Issue 1 March 2020
Celebrating the 8th of March: a woman in Scotland today
THREADS Why you should wear teal in March MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 1
MEET THE TEAM NATALIA NUNEZ - EDITOR
Ask the t whic eam: h ap p do you use t mos he t?
“I mostly use Google to search ‘Charlie Puth’ countless times a day.”
VANYA CHAPKANOVA - SUB-EDITOR “I’m always on Instagram checking influencers, the news and the latest trends in beauty and fashion.”
ELYSIA-JADE SONG - CREATIVE EDITOR, WRITER “My favourite app would be YouTube, because I don’t like the real world. [laughs nervously].”
NATASHA FRANKLIN - WRITER, PHOTOGRAPHER “My favourite apps would be Snapchat and Whatsapp. Realistically, I use my banking app more than anything else.”
KATHERINE MCPHILLIPS - WRITER “I mostly use GoodReads, an app for reading books which gathers communities for every interest.”
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CONTENTS Features of the month 26 Why you should wear teal in March 28 Celebrating the 8th of March: a woman in Scotland today 4 From the editor 6 Fashion: 6 A local insight: the life of a blogger. 8 Can Scotland be a fashion capital? 11 Style of the street 15 The androgynous mastermind: Jean Paul Gaultier 18 The future of alternative fashion 20 Style lookbook 25 A new season of Tweed 26 Lifestyle: 33 What’s in my bag 35 Scottish presence at the Oscars 37 Trending TV and film of 2020 38 Contraception and its link to ovarian cancer 40 Beauty: 40 Tips and tricks from the pro’s - Lia Sparrow and Erin Darby. 44 Palm oil in cosmetics: how to avoid it? 47 Is it possible to shop cruelty-free? 49 Behind the walls of North Korean communism. 51 The North-East drag queens. 53 Breaking down barriers one pageant at a time. 55 Ninety-seven years of wisdom. 56 Can you survive on £1 a day for food?
CELEBRATING BUTTS EVERYWHERE MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 3
FROM THE EDITOR
As Shania Twain would put it: “The best thing about being a woman is the prerogative to have a little fun.” To me, the best thing about being a woman in 2020 is freedom. Freedom to choose what we want, to vote for who we want, to love who we want and to read what we want. Freedom to fight for our dream job or to stay our ground when we feel we are not heard loud enough. To do all these in a skirt or in a suit, in heels or in trainers. To do it with bold red lips or without makeup. We are free to choose.
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This issue is a celebration of womanhood in Scotland. With occasion of the 8th of March, Threads focuses on the lives of three women (28), examples of what it’s like to be a woman in Scotland in the 21st century. The magazine also focuses on ovarian cancer (26), as March does not only host the International Women’s Day, but it also is the Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month. It doesn’t matter what type of woman you are, how you look or what you wear. You are free. Happy International Women’s Day, from our team to all women in Scotland.
COVER LOOK Floral dress: ZARA Floral top: ZARA
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Photos by Natbees.
A local insight: The life of a blogger
T
hreads magazine spoke to the brain behind Natbees, the award-winning blog about travel and lifestyle in Scotland. Its proud owner and creator, Anastasia Fountouli, tells what it’s like to be a blogger and how she manages to balance everything in her life on top of the blog. Threads: who is Anastasia? “I’m a travel and lifestyle blogger. I’m from Greece and I’ve been here for ten years now. “I had a completely different pathway than the one I’m currently working on. I am a physics researcher, but I decided that wasn’t for me because I wanted something more stable.
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Written by Natalia Nunez
“I had a look at my life, and what I’m good at, and that’s social media, marketing and digital marketing. So, I applied for this position and now I’m working at RGU in the marketing department.” How did you start the blog? “I started it in 2007, because I was a volunteer guide for international students visiting my university. All these American students had a thing called “blog”. They told me they narrated their stories so their friends and family back home could read them. “I set up my blog, a n d w h i l e I started travelling around Europe, I started writing about my experiences.”
What does being a blogger mean to you? “A blogger is the owner of a blog who keeps up with it, so she doesn’t just establish it and then, after a month, she remembers to write an article. “A blogger is someone who commits to write, to satisfy her audience, to keep up with the trends and to narrate her life.” Sustainability is a big part of your philosophy.Could you tell us about your initiative that promotes charity shops? “The more I travelled around, and I changed cities and countries, the more I accumulated stuff, and I realised all I needed was my luggage.
“I stopped shopping from fast-fashion retailers such as New Look, Primark, Boohoo… Their clothing is not going to last forever, so after two years maximum, you will need to buy more clothes. “These clothes will end up in the landfill, because charity shops aren’t going to accept them if they can’t sell them. “I started focusing on my closet and how my life was, and I started buying only good quality clothes. “If I’m going to buy something expensive, then it will be from a charity shop, and I will treasure it for the rest of my life.” How do you balance your work with blogging and your personal life? “I’m still trying to figure out how to balance it. I wake up very early, I don’t get much sleep generally, and I’m not saying that I’m busy for the sake of saying it; I’m truly busy. “Once I have some time, I will sit down and have a cup of tea and go through all my blog emails. “At least one day of the weekend, say Saturday, will be entirely focused on the blog: produce content, do all my commitments… “It’s a constant battle, and when you are blogger, nothing is certain.”
“If I’m going to buy something expensive, then it will be from a charity shop, and i will treasure it for the rest of my life.” Where do you see yourself in five years? “I’m hoping that I’ll still be working for RGU. About my blog, I would still like it there because it’s, in a way, my baby. So, I would blog once a month or just have a photo diary. “But I will keep blogging.”
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Can Scotland be a fashion capital?
normally poor-quality, tartan hats with red hair on the back. This is just an example of how stereotypical imagery affects Scottish fashion, transforming it into a product, rather than a style.
Written by Natalia Nunez
Moreover, even though there are many independent businesses and designers in the sector that create contemporary garments and clothes, these aren’t necessarily recognised as Scottish.
I
f you google “Scottish fashion” you’re most likely to find entries and pictures about country fashion, tartans, kilts and knitwear.
And, although traditionally Scottish, these items don’t fully represent what contemporary Scottish fashion looks like on the streets. You won’t see people wearing kilts in the centre of Glasgow or Aberdeen. Unless, of course, you find yourself in the middle of football euphoria on a match day. The Scottish textile industry has been at the forefront of the global export market since the 1700s with its knitwear and tartan, shipped to more than 150 countries worldwide. Some of its clients include the likes of Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren. According to Scottish enterprise, these exports are worth £325 million and the Scottish fashion industry in total generates over £50 million each year. Dr Madeleine Marcella-Hood, fashion and PR lecturer at the Robert Gordon University considers textiles important and beneficial to the Scottish economy, but not fashion in its entirety. “If I think of Scottish fashion, then, of course, it is traditional imagery that comes to my mind, just like everybody else’s.” “I think the overarching image of tartan can overshadow other things that are going on in Scotland,” says Madeleine. In the Royal Mile, one of the most prominent landmarks in Edinburgh, tourists are surrounded by many shops that sell, 8 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
Colin Tough, regional retail manager for CLAN Cancer Support with 20 years of experience in fashion, thinks contemporary Scottish style is limited because of the national culture: “We take a negative look at things that are different in this country, and if I saw something from a Milan catwalk walking along the street, it would be more likely to be made fun of rather than appreciated,” says Colin.
One example is Christopher Kane, hired by Versace and proud creator of his own label. He has been praised for making cashmere producer Johnstons of Elgin very profitable by collaborating with the company. Kane, from North Lanarkshire, went to the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London, where other names such as Stella McCartney or Alexander McQueen studied the art of fashion. However, there is an issue that involves all great Scottish designers such as Kane and that is having to move to London to achieve success. The prospects of young designers in Scotland can be obscure sometimes.
“If I saw something from a Milan catwalk walking along the street, it would be more likely to be made fun of rather than appreciated.” Colin Tough, regional manager for CLAN Madeleine says: “There has been a sense that you can’t stay here. But especially now with the digital world, why can’t fashion designers stay in Scotland and achieve success in that way? I think they can.
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“[Going to London] is not a goal that everybody can realise, and it’s not something that everyone wants to do.” Madeleine also argues that having young Scottish designers scattered through Britain might be a way to promote Scotland and represent contemporary Scottish identity by tearing down the stereotypes of kilts. It also applies to bloggers and influencers, the new faces of fashion. Madeleine thinks that these relatively new figures in the fashion scene are especially important in
Scotland
because the country lacks a traditional media infrastructure that represents fashion. Arguably, Scottish fashion is globally underrepresented. There is a Glasgow Fashion Week, as well as one in Edinburgh and Aberdeen, but these events rarely get coverage. “There are many people who are passionate about Scottish fashion and are also quite vocal about the fact that Scotland doesn’t have a fashion industry per se. But we’re not all necessarily talking to one another as much as we should,” Madeleine says.
“I think the overarching image of tartan can overshadow other things that are going on in Scotland.” Madeleine Marcella-Hood, lecturer at Robert Gordon University
“While the novelty of the tartan will forever be a marketable look, it will never be an international leading look and Scotland as a country will not become a global leader in the fashion market.
Colin believes that Scotland isn’t ready to be a fashion capital such as Paris: “Most people in the world would love to see Paris or New York. A far smaller amount want to see Glasgow.” This may be one of the reasons why, in the international fashion scene, no one speaks about these fashion events in the country; why the Glasgow Fashion Week would have to work relentlessly if it ever wants to be mentioned in the same context as the New York Fashion Week. Is it possible for Scottish fashion to position itself at the same level as the fashion giants? Colin predicts that Scotland won’t be a leader in the fashion market: 10 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
“While Scotland may produce some incredible and talented designers, they will have to look elsewhere for the opportunity to be recognised,” he says. Madeleine believes it’s a matter of uniting people who are passionate about fashion: “I think we do have a very strong industry; it’s just bringing it together. Flying the flag for some of the smaller initiatives and bringing these to the fore.” Scotland has a very long journey ahead if it wants to become relevant in the international scene. Not giving up its traditions is part of the national identity, but can the country overcome the barriers these traditions pose to modernity and contemporary fashion? Only time can tell.
Style of the street
Calandra Middleton, 20, Shoes- Just Fab Jacket- Armstrong (vintage) Skirt- Monki Top - Yes astyle Sunglasses - Shop Miss A Bag - vintage Waistcoat - vintage Earrings - Claire’s MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 11
Aimee Kent, 21, Shoes - Vans Dress - Asda George Jacket - Pretty Little Thing Bag - Pretty Little Thing Earrings - vintage
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Juliett Ruck, 21, Jacket - Primark Dress - Primark Bag - charity shop Shoes - Doc Martens Earings - handmade Sunglasses - Dfflelou
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Vicky K., 25, Shoes - Doc Martens Jeans - Pull&Bear Coat - La Petite Française Bag - Jost Scarf - Kiltane
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Photo by Editerna
The androgynous mastermind:
Written by Natalia Nunez
MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 15
A
ndrogyny is defined by the Cambridge dictionary as “an appearance that is not male or female,” and it’s something that Jean Paul Gaultier embraced wholeheartedly.
urged him to send his designs to the most prominent fashion houses such as Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. Ultimately, he entered the Cardin fashion house when he turned 18 before he even finished his high school studies.
Blurring the limits between femininity and masculinity in fashion, his iconic creations were worn by personalities such as Madonna and Kylie Minogue.
“A man does not wear his masculinity in his clothes. His virility is in his head.”
With his witty sarcasm and sharp intelligence, Gaultier established himself as one of the masterminds of French and international fashion. In January 2020, 50 years after his debut in the fashion scene, the 67-year-old couturier announced his retirement with a big show that left everyone at the Théâtre du Chatelet speechless. Coming from a working-class neighbourhood in the outskirts of Paris, the “enfant terrible” (unruly child) of fashion, worked relentlessly to become the renowned designer that he is today.
During the period he worked with Cardin, he spent a year living in the Philippines, first travelling to Nepal and India. This had a huge impact on him and inspired him to launch his own label in the seventies. His first named collection was presented in October 1976, made possible thanks to loans, the little money he had and his infinite imagination. The couturier established himself in the early stages of his fashion career as someone who challenged perceptions of “good taste” and tradition in clothing.
Deeply influenced by his beloved grandmother, who was a pioneer in alternative healing and an avid fortune reader, Gaultier started drawing fashion designs when he was just a teenager.
His early attempts of what was then-
His first shows were hosted in his imagination, and his clothes were worn by models he made up. His creations were inspired by TV shows (which ones) he watched while he stayed at his grandmother’s house.
der-fluid fashion being mainstream
The designs he created while he was young acted as his education, as he never had the opportunity to attend a fashion school. However, his parents 16 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
called his androgynous style were both praised and criticized by experts of the industry, fellow designers and journalists. Despite unisex streetwear and gennowadays, back then it was regarded as revolutionary. Gender roles and what was considered as “masculine” or “feminine” were deeply established in the roots of French society, but Gaultier questioned social norms by putting men into skirts and women into powerful suits.
His 1984 collection was presented at the show “Et Dieu Créa L’Homme”, which translates to “And God created man”. This was the first example of how the French couturier was and is capable of crossing sexual and gender stereotypes. Male models walked down the runway in skirts, to the amazement of all those who were present at the show. Speaking in the biography Jean Paul Gaultier, he once said: “Putting a skirt on a man is not a travesty but putting a bra on him is.” This is because, although he wanted to challenge everything he saw, that did not mean that there was no logic behind this irreverent attitude. He also stated that: “A man does not wear his masculinity in his clothes. His virility is in his head.” His challenge to gendered social norms was not only expressed in catwalks, but also his own style as a mannequin of camp, kitsch, and women’s clothes. It was also his complete honesty about his sexual orientation and his trips to London, which included many visits to gay and straight nightclubs, which allowed him to have total freedom to experiment with his designs. But, as with anything irreverent and different, he and his creations were the targets of hard criticism. The Washington Post accused him of offending everybody; Women’s Wear Daily also criticized him and accused one of his lingerie collections of being X-rated and sadomasochistic. Gaultier responded by sending the owner of the journal a series of pho-
Gaultier (left) with Conchita Wurst (right), photo by Manfred Werner - Tsui
tos of sadomasochistic sex to explicitly show the difference between his collection and hardcore porn. It was not only his gender-bender attitude towards fashion that made Gaultier a prominent figure in the fashion industry; he was a pioneer in diversity on the runway. While some designers and firms are still struggling with inclusiveness in their shows, such as lingerie-brand Victoria’s Secret, Gaultier has advocated for variety in his model choices. His Spring-Summer 1991 show featured men and women of all racial diversity and ages, in a celebration that included dancing and clothes swapping. He said: “I want to design for women as they are… women have trauma-
“Women have traumatized themselves for the past twenty years for a physical ideal which doesn’t have anything to do with true style.”
versity, his last show brought togeth-
tized themselves for the past twenty years, often spoiled their health and frazzled their nerves for a physical ideal which doesn’t have anything to do with true style.”
will still be involved in more future
Having already retired from prèt-
the belief that he won’t cease to sur-
a-porter (ready-to-wear) fashion in 2015, Gaultier has now bid farewell to haute couture as of the 22nd of January in his native Paris. With a celebration of camp, kitsch, and di-
er some of his most trusted friends, such as Rossy de Palma, alongside designers like Lacroix and Clare Waight Keller. In the statement published on various social media, the designer made his retirement public but admitted that he had more plans and that he projects. Although we won’t be able to witness any more of Gaultier’s eccentric designs on the catwalk, there is prise us even after his retirement. It is exactly this sense of surprise that accompanied his collections, which positioned him as one of the masterminds of French fashion. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 17
The future of alternative fashion Written by Natasha Franklin
I
n recent years, following the decline of physical alternative stores, the alternative clothing market has moved online. In the last decade, more than half of the independent alternative fashion stores have disappeared from the high street, and Aberdeen alone has seen two alternative stores close. Alternative fashion is described as a determined clothing style which, at one point in history, stood apart from society’s mainstream fashion. This style is commonly attributed to goths and emos, making the industry appear as a very niche market. In reality, the alternative fashion sector caters to many different sub-cultures, including the scene (characterised by skinny jeans and straight flat hair with long fringes), hip-hop, heavy metal, cyberpunk and lolita
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(japanese style characterised by Victorian-inspired dresses). Common clichés of the industry are that all of the clothes are scary and aggressively looking, which isn’t necessarily true, as many vintage and unusual clothing can be considered as alternative fashion, like leather jackets, platform boots, corsets and studded boots.
However, this also isolates the industry and has a massive impact on the price and availability of the clothing. Threads magazine speaks to Taylor McKenzie, the manager and director of Seritque, an alternative fashion shop based in Aberdeen. “We were forced to close the door on our Belmont Street store as the rent was too high. “We found that although we had a small number of loyal customers, they were not enough to keep the store afloat,” says Taylor. “So, we decided to move to the online market.” She considers the online market as a very competitive one, which leads to people choosing to use physical stores to browse for items and then sourcing the items online.
“The online alternative
fashion industry is expensive. Unfortunately, until more people start buying the clothes this will not change.”
“Many don’t realise it, but this hurts the small independent stores the most,” Taylor adds.
She states that this would bring down delivery and customs fees and would make the garments more affordable
Online stores can be more cost-efficient and convenient,
Seritque is not the only store that was forced to move due to
which leads to the question: is there a need for physical alternative stores?
high rental issues. A Glasgow-based alternative shop called Orise also suffered the same fate, andit merged with a neighbouring store to afford to stay open.
For many UK residents, the answer is yes. This comes as most of the alternative fashion websites are based in the US, which translates intomeansdelivery charges and customs fees being high, and making fashion less accessible. Taylor thinks that until more people start buying these clothes, alternative fashion will remain expensive.
Could this be the end of independent alternative clothing stores? The future of the this market is uncertain, but it would appear its destiny is to become a fully cyber market within the next decade.
When asked about the future of this declining industry, Taylor believes there is a need for more UK businesses to supply alternative clothing.
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STYLE LOOKBOOK Styled and modelled by Natalia Nunez and Vanya Chapkanova Photographed by Natasha Franklin 20 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
ALL ABOUT DENIM Jeans (left) - ZARA Floral top - ZARA Jeans (right) - MANGO Cardigan - Jack Wills
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SPRING FLORALS Dress - Lipsy
“Florals? For spring? Grounbreaking.” The Devil Wears Prada (2006).
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LEATHER ALL THE WAY
Floral top - ZARA Leather skirt - H&M
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ATEMPORAL TRENCH COATS Trench - H&M Heeled boots - Gloria Ortiz
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A new season of tweed Written by Elysia-Jade Song Director, Tom Bucknall, sits down with Trend Magazine and gives an insight into why House of Tweed has gained so much popularity.
L
uxury handbags and acces-
sories specialists House of Tweed are famous for using bespoke designed tweed fabrics. They currently stock products in various shops throughout the UK and Europe such as The House of Bruar. They also supply to many outdoor events including The Royal Highland Show, Horse of the Year and Country Living shows. Their experienced design team is at the forefront of fashion and prides themselves on producing high quality and intricate details of products combined with exemplary services. Scott Hadley, the owner of House of Tweed, originally started the company as a small stall in his local market. Using his own company Classy Bags, he soon realised there was a gap in the market from affordable tweed bags and the huge opportunity for him. Today, House of Tweed supplies to 18 different stores around the UK and Europe, and are still growing fast.
“We have 30 different types of tweed, including bright colours. This is a huge bonus for us as most tweed designs are in your normal, simple green tweed.
Looking towards the future, House of Tweed are proud to present their new spring line of 2020. This May, customers can look out for the release of the tweed capes that will be coming out in seven different colours. House of Tweed hope that in a couple of years they will be able to produce them in the same 30 different tweeds they use in the bags.
“We are also creating different products to conform with the ever-changing fashion market. For instance, this year we are bringing out our own tweed capes, and stag handbags as tribute to our logo,” Bucknall says. While speaking about their distinctive stag logo, Bucknall reveals the inspiration behind it: “It’s very country! We were playing around with different ideas and it was the one that we thought of first and felt looked the best. It sits really well with the name, and you can do a lot with it. For instance, our stag scarfs that we are bringing out this year and also handbags.”
The capes will be lined with a fauxfur collar to add a more glam and modern look. In regards to their upcoming spring line, Bucknall says: “We are releasing a new line of hats, last year we only produced two however, this year we are bringing out 30 different colour and 30 different styles. “We are just excited to see the expansion of our range, and the popularity of tweed growing!”
According to Tom, the importance of tweed in Scottish fashion culture is of high significance. Due to the large number of tourists that visit Scotland every year, the tweed designs sell well due to the fact they are seen as ‘very Scottish’ and people buy largely into that concept. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 25
Why You Should Wear Teal In March Written by Katherine McPhillips
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T
his March, it’s important to remember that not all cancer is pink. Sometimes, it might be teal. Threads Magazine decided to focus on ovarian cancer to spread awareness, given that March is the ovarian cancer awareness month. This disease is sometimes overlooked or misdiagnosed because of the lack of public knowledge. That’s why it’s time to ovary-act and stay informed. Why is ovarian cancer awareness so important? In 2015, the Target Ovarian Cancer charity shared a report, which claimed that thousands of women are dying from ovarian cancer due to postcode lottery. This means that depending on where they live, some women have less chance of surviving ovarian cancer. In Scotland, only 13 per cent of women with ovarian cancer are in clinical trials. These trials are crucial for finding new treatments. They are also very important as they give patients access to the highest possible standard of healthcare. Research shows that participation improves their chances of survival. Furthermore, 39 per cent of Scottish women live five years or more after diagnosis. In Britain 12 or more women die of ovarian cancer every day. That’s a grim survival rate, considering that one in 50 women in Britain will be diagnosed with ovarian cancer at some point during their lifetime. The issue is that ovarian cancer is often diagnosed late as symptoms can be difficult to detect. Forty-four per cent of doctors believe that ovarian cancer symptoms can only be detected in the later stages, while many others deny this. The earlier any cancer is detected, the bigger the chance of survival. With ovarian cancer, women have a 90 per
cent survival rate if diagnosed early. Big Brother reality star Jade Goody is well known for having brought ovarian cancer into the public spotlight. The celebrity was diagnosed with cancer in 2008 and died a year later. Jade’s campaign to raise public awareness about ovarian cancer inspired Channel 4 to make a documentary about her, calling her “the reality star who changed Britain”. She admitted to suffering from symptoms for over three years before her diagnosis and was told by doctors that she had extreme period pain. After her death, the number of women seeking information about ovarian cancer increased for a short time, but as of 2020, the figures have declined.
However, if you are worried, it’s best to make an appointment with your doctor. When in doubt, get it checked out. To help draw attention to Ovarian Awareness Month, charity Target Ovarian Cancer is calling on Westminster and the Scottish Government to put an end to the postcode lottery. This year, the charity has launched a campaign called ‘TAKE OVAR’ to inform women of ovarian cancer and to educate doctors more on the symptoms. This can help create a better future, where women have a bigger chance of surviving the disease.
Ovarian cancer symptoms can often seem like symptoms for more common and less critical conditions, like irritable bowel syndrome. Detectable symptoms become obvious only in the late stages. There is such a lack of public knowledge on ovarian cancer that only ten per cent of women in Scotland feel confident that they would be able to detect the symptoms. According to the NHS, the most common symptoms for ovarian cancer are continually feeling bloated, stomach or pelvic pain, a loss of appetite (or feeling full instantly while eating) and needing to go to the bathroom more often than usual. If you have any of these symptoms – don’t panic. It’s important not to jump to the worse conclusion as these symptoms are normal for people suffering much more widespread illnesses. The NHS stresses that you should go see a doctor if you have been feeling bloated more than 12 times in a month or have suffered from two or more of these symptoms. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 27
Celebrating the
8
th
of March: a Woman in Scotland today
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hey wake up at six to go to the gym. They get back home to shower and eat breakfast. They drive the children to school. They work nine to five. After that, they cook, clean, and do the laundry. They help the children with their homework. They iron their husband’s shirt, and then they’re finally ready for bed. They always have to make an effort to look good. They shouldn’t swear, they must be ladies. They are expected to follow the news and have opinions. Who are they? They are just average women. You know them, we know them. But are women superheroes? Why do we expect so much from them? For centuries, females have undertaken the role of the child bearer and home keeper. Traditional jobs have been hu28 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
Written by Vanya Chapkanova manitarian-related, like teachers, nurses, secretaries and waitresses. It was not until the 20th century that women succeeded in the fight for equality. The suffrage movement gave them the right to vote. Before the First World War, women were kept at home and weren’t active in the public sphere. However, during the Second World War, women proved that they had a place outside the home and they could work in factories and contribute to the economy. After the Second World War, women felt empowered and they didn’t wish to go back home. Yet, the 50s’ American propaganda reintroduced and reinforced the traditional female role as the passive housekeeper.
In recent years, we have witnessed boundaries between genders and their assigned roles break. Since the mid-20th century, women have begun possessing more male-dominated roles in leadership and politics. The percentage of women who work in business, medicine and law have risen significantly. Every year on the 8th of March, we celebrate International Women’s Day. Emerging from the labour movements in the 20th century, this anniversary aims to recognise women, their achievements and contribution to society. It helps create a dimension to build support for women’s rights and their participation in politics and economics. The United Nations has always promoted the participation of women “in achieving sustainable development, peace, security, and full respect for human rights”. It was the Charter of the UN that signed the first national agreement to affirm the principle of equality in 1945. Last year, the UN came up with the slogan “Think equal, build smart, innovate for change” for International Women’s Day. As part of their Sustainable Development Goals, the UN tries to identify “innovative ways to advance gender equality and the empowerment of women”. The UN Secretary-General Antonio Guterres said: “Let’s make sure women and girls can shape the policies, services and infrastructure that impact all our lives. And let’s support women and girls who are breaking down barriers to create a better world for everyone.”
In Scotland, between the 16 and 18th century, women’s roles were heavily influenced by the Church, and whether they adhered to the morality determined by religion. For instance, the Great Scottish Witch Hunt sent hundreds of women to trial. They were accused of witchcraft and speaking to the devil, and then executed. Eleanor Gordon’s “Women and the Labour Movement in Scotland” (1850-1914) explored women’s participation in labour and politics and proved that gender and class were not a valid explanation for women’s social position.
“Think equal, build smart, innovate for change.” Kate Stott, Scottish entrepreneur In the early 20th century, Scottish Suffragette movements supported women and their right to vote. Women like Elsie Inglis, Flora Drummond, Helen Crawford and many others fought for equality. But what is a woman in Scotland like today? Threads Magazine interviews three successful and inspirational women across the country. They share their personal stories, their views on important issues and their experiences with sexism to help inspire and empower our readers.
with many business awards, such as Beauty Entrepreneur of 2019 in the Scottish Business Woman awards. Kate developed an app called BeautyBooker to encourage customer bookings for hair, beauty and nail salons, and spas in north-eastern Scotland. While she was living in Dubai she got inspired to combine her knowledge and desire and create a more convenient way to book beauty treatments in the smartphone age. “[Living in Dubai] really opened my eyes to consumerism and what the UK was missing for consumers in the digital space. “As Dubai westernised and grew, this culture fast became a consumer-driven one, which centred around providing the very best services for tourists, ex-pats and locals, with business models that precipitated what Deliveroo and JustEat offer to the UK now.”
Our first interviewee is Kate Stott, a Scottish entrepreneur, and mother of three. Coming from an oil and gas background, she has been recognised MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 29
The mobile app provides a “directory for hair and beauty business owners to showcase their work, list their customer reviews and provide their real-time availability allowing new and existing customers to book them at a click of a button”. “In a world of constant scrolling, comments and likes, BeautyBooker wanted to provide a space where people can access and book what they wanted quickly,” says Kate. When we ask her about her experience winning the Beauty Entrepreneur, she says:
“There’s nothing else I love more than learning new skills and building on my knowledge of all things,” she tells Threads magazine. For Kate, being a woman in Scotland today means freedom to be whoever she wants to be and have her own think, views. She believes women can be entrepreneurs if ponder. they manage to overcome their cautiousness:
“Don’t don’t If you truly believe that you can do it, do it.” Kate Stott
“Not only did it feel incredible to be rewarded so soon after launching the business, but I felt extremely fortunate to be in the presence of a room full of wonderful women doing incredible things in business.” In December 2019, she was also awarded Scottish Business Woman of the Year by the National Business Woman’s Awards. Moreover, she was shortlisted for Health & Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year with the Great British Entrepreneur Awards. Her app was recently awarded “Most innovative Hair & Beauty App” in the UK.
Coming from a male-dominanated background, Kate knows how difficult it could be for women to succeed in business. “Luckily, I worked for an employer that invested heavily in training & promoting females. Opportunities were always available. “It wasn’t until later in life that I witnessed the inequalities within the industry,” she says. Kate thinks we still have a lot to do to manage the gender gap in Scotland:
“I meet many women who say ‘I’ve got an idea but I can’t do it’.
“Ultimately we are all fearful of failure but I believe if we can overcome those fears and empower women to believe in themselves then we can create an amazing culture of entrepreneurship.” Her advice to women who want to be entrepreneurs? “Don’t think, don’t ponder. If you truly believe that you can do it, do it,” says Kate. In order to find out what women in different sectors think, Threads magazine spoke to Dr Deborah O’Neil, a biotechnologist and immunologist. She considers Scotland to be a great place for entrepreneurs and scientists. Deborah is the founder of NovaBiotics, a platform for the development of antibacterial and antifungal therapies. She is the editor of the European Biopharmaceutical Review and International Pharmaceutical Technology, a member of the Scottish Life Science Industry Leadership Group and sits on the Advisory Board of the Scottish Life Sciences Association. She has won awards for her impressive work, such as the Ernst & Young’s UK Healthcare Products & services Entrepreneur of the Year in 2014.
“I have lived and spent time in various countries around the world, some including countries where woman are oppressed by religion or culture. Sadly, the reality is many women around the world are being held back personally and within their work-life by such limits.” But what keeps her motivated? “I have three wonderful children and an incredibly supportive husband that inspire me every day to be the very best I can be. “I have a drive within me to deliver my goals along with a determined spirit that keeps me engaged in my work.
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In January 2017, Deborah became one of the 15 women leaders in European Biotechnology.
She says she gets her inspiration from the demand and the potential impact of the antimicrobial medicines she develops with her team:
ing and improving the way women and girls are supported where they are experiencing gender-based abuse and closing the gender pay gap.”
“Every day doing this as our drug candidates progress towards the clinic and market there’s new things to learn.”
The SNP is working hard to eradicate the pay gap in Scotland. Their Gender Pay Action Plan from 2019 aims to reduce the pay gap significantly by 2021.
Although the biological science remains a predominantly female field, Deborah recognises the need for more female leaders in other sectors:
“I know it has made good progress over the last few years. Closing the gender pay gap takes decades how“There are less real ever, for this effort to succeed, you must have “We need more women in senior/leadership barriers than you buy-in from the top and I think the Plan reflects roles and Aberdeen could be seen to be leading this pretty well,” she says. the way with female life science CEOs outnum- think and probably more only per- Audrey knows that her work is never done and bering male CEOs in this sector.” ceived.” Deborah that motivates her: What is her advice to our readers? To simply go O’Neil, for it. “Making a difference really inspires me to keep going and do more. This applies at all levels: biotechnologist “There are less real barriers than you think and from helping someone with a housing issue, to probably more only perceived. It will probably persuading the Council to do something (or not be harder work than you imagined and a different route to do something) that will have a positive impact on the City. achieving what you set out to do, but along the way and when you get there, it will be more rewarding and you’ll have “There are always people living in really difficult situations learned more than you could have imagined,” Deborah says. that need support, compassion and a voice and I want to be able to offer that to them.” Threads Magazine also interviews Audrey Nicoll, a Scottish National Party (SNP) politician and an Aberdeen councillor. Audrey believes women’s role in politics has never been so She thinks Scottish women have strong identities: important: “If you look back over the decades, women had an important role in the war effort, industry, education, the arts and in family life. I’m really proud that Scottish women have a great sense of humour, don’t take ourselves too seriously and speak our mind too. “In Scotland, we embrace difference and welcome diversity.” Audrey gives examples of how the SNP supports women: “Scotland has been leading the way in the UK in embracing many opportunities that support and promote women’s rights and opportunities. “Some are specific to women, for example, free sanitary products, promoting opportunities for girls and young women in education – in particular STEM subjects, and develop-
“Politics is a rich and fulfilling career, hard work, interesting, challenging, frustrating, but really rewarding. “In Scotland, there has never been a better time for women to get involved in politics, regardless of their political persuasion, and frankly, women make a unique contribution that men cannot make.” Audrey wants to encourage women to be brave, despite their insecurities. She says: “Sometimes I haven’t felt particularly ready for a new challenge but I’m not afraid to ask and I’ve always be surrounded by people who have offered me support and encouragement. “I always remind myself ‘If you feel you are in your comfort zone, you are playing it too safe!’” Undoubtedly, women have been oppressed and silenced throughout history. They have fought for gender equality and social justice. From maids to factory workers, from teachers to entrepreneurs, women have earned their place next to men in all fields of work. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 31
‘If you feel you are in your comfort zone, you are playing it too safe!” Audrey Nicoll, SNP Aberdeen Councillor These three successful Scottish women prove that there are no barriers when it comes to hunger for success. Kate, Deborah and Audrey all had one thing in common- they weren’t afraid to try, despite their fears. Who are they? They are women, and they can be whoever they want to be.
History of the 8th of March 1909, 28th of February: The first National Women’s Day takes place in the United States. 1910: The Socialist International established Women’s Day in Copenhagen. 1911, 19th of March: International Women’s Day marked on this day for the first time in Austria, Denmark, Germany and Switzerland. 1913-1914: International Women’s Day became a movement against the First World War. 1917: Women in Russia were granted the right to vote. 1975: During International Women’s Year, the UN began celebrating International Women’s Day on the 8th of March. 1995: The Beijing Declaration and Platform for Action were signed, giving women more rights such as getting an education. 2014: The 58th session of the Commission on the Status of Women (annual gathering of the States to address critical issues related to women’s right) - focuses on “challenges and achievements in the implementation of the Millennium Development Goals for women and girls”. 2015: Countries adopted the 2030 agenda for Sustainable Development and its 17 Sustainable Development Goals. Goal 5 reads: “Achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls.”
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What’s in my bag Just like the rest of society, here at Threads we are super nosey. We love to know what secrets people are hiding, especially in their handbags. So we thought we’d support our fellow nosey... we mean inquesitive readers and give you a glimpse into the world that is our handbags.
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Our handbags are filled with different artifacts that help us through a busy day at Threads. From hand sanitiser (gotta keep clean) to our favourite magazines, we’re sorted for a busy day of meeting and interviews. Brownie points to whoever spots the famous hairband that is always at the bottom of any girl’s handbag. 34 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
Scottish presence at the Oscars Written by Natalia Nunez
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haken by the genre-bending South Korean film Parasite, the annual 92nd edition of the Academy Awards took place at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles in February. Most known as The Oscars, these annual awards of cinema and arts reward the best Motion Picture projects every year in a celebration of Hollywood’s opulence, richness and stardom. An ocean away, while its presence in the Oscars has been latent throughout the years, Scotland is working hard on its cinema industry. Frank Lloyd, a Glaswegian, was one of the founders of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and its president from 1934 to 1935. He became the first Scottish winner of one of the statuettes for the Best Director category, praising his 1929’s Devine Lady. One of the most renowned Scottish actors and winner of one of the statuettes for Best Supporting Actor in 1987 for his role in The Untouchable, is Sir Sean Connery. Other prominent examples of the Scottish presence at the Oscars are Peter Capaldi, another Glaswegian that won in 1995 for his piece Franz Kafka’s It’s a Wonderful Life, and Tilda Swinton, who was born in London but considers herself an “exiled” Scot. She received the Oscar for the Best Supporting Actress in 2009 for Michael Clayton. This edition was especially remarkable thanks to Glasgowborn screenwriter Krysty Wilson-Cairns, who was nominated for the Best Original Screenplay for 1917. The Great War-inspired film which she co-wrote with Sam Mendes was nominated to ten Oscars and won in the categories of Best Cinematography, Best Sound Mixing and Best Visual Effects. Threads spoke to Sarah Grant, Scottish filmmaker and writer: “Krysty is a powerhouse of a writer and her success writing films that have been directed by Sam Mendes and Edgar Wright is a huge deal for women, for young people and for Scotland.”
“We are a small country with a loud voice and a deep-rooted love for stories.” Sarah Grant, Scottish filmmaker MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 35
Krysty started working as a runner, someone who provides vital assistance to senior figures within a production. She got her first job experience when she was just 15 years old with the TV show Taggart, who used to film in Govan, where her father worked. Now, the 32-year-old has worked not only with Sam Mendes but also with Steven Spielberg. Krysty was the only woman nominated for the Best Original Screenplay category this year. The Oscars have been criticised by media and actors themselves for being predominantly male-led and perpetuating traditional and sexist views of women. This year, Natalie Portman’s outfit was a black and gold statement signed by Dior. The actress wore a cape embroidered with the names of female directors who weren’t nominated for the Best Director category. These included the likes of Lulu Wang with The Farewell, and Greta Gerwig with Little Women. “The industry is crying out for fresh female voices and hers [Krysty’s] is one of them,” says Sarah. “We are a small country with a loud voice and a deep-rooted love for stories. Seeing a Scottish voice at the forefront of the most prestigious award ceremony in the world is both uplifting and inspiring.” The public has seen cinematographers flying the flag for Scotland at the Academy Awards. But why isn’t Scotland making as much noise as South Korea did with Parasite? Sarah argues that there are barriers that prevent the Scottish film industry from living up to its potential. She says:“Scotland definitely has the potential to be making films, but I don’t think this will ever happen unless there is a real shift in the government’s focus towards the Scottish film industry. 36 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
“While some huge films and TV series, such as Outlander and Outlaw King have been filmed in Scotland and offered much financial support from the Scottish funding bodies to do so, these are American productions. There is very little real financial support for up and coming or independent filmmakers to make ‘Scottish films.’” In order to promote Scottish films and overcome these barriers, Screen Scotland offers a specific fund for projects by filmmakers based in Scotland. This includes live-action, animation and documentaries of all genres. Moreover, the British Academy of Film and Television Arts annually celebrates the BAFTA Scotland Awards. This Scottish version of the most prestigious British accolades for cinematography rewards the highest achievements in Scottish Film, Television and Games. “I think Scotland is a great place for anyone looking to get into cinematography or any sort of camera operating role. It is easy when you are an independent filmmaker to take advantage of the dramatic, beautiful and sweeping scenery available just outside your door,” Sarah adds. “I personally don’t believe that going to London is the answer for young creatives, unless they are going for a specific project or job, and not just to live the dream. Scotland is smaller, more liberal and supportive.” With Krysty as the example of a young Scottish screenwriter who has made it into the big table, it may be time for other Scottish cinematographers to step out and get the recognition they deserve. Sarah concludes with a message of hope for her fellow cinema professionals: “Hopefully she [Krysty] will be the trailblazer that will open up many opportunities for young Scottish screenwriters.”
Wilson-Cairns’ success 2009 – Wilson-Cairns graduates from the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama, in Glasgow. 2013 – She finishes her MA degree in Screenwriting at the National Film and Television School, in England.
2014 – She sells her first feature script, named Aether. She is named one of the Starts of Tomorrow by Screen magazine and she is hired to write The Good Nurse. 2015 – She writes two episodes of Penny Dreadful.
2016 – She becomes screenwriter-in-residence at the Edinburgh International Film Festival. 2017 – She appears on Forbes Magazine’s 30 under 30 list in Hollywood and Entertainment. 2019 – She co-writes 1917 with Sam Mendes and Last Night in Soho.
Trending TV and Film of 2020 Written by Natasha Franklin
Sex Education
Sex Education is a Netflix original TV show. It follows the life of a teenage boy whose mother is a sex therapist and his classmate. The two students team up to start their very own sex clinic. The show scored an average rating of 8.3 stars on IMDB and 97% rating on Rotten Tomatoes.
Sabrina, The Teenage Witch
Sabrina, The Teenage Witch, follows the story of a half-witch, half-human teenage girl. The show is a Netflix original series.
His Dark Materials
His Dark Materials is a BBC drama based around the story of the Golden Compass. The show aired on BBC 1 in 2019 and has since been renewed for a second series. It was given a rating of 8 stars on IMDB.
To All The Boys I’ve Loved Before, P.S I still love you. After the success of the first movie, Netflix decided to release the highly anticipated follow on. The story follows the main character Lara-jean and the struggles of having your first ever boyfriend. The movie
Love Island
Love Island is a reality tv show designed to help its contestants find love. It was a BAFTA award winner in 2018 and is hosted by Laura Whitmore. Fans can still watch it on IPlayer.
Star Trek Picard
Star Trek Picard is season one is the lastest TV instalment to the Star Trek universe. The show follows a slower and more in-depth approach to the series while exploring timeless themes.
scored nine stars on IMBD.
Birds of Prey
After breaking up with the Joker, Harley is made to fight for life with the help of some friends when old enemies resurface. The film came out in cinemas on the 7th of February 2020. It also received a 75% rating on IMDB.
Frozen 2
Frozen 2 follows Elsa’s quest for answers, regarding her powers and the hidden past of her parents.
Sonic the Hedgehog
Sonic the Hedgehog opened in theatres on the 14th of February 2020. The story follows Sonic and his human companion Tom Wachowski and their fight against Dr Robotnik. The movie received a 95% audience rating on Rotten Tomatoes. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 37
Contraception and its link to ovarian cancer Written by Vanya Chapkanova Important disclaimer: Some of the listed methods only protect against unwanted pregnancy but don’t prevent sexually transmitted diseases. The only safe protection against STDs is the use of condoms.
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arch is the Ovarian Cancer awareness month, and in order to raise awareness about this disease , Threads Magazine decided to create a guide to the methods of contraception available on the NHS. With over 15 methods available in the UK, choosing the right one might be confusing. To find the best contraception
according to your health, lifestyle and preference, it’s always best to consult with a General Practitioner. Some studies link the use of combined oral contraception drugs to a lower chance of developing ovarian cancer, due to their effect on ovulation. Researchers from the University of Aberdeen in Scotland and the University of Copenhagen in Denmark found that the number of cases of ovarian cancer were highest in women who had never used hormonal contraception. They analysed data for nearly 1.9 million Danish women aged between 15 and 49 years between 1995 and 2014. The results showed that hormonal contraception prevented an estimated 21% of ovarian cancers in the group of women observed.
Diaphragm/Caps92-96% effective
Condoms - 99% effective
A contraceptive diaphragm is a soft silicone dome that’s inserted into the vagina before sex. It covers the cervix to prevent the uterus from being fertilised by the sperm. A cervical cap is similar but smaller. Diaphragms and caps are meant to be used with a spermicide cream or gel that kills sperm. Pros: Not hormonal side effects; only used during sex Cons: Needs to be used with a spermicide; need to make sure it’s the right size; doesn’t protect from STDs
Condoms are the only way to prevent unwanted sexually transmitted infections. Male condoms are worn on the penis and act as a barrier method to stop the sperm from reaching the egg. They’re made from latex and are safe to use with water-based lubricants. Female condoms are worn inside the vagina. They’re also made from latex and protect the womb from the semen. Pros: Effective against STDs; only used during intercourse; no side effects Cons: Latex allergies; can split or slip off
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Contraceptive implant- more than 90% effective
The contraceptive implant is a small plastic rod that is placed under the skin in your arm. It prevents pregnancy by releasing progestogen into your bloodstream and can last for 3 years. Pros: No need to remember to take the pill; no oestrogen (if allergic); lighter periods Cons: Insertion can be painful; some medication can make it less effective; doesn’t protect from STDs; can cause side effects
Combined pill - 99% effective The pill contains artificial versions of oestrogen and progesterone, which stop natural ovulation. It’s usually taken around the same time daily for 21 days straight each month.There is a seven-day pause during which you get a bleed similar to a period. Missing a pill can result in an unwanted pregnancy, vomiting and severe diarrhoea. Some medicines might make the pill ineffective. Pros: Lighter periods; reduces the risk of ovarian and uterine cancer Cons: Can cause side effects; not effective in combination with some medicine; doesn’t protect from STDs The Mini pill/ Progestogen-only pill- 99% effective (if used correctly)
Contraceptive patch - 98% effective The contraceptive patch is a small sticky patch that releases hormones into your body through your skin in your bloodstream to prevent pregnancy. The patch needs to be changed weekly for three weeks every month, with a week off without a patch, when you usually but not always have a bleed similar to a period. Pros: Still effective if you’re sick (vomit) or have diarrhoea; no need to remember to take a pill; lighter periods; reduces the risk of ovarian, womb and bowel cancer, fibroids, ovarian cysts and non-cancerous breast disease Cons: Doesn’t protect from STDs; can cause side effects; some medication can make it less effective
Picture by NHS Scotland
The contraceptive injection - 98% effective The contraceptive injection is similar to the implant- it releases the progestogen into your bloodstream to prevent pregnancy. However, the effect lasts for 8 to 13 weeks. Pros: No need to remember to take the pill; No oestrogen (if allergic); Lighter periods Cons: Does not protect from STDs; Can cause side effects; It can take up to a year for fertility to return to normal after using it
Intrauterine device (IUD)/ Coil/ IUS - 98% effective An IUD or coil is a small plastic and copper device that is inserted into the uterus It releases copper, which is toxic to sperm to protect against pregnancy and lasts for between five and ten years. Pros: No need to remember to take a pill; not hormonal Cons: Doesn’t protect from STDs; mway cause heavier periods; insertion may be painful; can cause pelvic infections or can be rejected An IUS is similar to IUD, however, it releases the progestogen to protect against pregnancies and lasts between three and five years.
Picture by NHS Scotland
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Tips and tricks from the pro’s Written by Elysia -Jade Song
Erin Darby What got you into makeup? “I’ve always loved doing makeup. From a young age, I was always on YouTube watching makeup tutorials. That’s where I learned the majority of my skills as I’m self-taught.”
end and low-end products. I love the Revolution concealer, I find it to be just as good as the Tarte Shape Tape. Makeup is all about trial and error, you’ll never know if a product is any good if you don’t pick it up.”
What made you want to do makeup professionally? “I never really thought I would do it. I used to spend hours sitting in my room doing my own makeup and posting them for fun and lots of responses of girls asking me to do their makeup. At the time I was still nervous to paint other people’s faces. “I started doing my friends’ makeup at first, so I could get the hang of different eye shapes, as it is a lot different than doing your own face. I then went on a two-day course at the Plouise Makeup Academy in Manchester so I could further develop my skills.”
What is your typical day when doing someone’s makeup for them (how do you prepare, etc)? “I prepare first packing my makeup case, making sure I have everything sorted for my first appointment. I also clean my brushes before each appointment. This is essential in this field of work as germs can be easily passed, so it’s always best to take the correct sanitisation procedures before each client. Also, as I sometimes travel to clients, I have to plan ahead on traveling to and from appointments.”
What is your favourite high end and drugstore products to use when doing makeup? “I would definitely say MAC foundation is one of my favourites. It just gives such a lovely finish whenever I use it on someone. I would also say I couldn’t be able to do what I do without the Plouise base. I honestly cannot live without it, it’s my holy grail - the best eyeshadow primer on the market and it is only £10. “I tend to use a mixed variety of high-
What tips and tricks have you picked up since being a makeup artist? “I’d say some of my best tips and tricks would be always to build up and eyeshadow pigment before blending. Concentrating on one part of the eye lid will help you to keep that pigment instead of blending it out and having to re-apply. “Holding the brush further down will give you a much lighter hand and can help to create neater eyeshadow application. When you do a client’s foundation, you can sometimes see
there are brush strokes- gently dap over it with a beauty blender and it will give you a flawless finish.” What advice would you give to anyone starting out? “To just go for it. If you love it then do what you love. “Practice makes perfect, so never doubt your skills. If not having the biggest kit is stopping you from doing it, start out slowly. Every time you do get a client, use that money towards a new brush. Believe in yourself and just go for it.” What’s one product you always need to have in your kit? “One product you need to have in your kit is Plouise base. I swear, that product has magic powers. Takes eye looks to the next level. Always have a Morphe M562, it’s the best tiny crease blending brush. You need these in your kit!”
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Tips and tricks from the pro’s Written by Elysia -Jade Song
Lia Sparrow What got you into makeup? “My fiancé bought me a Jeffree Star lipstick and Morphe palette when we first got into a relationship. He could see I had an interest for makeup but I didn’t have the funds or resources, and it slowly built from there.” What made you want to do makeup professionally? “I love the feeling of confidence I am able to give my beautiful clients with their transformations.Be it prom, a night out or your wedding you want to feel special; it’s about finding your niche and then you’ll get far.” What are your favourite high end and drugstore products to use when doing makeup? “Now I will be honest, I now don’t own any drugstore products! Once upon a time? Yes. However, having found better products high-end, I’ve now swapped my entire kit over. “For foundation I would say the NARS Natural Radiance for bridal makeup who are wanting lighter coverage, or, All Day Luminous Weightless for full coverage clients. “For highlight, depending on the client and on the look- I would choose Branding from Violet Voss for subtle soft glow, Anastasia Beverly Hills Moonchild or Kat Von D Metal Crush palette, specifically shade Gamma Ray. “For lipstick, it would have to be Jeffree
Star liquid lipstick, Colourpop liquid lipsticks and liners, NARS liners, ABH liquid lipsticks, Bullet lipsticks, Lime Crime Diamond crushes, and Too Faced toppers (which smell amazing). “A favourite eyeshadow is difficult depending on shade/shimmer, however, Juvias Place must be at the top. Creamy and highly pigmented, amazing longevity and generous sized pans. For setting spray, I go for Urban Decay- I go through bottles regularly!” What is your typical day when doing someone’s makeup for them? “Firstly, I set my kit up, prep and sanitise brushes and work station. On arrival, I greet the client politely, discuss the look they’re hoping to achieve, any sensitivities, allergies, and what preference on coverage. Some ladies don’t like contour and highlight so this is explained and discussed. I explain the skin care routine used and then the makeup application step by step as I complete it whilst asking the client if there are any changes wanting to be made. I give all clients a wide choice of lashes and explain the difference in eye shape to lashes.”
What advice would you give to anyone starting out? “Don’t put too much pressure on yourself to be the best! Everyone starts somewhere and at one point I didn’t own even a single eyeliner. I now run my own business and have just booked 15 brides at a wedding show last week. “Never give up hope if you don’t think you’re the best, it takes practice.” What’s one product you always need to have in your kit? “Good brushes. I have a lot of different sets, however my favourite brushes are my Zoeva phenomenon set. They have been cleaned up to 15 times in a day and still intact and never shed.”
What tips and tricks have you picked up since being a makeup artist? “Always be professional, but also appear like a friend. Whilst doing this job I have made quite a lot of acquaintances and some good friends whilst also being able to keep professional.” MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 43
Palm oil in cosmetics How to avoid it? Written by Vanya Chapkanova
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“If we continue sourcing oil palm from the production systems that currently produce palm oil, it will have devastating impacts on biodiversity and climate.” Pete Smith, Professor at Aberdeen University
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ever heard of palm oil? Well, you’re probably already using it!
It’s not only widely used in food products like bread, pizzas, biscuits, chocolate spreads, but it can also be found in cleaning products, and yes, in cosmetics too. The lipstick you’re wearing on your lips? Probably contains palm oil. That shampoo that makes your hair nice and soft? Yes, you guessed it- it has palm oil. What do we know about palm oil? Palm oil originally comes from the African tree palm, also known as oil palm, however, the biggest crops are planted and farmed in Asia. The industry causes irreversible harm to the environment. Land and forests are cleared for the oil palm plantations, which harms the wildlife and contributes to climate change.
Pete Smith, Professor of Soils & Global Change at Aberdeen University and Science Director of Scotland’s ClimateXChange explains that palm oil peats emit massive quantities of greenhouse gases (particularly carbon dioxide) when drained for the planting. He says: “these emissions can continue for decades until all of the peats are lost. “If we continue sourcing oil palm from the production systems that currently produce palm oil, it will have devastating impacts on biodiversity and climate.” Furthermore, the palm oil industry is associated with human rights violations, including child labour and poor working conditions. Migrant workers are recruited through agent networks that charge them for getting a job, leaving them in debt. Most of them don’t have a
written contract and receive unfair payments. Then, why is palm oil so widely used despite being such a controversial product? The answer lies behind its sustainability and versatility. Palm oil is a very lucrative crop and it’s a profitable biofuel. The oil yields per area “are extremely high which make it a good, cheap source of oils,” Professor Smith adds. Palm oil and its derivatives are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturising, emollient and foaming properties. They can be found under names such as glycerol, fatty acids or fatty alcohols. Wait, what? Palm oil comes under different names? Yes. Even if we are aware of the devastating impact of palm oil and we
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try to avoid using it, we’re still faced with a challenge. In recent years, people have been opting for more eco-friendly products. They read the ingredients list, they can’t find palm oil anywhere, so they think it must be fine. What most of them do not know, however, is that palm oil and its derivatives can be hiding under more than 200 names. Alternative names of palm oil include ammonium laureth sulphate and SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate), which can be found in cleaning and personal care products, glycerine, which is used in cosmetics and soap, as well as vegetable oil, which is contained in bread. Why is it hidden under so many names? Companies confuse customers by only disclosing ingredients like “veg-
etable oil’’, which is likely to contain palm oil, or by using the scientific names, rather than their common names. In some parts of the world, it’s not always a requirement for all the ingredients to be stated on the label. For instance, in Australia, palm oil can be hidden under “vegetable oil”. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) is a system of names for waxes, oils, pigments, chemicals, and other ingredients, based on their scientific names. In the United States and Europe, the INCI system is used. When palm oil is mixed with other ingredients, it’s normally given an INCI name, which makes it hard to recognise without mandatory labelling. INCI names for palm oil also include Elaeis guineensis (palm) kernel oil.
Can we do something to stop the negative environmental impact of palm oil? For palm oil to be sustainable, it needs to be used responsibly without causing deforestation or harming people. Many non-profit organisations aim to set rules and standards for the palm oil market to educate people about the issues behind the problems in the industry. The way to avoid palm oil is to be aware of its different names and to always check the labels and look for the “palm oil-free” logos. Some environmental organisations have created their certificate programmes, which guarantee that the products are free of palm oil and its derivatives.
Bloomtown, UK’s 1st independently certified palm oil-free company, is an example of a brand with a higher purpose. The body and skincare company was founded in 2016 and it offers consumers ethical and cruelty-free alternatives. All of their products are hand-crafted in their workshop in Cornwall. They are 100% Certified Vegan and Cruelty-Free. bloomtown.co.uk 46 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
Is it possible to shop cruelty free?
Written by Katherine McPhillips
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immel London is a wellknown British makeup company that most people would assume is cruelty-free, as they promote on their website. However, as soon as you go on their animal testing page, you see a disclaimer that they do in fact test their products on animals. So, why do they advertise themselves as an ethical company? In the last few years, we have seen the rise of beauty brands claiming to be “cruelty-free” as more customers have become concerned about ethical consumerism.
This means that more people are researching the products they buy and seeing if a company’s practices match their own morals and principles.
Many beauty brands, such as L’Oréeal and MAC, comply with the law so they don’t lose their Chinese customer base. The rise in ethical consumerism can be attributed to the younger generation growing up and being more concerned about issues such as animal rights and the environment. However, reading the label might
not be enough. You would think that a product labelled as “cruelty-free” would mean that no animals have been harmed in the process, but even that isn’t guaranteed” The reality is much different. Even though a product claims it hasn’t been tested on animals, that might not be necessarily true, as the label only refers to the finished product, and t. The ingredients used in a beauty product may have still been tested on animals. In addition, a company may also only test on animals in certain countries. One reason beauty companies might be reluctant to stop animal testing MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 47
can be linked to Chinese laws.
animal rights activist.
In China, cosmetic products need to be tested on animals to be sold in their mainland stores. The country is the second-biggest consumer of beauty products in the world with a £28 billion beauty industry.
She explains how she tries to be cruelty-free:
Many beauty brands, such as L’Oréeal and MAC, comply with the law so they don’t lose their Chinese customer base. In 2020, China announced that it’s trying to make positive steps to reduce animal testing but it remains an ongoing issue. So, is it possible to shop cruelty-free? The answer is yes, but it requires a bit of work.
“As a small business owner, I’ve discovered it’s important to investigate small indie beauty businesses as well as the big companies.
“If you’re unsure about a company, then ask them! Send them an email. Ask them specifically if they sell their prod“If you’re ever ucts in China and if they unsure about have ever used third a business, parties to test products then don’t use on animals.
them. If they seem dodgy then there’s a good chance they probably are.”
Leaping Bunny is an organisation to look up to help you get started. Look for the Leaping Bunny symbol on all beauty products as itthe symbol means that no animals have been harmed at any point during production. Their website has a lot of information about this problem. To give the issue more context, Threads Magazine speaks to Sarah Lou, owner of the salon Loubelle Beauty in Aberdeen and also a
“If you’re ever unsure about a business, then don’t use them. If they seem dodgy then there’s a good chance they probably are.”
The most important step to being cruelty-free is to be critical of advertising. Do your own research and don’t necessarily believe everything a company tells you about their product. The next time you’re on the high street, be aware that for a beauty company their biggest concern is selling you a product. Anything else they claim might simply be marketing.
Brands that are completely cruelty free BareFaced Beauty- Cosmetics with Ethics. Since being founded in 2005, Barefaced Beauty maintains a passionate dedication to producing a wide range of, natural and pure mineral cosmetics. They ensure their products remain safe, free from harmful chemicals, vegan and completely animal friendly. Barry M- Barry M is a British cruelty-free cosmetics company, specialising in on trend make-up and nail products. Based in Mill Hill, London, it was founded by Barry Mero in 1982. E.L.F- E.L.F. Cosmetics is an American cosmetics brand based in Oakland, California. Founded by Joseph Shamah and Scott Vincent Borba in 2004. Items include bath and skincare products, mineral-based makeup, professional tools, eyeliners, lipstick, glosses, blushes, bronzers, brushes, and mascara among others. Lush Cosmetics-Lush produces creams, soaps, shampoos, shower gels, lotions, moisturisers, scrubs, masks and other cosmetics for the face, hair, and body using only vegetarian or vegan recipes. NYX Cosmetics- The company was founded in Los Angeles by Toni Ko in 1999. It was named after Nyx, the Greek goddess of the night. NYX Professional Makeup is certified and acknowledged by Peta as a cruelty-free brand, and they offer a wide range of vegan-friendly products The Body Shop-This brand has confirmed that they don’t test on animals during the production of their products. They also don’t sell their products where animal testing is required blaw.
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Behind the walls of North Korean Communism Written by Elysia-Jade Song
T
he legendary makeup artist Bobbi Brown once said: “Makeup is a way for a woman to look and feel like herself, only prettier and more confident.” In the western world where everything is filled with highlight and cut creases, that saying has never been truer. In the UK, the beauty industry employs over a million people and is worth £17 billion. The average woman spends at least £22,000 on makeup in her lifestime, devoting almost two years of here life to applying it - the equivalent of nine days a year. Women aged 18 to 34 are the biggest portion of consumers in the cosmetics market and are likely to purchase more than ten types of products a year. The 50-plus population is predicted to grow 38 per cent from 2015 to 2035, and women over 45 are predicted to spend £2 annually on cosmetics, skincare and toiletries.
Now in 2020, the worldwide skincare, beauty, and cosmetics industry are worth over £675 billion. But what is beauty like in a country regulated by the government and whose citizen’s lives are shroude with secrecy? North Korea is known for its strict rules and regulations, as well as the little information about what life is like there.
An underground system of people as young as 14 smuggle hugely desired products into the country despite the risk of imprisonment. Cosmetics, skincare, toiletries, and even hairstyles are all strictly chosen by the government, to the point that at the local hairdressers there is a list of styles you are permitted to have.
Anything else is banned and could lead to punishment. But this doesn’t stop North Koreans. Inspired by popular South Korean K-POP dramas, the need for beauty and skincare has reached an all-time high and the risk to get it is even higher. An underground system of people as young as 14 smuggle hugely desired products into the country despite the risk of imprisonment. To contain the need for popular products, the North Korean government has released its line of beauty products exclusively available for its citizens. The products have been reported to be very basic, focusing more on skincare rather than beauty. Je Son Lee, a defector (people who abandons the country) who now lives in South Korea, told the Telegraph: “Most North Koreans traditionally used skin toner and lotion only.” MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 49
“From 2000 North Korea began to produce its own cosmetics In 2014, it was reported that women spend on average 29 line called ‘You and I’ in its Hamhung factory. This cosmetics minutes on their daily beauty routines. line was created to be supplied to When it comes to the rules for high-ranking government offi- “Most North Koreans traditionally used what you are and aren’t allowed cials, as well as to be exported. skin toner and lotion only.” to do… well, there aren’t any. The “They added a line of nutrition cream to skin toner and lobigger and more glamorous, the better- this is most people’s tion - at a time when you could buy other cosmetics for $ 5 opinion when it comes to makeup. -10, these cost $ 250-300.” It isn’t just women who love and appreciate makeup, men are also getting involved. Romanian photographer Mihaela Noroc has visited the country to capture the beauty of North-Korean women, as a part of her project titled The Atlas of Beauty. On her Tumblr blog, Mihaela shares: “Beauty means diversity and I travel the world to discover it. “From Western Europe to African tribes, and from Rio de Janeiro to China, I try to capture in my photos natural and diverse faces. “Maybe in 50 years all women from all around the world will dress and act the same. I hope my project will remain a witness of my era’s cultures and traditions.” In an interview with Buzzfeed, Mihaela said “North Korean women are not familiar with global trends, but this doesn’t mean they are not preoccupied with their look. They have a passion for high heels and usually wear classic outfits, always accompanied by a pin on the chest, representing the country’s leaders.” In western countries, life couldn’t be more different. With popular influencers such as the Kardashians, Jeffree Star and Zoella, beauty surrounds us in every direction.
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The Indian Times reported that on average two million men wear makeup in the UK, and according to YouGov, one in 20 men wears makeup and this could rise to one in four by 2023. John Lewis on Oxford Street, London, has become the first high street department store to open a makeup counter solely for men. Warpaint, founded by David Gray, is now fully-stocked in all John Lewis stores. David launched his business after realising makeup helped with his body dysmorphic. However, for North Korean men wearing any type of beauty product is a punishable offence. Men have a choice of 15 hairstyles to conform by and anything different would be an act of rebellion. The differences between North Korea and the western civilisation are intense, especially when it comes to beauty. We’re free to look, speak and act freely, but for somewhere so secluded like North Korea, the only form of expression comes with a risk so great it could affect three generations of your family.
The North-East drag queens Written by Natasha Franklin
Fannie Sparkles
Ru-Paul once said: “We are all born naked and the rest is just drag.”
F
or the queens of Aberdeen, performing as their true selves isn’t easy.
The colourful and extravagant performances that RuPaul has brought into the mainstream has yet to influence the Aberdeen drag scene. Fannie Sparkles, a drag queen based in Aberdeen, tells Threads Magazine about her experience on the scene: “I first got into drag on Halloween, which I think is the case for most queens. A friend and I decided to dress as the opposite sex this year and to my surprise, I loved it. “That night I went into Cheerz, got speaking to the manager who let me come, and perform there a couple of nights a week.” She has been performing in Aberdeen for six years now. “I have noticed that there are more queens on the scene than there was when I started. I think that this is partially to do with more people being made aware of drag and loving it,” says Fannie.
Currently, Aberdeen only has one prominent gay bar, Cheerz, which is also the home stage for most of the drag queens in Aberdeen. It has been holding drag nights since the early days of its opening. Ross Maxwell, who works full-time as a DJ at Cheerz nightclub, says drag queen nights are the best: “I love hearing that I am DJ-ing the drag queen night. I would say that they are the busiest night we have.” Although Cheerz provides a platform for new and old queens to express themselves, Fannie thinks that Aberdeen still lacks drag show presence: “Cheerz is a great place in Aberdeen to perform, as the people always seem to enjoy the show. Unfortunately, there isn’t much place else that offers drag nights in the city.” Fannie has apologised to her fans on social media several times for having to perform outside of Aberdeen. “I truly wish that Aberdeen had more drag competitions and more
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called HellBent. Victoria Rachel Kay, also known as Lucifer, is a regular performer at Cathouse. She has been taking part in the Hellbent drag nights since the very beginning: “I have had the pleasure of performing at events all across Scotland and the drag scenes vary depending on what city you are in.
drag friendly venues, but travelling outside of Aberdeen allows me to grow my fan base and explore new and exciting places,” she says. In 2019, newcomer to the scene The Shack Nightclub started hosting random drag nights. This opened up another venue for the queens to perform at. However, this is still not a regular event. Another Aberdeen based drag queen, Miss Romy Deepcheeks, has chosen to perform in The Shack: “I started my career performing at Cheerz, but when The Shack opened I took the opportunity to play somewhere else. “The Shack is a good venue but as it’s still pretty new, it’s not very popular. I love performing in Aberdeen but the majority of the shows I play are out with Aberdeen.” The Aberdeen drag scene seems to be a ghost town compared to other cities around Scotland. Glasgow, for example, has different drag queen nights tailored to different types of drag. One nightclub called Cathouse even hosts a monthly gothic drag night 52 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
“I have never had the opportunity to perform in Aberdeen but I have heard that there is not much on offer there. “Aberdeen varies so much from bigger cities such as Glasgow and Edinburgh. The bigger cities have a more vibrant and wellknown drag scene. “Glasgow has multiple clubs and bars, which offer regular drag nights and drag themed events. There are plenty of opportunities for queens to perform in and around Glasgow. I have never had any issues finding venues or events to play at,” Victoria tells Threads Magazine. Despite the lack of drag venues in Aberdeen, other nightclubs and bars such as Underground, Prohibition, Cafe Drummonds and Brewdog have also welcomed drag queens recently. Fannie hopes to see more queens in Aberdeen in the future: “Aberdeen has so much potential as a progressive and accepting city. So I think that Aberdeen bars and clubs should offer more drag events and more events that support the LGBTQ community.”
Miss Romy Deepcheecks
Breaking down barriers one pageant at a time
Written by Natasha Franklin
I
n a world screaming for equality, it’s so easy to feel like your voice will never be heard. Stereotypes constantly tell us what we are and who we should be, but we can’t stay quiet if we want changes. Ms Aberdeen Beauty Queen Rachel Meacock has decided to break down the barriers. She is taking the pageant industry by storm, proving that brains and beauty can work together. Ever since she was crowned in 2019/2020, she has been advocating for women’s right to be who they want to be. Threads speaks to Rachel: “Women are put into boxes very early on smarts or looks. There shouldn’t be a divide between the two. Why would you take a woman be taken less seriously because she looks good?” There is a common belief that smart girls shouldn’t be concerned with their appearance. Breaking this ste-
“There’s still a very strong belief that women in the energy industry don’t know as much as men.” reotype is a crucial message and it’s one that Rachel is passionate about. She is both a beauty queen and a smart successful woman, which proves that the two qualities do not exclude each other. Rachel has a masters degree in Marine Planning for Sustainable Development and a second one in Marine Biology, and currently works as an environmental consultant. However, she feels that she still faces stereotypes and discrimination despite her qualifications:
“I know plenty of men that dedicate huge amounts of their time to personal grooming but are never thought to be any less intelligent or dedicated to their careers because of it. There’s no correlation between brains and beauty. We need to stop thinking that there is. There have been many times that people have been surprised that I chose a technical and scientific career,” she says. “I have heard ‘wow, did you choose that for the travelling?’ or ‘you don’t look like the type to be into that sort of thing’ so many times, as if I wouldn’t choose a scientific career because I’m capable of it,” she adds. Unfortunately, the stereotypes that Rachel is fighting to break are part of the everyday society and are heavily portrayed in the media. In a truly equal society, a girl being both beautiful and smart, or simply neither, shouldn’t be frowned upon.
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When asked about the potential impact that women’s magazines can have on this stereotype, Rachel says she doesn’t read them.
ing talked over when explaining something or being told something I’ve said is incorrect and having it explained back to me in the same terms. I am unfortunately used to it as this tends to happen a lot,” Rachel says. A study conducted by Catalyst Research in partnership with the Oil and Gas Scotland in 2017 revealed that women make up 38 per cent of the oil and gas industry. Only 17 per cent of these women are in senior management roles, and only one per cent of women hold CEO positions. On the first day of her current job, Rachel immediately faced sexism:
“I stopped reading magazines a while ago because it was stressing me out. I found it hard to read these magazines and see that I didn’t fit a mould that the magazine thought was the ‘ideal woman’”. Rachel recognises the danger of social media image: “With the rise of social media sites like Instagram, it can be really hard to feel and be confident of who you are. I definitely still suffer from feeling like I don’t fit the mould but embracing the beauty of that is really important in gaining my inner confidence,” she says. Furthermore, working in a male dominant field also comes with difficulties: “I work in the energy industry and it’s very male-dominated. It’s an older industry as well, and very set in its ways. From small things such as being included in group emails addressed to ‘gents’ even though most of the recipients are women, to be54 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
“I was asked if only women worked in my department (environment) by one man who didn’t acknowledge me in any other way. I’ve also had a man not in my team explain to me in ‘basic terms’ a technical project description he had to follow, and specified he didn’t want to overwhelm me with the details. “The technical project description he was explaining was one that I had written, technical details and all. When I told him that, he started outlining everything wrong with it. There’s still a very strong belief that women in the energy industry don’t know as much as men, even though we have to go through the same process as them to get the jobs,” she says. For decades, pageants have been portrayed as beauty contests, judging their participants on their looks. Recently, they have been focusing less on the beauty of the person and judging the contestants on their personality instead. This is what encouraged Rachel to get involved in her first pageant:
“I had always been curious about pageants since finding out what they were. I loved the idea of them but was not pushed into pursuing them. I did not really see them advertised as an option. The idea that women who participate in pageants aren’t intelligent and are superficial put me off. I thought people would take me less seriously if I got involved in them,” she says. Rachel decided that the best way to address the stereotype about brains and beauty is to tackle it head-on, so she signed up for the Galaxy pageants. “Last year an article about a contestant in the Miss Virginia pageant came up on my Facebook feed and caught my attention - she had chosen to showcase a science experiment as her talent. She went on to win and was crowned Miss America two months ago. I was really inspired by her and started to look into pageants more seriously.” For any young girls or women who are experiencing discrimination or challenges at the hands of these stereotypes, Rachel has this message: “It can be really tough, but we need to be making people aware of these things when they happen. If someone keeps commenting on your appearance, ask them to stop and focus on your work. If someone tries to talk over you, tell them you were speaking. If you see it happening to someone else, step in and help them. Even showing support in private can help. The only way we can ask the world to take women who take care of their appearance seriously is to keep pushing, shouting, and reminding everyone that current attitudes are not good enough.”
Ninety-seven
years of wisdom Written by Katherine McPhillips Threads speaks to one extraordinary Scottish woman about her life and her advice for younger women.
M
uriel Muntch has lived an incredible 97 years. Born in 1922, she has spent most of her life in Aberdeen.During the Second World War, she drove trucks for the military across Britain and Ireland. She worked alongside many different people, including members of the British nobility. “I made friends with men and women well above my station as well as men who were the sons of coal miners. It was a difficult time but I couldn’t have worked with nicer people. Life is a lot easier if you are surrounded by friends,” she says. Muriel continued to make friends with nobility after the war. She used to work at the Gordon Highlanders Museum, whose patron is Prince Charles. She tells us she has a picture with him hanging on her bedroom wall. “I worked in the gift shop and he used to come in quite often,” she says. The first time Muriel met Prince Charles, he asked her about her experience during the war: “I said I had been a lorry driver. ‘When did you start driving?’ He asked me, and
I said: ‘Well don’t tell anyone but I started when I was 12 and a half.’ He leaned forward and whispered ‘Don’t tell anyone but I started when I was nine and a half!’ “Every time he came into the museum, he recognised me. ‘Ah it’s my illegal driver!’ he would say to me. I thought it was wonderful that he remembered me! He must meet hundreds of people.” Muriel says it’s important to be kind and help others: “I’m almost a hundred years old. I’ve had a stroke. I’ve lost most of my sight. However, when I think about the life I’ve lived, I feel proud. I’ve always tried to help other people and always tried to be honest.” After her husband, Andrew, died from leukaemia, Muriel spent over 30 years fundraising to help others with the disease. “I planned bake sales, held coffee mornings and went door-to-door with collection cans. I also sold handbags. I took evening classes to learn how to make clothes and bags. I like to think I was quite good at it,” she says. Muriel raised £89,000 for charity and only stopped when she suffered
from a stroke: “I sometimes wish I had gotten to £100,000 but I’m happy with the amount we were able to raise. I may have organised it but it was the public who were so generous. We were able to help so many people.” When asked about women she admired, Muriel talks about her husband’s doctor: “She was an absolute gem. When Andrew was first diagnosed, he was told he only had six months to live. She managed to give me ten more years with him. It was a wonderful bonus. She became a family friend. If there were more people like her in the world, there’d be no wars.” The main advice Muriel has for young women is to be kind: “Always remember to treat everyone as you would like to be treated. Never think you’re too big or too important to support others. “The best thing I have at my age is my memories. I’m happy with how I’ve treated others throughout my life and I think that’s why I’ve lived a good life. It’s very important to remember: You can never be too kind and you also remember - can never own enough dogs!” MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 55
Can you survive on £1 a day for food? Written by Vanya Chapkanova and Elysia-Jade Song
Vanya’s experience: Food can be expensive. I enjoy cooking quite a lot and I often improvise. I like making impressive meals- like salmon with hollandaise sauce and asparagus, and chocolate soufflé for dessert. But I also enjoy simple meals like soups and sandwiches. Before I attempted the challenge, I had to do my research and plan it out. I decided to only count the money I spent on the quantity of food I used for the portion, instead of the whole package. It’s also important to note that I’m pescatarian, which means that the only meat I eat is fish, and I try to maintain a healthy lifestyle; I train actively, which means I always prioritise protein in my meals. For the sake of the challenge, however, I had to overlook my dietary requirements. You’re probably aware of supermarkets reduction aisle, where it’s possible to find items for as low as 10 pence. Some customers go to the shop at certain times just for the reductions. A bunch of ripe bananas for 10 pence, why not? Risky yoghurt that is about to expire? Put it in the basket. The consumer mind believes that if you don’t 56 THREADS MAGAZINE MARCH 2020
grab that bargain, you’re actually losing money or just missing out. Storming the reduction aisles and possibly having to fight people for reduced food could have been an easy way out for me, but I decided to do it properly and use full-price items instead and avoid cheating. One thing I knew for sure; I had to opt for the unbranded items, like ASDA’s Simple Price range for example. Also, it’s always cheaper to buy things in bulk: the bigger the quantity, the lower the price. It‘s also a good idea to plan meals and cook as much as possible, not only to prevent unhealthy food cravings but also to save money. Breakfast: 13.5 pence in total For breakfast, I went for a bowl of classic porridge, which surprisingly only cost me 13.5 pence. ASDA Smart Price Porridge Oats: 1kg/75 pence, 50g/3.75 pence ASDA Semi Skimmed Milk: 6pt/£1.50, 200ml/8.8 pence Silver Spoon Granulated Sugar: 5kg/£3.20, 64.0p/kg, less than 1 pence/20g ASDA Ground Cinnamon: 34g/59 pence, 17.3p/10g, less than 1pence
Lunch: 28.18 pence in total Despite the fact I’m not the biggest fan of jacket potatoes, for lunch, I had one with beans, truly a British symbol. I knew this meal wouldn’t break my budget, and I was right- it ended up costing me only 28.18 pence. ASDA Grower’s Selection Baking Potatoes: 4pk/60 pence, 15pence/each ASDA Smart Price Baked Beans in Tomato Sauce: 410g/ 22pence, 205g/11pence ASDA Sunflower Oil: 1l/£1.09, 20ml/ 2.18 pence ASDA Table Salt: 750g/27p,36.0p/kg, less than 1 pence Snack: 11.2 pence in total For my snack, I had a small banana, which ended up being only 11.2 pence. ASDA Garden Gang Bananas: 8pk/90 pence , 11.2 pence /each Dinner: Egg fried rice with vegetables; 43.48 pence in total Dinner ended up the most expensive meal of the day, but quite filling- I made egg fried rice with frozen vegetables. ASDA Easy Cook Long Grain White Rice: 1kg/98 pence, 200g/19.6 pence ASDA Frozen for Freshness Mixed Vegetables: 1kg/94 pence, 100g/9.4 pence
ASDA Sunflower Oil 1l/£1.09, 20ml/ 2.18 pence ASDA 12 Medium Free Range Eggs: 12pk/ £1.48, 12.3 pence / each
thanks to some help from the wonderful Martin Lewis and his website moneysavingexpert.com, I was slightly back on track.
Grand total = 96.41 pence
Firstly, I downloaded the KFC app onto my phone and was able to get a free side of my choice. Being a classic 21-yearold, I chose fries (potatoes are a vegetable, right?). I also got a free hot chocolate from Greggs (again all you must do is download the app, and you get a hot drink for free) and a can of tomato soup for 24 pence at Asda.
What I learned from this challenge is that protein is expensive. I couldn’t have been able to afford any cheese, meat or fish. The only source of protein I managed to get is the egg I had with my rice and the can of beans for lunch. Protein is an essential part of a healthy diet, and while this challenge might work for a day, I’d struggle to keep it up.
Elysia’s experience: Living off £1 a day was never going to be easy. But, for some people, this is a necessity and so Vanya and I decided to put ourselves to the challenge and try and see if it’s possible to be relatively healthy on this extremely tight budget. I knew with a bit of research from good old YouTube, the process could be made a lot simpler. Firstly, the rules: any food I’m to eat today is to all fit in my £1 budget. I’m not allowed to ask friends or family for food. Water doesn’t count (I’d prefer not to get dehydrated). When I wake up in the morning, usually my first thought is food. So, I popped down to my local Lidl on the hunt for breakfast. Breakfast: Firstly, I bought a White Split Roll for 19p and a can of baked beans for 22p. This made up a grand total of 41p on breakfast alone and I had59p left for the rest of the day. Beans on toast for breakfast isn’t my usual choice, as I’m normally all for the cereal and smoothie life, but for 41p I couldn’t really complain. I also managed to score off two important macronutrients- carbs and protein. Lunch: Next was lunch and that turned out to be the trickiest. I knew a lot of restaurants gave out free food on your birthday so I thought I could just lie, say it was my birthday and get free food, but this wasn’t the case. Turns out, most restaurants want a form of ID to prove it’s your birthday so that plan would not work out. However,
Dipping chips into tomato soup seemed a bit alien to me, however for a grand total of 24p- I thought I was successful! Total cost for lunch- 24p, which left me with 35 pence. Dinner: Dinner was a bit of a weird one but I knew I wanted to get some vegetables into my daily meal plan. I picked up two carrots for 16 pence from Asda, and a potato for six pence from Lidl. I had the leftover beans with a baked potato and a side of carrots for my dinner! So I only ended up spending 22 pence and was still left with a grand total of 13 pence. Grand Total = 87 pence Final thoughts on the day, well it wasn’t easy. Although you can get vegetables cheap, they’re usually on the smaller side. It’s also difficult if you’re used to eating meat with your meal, you kind of start to miss it. However, I wasn’t hungry and the amount of walking and maths I did was probably the most I’d done all year. So that was a bonus. On a serious note, having to weigh everything and trying to find the smallest piece so it would cost less was very irritating and did make me realise just how privileged we all are. Being able to go to the shop and pick up some shopping for £20 and not think twice is very fortunate. For some people that’s nearly a month worth of shopping. So, although it’s possible to live off £1 a day, it’s very hard. For those who do have to live on this very small budget, there are help points you can go to. C-Find Food Pantry, local food banks and fridges are based all around the country and your local shops may be able to help you locate these. For those who don’t, remember the importance of donating towards charities like these and before you complain about how broke you are, just remember you’re warm, fed, watered and medically cared for by the NHS. MARCH 2020 THREADS MAGAZINE 57
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