Restaurant Inc. Summer 2014 by Performance & Reinhart Foodservice Publications

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1: 2014 ISSUE 02

See page 89 for more information on our new MenuHUB!

Food Fight! Savour the Sweetness of

Desserts pg. 46

In Our Communities

Hop on the Appalachian Trail pg. 10

Growing Up

The Future of Produce pg. 67

Food & Beverage

The 1-2-3’s of Selling More Wine pg. 55

e Desire h t e s i a R PAN SEARED VEAL RIB CHOPS

For recipes & to learn more about Eagle Ridge Legacy 72 go to page 48/49. Contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant today or visit rfsdelivers.com. ©2014 Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C. • Eagle Ridge® Brand is a trademark licensed by Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C.

ALL YOU DESIRE AT THE CENTER OF THE PLATE.

r ESSENTIALS a B EVERYTHING FOR YOUR BAR IN ONE PLACE.

ers, n e p O Bottle ls, Trays… e Bar Tow

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ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 1

G U E S T

E D I T O R I A L

My Grand Analogy Instead of tossing a few banalities your way, I am inviting readership to an honest editorial to kick off the Summer Issue of our beloved magazine. Sure, this is a publication for the foodservice industry, full of the information you want, and pretty pictures that leave your mouth agape and tongue dangling for a taste. Anything less would be naïve reporting and gathering. That’s the expectation, set by the countless publications on the market. When you read a 100-page quarterly magazine, one I believe is superior quality to our peers, you may presume we have a bullpen stocked of writers, world-traveling photographers clicking away at every searing piece on a pan, and an editorial staff reading line-by-line for accuracies. The truth is: locked away in every page of this publication—every word, picture, graphic, font, and recipe—is the passion and soul of a small group of people. These individuals have been a family. Not as a tired cliché – but redefined as a team of people sharing a passion for an idea: help operators do business better. I love this family, and I don’t tell them enough – because I’ve asked for countless hours, long nights, quick turnarounds, too many favors, and mounds of advice. Eric, Jenn, Andrea, Drew, Pat, Mindy, Dan, Audarshia, Chef Jeff, Chef Paul, Chef D, Dave G, and many more – thank you.

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The reason I am pouring these emotions now is because, after deep reflection and experiences with our operators for the In Our Communities section, I realized that is what the independent restaurant operator is – a team or family pushing the boulder up the hill for one common goal. You bleed for your restaurant, and sacrifice more than just time and money. There’s a force grabbing you and saying – “We have to do this! And we have to be the best!” Consider us your compatriots in that regard. With my fifth trip across Reinhart country on the books, I’ve witnessed that passion (sometimes pain) of achieving a different level of quality and service. That’s all it is, right? Quality and service. We want to deliver quality products and show superior service – inviting others into the family to sit down, just like at Grandma’s house. Our friends in Appalachia taught me, as you’ll read. Please enjoy the Summer Issue and know we strive to guide like a lighthouse steering the ship through a turbulent industry. We promise to continue to deliver against that tenet. Read on,

Dave Salvi Copy Editor Restaurant Inc, The Business of Food

revisit the continent

Pork Ribeye Chop Oscar

It's a modern renaissance. Imaginative operators are reinterpreting the classics with pork and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Learn how pork brings a contemporary perspective to menus at PorkFoodservice.org and sign up for our e-newsletter, The 400. ÂŠ2014 National Pork Board, Des Moines, IA USA. This message funded by Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pork Producers and the Pork Checkoff.

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 3

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COVER FEATURED ARTICLES 10 In Our Communities Hop on the Appilachian Trail 46 Food Fight! Desserts 55 Food & Beverage The 1-2-3’s of Selling More Wine 67 Growing Up The Future of Produce

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert COPY EDITOR Dave Salvi

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ART DIRECTION & LEAD DESIGNER

08 Trending Now

Jenn Bushman DESIGNER Drew Frigo PHOTOGRAPHERS Dan Coha,

30 Feeding America

Brian Beaugureau, Jenn Bushman, Dave Salvi

One Meal at a Time...

ADVERTISING SALES

34 Loyalty Programs

Andrea Long

38 Choosing an Online Reservation System

ADVERTISING INFORMATION: For rates/media kit, contact Andrea Long at along@rfsdelivers.com.

72 King of the Superfoods: Kale Reigns

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS/WRITERS Min Casey, Derek Exline, Mary Daggett, Gwen Eder, Mindy Kolof, Gerry O'Brion, Dave Salvi, Audarshia

74 Hot Potato!

Cover Image | Dan Coha Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or magazine@rfsdelivers.com

photo by Dan Coha

Townsend

©2014 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered ISS U E 3 , 2 or 0 1otherwise) 4 R F S D of E Ltheir I V E respective R S . C O Mowners. 5

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TOC co n t in u e d 80 Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Liquid Gold?

BEVERAGE SECTION

86 Sustaining the Succulent Scallop

55 The 1-2-3's of Selling More Wine 61 Leinie's Summer Shandy Recipe for Seasonal Success 64 Farmers’ Market Fresh Cocktails

89 MenuHUB Options For the Season 92 Sustainable Containables Green Alternatives 94 Zero Percent A Food Waste Solution 96 Groovy Gadgets 98 Chef Trends 100 Calendar of Events Upcoming | Food Shows 102 Sneak Peek Great Places in the Twin Cities 103-105 Recipe Section 106 | 107 Operator Index | Ad Index 108 Commodities Tracking

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CONFIDENCE I N EVERY CASE .

Fresh produce is the cornerstone of any good menu. Markon First Crop, Ready-Set-Serve, and Markon Essentials fruit and vegetable products give you the versatility to create colorful, ﬂavor-packed recipes. Colorful, light, and delicious…these whimsical Champagne Berry Gelatin Shot desserts topped with fresh strawberries and blueberries are the perfect end to a summer meal. Be inspired at markon.com.

Join Markon’s online community today and enrich your knowledge and connections. Browse: markon.com Learn: mobile app Connect: social media ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 7

T R E N D I N G

N O W

what’s trending now? What should you be looking at? Do these ideas fit your operation? Instead of trying to answer a bunch of rhetorical questions, check out Reinhart’s Trending Now topics as your guide. You will see what we’ve noticed in the foodservice industry. Keeping your finger on the pulse is the only way to know what your customers' hearts are beating for. Source: Culinary Tides, Restaurant Business, Food Technology, Foodbeast.com, Food Channel, Culture Waves, Menu Trends, Culinary Tides, DataEssentials, Technomic, Restaurant Business & Food Genius

Smart vending machines offer suggestions on your next beverage purchase, make you a pizza in real time, or send out Wi-Fi signals.

Online ticketing systems enable diners to purchase their meal days or weeks before visiting the restaurant, eliminating food waste and the pain of no-shows.

Hottest Emerging Cuisines Nearly 50% of American consumers are willing to spend more on authentic ethnic and international foods.

Korean Barbecue features beef as in charred bulgogi (rib eye or sirloin) or kalbi (short ribs), served classicstyle. These are grilled tableside alongside vegetable leaves for wrapping, or increasingly, are seen on food trucks.

Almost half of America’s 32 million moms who say they always buy health foods/drinks for their kids are looking for a wider range of convenient options with nutrient and calorie levels tailored to children.

Deprivation-style diets are out, replaced with healthier foods that include whole grains, fiber and Vitamin D; protein is considered key to weight loss by 60% of consumers.

Turkish street food favorites include döner kebabs– made of meat, roasted on a vertical spit, shaved, and served in a pita or on lavash.

Breads appear in more flavors and forms; home baked bread, bread with flax seed, salted breads/ flavored breads, Bread as main course—bread salad, breaded meatballs and meatloaf, bread pudding, flatbread pizzas, etc.

Nuts are showing up in desserts, adding health benefits with a handful of walnuts, or a coating of pistachios.

Indulgent Eats

Cheese-Stuffed Doritos Milky Buns, combining donuts and ice cream in a melty fried pocket

Local Matters Chocolate Chip Cookie Cinnamon Rolls

According to Food Genius, there are actually no national culinary food trends. Restaurateurs and food companies are better served with specific data: market-by-market, state-by-state, and cuisine-by-cuisine.

Everything Bacon Burgers, using â&#x20AC;&#x153;an excess of bacon in every single aspect from the pure bacon patties to the onionsâ&#x20AC;?

Small-batch desserts have downsized into one-offs for sharing, just not with the whole table.

Classic cocktails, spicy flavors, and fresh seasonal fruit converge on cocktail and casual dining menus, seen in drinks such as the Paloma, Michelada, Limoncello, Gimlet and Mojito.

Ecoconsciousness brings living walls of plants and herbs, indoor planters and potted trees front and center at restaurants; interactive TV screen enable diners to connect in real time with growers and vintners whose products are on the menu.

Fernet, a bitter liquor from Argentina, has grown 175% on restaurant drink menus over the past four years.

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I INN OO UU RR C COOMMMMUUNNI IT TI IE ES S

Hop on the Appalachian Trail! Onward to the Great Smoky Mountains! As Team Reinhart traveled through the Smokies, we found an abundance of Southern hospitality, scenic drives, and a cornucopia of culinary options. Fried chicken, sweet tea, and barbeque dominate the Volunteer and Tar Heel states, yet don’t sell this area short. Described as “a way of life,” food plays a role as sustenance, culture, experience, and family – which means they expect it to be darn good. As we will discover together, the area's wonderful operators share wisdom, and common themes easily pop up when the Southern restaurateur (no matter the particular cuisine) speaks to success of the business. There is palpability to their commitment to Southern hospitality, great food, and genuine experiences with family and friends. Our heart-warming journey reminded Restaurant Inc why we have the best customers in the country. Hop on the Appalachian Trail with us, and enjoy a journey up and around the mountains – here we go!

by Dave Salvi

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Dollywood

Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

ucked in the mountains like a seemingly secret forest mirage, Dolly Parton’s Dollywood theme park charms tourists, volunteers and non alike, with sprinkles of Southern flare, eras long ago, and ride after ride for family enjoyment. With over 40 foodservice operations throughout Dollywood, Restaurant Inc thought it’d imperative to speak to Charley Layman, the park’s Senior Operations Manager. He’s the man tasked with running all full-service, fast food, quick-service, and concessions operations, feeding the many folks walking the “streets” of Dollywood. And with a resumé covering nearly every segment in the foodservice industry, there wasn’t a more appropriate fit for a multi-genred, multi-tiered operation like this iconic theme park.

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RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great food operation in a theme park? Charley Layman: We have a lot of variety and, unlike most theme parks, we spend a lot of time making the food fit the theme of the area. For example, Red’s Diner: it’s a 50s-style diner in the area of the park themed 50s. There we serve foods you’d typically expect in a 50s diner. Hamburgers, hot dogs, French fries, milkshakes, root beer floats – all the things that Dolly enjoyed when growing up in Sevier County. The inspiration was that the first place Dolly ever ate a hamburger was Red’s Diner.

RI: What’s your favorite dish throughout the whole park? CL: It would have to be the fried chicken. We do hand-breaded fried chicken at a few places. Primarily served at Aunt Granny’s All-You-CanEat Buffet. [Editor’s Note: Charley smiled and admitted to enjoying their fried chicken at least once a week]

"The inspiration behind Red’s Diner was that the first place Dolly ever ate a hamburger was called Red’s Diner."

photo by Dave Salvi

RI: What do you want every customer to experience at your food operations?

CL: Two things, really. We want them to have great food, and we want them to have great service. That’s something we really pride ourselves on. We are known for the quality of food, variety of food, and the friendliness of our staff.

RI: How do you like to handle complaints from the customer?

CL: We try to make personal contact, from the front line host to the cashiers to a busser in the dining room to our team leads. Our goal is to deal with any customer opportunity in the shop as it’s happening. If we get a call or letter after the fact, then the manager of that restaurant is required to call that person. Speak to that person, and see what we have to do to resolve it. Most of the time, it’s simply just having a conversation. People just want you to listen, and feel like you are going to take care of the problem.

RI: How do you handle the food industry’s nutrition trends?

CL: We’ve put a lot of time into that, and

developed a program called “Start Fresh.” It’s a program that all of our management and leadership teams, and some key front line hosts, will go through training. Been in place for a few seasons. We are very proud of that, and can now offer meals and a great dining experience to folks with allergies that maybe they can’t get in other places. I know once those folks dine with us, we have great repeat business from it. They are very impressed and blown away by the steps we’ve taken to ensure their safety. It’s becoming more and more prevalent. Many gluten-free. The thing we’re getting into as well is snack options; we have snack packs that address all the allergy needs. It’s in a self-contained kit available for purchase, no worry for cross-contamination. Also, we developed an ingredient book for the park.

RI: Do you see your food evolving?

CL: We try to get on board with trends and fads. Try what may be popular, what you see a lot at the major chains.

We’re constantly looking at trends. Mainly just a collaborative effort of the management teams [for inspiration], sit around and have brainstorm sessions. We have download meetings after every one of our festivals. Discuss what worked well, what didn’t work, what might work [in the future].

ith the chaotic nature of theme parks, essentially event management— Layman and his team keep the lines of communication open and provide not only food to the theme park named for the famed country star, but the same charm (and service) America fell in love with when Dolly stepped into the limelight in the 1960s.

o l d !awards, G s a d o Go er of a numb ack-

on ir b yed the od has w Dollywo n proudly displa wards for tA ma but Lay en Ticke and 2013. ld o G k c 2012 to-ba ® the won in , d o cars of o s F O e Best th y are towed b Tickets try, bes s Golden u . d e in in k az ar ay mag theme p ent Tod m e s u Am

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The Old Mill Restaurant Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

his powerhouse operation is more than just a restaurant – it’s part of a shopping center known as the The Old Mill Square! Initial success from a three-part ownership group in the early 90s catapulted this operation to become more of a mini town dropped in the middle of Pigeon Forge, amidst the shows, theatres, attractions, go-carts, museums, mini golf centers, and tours (aptly named Parkway). Then there's a candy store, creamery, pottery center, and soon-to-be opened moonshine facility. The Sqaures anchor, the restaurant, stands proudly on the Little Pigeon River.

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great restaurant operation?

From chicken and dumplings to fried chicken to countrythick bacon and cornmeal, this old school edifice delivers tried-and-true Southern comfort food with big portions for healthy eaters. And they keep coming, because the tastes are too tantalizing to pass up when visiting or driving the Parkway of Pigeon Forge.

RI: What’s your favorite dish on the menu?

We spoke with Laurie Faulkner, marketing manager of the community staple, for her insights on becoming a "town" icon. 14 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Laurie Faulkner: When we bought the Old Mill, the restaurant opened as the Corn Flour Restaurant, we tied the two from a marketing standpoint. This is one of the oldest operating mills in the country – 1830. [The mill] generated electricity for the town. You can’t get more history than right here. Being in our location, in the middle of the Smoky Mountains, using and capitalizing on the historical mill and branding and theming something unique. Local. Tied to our roots of the area. Capitalizing on the fact that a lot of the products used [in the restaurant] are made next door. [Editor's Note: Old Mill grinds corn and buckwheat, stone ground, water powered]

LF: Oh, gosh…Chicken and dumplings! [Editor’s Note: This writer enjoyed the chicken and dumplings for lunch]

RI: What’s the ideal customer experience for Old Mill patrons? LF: Good, wholesome, family-oriented environment. I want them to come as friends and leave as family. They are going to be full! Come hungry, as I tell everyone who comes here, I tell them to “come hungry.”

"We haven’t had a lot of turnover, and some of the team is still from the original 1991 team. We are part of a bigger family, and that provides the consistency we need."

www.old-mill.com

RI: Describe your concept in one sentence, if you can.

LF: Turn off the Parkway and come 180 years in the past. It is another tourist destination, another quaint little spot.

RI: How do you handle customer complaints? LF: We want to take care of the customer. The customer’s always right, so we’re going to take care of them. We handle every complaint. We pay attention to every [complaint]. We like to get to that customer. And we don’t have a lot of complaints, but when we do, we want to take care of them right away. Word of mouth is the No. 1 advertising.

RI: What marketing activities do you do? LF: Local advertising. Billboards for special occasions and events. Word of mouth! And repeat business, as I think it’s the most important thing we can do. We value our locals and our tourists. We don’t overlook the locals, including church advertising for discounts.

[Editor’s Note: Old Mill Restaurant has received several mentions in Southern Living® magazine.]

neighbors at Dollywood really focus on true Appalachian heritage, and they do such a wonderful job. They are such wonderful neighbors!

RI: How did this restaurant become a destination instead of just another spot on the highway?

LF: Location is very pretty, our setting on the water. The historic district here – where the old mill is. It’s the most photographed mill in the country. There are not many restaurants tied to a situation like that. The most important thing: we’ve tried to differentiate who we are from the rest of the area with quality. We’re focused on what we are doing, not focused on what everyone else is doing. Our quality, our meats are USDA Choice, grind our own hamburger meats, peel our own potatoes [PEEL EVERY ONE!], 700 pecan pies served daily, and baking them from scratch – daily. Everything that we can make from scratch, we do.

RI: What does food mean to the culture in this area?

LF: That is part of our brand. As we’ve evolved, the heritage is part of it. And our

RI: Parting thoughts? LF: The team here equals our success. We haven’t had a lot of turnover, and some of them are still from the original 1991 team. We are part of a bigger family, and that provides the consistency we need.

Old Forge Distillery Using the grains ground right next door, the Old Mill ownership is opening a distillery adjacent to the Restaurant (another addition to the Pigeon Forge “subdivision”). Going back to the history of farmers using excess grains to make whiskey, the addition just makes sense. As Faulkner explains, “Not branding as a ‘backwoods illegal operation,’ but a true craft small-batch distillery.”

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photo by Dave Salvi

Applewood® Farmhouse Restaurant & Farmhouse Grill Sevierville, Tennessee

ositioned on the slope of a mountain and abutting the Little Pigeon River, Applewood Farmhouse’s two adjacent restaurants serve up traditional country food, but Chef Roman Campbell brings a wider perspective to his menu.

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great restaurant operation?

On top of the two restaurants, Applewood runs an “everything apple” store (not dissimilar from our friends at the Apple Holler in Sturtevant, Wisconsin – Restaurant Inc, Volume 1: Issue 1), a creamery, and apple winery in their pseudo-town by the orchards.

and see our ratings. That’s what we’re known for, Southern hospitality and our service. We have a great staff – most of them have been here for 20-plus years. That’s bragging rights within itself. People love the atmosphere when they come here.

To understand the scope of their robust operation, both operationally and culinarily, Restaurant Inc spoke to Director of Operations Trevor Townsend, Director of Sales & Marketing Amanda Mathas, and Executive Chef Roman Campbell.

Trevor Townsend: Good food, good employees. You get good food by using good ingredients. Train your people how to execute recipes, and pay attention to detail.

Amanda Mathas: Customer service. You can look on TripAdvisor® or Yelp®

Chef Roman Campbell: It’s a balance between what’s coming, what’s trending, what’s green, and having the new ingredients. We also have to hold tradition – as a family-owned restaurant that has been doing things for 25 years. And try to address the younger crowd.

RI: What defines “Southern Hospitality?” TT: That’s easy. It’s the way we talk! People love the way we talk. That Southern twang to it. [Editor’s Note: Trevor accentuated his Southern accent for this answer.]

A balance between what’s coming, what’s trending, what’s green, and having the new ingredients.

www.applewoodfarmhouserestaurant.com

RC: I was going to say it is heart. When

RC: All over. We find inspiration from fine

RI: How do you handle the food industry’s

people here say “Southern Hospitality,” it’s more than just saying [a phrase]. It’s the heart behind. You can tell when someone is being fake or genuine.

dining restaurants and hole-in-the-walls. We travel with the company, even locally. Our owner is really big into that, asking us to check places out. One of the new items coming on the menu is Tomato Pie. We got that idea from Atlanta at Mary Mac’s. It just sounded interesting, and the idea could work on our menu. It’s Southern, people know it, and we ran with it. We made three or four different versions – nailed one and everyone loves it.

nutrition trends?

RI: What’s your favorite dish on the menu? AM: Fried chicken. TT: Catfish. RC:My favorite currently? Because my changes every week—right now, it’s the Apple Valley Orchard salad. [Editor’s Note: Although this may not be Chef’s favorite item as you read this, their menu describes the salad as “Crisp Greens Served with Grilled Chicken, Fresh Apples, Dried Cranberries, Oranges, Red Onions and crumbled Bleu Cheese. Served with Our Own Apple Vinaigrette.”]

RI: What is the ideal Applewood customer experience?

AM: We want it to be the best Southern cooking they’ve had.

TT: We want them to feel like they just got up

RI: Chef, where do you find inspiration for

from the table at Mom’s house, or Granny’s house. That’s what you want, that Southern or old-timey feel. We want them to be taken back in time, to a more peaceful time.

your dishes?

RC: We sell Southern food and friendly hospitality.

RC: Everything you see here [trends] with nutritional change has been prevalent on the West Coast. We’re just a little slower; behind the times. I have kids with allergies, and understand this very well. I took about 8 months to compile the information, and put together soy, dairy, wheat, egg, shellfish, nut, and peanut menus. It’s very extensive. I was receiving three or four emails a week asking about allergies. The [speciality] menus that we produced show what you can have, not what you can’t have. If you have an egg allergy, you can have everything on [the Egg-allergy menu], or a wheat allergy, you can have everything on [the Wheat-allergy menu], et cetera. [Editor’s Note: This is the first Restaurant Inc has seen, and may be a model for addressing allergies and food sensitivities with customers. Contact us, and we can show you what Applewood Farmhouse shared with us!]

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photo by Dave Salvi

TT: Chef approached this from a positive standpoint, instead of

RI: How do you see food evolving in this area?

negative. It’s been great.

TT: I hope it doesn’t change much!

RI: How do you handle customer complaints? RC: When we research complaints, a high percentage of the customers are right. There was an issue. Something happened that morning, or in preparation. We use it as a training opportunity and want to fix it.

TT: As soon as we find out what it is, we immediately dig in and communicate the issue to everyone—together we find the answer at the end of the day.

RI: What role does food play in the Appalachian culture? RC: The food is a time to spend together, and a way of life, more than other places. Here, cornbread came to life because everyone had corn in the fields. There’s much more heritage here. You can really tell that. It’s a way of life.

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RC: Oh, it’s changing. There’s some older folks that may not embrace change. Things are changing, things are coming. There are healthier requirements people have and especially with the awareness. The blend of ingredients, the GMOs, and mass amount of need. People will need to be greener, think about the environment, stop using Styrofoam, recycle, conserve water—things done in other places for the right reasons.

AM: I see a good blend, of what people are used to here and the health-conscious people. Both sides of the spectrum will be covered.

RI: Any ingredients you love using right now? RC: For me, I love dried cranberries. It’s my favorite ingredient at the restaurant. Also, the green onion is one of my favorite ingredients we added here. And thyme, fresh thyme.

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Ridgewood Barbecue Elizabethton, Tennessee

his roadside barbecue landmark is on to its third generation with Lisa (Proffitt) Peters now at the helm. She’s tasked with sustaining the famed recipes passed through the lineage (shared with no one else!) after her father, uncle, and grandparents entrusted her with the business. Surrounded by a fury of trees, Ridgewood Barbecue cuts a hole into the mountain, along with the road, and isolates visitors to their gravel parking lot and sweet smoky smells of barbecue. Committed to the tradition, Peters makes Tennessee barbecue to a “T” and utilizes delicious sauces like a bleu cheese dressing (perfect with the fries!) to complement her sizeable barbecue pork options. Restaurant Inc arrived shortly before lunchtime, and my, did it fill up quick!

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great restaurant operation? Lisa Peters: Mainly, keeping the quality of your food, and every time a customer comes in here, they have the same experience with the quality of our food. I try to maintain, as the third generation, what my grandparents did, and my uncle when he ran it. Same recipes through the generations.

RI: What do you love most about running a restaurant? LP: Carrying on something that my grandparents started, hearing about how much people love the food, and the customer’s happiness. RI: What’s your favorite dish at Ridgewood? LP: Barbecue pork sandwich! [Editor’s Note: Lisa answered swiftly!]

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photo by Dave Salvi

RI: What makes Tennessee barbecue? LP: Super smoked, and we only use hams. We don’t have brisket here. All meats are hickory smoked in the pit, never with gas. Our signature sauce is more ketchup-based and more spicy and sweet. Ridgewood smokes our meats for six to eight hours. RI: What’s the ideal Ridgewood customer experience? LP: This is a small building, seating only 100 people, and we deal with lines, but people keep waiting. And word-ofmouth marketing mostly helps. RI: How do you handle the food industry’s nutrition trends?

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LP: We use rice oil instead of vegetable oil, and that’s gluten-free and allergyfree. Doesn’t absorb into the food, and cooks faster. Although it costs more, it’s a more efficient product. I see this becoming the next big thing. RI: What’s your favorite type of barbecue of all the different types (Tennessee, Texas, Carolinas, Kansas City)? LP: I really like Texas because it’s like ours, tomato-based, and they have pulled pork. I love having pulled pork sandwiches when on vacation! RI: How does barbecue play in the Volunteer State’s culture?

LP: It’s very big, with all those competitions. But I have so much here, I can’t handle more than that! RI: Do you see barbecue evolving at all? LP: I want to keep it the same. I’m thinking about adding ribs, but will need to add more to our kitchen. People love barbecue ribs, and we don’t have the capacity at the moment. I’m sure that is something for our future.

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photo by Dave Salvi

Dan’l Boone Inn Boone, North Carolina

anaging Partner Jeff Shellman knows what he has with Dan’l Boone Inn, seated in a mountain valley near Appalachian State University. What one could describe as a mountainous paradise, this college town sees influxes of people with football games, but this former hospital structure serves up more than an All-YouCan-Eat to locals. Dan’l Boone delivers on the family wholesomeness sometimes lost in our perpetually moving culture.

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great restaurant operation? Jeff Shellman: One is the unique way that we serve, and there are other family-style restaurants, but they are few and far between. The type of meal that we serve – homestyle that you would eat at Grandma’s house. We pass the bowls around just as you would with your family. We are very family-oriented, don’t serve alcohol. Dan’l Boone appeals to families on vacation as well.

RI: With a university nearby, how do you capitalize on that traffic opportunity?

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"The type of meal that we serve – homestyle that you would eat at Grandma’s house. We pass the bowls around just as you would with your family."

JS: Our meal is a little more than a typical college student would spend on one meal, so we do a lot of carry-out with them. When parents come into town, we see the students then. Graduation will bring in a lot of students, and home football games benefit us as well.

pudding recipe. Pudding is made 100% from scratch, as are the vanilla wafers. Everything in it is made here. That’s how we look at changing it. We’ve changed, but customers miss what we’ve had before, and expect the same thing every time. It’s what they want.

RI: How do you incorporate the

RI: What role does food play in the

history of your operation?

Appalachian culture?

JS: We have changed very little in

JS: I think the way we serve—so

54 years. Our menu is somewhat the same. We’re not on the National Register of Historic Places yet, but this [building] was the first hospital in Boone. There is a lot of historic significance to this location.

few families sit down to a meal on a consistent basis. That is part of our culture we used to have, and people still enjoy that. We don’t do it as often as we should, and I believe that is part of our draw.

RI: How do you handle the food

RI: What’s your favorite dish here?

industry’s nutrition trends?

JS: Country ham biscuits. I’m a

JS: We are a little stubborn

huge country ham biscuits fan! We get ours from a local supplier, and it’s special.

because we’ve always done it the same way. Take the gluten-free; we serve a lot of breaded items. We haven’t really tackled that yet. When we look to do new menu items, we look to create items 100% in-house. Right now, we are experimenting with a bread

22 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

RI: How do you market your restaurant?

JS: Locals know we are here, so there's not much we do for them.

We market in hotels hard for tourists. Not much else beyond that.

RI: How do you manage food costs?

JS: With our serving style, we have food waste built into our dishes. With our portions, we want it to look presentable, and we don’t measure out four servings. Our customers see the bowl as it should for four, and there’s inherent waste. We just got this new POS system, and servers are putting in items that they are refilling so we know where our extra portions are going and what items are never being refilled. Maybe we are over portioning items. Dan’l Boone runs a little higher on food costs. We try to manage food waste as best we can, and will with this system.

OUR

COMMUNITIES

Pop’s Restaurant Kingsport, Tennessee

years ago, mild-mannered and humble Clayton “Pop” Powers ran his restaurant with his two bare hands, adding two people as help to bus tables and clean dishes. Just three people back then, and he had to practically do it all. Now, the 80-seat restaurant enjoys waiting lists on weekends, traditions like the Friday Fish Fry, and an aggressive Pop seeking new ways to keep the menu updated and customers happy.

folks better not casually stroll in to the busy Pop’s in the mornings – they are “known for their breakfast.” With the “try anything” mentality, Pop and his son Randy keep the restaurant cooking with tenured employees, loyal customers, and consistency the Southern people expect – like cornbread and soup beans. [Editor’s Note: Soup beans…we had no idea what they were talking about! But darnit, they look good!]

This breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot sits on the John Dennis Highway, and transient

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 23

OUR

COMMUNITIES

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a

RI: What is the ideal Pop’s

RI: What drives the most business?

great restaurant operation?

Restaurant customer experience?

Pop: Friday Night Fish Fry is a big

Pop Powers: We try to do quality

Randy Powers: We’re like the family.

draw. We’re pretty big on breakfast.

food, and good service. I think

I think we’re the epitome of a family

Special weekends. Lunch, you

restaurant. From kids to adults

never know about lunch, can have a

to older people, we have people

waiting list, or you never know.

that’s the main reason we are here. I want to think we’re good to our people and they stay with us. We have two people that have

that know us well and vice versa. Servers will know what to order for

RI: I’m here for breakfast, what do I

[regulars] – having a relationship.

have to have?

with us. We don’t have a lot

We developed a feedback system of

RP: Our homemade biscuits and

of turnover, but we have main

comment cards.

gravy!

people. And keeping those people

Pop: If we receive a complaint,

keep consistency.

we’ll call him. We want to take

RI: What’s an ingredient you’re

care of it right away.

obsessed with right now?

been with us since we opened. Cooks with 17 years' experience

"We’re like the family. I think we’re the epitome of a family restaurant. From kids to adults to older people, we have people that know us well and vice versa." 24 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

"I’ve always got something on my mind. I’m always onto the next menu item. I’m willing to try something. If it sells, good."

looking at new items, if it’s not

kid, there was nothing to do but go

from this area, if it’s not Southern,

out and eat.

I have to be creative with labeling and item titles. Our culture may not understand it, even if it’s good, and Pop: I’ve always got something on my mind (laughing). I can’t really

won’t try it. But if you put it in a way they feel comfort, they’ll try.

answer that. I’m always onto the

Pop: We eat at a lot of different

next menu item. I’m willing to try

restaurants, lot of different ideas,

something. If it sells, good.

different areas. Gather recipes from other restaurateurs. Off the

RI: How often do you change the menu? What’s your inspiration?

RP: One big change once a year. We run specials every week. And we use our televisions to advertise our special items. That’s made a big difference for us. And when we’re

computer, magazines, and we’ll try some different things. I’ll read any magazine about restaurants.

RI: What’s the most challenging thing in 18 years of running a restaurant? Pop: Quality. Making sure things are done our way. It is a challenge because it doesn’t always happen that way. When the recession hit, I was looking to upgrade, not cut. I knew we needed to keep that quality up. New chairs, TVs, items around the restaurant. Won’t cut quality.

RI: What role does food play in the Appalachian culture?

RP: It is the culture! (laughing) As a ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 25

OUR

COMMUNITIES

photo by Dave Salvi

The Firehouse BBQ Johnson City, Tennessee

years ago, a younger Tom Seaton joined forces with a friend to start a small BBQ joint. Fast-forward: the admittedly wiser Seaton’s Zen-like disposition was forged throughout a journey of learning and experiences. Running the operation today with wife, Donna, and his two sons, Seaton likes what he’s established for patrons and employees. During the conversation, Seaton weaved people and character development into each of his successes, whether it’s the booming catering business, packed lunch and dinner crowds, the boatloads of regulars, or the necessary expansions to match demand. Seaton’s humility was in evidence as we discussed his Johnson City staple.

The restaurant’s converted firehouse reminds patrons of the past – but something else always reminds guests of the future: their staff members. As witnessed by this writer, most of the Firehouse BBQ staff has seen too few moons, but under Seaton’s guidance, you’d think these kids have been working the restaurant space for decades – and fine-dining quality service at that. The babyfaces were smiling, and they never failed an opportunity to help a customer. Oh, have we talked about food yet? Seaton describes his BBQ as a hybrid – this calculated operation dabbles (successfully) in Northeastern Tennessee and Carolina BBQ. Needless to say, Restaurant Inc enjoyed a bountiful lunch experience.

"People come in and fit this culture. Culture is everything."

www.thefirehouse.com

RESTAURANT INC: What makes a great restaurant operation? Tom Seaton: Great people. If you don’t have the great people, you can’t deliver the great food and service. RI: How do you find great people? TS: These days, they seek us out. Our greatest hires come from the people who already work here. We’ve been here 34 years. We’ve been through the school of hard knocks on who to hire, and hit our stride on that. We have great people who love to be here and are just good kids. Main thing is to hire for character and values first. Firehouse’s decision-making process for people is looking for character, commitment, and confidence. We have good experience in our key people and leaders, but our frontline staff doesn’t have a lot of restaurant experience. Of the 80 people we

employ, 80% of them are 16–24 years old. And we like it that way. Much lower turnover than most. People come in and fit this culture. Culture is everything. RI: How would an employee describe the culture at The Firehouse BBQ? TS: They really enjoy the people that they work with, and learned a lot while they were here. We aspire to do more than train them for the restaurant business. Most of them are headed somewhere beyond here. Our goal is not to find, attract, and trap talent here – it is to find and train talent until someone is headed somewhere else. Our college students here are going beyond this. We want to add value to them. When staff feels that and senses that, they desire to do their jobs well. That took a long time to figure out. We do a lot of leadership

development, both here and away – we do leadership conferences off-site. [Editor’s Note: With a smile, Tom looked over to a library of books in his office. The man is always seeking to get better.] RI: What is Tennessee barbecue? TS: The important question is: What is Northeast Tennessee barbecue? Because it is very different from each edge of the state. We have a Carolina-style, as well as a Northeast Tennessee-style. Most people would say: hickory-smoked, thin-sliced pork. To that, we sell a lot of Carolina pulled pork, since we’re [30 minutes] to Carolina. Also, we sell baby back ribs, a lot of baby back ribs. RI: How do you handle the food industry’s nutrition trends?

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 27

OUR

COMMUNITIES

"Great people. If you don’t have the great people, you can’t deliver the great food and service."

TS: Listen to your guest. What are they saying? We’ve utilized a few ways to gather that feedback, such as comment cards – and we get a lot back. That’s monitored closely. All of our guys in the kitchen have new ideas, and we’ve developed a process for new ideas for collaboration. We’ve had two new menus in the last 16 months, which is more than what we’ve done in the last five years. Kitchen Manager Aaron Fain and my older son Justin will come up with those ideas, like features and specials. Then those menu items will be evaluated. We test these items, and don’t just throw things on there. RI: How do you like to manage food costs? TS: We monitor our food costs very

closely. When barbecue is taking up 70 percent of your menu, and you’re not on top of that, you’re in trouble. Every barbecue batch is weighed going in, and we know the smoke yield, the sliced or pulled yield on that. Price of pork has gone up substantially. We need to know the price per pound. The right systems– and monitoring pricing, yields and portioning. But we want to make sure the guest expects the same thing every time. RI: What role does food play in the Appalachian culture? TS: From what we see with our guests, it’s a great thing to gather family and friends around. We get a lot of large groups. It’s a great gathering place.

RI: How do you become a destination in a market? TS: Give people a reason to drive by the “restaurant rows” and other popular areas. We are located in a spot that is a developing location. Used to be very isolated. We’re in the middle of downtown and the university. What fueled us – we need to give quality and service, and a reason to come here. Goes back to people. RI: What’s your favorite restaurant outside of The Firehouse? TS: What is my favorite place outside The Firehouse…give me some time to think about that. [Editor’s Note: Tom later shared "The Peninsula Grill in Charleston, South Carolina] n

"The important question is: What is Northeast Tennessee barbecue? Because it is very different from each edge of the state. We have a Carolina-style, as well as a Northeast Tennessee-style." 28 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Please join Matt at the 10th Annual Celebrity Shootâ&#x20AC;˘Out â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a unique, exclusive fundraising event where participants are given the opportunity to match their shooting skills against celebrity guests. The annual clay shooting tournament raises funds to benefit the Light Foundation, which helps put at-risk youth from across the country on a path to success through targeted programs and services.

Proceeds to Benefit the Light Foundation

Addieville East Farm / 200 Pheasant Drive / Mapleville, Rhode Island To discuss sponsorship opportunities, please contact Goodwin Group PR at mattlightshootout@gmail.com or (508) 404-1745 I S S Foundation! UE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 29 Visit: www.mattlightfoundation.org for more information about the Light

FEEDING AMERICA®:

One Meal at a Time… by Restaurant Inc Staff

49 million Americas are food insecure. 49 million. One in six people across the United States. Pardon the pontificating, but if that number can sink in for one second— manifesting the reality of a person not knowing where his or her next meal is coming from (although we are concerned with where we are delivering the next meal at which table)—how can you not want to help reduce such a number?

n comes Feeding America, leading hunger advocate and the country’s largest network of food banks (200 covering nearly every county), and Bob Aiken, CEO of the non-profit organization. The mission: Help end hunger in America.

host of hunger data, the USDA’s measure of “food insecurity” is a lack of access, at times, to enough food for an active, healthy life for all household members and limited or uncertain availability of nutritionally adequate foods.

“The purpose is so clear, and it’s about reaching out to other organizations for partnership to help us to fulfill our mission,” says the nearly 2-year tenured chief executive, who made the move from the secular food world after serving on the board of the Greater Food Depository of Chicago. He had a clear sense of Feeding America and a hunger for marching on with their mission.

“These are working poor people, families with children, and increasingly, senior citizens,” explains Aiken. Feeding America task themselves not only with raising awareness on the federal and local levels about these vulnerable groups, but also with generating meals within their network. Ignorance is certainly not bliss, especially when a meal’s average cost is $2.74.

The facts are clear to their organization: From 2006 to 2010, their “clients” (food insecure people) grew 46% in numbers, and they're not seeing any halt in the trend. Surprisingly, 90% of people served in the network are NOT homeless. As stated on Feeding America’s website along with a

30 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

“This is a solvable problem,” Aiken says. It’s simply a lack of access to food, and the food industry creates a bridge of access. Aiken adds, “Anyone in the food industry who understands the magnitude of hunger in America will get engaged.” He stresses that his former peers can be part

of the solution. Food banks try to help build connections in the food industry and particularly in the restaurant space – normally a less engaged sector, understandably so considering the hustle needed for a profitable operation. Described as a public-private partnership to ensure success, Feeding America is essentially distributing federal commodities. About 20% of their meals come from the federal government, and the other 80% is sourced from the private industry – donations (products) that are captured and “saved” from food waste bins.

Work With a Food Bank Near You Feeding America’s access to nearly every county (over 3,000 covered) reminds the foodservice space how close to home the meal gap is, but their network allows everyone to aid the effort. The network includes 60,000 pantries and soup kitchens, all receiving product and meals from one of the 200 food banks. Anything distributed, no matter the temperature needs, is properly warehoused, collected,

ME A G S R UMBE in

THE N

ns ntributio eals – o c s e r easu sed m erica m on mis ations and m li il A b g .5 in 8 Feed 3 saw gh don ls and 201 merica. Throu .2 billion mea , ls a e m 3 A t o u in li il n roup p al gap d one b e! d a o the me ion, Aiken’s g t oping t ir caus distribu e meal gap, h 014. Help the 2 th against tal of 4.2B) in o t meals ( of as hought ed and t y ll a r f cann ks gene od ban ass amount o ration. 55% o f h it W alte ram eeds an y, and ories fo deposit the thinking n produce, dair ution m d, trib dry goo eed comes fro a’s robust dis ltin ic r e e r mu of th ding Am del allows fo e g the e F . s mo nhancin e d , n protein s a ie s it d standar roduct capabil hey serve. p e r u eals t t a temper uality of the m q ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 31

BF O UO D S & I B EN V EE R AS G SE

and delivered within a strict set of compliance standards, and food banks operate under governance and food safety standards, all dictated by Feeding America. Aiken says the process is no different than a foodservice distributor delivering product to an operator. Aiken asks that all restaurateurs try to get involved, and Feeding America has made it easy. Donate excess food, volunteer at food banks, and find future employees – food bank volunteers learn back-of-house work as do new hires in your kitchen.

And the benefits have impact: n Stay relevant in your community and show that you care (hunger exists in every community!) n Less food waste, lending to a sustainability approach n Reinforce your restaurant’s culture – staff and patrons are excited and proud to donate to food banks n HELP

SOLVE HUNGER

If you want to participate, hop online and notify Feeding America via the website: www.feedingamerica.org.

Global issue, global player With 35 years of experience in food donation and hunger advocacy, Feeding America plays a consultancy role with the global food banking community. Although the hunger issues are much different in other parts of the world, Feeding America has lent experience, wisdom, and information that has accelerated the global food banking community’s learnings, and built models for success at a faster pace.

32 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

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Real

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ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 33

Loyalty Programs By Audarshia Townsend

My favorite nail salon gets my repeat business for a number of reasons, from the friendly faces greeting we upon arrival to the complimentary foot and back massages after services. But one of the most compelling reasons to return again and again is its loyalty program, which offers a free manicure on the 10th visit. For some, that little punch card might sound a bit trite, but others see it as a great perk that guarantees repeat business for the establishment. A similar model that includes VIP service and gift certificates has served Shaw’s® Crab House well, according to Steve LaHaie, the senior vice president of Shaw’s Division of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises® (LEYE). “The frequent diner program is about 20 percent of Shaw’s business,” says LaHaie about the Chicago-based seafood restaurant, which has a second location in Schaumburg, a northwest Chicago suburb. “This 34 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

past winter is a great example of how important this program is to Shaw’s and LEYE. Our frequent diners supported us all through the cold, snow, and inclement weather.” Shaw’s three-part loyalty program is one of LEYE’s major marketing initiatives, adds LaHaie, and it serves as a model for the restaurant industry. Customers may sign up for LEYE’s companywide “Frequent Diner Program,” which accepts new members each winter. The program works is that customers frequent the LEYE restaurant in which they signed

“This loyalty program encourages guests to be on our email list, which is one of

the best marketing tools because it is extremely targeted,” – LaHaie, Shaw’s® Crab House

V VIP ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 35

up. They earn points for each dollar spent and can redeem points as they accumulate. In 2004, Shaw’s launched the “Lunch Club,” comprised of 100 members recognizing the most loyal lunch diners. According to LaHaie,

members dine at the restaurant at least twice a month and have their names engraved on miniature plaques located on a board visible behind the host stand. The plaques are magnetic and can be taken down and placed on the

guest’s table. Some members want the nameplates on the table while others do not. Preferences are listed in special “VIP” profiles. “This has been a great way to give special attention to our most frequent guests,” says LaHaie. “

Success Stories From the Michelin®-starred and James Beard winner Spiaggia to the famed Wolfgang Puck’s Grand Café, Levy Restaurants showcases a small, yet mighty list of venues. For now, Levy’s loyalty cards are accepted at only eight of its restaurants in Chicago and Orlando, but customers may cash in on many benefits. Similar to the LEYE email rewards program, members receive a $25 gift card on their birthdays, and there is no charge to participate. They also receive a monthly newsletter keeping them up to date on events, discounts and more. For every dollar members spend, they accumulate a point. Those can be used to redeem a number of rewards, from a happy-hour celebration for up to seven friends (3,500 points) to a Disney family getaway (35,000 points).

Since 1999, Chipotle Mexican Grill® has been awarding “free burrito” coins to loyal customers. But unlike other programs, this hard-to-get item is a one-off for diners, according to the company. “It is a form of payment, so we throw it in our safe like the rest of the money,” according to a Chipotle spokesperson. “Then it gets passed along to the next deserving soul.” What’s even more elusive is the company’s “Farm Team” rewards program. It teaches members about sustainable and local farming, as well as other pressing issues concerning the food industry. Participants in the program have an opportunity to win free food, T-shirts and $200 catering orders. Farm Team, however, requires an invitation code, which is given at the store manager’s discretion. Because the program is open only to a select few, marketing costs are minimal.

36 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

North Carolina-inspired barbecue restaurant Brother Jimmy’s® also offers a VIP/loyalty program. Available in its multiple New York locations as well as in Miami and San Juan, Puerto Rico, the special card is gifted at the discretion of the corporate office and store management. Cards are typically given to recurrent VIP customers, vendors, and a number of favored companies. Perks include 25 percent off the check (for parties of four or less), priority seating at all store locations, and access to an exclusive VIP/concierge email line for priority response. There is no cost to the member for the card.

For $25, anybody can join The Palm Restaurant’s 837 Club, but they get a strong return with a $25 gift certificate toward a meal or happy-hour bar visit. With locations across the country as well as in London and Mexico, diners may easily rack up points to spend on a number of rewards. Member rewards range from The Palm Restaurant Cookbook (500 points) to a seven-day/ six-night trip for two to the Palm city of choice in North America (45,000 points) that includes accommodations, round-trip airfare, dinner at The Palm and a $500 American Express gift card. The restaurant entices members with exclusive events and promotions through a special newsletter.

MORE INFORMATION

Visit leye.com to find out more about Lettuce Entertain You.

Offer mobile phone redemption and a card that can be used to accumulate points or redeem rewards. Other guests ask what is required to get their names on the board, so the general manager and lunch maitre‘d determine who is on the list. We get suggestions from servers as well.”

“This loyalty program encourages guests to be on our email list, which is one of the best marketing tools because it is extremely targeted,” says LaHaie.

Diners may also enjoy perks if they sign up for Shaw’s email list rewards program. Upon signing, they receive a $25 gift certificate as well as an annual gift certificate for brunch to be redeemed within 30 days.

He adds that out of the three programs, the Lunch Club is the most cost efficient due to its exclusivity and lack of a marketing campaign. LEYE’s Frequent Diner Program, of course, is the most expensive.

“[It] incurs the most cost, but has the strongest results because of the large member base that grows each year,” says LaHaie. “The program has evolved over the years and now offers mobile phone redemption and a card that can be used to accumulate points or redeem rewards. In prior years, rewards were mailed paper certificates, which were even more expensive.” n

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 37

Choosing an Online Reservation System by Gerry O’Brion

he days of a guest picking up the phone to make a restaurant reservation are quickly coming to a close. Many restaurants are getting 60 to 80% of their reservations from their online reservation system. In 1998, OpenTable® changed everything by launching the first real-time reservation service. Since then, they have ballooned to servicing about 28,000 restaurants. But their service doesn’t come cheap, which has created opportunity for new competitors—such as SeatMe (from Yelp®), RestaurantConnect™, UReserv and RezKu™. So, how do you choose? If you’re already using OpenTable, should you switch? We scoured websites, and interviewed everyone from sales people to CEOs of the online reservation companies to get some answers. First we’ll list a few things to consider, and then we’ll profile each of the competitors along with some pros and cons. Ultimately you’ll want to narrow your choices to two or three companies and then have them demo their system for you. There’s nothing like seeing a system in action and asking the hard questions in person.

Some things to consider:

q WHERE DO YOUR

w HOW MUCH ARE YOU

CUSTOMERS COME FROM?

WILLING TO SPEND?

Many restaurant owners continue to use OpenTable because some customers search Open Table to find restaurants, driving new guests in their doors. But how many of these guests are actually incremental? If you are getting guests in the door on your own, you may not need Open Table.

There is a huge variance in costs for reservation systems. Depending on your configuration, a system can cost from $50 per month to over $1,000. If you’re getting lots of new guests for your $1,000, the investment can be worth it, but it’s important to run the numbers to be sure it’s a good spend.

38 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

e FOLLOW-UP MARKETING. One of the great things about an online reservation system is that you can collect customer information to give personalized service, get feedback, and send email marketing. Each system takes a slightly different approach. This can be a powerful tool to convert new guests to repeat customers, or current customers to frequent customers. Ask exactly how their marketing system works and who owns your data.

OpenTable COSTS q Setup fees: $0 to $1,200 depending on setup. (about $250 average)

They are the current 800-pound gorilla in online reservations. While they have 28,000 restaurant users, they are very expensive.

PROS q Claim they can bring new guests to your restaurant.

w Monthly fees: $199 to $449 per month.

CONS q Very expensive. You pay for set up, monthly fees, and a fee for every guest who is seated. w Must use their proprietary equipment (see below for their new web-based product).

e Per-reservation charge: $1 per seated person from OpenTable; $0.25 per seated person from your restaurant website or Facebook® page.

MORE INFO

e Must sign a contract with a fee for cancellation.

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below for more information on OpenTable.

www.opentable.com/opentable-restaurant-management-system

OpenTable – Guest Center

COSTS q Setup fees: $100 to $500. Tip – negotiate hard. They seem to be flexible on this setup fee. w Monthly fees: $250 per month. e Per-reservation charge: $1 per seated person from Open Table; $0.25 per seated person from your restaurant website or Facebook page.

OpenTable is clearly seeing a threat from new competitors. In 2013, OpenTable acquired RezBook (from Urbanspoon). It appears they are re-launching that technology as their own web-based reservation offering.

PROS q Possible incremental guests from the OpenTable website. w No proprietary equipment. Fully webbased.

CONS

MORE INFO

q Still very expensive and subject to the same per-person fees as the regular OpenTable system.

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below to download the OpenTable - Guest Center App. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/guest-center/id766049754?mt=8

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 39

SeatMe

SeatMe is of note because they are part of Yelp, which is a huge player in online restaurant reviews. While some restaurant owners find Yelp and their reviews frustrating at times, it’s hard to deny that consumers are using their reviews to choose restaurants.

COSTS q Setup fees: Free w Monthly fees: $99; or $50/month if you’re a Yelp customer e Per-reservation charge: Free

PROS q Yelp is a big player, with lots of customers visiting their site. By using SeatMe, a customer can book a reservation right from your Yelp profile. This is a big advantage for customers who are already there to evaluate restaurant choices.

CONS q Competitors say that SeatMe’s interface is basic and the functionality is limited. I’d encourage you to see a demo for yourself and compare to the other offerings.

w Less expensive than most alternatives.

MORE INFO

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below for more information on SeatMe.

e Email marketing built into the system. www.seatme.yelp.com

RestaurantConnect COSTS q Setup fees: Free w Monthly fees: $150; consider the Social Media module for an extra $50/ month. e Per-reservation charge: Free

RestaurantConnect’s offering is focused on allowing you to make more connections with your customers, making it easier for you to market to them yourself (read that…you don’t need OpenTable).

PROS q Automatically follows up with the guest after dining to get feedback.

CONS

MORE INFO

q Nothing stands out as a major con.

w Designed by restaurant owners, so systems know what you need.

e Built-in features make it easier to run your restaurant, such as VIP alerts, server rotation functionality, and loading a Facebook picture of your guest.

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below for more information on RestaurantConnect.

r Has an option for online reservations with no table management for just $50/month. software.restaurantconnect.com/

40 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Rezku

Rezku is a brand-new competitor that has taken a slightly different approach from the web-based competition. Rezku has developed a proprietary interface that is bigger, faster, and easier to use than a tablet system. It still resides in the cloud, but is a much more sophisticated front-of-house interface, allowing your staff to be more efficient.

COSTS

PROS

q Setup fees: $179 (remote) to $350 (on-premise) w Monthly fees: $300; add $80/month for text when table is ready e Per reservation charge: Free

q Bigger, faster, and more robust front-of-house interface than any competitor.

CONS

MORE INFO

q 3-year contract w Additional $80 fee for text when table is ready.

w Automatically follows up with the guest after dining to get feedback.

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below for more information on Rezku.

e Email marketing coming soon.

r Input from hundreds of restaurant owners during design of system.

t Includes an iPhone® and Android app for your restaurant. www.seatme.yelp.com

UReserv

UReserv is the cheapest competitor in the bunch, but still has a robust feature set.

COSTS q Setup fees: Free w Monthly fees: $60 e Per reservation chare: Free

PROS q Least expensive full-featured online reservation and table management system.

CONS

MORE INFO

q Nothing stands out as a major con.

w Can design system based on how you seat guests – “slots," “flex," or “cover count.”

e Two-way text confirmation – allows the guest to text back if they’re running late.

Scan the QR code above or go to the link below for more information on UReserv.

r Can be used as an iPad® wait-list kiosk. www.ureserv.com

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42 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

M A K E » B E T T E R - F O R -Y O U « E V E N

ll too often diners feel they have to choose good flavor or good health when eating out. But the truth is, they want both. And considering 64% of consumers are interested in seeing healthier menu items,1 a niche corner of the menu with “lighter options” isn’t enough to satisfy demand.

The secret to making good-for-you options better is packing dishes with nutrient-rich ingredients that crank

up savory flavor without adding unnecessary calories, carbs, fat and more. With countless ingredient combinations, sandwiches are a popular and easy way to provide a range of delicious + nutritious options. Think about using creative preparation methods and new ingredients that add flavor to dishes, rather than just taking things away to meet nutritional demands.

better whole grain BREAD

fresh

PRODUCE

Swap

t r a d i t i o n a l i t e m s f o r e q ua l ly f l avo r f u l , m o r e n u t r i t i o u s o p t i o n s . white bread

closed sandwich

e x t r a m e at

sof t drinks

w hole g r a i n

open - face sandwich

fresh produce

iced

for

tea

d i s c o v e r m o r e w ay s t o m a k e t h e s w a p at w w w . u f s . c o m / b e t t e r

y highlighting preparation methods like “fresh-made” or “grilled” and specific ingredient characteristics like “whole-grain” or “locally sourced” in menu descriptions, you can actually entice more orders. In fact, by simply

using the word “fresh” on the menu, more than half of consumers view that item as both healthier and tastier.2 How will you make good better on your menu? Whether it’s with better ingredients, preparation methods or portion sizes, a well-rounded offering that gives guests the options they want will result in happier, more loyal customers, and a healthier bottom line for your business.

THE number one

PROTEIN

a little mayo #

THE 1

CONDIMENT

With every refreshing sip of Lipton ® Fresh Brewed Black Iced Tea, patrons will also feel a sense of relief knowing it’s zero calorie, 100 % natural, and high in antioxidants that promote good health. ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 43

Q+A

GRILLED CHICKEN WRAP

» with « Cucumber Peach Salsa & Maple Mayo

OFTEN “HEALTHY” AND “FLAVORFUL” ARE SEPARATED IN PATRONS’ MINDS. HOW CAN OPERATORS MAKE HEALTHY MORE DESIRABLE? Position “healthy” as equally delicious—using romanced language like in other parts of the menu. “Healthy” translates to: great taste, fresh, more vegetables, right-size portions. It can be delicious, flavorful and healthful at the same time. It is really about giving people choices.

INGREDIENTS

.75 oz. Red onion, minced 1

Whole wheat tortilla, 8”

1.75 oz. Maple syrup

2 oz.

Grilled chicken, sliced

6.75 oz. Cucumber, diced

.35 oz. Cheddar cheese,

4.5 oz.

Fresh peaches, diced

.5 fl. oz. Lime juice, fresh .25 oz.

An open-faced sandwich, with less bread and more vegetables, can be beautifully prepared, healthy and delicious.

(1 SERVING)

Hellmann’s ® Light Mayonnaise

5 oz.

Jalapeño chili, minced

Grilling and roasting, as well as adding textures and taste profiles with fruits and vegetables, can add layers of flavor while taking back calories.

shredded

.35 oz. Carrot, grated .5 oz.

Lettuce, shredded

HOW DO YOU SEE BEVERAGES PLAYING A ROLE IN BUILDING HEALTHIER MENUS? Alternatives to soda—agua frescas, fruit teas or tea-based cocktails—are healthier options that sell.

DIRECTIONS 1.

WHAT ARE SOME TECHNIQUES YOU USE TO REDUCE THE CALORIE CONTENT OF MEALS WITHOUT COMPROMISING FLAVOR?

Prepare Maple Mayonnaise: Combine the Hellmann’s ® Light Mayonnaise and maple syrup in a small bowl. Mix well. Reserve refrigerated.

2 . Prepare the Cucumber Peach Salsa: Gently toss diced cucumber, diced peaches, lime juice, minced jalapeño chili and minced red onion together to create the salsa. Reserve refrigerated.

FOR OPERATORS LOOKING TO ADDRESS CONSUMER HEALTH CONCERNS, WHAT IS ONE MUST-DO TO BE SUCCESSFUL? Make it sound as good as it is. Don’t take away things, but give healthier options.

3 . To make wrap: On a whole wheat tortilla, smear one side with Maple Mayonnaise. In the middle of the tortilla, place grilled chicken, cheddar cheese, carrots, lettuce and salsa.

4 . To serve: Fold end of tortilla part way up the filling, and roll to create an open end. Serve immediately.

W W W.U F S.C O

M/ B E T T E R

M A S T E R

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One of only 67 Certified Master Chefs in the US, Chef Jilleba joined Unilever Food Solutions as Corporate Executive Chef for North America in 1999. He has held numerous executive chef positions in hotels and other fine dining establishments around the globe.

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Ginger-soy marinated chicken topped with crisp cucumber, carrots, Hellmann’s ® Light Mayonnaise and exotic spices makes an unforgettable sandwich on French baguette.

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Desserts FOOD FIGHT!

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

We’re getting sweet on you! With the weather heating our blueberry planet this summer, Restaurant Inc tasked our chefs with one simple message: get us some desserts! In the next few pages, readers will enjoy a bevy of traditional desserts with distinct twists – most specifically the use of the freshest berries of the summer – and we don’t mind which; all are in play. Just be sure you don’t accidentally take a fork to the page!

Join us in the kitchen as our Reinhart chefs – Chef Jeff Merry, Chef Paul Young, and Chef Demetrio Marquez – slip on their inner pastry chef for decadent delights. Enjoy!

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 47

Which recipe is your favorite? Submit your vo magazine@rfsde te to livers.com. The winner will be showcased in our 2014 Fall Issu e message from th with a special e winning chef! Fine print: One vote per person. Votes can only be submitted via email to the ab ove address. There are no pri zes attached to the contest – for the passion of food!

Deep South Blackberry Dumpling Cobbler FILLING INGREDIENTS

DUMPLING INGREDIENTS

1 Tbsp 4C Juice 1C 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

all purpose flour

1/4 C

granulated sugar

2 Tbsp

baking powder

Pinch

kosher salt

Pinch

nutmeg

1/4 C

cold butter, cut into cubes

butter blackberries, rinsed and drained half a lemon granulated sugar cornstarch cold water

r e

Approx. Cost: $1.06 Profit: $4.93

1/2 - 3/4 C buttermilk INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 400˚F. Generously butter an 8-inch cast iron skillet, or another heavy, oven-safe skillet. In a small container mix a slurry of cornstarch and cold water; set aside. In a large bowl combine blackberries with lemon and sugar. Add the slurry and gently stir. Transfer to the skillet, and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally for about 20 minutes. (If you wish to strain out the seeds, let mixture cool and press through a food mill or strainer. Return to the skillet and bring back up to a boil; reduce to low and proceed.) Meanwhile, for the dumplings, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and nutmeg. Using a pastry blender, cut in the butter until crumbly. Stir in just enough buttermilk to form a soft dough. Using a cookie scoop, portion the dumpling dough into the hot fruit, 9 dumplings around the outside of the skillet and 3 in the middle. Place into the hot oven and bake at 400˚F, for about 25 minutes, or until dumplings are golden brown. Serve warm, topped with ice cream, whipped cream, or a drizzle of plain heavy cream.

Recipe provided by Chef Demetrio Marquez | Reinhart New Orleans 48 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

$5.99

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes are approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

White Chocolate Mousse Tart with Raspberries & Forest Berry Sauce INGREDIENTS

Approx. Cost: $4.24 Profit: $3.75

$7.99

.25 oz

Pastry Mix, Dry, Mousse, White Chocolate

3 oz

Heavy Cream

1 Tbsp

Sugar

Tartelette, Sweet, 2.9"

1 x .5 pt

Fresh Raspberries

1 tsp

Powdered Sugar

1 oz

Sauce, Dessert, Forest Berry, Dreidoppel

INSTRUCTIONS Whip heavy cream and sugar to stiff peaks. Pipe white chocolate mousse in tart shell and cover with fresh raspberries. Finish with forest berry sauce and powdered sugar.

Recipe provided by Gourmet Food Group ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 49

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

Vermont Maple Syrup Cupcakes with Pig Candy Sprinkles INGREDIENTS

PIG CANDY

1# 4 oz 1 1/2 C 3/4 C

8 slices 1/4 C 1/4 tsp

Yellow Cake Mix Cool Water Maple Syrup

Bacon Brown Sugar Black Pepper

FROSTING 3 Tbsp 1/2 tsp 2 Tbsp 1 3/4 C

Maple Syrup Vanilla Extract Butter Powdered Sugar

INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 350˚F. Cupcakes: Combine cake mix, water and maple syrup and mix well. Pour batter into lined cupcake tin and bake for about 20 minutes. Pig Candy: In a zip-seal bag combine brown sugar and pepper, mix well. Add bacon and shake, coating bacon with sugar mixture. Place on baking rack and bake at 375˚F for about 15 minutes. Frosting: Combine butter, syrup, and vanilla. Blend, and slowly add sugar. Mix until smooth and creamy. Once cupcakes are cooled, frost. Finish: Cool, chop and sprinkle pig candy over frosted cupcakes.

Recipe provided by Chef Jeffrey Merry | Reinhart Boston 50 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Approx. Cost: $0.65 Profit: $5.30

$5.95

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes are approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

Which fraevcoipreiteis? your

te to Submit your vo s.com. er iv el sd rf magazine@ d in ill be showcase ial The winner w ec sp a ith w sue our 2014 Fall Is e winning chef! th om fr ge sa mes ly n. Votes can on e vote per perso Fine print: On above address. the to ail em via be submitted the contest zes attached to There are no pri d! foo of on â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for the passi

Huckleberry Parfait INGREDIENTS

Approx. Cost: $4.09 Profit: $5.86

3 oz

Huckleberry Coastal Wild

8 oz

Blackberry Whole, Individually Quick Frozen

5 Each

Cracker Graham Honey

1 Tbsp

Sugar Granulated Beet

10 oz

Heavy Cream

3 oz

Sugar Powdered Beet

1/2 Tbsp Salt Coarse Kosher

$9.95

INSTRUCTIONS Thaw the huckleberries and blackberries for the Mousse: Once the huckleberries are thawed, add the granulated sugar and salt and let them macerate for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Using a blender or food processor, blend the huckleberry mixture until smooth. In a separate bowl add the heavy cream and powdered sugar. Whip until stiff peaks form. Fold the huckleberry purĂŠe into the whipped cream. Crush the graham crackers. In a clear cup or wine glass layer the huckleberry mousse, blackberries and graham crackers two times a piece. Garnish with a blackberry and sprig of fresh mint.

Recipe provided by Chef Paul Young | Reinhart Milwaukee ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 51

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

w e

Flourless Chocolate Torte w/ Chocolate Ganache & Drunken Strawberries TORTE 4 oz 1/2 C 3/4 C 1/2 C 3 each 1 tsp

Semi Sweet Chocolate SilverBrook Butter Katy's Kitchen Sugar Cocoa Powder Eggs Vanilla Extract

DRUNKEN STRAWBERRIES 1 Qt Fresh Strawberries 1/4 cup Sugar 1 cup Grand Marnier

GANACHE 1 C Heavy Cream 2C Chocolate Chips INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 300Ë&#x161;F. Take 8" round cake pan, spray with vegetable spray and dust with cocoa powder. Melt butter and chocolate in double boiler: remove from heat and add sugar, cocoa powder, eggs, and vanilla. Mix and pour into prepped cake pan. Place on middle rack and bake for about 30 minutes. Remove, cool for 10-15 minutes. Remove from cake pan and place on cooling rack. Ganache: Place cream in microwave-safe bowl and heat. Combine chocolate chips and mix until smooth. Pour over cooled cake. Drunken Strawberries: Wash and quarter strawberries. Place in a bowl and coat with sugar. Add Grand Marnier and toss. Cover until service. Recipe provided by Chef Jeffrey Merry | Reinhart Boston 52 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Approx. Cost: $1.75 Profit: $6.20

$7.95

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes are approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

Hibiscus Flower With Lemon Chantilly, Fresh Blueberries & Rose Syrup INGREDIENTS

Approx. Cost: $3.15 Profit: $3.80

$6.95

Hibiscus Flower In Rose Syrup

2 oz

Heavy Cream

1 Tbsp

Sugar

0.25

Lemon Juice and Zest

1.5 oz

Fresh Blueberries

1 tsp

Powdered Sugar

1 oz

Rose Syrup

INSTRUCTIONS Whip heavy cream to stiff peaks; then fold in lemon juice and zest. Drain hibiscus flower and reserve the syrup for plating. Pipe half of the whipped cream into each flower. Plate up with fresh berries tossed in the rose syrup and finish with powdered sugar.

Recipe provided by Gourmet Food Group ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 53

MARASCHINO CHERRIES

The Perfect Finishing Touch The delightful flavor and signature crunch of Bountiful Harvest™ Maraschino Cherries ensures that any dessert with a “cherry on top” is something truly special! Bountiful Harvest Maraschino Cherries are: • Hand-picked at the peak of ripeness in the Pacific Nor thwest • Pasteurized for freshness • Best-in-class food safety • Available with and without stems • Packaged for maximum protection

Contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information. 54 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

1-2-3

F O O D

the 's of Selling More

B E V E R A G E

by Min Casey

This is the golden age of wine in the U.S., and restaurants are ideally positioned to benefit from consumers’ growing interest in the grape. Brushing up on the basics can help bring extra buzz to the process and the profits.

ressed into each bottle of wine, like so many little

insists that, for all the mystique that swirls around the

precious pearls, is the juice of 700 to 800 grapes,

topic, building a successful wine program is simple and

a complex mingling that marries agriculture and

straightforward. “No matter what type of restaurant,

the alchemic science of fermentation with the high art

it all comes down to three things,” he says.

of wine making. The viticultural path from vine to vat to

selection. Two, pricing. And three, service. They all

bottle is a long one, but what happens next is the part

matter and have equal weight in the equation.”

that asks for the most devoted attention of restaurant operators. Getting wine off the menu and onto guests’ tables can be complicated, but those who manage it are rewarded with the satisfaction of serving guests well and also – of no small merit – the favorable food costs that a wine program can deliver.

“One,

Even distilled to a three-step process, wine can be a little intimidating, not just to guests but also to restaurateurs who buy, sell, and serve it. To help crush the ice and stir up increased sales, Restaurant Inc offers a gazette of wine facts, lore, and smart tips.

Kevin Zraly, industry consultant, author, and founder of Windows on the World Wine School in New York,

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 55

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

List-o-Mania

The very best wine lists aren’t necessarily the longest ones with the most expensive selections from all corners of the world. They’re the ones that match the restaurant in size, scope, and aspiration and take into account available storage space and capital investment required. The business structure should strongly dictate the list. A multi-unit family-dining restaurant will make different determinations than will a fine-dining independent or a neighborhood wine bar. Primary daypart matters, as do demographics. Millennials order and drink differently than boomers and seniors. It’s important to know who frequents the restaurant.

“It doesn’t have to have hundreds of choices. Most restaurants that want to take a serious approach to wine can build a really good, important list with just 60 bottles,” Zraly says.

“It doesn’t have to have hundreds of choices. Most restaurants that want to take a serious approach to wine can build a really good, important list with just 60 bottles,” Zraly says. Because consumers now drink more reds than whites, that’s how the selections should break out, with a few sparkling wines and rosés as well. “The number is manageable, and you won’t have too much inventory on hand. Restaurants don’t always have space to store a lot of wine, and it should not be stacked near the stove or loading dock. It also has to be easily accessible to the servers. If they have to go get a key or find the manager, forget it.”

Most restaurants have multiple countries of origin on the list, a tactic that allows variety in style as well as price. Alan Stillman, founder of the Smith & Wollensky™ steakhouse chain, at one time made the bold move of offering only California wines, believingthat they best matched the classic American steakhouse fare his restaurants featured. But with strong interest in imported wines, these belong on most lists. Statistically, 75% of wine consumed in the U.S. is domestic – and that’s a good general guideline to follow when the menu features American fare. Restaurants that serve the cuisine of another country can safely skew to that region’s wines. As with the food menu, how wine lists are organized and presented influences sales. Perhaps most traditional and hide-bound is a division by country of origin: American, French, Italian, Chilean, Spanish, and so on. Subgroups then further separate red, white, rosé, sparkling, dessert, and fortified wines. Some restaurants, including Lacroix at The Rittenhouse, an elegant boutique hotel in Philadelphia, opt instead to sort by varietal, grouping the wines made with a specific type of grape—say Pinot Noirs—whether they are from Burgundy, Oregon, or Australia. Such a

system helps encourage exploration; seeing them together, a Chardonnay drinker who typically steers to California Chards might feel comfortable selecting a French white Burgundy, or one from New Zealand or South Africa. Justin Timsit, the wine director at Lacroix, agrees that how lists are organized is an ongoing debate, but at the high-end Lacroix, “Our guests ask for wine by varietal, not region, so this makes the most sense. It also gives an opportunity for them to explore another part of the world.” To strip away intimidation, some restaurants have adopted free-spirited listings, with wines categorized by traits such as big and bold, fruity and juicy, dry and crisp. Often described as consumer-friendly, Zraly advises against the practice. “It may seem approachable, but statistics show they don’t increase wine sales.” He also notes that extravagant and florid descriptions confuse more than they clarify. One wine description raves of spun honey, dried pineapple, toasted walnuts, candied orange peel and roasted cardamom. It very well may taste of honey, walnuts, orange and cardamom, but discerning the spun, dried, toasted, candied and roasted qualities is all but impossible.

Variety Show Pinot Noir

Tempranillo

Pinot Grigio

Gewurztraminer

Grenache

Cabernet Sauvignon

Riesling

Semillon

Merlot

Syrah

Sauvignon Blanc

Viognier

Sangiovese

Malbec

Chenin Blanc

Chardonnay

Nebbiolo

56 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

RED

WHITE

Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the most familiar grape varieties, at least to Americans, but an estimated 10,000 varieties of wine grapes are grown in the world. A much smaller number are commercially successful as wine grapes, while even fewer are familiar on wine lists. On nearly all lists, virtually all wines will be made with these 18 grapes:

Moscato

Temperature Control

Just about anyone of drinking age can spout off the most basic wine precepts: red wine is served at room temperature while white and rosé get the chill. Taken as a sweeping generalization, it is pretty much a truth you can take to the bank. But things are never quite as simple as they seem. Stashing all whites in the coldest part of the refrigerator doesn’t work, while room temperature is wildly variable and certainly much warmer than the more-rustic surroundings that defined the term in earlier eras. Caves and cool cellars, not a 72˚F dining room, were the standards by which the adage was coined. White wines’ flavor and aromatic notes are better enhanced by a proper chill, while reds blossom and spring to life at a cool room temperature.

40˚F - 50˚F

Light, crisp dry whites, rosés & sparklers

50˚F - 60˚F

Fuller-bodied whites & light reds such as Beaujolais

Zraly was formerly the wine director at Windows on the World, the restaurant perched high atop the World Trade Center in NYC from 1976 until it was destroyed in the 9/11 bombings. With a massive and worldly cellar, wine sales at Windows rang in at $6 to $7 million against annual total operation sales of $36 million. Zraly used what he calls a progressive wine list at Windows, kicking it off with the light-bodied wines and building up as they grew in strength and substance. “It worked very well for us. It is easy for guests to understand.”

Bottle, Glass or Both

A generation ago, wines by the glass were practically unheard of in restaurants. Today they are hugely popular, and why not? They allow guests to 1) try a new wine without committing to a full bottle; 2) sip wine in lieu of a pre-dinner cocktail; 3) switch from white to red between courses; 4) more closely match the meals of multiple people at the table; 5) and drink exactly the amount they desire.

60˚F - 65˚F Full bodied reds

A smartly chosen selection of wines by the glass is absolutely necessary. The era when glasses of “house” red or white were sufficient is over, and guests look for better quality and variety. Three each, or red and white plus a sparkler, is enough to get started–although more is called for if the volume is there; a dozen or more is not at all uncommon. Lacroix highlights five to 10 wines by the glass, while the hotel’s Library Bar has a more comprehensive selection. The Library Bar menu of lighter, shareable items includes a suggested wine pairing for each dish; Timsit says guests often are happy to have the built-in guidance. “Instead of focusing on ordering, they can focus on conversation.” Zraly suggests that just as there are menu specials, so, too, should there be featured wines by the glass. “It makes it more interesting and varied, and shows that serious attention is paid to the wine program,” he says. A wine preservation system is advised, especially if you plan a by-the-glass list with

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 57

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

a large number of bottles, some of which won’t be emptied at day’s end. “You don’t want to pour a wine that has been open for three days,” Zraly notes.

Margin Calls

It’s no secret that the beverage side of menus is prime ground for offsetting the tight pinch of food costs, markups for wine are more generous, and the labor requirements less burdensome. Wine, especially, is often seen as a revenue center, ideally managed in a way that guests don’t feel gouged. Unlike food, which at restaurants is transformed from what consumers see in their supermarkets—it has been trimmed, cooked, sauced, seasoned, plated, and garnished—wine is often exactly

the same as what restaurant-goers buy to drink at home. Sixteen bucks at retail for a nice red seems like a rip-off on a wine list at $64. But the bigger truth, and the one that allows some leeway, is that most diners won’t be familiar with retail pricing on most wines. For some operators, this means open season for steep markups, while others benefit from the good will of a more measured approach. At The Rittenhouse’s Lacroix, Timsit doesn’t cling to a set percentage, instead landing on a sliding scale based on the wines’ uniqueness or rarity. “We’re careful about wines that everyone knows. They get smaller markups. Bottles that only we stock or that are rare or older, we can take a bigger markup. They’re special to our restaurant, and guests don’t mind paying a little more,”

BYOB Basics

Whether dictated by space constraints, operational simplicity, or the choice not to secure licensing, the wine program at some restaurants is strictly BYOB. Most quick-service and many fast-casual restaurants operate without a liquor license, as do many ethnic spots. For guests, it can be a way to make the meal more affordable. Some diners also appreciate the measure of control it affords, since virtually any wine to which they have access, whether from their cellar or favorite shop, can be part of their dining experience. At Chilam Balam, an upscale Mexican restaurant in Chicago, the decision to operate without a liquor license was seen as a way to put its inventive food on a pedestal, ensuring that guests‘ appreciation for high-quality

he says. At Lacroix, the price ranges from $50 for your everyday bottle to $3750.00 for an older Chateau Haut-Brion. Most fall in the $100 to $250 range, a price point that’s consistent with the restaurant’s menu pricing and clientele. At the Windows on the World Restaurant, Zraly says smart markups helped contribute to vigorous wine sales. “I’m all about volume. Bring in a case and be done with it at the end of the week. We sold so much because of our pricing policy,” he notes. “There is no real science to it, but the better the pricing the more wine you sell.” Zraly offers a rule of thumb: one-third of wines should be reasonably priced, one-third average, and the rest of them can be at the higher end of the spectrum. “Somehow the

ingredients and culinary technique was less likely to be obscured by alcohol. “When people drink a lot, their interest in the food isn’t as strong. They concentrate more on alcohol,” explains Soraya Rendon, owner of the five-year old restaurant, noting that they specifically wanted to avoid that in the 45-seat restaurant. She also notes that when Chilam Balam opened, the economy wasn’t very strong; allowing guests to bring wine, a six-pack, or even a flask of tequila softened the financial pinch of a night out. No corkage or service fee is charged; in fact Rendon says that in Chicago, it is illegal for operations that do not have a liquor license to impose such tariffs. Chilam Balam’s beverage menu has the usual suspects—

numbers always worked out and customers had everything they needed,” he says. “Take the lower priced wines and make a little more on them. Average priced wines sell at an average price and the most expensive mark up the least.”

Glass Acts

A wine snob’s advice as to how many shapes and sizes of wine glasses are needed for proper service would be to stock every single one of them. Propped up by tradition and all sorts of sensory explanations about why the glass must match the varietal, the selections can seem staggering. Wines do, in fact, react to the glasses into which they are poured, and the right match-up

will release aromatic and flavor elements most favorably. But except for more serious, winecentric restaurants, every possible shape and size isn’t necessary; three to four will cover almost all scenarios. Flutes are called for if sparkling wine is served, while reds require a balloon glass and whites a tulip shape. At Lacroix, 10 to 12 kinds of glassware nicely fill the needs of its more extensive wine program. Timsit notes that glasses used for the menu’s food and wine pairings are smaller, to accommodate shorter pours. He uses smaller glasses for bottle service than he does for by-the-glass purchases. And depending on the wine, he may grab a larger balloon or tulip. “A big Chardonnay does better in a larger tulip,” he advises.

Basic Advice

Zraly, who also coaches high school basketball, finds similarities between what he does on court and in his wine work. “When something isn’t working, and you’re losing, you go back to the basics. That’s true with wine as much as basketball,” he notes. “Wine sales are going so strong. There has been 20 years of continual growth and a real wine culture exists here. There’s no reason for restaurants not to benefit,” Zraly says. “Even if your restaurant can’t support a sommelier or wine director, just find someone on staff who is passionate about wines. They will spread the enthusiasm, get the juices going.” n

bottled sparkling water, Mexican sodas, and cola. Two other offerings draw drinkers and teetotalers alike. House-made limeade and virgin sangria can be quaffed as offered or, is often the case, spiked with tequila or wine, respectively. Both are sold by the glass and by the pitcher.

consume them on premise. That, of course, means that guests aren’t allowed to carry it in, either. Other locations allow just about anything short of actually selling bottles of wine—chilling, pouring, and even storage may be within legal boundaries.

Rendon says that spotlighting food rather than drink has served them well and allowed the restaurant to operate profitably without the generous margins associated with adult beverages. “We’d never change now. Our customers love it,” she says.

In other locations where BYO is allowed, it may not be legal for restaurant employees to assist in the service of alcohol; that means glasses and corkscrews are merely dropped off at the table. Opening and pouring are left to the guests.

State and local laws differ when it comes to BYOB, and operators need to brush up on legalities specific to their area. In some instances, no liquor license means that it is illegal not just to sell alcoholic beverages but also to the

Rendon keeps close tabs on how much B her BYO guests consume. In fact, she has a policy of discouraging more than one bottle of wine per deuce. And most legal professionals suggest that restaurants that participate in BYOB should seriously consider having dram shop insurance. n

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Rules of Order There’s no science or secrets to making the wine part of restaurant meals special. All it takes is a good eye on the fundamentals, straightforward approaches that are infallibly honest, and an internal structure that supports the service. • Provide wine lists when guests are seated and then make sure someone is there promptly to take a drink order. Whether it is for cocktails or wine by the glass or bottle, getting beverages to the table is an essential step in launching the evening’s enjoyment. • Offer as much or as little help as the guest wants. Some prefer to make their own decisions, while others seek input, advice, and discussion. Whether it comes from the server or wine director, suggestions should be given in an open, approachable, and professional manner that puts guests at ease. Says Lacroix’s Timset, “Ultimately, you want to find out what the guest desires. That’s always the goal. Some pairings are better than others but few are really perfect.” • Be attuned to cues from the table about who will actually select wine by the bottle. The oldest male often is the default option, but it may not be the right one. Someone else may take the lead in choosing the wine. Present the bottle for approval to the person who actually ordered it. • If the wine has a cork, present it in a low-key way by placing it on the table rather than handing it to the guest. If they wish to pick it up and sniff it, wait to begin pouring until they have completed the ritual and signaled assent. • In dealings with guests and with other staff members, drop even the faintest whiff of wine snobbery or pretension. “Wine is meant to be drunk, not put on a pedestal,” Lacroix’s Timsit says. “Make guests comfortable and happy; that’s where success with wine really works.”

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• If wine is placed in a bucket to keep it on ice, make sure it is within sight and reach of the guest. • When wine is ordered to accompany the meal, it absolutely must be served in a timely manner, and certainly before the food arrives. A delay in service, whether it is a bottle or glass, greatly diminishes the enjoyment of both food and drink. If a bottle of wine is brought after its paired course is on the table, it requires that guests stop eating and go through the motions of tasting and accepting the wine, and no one wants their meal interrupted. • Anticipate guests’ needs and act before they have to ask. If glasses need refilling, do so discreetly. Don’t overfill or top them off every time someone takes a sip. As the glass or bottle gets close to empty, inquire as to whether a replacement should be brought to the table. • Whether via special training or pre-shift meetings, make sure that servers know enough about the wines and the menu to make sound suggestions. Timset notes that clues to wine preferences can often be picked up by their food choice. “A fish order signals a more delicate profile than meat or poultry.” • Ensure that wine lists are accurate in terms of availability and that the vintages listed are in stock. With digital printing, there is no excuse for out-of-date or incorrect info. That the wine list is clean goes without saying. • Timsit believes that sales grow when you create a real experience for guests that involves more than pouring wine. “You want them to walk out feeling that there has been a connection on a personal level, that the food, wine and service were memorable.”

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r e m m u S Leinie's yShand

The Recipe for Seasonal Success by Mary Daggett

Leinenkugel’s® Summer Shandy has become the warm weather refresher of choice for thirsty beer lovers across the nation. Not since Madame Rue, the gypsy with the gold-capped tooth, mixed up Love Potion #9 in her sink has such a curious brew garnered so much attention. Summer Shandy’s seasonal dominance might seem like alchemy, but it is actually just a brilliant blend of lager beer and natural lemonade flavor that has near-magical thirst-quenching powers. This curious brew can mean liquid gold for operators searching for a profitable potion.

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Summer Shandy’s seasonal dominance might seem like alchemy, but it is actually just a brilliant blend of lager beer and natural lemonade flavor that has near-magical thirst-quenching powers.

t helps that the brewery mixing up batches of Summer Shandy knows what it’s doing, with six generations of beermaking prowess behind it. Jacob Leinenkugel started brewing beer in 1867 in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin, for parched lumberjacks working in the Northwoods. Fast forward to 2014 Chippewa Falls, and you will find Jacob’s descendants — brothers Jake, Dick and John — still producing authentic specialty beers, now for a nationwide market. Today, there are 14 different beers in the Leinenkugel portfolio. These brews are still enjoyed by lumberjacks, but also doctors, lawyers, techies, Trekkies, golfers, surfers and ladies who lunch. The Leinenkugel brand has achieved cult status, and is known far and wide by its affectionate moniker, “Leinie’s.” The company realizes the importance of product loyalty. So many fans showed up in Wisconsin to tour the brewery where their beloved brews are made, there is now a visitors’ lounge dubbed the “Leinie Lodge,” where folks can relax while sipping their preferred libation. There is even a family reunion each year on the Saturday before Father’s Day, when thousands of Leinie’s lovers converge on Chippewa Falls to meet the Leinenkugel family and tour the brewery. These Leinie’s “cousins” are treated to bratwurst and invited to sample beers to their heart’s content (responsibly, of course).

Summer Shandy Genesis Shandy has long been popular in Europe. According to Jake Leinenkugel, it was invented out of necessity in the early 1920s by a barkeeper in Germany. So many thirsty bicyclists stopped to whet their whistles at his establishment that he was running out of beer. He quickly added lemonade to stretch his beer supply. The concoction was an instant success and the rest is brewing history.

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“We come to German-style brewing naturally,” said Jake Leinenkugel, “and have traced our heritage to the 1500s in Meckenheim, Germany. For the past 25 years, we’ve been visiting the fatherland, exploring our brewing roots and the Germanic lager style. “In 2007, my brother Dick led the team to develop our Summer Shandy brand, and to pioneer this seasonal beer in the United States. Once we had the exact taste and perfectly balanced recipe, we initially introduced Summer Shandy in Wisconsin, Minnesota, and the Chicago market. We grew 50 percent year over year, and by 2011, Summer Shandy was the No. 1 seasonal beer in the nation. In 2013, we launched our national television campaign. The momentum has been phenomenal.”

Harbinger of Summer and Boost to Menu Success Summer Shandy is available just five months each year. Aficionados eagerly await its arrival each spring to officially herald the rites of summer. And, they hoard their stash as summer comes to an end. Keep this in mind when promoting your seasonal menu features. Summer Shandy has great affinity with many trendy summer food stars. Here are some easy-to-implement suggestions: • Treat alfresco diners to a clambake, complete with steamed clams, mussels, crabs, shrimp, red potatoes, corn on the cob and frosty pitchers of tartly sweet Summer Shandy. • Encourage sharing by pairing a basket of assorted skinny sliders (ground turkey burgers inside small pretzel buns, sautéed shrimp tucked into tiny croissants and pork tenderloin slices in ciabatta minis) and sweet potato fries

with a bucket of Summer Shandy on ice. • Heat up your patrons’ palates with spicy barbecued meats, Mexican empanadas and Cajun jambalaya, then cool them down with icy-cold Summer Shandy.

• Feature Summer Shandy as the perfect accompaniment to an apps plate of guacamole, hummus and whipped Feta cheese with salty blue corn chips and flatbread dippers. • Tap into the Southern cuisine trend with fried chicken, potato salad and cornbread. Instruct servers to suggest Summer Shandy as a great beverage pairing with a bit of lemonade zing.

Jake Leinenkugel’s favorite way to enjoy Summer Shandy? “I really love to pull walleye out of the lakes around Chippewa Falls, and we make a beer batter for it with Summer Shandy. On a recent trip to California, I visited a beach bar and grill where the chef sautéed fresh shrimp with

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Summer Shandy and olive oil. The dish was outstanding. I also sampled fish tacos, in which the fish was infused with Summer Shandy. There is a great affinity between fish and seafood and this beer. Salads are another excellent pairing. The lemon flavor and carbonation provide a pleasing contrast with most foods, while cleansing the palate between mouthfuls for a fresh experience with each bite. We have flavor experts available to work with operators on menu pairings.” Statistically, Summer Shandy consumers are 50 percent male/50 percent female. Thirty percent are brand-new beer drinkers. At just 127 calories per 12-ounce serving, the beverage is 20 percent lower in calories than regular beer, making it appealing for today’s healthier lifestyles and lighter menu offerings. n

Entice Patrons with a Sample Shot Summer Shandy lovers will be pleased to find it on your beverage menu. For Shandy virgins, why not offer a sample shot to anyone who hasn’t discovered its adventurous taste. Chances are excellent that they’ll order several servings during their visit, and come back for more.

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Farmers’ Market Fresh Cocktails By Audarshia Townsend

mong the elderly early risers, extreme vegetable enthusiasts, and self-described locavores is a curious new character at farmers’ markets all over the country: the mixologist—those kings and queens behind the stick of America’s most buzzed about bars and restaurants. She/he stands out during those early morning hours as she/he navigates the grounds for the best produce just like everyone else. “An unwritten farmers’ market rule explained to me by our chef is that you’ll need to arrive before 10 a.m. to have options,” says Hermant Pathak, the head bartender at Junoon, a modern Indianinfluenced restaurant in New York. That’s a pretty good rule for Pathak to follow, especially considering that the majority of his cocktails revolve around seasonal ingredients. As with most bartenders who are passionate about local produce, Pathak visits area markets so frequently that many of the farmers know him on a first-name basis.

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The fresh-ingredient trend is certainly one most consumers readily support, and more bartenders find themselves drawn to it instead of gimmicky ones that overcomplicate the simplest sipper. From house-made syrups and infusions to offbeat pickling techniques, locally sourced fruits and vegetables offer many uses for the skilled bartender looking to amp up classic cocktail recipes. Junoon’s Pathak says that specialty house-made purées and syrups are the backbone of his cocktail program.

“It gives me great satisfaction to say that Junoon takes a great deal of interest in fresh and seasonal ingredients, which is a key factor in my repertoire,” says Pathak. “It’s the simple, clean, and contemporary approach to classic and modern cocktails that reintroduces the idea of seasonal drinks, with recipes appropriate for any time of the year.” For example, he relishes whipping up exotic syrups in flavors like honeyginger, rose-chili and pomegranate, as well as raspberry puree and blood orange-and-clove reduction. Pathak’s

"(The) cool, refreshing cucumber has become an increasingly popular ingredient in all types of our drinks as it is a phenomenal complement to fresh cilantro or mint." also a big fan of the cucumber because of its versatility. “(The) cool, refreshing cucumber has become an increasingly popular ingredient in all types of our drinks as it is a phenomenal complement to fresh cilantro or mint,” he adds.

Second City Seasons Chicago newcomer Jason Brown finds the Windy City challenging when it concerns his market-fresh cocktails at the sustainable-focused Kinmont restaurant. Though the acclaimed

bar manager visits his neighborhood farmers’ market regularly for seasonal produce, he finds it less diverse than the markets he frequented during his 10-year stint living in San Francisco. “Everything grows in California, and some things are always growing, and the farmers’ markets can be pretty amazing,” Brown says. “I am concerned with the harshness of (this past) Chicago winter; I wonder if the berries will have the natural sweetness they’ll need to punch up cocktails.” Nevertheless, Brown is looking forward to strawberry, raspberry, and blueberry season, fruits he hopes will complement his gin-focused drinks. To ensure Kinmont gets choice selections, his team has developed a great relationship with a city farm located four blocks away from the restaurant. They’re also working with them on spirited dinners that will include local produce in the cuisine and cocktails. It’s a strategic move that’s certain to bring more attention to Kinmont’s market-fresh cocktail program. “Chicagoans are pretty adventurous

drinkers, and I am mesmerized by how much they like their brown spirits,” says Brown. “Customers are becoming more sophisticated palate-wise. You’re using nature’s candy—when you’re going market fresh. You can easily achieve the sugar aspect of a cocktail by utilizing the seasonal fruits.”

Market Options Erick Castro’s market-fresh ingredients originate from three places: the farmers’ markets he visits two or three times a week, a specialty produce company, and guests’ home gardens. “When it comes to utilizing fresh produce,” he elaborates, “we tell our guests that if they have fresh fruit that they’ve been growing at home to bring it in and we’ll make them a cocktail out if it.” As general manager/co-owner of San Diego’s Polite Provisions restaurant, Castro is instrumental in developing the cocktail menu—which changes weekly. “Being able to see and taste all of the freshest fruits and vegetables that are in

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season provides great inspiration for our menu,” he adds. “Because [it] changes at least once a week, we are constantly training our staff on the new ingredients used. Our bartenders are really good when it comes to explaining the thought process behind the cocktail development to our guests. ”

Polite Provisions is managed by CH Projects, which also owns the highly regarded Craft & Commerce, as well as El Dorado Cocktail Lounge and Noble Experiment. Beverage director Anthony Schmidt visits the market weekly for inspiration and as a reminder “to use delicious new fruits, herbs, or even veggies” in cocktails. He believes these fresh ingredients help forge strong connections with customers. “[These market-fresh cocktails] give us a story to tell,” Schmidt says. “And stories like these give guests a reason to come back. When we so obviously care about the ingredients, and understand where our ingredients come from, it correlates to the same care for our guests. They know we’re excited about the ingredient, and implicitly know we’re excited to be serving them. We go to the market, and study new ingredients only so we can give our guests more aloha, and care.” One of his favorite seasonal, signature cocktails is the Carlsbad Cooler, which uses fresh strawberries.

Bar

“We use an aperitif fortified wine to add some bitterness. It’s a well-balanced, slightly boozy, fresh wine cooler. Gin, lemon juice, and a splash of soda water help balance the sweetness of ripe San Diego strawberries and the semi-sweet wine.” Hinoki & the Bird bartender, Brandyn Tepper, together believe that seasonal fruits help ease guests into drinking more adventurous elixirs. “Not every guest is going to know or understand what this liqueur is or that bitter is; however, they do know what a blood orange or yuzu is,” explains the Los Angeles-based mixologist. “Seasonal fruits allow for a guest to try certain spirits they'd never think twice of trying. … For example, we’ve featured a cocktail called the Strawberry Shake. The drink combines rye whiskey, lime, strawberries and Peychaud bitters. You'd be surprised how many times a customer can't believe it's a whiskey-based cocktail.” n

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rers, u o P , s r le …Mudd & Glassware! rs Straine Ask your Reinhart® Sales Consultant for more information on our bar guide! rfsdelivers.com l tracsdirect.com

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Growing Up:

The Future of Produce May Be Vertical, Organic & Coming to an Abandoned Warehouse Near You by Mindy Kolof

Everyone’s weighing in on it: university professors, supply chain gurus, environmental trailblazers, culinary thought leaders, bigcity mayors, startup incubators, POTUS, even rock-legend Sting. But the future of produce – in a time of extreme weather events, an exploding world population and record-high demand for every type of green on the planet – is topping everyone’s list of new-millennium quandaries.

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By 2050 the population is expected to reach nine

billion

globally, the United Nations estimates food production will need to increase by seventy-Nine percent. The problem: over eighty

he short-term impact is already resounding: with farm losses to California drought estimated at $5 billion in 2013, the Midwest polar vortex making soybeans and potatoes a challenge to get to market in the winter of 2014, and Mexico’s lime shortage driving prices to record highs. No solace is found in the long-term outlook, either: by 2050, the population is expected to reach nine billion globally, with nearly 70 percent of people living in urban areas, and to keep up with demand, the United Nations estimates food production will need to increase by 79 percent. The problem: over 80 percent of the land suitable for farming is already in use. Current methods of feeding people are proving largely unsustainable, especially in the most developed nation on earth–the U.S. uses 4.5 billion gallons of fuel annually just to transport its agriculture. It’s time to rethink and replant the world’s crops. Look around at the proliferation of community farms in urban neighborhoods, rooftop gardens embraced by progressive chefs, hydroponic and aquaponic agriculture sprouting in city

percent of the land suitable for farming is already in use.

warehouses, greenhouses, shadehouses, urban canopies, and you’ll see the seeds of the new produce revolution are already being sown. The fastest: rising profile these days is the vertical farm concept. Based on a true "ha moment" in Columbia University professor Dr. Dickson Despommier’s classroom more than a decade ago, it’s finding fertile ground in Canada, Korea, Japan, Singapore, China and increasingly, in the U.S. Dr. Despommier tells the story to Restaurant Inc: “My students approached me halfway through a course in medical ecology, depressed about the constant emphasis on environmental destruction and its impact on the nation’s health. We posed the question, ‘what would it be like to live in a world where everybody gets fed safe, clean food?’ Their approach was to develop rooftop gardens, but it quickly became apparent that there weren’t enough rooftops even in New York City to make an impact, so I challenged them to move the farm inside, and build up, and the whole

concept grew from there.” The realization that one indoor acre is equivalent to four to six outdoor acres or more, depending upon the crop, was one of many on a list of indisputable benefits. Despommier ticks them off: “No crops would ever fail to due to severe weather, produce would be available to city dwellers without the need to transport it thousands of miles, spoilage would be greatly reduced, the product is grown organically with no herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers, black water is recycled, energy is added back to the grid via methane generation from composting non-edible parts, and a sustainable urban environment is created.” He went on to kick-start the movement with his 2010 tome The Vertical Farm, attracting the attention of global environmentalists, urban architects, think-tank leaders, tech investors, and even snagging an unexpected endorsement from influential musician/activist Sting. “The vertical farm is a world-changing innovation whose time has come,” the socially conscious singer wrote in the foreword. “This visionary book

provides a blueprint for securing the world’s food supply and at the same time solving one of the gravest world environmental crises facing us today.” Despommier says: “The response was thrilling, and the idea continues to grow as technology improves its economic viability and makes the product more affordable. Eventually every city will produce a percentage of their food this way.” From just a handful in 2009, Despommier points to a thriving industry, accepted enough to rate its own 455-page market forecast analysis from WinterGreen Research. According to the study, the market for vertical farms is anticipated to reach $1.97 billion by 2020, propelled by vegetable yields 10 to 20 times higher than those grown in open-air fields. Says Susan Eustis, lead author of the 2014 study, "The ability to grow food consistently, locally represents a major breakthrough for humanity." This is evident from the missionary zeal voiced by the industry’s pioneers, inspired not just by the profits that might be found in the productive non-soil of their vertical farms, but by the chance to nourish their communities. Everyone is well aware of the fact that the movement is very much in its infancy, and its success is far

from guaranteed. But the potential is enormous, and all intend to nurture their nascent businesses with the steady patience and painstaking work ethic of their landbound predecessors. A look at some of this decade’s crop of early bloomers would include:

Farm e d H e r e

Bedford Park, Illinois In 2013, the company transformed a 90,000 square-foot building into 150,000 square feet of vertical growing space, ready to produce a million pounds of leafy greens, peppers, tomatoes and herbs annually. CEO Jolanta Hardej points with pride to their designation as the only USDA organic certified aquaponic indoor operation in the U.S., with a more than 90 percent crop success rate, conserving 97 percent of the fresh water used per farm acre. “An average head of lettuce travels as much as 2000 miles; ours goes less than 15 miles,” she says. Their system, combining aquaponics with aeroponics to deliver optimum amounts of nutrients and oxygen to the plant root while constantly recycling fresh water, was capital-intensive initially, says Hardej. “We are urban farmers, but also a tech company, so we needed to create the entire environment. But technology and

lighting are getting less expensive as we evolve, and we know what works and what doesn’t. It will only get more efficient from here.” The advantages, including guaranteed food, delivery the day after harvest, and the ability to grow baby greens rich in nutrients, are finding believers in the foodservice industry and with progressive diners. Farmed Here’s mission goes well beyond the profits, Hardej believes. “There’s a huge social impact to what we’re trying to achieve, and educating the consumer as to how we’re helping preserve the environment is the most important piece.”

Garden Fresh Farm s Minnesota

Give founder Dave Roeser 10,000 square feet and he’ll give you back 2400 heads of lettuce from the lettuce factory and 80 pounds of basil a day from his orbiting garden – using aquaponics and a patented technology that rotates stemmed plants 360 degrees every half hour. For chefs, the produce has extra value, boasting a stronger flavor profile and less waste because of the way it’s grown. A third less basil is needed

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in recipes, and the oregano plant’s large leaves and tiny stems can be chopped up and used in their entirety. He’s selling more than organic-quality produce, however; he’s hoping to build a nationwide network with his concept. Roeser is providing the opportunity for other areas to revitalize old warehouses by installing his award-winning modular indoor agriculture systems, which can range from a beginning 5,000 square feet to a sprawling 50,000 square feet. “Eventually, we’d like to account for 10 percent of the leafy greens and herbs produced in a market.”

Gotham Greens New York City As co-founder and CEO Viraj Puri is fond of saying “our products are harvested before breakfast so they can be on your plate by lunch.” The company first earned the spotlight in 2011, with the launch of the country’s first commercial rooftop greenhouse in Brooklyn. Last April, they went bigger, making headlines with a splashy new 20,000-squarefoot garden on the roof of a large Whole Foods in the Gowanus area of the borough. Set to produce 150 tons annually of

lettuces, basil, bok choy, kale and tomatoes, Gotham Greens will supply fine dining restaurants as well as the grocery behemoth with its fresh product. “With two fully operational commercial facilities, we’re able to offer our produce for roughly the same price as organic,” says Puri. He compares the urban farming industry to where craft beers were up until five years ago, when the big three beer companies controlled virtually the entire market. “There’s not many of us doing this, but the buzz is growing considerably. I’m cautiously optimistic,” he says.

Green Spirit Farm s New Buffalo, Michigan Founded in 2011, Milan Kluko’s brainchild houses 1,715 vertical growing stations, the equivalent of 200 acres of farmland, growing seven million plants year round. The multi-level system uses induction lighting, “our light of choice because it creates a full spectrum that’s like the sun,” says Kluko. He spent a year perfecting the best way to ensure annual harvests of nonGMO, organically seeded produce, including peppers, tomatoes, kale, strawberries and a “spirit mix” of four different types of lettuce grown together. Kluko calls it “8:30 to 5 farming, five

days a week,” with the process fully controlled and predictable from start to finish.“Our model is to bring food sovereignty back to urban areas and save our valuable resources.” Having demonstrated its efficacy during the Sustainable Agriculture Summit at the 2012 Olympics, where he grew produce in downtown London specifically for the event, Kluko is finding enthusiastic customers closer to home as well. Chef Jeremy Kiens from Nana’s calls their kale “tender and easy to chew, unlike most kale which requires long cooking times.”The spirit mix is another favored product, because it “holds up well to vinaigrettes and doesn’t wilt when touched.”

The Plant Chicago “If you have a flat acre of land, that’s all you have to work with. But an acre with multiple levels gives you so much more,” says Shelby Phillips, program manager at The Plant, one of Chicago’s most ambitious forays into urban agriculture. In 2012, an abandoned, 95,000 square foot, three-story meat processing factory on the city’s south side was converted into a working farm space and incubator for small food-producing businesses. The closed loop aquaponics system is “as

"Our aim is not to take away business from the outside farmer, but complement them. At the end of the day, there is room for all of us in the agriculture system."

natural as you can get,” pumping water from fish tanks filled with nearly 180,000 tilapia back to the 3,000 square feet of growing beds for chives, herbs and leafy greens. Still in the works is the installation of an anaerobic digester and heat and power system to allow the facility to operate with “net zero energy, completely off the grid.” The ultimate goal, explains Phillips, is to create a food hub where “you’ll be able to buy everything you need, produced locally.” Early signs of success are already in full bloom as one of The Plant’s early start-ups, Nick Greens, gets set to launch. The company is tapping into the growing hunger for locally produced artisanal micro greens, and his first few months indicate that appetite might well prove insatiable. “We’re off and running, with lots of interest from local restaurants; they’re knocking on our doors,” says Green. “Giving chefs and consumers control of their food source with local, high quality products is definitely a need in the marketplace just beginning to emerge.” Even mixologists want in on the micro green action, keeping Greens' customer roster expanding with potential. At Nick Greens, the 10x20 trays are stacked vertically from ground up

to the 10-foot ceilings, leveraging every bit of space and natural sunlight. Current offerings are listed weekly, “we’re constantly cycling in new vegetables,” says Green. Their carbon footprint is kept even more minimal with bicycle-only deliveries three times weekly.

Fielding the Future No one is a bigger believer in the need to ensure produce stays front and center on everyone’s menus for decades to come than Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, Senior Director of Programs and Culinary Nutrition for The Culinary Institute of America (CIA). She’s noticed a marked uptick in interest from chefs in the school’s “Produce First” program, introduced in 2006 to promote menu innovation with fruits and vegetables. “Due to the variety of colors, flavors, and textures," says Myrdal Miller. "But as consumers’ interest in health and wellness has steadily increased, so has the foodservice industry's interest in adding more produce to the menu." Now, "fresh" has become the most powerful descriptor on the menu, calorie and sodium reduction are major touchpoints,

and concern for the planet’s health has ramped up. On all points, “plants and plant-based foods have a better message, and there’s unlimited potential for flavor and innovation with products like onions and mushrooms. But we are far from prepared to deal with potential shortages,” she says. Going forward, foodservice operators will need to consider issues such as shifting purchasing patterns and weighing the costs of efficiencies of scale against local sourcing, believes Myrdal Miller. For now, most agree that only a combination of farms will ensure produce remains lushly available on American plates. “All three types of agriculture will most likely be needed – traditional, organic and vertical,” says Rob Ondrus, Director of Category Management for Reinhart. Gotham Greens’ Puri says more responsible techniques are making a comeback, with small – scale farms and sustainable crops emphasized. Confirms Kluko at Green Spirit Farms: “Our aim is not to take away business from the outside farmer, but complement them. At the end of the day, there is room for all of us in the agriculture system.” n

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King of the Superfoods:

Kale Reigns by MARKON ®

So-called super foods have been grabbing headlines since the ‘90s—these are the ingredients that boast high concentrations of health-promoting agents such as antioxidants, fiber, vitamins, and minerals that are said to reduce the risk of many diseases. Hearty greens like kale and spinach climbed into top spots a few years ago and show no signs of losing popularity. Remember when kale was relegated to buffet table garnish status? Or only served next to plain brown rice? Those days are long gone. Today you will find it – and many other hearty greens such as Swiss chard, collards, tat-soi, and radicchio – in crave-able recipes on mainstream menus from coast to coast. Summer is upon us and with it: salad season. Using on-trend kale and its family of bitter-flavored greens is a delicious way to serve new, inventive dishes as well as upgrade traditional favorites with bold flavor, hearty texture, immunity-boosting vitamins, and essential minerals. And whether you serve them raw, roasted, or sautéed, they all pair well with contrasting ingredients such as bright citrus fruits, crunchy nuts, salty meats, and creamy cheeses.

Kale Sprout Salad An upgraded classic, this salad features visually appealing kale sprouts, salty pancetta, and sweet caramelized onions.

Shredded Kale Salad

Usage Ideas:

This hearty salad works solo as an appetizer or topped with grilled chicken for an entrée.

n RSS Shredded Kale makes upgrading salads a cinch—it’s already triple-washed and sliced into thin strips. Toss it with sherry vinaigrette, shaved Parmesan cheese, and paprika-dusted

Kale-Radicchio Quesadilla

pumpkin seeds. Top with grilled chicken or seafood for a healthy entrée portion.

n New to the foodservice world, kale sprouts are a hybrid of kale and Brussels sprouts; their shape, size, and color make them uniquely appealing as salads and side dishes. Lightly sauté them and toss with salty pancetta, caramelized onions, and aged balsamic vinegar.

Give nutty, salty cheese quesadillas balance with the bitter notes of kale and radicchio.

n Hand-held snacks like quesadillas make excellent appetizers—especially when you

Kale- & Chard-Stuffed Portabella Mushrooms

offset the creamy cheese with crunchy kale and radicchio; serve with diced RSS Avocado Halves and MFC Tomatoes for added visual appeal.

n Update your menu’s traditional stuffed mushroom recipe with the bitter notes of kale and the crunch of pine nuts. Use large MFC Portabella Mushrooms for entrée-size portions packed with umami.

Offer a hearty vegetarian option with umami-flavored Portabella mushrooms stuffed with healthy kale and rainbow chard, crunchy pine nuts, and creamy Fontina cheese.

n Increase the nutritional content of bar snacks and appetizer chips: roast thinly sliced beets, kale leaves, and squash rounds until crispy,

Beet, Kale & Squash Chips

season with salt and pepper, then serve with dips like hummus, guacamole, or house-made French onion.

Scan the QR code for these great recipes and more!

A distinctive alternative to French fries as well as a creative appetizer, these root veggie chips are on-trend and delicious.

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B E V E R A G E

ayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On Tod es, ric Plat t n e C Veggie

ud p S e h T s e s i R o Als

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B E V E R A G E Advocate Meredith Myers of the U.S. Potato Board (USPB) says, “You can dress potatoes up and put them on any fine dining plate, or put them in a T-shirt for a perfect bar bite. Nothing else runs the gamut of possibilities like the potato.” Let us open your eyes to the true power of the potato. Cookbook authors, potato-focused restaurateurs and produce growers have all helped unearth the season’s best thinking and recipes to spread the spud love. We’ll bring the potato from side to entrée, from breakfast to dinner, from Russet to Hasselback, from mandolined to mashed – no potato will be left unpeeled in our quest to put tubers at the top.

We challenge you to take another look at these terrifically versatile and genuinely lovable vegetables, and heed the advice of Chef Bill Briwa, leader of the annual “Menu Innovations with Potatoes” workshop sponsored by the Culinary

Institute of America® for the last eight years: “Take what you’ve learned about potatoes up until now and put it on the shelf. Reintroduce yourself to potatoes as if you’re meeting for the first time, and take it in new and different directions.”

GET YOUR POTATOES IN PLAY Try one, change one, just make the most of this mega useful vegetable that’s always risen above its category to make an impact. They’ll stretch your food dollar, with a price per pound that checks in much lower than costlier proteins and greens. • Stuffed Baked Potato Skins • Mad Cowboy • Potato Fennel Gratin • Layered Mashed Potato & Mushroom Casserole with Black Truffle Drizzle

• Sweet Potato French Fries

• Baby Red Potato Appetizer Caviar

• Mini Herbed Pommes Anna

• Steak Fingerling Potato and

• Hasselback Potatoes

Spinach Salad

“They bring so much character and color to the plate,” agrees Chef Alex Placencia, executive corporate chef for Native Foods Café restaurants, with locations in LA, Colorado, Chicago and Oregon. “All the sizes and shapes, the creaminess or crispness – no matter what your focus, there’s a potato that fits it.” First, let’s poke a few holes in the skin of some half-baked myths that persistently tarnish the rep of this kitchen mainstay. Often thought of as just a starch or carbohydrate, it’s a bona fide vegetable, containing all the vitamins, minerals, flavonoids, and fiber that go with the title. Check out the potato’s nutritional creds—an excellent source of potassium, Vitamin C, B6, and magnesium. Another misconception is that potatoes only sell well as side dishes. Potatopia founder Allen Dikker says it’s a mistake to sideline these star players, and he’s counting on that big time, as he expands his franchise, singularly focused on the drawing power of the spud. With four varietals—Kennebec, Russet,

KNOW YOUR SPUDS

Restaurant Inc. compiled these tips from potato pros to help RUSSETS

YELLOWS

The all-purpose performer: fry up crisp, bake beautifully, make great oven-roasted fries, and whip up fluffy for mashed potatoes.

Creamy texture that means less butter is needed; subtly sweet; can be grilled, baked, roasted or mashed.

REDS

A specialty potato that brings an earthy, nutty flavor that complements green salads.

Waxy and smooth, are popular in potato salad, soups, stews or “smashed,” as in Potatopia’s bestselling dish—baby red skin potatoes, marinated, roasted, smashed and fried until crunchy on outside, tender inside.

WHITES Known for a delicate, thin skin that needs no peeling for mashed potatoes or potato salads.

BLUE/PURPLE

FINGERLINGS Promise an easy prep – no need to peel or trim these 4-inch long colorful specialty potatoes, in red, orange, purple, yellow and white.

PETITES Labor-saving, bite-sized options to be prepared and served whole.

“Don’t go the easy route of just offering baked potatoes or French fries, they have endless uses, and are ideal for upselling if they’re unique enough.” – Allen Dikker, Potatopia founder Red Bliss and Jumbo Yam – he’s created more than 200 recipes suited to his rapidly growing fastcasual audience. “We consider potatoes to be the foundation of a completely balanced meal. When vegetables and sauces are added, you have the best of all worlds on one plate,” says Dikker. He compares potatoes to pizza dough, “which gives you a blank canvas to create on. Don’t go the easy route of just offering baked potatoes or French fries,” he urges. “They have endless uses, and are ideal for upselling if they’re unique enough.” Varieties are also given short shrift in the potato world, with only a few making their way into culinary consciousness. While the last "new" potato to go totally mainstream may have been Yukon Gold in the

1980s, there are actually more than 100 types of potatoes available in America alone, and some 4,000 globally, according to USPB. “When I first trained as a chef, the whole potato universe consisted of two types – mealy and waxy,” shares Briwa. “Now the growers have done the hard work, introducing dozens of new types in the last few years, and it gets better every year.” Russets like Burbank, Norkotah and Centennial still lead, according to Cathy Gomez, marketing manager for produce supplier Markon Cooperative®, but others are making a name for themselves, including Sangre and Chieftain red potatoes; Satina and Yellow Jelly in addition to Yukon Gold for yellow potatoes; and Covington sweet potatoes. Which brings us to our last

misconception—that potato types are interchangeable. “A potato is not just a potato,” explains Molly Stevens, who co-authored the 300-recipe One Potato Two Potato cookbook. “Have more than Idaho and red potatoes on hand. There are so many heirloom, seasonal, and regional varieties available now, and these can find their way onto small plates, seafood dishes, Mediterranean menus, desserts.” Her current choices include German butterball, fingerlings and a local favorite, Northeast Green Mountain potatoes. Each variety, says Briwa, has its own specific applications, preparation methods and flavor profiles: “This is where we’re lagging behind, there is not a uniform awareness among chefs as to how to use them.”

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 77

R MENU U O Y N O E R E EVERYWH E C A L P L U F T HEIR RIGH T O T S E O T A BRING POT

HASSLEBACK POTATOES Named for the first place they were served in Sweden, are gaining popularity as a more sophisticated stuffed or baked potato.

FINGERLING POTATOES Long and elegant, roast well, and team nicely with grilled meats and greens.

SWEET POTATOES Are red hot, and work in a variety of styles – waffle, shoestring, or sliced, fried and served with dipping sauces and cheese.

BREAKFAST

Colcannon, a traditional Irish mashed potato-kalecabbage dish, is gaining popularity in the U.S. More retro remakes under way include artisan-style tater tots (“the next big thing,” predicts Gomez) and double-baked potatoes with trendy toppings like pesto, herbs or aioli.

Potatoes are commanding a larger share of the breakfast plate. Some of Briwa’s eye-opening creations include a baked russet potato stuffed with herb potato salad and topped with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon; a breakfast pizza with a mashed potato crust and eggs, arugula and cheese on top; a frittata with sautéed vegetables, Swiss chard and Yukon Gold potatoes; and potato beignets.

GO PERUVIAN-STYLE

APPS

RETRO REVIVAL IS IN

CHANGE IT UP

Use small potatoes for hand-held appetizers—wrap with prosciutto, stuff with goat cheese or stack with butternut squash rounds.

Try an Asian-style fingerling potato salad or purple potato salad with green goddess dressing.

TOP IT OFF

Mix mashed potatoes with fish, lemon juice, and salt.

FILL THE BOWL FOR VEGETARIANS AND FLEXITARIANS Steam half a Russet potato, fill with roasted vegetables, drench with barbecue sauce and ranch dressing, layer with more sauce and top with blackened tempe. 78 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

Go beyond butter, sour cream and cheese and pair dinner potatoes with sauces like romesco, red curry and harissa or spice mixtures such as ras el hanout, garam masala, and za’atar. Sources: Markon, CIA, Native Foods

KEEL VODKA... LIGHT on calories & turning heads!

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 79

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL:

Liquid Gold or Just the Best Tasting Ingredient to Ever Grace A Salad by Mindy Kolof

Virgin olive oil. Extra virgin olive oil. Extra pure olive oil. Fino olive oil. Light olive oil. Refined olive oil. Do you know what you’re buying? And does it matter?

hicago-area restaurateur Dimitri Kallianis is among

than its counterparts—virgin, pure, or refined. As a salad

the small – but influential and growing – group who

oil, or bread dip, its attributes are immediately apparent,

thinks so. It’s why he dug all the way back to his

but among the knowledgeable, its cult is also spreading to

centuries-old Greek roots to bring authentic extra

the frying pan as a superior finishing oil for meat and fish.

virgin olive oil to the American market under his brand “The Lonely Olive Tree Organics.” What he’s finding is

Add to that the enviable health profile of extra virgin olive

a slowly building awareness of the culinary and health

oil, with years of research proving cardiovascular benefits

benefits of this ancient product among chefs, (celebrity and

beyond a doubt. The latest, in the New England Journal of

non), restaurant operators, and sophisticated home cooks

Medicine, tracked people at risk of heart disease, following

and foodies.

one of three diets: low-fat, a Mediterranean diet with

Real extra virgin olive oil is like nothing else, say the

tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil per day. And if you’re

converted. Allowed less than one percent acidity (0.8% to

predicting a win from the olive oil imbibers, you won’t be

be exact), no other oils are cut or blended in. The taste is

disappointed with the results. The researchers reported

fresher, the texture thicker and the aroma more enticing

a substantial – 30 percent – reduction in the risk of heart

80 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

nuts, or a Mediterranean diet that included almost four

F O O D

attack and stroke, spurring them to recommended the Mediterranean diet for prevention of cardiovascular disease. Other studies highlight the oil as a rich source of polyphenols, antioxidants which not only protect the heart, but reduce cancer risk by lowering inflammation

B E V E R A G E

From Tree to Bottle – Journey of an Olive Destined for Extra Virgin Oil Greatness

and cellular proliferation. The list of benefits goes on: lowering the risk of type 2 diabetes, decreasing blood pressure, reducing the likelihood of rheumatoid arthritis, and slowing the development of Alzheimer’s. The problem, according to Kallianis and other oil connoisseurs, is that the U.S. is awash in poor oil, with many pretenders to the extra virgin olive oil throne. Most Americans remain woefully misinformed, optimistically

With slight nods to modern efficiencies, today’s best producers adhere to practices that have defined the art of extra virgin olive oil production for centuries. We track the olive’s progress, with assists from Dimitri Kallianis, founder of Lonely Olive Tree Organics extra virgin olive oil brand, harvested from family groves in Sparta, Greece, and Eryn Balch, executive vice president, North American Olive Association, which recently launched a certification program to identify oils meeting stringent International Olive Council standards.

pouring the oil on their micro greens or using it to fry up some freshly caught fresh salmon, and believing they’re serving up a truly superior culinary experience while packing in cardiovascular benefits by the forkful. Sadly, they couldn’t be more wrong, because most of the oil sold in the U.S. doesn’t meet the chemical or sensory specifications that determine true extra virgin olive oil status. And that means the health benefits have trickled away as well. “Many have a ‘eureka’ moment when they first taste extra virgin olive oil; it’s one of the earth’s real treasures. But most people never

HARVESTING: In the Mediterranean, the harvest usually happens from October through January, depending on region and olive varietal. Tree shaking starts in November, picking the mountain-grown Agourelaio (“immature”) olives when they’re green and full of flavor.

PRESSING OR CRUSHING:

Today, this is typically done by machine – hence "crushing" instead of the traditional “press” – and results in an olive paste. “Cold press” or “First cold press” refers to the fact that no heat is added during this stage of production, and “press” refers to the traditional devices used for thousands of years to crush the olives.

have the chance,” say Curtis Cord, publisher of the industry’s magazine of record, Olive Oil Times®. Count him in the passionate coterie who have drunk in the real EVOO and never gone back. But that also

DECANTING & CENTRIFUGATION: The crushed olive paste moves on to a decanter machine that separates the oil and water from solid matter. Next, the oil and water are separated from each other in a centrifuge.

GRADING: The resulting oil goes through chemistry

and sensory analysis as outlined by the International Olive Council to determine the appropriate grade, and is readied for sale, bottling or blending.

NOT EXTRA VIRGIN, BUT REFINED

REFINING: This process is used only for oil with chemical

or sensory defects. Color, odor, and flavor are removed by vacuum separation and filtering, resulting in refined olive oil. This oil is then blended with virgin or extra virgin olive oil to create Olive Oil, also called Pure Olive Oil or Light Tasting Olive Oil.

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 81

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B E V E R A G E

strengthens his determination to

between olive oils; this is really in

That is precisely what distinguishes

keep illuminating the dark corners

its pre-infancy stage.” Compared

a true extra virgin olive oil in

of this profitable industry, keep

to wine expertise, for instance, the

sensory testing, according to

out the deceivers, recognize the

information gap is enormous. “While

the North American Olive Oil

authentic, and educate others to do

there is a great divide between

Association (NAOOA). Positive

the same.

foodservice professionals’ knowledge

attributes include: fruity (ripe

of wine and the general public, that

fruit yields oils that are buttery,

Rewind to 2012 when the well-

doesn’t exist with extra virgin olive

floral, aromatic; green fruit yields

respected UC Davis Olive Center

oil—only a fraction of either group

oils that are grassy, herbaceous);

issued a study showing almost

knows anything about it.”

bitter (described as a “pleasantly

60 percent of extra virgin olive oils approved for use in

And that’s frustrating to those

restaurants and foodservice did

who devote most of their working

not deserve the label. Although

day to producing, marketing,

they passed the USDA’s chemistry

or advocating for the product.

standards, they didn’t meet its

“Foodservice professionals and

sensory ones. And stunningly, some were even categorized as “unfit for human consumption” by the Olive Center’s trained and accredited taste panel. Cord covered the story prominently in the Olive Oil Times, and foodservice professionals were abuzz. The issue continued to serve as a hot-button topic passionately discussed at trade seminars and conferences, and Cord himself

consumers are paying extra for the extra virgin label, yet much of the time, they’re not getting it,” says Cord. Even worse, “they’re missing out on what truly great olive oil tastes like.” Kallianis knows tasting is believing, which is why generous samples of his meticulously produced brand are always on the table at his two Chicago-area restaurants and bottle-ready for purchase by diners

founded the first New York

“who want to take the experience

International Olive Oil competition

home.” His customers also include

in 2013 to honor superior

foodservice operators who buy it in

producers.

five-gallon tins, and are doing their

But moving the needle is proving slower than expected, despite the embrace given the oil by high-profile

part to elevate the standards of every olive oil seeker who comes in the door.

chefs, not to mention cardiologists

“There’s no comparison to the type

and nutritionists. “It’s amazing

of oil you can buy in the store,”

how little progress has been made

confirms Sharon Ferling, vice

since then,” laments Cord. “Not

president of Burritt Meat Products

many people, including those

and Catering in far northern Illinois.

in the foodservice industry, are

“There’s a peppery flavor to it that

paying attention to the difference

really tastes fresh.”

82 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

acrid flavor”) and pungent (a peppery sensation). The defects most commonly noted are fusty/ muddy sediment, musty/humid/ earthy, winey/ vinegary/acid/sour, rancid, frostbitten olives. “People are always able to taste the difference,” says Eryn Balch, executive vice president of NAOOA. “That’s where the opportunity is greatest for foodservice. Once diners sample it and understand why you’re using it, up-charging is acceptable.” Besides actually having an expert tasting panel sample your product, there are some telltale signs to look for, advises Balch. “Teach yourself to recognize the smell of rancid oil—put some olive oil in a clear glass jar and leave it in the sun for a week; it will develop a very distinctive odor.” Read the label details, including acidity level, when and where harvested, best-by date and production method. If the information isn’t readily apparent, open a

dialogue with your supplier, and ask what steps are taken to assure the oil’s purity. The container is also important—extra virgin olive oil should be packaged in dark glass or a tin. The color of the oil itself, however, is not an indicator of quality, “it’s more an indication of the type of olive and when it was harvested,” she says. Fair pricing is key. “If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.” Don’t plan on a long storage life – just 18 months to two years in a sealed container located in a dark, cool place (not next to the stove!). “Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better with age, but goes bad naturally over time,” emphasizes Balch. Finally, don’t automatically assume that imports are good and domestic brands are inferior. “The truth is that great olive oil can be made everywhere,” says Cord. “Greece is known for its green, bitter-tasting olive oil,

Olive oil is a rich source of

polyphenols, antioxidants which not only protect the heart, but reduce cancer risk. The goes on: lowering the risk of type 2 diabetes, decreasing blood pressure, etc.

and Italy for its endless variety of cultivars, but there are beautifully authentic brands here in the U.S., too.” n

ISSUE 3, 2014 RFSDELIVERS.COM 83

Now Taking To Go Orders!

TRACS Direct To Go 速

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRY OUR FREE INDUSTRY-LEADING KITCHEN MANAGEMENT PROGRAM FOR YOUR iPhone Harness these powerful tools with our new app: TRACS Direct To Go!

速

Download at the Apple App Store or contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information. SM

TRACS Direct To Go syncs up with your existing TRACS Direct account. Must be a Reinhart Customer to utilize TRACS Direct and TRACS Direct To Go.

F O O D

B E V E R A G E

New Bedford, Massachusetts, is a hub for scallop fisheries in the United States, and 85% of Atlantic scallops in New England travel through New Bedford. One of the town's largest processors, Northern Wind, accounts for 17–20% of those scallops. Considering the volume, to keep a close eye on the sustainability of future scallop populations is a daunting task. For Northern Wind, this task is well worth it. The rules for finding sustainably sourced seafood vary from species to species and coast to coast, but ensuring your seafood choices have been responsibly maintained and managed is not impossible or unmanageable. “The biomass was estimated at 183 million pounds last year, and we’ve got a decrease of approximately 20 million pounds this year. So we should

86 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

harvest somewhere around 45 million pounds this year and 45 million next year,” said Ken of Northern Wind. The harvests are limited to these levels in order to ensure that their business, and the livelihood of the scallop industry, remains consistent and thriving. Fishing practices have undergone significant changes, and many are now stringently monitored, both by legislation and a wide variety of third-party certifications and reviews. One of the most critically monitored species of seafood in recent years has been scallops, and almost every variety sold in stores can be purchased with confidence. In particular, New England Atlantic Sea Scallops have proven to be a highly sustainable option. After being monitored closely

by a Days at Sea (DAS) program run by the U.S. government, scallop boats in this region are limited to a specific number of fishing days per year in government protected areas, and limited to trips lasting 8-10 days to avoid over fishing

(Northern Wind’s website). As of December of 2013, all U.S. Atlantic Scallop Fisheries, from Maine to North Carolina,

have been certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). The Marine Stewardship Council conducts third-party evaluations of participating seafood suppliers and guarantees that all seafood with their stamp of approval is assured sustainable. The MSC certification is a reliable guide, but many trustworthy fisheries forgo the certification due to its high costs. When it comes to farmed seafood, look to the Best Aquaculture Practices® (BAP) certification.

“We should harvest somewhere around 45 million pounds (of scallops) this year and 45 million next year.” – Ken, Northern Wind

In addition to MSC certifications, the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch® program has published one of the most in-depth and comprehensive seafood guides around. The Seafood Watch program developed a ranking system, from "best choice," "good alternative," and "avoid", for literally every type of seafood possible, every method of capture, and every location they are found. According to Seafood Watch standards, every type of scallop available, including farmed, wild caught, and dredged, has been

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B E V E R A G E

labeled as a "good alternative" or "best choice". Both the MSC and Seafood Watch have printable guides on their websites, as well as apps available for Android and iOS devices, making your next sensational scallop endeavor an unbeatable success. Scallops reach maturity at about two years old and typically live to be between 18 and 29 years old, according to a Seafood Watch report. Their relatively long lifespan coupled with a young age of maturation make Atlantic Sea Scallops particularly resilient to over fishing, meaning you should not have to worry about missing your favorite mollusks on your menu any time soon. Northern Wind offers the larger variety of sea scallops as well as the smaller bay scallops, both available fresh or frozen.

88 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014

The frozen scallops are inspected with the same quality standards as the fresh scallops, and all scallops passing through Northern Wind are processed the day they are caught. Whether that means they are shipped off fresh or frozen for later use, the Northern Wind staff believes that through following these strict standards, nothing is compromised with their frozen variety. The bay scallops offer a mild and enticing flavor that can be used universally. You’re likely to find bay scallops in casseroles, soups, and stews. Sea scallops are larger, more firm, and can stand alone as an appetizer or part of an entrée. The versatility offered from scallops is unlimited and should not be discounted.

While there is no one-size-fits all rule for purchasing sustainable seafood, it is difficult to beat scallops. Aside from being one of the most adaptable seafood products available, the confidence scallops offer in purchasing an earth and ocean friendly option is comforting. Fresh, frozen, sautéed or skewered, scallops remain second to none. n

O P E R A T I O N S

Options For the Season by Derek Exline

The dawn rises on a new day. The snow is finally gone (for most who endured a turbulent winter and spring). People are thinking about grilling season and al fresco dining. You’re thinking about what you’ll be grilling in the restaurant. Putting fire-grilled features on the menu for a limited time always brings in new customers. Then a thought occurs, “What am I going to put on that menu?” What sides can you pair with those dishes? How can you capitalize on seasonal items (or regional items)? And finally, how will you tell your customers about these new dishes?

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O P E R A T I O N S

e’ve all seen the “specials” menus at the big sit-down chains that convey some fully tested, market-approved theme that they spent millions focus testing. And then they spent thousands in designing a menu insert or special menu for these limited-time offers. So where do you go to get your “Griller’s Favorites” menu? Do you run to your computer and type a menu up in a word document? Tell your alcohol sales rep to get table tents made up for you? Enlist your kids’ help to design it for you?

Something Special We all have different ways that we take care of getting something ready to display those seasonal dishes that can’t last forever. Luckily, Reinhart has

new

solution.

Reinhart

Foodservice would like to formally introduce our loyal customers to the brand-new MenuHUB. Your Reinhart sales consultant is now able to help you get a Limited Time Offer menu put together on a template or your own custom design.

We usually have a 4-day

turnaround time for the first proof. You’ll have a variety of paper options and even laminations for your new Limited Time Offer menu. These options allow for a slicker look to your specials menu – making it truly special, not a crumpled piece of paper on top of your daily menu. Confidence in your specials means more playing with seasonal ingredients, satisfying your chef’s creative angst, and keeping things fresh for guests.

90 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2014