Restaurant Inc. Winter 2015 by Performance & Reinhart Foodservice Publications

VOL

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WINTER

2015

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R E S TA U R A N T I N C

pg. 56

| the business of food | ISSUE 01: 2015

In Our Communities

Local Options

Beverage Section

Heartland’s Melting Pot Metropolis

Exploring Farm-to-Table

Create Your Vibrant Bar Scene

pg. 16

pg. 30

pg. 78

Now Taking To Go Orders!

TRACS Direct To Go 速

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRY OUR FREE INDUSTRY-LEADING KITCHEN MANAGEMENT PROGRAM FOR YOUR iPhone Harness these powerful tools with our new app: TRACS Direct To Go!

速速 Download at the Apple App Store or contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information. SM

TRACS Direct To Go syncs up with your existing TRACS Direct account. Must be a Reinhart Customer to utilize TRACS Direct and TRACS Direct To Go.

TRACS Direct To Go 速

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRY OUR FREE INDUSTRY-LEADING KITCHEN MANAGEMENT PROGRAM FOR YOUR iPhone Harness these powerful tools with our new app: TRACS Direct To Go!

速速 Download at the Apple App Store or contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information. SM

TRACS Direct To Go syncs up with your existing TRACS Direct account. Must be a Reinhart Customer to utilize TRACS Direct and TRACS Direct To Go. ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 1

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

elcome to 2015, and the start of our third year of Restaurant Inc, dedicated to helping Reinhart operators flourish in the business we all treasure. It’s a business that rewards hard work, resilience and passion, and we have enormous respect for our operators who demonstrate this in great measure every day. And it’s why your story, not ours, is at the center of every page in this magazine. Our mission as a publication, and more globally as a company, is to provide you with resources and solutions to help you grow and thrive. Every one of the 5,000 employees at Reinhart is dedicated to building relationships with you, our valued customers, which in turn help you build your business. The synergy that results is a phenomenon that can only be earned through unselfish partnership: we all become better, stronger and more successful. Looking back on 2014, I saw this delivered in numerous ways across our network. Case in point: the recent business-building seminar held at our Pittsburgh division, featuring a full day of highly valuable advice from industry experts Tim Kirkland and Gerry O’Brion. They honed in on today’s top operational challenges — how to sell the most profitable menu items, how to hire the right people, how to increase tips, how to market your brand. The response from local operators was resounding and extremely gratifying, as the value of this session was instinctively realized.

We know, our competitors may offer training seminars as well, but these are almost always tied into a mutually self-serving philosophy. Our approach is completely different, with no strings attached, no sales pitch or special promotions. Instead, it’s based on our belief that your success matters equally to us both. That’s a message we’ll keep strengthening with resources that help keep your doors open wide and your traffic flowing. Our industry seminars are planned for a broader launch across more divisions in 2015, extending this gift of knowledge to operators across Reinhart country. In addition to these seminars you’ll find immediate access to an ever deeper, broader bench of experts in our local divisions, ready to offer seasoned counsel drawn from their own years on the front lines as chefs and restaurateurs. And we’ll continue to pack this magazine with curve-bending trends, culinary inspiration and proven best practices designed to propel you into the winner’s circle. We’ll provide you with every tool we have – and some we haven’t yet imagined – to help you create your own success story. Our greatest privilege will be to share it in the pages of Restaurant Inc.

Eric Cronert Editor-in-Chief

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PH I L L I P S F O O D S E R V I C E . C O M PH I L L I P S F O O D S E R V I C E . C O M PH I L L I P S F O O D S E R V I C E . C O M PH I L L I P S F O O D S E R V I C E . C O M

Chesapeake Crab Cake Minis, Salt & Pepper Calamar i, Veget ar ian Pot s t icker s, rParbe tCzCake ae kl se aMMinis, dCChesapeake e hc ea sdaepn et aCkrea bCCrab n idn ims ,o Sr ea.l t & Salt & Pepper Calamari, r i na ins ,P So tasl t i c&k e r s , CP eh pe ps ae pr eCaaklea mCar ar ib, VCeagke t aMVegetarian CPdPot sm,PoSormore. eh cpe apsStickers, dae epr neCtaakClear m aCCrab bar arPib,r eVCtPretzels ezagekelest aMarnii nadinand taesl .tt i c&k e r s , Pd ee cp ap de er nCt aCl ar m a ba rPi ,r eVt ez ge el st aarni adn mPoortes.t i c k e r s , decadent Crab Pretzels and more. ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 3 12/2/14 12:35 PM 12/2/14 12:35 PM

CONFIDENCE I N E V E RY C ASE .

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TABLE OF CONTENTS 08 Trending Now 10 2015 Predictions What's Hot, What's Not 16 In Our Communities Chicago, Our Kind of Town 30 Local Options: Exploring Farm-to-Table 37 How to Transform Into a Farm-to-Table Concept

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert COPY EDITOR Sophia Venetos ART DIRECTION & LEAD DESIGNER

39 Serve Up a Message Farm-to-Table Collections

Jenn Bushman DESIGNER Drew Frigo PHOTOGRAPHERS Dan Coha &

41 Chicago's Ethnic Dining Scene

Jenn Bushman ADVERTISING SALES

44 Toast of the Town

Christin Doyle ADVERTISING INFORMATION:

48 In a Pig's Eye... & Ears, Nose, Tail

For rates/media kit, contact Christin at cdoyle@rfsdelivers.com.

52 High on the Hog with James Briscione

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS/WRITERS Min Casey, Mary Daggett, Min Johnson, Mindy Kolof, Audarshia Townsend

Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or magazine@rfsdelivers.com

RI_BODY_Issue1_2015_1.indd 5

photo by Dan Coha

Cover Image | Dan Coha

54 2015 Healthy Resolutions 56 Food Fight: The Ultimate Pairing

ÂŠ2015 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered ISS U E 1 , 2 or 0 1otherwise) 5 R F S D of E Ltheir I V E respective R S . C O Mowners. 5

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TOC co n t in u e d 72 Learn the Different Types Beer Glasses 74 Steak 101 78 Create Your Own Vibrant Bar Scene 82 Teddy's Where the Customer Comes First 85 2015 Must-Have Kitchen Tools 88 The Service Mindset 92 Snap. Chat. Eat. Post. Repeat. 97 Plate Accompli 100 Don't Rest on your Laurels... Roll Up Your Sleeves 102 | 103 Calendar of Events Upcoming Food Shows 104 Sneak Peek Great Places in Pittsburgh 106 | 107 Operator Index | Ad Index 108 Commodities Tracking

6 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Dips For D I S T I N C T I O N

Cravable Combo

Honey Mustard Dressing + BBQ Sauce

Fire Pit BBQ slather wings with a mixture of BBQ Sauce, Mayo, Hot Sauce and lemon juice after baking or frying

Grilled Shrimp tossed with butter + sriracha-spiked Cocktail Sauce

Reinhart offers multiple convenient dressings and sauces to enhance almost every recipe as is or with simple tweaks. Get flavor right from us. Foodservice I S S U E 1ÂŠ2014 , 2 0 1 5 Reinhart RFSDEL I V E R S . C O ML.L.C. 7

T R E N D I N G

N O W

QB Quick Bites for Your Brain

Before we dive into all the goods of this issue, here’s a look at what’s going on in foodie culture as we speak!

What We’re Following @ChefPaulYoung

@chefsfeed

@Foodimentary

Reinhart’s expert chef shows you the latest food trends, scrumptious dishes, and more.

Reviews, authoritative perspectives and industry culture from top chefs.

Fun food facts all the time.

Five Different Dishes,

One Unique Ingredient

Stanton Social in New York City

SAUTEED KALETTE Meyer lemon, crispy capers, olive oil

f you haven’t heard of kalettes yet, you will soon. This brand-new veggie is a hybrid of brussels sprouts and kale, and it hit shelves this past fall. Its distinctive marriage of nutty and sweet flavors makes it an appealing and healthy ingredient for restaurants, especially when you consider the surging popularity kale has seen in the last few years. But are chefs incorporating kalettes yet or is it simply too soon for this crossbreed? We took a look at some of ways this veggie is making menus across the country and found it's popping up all over, ranging from side to appetizer to protein enhancer.

Grays on Main, Franklin, TN

STUFFED PHEASANT Stuffed pheasant breast, grilled jalapeno & smoked white cheddar, wrapped in Benton’s Bacon, served with sautéed kalette, sweet potato mashers, fig and bourbon BBQ sauce

For Your

Smartphone

$26

8 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

FOOD SCORES BY ENVIRONMENTAL WORKING GROUP: This app houses information on tens of thousands of foods in a simple, searchable online format designed to guide consumers to healthy, affordable food that’s good for people and the planet.

TACO BELL: Easily select a local Taco Bell, customize your favorite items and pay for your order. No need to select a pick-up time.

NYT COOKING: Browse, search, save and organize more than 15,000 recipes from The New York Times, featuring beautiful photography, easy-to-follow instructions and curated collections from trusted cooks.

Interested in recommending a book, app or Twitter account? Email magazine@rfsdelivers.com with your suggestion. Thanks!

he restaurant ticketing system platform will launch in early 2015 and restaurant owners should take note. Tock gives restaurant owners the option of how many tables to set aside for pre-purchased, table-holding "deposit tickets." These deposit tickets allow restaurants to bring in diners by offering a discount to book ahead. It takes the idea of reservations many steps further. We'll share more in our spring issue.

Secchia Institute for Culinary Education - Heritage Restaurant, Grand Rapids, MI

CARAMELIZED KALETTES

The Tavern, Tulsa, OK

Sweet and tart orange vinaigrette with orange supremes

BONE IN PORK CHOP Kale colcannon, kalettes, guinness mustard cream

$6.99

$24

Rayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Boathouse Seattle, WA

SABLEFISH IN SAKE KASU Jasmine rice, fried kalettes, ginger-oyster sauce

$32

For Your Nightstand

5 1

Edible Insects Health & Wellness

Oysters Big Bold Flavor

Sriracha

Wagyu Beef

Predictions for What’s Hot and What’s Not

We’ve gazed into our crystal ball and placed our fingers on the throbbing pulse of the industry. With a little help from our friends – food experts across the nation – here are some predictions on the trends that will have major impact on foodservice in 2015. 10 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

David Kamen PROJECT MANAGER, CIA CONSULTING CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA, HYDE PARK, N.Y. The first overarching trend that I see is the importance of health and wellness. Not so much the counting of calories or carbs or fat grams, but a more holistic approach in terms of personal, emotional and physical well-being. How we feel will impact what we eat and what we eat will impact how we feel. Americans are seeking balance. One day, depending upon how they feel, they may opt for macaroni and cheese. The next day, they’ll make more healthful adjustments in what they eat to balance the comfort food from the previous day. The second trend is a continuation of big, bold flavors. Smoking, pickling and fermenting and charring, searing and browning are all techniques that deliver the multi-faceted flavor impact that is so appealing to diners. And thirdly, I see major acceptance of Micro-Asian cuisine – Vietnamese, Laotian and Thai. One popular dish, Pho, the traditional Vietnamese soup consisting of broth, vegetables, noodles and just a few-paper thin slices of meat, actually fits the health and wellness trend to a T. In these countries, meat is used not so much as a slab on the plate but more as an ingredient, alongside legumes, mung beans and noodles. It’s a cost issue and a fat issue. I see a decrease in cuisines based on animal proteins and an increase in vegetable proteins.

Rhys Lewis EXECUTIVE CHEF, WILLIAMSBURG LODGE, WILLIAMSBURG, VA Preservation is a trend that I certainly support. One category that I see expanding in the new year is fermented foods. Kimchi is popping up all over the place. We have extensive gardens here, so I plan to continue to do a lot of pickling of vegetables and unusual cucumbers such as the Caribbean burr gherkin. We’ll also continue preserving jams and other items. People really appreciate our oldschool ways of preparing food. Our ancestors did these things to preserve foods out of necessity. Today, we also use time-honored techniques such as brining, smoking, pickling and preserving to enhance flavors. We anticipate continuing our "Garden to Guest" concept in 2015. Our guests like the fact that they can tour our gardens, then come inside and dine on foods we grow just outside the door. Americans’ love of chocolate is certainly a trend that I see expanding, especially because research shows that dark chocolate has tremendous health benefits. Oysters seem to be more popular than ever. We’re fortunate to have such a close proximity to the Chesapeake Bay. And, I predict that foods paired with micro-beers and bourbon will see even more play.

TECHNOLOGY Tech at the Table and Behind the Counter: Emerging uses for Google Glass’s face-recognition software and data from ApplePay and other electronic wallets; pay-before-dining systems for restaurants with reservations backlog; tech-enabled ordering before arrival, at the table and paying with smartphones streamlines experience for diners and guests; touchscreen ordering that lets diners customize their orders at point of sale; online loyalty reward clubs explode.

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 11

Justin Massa

Johnny Blancher

CEO/FOUNDER, FOOD GENIUS, CHICAGO, IL

YE OLDE COLLEGE INN, NEW ORLEANS, LA

In 2015, healthful foods will cut across all categories. We will notice more and more menus highlighting the health attributes of items. In cases where foods aren’t particularly nutritional, operators will find other benefits to mention. For example, in the case of burgers, protein content might be the listed health benefit.

I’m seeing lobster as the protein that’s going to be making more of an impact in 2015. In fact, we’re developing a lobster cannoli for our spring menu.

This will also be the year that online ordering really explodes. I predict that by the end of next year, nearly all of the top 100 chains will have instituted this capability. I also see a lot of culinary experimentation at the chain level. Another megatrend that I am seeing is authentic ethnic items appearing on mainstream menus. Examples of this would be German spaetzle and Korean kimchi. A small trend that I hope catches on because I love them so much is Shishito peppers. They are small, sweet Japanese peppers that are tempura battered then fried. Approximately one in 12 turns out to be very spicy. And, I predict that kale is the new kale. It will continue to grow in popularity.

We are fortunate to have our own farm, and we certainly see sustainability and locally grown produce as continuing trends next year and beyond. We will continue to grow a lot of tomatoes because our customers love them. We plant heirlooms, black pearl, purple and a variety of small tomatoes. And we will surely continue to plant lots of kale. Kale is here to stay, because there isn’t any reason for it to go away. It’s nutritious, and you can toss it in salads, bake it, sauté it or use it as a garnish to provide color to the plate. In terms of different cuisines, I am seeing more and more Indian restaurants here in New Orleans. I know they’re everywhere, but I was surprised to see such a proliferation here, where Creole and Cajun foods reign.

GLOBAL CONNECTIONS ASIAN ADVANCES: Northern Thai, Filipino and Vietnamese foods go mainstream, Korean breaks out, spicy ramen noodles go upscale, Binchotan (Japanese charcoal) burns it up at the grills. HUMMUS RISING: The Arab-Israeli chick pea dip, high in protein and fiber and low in fat, out-trends salsa.

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Paul Young

Erin Buntin

REINHART MIDWEST DIVISION CHEF MILWAUKEE/CHICAGO

SCHREIBER FOODS, GREEN BAY, WI

The comfort food craze will continue. People will still yearn for the simpler foods that remind them of their childhoods. To support this craze, creative chefs will put fresh spins on the old classics, such as macaroni and cheese and pizza – using unusual cheeses, additional ingredients and different pasta shapes for the former and flatbread crusts and unconventional ingredients for the latter. Small plates ain’t just for tapas anymore, and will be incorporated into menus at more and more mainstream restaurants because diners love to experiment and share.

We are a global dairy manufacturer, so I am focused on the big flavors trend. Just a small amount of a robust cheese, such as Asiago, can have major impact on the flavor of any dish, any part of day. The cheese course is still going strong with the proliferation of amazing artisanal cheeses.

Dining as an experience will grow as consumers make the most of their leisure-time pursuits and disposable income. I also see lots of chefs evolving their skills at smoking and curing their own meats, and pickling and fermenting vegetables. Techniques used centuries ago for preserving foods are being rediscovered as fantastic flavor builders.

I am seeing more chefs pay attention to kids’ menus – making them more upscale. The ubiquitous chicken tenders and fries are sharing billing with build-your-own burgers and design-your-own pizzas. The Greek yogurt craze has gone mainstream, but ethnic yogurts (such as Asian) are appearing. Chefs are making their own yogurts, using interesting and unusual flavors. Another interesting yogurt trend is balls that hold their shape with the addition of gelatin.

HEALTH & WELLNESS MATCHA MADNESS: The crushed green tea leaves of Matcha spread their nutrient power — antioxidants, L theanine, and beta carotenes. THE NATURAL: Agave syrup replaces high fructose corn syrup in baked goods, sauces, and drinks. Or sub in for maple syrup or molasses. BACTERIA BOOSTERS: Fermented foods, live cultures in foods like yogur and sauerkraut take center stage. PREP PAD: Apps scan the plate to provide instant nutritional and ingredient info.

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 13

Dana Tanyeri

Demetrio Marquez

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, RESTAURANT DEVELOPMENT+DESIGN, ELMHURST, IL

CORPORATE CHEF, REINHART NEW ORLEANS DIVISION

I see continuing expansion of the fast casual segment – both chain units and independents – especially pizza, Indian and Mediterranean concepts.

Everyone still wants comfort food, but chefs are elevating what mama used to make with upscale ingredients and new techniques.

Meatless and vegetarian are gaining momentum. Fine dining chefs will continue to introduce casual concepts. Customer-facing technology will explode in the next year or two.

Technology is playing a major role in the industry. Diners take pictures of their plate before they start eating and post on Facebook. This can be great publicity, unless the diner was not pleased. Micro farms, fresh and organically grown foods will remain hot. Not only does this trend support local farmers, but it also offers the restaurant a unique brand identity. This is true in our region especially with what I like to call the Swamp to Table movement. Operators celebrate all of the natural foods that grow in abundance here, especially shrimp, crab, oysters and crawfish. Micro breweries and seasonal beers are abundant everywhere. Street fare from food trucks and street vendors is still growing.

ADVENTUROUS EATING CANNABIS CUISINE: Beyond brownies to confections, bars and coffee. GLOBAL-LOCAL MASHUP: Global ingredients mix it up, birthing combos such as Moroccan flavored Israeli couscous, prepared American-style. EVERYTHING BUT THE SQUEAL: Offal, intestines, and lesser cuts of the animal; more guanciale, fried ears, cheeks, and 'nduja, a spreadable sausage from unmentionable parts of the pig.

SMOKIN’: Chefs apply smoking to add new flavor to proteins, vegetables, butters. IS THAT A FLY IN YOUR SOUP? Insects creep into protein bars, cookies, powders.

Deb Paquette

Jeffrey Merry

EXECUTIVE CHEF, ETCH RESTAURANT, NASHVILLE, TN

CORPORATE CHEF, REINHART BOSTON DIVISION

First and foremost – big, bold flavors. Next, vegetarian. I love my farmers. We get the best locally sourced produce. Our menu is reflective of this, and even men are loving it. Unusual turnips, such as Japanese and scarlet, plus rutabagas and watermelon radishes, are offering chefs great opportunities for various cooking techniques, such as braising, sautéing, roasting, etc. Another hot trend is the resurgence of the open kitchen. Diners love watching chefs create, and I believe that chefs make better food when they know their customers are looking.

I see the locally sustainable movement growing bigger and bigger, with boutique farms cropping up. Freshly cut meats are important, as are grass-fed beef and antibiotic-free and hormone-free meats and poultry. There is a trade-off here, because these products are more expensive. Small plates will continue to grow as more and more people warm to sharing and trying lots of new dishes. Kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower are still going strong. Operators are embracing vegetarian and using lots of whole grain products. Chefs are educating themselves on foods that appeal to vegans and to those with gluten intolerance and food allergies. Regionalized Asian flavor profiles are growing – Korean, Thai and Vietnamese are all popular.

Mitch Omer CHEF/OWNER, HELL’S KITCHEN, MINNEAPOLIS, MN People will continue to demand a great dining experience and value for their dollars. Today’s consumer is taking a very serious look at the meat they consume. They want it to be hormone-free and grass fed. The bison we serve comes from a Wisconsin farm, and I sell enough to command the entire herd. We also have kangaroo on the menu. We started with burgers, and now we’re serving steaks, which are in great demand. I’m as shocked as you are! More and more chefs are making their own scratch signature items in their kitchens. We make our own peanut butter, ketchup, mustard and jams. Vegetarian is also growing fast, along with the practice of having something on the menu for everyone – including vegans, those with lactose and gluten intolerance and food allergies. One trend I’d love to see disappear is molecular cuisine. We did that back in the 80s with nouvelle cuisine. The secret to success is to start with great ingredients, then don’t mess with them so much. n

THE RESTAURANT SCENE CROWDED PLAYING FIELD: Designers add restaurants to retail stores, hotels; grocery stores vie for share; growth of gourmet meal kits for easy home cooking; branded meal delivery services from Google, Amazon and a host of new startups. INFORMALITY RULES: Fast casual takes on new believers as top chefs vie to be the next Chipotle with noodle, sushi, pizza, chicken franchises. Footer Sources: Technomic, Datassential, Sterling & Rice, MenuTrends, Baum + Whiteman, Phil Lempert

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our kind of town...

I INN O U R OCUORM M U N I T I E S C O M M U N I T I E S

Heartland’s Melting Pot Metropolis by Mary Daggett

n this issue, we spotlight one of the world’s great cities and the home of our Reinhart headquarters. Chicago may be nicknamed “The Second City,” but it doesn’t take a back seat to any other place in the world. Over 45 million visitors travel here each year. It’s difficult to imagine that this sophisticated, soulful city had humble beginnings as a frontier trading post in the early 19th century. By 1850, the city was already flexing its broad shoulders, as 30,000 people from across the globe had settled here. By 1900, hundreds of thousands of Irish, Germans, Italians, Poles and other Europeans, as well as African Americans from the South, had come to Chicago – all searching for a better life. Later influxes brought Hispanics and Asians. Today, the city encompasses 237 square miles inhabited by over 2,700,000 residents, with millions more in the suburbs of Cook County. Chicago is the nation’s busiest aviation center, with O’Hare and Midway International Airports.

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 17

OUR

COMMUNITIES

his melting pot metropolis celebrates its rich cultural heritage with 77 distinct neighborhoods: The Loop, named for the circuit the elevated train takes through the heart of town; Wrigleyville, home to Wrigley Field and the beloved Chicago Cubs; tony Lincoln Park; the well-heeled Gold Coast; the trendy Wicker Park, Streeterville and its skyscrapers – just to name a few. The always amazing Magnificent Mile refers to a stretch of Michigan Avenue where one can indulge in retail therapy, dine sumptuously and luxuriate in the finest hotels. The city offers a plethora of sightseeing opportunities, sports venues, 26 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline, 552 parks, hundreds of art galleries and theaters, plus 36 annual parades celebrating the city’s diversity.

Windy City ” ?

has proven otherwise.

Why is

“

CHICAGO dubbed the

Jutting out into Lake Michigan is Navy Pier, the city’s No.1 tourist attraction, with its ferris wheel, cruise boat launches, shopping and dining. Millennium Park boasts the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a live music venue that holds 11,000. Also in the park is Anish Kapoor’s “Cloud Gate,” a 100-ton stainless steel sculpture affectionately known as “The Bean.” The Museum of Science and Industry is the largest science museum in the Western Hemisphere. The Art Institute claims one of the world’s most extensive collections of Impressionist and PostImpressionist artwork.

Music lovers will find their genre – from the worldrenowned and Grammy-Award rich Chicago Symphony Orchestra and the Lyric Opera to piano bars to iconic blues clubs such as the inimitable Buddy Guy’s Legends. Anything can happen musically in Chicago. In fact, one night way back in 1981, surprised night-clubbers at Buddy Guy’s old south-side club, The Checkerboard Lounge, were delighted to see the Rolling Stones grooving with Muddy Waters and several other blues greats well into the wee hours. The Chicago restaurant scene is every bit as vibrant as its blues scene, and as noteworthy as we have found anywhere. Famous names such as the late Charlie Trotter, Rick Bayless, Rich Melman, Carrie Nahabedian, Rick Tramonto, Michael Kornick and many others helped to put Chicago at the forefront of the foodservice industry. On the following pages, explore with us as we visit a cross-section of restaurants that illustrate the complex culinary character of this cosmopolitan treasure.

hile true that it’s usually incredibly windy in Chi-Town, Mother Nature’s fury isn’t responsible for the Windy City moniker.

Actually, politicians and urban rivalries are how the term “windy” became synonymous with the city. Chicago politicians have long been known for their loquaciousness. Add to this the fact that many political conventions, rallies and whistle-stop speeches occurred here because of the city’s natural advantages and central location; therefore, it’s understandable that there were many sources for the hot air swirling through town. Rival Midwestern cities vying for attention took umbrage at the pride displayed by Chicagoans and boastful promoters, and dubbed this pride as simply “a lot of wind.” History

18 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

1. Prohibition ends and patrons celebrate The Berghoff 2. Exterior of The Berghoff in Chicago 3. Reuben Sandwich

Berghoff Catering & Restaurant Group Chicago Icon for 117 Years by Mary Daggett

The Berghoff is one of those quintessential Chicago landmarks, and its success is the stuff of which immigrant dreams are made. As a teenager, Herman Joseph Berghoff immigrated to the United States from Dortmund, Germany. The year was 1870. By 1887, he and his three brothers were brewing Berghoff beer in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Hoping to expand the market for his beer beyond Indiana, Herman decided to test the waters at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. Inspired by the wide acclaim his beer received from fair-goers, he opened a men’s-only saloon in 1898, where he offered a stein of beer for a nickel and threw in a corned beef sandwich to sweeten the deal. During Prohibition, the bar expanded into a full-service restaurant out of necessity, serving near beer, Bergo Soda Pop, and that world-famous Berghoff Root Beer. By the end of Prohibition, the restaurant had earned its own strong reputation. In 1933, the Berghoff was granted Chicago’s first liquor license.

www.theberghoff.com

Fast forward to 2015, and the fourthgeneration family torch is being carried by Chef Carlyn Berghoff. She trained at the Culinary Institute of America – one of only six females in the class of 1982 – before starting her own catering business, Artistic Events. When her parents decided to retire and shuttered the restaurant in 2006, Carlyn bought the assets and moved her catering operation to the historic Berghoff Building. “We kept the lower level café open after my parents closed the main restaurant,” Carlyn Berghoff said. “Each day, I was besieged by customers at the café, practically begging me to reopen the Berghoff. This grew into a grassroots groundswell that I could not ignore. Even though my expertise had been catering, I knew that the one common denominator between being a successful caterer and a successful restaurateur was great food. So, I plunged myself into on-the-job training in how to operate a large iconic restaurant (with the heritage of three generations behind

me), and I re-opened the Berghoff the very next year. Luckily, everything came together and we’ve been going strong ever since.” Chef Berghoff now operates the catering company, bar, dining room (seats 350-400), café and an O’Hare Airport café – with a little help from her 508 employees. Her company is called Berghoff Catering and Restaurant Group. How does a restaurant survive 117 years, in one of the most competitive restaurant markets in the nation? “We keep changing with the times,” said Ashley Mazur, the company’s media spokesperson. “Just as Herman Berghoff made adjustments to his business during Prohibition, Carlyn Berghoff has changed the operation when necessary. For example, the main dining room has a more casual ambience today, and the café responds to busy lifestyles with quickserve and takeout – both downtown and at O’Hare, in the United Terminal. Carlyn updates the menu to reflect current trends -- while remaining true to the German roots upon which the foundation was built. We still have those classic German signature dishes that people love. Wiener Schnitzel with German Fried Potatoes is still the No.1 selling menu item, but we have a great selection of foods with an American twist, vegetarian items and gluten-free dishes. We are also a destination for the craft beers trend, and our servers are trained to know which beers pair well with menu items. Each month, we sponsor ‘Flights and Bites,’ special pairing events that match five Berghoff beers with five complementary foods.” The Berghoff also offers a perfect venue for large parties and holiday celebrations. “We’re packed to the rafters during Oktoberfest,” Mazur said. “And during the months of November and December, we typically serve 35,000 guests, just in the restaurant alone.”

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Three Aces

Unconventional Eatery and Cocktail Lounge by Audarshia Townsend

Three Aces stands out in Chicago’s historic Little Italy neighborhood for so many reasons. While owner Anthony Potenzo boasts a rich ItalianAmerican heritage, he decided to open an unconventional eatery and cocktail lounge that’s more rock ‘n’ roll than risotto. He and partner Lyle Aker more accurately have dubbed its concept as “the Italian countryside meets the American farmhouse – in Keith Richards’ basement bar.” He’s equally proud that there’s brunch seven days a week. The restaurant fetes its fifth anniversary in 2015, and Potenzo credits much of its success to Matt Troost, a seemingly quiet culinary artist who allows his food to do all the talking. “(Matt) thought we were crazy when we first approached him about our concept,” recalls Potenzo about the early days when they initially sat down with the talented toque to talk food before they even had a location for the restaurant. “We just wanted to do what we do, a rock bar with really good food. There have been other restaurants with a rock vibe, but because people respect Matt’s style of cooking, we’re on a different level. This is a guy who takes his art seriously, but he doesn’t wear chef whites. He wears a rock ‘n’ roll T-shirt and listens to hip-hop in the kitchen.” Potenzo admits that during Three Aces’ early days they struggled with some customers who didn’t understand the theme. But their fans outnumbered the naysayers, which helped them become one of the most buzzed-about destinations

20 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

in the city. Most important, they’ve become a popular neighborhood hangout, especially for the heavy concentration of college students frequenting the area. “There’s not much public transportation going through the area, so we rely heavily on people from the community,” admits Potenzo. “We draw a younger clientele than a lot of the older restaurants. We intentionally target a different audience.” Potenzo, who wears flashy suits and rides a Harley, is the most colorful character of the managing team, which includes business partner Aker, another restaurant industry veteran. Their effective partnership led them to open a second Chicago venture, Charlatan, in late 2014. It’s somewhat similar to Three Aces in that it serves a few “Italian countryside” dishes, but they’ve literally upped the game by serving wild game ranging from roast pheasant to braised oxtail. Their rock ‘n’ roll attitude, of course, is along for the ride. “Our style is much, much different [than other Chicago restaurants],” says Potenzo about the two restaurants. “Our achievement is marrying a rock ‘n’ roll vibe with chefdriven food. We aren’t just trying to be different. It’s just who we are.”

redeyechicago.com

"We just wanted to do what we do, a rock bar with really good food." threeaceschicago.com

2. 1. Exterior of Three Aces 2. A crowd enjoys food and music at Three Aces. 3. Chef Mindy Segal of Mindy's Hot Chocolate 4. Exterior of Mindy's Hot Chocolate

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate Restaurant Sweet Home Chicago by Mindy Kolof

Traditionalists will find more than enough to satisfy on the huge, constantly changing menu, starting with some delicate duck prosciutto or a crispy Brussel leaf salad, followed by a hearty braised pork shoulder and side of blue grits, or the creamy-spicy delight that is Mindy’s lamb sausage and creama kasa cheese flatbread sandwich. But this is one place where dessert is the first thought, not the last, mirroring the sweet priorities of its owner. When you visit Mindy Segal’s eponymous restaurant, you may be tempted to eat backwards.

hotchocolatechicago.com

“It’s a bit unusual that we designed the menu through the eyes of a pastry chef, but it all reflects the kinds of food people eat if they want to indulge in dessert,” says Segal. She knows it’s almost impossible to resist her acclaimed pastry. Favorites such as One Banana Two Banana and Cake-n-Shake have hit guests’ sweet spots for years, and a tantalizing new seasonal goodie is constantly emerging from the oven (think buttermilk-glazed brioche donuts and toasty apple chesse tarts). Few escape without at least tasting a few sips of her steaming signature drink topped with house-made marshmallows and brimming with Belgian or French chocolate, or even hot fudge in the beyondindulgent Black & Tan version. Her passion for cookies, “they’re whole desserts” led to her latest role as author – her first book Cookie Love, will make its way onto Amazon this April.

the thorough training received at Kendall College, or the continuous honing of her craft at some of Chicago’s highest-profile kitchens (Spago, Gordon, Charlie Trotter’s), or influential mentors like Ambria’s Judy Contino and MK’s Michael Kornick. She’s not reluctant to admit how hard she worked to open her restaurant in 2005, cultivating relationships with local farmers and craft breweries well before locavore and gastro pubs came to dominate Chicago; or her delight at earning the prestigious 2012 James Beard Foundation award for Outstanding Pastry Chef after being nominated each of the previous five years. Even now, after hiring a pastry chef and kitchen chef, she still never misses a day of work at the restaurant. “I have an enormous amount of pride in my craft, and I don’t compromise,” she says. “But I also know I’ve been very fortunate.” Although she recently backed out of a well-publicized plan for a new bakery in Logan Square, she’s confident her decision was the right one.

“It’s a bit unusual that we designed the menu through the eyes of a pastry chef, but it all reflects the kinds of food people eat if they want to indulge in dessert.”

She may be a triple threat who excels at everything she puts her skilled hands to, but Mindy humbly attributes at least some of her success to just plain luck. That’s not to minimize

“I don’t feel like I threw my dream away, but having just gotten married and inked a book deal, I realized that opening a new location wasn’t going to be the best idea.” But the woman dubbed a ‘pastry demigoddess’ by Chicago magazine is always spinning multiple plates, so instead she added a bakery to her Wicker Park restaurant, is working to commercialize her premium hot chocolates, and plans to write another cookbook or two.

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Mia Figlia Restaurant 1.

My Daughters, My Dream by Mindy Kolof

It’s the restaurateur’s classic conundrum. John Boudouvas grew up in the restaurant business, watching his father work long, tiring hours at his Chicago diner, miss countless family activities, and never really experience the concept of leisure time. So when Boudouvas was a high school senior and told his dad he wanted to work in the restaurant when he graduated, what he received was a paternal blast of cold reality. “He said to me, ‘How many times have I been able to go to your baseball games? You know your entire life will revolve around the restaurant. Do you really want to do this?’” Clearly, the answer was yes. As every chef and restaurant owner can understand, there was no denying the power of Boudouvas’ dream, which only became more passionate with time (and earned his father’s wholehearted support). After his formal education at the Culinary School of Kendall College, he sharpened his skills with every stint of work – prepping Italian food in Melbourne, playing with Mediterranean and Caribbean flavors at a beachfront resort in the Virgin Islands, trying his hand at French Moroccan fare. But he was always drawn back to Chicago’s thriving dining scene, especially the clusters of first-class Italian restaurants throughout the city. After almost two decades of working in Chicago’s best Italian kitchens (Avanzare, the Francesca group), he was ready to fly solo, and in 2009, opened the cozy neighborhood trattoria Mia Figlia. Meaning "my daughter" in Italian, the name is a loving ode to his two girls, Ellena and Angelina, and reflects his genuinely family-oriented approach to the business. Not only does he make time for his own children, he welcomes everyone else’s with open arms. Monday nights, kids eat free, and every night, are free to draw on the butcherpaper covered tables, and enjoy hearty helpings of traditional favorites like chicken parmesan and meat lasagna. But the chef-driven menu is anything but child’s play, featuring a slew of sophisticated

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dishes and creative specials that give Boudouvas the culinary freedom he’s always craved. Guests are as likely to enjoy a perfectly braised veal shank or handmade eight finger pasta with sausage, wild mushrooms, tomato herb sauce, shaved Pecorino Tartufati, and truffle oil as they are a ricotta-cheese filled ravioli. Seasonal ingredients rule the specials, and lots of innovation around fresh fish and hand-cut whole wheat pastas stoke Boudouvas’ culinary fires. His only frustration with Chicago’s renowned dining landscape? Location, location, location. “When you see lists of the city’s hottest restaurants, they’re always downtown, as if no one can make pasta north of North Avenue,” he says ruefully. “This area’s great for dining, lots of local products in abundance, but getting people here is the issue. It’s a strolling-throughthe-neighborhood type of place.” Still, even with no advertising, traffic is steady in the 70-seat restaurant, and he has toyed with the notion of opening a second one, if the right investors come along. And then there’s the work-life balance that so eluded his dad. With the restaurant located just a mile from home, his daughters will often arrive right after school lets out, and after the last brunch plate is served on Sunday, Boudouvas is able to head home for family time. Although he’s at the restaurant every day of the week, and is always available to jump in for an absent cook or roll up his sleeves if the dishwasher doesn’t show up, it’s a good life. So good in fact, that his 14-year-old daughter, who’s taken a real shine to rolling pasta and baking pastries, is considering going into the business when she grows up. He’s asked her to consider being a food journalist or a stylist instead, but Boudouvas is not going to stifle her dream. “I told her, just like my dad told me, to look at what it takes to succeed and go into it with open eyes, heart and mind. And then of course, I’ll be fully supportive of whatever she chooses.”

www.miafigliarestaurant.com

2. 1. Linguini alla Pescatore con Finocchio 2. Chef/Owner John Bodouvas of Mia Figlia 3. An assortment of desserts at Toni Patisserie & Cafe 4. Baguette Sandwiches

hn oni es

Toni Patisserie & Café Taste of Paris in the Heartland by Mary Daggett

Pastry Chef Toni Marie Cox honed her craft and developed her passion for pastry under two French chefs at the Mayfair Regent Hotel. “I had worked in the restaurant industry while in college, and I really loved it. I have a degree in art, which I think has helped me to create beautiful pastries.” Chef Cox also studied with former White House Pastry Chef Albert Kumin.

“When customers are happy, they tell their friends. Word-of-mouth has brought us a lot of business." www.tonipatisserie.com

“When Disney opened the Disneyland Hotel in Paris in 1992, they asked me to take the pastry chef position,” Chef Cox said. She spent two years immersed in the wonderful world of French pastry right at its source. After returning to the United States in 1994, she founded Toni Patisserie and Café in Hinsdale, a suburb west of Chicago, near the Oakbrook Mall. The Café serves breakfast and lunch, and the bakery offers a gorgeous array of Europeaninspired scratch pastries and confections. Cox had for years been contemplating opening a second location in a larger market. In 2011, she felt that she and her staff had enough experience under their belts to open a Café in Chicago. She secured a space in a well-trafficked area, at the corner of Michigan Avenue and Wabash, near Millennium Park. “This café has 50 seats, whereas the Hinsdale store has just 20. We also have sidewalk seating during the warm months.

"We serve breakfast, lunch and light dinner here, and the menu includes hot sandwiches, soups, salads and other savories such as patés, tarts and quiches. To maintain consistency, we prepare our pastries and all bakery items in Hinsdale and send a truck each morning to the Loop location. All savory items for the Chicago Café are prepared in that kitchen. When there is a concert in the park, we sell picnic boxes with baguette sandwiches, a side and dessert for take-out.” Custom cakes are a Cox specialty, especially in Hinsdale. “Last summer, I made a wedding cake for a long-time customer. We designed it together and it was spectacular. We used crystal ball separators between the five tiers. In the last several years, cupcakes were all the rage for weddings and other special events. I see this trend fading, and it’s being replaced by the sweets table – which presents an array of miniature pastries, petit fours, artfully decorated shortbread cookies and macaroons." Cox attributes much of her success to doing everything she can to satisfy her customers. “When customers are happy, they tell their friends. Word-of-mouth has brought us a lot of business. We also make sure that we capitalize on providing what customers want throughout the year. During the holiday season, for example, we know that we must have lots of stolen, pies, cakes, linzer cookies, French macaroons and, of course, Buche de Noel. I use Albert Kumin’s recipe, and people come back year after year for this holiday specialty.”

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The World-Famous Cubby Bear 1.

The House that Baseball and Music Built by Mary Daggett

USA Today recently named The Cubby Bear one of the “Nation’s Ten Best Sports Bars.” Indeed, when the Cubs are playing at Wrigley Field, this is THE place to whet your whistle and grab a bite to eat. George Loukas bought the cavernous building in Wrigleyville in 1978, and the existing Cubby Bear Lounge became just The Cubby Bear. Loukas was prescient enough to realize that he needed more than just the beloved Chicago Cubs to keep the lights on year-round. “When we first bought the building, we would let local bands use our upstairs space to practice. The sound would filter downstairs, and we realized that some of these punk bands were really talented. Naked Raygun was one of those bands, and eventually they started playing here on a regular basis, receiving a lot of critical acclaim. David Grohl, founder of the Foo Fighters, was inspired to become a musician after seeing Naked Raygun here in 1983.” (See sidebar.) Johnny Cash, the Charlie Daniels Band, Chuck Berry, Run DMC and many other musical giants performed here. By 1990, Pollstar magazine had named The Cubby Bear its nationwide “Music Venue of the Year.” A native of Corinth, Greece, George Loukas credits his success to a great deal of perseverance and to support from his family, including brothers Angelo and Tony. Wife Patty and children Stacey and Nick are integral to the operation. (His two other children are Christina, a two-time Olympic diver, and Constantine, who is a real estate professional in NYC.) “We have altered our operations, changed along with the community around us, and discovered creative new ways to draw customers. You must adapt to the times, or you will die. One of the best decisions we’ve made recently is our Sunday Night

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Salsa program. People come from all over the area to learn salsa steps, to show off their salsa moves and to vie for the $5,000 prize in our salsa dance competitions.” Naturally, watching baseball, listening to music and dancing can all work up an appetite. While Loukas names Budweiser as his No.1 selling menu item, Sales Manager Becky Mormann says it’s actually the Italian Beef Sandwich with sweet peppers and Mozzarella. “Our Garlic Fries are world-famous. They’re freshly cut, tossed with garlic, Italian parsley and roasted-garlic olive oil, topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Our customers aren’t looking for a fine dining experience, but they do expect good food, and we deliver. Our half-pound Angus burgers can be customized with Cheddar, American or Swiss cheese and grilled onions, mushrooms, bacon and avocado.”

www.cubbybear.com

The Cubby Bear, with 30,000 square feet of space, can accommodate lots of special-event business. “We have three separate party rooms for events such as corporate holiday parties, product launches and even weddings,” Mormann said. “Our rooftop operations get a lot of play, especially during Cubs games, because you can actually watch the game from above.”

Foo Fighters Perform HBO Special at The Cubby Bear David Grohl, formerly of Nirvana and founder of the multiGrammy-winning Foo Fighters, was an impressionable 14-year-old when he saw Naked Raygun perform at The Cubby Bear. He was so inspired that he decided to become a musician himself. He returned to Chicago in 2014 to kick off his eight-part HBO special, Sonic Highways, commemorating his new album of the same name and the band’s 20th anniversary. Fans were treated to the “concert of a lifetime” at The Cubby Bear on October 17, 2014, which was live-streamed on HBO.

Heaven on Seven 3.

Mardi Gras 365 Days a Year by Audarshia Townsend

During his first trip to Louisiana, Jimmy Bannos Sr. instantly fell in love with New Orleans. And who could blame him? The sounds, the scents, the people and the places were quite enchanting. It was an instant love affair of the heart – and stomach – as he tasted his way through the Bayou. It was a feeling he couldn’t shake once he returned home to Chicago, so he transformed New Garland Coffee Shop, his existing restaurant, into everything he loved about New Orleans: authentic Cajun/ Creole cuisine, lively jazz and zydeco and an atmosphere that’s Mardi Gras 365 days a year. That was 35 years ago, and Bannos has never looked back once he renamed it the now iconic Heaven on Seven. But what makes his story particularly interesting is that back then the downtown restaurant was a Jewish deli – and owned by the second-generation Greek American. He wanted to shake things up a bit, which is why every now and then he’d add a bit of the Bayou as specials on the menu.

www.heavenonseven.com

“The deli specialties gradually shrunk and the New Orleans food was growing on the menu,” recalls Bannos. “People were especially looking for the New Orleans menu during Mardi Gras season, so we never looked back.” The original Heaven on Seven continues to thrive as a breakfast/lunch spot in Chicago’s Loop business district. It’s located – of course – on the seventh floor, and surrounded by offices filled with doctors, dentists and accountants. Bannos believes that Heaven on Seven’s longevity is due to its authenticity.

different things.” His son, Jimmy Bannos Jr., has followed in his footsteps by first working in the kitchens of the original location as well as outposts in Chicago’s Gold Coast and the suburb of Naperville. Bannos Sr. also owns the porkobsessed Purple Pig with his son, where the junior chef has won many accolades and praises for his innovative menus. While Bannos is especially proud of his son, he’s made it his mission to take others like him under his wing to teach them the tricks of the trade. “A lot of these culinary schools are missing the focus,” he stresses. “They need to have a class where students can learn how to talk to an accountant, banker and/or attorney. They don’t have a clue halfway out of school, but they all want to open restaurants. What’s Plan B? What are you going to do if you don’t end up on television?” He adds that he answers questions from everyone – whether they’re students, new restaurateurs or veterans – because it helps all involved in the business in the long run. “I want everyone to survive in this business because when they don’t, it makes it harder for everyone – even if they are my competitors. If they don’t pay their bills, then all the produce goes up. That’s why I have an open house policy for anyone who needs advice.”

“A lot of people think that all New Orleans food is fried, but there are so many different things to consider, such as well-seasoned seafood and oysters and rabbit."

“We are true to what New Orleans is all about,” he says about the cuisine as well as the restaurant’s setting. “Some people think that to make [the food] Cajun, or blackened, is enough. I follow the rule that the food needs the passion and soul of the region, and that’s why [the competition] doesn’t last – because they don’t get it.

“A lot of people think that all New Orleans food is fried, but there are so many different things to consider, such as well-seasoned seafood and oysters and rabbit. I keep getting revitalized every time I go down there and find

But in the end, it all goes back to his first passion project, the original Heaven on Seven. He’s always looking for ways to spice up the menu by returning to the city that inspired it. “My last trip to New Orleans, I saw dishes that I could make better because I looked at them from a different level. At 56, I am still excited about getting into the kitchen.”

1. BBQ Burger 2. The Grammy-winning Foo Fighters perform live at The Cubby Bear for 2014 HBO special. 3. Grilled Shrimp and Corn Salad 4. Orzolaya

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The Dining Room at Kendall College Class Act

by Mindy Kolof

The food’s so good and the service so professional people tend to forget that the Dining Room at Kendall College is actually a school. That is, until they look at the bill and realize that their elaborately prepared three-course dinner, which on any night last fall included a duck confit starter, grilled lamb rack entrée and a classic strawberry and tomato hot soufflé for dessert, cost just $29. Small wonder it’s known as Chicago’s best kept foodie secret, although the 2013 Michelin recommendation and exemplary Zagat ratings may put that designation to rest. As the final block in Kendall’s culinary curriculum, the Dining Room gives students a real world taste of the fine dining life. The five-week stint rotates students quickly through kitchen stations and back-of-house techniques, and another five weeks at front-of-house, all while serving an average 50 covers nightly. The plum prize for creative types comes toward the end, when students produce their own specials, guided discreetly but firmly by chefinstructors who ensure all meals receive only top marks from patrons. “Many of the students have no restaurant experience whatsoever, so we have to work at a pace where they can take in information and yet produce professional-level meals for paying customers,” says chef Brendan McDermott, newly arrived in Chicago from another lauded culinary hot spot, New York City. “A student might be cooking a dish for the very first time and serving it that night, so earning the Michelin recommendation is particularly noteworthy.” “Phenomenal,” agrees associate professor Massimo Bosco, a 1990 graduate of Kendall, who’s currently serving as daytime executive chef

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in the Dining Room. “We are the only school in the Midwest to be recognized by Michelin.” He says the Dining Room has improved exponentially since relocating from the college’s original suburban Evanston location. “We now use vegetables grown right on our campus farm, work with farmers to get fresh, local ingredients, and we’ve opened up the kitchen so diners can get an insider’s view of our preparations.” The teachers don’t overwhelm students or diners with complicated molecular gastronomy, but keep it simple and elegant, using lots of farm-totable recipes and emphasizing classical techniques such as braising and searing. But it may be the intangible ingredient of pure passion that most elevates the Dining Room’s menu. “The students feel like it’s their last hurrah before they graduate and really put their hearts into it,” says Bosco. “They consider it the pinnacle of their culinary education.” Other instructors offer generous support and resources as well, and patrons have held special events, milestone reunions and birthday parties at the Dining Room. “There’s a lot of excitement about what we do here,” according to Bosco. “And that works both ways, as we feed well-trained, very competent students directly into Chicago’s vibrant dining scene and know they will continue to raise the level of culinary greatness here.”

We feed well-trained, very competent students directly into Chicago’s vibrant dining scene. Images provided by Kendall College

2. 1. Chef-in-training at Kendall College 2. Meal preparation 3. Spicy Black Bean Pesto Wrap 4. Chilaquiles

Kanela Greek-Inflected Made-From-Scratch Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch by Mary Daggett

Chris Lardakis has been in the restaurant business for 15 years. “I learned the ropes of the foodservice industry from each of my different bosses, and today I am an entrepreneur who realizes the importance of building relationships.” Patrons of his Kanela Breakfast Club seem to concur. Who wouldn’t want to belong to a club where one can get Bacon Infused Waffles, Bread Pudding Pancakes, Stuffed Raspberry Cheesecake French Toast, Pork Belly Benedict and Duck Confit Hash?

www.kanelabreakfastclub.com

Lardakis opened his first Kanela location just four years ago in Lakeview. Already considered by many to be the best breakfast and brunch place in the city, three more locations have quickly followed – Old Town, Wicker Park and Streeterville (near Navy Pier). With this rapid growth, how does Lardakis maintain consistency in food quality and service? “I have an outstanding executive chef, Don Penza, who has been with me for a long time. We have weekly meetings with the staff from all locations to ensure that we are all on the same page. We also make frequent visits to all locations to oversee operations.

local farms. We want everyone to leave 100 percent satisfied.” The word “Kanela” is Greek for cinnamon, one of Lardakis’ favorite flavors. While the menu is decidedly American, it is infused with Greek goodies that can’t be easily found – such as the classic Kanela roll, a sweet cinnamon pastry; Spanakopita, a Greek spinach pie; and Loukoumades, Greek donuts with lemon-honey syrup and toasted walnuts. Some of the recipes are from Lardakis’ mother. “We serve them with a smile, just like she did,” he said. The trend toward healthful dining is taken seriously at Kanela. Lardakis himself invented his own version of Chia Seed Pudding, a mixture of almond milk, Greek honey, shredded coconut, blueberries, almonds and bee pollen. It has garnered quite a following. Freshly squeezed juice and juice blends include some interesting options, such as orange/carrot/apple and banana/strawberry/orange/honey.

“I attribute my success to a great staff, great customer service, great food and a cozy, friendly atmosphere."

“I attribute my success to a great staff, great customer service, great food and a cozy, friendly atmosphere. Also, I have built neighborhood trust. I can call many of my customers by their first names. But, really, the quality of the food has to be No.1. We serve made-from-scratch meals. We hand-make all of our sausages. We make sure our menu has something for every taste, including vegetarian items and egg-white omelets. Our eggs are cage-free organic, and most of our ingredients are sourced from

Smoothies, some prepared with Greek yogurt, are another homage to wellness, with 10 different options on the menu. Weekends are meant for relaxing, and that’s what more and more Chicagoans are doing at cozy Kanela – lingering over Bloody Marys and Strawberry Mimosas while noshing on a Monkey Bread starter, laced with cinnamon and honey-butter. The biggest decision to be made is whether to order the Spicy Feta Omelet or Crab Cake Benedict.

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The Kerryman Irish Bar & Restaurant 1.

Authentic Irish Favorite in River North Neighborhood by Mary Daggett

In 2005, three lads from Ireland’s County Kerry – brothers Michael and Trevor O’Donoghue and their good friend Colm Kennedy – opened The Kerryman Irish Bar & Restaurant in a building that used to be an infamous gangster hangout. Ten years later, it’s a favorite neighborhood spot for young professionals looking for a quick, delicious lunch; for tourists wishing to find an authentic Irish experience; and for Mr. Johnny Depp. (See sidebar.) “We don’t pretend to be anything but a comfortable neighborhood place where everyone feels welcome,” said General Manager Lisa Conlon, herself native of Lurgan in County Armagh, Northern Ireland. “There are no pretentions at The Kerryman. We stick to the basics of good food and drink, great service and a warm, cozy atmosphere. We’ve seen so many trendy places come and go in the neighborhood. We keep it simple, and the majority of our customers are regulars.” Conlon has been with The Kerryman since it opened. So has the Head Chef, Damien (Damo) Moloney, who hails from Croom, a town of just 800 in County Limerick. “I agree with Lisa. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel here. We’re very successful just doing what feels natural to all of us. We don’t open until 11 a.m., so I suppose you could say that we cater to the ‘hangover crowd,’ especially on weekends. This is a great niche for us. People come in wanting a Bloody Mary or a Mimosa and an Irish breakfast, which is a real meat fest. We serve authentic Irish bacon, which comes from the back not the belly, and is cured with salt. The plate also

contains Black and White Pudding, which is actually a sausage patty, eggs, grilled tomatoes, deep-fried potato cubes and baked beans that we import from Ireland.” The best-seller at The Kerryman since Day One is Fish and Chips. “I use either pollock or haddock, which I feel have more flavor than some other varieties of white fish,” Chef Moloney said. “Many of my recipes are stolen from the cupboards of my mother and grandmother, Eileen O’Grady Moloney and Elizabeth O’Grady. My mother still thinks I’m going to move back home, but I’ve been in the United States for 18 years, and I have a wife and two daughters. We go back to visit every few years.”

The Kerryman seats 100 for indoor dining on three levels, plus 100 more at outside tables during warm months. At 10 p.m. on weekends, furniture is removed to make an upstairs dance floor, and a line begins to form outside as a DJ spins Top 40 tunes. “The dance crowd runs the gamut from mid-20s to 40-plus, and everyone has a lot of fun,” Conlon said. n

www.thekerrymanchicago.com

What About Johnny Depp? Well, several years ago, when Depp was filming “Public Enemies” in Chicago, he’d often stop at The Kerryman for a bite to eat and a beverage. “He wasn’t looking for any special treatment, and we acted like he was the same as everyone else,” Chef Moloney said. “It was a big kick for the staff. Later, we heard that when he was giving a radio interview in Ireland, he named us as one of his favorite places to go for an authentic taste of Ireland in the U.S. He also referenced The Kerryman in an interview with Vanity Fair magazine.” [Editor Note: You never know from where your word-of-mouth advertising may come.]

1. Outdoor seating area at The Kerryman 2. Fish & Chips

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Local Options:

Exploring the Farm-to-Table Path

In the never-ending search for the best ingredients, farm-to-table has moved from the fringes to a more mainstream approach to business. Restaurant Inc asked five people in the industry to weigh in on what farm-to-table means to them in theory and in practice. by Min Casey

relevancy, the chain made all kinds of promises about how it would respond to changing consumer tastes. On its list: bringing a more local focus to its operations.

The Oak Brook, Ill.-based burger behemoth released its third-quarter results in October, 2014, and news was less than upbeat for the venerable brand that mostly manages to insulate itself from negative sales growth. Vowing to reverse the slide and regain

While McD’s is not at all suggesting that it will move its business to a farm-to-table model – now or probably ever – the chain did lend credence to the idea that local connections (to communities, farms and producers) has gained sufficient traction to matter. Beginning as an off-grid grassroots effort, the farm-to-

hen McDonald's invokes “local” as a strategy it intends to pursue, the industry tends to take note, seeing it as a powerful sign that the movement is growing beyond niche status.

30 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

table movement has gained momentum and strength. As a topic and as a practice, it is tremendously complex, an ethos and mindset as well as an operational blueprint. To get a real-world sense of where the farmto-table movement stands, Restaurant Inc posed questions to those who are deeply immersed in the industry. Their views are thoughtful and insightful, good starting points for further pondering.

Charlie Baggs: Founder & Partner, Charlie Baggs Culinary Innovations Charlie Baggs has a mixed bag of restaurant industry experience that all started with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America. After gigs in fine dining, hotels and resorts, he started a culinary consulting practice dedicated to food and ingredient manufacturers, restaurant chains and institutional operators. In his words, he “creates innovative flavor solutions that wow my clients and help them succeed.”

RESTAURANT INC: What does farm to table

perspective to the discussion. Consistency

local farm-to-table concept where we will

mean to you?

and quality assurance are important to

source locally everything we possibly can. We

what they have to do. In a large business

had to interview more than 50 farmers and

or multiunit operation, if you plan to do

learn how we will get the product. It involves

something with blackberries and all of a

working with them more than a year out.

CHARLES BAGGS: I know where the food comes from, maybe a specific farm or region, specifically who grew or produced it.

sudden they are not available, this is a

RI: As you work with corporate clients, how

problem. A single-unit restaurant can work

does farm-to-table fit into the discussion?

around it more easily.

CB: Companies have to bring a larger

I’m working with a supermarket to create a

RI: Within the research chefs’ community, has there been an effort to come up with a definition for farm-to-table that is universally used and agreed upon?

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 31

CB: Chefs are very interested and spend a lot of time trying to come up with a universal definition, one we all can agree on. There also is a keen interest on having a working definition of such things as sustainable and local. We all have working definitions, what we take them to mean – but it may be different from a supplier’s viewpoint. We all have to speak the same language in this discussion. RI: Do you feel farm-to-table has staying power or will attention shift away from it? CB: I feel it definitely has staying power; it will continue to grow, especially as consumers get involved in the discussion. I, for one, am very interested in understanding the economics behind producing local and in reducing transportation cost.

RI: What are the main hurdles to bringing farm-to-table to larger concepts such as chain restaurants? CB: Distribution and quality assurance that come with the consistency that’s needed. Tomatoes don’t transport well ripe. So under-ripened fruit is picked for shipping. Premature ripening does not always produce the best tasting product to the final consumer. It’s not the easiest sourcing solution, something even independent restaurants have discovered. One very high-profile chef who takes farm-to-table seriously said to me off the record that it is a pain to purchase this way. For him it is worth it, of course, but it adds a layer of effort. The thing about chains – they try to please everyone. You can’t do that by promising

things that don’t make sense from a logistical or cost standpoint. RI: If increased cost was taken out of the equation, would farm-to-table gain more traction? CB: Yes, the notion of less processed goes along with local and farm-to-table. Both are desirable and consumers will continue to ask for those types of food. RI: Is there a discernible taste difference in farm to table or is it primarily the sustainable aspects that drive the movement? CB: Locally farmed products picked during their peak season will always taste better. We are going to see more sustainable greenhouse farms positioned strategically throughout country closer to the consumer.

Dave Baker : Owner/Partner, Miller Baker, Chicago If destiny can be found in a person’s name, Dave Baker’s career fate was set in stone long ago. In fall 2014, with wife Megan, he opened Baker Miller, a bakery café in Chicago. The miller part is relevant, too; they grind whole grains on premises and use them throughout the menu and also as the foundation of the boutique flour and grain company they have launched. This is not the first joint venture. The duo started Bang Bang Pie, a wildly popular café they sold in order to finance Baker Miller, a business closer to their hearts. Baker Miller’s menu is succinct, based on baked goods and grainy dishes such as oatmeal and grits at breakfast, a plowman’s meal at lunch and soups and bread at dinner. Tightly stitched into their business model is relentless dedication to flavor first. According to Dave Baker, that means sourcing the best ingredients, a search that always leads to a farm.

RI: What does farm-to-table mean to you? DB: I try not to use the term. To me, it’s just about making great food. In this case, at Baker Miller, it happens to be a pretty direct line from the farm but the terminology is overused. If you start with great product and put skill on top of that, nine times out of 10 it is going to work out no matter what you call it. RI: Do you work directly with farmers to source product?

32 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

DB: We definitely do. We know our producers and work closely with them. It’s a good exchange and an important part, a good part, of what we do. RI: How did farm-to-table come to be the architecture of what you’re doing at Baker Miller? DB: Every ingredient counts and at Baker Miller, we can really push that idea. At Bang Bang, people had a vision of what it should be. Megan and I wanted to do it differently,

go deeper and that’s why we sold Bang Bang and opened Baker Miller. RI: What is the role of chefs in advancing an ingredient-focused farm-to-table approach? DB: It’s the constant quest for better end products, something chefs do all the time. At Bang Bang, that search led us to the farmers' market. We had the vision that the best fruit for pies would come from there – really good, locally grown fruit that was almost beyond ripe. That then caused us to think about the

flour we used. It was a huge bin, probably the ingredient we used most, and I knew almost nothing about it. That started a whole other process – learning about wheat and which kind would make the best crust. It’s that constant questioning about every step, every process as you prepare food – how does it get better? Right now, we’re looking at butter. A logical step would be to culture it in-house. Megan and I both have learned how to make butter. We’re looking into the regulatory process to see how we can do it here. RI: At this juncture, do you feel you are as committed to local and farm-to-table as you can be? DB: We feel really good about where we are and what we do in order to have great products. Most everything is local and from producers we know. I’ve come to learn and accept that not everything that I use will be

grown locally. Our soft wheat, which we use for pastry flour, is grown in Illinois. But it happens that hard red wheat, which we need for bread flour and all-purpose flour, doesn’t grow well here so we get it from a farm coop based in Montana. All of our grains are organic and that’s important to us. We name every farm the wheat is from. It’s traceable and it highlights the importance of farmers in the process. RI: Do your guests care about the sustainable aspects of what you do or are they more focused on the end result – that things simply taste great? DB: There’s some of both. Good food will always be a big driver but there are people who have a better vision for what food can be, how it can be better in a more comprehensive way. Here’s an example. For our coffee service, we had soy milk on the

bar. One of our customers asked us why we used it. It was one of the few products at Baker Miller that was processed. So I thought about the challenge and worked on creating oat milk. We’ve rolled it out and now offer it as a non-dairy alternate. It’s a great product and it has been accepted here. Those kinds of things can be done. RI: What is your response to those who say it is too costly to be farm-to-table? DB: Part of our vision when we opened Baker Miller was to start the flour company. We see it as scalable and want to show people that you can price a really good product appropriately. We live in a food bubble and there is a strong sense that good food is for the elite. I don’t entirely know how to break that gap but it is a priority for us to get our grains into a variety of markets, not just in high-end areas.

Ken Toong: Executive Director Auxiliary Services, University of Massachusetts Amherst Make no mistake: College dining has changed in a great big way. No longer the central depository for bad food masked with gravy and a side of carbs, the fare is trend-forward and very much on the vanguard. Spurred by the demands of its youthful customer base, college and university foodservice is a bellwether, about what the emerging generation of restaurant diners will demand. UMass Amherst is a powerhouse, servings upwards of 5 million meals a year to 18,000+ students on the meal plan; it has 30 foodservice sites on campus.

RI: Does the current generation of students have more knowledge of food/farming practices, and do they broach the topic with your foodservice team? KT: I call them the millennial diners. They are passionate about health and wellness, sustainability and flavorful food. They want food that not only tastes good, but is good for them while supporting the environment. They want to know where their food comes from, and they are interested in social justice in terms of fair wages, fair trade and animal welfare. They want to work with us to make the world a better place.

RI: How has the idea of “farm fresh” foods altered or affected the foodservice program at UMass? KT: We are completely embracing it. The success of UMass dining has a lot to do with sustainability efforts. We call it having a triple bottom line approach – people, planet and profit. This is our focus and part of our mission statement. As the largest campus dining operation in the nation based on revenues, we have the responsibility to do the right thing, such as supporting local farmers. We are in the business of serving healthy, sustainable and delicious food.

Presently, over 30 percent of our produce comes from local farmers. We have five organic permaculture gardens on campus, and we only serve sustainable seafood. Last year, we were the largest school that signed onto the “Real Food Commitment.” Our mission of supporting the New England Food Vision calls for our region to reach a bold goal of “50 by 60,” building the capacity to produce at least 50 percent of clean, fair, just and accessible food for all New Englanders by 2060. As for our program, we promote plant-based protein, and include many world cuisines,

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 33

such as Asian and Mediterranean, that use less meat and more vegetables; we serve less red meat on the menu and have reduced the meat protein size to 3 ounces for lunch and 4 ounces for dinner). We have also doubled the consumption of fruit and vegetables for the past five years from $1.5 million dollars per year to 3 million. During the Spring 2014 survey, our students advocated serving even more fruit and vegetables, and we have also noticed that buying directly from farmers does not increase the costs since the middle is eliminated. RI: Do students have a sense of what farm to table means, and does their awareness compel them to ask for it in the university setting? KT: They are knowledgeable about this and

traceability is important to them. They want fresh and less-processed food. To many of our customers, food is not only fresher but tastes better when it comes from local farmers. When I talk to parents and students during orientation about our sustainable practices, they endorse it wholeheartedly.

KT: We will continue to expand our program, initiate more contract farming, freeze more fresh vegetables for later use and purchase more value-added products, such as honey and maple syrup. Now we are pilot testing local meats such as chicken, pork and beef. Only the sky is the limit.

RI: Take the cost aspect out of the equation; would it then be possible for such a large operation to go totally farm to table?

RI: You are very active in the college dining segment; have you discussed farm-to-table with others in the college/university sector?

KT: Yes, the cost can be very competitive. In terms of a large operation, we have been doing farm-to-table partnerships for the last eight years. We work with a local farmer who acts a "broker" working with another 15 farmers to help supply our needs.

KT: Yes, many schools are doing something similar but on a smaller scale perhaps, especially the self-operating schools. We exchange ideas at NACUFS (National Association of College & University Food Services) and in the annual Chef Culinary Conference held at UMass.

RI: How do you expect the call for fresh and local to continue to evolve at UMass?

Tracey Vowell: Founder/Partner, Three Sisters Gardens, Kankakee, IL A discussion of farm-to-table cannot be complete without input frim one of the most vital links, that of a farmer. Since 2000, Tracey Vowell, in tandem with partner Kathe Roybal, has tended the land of Three Sisters Gardens, culling from it a glorious wealth of complementary crops. Vowell describes the 30-acre operation as a market farm, meaning that all of what they grow is sold directly to end users. Most products go to chefs in the Chicago metro area. On Saturdays, they also sell at Chicago’s Green City Market, where the customer base includes both consumers and chefs. Her perspective is informed by many years as a chef; before devoting herself full time to the farm, Vowell was executive chef for Chicago’s famed Frontera Grill, where she worked for 18 years.

RI: Tell me about the Three Sisters name;

RI: There isn't a consensus on what farm-to-

can be produced here. And then it becomes

where does it come from?

table means; how do you define it?

about freshness and quality. It will be a

TV: It is from the Native American practice of

TV: For me it’s all wrapped up in

growing corn, beans and squash in the same

sustainability, how crops are selected and

mounds. It’s pretty sophisticated, a sustainable

grown. It’s about products that are eaten

system that provided long-terms soil fertility

in a more appropriate way, closer to the

and also was the foundation of a healthy diet.

source. We’ve made ourselves captive to

Corn is very nitrogen intensive but it provides

big agriculture, believing that lettuce has to

TV: Being a market farmer has to be the most

stalks for beans to climb. Beans feed nitrogen

come from a huge farm in California. For nine

expensive way of doing business. When we

to the soil, and squash shades the ground

months of the year it can be grown in the

go to Green City, 30 percent of what we have

and prevents weeds. Even agribusinesses

Midwest. There is no point in moving lettuce

in the truck is something other than food,

rotate beans and corn. For us, it signals the

or pigs or beef across the country. There’s

what we actually sell. We have to have tables

sustainable aspects of what we do.

a lot of waste in that type of process. It all

and tents, bags, boxes, tablecloths, signs

34 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

better-tasting product. RI: As a producer/farmer, what are the largest challenges in supplying restaurants with farm-fresh product?

– that sort of thing. And it means we are away from the farm. We also deliver direct to restaurant clients, which for a small business is harder than it is for a conglomerate. We’re lucky in that we pool deliveries with another nearby farmer who has a lot of the same customers. She takes one swath of the city, we take another – so it’s more efficient and cuts time off our delivery schedules. She’ll even drop our stuff off to restaurants that she doesn’t sell to. RI: In an ideal scenario, what is your relationship with chefs with whom you work? TV: When I was at Frontera, I spent a substantial part of my day talking to farmers, and that increased my awareness of what was going on. I learned about different

products and how to use them; it was important to me. That’s how I like to interact now with chefs. I want them to know me through personal contact, not just as a mass email or an order form. That way they know fundamentally what we are about, who we are. I want them to be able to ask "can you do this, can you do that?" One chef was talking about how he didn’t use the chicken breast tenders in the restaurant’s fried chicken. It is a tightly focused concept and he wasn’t sure what to do with them. I suggested he bring in some sausage and make gumbo. It fit with what the restaurant is all about and is still on the menu today. It’s only because we knew each other that that type of exchange happens. Some chefs text back and forth with me all day. That’s great. That’s exactly what I want. I don’t want them to just be a customer.

RI: Who drives the interest-consumers, farmers or chefs? TV: In the beginning it was mostly chefs but now there are a lot of small drivers that come together to move it forward. Take oats, for instance. When we first grew them, it was strictly for soil maintenance. We took the oats to market and gluten-free customers went crazy. So did a health-conscious segment who look for the heart-healthy aspects. And then people who like oats found them and loved them. And of course, chefs also noticed.

Sarah Stegner : Chef Owner/Partner, Prairie Grass Café, Northbrook, IL When Sarah Stegner and business partner George Bumbaris opened Prairie Grass Café in 2000, they were single-minded in their vision to merge the finesse of fine dining with a more relaxed, friendly vibe. They met while working together at the Ritz-Carlton Chicago, an environment that cultivated in them passion for ingredient-driven food and respect for those who produced it. From that foundation, Stegner has built a network of local sources for the restaurant and established relationships with producers, all with the goal of finding the best-tasting foods.

RI: Distilled to its simplest level, what does farm-to-table mean to you as a chef?

do you think farm-to-table means to your customers?

SS: For me, it’s really about making Prairie Grass as good as it can be. In building a restaurant from the ground up as we did, it was going to be product-driven; that was a decision we made. Every chef wants to serve the best tasting food, and that can happen with a farm-to-table model. There also is an altruistic element that weighs into the decision. It is about preserving the farmland for future generations, making sure it will still be there.

SS: There is a growing group of people who are educated about food, curious about it – where it comes from, how it was made, who made it. You see them reading labels and many of them are willing to pay more for certain products if they are high quality. The majority of people, though, and it’s true at Prairie Grass, are primarily interested in how food tastes. They trust us as chefs to provide food that is clean and tastes great. That trust needs to have a basis, and we work hard to earn and keep it.

RI: As a chef, by necessity you perhaps think about food and ingredients differently. What

RI: A different balance to the plate is

sometimes described as a natural offshoot of farm-to-table practices, one in which proteins share the space more equitably with grains and vegetables. Are your customers interested in such an approach? SS: People still like meat and seafood at the center of the plate. Servings of it are balanced with produce and fresh ingredients and that approach seems to work well. RI: What types of relationships do you have with farmers? SS: I love that part of the job, meeting the farmers and producers, learning their stories and working with them on a shared goal. The

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 35

personal contact with them is inspirational. It drives and challenges me as a chef. RI: What does the process of purchasing from small producers look like from your end? SS: I have five to six core farmers I buy from in bulk, and that usually means I have contracted with them before the season. For instance, there is one type of pumpkin that I like. No one grew it so I asked one farmer to plant it. She supplies me with 1,500 pounds and any supply beyond that she can sell to anyone else. Some of the farmers will deliver to the restaurants. Others don’t and that’s fine. I go to the Green City Market (a certified farmers' market in Chicago) each week. I buy there and also pick up other ingredients. RI: What are your biggest challenges as you aim to bring farm-to-table to Prairie Grass? SS: There is a rhythm to the seasons that has to be understood and respected. There is a wonderful sense of abundance in summer and that is really reflected in the menu. Dishes are loaded with produce, very fresh and vibrant. When

tomatoes come in you can almost feel the excitement. By January, all that has changed. Then, you will see more winter squash and cabbage, sturdier foods. They’re no less good but they are different. RI: Do you ask your more traditional suppliers to up their game? SS: This movement toward taste and better ingredients is evident all through the industry. Everyone recognizes it and will respond as they have to. It’s a business decision, and supplier companies are working to see how they fit in. RI: How do you see the movement evolving, and where will it lead? SS: At Prairie Grass, I build more local and farm-to-table purchases into the plan each year; it’s a natural evolution of where we and our customers want the restaurant to be. In the larger universe, I think chains will take notice and look for ways to respond. Chipotle has done a really nice job and shown what can be done. Others will look at that as a model. Even if a restaurant buys just one single case of apples from a local source, it’s a start; it supports local. n

Sustaining Steps For some chefs, farmers, producers and consumers, farm-to-table is only one part of a larger philosophy, an interlinking cog that ultimately must connect to sustainability. While there is no codified definition for sustainability, it involves being good, responsible caretakers of the land, its animals and the people who work it. The 1990 Farm Bill says that sustainable agriculture means an integrated system of plant and animal production practices having a site-specific application that will, over the long term: • Satisfy human food and fiber needs. • Enhance environmental quality and the natural resources base upon which the agricultural economy depends. • Make the most efficient use of nonrenewable resources and onfarm resources and integrate, where appropriate, natural biological cycles and controls. • Sustain the economic viability of farm operations. • Enhance the quality of life for farmers and society as a whole. Source: United States Congress, 1990. Food, Agriculture, Conservation, and Trade Act of 1990, Public Law 101-624. Title XVI, Subtitle A, Section 1603. Washington, DC: US Government.

Others state it more simply: It is a way of growing, raising or producing food, in an ecologically and ethically responsible manner and using practices that protect the environment, safeguard human health, are humane to farm animals and provide fair treatment to workers. http://www.prairiegrasscafe.com

36 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

HOW TO TRANSFORM INTO A FARM-TO-TABLE CONCEPT by Audarshia Townsend

he two Farmhouse restaurants in Evanston, IL, and Chicago’s River North neighborhood showcase some of the best seasonal ingredients you can find in the Midwest. It’s part of owners TJ and Molly Callahan’s mission – as you can clearly tell by the restaurants' name – but they do it in such a way that will make you wonder why you don’t eat and drink like this every day.

Their secret weapon? Farmhouse

apple, pear, peach and cherry trees,

boasts an actual farm in the hills of

as well as black and red raspberries,

Wisconsin’s Driftless Area, comprised

serviceberries and hazelnuts. Also, a

of 140 acres of rolling woods and

dozen beehives are thriving, which are

prairies. Brown Dog Farm is named

overseen by a local beekeeper.

after the Callahans’ two Chesapeake Retrievers, who gleefully use the space

Now, that’s dedication to the farm-to-

as their personal playground.

table movement! Most restaurants, however, do not have the resources to

The dogs frolic as the Callahans farm

own a farm, but that doesn’t mean they

at Brown Dog, which was purchased

cannot adopt a farm-to-table concept

in 2012. When first acquired, the farm

as part of their mission. In order to find

had a small apple orchard and a good-

out the best—and most efficient—way

sized asparagus bed. It also grew black

to transform your restaurant into

walnuts, wild grapes, wild raspberries and morel mushrooms. And since the Callahans took over, they have

a farm-to-table concept, it’s best to consult an expert.

planted an additional 140 apple, cider

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 37

BF O UO D S & I B EN V EE R AS G SE

We spoke to two Chicago leaders in the movement, two chefs who have been immersed in farm-to-table dining long before it became a trend. David DiGregorio, partner/executive chef at Osteria Via Stato, believes that establishing relationships with farmers and purveyors is essential. E PaulS Virant, S owner/executive chef And at Perennial Virant, Vie and Zistro restaurants, recommends doing as much research as possible before taking on such a task. Here’s what else they had to say in answer to our questions.

ow would a restaurateur go about legitimately transforming an establishment into a farm-to-table concept? What are some basic and necessary steps? I think it comes down to understanding what’s in season and taking advantage of what’s around you. Go to farmers’ markets, talk to farmers and understand what they grow. From there, it is a social thing, and you need to talk to people and find out who does what and where. The network of restaurant people is important, and that interaction is important. —DiGregorio Go to a farmers’ market and introduce yourself

For me, I really love what I do, so I basically

season, whether they’re from California or the

cannot help seeing what is out there. I am

Green City Market in Chicago. I think it’s more

always interested in what is around me. There

of a logistical issue than cost, how to get it.

are more local farmers' markets than ever

It’s a great concept to do rooftop gardening.

before. —DiGregorio

There is an initial investment, plus you must decide on who’s going to maintain it. Once

“I think it comes down to understanding what’s in season and taking advantage of what’s around you. Go to farmers’ markets, talk to farmers and understand what they grow." In addition to buying my book, The Preservation Kitchen (March 2012), which is sold at my restaurants, there are other great books, such as one by Eugenia Bone called Well Preserved: Recipes and Techniques for Putting Up Small Batches of Seasonal Foods (2009), which is about canning. They go over the technical process of it. There are also many helpful blogs on the internet. —Virant

ot that I'm advocating cutting corners, but sometimes the farmto-table concept can be intimidating to restaurateurs because they think it may be out of their budget. How can a smaller operation practice it effectively and efficiently?

to the people there. Tell them what you do,

you’ve got that going, it’s all paid for. For example, [Chef] Rick Bayless grows a ton of tomatoes and other vegetables on his terrace. He told me once how much he’s saved doing it this way. It’s amazing what you can produce in a small amount of space. Herbs are expensive, so if you

grow them yourself, you can save a ton of money. At Vie, we have some planters on the north side of the restaurant as well as the west side that a friend of the restaurant maintains. More bar stuff like mint and other herbs are great for the bartenders. Plus it’s fun, saves money and enhances the bar program when it’s fresh. —Virant

ow can a restaurant apply the farm-totable concept without going overboard with ingredients? I'm thinking that the dishes and cocktails should be created simply in order to respect those ingredients. Am I on the right track?

Tomatoes when they’re in season taste spectacular on their own. Sometimes simply

and ask them what they produce and how you

Look at it from a chef’s standpoint. If it’s

can get it. The nice thing is that there are now

possible, you should grow it in your own

wholesale vendors who are focusing on selling

backyard. Rooftop gardens are at a lot of

produce from certain regions. —Paul Virant

restaurants; I think that is a great way to do

We like to showcase seasonal ingredients that

it. Understand what you’re serving and what

we love, like corn and tomatoes. The restraint

you’re doing. Understand your customer base

comes when your focus is on that particular

and what they’re willing to pay to offset some

ingredient. Our menu is driven by what’s best

of the costs. —DiGregorio

in season. That’s the first and foremost of.

e feel as though people learn more about the farm-to-table concept if they immerse themselves in the world. Should those interested in the practice attend seminars, visit other restaurants, etc.?

I think the prices are comparable if you stick

dressed with basil and a few other ingredients is just enough. —DiGregorio

—Virant n

to seasonality – if you’re buying things in

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12/19/14 3:44 PM

Serve Up a Message

Farm-to-Table Collections that Say "Fresh & Local" Before the First Bit by Mindy Kolof

You have grass-fed beef and organic milk from your local farm, seasonal vegetables plucked from the garden, craftmade beer from the neighborhood brewery…now you need a new set-up that reflects your farm-to-table ethos. Evoking the rustic feel with woods, metals and ceramics, Tuxton and Oneida have embraced the concept with authentic materials and real craftsmanship to bring the farm to your table, as illustrated below. Tuxton’s Artisan Collection is the brainchild of Marketing Director Jennifer Rolander, who sketched out the concept of glazed china, slightly misshapen to appear individually hand-thrown on a potter’s wheel. She found a receptive audience in the company’s president, who worked with her to find earthy-looking glazes that react differently when fired in the kiln, creating a unique piece of functional table art. One of Tuxton’s most successful new collections, Artisan is available in three colors inspired by the company’s Southern California origins: Red Rock, Night Sky and Mojave. “It may look like pottery, but it has the durability of restaurant china,” assures Rolander, who says the pieces are being snapped up by both upscale and casual venues, and crossing from farm-to-table into BBQ, pizza, Asian, Latin and Italian inspired dishes.

Vice President of the company’s Buffet Euro division, points to an array of materials and themes that fit the locally sourced, organic food movement. Oneida’s F2T category includes targeted display items such as barrels, crates, display wheels, fences and cutting boards. Materials include cypress, cedar, olive wood, and metals both in galvanized and rustic reclaimed finishes. Staying true to the concept, the look is softer, more inviting, and “has staying power for decades.” Oneida feels this is "on trend and has staying power for decades." To complement with a modern twist, satin-finish flatware and white porcelain plates, all with classic, clean lines, complete the setting. Shown on page 68: Oneida Chef’s Table Flatware – Form follows function in this 18/0 Stainless Steel flatware. Satin finish on a smooth silhouette. Oneida Bright White 12” Square Plate – from the Bright White porcelain dinnerware collection, fit for a plethora of casual dining concepts. Includes narrow rim and rolled edge styles. n

Oneida is debuting an assortment of dinnerware, flatware and buffet pieces that evolves beyond the initial standardized farm to table assortment. Tim Ecker, Executive

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Tuxton Ellipse Plate - 10" and 12" sizes Oneida Picnic Table; Oneida Display Crates, Set of 2; Oneida Galvanized Tubs, Set of 2

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Tuxton Cup and Saucer Tuxton Tray, Tuxton Capistrano Bowl

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Se e pa ge 68 fo r MO RE gr eat ex am pl es of fa rm -t o- ta bl e it em s & Ul ti m at e Pa ir in g Re ci pe s.

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ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 39

DISTINCTIVE

SEAFOOD

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CHICAGO’S ETHNIC DINING SCENE by Audarshia Townsend

hicago has some of the most vibrant ethnic scenes in the country – with Little Italy being one that often comes to mind. Yet many of the Windy City’s ethnically-driven neighborhoods have seen major changes in the 21st century.

For example, Little Italy has significantly evolved from a thriving, Italian-American-focused dining enclave to a neighborhood embracing all types of food served up in contemporary settings. Davanti Enoteca, Tuscany, Francesca’s on Taylor and Tufano's Vernon Park Tap all continue the tradition of serving Italian fare, while Chez Joel, County BBQ and Couscous explore other cuisines. Three Aces is somewhere in the middle.

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This restaurant and cocktail lounge is situated in the heart of Little Italy on the heavily trafficked Taylor Street restaurant row. And, according to co-owner Anthony Potenzo, the bench sitting in front Three Aces is one of many tributes to his old stomping grounds – he was born here and spent many childhood days playing in the alley directly behind his restaurant. “When I was growing up almost every block had a few houses with a bench in front of them,” he fondly recalls. “They were meant for pedestrians to take a load off when they were weary. It was the community’s way of being hospitable [to visitors and neighbors].” But while the neighborhood is changing, Three Aces maintains the memories of its modest beginning. The bench in front of Three Aces carries on that Little Italy tradition, and the tributes don’t stop there. When you walk inside, you’ll notice that the owners have gathered quite a few pieces of memorabilia honoring the neighborhood’s rich Italian-American heritage.

He says that people often pull him to the side to excitedly discuss their personal attachments to the pictures. “Guys have come up to me and told me that they knew people in the photos,” Potenzo says. “One guy told me that he spotted his uncle, and another even pointed himself out in one.” Fifteen or 20 years ago, such an eclectic establishment as Three Aces might not have found a loyal following in Little Italy. Potenzo says that many of the Italian families he used to know were displaced once the University of Illinois aggressively bought up property in the area. That created University Village, which is adjacent to Little Italy and mostly inhabited by college students, academic professionals and young, upwardly mobile types. “Every [ethnic] neighborhood in Chicago has pretty much changed,” observes Potenzo. “You’ve got the old standbys that have been there forever, and then you have the newbies like us.” n

Potenzo is proudest of the Mategrano’s sign hanging in the restaurant. It once belonged to the iconic Italian restaurant where Three Aces now stands, and during his childhood, Potenzo’s godfather used to regularly take him there. He also acquired a number of vintage black-andwhite photographs from Taylor Street Archives, which documents and preserves Little Italy’s history. The photos are from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s, and he had them enlarged and incorporated into the restaurant’s wallpaper. It’s a gesture that was greatly appreciated by older residents of the neighborhood.

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Some of Chicago’s Ethnic-Focused Neighborhoods BRONZEVILLE

GREEK TOWN

The South Side, mostly AfricanAmerican neighborhood is adjacent to Hyde Park – home of President Barack Obama. It was once a thriving jazz-and-blues nightlife destination that boasted the likes of Nat King Cole, Louis Armstrong and author Richard Wright. Most notable restaurants: Chicago’s Home of Chicken & Waffles, Just Turkey, Norman’s Bistro, Pearl’s Place, Uncle Joe’s Jerk.

Similar to Little Italy, the majority of Greek families that used to live in this neighborhood have moved to the suburbs. Many of their restaurants have stayed behind, including Greek Islands, which has been widely credited for inventing “saganaki,” or “flaming cheese.” Most notable restaurants: Artopolis, Athena Greek Restaurant, Parthenon.

CHINATOWN

HUMBOLDT PARK

The area boasts more than 68,000 Chinese residents (according to the latest U.S. Census report), with some of the more notable restaurants owned by celebrity chef Tony Hu. It’s a tightly knit community, yet the neighborhood is a popular tourist attraction. Most notable restaurants: Emperor’s Choice, Lao Cze Chaun, Lao Hunan, Phoenix.

Humboldt Park is a rapidly developing and culturally diverse neighborhood attracting visitors from other neighborhoods and cities. It’s best known for its authentic Puerto Rican cafes and markets next to eclectic art galleries and shops. Most notable restaurants: Coco Restaurant, La Bruquena, Papa’s Cache Sabroso, Rootstock.

ROGERS PARK

PILSEN

Devon Avenue: The West Rogers Park dining strip is best known for its vast number of Indian and Pakistani-focused eateries. Most notable restaurants: Hema’s Kitchen, Khan BBQ, Udupi Palace, Viceroy of India.

Mexican culture still dominates this neighborhood, but as more ethnic groups move in, the area is experiencing a very diverse rebirth, with a varied selection of restaurants, galleries and even late-night venues. Most notable restaurants: EL Ideas, May St. Café, Nightwood, Nuevo Leon Restaurant.

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BO PU E S R IA TN I E O SN S

by Mindy Kolof

For a kid who grew up puttering in his mom’s kitchen and discovering a decided affinity for all things culinary, participating in a nationwide televised cooking competition at age 23 was an unforgettable milestone in his personal timeline. Being mentored by Emeril Lagasse during the show kicked the cool factor up to 11. And winning it? A true "living the dream" moment for Chicago’s Ryan Abramson, who hopes his now signature Apple Danish Stuffed 44 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

French Toast riding high on the menu at Denny’s marks just the beginning of a lifetime culinary adventure.

yan, vendor engagement professional at a local business software review company by day, accomplished amateur chef at all other times, rose to the top of the competition on TNT’s "On the Menu" show, where he went three intense, tightly timed rounds before landing the KO punch with his sweet-savory culinary creation. His winning flavor mashup – two thick slices of French toast drizzled with cinnamon sauce and stuffed with whipped cream cheese and warm apple filling, accompanied by crispy hash browns nestled under crumbled chorizo sausage and onions – now sells for a reasonable $7.99 on Denny’s menus nationwide. While his victory

was incredibly sweet, topped off by two $25,000 checks, one for Ryan, the other for Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign, it wasn’t totally unexpected. He’s arguably been preparing for this moment by playing sous chef for his mom from the time he could reach the cutting board. “My mom didn’t like taking us out for dinner when we were growing up; she always preferred to cook for us.” Watching TV or playing video games was verboten during dinner prep at the Abramson house, and Ryan’s early days of slicing veggies and chopping onions proved particularly prescient for the budding culinarian. “Eventually, I started picking it up on my own, and I always had my own kitchen throughout college so I could keep learning and experimenting,” he recalls. By senior year, his weekend breakfasts were becoming legendary eye-openers at his University of Illinois frat house. Fast forward to the post-grad years, when Ryan, still a dedicated home chef in a city full of devoted foodies, applied to a growing string of reality cooking shows. Finally, he got the nod from TNT’s new On the Menu. Its pedigree was genuine – produced by Mark Burnett (Survivor, The Voice) and hosted by Ty Pennington (Extreme Makeover Home Edition), and iconic chef Emeril Lagasse. Its concept was unique – everyday cooks vie for the chance to have their dish served at a well-known national restaurant chain, making it the first cooking show to give viewers the chance to taste the winning dish after every episode. And its values were sound. “What surprised me was the high integrity of the competition,” reveals Ryan. “The show was not meant to make drama like on traditional reality shows. Everything was real, and everyone was given an equal opportunity to win.” That was evident when contestants were ushered into the kitchen for the main challenge: a fully loaded space complete with a staff of enthused helpers. “This is not mom’s kitchen, this is Willie Wonka’s kitchen!” Ryan is heard to exclaim in

one of the show’s more amusing sound bites. Like restaurant operators everywhere, he realized: “The teamwork in the kitchen that made it all happen was amazing. But I also needed to have a real command over it, and be extremely clear in knowing how much to order, how much to make, how it was plated. There were always people waiting to be served.” Another revelation for the episode’s youngest contestant was how quickly he was able to lose himself in the cooking. “You know you’re always being watched, but you just have to think about everything you’re doing and be in the moment. I knew I didn’t have an advantage based on experience, but my ability to adapt and cook fast on the go was a huge advantage.” He learned that, he said, from his first teacher and constant cooking inspiration – his mom. “She was always able to whip up a gourmet meal in five minutes with whatever she had in the refrigerator. It was never about going out and buying ingredients, but about improvising on the go.” And Emeril? “Sure, it was intimidating at first, but he really was there to help.” Case in point: when Emeril pointed out the chorizo might be a tad too spicy for most palates, Ryan adjusted his recipe to include caramelized onions, drawing on the natural sweetness of the vegetable. Emeril approved, as did the cross section of Denny’s diners and executive team who praised his richly flavorful dish, leading to the ultimate triumph – a place on the menu at the 1700-strong chain. And while the white chocolate ganache and toasted pecan topping originally envisioned by Ryan may not have made the final cut, nothing could dim the excitement of going to Denny’s the next day and ordering his own creation. In fact, he ordered it for a couple of other tables of diners too, while snapping some selfies with the waitress. Remember the name. In the next decade, it’s a safe bet that Ryan Abramson will achieve at least one of his culinary visions – front of the house managing a restaurant, or maybe earning the TV title of "Master Chef". n

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[ADVERTORIAL]

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Picnic Shoulder

Jowl

Shank

In a

Loin Ham Belly

Boston Butt

Pig’s Eye …

and Ears, Nose, Tail and Other Not-So-Nasty Bits by Mindy Kolof

In the culinary world, the most progressive advances often have their roots in centuries-old practices, and nose to tail is the latest proof that great-great-great-great grandmother knows best. Modern passions — local, sustainable, respect for animals — have intermingled with old-world values to create a cult of the whole beast.

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ake a look at how today’s hottest culinary schools, butchers and caterers are going whole hog to bring this ancient art to the newest crop of future top chefs. The latest incarnation of nose-totail cooking was jumpstarted with the 1999 publication of Nose to Tail Eating, by unassuming, deeply talented British chef, who Fergus Henderson, who had already dazzled culinarians worldwide at his St. John restaurant. Delicacies like rolled pig’s spleen, duck’s neck terrine and roast woodcock were regular fare from this chef who masterfully used every part of the livestock and plants at his disposal. Even Anthony Bourdain was moved to describe his cooking as “so goddamn amazing that it borders on religious epiphany.”

But as Henderson, and others who followed in his sustainable footprints pointed out, the technique was far from original. Nose to tail has been practiced by forebears in every part of the world, across several centuries, in a nod to necessity and frugality. Americans were eating offal well into the early 1900s, only to rediscover it with a passion in the next millennium as the perfect storm of sustainability, waste reduction and humane treatment of animals transformed the dining culture. At Kendall College, it’s been a slow evolution, says Chris Koetke, Vice President, School of Culinary Arts, with the introduction of whole hog fabrication some 14 years ago. Koetke, himself a chef before coming to Kendall in 1999, turned to the technique’s deep roots after experiencing a complete

metamorphosis in his core values. “I became obsessed,” he remembers, “with the question of what my ancestors ate, what it means to be an American, how farmers worked to bring these meats to us. And every question took me back to the whole animal concept as the answer. It may seem new and different, but in reality, it’s taking us back to where we used to be.” These days, he’s taking the aspiring young chefs in Kendall’s charcuterie class with him on his culinary history tour to break down the pig, learning how to turn every part into pure primal pleasure. They go well beyond ham and sausage, to frying up crispy ears and tails, slowly braising hocks and bellies, simmering tongue into an indescribably different taco filling.

Butcher Block to Table:

The Humanity of the New Age Butcher

“Nose to tail is a buzz term, but it’s become a bit misleading,” asserts Rob Levitt, co-owner of Butcher & Larder, Chicago’s first sustainable, whole-animal butcher shop. “It can mean a restaurant is serving up a lot of offal, which is great, but doesn’t necessarily mean the whole animal is being used.” His preference is the term "whole farmer." Levitt explains: “Is it more important to buy a whole animal or do what’s best for the farmers selling these animals? Sometimes that means buying the whole animal; at other times, learning how to work with cuts that are not familiar.” In his previous life as chef at the late, great Mado Restaurant, Levitt’s pork rillettes, pork shanks and warm salads with slow-cooked pig’s head were legendary. He made a habit of contacting local farmers and asking what cuts they were having the most trouble selling. “We wound up with a lot of beef hearts, neck bones, tongue and chuck tenders. But the morality of this goes

a long way. By using these lesser cuts, you not only save money, but show respect to the farmers and hands who raised it, and to the animal itself. If it is raised to be butchered, then leave nothing behind…cure, age, use bones for stock. Ask the farmers how to cook it; they know all about these things.” At Butcher & Larder, Levitt’s practice is to fill the cases with familiar and soon-to-be-familiar cuts like clod heart steaks, or bavettes. “Thirty years ago no one knew what a hanger steak was,” he points out, “and beef short ribs and pork bellies were used for staff meals. Now they’re the most in-vogue dishes on the menu.” Does the nose-to-tail phenom have staying power? “I sure hope so!” Levitt swiftly replies. “If operators have the space and the skills, using the whole animal is a smarter choice. You can make quite a bit of money from it, and give diners a great evening out.”

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Even the gelatin in the cheeks is satiny, rich and unbelievably satisfying. The side benefit for students and chefs: “It’s fun!” asserts Koetke. What they all discover is the secret of this trend’s staying power – the lesser cuts are some of the best cuts on the animal. “We’ll be using this for years to come,” he predicts. “Nose-to-tail cooking gives a chef so many creative options, we’re just beginning to see the potential.” Not just nose-to-tail, but stem-toroot cooking reigns at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE), according to the school’s high-profile Director of Culinary Development, James Briscione, who soared into the elite realm of star chefs as the first ever two-time winner of Food Network’s Chopped. “We are paying a lot of attention to the way every piece can be used. It’s easy to fall into a trap of only teaching certain cuts and techniques that only use a small part of the products,” he says. Not so at ICE, where Briscione and master butcher Rudi Weid highlight both the creativity and bottom line effectiveness of whole animal utilization. For example, lamb pieces are skillfully butchered during fabrication classes and the fat is saved for charcuterie lessons. “It all goes back to the farm-to-table movement,” says Briscione, “which has, at its heart, the idea of chefs and diners becoming more aware of how products are made, and how we use them.” Restaurant operators can use the technique to create a new and

exciting experience for the guest, offering three or four different parts of the pig on the same plate. “It’s not hard to teach this technique to staff, and it’s approachable, worthwhile, and a great project to work on as a team,” says Briscione.

of the pig left, and need to put a plan in place for using every part.” The key, according to Monaco, is menu flexibility, with daily or nightly changes to be expected as “you will probably run out of pork loin or pork chops early on. Cuts from the shoulder and leg are delicious, but require long, slow cooking methods or time-consuming transformations into terrines and charcuterie.” All agree it requires considerably more skill to figure out how to use these lesser parts, and student chefs need to be armed with techniques, skills and a background in food history and animal anatomy. “We teach students how the more a muscle was used when the animal was alive, the tougher it will be, and the more the cooking techniques will need to be adjusted,” says Monaco.

“The most desirable parts of the animal traditionally have been the simplest things to cook. What’s left behind takes a little more work, as they can be tougher and need braising, or require the knowledge to cook delicate pieces like tongue and heart,” says Cara Tannenbaum, assistant dean of students at ICE. Agrees the school’s culinary relations manager Virginia Monaco: “Chefs need to break out of the mindset of getting in a pork loin and making the same dish over and over again. It’s the responsibility of the chef to find real use for the whole animal – once you take off the belly, you still have two-thirds

Briscione’s class takes chefs-intraining through the primal cuts, and in four hours transforms every piece of the pig into a dish: whipping up schnitzel from the loin, slow roasting the shoulder to make barbecue sandwich, braising the shanks and cheeks, crisping the skin from the belly and grinding up fresh sausage from the legs. Also on the menu: cauliflower and squash purees that leave no stem, root or stalk behind (see page 53). He has nothing but respect for the animal he so skillfully dismantles, even taking his students on field trips to a sustainable hog farm in Iowa where large fields of pigs “play in a happy mixture of sun and mud” in stark contrast

“It’s the responsibility of the chef to find real use for the whole animal — once you take off the belly, you still have two-thirds of the pig left …” — Virginia Monaco, Culinary Relations Manager, Institute of Culinary Education 50 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

to the grim conditions found in nearby concentrated animal feeding operations. “We hope to inspire both future professional chefs and ambitious amateurs to make responsible choices about the provenance and quality of the ingredients they choose,” he says. “We have lost that knowledge of the animal in the past, but Americans are a lot more savvy about the food they eat now,” says Monaco, which is why she is downright bullish on the noseto-tail trend. “There has never been a better time to share these traditional skills with our students, whether they go on to incorporate this knowledge into their future food businesses, or even opt to work full-time in the field of fabrication.” At the renowned Culinary Institute of America, the education starts freshman year, with meat fabrication and utilization classes, according to Bruce Mattel, associate dean, food production. “We spend time learning the anatomy of bovine, porcine and game animals and how to break them down and handle each cut. Looking ahead, this will prove invaluable to students as future restaurateurs looking to optimize profits when purchasing from local providers,” he explains. As the program progresses, other applications are spotlighted, from charcuterie programs (artisan and industry cuts, notes Mattel) to cold kitchen lessons using lesser cuts of meat for patines and sausages. The economies are pointed out— “typically you’re paying less per pound when you pay a hanging weight for a carcass versus buying specific cuts”—and the creativity involved in taking the trim and turning it into premium menu items is underscored as well. Local product is brought in whenever possible, to “educate not advocate.” “The beautiful part of this whole movement is showcasing the inherent attributes and points of distinction of everything we eat,” says Mattel. n

Catering to the Beast-Loving Masses “As a chef, you’re really removed from the whole process of where the animal comes from, how it grows up. You don’t really comprehend how many lambs it takes

to make a rack of 16 lamb chops. And you may not know how truly exquisite the lamb neck tastes,” enthuses Chef John Fink, founder of the Bay Area’s Whole Beast catering company. “Or consider what a great cut the pig’s head is, inexpensive, with so many different types of meat. You can brine it, roast it, smoke it, use the cheeks, jowls, tongue, ears, and best of all, the cartilage that cooks into a tender, melt-in-your mouth texture.” That’s why he makes a point of taking his cooks to meet the local farmers he patronizes, and is always game to pass on his self-taught butchering skills to the newest generation of culinarians from the nearby San Francisco Cooking School and Culinary Institute of America’s Napa Valley campus. “When you realize just how much work and time goes into growing the animal, you’re much more conscious of how costly it is, in terms of price and labor, to make a mistake while preparing meat,” he says. “You can’t learn this all in cooking school; it’s something you really learn on the job.” John’s Whole Beast catering journey started eight years ago, when his son was born. “I wanted more freedom than the restaurant life would provide, and was able to finally have the time to explore the whole farm-to-table concept.” Taking his infant son with him, he began visiting local farms, literally walking in the farmers' footsteps to understand their operations, and eventually branched out with road trips all over the country. Another ah-ha moment occurred during his Cuban brother-in-law’s annual pig roast, “a real show, where people would gather around his special grill and be completely captivated by the experience.” Likewise hooked, he combined his lifelong skills – as chef, commercial fisherman, engineering student and avid camper – to “nail how to best cook a whole animal.” He discovered a real knack for the process, building an outdoor kitchen, and began to bring the party everywhere, from elaborate wineries and 50,000-strong concerts to sunset beach parties and intimate backyard celebrations. Among his favorite venues – a Hawaiian luau wedding for 300 people, featuring braised pig, boar and goat; and a bluegrass festival in Golden Gate Park, using every ounce of 720 pounds of lamb. “Every event is different, but every one helps raise awareness of the concept,” says Fink, “and shows that to move forward, sometimes we have to look backwards.”

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High on the Hog

with James Briscione

Give this "Chopped" champ a welltended pig, freshly sharpened knives and a fully-loaded kitchen, and you’ll receive plates of porcine perfection that include: • Grilled Tenderloin

• Italian Sausage

• Roast Pork Shoulder

• Schnitzel

• Fresh Chorizo

• Pork Belly

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Roast Pork Shoulder Yield: Serves 4 (for a few days) “A great slow-cooked pork roast begins with a great piece of meat--a bone-in pork shoulder or pork butt. One trick is to get a good spice rub on the roast at least a day ahead – two if you can. I’ve got my own secret blend that I like to use; cumin, coriander, fennel seed, white pepper, black pepper, garlic and chili powder.” Trim one bone-in pork shoulder. With a sharp knife trim away the exterior fat. Reserve the trimmed fat. When the shoulder is cleaned-up, cut the top in a crosshatch pattern. Rub the shoulder on all sides with the spice mixture of your choice or just salt and pepper. Put back in the refrigerator until you’re ready to cook it. If possible, pull the shoulder out of the fridge an hour before it goes in the oven. Pre-heat the oven to 225˚F. Plan on a cooking time of at least 8 hours. Just before you put the roast in the oven, put all the trimmed-off fat

on top of the roast. As it cooks, the fat will render and naturally baste the roast, keeping it moist and tender. The typical bone-in roast is 14 pounds and cooks for about 9 hours. A boneless shoulder will cook for significantly less time. Be sure to check it periodically and baste it a few times by scooping up all the rendered fat and juices and drizzling them over the roast. As far as determining doneness – I pinch the side and try to pull a little away. You’ll know it’s ready when you easily pinch a piece of meat off the shoulder. n

Cauliflower “Nose to Tail” Yield: Serves 6 12 oz cauliflower florets (walnut-size)*

1 oz garlic, thinly sliced

16 oz cauliflower, stem, florets and pieces*

1 oz butter

clarified butter as needed 8 oz onion, minced

10 fl oz water 2 fl oz heavy cream 2 fl oz brown butter

*weights approximate from 1 head of cauliflower Cut florets from the head of cauliflower. Reserve the core, stems and smaller florets. Toss the largest pieces with clarified butter and place on an aluminum foil lined sheet pan and brush with clarified butter on each of the flat sides. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in a 450˚F convection oven until tender and browned on the edges. Roughly chop the remaining cauliflower. Melt the butter in a small saucepot and sweat the onions and garlic. Recipes courtesy of the Institute of Culinary Education

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When tender, add the chopped cauliflower, season with salt and sauté 2 minutes more. Add the water and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Simmer until very soft; discard the bay leaf. Combine the cauliflower, its cooking liquid, heavy cream and brown butter in a blender and process until smooth. Transfer to a small pot and simmer to thicken if necessary or hold warm. ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 53

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FF OO OO DD && BB EE VV EE RR AA GG EE Kalette Salad An upgraded classic, this salad features visually appealing MFC Kalettes, salty pancetta, and sweet caramelized onions.

2015 Healthy

Resolutions by MARKON ®

Every New Year’s Eve since one can remember, millions of people make promises to themselves: to exercise more, to quit smoking, and to eat healthier foods. Each year the resolutions are made, then more often than not, broken. But this year, the healthy eating part may have a more lasting effect. Over the past few seasons several healthy food trends have gained popularity, culminating in the present practice that seems here to stay—preventative healthcare through nutritious ingredients. Never before have so many sought out meals that can benefit their mind, their heart…their weight. In the past it was more about vanity and people who wanted to trim down and firm up. Then the baby boomers started aging and began looking beyond appearances and into longevity. Many went in search of brain-boosting, joint-relieving, waist-trimming recipes like never before. Add to that the Millennials’ desire for all things organic, humane and sustainable, and you see why vegetables as the center of the plate, nutrient-dense side dishes, and a proliferation of superfood recipes are making headlines and starring on menus. So be prepared to meet the wants and needs of the evolving customers with these long-term, healthoriented lifestyle goals by kicking off 2015 menus with healthy, delicious meals—think leafy greens, bright colors, and high-impact flavors. [ADVERTORIAL]

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Baby Kale, Salmon, and Grapefruit Salad

n Markon First Crop (MFC) Kalettes are a new hybrid of Russian Kale and Brussels Sprouts. Chefs are clamoring to serve these unique-looking, vitaminpacked ingredients. Try balancing their earthy, cruciferous flavors with zesty MFC Onions and Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) Peeled Garlic—as well as a hint of salty pancetta and tangy balsamic vinegar.

Packed with nutrients and vibrant flavors, this salad works year-round as a healthy side or main course.

Citrus Stacks

n Newest to the market is RSS Baby Kale Mix. These bite-sized leaves taste great and contain the same nutrients as their full-size cousins. Serve it as a lunch or dinner entrée by topping with the healthy omega-3 oils in smoked salmon and a juicy dose of vitamin C in RSS Grapefruit Segments.

n Tis the season for citrus—and this colorful stack of blood and parel oranges, grapefruit, and lemons is a light, refreshing way to end a hearty winter meal. Garnish with crunchy pomegranate seeds and energizing MFC Mint.

Vibrantly colorful and loaded with healthy vitamins and fiber, these citrus stacks make a light appetizer or dessert.

EnerCHI Asian Blend with Red Quinoa

n Be sure to offer several meat-free options so customers don’t give your restaurant the vegetarian veto vote. RSS EnerCHI Asian Salad combines hearty bok choy with snow pea shoots, mustard greens, spinach and carrots. Lightly stir-fry this mix with a Hoisin-ginger dressing and top with tofu squares. Maximize health with this vitamin-packed salad.

n RSS Shredded Kale takes the prep work out of serving this “king of the health trend.” Toss it with paprika-dusted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and sherry vinaigrette; add a touch of umami with shaved Parmesan cheese. n

Shredded Kale Salad

Scan the QR code for these great recipes and more! This hearty salad works solo as an appetizer or topped with grilled chicken for an entrée.

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Pairing Matching Craft Brews to Your Menu

Like the trademark foam that rises to the top, beer elevates your menu, taking your dishes to totally unexpected places. Mastering the craft of the draft couldn’t be easier with our guide to glazing and braising, complementing and calming, bringing out the sweet and toning down the bitter. Craft beers may be produced by fiercely independent entrepreneurs, but they still know how to play nice and bring out the best in others. Our brew crew mixed it up with a cross section of lineages, techniques and styles, and we’re ready to share the results of an intense week-long experience that took the fight out of the equation and replaced it with some glorious collaborations. We’ve matched up well-balanced Belgians, heavy English malts, long-lasting German darks and hoppy pale ales with their soul mates, and turned alchemist in the kitchen, using beer’s complex sugars to unlock a world of subtle flavors. So put the wine back in the cellar and plan a session or two with these chef-created, brew-tested combos. Just keep in mind the wise words of Chicago Beverage Systems’ Joe Morrison: “There’s never going to be only one pairing that works – try everything.” In other words, when it comes to beer, don’t keep it bottled up, just let it flow.

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F O O D

B E V E R A G E

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division. Article side bars by Mindy Kolof. Photos by Dan Coha. Food styling by Susan Barrientos Hevey.

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F O O D

B E V E R A G E

Pork Belly with Krombacher Dark Glaze Chef Paul Young | Reinhart Milwaukee Division

INGREDIENTS 10 oz

Pork belly, single rib, skin off

½ Tbsp

Kosher coarse salt

½ tsp

Black pepper, café grind

2 oz

Unsalted sweet cream butter

2 oz

Heavy whipping cream

9 oz

Idaho russet potato

1 tsp

Minced garlic

1 pint

Krombacher Dark Stout

2 Tbsp

Light brown sugar

1 tsp

Cracked black pepper

¼ oz

Baby fennel, sliced thin

3 Tbsp

Olive oil

PREPARATION [serves 2] Season the pork belly with kosher salt and café grind black pepper. In a mediumhot pan, add the oil and sear the pork belly on both sides. [approximately 8 minutes per side]. In saucepot heat water and boil potatoes until tender. Drain. Add the potatoes back into the pot and season with kosher salt, garlic, butter and cream. Whisk until a potato purée is formed. In a small saucepot add the demi-glace, kosher salt. brown sugar, cracked black pepper and beer. Cook on medium for approximately 10-15 minutes or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Plate the pork belly atop the potato purée and drizzle with the stout glaze. In the pan you cooked the pork belly in, reheat the oil and add the fennel. Wilt fennel and garnish the pork belly. Pair with Krombacher Dark Stout.

Portion Cost: $6.70

Suggested Menu Price: $14.95

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

58 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Profit: $8.25

It’s Getting Crafty in Here W ine has its sommeliers, coffee its baristas, and beer its cicerones. Wait, cicerones? It may sound like an Italian pastry, but our two cicerones, Patrick Gould of Windy City Distributing (left) and Joe Morrison of Chicago Beverage Systems, Reyes Holdings, worked hard to earn that title. Given the growing numbers of craft beers brought to market each year, it’s no small task to meet the Cicerone Certification requirements: “demonstrate a deep and well-rounded knowledge of beer that includes styles and history, ingredients and brewing process, quality and taste, and storage, sales and service.” Gould currently sells an astounding 1200 SKUs from 52 small, primarily American breweries; Morrison expertly co-manages his company’s 35+ craft brands. Few are better qualified than these certified masters of their craft, so we enlisted their help to pair – and share some brew lore along the way.

PORK BELLY w/ KROMBACHER DARK GLAZE “This is a fantastic pairing, I was immediately transported to a rustic German beer hall,” says Morrison. “A great contrast,” agrees Gould, “the roasty, chocolaty notes and crispy texture of the pork work together well. The Krombacher Dark has a lightness that keeps the palate clean.”

Every brand has a story, and it’s the cicerones’ job to tell it, says Gould. “People in their 20s and 30s are looking for products they can connect with, and that’s why these craft brands are succeeding. A lot of them are a guy with a home brew kit and a dream, who started in his garage and built an entire business. People identify with that and if the products are good enough, they’d rather pay an extra dollar or two to support that dream.”

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 59

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Beer Steamed Littleneck Clams & Chorizo with Meyer Lemon Oil Grilled Baguette

Chef Lee Sepaniac | Culinary Specialist, Gourmet Food Group

INGREDIENTS 1 lb

Clams, frozen in shell

2 oz

Bilbao chorizo, sliced

½ oz

Shallots, minced

½ oz

Garlic, minced

6 oz

Leinenkugel's Honey Weisse

Lemon, juice and zest

2 oz

Butter, unsalted

1 oz

Scallion, sliced

2 slices

Baguette

½ oz

Meyer lemon oil

PREPARATION [serves 1] Sweat garlic and shallots in 1 oz. of the butter until translucent. Add chorizo and sautée for 1 minute. Deglaze with beer and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Add frozen whole clams. Bring to a simmer until all clams are heated thoroughly and transfer them into a bowl. Add sliced scallions and wait for liquid to come to a simmer, and then mount with the other 1 oz. of butter. Pour steaming liquid over clams and serve with Lemon Oil Grilled Bread: Prepare 2 slices of baguette with Meyer lemon oil with either an oil sprayer or a brush and grill. Serve with Metropolitan Lemongrass Krankshaft or Troublesome Wheat Beer.

Portion Cost: $6.92

Suggested Menu Price: $13.99

Profit: $7.07

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

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Off Color Brewery’s Troublesome Beer is anything but. Just be prepared for the lemony tartness created with a blend of plain wheat and lactobacillusfermented acidic beers…and a pinch of coriander at the end.

Looks good enough to eat, doesn’t it? Thanks to the herculean efforts of dozens of people who largely remain uncredited, the pork belly sizzles juicier, the beer froths more abundantly, and the mac and cheese glistens richer. Setting the scene requires an artist’s eye to place every fork just so and a chef’s expertise to keep it real. Food stylists roll up their sleeves, prepared to whip up duck confit or sear a burger to underdone perfection. Adding to the complexity: this meticulously coordinated orchestration of hundreds of details is managed by a team of independent contractors who work together only sporadically. Ideating the concept is just the start, followed by weeks of planning that includes creating original recipes, analyzing ingredients and content, developing a shopping list for groceries and an equally comprehensive one for props, identifying suppliers for hard-to-find items, plotting out every surface, color and camera angle, and breaking down each day’s schedule to prepare and cook each recipe…more than once. But it works, every time, and this section is dedicated not only to the food, but to the folks who spend their days primping, priming and prepping it to perfection.

Learn how to make an edible menu with food styling tips from the pros in the spring issue of Restaurant Inc. ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 61

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Thai BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich Chef Jeffrey Merry | Reinhart Boston Division

INGREDIENTS 1 each

Italian ciabatta bun

4 fl oz

Pulled pork

2 cups

Mayonnaise

3 Tbsp

Sweet Asian chili sauce

2 Tbsp

Sriracha chili sauce

6 oz

Red onion thinly sliced

12 oz

Mango, sliced thin

1 cup

Thai basil, medium leaves torn in half

Â˝ cup

Lime juice

4 Tbsp

Olive oil blend

3 Tbsp

Salt

PREPARATION [serves 1] Mix mayonnaise, 2 tbsp sweet Asian chili sauce, and Sriracha chili sauce together well. Set aside as Sriracha mayonnaise. Mix red onion, sliced mango, Thai basil leaves, lime juice, olive oil, and salt in a separate bowl. Set aside as mango salad. Split bun in half and grill lightly. Spread both halves of bun with Sriracha mayonnaise. Mix pulled pork with remaining 1 Tbsp of sweet Asian chili sauce. Spoon pulled pork on bottom half of ciabatta. Top with mango salad, then cover with top bun. Serve with Dogfish Head Burton Baton.

Portion Cost: $7.19

Suggested Menu Price: $14.99

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

62 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Profit: $7.80

On Tap for 2015:

A Swing to Sessions & Sours ould and Morrison predict a G steady stream of new, local craft breweries, more session beers, and if sour surges, a slew of converted vino enthusiasts. Here’s why:

“As people begin to appreciate the nuances of beer, the pendulum will swing back to brews with enough flavor and complexity to keep them interested throughout a session, but not so much that the palate gets fatigued,” says Gould. Breweries, he says, like this too, as a way to capture entry-level beer drinkers, with a familiar style that’s quick to make and lower in alcohol. Sour beers, says Morrison, are beginning to get some play in America, with people wanting to push the limit and try brews known for notes like “barnyard and horse blanket. Sounds crazy but it comes from wild yeast, and it really lives up to its name.” Originating in a Belgian valley, the yeast is unpredictable and can be difficult to work with, requiring special cool sheds to ferment.

THAI BBQ PULLED PORK SANDWICH W/ DOGFISH HEAD BURTON BATON “Very deep and complex, a blend of English mild ale and imperial IPA. You get vanilla, woody, roasty flavors from the malt and booziness, hops and spice from the IPA,” says Morrison. Gould notes: “You can have fun with spicy food; either heighten it with IPA, or pair it with a lighter, more carbonated beer to extinguish the spice.”

“It’s more art than science,” says Gould, “the wild yeast can yield flavor compounds that commercial yeast won’t.” A few American brewers are trying it, among them Off Color Brewing in Chicago, which blends an ordinary wheat beer with an acidic beer fermented solely with lactobacillus (used in yogurt). Colorado’s New Belgium, boasting “one of the best sour beer programs in America,” recently released Snapshot, wheat and pale malt blended with the pucker power of lactobacillus, a “bridge beer that can get you deeper into the portfolio,” says Morrison. And fair warning to the wine market: “If I can get wine drinkers interested in and addicted to sour beers, they may never go back!” promises Gould. ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 63

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Hogg- i n- n ator Burger Chef Demetrio Marquez | Reinhart New Orleans Division

INGREDIENTS 1

Onion roll

4 oz ‐

90/10 raw ground beef

4 oz

Ground raw applewood bacon

4 oz

Ground raw pork sausage

4 ea

Strips of cooked bacon (set aside)

1 slice

Cheddar cheese

1 oz

Green leaf lettuce

1 slice

Red onion

2 slices

Roma tomato

Black pepper

Sea salt

TRUFFLE AIOLI ¼ tsp

Truffle oil

2 oz

Mayonnaise

¼ tsp

Minced garlic clove

Mix all ingredients together; then set aside

PREPARATION [serves 1] Mix the ground beef, ground bacon and sausage together, season and then make the patt. On a hot flat-top grill or outdoor grill, cook to desired temperature; then let rest for a couple of minutes. Build your burger with all the garnishes accompanied with the truffle aioli. Pair with Newcastle Brown Ale.

Portion Cost: $4.91

Suggested Menu Price: $12.99

Profit: $8.08

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

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Brews Clues S uccessfully pairing beer with food requires attention to the dominant taste and flavor elements in each:

Complementing Pulling like flavors out of the food and beer, such as pairing malty beer with hearty food Maillard Effect- Caramelizing, Browning, Roasting

Contrasting Flavors are amplified against one another, such as bitterness in beer against the sweetness of a dessert Beers with a sweet finish or maltiness counter the flavor of a roasted or smoked dish Roasted flavor of a stout versus the briney, salty flavor of oysters

Cutting/Calming Wiping out the taste of the food by cleansing the palate with beer Neutralizing the effects of certain flavors Cooking burgers, even for the camera, is a balancing act. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You want to cook it long enough to get a nice sear on the outside, but not overcook or it will look too dry. We poured oil over the burger at the searing point to make it look super juicy and dabbed it off before placing inside the bun.â&#x20AC;? - Le Cordon Bleu-trained food stylist Susan Hevey

High carbonation of pale lagers and the sweet, doughy-ness of wheat beers calm the flavor of spicy chicken wings Bitterness of IPAs and Scotch Ales can cut the fattiness of cheeses like blue cheese Source: craftbeer.com ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 65

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Sweet & Spicy Mac & Cheese Paired with SKA Brewing Pinstripe Red Ale

INGREDIENTS 4C

Cavatappi pasta

Tillamook white cheddar. grated

1/2 C

Bread crumbs

Heavy cream

1/4 C

Sweet chili sauce

2 Tbsp

Sriracha

PREPARATION [serves 4] In a heavy-bottomed stock pot, reduce the cream by half. Add the sweet chili sauce and Sriracha and mix thoroughly. Cook cavatappi until al dente. In a casserole dish mix cavatappi, cheese and cream sauce. Add cooked ham or sausage and cooked veggies of your choice if you so desire. Sprinkle top with bread crumbs and bake uncovered in a 350째F oven until browned, about 20 minutes. Serve with a pint of SKA Brewing Pinstripe Red Ale.

Portion Cost: $3.72

Suggested Menu Price: $9.99

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

66 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Profit: $6.27

Sweet and Spicy Mac and Cheese paired with SKA Brewing Pinstripe Red Ale. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I may not have led with this pairing, but for all its hoppiness and bitterness, red ale has caramel-y sweetness on the front end that pairs well the sweet and spicy mac and cheese,â&#x20AC;? says Gould.

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 67

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Espresso Crusted Venison Loin w/ Stout Reduction



“I matched heavy with heavy on this one, to make sure the beer can battle with the strong, somewhat gamey flavor of the meat,” says Gould. “The cabbage can take some heat, and I wanted to make sure the beer would stand up to the flavor profile of that as well. The Yeti has a ton of coffee and a ton of chocolate flavor, with a little bit of vanilla from the oak. It provides a relatively dense and tight flavor experience, and can come in and clean up.” The “imperial” tag signifies a dense, boozy profile, stemming from its origins as a gift from England to Russian czars, made with enough alcohol and sugars to endure the long journey across the sea. “Unlike most beers, as it ages, the sugars intensify and it actually improves over time.”

 For full recipes see page 70. 68 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

 Spinach & Ricotta Gnudi w/ Duck Confit “A heavy dish that needs the beer’s carbonation to keep the palate jumping. This has enough alcohol (9 percent) to stand up to the depth and heft of the recipe, and the spectrum of flavors complements the spinach and ricotta,” says Gould. “I love this choice too because Belgian beers are a great baseline, giving you herbal and citrus notes that work with any kind of dish, any kind of caramelization. The Tripel is a lighter beer, and I was glad to see these together,” says Morrison.



ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 69



Espresso Crusted Venison Loin with

Stout Reduction Demi Glace & Drunken Red Cabbage



Low Country Boil with Abita Golden

Chef Lee Sepaniac Culinary Specialist, Gourmet Food Group

Chef Demetrio Marquez Reinhart New Orleans Division

Serves: 1

Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS 6 oz ½ pod ¼ oz ½ tsp ½ oz ½ oz 4 oz ½ oz 1 whole 2 oz 1 oz 12 oz 2 oz ½C 2 oz 2 oz

INGREDIENTS

Venison loin Ground espresso Espresso salt Cracked pepper Minced shallot Minced garlic Great Divide Espresso Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout Prepared venison Demi-Glace Red cabbage, sliced 2 lb. avg. Red onion, julienne Garlic, minced Blue Moon Chimp Imperial Wheat Ale Balsamic vinegar Brown sugar Dried tart cherries Toasted, chopped walnuts

PREPARATION VENISON: Season loin with salt/pepper and ground espresso. Reserve for 10 minutes. Sear in cast iron skillet and then finish roasting in 300°F oven until medium rare. DEMI-GLACE: Sweat shallots and garlic in a few drops of vegetable oil until translucent, then deglaze with stout beer. Bring to a simmer and reduce by 1/2. Add 1/2 oz of venison demi-glace and bring to a simmer.

12 6 (4") 6 ears 3 lbs

Crab boil, 2 tsp per quart of water Red new potatoes Smoked Cajun sausage links Corn Fresh shrimp, unpeeled

PREPARATION Fill a large pot with enough water to cover all of the ingredients. Add the crab boil and bring to a boil. Adjust the crab boil to suit your taste. When the water boils, add the potatoes and sausage. Cook on medium heat for 20 minutes. Add corn and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Add shrimp and cook for no more than 3 minutes. Drain and serve with warm bread. Pair with Abita Golden.

DRUNKEN CABBAGE: While slicing red cabbage, sweat red onion and garlic in large rondo until translucent. Deglaze with Imperial Wheat beer; add vinegar and sugar. Braise cabbage until tender, about 30 minutes. Finish cabbage by adding dried tart cherries and topping with toasted walnuts.

Portion Cost: $25.87 Suggested Menu Price: $34.99 Profit: $9.12

Portion Cost: $6.69 Suggested Menu Price: $14.99 Profit: $8.30

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division. 70 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

 Spinach & Ricotta Gnudi



Lobster Sliders with

Sam Adams Double Agent IPL

with Duck Confit

Chef Paul Young Reinhart Milwaukee Division

Chef Jeffrey Merry Reinhart Boston Division

Serves: 4

Serves: 1

16 oz 6 oz 3 oz 1 tsp 1/2 tsp 5 oz 4 oz 5 Tbsp 8 oz 1/4 tsp 4 1/4 oz 16 oz 20 oz 2 tsp 1/8 oz

INGREDIENTS 6 oz ½C 1 tsp 1/8 C 1 3

Lobster meat Mayonnaise Old Bay seasoning Celery, diced Leaf lettuce Mini brioche rolls

PREPARATION Combine first 4 items, lightly mix, divide into thirds. Split rolls and place part of leaf lettuce on bottom portion. Place salad on each roll, top and serve. Pair with Sam Adams Double Agent IPL.

INGREDIENTS Ricotta, whipped part skim tub Spinach, chopped Exotic wild blend mushrooms Ground white pepper Crushed red pepper Unsalted sweet cream butter Italian bread crumbs All purpose flour Cherry tomatoes, sliced Ground nutmeg Eggs Garlic, minced Duck thighs Duck fat, rendered Cracked black pepper Fresh rosemary

PREPARATION In a large bowl mix together ricotta, spinach, nutmeg, 2 eggs, 2 egg yolks, bread crumbs, salt and white pepper. portion into heaping tablespoon portions. In a large pot season 4 quarts of water liberally with salt. Once it comes to a boil add the gnudi and let cook for approximately 4 minutes. Meanwhile in a sautée pan add the butter and sautée the mushrooms, garlic, and tomatoes. Add 5 Tbsp of the cooking liquid to the pan. Add the gnudi to the pan and sautée 2 minutes until well covered with the sauce. For the duck: In a 400°F oven place a third pan with the duck thighs and duck fat; add the black pepper and rosemary. Cook for 3½ hours. Cool and remove meat from the bone. Garnish with torn tarragon and pair with Allagash Tripel.

Portion Cost: $11.09 Suggested Menu Price: $17.99 Profit: $6.90

Portion Cost: $4.55 Suggested Menu Price: $14.95 Profit: $10.40 ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 71

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Learn the different types of

Beer Glasses Picking the right beer glass can be confusing, but we are here to help.

Pint Glass (or Becker, Nonic, Tumbler) Near cylindrical, with a slight taper and wide mouth. There are two standard sizes, the 16-ounce (US Tumbler - the poor man's pint glass and most common) or the 20-ounce Imperial (Nonic), which has a slight ridge towards the top, a grip of sorts and helps in stacking. The 20-ounce version is preferred to accommodate more beer or beers with large crowning heads. A Becker is the German equivalent, tapering at the top.

Benefits: Easy to store. Easy to drink out of. Use with these Beer Styles: American Lagers, American Amber / Red Ales, American Black Ale, American Blonde Ale, Brown Ale, American Dark Wheat Ale, IPAs, APAs, Porter, Stout, Black & Tan, Cream Ale, Oatmeal Stout, Pumpkin Ale, Rye Beer, Saison / Farmhouse Ale & more

Goblet or Chalice Majestic pieces of work, ranging from delicate and long stemmed (Goblet) to heavy and thick walled (Chalice). The more delicate ones may also have their rims laced with silver or gold, while the heavy boast sculpture-like stems. Some are designed to maintain a 2-centimeter head. This is achieved by scoring the inside bottom of the glass, which creates a CO2 nucleation point, and a stream of eternal bubbles and perfect head retention as a result.

Benefits: Eye candy. Designed to maintain head. Wide-mouthed for deep sips.

Use with these Beer Styles: Belgian IPA, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, Dubbel, Tripel

Mug (or Seidel, Stein) Snifter Used for brandy and cognac, these widebowled and stemmed glasses with their tapered mouths are perfect for capturing the aromas of strong ales. Volumes range, but they all provide room to swirl and agitate volatiles.

Heavy, sturdy, large and with handle, the mug is a fun and serious piece of glassware that comes in many sizes and shapes. The best part of using mug's is that you can clink them together with more confidence than other types of glassware, and they hold loads of beer. Seidel is a German glass mug, while a Stein is the stoneware equivalent that traditionally features a lid, the use of which dates back to the Black Plague to prevent flies from dropping in.

Benefits: Captures and enhances volatiles.

Benefits: Easy to drink out of. Holds plenty of volume.

Use with these Beer Styles: American Double / Imperial IPA, American Double / Imperial Stout, American Strong Ale, Belgian Dark Ale, Belgian Pale Ale, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, Belgian Strong Pale Ale, Braggot, Eisbock, Foreign / Export Stout, Gueuze, Lambic - Fruit, Old Ale, Quadrupel (Quad), Russian Imperial Stout, Scotch Ale / Wee Heavy, Tripel, Wheatwine

Use with these Beer Styles: American:(Amber / Red Ale, Amber / Red Lager, Black Ale, Blonde Ale, Brown Ale & more), Baltic Porter, Black & Tan, Bock, Chile Beer, Cream Ale, Czech Pilsener, Doppelbock, English:(Bitter, Brown Ale, Dark Mild Ale, India Pale Ale [IPA], Porter, Stout, Strong Ale), German Pilsener, Herbed / Spiced Beer, Irish Dry Stout, Milk / Sweet Stout, Oatmeal Stout, Scottish Ale, Vienna Lager, Witbier & more

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What's in a beer glass? Hopefully beer, but there's much more to be found. Though some beer novices say "the vast majority of glassware is just marketing," this couldn't be further from the truth. We feel that beer drinkers deserve better than this. So here's the real deal... Sure, there's a marketing component to beer glassware, but one only needs to look beyond the branding to discover that something bigger is taking place. As soon as the beer hits the glass, its color, aroma and taste is altered, your eye candy receptors tune in, and your anticipation is tweaked. Hidden nuances become more pronounced, colors shimmer, and the enjoyment of the beer simply becomes a better, more complete experience. Scientific studies show that the shape of glassware will impact head development and retention. Why is this important? The foam created by

Tulip A stemmed glass, obviously tulip-shaped, wherein the top of the glass pushes out a bit to form a lip in order to capture the head and the body is bulbous. Scotch Ales are often served in a "thistle glass," which is a modified tulip glass that resembles Scotland's national flower.

Benefits: Captures and enhances volatiles, while it induces and supports large, foamy heads.

Use with these Beer Styles: American Double / Imperial IPA, American Wild Ale, Belgian Dark Ale, Belgian IPA, Belgian Pale Ale, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, Belgian Strong Pale Ale, BiĂ¨re de Garde, Flanders Oud Bruin, Flanders Red Ale, Gueuze, Lambic - Fruit, Quadrupel (Quad), Saison / Farmhouse Ale, Scotch Ale / Wee Heavy

pouring a beer acts as a net for many of the volatiles in a beer. What's a volatile? Compounds that evaporate from beer to create its aroma, such as hop oils, all kinds of yeast fermentation byproducts like alcohol, fuels and fruity esters, spices or other additions. So a glass that promotes a healthy foam head may enhance the trapping of certain volatiles. And as varying levels of head retention and presentation are desired with different styles of beers, different styles of glassware should be used accordingly. Presentation marries science. So which glassware do you use? The answer can often be overwhelming. In Europe, especially Belgium, each brand of beer will often have its own glass. But fret not! We've compiled eight of the most recommended glassware that will arm you with a very versatile arsenal. n Content provided by Beer Advocate [www.beeradvocate.com]

Weizen Glass Nothing beats serving your Weizenbier (wheat beer) in an authentic Bavarian Weizen Glass. These classy glasses, with their thin walls and length, showcase the beer's color and allow for much headspace to contain the fluffy, sexy heads associated with the style. Most are 0.5L in size. Forget the lemon garnish with this glass, the citric acid will kill the head.

Benefits: Specifically produced to take on volume and head, while locking in the banana-like and phenol aromas associated with the style.

Use with these Beer Styles: American Dark Wheat Ale, American Pale Wheat Ale, Dunkelweizen, Gose, Hefeweizen, Kristalweizen, Weizenbock

Pilsner Glass (or Pokal) Typically a tall, slender and tapered 12-ounce glass, shaped like a trumpet at times, that captures the sparkling efferrescence and colors of a Pils while maintaining its head. A Pokal is a European Pilsner glass with a stem.

Benefits: Showcases color, clarity and carbonation. Promotes head retention. Enhances volatiles. Use with these Beer Styles: American Adjunct Lager,

American Amber / Red Lager, American Double / Imperial Pilsner, American Malt Liquor, American Pale Lager, Bock, California Common / Steam Beer, Czech Pilsener, Doppelbock, Dortmunder / Export Lager, Euro Dark Lager, Euro Pale Lager, Euro Strong Lager, German Pilsener, Happoshu, Japanese Rice Lager, Light Lager, Low Alcohol Beer, Maibock / Helles Bock, Munich Dunkel Lager, Munich Helles Lager, Schwarzbier, Vienna Lager, Witbier

Stange (Slender Cylinder) A traditional German glass, stange means "stick", and these tall, slender cylinders are used to serve more delicate beers, amplifying malt and hop nuances. Substitute with a Tom Collins glass.

Benefits: Tighter concentration of volatiles. Use with these Beer Styles: Altbier, Bock, Czech Pilsener, Faro, Gose, Gueuze, KĂślsch, Lambic - Fruit, Lambic - Unblended, Rauchbier, Rye Beer ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 73

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STEAK 101 by Audarshia Townsend

e met the happiest herd of bulls on the planet. Some incredibly pampered beasts catered to as though they’re part of the British royal family. They indulge in full-body massages on the regular, graze on high-end feed and live on a ranch so peaceful you’d swear it was a retreat. Their nirvana is a place called Five Star Land & Livestock, a family-owned ranch that’s been around for five generations in Wilton, Calif. Owned by the Nelson family, Five Star is not your average cattle ranch. It’s a bit misleading, in fact, to call it a cattle ranch even though it looks like all the ones you may have passed during road trips. The livestock farm specializes in producing premium Angus bulls, and those bulls go on to mate with “regular” or commercial cows to produce some of the best beef in the world. Co-owner Abbie Nelson will tell you that “a lot of decisions are super important [at this ranch] as the process goes along.” She adds that Five Star “is the beginning,” as the bulls’ pedigrees can be traced all the way back to Scotland. That’s incredibly cool and not too many ranchers can make those same claims. What’s even cooler – which is what makes Five Star’s cattle premium – is that out of 29 million cows in the United States only a very small percentage are of this caliber and registered with the 30,000-member-strong American Angus Association. But according to Michael Ollier, the corporate chef for Certified Angus Beef®, not all Angus beef is equal. And not all farmers producing Angus are members of the AAA. “Producing premium beef is a way of life for the generations of Angus cattlemen and women who bring you the Certified Angus Beef brand, which is the only brand owned by the American Angus Association and its more than 25,000 rancher members,” explains Ollier. “The brand was introduced in 1978 by a group of Angus farmers who wanted to provide consumers with consistently flavorful, high-quality beef.” Certified Angus Beef can currently be found in 9,000 restaurants in 27 countries, including, of course, the United States. In order to be classified under this particular brand, the beef must pass a grading system beyond the required U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) tests. (All beef in the United States undergoes a mandatory inspection for wholesomeness and safety by the USDA.) Basic beef grading offers a guide to that product’s quality, palatability and consistency, says Ollier. Marbling also plays a key role in beef grades. In short, the more marbling, the higher the quality of beef. Most people are familiar with the top three beef grades: USDA Prime, Choice and Select. Prime tops the scale, because of its ample marbling; Choice beef has somewhat less marbling than Prime cuts; and Select beef is noticeably less marbled than Choice.

important requirement, so only Prime or the best Choice beef can be considered. Additional specifications, he adds, guarantee superior taste, tenderness, appearance and consistency. For John Pickerrel, founder and president of the California-based Buckhorn Restaurant Group, consistency was the deciding factor for him to exclusively offer Certified Angus Beef in his restaurants. “I had previously been searching every [cattle] feedlot [in the region] and knew every establishment number for every packer, and I was tracing very high quality beef back to the feedlots and all of the feeding programs. I knew what everyone was feeding [their cattle] and I knew where,” Pickerrel recalls. “When [Certified Angus Beef] came along, it was like a dream come true. So I didn’t have to worry about who was feeding what and where because CAB took over and they really solved a lot of my consistency problems.” Pickerrel’s Buckhorn Steakhouse serves the typical ribeye and New York strip, but the fast-casual Buckhorn Grill specializes in the tri-tip, a less expensive cut of beef from the bottom sirloin subprimal cut. Pickerrel says that he decided to offer this cut because the quality is as good as the premium cuts. He also wanted his loyal steakhouse customers to have a more casual setting in which they’d feel comfortable ordering steak. “We knew that people would follow us to the next price point if we were able to serve very high quality beef consistently,” he says. “I’ve been in the business for 41 years, and I have to say that consistency is a huge thing in

RUMP

RIBEYE PRIME RIB

NECK

SIRLOIN

RUMP CAP

TENDERLOIN

CHUCK

ROUND

According to Ollier, independent USDA graders evaluate whether Angus beef meets the brand’s 10 strict standards for quality. Marbling is its most

SHANK

SHORT PLATE

FLANK SHANK

BREAST

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the beef industry. If you’re not differentiating yourself with quality [in the fast-casual category], then you’re just worried about the price all the time.” In mid-2014, the Smith & Wollensky Restaurant Group made a similar move of adding a casual establishment to its collection. The first-ever Wollensky’s Grill settled on the lower level of Chicago’s downtown Smith & Wollensky location. (Additional locations are planned across the country.) It’s more dressed up than Buckhorn Grill in that it accommodates more sit-down diners than take-out customers; however, the prices are considerably more affordable than Smith & Wollensky. It’s also set up to appeal to the customer who wants to share a juicy steak with friends in a relaxed environment. “Our dining habits [as a culture] have changed,” says Kim Giguere-Lapine, vice president of marketing for Smith & Wollensky Restaurant Group. During her five years at the company, she’s observed that many diners are ordering steak to be shared with the table as well as non-steak menu items. “That’s why we came up with a concept that was more approachable and casual,” she says. “When more guests order shareable entrees and appetizers, it allows the food to come out of the kitchen quicker. We [also] use the beef that we have already to create a completely different menu.

Steak Out(takes) Which steak cuts do you feel are the most underrated? “Personally, the sirloin. I order it with extra char because the caramelization is perfect and the marbling of the fat creates an intense taste.”—Kim Giguere-Lapine “The often-overlooked Flank steak is lean and very flavorful. Frequently used for fajitas, it’s also great when grilled whole and then sliced, or used in a roulade. It has a very prominent grain, so be sure to slice against it to maximize the tenderness in every bite. Flank steak also lends itself well to marinades.”—Michael Ollier “Chuck eye, a little-known treasure, is truly an insider’s secret! Chuck eye steaks are cut from the Chuck eye roast, but in fact are the same muscles as a ribeye steak, which are prized for their robust flavor and tenderness. Seek out the first two cuts from the Chuck eye roast (from the end adjacent to the ribeye); these will be the most tender and flavorful at a much lower cost.”—Ollier

“Cuts are a bit different, such as a signature smoked ribeye that’s based on the classic ribeye sold in the main restaurant. It’s served sliced at the table, making it perfect for sharing.”

How do temperatures on the steaks affect the flavor of meat?

Regardless of whether the steakhouse concept caters to casual diners at Buckhorn Grill or targets an upscale audience in the case of Smith & Wollensky, one thing is for certain: The steakhouse is here to stay.

“When you’re talking about a filet, it should be served rare because it’s such a rare piece of meat. Sometimes it’s not the most flavorful piece of meat. It’s the least beefy flavor. A ribeye, I would get medium or medium rare. It should be cooked a little bit to tame the fat. A New York strip should be medium rare because you can get a nice char on it while it’s still pink. It also has a lot of nice marbling on it. We train our broiler cooks to use a thermometer. There’s no guesswork.”—Nate Henssler

“It’s the original American restaurant,” declares Nate Henssler, the culinary director for Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak and Stone Crab in Chicago, Las Vegas and Washington, D.C. “It’s our own thing. Most people love steak and it’s not something you [typically] get at home. It’s an important part of American culture.” Certified Angus Beef’s Michael Ollier also credits the successful advertising campaigns "Nothing Satisfies Like Real Beef" and "Beef - It's What's for Dinner" for helping to make steakhouses the most important cuisine category in the country. “That is why steakhouses abound, and new ones keep popping up!” he exclaims. “Great beef is a perennial favorite food, and has long been the food of celebration.” n

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“The very best way to check a steak’s doneness is to use a thermometer. I prefer digital instant-read thermometers for most uses; any good brand/model should work well. Digital models tend to stay calibrated better than traditional dial (analog) thermometers. You can cook your steaks to whatever level of doneness you prefer, but most beef experts and chefs will tell you that they prefer medium rare for optimal flavor, tenderness and juiciness.”—Ollier

Des e PAN SEARED VEAL RIB CHOPS

ALL YOU DESIRE AT THE CENTER OF THE PLATE. Contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant today or visit rfsdelivers.com. ©2014 Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C. • Eagle Ridge® Brand is a trademark licensed by Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C.

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Vibrant Bar Scene Create Your Own

by Audarshia Townsend

almost blew off visiting a spot called Dive Bar simply because of its name, and I’m glad I reconsidered. The Sacramento, Calif.-based watering hole lived up to its moniker in the most glorious manner in that its biggest draw is a 7,500-gallon aquarium that’s home to a mermaid. Yes, mermaid. While the delightful aquatic creature – a beautiful, scantily clad woman donned in a glittery bodysuit made of scales and fishtails – gets people in the door, its other attractions make them want to stay. Sure, they’re mesmerized by how long the mermaid can remain underwater, seemingly having fun as she pretends to drink bottled craft beers and read books, but that wears thin sooner than later. Lucky for Dive Bar, the weeklong events and premium craft cocktail list (and

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Happy Hour!) make coming here more a successful bar operation, and no one than just a novelty act. For example, knows better about trial and error than Thursdays feature dueling pianos, and the Mark Liberson, a nightlife veteran who’s performers will gladly play your favorite been in the business has more than 30 tunes – for a generous tip. While that years. may sound mundane, it gets pretty lively The Chicago native has every possible bar with patrons joining in on the fun. Before position – from busboy to business owner you know it, you’ve been there for a few – so he’s certainly an all-around expert. hours. Annnnd, His expertise has also it’s one o’clock in helped him develop an "We constantly tweak the morning. eagle eye for spotting our concepts for each Dive Bar has been issues at his properties d a y o f t h e w e e k , a n d t r y as well as creating around for more t o g i v e p e o p l e a r e a s o n new bar concepts. than five years, t o be with us beyond the so no doubt the f a c t t h a t w e a r e t h e r e . " “We watch trends in owners have volume and attempt had more than to make changes enough time to cultivate the audience to reverse negative trends and support and go through enough trials and errors positive trends,” says Liberson, who to find out what works. That’s the key to owns six successful nightlife-focused

venues in Chicago’s bustling Boystown neighborhood. “We constantly tweak our concepts for each day of the week, and try to give people a reason to be with us beyond the fact that we are there. Within our venues, we develop appropriate events, which obviously are very different as our venues are all very different, including a dance club [Hydrate], an upscale mixology bar [Elixir], a venue with retro video games [Replay Beer & Bourbon] and a bar and grill with televisions throughout [Halsted’s]. We not only invest in developing different nights and specials that give people a reason to join us, we also invest in keeping our physical venues fresh and redeveloping them when we need to.” Liberson adds that a strong social media

presence, direct mail, VIP programs and aggressive public relations are essential to a bar’s marketing campaign, but so much more is involved in getting the word out.

innovative cocktail program, accolades and awards (a James Beard award in 2013 for Best Bar Program), plus celebrity chefs and bartenders.

“We utilize small print to distribute to customers that tell them what is coming, as well as signage inside our venues (and outside where appropriate) that support our brands,” he says. “Our locations are always in high traffic areas where people will ‘see’ us, and we make sure that we take advantage of that, even utilizing our company’s designer to create videos for screens at our dance club that face the street and focus on our upcoming events.”

World-renowned chef Grant Achatz, who owns the award-winning Alinea and Next restaurants, is behind The Aviary, along with long-time business partner Nick Kokonas.

While The Aviary’s Chicago Warehouse District location doesn’t benefit from high visibility in the physical sense, this "swanky cocktail lounge" has managed to garner worldwide attention for its

With what Kokonas describes as a “few 'big guns' in house,” The Aviary seemingly is a machine on its own. But, of course, that’s not the case. The wheels are in constant motion, and to stay on top, he says, his team is always a few steps ahead of the competition. “We try to come up with innovative, unique ideas that are our own. That takes time, effort, arguments and passion,” he adds. Another important factor is keeping

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the cuisine and cocktail program fresh. Seasonality, he says, is a big part of that. “We want an element of surprise – and anticipation – every time people come back. So, all of our menus are constantly changing. We have a culinary research team and dozens of chefs [to make that happen].” Building that perfect team is on an intense and higher level at The Aviary. From the ice chef – a person whose sole responsibility is to custom design ice to various cocktails’ specifications – to the executive chef, the staff was carefully put together. “We find people who are hard-working in general, and like what we do; then we train them over and over and over to get great at our approach to service,” says Kokonas. Tim Borden, another industry vet and “bar and restaurant profit builder” for A-List Marketing Solutions, prefers personal referrals when it comes to hiring staff. However, he says that is not always possible when opening larger establishments. “Try to make the hiring process as personal and pleasant for the applicant as possible,” says Borden, who has consulted for more than 1,000 bars in 25 major metropolitan areas since 2000. “I hate online forms! Don’t forget, the applicant of today might be the customer of tomorrow, and treat everyone with respect. And always hire primarily on personality; you can teach everything else.” n

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More From The Experts WHAT ARE THE THREE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS EVERY ESTABLISHMENT NEEDS TO BE SUCCESSFUL? “1. Consistency: You can get a great drink many places, but can you get one that is great on a Saturday night at 10 p.m. when the place is full to the brim? That's huge. Building the right systems in place for consistently great cocktails is wildly important. 2. A point of view. You can't expect to have only great drinks and nothing else. You need to create a unique experience for guests that they cannot get anywhere else. 3. Amazing staff that is well trained. We hire staff that look at this work as professionals and we continually train and educate them.” —Nick Kokonas

“To survive and thrive it’s most important to have: a staff that makes every patron feel special; cleanliness, including proper drink preparation, micro- and macrovenue maintenance; good government and community relations.” —Tim Borden

“To be successful you must create a great environment that people feel comfortable socializing in with friends, excellent service and a quality product.” —Mark Liberson

HOW DO YOU MAKE EVERY CUSTOMER FEEL LIKE HE/SHE IS HAVING A VIP EXPERIENCE EVEN IF HE/SHE IS ONLY A "REGULAR" CUSTOMER? “It’s all in the one-on-one interaction between service staff and patrons. You simply need to treat everyone as you would like to be treated when you are spending money and your leisure time. This is a huge challenge in bars as drinking can bring out the worst in some customers, and many bar service staff don’t understand or accept good ‘service behavior.’” —Borden

“When identifying team members we look for personalities and presentation first, then experience, and try to find people who have both. You can teach people how to wait tables, but you cannot teach people how to be friendly and communicate warmth and that they care about our guests. We benefit from a significant number of regular customers, as well as a staff that has had limited turn-over, recognizes our regulars and makes them feel welcome.” —Liberson

If you’ve got bar service, get more from Reinhart Snacks. Disposables. Glassware.

And many more items you need to keep your bar running and profitable : • Towels • Corkscrews • Garnishes • Juices • Mixers • Toothpicks • Bar napkins Ask your Reinhart sales consultant for details.

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FF OO OO DD && BB EE VV EE RR AA GG EE

Teddy’s Where the Customer Comes First, They Keep Comin’ by Mindy Kolof

A homemade anomaly, served on a red-checkered tablecloth seven days a week. That’s Teddy’s Restaurant in tiny Nickelsville, Va. Imagine doing what you love to do, serving home-cooked meals, side-by-side with your spouse in your beloved hometown, and being at full capacity, all day, every day. Now imagine that kind of success for nearly 30 years in a town of about 400 residents, without billboards or advertising. Teddy’s legendary status is even more impressive when you consider Nickelsville is somewhat of a geographical oddity. The restaurant is nestled among national forests and scenic byways in southwest rural Virginia, about 20 minutes from the nearest four-lane highway, and at least two hours from a major city or attraction. “For some reason we have become a relic,” explains Teddy Kilgore, the owner who humbly occupies what he calls his ‘forum’ at the cash register counter daily. “There are just not a lot of places like ours anymore and we get regulars from the surrounding communities. Lately we are even getting a lot of customers from out of state and out of the country who tell me they want to see ‘Real America.’” A new lunch special is offered daily, from hearty homemade beef and vegetable soup with cornbread, to turkey, gravy and a host of vegetables. But, as the regulars will tell you, the hamburgers and the milkshakes are the best and not-to-miss. Like everything on Teddy’s menu, the burgers are never made ahead, never frozen. They are always prepared fresh. And homemade butterscotch pie made daily by Teddy’s wife always delights and surprises newcomers. Teddy’s customer-focused philosophy underlies his success. “Whenever I hire a new waiter or waitress, the very first thing I impress on them is that the customer comes first, nothing else matters. Everything supports that effort. We must make sure the customer is happy when he leaves. It’s like a wheel, the customer is the center, everything else in the restaurant are the spokes supporting the center to keep us rolling smoothly.” Teddy’s may be out of the way, but good old-fashioned word-of-mouth buzz, in addition to a growing Trip Advisor following and web-savvy country music festival crowds, are literally putting Teddy’s on the map and making it THE destination for travelers in search of real American food. “It’s the atmosphere. We are not at all formal, and we all know each other,” Teddy says proudly. “Out-of-towners like that a lot; most are just not used to experiencing such a loving place.” n

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O P E R A T I O N S

2015’s M u s t - H a v e

KITCHEN TOOLS

Resolutions and Recommendations by Mindy Kolof

If achieving consistency, quality and cleanliness are at the top of your list of New Year’s resolutions, consider these easy-to-use kitchen tools. Regardless of your staff’s experience, these tools are a no-brainer for precision performance in any size operation.

Reinhart wants to help you take the guesswork and variables out of food preparation and give you a few go-to tools to power your operation. Considering menu trends, staffing concerns and food safety, we did some shopping for you. Try these on for size, and work with your local dealer to take a test drive before making a long-term commitment.

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O P E R A T I O N S

Resolution #1: Mix it Up Whether for food preparation or mixology, these Hamilton Beach blenders make our list for two primary reasons: 1) Hamilton Beach blenders use a uniquely superior, vertical, highspeed Wave-Action® that pushes ingredients out and up, then pull blended contents back down to the center. The finished product is creamier and more consistent, every time. 2) The Hamilton Beach Express Care Lifetime Warranty has you completely covered. If ExpressCare can’t help you troubleshoot an issue, Hamilton Beach will ship you a new blender, ready for operation the very next day. TOURNANT HIGH PERFORMANCE FOOD BLENDER Like the French culinary title suggests, the Tournant is designed for demanding chefs who want a blender to master all tasks, beyond what the drink blender can handle: purée soups, emulsify dressings, grind flours, and chop salsas and compotes. And, of course, blend a smooth and creamy drink as well. Along with the patented container and blade design, the Tournant’s one-touch chopping, adjustable speed dial and large dosing cup ensure precision blending every time.

FURY HIGH-PERFORMANCE DRINK BLENDER With a powerfully precise 3-horsepower motor and all-metal driver, the Fury will help the large operation grind through high-volume demand at the bar or drink counter. This smoothly functional, toggle-switch blender is easy to clean and operate, giving busy bartenders more time to serve customers.

ECLIPSE HIGH-PERFORMANCE BLENDER WITH QUIETBLEND™ Rounding out Hamilton Beach’s best bets for high performance, Wave-Action® blending is a more subtle approach to drink preparation. Ideal for noise sensitive environments like lobbies, hospitals or formal restaurants, the Eclipse features QuietBlend™ technology and the Quiet Shield™ enclosure to minimize loudness. The Eclipse still packs a punch with a 3-horsepower motor and stainless steel blade.

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Resolution #2: Be Consistently Fresh! On-trend operators know fresh is best, and consistency never goes out of style. If your operation hopes to achieve memorable greatness this year, we have two recs from Vollrath for back-of-house prep: THE REDCO 5.0 CHOPPER This will become your most versatile kitchen tool. This non-powered, easy-to-clean gadget can be customized for your operation by simply specifying the precise blade for your fresh food slicing. Regardless of who is operating the chopper, you can count on every slice, wedge, chop or coring being consistently perfect. As you add new fresh ingredients to your menu, you only need to order a new blade assembly and you’re ready to go and grow! REDCO INSTACUT™ CUCUMBER SLICER The perfect new addition to freshen up your specialty operation. This gizmo slices lengthwise, coring the cucumber at the same time. If you’re trying to keep up with salad bar preparations, veggie wraps and sushi, your staff will love this product’s easy-to-clean-and-operate features.

Resolution #3: Keep it Clean! Food safety is paramount. Keeping a consistently sanitary operation at every step of preparation is not only a priority, it can be a challenge as staffs change, demand grows and younger employees fill back-of-thekitchen shifts. Kitchen tools need to meet that challenge, and Vollrath has a variety of gadgets with removable, dishwasher-safe elements to keep kitchens above code. PREMIUM™ AND CANMASTER™ CAN OPENERS. We have all heard about the dirtiest inch in the kitchen. Vollrath puts that tradition to rest with a unique line of commercial can openers that allow operators to easily and safely remove the cutting blade for sanitizing in the dishwasher. With two counter-mount models available, one for medium duty (up to 22 cans per day) and one for heavy duty (up to 60 cans per day), these can openers will make your life easier while protecting your operation from bacterial threats. n

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The Service Mindset Superlative guest experiences donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t start with front-line staff. They begin at the top, with owners and management leading the way to excellence and using a philosophical approach to guide them. By Min Johnson

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he One Off Hospitality Group has a full spectrum of restaurants in Chicago, a deliciously rangy mix of concepts from the casual roadside honky-tonk style of Big Star to the combo butcher shop/ restaurant at Publican Quality Meats to the approachable, refined elegance of Michelinstarred Blackbird – the restaurant that started it all for partners Donnie Madia, Paul Kahan and Eduard Seitan. In all, there are eight One Off locations, with the ninth due to open at press time. In an anticookie cutter approach, each one of them, as the company name suggests, is different and entirely unique. Consistent across the company, though, is unwavering attention to the service side of the equation. Says Madia, “It’s what we do. We serve guests in a humble and authentic way.” Madia describes Blackbird, which opened in 1997, as the group’s flagship restaurant but also a sine qua non for everything else that has followed. Values and a philosophy of service that were developed, nurtured and mastered there have become the deeply embedded template that’s used throughout the entire organization – from formal to casual and everything between. “In order to open Publican we first had to do Blackbird. It sets the standards that we follow in all the restaurants,” he says. “It’s our guide, our blueprint.” Certain core tenets of service remain inviolate regardless of the restaurant. “Everywhere, we serve from the left and clear from the right. We don’t remove an item from the table without asking. That’s stuff that never varies,” Madia notes. Training for more casual environments allows some loosening up and an easier manner but one thing can’t change. “Everywhere, we have to care as much as we do at Blackbird. In hiring, I ask why they’re here. If it’s just to pick up a paycheck, then you can’t work for me. This is not just a job. Hospitality has to be something that everyone genuinely believes and lives.”

Common Sense Steps to Better Service Rather than looking only at the previous restaurant experience of potential hires, focus on those who have a service-oriented attitude, a true desire to tend to the many small details that add up to great service. How to take an order or pour wine can be taught and coached; attitude and an "excellence reflex – the desire to do the right thing – can’t." (See the 51 Percent Solution page 90) Give team members the power, confidence, tools and latitude to respond to problems and complaints. If a guest isn’t happy with their order, servers should be able to handle it without calling in the entire managerial hierarchy to stand tableside and hash out a resolution. Work hard to ensure that there is no disconnect between how the management team treats the restaurant staff and what it expects in terms of guest service. In other words, don’t preach the tenets of gracious service by hollering the rules. Resist the temptation to turn expectations for service into a bunch of clichés or bumper-sticker bromides. “The customer is always right” has been repeated so many times that it no longer registers or has the power to provoke a response. Swap it out for something more meaningful and action-oriented, such as “Provide whatever it takes to make guests love dining with us.” Become obsessively devoted to the beginning and the end of all service interactions. Everything that happens in between matters, of course, but guests tend to remember most vividly how meals start and how they end. The service experience doesn’t start when guests sit down at their table. Any point at which customers interact with the restaurant has a bearing on their opinion. Visiting a website that fails to provide appropriate information (not listing address and phone number on the home page is just plain irritating), a brusque or impatient conversation when calling to reserve a table, an icy, snow-covered parking lot or being ignored in the entryway all are negative chits in the total tally. How guests feel is a critical component of how satisfied they will be. If they have the sense of being valued, appreciated and recognized as individuals, chances are very good they will leave the restaurant on a strong positive note. Says Mark Canlis, “As each guest walks in, I ask myself, ‘how do I want them to feel?’ That’s where the game begins.”

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SERVICE WITH A STYLE Service – or more to the point, the lack thereof – is one of the key points on which consumers negatively rate dining experiences. Last year, Zagat released results of its first dining-trends survey. In terms of what irks, bad service significantly outpaced such factors as disappointing food and high prices. While food was cited by just 10% of respondents, 24% noted that subpar service was a major bone of contention. And although poor service has always had the power to damage a restaurant’s reputation, the constant whirl of social media dramatically ups the game. Word of mouth has been dwarfed by word of click, and snarky comments fill online reviews and blogs. According to a report by the White House Office of Consumer Affairs, news of bad service reaches twice as many ears as reports of good service. With review sites such as Yelp, that figure perhaps seems too timid. According to National Restaurant Association research, there are 990,000 restaurant locations in the United States. In a vast and wildly diverse industry that ranges from the

no-frills style of a walk-up hot dog stand to the rarefied and elegant atmosphere found in fine dining, there are many ways to approach guest service. Stylistically, starchy, white-gloved formality has pretty much gone the way of dial phones and transistor radios. Even in five-star restaurants, haughty has been replaced by warmth and the sense that the wait staff is a mashup of a diplomat, appropriately friendly concierge, wise counselor, problem solver and infallible guide. While a pizza restaurant or coffee shop may not require the same intricacy, the ultimate goal should be quite the same: guests who leave feeling that their time and money were well spent and that their decision to patronize the operation was recognized, appreciated and honored. Says Madia, “The humbleness we all carry connects what we do at each of the restaurants. It’s how we touch guests. That’s the important ingredient and it has to be in all of us. The partners can’t point and say to others to do it for us. We have to lead it, be there with them. To be noble is what we stand for, to honor the guests and their decision to be with us. We adjust a few points along the way to tailor

The 51-Percent Solution Danny Meyer, founder of the Union Square Hospitality Group in New York City, exists

in the upper stratosphere of hospitality professionals, a rare breed of restaurant operator with an innate sense of what it means to truly serve a guest. The very word hospitality seems like an extension of his body, a trait so seamlessly integrated into his persona that it may have been coined for him. In his book, “Setting the Table: The Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business,” he writes that hospitality is the foundation of his business philosophy. “Hospitality is present when something happens for you. It is absent when something happens to you. Those two simple prepositions — for and to — express it all.”

Meyer, who presides over a multimillion dollar group that includes Gramercy Tavern, Union Square Café, Blue Smoke, Shake Shack and Hudson Yards Catering, among others, is wise enough to know that it truly does take a village to deliver that level of “for you” hospitality. In his book, Meyer describes what to him makes an ideal hire, the type of person who will be his partner is consistently excellent execution at all levels. Eschewing the pop-psychology trend of seeking so-called 110 percent employees, Meyer instead aims to develop 100% employees with divided 51/49: 51 percent emotional hospitality and 49 percent technical excellence.

“Hospitality is present when something happens for you. It is absent when something happens to you. Those two simple prepositions — for and to — express it all.”

In describing those 51-percenters, he notes that they demonstrate five key emotional skills: 1. Optimistic warmth such as genuine kindness, thoughtfulness and the belief that the glass is always at least half full. 2. Intelligence, not just of the “smart” kind but an insatiable curiosity for continual learning for the sake of learning. 3. A work ethic that displays a natural tendency to do something as well as it can be done. 4. A sense of empathy that demonstrates an awareness of, care for and a connection to how others feel and how your actions make others feel. 5. Self-awareness and integrity that indicates an understanding of what makes that person tick and a natural inclination to be accountable for doing the right thing with honesty and superb judgment.

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service styles, but the basic elements always remain the same. At every point, we think of the guests and put them first.”

TOP DOWN Mark Canlis, a partner in Seattle’s Canlis restaurant, agrees that the guest experience has to be a main driver, with the iron-clad ethos percolating from the top down. “My whole goal is to be a leader worth following,” he says, noting that such a process is a lifelong journey, an evolution of growth. “You don’t check it off a to-do list. You live it and hope others will.” Canlis got an early start on the journey, with a ready supply of role models to guide him; the restaurant was started by his grandparents in 1950. His parents then ran it before his brother, Brian, and he took over as co-owners. “Putting other people first has sustained the business for all these years. That part of it will always be there.” Customer service, says Canlis, is the personal component

of any transaction, the point at which you connect with them as an individual and start to form a relationship. “That’s the foundation of service, understanding who they are and what brought them to Canlis.” Those assessments have to happen pretty quickly, sometimes with little more than body language and demeanor to use as guides. “Every time a guest enters the restaurant, I have a small wave of panic,” admits Canlis. “They’re often strangers, so what do I do? For me and everyone who works with us, you have to have the freedom and the internal strength to read them. Are they excited? Uncertain? Whatever you sense in them, you have to figure out the best ways to meet their needs.” Canlis relies on gentle guidance his mother used when he was growing up to maintain a guest-first approach. “If I started to get selfish or self-centered, she would remind me to instead be “other-centered” – of a mindset to put others first. It’s been a common theme from Day One: live where others are more important than ourselves. That is where great service can really begin.” n

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Snap. Chat. Eat. Post. Repeat. How to attract the photo-centric generation of diners who eat with their eyes, search with their phones and share virtual plates of food wherever they go. by Mindy Kolof

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e’ve all seen them – the diners who hold an iPhone at arm’s length, capturing a full plate of artfully arranged foodstuffs before putting fork to mouth. Call it foodstagramming, camera cuisine or food porn, the age-old chef’s secret that ‘people eat with their eyes first’ has never been in clearer focus than on Instagram. The well-known online platform has framed its own viral success, boasting a lightning swift rise to the top of the Millennials' social media chain in just four years. Starting with a 2011 nod from Apple as ‘app of the year,’ Instagram was acquired by Facebook the following year. Now the app boasts 200 million monthly visitors and it’s growing. Instagram has even achieved the ultimate compliment: its use as familiar social media shorthand as in “I Instagrammed 10 photos of the broccoli with pine nuts dish, and already received 30 likes.”

Datassentials Senior Director Maeve Webster boldly predicts: “We believe photos are the future way to communicate in foodservice. Younger Millennials told us they want to see photos of everything a restaurant offers - quality is not important to them - while older Millennials and Generation X diners are seeking well-curated photos that highlight the food.” The social media genie is well out of the bottle, so the question remains how to capture its magic while juggling the 101 tasks associated with running a restaurant. Should you choose to tweet, build likes on your Facebook page, shoot some quick videos for YouTube or Vimeo, start pinning on Pinterest, or cultivate hundreds of snap-happy followers on Instagram? Restaurant Inc sought out digital media expert Jordana Zizmor for some socially savvy advice. An experienced food blogger and tweeter, she so fervently believes in the power of Instagram that she recently launched a new business venture dedicated solely to getting restaurant operators online and in the picture. [www.jordanazizmor.com] “During 2014, Instagram became the preferred platform for people to discover their food spots; it’s where all the customers are,” she asserts. “The best authentic endorsement an eatery can get is a photo from someone who posts their food in their feed so that their friends, contacts and community can see it. This dramatically enhances the food discovery process.”

“The best authentic endorsement an eatery can get is a photo from someone who posts their food in their feed so that their friends, contacts and community can see it.”

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 93

O P E R A T I O N S

While even the youthful Zizmor remembers when being reviewed in the Sunday New York Times was the pinnacle of achievement for a restaurant operator, these days Instagram empowers a new generation of food critics - the customer - and provides a way for foodies to be seen and heard in a meaningful way. Operators who don’t get involved may be missing a golden opportunity so get ready to get more social with Zizmor’s carefully compiled list of best practices: • First things first. If you don’t already have an Instagram account, create one at www.instagram.com with a name as close to your business’s name as possible. If your business name isn’t available, try adding your location. For example if you are The Big Fish Restaurant, located in Manhattan, and thebigfish is taken on Instagram, try thebigfishnyc instead. Try not to use underscores in your name. • Create a hashtag that’s like an advertising jingle for your restaurant, memorable, catchy and simple. For example, #eatatLittleBeet is working well for the Little Beet’s co-owner Andy Duddleston, who has seen his Instagram community swell to hundreds of engaged users in just a few months. “It’s an incredibly powerful tool, not to be missed to show the beauty of your food,” he shares.

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• At least once a day, look at your own Instagram feed, add specials, coupons and be sure to use the option to “location tag” all your photos with your restaurant’s address. Look for original content from your customers and ‘regram’ these third party photos into your Instagram stream, and follow the customer’s account. “Give customers credit for posting, tag them, and I guarantee they’ll be posting for you frequently,” says Zizmor. • Share and tell a story with your Instagram posts. Keep it brief, but use it to brand your restaurant. Think of it as a micro blog that enables you to tell the story of your restaurant in a visually compelling way. For instance, feature your chef, his experience, his food influences; post a bio of the owner, his family, a brief history of the restaurant and why he opened it. Emphasize the freshness of your ingredients by showing your food’s

journey from farmers' market to table, and describe everyone in the supply chain. Include food prep photos: “Just make sure staff is wearing gloves and everything looks very clean,” warns Zizmor. • When to post depends upon your community and their habits. For some foodservice establishments, it may be best to post before the store opens; for others it can be after the lunch rush or in the late evening. If an event happens in real-time that affects the operation of your restaurant, don’t wait, but post immediately e.g. a power outage has forced your kitchen to close until tomorrow. Or if you reach a professional milestone, share immediately with your community. “Capturing moments and sharing them will grow more comfortable over time,” assures Zizmor. • Connectivity matters. Invest in WiFi for your restaurant and make it easy for your customers to get online and post photos. If you choose to password protect your WiFi access, be sure it is easily discoverable by customers. Good phone reception is a must and accessible outlets would be a bonus. • Display signage that encourages people to share their photos. “It’s a sign of love when people post your food on Instagram; they’re genuinely happy to show their friends what they’ve discovered, whether it’s a comfort food indulgence or a healthy find,” says Zizmor. Keep promoting with vigor – use your menus, check-out

process, receipts, wait staff and website to spread the message about your social media presence. • Continue to listen, connect, share and engage, the four defining tenets of social media. “Look for people who mention your product and comment on your posts; follow them and others you want to connect with; share your knowledge and experience via posts; and actively engage others in the Instagram stream by commenting and starting conversations,” says Zizmor. • Signs of success, according to Zizmor, include growth of your follower community, an increase in comments and recommendations, and of course, the moment a new customer comes in the door and says they discovered your restaurant on Instagram. It can be done. Consider Applebee’s vaunted Instagram campaign, #fantographer, which boasts an army of more than 24,000 engaged followers who share pix of their favorite menu items, which are then posted on the company’s Instagram site. With over 770 images already amassed, the restaurant has enough visual content to last for months without ever needing to take their own photos. Zizmor’s not surprised. “In the world of social media, Instagram is where the love is, where people are curating and sharing their beautiful, golden moments. Instagram is where I live these days.” n

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 95

O P E R A T I O N S

Plate Accompli by Mindy Kolof

ick Bayless, Stephanie Izard, Homaro Cantu, Grant Achatz, Curtis Duffy…as the sparks that ignited Chicago’s extraordinary culinary boom, these names trip reverently off the tongue, with the relish reserved for a rare, vintage cognac or a particularly tender slice of Kobe beef. And of course, the late, great Charlie Trotter, whose bold experiments and inimitable style originally guaranteed Chicago a coveted seat at the national, and international, fine dining table. But let’s give credit where it’s due, and rarely recognized, to the Illinois Restaurant Association (IRA), a trade group that has worked tirelessly behind the scenes for the past hundred years. In 2014 there was a virtual storm of culinary success, leaving in its wake a new venue for a renowned global award celebration, a revitalized playing field for industry events and conferences, and a much expanded footprint as one of the world’s premier destinations for food tourism. Restaurant Inc chatted with the IRA’s leading players, President and CEO Sam Toia and Executive Vice President Mary Kay Bonoma, to learn how they put Chicago on the culinary map. Both have worked in the food industry for years, bolstered by experience in tourism and government relations, and like the gracious hosts they are, shared ways to replicate their success in other towns throughout Reinhart country.

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 97

O P E R A T I O N S

How did the Chicago culinary scene evolve into the powerhouse it is today?

How does the IRA support the kind of growth Chicago continues to experience?

SAM: We are so fortunate to be part of the whole "Food Network"

SAM: We’re here to promote, educate and advocate for our

and celebrity chef movement, and it started with the grandfather of all celebrity chefs, Charlie Trotter. He set the stage, and others came, and fed off the camaraderie and energy. And of course, Grant Achatz of Alinea put us in the international spotlight.

MARY KAY: It’s not competitive like you’d imagine. They’re actually incredibly supportive of each other in Chicago; they’re always willing to help out the new chef in town. That just continues to foster the growth of our industry.

What role did the mayor and the tourism association play in making this happen?

MARY KAY: Mayor Emanuel’s support is critical to the success of our industry. He is able to cut the red tape for operators looking to open a business. Integral to that is his vision for tourism, with a goal of 55 million visitors to Chicago by 2020. We are working closely with our tourism bureau, chamber of commerce, hotel and lodging association to help achieve that vision. Building a collaborative effort is the key. SAM: The fact is, food has become one of the primary drivers of tourism. Research shows that more than 40 percent of travelers look at a city’s restaurants first, and plan their meals out in advance. We have phenomenal restaurants in every neighborhood in our city, and we’re working to drive traffic to all 77 of them…to high profile places like Girl and the Goat on Restaurant Row and Purple Pig on Mag Mile, and beyond, to Logan Square, Rogers Park, Wicker Park, South Loop [site of the legendary Manny’s Deli], Chinatown, Little Italy, Andersonville, Pilsen [Latino-Mexican fare].

98 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

industry. Each of our segments is very different – neighborhood restaurants [Connie’s Pizza, Home Run Inn], iconic locations [Stefani’s, Gibson’s, Harry Caray’s], long-time chains, celebrity chefs, food trucks – and we work with each to make it as easy for them to do business here as possible.

MARY KAY: Our events put the spotlight on our incredible cuisine, and we continue to expand these each year. We started Chicago Gourmet in 2008 to highlight the city’s food and wine offerings on a national level. Now we are flying in Michelin star chefs from around the world to participate. Everything about it has grown tremendously, from sponsors to attendees to offerings [see sidebar]. Our ancillary events proved extremely popular in 2014, including a five-course tribute dinner to Charlie Trotter, and we’re planning to expand these in 2015: mark your calendars for September 25-27. The Taste of Chicago, held July 8-12, is a very different event that brings the city together and provides a showcase for our culinary diversity to a much wider audience. Almost a million people attend each summer.

And this May, you brought the James Beard Foundation Awards to Chicago for the first time ever, and their 25th anniversary, no less…wow! What is your secret?

SAM: Our combined forces – the chef community, Mayor’s Office, City Hall, Choose Chicago [tourism arm] and IRA – made it happen. The James Beard Foundation saw how much energy we were pouring into this, and each time we met with them and told them what we had going on here, we intrigued them more. In Chicago, we work together, and that really blew them away!

O P E R A T I O N S

MARY KAY: It’s really a testament to the talent here in Chicago. While they were open to a change of venue, we were competing with other major, well-known culinary destinations, and we were absolutely thrilled to be chosen. It’s a huge coup.

Can we tap into your deep knowledge for some predictions on what Chicago’s food scene will look like in 2015?

MARY KAY: Indian food is very hot right now, and will continue to come up strong, farm-to-table is huge, and food pairings guided by sommeliers and mixologists. Ramen is everywhere, the barbecue trend is not going away and neither is bacon – Bacon Fest sells out each year. The burger scene gets bigger and bigger; in fact, our Hamburger Hop, the kickoff event to Chicago Gourmet, which is a lighthearted competition among 15 chefs, sells out in days.

Any advice you can offer our readers on how to expand their circle of influence and get their area on the map?

MARY KAY: Restaurants are the cornerstones of our communities; a hot new restaurant can spark a turnaround in an otherwise dilapidated area. Behind the scenes of every central business district and covering the miles between them are the local chambers of commerce and convention and visitor bureaus [CVBs]. The local chambers provide networking opportunities for restaurateurs to engage with the professionals in their area, where the CVB is charged with bringing tourism and visitors into the area. When all partners are working together, neighborhood restaurants capitalize on exposure in their community and are able to boost their reach through traditional promotional outlets as well as social media. The free marketing tools that are available, such as Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, are great ways to get your messaging out to the up-and-coming generation who use nothing but social media. n

Building a Legend: Chicago Gourmet by the Numbers Started in 2008 by the Illinois Restaurant Association to celebrate Chicago’s rich culinary heritage, Chicago Gourmet has grown into one of the premier food and wine festivals in the country. Presented by Bon Appétit (since 2010) in conjunction with sponsor Southern Wine & Spirits of Illinois, the event attracts thousands of food and wine savvy attendees as well as world-renowned chefs, sommeliers, vintners, mixologists and brewmasters. Chicagoans and tourists from every corner of the globe are eating it up in record numbers, as evidenced by the astounding success of the 2014 event: 12,526 attendees 765 million impressions generated, the largest showing since the event’s inception

Over 45 sponsors and more than 165 wine, spirit, beer and gourmet food exhibitors from around the world provided samples on the Great Lawn of the city’s popular Millennium Park 200+ chefs and restaurants offered tastings in the 11 tasting pavilions, ranging from BBQ to seafood and global street food The Grand Cru event offered 400 attendees each day the opportunity to taste some of the finest wines in the world, as selected by the event’s Master Sommeliers as well as exquisite bites from both local and visiting James Beard Foundation – recognized chefs. For more information on the 2015 Chicago Gourmet, Sept. 25-27, visit www.chicagogourmet.org.

A total of $100,000 raised for charity, the most in Chicago Gourmet’s history

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 99

O P E R A T I O N S

Don’t Rest on Your Laurels... Roll Up Your Sleeves! There’s Work to be Done in 2015 by Mary Daggett

here’s an old saying that goes like this: “The road to hell is paved with good intentions.” It’s true that most of us face a new year with the very best intentions. Some of us even make a list of resolutions, and by the time Valentine’s Day approaches, that list is lining the birdcage. Procrastination is the enemy of progress. Let’s resolve to stamp out procrastination in 2015, and make it “the year of progress.” If you want your business to thrive and help ensure

100 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

your own happy new year, there’s work to be done. By all means, make that list, check it twice, then stick to it! Mark your calendar on the first day of each month to check on your progress. It can be deliciously satisfying to cross items off that list. Imagine your satisfaction when you can scribble “Mission Accomplished” across the page! However, beware of overambition. If your list is too daunting, you’ll set yourself up for failure. Be realistic so that you can accomplish it all or at least, most.

Where to start?

Marketing

Here’s a suggestion. Everyone has several boogeymen – mental or physical projects that they know they should tackle, but never seem to get around to for one reason or another. Remember, we’ve decided to stamp out procrastination in 2015. So, put those boogeymen at the top of the list. The momentum you’ll gather once these monkeys are off your back will help you tackle the next item.

Savvy operators develop a cohesive marketing plan and revise it to meet the changing times. Explore tactics that will deliver your message to your target demographic. Make sure your website is memorable, easy to navigate and contains appealing graphics and information. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and other sites are perfect conduits to reach Millennials, GenXers and even aging Baby Boomers.

Menu Review When people love a restaurant’s menu, they will travel many miles, pay a premium price and overlook the fact that the neighborhood isn’t exactly Park Avenue, just to enjoy their favorite dishes. In 2015, menu engineering should be at the top of the to-do list. Have you incorporated current trends and customer preferences? Now is the time to weed out the losers, freeing up valuable real estate on the page and in the cooler. While you can’t be everything to everyone, remember to address vegetarians, those with gluten intolerance and food allergies.

Keep Up Appearances Pretend you are a customer, and perform a critical assessment of the premises. Approach your front door, enter and walk through, inspecting all areas, every nook and cranny. Does this establishment look like a place where you’d be willing to spend some hard-earned money, or does it need sprucing up? Is it scrupulously clean? Jot down items as you go. A fresh coat of paint, a stunning bouquet of flowers or a special piece of art can work wonders.

TWEET LIKE

Server Training Review your server training program. Servers are your public ambassadors. Make sure they understand the customer’s expectations. Teach them the importance of being clean, friendly, attentive and knowledgeable about items on the menu. One rude or lazy server can drive a lot of business out the door.

These items are thought provokers, in no particular order, and some of them may not apply to your operation. But they are a good place to start. Make your own list, then prioritize. Decide which items should be done first, and which will give you the most bang for your buck. Capitalize on your strengths. Remember: 2015 is “The Year of Progress.” n

ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 101

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Future Events for Foodies Chocolate Fest

Oregon Convention Center Portland, OR 01/23/15-01/25/15

National Barbecue Assoc. Conference Sheraton Music City Hotel Nashville, TN 03/03/15-03/07/15

Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival Manhattan

National Fiery Foods & BBQ Expo

Coffee Fest Atlanta

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Foodservice Forum Annual Leadership Development Conference

Tunnel in Manhattan Manhattan, NY 01/25/15

Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA 02/06/15-02/08/15

Boston Wine Expo

Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center Boston, MA 02/14/15-02/15/15

Food Processing Expo

Sacramento Convention Center Sacramento, CA 02/18/15-02/19/15

Food Network South Beach Food & Wine Festival

Various locations in Miami Beach area Miami, FL 02/19/15-02/22/15

National Association of Food Equipment & and Manufacturers (NAFEM) Show Anaheim Convention Center Anaheim, CA 02/19/15-02/21/15

North America Pizza & Ice Cream Show Greater Columbus Convention Center Columbus, OH 02/22/15-02/23/15

102 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Sandia Resort and Casino Events Center Albuquerque, NM 03/06/15-03/08/15

Orlando World Center Marriott Orlando, FL 03/08/15-03/11/15

International Restaurant & Foodservice Show Javits Center NYC, NY 03/08/15-03/10/15

Midwest Foodservice Expo Wisconsin Center Milwaukee, WI 03/08/15-03/11/15

New England Food Show Boston Convention Center Boston, MA 03/15/15-03/17/15

Research Chefs Association Annual Conference and Culinology Expo New Orleans Morial Convention Center New Orleans, LA 03/24/15-03/27/15

Nightclub & Bar Conv. & Trade Show Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 03/30/15-04/01/15

REINHART FOOD SHOWS KNOXVILLE/JOHNSON CITY DIVISION

LA CROSSE DIVISION

NEW ORLEANS DIVISION

BOWLING GREEN DIVISION

Pontchartrain Center, Kenner, LA 3/11/15

Holiday Inn/Sloan Convention Center 4/20/15 - 4/21/15

MILWAUKEE DIVISION

SHAWANO DIVISION

Potawatomi Bingo & Casino, Milwaukee, WI 3/24/15

ShopKo Hall, Green Bay, WI 4/21/15

SPRINGFIELD DIVISION

SHREVEPORT DIVISION

LeConte Center, Pigeon Forge, TN 3/10/15 - 3/11/15

Ramada Oasis, Springfield MO 3/31/15

TWIN CITIES DIVISION

ABOUT

CEDAR RAPIDS DIVISION

Coralville Marriott, Coralville, IA 4/28/2015

EQU

AM!

Diamond Jacks Resort & Casino Bossier City, LA 4/16/15

River Center, St Paul, MN 3/24/15

La Crosse Center, La Crosse, WI 4/19/15 - 4/20/15

R T LEASE P

AT YOUR

Service COFFEE JUICE TEAS

Ask your Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information.

DETERGENTS, CLEANERS, DEGREASERS ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 103

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WINTER SNEAK PEEK

ith its Eastern European roots, Pittsburgh restaurant culture is flavored with homeland tastes. But in recent years, Steel City's food scene has gone way beyond old favorites to become a true culinary hot spot ripe for contemporary, upscale menus. As Team Reinhart visits the City of Bridges and its surrounding areas in West Virginia and Maryland, we'll make sure to get a taste of as much varying, flavor-filled cuisine as possible, bridging our own gap between Pittsburgh old and new.

Great Places in

If you’d like to contribute or be considered for content in the Spring issue or subsequent issues, email Team Reinhart at magazine@rfsdelivers.com.

PITTSBURGH THE PLACES LISTED ARE JUST A FEW WE HAVE OUR EYES ON FOR THE SPRING ISSUE:

Atria’s

Dee Jay’s BBQ Ribs & Grille

Angelo’s Restaurant

Atria’s offers a unique combination of traditional entrées and quality features. They’re committed to offering customers food at an affordable price, exceptional service and a friendly atmosphere. For over a half of a century, people have made Atria’s their very own neighborhood restaurant. Make sure to stop by often. Atria’s is always changing courses.

Customers from all over the U.S. visit Dee Jay’s to eat the delicious BBQ ribs and enjoy the ambiance of this tropical restaurant. Famous sports figures and celebrities can also be seen here, eating racks of fall-off-thebone BBQ Pork Ribs, Potato Skins covered with cheese and bacon bits, and delicious Homestyle Onion Ring Loaf.

Buon appetitio! Serving mouth-watering Italian food for 75 years, Angelo’s is a 2014 Winner of the Certificate of Excellence from TripAdvisor. Serving traditional Italian comfort that is redolent of garlic and good cheer, Angelo’s offers tons of choices for all tastes. And its signature gelato is distinctively different – in a delicious way.

To see more go to: www.atrias.com

To see more go to: www.deejaysribs.com

To see more go to: www.angelosrestaurant.com

Juniper Grill

Pamela’s Diner

Bartram House Bakery

Juniper Grill was established on the principles of creating a cozy, yet modern, atmosphere. The menu was developed from the idea of serving Cowboy Cuisine, a wide variety of American cuisine with a Southwest flair! The chefs prepare everything from scratch using only the best products available. Juniper Grill also majors in fresh-squeezed juice margaritas, sipping tequilas and craft beers.

Since 1980, Pamela’s Diner has boasted one of the best breakfasts in Pittsburgh. The Crepe Style Pancakes are famous in the region, and even President Obama has made multiple stops at the diner. With six Pittsburgh locations, Pamela’s Diner is a must-hit when you’re visiting Steel Town.

Bartram House Bakery is a premiere, full-service café and dessert bakery offering custom-made cakes. Built from scratch in 1976 and open seven days a week, Bartram serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and makes more than 100 different desserts daily. From fruity crepes to luscious bars to flaky pastries, this bakery is a dream to any lover of sweets.

Several Pennsylvania ocations

Several Pennsylvania locations

To see more go to: www.junipergrill.com 104 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

Weirton, WV

Several Pittsburgh locations

To see more go to: www.pamelasdiner.com

Washington, PA

Several Pennsylvania locations

To see more go to: www.bartramhousebakery.com

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No monthly fees; free templates and image/logo uploads

Scan code for a gallery of menus! ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 105

O P E R A T O R

I N D E X

The Aviary

Heaven on Seven

Prairie Grass Café

Chicago, IL www.theaviary.com [pg. 79]

Chicago, IL www.heavenonseven.com [pg. 25]

Northbrook, IL www.prairiegrasscafe.com [pg. 35]

Berghoff Restaurant Group

Hell’s Kitchen

Publican Quality Meats

Chicago, IL www.theberghoff.com [pg. 19]

Big Star Chicago, IL www.bigstarchicago.com [pg. 89]

Blackbird

Minneapolis, MN www.hellskitcheninc.com [pg. 15]

Chicago, IL www.publicanqualitymeats.com [pg. 89]

Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab

Ray’s Boathouse

Chicago, IL www.joes.net [pg. 76]

Kanela

Chicago, IL www.blackbirdrestaurant.com [pg. 89]

Multiple locations - Chicago, IL www.kanelabreakfastclub.com [pg. 27]

Buckhorn Restaurant Group

Seattle, WA www.rays.com [pg. 09]

Smith & Wollensky Restaurant Group Chicago, IL www.smithandwollensky.com [pg. 76]

Kendall’s Dining Room

Stanton Social

www.buckhornrestaurantgroup.datajump.com [pg. 75]

Chicago, IL www.kendall.edu [pg. 26]

New York, NY www.stantonsocial.com [pg. 08]

Canlis

The Kerryman

The Tavern

Seattle, WA www.canlis.com [pg. 89]

Chicago, IL www.thekerrymanchicago.com [pg. 28]

Tulsa, OK www.taverntulsa.com [pg. 09]

The Cubby Bear

Mia Figlia

Teddy’s Restaurant

Multiple locations - Chicago, IL www.cubbybear.com [pg. 24]

Chicago, IL www.miafigliarestaurant.com

Dive Bar

Nickelsville, VA [pg. 82]

[pg. 22]

Miller Baker

Three Aces

Sacramento, CA www.divebarsacramento.com [pg. 78]

Chicago, IL www.bakermillerchicago.com [pg. 32]

Chicago, IL www.threeaceschicago.com [pg. 20 & 41]

Etch Restaurant

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate

Toni Patisserie & Café

Nashville, TN www.etchrestaurant.com [pg. 15]

Chicago, IL www.hotchocolatechicago.com [pg. 21]

Farmhouse

Chicago, IL www.tonipatisserie.com [pg. 23]

Osteria Via Stato

Vie Restaurant

Multiple locations - Chicago, IL www.farmhousechicago.com [pg. 37]

Chicago, IL www.osteriaviastato.com [pg. 38]

Western Springs, IL www.vierestaurant.com [pg. 37]

Grays on Main

Perennial Virant

Ye Olde College Inn

Franklin, TN www.graysonmain.com [pg. 08]

Chicago, IL www.perennialchicago.com [pg. 38]

106 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

New Orleans, LA www.collegeinn1933.com [pg. 12]

A D V E R T I S E R

Phillips Foodservice™

Avocados from Mexico

phillipsfoodservice.com [pg. 03]

www.theamazingavocado.com [pg. 46-47]

Markon®

Wayne Farms™

www.markon.com [pg. 04]

www.waynefarms.com [pg. 91]

HighLiner Foods

Sugar Foods Corporation

www.highlinerfs.com [pg. 40]

www.sugarfoods.com [pg. 96]

I N D E X

Advertising Information:

For rates and media kit, contact Christin Doyle at cdoyle@rfsdelivers.com. When contacting our advertisers, please mention you saw their ads here. ©2015 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.

Over 5,000 gourmet and specialty products CHEESE CHOCOLATES

GOURMET AND IMPORTED SPECIALTIES Powered by

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888.543.7374 • rfsdelivers.com • tracsdirect.com gourmetfoodservicegrouprfs.com ISSUE 1, 2015 RFSDELIVERS.COM 107

RI_BODY_Issue1_2015_1.indd 107

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C O M M O D I T I E S

COMMODITIES TRACKING

LIVESTOCK

SOFTS

GRAINS

Keep your ear to the ground with commodity pricing, as it dictates food costs. Below are select prices to help readers keep track. Prices as of December 5, 2014.*

description

units

price

contract

CBOT Corn

USd/bu.

387.50

Mar 15

CBOT Wheat

USd/bu.

583.50

Mar 15

CBOT Oats

USd/bu.

310.25

Mar 15

CBOT Rough Rice

USD/cwt

12.06

Jan 15

CBOT Soybeans

USd/bu.

1,007.25

Jan 15

CBOT Soybean Meal

USD/st

355.90

Jan 15

CBOT Soybean Oil

USd/lb.

31.74

Jan 15

description

units

price

change

ICE Cocoa

USD/mt

2,895.00

Mar 15

ICE Coffee "C"

USd/lb.

181.00

Mar 15

ICE Sugar #11

USd/lb.

15.09

Mar 15

ICE Orange Juice Conc

USd/lb.

144.80

Jan 15

ICE Cotton #2

USd/lb.

60.78

Mar 15

description

units

price

change

CME Live Cattle

USd/lb.

166.98

Feb 15

CME Feeder Cattle

USd/lb.

235.95

Jan 15

CME Lean Hogs

USd/lb.

86.63

Feb 15

*SOURCE: Bloomberg.com

Is there a commodity youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to see on the chart? Email magazine@rfsdelivers.com with your suggestion.

108 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 1, 2015

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VOL

03,

ISSUE



WINTER

2015



$5.99

R E S TA U R A N T I N C

pg. 56

| the business of food | ISSUE 01: 2015

In Our Communities

Local Options

Beverage Section

Heartland’s Melting Pot Metropolis

Exploring Farm-to-Table

Create Your Vibrant Bar Scene

pg. 16

pg. 30

pg. 78