weekend getaway, or if it is a regular Tuesday date night. We create an atmosphere of hospitality that leaves guests with a desire to keep coming back.
q
— Lucinda Weed We have a fantastic group of regulars, both industry and non-industry, coming into The Citizen. I believe we have a very friendly and outgoing bar team and a very approachable cocktail and whiskey list for the general public. We take our jobs and our drinks seriously but don’t take ourselves too seriously. — Joy Richard Many of our bartenders have a strong regular following; most have developed these followings from establishments that they have worked at previously. Everyone at The Monkey Wrench has an inherent understanding of what hospitality is. — Jared Schubert
Q : What tips can you share to help a bar program pick up steam during cold winter months?
Social media is a great tool for keeping fans informed of what’s going on at your place. When it drops below zero or a big squall is coming, let people know that it’s warm and cozy where you are and that they need to throw on some mittens and moon boots and get there. — The Tippling Bros.
w
WA R M I N G U P with winter cocktails
We love throwing parties and events that relate to the seasons. For The Citizen, having an Irish Coffee party using the classic recipe by San Francisco’s famed Buena Vista in the middle of winter is a great way to get guests through the door. It implies warmth and community, and people know they are going to get a delicious, well-made drink. — Joy Richard
e
What we do is offer a “drink of the day,” one that can’t be found on our regular menu. Our social media presence goes up in wintertime. We find if you interact with guests while they might be stuck at home due to weather, they are more likely to choose your establishment when the weather is a bit better. Slashing prices in a time that is slow isn’t a really good business practice, but running very carefully chosen specials will help you get through the lean times. — Jared Schubert
Q
: How plugged in to the latest trends do you need to be to stand apart from your competitors? I think the biggest and best trends in recent years are the ideas of superior quality of ingredients and top-notch technique and knowledge behind the bar. —The Tippling Bros.
r
Research and development tends to be one of the greater perks of being a service industry professional. It is not only important to see what is being done at other bars and restaurants, it’s also a tremendous amount of fun. — Lucinda Weed
q PERA TE [Mercadito] 1 ½ oz black tea infused blanco tequila ¼ oz mezcal 1 ½ oz pear purée ¾ oz fresh lime juice ¾ oz agave nectar // PREPARATION // Shake all ingredients and pour into rocks glass. Garnish with chile pepper dusted pear slice.
w HOT TODDY 1 Tbsp ¾ glass 2 shots 1 slice
honey tea brandy lemon
// PREPARATION // Brew tea and fill a tall glass 3/4 full. Mix in honey. Mix in brandy shots. Add lemon slice and enjoy.
e THE CRIPPLER
See page 101 for the recipe.
r MEXICAN MULLED CIDER See page 101 for the recipe.
>>
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 6 3
FOOD & BEVERAGE << That really depends on what you’re trying to be as a bar. I don’t necessarily think keeping up with trends is the way to stand apart, but certainly understanding what your guests are looking for and being able to provide them with that is.
servers both locally and nationally. We all spend free time visiting friends in our own city and traveling across the country to sit at their bars to share a drink and a story.
— Joy Richard
You really don’t have to be plugged in to be successful. There are countless beverage programs in smaller cities that don’t get the national exposure of establishments that are located in larger cities. I guess it comes down to what you consider “successful” really is. Is it based on sales, national recognition or guests’ happiness? For me, the first and the third are most important.
You should know what new innovations are out there; it keeps the creative portion of your brain satisfied, as well as keeping you educated about new ways to do things. Not every new trend is right for every establishment. At the Monkey Wrench we’re currently doing cocktails on tap. This ensures our ability to serve a well-crafted cocktail quickly and consistently. — Jared Schubert
Q : How connected to the local and national bar community do you need to be in order to be successful?
What has happened to the “bar community” both regionally and nationally over the last few years has been an incredible boon for the “raising of the bar” of the industry as a whole. — The Tippling Bros. In our case, we have a lot of love and enthusiasm for our fellow bartenders and
— Joy Richard
— Jared Schubert
Q: What are some of your favorite cocktails to make during winter?
We tend to move toward full-bodied, richer cocktails, using lots of spices and comforting flavors. For these types of drinks, we like cognac, apple brandy, all manner of whiskeys and aged fortified wines like sherry and Madeira. It’s fun to play with variations on simple brown-spirit classics like Manhattans, Old-Fashioneds, Juleps and Flips during colder months.
I love a good Sazerac in the winter. It is the official cocktail of New Orleans and one of the earliest recorded cocktails. Of course it is a wonderful drink year ‘round, but the flavor profile of a Sazerac is particularly well-suited to winter. — Lucinda Weed I’m a fan of the stirred and strong in colder months. The Bijou is one of my favorites, along with Manhattan variations. We have a cocktail that I created for our opening list called the Ideal Manhattan (Bourbon, sweet vermouth, St. Germain, Angostura bitters, grapefruit bitters). It’s definitely a crowd pleaser and a great way to get someone who is new to brown spirits into drinking whiskey. — Joy Richard We typically stick to traditional drinks, ones that are pretty tried and true such as HotButtered Rum, Hot Toddy, and Tom and Jerry. We might mess with proportions just a bit to achieve the balance our guests prefer. We might also substitute our sweetener or spirit base to bring a new dimension of flavor to the drink. Our motto is if it’s not broken, don’t fix it. — Jared Schubert n
— The Tippling Bros.
t 1 lemon wedge Hazelnut Sugar 1 apple slice martini glass 1 ½ oz apple brandy ¾ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz Frangelico Ice
t // PREPARATION // Moisten the outer rim of a martini glass with the lemon wedge and coat lightly with the Hazelnut Sugar. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add the apple brandy, Cointreau, lemon juice and Frangelico. Shake well and strain into the prepared glass. Garnish with the apple slice.
6 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
photos by Dan Coha, styled by Mixologist Scott Huth
¾ oz Cointreau or other triple sec
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Vodka GONE LIGHT by Audarshia Townsend
>> photos by Drew Frigo, styled by Natalie Olsen FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 6 5
FOOD & BEVERAGE
M
att Light gushes about his latest venture as though he won another Super Bowl Championship ring. This offfield action is not as labor intensive as playing offensive tackle for the New England Patriots, but as part owner of Vermont-based KEEL Vodka, he knows there’s a lot of work to be done to successfully compete in the spirits field.
Matt Light
“It’s been an awesome ride so far,” said
Light further explained: “It’s a fun way
based on calories. We’re grain-based, a
Light about his involvement, which
to describe who we are and what we
wheat-based vodka,” he explained. “I really
includes the official launch (April 2013)
represent: ‘Stay Balanced’ with our lifestyle
got educated as far as vodka when I visited
in Rhode Island as well as its debut in
and how you live your life. The three of
the distiller. And there are a lot of small-
Massachusetts in August. “Everyone thus
us work very hard; you have to balance
far enjoys the product, which makes it
batch vodkas out there vying for the same
that work and fun. Even from an alcohol
easier for us. Nine times out of 10 we will
business. We really stand out because
standpoint; we’re at 50 proof. We’re kind
get (potential customers) to try KEEL and
we are the only premium light spirit on
of in that middle category where you can
fall in love with it and become part of the
the market and in the world.” They had
have a few drinks and not hate yourself in
briefly discussed creating a flavor-based
the morning. Our Stay Balanced motto is
vodka (e.g. cherry, cucumber), but decided
crew.” KEEL founders Bill Dessel and Tom
what we live by in our real lives.”
McGowan conceived the first-ever
Light’s football career didn’t allow him to
consumers to pair the spirit with whatever
indulge in many extracurricular activities,
flavors they wanted.
premium light vodka a few years ago and brought Light aboard soon after. The fitness-focused business partners wanted to create a spirit that complemented their active lifestyles. They’re hardcore seamen and fitness fanatics, but they also like to wind down with a good cocktail or two or
so he was pretty jazzed about absorbing everything he could about the production of this premium vodka. KEEL is produced in Idaho at the same distillery that makes American Harvest Organic Vodka.
against it because they felt it was best for
The team opted to launch KEEL in Rhode Island because of desirable demographics that include beach-goers, older college students and retired residents. They tripled their expectations, which compelled them
three. And KEEL’s slogan perfectly matches
“Our blend is similar to American
to make a big push into Massachusetts—
their mission: “Stay Balanced.”
Harvest, but there is a lot of difference
just in time for football season.
NIGHTWATCH
Sometimes a little more is needed to make it through. KEEL Vodka keeps things low calorie while espresso provides the boost needed to help you keep a sharp lookout as you navigate the night… INGREDIENTS • 1½ oz KEEL Vodka • ½ oz Kahlua • 1 shot of espresso • Splash of fresh lemon juice
DIRECTIONS 1. Add ingredients to rocks glass filled with ice and stir. 2. Garnish with twist of lemon, and away we go!
KEEL-Hauled Mary For more information on KEEL, visit keelvodka.com/ For more information on the Light Foundation, visit mattlightfoundation.org
The original was purportedly named for Mary Tudor, the vicious daughter of Henry VIII. We have taken the liberty of naming ours after the pirate Mary Read, who, as legend has it, joined the bloodthirsty pirate “Calico” Jack Rackham after he and his band attacked Mary’s ship bound for the West Indies. If you can’t beat them, join them. The added rum makes it easier to surrender! INGREDIENTS • 2 oz KEEL Vodka • 1 oz dark rum • 4 oz fresh tomato juice
“It’s a much larger state and a good challenge for us,” said Light about Massachusetts. “It’s been our game plan to think smart to build the brand loyalty.” Part of that brand-building loyalty is educating bartenders and restaurateurs on how to best sell KEEL, says Light. He acknowledges that drinkers tend to be loyal
• Splash of fresh lemon juice • Splash of fresh lime juice • Pinch of coarse black pepper or garlic powder • ½ tsp of horseradish • Splash of Tabasco sauce
to a particular brand, but they’re willing to
• Splash of Worcestershire sauce
try new products. He recommends that they
• Pinch of celery salt
sample KEEL over ice. “They all have the same reaction: ‘This is smooth.’” There are more plans in the works to build brand loyalty. Light says branded apparel (hats, bags, T-shirts, polos) will be sold and distributed in various markets and online. A portion of those proceeds will benefit the Light Foundation, a nonprofit organization
DIRECTIONS 1. In a pint glass filled with ice combine all ingredients except the celery salt. 2. Pour mixture into shaker and back into pint glass and repeat until ingredients are well mixed. 3. Pour back into pint glass.
the former NFL star founded to help young
4. Sprinkle on celery salt.
people achieve leadership roles through
5. Garnish with celery stalk.
involvement in intense outdoor activities. Proceeds will also benefit charities that partners Bill Dessel and Tom McGowan support. In October, the Light Foundation hosted the ninth-annual “Celebrity Shootout,” a benefit supported by KEEL Vodka as well as Reinhart Foodservice. The unique, daylong
KEEL Vodka Martini INGREDIENTS • 3 oz KEEL Vodka
event included a clay-shooting tournament,
• 1 oz dry vermouth
outdoor concert, sportsman-like contests and
• 1 cup of ice cubes
demonstrations and a fine-dining component. To date the “Celebrity Shootout” has raised almost $4 million for programs benefiting atrisk youth. Between learning the vodka business, planning “Celebrity Shootout” and staying busy with his active lifestyle, Light enjoys kicking back with a cocktail which, of course, he keeps “light.”
• 3 olives DIRECTIONS 1. Combine vodka and dry vermouth in cocktail mixing glass. Fill with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a chilled martini glass. 2. Garnish with three olives on a toothpick.
“I like it simple,” Light confessesed. “I typically drink it with a little club soda and a lime and I’m all set.” n
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 6 7
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Taking Comfort Food to the Next Level with
Fresh Produce by MARKON速
6 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Always #BetterTogether
Fall is a time of transitions: weather cools, school starts and summer fruits and vegetables give way to autumn harvests. Even hungers and appetites change: grilled fish, chilled salads and fresh berry desserts no longer register on the radar the way they do during hot spells. Instead, diners are more apt to seek out warm and flavorful fare made from heartier ingredients.
Classic French onion soup combines thyme-scented broth with complexly flavored caramelized onions and a glorious crown of Gruyere cheese. Perfect for cold nights!
When seasonal gears shift, the comfort food arena is a great place to start. Not just a trend, but a perennial genre that fits into every type of cuisine, comfort fare is always popular and never more so than when it is modernized with contemporary ingredients and techniques. Incorporating an abundance of seasonal fruits, vegetables and fresh herbs is one of the best expressions of comfort food this year. Produce as a star of the plate has finally reached the mainstream. Featuring fall favorites such as hard squashes, hearty greens, mushrooms, onions, apples and potatoes appeals to diners and adds a welcome cushion to food costs.
The addition of umami flavors from mushrooms and soy sauce modernize this green bean casserole and make it taste better than grandmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.
Usage Ideas:
Pairing Produce with Heartier Fall Fare
Large enough to be a meatless entrĂŠe or sharable bar snack, try serving this kale- and chard-stuffed Portabella mushroom.
Trim calories and increase the nutritional profile while adding flavor to hand-held starters like beef empanadas and Indian-inspired samosas by mixing in cubes of butternut squash, roasted eggplant or sweet baby carrots.
Instead of serving classic old-fashioned beef stew, why not try a similar, but more exotic Moroccan tagine?
Rich, complex and soothing Vietnamese pho is the soup of the moment. Add lots of chopped green onions,
Simmer beef chunks with dried apricots, garbanzo beans, carrots and almonds; serve over couscous.
fresh cilantro and mint, spinach and onions to maximize oomph.
Update baked apple recipes by stuffing sweet Galas with quinoa, oats, pomegranate seeds and dried cranberries;
Lighten the meatball load by mixing ground meat with
drizzle lightly with caramel. n
roasted eggplant, garlic and breadcrumbs. Serve this sandwich classic with retro red gravy and a dollop of house-made burrata cheese.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 6 9
B U S I N E S S
CAREER SPOTLIGHT
Peter Lopez I
mpressive resumes are a cinch to spot – big names, big titles and big impact. As young talents go, there may not be a more impressive resume than Peter Lopez’s. From the age of 14, this culinarian took experiences with his family’s restaurant in Barrington, Illinois, and developed a passion of not only creating great food but also a memorable experience for guests. “I love to make people happy, and what better way than through food. There is no better feeling in the world than someone complimenting a dish I served them. It’s remarkable that just a plate of food can change someone’s mood. Being around good people and having great food creates a positive environment,” Lopez explained. This sentiment wouldn’t be a shock to anyone close to this self-proclaimed Italian-cuisine lover. After just a single day working with his father at the family restaurant, he decided he’d pursue his dream of becoming a chef. He would spend the next couple years at various restaurants near his home, learning the business and operations, and, of course, the food. That affinity for the restaurant industry propelled Lopez to The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) campus in Hyde Park, New York, often described as the most prestigious culinary school in the country.
7 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
One of the first lessons Lopez learned at the CIA was “mise en place,” which means, “putting in place.” He developed a strictly organized and clean work area by utilizing the phrase’s principles –assemble and organize all ingredients and equipment before cooking. Everything is readily at hand so focus on the process is enhanced, uninterrupted by running to the pantry when the dish has already been fired. The CIA also has taught Lopez to examine culinary trends through current chefs’ techniques. Lopez explained, “[With our meats class,] we talked about aging beef and what chefs nowadays are doing to age beef the best way. [Some chefs] have very specific rooms at certain temperatures and have salted shelves. It’s crazy.” Lopez appreciates the culinary lessons he continues to learn at the CIA. Externships are part of the CIA’s coursework; students work at approved restaurants for several months before they return to campus to finish their degrees. With his portfolio of experiences at Italian restaurants, Lopez grabbed the opportunity to do his externship at Spiaggia, the award-winning restaurant in Chicago. Aspiring chef since age 14, seasoned restaurant veteran, Culinary Institute of America educated, Spiaggia experienced. Not a bad resume at all. And Lopez expects it will be further buffed and burnished with more post-graduation experiences. n
Pete Lopez
“Culinary schools provide a great base for young chefs to succeed in the field. But just because you don’t go to culinary school doesn’t mean you won’t be [a good chef]. There are countless chefs who are on top of the culinary field who didn’t attend culinary school.” - Peter Lopez
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 7 1
O P E R A T I O N S
IS THE WORLD READY FOR SELF-CHECKOUT?
We check our cell phones every 30 seconds, loathing ourselves when selfawareness flares. When will the madness stop? BUT once in a while, something may grace our Google search or Facebook feed. Or something may grace the tables.
BREAK ON THROUGH Millions of ideas pop into the many technological brains across the globe each day. Few manifest to a viable business product. Even fewer sustain success through the gauntlet that is humanity. This, however, makes sense. This solves more problems. And this begs the question: does it cause any problems?
WHAT IS “THIS?” THIS is the self-checkout system. THIS is simplification of the dining experience. And what’s not to love? Pay for the bill securely, divide the bill appropriately, calculate gratuity accurately, and think highly of an establishment that would invest in this progressive element of a night out. Probably most importantly for operators: Collect data on customers.
Technology – it’s always trying to mess with our world. Every 6 months we’re forced into a complete overhaul of technological habits. Soon enough, patrons will buy something from an electronics store and upon leaving own an outdated piece of equipment or software. Total bummer.
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But how can an operator accomplish all of these things? Is it a mobile payment app like Snapfinger? A table tablet device like Ziosk? A roaming internet-based device like Viableware’s RAIL? In an April 24, 2013, interview with QSR Magazine, Snapfinger’s CEO, Jim Garrett, said, “Restaurants have long struggled
“Not only can a patron pay the bill, divide the bill accordingly, itemize the check, calculate gratuity, the device allows for multiple apps – such as paying the valet service at the table and installing a survey following payment”
According to the same article, Snapfinger is the largest and most comprehensive provider of mobile, online, and phone-based ordering and payment applications for fast-casual and casual restaurants. But what if someone doesn’t have a smartphone? How do you utilize the app? Some restaurants are eliminating that from the equation by utilizing Ziosk’s tablet technology. According to their website, the Dallas-based company’s tablets sport a 7 inch Android™ touchscreen, an optional built-in printer, and Wi-Fi capabilities. These products have been in the market for a couple years, and have heavy involvement in the fast-casual segment. Patrons can order food and drinks from the table and pay for the bill on the credit card reader, while kiddie guests can enjoy games on the device at a premium. In an August 22, 2013, interview with the Dallas Business Journal, Kiosk’s president and CEO, Austen Mulinder, said, “Our goal is not to replace the server. Because a guest can press a
button to reorder drinks, that means the server is spending less time in the back of the house inputting it into the system and more time in front of the house.”
for security. [The RAIL] keeps the card in the consumers’ hands, and credit card information or personal information isn’t stored – whatsoever.” n
Operators were introduced to RAIL, a self-checkout device by Viableware based out of Seattle. The RAIL system is meant to essentially replace the paper check with an electronic version. Joe Snell, CEO of Viableware, explained the extent of services on his device. Not only can a patron pay the bill, divide the bill accordingly, itemize the check, calculate gratuity, the device allows for multiple apps – such as paying the valet service at the table and installing a survey following payment (just in case of a bad review, the general manager can dart over and amend the poor dining experience). With the extended apps, the possibilities are endless, as everything is customizable by the restaurant. “By having the RAIL in the restaurant, your servers are going to be in their sections way longer, and paying attention to their customers. You equip your servers with the ability to do what they do best, serve the customer,” Snell said. And security is their cornerstone. The transaction does not involve credit card information – meaning the name and numbers are never exposed at the restaurant and any risk is mitigated. Snell said, “Full service restaurants have a large cost overhead for PCI assurance
1
Assess your need (or lack of need) for such a system. Are your servers time crunched? Do you want to alter the dining experience?
How To Approach Self-Checkout Systems
with how to collect data on in-store diners, so they can provide a richer user experience based on ordering preferences and past history.” He continues, “With Snapfinger Mobile Payment, restaurants can provide a check-in and checkout application to diners that links to their loyalty programs and creates a total consumer picture based on both on-site and remote ordering histories.”
2
One size doesn’t fit all. If your operation wants to go down that path, which system works best for you? Do you need games if 95% of your patrons are adults?
3
Each system is a financial commitment. Due diligence and cost analysis are critical to knowing whether or not you’ll see a return on the investment.
4
Will your servers adapt to the new technology? Ask their opinions and weigh the pros and cons. These are the individuals most affected.
5
Poll patrons. Ask some of your most loyal customers if they’d want to see this. After all, they’re paying.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 7 3
TRENDY TO NEW MENU ITEMS THAT ARE & TASTY BRAISE YOUR WAY
TURN TOUGH CUTS INTO TENDER, PROFITABLE MEALS.
7Advertorial 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
+ OXTAIL $6.95/LB.*
= BRAISING SAUCE
BRAISED FARM-RAISED OXTAIL WITH STEWED SUMMER VEGETABLES
[$
12.75 (SUGGESTED MENU PRICE) 4.67* (FOOD COST)
]
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S .COM 75 Advertorial
Q
Q
A
A
Q
Do you have any specific products you’d recommend to simplify or enhance the braising process?
A
There are so many different types of cuisine that include braised dishes it’s hard to identify one specific thing. Depending on what you’re preparing, finishing with herbs and spices will build the flavor profile. I’m also a fan of Knorr® Demi-Glace. With quick and easy prep, it allows you to focus on making the food—not the demi-glace.
Watch as fellow Unilever Chef Russell creates braised short ribs. 7 6 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3 Advertorial
Braised Short Ribs with Farm-Grown Potatoes
Q
If you had one piece of advice to offer the hardworking chefs and cooks reading this magazine, what would it be?
A
Always use quality ingredients. Always. If you start out with good stuff, you’ll end up with good stuff. It’s that simple. Also, make sure to pay attention to your technique. Every step matters.
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TRI-TIP ROAST Use our Beef Base to add caramelization and boost the flavor of tri-tip roast.
BRAISE WITH KNORR DEMI-GLACE. ®
1
Brown your meat in a small amount of oil.
2
Mix up a batch of Knorr® Demi-Glace following the directions on the package.
3
Cover your meat 70% of the way and cook covered for 2–3 hours at 325°F. *Cook time may vary based on the meat cut and its size.
Advertorial
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FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 7 7
B U S I N E S S
HOSPITALS DISH UP HEALTHY MEALS WITH A SIDE OF SATISFACTION THE HEALTHCARE SEGMENT IS BUSY FINDING WAYS TO CURE THE BAD-MEAL DILEMMA THAT LONG HAS BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH IT. Purchasing power talks, and healthcare food service has much to shout about, representing a $12 billion market in U.S.
Serving healthy food at places dedicated to healing may seem like a given, but patient feeding has suffered through decades of uninspired food assembled on tray lines and delivered inelegantly to the bedside. Fast forward to 2013 and discover a new approach. Fresh rolled sushi, New York-style pizza and hand dipped ice cream might be hidden under those lids, fare that helps to optimize patient satisfaction.
chefs, exhibition stations in cafeterias, gourmet burgers made to order, gourmet burrito bars, hospital farmers markets, rooftop
gardens
and
elimination
of
sugary drinks.” One of the major drivers of improved patient
satisfaction
has
been
the
transition to hotel-style room service, using a pod system in which small teams assemble and deliver the meals. This, coupled with menus that can spark even
The relentless drive to increase Press
Invitational featured 10 local hospitals
the most lackluster appetite, has made a
Ganey scores, long the standard of
preparing a nutritious, high-quality three-
huge difference, says Yesford.
measuring patient satisfaction, kicked
course meal in two hours.
into higher gear with the implementation
of the Affordable Care Act and new guidelines for Medicare reimbursement
Purchasing power talks, and healthcare
food service has much to shout about,
THE LANDSCAPE
representing a $12 billion market in
There’s more than one way to fill the
U.S. “As major purchasers, we can
plate, and programs are sprouting up
shift the market to healthier offerings,”
across the country, inspired by the
says Elizabeth Yesford, immediate past
Healthy Food in Health Care Initiative
the needle on scores, and to up the game,
president of the AHF.
She sees the
www.healthydfoodinhealthcare.org, or
hospitals are taking cues from upscale
revolution in full swing, as she ticks off
the Planetree model of patient-centered
hotels and restaurants. For patients, it’s
the year’s top trends: “Upscale catering,
care, or by simply putting their own
a veritable buffet of delight as hospitals
restaurant-style menus, classically trained
spin on menus that nurture as well as
based on patient ratings of the care they received.
There’s no question that food can move
compete for their share of a market. Kaiser Health News reports that hospital food has become an in-house specialty complete with Iron Chef-style contests and celebrity chefs. This summer, the Association of Healthcare Food Service’s (AHF) fourth annual Culinary Competition winner,
Elmhurst
(Illinois)
Memorial
Healthcare, served Goat Cheese Mashed Potato Cake atop Crab and Corn Maque Choux, with New Orleans-style BBQ Shrimp, Abita Amber Ale Glaze and Pineapple Compote. And South Carolina Hospital Association’s first Cooking Well
7 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
nourish. Farmers markets have bloomed
retail selections. Everything from burrito
menus, and slicing more off the bottom
at Provident Hospital in Washington DC,
bowls to grilled salmon to sushi is
line by using sous vide for meats and
and at Northern Westchester Hospital in
on the extended menu,
poultry, realizing an additional $26,000
New York, whole grain breads, scratch
hearty spike in patient satisfaction rates
made soups, locally sourced vegetables
to 99% over the course of the four-year
and hormone-free milk are always on
rollout. And if cardiac patients want to
the menu.
order a not-so-doctor-approved plate of
Perhaps no one has more creatively pumped up the variety than Angelo Mojica, director of food and nutrition services at University of North Carolina Healthcare,
where
his
“Restaurant
Delivery” offers patients a dizzying 93 entrées based on the hospital’s extensive
resulting in a
fried chicken? “Any dietary restrictions are seen by our department while the patient’s ordering, so we change course and steer them toward the grilled salmon or another appropriate selection.” Yet another benefit: Mojica actually cut costs, saving $400,000 through crossutilization of items on patient and retail
on chicken breasts alone. Vast
selections
aren’t
needed
to
recreate this unique program, which recently earned Mojica the Foodservice Manufacturers Association’s 2013 Silver Plate award. His advice: “Start small, build your retail program, and then move it to the patient side. You don’t need dozens of concepts to make it work; use what you have right now on your grill, sandwich line, grab and go.” n
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N I K R O W O P E R A T I O N S
ERS r K o A T t u DER b i R O r ist THAN
d TER r T u E B o LWAYS y h t wi NERS ARE A PART
A
new face can raise a brow or provoke an unsolicited thought. “Who is this and what is this person about?” we ponder while staring at the fresh face. We may not know the person, but we’re quick to judge based on ancillary factors. Some judgments are good, others not so much.
“I continue to challenge myself to stay ahead of the competition by building strong relationships with our customers and being a consultative business partner bringing ideas, solutions, market trends and honesty,” said John Korakis, sales consultant with Reinhart Foodservice Milwaukee. Staying ahead of the curve is essential to sustained business growth, and your
In foodservice, relationships matter and newcomers haven’t yet had a chance to prove their worth. Operators cultivate and cherish relationships and look to strengthen them in ways that enhance
SIFTING THROUGH COMPETITION Those faces are more than a sales person. They are experienced, a reputation, a quality,
sales person’s support and resolve could ultimately impact that. Not only can your distributor rep take case orders, but also participate in menu engineering, marketing ideas and promotional opportunities. The more the relationship
the operations. That fresh face might
a representative and an ambassador. In short,
develop into a productive relationship
they are the face of a business. Any sales
(or a nightmare), but time will tell.
rep can merely jot down orders, but the truly
Inventory, food quality, and reliability are
good ones strive to do more than just sell
Korakis explained what that
on the line. Consistency of that face is as
cases. They aim to be consultant and trusted
relationship looks like. “Honesty,
important as the consistency of that dish
partner, working in tandem with clients to
reliability and being proactive with ideas
dispensed to the guest.
build better, more successful businesses.
and options our customers can utilize to
8 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
relies on that consultation, the greater chance for success for the operator.
G N
Questions
TO ASK YOUR SALES PERSON
1. What promotions are currently available? How can these be applied to my business?
Want to keep your finger on the pulse with Reinhart Foodservice? Follow us on Twitter! @Reinhart_Corp – find industry news, company announcements, pictures, recipes, and more!
help improve their business and increase their bottom line — that’s what we strive for. And all along, mutual trust is key.”
quality of cases arriving on the doorstep
Marty Slevin, Reinhart Foodservice’s director of talent management, works tirelessly to hire the right people. “We tend to bring people along that have worked, lived or gone to school in the community [they service]. Once our sales consultants have the knowledge of our business, it’s easy for them. They’ve eaten at these restaurants, have gone with their families. That makes for a great connection with our customers,” he said.
committed to your operation’s success,
COMMITTED TO THE CUSTOMER
Knowing that you helped increase their
Just saving 10 cents a pound on chicken wings isn’t the foundation for a productive business relationship. The ongoing commitment your Reinhart partner brings to your business allows for growth. It is her or his goal to keep customers satisfied not only with the
job is all about.”
but the ongoing care, attention and service. If your distributor isn’t fully find another distributor. Korakis explained, “As a sales consultant, nothing is more rewarding than understanding what works for customers and how it can benefit those who don’t take advantage of new ideas. To then have the opportunity to present
2. Can you have your menu engineering experts evaluate my menu and make suggestions to improve and strengthen my offerings? 3. Are there any alternatives to (PICK PRODUCT) that have higher margins? Will using those products be a seamless transition?
Steve Polewacyk of Vermont Pub and Brewery in Burlington, Vermont, praised menu engineering work with Reinhart Foodservice, saying, “We have done some amazing things to improve our menu. It has been critical to keeping our menu fresh and furthering our business.” Korakis and the entire Reinhart sales team are single-minded in their dedication to your business and creating a long-running, win-win relationship. n
it and get the customer to take action and see the results — that’s powerful. business in a positive way is what the
Working with a distributor’s menu consulting experts is a valuable avenue for fostering the relationship. Menu
MENU
engineering can save money and also increase revenues when done properly.
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B U S I N E S S
Growing Concerns by Min Casey
EXPANDING BEYOND A SINGLE UNIT IS THE DREAM OF MANY RESTAURANT OPERATORS. TURNING IT INTO A PROFITABLE REALITY IS DEFINITELY DO-ABLE BUT IT REQUIRES DISCIPLINE, CAREFUL PLANNING AND A PRETTY FAT WALLET.
B
y big city standards, the distance between the original location of Pauline’s Restaurant and its new offspring is fairly short, less than 4-1/2 miles, but in some ways the differences are so pronounced that one could be on Venus and the other Mars.
The first location, opened in 1996, sits on a quiet, tree-lined corner in a residential Chicago neighborhood. Over time, it has become a much-loved breakfastand-lunchtime gathering spot for a cadre of regulars, many who stroll over
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from nearby homes and businesses. The interior has a comfortable “livedin” feeling, with bright colors, an eclectic collection of art and often, two screeching parrots, avian companions of a frequent customer.
The new one, scheduled to open at press time, anchors a small strip mall on a busy arterial street. It is sleek, uncluttered and decidedly more modern, with high ceilings, an open kitchen and five little troll dolls lined up on a low window ledge. The trolls are not just a signal of Pauline’s quirky charms but, unexpectedly, a word-of-mouth marketing tool, thanks to the many small children who zero in on them. “During construction and while we wait for our license from the city, kids walk by and see the trolls,” explained Kathy
Henning, owner of the two restaurants. “They make sure their parents see them and get promises that they’ll come back when we open.” Another location wasn’t Henning’s goal. Pauline’s is open 365 days a year and its steady hum of business is more than enough to keep her busy. “I never gave it a thought,” she says. “The building owner’s grandson cold-called to ask if I was interested. I said ‘absolutely not’. He called back a few months later and I agreed to look.” The space previously housed Charlie Trotter’s To Go, a high-end prepared
foods and wine shop. Although structurally very different from the original Pauline’s, Henning liked what she saw, sensing a good fit for her concept of classic breakfast and lunch fare. She also noted that although the area has high-population density, is close to a university and abuts an upscale, familyoriented residential neighborhood, “No one nearby was doing what we do. It seemed like a natural.” Henning feels confident that she has done due diligence and tailored the new restaurant in small ways so it will resonate with neighborhood appetites while remaining true to all that Pauline’s
stands for. “The new place will have at least two distinct groups—students from DePaul [University] and families with children. We have to serve them both and make it feel like it’s their place. For students we have a counter where they can sit with laptops. A play area is there for the kids,” Henning said. And while the menu will remain essentially the same, including the signature five-egg omelets, Henning will implement a few, changes such as adding more salads and fruit. “They might not want Pauline’s Potatoes with their omelets.” >>
“THE SINGLE HARDEST THING I’VE EVER DONE IN BUSINESS IS GO FROM ONE LOCATION TO TWO.” - John Metz Jr., Restaurant Operator
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B U S I N E S S << As with any opening, there may be inevitable hiccups along the way, but Henning anticipates that the expansion will be fairly seamless, a well-choreographed effort by her, her staff and a dedicated general manager for the new location.
THE NEW MATH Although it’s simply a matter of going from one unit to two, the addition is not necessarily that simple, advises John Metz, Jr., an Atlanta-based restaurant operator whose growing portfolio includes
a variety of foodservice operations in both commercial and noncommercial sectors, including 12 Marlow’s Taverns. There’s an odd mathematics that makes the jump from one to two geometrically more complicated than mere numbers indicate.
GUIDELINES FOR GROWTH
Here are pointers and suggestions for restaurant operators who have the itch to add another location:
Make sure a new location won’t cannibalize
business from the existing one. Although wellestablished brands such as Starbucks, McDonald’s and Dunkin’ Donuts can support multiple units in fairly close proximity, that’s less likely to be the case with independent restaurants. There’s no onesize-fits-all mileage metric for the optimal distance, but make sure that a new location, especially if it is to be the same brand and menu, draws an entirely different group of consumers.
Don’t assume the customer tastes, attitudes and
preferences that helped build the original business will be the same at a different location. Kathy Henning’s short hop across a few neighborhoods puts her second Pauline’s in a different demographic entirely. Sensing that a healthier mindset will guide many dining choices, she made subtle changes to the menu.
Plan carefully how you’ll staff the new operation.
It makes sense to populate it with some of the most skilled and senior team members from the original location, but it’s a balancing act. Taking away too many strong workers from one restaurant, even for a short period of time, can lead to kitchen and service problems at that site.
There’s a natural tendency to play up the new spot as a career opportunity for staff members, but that has to be handled with delicacy so as not to make the original spot seem less exciting and vibrant. Even though opening day is more than a year away, Andrew Hoffman of Comal is carefully planning how to maintain the Comal’s lively freshness. “You really don’t want to take the wind out of the sails of those who remain,” he said. “It still has to feel like an exciting place to them and to the customers.”
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Don’t underestimate the amount of work required of top-tier management. Seriously
consider a dedicated GM for each location, ideally a home-grown person from the first location. Not only does it provide an opportunity for growth, he or she will know the business and how you operate as well.
To every extent possible, make sure you can support the new location financially – especially
in the months before it is generating cash flow. “Great big companies can take it on the road better. They just reach in their corporate pockets and take out someone else’s money,” says Dean Carson of Carson’s, adding that the payroll for pre-opening training can require a huge cash outlay, as much as $100,000. “Independents don’t have that. But we have ourselves. You can roll up your sleeves and bull through any problems.”
Ask yourself the really hard question: should
you really do it? Hot Doug’s in Chicago is an insanely popular hot dog restaurant owned by Doug Sohn since 2001. Lines can be as long as a block, creating several hours of waiting time on many days. But Sohn flat-out refuses to expand, saying, “That’s not who I am. That’s not what Hot Doug’s is.” To see him in action, taking the order of every single customer, is to understand that a large part of Hot Doug’s success resides in his presence — the banter, the personal connections, the jovial good will. And as long as he can only be in one place at a time, there will only be one Hot Doug’s.
“The single hardest thing I’ve ever done in business is go from one location to two,” says Metz, who grew up in in the restaurant industry. It’s a sobering thought for independent operators who dream and scheme, plan and plot how to expand their holdings. And if it seems that restaurant universe is dominated by chains, statistics say otherwise. According to the National Restaurant Association, 7 of 10 restaurants are one-off, single-unit operations. “You get to the point where your first location is doing well enough financially that you think it might make sense to build on that success and open another,” Metz said. “When we did it, we tried to save all of that money. We didn’t invest in the proper support. It was just me and my partner on the management side. I’d open one [restaurant] and close the other and he’d do the opposite every single day. It went on like that for a year and a half,” he explains, noting that the schedule was brutal. “We finally realized that you can’t divide yourself in half. We had to invest in people and build staff if we were going to make this work. That might mean getting outside financing.”
PLANNING FOR MORE While Henning was “accidental” in her decision to grow, responding to an opportunity rather than a formal business plan, Andrew Hoffman and his business partner John Paluska set their sights on expansion even before their first restaurant opened. Comal debuted in Berkeley, CA., in May 2012—and they have already locked up space for their next concept. “From the start we had a bigger vision than Comal,” explained Hoffman. “Not grand, mapped-out plans, but enough of an idea that from the start we formed a separate company to grow the business. It was inevitable that we’d continue to build, but we didn’t have a timeline or even an idea of what the other restaurants would be.” Comal, which is in downtown Berkeley and close to the University of California
If it seems that the restaurant universe is dominated by chains, statistics say otherwise. According to the National Restaurant Association, 7 of 10 restaurants are one-off, singleunit operations.
campus, took off like a rocket, its distinct vibe and contemporary Oaxacan-inflected menu helping it smash through all expectations; reviews have been solidly positive and business booming. When their landlord approached them with another space in Berkeley, they nabbed it. The run-up to opening is just beginning, though; Hoffman says they are at least 15 months away. “We see it as a good thing that we have a long runway,” he noted. It will not be a clone of Comal. For one thing, at less than two miles, it’s way too close to the original location. But more importantly, Hoffman believes that, at least for the time being, there’s no point in trying to duplicate Comal’s magic, an alchemic mix of the space, menu, music (Paluska was for many years the manager of the rock band Phish, so it’s no surprise that the restaurant’s sound system, acoustics and music selections are essential to the overall vibe), service style and its customers. The new restaurant will focus on northern Californian cuisine, with a slightly higher check average than that of Comal and fewer shared-plate type offerings. Craft cocktails will play large, and Hoffman expects wine to be more prominent. Matt Gandin, the chef at Comal and an integral part of its success, will not head the kitchen at the second spot. Hoffman and Paluska have already anticipated Metz’s cautionary tale about growth. “John and I are thoughtful, introspective people and have put a lot of time and effort into meeting with people, talking to them about what we’re doing. Everyone has warned us—our accountants, friends in the industry, our investors—that the infrastructure has to be in place before we expand,” Hoffman said. “In the beginning we may be less optimally efficient but we can’t afford to let Comal skip a beat. That’s what’s driving the train.”
NEW HORIZON The most recent round of growth for Dean Carson has taken him across state lines, from Chicago, where for 35 years Carson’s Ribs has been an iconic rib and steak spot, >> FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 8 5
B U S I N E S S
<< to Milwaukee. Plotting out how to expand beyond two units of his casual finedining concept — one of which is close to downtown and the other in suburban Chicago — an opportunity presented itself for the restaurant to inhabit the entire ground floor of a new, high-rise residential building in downtown Milwaukee. With the luxury of great space and a favorable deal, it was a bit of a no-brainer, especially since, during the intensity of construction and opening, it was just a short drive away. “It was important that travel wouldn’t kill me. I can supervise all three restaurants by car,” he explains. The restaurant opened in July. It also helped that, intuitively, he sensed that the Carson’s name had some street cred in Milwaukee. “It’s close enough to Chicago that people know it, recognize the Carson’s name and what it stands for.” Knowing that getting every detail right is essential, Carson hoped for a quiet opening so that any little knots could be managed out. It was much busier than anticipated. He was ready, though, having staffed the restaurant with a
representative selection of strength from the other units, an already-trained support team. “I brought at least one person for each position, a dishwasher, busser, line cook, prep cook, bartender, server — everything,” Carson said. “New people can read all the manuals, but nothing is quite going to prepare them for the real job. It makes a big difference to have someone there who can work alongside and answer them in real time,” he adds.
INDEPENDENT MINDED As Metz opens additional locations of Marlow’s Tavern, an unshakeable goal, stitched into the growth plan from the start, is to create “a collection of restaurants rather than a chain.” “From my perspective, keeping the independent spirit is our biggest challenge after the people part,” Metz noted. “We have a location in Alpharetta [Georgia]. Our guests don’t care that there’s another one in mid-town. We can take advantage of the synergy and resources of a larger company but still have taverns that feel different from each other, very much like independent restaurants.”
To maintain a strong indie culture at the unit level, Metz creates business owners at each location. He outlined four management strategies used to reinforce that goal. “We want to keep the business owners happy, give them a share in the profits, provide them with long-term incentives and give them autonomy to do things locally that are important to their unit,” he explained. “We have a great team. The collaboration with the business owners and partners makes us successful as a company and allows us to grow,” Metz added. Hoffman and Paluska, too, are aware of how essential it is to actively define, create and nurture a company culture, a task best done before the doors of the first restaurant open. “We have a phenomenal culture at Comal. We preach a humble, genuine and sincere approach. From Day One, we went at it as a very open and very human place. Our team embraces and lives it. That philosophy will carry over to the new restaurant and make everything easier.” n
“We preach a humble, genuine and sincere approach. From Day One, we went at it as a very open and very human place. Our team embraces and lives it. That philosophy will carry over to the new restaurant and make everything easier.” John Metz Jr., Marlow’s Taverns
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REINHART FOODSERVICE AND HEINZ UNITE TO CELEBRATE VETERANS DAY Heinz’s Our Turn to Serve campaign makes it simple for restaurant guests to express their gratitude to our veterans. By scanning a QR code on the back of specially marked Heinz Ketchup bottles, guests can write Thank You Cards to veterans. For every Thank You Card sent, Heinz will donate $1 to the Wounded Warrior Project ®, and for messages that are shared via Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram, Heinz will donate an additional 57 cents, up to $250,000.
Your purchase of Heinz Ketchup will contribute to the Wounded Warrior Project! For November purchases of cases of 14oz (RFS #P8448) or 20oz (RFS #E2316) Upside Down Heinz Ketchup through Reinhart Foodservice, $2 per case will be donated to the Wounded Warrior Project: $1 from Reinhart and $1 from Heinz, up to $10,000 each.* *Excluding National Account Chains
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B U S I N E S S
Chipotle Wins with Food You Can Believe In In a series of maverick moves, Chipotle founder Steve Ells ushered in the fast-casual era with high-quality ingredients and a determination to make lasting changes to procurement practices. His core customers eat it up with unflagging brand loyalty.
C
hipotle Mexican Grill is not just about burritos, tacos and rice bowls anymore. As essential as they are to success at the 1,400+ unit fast-casual brand, a bigger initiative is on founder and CEO Steve Ells’ agenda. In a move that shook up businessas-usual in the quick-serve and fast-casual segments, he early on insisted on using highquality ingredients, often reaching for organic and natural over less expensive options more typically seen. In doing so, he launched what consultant Paul Barron describes as “the Chipotle effect,” a follow-the-leader movement that has compelled changes up and down the industry. “We’ve built this business in a very different way by casting aside all the norms of building a chain of restaurants in the fast-food space,” said Chris Arnold, director of communications for Denver-based Chipotle. “It was traditionally dominated by cheap, heavily processed ingredients, marketing was driven by LTOs and special promotions, and growth came through franchising. We don’t do any of those things.” Instead, Ells turned his head away from the status quo, defining his mission succinctly: food served fast doesn’t have to be a "fastfood" experience. He insisted on high-quality raw ingredients, classic cooking methods, a distinctive interior design and an extraordinary dining experience, attributes more common in fine-dining establishments. The Chipotle experience includes much eye contact between
8 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
staff and guests, a totally transparent preparation process, and the sounds, smells and sights of cooking in an open kitchen to keep appetites constantly stoked.
Be Creative. Be Very Creative. Ells also rewrote the marketing playbook, focusing on ideas that connect emotionally with customers. The difference between moderately successful operations and cultural icons starts here, with authentic messages that go way beyond the product itself to tap into the company’s very soul. It’s why Chipotle’s campaign around healthier, more ethical food production, known as “food with integrity,” is much more than a catchy slogan, but serves as the underlying motivation for the company’s existence. After touring an industrialized hog farm, Ells adopted a stronger stance on Chipotle’s sourcing. “Fresh is not enough anymore,” he explained. “Now we want to know where all of our ingredients come from so that we can be sure they are as flavorful as possible while understanding the environmental and societal impact of our business.” It’s why Chipotle has built a supplier network to purchase local and organically grown beans and herbs, meats raised without antibiotics, and dairy products made with milk from cows raised in open pastures and without use of synthetic hormones.
The quality of product mattered deeply to Ells, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, but was it relevant to consumers looking for a quickly made burrito that tasted good? He reckoned yes, and sought ways to communicate his passion to a growing audience of Millennials and parents. Throughout the 2000s, as the call for sustainable and organic foods grew louder, Chipotle continued its advance its message, making skillful use of both traditional and then-nascent social media to spread the word. Raising the bar even higher, Chipotle in 2011 created an animated video, “Back to the Start,” telling the story of a hog farmer who creates an industrialized farm but tears it down and reverts to raising hogs on open pastures. Two minutes and 20 seconds was all it took to reset the stage for fast-casual advertising and boost Chipotle’s phenom status. There was no narration; instead Willie Nelson sings Coldplay’s “The Scientist,” with lyrics including: “Questions of science, science and progress, do not speak as loud as my heart.” Two million YouTube views have driven the message to the heart of the youthful Chipotle customer. Its first airing on national television was strategically placed during the 2012 Grammy Awards show. Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity, an awards program for creative communications, granted the video top honors, praising its novel approach to building customer loyalty and steering 180 degrees away from the industry norm of promoting 99 cent burritos.
Followed in 2012 by another video dramatizing how hundreds of families quit working on American farms because of competition from big agriculture, with a stirring cover of “Mamas Don’t Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Cowboys,” Chipotle continued its message of support to small, familyowned and operated farms. “Ultimately we think it is just as important for people to understand the underlying issues we are trying to address as it is for them to understand what we are doing to address them,” said Arnold. Up next is an even more ambitious media reach—a satirical four-part miniseries taking aim at industrial agriculture. All of its advertising seems to resonate with its audience. Ad tracking shows that 93% of consumers say they find Chipotle ads relevant, 91% say they are more interested in trying Chipotle after seeing its ads, and 89% said a lot of information in the ad was new to them. (Source: Chipotle Q2 2013 earnings call.)
An Industry Transformed If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Chipotle’s being showered with praise—i.e. new brands muscling into the Fast Casual space. QSR editor Sam Oches points to the proliferation of pizza places like Blaze (“fast-fired, custom built artisanal pizzas”), Pizza Studio (“create your masterpiece”), PizzaRev (“craft your own”). “They are all replicating the Chipotle model by offering customers the chance to create their own personal >>
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 8 9
B U S I N E S S << pizza and serving it to them in three minutes,” he said. “It’s completely new, and by using this model, they’re able to expand well beyond a dinner delivery, but are lunch destinations and places singles can go.” And that’s just pizza—there’s also Roti Mediterranean Grill (“food that loves you back); and Tin Drum AsiaCafe (“inspired by the beat of the street”).
Ells insisted on high-quality raw ingredients, classic cooking methods, a distinctive interior design and an extraordinary dining experience, attributes more common in fine-dining establishments.
that
“The idea of brands are sourced locally,
sustainably and responsibly resonates with Millennials,” says Oches. Which is why they continue to grow—Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian, Indian—all offering bold flavors in a customizable format. But Chipotle need not worry, says Oches. “Chipotle has that loyalty, that buzz. They’ve established themselves as the one, and they will hold that mantle,” Oches predicted. “Until someone comes up with something completely new, Chipotle will continue to lead.” n
WHAT CAN YOU LEARN FROM CHIPOTLE? Plenty, it turns out. Being first to the party doesn’t guarantee success. Chipotle wasn’t the first Fresh Mex concept, the first burrito player nor the first creative brand builder. But they watched the mistakes of their predecessors and developed a brand that tapped into what their customers care about: freshness, quality, sustainability, humor and a sense they were breaking out of the ‘slightly more upscale fast food’ mold, according to The Chipotle Effect.
LET YOUR CUSTOMERS BE YOUR BRAND MANAGERS. If your marketing is authentic, it will happen as organically as everything else as Chipotle. Similar to the success of iPods and Mini Coopers, the key is understanding that Millennials in particular want to strongly influence how they experience a brand. “It’s why we don’t give you a pre-defined meal; the customer creates exactly what they want,” says Chipotle’s Chris Arnold.
COPY RIGHT. If your goal is to be the “Chipotle of pizza,” or Mediterranean or any other food niche, be sure and copy the right things, says Arnold. “It’s not just about the DIY service line or the pricing, Chipotle’s success comes from adhering to our principles--better ingredients from sustainable sources, commitment to classical cooking methods, and creating an employee culture focused on identifying top performers and grooming them for leadership.”
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STICK TO YOUR PRINCIPLES. Even if the conventional wisdom runs counter, stay strong. Regarding Chipotle’s latest foray into eliminating GMO ingredients, Ells candidly said during an investor’s call: “We don't necessarily think that customers are going to want to pay more or visit more often, but all along the way on our food integrity journey we have always done what we thought were the right things, and GMOs follow that same thinking…we think that does build customer loyalty.”
…AND KEEP STICKING TO THEM AS YOU EXPAND. The ShopHouse Southeast Asian food concept is a prime example, in the earliest stages of proving that Chipotle’s success can be transferred to other types of foods, by continuing to focus on excellent ingredients, cooked with classic techniques in an open service format that allows people to customize their meals. The rice and noodle bowl dishes
with marinated meats, spicy sauces, and herbs and vegetables were immediate hits at the Washington DC debut in 2011.
AS AT&T WOULD SAY, IT’S NOT COMPLICATED. Chipotle’s elegantly simple business model is summed up in a single sentence on its website: “We aim to do a few things but do them exceptionally well.”
HIRE SMART, PROMOTE FROM WITHIN. Chipotle starts out by looking for employees with 13 characteristics: conscientious, respectful, hospitable, high energy, infectiously enthusiastic, happy, presentable, smart, polite, motivated, ambitious, curious and honest. They reward hourly workers with numerous opportunities to advance to salaried manager jobs, and the ultimate spot of well-paid “restaurateur,” overseeing multiple stores.
Chipotle Turns 20 1993
Steve Ells, a classically trained, Culinary Institute of America graduate, has an aha moment in San Francisco as he chows down on a burrito in the Mission District.
“It was stuffed with traditional Mexican ingredients and wrapped in foil. I’d never seen anything like it before but I had an idea I could use these authentic ingredients and put my own twists on them.” He opens the first Chipotle restaurant in Denver, Colorado.
1995 The second Chipotle opens, also
in Colorado.
1998 McDonald’s invests in Chipotle, a
first for the burger behemoth.
1999-2000 Chipotle
starts working with farmers’ cooperative Niman Ranch to offer naturally raised pork. Higher prices for carnitas results, but customers buy into the reason, and the pork. “It is where we began our quest for naturally raised meat, raised in a humane way and without the sub-therapeutic use of antibiotics or added hormones, and for better, more sustainable sources for everything we use. That quest continues to this day,” says Arnold.
2001 Chipotle starts working with Bell &
Evans for naturally raised chickens.
Saturday in the Park
They came for a burrito. They got so much more.
There was amazing artisanal food, top quality craft brews, big time celebrity chefs, groovin’ live indie bands, and a save-the-planet buzz, all set to a backdrop of Chicago’s sunniest venue, Lincoln Park. Chipotle’s Cultivate Festival was back, proving that the burrito blockbuster is a master at not only opening restaurants—1500 in every nook and cranny of America over the past 20 years says it—but at creating a movement. If the 25,000+ crowd of mainly Millennials didn’t know about Chipotle’s commitment to responsibly raised food before Cultivate’s September extravaganza, they were thoroughly impressed with its significance by the end of the day. That, and the opportunity to ‘learn a free burrito’ made it worth everyone’s while to amble through the acres of edible education.
2003
Naturally raised beef introduced at Chipotle.
2006
2008
2009
Chipotle goes public and McDonald’s fully divests themselves of its investment. Chipotle’s local sourcing program kicks into gear; by 2013, 15 million pounds of locally grown produce are used nationwide. Chipotle introduces its iPhone app for pre-ordering and pre-pay.
2010 James Beard award winner and
Next Iron Chef finalist Nate Appleman joins Chipotle as culinary manager.
2011 First Chipotle opens in London.
First Shop House Southeast Asian Kitchen concept restaurant opens in DC.
2012 First national televised commercial,
“Back to the Start,” airs in February.
the
“I felt much more connected at Cultivate
environment with a lot of passion. I eat there
than at other food or music fests. The people
at least twice a month and see the signs in
really care about what they’re serving, it’s
the store, but this is a real commitment and
not just another dollar in their pocket.”
“Chipotle
treats
the
food
and
they want everyone else to get on board.
21-YEAR-OLD, NORTH SUBURBS
This is a step in the right direction.” 22-YEAR-OLD, NORTHWEST SUBURBS
“My grandpa was a Mexican laborer and he ended up opening up a few taco stands
“I was looking for something to do on a
and so I have a big connection with Mexican
Saturday afternoon and was drawn to
food. Every time I go to Chipotle I think
Cultivate because of the music, food, and
about my grandpa and how he would have
atmosphere. Now that I’m here I realize
liked it.”
there’s so much more to do and learn.
36-YEAR-OLD, CHICAGO
Both the cinema experience and farm facts experience were eye opening for me and
“As a vegetarian, it’s important to me
gave me a different perspective on what it is
that Chipotle cares about their food, how
like to go through the process of preparing
it’s processed, how it’s distributed, how
the food I enjoy so often.”
it’s locally grown. And Cultivate is great,
22-YEAR-OLD, CHICAGO
it’s open to everyone, it’s free to come in, it really shows people what Chipotle stands for.” 19-YEAR-OLD, CHICAGO
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9 1
O P E R A T I O N S
SAFETY FIRST by Chef Jeffrey Merry
From slips and sprains to burns and cuts, kitchens can be a minefield of potential injuries. Simple steps to safety go a long way to limit their likelihood. Amid the hustle and bustle of peak hours, any number of things can go wrong in restaurant kitchens. An overcooked cod fillet, a dropped tray of dishes or an 86 on the most popular menu item pales in comparison, though, to more devastating uh-ohs. A badly burned hand, punctured thumb or a tumble on a greaseslicked floor are among the real disasters that can emerge from kitchens, events that are both damaging and costly. According to industry statistics, slips and falls, plus burns, cuts and puncture wounds, head the list of most frequent kitchen injuries. As with any issue, identifying why it might happen is the first step to creating a solution. Let’s stick with the main problems that arise in
9 2 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
the kitchen setting and look at some potential solutions for the operation.
PROBLEM : PUNCTURES & CUTS If you ponder the many foods that are sliced, diced and minced in a kitchen on any given day, the sheer possibility of an errant knife shouldn’t surprise anyone (in or out of the industry). Like any action repeated a million times over, human error occurs, especially when the need for speed is added to the equation.
SOLUTION : KNIFE SKILLS Appropriate equipment should be available— well maintained, sharp knives of the right size for each job. Basic knife skills must be taught at the kitchen’s entry level to every team member who handles them: cutting away from the body, positioning the hands in a safe way, proper pressure and use of the appropriate part of the knife. If you drop a knife, don’t reach for it. Let it fall to the floor. Each knife wielder must know how to walk around and handle a knife, either in hand or comfortably resting in a belt sheath. It sounds counterintuitive in some ways, but dull knives are more apt to cause injuries,
as unnecessary force often substitutes for what should be a clean, sharp knife. Put knife sharpening on a schedule, especially if it is an outsourced service. Another development for this kitchen blunder is a steel mesh hand glove. Although this is a great tool, especially when used with slicers, it should be viewed as a guard, not an impenetrable shield, regardless of its resemblance to a medieval knight’s shining armor.
PROBLEM : SLIPS & FALLS This is a problem waiting to happen in many kitchens. Water splashes. A mashed up piece of cooked onion falls to the floor. Or a case of Idahoes is plopped in the main pathway during a lunch rush. Someone walks by, unaware of the obstacle, and hits the ground hard. A sprained ankle, a big goose egg and a bruised ego happen all at once.
MANY KITCHEN INJURIES ARE AVOIDABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN SAFE PRACTICES ARE PUT IN PLACE. Here are 12 tips to reduce the likelihood of an accident: q Take a proactive approach to safety through training and proper staffing.
w Establish
a first-aid program, and make sure there is a kit handy with essential items such as bandages, ointments and splints.
PROBLEM : BURNS Unless you’ve revolutionized the restaurant industry with an all-cold-items menu, kitchens have to deal with high temperatures. Pots, pans, open flames, griddles, boiling liquids, hot fats and oils, and steam all are capable of inflicting serious burns and injury to kitchen staff.
SOLUTION : SAFE PRACTICES & COMMON SENSE Fortunately, the advice here is simple: common sense. We learned early in our lives that extremely hot (or extremely cold) temperatures cause pain. We don’t grab a hot handle without a handle mitt. Having kitchen awareness is crucial in this area: know what’s going on around the kitchen and keep that radar up. Bumping into a line cook holding a pot of steamy sauce or soup doesn’t often end well for anyone. Remember temperatures. Once oils get hot enough to cook with, you have to be concerned about splashing, especially when introducing moisture to the surface. Grease and oils will splash and can create a painful tap on any exposed skin. And it’s true that most kitchen workers know all of that. What often gets forgotten, though, in the heat of the covers battle, is that deliberate caution must always be used around all heat sources and hot food and equipment.
SOLUTION : CLEAN SURFACES, THE RIGHT SHOES & CLEAR PATHWAYS As with so many injuries, the risk of falls is pretty easy to effectively minimize. Matting placed in high-traffic pathways, especially in front of sinks and cooking areas, creates a non-slip surface that traps food and liquid underneath. Mats and flooring should always be in good repair, with loose tiles or holes fixed immediately. When spills happen, make sure others are made aware of them and then work to get them cleaned up ASAP. If necessary, carefully place a hazard sign at the site until it can be remedied. Footwear plays a big part in prevention, not just of slips but also of cuts and other puncturetype injuries. Soft shoes simply do not offer appropriate protection. Instead, advocate for sturdy shoes with heavy treaded soles. They should cover the entire foot to the ankle and always be tightly tied. Aisles and pathways should be kept clear of obstacles. There is a natural tendency to plop a box in the middle of anywhere during kitchen rush, but this does no one any favors. The chances of someone walking into it and going over are pretty high. n
e Make
sure the kitchen crew wears appropriate footwear. Soft shoes, including athletic and canvas shoes, do not offer sufficient protection. Sturdy shoes with treaded, slip-resistant soles are preferred. They should always be laced and snugly tied.
r Position pan handles to the back of cooking surfaces.
t Have
a protocol for cleaning spills and broken glass. Especially when they are on the floor, these must be addressed immediately, even during the height of the dinner rush. Place hazard signs around spills until they can be addressed.
y Do
not use kitchen work space to store boxes or other large items; these can easily result in trips and falls.
u Install non-slip matting in busy areas. i Train
workers in the proper use of any slicing equipment, from knives to electric meat cutters.
o Discourage
workers from wearing loose clothing in kitchens, especially near open flames.
a Make
sure hot pads are readily available and used; they are far safer than towels.
s Ensure that fryers are used correctly, have shields and ideally, self-lowering baskets.
d Encourage
safe lifting and moving of heavy items to avoids strains and sprains and, when necessary, make it a team effort.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9 3
UPCOMING EVENTS INTERNATIONAL FOODSERVICE EDITORIAL COUNCIL ANNUAL CONFERENCE
FOOD MARKETING INSTITUTE PRIVATE BRANDS BUSINESS CONFERENCES
Portland, OR 10/28/13 – 10/30/13 www.ifeconline.com
Rosemont, IL 11/16/13 – 11/17/13 www.fmi.org
NLS FOOD QUALITY SYMPOSIUM
PHILADELPHIA NATIONAL CANDY, GIFT & GOURMET SHOW
Phoenix, AZ 11/05/13 – 11/06/14 www.nextlevelsummits.com/index.php?page=NLS-Food-Safety-Quality-Summit&SummitID=3
Atlantic City, NJ 01/05/14 – 01/07/14 www.phillycandyshow.com
FOOD FILM FESTIVAL
NATIONAL POTATO COUNCIL ANNUAL MEETING
Chicago, IL 11/21/13 – 11/23/13 www.thefoodfilmfestival.com
San Antonio, TX 01/08/14 – 01/10/14 www.nationalpotatocouncil.org
GLOBAL FOOD EQUIPMENT & TECHNOLOGY SHOW
NASFT WINTER FANCY FOOD & CONFECTION SHOW
Chicago, IL 11/03/13 – 11/06/13 www.myprocessexpo.com
San Francisco, CA 01/19/14 – 01/21/14 www.specialtyfood.com
INTERNATIONAL DAIRY SHOW
AMERICAN MEAT INSTITUTE INTERNATIONAL MEAT EXPO
Chicago, IL 11/03/13 – 11/06/13 www.dairyshow.com FOOD INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION EXECUTIVES 86TH ANNUAL CONVENTION New Orleans, LA 11/6/13 – 11/08/13 www.fiae.net
9 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Atlanta, GA 01/28/14 – 01/30/14 www.meatami.com
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
REINHART FOOD SHOWS NEW ORLEANS DIVISION
SHAWANO DIVISION
Pontchartrain Center | Kenner, LA 1/29/14
ShopKo Hall | Green Bay, WI 4/22/14
KNOXVILLE & JOHNSON CITY DIVISION
CEDAR RAPIDS DIVISION
LeConte Center | Pigeon Forge, TN 3/11-12/14
Marriott | Coralville, IA 5/6/14
MILWAUKEE DIVISION
MARQUETTE DIVISION
Potawatomi Bingo & Casino | Milwaukee, WI 3/18/14
Lakeview Arena | Marquette, MI 5/14/14
EVERYBODY FEELS GOOD ABOUT SOUP Our premium soups taste incredible and soothe the soul. They provide you with a generous business building opportunity. Lunch, dinner or anytime, your customers can take comfort with satisfying favorites like Loaded Baked Potato, Broccoli Cheddar, Chicken Noodle, Chili or Tomato Bisque. Let Blount share the recipe for success. Call 800.274.2526 to discuss innovative, profitable ideas for your restaurant.
SQF LEVEL II CERTIFIED
www.blountfinefoods.com
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9 5
CHEF’S ESSENTIALS
Chatting w/Chef Brad Ozerdem Restaurant Inc sat down with the Chef Brad Ozerdem, Executive Chef at Gillette Stadium™ in Foxborough, MA. This Philly native started his career washing dishes and bussing tables. After a decorated career at Hyatt® Hotels, including a local American Culinary Federation® Boston Chapter Culinarian of the Year award, and Hyatt® Chef of the Year in 2012, Chef Ozerdem joined Gillette Stadium™ in 2005.
RESTAURANT INC:
RI:
Who is or was your culinary inspiration?
Chef Brad: The 8 pound repair hammer. Good for computers, desk phones, cell phones, printers. Next to that, my trusty 10-inch chef’s knife. Mac brand.
CHEF BRAD OZERDEM: It was the chef/owner named Harvey Glaze. He owned a restaurant called Haab’s in Ypsilanti, Michigan. It was a basic steakhouse, but Hardy was a great teacher. He never, ever got upset. He could teach you the same thing over and over in a very patient manner. He taught me how to cut steaks and how to handle aged meats. I was most inspired because of his way with people and the loyalty he commanded. He never settled for anything less than the finest and didn’t allow his staff to settle for anything less either.
RI: What is your favorite dish to make? Chef Brad:
What is your favorite kitchen tool?
RI:
If you could work with one person for a day, who would it be (alive or dead)? And why?
Chef Brad: I got fired once because I was a goofball and an immature prima donna. The owner told me when he sat down to terminate me that maybe this business isn’t right for me. I would love to work next to Rick right now and tell him that that talk in 1979 motivated me to better myself and to put myself on a tack of learning and performing. I would love for him to see how his words inspired another.
Grilled vegetables, grilled flatbread, and
grilled lamb.
RI:
RI:
Chef Brad:
What is your favorite dish to eat?
Chef Brad: Anything my lovely wife cooks for me. RI:
Italy or France. Who taught whom to cook?
Chef Brad:
I’m not sure. I’m old, but I’m not that old.
RI:
You’re hosting a dinner party and can invite six individuals (alive or dead). Who are your invitees?
Chef Brad:
Nikola Tesla, Albert Einstein, Benjamin Franklin, Leonardo da Vinci, Robert and Kylie—my children. I love being around genius and creativity. I would love my kids around it, too.
9 6 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
What would you like to know more about?
The purchasing trade. The more I learn about how the big houses distribute, the more I realize how little I know. I’m certain if I knew how the supply chain worked from the supply side, I could be much more effective in reaching cost objectives and making my own procurement efficient.
RI: How did you get started in the food business? Chef Brad: I was a dishwasher when I was 12 years old in a luncheonette where my mother was a server. I worked for like three dollars an hour. I worked for a Greek family and I learned about hard work. As hard as they worked me, as demanding as they were, they always worked harder than me. I have been working steadily ever since.
BIO – Chef Brad Ozerdem Born and raised in Philadelphia, PA, Ozerdem grew up in the restaurant business, starting with washing dishes and bussing tables. He got his first crack at prep cooking at the age of 16, where he made 30 gallons of onion soup every day. After his freshman year at Drexel University, where he studied chemistry, Ozerdem decided his true passion lay in cooking and headed for the restaurant world. He began his career with Hyatt Hotels as the chef in the fine dining restaurant at the Hyatt Regency Dearborn. From there he served in Hyatts in San Antonio, Arlington, VA, Richmond, Cambridge, and Boston. In 1999 he won the local American Culinary Federation Chapter Culinarian of the Year award, and continued to receive accolades in Boston. In 2000 he was named Regional Chef for Hyatt Northeast and in 2002 won Hyatt Chef of the Year. Chef Ozerdem wanted to stay in New England, but was looking for a new culinary challenge, and married these two wishes when he joined Gillette Stadium in July of 2005 as Executive Chef.
RI: Tell us about your own “kitchen nightmare.” Chef Brad: I try to avoid drama by proper planning and communicating. It’s rare that we have the clichéd kitchen nightmare. I think the closest I’ve had to a kitchen nightmare is when 40 gallons of lobster bisque was stored improperly and the next day was a giant soufflé in the walk-in. That was many, many, many, many years ago. n
Giving back to the community is very important to Brad. He had been actively involved in the annual Spinazzola Gala, Taste of the Nation and Chocolate Fool's Day. Brad has also taught cooking classes to at-risk teens at The Salvation Army. Brad has worked with the Boys and Girls Clubs of Boston and coordinates the post event donations with Feeding Our Neighbors to the Amos House. He currently is active with the New England Dairy Council in promoting the Fuel Up to Play 60 campaign. When not working in the kitchens at Gillette Stadium, Brad's other passions are his family, cooking, cycling, and photography.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9 7
WINTER SNEAK PEEK
Great Places in
NOLA
T
eam Reinhart had a ball in New England with some fantastic operators, and we’re off to the next adventure for our Winter Issue! We’ll be covering the iconic cuisine of New Orleans and specialties of its southern periphery. We are committed to finding anecdotes of wisdom and advice for success, tracking the latest trends, and bringing exciting stories from Reinhart Country. Mardi Gras, Bourbon Street, crawfish, BBQ shrimp, and more! It is hard to find a more spirited and cultural city in Reinhart Country! We encourage all readers of this magazine to help and participate in our initiatives. It’s a pleasure learning more about the operators we support.
If you’d like to contribute or be considered for content in the Winter Issue or subsequent issues, email Team Reinhart at magazine@rfsdelivers.com.
BELOW ARE A FEW HOT SPOTS WE HAVE OUR EYE ON FOR THE WINTER ISSUE:
Drago’s | New Orleans
Tableau | New Orleans
Celebrating a Louisiana legacy that stretches back hundreds of years ... and creating traditions that last, from their family to yours.
Located on picturesque Jackson Square at Le Petit Theatre, Tableau is Dickie Brennan’s newest restaurant. The cuisine is sophisticated, yet true to tradition, with great depth of flavor. Guests enjoy a front row seat to the culinary action beside the open kitchen in the restaurant’s main dining room.
To see more go to: www.dragosrestaurant.com
Ye Olde College Inn/ Rock n Bowl New Orleans Ye Olde College Inn is a family business in the truest sense of the term. Not only is it run by a family, but many of the family members are frequently present… even the children and grandchildren. Of course, Ye Olde College Inn is also a favorite of families all across the city. To see more go to: www.collegeinn1933.com
9 8 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
Steamboat Bill’s Lake Charles, LA Start with a high profile location, add an Authentic Cajun menu and a casual Riverboat atmosphere, top it off with a Crazy Crawfish as the mascot, and you’ve got a fun, family style seafood restaurant with Louisiana flair!
To see more go to: www.tableaufrenchquarter.com
To see more go to: www.steamboatbills.com
Crawfish Town USA Henderson, LA
Velvet Cactus New Orleans
Inside an authentic barn from the early 1900s, they’re known best in Lafayette and Henderson for boiled crawfish, top-grade beef and classic Cajun. They’re home to some of Louisiana’s most-respected and award-winning chefs serving the best in seafood, crawfish and Cajun.
The Velvet Cactus is where friends can enjoy Mexican inspired dishes while sipping a margarita made with fresh lime and cane sugar. The large outdoor patio makes customers feel like they’re on vacation, even if it is for a few hours.
To see more go to: www.crawfishtownusa.com
To see more go to: www.thevelvetcactus.com
OPERATOR INDEX
The Taste Taste of the Heartland The Heartland
The Abbey Group
Mann Orchards
6212 VT Route 105 Enosburg Falls, VT 05450 www.abbeygroup.net [PG.16]
27 Pleasant Valley Street Methuen, MA 01844 www.mannorchards.com
Carson’s Ribs
Publick House
Various Locations www.ribs.com
277 Main Street (RT 131) Sturbridge, MA 01566 www.publickhouse.com
[PG.82]
Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar 1310 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02215 www.citizenpub.com [PG.61]
Comal 2020 Shattuck Avenue Berkeley, CA 94704 www.comalberkeley.com
John Morrell Bottom Round Pot Roast Morrell Pot Roast UpscaleJohn diner fare has neverBottom been moreRound on-trend. Meaty entrées and sandwiches yournever patrons’ for comfort foodsentrées – and and John Upscale dinersatisfy fare has beendemand more on-trend. Meaty Morrell’s Bottom Pot Roastdemand is a versatile solutionfoods that –delivers sandwiches satisfyRound your patrons’ for comfort and John exceptional flavor and quality. Morrell’s Bottom Round Pot Roast is a versatile solution that delivers exceptional flavor andand quality. • USDA Choice Select beef • Slow cooked for a tenderbeef and flavorful pot roast • USDA Choice and Select Rich cooked flavor comes perfect blendpotof roast •• Slow for a from tendertheand flavorful spices andcomes seasonings • Rich flavor from the perfect blend of • Fully-cooked and fresh-packed spices and seasonings • Packed 2/12# pieces per case • Fully-cooked and fresh-packed • RFS product Number #89508 • Packed 2/12# pieces per case • RFS product Number #89508 Please contact your Reinhart Foodservice Sales Consultant for more detail or contact Please contact your Reinhart Foodservice Sales Consultant John Morrell Foodservice at 800-423-6203
for more detail or contact www.jmfgfoodservice.com John Morrell Foodservice at 800-423-6203
[PG.10]
[PG.14]
Marlow’s Tavern Various Locations www.marlowstavern.com [PG.82]
Mercadito Restaurants Various Locations www.mercaditorestaurants.com [PG.61]
[PG.82]
The Monkey Wrench
The Common Market Restaurants
1025 Barret Avenue Louisville, KY 40204
97 Willard Street Quincy, MA 02169 www.commonmarketrestaurants.com [PG.20]
Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse 75 Arlington Street Boston, MA 02116 www.davios.com [PG.18]
[PG.61]
Pauline’s Restaurant 1754 W. Balmoral Chicago, IL 60640 www.paulinesbreakfast.com [PG.82]
Perennial Virant 1800 N. Lincoln Avenue Chicago, IL 60614 www.perennialchicago.com [PG.24]
Doyle’s Café 3484 Washington Street Boston, MA 02130 www.doylescafeboston.com [PG.22]
Sylvain 625 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 www.sylvainnola.com [PG.61]
Geronimo Tequila Bar & Southwest Grill
Vermont Pub & Brewery
271 Crown Street New Haven, CT 06511 www.geronimobarandgrill.com
144 College Street Burlington, VT 05401 www.vermontbrewery.com
[PG.12]
[PG.48]
© 2013 John Morrell, Inc.
www.jmfgfoodservice.com © 2013 John Morrell, Inc.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 9 9
ADVERTISER’S INDEX
Alpha ™ Baking Co., Inc. www.alphabaking.com
[PG. 79]
Blount Fine Foods www.blountfinefoods.com
[PG. 95]
Continental Mills, Inc. Contact Our Advertisers: When contacting our advertisers, please mention you saw their ads here.
www.continentalmills.com
[PG.17]
Georgia-Pacific www.gp.com
[PG.42]
Heinz ® www.heinz.com
[PG.87]
John Morrell ® www.johnmorrell.com
[PG.99]
Markon ® www.markon.com
[PG.07]
McCain ® Foods www.mccainusa.com
[PG.60]
Nestle Professional ® www.nestleprofessional.com
[PG.46]
Rastellis Foods Group www.rastellifoodsgroup.com
1 0 0 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
[PG.38]
Roland ® Foods www.rolandfood.com
[PG.55]
WARMING UP
with winter cocktails
[Recipes continued from page 63]
Sara Lee® Bistro Collection™ www.bistrogourmetbakery.com
[PG. 31]
e
Schreiber Foods ® [tear out]
Sugar Foods Corporation www.sugarfoods.com
[PG. 44]
Unilever Food Solutions US www.unileverfoodsolutions.us
[PG. 74-77]
Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board www.eatwisconsincheese.com
[PG. 01]
©2013 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.
www.schreiberfoods.com
r
e THE CRIPPLER 3/4 oz 1/2 oz 1/2 oz 1 oz 1 barspoon 3 drops
Sombra Mezcal Rhum J.M Gold Old Overholt Rye Stroh Jagertee Yellow Chartreuse Bitter End Memphis Barbecue Bitters
// PREPARATION // Add first five ingredients to a mixing glass and add ice. Stir and strain into a cocktail glass. Add the bitters to the top of the cocktail.
MEXICAN MULLED CIDER r [Double A] 1.5 Liters 1/2 L stick handful 6L 6 whole 4 roasted 2 Tbsp 1.5 oz
Apple cider Mexican cinnamon Cloves Sprigs of thyme Black peppercorns Chiles de arbol, chopped Sugar Old Overholt Rye Whiskey
// PREPARATION // Combine all ingredients, except whiskey, in a large saucepan or teakettle and simmer for 15 minutes. Combine 4 ounces of the mulled cider with 1.5 ounces of whiskey. Top with fresh grated nutmeg and garnish with a sprig of thyme.
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 0 1
PEPPERCORN RUBBED FLAT IRON STEAK n // ingredients // 10 oz 1 tsp 8 Tbsp 2 sprigs TT
Flat Iron Steaks (flank steak can also be used) Ground Allspice Cracked Black Pepper Fresh Rosemary Leaved Chopped Kosher Salt
// preparation // 1. Mix black pepper and allspice together, set aside. 2. Sprinkle the pepper and allspice mixture on both sides of the steaks, to taste. 3. Put the steaks in the refrigerator for at least four hours. 4. Remove from the refrigerator and salt, to taste. Let stand for about 1/2 hour at room temperature before grilling. 5. An oven broiler can also be used. Cook to desired doneness. Remove from heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes. 6. Garnish with rosemary and serve.
HAVANA ROAST PORK t Makes 8 to 10 servings
// ingredients // 3/4 C 1/4 C 3/4 C 2 bay 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 3 large 1 (9-lb)
sour orange juice, or 3 oz each orange & lime juice lime juice olive oil leaves, broken in half freshly toasted & ground black pepper freshly toasted & ground cumin seeds cloves garlic, sliced thin fresh pork butt (not smoked), skin removed
// preparation // 1. Whisk together the juices, oil, spices, and sliced garlic. Now put the ham in a bag large enough to hold it and pour in the marinade. Tie up the bag. Let this marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 days and up to 4 days.
8. Pull apart the pork with 2 large forks. Strain the remaining drippings from the roasting pan and pour the jus over the pork. Toss and serve with coleslaw and an onion roll.
PORCHETTA l Makes 12 to 15 servings
// ingredients // 1 5-6 lb fresh pork belly, skin on 1 2-3 lb boneless, center-cut pork loin (trimmed) 3 Tbsp fennel seeds 2 Tbsp crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp minced fresh sage 1 Tbsp minced fresh rosemary 3 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt 1/2 orange, seeded, thinly sliced
2. Preheat oven to 325째F. 3. Take the pork out of the marinade and put it into a Dutch oven or roasting pan, fat side up. Cover and cook for 1-1/2 hours. 4. Turn it fat side down, cover and cook another 1-1/2 hours. 5. Turn the meat one last time and cook 1 hour more. Now the meat should be almost falling off the bone. If it is not, it needs more time covered in the oven. 6. Turn up the heat to 375째 F and cook, uncovered, 30 minutes to brown.
1 0 2 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
7. Now remove the roast to a cutting board and allow it to rest a few minutes.
// preparation // 1. Put belly skin side down; arrange loin in center. Roll belly around loin so the short ends of the belly meet. If any of the belly or loin overhangs, trim meat. Unroll; set loin aside. 2. Toast fennel seeds and red pepper flakes in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Put spices into a bowl; let cool. Finely grind spices and transfer to a small bowl, along with the sage, rosemary, and garlic; set fennel mixture aside.
F A L L
R E C I P E S
3. Follow “How to Assemble” steps below. 4. Refrigerate roast, uncovered, for 1-2 days to allow skin to air-dry; pat occasionally with paper towels. 5. Let porchetta sit at room temperature for 2 hours. Preheat oven to 500°F. Season porchetta with salt. Roast, turning once, for 40 minutes. Reduce heat to 300°F and continue roasting, rotating the pan and turning porchetta occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of meat registers 145°F, 1-1/2 to 2 hours more. If skin is not yet deep brown and crisp, increase heat to 500°F and roast for 10 minutes more. Let rest for 30 minutes. Using a serrated knife, slice into 1/2 inch rounds. HOW TO ASSEMBLE 1. Set belly skin side down. Using a knife, score the belly flesh in a checkerboard pattern 1/3 inch deep so roast will cook evenly. 2. Flip belly skin side up. Using a paring knife, poke dozens of 1/8 inch deep holes through skin all over belly. Don’t be gentle! Keep poking. 3. Using the jagged edge of a meat mallet, pound skin all over for 3 minutes to tenderize, which will help make skin crispy when roasted. 4. Turn belly and generously salt both it and loin; rub both with fennel mixture. Arrange loin down middle of belly. Top with orange slices. 5. Roll belly around loin; tie crosswise with kitchen twine at 1/2 inch intervals. Trim twine. Transfer roast to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
Find these and more recipes at: www.rfsdelivers.com
FA L L 2 0 1 3 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M 1 0 3
C O M M O D I T I E S
COMMODITIES TRACKING
LIVESTOCK
SOFTS
GRAINS
Keep your ear on the ground with commodity pricing, as it dictates food costs. Below are select prices as of September 23, 2013.*
description
units price contract
CBOT Corn
USd/bu.
452.00
Dec 13
CBOT Wheat
USd/bu.
652.25
Dec 13
CBOT Oats
USd/bu.
309.50
Dec 13
CBOT Rough Rice
USD/cwt
15.52
Nov 13
CBOT Soybeans
USd/bu.
1,307.75
Nov 13
CBOT Soybean Meal
USD/st
409.20
Dec 13
CBOT Soybean Oil
USd/lb.
42.09
Dec 13
description
units price contract
ICE Cocoa
USD/mt
2,610.00
Dec 13
ICE Coffee “C”
USd/lb.
116.90
Dec 13
ICE Sugar #11
USd/lb.
17.77
Mar 14
description
units price contract
CME Live Cattle
USd/lb.
130.55
Dec 13
CME Feeder Cattle
USd/lb.
162.28
Nov 13
CME Lean Hogs
USd/lb.
86.38
Dec 13
*SOURCE: Bloomberg.com
Is there a commodity you’d like to see on the chart? Email us at magazine@rfsdelivers.com with your suggestion.
1 0 4 R F S D E L I V E R S . C O M FA L L 2 0 1 3
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I S S U E
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n
F A L L
2 0 1 3
Carnivorous Comforts Breaking Down Meats
Growing Concerns
pg. 32
Expanding your Restaurant
INC
pg. 82
| the business of food | FA L L 2013
In Our Communities A Pilgrimage to New England pg. 08
Beverage Section Fall & Winter Brings Ales & Cozy Cocktails pg. 47
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