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moorabool valley • Bellarine Peninsula • surf coast
geelong’s ultimate wine festival • november 2-3 •
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Pinot Palooza Issue Two P•04
What’s in the Glass? The difference organic farming makes to wine. Campbell Burton P•06
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National People’s Choice 2018 Top 10 & Winner Anna Webster
東京 Tokyo Where to eat and drink? Anna Webster P•29
Pinot Globally Pinot Noir: it's a global thing. Melanie Brown, Stephen Wong, Suzie Chung & Andy Fenner P•37
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North Canterbury Nadia Bailey
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German Pinot Noir Mike Bennie
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May Chow Profile Anna Webster
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Revel Hall of Fame & Events
A lot can happen in a year. As I sit here writing this, I’m reflecting on the past twelve months and where we were this time last year and it seems fitting that we are about to embark on our second Japanese tour. Not only are we returning to Tokyo, we’ve also added Osaka to the Pinot Palooza roster. Whilst we may only appear tourists, to say we have fallen in love with this country is an understatement. (Read about our humble selection of favourite places on page 18!) In your hand you hold the second edition of the Pinot Palooza Magazine and I wholeheartedly welcome you to it. Within these pages you’ll read about a region where resilience and determination are not just embedded but a prerequisite, an area very close to our hearts: North Canterbury in New Zealand. Speaking of NZ, we interview this year’s People’s Choice winner Andrew Donaldson of Akitu, Central Otago, about his amazingly delicious wine and massive Pinot Palooza debut. Mike Bennie shows us how German Pinot Noir is on the rise and we hear from Andy Fenner on what is happening in South Africa before Suzie Chung tells us how South Korea is fast becoming a wine hub (*checks passport expiry*). Melanie Brown takes us to London, we learn about where NZ wine is going with Stephen Wong and profile May Chow – awarded Asia’s Best Female Chef. Campbell Burton reminds us how organic farming and looking after soil makes a massive difference to the flavour of wine. So again, welcome to not just this humble magazine, but to a global community of like-minded wine souls. Welcome to the Club. Make sure you try the wine. Dan Sims Founder / CEO Revel
W H O I S R E V E L ? You know us. We’re the artists formerly known as Bottle Shop Concepts – the team behind epic wine and food events including Pinot Palooza, Game of Rhones, MOULD – A Cheese Festival and Gauchito Gil’s Malbec Day. We’re hell-bent on creating fun, unique event experiences – especially around wine. But as this magazine will attest to, that’s not all we will do. Make sure you check us out, either via our website revel.global or Instagram @revel.global. C O N T R I B U T O R S : Nadia Bailey, Mike Bennie, Melanie Brown, Campbell Burton, Suzie Chung, Andy Fenner, Dan Sims, Anna Webster, Stephen Wong. R E V E L : 26 Sackville Street, Collingwood 3066 VIC. cheers@revel.global
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What's in the Glass?
One of my favourite things in life is learning and talking about organic farming and soil and how these translate into delicious wine. My first real wine education came while working at Tiffany’s Restaurant in Christchurch in 2003 and since then I’ve had an extraordinarily enjoyable journey working in restaurants and wineries in New Zealand, Australia, the UK, Spain and France. It was in 2008, while working in Melbourne, that I began to appreciate and acknowledge the difference that organic farming
and sensitive winemaking could have on what was in the glass. My appetite for tasting new things was insatiable (it still is) and there were a few key moments and bottles that year that irreversibly piqued my interest in the relationship between organic farming and great tasting wine. In 2013, my wife Charlotte and I found ourselves working with legendary farmer Claude Courtois in the Loire Valley. Claude showed us that the best way to make delicious wine is to start with delicious, balanced grapes and that the best way to grow delicious grapes is to have
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healthy soil, healthy vines and a healthy, biodiverse ecosystem in the vineyard. We realised that the most delicious, digestible and downright drinkable wines were the ones that contained organic grapes and nothing else. I can’t stress enough the joy I get when I taste wines from vineyards that have been farmed very well and without chemicals for several decades. The level of depth, intrigue and class is enough to take your breath away. The flavours are so brilliant and transfixing that I know I want to do this job for at least another 50 years.
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As much as technology has aided us in many ways there’s nothing that can replace or better organic produce and natural fermentation, particularly with respect to available nutrients and deliciousness.
FOR US TO HARVEST A VERY BEAUTIFUL & DELICIOUS GRAPE WE NEED A FEW THINGS: HEALTHY SOIL 01
This means organic farming, soil that is full of life, nutrients and microbes. This is VERY important. No synthetic herbicides, fungicides or pesticides. It also means minimising soil compaction. Why? Synthetic chemicals used in modern agriculture end up in your food (and wine) . They shorten the life cycle of the soil and they negatively affect fauna. They also make it very difficult for products like wine to ferment naturally and make the vines and fruit more susceptible to disease. The flip side is that when the soil is healthy, the sky is basically the limit – and this relates to all produce. Healthy, living soils allow for the proper uptake of nutrient to the plant. This makes the fruit taste better, have a better pH and thus more stability for the wine, and the plant is more disease resistant.
I’ve realised that I preferred the flavour, digestibility and vibrancy of wines that are unfiltered and preservative-free – wines that behave like food and that in turn are just so compatible with meals. I’ve begun to notice extra energy and matter in wines that have been grown organically and I’ve also learnt that to do this well takes a lot of work, a lot of belief and a lot of passion. It’s seriously
I’ll never forget the tomatoes we ate for lunch every day during vintage with Claude Courtois . They weren’t just great; they were unforgettable. I didn’t even know tomatoes could taste that good and I’m still talking about them nearly six years later. I’d also never seen wines ferment so well. Claude’s farm was such a wonderful example of what can happen when a farm is well run.
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challenging to make wine in this way and I have soaring admiration for the people that can do it well. It was through wines like these that I went from enjoying wine to being spellbound by wine. More than ever before, we should seek out and celebrate the farmers who are working like this. Whether we’re talking about a vigneron in Australia,
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This needs to start with organic farming. There are a number of environmental factors that can affect the grape harvest like powdery and downy mildew but chemicals aren’t the answer. There are a whole host of applications that can mitigate mildew like nettle teas, seaweed spray, silica or quartz. Plant-based treatments can strengthen cell walls, aid fermentation and allow the plant better balance. This all helps make great tasting grapes and the avoidance of chemical fungicides is immediately better for the environment. Most importantly, organic farming makes for much healthier produce. I realised some time ago that farmers who focussed on promoting life and working with nature as opposed to the other way around were the ones growing the best produce.
(or maybe the Languedoc in France) a vegetable grower in Sunbury or a dairy farmer in Far North Queensland, it’s these organic and biodynamic producers who are generally working on a smaller scale and with greater risk. The rewards are an immediate benefit for the environment, and significantly healthier and tastier food for the consumer.
I’d put it to you to really explore the world of organically-farmed wine. Take the time to record, remember and, most importantly, celebrate the bottles that stop you in your tracks. Speak to the producer, find out how it was farmed, find out exactly how it was made, find out what was added to the wine (if anything) and then tell that organic farmer how much you enjoyed the produce and wine that they spent all year growing. Believe me, for every bottle of organic wine and every biodynamic apple or grapefruit, there was a farmer who decided to take a risk for the consumer and for the environment – it’s seriously challenging for the small scale organic farmer and, as beneficiaries of their work, we need to shout from the rooftops how much we appreciate it.
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National People's Choice AKITU // CHARTERIS & SHAW + SMITH // MOONDARRA // GOLDEN CHILD // VINTELOPER // GIANT STEPS // JOSEF CHROMY // STEFANO LUBIANA // ASHTON HILLS // BECKER WINES
At every Pinot Palooza event since our inception in 2012, we’ve asked people to vote for their favourite wine on the day. With 14,000 attendees across 11 cities in 5 countries voting for their Top 10, it’s a wonderful way to celebrate all the different styles and regions we champion and respect. It’s a great representation of Pinot Palooza: what we stand for and why we do it. We are proud to present the Top 10 for 2018. PP–02
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AKITU Central Otago
NEW ZEALAND
Andrew Donaldson found the pinot siren song so strong that he threw in a successful career in financial engineering and returned to his hometown of Wanaka in order to make his own. Turns out it was a smart move – Donaldson took out the National People’s Choice competition for 2018; his first ever Pinot Palooza tour. A phenomenal effort from the whole Akitu team!
akitu.wine
CHARTERIS Central Otago
NEW ZEALAND
SHAW + SMITH Adelaide Hills AUSTRALIA
S A
Second place was a draw between Central Otago’s Charteris and the Adelaide Hills’ Shaw + Smith. Charteris, by PJ and Chrissi Charteris (our favourite pinot power couple) came in at number 9 on the list in 2017, and we’re stoked to see them climb even higher in 2018. We’re equally stoked to see such a good result for Shaw + Smith – another Pinot Palooza veteran.
charteriswines.com.au
shawandsmith.com
MOONDARRA Gippsland
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Our reigning champion from 2017 is still making some of the best pinot noir around as far as we’re concerned. If you can’t place his name, Moondarra winemaker Neil Prentice is all big smiles and floppy hats and is just as likely to be found shoeless on the dancefloor cutting a move to New Order’s Blue Monday as he is behind his stand pouring wine.
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moondarra.com.au
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GOLDEN CHILD Adelaide Hills
VINTELOPER Adelaide Hills
S A
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James Hamilton from Golden Child came in 10th in 2017 – his first year at Pinot Palooza – flying up the ranks to 4th place in 2018. This is down to more than just beginner’s luck; there’s some real talent here. We see bright things in this young gun’s winemaking future, perhaps starting with a People’s Choice victory in 2020? It’s on you to make it happen!
David Bowley is no stranger to the People’s Choice Top 10, coming in at second place in 2017 and 2015 – and first place in 2016. He consistently performs well in the individual city competitions too – particularly in his hometown of Adelaide – proving that you all love his wine just as much as we do.
goldenchildwines.com.au
GIANT STEPS Yarra Valley
AUSTRALIA
vinteloper.com.au
JOSEF CHROMY Relbia
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This Yarra Valley winery is the result of Phil Sexton, originally a pioneer of the Australian craft beer industry, and Steve Flamsteed, originally a chef, who came together in 2003 to create beautiful wines. While we’d never admit to having favourites, we do find ourselves drinking Giant Steps wines at Pinot Palooza HQ quite often. You obviously agree – otherwise it wouldn’t be number six on the national list!
Josef Chromy’s upbringing was very different to most Australian winemakers, having emigrated to Tasmania from his war-torn Czech village as a penniless 19-year-old in 1950. He was instrumental in the growth of the Tasmanian wine industry where he owned and developed Bay of Fires , Janzs and Tamar Ridge wineries. Today, his eponymous winery remains in good hands, helmed by winemaker Jeremy Dineen.
giantstepswine.com.au
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josefchromy.com.au
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STEFANO LUBIANA Granton
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ASHTON HILLS Adelaide Hills
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Stefano “Steve” Lubiana and his wife Monique own and run their biodynamic vineyard in Granton, about 20 minutes north of Hobart. The wines they produce are truly delicious, absolutely speaking of their little patch of dirt on Australia’s island state. If you haven’t tried their wines before then do yourself a favour and seek them out.
We knew there was something special about the Adelaide Hills – and four winemakers in the Top 10 proves it. It’s great to see Ashton Hills at number 9, with wines grown from a site in the Piccadilly Valley originally planted and tended by Stephen George, now run by Wirra Wirra with George still overseeing operations.
slw.com.au
BECKER WINES Hunter Valley
In 2018 we broke Pinot Palooza records – with our biggest events in Melbourne, Auckland, Perth, Brisbane and Wellington. We also visited Asia for the first time with events in Tokyo and Hong Kong. Every city we visited had its own personality, vibe and experience and even though 2018 will be hard to top, the 2019 tour is set to be our biggest yet! We are visiting 13 cities across 6 countries so keep an eye on the Pinot Palooza website and social media for updates.
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Husband and wife team James and Meagan Becker make wine in both the Hunter Valley and in California. Based in New South Wales, they make the journey to the USA every year to play around with interesting fruit and be inspired. Becker is definitely one of the most interesting producers at Pinot Palooza – it’s great to see them make the Top 10 in 2018.
beckerwines.com.au
ashtonhills.com.au
pinotpalooza.com.au INSTAGRAM @PinotPalooza FACEBOOK
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/PinotPalooza
Don't DRINK wine...
SAVOUR IT.
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People’s Choice Winner
2018
Andrew Donaldson CENTRAL OTAGO
NEW ZEALAND
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Few grape varietals have the same lure that pinot noir has. That siren song that causes stronger men and women than you or I to throw in successful careers in medicine or law, plant a vineyard and try to forge one in wine. For Andrew Donaldson, from Central Otago’s Akitu, it was a job in finance (financial engineering to be precise) that was discarded, and many bottles of Burgundy over many years in London that were the cause.
fairly natural product, can actually perform as dynamically as that after sitting in sealed glass for quite a few years. I still find that really quite a mythical and marvelous gift and I guess that's why I became much more interested in pinots than the other varieties. I was completely seduced.”
Donaldson’s initiation into wine came via hospitality jobs he held while at university, where he developed a taste for red wine. His initiation into pinot happened later. While living and working in London, he accepted an invitation from an older colleague to join him in the grandstand at the first test at the Lord’s Cricket Ground. “He only had one rule,” says Donaldson, “and that was that he drank Burgundy before lunch and Bordeaux after lunch.” The man – who would ultimately become a great friend of Donaldson – would bring hampers packed with delicious bottles of French wine and other delicacies to the cricket, and together they’d watch the match while they ate and drank. This continued for eight years and over that time Donaldson was exposed to some of the great Burgundies, including Dujac , Rousseau and Romanée-Conti. It was while drinking a bottle of great Burgundy that Donaldson had his first “magical moment”. “We were drinking a bottle and watching the cricket and all of a sudden the taste seemed to
change. I asked my friend if he’d opened a different bottle,” says Donaldson. “He laughed and said, No – that’s what a great pinot noir can do!” “And that really intrigued me,” he continues, “I was like how can this wine, this fermented grape juice, physiologically change so much that over the course of an hour of cracking it that it’s going to show to you two or three different sides of itself?” “I find it an absolutely magical gift that this very simply made,
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But it wasn’t just the Dujac. Donaldson was born in Wanaka, Central Otago, on New Zealand’s South Island, so perhaps a career in wine was inevitable. “I always wanted to end up back in Wanaka, one way or another,” says Donaldson, “and in a funny coincidence, my absolute favorite place in the world was becoming the most exciting region in the world to produce my favourite wine variety. I had to do it.” In 1999, Donaldson sold the land he owned in Wanaka and bought a larger block about a kilometre away from it. He set up a company, Hawkesbury Estates (named after his grandfather’s house in Wanaka which was named after Australia’s Hawkesbury River) to own the land, but it wasn’t until 2012 that the Akitu label was born.
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Akitu is a Maori word meaning ‘the summit, the apex, the highest point’ – a reference to Wanaka’s altitude of 380m above sea level. It also refers to the marginality of the site – the best fruit is usually the last picked, which Donaldson says is terrifying but yields results.
The only varietal Donaldson grows is pinot noir – which for him is like growing multiple varietals “because it’s crazy and different every single, solitary year”. With no real winemaking background or training, he relies on Dr David Jordan, who wrote the original assessment of the site in 2001, viticulturist Steve Blackmore who has helped him run the vineyard since 2004 and fellow Central Otagian PJ Charteris (from Charteris Wines) to help him make the wine. Although he’s not completely organic (yet) due to the quality of the fruit in Central Otago,
Donaldson rarely has to employ non-organic practices and believes that the best wines are made with as little intervention as possible. “Those great vintages that you read about in books… the winemakers always sort of shrug their shoulders when they’re asked about the wine and they say ‘I didn't really have to do anything.’ And that’s because they’re working with pristine, immaculate fruit,” says Donaldson. He believes that Wanaka and his connection to it is the reason he’s making wine at all. “I was in love with pinot, but nothing
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would have happened if Wanaka hadn’t become such an incredibly interesting place to grow fantastic fruit, that could then go on to make fantastic pinot noir,” he says. “Wanaka got me into this rather than pinot brought me to Wanaka; it wasn't the other way around.”
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Next-Gen pinots from a traditional family winery. The Henschkes, who ran through vineyards, helped to pick grapes and sank their feet into ferments as children proudly lead this South Australian stalwart. The fifth and sixth generations of Henschke winemakers hold extensive viticultural qualifications, have travelled throughout world-renowned winemaking regions and carry wide-ranging sommelier and wine-judging experience, as well as knowledge of innovative environmental technologies that make for sustainable growing practices. Fifth-generation Stephen and Prue Henschke planted their Lenswood vineyard in 1981, trialing coolclimate varieties that were better suited to the steep slopes of the Adelaide Hills than their home in the Eden Valley. While much has evolved in the Henschke’s 150 years, the family still rely on – and proudly use – many of the traditional approaches, such as open-top fermentation used since 1868, in their winey today.
Henschke Cellar Door 1428 Keyneton Road, Keyneton, South Australia henschke.com.au
Henschke Johanne Ida Selma Blanc de Noir MD
Henschke Giles Pinot Noir 2017
Henschke The Alan Pinot Noir 2015
This complex, uplifting multivintage, mature disgorged blanc de noir is crafted from handselected pinot noir at Lenswood in the Adelaide Hills. Carrying a pale-gold colour and the aromas of the surrounding orchards and blossoms, it finishes with longlasting flavours of ginger spice with bright, red currant acidity.
Vibrant, fresh and refined this pure pinot noir stands sassy and assertive among its peers. Packing concentrated flavours of wild berries with the lifted, spicy aromas of cinnamon and dried herbs, the underlying fennel nuances carry through to a long, savoury finish of silky and fine tannins.
This hand-selection from the Henschke Lenswood vineyard is rich, deep and brooding, with spicy black cherry, red currant and wild forest fruits balanced by complex herbal notes and a hint of anise. Rich and textural, this wine oozes style with incredible length and velvety tannins.
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In a state known more for its traditional, warmer-region robust reds like shiraz and cabernet, wine writer Tony Love delves into the variety with a genuine affinity for cooler climate conditions As you criss-cross the region you see all the hints that the Adelaide Hills are the right place: fresh air and vibrant seasons; multiple aspects on slopes facing north, south, east and west; cherry, apple and pear orchards, and the global success of its chardonnays, which go hand in hand with fine pinot noir. Tucked into those gullies, or clinging to side of those slopes, scores of cellar doors reveal the broad spectrum of vineyard variation and winemaking styles that excite pinot noir fans.
Pinot Noir has found a natural home in the Adelaide Hills. Ashton Hills embodies this philosophy and the history and essence of Adelaide Hills pinot in its tiny corrugated iron shedlike cellar door that is a must do if you’re keen on the variety. This is where one of the region’s pioneering pinot winemakers Stephen George creates his magic from five main clones and countless small batches right next to where visitors perch themselves with glass in hand to gaze over the entrancing view of Mount Lofty in the distance.
@adelhillswine /adelaidehillswine /adelaidehillswine adelaidehillswine.com.au/immerse
Murdoch Hill is one of the newest cellar doors to open, a stylish and intimate tasting room and deck set in a painterly biggum landscape outside Oakbank. Multiple awarded Young Gun winemaker Michael Downer and cellar door manager, brother Andrew, create a highly focused – and unique - pinot exploration that includes pinot gris, pinot meunier and pinot noir in a master flight offering – there’s even a blend of all three for a brighter up-front fruiter style.
Sidewood Estate’s cellar door at Maximillian’s Restaurant complex in Verdun also offers a more structured mini-masterclass flight of five wines starting with their pinot dominant Isabella sparkling, followed by three very limited release single-clone wines, the rare and ethereal Abel clone, the inaugural release of the Oberlin clone and the more robust 777 clone, finishing up with an estate blend. All are served with matching and seasonal canapes – which make for a great start to lunch as well. Perhaps best known for highlighting pinot in the region’s most lauded bubbles, Deviation Road’s annual pinot table wine adds a little red to their tasting line-up. A strong focus on wine education at their newly refurbished cellar door is a perfect gateway to the region, tucked into a beautiful amphitheatre of vines in the outskirts of Stirling. Shaw + Smith is a top-shelf attraction for wine lovers, their
timelessly elegant cellar door tasting rooms offer an elite experience across two structured flights matched with a regional cheese selection or a more expansive Hills produce plate. The winery’s two high country, Lenswood sub-regional pinots are placed in deliberate context with its other famous Hills sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and shiraz offerings, the limited release being an excitingly perfumed block selection that is a style and regional highlight. Pike & Joyce leaves you in no doubt you are close to the clouds in the Lenswood district, with its cellar door, restaurant and outdoor courtyard perched to take in extreme sloping vineyards and a never-ending landscape. Those vineyards provide the pinot on their wine list, from a quirky sparkling rose blend, their regular Vue du Nord and more broadshouldered WJJ Reserve. On the other side of this hilltop sits Anderson Hill, this
time facing to the northwest where you can see as far as the Barossa – a clear reminder of how the Hills’ wide-ranging vineyard aspects can change within cooee of each other. The secret here is not only their stylistically varied pinot, but its location right at the top entrance to globally renowned Fox Creek Mountain Bike Park, making it a great spot to unwind, have a weekend woodoven pizza, and taste away. The Hills is undoubtedly an outdoors attraction all year round, celebrated at Golding Wines with their extraordinary Nido Experience, a private group tasting, with shared meal, a total wine and vine immersion and personal valet at a designer “nest” seating 4-6, high on their Lobethal vineyard. Feel like taking yourself outside the normal cellar door experience? Book in for a Wine Safari tour stopping off at various platforms through the vineyard. There are six wideranging flight choices as well, including “For the Love of
Pinot”, a past, present and future look across several vintages and styles. On the other hand, the latest beverage venue in the Hills is Lot 100, situated near the town of Nairne. This is a huge party-like destination that brings together a bunch of beverage types, and is the newly adopted home for Vinteloper wines and their Pinot Palooza winning styles. After a long day tasting across the region, finish here for a flight and a bite. There’s a fun vibe across the whole venue and a fitting Adelaide Hills finishing touch.
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TO K YO
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どこで食べたり飲んだりする W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Tokyo is widely considered to be the best city to eat in by chefs, restaurateurs and industry-types across the world and for us it’s no exception. So, when we took Pinot Palooza to Tokyo for the first time in May 2018, we made sure to leave plenty of space in our itinerary to visit the city’s culinary hotspots. While this list is by no means definitive, here’s where we ate and drank and would happily recommend. 20 –19
TON K ATSU とんかつ 01.
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MAISEN
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MaiSen is one of the best known of Tokyo’s tonkatsu joints and certainly has the biggest range. Choose your cut (loin, fillet, etc.) from six different breeds of pork (from prime Okita-Kurobuta to MaiSen’s own Amai-Yuwaku) and it’ll arrive crumbed and deep-fried with a side of shaved cabbage. Tonkatsu and other sauces are already on your table for dipping.
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Food writer Dani Valent was taken to Katsukura by a friend who’d made it her mission to find the best tonkatsu in Tokyo – and passed on this recommendation to us. Located on the 14th floor of the Takashimaya department store, there are less options for deepfried pork than at MaiSen but the crumb is lighter, the meat juicier, and the condiments plentiful.
TO TRY
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The tonkatsu here is less refined than the others we tried, but for flavour and atmosphere, Tonki wins hands down. The only thing served here is tonkatsu, and there are just two options – the rosu-katsu (fatty) and the hire-katsu (lean). Both are delicious, both are the same price and both come with the same sides – like tonjiru (pork and miso soup), shaved cabbage, a wedge of tomato and a blob of fiery mustard.
試してみてください。
Butagumi for high-end tonkatsu.
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TON KI
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R AM EN 04.
ICHIRAN
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The ramen at Ichiran is delicious, but what this joint is best known for is its booths. The story goes that when owner Mr. Yoshitomi was a student, he noticed that many of his female friends were ashamed to be seen eating ramen and would hide their mouths while doing so. When Yoshitomo set up Ichiran, he in-stalled individual booths so that his customers could eat in private. Whether or not it adds to your enjoyment of the ramen itself, eating here remains an interesting experience.
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AFURI
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It was almost 15 years ago that the original Afuri opened, bringing its trademark yuzu-infused ramen to the streets of Ebisu. And although multiple locations have spawned since, it remains one of the city’s most popular bowls. Choose either the shio (salt) or shōyu (soy sauce) base to your yuzu ramen and enjoy it topped with half an egg, a thick slice of grilled chāshū pork and a smattering of yuzu peel. 20 –19
ラ ー メ ン
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PIZZ A ピザ 06.
SEIRINKAN
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Japan does everything better – and that includes pizza. Two pies are available at Seirinkan, margherita and marinara, and although there are sides and antipasto available, the pizza is so good that it’s all you’re going to want. David Chang agrees… Seirinkan features in his pizza episode of Ugly Delicious.
テンプラ
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YA M A N O U E T E M P U R A
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The original opened in 1954 in Kanda-Tokyo, but we ate at the brand new outlet high up in the Tokyo Midtown complex. Sitting around the bar, the chef dipped thick white asparagus, eggplant crescents, baby onion halves and chunks of lotus root into a light tempura batter, frying it to crisp perfection before placing each piece, one at a time, on a metal grate in front of us, ready for dipping into a mixture of dashi, mirin and soy sauce and a sprinkling of salt. Yamanoue isn’t cheap, but there are few meals as luxurious. Do it. Order the champagne. PP–02
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CONVEN I ENC E STOR ES Convenience stores (or conbini as they’re known in Japan) are located on literally every block in Tokyo. There are three major players – Lawson, FamilyMart and 7-Eleven – and while they are (at least superficially) similarly stocked with onigiri, lollies and sweets, instant noodles, canned coffee, whiskies, beer and sake and so on, each chain has different specialties.
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LAWSON
In Australia, you’ve got to be pretty desperate to buy fried chicken from a convenience store. But at Lawson, where it’s cooked on-site and served as either honetsuki (fried bone-in chicken), honenashi (fried boneless chicken) or kara-age (deep-fried chicken nuggets), it’s something you’ll seek out with purpose. Grab an Asahi Style Free beer to drink with it.
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F A M I LY M A R T
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All of Tokyo’s conbinis do sandos (sandwiches) well, but the best (in our opinion) can be found at FamilyMart. The egg sando – rich, creamy egg cushioned between pillowy triangles of white, crustless bread – is essential; but they also do a mean katsu (deepfried pork) sando too.
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コ ン ビ ニ
7- E L E V E N
With over 20,000 locations across Tokyo, 7-Eleven is the largest of the convenience store chains. As it’s generally considered to have the best food overall, it’s the best place for conbini staples like onigiri (if you can’t read Japanese choosing onigiri is a fun, delicious lucky dip), Ippudo instant ramen, bento boxes, sweets and ice cream.
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W I N E BAR & B ISTRO
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OUT R E S TA U R A N T
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This tiny 10-seater only serves fresh pasta with truffles, red wine and only plays Led Zeppelin on the stereo. It’s by Australian restaurateurs David Mackintosh, Sarah Crago, and Tom Crago; who, inspired by one of their own dinner parties, decided such a niche concept could only work in Tokyo. It does.
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十 一
LE CABARET
This wine bar and bistro in Shibuya is a key player in Tokyo’s natural wine scene. There’s no wine list; instead the sommelier will ask you what you want to drink, and once your glass has been poured the bottle will be left on the table. The menu is filled with French bistro classics: think rillettes with cornichons, bowls of mussels or pipis, fresh oysters and grilled sardines.
12.
PAT H
十 二
Path is a very cool, all-day café-cum-diner; renowned for brunch up until about 2pm before it transforms into an Italian-leaning bistro dishing up pastas and fried gizzards alongside natural wines and craft beer. Seating is limited, with just a few tables up the back and along the bar – although there’s standing room near the front. 20 –19
ワ イ ン バ ー と ビ ス ト ロ
14.
AH IRU STORE
十 四
Another star in Tokyo’s natural wine scene is Ahiru Store, but if you want to go you’ll need to go early or be seriously prepared to queue. Once you’re in, it’s mostly standing room at this tiny, neighbourhood bar – unless you’re lucky enough to nab a spot around one of the two wine barrels. A blackboard displays the day’s food menu, and empty bottles displaying the available wines are lined up on shelves. Absolutely worth a visit, but you must go early.
15.
LONGR AIN
十 五
Another Australian export, Longrain is the second restaurant that owner Sam Christie has opened in Tokyo (he also owns the Apollo; which he opened in Ginza in 2016). If you’re a fan of Longrain, you’ll be pleased to see the same Australian take on Thai cuisine at the Ebisu iteration as you will at the Melbourne location, but this time it’s delivered 39 floors up with stunning views over Tokyo. We know what we prefer.
飲食 16.
十 六
W I N E S TA N D W A LT Z
This wine bar is even smaller than Ahiru Store, with standing room only for about eight patrons. Its owner is Yasuhiro Ooyama, known locally as the wine professor, who serves an eclectic mix of Japanese and European natural wines from his Ebisu bar. A great, pre-dinner spot.
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ÂN DI
17.
十 七
18.
Owner Motohiro Okoshi has worked as a sommelier at some of Tokyo’s best, so it follows that the wine at his restaurant, Ân Di, is pretty spectacular. Like lots of eateries in Japan, the space is small and industrial in vibe. The food is Vietnamese but with Japanese influence, seen in dishes like horse meat bánh xèo with fermented garlic, citrus and kaffir lime.
試 し て み て く だ さ い
I Z A K AYA V I N
十 八
This gem sits smack-bang in Shibuya, right near the station, and is the sort of place you’d walk by without a thought unless you knew what it was. But, stop, inside you’ll find one of the city’s best old world wine lists – think Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny and Champagne de Sousa. The food is French, ranging from smaller dishes like pâté on cognac-infused figs to larger dishes like duck confit, but served in very Japanese setting.
TO TRY 'Bill’s' and 'Fratelli Paradiso' are also by Australian restaurateurs... we definitely recommend you hit them up if you’re in need of a taste of home while you’re away.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGR APH ERS Jonathan van der Knaap → jonathanvdk.com
Josie Withers josiewithers.com ←
20 –19
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Pinot Globally Pinot Noir: it's a global thing. Here is the part of the pinot noir story where we refer to Burgundy, pay homage, and recognise that it’s the spiritual home of the grape we know and love. So there, we’ve done it. Let’s move on. Yes, we love Burgundy (of course we do!) but pinot noir has travelled far and wide, made new homes and explored an array of cultures, cities and towns across the globe. Burgundy is indeed a major pinot destination, but as we all know, the adventure lies within the journey. Within these pages, you’re going to read about pinot noir from a global perspective: a check in of sorts from our writer, sommelier and wine-lover mates about regions we think you should know more about, destinations to explore and cities that are on the wish list. So, the question is: where will you pinot? Dan Sims Founder / CEO Revel
20 –19
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England
Pinot Globally
London’s ‘state of Pinot Noir’! Written by Melanie Brown specialistcellars.co.uk
At a time where Old World examples are becoming increasingly unattainable, our enthusiastic wine bunch are turning to fresh and enticing examples from the New World. We’re seeing an inquisitive new wave of wine drinkers in UK: a generation of Millennials and Gen Xers who love to splash their cash on wine experiences over what was once the necessity of ‘en primeur’.
Pinot sales dominate our red wine sales by a country mile and it certainly helps that pinot is a grape that’s relatively easy to understand, process and taste – as fickle as it may be in the vineyard. New World pinot noir gives consumers an intuitive, bright and approachable experience whilst simultaneously acting as a gateway to the world of red wine.
New Zealand and Australia manage to inadvertently captivate consumers with their ability to extend conversations far beyond the likes of scores and medals to connect directly with consumers. This advantageous attitude gives them personality and relatability and our little corner of the pinot world continues to flourish in their honour.
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South Korea A Love of Pinot Noir South Korean wine culture has been developing since just before the Seoul Olympic Games in 1988 when the Korean government opened the gates to the international wine industry. Prior to that, only 11 importers and distributors had a license to deal with wines and less than US $20,000 worth of wine was imported into Korea. Today around 250 wine importers are active in South Korea, bringing in US $237 million worth.
Pinot Globally
South Korea is a red wine dominant market and like other wine drinking countries, (and thanks to the movie Sideways) Koreans love pinot noir. The only problem is that pinot noir is too seductive and expensive to drink as often as we wish!
Korean cuisine has very complex flavours and a particularly distinctive umami. Pinot noir has softer tannins than cabernet sauvignon (which is the most popular red grape in Korea) making it easier for neophytes to drink. In autumn, when forests give us full-flavored wild mushrooms such as pine mushrooms and shiitake, there’s nothing better than drinking pinot noir – especially when the mushrooms have been grilled with Korean beef. We love to eat grilled pork belly and chicken, and also eat various spicy and hot foods to release daily stress. All these foods pair well with pinot noir. It gives us eternal joy with its complex flavours developed with age. Koreans who love pinot noir drink it from all over the world – France, Germany, Austria, USA, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Chile and so on. However, the favourite for most is Burgundy - from village to cru. The power of GevreyChambertin and the elegance of Chambolle-Musigny are hard to resist. There is a Korean wine grower who makes Lou Dumont wines in Burgundy and the wines sell well here. There are a few Burgundy-focused importers and distributors in Korea too, who, because of price rises, are also looking for lesser known villages and districts such as Dijon.
Pinot noir from the USA represents great value and many labels are best sellers as everyday wine. There are also many New Zealand pinot noir wines which are very popular, including Clos Henri, Sileni, Seresin, Felton Road, Cloudy Bay, Ata Rangi, Dog Point and Saint Clair. Australian pinot noir, especially from Western Australia and Tasmania, is growing in popularity too. Chilean pinot noir has become more precise and sophisticated than before. Serious Korean wine lovers also indulge in premium pinot noir from Austria, Germany and South Africa. Natural wines are also becoming more widely consumed. Korean nature is itself a little spicy! We love to eat and drink together, and typical Korean cuisine requires a refreshing and versatile wine like pinot noir. That’s why pinot noir wines have become so loved in South Korea.
Written by Suzie Chung wine21.com 20 –19
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South Africa
Pinot Globally
Drinking differently in South Africa Something has been happening in South Africa over the recent years. A wind of change. Much like the winds that blow through the vineyards we’ll be talking about below, it cannot be ignored. People are drinking differently. Let’s back up a bit. The wine landscape in South Africa has a rich history but a boring one. Big reds. Old school reds. Reds full of tannins that conjure up images of the farms they were made on. Colonial buildings with high gables. Thick carpets, massive fireplaces. Leather. A ridgeback. Two ridgebacks. A box of cigars, somewhere. Written by Andy Fenner ffmm.co.za That’s changing though. The new age South African wine drinker is being introduced to much lighter styles and varietals like cinsault, grenache, gamay and pinot noir. There’s a fresh bunch of young-gun winemakers on the scene focused on channeling the real character of a vineyard into the end wine. You’re more likely to catch them surfing or building smokers in their backyard than perched in a cane chair on their porch. One man responsible for this new wave is David Cope. Not content with just producing his own wine (the hugely popular Alphabetical; a red blend which has now spun off into a white and a rosé), David also runs Publik Wine Bar. From branches in Johannesburg and Cape Town, Publik sells wines that are interesting and delicious. This intersection is the holy grail for any serious wine drinker and Cope has nailed it. “That’s the sweet spot for us,” he confirms. “Either side of it and you’re left with something rather boring or something that is cool but compromised in terms of drinkability.” Unearthing these wines and introducing people to them is Publik’s greatest strength. Cope has a growing distribution business too, which has allowed open-minded restaurateurs to showcase a much larger range of wines. PP–02
That’s an important point because food is changing too. Those big reds from years gone by suited a type of food. Big plates of meat essentially; smeared with rich, reduced sauces. Cabernet sauvignon. Merlot. Shiraz. Pinotage. These wines were all very comfortable sitting alongside these plates. Probably on a white tablecloth.
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That’s an important point because food is changing too. Those big reds from years gone by suited a type of food. Big plates of meat essentially; smeared with rich, reduced sauces. Cabernet sauvignon. Merlot. Shiraz. Pinotage. These wines were all very comfortable sitting alongside these plates. Probably on a white tablecloth. But just like the new winemakers, there’s a new generation of chefs. Young bloods with no egos. These guys share suppliers, recipes and ideas. They are steering South African food in a new direction and wine – through Publik and places like it – is playing a part in that. The restaurant scene is tough in Cape Town right now and standards are as high as they ever have been. “An easy way to differentiate your offering is a well-considered wine list, with things that stand out from the norm,” explains Cope. A simple policy that makes total sense.
At The Commissary, for example, Wesley Randles is slinging small plates with clean, fresh flavours and high acidity. The wine reflects this. Cope agrees and also points to Eike and Spek+Bone (both by Bertus Basson) as well as Marble (in Jo’burg, now being curated by Wikus Human) as other good lists to watch out for.
It was unheard of a few years ago that a bunch of South African men would be standing around the braai, drinking red wine. But that’s what’s happening. Don’t get me wrong – there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a boerewors roll and a cold beer. But pinot noir, and other newer varietals, opens up all kinds of food pairings due to its versatility. Slow roast a pork shoulder, tear it into chunks and dress it with fish sauce and guess what? A glass of pinot works just fine. So does a slightly weightier pinot with a classic steak and frites. This exciting new world has been brought in with that gentle wind of change. And the wind is picking up. 20 –19
There is still room for the traditionalists and if you are looking for the best execution of pinot noir in South Africa it’s still, for the time being, a straight shoot-out between the Hemel-En-Aarde Valley and Elgin. The latter is represented by powerhouses like Oak Valley, Paul Cluver and slightly smaller producers like Catherine Marshall. All are fantastic and deserve credit. Most locals still agree however, that Crystallum is king. With brothers Andrew and Peter-Allan Finlayson at the helm, these third-generation producers and are just absolutely crushing it. Cope describes their Mabalel as “intriguing but beautiful”, with the Cuvée Cinema being slightly weightier; a bit more classic.
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New Zealand
Pinot Globally
Where is New Zealand Pinot going? New Zealand pinot noir, although not blessed with the centuries-old history of some of the great wines of the world, is one of the country’s most well-established varieties. Marked for decades by great wines from many still-respected estates like Ata Rangi, Dry River, Pegasus Bay and Neudorf, it changed little until the late 90s and early 2000s when blockbuster fruit-driven and powerful styles emerged from the Central Otago region. New Zealand wine has continued to evolve over the past decade and a half and even bastions of the classic styles like Martinborough and North Canterbury have seen a shift towards a more ‘current’ style of pinot noir. What has changed, and what has contributed to this evolution? New clones? At one stage, clonal material was considered the great new hope but as vines have matured and settled into their environs, this has proven to be less significant than had previously been assumed. Some vignerons, like Wilco and Dry River and the team at Pyramid Valley, believe that the rootstock vines potentially play an even more important part, as New Zealand does not yet have the right rootstock vines to suit limestone soils and low-yielding terroirs. At 20-30 years of age, our vineyards are approaching adolescence and the resulting wines are also changing. The fruit is tempered with complexity and subtlety – not just from the vineyard but in the winery. Confidence in winemaking and a better understanding of their grapes have allowed winemakers to exert a lighter hand with less new oak. These are generally less extracted wines with lower alcohol and more elegant, complex structure due to improved viticulture and the influence of organics. PP–02
Written by Stephen Wong winesentience.com
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Generally, maceration times have come down: where the standard winemaking practice in NZ was to destem the fruit and have extended cuvaison of 25-28 days, it’s now more often 21-28 days with rising use of whole-bunch (though it is not for everyone!) This has resulted in more transparent, delicate, effusive and gentle wines rather than the intense blockbusters of yesteryear.
The limestone-influenced regions of Waikari, Waitaki and Central Hawke’s Bay have been strong contributors to the pinot noir story and have forced winemakers to reconsider the balance of the grape variety and how it can display on the palate. Once regarded as the source of sparkling wine base and fruity, slightly simple pinot noir, Marlborough now boasts fantastic pockets of the varietal in the Southern Valleys which have inspired producers like Churton, Folium, Te Whare Ra, Fromm, Giesen and Corofin to explore the possibility of a Cru and climate system. In the manner of the Côte d’Or, many of these producers are making wines from these vines alongside each other and this is being reflected on their labels. Will the day come when we understand the character of a Clayvin in the same way as we do a Ruchottes-Chambertin, the vineyard taking centre-stage regardless of which producer has farmed the fruit and made the wine?
Lastly, winemakers are also navigating what it means to be a pinot noir from Waipara, Martinborough or indeed Wanaka. At one stage, emulating the great wines of France was the inspiration. About a decade ago, a movement began to emerge that rejected emulation declaring that NZ pinot noir shouldn’t taste like Burgundy – embrace the fruit, embrace the exuberance of the New World, they cried! Like all things that swing and sway, styles are now re-turning towards a more Burgundian elegance with a lightness of flavour yet more confident structure. Freshness, complexity and poise are appearing in the wines, just as the wine from Burgundy itself is changing subtly – influenced as it is by the New World. 20 –19
We live in interesting times for pinot noir. Where will we go next?
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Written By: NADIA BAILEY
NORTH CANTERBURY: Words From: PENELOPE NAISH & VIC TUTTON
THE CALL OF THE VALLEY
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Translation: Maori → RAKI-WAITAHA
If you want to get a sense of North Canterbury, an area located toward the top end of New Zealand’s South Island and neighbouring Christchurch city, just ask Black Estate’s Penelope Naish. “The early pioneers in the region have all been great characters,” she says. You get the feeling that since those early days, things have only gotten more singular.
Naish grew up in Christchurch and now, along with her partner Nicholas Brown, calls the three-vineyard estate in the Waipara Valley her home. “People who grow wine in North Canterbury are truly passionate — the marginal climate means it’s not a place where you just start planting a whole lot of grapes for mass production, like in Marlborough.” Instead, the region attracts small, passionate growers who are looking to do things their own way. “It’s such a great community. We don’t have huge, big, industrial producers out here so that never rubs off on anyone.” She pauses for a second. “I mean, there are a couple of corporates, but we don’t really see them.”
• • • • • • • • • •
That sense of independence, of tightknit small town community, is baked into the region. Partly it’s because winegrowers tend to be, as Naish puts it, great characters. Partly it’s because in the face of tragedy, you have no choice but to come together. Naish was in Christchurch the day the earthquake hit in 2011. She saw both the immediate devastation and the aftermath — they way that the community rallied to support each other, the great resilience which emerged as a result of the disaster. “Everyone just got on with it,” says Naish. “You just have to. To be honest, I felt so privileged to have been through it. I know that sounds really weird, but a lot of good did come out of it.” She thinks the way in which the community came together in 2011 has a direct correlation with how they have responded to the recent tragedy of the Christchurch shooting. “It’s been devastating — but I think Christchurch will be okay,” she says. “The amazing thing is the love that has flowed out of it. We have a patience and are able to give love rather than being reactionary.”
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On a long, thin block of land on the south bank of the Waipara River, Vic Tutton and her partner Lindsay Hill have been growing vines for over 30 years. She too emphasises that North Canterbury is a place that attracts winemakers of an independent bent. “There’s no rules, no expectations,” she says. “Everyone’s working on very different pieces of land, with different soil structures, different aspects of hillside and terrain, different gravels or clays or limestones, and bringing different winemaking philosophies to what they’re doing — it’s exciting because there’s so much going on in what’s really quite a small region.”
Tutton has seen the area transform from fledgling viticulture region to a thriving community of passionate, small-scale producers. “The call of the valley is in the smaller, independent, often family-run organisations where you grow and you make, and it’s all done inhouse,” she says.
• • • • • •
“This place is a bit of a sleeping giant. We’ve been here since ’89 and we’re really just starting to hit our stride now. I feel very humble about what we’ve been able to achieve and in awe of what a lot of other people are doing.” These days, the area boasts more than 90 vineyards and an industry that revolves around the joys of slow travel. “It’s not going to be a place where you go bungy jumping or mad with all the bars,” says Naish. “It’s relaxed, it’s very genuine. It’s the South Island, so there’s not much razzmatazz — but it’s incredibly restorative.”
Location: 43.6°S 172.0°E
Pinot noir — as well as chardonnay and riesling — do well here. “Our pinots really do reflect and express New Zealand,” says Naish. “We grow our pinot noir in a cool climate at the bottom of the earth, where the soils are really different to the Northern Hemisphere, where a lot of other pinot noir grows. We make our wines in quite a natural, low-intervention way, with no inputs apart from a tiny amount of sulphur at bottling. We want to try to retain the flavour of that fruit on the day we picked it, so that wine will be true to the soil it grew in and the eco-systems around it. Pinot noir is so transparent, so for us, it’s incredibly rewarding to focus on that and be really true to the season and the place.”
For Tutton, it feels as though the journey is just beginning. “One lifetime will never finish what there is to be done here, or what can be found out about this place,” she says. “We’ve got nothing to prove; we’ve got no ego involvement. All we’ve got to do is see what this place can do. All we can do is not fuck it up, hopefully.” 20 –19
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"I have tried some German Pinot Noirs and some of them were really very good. What is great about Pinot is that it is married to the Bourgogne, but it can also sleep in other beds." Aubert de Villaine, DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI
Photography: ANDRE CASTELLUCCI
GERMAN PINOT NOIR
DID YOU KNOW THAT GERMANY IS THE 3RD LARGEST PRODUCER OF PINOT NOIR IN THE WORLD?
A bastion of beer and bratwurst it may be, but Deutschland has almost 30,000 acres planted to pinot across the country. What a thing! More importantly, pinot noir produced in Germany is on the rise and rise in the cool stakes: The fancy-haired, wine-pouring glitterati have started to shift their gaze from Burgundy to look to a coterie of emerging pinot noir wine producing regions and the svelte, vibrant styles found in a variety of German winegrowing regions are increasingly sexy and appealing. Yes, you’ll have to work towards some of the more dedicated, artisan producers but seeking out best wines is always a fun quarry. Identifying best German pinot noirs is, as with most rising wine trends, not without landmines, so let’s work through some of the identifiers to get you on your way.
If you’ve ever seen the word ‘Spätburgunder’ on a wine bottle, then your nose is already pointing in the right direction. Spät translates from German to something akin to ‘late-ripening’, while the word burgunder translates to mean ‘pinot’. That being said, German producers have modernised to often include ‘pinot noir’ on labels. The personal approach of the winemaker is inherent in using the traditional local word or the appropriated French version. The growth of German pinot noir comes off the back of its low key reputation up until around a decade or so ago. Sure, you could forage for the purists and loyalists who have toiled at the variety for generations, but generally speaking most pinot noir from Germany was seen as lean, crudely produced and riddled with ‘green characters’ described by science as pyrazines. The last decade’s turn around includes the use of better clones of pinot noir in vineyards alongside improved winemaking practices, particularly less extraction of flavour from grapes during the winemaking process and better use of higher quality barrels and other vessels.
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Coupled to this improved viticulture and oenology comes the emergence of a younger generation of producers who are reimagining the world of German pinot noir through a pioneer, avant-garde approach to the
style. Earlier harvesting, more inclusion of whole bunch in fermentation, better quality, less overt oak overlay and a looser interpretation of pinot noir’s direction, have all conspired in better and more interesting wines.
W M rit I K ten E B B E y: N N IE
So, what else to look for in the myriad of pinot produced on German soils? Well, regions are important things: climates vary wildly, soil profiles are diverse, regional identity for pinot noir is a work in progress, though there are some generalisations coming about. Famed wine regions that produce landmark riesling
wines, like Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Mosel, are sidelined for less-revered winegrowing areas when it comes to pinot noir. Ahr (which is where half the plantings of all pinot noir in Germany are) and the vineyards of Baden, Franken and Württemberg take centre stage. The former regions typically produce pinot noirs of more skeletal and linear nature while the Ahr, Franken and Baden seem to elicit fuller flavour and a sense of greater power, though best wines of course manage inward concentration and restraint over robustness.
While many seek wines that ape the great wines of Burgundy or chase down that expectation of quality, benchmark wines from Germany producers are typically more expressive, less lavished with oak and sinewy tannin and are beacons Ultimately, the success of German pinot noir is multifaceted. Diversity, personality and drinkability are for their understatement. increasingly on its side and the presentation of a varie-
gated pinot noir offering is exciting. German pinot noir’s major strength is in its delicacy, ability to translate a sense of ‘purity’, and, when produced with a gentle hand, high drinkability.
➀ BERNHARD HUBER (Baden) Perhaps the benchmark for ‘high quality’ with elegance, precision, understated power on their side, with many cuvées rivals to great Burgundies or wines of NZ, Australia and west coast USA. ➁ ZIERIESEN (Baden) A charismatic, organic, natural wine producer straddling the Swiss border and employing a variety of unique approaches, including the use of amphorae. ➂ ÖKNOMIERAT REBHOLZ (Pfalz) Fine, bony, pretty pinot noirs of brisk acidity, amaro-like tang and vivaciousness from this organic/ natural wine vigneron.
T RY T H E S E ➃ HEYMANN-LOWENSTEIN PINOT NOIR VOM SCHIEFER (with Zieriesen) A collaboration between landmark riesling producer Heymann-Lowenstein and friend, Zieriesen. This one of wine is eccentric and very delicious. ➄ TROSSEN (Mosel) [ pinot noir & dornfelder blend ] Out of the box producer from Mosel with a focus on expressive, wild-edged riesling but here with a bright, crunchy, charismatic red blend (across a few iterations) . 20 –19
➅ KELLER (Rheinhessen) Riesling may be the focus but seek out the rare cuvées of pinot noir. There’s always a sense of ‘mineral presence’ in these wines and they start off their lives quite tight. ➆ MARKUS MOLITOR (Mosel) Upmarket pinot noirs of depth and generosity but a good deal of control despite the comparative extra heft. An exciting producer for benchmark pinot noir of Germany. ➇ KOEHLER-RUPRECHT (Pfalz) Succulent, silky, long-lived and very fine pinot noirs from this organic, low-intervention wine producer. Sleek, satiny expressions emerge.
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• PROFILE •
C H Y O W A M FROM:
LITTLE BAO / HAPPY PARADISE • H O N G KO N G •
Chef May Chow became an instant success when she opened her first restaurant, Little Bao, in Hong Kong in 2013. Now with two Little Bao locations, Chow draws on her American upbringing and her Chinese heritage, dishing up Chinese burgers – steamed bao with fillings like Szechuan fried chicken and tempura fish. In 2016, she added to her empire with the opening of gastropub Second Draft and again in 2017 with neo-Cantonese diner Happy Paradise. She was awarded Asia’s Best Female Chef, she’s fed the likes of Anthony Bourdain and we thought there was no one better to chat to about the burgeoning Hong Kong food and wine scene. WRITTEN BY — ANNA WEBSTER PP–02
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Tell us about the Hong Kong food and wine scene?
How have you seen it change in the last five years?
The food scene has been evolving exponentially. I think it's a combination of social media, ease of travel, locals who have been educated abroad returning home to Hong Kong and awards like Asia's 50 Best, Michelin and local media. I see amazing collaborations and connectivity between local Chinese and international chefs. Restaurants are now globally competitive so you really see the jump in creativity, authenticity and overall quality as guests’ expectations are high. The international chefs have also really made Hong Kong their home and I see local French or Italian restaurants easily rivalling the best in France and Italy.
Tell us about your cooking style?
What was it like to be awarded Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2017?
My cooking style is constantly evolving but I can’t take credit for all the cooking. I feel like a curator. I have great chefs I work with and I have a vision for Chinese food and I study the culture, the cooking methods and monitor creative processes to create food.
It definitely drew a lot of attention and it exposed me to another culinary world. I am thankful because I feel so connected to the international chef community and have also created more drive to do even more for not just women but for the local community as much as I can.
What’s next for you? We continue to explore and showcase Chinese cuisine through my own perspective. We’ve been lucky to be finally recognised for our culinary efforts at Happy Paradise. We are excited for all the exciting projects ahead which involve exploring China and pushing the creativity level of Happy Paradise while sharing our Chinese culinary history and progression.
Where are your favourite places to eat in H.K?
Where are your favourite places to drink?
Xinrongji, The Chairman, Juxing Home, Belon, VEA (especially when chef Vicky Cheng cooks for me late at night).
The Old Man — not bad that the number one bar in Asia is right across from my restaurant. My favourite is their clarified Bloody Mary with an oyster leaf. It’s so delicious. 20 –19
PINOT PALOOZA – SPECIAL OFFER – Have a six-pack of our delicious 2018 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir (rrp $240 ) delivered to your door anywhere in Australia for $200! • Order on the day at Palooza, or on journeywines.com.au
@journeywines
/journeywines
Brisbane -Sydney- Melbourne MOULDCHEESEFESTIVAL .COM. AU
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Hall of Fame
Australia
→→
→→
Victoria
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Over 350 wineries have joined the Pinot Palooza tour since the festival’s conception in 2012. Naturally the bulk of these are from Australia and New Zealand, but since our expansion into Asia and beyond, the number of wineries from beyond our backyard is growing. Here’s our ever-growing Hall of Fame...
Avoca →→ Blue Pyrenees Estate Ballarat →→ Eastern Peake
→→ →→ →→
→→ →→ →→
Beechworth →→ Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown
→→ →→
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Geelong →→ Austins & Co. →→ Banks Road →→ Bannockburn →→ Bellbrae →→ By Farr →→ Clyde Park →→ Curlewis →→ Jack Rabbit →→ Lethbridge →→ Livewire →→ Leura Park →→ Oakdene →→ Terindah →→ Provenance →→ Yes Said the Seal Gippsland →→ Caledonia Australis →→ Cannibal Creek →→ Dirty Three →→ Fleet →→ Lightfoot & Sons →→ Moondarra →→ Onannon →→ Patrick Sullivan →→ Rob Hall →→ William Downie Macedon Ranges →→ Bindi →→ Cobaw Ridge →→ Curly Flat →→ North →→ Passing Clouds Milawa →→ Brown Brothers Mornington Peninsula →→ Allies →→ Circe →→ Crittenden →→ Darling Park Winery →→ Dexter Wines →→ Dromana Estate →→ Eldridge Estate PP–02
→→ →→ →→ →→ →→
→→ →→ →→ →→
Even Keel Wines Foxey's Hangout Garagiste Kooyong Main Divide Montalto Moorooduc Estate Ocean Eight Paradigm Hill Paringa Estate Polperro Port Phillip Estate Portsea Estate Pt. Leo Estate Quealy Rahono Valley Red Hill Estate Stonier Ten Minutes by Tractor Trofeo Tuck's Ridge Willow Creek Yabby Lake
Sunbury →→ Noisy Ritual →→ Ray-Monde Deux Werribee →→ Shadowfax Yarra Valley →→ Arfion →→ Chandon →→ Coldstream Hills →→ De Bortoli →→ Denton →→ Duck Sauce →→ Giant Steps →→ Goodman →→ Greenstone →→ Handpicked →→ Helen & Joey Estate →→ Hoddles Creek Estate →→ Innocent Bystander →→ Jamsheed →→ Journey Wines →→ Levantine Hill →→ Medhurst →→ Nikkal Wines →→ Oakridge →→ Punt Road →→ Rising Vineyard →→ Rob Dolan →→ Santolin →→ Six Acres →→ Soumah of Yarra Valley →→ Sticks →→ Tarrawarra
→→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→
The Better Half The Don Timo Mayer Toolangi Yarra Yering Yering Station Yeringberg South Australia
Adelaide Hills →→ Ashton Hills →→ BK Wines →→ Cake →→ Caught Redhanded →→ Deviation Road →→ Gestalt →→ Golden Child →→ Golding →→ Grounded Cru →→ Guthrie Wines →→ Henschke →→ Main & Cherry →→ Murdoch Hill →→ New Era →→ Ngeringa →→ Ochota Barrels →→ Shaw + Smith →→ Sidewood Estate →→ Spider Bill →→ Terre à Terre →→ Tomich Wines →→ Top Note →→ Vinteloper Barossa Valley →→ Shobbrook Clare Valley →→ Sanglier Coonawarra →→ Patrick of Coonawarra Eden Valley →→ Yetti and the Kokonut Fleurieu Peninsula →→ Finniss River →→ Tapanappa Wines McLaren Vale →→ d'Arenberg →→ Maximus →→ Mosquito Hill Mount Gambier →→ Good Intentions Wine Co. Tasmania Tasmania →→ Bay of Fires →→ Bream Creek
P • 47 →→ →→ →→
→→
→→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→
→→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→
→→
→→ →→ →→
→→ →→ →→
→→
Chatto Dalrymple Delamere Vineyards Derwent Estate Devil's Corner Gala Estate Ghost Rock Holm Oak Home Hill Josef Chromy Lost Farm Wines Meadowbank Mewstone Milton Moores Hill Nocton Estate Pipers Brook Vineyard Sailor Seeks Horse Spring Vale Stargazer Stefano Lubiana Stoney Rise Tamar Ridge Tolpuddle Vineyard Winter Brook Western Australia
Great Southern →→ 3drops →→ Castelli Estate →→ Flor Marché →→ Howard Park →→ Marchand & Burch →→ Paul Nelson →→ Rockcliffe Margaret River →→ Cherubino →→ Moss Wood Pemberton →→ Below and Above →→ Lost Lake →→ Mountford →→ Picardy New South Wales Hunter Valley →→ Hungerford Hill →→ Two Rivers Mudgee →→ Gilbert Family Orange →→ Rikard Wines →→ Ross Hill →→ Swinging Bridge
→→
Southern Highlands Artemis
→→ →→ →→
Wet Jacket Wild Rock Wooing Tree
→→ →→ →→ →→
Tumbarumba →→ Coppabella Wines Australian Capital Territory Canberra →→ Lerida Estate Murrumbateman →→ Ravensworth
New Zealand Auckland →→ Kumeu River Central Otago →→ Akarua →→ Akitu →→ Amisfield →→ Archangel →→ Babich →→ Bald Hills →→ Brennan →→ Burn Cottage →→ Carrick →→ Chard Farm →→ Charteris →→ Domain Road →→ Domaine Thomson →→ Eon of Bendigo →→ Felton Road →→ Folding Hill →→ Gibbston Valley →→ Grasshopper Rock →→ Kalex →→ Madam Sass →→ Maude →→ Misha's →→ Mount Edward →→ Mt Difficulty →→ Mud House →→ Nanny Goat →→ Nevis Bluff →→ Ostler →→ Peregrine Wines →→ Prophet's Rock →→ Quartz Reef →→ Rippon →→ Rock Ferry →→ Rockburn →→ Tarras →→ Te Kano →→ Terra Sancta →→ Thornbury →→ Two Paddocks →→ Valli →→ Waitiri Creek
Hawke's Bay →→ Craggy Range →→ Decibel →→ Esk Valley →→ Junction →→ Lime Rock →→ Sileni Estates →→ Te Awa →→ Vidal
→→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→ →→
→→
Marlborough →→ Ara →→ Astrolabe →→ Awatere River →→ Blind River →→ Brancott →→ Cambridge Road Estate →→ Catalina Sounds →→ Churton →→ Clos Henri →→ Clos Marguerite →→ Cloudy Bay →→ Corofin →→ Crowded House →→ Dog Point →→ Foley Wines →→ Folium Vineyard →→ Forrest →→ Framingham →→ Fromm →→ Giesen →→ Good Company →→ Greywacke →→ Hans Herzog →→ Jackson Estate →→ Jules Taylor →→ Lake Chalice →→ Lawson's Dry Hills →→ Loveblock Vintners →→ Mahi →→ Marisco →→ Massey Dacta →→ Matua →→ Nautilus →→ Novum →→ Saint Clair →→ Seresin →→ Soho Wines →→ Spy Valley →→ Staete Landt →→ Steve Bird →→ Stoneleigh →→ Te Whare Ra →→ Terravin →→ Tohu →→ Totara →→ Vavasour →→ Villa Maria →→ Wither Hills →→ Yealands Estate →→ Zephyr Martinborough →→ Alexander →→ Ata Rangi
→→ →→ →→
→→ →→ →→ →→
Big Sky Coney Dry River Escarpment Johner Estate Julicher Kim Crawford Kono Wines Kusuda Luna Estate Martinborough Vineyard Murdoch James Palliser Estate Poppies Schubert Wines Stonecutter Te Kairanga The Elder Pinot Urlar
Nelson →→ Aronui →→ Brightwater →→ Neudorf North Canterbury →→ Alan Mccorkindale →→ Bell Hill →→ Bellbird Spring →→ Black Estate →→ Boneline →→ Fancrest →→ Greystone →→ Hermit Ram →→ Mischief →→ Muddy Water →→ Mt Beautiful →→ Pegasus Bay →→ Pyramid Valley →→ Terrace Edge Vineyard →→ The Boneline →→ The Crater Rim →→ Tongue in Groove →→ Waipara Hills
Monterey →→ Carmel Road →→ Hahn Oregon →→ Dom Serene →→ A To Z Rose Bubbles Santa Barbara →→ Byron →→ Nielson →→ The Paring Santa Cruz →→ Partage Winery Sonoma →→ Failla →→ Freeman →→ Hirsch →→ La Crema →→ Paul Hobbs →→ Raen →→ Sebastiani →→ Siduri Willamette Valley →→ Le Doubblé Troubblé →→ Minimus →→ Omero →→ Origin →→ Antica Terra →→ Evening Land →→ Lingua Franca
Chile Casablanca →→ Villard →→ Viña Casablanca Malleco Valley →→ Clos Des Fous
Wairarapa →→ Gladstone →→ Matahiwi Estate →→ Paddy Borthwick
San Antonio →→ Matetic
USA
Burgundy →→ Louis Latour →→ Roux Père & Fils
California Deloach
France
→→
Carneros →→ Etude Mendocino →→ Becker Wines
20 –19
Champagne →→ Champagne A.R. Lenoble →→ Charles Heidsieck →→ Duval-Leroy
Loire Valley →→ Domaine Fouassier
Germany Baden →→ Dr. Wehrheim
Italy Trentino-Alto Adige →→ Cantina La Vis →→ Cantina Terlano →→ Franz Haas →→ Maso Grener Tuscany →→ Paolo e Noemia d’Amico
South Africa Hemel-enAarde →→ Hamilton Russell Elgin →→ Richard Kershaw Wines
P • 48
2 0 1 9
EVENTS
TOK YO May 25th
LOS ANGELES September 28th
OSAK A May 26th
MELBOUR NE October 5th
PERTH August 3rd
SYDNEY October 12th
A DEL A IDE August 10th
BR ISBANE October 13th
AUCK L A N D September 7th
SINGA POR E November 23rd
WELLINGTON September 8th
HON K KONG November 30th
CHR ISTCHURCH September 14th
••• Tickets are now on sale at pinotpalooza.com.au
BR ISBANE May 19th
MELBOUR NE: June 8th
SYDNEY May 24th & 25th
S Y DN E Y: October 19th
MELBOUR NE August 16th & 17th J A PA N Coming Soon!
••• PP–02
Wine is all about enjoyment.
The Lane Vineyard, Ravenswood Lane, Hahndorf by Adam Bruzzone, South Australian Tourism Commission
So relax, indulge and immerse yourself in the Adelaide Hills.
@adelhillswine /adelaidehillswine /adelaidehillswine adelaidehillswine.com.au/immerse
PURCHASE
CAR SHARE
THE THIRD CHOICE KINTO ONEを選ぶ ５つの理由
5 REASONS FOR YOU TO CHOOSE KINTO ONE １．頭金なし・月々定額料金だけで乗り始めOK NO DEPOSIT, JUST MONTHLY FEE AND DRIVE
２．クルマ保有期間に必要な費用がコミコミ。なんと任意保険も! INCLUDES ALL CAR EXPENSES! EVEN VOLUNTARY INSURANCE!
３．契約満了後は、新しいクルマに乗り換えるか、返却するだけ! WHEN CONTRACT IS COMPLETED JUST RETURN OR GET A NEW CAR!
４．販売店でも、WEBサイトからでも申し込みOK! SIMPLY APPLY VIA THE WEBSITE!
５．契約期間が３年なので車検手続きが不要! NO CAR INSPECTION! BECAUSE IT’S ONLY 3 YEARS TERM.
車両代
Vehicle Cost
登録諸費用
Registration expenses
任意保険
Optional insurance
定期メンテナンス
Regular maintenance
kinto-jp.com
自動車税
Car Tax
故障修理
Trouble Repair