REVUE Magazine July 2018

Guatemala’s English-language Ezine July 2018

revuemag.com Year 27 No. 5

photography issue

Rivers & Lakes of Guatemala

photo: alejandra durbin

From the Publishers

F

or a multitude of reasons, we made the decision to transition Revue magazine from print to digital, known as an Ezine (electronic magazine). Our gratitude to Print Studio for their many years of amazing quality and service.

We've been publishing Revue since March, 1992. Over these 26+ years hitting every print deadline, intensive distribution and re-distribution, plus the business side of Revue—we thought it would be a big shock to shift gears.

But that didn't happen. Instead, we felt a surge of excitement because the current technology now allows us to greatly expand what we've always loved doing—highlighting the beauty and people of Guatemala, partnering with businesses to promote services, sharing information with readers about upcoming activities and offering interesting articles—using an interactive format.

Within this month’s issue you can easily connect to any link of interest, including The Antigua Guide featuring an interactive map locator and individual listings for all kinds of businesses/services and points of interest. For those who still love to hold the print version of La Antigua map in your hand, it will continue to be available. You can find them at major distribution points in La Antigua and the Guatemala City airport.

Thank you to Revue readers from near and far, your support and encouragement will continue to be so appreciated. And of course, Revue could not have thrived for so many years without advertisers who trusted us to promote their businesses via a strong circulation and added-value courtesies that have always been our cornerstone.

So away we go—it is our great pleasure to introduce you to REVUE the Ezine. In this issue we spotlight photography from our Photo Contest “Rivers & Lakes of Guatemala.”

— John & Terry Kovick Biskovich

Using the interactive features As you turn a page you’ll notice some of the text/images are briefly highlighted.

All you have to do is click or tap on them to enter the world of interactivity, including virtual reality tours. Double-tap on a page to zoom in.

In the contents and advertiser index pages just click or tap on whatever subject you’re interested in and that’s where you’ll go. Videos will play directly in the page.

Photographers Alejandra Durbin Any Joachin Bo Chelette Byron Eliseo Tenas Lucero Carlos Cordón Carlos Green David Rojas Edgar E. López Franco Elizabeth Porres Emmanuel Lucero Erick Leonel Pérez Cúmez Eric Mencher Esmen Duarte

Eugenia Isabel Salazar Francesco Nadalini Francisco Muñoz A. Francisco Prahl Gabriela Wright Guillermo Alejandro Heather White Jaime Barientos Montalvo Javier Alvarez Vassaux Javier Quintanilla Jorge A. Revolorio A. Josué Juárez Josué Morales

Kevin Ibarra Lorena Morales Lo Reyes Luis A. Hernández S. Luis Alberto Vivar Oscar Díaz Paola Salazar Raúl González Renato Guillermo Sara Morales Tato Estralday Terencio Tiul Fernandez

“Rivers & Lakes of Guatemala” contest winners: popular vote 1st Jorge A. Revolorio A. 2nd Byron Eliseo Tenas Lucero 3rd Esmen Duarte judges picks 1st Rodrigo Sergio Saravia Lino 2nd Victor Hugo Xalcut 3rd Luis Aldana INFORMATION FOR THE NEXT PHOTO CONTEST

“After the rain / Después de la lluvia” Tzununá, Santa Cruz la Laguna, by Gabriela Wright

Contents Articles

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The Multicolores Colle Bringing new industry

by Elizabeth Rose

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Cuba, A Gastronomic T Amalia’s Kitchen by Am

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The Doors of Antigua Guatemala Insight by

Cultural Events Calend

58 78 99 64

Book Alert

Tours in and around La

La Antigua interactive

Advertiser INDE Restaurants - Hotel

Guatemala’s English-lan

ON THE COVER “Swimming in R

For Busin “Palatzá River, High Basin” Las Lagunas Village, San Marcos,

by Guillermo Alejandro C.A. 4

ective y to rural Guatemala

Tour malia Moreno-Damgaard

18

Elizabeth Bell

dar

a Antigua

e Map 60 claudia viglianesi

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EX places to go, things to do, and fun to be had ls - Shopping - Services - Real Estate - Travel

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE INTERACTIVE REVUE

nguage Ezine

consultas@revuemag.com

PBX 7931-4500

Corporate offices: 3a avenida sur #4-A, La Antigua Guatemala

Rippled Reflections / La Buena Onda de Nadar” Laguna Lachúa, Alta Verapaz, by Alejandra Durbin

ness Listings, Information, Maps and Events Calendar TheAntiguaGuide.com Previous Revue articles and Photo Contests RevueMag.com 5

“Natural Paradise / Paraiso natural” Semuc Champey, by Carlos Cordón | Fotografía

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“A visitor dives into the waters of Lake Atitlán” San Marcos La Laguna, Sololá,

by Eric Mencher ericmencher.com 9

“Río Azul” Jacaltenango, by Oscar Díaz

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“Río Lagartero” Nentón, Huehuetenango,

by Edgar E. López Franco - flickr.com/photos/drlopezfranco/

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3rd PLACE Popular Vote: “Rio Dulce” Izabal, by Esmen Duarte 13

“La mejor expresión de la Naturaleza” El Rio Los Esclavos, Chiquimulilla Santa Rosa, by @digitalfeycerfotografia

“Las Conchas” Alta Verapaz, by Javier Alvarez Vassaux Galería en Flickr: javieralvarez97

Micaela Churunul, Guatemalan weaver

Without education and unable to work in agriculture, her community’s primary industry, her options for work were limited.

In 2006, Mary Anne Wise and Jody Slocum visited Guatemala where they saw an inspiring natural countryside alongside deep poverty. The noticed the weavers were talented artisans but lacked a product that had wide appeal to a larger market. Wise and Slocum tried to help.

Wise, an American rug hooking artist, writer and teacher, and Slo-

The Multicolores Collective Bringing new industry to rural Guatemala

by Elizabeth Rose

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icaela Churunul, age thirty-six, learned weaving from her mother as a child. But a bad case of bronchitis when she was eight compromised her health going forward. Also, at eight, she was forced to leave school when her family needed her at home. Without education and unable to work in agriculture, her community’s primary industry, her options for work were limited. With two younger siblings in school in Guatemala City and two sisters at home, her help was desperately needed. It wasn’t until two Wisconsin natives, with innovation on their minds, visited Guatemala in 2006 that a new industry opened to Churunel and others like her.

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Hooked rug by Micaela Churunul

Micaela Churunul, mother and sisters.

cum, also a textile artist, observed the sense of color, form, and storytelling that was inherent within the hand-woven huipils. They also saw that the weavers’ skills were underutilized in their home regions where the primary source of income was agriculture, and where the women were inextricably embedded as mothers and wives. Relocation was not an option, but Wise and Slocum reasoned their skills could still bring them work opportunities. By 2009 they had imagined a new product that would pay dividends to the women and change families. The product would be hooked rugs, an otherwise unknown craft in this region.

Hooked rugs were a perfect fit for the lifestyle of the weavers. They were portable, constructed with simple inexpensive tools, easily photographed for online sales and suitable for shipping on the international market.

While the end-product had been envisioned, there was still a piece of the puzzle for Wise and Slocum to solve: where would the artisans find the raw materials? They needed to be locally available, inexpensive, colorful, strong, and multi-textural.

Their business model gained traction when Wise and Slocum discovered the pacas (local retail outlets

Hooked rugs were a perfect fit for the lifestyle of the weavers. that sell used clothing in bulk). The pacas would provide access to bales of second-hand clothing and textile products otherwise known as “ropa Americana” that are imported to Guatemala from the United States.

Wise and Slocum reasoned that the T-shirts, skirts, and pants could be cut into eighth-inch wide strips suitable for rug hooking. With all the pieces for a successful business model in place, the new collective Multicolores was born.

Multicolores is now a non-profit that is artisan run and operated with forty-two rug hookers from the five communities of Chirijquiac, Patanatic, Totonicapán, Quiejel, and Chuacruz. Multicolores has six staff members of which four are Maya women. Each rug hooking “group” is artisan-run and operated. Two rug-hooking artists serve on the Multicolores Board.

Multicolores has helped the artisans create rugs, sell them on the international market and contribute to their family economics. The artisans each bring in 19

to be honored as artist representatives at international art fairs and trade shows. Ongoing classes in product development are included.

Multicolores is proud of each artisan’s financial contributions. In some cases, the income from rugs composes as much as half of the total family income, allowing children to remain in school, get medical care, buy medicines, food, clothing dental care and basic home improvements. In 2017, the three highest individual total earnings were $3,572, $2,663 and $2,142. Cheryl Conway, director of development, referenced the statistics that Multicolores collects: “In 2017 using data collected from forty-one rug hookers, we learned that the average annual household income, from all sources, was $4,073. The average annual cost for household expenses (food, rent, transport, medicine, education, electricity, wood, gas, potable water, cable, loan), was $3,691.”

Micaela Churunul, embroidering.

significant income to their families, and in some cases contribute half of their family yearly income. Both the rugs and artisans have received awards and international recognition in art shows and tours.

In 2012, Multicolores improved their model by adding a year-long “Teach the Teachers Program.” Seven artisans were elevated to teacher status with the role of teaching the skills to more artisans. With this strategy, the project became sustainable and guaranteed that the skills would remain in Guatemala.

Today Multicolores offers incentives and supports for the artisans. Each woman receives help with the organization and purchase of furniture and materials for a home studio. Multicolores picks up 50 percent of the costs. The artisans also receive eye tests, carpal tunnel exams, and nutrition classes with a trained nurse, and suggestions for weekly menu planning. They receive access to craft development workshops and opportunities 20

This has fundamentally changed family life and culture. Access to new income has convinced reluctant husbands of the advantages of their wives’ employment.

Artisan María Ignacia Vicente Jocol, twenty-nine, who lives in Chirijquaic with her husband and two children, shared her view of her family’s transformation following her rug hooking successes, “Women in my community have to ask their husbands for permission to have dreams, meaning that their lives are limited by what their husbands permit. In the beginning, my husband did not give me permission to attend workshops, but after hooking two large rugs and earning significant income, he saw the benefits and has become much more supportive of me and my work. I no longer have to ask his permission to attend workshops.”

Even more fundamental than the improvement in family finances has been the positive change to the women’s self-esteem as a result of the rug-hooking project. Rosmery Elizabeth Pacheco, twenty-two, lives with her mother, two younger brothers, and sister in Totonicapán. She credits her job as a rug-hooker with supporting a change in her core identity, “There are

Micaela Churunul.

two Rosmery’s. The one before the rug hooking project was timid and lived in a dark box. She cleaned houses, barely scraping by. This was all that I thought my life would be. I didn’t believe that I had the strength or the skills to overcome my situation. But then I learned to rug hook and it opened my mind. I discovered a talent I never knew I had, I lost the fear of expressing myself, I became more confident.”

For Glendy Emiliana Muj, thirty-three, who lives with her husband and seven children in Patanatic, work through Multicolores has brought about concrete improvements. “Since I started rug hooking our quality of life has greatly improved. Five of my children are in school, the eldest, now 15 wants to go to University. We are now able to go to the doctor more frequently and buy medicine. With income from my first rug I bought a sink so now I can do the family’s laundry at home rather than carrying heavy loads to the community pilas. We have made improvements to our home, we now have a concrete floor and windows. My children see me as a role model, they see that without education and just a few opportunities, I have achieved much and have had many new experiences.”

Just five years ago, Churunul had never touched a hooked rug. She was unaware that the techniques of rug hooking could be done at home, with simple hand skills, and using affordable materials locally purchased.

Today, Churunul is a celebrated rug maker, hooking her own designs inspired by traditional Maya colors, shapes, and forms. She designs from her own creativity and drawing from the images that make her happiest.

“Mothers have been teaching their daughters to weave for hundreds of years so the colors, patterns, and symbols which decorate our ‘huipils’ have historical significance and meaning. When I draw these designs onto my rugs, I am transmitting the legacies left to us by our ancestors. My rug designs are also inspired by nature in Guatemala. I seek inspiration in the things which make me feel happy, like birds, flowers, and nature.”Sales from her artistry have made a difference in her siblings’

lives, allowing her younger brothers and sister to remain in school in Guatemala City. Reaching from rural Guatemalan home studios to the foyer floors of North America seemed impossibly far until the artisan collective Multicolores partnered with Churunul and fortyone other artisans, in five different regions, and taught them rug hooking and simple business principles.

Multicolores is located at calle Peatonal Capulín, zona 2, Panajachel, Lake Atitlán, Guatemala.

They can be reached at + 502 7762-2226 or visit

multicolores.org Facebook at multicoloresguatemala Look for “Rug Money: How a Group of Maya Women Changed Their Lives Through Art and Innovation” by Mary Anne Wise and Cheryl Conway to be published by Thrum Books in September 2018.

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1st PLACE Popular Vote: “Luz de Atitlán / Atitlán’s Light”

by Jorge A. Revolorio A. 23

2nd PLACE Popular Vote. “Desde el Puente Río Dulce” Livingston, by Byron Eliseo Tenas Lucero

“It is life, I think, t A man can learn —Nich

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HONORABLE MENTION Popular Vote: “Elementos” Lake Atitlán, by Sara Morales (Manzana Morales)

to watch the water. so many things.” holas Sparks

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“Home on the River” by Bo Chelette

“Water is fluid, soft, and yielding. which is rigid and cannot yield. A and yielding will overcome what another paradox: what is s 26

“Un Viaje mas allá de la Tierra” Laguna de Lemoa, Santa Cruz de Quiche, by Luis Alberto Vivar

. But water will wear away rock, As a rule, whatever is fluid, soft, tever is rigid and hard. This is soft is strong.” —Lao Tzu 27

“Raíces” Río Tatin, Río Dulce, by Eugenia Isabel Salazar

“Water is the most per when it travels it beco —Me

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“View from Santa Catarina Palopó” Lago de Atitlán, by Lorena Morales

rfect traveler because omes the path itself!” ehmet Murat ildan

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“...Con paciencia” Santiago Atitlán, by Javier Quintanilla

“They both listened silently t was not just water, but the v the voice of perpetual Bec

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“La luz de la Luna bañando a el lago de Atitlán a las 3:00 a.m.” Santa Catarina Palopó, Panajachel, Sololá, by Any Joachin

to the water, which to them voice of life, the voice of Being, coming.” —Hermann Hesse

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“Desde las faldas de Cerro de Oro” Atitlán, Solola. 2:00 am, by Raúl González

“Let truth be told. The more we al and sold—the more we sell the secur He who controls the water, contro

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1st PLACE Judges Vote: “La noche vibra historias, el cuerpo descansa y la mente camina’” Panajachel, Sololá, by Rodrigo Sergio Saravia Lino

llow water to be controlled, bottled rity of our sons, daughters and souls. ols us all. Water is the true gold.”

—Suzy Kassem 33

Amalia’s Kitchen text & photos by chef and author Amalia Moreno-Damgaard

The Cuba that you may not know

P

A gastronomic tour

erhaps what most people associate with Cuba is communism, the embargo, or that it is an off-limits place for Americans, yet tourism is booming with visitors from Canada, Europe, Asia and elsewhere. Old Havana is beautiful. The food is delicious. There’s live music everywhere and the music is hot!

During a recent gastronomic tour in Havana and the western region of the island, I had the much-anticipated pleasure of tasting Cuba’s delights, touring coffee plantations and the tobacco country, and learning a great deal about sugarcane-processing and rum-making. I had many delicious Mojito experiences and visited the famous Bodeguita del Medio, claiming to be the birthplace of the drink. I also made it to Ernest Hemingway’s home (about 15 miles east of the capital) and to one of his favorite hangouts in Havana, La Floridita, renowned for its daiquiri’s, Daiquiri (a native Taíno word) is a beach town in eastern Santiago de Cuba where this cocktail allegedly originated.

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The hardships they have endured have made them stronger and pushed them to become more resourceful.

Local trio keeps the music going

Cuba’s culinary delights, scenery, culture, food, music, and hospitable people are amazing. Contrary to what some may think, Cuba is unlike the rest of Latin America in looks and feel. Old Havana is reminiscent of a 16th-century colonial European city with contrasting native, Spanish and African cultures. El Malecón, an 8 kilometer (5 miles) long seawall scenic coastline, is vibrant with visiting cruise ships and people fishing or hanging out during breezy evenings.

The basic ingredients of Cuban cuisine are black beans and red beans (the latter came by way of Haiti), rice, corn, coffee, rum, pork, chicken, cumin, yucca and other tubers, sour orange, plantains, bell peppers, tomatoes, tropical fruits in preserves and cheeses and sausages. One of my favorite recipes is Moros y Cristianos, or Moors and Christians, a Spanish influence with a cultural-historical reference to the time African Muslim Moors invaded Spain for almost 800 years (8th-15th century) and the Christians who fought to expel them from the Iberian Peninsula.

Contrary to what some may think, Cuba is unlike the rest of Latin America in looks and feel.

Congri is another popular dish that is similar to Moros y Cristianos, except the former has red beans instead of black. Red beans came to Cuba from the eastern side of the island by Haitian influence. By far the predominant plate is the one containing black beans, which is not only delicious and nutritious, it too can be a vegetarian option by omitting the bacon or pork. Cuban cuisine is similar in staples yet different from Guatemalan fare.

Cubans are incredibly resilient and warmhearted people with a strong sense of ingenuity. They jokingly say that the hardships they have endured have made them stronger and pushed them to become more resourceful and industrious

Amalia (center) with new friends and some great dishes 35

with what they have. Repurposing and recycling is a way of life and very visible, from the overhauled 1950s colorful Ford models, along with many other items that have been adapted for various purposes in the kitchen and elsewhere.

The cabaret scene — a feast to the eyes and soul- is very much alive reminiscent of the 1940s era with very large and extravagant picturesque shows at the famous open-air Tropicana and Parisian Clubs where I enjoyed a show

by Buena Vista Social Club. Oldtime style melding with 21st-century culture seems seamless as there’s little intrusion from foreign-born fast-food chains and commerce.

Cuba has a free high-quality education system attracting student candidates from various parts of Latin America and the world. Cubans are proud hardworking people who yearn for a brighter political future. I found in Cuba a diamond in the rough where I made many well-mannered and welcoming new friends with whom I had many interesting conversations ranging from politics and the economy and challenges and opportunities to current events.

In celebration of new special friendships and delicious food and drink, I’m sharing with you a recipe from the home of the Mojito where I sipped this delicious concoction and witnessed the creation of countless handcrafted Mojitos in a matter of seconds.

Mojitos on the house 36

Salúd!

Mojitos Lime and Rum Delight Recipe by Chef Amalia Moreno-Damgaard (AmaliaLLC.com) A refreshing Mojito is delicious anytime, and especially during the hot summer months.

You can also be creative when making a Mojito by adding flavor varieties such as fresh passion fruit or pineapple juice, or any other fruit juice of preference. For optimal taste always use fresh juices and always, fresh mint.

1 cocktail 1-part fresh lime juice 1-part sparkling soda 1-part sugar 1-part rum — preferably Cuban rum

3-4 mint leaves 1 mint sprig for garnish A muddler (a special bar tool for mashing and mixing drinks) Ice Combine the lime juice, soda water, sugar, rum and mint leaves in a glass and blend them well them using a muddler. Alternatively, use a martini shaker and add some ice to bruise the mint leaves to add flavor, and shake vigorously.

Serve with ice and a mint sprig.

Amalia checks out some classic Cuban cruisers 37

“Lago de Atitlán” Panajachel, by Emmanuel Lucero

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“El lago de mis amores. Puedo recorrer el mundo pero algo me hará regresar siempre a ti.” Panajachel, Sololá, by Lo Reyes

“Los esplendorosos elementos” Mirador del Lago de Atitlán, by Elizabeth Porres

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2nd PLACE Judges Vote: “Atitlán, Place of Dreams / Atitlán, lugar de ensueño” Panajachel, by Victor Hugo Xalcut

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3rd PLACE Judges Vote: “Rio Lagartero” Nenton, Huehuetenango, by Luis Aldana 42

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“Jade water / Agua de jade” Laguna Magdalena, Huhuetenango, by Josué Juárez

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“Un lugar olvidado pero que jamás pierde su belleza” Lago de Amatitlán,

by David Rojas

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“Via Lactea sobre Amatitlan / The Milky Way over Amatitlan” by Francesco Nadalini

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“Xibalbá” San Antonio Palopó, Sololá, by Erick Leonel Pérez Cúmez

Perhaps the truth depends —

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“Laguna Brava” Nentón, Huehuetenango, by Paola Salazar

s on a walk around the lake.

—Wallace Stevens

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“Amanecer en la Laguna de Chicabal” San Martín Sacatepequez, by Luis A. Hernández S. “Reunion / Reencuentro” Finca Sacmoc, Alta Verapaz, by Terencio Tiul Fernandez

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“Jack (my dog)” Santa Clara La Laguna, by Francisco Prahl “Dawn / Amanecer” San Juan La Laguna, Lago de Atitlan, by Carlos Green

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“Sunset over Atitlán” San Antonio Palopo, by Heather White “Sunset Hunting / Cazando atardecer” Laguna de Chichoj, San Cristóbal Verapaz, by Josué Morales

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“Starting the morning / Iniciando la Mañana” Panajachel, by Francisco Muñoz A. “A Special Dawn / Un Amanecer Especial” Lago de Izabal (Hotel Bahia), by Tato Estralday

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“Life in us is like the water in a river.” —Henry David

“Turbulencia entre Piedras” Departamento de Zacapa, by Jaime Barientos Montalvo

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d Thoreau

“Una pequeña roca...”

Río Sauce, El Estor Izabal,

by Renato Guillermo 57

Book Alert JUNGLE OF STONE by William Carlsen The True Story of Two Men, Their Extraordinary Journey, and the Discovery of the Lost Civilization of the Maya In 1839, rumors of baffling stone ruins buried within the unmapped jungles of Central America reached two of the world’s most intrepid travelers. Captivated by the reports, American diplomat John Lloyd Stephens and British artist Frederick Catherwood sailed together on an expedition into the forbidding rainforests of present-day Honduras, Guatemala and Mexico. read more

MAYA ROADS by Mary Jo McConahay One Woman’s Journey Among the People of the Rainforest “In this extraordinary travel memoir, McConahay journeys through beauty, history, disappearing cultures, and revolution… Her courage, keen observation, and open heart make her an unparalleled guide to this gorgeous, mysterious, sacred, and sometimes terrifying corner of the planet.”

—Laura Fraser, author of An Italian Affair and All Over the Map read more

Los Nawales: The Ancient Ones by Vincent Stanzione Los Nawales: The Ancient Ones Merchants, Wives and Lovers: The Creation Story of Maximón Storytelling is a traditional art form that has existed since the beginning of time. All societies pass down stories from one generation to the next using various mediums, including folktales, myths, rituals and artifacts. Learn about the ancient ways of Los Nawales and how once upon a time they lived paradisiacal lives on Flower Mountain. read more

“CENTER OF THE WORLD” by Jacqueline Sheehan “Sheehan’s writing is lively and vivid and her feel for historical detail is fine.”

— The New York Times The Good Reads review describes “Center of the World” as “New York Times bestselling author Jacqueline Sheehan’s evocative and emotionally compelling novel, a mother and her adopted daughter each embark on a journey of self-discovery in the wake of a stunning revelation.” read more 58

REVUE Photo Contest We invite you to participate in our MONTHLY PHOTO CONTEST for August 2018 with the theme: TRADITIONS OF GUATEMALA.

Prizes for both Categories (Popular & Judges’ vote)

Please send ONE (1) HIGH RES photo with caption/location and your name & website for the credit line to: photos@revuemag.com There will be prizes for winning photos including Q.200 for both 1st Place categories.

More information at: revuemag.com Submissions entered by the 12th of July will be eligible.

First Place

Q200 + Q500 GANORSA Pet Care Package Te invitamos a participar en nuestro Concurso Fotográfico de Agosto 2018 con el tema: TRADICIONES DE GUATEMALA Enviar (1) foto en ALTA RESOLUCIÓN con el título, lugar donde fue tomada, su nombre y el sitio web para el crédito a: photos@revuemag.com

Second Place

Q100 + Q500 GANORSA Pet Care Package

Third Place Q50

Habrá premios para las fotos ganadoras, incluye Q.200 para los primeros lugares.

Para más información: revuemag.com Serán elegibles las fotos recibidas hasta el 12 de Julio de 2018.

Photos by Edgar López Franco, Silvia Milian R. y Lo Reyes

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Guatemala Insight

by Elizabeth Bell

author/historian

photo

Tim Madden

The Doors of Antigua

M

any visitors comment on the beauty of Antigua’s colonial doors. In fact, there are very few original colonial doors left as, when the capital was moved to Guatemala City in 1773-74, almost all of the doors, balconies, furniture and art were moved too.

A few of the only original doors include one inside the ruins of the Cathedral of San JosĂŠ, some found inside Capuchinas and one of the most beautiful: the entrance to the La Merced Monastery (one of my favorites). But, indeed, Antigua does have exceptional doors.

While colonial doors (collected over the years) are located at the Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo and inside fine homes, one of my favorite new colonial-style doors is at the Popenoe House. The house,

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now owned by the Universidad Francisco Marroquín and only open for special events including concerts, was restored by Dr. Wilson Popenoe and his family after 1929. After a great amount of historical research, some published in Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala by his wife, Dorothy H. Popenoe (Cambridge, Harvard University Press, 1933), this gorgeous colonial-style door is quite functional.

You may open half of the door for the horse, both doors for the carriage, and there is a small door that opens as a “people” door.

Large door knockers are located up high for the horsemen and a beautiful brass doorknocker for people. Brass lions and hands are of Moorish (Muslim/Arabic) influence that the Spanish brought from Spain to Guatemala after 1524.

Entrance to La Merced Monastery, one of the few original doors of Antigua (photos césar tián)

We also find Moorish influence in the beautiful tachones, which may be in the form of rosetas (brass or iron decorations) that were initially placed on doors so that the camels in the Muslim world would not rub against the doors and knock them over. Alas, no lions or camels in Guatemala but the beautiful decorations remain.

Visitors usually are not aware that we are welcome inside any open door in Antigua.

Well, that is if both doors are open. Door etiquette has it that if one part of the door is open, that is not considered “open doors” (peek but do not enter), but if both sides of the door are open, we are welcome to explore behind the walls.

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photo

Ronald Cuyรกn

“Old and New” Hotel Museo Casa Santo Domingo, by Lita Bilotti

Always greeting the location and its inhabitants with a buenos días or buenas tardes, we find that this is really the only way to see behind the doors and get a feeling for Antigua’s lovely courtyards and colonial architecture, which has been blended with the new more recently. After usually inspecting what would be the back patio (I love the old kitchen/chimeneas), we exit (usually by the same door) with a gracias.

Antigua has opened up since 1969 when it seemed a quiet, dormant town. While all of the properties you may visit are commercial, the feeling behind the doors is much the same as in colonial times.

For more photos of the doors and windows of Guatemala, click here

Visitors usually are not aware that we are welcome inside any open door in Antigua.

Well, that is if both doors are open. Door etiquette has it that if one part of the door is open, that is not considered “open doors” (peek but do not enter), but if both sides of the door are open, we are welcome to explore behind the walls.

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Food and Drink restaurants, bars, cafĂŠs and diners

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ADVERTISER INDEX

places to go, things to do, and fun to be had antigua Almacen Troccoli wines, liquors, coffee, artisanal sweets Arrin Cuan traditional Guatemalan cuisine with flair Café Condesa farm-to-table meals casa escobar steak house “The tasty experience” Choco Museo artisanal chocolates, restaurant, classes virtual tour DEL ARCO RESTAURANTE excellent food in a beautiful surrounding DOÑA LUISA XICOTENCATL Restaurant & Bakery since 1978 el sabor del tiempo bruschetas, cheese fondues, salads, pasta, shrimp guat-ik bistro the ideal place for adventurers of flavor La Fonda de la Calle Real authentic Guatemalan cuisine LAS PALMAS delicious food & great bar. Live music nightly madre Tierra la parrillada chapina, traditional cuisine MESÓN PANZA VERDE classic elegance with a twist Rainbow Restaurant-Bar-Bookshop yummy food & drinks saberico garden restaurant, artisan chocolates, delicatessen ta’cool Taco Shop, the next level of tacos Vivero y Café de la Escalonia plant nursery & café

guatemala city RESAURANTE ALTUNA Spanish & Basque cuisine, seafood, paella RATTLE ‘N HUM Bar & Grill, Rock ‘n Roll lives here Shakespeare’s Pub the best place in Guatemala City for more than 35 years

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ADVERTISER INDEX

Shopping antigua Casa de los Gigantes Home accessories and gifts El Mástil hardware store La Antigua Galería de Arte Contemporary and traditional artists ORGANICA STORE Products are 100% Organic, 100% Gluten Free ...

guatemala city HOUSE & GREEN kitchen and restaurant supply galería de arte rapsodia featuring the works of David Ordoñez

antigua

Services

antigua International School International College Preparatory Central America Luxury Properties exclusive real estate virtual tour CENTRO VISUAL G&G specialized ophthalmologists centro de diagnostico renal Dr. Edgar Reyes CHRISTIAN SPANISH ACADEMY The Five Star Spanish School comunitel internet service where no one else gives it MAXILLOFACIAL CENTRE professional dental care, oral surgury the antigua guide information & locations of Antigua businesses

guatemala city 66

The Union Church 75 years, a legacy of faithfulness

Hotels - Lodging antigua Antigua Hotel Solutions several great hotels to choose from EL MARQUÉS de ANTIGUA fully equipped luxury suites EL MESÓN DE MARÍA a perfect combination of luxury & hospitality mesón panza verde boutique hotel, art gallery SAN RAFAEL colonial design and contemporary luxury

lake atitlan Jardines del lago hotel you deserve to relax at the lake POSADA DE SANTIAGO Lake Atitlán hotel, restaurant, art gallery villas b’alam ya travel, tranquility, transcendence

monterrico Cayman suites relax and enjoy at the pacific coast visitmonterrico.com Hotel Association of Monterrico/Hawaii

río dulce amatique bay Resort and Marina, enjoy an unparalleled tropical escape hACIENDA TIJAX Ecolodge & Marina - waterfront cabañas

antigua

Travel -Tours

ANTIGUA TOURS with author and historian Elizabeth Bell HERTZ Rent a Car & Maya Trails Guatemala, Belize & Honduras Tours art tours explore the unique & rich art scene with expert Estela Johnston

guatemala city museo ixchel Del Traje Indigena, history of Maya’s clothing & weaving

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Tel: 2331-2641

Shakespeare´s Pub Near all Major Hotels. 13 calle y 1a Avenida, zona 10, Local 5, Torre Santa Clara II, Guatemala City 68

/ShakespearesPubGuatemala

RESTAURANTE

ALTUNA A “Classic” in the center of Guatemala City & in Zone 10

Specializing in Spanish and Basque Cuisine, Seafood and Paella

restaurantealtuna.com

/restaurantealtuna

5a av. 12-31, Zona 1 Tel: 2253 6743 Delivery Service: 2251-7185 10 calle 0-45, Zona 10 PBX: 2201-2323 69

LIVES HERE LIVE MUSIC Wednesday, Friday & Saturday 8pm Great Drinks, Fantastic Food, Exceptional Service, Unlimited Sports

OPEN EVERY DAY 12pm - 1am 70

4a Ave 16-11 zone 10

Rattleandhumbar

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Centro Comercial “Plaza Decorísima” Local 7, Boulevar Los Próceres 23-30 zona 10, Guatemala Ciudad

Tel: (502) 2366-3659 dholart920@gmail.com 72

David Ordoñez Lacayo

Monday-Friday 9:00 to 17:00 Saturday 9:00 to 13:00 Learn about the fascinating history of the Maya’s clothing and weaving.

Buy Guatemalan handicrafts at our shop Shop online at:

museoixchel.org/shoponline

Centro Cultural UFM

6a Calle Final, Zona 10, Ciudad de Guatemala

Telefaxes: (502) 2361-8081 / 82

museoixchel.org

/MuseoIxcheldelTrajeIndigena 73

(502) 2361-2037

unionchurchguatemala@gmail.com

12 Calle 7-37 zona 9, Plaza EspaĂąa, Guatemala city. /unionchurchguatemala

unionchurchguatemala.com 74

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More than three decades offering the Best of Guatemalan Cuisine

+502 2238-0242

100% natural food crafted only with the best ingredients and prepared with all the dedication that a Guatemalan typical dish requires.

Parking available, Live Marimba.

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video: harvey sarazua

Zona 1 5a. Ave. 3-27 zona 1 Tel: 2238-0242 7:00 AM a 9:00 PM.

arrincuan.com

Zona 9 5a. Ave. 10-22 zona 9 Tel: 2360-5555 7:00 AM a 9:00 PM.

Antigua Casa #2 Callejรณn Concepciรณn Tel: 7832-0831 7:00 AM a 9:00 PM.

/ArrinCuan

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TOURS IN AND AROUND LA ANTIGUA Vallhalla Macadamia Nut Experimental Station

FB page

video: rob lowrie

Pacaya Volcano with Maribel Gonzalez

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atitrans.net

video: cupones express

7832-3610

5a Avenida Norte #28 (under the Arch) La Antigua G. restaurantedelarco@outlook.com

restaurantedelarcoantigua

restaurante_del_arco

We have

a Hotel for you!

(502) 7832-2857 4a Avenida Norte #4A La Antigua Guatemala

Tel : 7832-1148 - antiguahotelsolutions.com

guatik.com 79

Handmade chocolate from Guatemalan Cacao Beans

ChocoMuseo, Antigua 4a calle oriente #14 Tel: 7832-4520 80

ChocoMuseo, Calle del Arco 5a avenida norte #15C Tel: 7832-0219

ChocoMuseo, ChocoMuseo, Cayalรก Panajachel Paseo Cayalรก, Guatemala Calle Santander, Panajachel Tel: 2493-8179 Tel: 7762-2639

antigua@chocomuseo.com chocomuseo.com

click for 3D Virtual Tour

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Cultural Events

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Live Music

video: laura mcnamara

Breakfast served all day! Sunday Brunch

Seasonal Daily Specials Omelets, Pancakes, Quiche, French Toast, Sandwiches, Salads, Soups, Cakes, Pies, Muffins, Scones, Smoothies, Espresso, Cappuchino, Chai.

Local, organic ingredients, free range eggs, whole milk.

ALL MAJOR CREDIT CARDS

cafecondesa.com.gt

lastrescondesas@hotmail.com

PBX: 7832-0038

Inside La Casa del Conde, West side of the Central Park, Antigua OPEN HOURS: 7am - 8pm Sun-Thu 7am - 9pm Fri-Sat

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The Perfect combination in one place!

Ornamental, culinary, medicinal and fruit plants.

Gardening Accessories Meditation, Children and Event’s áreas Healthy food and drinks Special menu every weekend Organic products, gluten free

Tel: 78325-7074 5a Avenida Sur #36C, Antigua G. - la_escalonia@hotmail.com 84

Vivero y Café de la Escalonia

Tel: 7832-9734 Live music every day 6a Avenida Norte # 14 La Antigua Guatemala /laspalmasantiguaguatemala 85

Guatemalan expe

garden restaurant artisan chocolates delicatessen

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rience

raw food vegan gluten free

saberico.com.gt La Antigua Guatemala 6a Avenida Sur #7 Tel: 7832-0648

Guatemala City VĂ­a 4, 1-43 zona 4 Tel: 2362-1254

ChocolaterĂ­a Grab & Go saberico

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antigua dining

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Bruschetas, Cheese Fondues, Salads, Pasta, Pizza, Beef, Cabrito, Lechón, Shrimp

+(502) 7832-0507 3 restaurants in La Antigua Guatemala “Calle del Arco” & “A la Vuelta”

More than 40 years serving authentic Guatemalan Food video: william argueta

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lafondadelacallereal.com

We invite you to experience the comb hotelmesond

video: tv home news

Wines, Liquor, Tabacco, Coffee, Artesan Sweets, Chocolates

+(502) 7832-1239 5a Avenida Norte y 3a Calle Poniente, La Antigua Guatemala.

bination of Luxury and Hospitality demaria.com

video: bill bradbury

+(502) 7832-6068 91

donaluisaxicotencatl.com

DOĂ‘A LUISA XICOTENCATL

F r e s h B r e a d & r ol l s d a i ly Whole Wheat, Raisin, All-Grain, Black Olive, White, Potato & Onion Rolls, Banana Bread tod o s l o s d Ă­ a s h ay Integral, Pasas, Todos los Granos, Aceitunas Negras, Blanco, Panitos de Papa & Cebolla, Pan de Banano H o m e - c o ok e d M e a l s Breakfasts, Sandwiches, Burgers, Stuffed Potatoes, Cakes, Pies & Cookies como hechos en ca sa

Restaurant and Bakery

Desayunos, Sandwiches, Hamburguesas, Papas Horneadas, Pastels, Pays & Galletas

4a. calle oriente #12 La Antigua G. - Tel: 7832-2578 - dlxpan@gmail.com 92

Products:

100% Organic, 100% Gluten Free, 100% KSA Kosher, 100% Non GMO, 100% Non MSG

Antigua Guatemala 5a Calle Poniente #6 Tel: 7832-6533

Diagonal 6, 16-23, zona 10 Centro Comercial La Villa locales del 1 al 3 Tel: 2363-5375

Centro Comercial Vía Majadas, local 15 Tel: 2473-8285

Carretera a El Salvador Km. 15.5 Condado Concepción Fase 1, local 21 Tel: 6634-7077

/OrganicaGuatemala 93

Home Accessories & Gifts

La Antigua Guatemala Manufacturer & Exporter

Tel: (502) 7832-0685 7832-4656 Open daily 9am to 6pm

www.casadelosgigantes.com 94

7a calle oriente #18 - Fax: 7832-4659 info@casadelosgigantes.com

elmastil.com 95

Art Tours Antigua Guatemala

Estela Johnston:

(502) 4149-4663

Explore the unique & rich art scene in Antigua visiting several studios of established and emerging artists.

artintheamericas.net Art tours to Guatemala City´s Contemporary Art Galleries.

Join our weekly tour every Wednesday to explore cutting edge Latin Art. 96

5a Avenida Norte # 29 (near the arch) La Antigua Guatemala

Tel (502) 7832-5911

laantiguagaleria.com 97

Fully Equipped Luxury Suites at Hotel Room Prices Daily, Monthly and Yearly

Tels: 2386-1012 7832-8259 4a98Avenida Sur #30

elmarquesdeantigua.com

Colonial Design and contemporary luxury in the heart of Antigua 2a Calle Poniente #7 La Antigua Guatemala

Tel: +502 7832 9882 Fax: +502 7832 9741

info@TheSanRafaelHotel.com

TheSanRafaelHotel.com

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NEW! VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS

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The Five Star Spanish School 6a Avenida Norte #15 La Antigua Guatemala Guatemala, C.A.

Phone: (502) 7832-3922 information@learncsa.com

learncsa.com 101

INTERNET SERVICE WHERE NO ONE ELSE GIVES IT BROADBAND INTERNET DOWNLOADS UP TO 10MB

PASTORES CIUDAD VIEJA SAN MIGUEL DUEÑAS

SAN PEDRO LAS HUERTAS

ALOTENANGO STA. MARIA DE JESUS

OFFICE: 2375-0101 WHATSAPP: 4416-4289 102

A N T I G U A I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L

T h i n k C r i t i c a l l y, A c t E t h i c a l l y, Serve Others

Accredited, International College Preparatory Pre-K to 12th Grade

Admissions Open Te l . ( 5 0 2 ) 4 1 3 8 - 3 11 0

admissions@antiguais.org

antiguais.org

/AIS.gt 103

TOURS IN AND AROUND LA ANTIGUA Cultural tour of La Antigua by historian Elizabeth Bell

antiguatours.net

video: jill nienhiser

Filadelfia Coffee Farm Tour

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filadelfiaresort.com

video: aaron’s travel and adventure network

Since 1992

Antigua Cultural Tour Mon at 2pm with our best guides Tues, Wed, Fri, Sat at 9:30 am with Elizabeth Bell Meet at the fountain in the Central Park $25

Tels: 7832-5821, 7832-0053, 7832-2629 4a Calle Oriente # 39 Author of Antigua Guatemala and other publications

Inside Casa del Conde (Central Park) - and Lobby Hotel Casa Santo Domingo

Inquire about other tours and travel arrangementes in Guatemala

/antiguatours

antiguatours.net 105

Professional Dental Care

MAXILLOFACIAL CENTRE Dr. Luis RamĂ­rez, DDS, OMS General Dentistry Maxillofacial Surgery Dental Implants Oral Rehabilitation

TMJ Therapy Jaw Surgery Teeth Whitening Orthodontics

Dr. Luis RamĂ­rez, DDS, OMS, is a specialist in oral and maxillofacial surgery, orthodontics, dental implants, and oral rehabilitation.

Maxillofacial Centre is the ONLY ONE with 3D Dental Tomography and CAD/CAM Dental Lab in Guatemala. maxillofacialcentre.com info@maxillofacialcentre.com - Tel: 7832-6002 106 Spanish, English and German Spoken - Calle Real de Santa Ines #9A La Antigua Guatemala

José R. Golcher MD, Cornea, Cataract and Lasik surgeon Dalia González de Golcher MD, Vitreous-Retinal and Aesthetic medicine surgeon

Sp e cialize d O p hthalm o lo gis t s

/centro visual g&g

centrovisualgyg.com

Principal: Centro Gerencial Marqués de Rubio Oficina 1-4 - Tel: 78325850/78739275 Branch: 6a calle poniente #50A - Tel: 78326672/78328105 - whatsapp 44314822 107

One of Antigu luxurious ho The home’s most special features include: Less than a 10-minute walk to central Antigua, this home – located in a beautiful, secure gated community – boasts amazing amenities like a heated lap pool and Jacuzzi, separate living and culinary areas and electricity-saving solar panels.

A quiet oasis of comfort and style, this home is perfect for entertaining or relaxing, as beautifully highlighted by the poolside social area and upstairs living/dining area, with gazebo and breathtaking volcano views. This is Antigua-style living at its best!

3 Bedrooms 4 Baths 3 Living/Dining/Kitchen areas Garage Laundry Room Heated Pool and Jacuzzi Solar Panels / Solor Hot Water Central Antigua Gated Community Volcano Views Construction: 398M2 Lot: 372 M2 Year Built: 2012

For more information about this exclusive property:

Tel: (+502) 7832-7600 108

info@teamantigua.com

$895,000 - Viewings for qualified buyers

ua’s spectacular and omes is now for sale

FOR SALE A quiet oasis of comfort and style

click for 3D Virtual Tour

s are by appointment only.

click for slide show of more photos 109

A Sprawlng Country Esta

The home’s most special features include: MAIN HOUSE Multi-level floor plan Living Room Dining Room Large Kitchen 2 Master Suite Bedrooms Library/Study Guest Bathrooms Pool Laundry Room Maid’s Quarters Groundskeeper Apartment Lot: 3,428 M2 Construction: 444.50 M2 Construction finished in 1990 Price: $690,000 GUEST HOUSE Two bedrooms Jack and Jill bathroom Sunken living room Porton with parking Laundry room Lot: 392.41 M2 Construction: 180 M2 Price $199,000

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Separate Lot 1,869 M2 Price $225,000

This beautiful country home has the best of both worlds - tranquil country living with lush gardens, beautiful views, outdoor entertainment areas and a large swimming pool, but you are still just 10-minutes away from Antigua!

The multileveled floor plan includes a dramatic entrance way, large living room with lots of windows and views of the property's garden areas.

The main house also includes a large dining room with a separate, large kitchen, a library/study and two Master Suites/Bedrooms and ample guest bathrooms throughout. There is also a maid's quarters, groundskeeper apartment, and laundry room.

The home can be purchased with - or without - a well-appointed, large Guest House which borders this beautiful and dramatic, one-of-a-kind Country Estate.

For more information about this exclusive property:

Tel: (+502) 7832-7600 info@teamantigua.com

ate on the Outskirts of Antigua click for 3D Virtual Tour

FOR SALE Country Estate outside of Antigua

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Boasting one of the most this ‘Colonial Gem’ is not g The home’s most special features include: Outdoor Living—the wide porch for both eating and sitting looks over a 20-meter long lap pool, a lovely garden, and stunning view of Antigua’s Agua Volcano.

Living/Dining—the open-plan living/dining area is spacious and filled with light. The house has four working fireplaces and an interior garden with a fountain.

Master Bedroom (ground floor)—opens onto a gorgeous garden, and its wide hallway can be turned into an office/workspace as well.

Master Bedroom (2nd floor)—spacious, natural light, with fireplace and a beautiful view of Agua Volcano.

Small Bedroom (ground floor)—with a private bathroom.

Bathrooms—in addition to the bathrooms in each of the three bedrooms, there is also a half bath for guests in the house, and a full bathroom near the pool.

Large Kitchen—can accommodate three cooks comfortably, has a lovely view, lots of light, and can be closed off from the dining room.

Home Office—the second-floor office/TV/sitting room is spacious and light.

For more information about this exclusive property:

Tel: (+502) 7832-7600 112

info@teamantigua.com

$795,000 - viewing by appointment

t beautiful views in all of Antigua, going to be on the market for long

t only

FOR SALE One of Antigua’s Stunning Homes

click for slide show of more photos 113

visitmonterrico.com

Asociaciรณn de Hoteleros Monterrico-Hawaii 114

Hacienda Tijax Ecolodge & Marina RĂ­o Dulce

Waterfront CabaĂąas - Full Service Marina - Restaurant & Bar Swimming Pool - Reforestation Project - Jungle Sky Trail - Bird Watching Horseback Riding - Tours & Much More

tijax.com

Tels: 7930-5505/07 info@tijax.com 115

PBX: (502) 7931-0000

Hotel Cayman Suites Km. 10.5 Carretera a Monterrico, Guatemala, C.A.

PBX: (502) 2421-3327

reservaciones@caymansuites.com.gt

caymansuites.com.gt

Amatique Bay Resort & Marina 14 calle final, Finca Pichilingo Puerto Barrios, Izabal Guatemala - redessociales@amatiquebay.net

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amatiquebay.net

Hotel and Restaurant Art Gallery Pool, Sauna, Hot Tub

Santiago Atitlรกn 7721-7365/66

posadadesantiago.com 117

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video: kendra mclaughlin

video: barry mottier

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